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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE
8625
<rt.iVEH-N.UKNT
PHWTINO MTICB
11
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CROOmPL/lN-
PLAN st0m
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Section'qh mM-
FrontElevation.
Perspective Viewl
Interior
End
HEfflr/OK
WITHER BY
& C? LITHO 325*. HIGH HOLBCP.N LONDON, W.C.
End,
PRESENTED WITH PAET
Back Elevation
XII.
Section,
-.ON
LINE
CD.-,
WARWICK HOUSE, SALISBURY SQUARE, LONDON.
E.C.
CO.,
,'IIWM
/W
-'
AMATEUR WORK,
ILLUSTRATED.
EDITED BY THE AUTHOR OF
p^signs
to
<ScaIc,
VOLUME
II.
4
WARD, LOCK, &
<r/^~
Co.,
E.C.
&?#
V
ASTEVB TORKE.
gnomon which
will
be correct
others,
and that
They
actual
than the mechanic. Together with the construction of dials, they have, however,
same latitude will be incorrect for it must vary in its inclination, as or farther from the equator and
;
dial,
it is
necessary to
it is
to
be
formed a favourite relaxation of philosophers in many ages. Thus rules have been deduced for the construction of
plex,
The gnomon,
it
may be
explained,
tion
is
that projec-
many com-
shadow
means,
is
cast.
It
things
of
value
and as means of
of
their
makers.
are the
and simply, "that which That edge indicates." of the gnomon by which the shadow is cast is
literally
Among
reclining
these
The
and declining dials, and the still more complex moon-dial. With these philosophical
little
gnomon
the
toys
to our
it will be purpose to
deal.
In treating of the
science of dialling,
I
what
is
The two most ordiD nary, simple, and useful forms of dial are the Horizontal and South
Vertical.
dial
propose to do
to
are
to
con-
structed,
in
and
do so
FIG.
time
I. HORIZONTAL DIAL FOR THE LATITUDE OF LONDON.
all
it
in
utility,
since
will
mark
ability,
As regards
cient for
it
be
suffi-
me
assumed
above the horizon that is to say, in Its the height of summer, from four o'clock till eight. disadvantage is, that, except under very unusual circumstances, it can only be read from near distances.
the sun
is
fairly
and to be parallel with, the plane of the and with that plane every vertical dial is assumed to be a plane at right angles; whilst that edge of the gnomon by which the shadow is cast, represents, and should be parallel with, the axis of
to represent,
horizon
rather
Considered as an object of taste and decoration, it is the pedestal than the horizontal dial itself
the earth.
in
mind,
it
is
which is capable of much embellishment. Next in importance is the South Vertical Dial. This dial must occupy a wall or other elevation facing due south. Oi all dials it is the most simple, complete,
VOL.
SUN-DIALS
and symmetrical, and
is
AND
be
DIALLING.
in itself best
adapted
to
made
ornamental.
till
It
tells
to fold the paper at A, B, and prick through with a point to the opposite side, for the two sides of
merely
morning
six at night.
The
and
East and West Vertical Dials that is, dials to occupy walls facing due east and west are not difficult of construction but the period during which they mark the time cannot in the longest day exceed
five in
eight hours,
purposes.
are to be obtained by merely continuing the morning seven and eight and the afternoon four and five hour-lines beyond F. The half and quarter hour divisions are to be obtained by a continuation of the process which gives us the hour-lines. Its form Fig. 2 shows the gnomon for this dial.
ing,
is
sufficiently simple,
G
1,
E, in Fig.
1.
Its
angle
the
is
the
same as F
in Fig.
and
is
made
of
to
and
that
is
to say, before
six a.m.
and
an angle
its
^\on
When
will
E,
is
position
be on the meridian
line
falling
and the
A C
falling
complex and difficult. I do not propose to waste space by giving rules for making them. If the diallist has a wall of this kind on which to work, it is simpler and better to make one side of his dial so project, that a cardinal point may be faced. To Set Out a Horizontal Dial. On a sheet of paper
the direction of G.
The
the "
line
stile,"
or that
Ac
will
is
The line A B will be which casts the shadow, and the be the " sub-stile." The angle formed by
these two
draw the
central line
line.
It
A B
dial
(Fig.
i).
This
is
the
twelve o'clock
At the beginning of the above rule I spoke of the meridian as the line in which the sun had, or ought to have, his place at twelve o'clock. This implies an amount of irregularity in the sun of which he is not suspected by the majority of people. Even amongst
the educated the greater
belief that
true
sun-dial
will
is
always
true
time.
This,
cutting
it
at right angles in E.
This
may be
called the
literally
understood,
When
We now
need
to
know our
latitude.
terrestrial
an
atlas, will, if
we
cannot find our exact latitude, give us that of some place sufficiently near to serve for all practical purposes.
Pope bids presumptuous man " Correct old time and by no means commends him to a needless task. The sun is in reality a most indifferent timekeeper, and wants a great deal of correcting.
regulate the sun," he
On
the line c
E,
and
at
any convenient
point,
as F, we set off a line making, with F E, an angle equal to the latitude of the place at which the dial is
to
for
be used.
Thus
it
for
In this particular department of his business he is outdone by clocks of even moderate punctuality. Apart from some minor disturbing influences, the fact that the plane of the ecliptic in which he moves is not parallel to the plane of the equator, necessitates
York 54
(nearly).
continued to the
that
he should
really
come
to
the meridian
at G.
The
triangle F
it
e,
will
gnomon, but
has also to
the
we need
first
namely,
line
its
To do
must
as
1
this,
G,
we
of
let fall
1,
length,
I H as radius, we must describe the quadrant J K. This we have to divide into six equal parts, and through the points thus gained we
from F and
G.
Then with
sun-dial valueless as
a teller of
He
is
The
lines from I till they meet the line Through these points of contact on F G we may now draw lines from E to the circumference of the paper, and we shall have the hour-lines from six a.m.
between clock and sun can be, and has been, accurately calculated, and is given in most almanacks. So that by adding or subtracting the
difference
difference, as the case
may
by the
ascertained,
to twelve at noon.
To
we have
and clocks and watches set right. To Set Out a South Vertical Dial. As in the
last
SUN-DIALS
AND
DIALLING.
examples, which are
.Its
problem the meridian A B, Fig. 3, has first to be drawn, and at any convenient point upon it, as C, a perpendicular of indefinite length must be erected. For setting out this dial and its gnomon we require
not the latitude
itself,
it,
former
triangular,
this
is
parallelogram in shape.
the radius
I
width,
n, of the circle in
-should be
circle.
as in the
that
is,
last
problem, but
degrees as
When
the
the complement to
will
Still,
so
many
for
bring
it
to 90
3
,
the
degrees
of a right angle.
should be placed lengthwise on the six o'clock line 1 J, Fig. 5, with its centre a falling on d.
which
38P, and
set
oft"
that
is
is
above, and
gnomon
we
require.
From a we now
which
will
To Set Out a North Vertical Dial. This may be regarded as the complement of the South Vertical Dial. It tells those hours of daylight only in which
And from D
,
we
set off
may
be,
which
will
We shall construct it most easily is useless. by availing ourselves of the diagram of the South Dial, Fig. 3. Let us take a piece of paper, and so place it that its lower edge may lie on and coincide
the latter
Through E we draw the line F G at right angles Then taking E H equal to E D, and with H as a centre, we describe the quadrant E I. This has to be divided into six equal parts, and through the points thus gained lines have to be drawn from h, cutting the line F G at K, L, M, F, and G. Lines drawn through these last-named points from A to
with the meridian.
the circumference of the paper will give the hourlines
a, Fig. 3.
To
explain
more
from noon
to six
p.m.
the angle B
shows the gnomon for this dial, in which must be equal to the complement of the
show in Fig. 7 the upper part of the South Dial, and meeting with it and joining it at the line through A, the lower edge, y z, of the paper w x Y z, on which the North Dial is to be drawn. First, we pro duce the meridian B A, upon our paper to C. Then we continue the hour-lines five and four through the point A, to the opposite edge of the paper. These give us respectively the evening hours seven and eight. The morning hours four and five may be obtained in like manner by continuing the morning seven and eight
fully, I
;
of
When
it
is
fixed perpendicularly
in Fig. 3,
the paper
is
Dial marks time from four to six a.m., and from six
to eight p.m. only,
and the
towards B
line
;
B a
will fall
down
The gnomon
by proI,
is
of the
dial,
Fig.
but using
South Vertical, but must be placed upside down. Thus the angle B, Fig. 4, must fall on the point A, Fig. 7, and the line B A will lie along the meridian
in the direction of c.
complement.
The method
described above
is,
As much of what
To Set Out an East Vertical Dial. To do this we must first draw the horizontal line a b, Fig. 5, and at B draw the line B c, making the angle a b c equal to the complement of the latitude. Then at D, and with any convenient radius, we have to describe a circle. Touching this circle at I and J, we have to draw two lines, e F, and G H, parallel to c B. Through the centre D, and at right angles to C B, we draw 1 j, which is our six o'clock line. To obtain the
other hour-lines
into
parts,
may
call
dialling as
is
likely to
;
be of general use,
included in
the above
rules
we may now
turn to the
more
When
dial,
it
will
anyone of my readers proposes to make a be well for him to work out the required
problem to the same size as the intended dial. This will be far better than working it on a small scale, and
afterwards enlarging
that unless
it.
On
and
we
which the circle has been cut, into six equal and from the centre D, through the points thus
ascertained,
E
of
F,
we draw a series of lines till they cut By uniting the- corresponding points intersection on these two lines, we get the hourand G H.
4,
5,
it must be remembered worked out with perfect truth and precision throughout, the dial will be worthless as a time-teller. If the worker has not been in the habit of making mechanical or architectural drawings, I
may
The
sides of a
which include as long a portion of the day as this dial will mark. Fig. 6 is the gnomon of this dial. Unlike the
lines
6, 7,
8,
9, 10,
and
be straight lines, and its corners right angles, so that by working with a T-square he will have no difficulty in keeping his lines true.
drawing-board
will
SUN-DIALS
Paper
is
AND
DIALLING.
strained by
damping
it
four or five
it
with chalk or charco d, and going over the design with a hard point; pricking holes and rubbing some
minutes
to
soak and
round
etc.
As
it
dries,
it
shrinks and
Before beginning the tracing one important fact has to be borne in mind. In theory, and consequently
H
FIG.
F]
5.
drum, and thus allows of truer and more satisfactory drawing than when merely pinned down. When the drawing is finished, the paper can be cut from the
board.
gnomon is a mere line. must have so much thickness of material as will enable it to resist any forces which might bend or break it. Due allowance must thereas
In practice, however,
can then be laid upon the surface of the actual and its lines traced off. There are various wellknown ways of doing this such as covering the back
It
fore
be made for
will
this
thickness.
Before
we begin
in
dial,
to trace,
gnomon
SUN-DIALS
two, up the line on which the stand,
AND
DIALLING.
is
gnomon
is
supposed to
which
the pieces on the actual dial just so far apart as to allow space between them for the actual gnomon to be placed.
fix
we must
more easily worked by the amateur than and of which the virtual cost is nothing. A slate gnomon will need cementing into a groove. Beyond the trouble of the diallist, it will be seen
metal,
that the cost
The materials to be used by the diallist will much depend on the locality in which, and the circumstances under which, he works, and his
own
taste
;
of erecting such
scarcely be appreciable.
If the wall
should happen to
yet
may
perhaps
be able
to give
some
useful sug-
gestions.
may
be made by
in-
Against a
building
stucco,
level
if
house or other
ashlar,
brick,
of
or
is
the workmanship vv
GNOMON
the dial.
which
to X
down
a
flat
required
dial.
colours
it
may
Any
stone
With
trowel,
any
hollows or inequalities
may be
a
little
filled
up with
the
cement,
first
'
been damped. The space for the dial may be covered with a couple
of coats of some light
wall having
washed
clean,
the
which will colour, throw up the figures and lines well say a
stone colour.
If
the
paper plan of the dial can be stuck to it with wafers, and a tracing made. The lines and numerals will then need to be cut pretty
deeply into the stone with V-shaped incisions.
Freestone cuts
and thus
>
cutting tools,
find
he
will
work
it
freely,
going over
oil
a carpenter's
or
first
with linseed
wood-carver's
chisel
will
remove
this diffi-
do equally
be
for
little
it.
well,
and
culty.
On
the painted
the
worse
background it will be a simple matter to trace and pencil in the lines and figures of
the dial.
As
ground
not
be
the
painted,
letters
before are
painted
order
The gnomon,
metal,
if
of a
it,
black,
it
will, in
can
have
and be
fixed
by
letting
these into two holes drilled into the wall, and there
running of the colour, be well to pencil them over with japan size. There are two ways in which black paint is
applied to incised letters in stone-work. One is Practice, to " write " them in with the pencil.
patience,
well.
to prevent
cementing them.
the
A
it
gnomon,
that
may
be
to the dial.
If the height and position of the dial are such as to render the danger of breakage small, the
The
and a steady hand, are wanted other is to " slush " them in
to
do
this
is,
that
to
gnomon may
well be
made from a
piece of slate,
matters nothing
how much
colour
when
to the fowls
wife.
to
all
super-
At form a
this
is more hurtand more objectionable to the henstage you should tread down the mould
been ground
off.
If the
cutting has
means
to
letters will with this process come put in by the most skilful " writer."
(
house substantial by preserving the supports from rot (at the same time rendering it portable, and not a
landlord's fixture),
it
To
be co7iti/tited.)
The
skeleton of the
building
may
fitted
taking care to
may be
fusion.
AN AMATEUR WOOD-WORKER.
Fig.
will
the measurements of each length of quartering. Four 8 feet lengths of quartering 3 inches by
HE
article is to
square ground
frame
and
pigeon-loft,
inch by 2 j inch
wood
my own
novel
garden, according to
I
in
150 feet of
possesses
;
certain
The joints
principles
had was
limited, can
used are of the ordinary description, as shown by the sketch in Fig. 3, which represents a corner of the bottom
frame, and the sketch in Fig.
of the upper frame.
4,
that those
who wish
make
five-pound
note
go a long way, might do worse than read the account At the outset, I assert that fowls will not pay I offer. if badly housed, and that warm, well-ventilated, and
easily-cleaned quarters are the best for poultry as well
as for men.
Fig. 5 gives the mode of fastening the cross-pieces, which in the larger of the two divisions, are placed 2 feet
from the ground as joists for the compartment of the house, reserved fowls and egg boxes the floor forming at the same
;
The ground
by
I
at
my
In the smaller
the
strip
taken off
is
The
upon
6 feet
show the dimensions of the house, square and those of the runs, viz., 8 feet
1
will
the ground,
be observed that the ground plan of the house shows that it is divided into two unequal parts, viz., one 4 feet deep by 6 feet wide and the other at the rear 2 feet deep by 6 feet wide. The portion marked a is intended for the breeding house, and the part marked B for a covered-in shady run under the roosting house, for the fowls in wet or hot
square.
It will
;
Hence the dry run underneath the larger compartment goes no further than the wooden partition which
intervenes.
The
the house
is
As a general rule, the yard lettered c is devoted to chickens and pullets, with roosting accommodation in the breeding place, which is fitted with a movable partition and the run D is allotted to
weather.
;
fowls,
sur-
One
of the fowl-keeper
being perfectly dry quarters, the first care should be to level the ground, giving it an incline from back to
front,
so that
all
rain
which are to hang upon the outer supports. Eight rafters, each of 3 feet 6 inches length, will be wanted for the roof, and they are simply nailed in position, the plank placed at the apex acting as a sort of keyboard, and the weight of the roofing material to be hereafter added being sufficient to make all secure. Having proceeded so far, the framework of the house may be erected on its site, and when fitted together, pending further additions, it would be well to temporarily nail an odd strip or two of wood diagonally here and there, to make the whole the better able to resist wind and weather. Also the projecting corners, as drawn in the sketch, may be
may
not be
sawn
building
The
time has
sides
the boarding in of
attention.
After fully deliberating upon the respective merits of felt, corrugated iron, and sheet zinc, I
latter
is
the four
the
most suitable
As cheapest, recommend
and necessitates a wooden roofCorrugated iron, which is at present much recommended by manufacturers of poultry appliances, is expensive and is very hot in the sun, and very cold in time of frost. Moreover, it wears badly, and soon begins to leak where nails are
ing underneath driven
through.
practically 5 J-
No
tongue-and-groove
its
method
to
ensures the air-tightness of the intenoi, and prevents the possibility of the boards themselves
fellow,
Zinc
is
is
one-third
less expensive,
For the roof 63 square feet of No. 10 zinc will be needed. The weight should be 17 pounds to the sheet, measuring 6 feet 8 inches wide. Three such sheets will be sufficient and if one of them be cut in two, they may be overlapped an inch or so, and with a few nails all solderfixed without trouble.
;
from warping and, in addition, the superadded beading lends an ornamental appearance to the exterior, which is very desirable. This match-lining is bought by the "square" of 16 feet, and three such squares, at us. 6d. each, will give ample material.
;
Before directing attention to the manner in which the poultry-house are to be con-
its
principal
distin-
guishing feature
go
YARD
YARD
8.
FIG.
is
Out of the same quantity, three and 3 feet long may be cut. With these a semicircular ridge, to bend over the key-board of the roof, can be formed, and if care has
ing will be avoided.
pieces 12 inches wide,
inside.
Wherever a place
inconvenient to reach,
been taken not to carry the sheets of zinc quite up to the top, a species of ventilator will be the result, the air having free access to the channel, running the whole length of the building, whilst direct draught is obviated, and no rain-water can enter. The roof will have eaves extending 4 inches from the sides of the
house.
Therewhole arrangement of the divers compartments, I lay down the rule that every corner shall be easily accessible, and that the kid-gloved henwife may not be compelled to enter the house. If this be underaccumulate, a state of things fatal to success.
fore, in the
it
will readily
From
the
zontally, the
number of
9,
doors, however,
is
The
zinc that
is
required
may be purchased
for
sive, as
many
6 to
14s. In addition to the ventilation provided by the channel on the crown of the roof, it will be found that
Figs.
fit
modes
(Fig. 6)
The
rear
two sides of the house, but an aperture will be left underneath the eaves. This aperture should not be wholly closed in, the advantage being obvious. A well ventilated but not a draughty roosting house is a necessity. A wooden strip i\ inches wide should, however, be nailed horizontally under
the eaves.
boarded up from top to bottom with the exception of two widths of match-lining 4 feet from the ground, which are battened together to form a This flap, and are hinged as shown in the sketch.
flap
(No.
1)
is
to
pigeon-loft,
situated
building, to be
may be cleansed
left
The
the
north.
2,
side (Fig.
7)
of
poultry-house
faces
The
is
small
hinged to the outer upright, and does not extend quite to the top. By it the pigeon lockers
door, No.
and the whole of the availis to be given to the adult birds, by lifting No. 9 flap and No. 4 at the same time, the dry shed be accommodation will much increased, and the
able space
feathered
inmates
may
are
it is
gained.
Underneath
3,
door No.
hinged to
4 feet
the
and leads
it is
into
breeding-house.
The open
the
space above
dormer
breeding
house
for
fowls,
the nests in which, it will be remembered, are placed on the ground. No. 4 is simply a larger flap than
to
either
the
glass
of
No.
it.
1,
the width of 2
When
it
down,
which slips backwards and forwards in a rabbet, and two in the front which are for lighting purposes only, the glass remaining fixed, with strips of wood at the back and a beading in front.
Preliminary to
fitting the doors,
lengths of 2 inch
angle
same time
8)
fresh air.
and 6, each 4 feet high by 3 feet wide, open up the entire roosting compartment. It is important Below is that this pair should be made to fit well. No. 7 a flap similar to No. 4, but 2 feet longer. It
doors, Nos.
The cost of such pieces is two shillings. All the doors made in the same way, consisting of match-lining nailed to two battens formed of the same material, sawn in half. One inch and a half flat headed wroughtiron nails should be used, as they drive cleanly into the
intended to allow of the earth of the dry run being removed from the front without the inconvenience of
is
wood.
Some
time
will
be spent
in this
part of the
It
is
work, and open-air labour will be saved by nailing together the doors full-large in the workshop, and
afterwards fitting each by sawing
sions
it
to its exact
dimen-
becomes
polluted.
On
house facing south there a small one, 10 inches deep (No. S), which opens on to the egg boxes, and No. 9, a larger one, identical in every respect with No. 4, on the opposite When it is wished that the dry run side. should be at the disposal of yard D exclusively, it will be necessary to keep door No. 6 closed, but when there are no chickens and pullets to occupy yard c,
(Fig. 9) of the
ready.
viz.,
6,)
For the two largest (Nos. 5 and be required, for the strain is great from the side. All the other flaps and doors have the 10 inch
doors.
the
size.
It is
FIG.
may be
The
in
the
centre of
doors
which
form
FASTENING CROSSPIECES.
DIAGRAM FIG. 3. SHOWING COKNER OF BOTTOM FRAME, AND MODE OF JOINING THE
PARTS.
A COMBINED POULTRY
integral parts of the divisions of the
to
H
AND PIGEON-HOUSE.
house necessary
in fitting will
structed,
be
amply
repaid.
The
flaps to the
and less care may be expended upon them. Should the doors warp in the fixing, no great anxiety need be felt, for when they have been hung a short while they will be sure to regain
essential,
They should
all
all white places wherever they may beading and planking were treated simultaneously, it would be difficult to discover whether the former had been properly done. Tinned priming, that is priming sold in tin cans, is not so economical as that bought and mixed at the oil shop. Of the latter eight pounds will do, where twelve of the former are wanted. For the second coat about the
planks, filling in
If
be noticed.
be secured with wooden buttons. The window and other apertuies should be cut when the matchlining is fixed, a key-saw being
first
same proportion
two coats should
the
FIG. TO
of
lead
colour
wood
effectually.
The
third
used.
They
will
not lessen
if
ARRANGEMENT Of
coat
cut in
may
if it
be according
to fancy,
but
consist of green or of
any
it
H1
<>
7
1
S1
i^-^==J
=^
"^a7
FIG. 7.
T
1
FIG. 6.
REAR
OF HOUSE.
FIG.
8.
FRONT
OF HOUSE.
now
j^=
receive
its
first
coat of paint.
}^^=r.
i
Three coats are the rule, and if the last is to be green, the second Priming should be lead colour. of the ordinary description may be
used for the
first.
10
tj
The
oil
soaks
T I
1
T
T
1
,
go much further and weigh than the priming, it will ornamental purpose an serve simply, and therefore, if economy be an object, it may from a utilitarian point be dispensed with. But, as will have been noticed, one of the recommendations of the house now in progress of erection is that, by
lighter
layer
of lead.
The
thinner
the
reason of
its
to material as well as to
manner of
construction, it is well suited to a FIG. 9. RIGHT SIDE OF HOUSE. priming is put on the better, and small garden Whose extreme limits the quicker the more economical. are within full view of the drawing-room and other If the prepared priming, sold in tins at 6d. per pound, windows. In short, the combined pigeon and poultrybe used, it is the more necessary to paint swiftly, as it should be of no disgrace to its surroundings, house twelve pounds About dries in almost immediately.
first
coat.
The main
is
thing to be observed
paint this
is
and therefore the choice of the third coat of paint merits some consideration. On reference to Fig. 4, showing the left side of the
house,
it
carefully,
will
is
a small opening, 9
10
side,
to
be
it
is
closed with a
same
sliding panel.
When
and
stop.
to
above
it
measurements are a
little
out,
fillet
of
So
windows
a screw should be
on the side to which each pane is slipped. To complete the front of the house two planks, cut to an ornamental pattern, should be nailed under the eaves, but not close up to the match-lining, the intention being to allow a current of air to ascend under them, finding its way to the channel on the ridge of the roof. These boards may be mortised into a spike which gives a finish to the whole, and nailed at their further extremities to the projecting strip of wood running under the zinc plates at each side of the house. On the right side of the building it will be noticed These should that three pigeon-holes are provided. be cut in a permanent partition, their measurement being 6 inches by 4 inches. The partition should be nailed to the inner side of the uprights and two shelves, one under each opening, added to serve as an alighting board, which ought not to measure less than
6 inches
in width.
wood nailed to the joists will make everything easy. As regards the flooring, all that requires to be done is that broad planks be sawn to the exact length, and The boarding fitted to extend from back to front. need not be of more than J inch stuff, but the broader
the planks the better, for they will be easier to
remove
when
is
it is
when
that purpose
be of a slight nature, however, a plank strong enough to bear a man's weight should be made fast in the centre of the fowl-house, for it will be found convenient to stand
accomplished.
If the flooring
upon
it,
the roof.
The
is
best
planed wood, as
is
made of The
advantage of having it loose is obvious, for by lifting one or two of the planks the whole of the loft may be easily reached by a person entering the breeding
pl a ce
To
is
The
exterior
now
be
fitted
the nests
The former
remains to be dealt with. As a preliminary, any spare mortar, sand, and lime may be thrown into the dry
consist
of
strip
where it will tread down and form an excellent Although perhaps it would be wisest to leave floor.
run,
4 inches high, which forms the front to a set of four egg-boxes, each 12 inches wide, and without bottom,
still,
here
it
should
be said, that as a means of protection against the burrowing of rats, whilst retaining the advantages of
the moisture of the natural
soil,
a length of 18 inch
galvanized wire-work,
on the mortar
breeding compartment. A little be sufficient to keep it in position. In the whole of the interior there is but one perfloor of the
will
which are simply made by nailing at every foot an upright piece of board 11 inches wide and 18 inches high. Stability may be given to them by a thin length of wood, nailed along the top. As a back to this row, of nests, a piece of wood 4 inches high should be dropped into grooves attached to the uprights of the building on the right and left of flap No. 8, against which the skeleton boxes should be set so that a
person by
lifting the flap
may
manent
partition
is
that
is,
there
is
single
part
re-
only which
movable at pleasure. The exception is the boarding which divides the breeding compartment and pigeonloft above it, from the dry shed and roosting-house. If the first pair of rafters from the back have been
placed to correspond with the uprights 2 feet from the rear, as shown in Fig. 2, the match-lining, nailed vertically, may be secured to them at the top, and to the
boxes without entering the house. The reason why the back of the nests should be movable, is that they may be cleaned without inconvenience. The arrangement of the nests and perches is shown by Fig. 10.
is
the movable back running in grooves at each end, and C the hinged flap on the outside of the building. D has
It is
brackets,
uppermost joist at the bottom, taking care to nail the planks on the side to allow of the top of the joist to remain free to support the flooring of the pigeon-loft. No difficulty will be met with if the match-lining be sawn into two lengths, the shorter to reach from the
roof to the
first
pose
first
them
second, as a tray to catch the droppiHgs of the fowls roosting upon the perch E, which is slipped into sockets 4 inches above
it.
This plan
to
is
highly desirable,
conducing at
it
does
the
rapid
and
effectual
VIOLIN-MAKING.- AS IT WAS,
cleansing of the house daily.
AND
IS.
ii
The
perch, by-the-bye,
stuff.
The
should be four inches in circumference, a branch with the bark on being the best. The shelf will also serve to
protect the fowls from an
arise
by \\ inches. The wire below is 1 inch mesh nailed to a plank 1 foot high. For the remaining portion of the runs ii inch
mesh
netting
is
used,
from deficiencies
fittings
is left
The
door
is
at
On
give a statement of the actual cost of materials required for the combined pigeon and poultry house,
exclusive of the yards
and divided in the centre so as to form a pair of nests, which are reached by an alighting board. A similar contrivance is on the floor below it, and other lockers
Quartering
s.
Id.
18
2
may be
to be
put elsewhere
is
if
required.
Odd
planking
(beading)
6
6
remembered
wisest provision of no
stated should
and
3
2
better to under-
Wood
Hinges
Zinc for Roofing
6
14
1
.
accommodate with comfort half a dozen fancy pigeons and eight or nine adult fowls, besides chickens. In regard to the latter, when a hen becomes broody her proper place is in the compartment reached by door Xo. 3, where a nest may be made up for her with three bricks and some moist earth. So soon as
the chicks are hatched they maybe allowed the run of the compartment, and as they grow older may be given the use of yard C, from which the grown fowls are excluded by closing flap No. 9. Should great pressure
Match-lining
Glass
Paint
14
1
6 9
7
....
.
14
3
S
==*<=
be felt in respect to accommodation for young chickens, an excellent run sheltered from the weather is furnished by the dry shed under the roosting-house, the adult fowls being temporarily deprived of it by dropping flaps Nos. 4 and 9. Sunshine and air, combined with perfect safety from cats and vermin, may be
afforded
VIOLIN-MAKING
AS IT WAS, AND
IS.
By ED. SESON-ALLEN.
ITS
VARIEGATORS
by wiring
in with
inch
mesh
netting the
ing be secured to
above
sters.
it,
the side
Fowls entering the house from the yards do so by doorway already described, which they reach
If a staple
be driven through the plank and the flap No. 4, a peg will suffice to keep both in positions by withdrawing the peg the flap falls and the dry shed is closed in, whilst the ladder remains in its proper place. The interior of the house with all the fittings should be brushed with a wash, the basis of which is carbolic powder {price 3d. per pound), and which will impart a pink tone, creating a pretty as well as whole;
what may be called the most scientific and useful innovation which has ever assailed the established form of the violin. This is Savarfs Trapezoid Violin, or Box Fiddle, which was one of the most celebrated and satisfactory experiments ever tried on the construction of the instrument. He was led to its production by a series of carefully conducted experiments, which went to prove (1.) That a plane surface vibrates much more readily than an arched or curved one. (2.) That consequently there are points on the surface of a violin of the ordinary form where the vibrations are reduced to a minimum, or cease altogether. (3.) That the bouts, corner blocks, and //holes are the principal causes and localities of this
reduced vibration.
He
some
effect.
is
shown
unthe
shown
in
may
vary.
Suffice
it
to
say, that
12
extra height, which
VIOLIN-MAKING: AS IT WAS,
it
AND
IS.
to give to
the
The cause
of
pared,
shape was not founded particularly on any scientific reason, but that it being necessary to have a certain contained mass of air, this shape was best adapted to give the instrument a narrowness at the bridge which would allow the play of the bow and yet have the same interior capacity as if the sides were parallel but broader. Arguing that the soundholes of an ordinary violin are cut/-shaped only, so as
to counteract the resistance the curved surface offers
to the vibrations, this necessity
same way as the Chanot violin had been comand with the same result, viz., that the new instrument was pronounced equal, if not superior to It is interesting to the work of the Italian master. note how these councils of enthusiastic Frenchmen
were ready, apparently on all occasions, to rush into the arms of any innovator and reward him in terms of the most fulsome eulogy, but that the musical public on each occasion refused to indorse their opinion, and adopt the innovations. At the same time the construction of Savart's " Box Fiddle," as it has contemptuously been called, was based on sound sense and scientific principle and there is no doubt that a violin properly constructed on the Savart model, though falling far short of a first rate fiddle of the ordinary kind, would be very much superior to the
;
Savart
fiddle,
he cut
71,
shown
in Figs. 68
and
viz.,
and their exact position in the belly and distance from each other he determined as shown in Fig. 71, by a series
as possible
wood
common
Mirecourt
wholesale
production,
easier for an
besides
of practical experiences.
placed
The bar he down the central joint of the fiddle byan erroneous course of reasoning, thinking by this means to equalise
influence over the entire surface,
Fig- 74-
amateur to construct. This will be acknowledged readily enough by any one who will take the trouble to combeing very
pare the diagrams that are supplied of Savart's Trapezoid Violin with
those of the ordinary form of the
75-
much
its
He
some
cases, a bar,
violin
in pre-
as
shown
at
vious chapters.
belly
below the bridge, which he found had the same effect as the other form (shown in Figs. 71 and
a
point
72),
diffi-
cult
and
gave
fix
to suit the
r
THELOFFEL-GEIGE OR SPOON FIDDLE.
Fig. 71.
known more easy to execute rectangular work than it is to manage rounded or curved work, and this pertains in an equal
well that in carpentry
it
is
far
instrument.
He
to
his
sides
The
fiddle,
ap-
(which were
made
of the
same wood
~,i\x
in.,
our
by no means
of the violin
75.
-Side View.
so attractive as
proper.
that
and gain
linings.
with
this
thickness,
it
set
will
For the
give the
in
an ordinary
but
exact measurement* of
its
more to the right of the instrument. The tail-piece was suppressed on the same principle as in the Chanot
fiddle of 1819 (Fig. 67), but as
full
followsf
English
inches
he
justly
remarks the
Length of the body
(Figs. 71
and lignes.
and 73)
.
13'
3-
li
131
being very detrimental to the instrument, he carried them over a nut set at the bottom of the instrument
(B
in Figs. 68, 71,
3A
Si
if If
71)...
-
8- 4 8
1
Height of bridge (F
in Fig. 70)
in Fig. 71)
71)... 70)...
Breadth of bridge (f F
i"6
2'
shown
at
2|
3
1
The
merits of the
new
fiddle
belly at edges
in
o'
= =
$
T
by a council of the Academie des Sciences, composed of MM. Biot, Charles, Hany, and Prony, to whom were added MM. Birton, Catel, Le Seur, and Cherubini, members of the Academie des Arts. The new fiddle was tested with another, a Cremona masterpiece by M. Lefebure, the eminent violinist, in exactly
The measurements
t For
see
F.
full
Savart's
et
la
Construction
ments a cordes
(Paris) 1S19.
VIOLIN-MAKING: AS IT WAS,
French
ins.
-
AND
IS.
i3
violin line.
It is called
in centre in centre
o"
z\ 2J
1
O"
' r 5i o'
1
1
o" S
If
ILlV
3
Til"
1
O" 2 o' 3
II
in Fig. 71)
more a joke among musicians than anything else. It is formed of one solid piece of wood like a soup-ladle, and is represented in front view in Fig. The bowl is scooped 74, and in side view in Fig. 75. out, and decked, as it were, with a thin deal soundboard, pierced with two small oval sound-holes. The head is of a curious hook shape, and can boast of the same advantages that were claimed for the reversed scroll of M. Chanot which was noticed in the
and
is
'
M
1
b.
*>
-1
as
-*
FIG. 63. FRONT VIEW or plan. FIG. 69. SIDE FIG. 71. PLAN SHOWING CONSTRUCTION OF INTERIOR.
LONGITUDINAL
;
fig. 70.
SECTION.
A A,
End
;
I,
Lower Block
End
broad
side
2'
last paper.
An
is
mounted on
in Fig. 71)
to top of bridge 71)
2j
1
From nut
12' 2
o'
1
has no
tail-piece,
Depth of bass bar at ends (a A in Fig. Depth of bass bar in'centre (a in Fig.
to loops of
string,
70)
o 6
neath the
fiddle,
made
bowl.
of
which
is
Its
tone
These, therefore, are the principal alterations which have been attempted, a careful study of which only determines
Trias
anliquas.
'-
have received
in
from Hanover a
most interesting
curiosity
the
might be expected. Another interesting vagary is the Folding or Traveller's Violin. The neck of this instrument, the body of which is long and narrow, comes off with the fingerboard, as do also the bridge, tail-piece, and tail-pin, al of which, with a folding bow, fit into a small rectan-
u
gular case.
tion
the
go into a portmanteau, and is amusing and handy on occasions when one does not want the fuss of carrying a full-grown fiddle
same
time,
will
of Halle, who, at the beginning of the century, imagining that the loss of the resinous particles from
the
wood
of violins
by reason of
their
age (which
is
Amongst
omitted
to
violins
made
of eccentric
materials,
violins in a mixture
M. mention a papier madid violin. Georges Chanot possesses one of these among the It is painted curiosities which characterise his shop. green and gold, and is as hideous and ghastly as anything can be which bears any resemblance to a
fiddle.
an
mediable damage.
wood, which
it is
most im-
Patent Repairs
splendid fiddles in people are more careful of trusting valuable instruments to the first quack who has some patent operation
which
ing to his
in
own
account, tenfold.
One, Maupertius,
be classed with have here enumerated, and on all of which comment is needless. But they serve as warnings to the owners of valuable instruments, not to entrust their fiddles to the hands of musical quacks. If you think your violin wants anything doing to it, go to one of the heads of the
I
matters, all of which operations the rest of the " patent repairs ''
may
an article, " Sur la Forme des Instruments de Musique," in the " Memoirs de lAcademie Royale des Sciences," 1724, p. 215, declared that the tone of a
never do anything superfluous to your fiddle for the sake of the job and his love of his art will be sub;
and having it pieced together again by a good workman. He argues thus, that the violin ought to be made up of fibres of different lengths, so as to have some of a size to suit every note on the compass of a fiddle. An idea complimentary to the musical powers of glue,
fiddle is to
be improved by breaking
it
to pieces
I cannot do better than conclude this chapter with a highly epigrammatic remark made by Mr. J. Pearce in his
" Violins and Violin Makers," " Beware of ignorance which assumes the mask of knowledge, and of designing roguery which apes the appearance of inno-
cence."
Other fiddle-dealers and owners are always tinkering up their instruments by gluing in slabs of wood here, gouging out layers there, shortening or lengthening the bass bar, and shifting the bridge
(To be continued.)
till
the
violin,
as
it
were,
Ill,
a sullen or confused
lated
very indignation at such treatment, relapses into silence, until properly regu-
ORNAMENT AND
by an
artist of
the trade.
It
is,
as has been
destroy,
DESIGN, STYLES,
already
pointed
out,
almost
fatal
to
by
LTHOUGH
absolutely
still
it
thinning the
wood
not
necessary
to
the
amateur,
strength upon.
It is
is
fiddle,
an idea of the
with
new wood
it
As
the space at
my
disposal
is
too small to
must be very seriously impaired by a stratum of glue and a slab of new wood, whose fibres do not coincide
with the rest of the instrument.
sighted and destructive repair
is
allow
The acme
of short-
each characteristic of every style, I shall therefore content myself with making a few remarks on ornament and design, and then glance
to fully explain
me
reached in a case which occurred, accordingto Mr. Davidson,at thebeginning of this century. He mentions the case of a Scotch amateur, who being possessed of a splendid Stradivari
violin of the large pattern,
ornament.
Ornamental
styles
may be
had
it
cut
down
smaller,
mirabile diet it, at the suggestion of the celebrated J The fiddle subsequently sold for ,56. P. Salomon.
Letters patent were granted to
J.
P. Grosjean, in 1837
(No. 7450) for coating the surfaces of violins with glue and powdered glass, to improve their tone, a
the pure and and conventional and arbitrary or natural and fanciful. There are also two provinces of ornament the flat and the round; in the former we have a contrast of light and dark, in the latter a contrast of light and shade. It is with the latter that we have to deal in wood-carving and the amateur should always
;
WOOD-CARVING FOR AMATEURS.
bear in mind that the two great principles he has to study most particularly are shape and contrast. In most cases where imitations from nature, such
as flowers or
fruit,
form constitutes the conventional arrangement. Every design is composed of two parts plan and
scroll
details
is
the
plan, the
decorations
of
the
bracket
are
the
and these
details
may
either
cover the entire surface of the bracket, or only portions of it. Decorations which uniformly cover the
entire surface of
and
to,
in every case ornament is essentially the accessory and not the substitute of, the useful. As the motive of ornament is to render the object ornamented agreeable to the mind and eye, the details of
same
or diagonal order.
flat
surfaces,
effect
when arranged
appears that the
;
diagonally.
beauty of
effect.
Let
me
The
geometrical pattern.
ciple of
prin-
by so doing, he increases the labour of production, and at the same time spoils the effect of
details, as,
ornament is repetition take a moulding, for instance, where we have simply a measured succession in series of some one detail.
Symmetry
coration that
is
it
in de-
must never be disregarded. In art, as in nature, it is the group that is the ornament, and not the individual and this law must be observed by
;
the designer.
In clusters, festoons,
etc.,
of fruit or
may be
itself
arranged at random,
must be of symmetrical
This law of symmetry is so important that it has been stated that there is no form, or combination of fcrms whatever, that when symmetrically contrasted and repeated, cannot be made subservient to beauty in fact, the whole grammar of ornament consists simply of contrast, repetition, and series. I would again impress upon the amateur designer the necessity of scrupulously avoiding an overloading of detail he should first of all consider utility, making detail merely a secondary consideration, endeavouring at the same time so to group the details as to provide against injury by the skilful adjustment of the relieved portions
;
FIG.
18.
DIAPER
SURFACES.
will
now proceed
styles into
which ornament
may
be broadly divided,
Taste in design, I need hardly say, is of paramount importance and no amount of mere mechanical skill can counterbalance the effect of a badly-conceived design. Strange as it may at first sight appear, it is
;
and Modern.
tian, the
The
styles
Roman. The Mediaeval comprise the Byzantine, the Saracenic, and the
Greek, and the
Modern
Style
is
It
is
another
name
for character,
and frequently
is
simply merely
true that in all the great styles, the details are largely
derived from nature, but for the most part conventionally treated. A plant or natural object is said to
To commence
we
are
find that
still
many
be conventionally treated when the natural order of its growth or development is disregarded. The distinction between the natural and the conventional or ornamental treatment of an object should be clearly understood. In Fig. 17 we have an ivy leaf conventionally treated, and it will be seen that although the scroll is composed of strictly natural parts, still as no plant would grow in an exact spiral direction, the
as the fret, wave-scroll, spiral, and most symbolic features of this style are the winged globe, the lotus and papyrus, and the asp. Many of the forms, and indeed the very details of the Greek style, are still popular, as they so welliepresent the great principles of ornament, series, and contrast contrast of masses and contrast of lines. Some of
zigzag; but the
popular
st_\le
i6
known
tongue (Fig.
19),
the
astragal,
and the
we
was the period of gorgeous and elaborate diaper decorations, the habit of ornamenting the entire surfaces of
their apartments affording a
and we have a
art.
The
now,
too, that
we
and
this style,
wide field for the display Middle Age style was perhaps more than all others,
third
to the
painted, ornaments as
in the
Doric period.
style
is
The Roman
There
is
h ardly a
Gothic
Greek
in
is its
fact,
The symbolic
uni.
.
Byzantine and Saraform magnificence. As GREEK ECHINUS AND ASTRAGAL. . fig. 19 cenic styles are conan example of this tinued in the Gothic, but are chiefly distinguished even in details compare the egg and tongue of this period. Fig. 20, with Fig. 19. The scroll and acanthus from these styles by the universal absence of the are also peculiarly Roman, and continually occur in dome. In Gothic ornament the geometrical and the ornament of this period in fact, every form which pointed elements are elaborated as much as possible, will admit of it is habitually enriched with an acanthus these elements being also frequently combined with
clothing or foliations.
said
which, in
im$m$jmm$mbgmg)
This
great
one of the
Roman.
of
The
gro-
being so paramount
introduction
that
some
of
of the va-
rieties
Gothic are
We
the
FIG.
17.
EXAMPLE
in
which we
find
symbols play
in
an
We have in this style an extensive application of foliage ; and the trefoil, or as it is frequently called the Early English leaf, plays an
important part, and is a characteristic featuie of the ornament. Gothic ornaments, independent of tracery,
are
In Byzantine
art, too,
it
will
be found that
all
imita-
nearly
exclusively
leaves,
fiuit,
or
flowers-
human
figure, are
conventionally treated.
In the decorations of
this
the details.
period
it
may
be
trefoil
We now come to the Modern styles commencing with the Renaissance, the principal
FIG. 20.
and
quatrefoil
become
ROMAN
ECHINI'S
AND ASTRAGAL
scroll
tracery
foliage.
and
delicate
work of conventional
is
The
in
Gothic
art.
The
the
Saracenic
are soon
men and
we
find vegetable
and animal forms rigidly excluded, and curves, angles, and inter-lacings go to form the major part of the
designs, inscriptions being frequently introduced. This
in fact is rather
forming part of this mixture. The Renaissance a combination of various styles than
style.
17
2. Superiority of Porcelain to Earthen-ware. For our purpose clay goods may be divided broadly into two
classes
the latter,
of earthenware
may
but the
is
of a superior basis, of a
to
more
delicate texture,
produce,
and
We
now
come
to
Modem
styles,
the Louis
Ouatorze.
shade were
most
striking characteristics,
symmetry
in the parts
longer essential
this period
consequently, in
That is, of course, at the time of production, and with due regard to the amount of work entailed in forming the object into which it is to be made. The specimens which
varies within comparatively small limits.
we
find
the
The
in the constant
and
and
shell, the
other
We
find also
broad acanthus
fiat
foliations
any of the designs of this period in fact, as sudden and varied contrasts of light and shade are so essential an element of this style, all the ornamental details are either concave or convex. I have endeavoured in these brief remarks on the various styles to give the amateur some slight idea of the most characteristic features of each, by which he may distinguish the one from the other. In my next article I intend giving designs and instructions for their execution the designs will necessarily be simple, the primary object being to accustom the carver to the use, and to give him perfect command of his tools.
;
such extraordinary prices among collectors have an enhanced or a spurious value from being ancient or typical, or from the mere determination of a person to become the purchaser. My remarks upon decoration are made primarily with reference to porcelain not simply because it is the finer and intrinsically more valuable material, but also, and principally, because upon it work more excellent in appearance can be produced. At the same time it will be understood that they apply also to earthenware. 3. Underglaze and Overglaze Painting compared. Ceramic painting is of two kinds, underglaze, and overglaze. The former is executed on the bisque, by which name the ware is known when it has received
realize
;
its
name
implies,
latter
is,
as
that glassy
these
its
Accordingly,
is
as
well
at
the
admit
when
is
{To
be continued).
and when
effect,
strictly
finer,
achieving
its
true
it
aim,
un-
doubtedly the
comparing as
Such a work as
paintings
his
this
is
On
made
DE VEGA.
with,
finger to
;
but an
CHAPTER
Comparison of the Advantages of OVERGLAZE AND OF UNDERGLAZE PAINTING PORCELAIN and its Glazes as affecting Painting Scope of the Amateur's Work.
I.
its
completeit is
An
less
overglaze
would,
i|NTIQUITY
is
of Pottery Ornamentation.
of articles
The decoration
made
of clay
one of the evidences of that longing for ornament of some kind or other, which seems to be inherent in man, and we accordingly find that the art of producing on clayware, in such a manner that the result should be permanent, devices of a colour different from that of the ware, is prehistoric; the earliest records on this point being in fact induced by the circumstance that excellence had already been achieved in the art.
former case the colours become united to the body itself, their beauty being developed by the overlying
glaze
;
in the latter,
In
does not, as a
rule,
4 Advantages of Overglaze Painti?ig. The foregoing concessions have been made in order that it may not be supposed it is desired to unduly enhance subsequently the value of overglaze work but, having been
;
i8
to the superior claims of such work to the attention of the average amateur. These are numerous and important.
(a.)
or described.
appreciative,
the smaller
limited
by
In order
and possessed of ordinary powers of perception, will meet with a full and sufficient guide to enable him to embody his ideas in colour.
I
may
it
is
propose
to
should be raised to a red heat, so that the whole of the oil, which would of course refuse to combine with
may be dissihowever, only a few of the pigments obtained from the same sources which supply those for overglaze work, that can, after passing through such an
the glaze, which has a watery medium,
pated.
and the mode in which the latter appearance of the painting the scope of the amateur's work the apparatus and appliances necessary or profitable to employ and the vehicles which
lain
and
its
glazes,
affect the
There
are,
should be used in laying the pigments. A work will then be undertaken in monochrome, or one colour
itself or
adap-
some changing in tone or tint, others disappearing altogether. Hence overglaze work has the great advantage of a much wider selection of colours, and consequently a more extended range of subject.
be reviewed.
detailed
Not only
to say
latter,
gorgeous hues,
and ordinarily pi ocurable, of mutual behaviour in mixtures, and of the manner in which composite tints generally may best be obtained, and with this information in hand work in colours will be commenced.
or those in regular use,
their
6.
An
under-
Porcelain
and its
Glazes.
discrimination
tions,
it
may be
done over the glaze; and hence, frequently, with a view to perfect the effect sought to be attained by work on the bisque, the assistance of enamel colou r on the glaze is called in. (f.) Overglaze work does not make such demands upon the judgment of the painter as does underglaze. In the case of the latter, the hue of the pigment as laid on is very often entirely different from that developed
in the glazing
laid
is,
;
is
do not propose
to give
a history of pottery, or a detailed description of the processes employed in the production of that beautiful
as
a rule, the
underglaze work, a difficulty to determine the exact depth of colour employed, which when at all existent
in overglaze,
is
And,
ware now so easily and cheaply obtainable. Such a course would serve no useful purpose. A section on the subject would be highly interesting, but the greater portion of the information it would afford would be of no practical avail, and complete descriptions are readily attainable in public libraries, and are more fittingly found in the pages of an encyclopaedia, or a Dictionary of Art or Manufactures than in a paper of such a series as this, the main object of which is the satisfaction of the wants of the practical amateur
painter.
is
generally, overglaze
work
is
less
troublesome than
It is,
underglaze.
(d.) The expense of glazing is considerably greater than that of simply firing, which is all that is necessary to fix the painting in overglaze work. Hence it is abundantly evident that for the amateur whose desire is presumably to produce, with a view to decoration, an effect brilliant as well as artistic, paint-
mediocrity in his
ing in overglaze or enamel colours offers at once the wider and cheaper, and, practically, equally enduring
knowledge it is very probable that he will fail however well he may have worked to realize his ideal, seeing that similar work executed with equal care upon two glazes of different descriptions may produce results so entirely different, that in one case the liveliest satisfaction may be exhave
just referred, as without this
means of
5.
Prospectus.
The
be
Porcelain,
then,
is
of
three
kinds,
technically
found to afford, so far as is possible in writing, a complete course of instruction in all that essentially
It will be readily understood that written directions, considered alone, sometimes fail taking for example the subject of
Hard, English, and Soft, the last being also called tender, or spurious, and the first also genuine. The body of hard porcelain is (a.) Hard Porcelain. essentially composed of two substances, both of which
as
known
occur naturally
I.
Kaolin,
or as
it
is
called
in
OVERGLAZE PAINTING ON PORCELAIN.
England, China
clay,
!9
to give it a place the other two kinds.
and Cornwall the English variety resembling the Chinese and Japanese rather than the Continental; 2. China stone, a quartzose felspar, here called Cornish stone. These two substances occur in the formation called " graphic granite," but whether they have resulted from the
in in De-j-on
Bayonne, and
England
decomposition of the granite, a further stage having been reached in the case of the former than in that of the latter, or whether they are constituents of imperfectly formed granite, the latter being more developed than the former,
origin
is,
is not yet determined. Their however, noticeable as they are causative of the hardness of the ware. By whatever means brought
Three descriptions are made one for ordinary table one more delicate for dessert and the better teaservices, and the third, somewhat softer, for objets d'art. The innovation which gave character to this ware was the work of Josiah Spode, who succeeded his father in 1797, and since it was generally accepted by the English makers, similar ware has been regularly made in our factories. There are some forty makers of acknowledged repute, but Messrs. Copeland (Stoke), Minton (Stoke), Davenport (Longport), Rose (Coalport), Brown-Westhead (Caulden Place), and the Royal Worcester and Crown Derby Companies, deserve special mention for the fineness and purity of
use,
their wares.
(7.)
about,
is
that the
stone con-
Glazes,
(a)
is
Hard.
great variety.
which
clay
ter,
is
and
is
accordingly fusible, or
and becomes of a
which is ground felspar or Cornish stone, with sometimes an addition of gypsum. These ma-
composed
solely of
a very high
glaze
is
The
is to
heat, or, as
it
is
called, a
its
trans-
lucency.
The
district
The glaze for the soft ware is a specially (b.) Soft. prepared glass of the crystal kind, containing about
two-fifth parts of lead oxide.
Hardware
is
also
made
low tempera-
Meissen (Dresden), Berlin, Vienna, St. etc. The Chinese and Japanese ware also belongs to this class. In England hard porcelain was first made by Cookworthy at Plymouth (a.d. 1760),
at
English.
The English
Petersburgh,
the hard
the soft
contains lead.
is
metallic element
From
more convenient
is
to
than
The The
body
To
in
complete the
our goods,
is,
it
(sand or
gypsum, and
and alkaline ingredients) are fritted, that is, melted, cooled and pulverised, and then mixed with the infusible body which is a white marl. The proportions being three parts of the former to one of the latter, the softness of the ware is at once recognized. It is principally used for statuettes, vases, and such like articles. The most perfect examples of this kind of ware
saline
as a rule,
and
is
more trans-
may
Of
this
kind also
in
England, up
to the time of
Cookworthy, at the factories at Chelsea, Bow, WorDerby, Caughley, Colebrook Dale, Nantgaru,
Coalport, Swinton, Lowestoft,
and other
places.
differs
English Porcelain-The English porcelain from the hard in the introduction into the body
is
which
to
render
it
and
be scratched with the point of a penknife. A very practical test is that boiling water heat when suddenly applied is generally sufficient to crack it, but this I fancy will be seldom tried. We are 9. Effect of the Glaze upon the Painting. now in a position to form an opinion as to the extent of the influence which any particular glaze will have upon the appearance of the work .done upon it. It follows, from what has been said, that the harder the ware and its glaze, the more superficial is the latter while the softer the ware and the more like it its glaze, the more complete and intimate is the incorporation In the case of the hard ware the glaze is, of the two.
29
strictly speaking,
practically
a continuation of the
which these conditions operate immediately obvious when it is stated that the pigments are of a vitreous nature or are mixed with a vitreous vehicle. The harder the glaze, the more superficial and less glossy is the painting the softer and thicker the glaze, the more deeply does the colour sink into it. I have an old Augustan (Dresden) cup and saucer, one of the colours employed in the decoration of which has absolutely no union with the underlying glaze, and is secured only by its connection with the colour surrounding it. It has properly vitrified, but has not become incorporated with the hard glaze which appears in some spots where the colour has chipped off. Compare such a work as
in
is
The mode
because a person does certain work himself, the result is the cheaper by the cost of the labour of whoever would otherwise do it. This is not always the case, and in nothing is it less so than in certain branches
of china-painting.
The productions of the ordinary painter, whose wages are low, are in the style of the 18s. 6d. dessert service, " ornamented with every variety of fruit and flower, magnificently painted by hand," as the advertisements read. Such a man is very useful in his
way. In certain lines, indeed, such as call for rapid production and regularity, he cannot well be dis-
is
otherwise
this
Sevres,
and how
striking
is
appearance of the two. In the former the colours are in large part hard in appearance and dryish, and
generally lack that
full
which he works precludes the possibility of his improving upon the peculiar style referred to, and that is scarcely, I think, the style which we should like to see exemplified upon our walls or our furniture, or in an article which we would offer as, say, a
at
birthday
gratitude.
artist
;
gift,
to
be found
softness
From him we go by
is
on
'
the
latter,
which presents
is
velvety
really good,
and being, as a
of look.
The reason
to
is
The degree
of heat
rule, expensive, is
adapted
of fusion the
glaze
fail
to
affect
to
and looks more or less dry. If the hard some colours may altogether adhere, and the work of the painter, who
sufficiently
by mistake has selected a piece with such a glaze, be entirely thrown away. The softer glaze, on the
other hand, yields
into the
to
the
heat
sufficient
to vitrify
Now it may be presumed that the general amateur enters upon the study of china-painting, primarily with the view of affording pleasure to himself, and his friends and relations, and herein lies his great strength and the advantage of his position, for he can leisurely devote his energy to the attainment of excellence in any special line for which he has aptitude, and so may develop therein an individuality from which his work may acquire a high
few.
intrinsic value in addition to the estimation in which,
it
more
or less deeply
if
body of the glaze, thereby acquiring that peculiar depth and richness of tone, which have given such charm and value to the old English and French
wares.
becomes a
1
gift, it
may be
held from
its
associations.
1.
Principle of Selection.
its
range
of usefulness, as
is
The English
glaze,
from
of the advantages of the soft, and practically none of its disadvantages, and while but little less suited than
the latter for the particular work just indicated,
to the painter
is
he would not be at a loss both He must emulate the true He must engage in work artist, not the mere painter. which appeals to his head as well as to his hand, not in what is only routine or mechanical. What to Avoid. At the pottery there is opporselecting his work,
if
best
and every
convenience
adapted for every other kind of work, and is therefore an invaluable description. Special Position 10. Scope ofthe Amateur's Work.
may
of the Amateur.
Having
be necessary, and at the smallest expense. Hence, in the painting of a tea, coffee, chocolate, dinner, dessert, or toilet-service, which may have to be fired more than once, and which consists of several pieces, the decoration of each of which may be after a set design
of whatever kind,
it
will
done
better,
which much misapprehension exists. This is the nature of the work which an amateur may advanIt is popularly supposed that tageously undertake.
factory,
it will be found that the work can be more cheaply and more quickly at the than at home the standard of work being
What
to
Undertake.
If,
however, the
work be
other
or
years to come.
as
As
the basis to
fanciful, or
be occupied upon it by the pottery artist, and by the amateur who has achieved some facility in the use of his brush and colours, would be about the same, or
generally of strictly limited interest, the advantages
may
be requisite
to enable the
may permit. I would here urge upon all intending workers that, whatever scheme they may adopt, they should keep to, and work away at it
of his purse
steadily until all
is
and fancy may be exercised on objects of the greatest Among the pieces to be had are spill-vases, flower-vases, flower-pots, breakfast-cups and saucers
variety.
;
completed, for
many commence
sufficient patience to
especially, if I
may make
a suggestion to some
fair
show
the recipient;
have expended.
The
scribed
1.
specification
is
for the
be de-
decoration
is
elaborate, or contains
much
miniature
as follows
or variegated gold work, afternoon tea sets, plaques of various shapes, round, oval, oblong, or square, and
suitable
for
Open Diapason
to
feet tone.
,,
2.
3.
...8
...8
,,
,,
pictures
for
wall-decoration,
such
as
44
...56
>, ,,
,,
4.
5.
...4
,,
,,
,,
,, ,,
inlaying in
clocks
and
cabinets, or
for setting
as
to
..
44
,,
...S
6.
7.
...56
...25
...2
trays,
etc.,
all
Bourdon
(pedals)'
,,
...16,,
and the articles named are only a few of those which the amateur may decorate
with most advantage.
In the next paper the subject of material and apparatus will be entered upon.
( To be continued.)
Total,
281 pipes.
Couplers
octave
to
great to pedal.
in
The whole
about 6
If the
be enclosed
a general swell.
Size
it
considerably
or a nice
little
==$==-
ORGAN BUILDING FOR AMATEURS.
By 3IABK WICKS.
I. SPECIFICATIONS
instrument could be
stops only.
made by having
the
first
four
-NEW METHOD
for
OF MAKING PIPES,
1.
Open Diapason
Principal (flute)
to
Tenor
HERE
more
2.
...8
,,
,,
,, ,, ,,
fascination
the
amateur mechanic
3.
...4
...2
4.
,,
,.
than a musical instrument, and few, indeed, that, if the work be well carried out, will so fully reward him for his patience
Swell organ
5.
...56
...8
...8
,, ,,
,,
,,
6.
Keraulophon
to
Tenor C
...44
,,
and labour. The organ, that acknowledged king among keyed instruments, is of such construction that every portion of it may be made by a person possessing a little skill and a fair amount of patience and
ingenuity.
Pedal organ
7.
Bourdon
Total,
...25
,,
...16,,
,,
293 pipes.
Couplers
swell to great
In this respect
in
harmonium, as
great to pedal.
Same
size as
No.
1,
producing portions would not be placed to the credit of the amateur, but would necessarily be purchased, whereas every pipe in the organ could be mace by the
ing stops
Great organ
1.
Open Diapason
Stopt Diapason, Bass
Lieblich Gedact
amateur himself.
2.
...S
,,
,,
in
the previous
Swell organ
3. 4.
pages of this magazine, having excited much interest in the subject; I, therefore, now propose to give such instructions as will enable amateurs to build themselves a really useful instrument, that may be a source
of pleasure to themselves and their friends for
...44
...S
,,
Flute
(for
Principal,
small
...44
scale)
...4
Total,
144 pipes.
;
many
Couplers
octave en gieat.
or
may
not, be added,
it is,
above quoted
will
show
the amateur.
If
a coupler,
-
a 4-foot stopt
Stopt Pipes.
a
Open Pipfs.
Tenor C
Cs
The intending
cc
and, as
Diapason weighing about twenty ounces, or an open pipe the same size fourteen ounces, which will contrast very favourably with the weight of metal or wood in a similar pipe. They are easy to make,
dimensions he
will require.
The
for
same
an amateur being more likely to succeed with these than with ordinary pipes, as they require but little skill, and no expensive tools and having, practically, no join throughout their length, there is no long glue joint, as in wood, or soldered
;
each organ.
It will
be noticed that
in neither of
I
menFs
joint, as in
my
no
the
risk of leakage.
have worked out a new method of making them, and now propose to give the amateur the benefit of my experience. Many who would much like to build an organ are deterred from doing so by the great outlay necessary to purchase the pipes but it is now open
doing so
is,
that
same room
they are
easily be
much
damaged by rough knocks, and any form of pipe can be made; and last,
but not
As
least,
to to
anyone, by following
my
instructions,
make the whole 281 pipes required for Scheme 1, for a very much smaller sum than would be required to purchase
the open diapason alone.
for
them
in
the
following
TeucrC
Middle
Cs
manner
angles
That
,8
stop, in
D
Ds
a line 4 feet 6 inches long, and at right to the top of this line draw
the bottom of the
;
E
F Fs
15s.;
Bourdon, about ,11 or ,12; Principal, metal, .5 10s.; Keraulophon,,6; Flageolet; 3 I os.; thus running up to something like ,40 for the pipes alone. For pipes made on my system, about 10s. for
2 feet
below
G
Gs
another
thick line
A
As
foot
B
Middle
each stop
margin.
will
The
of
*-
C2
than
5s.
Many
my
Fs
C
!
D E
Gs
As
made
I
of paper; but
and others at 3 inches, ij inch, and one below the other. Mark a C against each of these cross lines, and 6 inches from the bottom set off a thick line and mark it with the word "mouth." Now divide the spaces between each c
line,
J
inch,
in
perfect-
not a
it
....
inches each, the next one into spaces of 1 inch, the next into spaces of A inch
'G'
new
one, but
am
has
Month
Mouth
ever before been practically worked out, and, indeed, it was the ridicule cast on
the idea by would-be knowing ones that
each of these
notes in the
names
of the
have shown induced me to persevere with it until I them in Fig. 1, only I have not been able succeeded. All pipes up to 2 feet long to show them all through as the scale is may be made of cartridge paper, but for too small to admit of it. To find the size THE SCALE. I. longer pipes stout brown paper is the of any pipe, you measure from the line *th full size. best. marked " mouth " up to the cross line The advantages I claim for my system are, that it is against which is the name of the required note this very cheap, far cheaper, in fact, than any system ordigives you the speaking length of the pipe, and the
as
I
same order
23
it,
and so you
will
may
require
up
feet long.
It will
be best
for the
amateur he
size to
to
make
starts
on the
one end, and irregular at the top. The outside join should be a straight line right down the cone, not winding round it; the paper can be cut so as to ensure this just before you finish rolling it up. When this is dry, both the tube and the cone must be painted or
varnished inside.
cult
the organ.
convenient
commence with
Though
it
may seem
rather a
diffiit is,
be the G2 in the treble of the open diapason. This pipe, as you will find from the scale, is 8 A inches speaking length, and about f inch diameter. You will require a mandrel to form it upon, and my method of making this is cheap and simple, viz., take a sheet of stout, smooth paper, 12 inches wide, and roll it up tightly until it is \rk inch diameter (the size required for our pipe), taking care that you roll it straight, and have the ends square, or your pipe will not be a true cylinder, but slightly conical. When you have rolled it to the right size, glue the edge down smoothly, and let it dry, which will only take a few minutes. If you have used a sufficient length of paper, you will now have a perfectly round straight firm mandrel to work on. I may say that an ordinary round lead pencil will answer very well for starting the rolling up. Now
cut a piece of nice srrrboth cartridge paper 9 inches wide, and long enough to go four times round the
however, quickly and easily accomplished by tying a piece of sponge on to the end of a thin cane or wire,
so that
it
forms a kind of
;
mop
the pipe
up and
it
down
job
is
done
in less
would
coat
much smoother
smaller
mop, or a
must be allowed to get thoroughly dry, and then you may trim off the top and bottom of the pipe with a pair of small pointed scissors, and trim off the top of the cone in the same way till it is exactly the same diameter as the tube, then rub the ends of the pipe and the top of the cone perfectly level on a
paint
The
wood
mandrel, this
will
round the mandrel and mark that distance by a pencil line, take it off, and then with a brush full of hot, thin glue go over all the rest of the paper up to the pencil line allow the glue a minute or so to soak in and the paper to stretch, and then carefully roll it round the mandrel, rubbing it well down with the fingers, or a small, round stick (the lead pencil will do very well) as you roll it up. When it is all rolled up, roll it between your hands on the table, like a cook rolling out dough, and rub the joint well down, and also rub the pipe all over with the round stick. Slip it off the mandrel (there being no glue on the first turn it cannot stick to it), and stand it up on end to dry, and it will be a tube 9 inches long, rh inch internal diameter,
;
Cut out a flat piece of mahogany or cedar j\ inch thick to the shape shown in Fig. 4, the straightpart being two-ninths of the circumference the top and bottom edge of this straight part should be slightly rounded off with fine glass-paper. This circular piece, which is called the languid, should just fit the bottom of the tube on which you may now lay it, and mark where the ends of the straight part come, then cut a three-cornered piece of that width, and about 1 inch long out of the tube immediately over it, as shown in Fig. 6. A piece must now be cut out of the front of the cone, but the gap must be slightly narrower, so that, when it is placed against the end of the tube,
covered with cork.
;
it,
to
5, is
on the top of
the cone.
Lay
perfectly straight
out.
All this
can be done
directions.
in less
takes
me
to write the
paper shaped as
inches deep.
in Fig. 2,
Commence
when. rolled up it will assume a conical shape of any diameter you may like to make it. Unroll it, give it a
roll it
and when it has had time to stretch, up again, rubbing it well down, inside and out, with a pointed stick to make each layer adhere
coat of thin glue,
where the piece is cut out lays flat on the and rub it down level, and proceed in the same way with the cone. Cut out two pieces of wood like Figs. 7 and 8 the first piece is chamfered on the front to form the upper lip, and the other is just rounded off at the top edges to form the lower lip. Glue the languid on to the bottom of the tube, and the under languid on to the top of the cone when dry you may bind on the upper and lower lips in their The proper position with a piece of narrow tape. height of the mouth is about a quarter of the
that the part
paper,
diameter.
thoroughly.
When
this is
3,
place the cone and the pipe together proper position, leaving a narrow windway between the straight edge of the languid and the
in their
24
lower
lip
hold
it
in that
position
and blow
cone,
17,
the marks
it
of the
and you
be rewarded by a musical note. If the note is not quite satisfactory, 'the upper lip may want shifting a little higher or lower,
will
may
require a
little
shifting.
The
it.
for
lay even round the joint of the pipe, to strengthen it. There may be a littl e piece of the pipe projecting on each side of the mouth, which should be taken off with a sharp penknife. This is the smal'est pipe that will require ears, which are simply pieces of veneer shaped as at A, in Figs. 12, 13 and 15, and glued on to the
it
show where
is
to
be cut
it
to
make
pipe against
the edges of
^ajiilil
to
On
the
the
lips,
so
edge
lan-
that no
wind
lost.
of
the
i
may be
gu
They
will
HI
ITG. 7.
want
edge
LIP.
chamwhere
fering on the
slanting
rection
di-
with
they
pipe,to
are
make
on
;
fine
:
pen-
glued to the
knife
about
twenty to the
inch for this
them
this
fit
may
be
pipe
the
this
is
done
with
voicing.
glass-paper.
Mark on
the
pipe
the
FIG. LIP.
8.
LOWER
SIZE.
height of the
FULL
the
mouth, then
take off the
.lips,
size required,
about
will
ins.
glue
and
in
them
their
bind them
with
places
tape.
in
Even
the
matter of
binding
there
right
is
sharp
FIG. 3.
knife.
on,
a IN
FIG.
9. SECTION
PIPE.
Thischamfer
OF CAP OF STOPT
IO.
and a
proper
to
wrong way
the
hasnowtobe
SHOWING
WOODEN
FIG.
6.
LANGUIDS IN POSITION, AND HOLES CUT READY FOR LIPS TO HE PUT ON.
;
SKETCH
coned
the
in, just
same as
pipes
metal
are, a
way being
bind with both ends of the tape, so that it crosses down the centre of the lip, you will then get the edges of the lip parallel with the edge of the languid. This is a point to te gained, as, if it is
not parallel, the note will be faulty, either squeaking or chifnng, as
the proper note.
it
It.
FIG.
2.
SKETCH OF
FINISHED
PIPE.
is
it
termed, before
is
it
speaks
If
satisfactory
you may
now
up,
lips
DRAWN TO
HALF FULL SIZE.
glue the foot on to the tube and stand it and when dry, rub down the sides of the and round the joint of the languids with
metal but the amateur cone being used for them need not lay out 7s. 6d. in buying a metal cone, as a common china egg-cup costing a penny, The will answer the purpose equally as well. under part of the foot will do to cone small pipes, and the cup itself will be used for large ones. You have merely to wet the chamfered part with your lips, place the foot of the egg-cup on it, and work it gently round with your
hands
till
it
is
coned
in the
in
sufficiently.
The
glass-paper to
make
it
look neat.
Cut a piece
hole should
come
25
is
may
about -^ f an inch in diameter for this pipe be made quite round by inserting the point
;
preserve
useful,
it,
and
it
will
now be
this
finished.
The
ex-
perience gained in
making
that
of a lead pencil.
When
dry,
the coning
is
quite
and you
will very
be enlarged with the pencil, or closed with the coning cup, as may be required, to admit the proper amount of wind. Trim down
of
manipulation, so
certainty.
Making a
to wait
some
time, as
you have
about
but when
1
r
FIG. 13.
SECTION"
OF PIPE
FIG. 14.
FRONT VIEW
LIP.
FIG. 14.
OF STOPT DIAPASON.
IAAAAA
FIG. 16.
SHOWING ARCHED
UPPER
_
FIG. 17.
FIG.
18. BLOCK COVERED WITH CORK FOR USING W ITII GLASS PAPER.
the top of the pipe with the scissors until it speaks rather too sharp a note ; then make a short piece of tube about 1 inch long that will just fit on the
pipe,
you commence on the sets of pipes required organ, you will find that no time need be lost. The first thing you will require to make
several mandrels, say one for every fourth pipe
for the
will
;
be
up and down. This is the tuning piece raising it will flatten, and lowering it will sharpen the tone. The appearance of the pipe will be improved if you chamfer off the top edge and the top and bottom edges of the tuning cap. Give the pipe and slider two or three coats of oil paint to
slide easily
;
and
make
them considerably longer than the pipe to be formed on them, for one mandrel may be used for more than
one pipe.
It is
maxim
in
necessary to
make one
VOL.
II.
26
the
CC
is
to
diapason.
C
it
if inch diameter.
The
is
scale as
stands
is
for the
open diapason,
will
be experienced
Having completed the tubes we may now proceed with the cones for the feet, and may use up the paper in the tube mandrels for that purpose. No mandrel will be
required for the cones for pipes less than
as to the
1
one scale smaller than the open diapason, the flageolet smaller, while thekeraulophon will be six scales smaller thus we may proceed with the tubes
;
inch diameter,
fit
some
pipe,
and can
be cut
is
off at either
end
size,
length in each pipe to cut off the tuning pieces the piece cut off one pipe will
as
fit on to a smaller one and thus save having to make separate pieces mark the distance of one turn round the mandrel by a pencil line on all of them, and mark them also with the name of the note of the pipe they are intended for. Suppose you start on 6 inch C, open diapason, you glue that sheet and lay it aside, glue another sheet for 6j inch B for the flute, and another for 5 J inch Cs. stopt diapason. Now take up your first sheet and roll it round the mandrel, proceeding in the same way as with the experimental pipe when finished draw it off and stand it up to dry, roll up the second sheet, and slip that off, then
all pipes up to 18 inches long, but above that length they should gradually increase till they are about 9 inches long for a 4-foot pipe. The length of foot makes no difference in the tone, so it is a mere matter of convenience and appearance. For the cones of the larger pipes you had
for pipes
better
make two
15 inches
same way
bear
all
as the cones, only very cones should be stouter than the pipes as they have to
Having completed the cones you may next proceed to paint the inside of both them and the tubes, starting with the largest as you can trim your sponge
wear.
third.
The reason
it
for
doing three
mop
While
is
that
the paint
the paper to stretch and the glue to get right for rolling
up.
You then
glue three
more
The stoppers for the stopt diapason and bourdon pipes may be made of wood shaped as in Fig. 10, covered
with leather round the lower edge, so as to
inside the pipe.
I
fit
and one of
tightly
prefer to
at the rate of
all
20 or 30 an hour when
covering or stopper
of of
and have
it
the stops in
hand simul-
tube the same as for the sliding piece for tuning the
Mark each
name
of the
you may be able to keep each stop separate. When you have made all the pipei you require on one mandrel, roll more paper round it and glue the edge down, to bring it up to the proper size of the next pipe, and so proceed till you have made all the tubes. Use cartridge paper for all pipes up to 2 feet long, using stouter paper for the larger ones, or else have five thicknesses instead of four. All pipes above 2 feet long should be made of stout brown paper, of which an excellent sort for our purpose is sold for laying under carpets, it runs 4 feet 6 inches, and sometimes 5 feet wide, and is continuous, the price at small shops is 3s. per dozen yards, but at large, or wholesale shops, it may be purchased much cheaper. The 4-feet pipes should have five or six thicknesses, and the larger bourdons seven or eight thicknesses. It will be more convenient if you make the large bourdons in two lengths, and then join them
note and the stop
belongs
open pipes, glue a piece of stout card on the top of Glue a strip of soft this, thus forming a box or lid. leather round the inside, having previously pared down the edges of the leather this cap is to fit tightly on the The leather should be outside of the pipe like a lid. rubbed with a mixture of tallow and black lead to make it slip easily, for it should not fit too tightly to be moved, as the pipe is tuned by moving it up or down. This cap is much lighter than the wood stopper, easier to make, and there is no danger of it slipping down, as stoppers sometimes do, when there is a sudden change in temperature. The caps should fit loosely on the pipes at first so as to allow for three coats of paint on the pipe, when they should fit perfectly air;
tight.
As
caps
it
is
they may be temporarily fitted by wrapping two or three thicknesses of paper round the
with
on,
pipe.
The caps
band of
it.
linen
or thin
American
is
is
cloth, to strengthen
The bour-
long for CC, and \ inch long for the smallest G. The tuning caps of the keraulophon are not closed at the
top,
don
CCC
8 feet long 2
feet
smallest
they should be 6 inches long for Tenor C, and i' In the centre of the
27
cap, a distance
is
Tenor C
a round hole f inch in diameter The pipe, and about tV inch for top G.
this hole is
is
best
way
to
size that
make when it
is
it out as shown and cutting through the marks with a tenon saw. The very best wood you can use for the languids and lips (except the smallest, which are simply veneer)
is
cigar-box wood.
or
the hole
twopence
threepence
most
tobacconists
or
Tenor C
J inch in diameter,
public-houses, and
many
touches
away
pipes
to their customers.
The
bit,
The
ends of the tubes instead of being simply glued on to them. Having prepared a quantity of languids, lips, etc.,
be
fitted into the
may
glue
them
it
to give a rich,
though
which
is
sages.
The
upper
flute
and
made
with the
About a dozen pipes is a good number to have in hand at one time for putting together. The windway for the largest bourdon is nearly
\ inch wide, for a
require a larger
lip
CC
stopt pipe
-rV
sloped down-
in Fig. 13.
This
should
mouths
to give
The
flute
much
thicker.
The
be softer in tone than the diapason, and the flageolet should be softer than the flute. The stopt diapason
is
voicing nicks are nearly 5 inch apart in a 4-foot pipe, but get closer and smaller as the pipe diminishes in
size, until
made
lip
is
cut
in the smallest
lower
lip
may be
little
below
They may be
and deep,
for
made
for the several stops are
Approximate Length ot Length of Longest Shortest
pipe pipe
file,
or a small penknife.
The
sizes of the
:
mouths
For a loud
a
soft,
as follows
Width
it
.v
or
Moath.
nf
by a
slight touch
m.i. Month.
its
Bourdon
One-third of
ft.
It.
width
4 ft. 4 ft.
4
ft.
One third
One-fourth One-third
2J in.
will
cause a
Keraulophon
Flnte
Flageolet
...
One-fifth One-fifth
One.-fifth
41 in. 4T in.
2 J in.
One
fifth
4
2
ft.
ft.
One-sisth
1^ in.
and bottom edges of the languid, the edges of the lower lip, and the front edge of the upper lip should be slightly rounded off,
but the inner edge of the top
If
it
The
feet are
lip
should be
is
left
square.
finished the
set right
wind and the voicing affect the sizes considerably, and they may have to be a little larger or a little smaller
according to circumstances.
CCC.
Bourdon Stopt Diapason Open Diapa3on
Fiute
\
windway
the lip
too narrow,
it
may generally be
flat
by
down between
CC.
fin.
\
Tenor
\ in.
C.
Middle
\ in.
C.
Top G.
\ in.
inch
fin. gin.
/i in.
in.
\ in.
Jin.
x% in.
,=,
^in.
fin.
"in.
,f,in.
Jin. Jin.
,\,
^ in.
i
in.
Jin.
in.
simply a stopt diapason of the same scale as the principal, but with a straight upper lip, and the lower lip slightly below the upper
is
The
Lieblich Gedact
and the edge of the languid, but if this is not a slip of fine glass-paper and insert that, moving it gently up and down, so as to take a very little off either the edge of the languid or the inner edge of the lip, whichever may be required, and then For cutting the lips a carefully touch up the voicing. little higher, and touching up the pipes generally, you will find the following tool very handy, and should
make
five
a thin
slip of
wood,
or veneer, say
at the other,
The
ness with the size of the pipe, that of a 4-foot pipe aid be \ inch thick. The same remark applies to
the
lips,
covered on one side with very fine glasspaper and on the other with some a little coarser. You will thus have four files in one. Another handy
little
in
size
and thickness
lip
appliance
5
is
shown
at Fig.
18,
it
is
a block of
The upper
of the
CC
wood,
thick,
and if inches
piece of cork.
The
lips
and
28
WALKING-STICKS:
HO W TO MAKE THEM.
prefer those with grotesquely-carved heads,
grasped
off the
in the hand, and may then be used to smooth ends of the pipes, the edges of the lips, and
and not a
But a
You
will
have
this block in
copse, or wood.
The
pipes, caps,
and tuning
a
little
pieces, should
have
of
its
owner by
its
rough head,
three coats of
oil colour,
with the last coat. It is a good plan to paint each stop a different colour, as they can then be picked out at
once.
rough bark, or its unpolished condition. To meet the wants of those who would like to prepare such sticks for themselves, the following hints are given, and may not be unacceptable.
shaft, its crookedness, its
Write the name of the note, and the stop, on the back of each pipe, using ordinary ink and a Waverley or Pickwick pen, as the points will not scratch the paint. Breathe on the place and pass the finger over it, the ink will then flow as nicely as on writing paper.
The painting or varnishing of the pipes preserves them from the damp, and improves both their tone and
appearance.
month of February nor earlier in month of October the best time of the year being from the first week in December to the last week in February. Sticks should be laid aside in only a moderately dry cool place, and should not be worked nor the bark taken off until they are half dry, then they are most supple and may be bent
spring later than the
the
autumn than
the
The
viz., all
to,
In laying by sticks to
close
trimmed
in
fact,
it is
on the mandrel, or they are apt to cast a little, which will not improve their appearance the foot to be perfectly straight with the pipe, the lips to be quite
;
to dry
fully
an inch long.
The
here.
following kinds of
edge of the languid and with each be even and regular, and the caps of the stopped pipes to fit perfectly airother, the nicks for the voicing to
tight.
walking-sticks in
woods are pulled and cut for addition to others not enumerated
Holly.
In
my next chapter
wood
pipes.
mode
from the side of older stems, and shooting up in nearly a straight line through the dense foliage above.
Occasionally they
across the growing end, or with a crook or knob.
of making
(To be continued.)
?$*
*'
WALKING-STICKS
By
HOW
TO MAKE THEM.
GEORGE EDWINSON.
These are the most valuable. Luck may sometimes hap on a well-grown sapling in the deep woods, this should be pulled or dug up for the sake of its roots. Saplings and hedge sticks may often be found, from 3 to 4 feet long, with the top part to the length of a foot, from \
to \
inch in diameter
lives
we
display a
make
whip handles,
Even in the palmy days when vigorous manhood does not some other excuse
if
purpose by country waggoners. Holly sticks should only be rough trimmed when
for this
in this state to season.
They make
and
skill
wood admits
of the carver's
more
left
he happens
to
have
the
mute companion of
his travels at
home.
and
rootlets.
A variety of
walking-sticks
tastes
by the
the individual.
by the fashion of the by some peculiar idiosyncrasy of Hence, whilst some prefer a lithe
Ash. Respectable sticks of this wood may sometimes be cut out of a hedge, or pulled from the side of an old stump or pollard, but the quality of such sticks
will
dug up
ash, as
some copse
holly stick, or hazel, others prefer ash or elm, others are content with nothing less than a stout oaken
cudgel,
little
it is
toughness and
revel in
to
a tough
all
ash
in point of stability,
bit
blackthorn
in
preference
other
woods.
again scorn our homely woods and will carry nothing commoner than a foreign cane or
Some
bamboo
fitted
and and the same remark applies to most sticks pulled from old stumps. Ash sticks must also be rough trimmed and well seasoned before they are barked
Hedge
old,
WALKING-STICKS
HOW TO MAKE
THEM.
29
and polished. The wood and curiously-formed rootknobs of ground ash will admit of excellent grotesque
carving.
Elm. From the roots of elm trees, saplings with a coating of rough bark will shoot up straight to a height of some ten or twelve feet. These will furnish
Oak.
stout
This of all sticks is the most reliable, and oaken cudgels are esteemed by most persons as
best
some of the best props to failing legs, as well as the weapons for self-defence against quarrelsome dogs and rowdy ruffians. Straight sticks of sapling
some good walking-sticks of the fancy type, the rough bark serving the purpose of ornamentation when the sticks are dried, stained, varnished, and polished. The
wood
and
is
when
dried,
sticks of
The
cut or
oak are not always easily obtained, but copse-wood sticks pulled from the stumps of trees form excellent
Hazel.
wood may be
Fig. 7.
Fig. 6.
Fig. 8.
Fig. 4-
Fig. 2.
FIG.
I.
Fig. 9.
SHOWING METHOD OF TURNING CROOK BY MEANS OF TOURNIQUET. FIG. 2. BLACKTHORN KNOB, ROUGH. FIG. 3. BLACKTHORN KNOE, TRIMMED. FIG. 4. CRUTCH FORM OF CROOK. FIG. 5. HALF CRUTCH. FIG. 6. ELM STICK. FIG. 7. - ASH ROOT, AS DUG UP. FIG. 8. ASH ROOT, TRIMMED. FIG. 9. ASH OR OAK KNOB, AS PULLED FROM POLLARD OR STUMP. FIG. 10. THE SAME, TRIMMED. FIG. II. STICK BENT AND TRIMMED TO FORM CROOK.
STICK,
CROOK
substitutes.
sticks
These should be selected for walkingwhich taper gradually from | of an inch just
the
pulled from almost every hedgerow and in any wood. Saplings are not unfrequently found of most symmetrical
below
knob or
crutch,
down
to \ inch at the
proportions,
tapering from
inch
Gnarled and crooked oak sticks are sometimes fancied, and heavy cudgels are sometimes
opposite end.
selected for defensive purposes.
Oak
sticks split in
off,
drying
when
or the
knots cut too close, or the sticks put away to dry in a very warm dry place they are then rendered useless
;
The wood is very has the disadvantage of bending and remaining crooked when leant upon heavily. It is also soft, and may be easily carved. Occasionally, hazel
light,
but
it
for walking-sticks
the form of
and cudgels. The wood and also the knobs or roots will admit of much
sticks
may be found
and
its
suckle,
WALKING-STICKS:
HOW
the
TO
MAKE THEM.
when properly prepared, varnished and polished. Blackthorn. This is the wood of the bush which
One
or two things
and the bullace or wild plum. In exposed positions it is only a dwarf shrub, but in sheltered hedgerows and woodlands it attains a height of some twenty feet, and its saplings run up to a length of from six to eight feet straight and taper, but covered with stout spines and small twigs. Those saplings make excellent walking-sticks, both when they can be dug or pulled up, and also when they have to be cut The spines and twigs must not be cut off close off. until the stick is half dried, and then cut with a sharp knife in fact, the knots left from the spines and twigs when left as slight round excrescences enhance the beauty of the finished stick. Blackthorn is more famous for its hardness, strength, stability, and durability, than for lightness, elasticity, and suppleness. A cudgel made of blackthorn will deal heavy blows, but when matched against one of oak would splinter The at the knots, the oak being the tougher stick. wood is hard and not easily carved, but the root knobs will admit of a very fine and smooth polish, most grateful to the palm of the hand of the tired pedesbears the
sloe,
;
first
If the stick
in the
to
and swung
:
hand, more for appearance than for use then any amount of skill in carvings may be expended on the knob but if the stick is for use, we should first consider its use. Round smooth-headed
;
knobs
(Fig. 3) carved
into the
and polished to fit comfortably palm of the hand, will meet with most
acceptance from those who use a stick as a support. But knobs thus formed, and shorn of a projecting crook or hook, often slip from beneath the arm or out
for
hand when its owner wishes to use both hands some purpose for instance, to light a cigar or a pipe. The head of a dog with a long muzzle, the head
of the
of a
for
such
The
is
form (Fig.
ordinary
too
crook
(Fig.
although
fit
useful for
many
is
much
its
train.
Its
is
usually finds
of the
and
it
is
sometimes used
for this
purpose.
the
Among
very
nice
;
trees,
furnish
some
carver's attention.
sticks with metal
We
fancy
sticks,
and
of
tolerable
heads of gold, or
or silver
and apple wood, when well and carefully Grape-vine and dried, will yield some good sticks. briar sticks are sometimes used, but they cannot be relied upon for stability when leant upon.
strength
head of the
the
also
consideration,
When
is
to peel freelv,
is, when the bark sappy greenness and refuses they may be trimmed, straightened, or
barous
stick
relic
known
as the sword-
To straighten or to bend them, bent as required. they may be held over steam until rendered supple,
or
attained, they
buried in hot wet sand until this end has been must then be given the form they are
Elm sticks with the rough bark left on (Fig. 6) must be neatly trimmed naked around the neck of the knob, and at the bottom of the stick just above the ferrule, loose bark should also be neatly trimmed with a sharp knife, and the whole lightly gone over with
medium
glass-paper.
form
intended to assume (whilst still hot), and kept in this until they are cold, straight sticks being tied
The
and be
left
to dry.
and wound with a coil of rope from end to end, or suspended from a beam by the knob end, whilst a heavy weight is hung from the small end. Crooks may be turned by immersing the end in boiling water for five or ten minutes, then bending it to the desired form, and securing it in this
firmly in small bundles,
When
with a
dry.
it
will
little
polish,
and
finally give
of hard
spirit,
or of copal varnish.
cherry, apple, birch, etc., should have part of their bark only taken off with a sharp knife, leaving all knots smoothly trimmed, rounded, and clean. The
sticks
i) until
the stick
is
should be
then
lightly
glass-papered,
oil,
and
boiled linseed
dried,
knife, if so required,
wood of the stick. Knots may same time, and the knob trimmed
fast rules
and varnished. Oak sticks look best when barked in hot water, cleared of the loose
with
oil,
polished
and
31
oak
varnish.
Blackthorn
sticks
expeditiously,
and
far truer,
workman
to
at
the
same time
amount of
Sticks
may
be stained black
after
chisel.
by
first
We illustrate in Fig.
when
this
has well-
boring machine combined, a tenoning arrangement could also be easily added if desired. Compared with
them some vinegar or acetic acid which a quantity of proto-sulphate of iron, some iron rust, or some old rusty nails has been steeped some two or three days previously. A brown or mahogany tint may be given by adding some dragon's blood to the polish, and a yellow tint may be obtained by adding yellow ochre. Some persons use ink for a black stain, and others put drop black in the varnish, but the black stain above mentioned is preferable to all others. The sticks are to be polished and varnished after the stain is dry. The bottom ends of walking-sticks should be guarded from excessive wear by a neat brass ferrule, but these are more cheaply bought than made. They should be secured to the stick by two small screws, one on each side of the stick, to prevent them from coming off when they
in
hand-labour the work this machine would perform would be in the ratio of about six to one.
The
action of the
machine
is
easily understood.
The counterbalanced
shown in the engraving, which can be worked either by one or both hands, gives motion to the chisel. It
is
at the top of
The wood
to
be operated upon
in front of the
is
is
placed on a
turning the
By
large hand-wheel
shown
This plan
work, but for heavy work a self-acting arrangement can be used with advantage. This self-acting
is gained by a side rod from the forked lever, by means of a stop-piece on another small weighted lever, at the end of which is a wrought-iron paul, acting on a toothed wheel, which is fixed to a
motion
acting
<=.
spindle. A pinion on this spindle works in a rack beneath the table. Thus when the forked lever is in work, a lateral motion is given to the same. It can
TATLEB,
C.E.
ORTISING
machines
may be
divided
in
be thrown out of gear, when not wanted, by The chisel used is of solid stop-piece. cast steel tapered somewhat on back and sides, with a plain tapered end fitting into a socket, which will be found preferable to an end fitted with a feather, as the
easily
moving the
which worked with a reciprocating motion, and those in which it is worked by a rotary motion. Many modifications of these two motions are however adopted, in order to suit the different classes of work
the chisel or cutter
is
those
feather
is
and
twisted.
of
a pair of bevel
in the spindle
The tenoning
fitted
arrange-
ment
or material that
it
is
The
the chisel
invention
of
generally to
mortising
Rees, in his " Cyclopaedia" (1819), mentions several machines that were made by Brunei, in connection with Henry Maudslay, in 1807, for the Government, and which were in successful operation at Portsmouth Dockyard, and elsewhere, for many years. Hand and foot-power mortising machines are always of the reciprocating class. Those worked by hand-power are extremely useful tools, and much superior to those worked by the foot. To an amateur a small mortising machine would present the advantage of enabling him, without acquiring any special skill, to make a mortise far more
and working in a slide fixed to the table. This machine is capable of mortising either hard or soft wood, and boring wood or iron and other metals. It can be obtained complete, as shown in the engraving, for mortising and boring, but without the tenoning
socket,
chisels,
core-driver,
arranged
Fig.
^16.
for
lighter machine,
12s.
of similar pattern, 22
also
made
^12
boring machine
described.
of lighter pattern
is
than
that
just
The design
and the base are all in one piece, thereby giving the machine greater strength and increased firmness in
'
32
working.
slides,
The bracket carrying the chisel works in V and the action is direct, and always over the work, and not so liable to wear loose by the jarring produced by the chisel. The chisel can be removed
or replaced instantly, thus effecting a considerable
saving of time.
chisel
is
The arrangement
and
accurate,
and not
For
light
work
this
is
bottom than which carries the wood can be made to cant so that it can be fixed at any angle that may be required. When holes have to be bored, or mortises and tenons cut at an angle, this is performed by means of a quadrant and pointer, worked by a worm and worm wheel, it can likewise be so arranged as to rise and fall when the work varies very much.
is
The
table
Fig. 23
is
a small boring
machine
count
of
which,
its
on
ac-
mortise
simplicity
efficient
of construction,
working,
ought to
the
cost,
itself
as
from i inch to
core-driver,
I
inch,
chisel
re-
mover,
drills
screw
iron,
for
key,
3
3
is
whole apparatus is The depth of the hole to be bored can be accurately gauged by means of a set screw upon
only 2olbs.
for
and
for
When the hole has been bored to the desired depth, the rack
the standard.
commence work
two
with the
by continuing
tion as
in
to turn the
making a
slight
the
it
auger
is
withdrawn,
is
chisel,
and again bring it down, and note carefully whether it falls square between the gauge lines or not. In wedging a mortise, it is
only necessary
to
motion of the handles the rack can be thrown out of gear, and
raise
make
fore
the
wedge
cut be-
removing same.
In
desired angle.
of the
The
price
much
as
possible,
at the
rack, stop,
and graduated
and which
considerable in mortising
column
only.
is
2
5sis
16s.
Arranged
hard woods, an india-rubber washer, about an inch in thickness, should be fitted on the spindle immediately beneath the cross-head. The operation of the tenoning arrangement isithe same as for mortising, only that instead of being cut away in the middle the wood is cut at the edges, and the tenon left in the centre. This
is
Fig. 25
made
of
wood
instead of iron.
The
14s.,
way
is
so self-evident as
hardly to
demand any
explanation.
The machine
E 2
34-
ITS CONSTRUCTION.
it
is
tially
desired to
make
strictly
adhered
to,
by means of a set screw in those with an iron column, and of two half-quadrants and thumb-screws in those with a
carefully adjusted to the required angle
ideas of his
own
in
ability, there-
wooden one. The operator then places himself astride upon the wooden base, and gives motion to the handles. His weight is sufficient to prevent the machine from shifting, and the weight of the slide and spindle causes
the auger to feed automatically.
Fig. 26 represents a
methods are sometimes appended by which construction is rendered more simple but bear in mind, the only difference will be in manual labour and not in expense, and as the amateur is to be his own carpenter, that is a matter of no importance, and
fore alternative
;
very profitable
for cutting mitres,
way
of
spending
the
long
winter
machine
evenings.
I
As compared with a saw, half the time is saved, and besides sawn mitres are far inferior in quality and
etc.
strictly
in the
accuracy of
fit.
atone stroke,
necessary, however
work may
be.
Gilt,
veneered, hard-
wood and
in
on in and rains of winter, followed by the hot sun of summer, it would be far from light-tight, which is the one thing necessary to produce satisfactory results.
adhere to the principle as shown in the plans Supplement, as if the timbers are simply nailed the ordinary way, I am afraid after the storms
any other way, as well as the rebates in bolection mouldings which are left without breakage. To use the machine the wood is simply held by the left hand,
whilst the cut
this
is
The
skylight
ture
all
must be avoided.
it
If the
the forenoon
if
west,
made
The
price of
machine, to mitre 3 inches by 2j inches, is $ 10s. Booth's Mitre-cutting Machine, noticed in "Notes on Novelties " in this Part, is a cheaper machine than
is
the
hence
this is
and will, therefore, be regarded with more favour by most amateur wood-workers. The two mortising and boring machines can be obtained from Messrs. M. Powis, Bale, & Co., 20,
this,
be noticed that the side light slopes inwards, the part claimed as original, as it will be
light, as
Bud%e Row, E.C. Swan's patent boring machine from the Russell & Erwin Manufacturing Company, 47,
Upper Thames Street, E.C. The mitre cutting machine from Mr. B. Haigh, Engineer, Oldham.
more evenly
in
will
=>-==^==-=.
thing
to
be done
is
to turn excavator.
to the length
fill
(For Illustrations,
see
Supplement
to this Part.)
HE
following
is
a description of a novel,
I
and
the outset
would give the invaluable motto, which should be worked out in all photographic operations, viz., " Nothing can be done too thoroughly." On referring to the plans in the Supplement, it will be seen that the writer's aim is not as many recommend, to knock up any kind of a shed, and think it will do, but to give carefully-prepared plans and specifications for a studio that will be an ornament to the garden and a
credit to
its
brickwork as you Excavate for, and lay, where shown by strong dotted lines on ground plan, good glazed earthenware socketed drain-pipes 4j inches diameter, lay to a proper fall, well bed and joint with good clay puddle, fill the ground up, and well ram. Of course, each person must carry the pipes to the nearest existing drain. Build where shown on plan, two brickbreadth eyes (or grids) in cement with a flag bottom, and cover over with 18 by 18 by 6 inch stone cover, with a 9 by 9 inch cast iron stench
for the brick foundation,
in to the
ram
the same.
trap grid.
It is
not essen-
The bricks should be the best common, and should be hard, square, and well burned, and should be carefully selected for uniformity of colour and regularity of shape and the brickwork should be well flushed through with mortar. If you do not buy your mortar, it should be composed of the best Buxton or Welsh lime
;
CONSTRUCTION.
will
35
in
of one-
botto
-l
be thoroughly well mixed together. The brick foundation must have two courses of footings and about two courses above the ground level in all, about six courses high and 9 inches thick.
may
either
make a
job, as
it all
am
depends upon the work you put in. I myfond of cutting and caning, and when I begin
I
shall
have
finished.
My object
art, that
is
to
produce even-thing
it
in the
photographic
if it
be
fit
to obtain his
commendation.
The
best
timber to use will be the best Baltic red deal, and should be carefully selected, to be free from sap,
shakes, large loose or dead knots, and in
all
cases must
it
be well seasoned.
On
is
will
;
all
it
worked out
will
to \ inch scale,
little
and
timber figured,
be of very
use going
to
any great extent of describing them here. The perspective is \ of an inch to a foot and the
Next comes the doorand a lintel casing, 4! by 1 1 inch, to be properly framed together the roof of the doorway to have spars 2 h by 25 inches, and two end pieces, as shown in perspective view, 4J by 2 inches, the spars to be notched same as in large roof. The door-frame must be rebated on the inside so as to admit the door to fit in, and the The door must be a outside must be chamfered. 2-inch framed four-panelled door, the bottom panels fitted in with diagonal battens, the upper panels rebated so as to receive glass (or you might here introduce a couple of transparencies from your own negatives); hang the door with one pair of 4-inch butts or hinges, and fasten with strong ornamental thumb latch and a 10-inch wood stock lock. The inside door from studio to dark-room should be a 1% inch framed four-panelled, and moulded one side, hung to the two uprights, as shown, with one pair of 3-inch butts, and fastened with a 6-inch iron rim lock,
it is
place.
way and
is
composed
of two uprights
The
is
first
the plate or
sill
that
On
spars
on the brickwork, in a good bed of well made mortar this plate must be 6 by 3 inches, well mortised
laid
;
at
angles,
and
will
require
by 2 5 inches, fastened from uprights to spars and stopped by blocks at each end; the object of these are to help to support the roof. At each end where
the skylight does not come, the spars are kept together by the stays, but as it is desirable to cause as few shadows as possible, hence this contrivance. Then next comes the filling up of the frame of the building. This must be done in accordance with the plans and the description of the work that will be given presently. Certainly it will take up much time, but the work will be much more satisfactory in every way. It is necessary that the filling up should be done in many pieces, if not, it is bound to warp and become useless. If you do not care to go to the trouble of
The
corner ones 4A by 3
3-},-
inches, the intermediate uprights to be by 3 inches, and the cross-rails 3 by 3 inches, the top rail or wall plate, on which the spars are fastened, must be 4^ by 3 inches, the sill proper must be 6 by 3 inches on the front of the studio, but round the remainder of the building it must be 4^ by 3 inches. Of course, if you intend constructing the woodwork as shown on the plans, it will be necessary to do the stop chamfering before you fix your uprights and cross rails. When you have got all your framework cut, planed, and mortised, fix them all temporarily together, and see that they fit properly, then wedge up with good wedges dipped in glue be sure to take great care that you get your structure perfectly perpendicular and square. Next comes the roof timbers. Ridge piece, lettered on plan A, 6 by ij inches Hip pieces B, 8 by ii boardings c, 7 by 1 Spars d,3 by 2^
;
is
to
obtain
some
tongued and grooved V-jointed boarding 6 inches wide, but be sure you have it immediately after it has been stoved. Any builder will stove you what you want. It should be stoved for about nine days immediately
before being used. The method of fixing is a very easy plan: on the inside of each upright nail two small ribs, which must be mitred at the corners, and must
E,
2jby2
f, 3 by \\ The ridge and hip pieces are to fasten the spars to, the hip boarding is fastened to the spars where
Stays to spars
roof. The cross bars are to be fastened to the spars as shown, to prevent the outward thrust; the
shown on
be i by 3 inch, and placed 1 inch apart, so as to admit of the panelling, as in sketch on plan. Of course, put the outside rib on first, which must be inch from front face of each upright, or crosspiece, then from the inside put in your panels, and be sure they are fitted as tightly as possible, then nail on the inside rib. The small window in the dark room is in two
parts,
each
foot square,
side of the
36
upright should be of li inch
rebated
room roof
and beaded,
each being fastened with two small hinges, so as to open for ventilation ; to be glazed with best quality of ruby glass.
must be composed of 4A by 3 inch joist, shown in section, on which should be laid 1 inch tongued and grooved 6-inch wide boards, these boards should be cramped together (you can borrow a cramp where you buy your timber), well nailed down, punched, puttied, and dressed off. Now comes the window and skylight; and as the window frame has a considerable weight to carry, it will be necessary to make it look rather formidable. For the window, the frame must be composed of upright bars, as sketch on plan, 2^ by if inch crossbars, 2 by ii inch the uprights must be let into the sill at bottom, and wallplate at top. For the skylight, frame 2 by if inches, which must be treated same as the spars, and made to project about 3 inches. It will be necessary to form a wooden ridge from the centre
floor
The
laid crossways, as
must be step-flashed with lead, average 10 inches wide, which must be driven in between joints in timber, and pointed in mastic cement. The whole of the wood and ironwork must have the first coat on the ironthree good coats of paint work should be red lead and boiled linseed oil, and all woodwork should be thoroughly pumiced before
;
the last
coat
is
applied
the
depend upon the choice of the builder but the inside should be painted in any of the neutral tints; of course, if the outside was stained and varnished with copal varnish, it would add much to the beauty of the studio when finished. You will require two stone steps at the studio door these you had better buy ready made. The interior arrangement of blinds, reflectors, dark room, etc., will be treated on in a future article. {To be continued.')
;
the cross-bars in
skylight
and must not come up to the face of the frame, as the top square must overlap the bottom one about 2 inches. The whole of the windows should be glazed with 24 ounce sheet-glass (perfectly white), should be selected, free from specks, waves, or other imperfections, and should be wellbedded in good hand- made putty, and thoroughly
ij
if inches,
must be
by
IV, FORWARDING,
^jN my
used
are,
last paper,
made mention
of keys
now
will
be able to do their
go into the matter very and one that would do here well, is a 24 by 12 inch, second quality, of Duchess Welsh slates, which should be laid on 2i by f inch Baltic battens, each slate should have 3 inches lap, and
slating,
I
own
shall
not
In a note in the same paper have also spoken about a box, to be used instead of a proper sewing-press the accompanying illustration
in Fig. 22.
I
;
deeply.
in Fig. 2
may
End
thing to be done
Papers. When a book is sewn, the first is to make and put on the end
should be nailed with two 2 inch galvanized iron nails, and should be well tiered underneath with good
lime and hair mortar.
The
should be double
slating
is
the hips must be close cut, and to improve the appearance of the roof inside, after the
;
finished,
to see if
it
is
it
much more
It is intended to cover the ridges with blue Staffordshire ridged tiles, except the centre portion, that is where the skylight
SUBSTITUTE
The
must be wood.
The gutters must be about 3f by i\ inches, and the down-spouts 2f inches; of course, you must see that you get the necessary stopped and returned ends to
and properly secure them to spars with wrought-iron hanging irons, and the down-spouts must
gutters,
at bottom.
The
amateur can use any fancy or plain paper he wishes, always with due regard to good taste. The various patterns are numerous, and as there is generally a pattern-book hanging up at the various material shops, a choice can be readily made the price varies according to the colours, patterns, and size. The size most suitable will be found to be demy, the price ranging from 9s. to 95s. the ream, or from 6d. to 5s. per quire. here give a brief notice of a few papers I
:
37
are very pretty, and
vogue.
Some
of the patterns
Cobb Papers are used generally for half-binding The paper is stained throughchocolate
is
It
is
called cobb,
after the
Messrs. Corfield, of St. Bride Street, Ludgate Hill, have a very good selection, the price varying according to the paper and pattern. Marble Paper is used more extensively than any
other.
name of a binder who used it on his books. The paper was made by a manufacturer who, not being
Some
very insipid
of
FIG. 23.
-MODE OF PUTTING BOOK IN I AYING PRESS, WITH KNOCKING DOWN IRON AGAINST WORK.
it,
FIG. 24.
patterns must be
on Cobb's bindings, took a fancy to it, and called it cobb paper, to distinguish it from other papers and the manufacturer, instead of having a loss, found it was as much as he could do to supply the market. Price 9s. per ream, demy. Surface Paper is prepared on one side with a layer of colour. This paper is used mostly on prayerbooks, Bibles, and theological books. Printed, or Fancy Paper, is coming very much into
cheaply to Mr.
;
Cobb
left to the amateur, for what the one would call pretty, the other would cry against. Although the manufacture of marble paper is within
the sphere of bookbinding, this branch, like bookedge gilding, is very seldom done in the binders' shop,
who do nothing else but either book-edge gilding or marbling. There is no doubt that marble paper was first introduced into England from Holland, wrapped round small parcels of Dutch toys. After being carefully smoothed out, it was sold to bookbinders at a very high price, who used it upon
there being houses
38
their extra bindings
;
to
make them
is
quite
flat.
find that
enough, they joined two or more together. After a time, the manufacture was introduced into England
,
pasting
seems.
To
paste
but either the colours are not prepared the same way,
or the paper itself
the edge
in
may
of the
ful that
paper
don't
the
the colours are not brought out with such vigour and
make
is
it
slide well
be careall
pasted,
and remove
and it baffles our ablest marblers of the present day to reproduce many of the beautiful examples that may be seen on some of the old books. Marble paper may be purchased from any of the binders' material sellers, from is. per quire, according to quality. Messrs. Corfield, St. Bride Street, Ljidgate Hill, have some very good patterns, and, having their own marblers, make any pattern to order. Again, Messrs. Eadie, Queen Street, IV. C, have just introduced what they term gold marble ; that is, a gold vein intermixed with the colours, giving a very excellent effect and the price being no more than best marble, is within the reach of the amateur. Although it will be found to be far cheaper to buy marble paper than to
paper.
secret of the art has
Some
been
lost,
mark
the
book; never attempt to take up the brush from the paper before it is well drawn over the edge of the paper or it will stick to the brush and turn over. The book must now be prepared to have the end papers pasted on. Should the book have too much swelling, it must be tapped down gently with the hammer.
Hold the book tightly at the fore-edge with the left hand, knuckles down, rest the back on the press, and tap the back gently with the hammer. This
requires to be carefully done, for
if
the book
slip
is
not
in at the
strength
of his wrist.
Knock
the
back
make
it
oneself,
shall try, in
some
future paper, to
his
explain
how
the amateur
may make
own marble
paper and marble his own book-edges. My readers should have now a fair idea of the various papers used in the trade; and it will be advisable if he has a few sheets of the various papers he fancies by him, keeping them carefully in a portfolio
demy and
royal.
made by
fold
Take
two pieces
to the size of
the book, treat two pieces of white or toned paper the same. A white or toned folded paper is laid doVn on
on the laying press, and place the book in the press without boards with the back projecting screw the press up tightly, so that the sheets cannot slip. A knocking-down iron should then be placed against the book on its left side (Fig. 23), and the back hammered against it the slips or cords must now be pulled tight by holding the one side tightly against the book with the left hand and pulling the other end with the right. Should it happen that a slip is pulled out nothing remains but to resew the book, except, perhaps, if it be a thin one, it may possibly be reinserted with a large needle but this will not do the book any good, it strains the thread, thus making the
flat
; ;
sections loose.
The
slips
being pulled
an old millboard, which we shall call for the future a pasting-board, and with moderately thin paste the The two fancy folded white is pasted very evenly. or marble papers are laid on the top, quite even with the back or folded edge. The top fancy paper is now they to be pasted, and the other white laid on that must now be taken from the board, and after a squeeze in the press between pressing-boards, taken out, and
;
and last section should be pasted to its neighbour. Lay the book on the edge of the press and throw the top section back, lay a piece of waste paper upon the next section about i or J inch from the back, according to the width of the overcasting and size of the book, paste the space between the back and the wastepaper, using generally the second finger of right hand,
holding the paper
the waste paper
is
down with
the
left.
When
pasted,
hung up separately
to dry.
room
be found very useful to hang the end papers on. When they are dry, they should be folded in the old folds and pressed for about a quarter of an hour. When there are more than one pair of ends to make, they need not be made one pair at a time, but ten to fifteen pairs may be done at once by commencing with the one white, then two fancy, two white, and so on, until a sufficient number has been done, always pressing them to ensure the surfaces adhering properly, and hanging them up to dry. When dry, press again,
removed and the section put back evenly with the back of the book, which is now turned over carefully that it may not shift, and the other end treated in the same manner. A weight should be put on the top, or if more than a single book one should lie on the top of the other, back and fore-edge alternately, each book to be half an inch within the fore-edge of the book next to it, with a few pressing Should the books be of boards on the top one. various sizes, a board must be placed between each When dry, the end papers are to be different size. pasted on. A single leaf of while paper is cut, one
39
thicker the book, the
;
are to be
side
down
cult
it
its
back.
The
more
diffi-
down on a
press to keep
clean,
with
made
uppermost, the single leaves on the top. They should then be fanned out evenly to a proper and equal
width, about 3 of an inch for an octavo, a piece of waste paper put on the top, and their edges pasted.
The
is
fly
and some papers be found to round it will be found more obstinate than others, so that great care must be exercised both in rounding and backing, as the fore-edge when cut will have exactly the same form as the back. Backing. The boards required for backing, called backing-boards, should be as near as possible, the
will
They
are
made somewhat
their tops
the
made ends on
till
a few
and left
quite dry.
When
be broken back
planed an angle, so that the sheets may fall well over, and will perhaps be advisable if a piece of iron be it screwed to the tops to prevent their wearing, and so
save the amateur the trouble of replannig. Both sides being then properly rounded, one of the backingboards is placed upon the volume at an equal distance
and have
bodkin for the unravelling, and the back of a knife for scraping the object being that they may with greater ease be passed through the holes in the millboard, and the bulk of the cord be more evenly distributed and beaten down, so as not to be seen after the book
:
now be glued up
that
is,
and make the back firm during the rounding and backing. Knock the book perfectly true at its back and head, and put it into the laying press between two pieces of old millboard it will perhaps be better to knock the boards and book up together, especially if the boards have been squared, the slips lying close
together,
;
from the back, taking the edge of the top sheet as a guide, the distance to be a trifle more than the thickness of the millboards intended to be used then turning the book and board carefully so that it does not shift, the other is placed in a similar manner, and the whole put carefully into the press (Fig. 24). Should the boards have shifted during the process, they may be
;
is
hammer, the overplus taken off again with the The book must now be carefully taken out of the press so that the sheets are not shifted, and allowed to get dry. About one hour will be sufficient, but on no account should it be placed before the fire,
as the heat from the fire causes the glue to get brittle.
must be screwed up as tight as possible with the press-pin. The back of the book must now be gently struck with the back of the hammer, holding it slanting, and beating the sheets well over towards the backing-boards. The back is to be finished with the face of the hammer, bringing the sheets well over on the backing-boards, so that a good and solid groove may be made (Fig. 25). When backed the book should be as shown in Fig. 13, in page 363 of Volume I. of this magazine. (To be contimied.)
the press
over the back will be found of great benefit, the roundthe glue retains
its flexibility.
Rounding.
book, and
is
Rounding
the laying
applies to the
preliminary to backing.
GEORGE EDWINSON.
placed upon
I.-SOFT SOLDERING,
The
it,
flat
it
were possible
edge with the four fingers the leaves or rather the whole of the book must be drawn forwards, and with the right hand, the back beat lightly with the flat or face of the himraer, beginning in the centre of the
articles consigned to a premature tomb for want of a bit of soft solder, we should find that
cerning the
many household
many
In our towns
the
drawing the back over with the left hand. The book is then to be turned over and the other side treated in the same way, and continually changed or turned from one side to the other until it has its proper form, which should be a part of a circle. When sufficiently rounded, it should be examined to see if perfectly level, by holding the book up and glancing
back,
still
and picks up a respectable livelihood out of the twopenny jobs of soldering done by him in the
street, whilst
he saves
many a
upon them. But, in remote country villages, farms, and hamlets, his visits are few and far between, and the rag-plugged pot becomes too far
by
4
gone
it.
Much
be cured when the pot doctor calls to mend of this waste might be prevented by the
art of applying
it it
and the
is
so simple as to
is
On
almost every farm, and in most labourer's dwellings, may be found tools for doing a little amateur carpentering,
soldering iron
shoe-mending, and tailoring, but the use of the is known to only a few persons con-
and forge the other end in the The forked end clasps Fig. 1, as shown at Fig. 5, and is attached thereto by copper rivets through holes drilled through the iron and the copper, and the tanged end is inserted in a file handle to form the perfect tool shown at Fig. 6 this is the most common form of soldering iron, some others are shown at Figs. 7 and 8. Soldering irons made in this
end of copper, Fig. form of a tang, Fig.
1,
4.
nected with the sheet-metal trades. Letters received by our Editor, personal inquiries addressed to me
privately,
way have the disadvantage of being liable to derangement from splitting of the wooden handle. This is
caused by the heat of the tang in contact with the wood. To obviate this defect a friend of mine devised a method of attaching the copper, which not only improves the tool, but makes it more simple to the amateur manufacturer. The copper bit is attached to a 5 inch length of \ inch gas barrel by drilling and tapping a hole in the copper, and screwing it on the gas barrel the other end of this is screwed into an expanding union, which forms a ferrule for the
;
have shown me the necessity of giving a series of short articles under the above heading, to supply a want so universally felt and expressed. In this series I propose to deal briefly with all the requirements of the amateur under this head, with the exception of those more fully dealt with by the author
of " Practical Gas-fitting," and those specially related Commencing with the easier task of to plumbing.
soft soldering,
I
wooden handle.
handle
rod,
is
To ensure additional strength, the bored to receive a short piece of | inch iron
is
intend leading
my readers
on
to the
more
difficult
known
pipe flame, those of uniting metals by the process as brazing, and then, perhaps, treat of the
saucepan, have been sold in the street for the modest sum of is. From an examination of a few specimens
of those soldering tools
I
and
will
may
2,
out of
homely
;
a soldering iron
a
;
scraper
5,
3,
file
4,
a strip of soft solder 6, a box of powdered resin 9, 7, a candle end ; 8, a few scraps of roofing zinc a sheet of emery cloth ; to, a tin box to hold the
; ;
above articles. The Soldering Iron is one of those misnomers so often met with in lists of technical terms, for, its essential
screwed and fitted to the and the other end is fitted with a slotted nut inserted in the end of the wooden handle. To ensure a clear perception of the plan, the whole is shown in section at Fig. 9. This plan may be adapted to the ordinary copper bit, by using a piece of \ inch gas barrel, splitting one end as a substitute for Fig. 3, and riveting it to the copper. If the wooden handle shrinks and allows the ferrule to get loose, a turn or two of the nut will tighten all up again, and a few small holes bored in the gas barrel shank will materially assist in keeping the handle cool. The Scraper may be only an old pocket-knife, or an old saw file forged flat at one end and bent into the form of Fig. ioa, or a piece of a reaping machine knife with a hole punched in the centre to admit an iron tang being riveted in it, like a ship's scraper, Fig. iob, or a steel-bladed scraper, as shown at Fig. ioa. Its use is to scrape off all patches of solder and to scrape oxidised metal and dirt out of crevices where we wish the solder to run. The File may be an old saw file, or a small flat file, costing from 4d. to 6d.; its use being only to file down any roughness or inequality on the article which may prevent making a smooth joint.
interior of the \ inch gas barrel,
Spirits of Salts.
spirits," is
This, and
its
part
is
not
of
made
The
Get a
file
another misnomer.
The
not a
spirit,
usual
method
making
but an acid,
named
commonly
3 inch length of \ inch copper bar, one end to the shape shown in Fig.
and forge or
1.
known
Then
file
5
the
2.
Next procure a
inch
Put half of
it
length of I inch square bar iron, heat one end in the forge fire, and split it with a cold chisel, as shown at
Fig. 3
;
in
marmalade or jam pot, or old mug, stand the open air, and put in a few scraps of clean
;
flat
to
fit
the
roofing zinc
it
4i
lead 3 parts. Melts at 310 Fahr. lead 4 320
of zinc, whilst the other part (hydrogen) is thrown off into the air as a gas; avoid breathing this stinking
gas, for
it
6.
is
hurtful.
Add
zinc
until
Pewterer's Solder. 2, tin 3, lead 4 Tinner's fine solder, fusing point 340 Fahr., made
tin 2,
1, 1,
tin 3,
tin 4,
dissolve
spirits
it
,;
no more, the liquid is then called " killed add a wine glassful of rain water to it, bottle
it (if
from an alloy of
and lead
part,
and
tinner's
common
and lead
made of tin
up and label
poison. of sine
soldering articles
comes next on the list, and are the two solders usually denominated soft solders. As I shall
part,
I
whilst the
"killed
proceed,
when
so
I
and
alloys to be soldered
list,
with them,
will
Resin, or rosin
(or
" rozum," as
it
is
vulgarly
termed)
is
sticks of solder.
The
first
FIG.
I.
COPPER
FIG. 4.
WITH
FIG. 9.
BIT, ONE END FILED. FIG. COPPER BIT, TWO ENDS FILED. FIG. IRON SPLIT TO RECEIVE COPPER BIT. IRON" FORGED TO SHAPE. FIG. 5. IRON SHANK FITTED AND RIVETED TO COPPER BIT. FIG. SOLDERING IRON, HANDLE COMPLETE. FIG. CHISEL-SHAPED SOLDERING IRON. FIG. HATCHET-SHAPED SOLDERING IRON. IMPROVED SOLDERING TOOL. FIG. 10. SCRAPERS. FIG. II. STRIP OF SOFT SOLDER.
2.
3.
6.
7.
8.
it is
those
resin
made
known
as "compo."
above mentioned, the order should be, lead, tin, bismuth when all are melted together, the melted mass must be poured from the
;
first,
and when
;
this
is
in those
wooden
least a
Soft Solder.
This term
may be
said to cover at
form
it
into grains.
collected,
dozen different alloys of tin, lead, and bismuth, ranging in fusibility from a temperature of 200 3 Fahr.
when
the
metal
up
to
8oo Fahr.
The following list of very soft solders, is taken from Calvert's MeAlmanack for 1876. Bismuth Solders.
be poured, it is run into long semicylindrical moulds to form strips. A long groove in a flag stone, or an elder stick with the pith cleaned out,
is
fit
to
or half of
smeared with
for
soft
1.
a small iron gas-pipe with the inside tallow, will serve the purpose of moulds
solder.
When
poured
in
is
chinks between
apt to be mixed
2.
3.
3, tin 5,
2, tin 1,
1,
tin 2,
__
292
with grit. An old iron spoon will do as a ladle for small quantities, and a small crucible will serve the
42
purpose very
well,
WA YS AND MEANS.
but soft solders are best melted
in
is
said that
it
and long handles. Whatever is used, be sure that it is quite free from zinc, for this metal will ruin soft tinman's solders, and there are
tinmen who believe that even a smell of zinc will spoil a pound of solder. Soft solders may be easily melted in a ladle over the kitchen or any other fire, but some of the hard solders will require a crucible and a furnace. I have found those mentioned by Mr. Fletcher
be very handy little contrivances Hard solders refor the purpose where gas is burnt. quire to be granulated, and then crushed in a mortar
in
has been observed that trees in the peach gardens of France, grafted on plum stocks, ripen their fruit ten
New Mode
cleaned.
of Covering Floors.
:
A new and
is
The
floor
is
first
thoroughly
page
185, Vol.
I.,
to
The holes and cracks are then filled with paper putty, made by soaking newspapers in a paste made by thoroughly mixing wheat flour, ground alum,
and water, in the proportion of one pound of the first and a tablespoonful of the second to three quarts of
the third.
the metals.
Strips nine inches long are convenient lengths for
The
floor
is
the solder.
tin
inches deep
and 4 inches wide, will be handy to keep the tools in, and an old duster will serve the purpose of keeping them quiet, besides being useful for some other
operations.
will in
With a few articles and tools such as those, we commence a few lessons on soldering, to be given
next
article.
my
hardware paper is two layers are desired, a second covering of manilla paper is added. This is allowed to dry thoroughly. The manilla paper is then covered with paste, and a layer of wall paper of any style or design preferred is put on. When this is thoroughly dry, it is covered with two or more coats of sizing, made by dissolving half a pound of white glue in two quarts of hot water. After allowing this to dry, one coat of hard oil-finish varnish is given to the surface. The process is certainly inexpensive, and it is said to be durable. Besides taking the place of matting, carpet,
of manilla or
oil-cloth, or other like covering,
it
makes
Why
walls of
a stone house, and sometimes of a brick house, are covered with dampness. This is due to the very same cause by which dew is deposited on grasses, or moisture on the side of a glass or pitcher that
ice
is filled
with
water and
is
brought into a
warm room.
The
walls
become
cold,
and as stone
is
a non-conductor of
heat, they
remain cold for a long time. When the weather changes suddenly from cold to warm the air
any ordinary floor. Hanging Flower-Pots. A pretty little hanging flower-pot is easily made from a cocoa-nut shell. There are divisions in the shell, plainly marked by slight ridges which mark out its surface into three Burn a hole in each of these, about half equal parts. an inch from the edge, after sawing off the top. Fasten some copper wire of equal length into the holes, to Put some bits of afford the means of hanging it up. charcoal, or bits of broken flower-pot, at the bottom, and fill up with earth. Place some pieces of small Baskets ivy or creeping-jenny to trail over the sides. made in this manner afford ornamental additions to a
tight
;
and
it
can be washed
like
conservatory.
becomes filled with moisture, for the warmer the air is the more moisture it will absorb. When this warm air
from the
is deposited on it which is suddenly cooled by contact with the walls, and as the warm air is continually coming in contact with the walls, and as the warm air is continually in contact with the walls, the dampness accumulates until it appears like a dew upon them, and pours down
Saltpetring
of
Brickwork.
One
of the
great trials which the builder has to endure is the " salpetring " of the brickwork, or the white streaks
in streams at times.
It is easily
prevented.
No plaster
put on these.
in
the
ventilation in
weather.
which too often disfigure the fronts of brick buildings. It is worth noting that this can usually be prevented by adding oil to the mortar at the rate of a gallon to the cask of lime. Linseed oil is generally used, but any kind will do which does not contain salt. If cement is used in the mortar, an extra gallon of oil must be used for each cask of lime. When the incrustations have once formed on a building, they cannot be permanently removed, though they can be for a time by washing with hot water or the muriatic acid generally used for washing down brickwork.
NOTES ON NO VELTIES.
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
X
addition
pliances, I
to
from ^25
a
to ,39.
It is
difficult
in a
few lines
is
to give
all that
contained in
various
useful
tools
and apseveral
who
is
find
is
desirable to
do well to apply for the papers issued by Messrs. Marion and Co. with reference to the various kinds of
photographic apparatus that they keep.
Messrs.
my
readers.
Among
notice,
the
first
D.
H.
Cussons
and
Co.,
Manufacturing
be the "Descriptive and Illustrated Price List of Photographic Materials," issued by Messrs. W. W. Rouch & Co., 1S0, Strand. The price of this vadt mecurn
happens
to
and
at Sottthport, send
me
is
6d.,
and
it
all
amateurs
who
are interested
making
to
pictures
do well
buy
when
in use.
list of outfits and photographic requisites manuand sold by them. The price list is prefaced with "Notes for the Amateur and Tourist," and " Concise Instructions in the Use and Manipulation of Cusson and Co.'s Liverpool Bromo-Gelatine Dry Plates, the Liverpool Instan-' taneous Shutter, etc," which are brief, clear, and pertinent, and will be found useful. Messrs. Cussons and Co. supply four descriptions of outfits, namely the " Amateur's Set,"
a price
factured
Some
2
lbs.
idea of
its
portability
may be
for
only
^4
3$-
inches
ozs.,
and of that
for
more than 3 lbs. 6 ozs. form, with vertical swing to back, effected by a novel and
ingenious arrangement, costs, for the smaller size mentioned
(carte
de
ios.;
negatives 6| by 4I inches (cabinet size), at cj ios. ; and the "Military Officer's Set," for negatives 7^ by 4J inches,
at ,14 ios.
4s., the
double back
costs
for
2s.
and the double back to suit size, 1 7s. Side swings can be added to these cameras at an additional
17s. 6d.,
For extra fittings to these cameras and their and the prices of other materials and appliances, I must refer my readers to Messrs. Cussons and Co.'s price list, which will be forwarded to any applicant on receipt of
prices
It
may be
interesting
cost o{ \,
at
a cost of
16s.
to enable
my
readers to
know
that
Messrs.
" plates
when
be had
at
the latter.
Another speciality of Messrs. Rouch and Co. is the Tourist's Pocket Set, which combines every requisite for taking pictures out of doors, and is sold according to size of plates, For the at prices ranging from 11 5s. to ,21 10s. fittings comprised in this useful apparatus for dry plate work, and for a description of Rouch's New Universal Operating Box, and Rapid Gelatine Plates for studio and
landscape work, I must refer
itself.
W. F. Hamley and Co., 231, High Holborn, C, send me four catalogues namely, an "Illustrated Catalogue of Working Model Steam Engines (separate
IV,
parts),
terns
Scientific
my
list
Slides, etc.," a "Catalogue of Toys, Games, and Amusing Novelties," an " Illustrated Catalogue of Conjuring Tricks," and a " Price List of Tools and Materials for Buhl and Fretwork, Wood Carving, etc., FretSawing Machines, Turning Lathes, Amateurs' Tools, etc." Although the nature and character of each of these cata-
and
logues
Marion and Co., 22 and 23, Soho Square, London, W., send me their price list of appliances for photography. Some of the specialities of this firm have been mentioned by Mr. Archer Clarke in his paper on "Photography," in Part II of Amateur Work, and I need do no more here than call attention to "The
Messrs.
Beginner's, or
is to a certain extent described by its title, yet they must be carefully read and examined in order to get an idea of even a tenth of the various articles that are described in
them.
The
and
illustrations of just
upon 400
tricks
Student's
working
minimum
the
of cost,
by
is
wants. Many useful little appliances at low mentioned in the catalogue of tools. A separate " List of Fittings for Model Ships" is issued by this firm, from which amateur ship-builders can ascertain the price of
prices are
dry
plates
process
much more
any particular fitting that they may require. Amateurs who are thinking of adding a magic lantern
their stock of scientific apparatus
at
to
double
at
their
tained
firm
is
when travelling or on an excursion, and various chemicals, can be obequally low prices. Another speciality of this
slides,
the
new
so.
before
fail
doing
to
"New
Company,
is
26,
Colebrooke
prices
ranging
or
from
in
10
to
One
tures
of
is
its
chief merits
that
according
to
size
of plate,
sets
also
44
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
good point about these patterns
is
winter evenings or in the school-room for eductional purposes, the necessity for darkening the room,
is
altogether done
away
The
Sciopticon, indeed,
may
be,
in
or
weakening the
effect of
drawn with the view of avoiding weak points, a desideratum in all designs for work of this kind. A comprehensive catalogue of machines, tools, and appliances used by fretsawyers can be obtained from Messrs. Sanderson and Co., by forwarding a wrapper duly stamped and addressed. This price list contains a list of the fancy woods supplied by this
firm,
add
to
the but
exhibition,
often
had a bad
effect
on
children,
especially
young
children,
;
planed to a thickness ranging from \ inch to \ inch, at prices ranging from 5d. to Is. 6d. per square foot, according to material and
thickness.
who
when
were
the
nervous
and
timid
and,
to
magic
lantern
was used
Amateur
find
picture-frame
makers
will
illustrate
an invaluable addition
for
this
to their special
notes.
tools
work
in
the
" Registered
no child
darkened
be
of
frightened
the
room,
by the and no
Machine," invented and manufactured by Messrs. Booth Brothers, 63, Upper Stephen Street, Dublin, and
Mitre-Cutting
BOOTH
CORNER CRAMP.
and note-book.
The
in
by the inventors and makers, and dealers in wood-working tools The nature of and appliances throughout the kingdom. From a solid the machine may be seen from Fig. 1.
sold
by
all
wood,
is is
pair
bed A, which may be screwed down to a bench, in any convenient position, rises an equally solid frame B, the
sides of
\o
12s.
which in the interior, lettered c, c, are placed at an exact angle of 45 to the exterior
surface of the frame,
9 inches in height.
It
is
and serve
as a guide
many
readers of
which the
may,
moulding
knife D.
different
if
is
to
and
small engines, pumps, wood-working machinery, and other appliances for which special castlathes,
Each
direction,
ever they
Thus
ob-
in con-
tinuation of
is
a piece of iron, E,
which
which
works on a bolt
lever to
required,
on
to
is
attached.
the
The
knife itself
thick
double-
has submitted
me
both drawings
for
and
castings,
complete
small
checked by projections
the
in
G, G, at the
which he supplies at 12s. 6d. per set, and for a model vertical engine, 2 inches by 1 1 inches at 5s. 6d. per set. The castings, of course, are in the rough,
E.
When
in
moulding
the
is
pressed,
as
and
In
BOOTH
S MITRE-CUTTING MACHINE.
shown
illustration,
against
either side
of the frame, as
may be
the horizontal engine, the steam and exhaust ports are cast in the cylinder, thus saving a large amount of labour in
drilling
tools,
contact with
it,
necessary, and the knife brought in and driven through it by pressure at the
The
action of the
them
out,
risk
of
damage
to
way
and
injures the
wood,
it
gilt surface,
or composi-
such as breaking
H. Sanderson and Co., 7, East Road, Camsome excellent patterns for fret-work and scroll sawing, which are characterised by boldness and freedom of design, combined with lightness ol appearance. Another
Messrs. F.
bridge, send
as clean as if
pense altogether with the use of the saw, plane, mitre-box, and shooting-board in making his frames. The cost of a
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
machine
15s.,
45
for cutting
is
No
one
who
sees
it
can
un-
larger
machine
is
for
to be pleased with
it,
and
to
acknowledge
that
it is
of great
supis
The
knife
whose
visits to
far
between)
bench and
its
fittings,
and
who may
frame makers
cutting
the
mitre-
machine
is
described
above,
the Registered
Comer
be in every way
their bargain
satisfied
with
Cramp, invented, made, and sold by the same firm. The form of this cramp, and the way in which it is used are shown in Fig. 2. The ends of any two adjacent pieces of moulding that have been
cut
to
got
it.
STANDARD
INSTANTANEOUS
scribed as
composite bench,
in
GRIP VICE.
bed,
made
separate
pieces,
the
in
proper
angle
The
when put
and
that
machine are inserted between the fixed jaws of the comer cramp at A, A. They must be brought together in close contact, and care must be taken that they do not shift, while the pressure plate B is being brought firmly against them by
of
45
the
mitre-cutting
and
firm
is
in
any bench,
whatever
FIG
may be
it
its
on which
is
made.
put together,
the top, which
is
is
the ends of the pieces of moulding are held immovably together, and they may then be securely nailed together, and the pressure of the screw relaxed, and the cramp removed to be applied to the remaining corners of the frame in turn. The cramp is supplied in three sizes No. I,
made
No.
2, to
take 3
The is 6 feet by I foot 10 inches. " Standard " Instantaneous Grip Vice instead of a bench-screw, and a screw rising stop, which obviates all hammering from below, which is necessary in
any chance of warping,
fittings consist of the
FIG. 3.
inch mouldings, at
per pair
and No.
3, to take
mouldings, at
5s.
per pair.
A sample cramp,
The
is.
No.
I, is
of a pair of No. 2,
The screw top tend to damage the under side of the bench. can be easily regulated to any height required, and can be raised or lowered, as the case may be, to ^j inch above the
level of the
Amateur wood-workers who are in quest of a thoroughly good and useful carpenter's bench, of English make, will do
well to pay a
I,
bench
top.
The
12s.
smaller size
is
visit, if possible, to
Finsiurv
Street,
made, nominally for amateurs, of which the top is 4 feet 6 inches by 1 foot 6 inches, and sold with fittings, as
46
described above, for
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
3
3s.
It
is
better,
however, for
Vice
is
given in Fig.
5.
The
following description of
it
is
unless they
happen
extracted from
" Every
Man
His
to raise
an upright piece of wood On will be noticed to the right, perforated with holes to take a peg wherever it may be necessary to support a piece of board
examining the
illustration
one end of which is held in the grip vice. The space between this and the standard to the left can be partly filled with a one large one at the nest or small chest of five drawers bottom, and two tiers each containing two smaller drawers
necessary, the front jaw B the necessary must then place the piece of wood, or other material on which he is about to operate, between the jaws B and c, after which he must press the front jaw B nearly
may be
distance.
He
close to the
above.
These chests are 22 inches long by iS inches high, and 16 inches deep, and are supplied with the bench at a
If not required, the ledges within
wood, then press down the lever, when the To remove the piece of the vice.
lever as described above.
The
in the
On
"
the
marked
shown
in the inside
and
is
that lies
between the
being in
dard to the
left
can be utilised as supports for boards on tools can be laid when not in use.
D,
E,
row of V-shaped
its sides,
Another
bench
is
describe
it
at 3s.
This bench-
strip cut
At the end G
of the bar
F G,
which
under side
to
bench
and an arm or knife for holding the work firmly between itself and the bench stop, the arm being pushed and held against the work by the action of a small lever handle and cam attached to the upper surface of the bed-plate. This plate is only 9 inches by 3$ inches, and the
to receive them,
tween two curved flanges projecting from the under side of the plate, is a short cylinder which is grooved along part of
its
manner
plain,
remainder being
left
and
carrying a stop
or stud
which
is
shown
in the engraving,
is
only 2
lbs.
The
knife
works smoothly and easily on the surface of the bench-top, and never injures it by cutting into it as is frequently the
case with the ordinary bench-knife.
When
may
The
bench-knife
is
shown
in
bench-top to the right of the illustration, which fully explains its action, a piece of wood being shown on the benchtop, firmly held
it, the downward turn of the lever or handle brings the threads of th e male screw within the threads of the female screw, and draws the front jaw against the wood so tightly, and with so
itself
it
is
utterly impossible
it
to
is
show
raised
It is the drawing action of the screw that " Standard Instantaneous Grip Vice," by
wood
in front of the
bench
rail
to
though
material
swiftly,
is
immovable within
this
its
grasp.
:
The
it
principal
grips
of the vice
advantages of
relaxes
(2) that
bench-vice are
(1)
that
and
I3>,
inches;
may be
port from a peg thrust into any one of the holes, as the width
of
the board
may
is
require.
The
Fig.
(3)
that
it
effects a
saving of
the bench-stop
shown
in
The
stop itself
is
about 75 per cent, of the time employed in working the ordinary bench-vice by its easy action and certainty of its
grip
;
bench
in
(4) if
wood
wood
that
brought against
it
jaws
all possibility
;
it is
wood
at the top.
is let
The
and
It
removed
bench,
and
(5) that
can be
fitted to
any description of
is
at
into,
new
or old.
The
is
18s
or
if
supplied with
wood
it
As
the
works
of
in
in a projection at the
is
back of
screwed to a block
wood
The
If
Is.
2d.
any
and
that the
amateur prefers a bench-top made of beech instead of white deal, he must add from 12s. to 15s. to the cost of the bench
as given above.
By
wood
may be
further
An
illustration of the
utilised as a saw-vice.
AMATEURS IN
AMATEURS
IN COUNCIL.
COUNCIL.
manufacture and working
of those
47
lamps to an amateur. Clamond's lamp is described and illustrated in the " English Mechanic " for August 11, page 514. Politzbr writes in reply to Sufferer's query in Part 11 of Amateur Work, Illdstrated " There is no such thing as a selfacting battery; what he requires is an Electro Medical Coil. To the coil a battery cell or cells is c-omected in fact, the battery is to the coil what a boiler is to a steam-engine. I have a very goo coil with four different powers, which I can sell, complete, with handles and battery, for 30s., or I will
be outside the province of
1
[The Editor reserves ti himself the right ot refasiog 3. reply to any question that may be frivolous or inaDpropriai", or devoid of eeneral interest. Corresr>Dtidents are requested to bear in minrt ttiat i-ries will be answered only in the ni^es nf rhe K-ueizine. he information svijrht being- supplied, for the bene.it of i^s readers g-neraliy as well as for chose who have a special intere~tin btaining
-
it.
post-]
Electrical Matters.
CfriusTiTA? i. The only galvanic bittery capible of being applied to the human body direct is that known as
J
the above sums, the other half representing labour and profit, this last item the amateur can save by making the article himself. A similar and proportionate reduction may be effected by the same means on nearly all the other parts, and thus the amateur whose leisure is at present a drug and a source of discomfort to himself, may pleasantly and profitably employ his time. Mr. Dale is one of the fairest and b'-st traders I have ever dealt with, and you cannot do better *"ban to procure all necessary parts from him but if money is scarce with you, you can economise as above indicated, by making some <>f the parts yourself out of the crude
material.
made of coils of aTangvd alremately on strips of oxl, are fcept moist by acidulated flannel. I oald instruct you how to make a similar belt, but am not so sure that you would succeed with my instructions,
alternate links
wires,
number of
zinc
and copper
Elect bifi ed Lawyer. Another welcome critic. Your observations on Fig. 41 are
quite correct, and are in consonance with my own words in p. 453. switch in the kitchen would necessitate a separate wire to each bell; it is best, therefore, to have a switch near each bell to throw it in or out of circuit as required. Thinks for information on Guzzot's battery I will try it myself soon. Kindly let me know how you succeed with it. About two years since I went through a series of experiments having for their aim the providing a cheip, compact,
make a
five
coil
or six
how
to
make the
larger and
nor derive any benefit therefrom. Electrical currents are usually applied to the body through the medium of an induction coil. Such c >ils are not cheaply made, to be effective, but I shall have much pleasure in giving iustruitions for making one snch instructions, however, cannot be usefulcondensed into this column. Tour ler.t-rr appears to conceal your real wish. What do you hope or wish for from the application of electricity? State clearly your case in another letter, then it shiU receive my careful consideration, and I shall be most
;
Superintendent of the Public Baths, Dewsbury, he can be furnished with plain instructions and complete galvanic apparatus for the self-treatment and cure of his complaint, Sciatica.
happy to advise you. Amateur, EiT.L. I. Cutting Gas Carbon. Gas carbon can be cut with an old siw and a large expenditure of labour and patience. Fix the carbon in a vice, keep it moist with water, and stw away. Ton may use a str p of sheet-iron, or of iron hoop held in a frame like a hack-saw, or a revolving disc of tne same m-^tal, instead of a saw, ani in this ca ; e employ wet sand in the cut
a3 an auxiliary. It is a dirty jib, bat, if yo>i disregard the dirt and the labour, it is one well within the compass of aa amateur's
and powerful battery to meet the requirements of a conjuror. After trying many and various forms of dry batteries, we fell back on the old aud well-tried single fluid bichromate batrery, with an arrangement for throwing the zincs out of the solution when the battery was not at work. Where
expense is no object, Gaiffe's silver chloride battery is the be3t and most powerful of all dry forms of batteries. The cells are made of ebonite each cell may measure only 5 in. by 3 in. by 1 in and thus 10 cells mny be made up in a compact case measuring only 6in byf'in. by4in. The E.M.F. of each cell is about 1 2 volts, but the volume of current is small, and the charge is soon exhausted. Each eel contains a plate of silver as the negative element, on which is melted some chloride of silver in the condition known as t: horu silver," and a plate of zinc as the positive element, separated from the silver by a piece of flannel moistened with a solution of chloride of zinc. Mr. Dale has brought ont a new battery which, I thiuk, will suit your purpose. It also promises to supersede the Bunsen for the electric light.
; ,
Electro-Plating. We have no book at present on "Electro-Plating," but Mr. Edwinson's articles on this subject in Amateur Work, Illustrated, will put you in possession of all information you reT. A. C. (Stafford)
J.
Dale, or Messrs. J. & W. E. Archbutt, who both advertise iu this magazine, will supply
you with magnets, wires, etc. For a few stamps they will send you their illustrated
catalogues, which,
etc.,
Photographic Studio.
E. W. K. B. (G-een Lanrs, N.) The probable cost of a photographic studio, 18 feet by 8 feet, and 14 feet high, would be about 22 10s. The dimensions, however, that are named are far in excess of what is absolutely required, and are more suitable for a greenhouse. The calculation of the quantity of glass required is a very easy matter. We cannot undertake to work out arithmetical calculations of this nature for our readers
be forthcoming shortly, when th-i principles of their co straction will be tully described
i
Me in while, 1 may tell you is not required with them. X a'-WE3r.As breezy and sharp as a veritable nor'-wester, and argumentative withal but none the less welcome on that account in fact, I rather relish such criticism. Do not supp -se for one instant that I declaim against the prices charged for by shops. The workman is worthy of hi3 hire, aud the trad-sm-in deserves a fair prod: on the g ods he seils. When I said
and
ill
tstrated.
etc.
and r-port results shortly. Incandescent Lamp. (jftunhard-;. This correspondent desires information and illustrations of a new iucandescent lamp discover ed by Dr. Eegnard, in which air mixed with petroleum vapours is made to burn against a cage of platinum. I have as vague an idea as yourself respecting the
it,
I shad try
ing will appear in Vol. II. of this iyiayaziue. The first of the series is given in this Part. Instructions for French Polishing have already been given.
be seen that a fair price for a really good En^li=h-iuade bell of 2J inches in diameter is about 10s. but the amateur may be able to procure the various parts, and, by the aid of directions given him here, m *ke up a bell at about half this sum," it w*s not intended to imply that the son d be procured from any one shop, or that the i erfect parts should be bought at all. Taking Mr Dale's price-list as you have done, I find that he charges from 2s. 3d. or a te.k wood base and cover. Now the nood of thia article does not cost half
;
new lamp. Several similar lamps have been brought out since the electric light woke their inventors.
different parts of this
Attachment of Velvet. F. J. P. (Leifton^tone). For attaching velvet or cloth to wood, use moderately thin glue aud spread it thinly and evenly on the surface of the wood. If too much ia used it will make its way through the covering
material.
Hence we have Clamond's lamp, in which a mixture of gas and air is made to heat a cylinder of lime, and his more recent invention in which
W. H.
magnesium wire
is
made
to
burn in a cageor platinumby similar means. Then we have Lewis' incandescent gaslight, in which a mixture of gas and air id forced upon a gauge of platinum, and made to neat it to an incandescent condition. Platinum wires can be hid of Mr. Dale any size, from 2s. per dwt,, but I deem the
43
Fiddle-Making.
G. R. E. (West.Calder). Ton will find that pure alcohol will readily dissolve
asphalte.
J- V. (Dublin). Tou are to be congratulated on your success, which, it is gratifying to learn, you attribute to Amateur Work,
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL,
Tool Dealers in Manchester and
Liverpool. M. B. can obtain what he wants in Manchester from J. Gleave, Oldham Street, who has the special advantage to me that he has for thirty years past warranted every tool I have ever bought from him, or exchanged or made good any and every faulty tool without a sign of objection and with evidently the most perfect good will. Another good dealer is W. E. Keyte, Deavsgate. In Liverpool, Mathieson & Co., Church Street, keep a large selection. No doubt there are many more, but the shops mentioned are those I
Harmonium.
E. J. F. (Dalston). Pedals can be attached to a harmonium by making tbe pedal depress the end of a backfall under the instrument, and so pushing up a sticker connected witn the other end in the same way as described for organ-key action. This sticker passes up the back and pushes up the end of a backfall placed over the keys, the other end of the backfall being made to press on the key. Join the two feeders together by a rod and connect that to the blowing handle, and you will then be able to work both feeders at once. W. H. (Liverpool). There is a very portable harmonium sold by Metzler & Co., which, I think, would suit you. But a com pass of 3 octaves is not much use. If that is all you require why not have a flutiua, or an accordion, on a stand? Every manufacturer has his own method of making tbe various parts of an organ. E. E. B. (Liverpool). If you set out the scale by the rules given in " Amateurs in Counc 1," you will fiud that the J8th note, and not the octave, is the half size. This method is more direct and easier to set out than that of the author you mention. Different scales must not be used for the same stop, but different stops should vary in their
Illustrated.
Tn the present volume a Supplement will be given with Working Drawings of every part of a full-sized
violin.
of
named
in a
late
issue
of
Amateur. Work, Illustrated. Any yellow gum (say gamboge) or saffroo, may be used
for the yellow sizing.
know
as satisfactory.
P.
of
R..
D. (Fakenham)
English equivalents
Graph Composition.
French measures are generally given. The reduction however of French to English is a simple arithmetical process, which it would
recipe : " Soak best amber gelatine (from any grocer) in water for eight or nine hours until quite soft and slightly sticky, drain
be out of place to describe in these pages. C.G. (Clayton). Tour idea for bending the ribs of a violin by steam and moulds, would certainly be practicable for very rough made violins, but ribs so bent would never last, and would be constantly altering. With handsomely curled wood, even if it were possible to produce the bend, the rib3 thus bent would be chronically " cockled " in spite of any amount of scraping. I hope
none of
my
readers
who
are
making
violins
scientifically will
trouble or expense.
span of
life is
score years,
more than four times four and we do not wish to make in-
this system
on by Goy, Leadcnhall Street, London, E.C., on monthly payments not exceeding twelve in number, and that J. H. Makin, Sltcjfield, also supplies them on easy terms. He should send to both for price
ton) , writes to say that lathes are supplied
lists.
the excess of water off, and then melt with a gentle heat. When fully melted add for every pound of gelatine 5 pounds of common thick glycerine and stir well together. If too hard in cold weather, add a little water when melted and if too soft in very hot weather, heat it until a little of the water is driven off. Wa-h the writing off with hot water and a sponge." E. S. (Nottingham) sends the following recipe for the information of M. B. (Southport). Steep 2 ounces of Eussian glue in 4 oiinces of cold water until absorbed, then put it over a fire, and when melted add 8 ounces of glycerine and 5 drops of carbolic acid, mix with Paris whiting until it is of the thickness of cream. Then pour it out and let it set. Do not let it boil when on the fire. For ink, melt a penny packet of Judsou's Purple Dye in two tablespoonfuls of hot water. Gemarst also sends us a recipe for graph composition, which is hereby acknowledged. It is similar in every respect to the preceding rceipe sent by E. S. (Nottingham), and it is therefore unnecessary to give it.
;
The second and concluding article on the method to be followed in building a harmonium was given in Part 11.
Modelling.
(Armagh). Devonshire china-clay, or any pure and freely-working clay is suited for modelling. The instructions desired cannot be given in a paragraph. Papers on " Artistic Modelling" are about to appear, in which S. C. will find the information he seeks. You ask me to "explain a little about the lights and shadows, and by what means to see them." Put any plaster cast in a strong light, and you cannot fail to understand what is meant; the lights are those parts of the cast on which the light immediately falls, and which are, therefore, the shadows are those fully illuminated parts which are not exposed to the quarter from which the light proceeds, and which, being less illuminated, assume a darker hue.
S. C.
j
Lathe-Work.
Colchester,
J. T.
they "are
williug to supply lathes on easy terms of payment to all who can give good references
querist to purchase "The Metal Turner's Handbook," price Is., which contains illustrations
learn
of
or security."
From the tarticulars of these, J. T. T. would much useful information. The lathe-
will
be continued,
bed sketched would be very satisfactory. It would cost more than a solid cast-iron bed. A plain wooden bed would answer the purpose as well as the one sketched. A 5 inch single speed lathe would probably be preferable.
Piotection of Houses.
E. H. H. (ilortlake). The writer of the
opportunity will be taken to give instructions on work of this nature, as well as other branches of metal-working and the ornamentation of metals.
If J. T. T. lives near, let him call at the Polytechnic Institute, Regent Street, workshop there. the and see E. G- Hild^r. -Please state what informa-
The process tion on polishing you wish. and materials are different for various Bubstances.
papers on "Electric Bells" will, at some future time, give instructions for the arrangement of wires so as to afford due Our notice that burglars are at work. correspondent asks for " an article on * House Fortifying' against the burglar and his arts." He further writes: "Can you tell me any way of making old carpet into simple oilcloth, or suggest any other
wsy
of utilising it."
Repairing Kitchen Boiler R. S. E. (Kilkenny). Tour kitchen boiler forms part, I presume, of your kitchen range. Jt is made of cast iron, and it is not possible to repair it. The crack will gradually extend further and further, and your best and only remedy is to get on ironmonger to supply you with a new boiler, which he will be able to do without doubt if he can ascertain who is the mak-. r of the range.
for Veneering. T. J. W. {Bryanston Street, W.) Write to, or call upon, Mr. Thos. Syer, jun., 1, Finsbury Street, Chi&eell Street, E.C. He will, in all probability, be ab'e to supply you with what, you want, or, if he cannot, he will put you in the way of getting it. Neither of the firms you mention keep veneering, they only supply wood for fret-cutting. A sketch for a child's cot, ornamented with fretwork, shall be given at some future time.
Wood
this Part is presented an EIGHT PAGE SUPPLEMENT, comprising TITLE PAGE and INDEX
%* With
additional
to
VOLUME
I.
of
AMATEUR WORK,
This has unavoidably compelled the Postponement of Supplement clearing up Arrears of Replies to Correspondents, to Part 13.
ILLUSTRATED.
SUN-DIALS
SUN-DIALS AND DIALLING.
By
II. HINTS
AND
DIALLING.
laid to our account).
4y
" Ulti-
ARTHUR TORKE.
mam
bile
away).
But
MENTAL
DIALS,
8,
|HE
loiterer,
The
|
in plaster.
on the front of an Elizabethan manor-house in Warwickshire, is in very low relief in pargetting-work, that is,
humorous than practical motto which said to the " Begone about your business." Sometimes, too, a couplet was employed, as in the following quaint and devout example
:
"Yield thou to God thy heart, thy time, thy gold, The day fast weareth, and the years wax old."
One
in
I
it
has
be
caned
but
been assumed
that the aspect
stone,
have duced
it
introit
in this
or
at
place because
least that
the
appears
a
to
me
be
in
thing
to
if
calculated
effective
simply painted
black on a
wall.
This been
torily
having
satisfac-
ascer-
The
out-
line should
be
boldly
out,
little
made
shading
readily be
traced
and the
and
in
its
drawn
place
aid
necessary, in-
dicated
by a
by the of plummet
level.
and
But
From
tion,
associa-
supposing that
the wall does
perhaps,
Elizabe-
the
than style
seems
peculiarly suited to
any
that
terial
point,
its
is
or
manot
the adornment
suitable for
painting upon;
or,
FIG. 8.
of
sun-dials
and the
touche
car-
even sup-
form,
on which the
ELIZABETHAN
to carry
on his
work
find
in
it
with greater
will
be noticed that
a motto
" Orimur,
Morimur" (We
practice.
are
bom, we
is
die).
The
application of mottoes to
dials
praiseworthy
Many
which he can
The
its
terseness, always
been the favourite vehicle for these things. Here are a few examples, gathered from old dials. " Noli contidere
As a good, cheap, and enduring substance on to paint, and one on which any amount of colour and gilding may well be employed, zinc may be mentioned. Whether much gay colour and gold
which
" Umbra nodi" (Trust not to the night). sumus" (We are a shadow). "Lex Dei lux diei"
orate "
light of day).
Vigilate et
good taste is a question for indiThere are good old examples in One might be quoted in favour of such decoration. which a mediaeval ship an emblem of the course of C
about a dial are
in
vidual opinion.
5
time
its
SUN-DIALS
AND
DIALLING.
The most
is
is
made
is
to
mast
the meridian,
if
do service as the base of the dial, and its ropes form the hour-
lines.
Indeed,
may be found in abundance. To come to more practical matters, however, it will be advisable to let the colour
interfere with the hour-lines as little as possible.
If
is
stile
much
than
it
purpose ornament.
original
of the dial
sacrificed
to
mere
for paint-
usual and appropriate place for a horiupon the top of a pedestal on a lawn, or Thus the dial itself cannot be a conin a garden. spicuous object, however much the pedestal may be so. It is indeed scarcely seen except by those who examine it to learn the time. To make it the subject of elaborate ornamentation would therefore be absurd, and the diallist who has to decide on the material from which to make it, will not have to consider what will best bear decoration, but simply what will practically be the most suitable. A strong material will be necessary, for the posizontal dial
tion of a horizontal dial is a trying one, both as regards exposure to accidents and the weather. In spite of warnings to the contrary, garden tools are sure
to
a slab of
slate.
Slate
may be
gritted
down
even surface in the same way as freestone, and afterwards still farther smoothed by rubbing
to a good,
with pumice-stone.
In fact
it
is
a freestone.
left
It
may
it.
Being within
be treated as such
natural colour,
this case,
its
face
generally
of the
will
now and
and lines and numerals incised. In on the dark-coloured ground, gold tells best for picking-out the incisions. For this, as for every other kind of out-door gilding, oil-size must, of course, be used the lines and letters having previously
;
hard knocks. As it will lie shower will wet it, and the water which it receives will not readily run off. The vertical dial can be, to some extent sheltered, or, at the worst, will throw off the
rain
not so
this.
No
painted
received a coat of japan-size, and then one of chromeyellow paint. dial made of thin material, such as
and
rain hold
angle,
packed to any required and one side brought farther forward than the other by fixing a wedge of wood or stone behind it. If under the same necessity for bringing the dial
is
puddles of water, which would soon tend to destroy the stone. If the diallist wishes his work to stand, he
used to
work upon, the simplest way is to bring it to the required angle by cutting it wedge-shape but on a block of good stone I imagine that no diallist will care to paint, but will rather incise and black his letters. Wood, from its liability to warp and decay, can scarcely be called a good material for the diallist. Yet against one of my buildings is a dial painted on a slab of oak which bears the date 1834. It recently came into my possession, and when I fixed it in its
;
must be careful in his choice. For these reasons metal is almost always employed, and generally brass. The diallist unaccustomed to work in metals, need not be afraid of this material. If he gets a brass plate and a graver, which
latter
will
cost about
it
sixpence,
he
will,
if
used to
handling
looks
as
tools, find
and decision. The task much more formidable than it really is. Hard the metal may seem, it yields to a properly tempered
tool.
plate of copper,
which
is
found the wood perfectly sound and good. It had been well coated with white-lead paint, which is undoubtedly the best preservative in common
present position
I
woodwork exposed to the weather. This dial proves that, in the absence of better materials, a sound
use for
piece of oak
diallist,
may
be
made
to serve the
purpose of the
it
stand well and be uninjured by weather, if the amateur possesses the tools and skill to cut it. More available and practicable, however, is a slab of slale not less than half an inch thick this is easily to be got, stands weather well, and may readily be incised.
will
;
will at least
is
own
lifetime.
The well-balanced arrangement of the south dial makes it easy of being rendered ornamental, but the lop-sided figures of the east and west dials causes them to be much less susceptible of artistic treatment.
In Fig. 9, however, I give a suggestion for the ornamentation of an east dial. As an appropriate emblem
of day the sunflower
is
nothing that could not easily be engraved by any one on copper or slate.
How
more doubtful. Pedestals for dials are most commonly made of stone (in a style more or less following the Italian, see Fig. 13), and comfessional help
introduced.
This design
in
is
Many who
are perfectly at
home
awe
I
in
work-
intended to
colours.
be
illuminated
on
zinc,
gold
and
at stone,
well re-
SUN-DIALS
member having
when
I
AND
DIALLING.
Si
this feeling
myself
I
in early life
and
was surprised
to find
may be as pleasing to the eye, if less endurthan one of stone. Merely the stump of a tree, twined round with creepers, will in many situations
pedestal
ing,
look well
I
when applied
to this purpose.
In Fig.
1 1,
There is nothing in working a pedestal in freestone which need alarm any ingenious person. Unlike wood-carving, stone-caning demands no considerable outlay on tools. I remember, years ago,
the
for
amateur
Its
and
carpenter.
is
stands pre-eminent
among English
;
construction
explained by
stone-carvers, talking on this subject, said to me, " One can't have too many tools for wood-carving
can carve
it
This,
if
not
literally true,
with bark
fact
correctly.
Few and
simple
diameter
lengths,
centres,
FIG.
Larch is the wood to be preferred, sides of the larger. both for appearance and durability. The base and top are of stout plank, over which are nailed strips of rough wood. The kind of "dog's-tooth" ornament
running up the hollows, is formed merely of fir-cones, fastened with brads to the woodwork. A horizontal dial is, it should be remembered, much more easily seen and consulted if kept well
It is
a frequent mistake to
make
3
ft.
the
in.
About
a good height. The combination dial (Fig. 13) is not unfrequently to be seen, mounted on an ancient stone shaft, in a
country churchyard.
With
tell
the horizontal,
it
comit
;
and west,
vertical dials.
The
is
told
by the
first,
but they
readily
and a
its
FIG.
II.
RUSTIC
;
and
wood
right
by
exposed
than
re-grinding.
When
weather
and
still
less
when
stand
soft
partly buried in
well.
few kinds of
Caen,
Indeed,
the
best
of
all
is
weather
which
is
not bear
is
frost.
ORNAMENTAL GNOMON.
that of a vertical one
line in
;
Among
which
same time will bear a reasonable amount of exposure, and admit of easy, if not of very elaborate
at the
the
stile is
must be taken
horizontal
object,
dial,
carving.
It will Its
the
gnomon
is
a conspicuous
purpose.
is.
cost, in
London
stone-yards,
about
Except
a rustic wooden
and is therefore a fit subject for ornament. Both strength and decoration can be got in cast brass. The diallist can cut a wooden pattern to any
52
design that he pleases,
SUN-DIALS
in the
AND
DIALLING.
the day
is fixed.
when
the dial
and place
cast.
hands of a brassfounder to be
it
The
usual charge
brass
is
which
it
for
casting
place
sun-dials,
scarcely
seems
neces-
cooling,
An
is
ornamental gnomon
in Fig. 14.
should be one on which no trees or buildings can throw shadows which will interfere with the working of the dial.
site
shown
If the
In other respects
is
much
situation
will
whether on a horizontal
or vertical dial, a
cient
suffi-
gnomon may be
of sheet
mounted
made
copper,
FIG. IO.
DESIGN
on a carefully or elaboshaped stone rately pedestal, never looks so well as when occupying a small bed in the centre
on a lump of lead or a crosscut block of hard wood, and can afterwards be neatly
chisel, if laid
and
of a geometrical flower garden, laid out in formal knots and paths. Such a garden, in fact, never looks complete without its
central sun-dial.
finished with a
file.
all
kinds,
much
instance,
In a garden arranged more in natural style, as for where we have an irregularly-shaped lawn,
perfectly
fiat,
broken
and
level,
should
or,
be
CONFIDERE
places
upon in by trees or
shrubs, a horizontal
dial will look
in
more
the
rustic pedestal as
apparently
matters,
slight
otherwise
by on
goes
effect
far
towards creating a
general
of
good
In
taste.
but before
fixing
upon
one
and
to
make due
the
if
or
two
it
practica
allowance for
difference,
cons iderations
which
well
FIG. 9.
any,
will
be
in
first
to
bear
DESIGN
mind.
In the
SUN-DIALS
place,
it
AND
to
DIALLING.
53
be desirable to set the dial high enough, be out of harm's way and easily seen. In the second place, to secure, if possible, a wall duly If this is not done facing one of the cardinal points. in working out either involved, will be extra labour
will
later.
that
it
may
In any case, the use of the instrument appears have travelled, and travelled slowly, from the East to the West.
first dial seen in Rome is said to have been up on the Temple of Quirinus, 293 B.C., at which period the present division of the day into hours was
The
set
the problem of a
more elaborate
dial, or in
the
me-
of giving one side of the simple dial the projection necessary to make it face the required
chanical
point
either
toil
Somewhat further on, in the days of the Emperors, sun-dials became so much the fashion in
adopted.
the Imperial City
that
and
case
in
the
no
public
effect,
aestheti-
building
without one.
was
In
cally
will
considered,
not
be
so
good.
be
used
on
churches, and
own
part
I
thenceforward
they were to be
that for
my
rather
regard
seen
throughout
sun-dial as a thing
for
the
contemfriends
plation of myself
and
my
they
modern times by
clocks.
Perhaps
the
most
startling
in
and stood
in
production
dialling is to
the market-place,
be
found
in
our In-
In
by the noisy
clock.
This old-
now
to
mark our
of
quiet
and 104
sub-stile.
hours
the
The edge
of the
from
my garden
or pri-
my
street front.
feel
may
who
built
it
with the
it
something of the antiquity of this time-honoured invention. According to the received Scripture chronology, the dial of Ahaz, mentioned in Isaiah, and which, by the bye, appears to have been divided into degrees not hours, must have been set up about 750 years before Christ. Pliny, however, ascribes the rrgin of the dial to Anaximander, some 200 years
and size only, be taken into account. And here I must bring my remarks on sundials, and the methods of making them and placing them in position, to a close, merely adding that I shall be happy to explain any point which may not be quite clear, through the medium of "Amateurs in Council."
certainly merited,
54
{For Illustrations,
see the
Supplement
to this Part.)
something larger, he has only to decide upon the and enlarge according to scale in the ordinary manner. The amateur must first peruse the construction until he has the result in "his mind's eye," he must then decide as to what kind of wood he any hard and clean cutting wood can is going to use
for
exact size
EFORE
be selected, but I should advise white holly, chestnut, or sycamore, as these have a delicate appearance, and
contrast well with the coloured glasses
and
flowers.
that
fret-cutter
must
who possess only the average capacity of mechanical ingenuity, as tolerably pleasing results
may be
very
little
articles
made
with
little
and
at
be cut, remembering that the slots must be made one from the top down to centre, other from base up to centre. Care should be taken that these pieces be fitted at right angles in order to admit the segments c.
pared with their intrinsic value. I am, of course, not speaking of productions of mere children, but of those of a fair age and of mediocre ability. To view fret-cutting as a means of livelihood would be some-
The segments
G,
made along
glue.
the plain
what a precarious, and certainly a fatiguing one, but to those who do it for pleasure there should be this object in view when selecting a pattern to combine
strict
ornamentation
with
utility.
What more
gratifying
heard your
in the
(to them unknown) production spoken of most eulogistic manner, that it is your own handiwork ? And, further, what an inward satisfaction it must be to know that you have achieved something which, probably very many others have been afraid of
round.
If the
attempting.
not at
first
be too aspiring,
or he will unquestionably
and spend
his
come money
degree compensated. First, he should try a small pattern in which there are some bold curves and points, the latter, although very pretty, are difficult to
execute properly
that
A
is,
to leave
a sharp, finished
work
The
this piece turned for a very little Perhaps the arms H had better next be treated with; four of these are fitted into | in. collars I, which have each a in. hole fitting over the perpendicular F, there are two collars to ensure so as to turn thereon and accelerate an easy rotary movement. The crosspieces of H, when fitted, form a support for a little glass dish (in which the flowers are placed) 25 in. by these may be obtained at any good i in. deep earthenware shop. To complete the height of orna-
cost.
much,
;
if
something of a should be occasionally patronized, wherein right angles are plentiful, because, if a person can fit a right angle property, he may consider himself competent to undertake the erection of any ordinary
fretting
rectilineal nature
ment, the hexagon K must be dealt with; before fitting, however, a glass must be obtained, it need not necessarily be hexagonal, only if round or square the number of pieces must be decided upon, and the collars
used accordingly. Supposing the amateur to follow the design, he must cut six pieces and connect them at the
top by collar
L,
and
at \ in. from,
and
at the
extremity
article.
by
description
collars M,
1 in. full
;
hole admitting"
is
Referring to the
the design offered to
of the epergne,
is
M
D
the other
secured
my
readers
drawn
full size,
by a
little
it,
and
i.e.,
all
The
;
through
fitted
To
total height
17^ in. by 13^ in. diameter of base, supposing the epergne to be cut out of \ in. wood
upon
lines
if
most probably an unsteady base and oscillatory motion would be the result, especially when the arms are in motion. If the amateur, however, wishes
thinner,
arranged
to
XIII.
OF
Miiiiatiirt Stotcft,
shaving (roughly)
asf*ct f
Ornament
:c/lc/ /
K Cut
i
rij
-I
ibwc
i
to f-rih
'
UoxogonToi)
IriiriPiK-nl.
FANCY EBERGNE,"
FOE,
ED. LAKER.
L. nn.i about
PRINTING FOR AMATEURS.
E,
55
a thorough understanding of reading, spelling, punctuation, and the correct use of words and phrases.
shown
in Fig. b.
whether he prefers to fill in details, such as a touch or two of gilt, etc., upon the birds; but he might with all propriety
In conclusion,
it
Not one in ten of those supposed to be well educated can punctuate properly. All these things become second nature to users of type and presses. Habits
'
'
'
home
useful
mark
and birds
in
with a fine
line,
become more
attractive
than ever.
art will
be acquired, which
them
may
afterwards occupy."
To
in his
this
may be added
power
at
acquires the
to use type
value,
I. -INTRODUCTORY. DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESSES OF COMPOSING AND PRINTING,
now
that private
MATEUR
terested
way into many business houses. The various ways in which printing may be made both pleasurable and profitable are described in a
their
little
in-
printing,
seeing
that
our
of
its
could
In
instructions to
its
its
army
Machines, which have been mentioned in the advertisAny reader can procure
aid.
explanation of the then wonderful fact, that Faust produced numbers of beautifully " written " books all exactly alike. Kow-a-days the cheap press has so diffused light on this (as on every other subject), that all are more or less aware that printed newspapers and books are produced by means of types and a machine called a printing-press. The questions that have appeared from time to time in these pages amply prove that some of its readers are anxious to know n ore than they do at present of this most interesting art and the object of these papers will be to convey in the simplest language possible a know;
one by enclosing a stamp, with name and address, to the Birmingham Machinists' Company, Great Queen Street Works, Birmingham. Ask for full amateur
catalogue.
It will
clear the
way
for the
will
idea of what
required to be done.
shape of the
letters
(which
may be
so alike in both
mode
in
which
the copies of an original are taken. " Printing" may be defined as " the art of multiplying fac-simile copies
of an original."
types,
writings, dies,
ledge of the details of the various materials and processes used in producing printed sheets, which,
intelligently followed,
"
if
The originals are generally metal wood engravings, metal plates engraved, paper
and
stone.
we
The
trust will
are taken are various, paper being by far the most generally employed.
to
Make those now print who never did before, And those who always printed, print the more."
I
Before
business,
How
to
do
it "
part of the
we would
wards
i.e.,
this last,
we presume,
and
to
We purpose confining our attention termed relief printing i.e., printing from surfaces, which have the lines which are to appear in the printed copies standing higher than the body of the material, which has been cut away or otherwise reduced below the general level. This branch of the art is called typography, and includes printing from
what
is
;
The
third,
my mind
is the educational value of the This value arises not so much from the information which is imparted when " setting copy," but from the habits of regularity and order which are
factor in
the case,
occupation.
wood engravings. Copperplate work and lithography come under a In this distinct branch, known as surface printing. process the lines which appear and the body are
practically all
In litho-
imparted while following out the various operations I shall shortly describe. A paragraph from a pamphlet in the writer's possession well puts it thus
:
graphy, the lines are formed in greasy ink, on a water-absorbing or retaining surface, which keeps the
ink-rollers
and
in plate
"
The groundwork
of a
in
enough
when
56
the entire plate
is
wiped clear of ink previously deTaper laid on this plate quickly absorbs ink from the slight depressions, the exquisite delicacy of which has given birth
to
and he will be convinced of the need for some mechanical means of effecting this apparently simple and important operation but important it is, and he who keeps this well in mind has gone far
;
the
copperplate."
is
The
Almost and how to use it but advanced typographers must pardon me if I stay a moment to illustrate our subject by its means, for the benefit of the novice. The letters and design (reversed) are formed with their faces all in one plane, or on a level, the parts between being sunk below the common level. The stamp is charged with colouring matter, either by pressing the stamp down upon a pad of colour, or by passing an
the
now common
towards conquering the little difficulties which lie between common rough and artistic fine printing. We have now to consider how the single tiny
metal
letters
is,
now
Each
letter of this
page
on a separate
make up
The
at the
end of a
up
which
ink-roller across
its
face.
If
now
the stamp
is
pressed
surface,
end with
space
evenly upon a
fiat
similar blanks.
is
If more
at
once
than
obtained
the
design
and
of the letters,
is
page, from
left
to
obtained.
The
is
thin line at
to bear in
the
be printed from. The simple rubber stamp is a small page of type, just
as our amateurs will by and
and between the formed by a thin strip of brass, so that the two columns are mechanically separated from each other by
top
columns
line.
The Ama-
COMPOSITOR
picked up
letter
by
letter,
and
the operation
is
not conducted
AND
stamp fashion, by pressing the letters first on a pad, and then on paper, but the types are fixed on a fiat table, and inked by rollers. The sheet is then pressed upon the types with a powerful and even pressure. The
mechanical arrangements for bringing the sheet in contact with the type are such as to insure each sheet being laid in exactly the same position as the preceding one and this explains how the even margin round properly-printed pages is obtained. The same
;
blank spaces.
Having now an idea of what has to be done to prepare a page of type for printing, we must see what
vast
arrangements are made for handily manipulating the number of tiny metal letters which we have been speaking of. The accompanying engraving (Fig. i)
shows
compositor
at
work,
standing before a
it.
The
principle
is
used
in
causing
many
colours on one
in
them as there
sheet to
fall
Let
place,
an amateur attempt
so as to
once, leaving
same
are letters in the alphabet, stops, figures, etc. ; in short, a distinct box is, generally speaking, devoted
holding one particular letter or character. These boxes are not lettered, numbered, or marked, but, by
to
PMXTING FOR AMATEURS.
use, the operator's
57
hand
as fast as his
mind
word being formed. I do not stay to consider just now the manner in which the letters are disposed, so as to be most convenient to the hand, as that will be done further on but reverting to the picture of the
;
is called, you will observe that his hands are both over the cases or trays of boxes in the left hand he holds a small frame or tray, which is of a length corresponding to the width of the page or column of type to be set. The little frame is closed in on three sides,and left open on the fourth side holding this with his thumb inside the frame, he picks up letter by letter, and arranges them in a row along the back of the
"compositor," as he
is needful, for it is clear that however perfect the arrangement for laying the sheet always in one place, the effect would be entirely lost if the forme were allowed to move from its first position on the bed. Amateurs who are anxious to try their hands at printing, and wish to make a press for themselves before my instructions for doing so are published, will do well to keep these points in mind, or disappointment will end their labours in disgust instead of going on from strength to strength till they can exhibit specimens ot their handiwork, which would not only bear favourable comparison with, but actually surpass, much of the ordinary commercial work of professional printers. The forme being now fixed on the carriage, or bed
frame, the
it is
thumb holding
is
of the press,
sheet
is
formed.
laid
is inked evenly with a hand roller, a on the hinged frame, lowered on the type,
the frame
to wait additions
completed.
lifted
The
and an iron
all
and wedges of wood are then put between the sides of the iron and the type, and wedged against each other in such a way that the two sides of the page are tightly pressed toward each other, and the top and bottom are in like manner compressed. If this has been done properly, and the lines are all of the same length, the whole of this page indeed, the whole side of a large newspaper becomes so solid, that the frame may be lifted up, and
placed over the page
;
strips
and an impression taken. This impression serves to show if all the letters are and now errors of all kinds can in the right position be detected and remedied. If wrong letters are discerned, the wedges inside the frame are to be loosened all other defects are and right ones substituted attended to at this stage, and the types again locked If now, when impressions are up by the wedges. pulled at the press, some letters do not show clearly, pieces of paper are pasted on the hinged flap or frame, just where the faint places occur, and this brings all up to one level, and one colour of ink and general
; ;
appearance.
Thus far there is room for much skill and though the printing of the copies is much simpler, yet it must not be conducted careThe inking must be even and not too thickly lessly. put on dust and dirt must be avoided, or the o's and The amount e's will be blind, and the whole smudgy. of pressure, too, must be adjusted, so as to give a full
and
discretion,
;
and yet not be so heavy as the copies are all worked off, the types are washed with a strong ley to remove the ink, and then copiously flooded with water to remove every trace of the alkali. The forme is now carried back to the flat surface, the wedges loosened and the iron frame removed. The lines of type are then spelt back into the boxes in the cases, ready to begin the operation of setting up or composing fresh
clear face to the printing,
to indent the paper.
When
matter.
imagined than described. It will be understood that the frame and wood wedges are all lower than the type, so that the roller in passing over the type does not ink them, and in like manner the sheet when pressed on the types only takes the impression of everything which stands level
with the face of the letters. the press
is
The above
is
intended to prepare the beginner by showing him the end and object to be aimed at all through, so that the
exact details will not
formalities, but the
our case, the acquirement, through love of the pursuit, skill which every one must possess
laid
who wishes
to
become an accomplished
are used to
typographer.
This
That proficiency
may be
C
2
58
VIOLIN-MAKING AS IT WAS,
: I
AND
IS.
all
intend
stringed instruments
by descriptions and
illustrations,
wherever
needed,
to say
all the regular articles used in the trade, and where they may be bought, if required. The descriptions will be close enough to enable amateurs Hometo make for themselves any thing they want. made substitutes to meet the demands of the most modest and economical will be considered. The various amateur machines which have been, and are now made and sold, will be described and illustrated, while our own readers shall be supplied with working drawings and descriptions of both cheap and good cylinder and platen presses, although many will doubtless prefer purchasing one of the beautiful modern self-inking presses now made and sold at such a cheap rate. It is a remarkable fact that during the last five years amateur printing has made such advances in England, that two large firms at least are now supplying machinery and material of all kinds freely to acknowledged amateurs, so that the needless obstructionist tactics of the regular typefounders need no longer deter the intending amateur printer from
capable of producing, and would, in fact, without this magic wand at whose touch the marvellous powers
of the fiddle are called into being, "
become
as the
sounding guitar and tinkling banjo," and cease to merit the charming comparison drawn in Macheath's
song
in
'
'
"
:
When
The
the heart of a
man
is
mist
is
dispelled
if it is difficult
it
is
more
so to
and
and sculptures of the present day do not pay much attention to the execution of
accurate, yet
different
much
As
less, therefore,
entering the
lists
who
poor
centuries to be
to
;
depended upon.
the
used
to
who invented
discuss
the place to
in fact, the
amateur appealed to Mr. Printer to oblige him with a little ink, he was either refused point blank, or else obliged with ink that deterred him from pursuing the subject further. If a few letters were required, the old worn-out founts of the office were placed at his disposal by our jealous friend, who could then triumphantly exhibit his proofs
head
in
Chapter
I.
Of course we cannot
Milan
take as
who
in his
Musico
Tcstore, published at
in 1706,
from newest
faces,
and
Now
all
is
my
next paper
metal
and wood
to
letters as sold;
make
substitutes at
and
will further
prima che lo suonase come si costuma oggidi." most probable, however, that the orientals were the first to use the bow, as seen in its primitive form (Figs, in, 112), which has continued among them even to the present day as they were, in the opinion of M. Fetis set forth further on, the first to improve it by the addition of the nut. As to when and where the actual word " bow," or its foreign equivalent, was first used, opinions have differed, though it seems to me abso:
easily-procured materials.
it
is
(To be continued.)
= bow,
derive
VIOLIN-MAKING
By
E.
AS
IT
WAS, AND
IS.
HERON-ALLEN.
THE BOW!
ITS
^iThas
of the violin
of the bow,
and
bow
so called) cannot exist. Without it the would cease to express every human emotion, would cease to produce the continuous flow of melody
fiddle
it from the Greek apx' = dominion, from the dominion which it exercises over the violin, which seems to me to be, at any rate, very far fetched. As to its actual invention as the accessory, and in fact motive power of the violin, the value of pictorial representations may be proved by a glance at Figs. 76 110, which represent bows only, taken from the most reliable sources, from pictures, sculptures, etc., of every century, from the eighth to the sixteenth. The first thing that will strike you will be the great similarity which exists between all of them, from the first to the last, and also the close parallel which may be drawn between any one of them and the primitive modern bows represented in Figs. 1 1 1, 1 12, which show
VIOLIN-MAKING : AS IT WAS,
two bows now in use among the Moors and the primitive Indians, which are indeed the most simple and obvious form in which the bow could exist. The conclusion we are brought to is consequently this either, all representations of bows which have come down to us
:
AND
IS.
59
ments and more retrogressions. Fig. 91 is from a MS., reproduced by M. de Coussemaker, Fig. 92 from
a sculpture in Potier's Monuments Francais, Fig. 93 from a picture by DAgincourt, Figs. 94, 95 are from Ely Cathedral, and in them there is too much want
of detail for
great extent.
are unreliable,
or,
the
bow
instead of developing as
them
to
be
historically valuable to
any
We
and bore the same relation to its companion the fiddle, as do the early specimens of delf ware to the exquisite Sevres specimens, which recline side by side in the cabinet of the delightfully incongruous nineteenth century drawing-room. If you ask me to which of these conclusions I incline, I think the two deductions are to one another as three times two are to twice three, and that a combination of the two would probably account for the present misty aspect
primitive simplicity,
Liber Regalis, for Figs. 96, 97, 98, which are somewhat similar, and are again rather a reversion to simplicity
than an improvement.
and discuss
extent
instrumente,
Franca is ;
from Riihlmann's Geschichte der Boge?iwho quotes it from Herb^'s Costumes Fig. 77 is from the Abbot Gerbert's,
is taken from the be observed that this shows a very respectable form, as does also Fig. 78, which is reproduced from Strutt's Manners and Customs of the English People, from the cut which forms Fig. 8, Chapter I. of these series of articles (Vol. I., p. 72). Figs. 79, 80, and 82 are crwfh bows, the two former from a MS. at Neuberg, and the latter from the MS. from St. Martial de Limoges, and forms part of Fig. 2 Fig. 81 is from an enamelled plate, (Vol. I., p. 72). dug up at Soissons, which bears two females playing bow instruments one of them having a bow almost identical with the ravanastron bow, represented in Fig. H2, and the other having the bow here represented. Fig. 83 is from the crwth player, represented in Fig. 3 (Vol. I., p. 72), Fig. 84 from a sculpture in the Cathedral of St. Denis, and Fig. 85 from Strutt in his
De Canlu
MS.
et
of St. Blasius.
improvements in bow instruments drew with them like improvements in the bow, and though in Figs. 99 and 101, which are from pictures, are elemental-)'', yet Figs. 100 and 102 are most interesting, as showing respectively the violin and double bass bow of the epoch. Fig. 100, the bow of a trumpet marine, is from a MS. in the Monastery of St. Godehard, of Hildesheim and Fig. 102, we may consider trustworthy, being from a picture by Raphael, in the Vatican. In the sixteenth century, which saw the actual introduction of the violin, and when books began to be written on the instruments then in use, our evidence on the subject of the bow becomes practically certain, though artistic representations ot bows of the most elementary description continued to be produced, just In Figs. 103 and 104, the latter as they are now. especially may be considered trustworthy, being from an illustrated work on instrumental music. Figs. 105, 106, and 107, the first and last particularly, may be Fig. ioS is from a taken as artistically fanciful.
tury, the
;
little
musical work, but the designator has evidently paid attention to " so minor a consideration as the
Fig. 108
picture, the
work before referred to, are again, a very considerable advance in point of shape. There is a figure of Neptune on a capital in a MS. at Douai, holding a bow, which is absolutely and identically the same as that
represented at Fig. 84.
ture at St. Denis,
at
is from Paul Veronese's wellMarriage at Cana of Galilee, and as Paul was himself a viol player, any representation of a musical instrument by him, we may accept as The same remark applies to Fig. no, which historic. is from a picture by Gerard Dow, in the Dresden Gallery for Gerard Dow's mother we know played the Viol da Gamba, from her famous portrait by her son. Fig. 109 we may also take as trustworthy, being
fiddlestick."
known
from
Raphael's
famous
picture
ot
St.
Cecilia
at
Bologna.
After this, the bow as we now have it was practically introduced, and our further representations thereof will
Fig. 86
is
and
its
once remarked.
In the
(Figs. 87
99)
is
we
towards perfection.
Fig. 87
from a sculpture in the Cathedral of Rouen, and Fig. 90 from a picture by Cimabue, in the gallery of the Pitti Palace at Florence, being almost perfect. Fig. 88 is again rather elementary by comparison, and Fig. 89 from a figu e of a Jongleur, given by M. Vidal, reminds us very much of Fig. 78, Strutt's AngloSaxon bow. In Figs. 91 98 we get more improve-
be merely progressive, and not including the results of With the figures we have before artists' imaginings. us, it remains therefore, only to separate fancy from and this division I think you fact as near as we can may safely say will be as follows Figs. 76, 77, and 78, we must take as they stand, but Fig. 77, it must be remembered, is the work of a priest, reproduced from the work of another priest, and we may there; :
In Figs.
79
6o
VIOLIN-MAKING : AS IT WAS,
AND
IS.
Fig. 8 1.
Fig. 82.
Fig. 91.
Fig
96.
Fig.
91-
Fig95-
Fig. 93.
Fig. 99.
Fig. 87
Fig.
00.
Fig. 102.
Fig. 76. Bow of 8th Century (from Herbe's " Costumes Francais"). Fig. 77. Bow of 9TH Century (M.S., St. Blasius). Fig. 78. Bow of ioth Century (Saxon, Strutt). Fig. 79-82. Bows of the iith Century (Figs. 79, 80, Crwth Bows from MS. at Neuburg Fig. Si, from Enamel Plate dug up at Soissons Fig. 82, Crwth Bow from MS., St. Martial, Limoges). Figs. 83-86. Bows of the 12TH Century (Fig. 83, from Worcester Cathedral; Fig. 84, from St. Denis; Figs. 87-90. Bows of the 13TH Century (Fig. 87, from Fig. 85, from Sculpture at St. Denis). Fig. 85, from Strutt Fig. 89. from Vidal Fig. 90, from Pitti Palace, Florence). Fig. 88, from Italian Painting Sculpture at Cathedral of Rouen
Bows of the 14TH Century (Fig. 91, from MS., De Coussemaker; Fig. 92, from Sculpture, Potier; Fig. 93, from a Picture, D'Agincourt Fig. 94, from "Liber Regalis," Strutt Fig. 95, from Cologne Cathedral Fig. 96, from MS. at Ghent Figs. 97, 98, from Ely Cathedral). Figs. 99-102. Bows of 15TH Century (Fig. 99, from Picture by Hemleroy
; ;
Figs. 91-98.
;
MS.,
St.
by Raphael
at the Vatican.
VIOLIN-MAKING: AS IT WAS,
AND
IS.
61
Fig.
no.
Fig. 109.
Fig. 108.
in.
Fig 10;
Fig 113.
Fig. 114.
Fig. 120.
Fig. 121.
'*
Fig. 122.
, , .,
LS
,~^ *"
*y
s''
""<"""'
Fig. 116.
Fig. 112.
Figs. 103-110.
Bows of the i6th Century (Figs. 103, 104, from '-Musica Instrumentalis," M. Agricola, 1545; Fig. 10s, from MS. Potier Fig 106, from " De Harmonia, Mus. Inst.," Gafurius Fig. 107, from MS. Fig. 108, from Painting, " Mirriage at Cana," by Paul Veronese Fig. 109, from Painting of St. Cecilia, by Raphael at Bologna; Fig. no, from Painting'by Gerard Dow, at Dresden). Fig. hi. Moorish Rebec. Fig. 112. Indian Ravanastron. Figs. 113 120. Bows of the 17TH Century (Figs. 113-116, from " Traite d'Harmonie Universelle," M. Merseunus, 1627 Figs. 117, 118, Simpson, 1667; Figs. 119, 120, Irom " Theatrum Instrumentorium," M. Pratorius, 1620). from "The Division Viol," Fig. 122. Bow by Tourte. Fig. 121. Bow of i8th Century, showing Cremaillere.
.
'
VIOLIN-MAKING AS IT WAS,
:
AND
IS.
is
Fig.
79
is
being a more
elementary form,
probably
;
Fig.
18,
of the
I.
actually in use
Fig. 8 1
among
from a well designed work of art, and is therefore most likely to be copied from existing specimens. In the same way Fig. 78 gives probably a correct idea of the bow used by the peasants and lower classes. It is probable that up to comparatively
reduced.
we were
it
right to
recently the
rebecs, or
was
being found
lower
bow
more
than arcs, as depicted by Figs, in, 112, notwithstanding great improvements in the
bow
86,
bow
;
Figs.
S3
and was a strip of notched back of the stick. To the movable nut was added a band of metal which could be hitched over any of these notches, and the tension
This
is
shown by
Fig. 121,
to the
metal as at A, fixed
of the
bow
thereby regulated at
will.
indeed,
cannot
Denis.
have never noticed the original at Figs. 84 and 85 may be taken as approxi;
to this latter,
who
lived at the
com-
mencement
first
when
for the
mately correct delineations of the viol bow Figs. 83 and 86 being probably for the greater viols and trumpet
In Figs. 87 90, Fig. 88 is artistically elementary, but Figs. 87, 89, and 90 especially may be considered faithful representations. In Figs. 91 98,
marine.
Figs. 91, 93, 94, 95 represent the actual, and Figs. 92, Figs. 96 and 98 are, 96, 97, 98 the fanciful element.
In
and 101 representing fiction, Figs. 100 and 102 may be said to represent fact, in the case of the double bass and viol bows of the period. no we reach certain evidence, Figs. In Figs. 103 105, 106, and 107 being the last relics (as far as we are concerned) of that artistic imagination which always has, and always will stand in the way of the antiquary who searches after truth. And so by progressive stages
Figs. 99
102,
worked by a propelling and withdrawing screw is bows were a great improvement, being better proportioned, and made of lighter wood, not to mention the elegant manner in which he was in the habit of fluting his bows, throughout half, The head was generally or the whole, of their length. long, pointed, and turned back, which gave the bow a very graceful appearance, as in Fig. 122. The nut and head of the screw were generally of ivory. Mr. Arthur Hill has perhaps the best collection of old bows in England, the bows of old viols are much more scarce, unfortunately, than the viols themselves. Tourte's eldest son was much inferior to his father it is his younger son Francis Tourte as a workman
;
we
120, the
is like
the
name
of
These are all absolutely faithful diagrams of the existing bows from contemporary and reliable authors.
history of the bow.
It is
M.
Fetis in his
chapter on bows, at the end of his Antoine Stradivari, has given a most interesting and valuable
now
that
we
though
account of this king of bow-makers, which as translated by Mr. John Bishop, of Cheltenham, is shortly
It is difficult to say was a recent introduction. where the nut was first introduced. M. Fetis is of opinion that it owes its origin to the east, and cites as evidence in his Antoine Stradivari, an Arabian MS. of the time of the first Caliphs, which depicts a bow with a fixed nut. He quotes also, a bow of his own, made of cherry-wood at Bagdad, with a properly constructed head, and nut to receive the hair, the latter
Tourte long known by the name of was born in Paris in 1747, in St. Margaret's Street, and died in April, 1835, a g ed 88 Intended by his father for the business of a years. clockmaker he entered when very young into a workshop, neglected every other study and never knew how Perhaps he was indebted to the to read or write.
Tourte, junior,
trade which he at
first
fitting into
a notch
in the stick.
is in
skill
and
deli-
The
fixed,
nut
we
see
Figs.
113
120
in all cases,
bow of the
and 118 are most interesting as coming from an instruction book for the Viol daGamba,*
century,
and
Figs.
1 1
cacy of hand which he afterwards displayed in the manufacture of bows. Disgusted with his condition after having passed eight years in the clockmaking
* Christopher Simpson.
The
workshops, because he did not there meet with sufficient remuneration for his needs, he took to the busi-
HOW TO MAKE
ness of his father and brother.
^3
At
them
making
essential to a
good bow.
It is
ments with the shades of expression of which the great Italian vocalists had given the example and they all desired bows which should answer better to the effects which they wished to produce, and which should possess at the same time greater lightness, spring, and elasticity. Francis Tourte made his first essays with wood from the staves of sugar casks, with a view to determine the forms of the bow and to acquire skill in working without making use of expensive materials. He sold these early products of his manufacture for twenty or thirty sous each (ten or fifteen pence). Being an indefatigable investigator and fully sensible
;
being unheated would in time cause the outer and heated fibres to resume their normal position. It is
inattention to this that causes the rapid deterioration
much
;
bows
as to their sticks
is
larger
and
The
prepara-
bow
in the
all
production
kinds of wood
;
which appeared to him proper to realize his views but he was not long in discovering that Fernambuc wood alone would yield the results which he sought to attain, and that it alone combined stiffness with lightness. The period of the first and important discoveries of Tourte extends from 1775 to 17S0. Unfortunately, the maritime wars of France and England then presented a serious obstacle to the importation of Fer-
which he subjected it consisted in scouring it he then put it into bran water, and lastly, after removing the hetrogeneous particles which had adhered to it, he plunged it into pure water lightly coloured with blue. His daughter was almost constantly employed in sorting the hairs, rejecting such of them as were not perfectly cylindrical and equal throughout their length. This is a most delicate and necessary operation, for not more than one-tenth of a
with soap
;
fit
one side
flat,
bow
nearly always
clustered
together in a round
of the sounds.
point,
nambuc wood on
the pound.
the continent,
and
mass which impaired the quality After making his observations on this
by which
for
dyeing purrichest in
poses
is
exported in
is
that
which
is
pinching them
the nut
tin,
with
ferrule,
silver.
colouring matter
ture of
;
he
first
made
of
afterwards of
" the
slide,"
He
little
is
subsequently invented
plate of
face of the nut.
i.e.,
the
wood
is
He
many
hairs
Sometimes eight or ten tons of Fernambuc wood scarcely present any pieces with a straight grain, and suitable for making good bow
sticks.
The
rarity of this
wood
mentioned explains the enormous price which Tourte asked for his bows he sold a bow, the nut of which was made of tortoise-shell, the head inlaid with mother-of-pearl, and the mounting of the nut and button of gold, for nearly ,12. His best bows mounted in silver with an ebony nut were sold at about 2 3 s an<i tne ordinary unornamented bows fetched about thirty shillings." Tourte finally fixed the length of the violin bow between 29-134 and 29-528 inches, and the requisite height from the stick of the head and nut, counteracting the weight of the head by the ornamentations in silver, gold, etc., with which the nut of a bow is loaded. Tourte bent his bows by means of heat to the required shape, and it is thus that all bows are shaped and not cut out of a plank the shape which we see them, as many violin players suppose, for the latter would cuj
; -)
number now, being, as a rule, between 1 50 and 200. At the end of Fetis' Antoine Stradivari (translation by John Bishop, Cocks and Co., 1864), is given a most carefully and scientifically worked out determination of the true working proportions of the Tourte bow, and
as are
now
how
they
may
be obtained.
(
To
be contijuted
"
HOW
wood
articles on the above have been delayed so long, which has been caused through pressure of business and other unavoidable circumstances, and I hope the delay has not caused my readers any inconvenience. The present paper is devoted to the Camera. Of late years no other scientific apparatus
REGRET my
64
HOW
On
TO
structive
last
necessary
to
construct
their
own
few years, the apparatus has changed and improved as much as the
looking back, say, the
apparatus.
from the great heavy box camera to the present handsome dry-plate camera, described in the following pages. The following is a brief desctiption of a few improvements in photographic apparatus during late years :
process
itself,
A very unique
focus of the lens
The
is
clamped at the desired distance, and the final adjustments are effected by a fine screw adjustment this camera is very compact, and, when folded, has the appearance of an ordinary sample case. Then a camera was invented and styled the Jonte' dry-plate camera. This was invented with the purpose
;
Without making any further remarks upon appaI shall describe the camera we are about to construct. It is essential in every form of camera for tourist use, that it should be as portable as possible, yet combined with strength and I would especially bear stress on this one important part the great mania of the day is to reduce each piece of apparatus to the least possible weight, which will be found not only unsatisfactory to work with, but very expensive in the end. Having made both light and ordinary cameras, I can speak from practical experience, and that is reject every camera or tripod that is advertised at
ratus,
;
in-
money
will last
asked, but an
a lifetime, and
it is
the arrange-
used.
ment consisted of camera and changing box combined. T he changing box is connected to the bottom of the camera the camera is pushed out to the approximate focus of the lens, and is clamped by means of a
;
That the back should be capable of swinging from the vertical plane, which is known as swing back the swing is described as of improved form, which allows the camera to fold up in the same space as one with;
are
raised
in
their
by these from the changing box into the camera, on turning the pinion as mentioned above. And more recently are the cameras invented and manufactured by Pumphrey and Lawley ;both cameras
adjustment
;
The
moving
will
front, in
it
pictures
position.
may
same
camera
viz.,
dark
The camera,
most
slides.
The cameras
means of a bellows arrangement, connected with the camera, which enables the operator to work in the inside of the camera without admitting light, and
These cameras, numbers of others invented during the last few years, have their advantages and disadvanThey are very compact and portable still I tages. myself would not be bothered with the great amount
thus perform the necessary operations.
like the vast
;
arranged to take stereo pictures. The dark slides, when complete, should be of the following dimensions 8{ by 5!- inches the illustrations are worked out to the greatest nicety from these
may be
calcu-
view.
field to take each have compared the improvements with my own apparatus, and as yet I have not found one that would induce me to give the old love for the new. With a camera such as I am about to describe, and half-a-dozen dark slides, all fitting in a tourist knapsack, I do not find any difficulty in walking a distance of twenty miles, the tripod acting as an alpine staff and these have done me very good service these present summer holidays, having just returned from
I
by a \ inch scale. The camera may be made of either walnut or mahogany (baywood) I much prefer the walnut myself, for two reasons first, that it makes a much more beautiful finished camera, showing up the different grains of wood, effected by means of clamping, and shows the brass fittings off to greater advantage
;
very straight grained, it is much If your tools are in easier to work than baywood.
secondly, being
first-class
and then
it
will
be
in
fit
a very successful photographic tour, fully satisfied with the design and make of the camera, etc.
I
will
be
hints,
knowing
that
many
of
HOW TO MAKE
65
tall!illlllig:Mlllllllllli3l:iiiliinngiTT
neiililHlM
P
1
"J
C_
gm
IQ'llllllbl
Section on line
FIG.
D.
BASE
OF CAMERA.
12
SLIDE.
FIG. 13.
FRONT OF
CAMERA FOR
HORIZONTAL
SLIDE.
FIG.
14.
FIG.
IJ.
ISOMETRICAL
VIEW OF CAMERA.
66
AND
USE.
any respectable
will
Now mark
the position of
timber merchant's.
wood
of
it
is at
grooves for the racks to fit in, which are J inch wide, inch deep, and i inch from each edge "next comes
;
the groove, as
is
sound and seasoned. Procure a moderate sized plank of either American walnut or baywood, as decided upon, inch thick, the walnut will cost about 8d. per sq. foot, and the baywood 7d. per sq. foot. Do not buy spare pieces, as by doing so you get several classes of timber, and you will be much more satisfied with your work when complete, than if made from bits. Assuming that the wood has been procured, and all tools in thorough working order, we will commence work with the body of camera, which is represented by Fig. 14 (j scale, that is to say, on a scale of 3 inches This, when complete, should measure 8J to the foot). by 6J by 2\ inches, the top and two side-pieces are of I inch timber, the bottom piece J inch. This is made the full width and sawn afterwards, as indicated by the lines shown in the illustration it will be necessary to make the framework about A inch
take great care
perfectly
;
which
sides
this
groove
is
generally
made
will
with a circular-saw.
Those of
my
readers
who
;
have
to
buy a
the
The
connect the body of camera to base, slide backwards and forwards as desired.
Next is the front, which is represented by Figs. 12 and 13, j scale, Fig 12 showing the front proper with
arrangements for the vertical slide, Fig. 13 for horizontal the dimensions of front, when complete, are 8J inches by 75- inches by i inch the two side-pieces with screw holes, Fig. 12, namely vertical runners, are 1 inch and i| inches wide, bottom the J inches wide pieces are tongued on the inside, the ends of bottom-piece are grooved to fit in the tongue of the sidepieces glue and screw down to the frame, Fig. 14. The centre portion forming the vertical slide, is clamped as shown, with cavity, as shown by the centre portion, running horizontally this admits the free working of lens, this must be grooved so as to correspond with the tongues of vertical runners.
;
wider than required when finished, in order to allow for sawing and planing; it must be dovetailed together
as shown.
If
to dovetailing,
procure a dovetailed box and you will readily see the method, then practise on spare timber till fully competent.
When
square,
Fig.
13
slide, to
which the
first,
flange of lens
made
15); the
made
with
should be
plete.
all dimensions given are when commeasure the length and breadth of timber required for the front frame as shown, which is when perfectly \ inch base, tongued and grooved fitted, glue all round, the use of this frame is to attach
inches; of course,
Now
clamps as shown, the top and bottom rib with screws affixed, are the runners in which the horizontal slide works in this slide is bevelled all round as represented in Fig. 13 by the double lines. Fig. 15 is an isometrical view, showing the application of the
;
and bellows. Next comes the base, Fig. 11, { scale, which, when complete, should be 9 by 8 J by | in. Reserve the finest grained pieces of timber for the base and front, as those parts are the most prominent in the camera measure the different lengths and breadths for clamping. The base is constructed of three pieces, top clamp \ inches, centre 4^ inches, bottom 4 inches; plane perfectly square, and tongue and groove together the grain of top and bottom to run crossways, and the centreTongue top and bottom-pieces. piece lengthwise. The centre-piece is grooved as shown in the section on line a b all timbers on the cross should be grooved when tongued and grooved, and per(not tongued) fectly square, glue together]; when set clean up, and saw the bottom clamp as shown in order to hinge, the
the front
;
which
will
VELOCIPEDES
THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND USE.
By
A.
STEPEENSON.
Ill,
OWN
noted
at
TRICYCLES,
bottom-piece with screws fixed in should be 2J inches, and the other lynches; the edges must be bevelled as shown by the two outer lines, so that the two pieces
the end of my last paper, makers have made a decided departure from the crank and chain wheel methods of propelling tricycles, the aim being to produce machines having an equality of power through the whole stroke, and practically no dead centre consequently, an
several
hill
is
climbing.
The
"
Overman"
or " Victor,"
a machine of this
67
and
is
The
Its
"
Dutton
"
is
yet produced.
driving
the
Overman 'Wheel Company, Hartford, Conn., and the same machine will, I understand, be shortly brought out by the Singer Company, of
called the Victor
;
an open-front rear-steering tricycle. consists of two discs one on the inner side of each driving wheel at the hub, these move freely backwards and forwards on the spindles they are furnished each with a hook or click, which in the forward motion engages with a slant toothed ratchet wheel fixed to the hub. The discs are put in motion by a steel cord wound round the edge, a groove being made for that purpose, and descending to a pedal
Coventry.
It is
two above described. It is also a rearis not open in front, as the main shaft carrying the two driving-wheels is a through one, the rider sitting immediately behind it. The shaft is
to that of the
The
driving
mechanism
its
own
driving
attachment
attachment consists of geared wheels, ratchet levers, and foot-pedals, each half of the axle has a small cog-wheel keyed on. A secondary shaft carries two larger cog-wheels which gear with the
;
this driving
small ones
this
lever
some
2 feet in length
and the cords attached immediately behind the pedalsA downward stroke of a pedal pulls round the disc with its driving wheel, the power to do so being equal
is
during the whole of the stroke, as the pull of the cord always on the periphery of the disc, and consequently always the same distance removed from the is the centre of the axle. The back-
fulcrum, which
ward stroke of the discs is effected by coiled springs within them, sufficiently strong to turn the discs and
lift
With
this driving
arrangement long strokes or short may be taken at pleasure and as the two driving-wheels are quite free and independent of each other, both strokes may be
;
taken at once, thereby increasing the power immensely, and sending the machine over almost any obstacle.
It is, in fact, asserted by a writer who has seen the machine, that it may be driven up a stair at any rate, he had seen it driven up several steps. The power
;
in this
machine
is all
forward,
it
will
is at rest, and a powerful brake used. The " Merlin " tricyle, an English make, is propelled somewhat after the same fashion, though the design of the machine is entirely different. It is also an open front rear-steering machine, each wheel is
where they are furnished with pedals each lever its fulcrum, which engages a ratchet wheel on the side of the larger cog-wheel. A downward stroke turns the larger cog-wheel backward, and being geared with the small wheel on the main axle turns that wheel forward. The proportion of the cog-wheels to each other is such that a full stroke of the pedal propels the machine about two-thirds of a revolution, and full power is obtained throughout the stroke, there being no dead centre. The machine is also fitted with hand levers, which in conjunction with the foot power makes the machine a very powerful one. It is also fitted with mechanism for back pedalling, thereby giving it an advantage in that respect over the Victor and Merlin. The pedals are lifted for a fresh stroke by a cord attached to each and passing over a pulley, the down stroke of one pedal lifting the opposite one. Any length of strokes may be taken, but they must be alternate, a double stroke like the Victor or Merlin cannot be taken. One other machine of this class may be briefly noticed, this is known as the " Omnicycle." Unlike the above three it is a front steerer. The two large wheels are mounted on a long shaft. Two discs, or more properly arcs of circles, are mounted on this shaft. Straps go over them and descend to pedals which run forward, and have their fulcra immediately
rider,
;
The
is
peculiarity of the
or,
more
properly, a
drum of
their
They
the rider.
A downward
hinged frames, having steel straps which form the arc of a circle, having the axle for its centre. The frames are expanded or contracted by a lever the steel arc as it advances to or recedes from the shaft always main;
drum, and with it the driving-wheel, by means of a hook engaging with a slant toothed wheel on the hub, as on the Overman, the back stroke being effected by a
This machine, like the Victor, does not back pedal, so depends entirely on the brake for down hill work. Any length of stroke may
coil spring inside the
its
The
they
may
drum.
hill
climbing.
The
feet of the
be taken,
machine.
or
both
together,
as
in
the American
end of the levers, and the straps pass up to the segments behind the legs. The back stroke is effected by small gear wheels at the centre of the main shaft between the segments;
rider are applied to pedals at the rear
68
AND
USE.
Having now
machines,
briefly noticed
we
will at
once proceed
papers, are far from being failures. machine was quite unlike any type of tricycle known to me. It had a double cranked axle with two large wheels going first, these wheels were both drivers and steerers, the steering being effected
future
some
My
first
FIG.
FIG. 3.
PLAN
?
of
our
own
tricycle.
But
to
I
first
of
all,
what type of
Before going
in
machine
shall
we choose
say that
work upon
with two upright side levers turning the frame upon a pivoted joint under the seat, the pedals hung down
further, let
me
am
an amateur mechanic
in
from the cranks not unlike the " Monarch." The second was of the Humber pattern, it had a knack of running into the hedge I dismantled it before I took time to master it. My third was an open front
;
hope
to
show
AND
USE.
69
set
4,
which
have
lately finished.
that if any of the readers of Amateur Work, Illustrated, of a mechanical turn of mind are disposed to go into the building of their own tricycle, they
so
It is
cannot
fail to
wheel on the left side and two 24-inch wheels on the right, which both steer, this being
the peculiarity of this type
are
projections
Fig.
of this
of machine.
have heard
machine.
side view,
and
Fig. 3
spoken
rated
above, from
which
it
is
a very decided
improvement on
steerer,
my
rear-
be sufficiently
to,
of,
clear.
both as to steadiness
and ease of propulsion. I have had it out some three times, and though but a novice in riding, I have
already mounted
hills
mence
with
the
building of a wheel.
that
spokes, and
or
felloe.
This
along
It
machine
that
I
steers
so
The hub
through
;
is
steadily
could
run
a couple
it.
of 6 inch
planks on
is
which the axle hubs may be bought ready made I made my own. It consists of two flanges and
passes
;
a central tube.
The
pattern
and easily stabled. It has but two tracks on the road, and is altogether (so
to drive,
far as
a wood-turning
pattern
is
lathe,
this
circular
disc
my
limited experience
goes) about
tricycle
on the road.
first
shall
\\ inches in diameter. The form of it will be seen from a reference to Fig. 4, which is a section of both flanges and central tube.
pattern as our
The
pattern
is
_^
_'
'
"
,.:,,-,
.-
""'
,~,/,-,'S's/s/s/fS/s/////., .,",*/".!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^g^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
q
FIG. 4.
SECTION
me
OF HUB OF WHEEL.
FIG.
At the
is
outset let
my
machine
is
i\ inch diameter
side
it is
and
inch long
on the opposite
Coventry Rotary,
no part of
the
rim
recessed | inch deep, leaving a projecting inch broad, through which the spokes are to
same
I
pass.
The web
or
is
g inch thick,
made
in Coventry.
will
| inch thick.
The
endeavour
construction in
job,
minute
detail,
and exactly as
which
is
7o
DECORATIVE CARPENTRY.
and projecting J
;
inch,
all
same
angle,
and
all
conhole.
shown
shortly
the axle
on
to the pattern
The
pattern ready,
rim
gun metal, one flange with the two snugs, and the other without them. The flanges cast, and the piece of tube 6 inches long and i^ inch diameter procured, we proceed thus: A piece of wood is turned
it is
cast in
to
fit
when
it is
mounted
in the lathe
through as before mentioned. Then a brass rod -fz inch square is drilled with 48 holes smaller than those in the hub and tapped for the spokes, then they are sawn between the holes, thus making 48 cubical nuts, the spokes are
allow
the
wire
to
pass
tine,
and hand
screwed for half an inch of their length, and passing through their rim are screwed into these nuts, which
lie
may do this job, but it requires some experience. amateur would find it easier to use a slide-rest. The flange is held in a 3 or 4 jaw chuck, or in its absence a block of hard wood bolted to the faceplate and a recess turned on its face to receive the flange tightly. The exposed face is now turned, as also the central projection, to receive the tube, which should be a good tight fit, and up to a shoulder turned
find
An
be about the best method of making a wheel with spokes all of one thickness, as when a spoke
this to
breaks, the nut with the broken piece drops out, the
piece
is
easily
for
it
The
is
now
bored, and
it is first
while running.
inch twist
its
now used
it
is
back end having a sunk centre it is put against the centre point in the back headstock and fed to its work with the hand-wheel. It should be fed very slowly, and a good hole is sure to be made. In the absence of a twist drill a common drill may be used and the hole cleaned out with a
inch reamer, or with a small side tool in the slide-rest.
none of the screwed part appears above the edge of the flange. The spokes may pass through the nuts i inch without any harm, as a thin circular brass plate is fixed on the outer face of the hub with three screws, thus covering in the nuts, spoke ends and the rough recess, as well as the nut on the end of the axle. The spokes are steel, No. 10 W. G. in straight lengths and
The
same way, then both The hub thus far made is now mounted on a f inch mandrel, put in the lathe and turned on the edges and
other flange
is
treated in the
this
may be done
readily
The rim is crescent steel f inch section. Spokes and rims are got from a maker or dealer. The rim has to be divided equally for 48 spokes and drilled. Be it observed that the holes are not in a row in the middle of the section but in a zigzag position, or right and left alternately, and at the same time with sufficient angle to allow the spokes to meet the hub end without bending or straining. After boring, the holes are to be countersunk to receive the heads of the spokes, which should be flush or nearly so, as otherwise they would
headed.
interfere with the holding of the
rubber
tyres.
Now
round with the point of a graver, this is to show the line on which the spoke holes are to be bored. The number of spokes is 48, so each flange is
all
made
we have made our hub and drilled the rim, we have now got to cut the spokes the proper length and screwcut the ends to
fit
equally divided for 24 care must be taken at this point to make the holes in one flange opposite the centre of
;
In
my
diagram
will
show how
when
(To be continued.)
The
mark
is
made
at
each division with a centre punch, then to bore them a drill is used the exact size of the wire spokes, No. 10 W. G. All the holes are drilled towards the centre of the hub, and at an angle with the axis such as will
allow the spokes from both flanges to reach the rim
DECORATIVE CARPENTRY. FOR THE ARTISTIC AND USEFUL ADORNMENT OF THE INTERIOR OF EVERY HOME.
By
J.
W. GLEESON-WHITE.
bored mine by
fitting
a block
wood on
to the
moving cylinder
;
in the headstock,
its I
proposed:
(1) to suggest
to
lower end resting on the lathe bed and bevelled off to the angle required in this face
face
made
to
the amateur, various adornments for the house, in accordance with modern taste in
art-furnishing, so called; (2) to
two grooves to insert the edges of the flanges, at such a height as brought the part to be bored opposite the drill point, the hub is thus turned in the grooves and
endeavour
DECORATIVE CARPENTRY.
manner, and that without following any particular style and bound to no strict canons of art, caring little if it be Queen Anne, " Early English," Gothic, Neo-Japanesque, or other high sounding, and as a rule completely misleading title, but keeping designs suitable to the material employed and sufficiently free in their suggestiveness, to allow individual taste and
necessity to
.71
an unpleasant greasy
plain surface,
if it
rub. It is always patent that a takes the wear less, shows it more,
tells out clearly. Nothing could be better here than a wainscot, as it used to be
modern
" culture
little
a very
make
up with a papered surface, soon shabby, and never satisfactory if repaired, but needstructure, than put
personal treatment according to the surroundings and material at the worker's disposal.
worn.
A
1,
be well to insist on honest treatment, wood as wood, whether painted or plain, but looking the real thing it is and if the cheaper decorative materials are used, to try and use them as they are, and not in imitation of a more costly article. Perhaps the least confusing way will be to go through an ordinary house, room by room, and note in each part any fresh way of treating a common-place feature, or a fit and useful place to introduce some
far as possible,
it
As
will
may be used the height and size must be governed by the need of the owner. The old rule of the rail taking the rub of a chair back is a good rough guide to the height wanted the panels may be slightly decorated by simple bracket pieces of thin
suggested in Fig.
;
wood
A skele-
more novel
several
structure. It will not be assumed, as sanguine art-writers have done, that each
shown in Fig. 2 this could be made of very slight wood (J inch stuff) put together in the simplest way, as shown in Fig. 3, and fixed to the wall behind the skirting board, which is easily removed and
placed in the front, the height of the lower
rail
ton framework
should
amateur is so fortunate as to possess a lumber-room where stores of old oak, tapestry, and other bygone riches lie waiting discovery, and ready for fresh manipulation neither will the methods suggested rest on a special gift for carving and painting, or other skilled workmanship, but, as a rule, be such as the ordinary tool chest, with occasionally the lathe and fret saw brought to bear on the more ornamental features, can in fairly skilful hands work out without outside aid. For those of the gentler sex who, while wishing to adorn their homes cheaply, but with taste, are able merely to work fret-cutting or decorate with appropriate painting as required, these papers will be of use,
;
be arranged that the skirting board overlaps it by arms i an inch at the top, a chair rail, for which
alternative forms of a simple character are given in
Fig. 4, finishes the whole.
top, left 8 in. square,
at the
may
(No. 300, 4d. each, No. 400, 4^d.,both dark, or No. 200, 3id. blue and white) in its simplest and cheapest patif glued to the wall could be put in place framework was fixed, the whole of the wood, and the wall behind in the panel openings being painted in any colour that may be preferred, or the openings showing in place of tiles a paper of rich small all-over pattern, that, guarded by the projecting woodwork, would escape the wear. Most paperhangers have odd pieces of costly papers that they sell very cheaply, and one piece carefully used would suffice for along passage. The wall space above may remain as usual, either painted or papered. The chair rail to the left in Fig. 4 is of a form which will allow plates or dishes to be placed on it with safety. If something of a wainscot or dado in the styles suggested is contemplated, out of it and as a part of the design might grow (as it were) a hat or umbrella-
terns
these,
after the
penter
is
in
which
house,
Beginning, therefore, at the entrance of our typical we will not waste words on what may be there,
itself
windows and more structural features of the house, must be left in professional hands but we will see what can be done to improve this much-neglected part of the home a part, too, from which every stranger nevertheless gets his first and often lasting impression of the dwelling. This is the only part seen by many callers, it is yet often in otherwise well furnished and tastefully-decorated houses, the most conventional and
stand, the
stand
is
mean portion of the whole establishment. The wear and tear of this much-used part suggests as an imperative need some ample protection for the
if it be only a passage from its size, though called by courtesy a "hall," the passing of so many people and packages will soon make the paper shabby, or if painted leave
;
away from the wall by reason of the skirting board, and is also somewhat tilted forward by the weight on it, its unsightliness is made still more prominent and obtrusive. It will be seen in Fig. 5, that by a simple
arrangement of the panelling, four divisions are made a story higher, the chair rail being stopped at each side, and carried on the top of the higher portion,
72
single
DECORATIVE CARPENTRY.
brackets (Fig. 6) fixed to the uprights at a
may
it is
convenient height, and connected by a bar of wood or metal, afford space for sticks and umbrellas, while
the skirting board
is
framework of the
rails
than
fastened
of one's
in
It is all
the wall
wet umbrellas. For such an arrangement as this a separate hanging hat-stand that could be fixed on the wall above, would be most suitable. A design for such a hatstand,
given
this
includes
or rather hat-rail,
is
given in Fig.
7.
It is
ex-
hall table, in
with a
other
tremely
as
far
simple
as
the
inits
chair
seat,
or
sufficient
principles
furniture
for
volved
in
small hall.
details
The
conare
construction are
of
concerned, and
this
struction
maybe said
similar to those
of the wainscots
or panelling that
have been
scribed,
is
deit
and
only necessary
refer to
to
the
The
de-
projections that
the conare
form the
or
tables,
table
for
struction
exhibited
plainly
more and on
in
there
are
two,
as inasideboard
a larger scale
Fig.
all
8.
of ordinary construction
First of
with
the
compartfor
to
say,
ment
brellas
umbeing them.
the
wood
taken
di-
between If it be desired
to
to
cover
rights.
The
central compartFIG.
mensions
of
II. DESIGN FOR A HAT AND UMBRELLA STAND, WITH HALL TABLE ATTACHED.
ment as
well as
these, as far as
the outer
ones
entire
width and thickness are concerned, may be I J inches square, or 1 \ inches for width and 1 inch for thickness. Notches are made in these uprights at suitable distances to receive four
\ inch thick
;
may be
etc.,
easily
made on
either side of
it,
and the
rails,
about
or,
as
is
shown
in Fig. 8,
may
may be
desired.
be of the same thickness as the uprights, and halved into them in the manner shown in Fig. 3. The lower pair of rails do not extend beyond the outer surfaces or sides of the uprights, but the upper pair of rails are carried beyond them to admit of an additional hatpeg or hat-hook, as shown in Fig. 9, on either side. These upper rails are further connected by shorter uprights, so as to form a framework for the reception
of the papyrotiles shown in Fig.
10.
The large central panel, lettered A in the illustration, may be treated in different modes, according to
the fancy of the maker.
say, without
It may be left open, that is to any substance introduced to fill up the
is
adding a pleasing
life
and character
to the whole.
The most
appropriate
These papyrotiles
be a piece of looking-glass, or a nicely painted plaque, if this be preferred; the mirror is more useful.
filling will
DECORATIVE CARPENTRY.
73
FIG. 7.
FIG.
5.
ARRANGEMENT
FIG.
FIG. 9.
ORDIFIG. 7.
USED IN
FIG.
3. CONSTRUCTION OF
IN FIG.
2.
FRAMEWORK
FIG.
_^
m
U
09
Q>
1
g
1
I
be
I
bo
.9
.9
o
.3
W a
o
CO
&
&
J
i
FIG.
I.SIMPLE PANELLING FOR WAINSCOT IN HALL, WITH CORNER BRACKET-PIECES AT TOP OF PANEL.
FIG. 2. SKELETON WAINSCOT FOR HALLS AND PASSAGES, SHOWING THREE DIFFERENT METHODS OF TREATING PANE1 S.
74
ELECTRIC BELLS.
ELECTRIC BELLS.
By GEORGE EDWINSON.
tion in this
time as
to
be as punctilious
in
if
of music on a piano,
The
dots of the
by one, and the dashes by two, whilst the spaces between words and figures where a stop does not intervene
signal should therefore be represented in time
NOW suppose
and
fixed
my
readers to have
made
some electric bells, and to have spent some little time in transmitting
from one house to another, or from one room to another. For this purpose preconcerted signals have been agreed upon or invented as required, and these have been found to be irksome and difficult to remember, because constructed without any reference to a definite plan. We may, however, reduce bell signals to a definite system, and use this system or code as a means to carry on conversation at a distance as intelligently as it can be done
signals
by a person counting three, the space between a word and a stop being of the same duration. To make this more clear, I give an example. The mistress signals to her coachman IT H El G E IT C
:
AIR
Y
2 2
I
I
IIII
A
2
G
21
E
3
:
READ
j
2121 I2|I2I
121 IIII2
12 211
2122
The coachman
replies
by a
pair of telegraph instruments. In fact, the Morse telegraph code can be easily adopted for use with electric bells
A
2
its
11
12
The
letters
When
B
the mistress
is
I
shown
H
iiii
A.
B-...
J.
K .
L.
S...
C-.-. D ..
E.
..
2.
21 II
121
c
1
II
U..
v..
.
.
N
.
3... 4.. .
A
2
I
R
21
A
I
G
2 2 1
F..-. G
P. R. -
H
I..
Q--._
.
.
w. X . T
.
6
7 8
9
12
I I
...
.
And
.
the
coachman
(re)
Ch
to signify that
It will
he understands.
O(0D)
(ue)
It
letter,
will
be noticed that the strokes to represent a do not in any case exceed four, and that all the
signal
represented by five strokes of varying Stops and other marks of punctuation are represented by six strokes, which are
letters respectively as
figures are
be found convenient to have an answering from the receiving end of the line to each word separately, this must be sent in the pause after each word, and consists of the short signal E when the
.
word when
is
the
word
is
not understood.
Comma
Full stop
(,)
(.)
by
,, ,,
AAA
I I I
or
. . .
Interrogition
(?)
(-)
A hyphen
Apostrophe
Inverted
,,
(')
,,
,, ,,
commas
(")
(
Parenthesis
Semi-colon
Surprise
,,
,,
,,
UD BA WG AF KK K Ch N Ch
I
,,
,,
,,
,, ,,
....
.
.
.
may be given by ., an affirmative by the signal for AL other abbreviations may be devised and used where desired. The code having been committed to memory, it will be quite easy to transpose the words and send messages in cypher when we wish to make a confidential communication, or the bells may be muffled under a thick cloak, and thus whilst the measured beats are heard
a question
.
,,
,,
. .
r
.
Colon
Ch
,,
sending signals to indicate stops, no regard must be had to the letters which they represent, these are only given as aids to memory, and are not to be
In
bell.
by the person for whom the signal is intended, others outside the room will not be annoyed by them. Other codes beside the Morse telegraph code may also be pressed into service, and in this way, wherever varying longs and shorts are used to represent an alphabet, conversation may be carried on by means of those bells. I need only mention those of the heliograph the flashing signals used in H.M. ships and the foghorn signals of the mercantile marine.
;
;
ELECTRIC BELLS.
Simple pieces of music may also be translated and transmitted by this means, and thus many an evening's amusement provided when days are dull and damp.
It will
75
making
it
equal to a
new
battery.
The
pitch seal of
representing the old notation can be thus transmitted, whilst the time value of the notes may be indicated
again, but
few days, then in hot water, then dried and used it is not usual to do so, because even after
new
cells.
The
by T and
for a semibreve,
I
for a crochet,
for
a quaver,
fragments of carbon
nese
may be
for
pauses.
Fig. 63,
The
a semiquaver, and the bars by the usual spring switch, Fig. 72 * or the tapper key,
in
charge and washed for future use, but the old manga-
may
the car-
shown
my
last paper, in
page
519, Vol.
I.,
bon
in
strip will
clean binding-screw.
from a
failure of
one or more
I will
of their parts to
charging the porous cells anew, I must refer my readers to that already published in pages 415, 416, Vol. I. If the galvanometer indicates
when
and give
tions for their repair. When a bell ceases to ring on pressing the signal stud, first examine all binding
by the swing of the needle that the battery is all right, we must next examine the bell by the aid of the
battery, that
is,
if
these are
all
them
together,
It
right, next examine the battery, and test its current. If you, or any of your friends, happen to have a galvanometer or a current-detector, you may easily find out and locate the fault. Begin at the battery. Disconnect the line wires and connect the two terminals of
and
on short
soft,
it
circuit.
some-
not quite
the case,
therefore
becomes
if this is
we must
stick a bit of
gum-
the batten' by
label, or
If the needle fails to move, or only moves faintly, examine further as follows Take out the zinc rods and examine them, if they are
:
ends of the magnet legs. Perhaps the platinum tips of contact parts are faulty and corroded, perhaps
'
are
loose
fitted,
wash them
in water,
soak them
the
wires, perhaps
armature
is
not
a mixture of oil of vitriol one part, to four or five parts of water, then rub quicksilver all over until they are bright with it if they are only
few minutes
in
properly adjusted.
but
if
Such
its
no
we must
junction with
the push or
blackened, merely wash them, and proceed to examine the solution in the outer cell. If this has been in work
for a few months,
the
and the
cell
warm
and
cell
;
will
crystals will
wash off these crystals, replace the cell and the zinc, fill up the outer cell to two-thirds or even threefourths full with rain-water, and test the battery again. If it still fails, examine the lead caps on the carbons and their binding-screws, sometimes the ammonia salts will undermine the lead and interpose a white lead salt between it and the carbon, when this is the case, it will be best to treat the cell as an old one and replace it with a new cell. But it frequently happens
that the battery fails to act because the binding screw
is
both line wires to one screw at unscrew the cap or cover of the push, press the end of one of the detector wires on the upper contact piece, and the end of the other detector wire on the lower contact piece, and note the action of the needle. If this acts all right, examine the contact points of the pieces, these are sometimes scamped, that is, either a drop of solder has been put on them, minus the speck of platinum, or no attempt has been made to tip them at all, in this case the brass has become corroded, and this in itself is enough
bell,
connect
to cause failure.
all
Unscrew the contact pieces, make good and fasten them in their places again. Inpage 432, Vol.
I.
it
When
may be
remedy
is
then obvious.
If the
show
line
much
in use, or
has been set up for months or years, and the zincs are much worn, it will be best to put in new zinc rods, new porous cells, and a fresh solution, thus
and the
part,
battery,
little
made a should be shown under instead of over the strip B, and the knob, D, must istened to the strip E, instead of to c, as shown.
engraver, usually very careful and helpful, has
The
mistake in
my sketch. The
strip of brass,
C,
and we must must therefore follow the course of the wires, carefully examine and test each soldered joint, see that staples have not cut through the insulating material, and examine especially the soldered connection to the earth plate, and
or
the
line
We
76
ELECTRIC BELLS.
it,
where an "earth"
5s.
to
used.
Should a
and if the line mended, by soldering in a bit of wire of the same size and quality, unless the line is slack enough to admit of its being drawn up for repairs. In any case, the
repair of a cut line
is
it
their
hand
at
1 os. For those who may wish to try making a galvanometer, I append the
:
following instructions
Galvanometer or Current Detector. This instrument owes its action and usefulness to the fact, that a piece of magnetised steel, when free to move, will
place itself at right angles to a current of electricity
culating in a conductor near which
it is
cir-
tightening of staples,
the
placed. In the
along a large portion of the line. If the fault cannot be discovered by the aid of the foregoing hints, the
owner of the
friend
bell
services
of a
form now about to be considered, the piece of magnetised steel is balanced on a spindle, and enclosed in a narrow chamber, around which is wound many turns of fine copper wire insulated with a silk covering.
who
unthe
When
tric
passes
the
an elec-
derstands
current
through
thus wire
subject, or those
of a professional
man,
to
examine
wound
c
the system.
ause s
the
an
of
at
the
current
an angle proto
portionate
or the ends of
move an
in-
dicating needle
of the tongue,
make
this
outside the
chamber)
in the
contact in
position.
If
same
tion.
propor-
current
it
passes,
We
able
are
to
leaves an acid
FIG. 79.
thus
metallic taste on
the tongue,
which varies
intensity
in
INSIDE
NEEDLE.
FIG.
estimate nearly
I.
with
FIG. 80.
p.
OUTSIDE
NEEDLE.
E. M. F. of the
current passing
through such an
449, Vol.
I.)
bell as a testing instrument, shifting it from point to point as required, but this plan is unreliable, for the
bell
may be
out of order,
it
is
best therefore to be
Such an
instrument
suitable
may be made up
at
made
in various styles, at as
many
It
is
various prices,
of a
of
little
all,
constructive ability.
We
shall
and
not
my
inten-
need,
them here, for a common current form will suit our purpose, and such a detector can be bought for 1 is., or cheaper forms for even a less sum, from Mr. Dale and others. Workmen intending to start in the trade will do well to provide themselves with an instrument costing from
tion to describe
made
a magnetised needle, this can be out of a piece of watch spring. Procure a piece
first
detector
it by heating it and allowing it to cool gradually in a bed of hot ashes, then file it up to the form shown, Fig. 79,
drill
ELECTRIC BELLS.
harden
it
77
by heating
it
plunging
at
and it again to a bright red once into cold water. It now has to
to
be magnetised
ordinary
do
this,
rub
it
it
sewing needle strongly, or wrap it up in and send many jerky charges of electricity from a strong battery through the wire. When it has been well magnetised, mount it on a spindle of fine hard wire, as shown in Fig. 77, and secure it by a drop of solder. We will
several turns of insulated line wire,
smooth cardboard, 3^ inches in diameter, with a graduated arc marked as shown in Fig. 81, will serve the purpose of a dial, and a piece of thin brass bent to the form of Fig. 78 will be required as a needle guard. The face of the dial may be a circular
piece of glass held in a brass ogee, or a hole the size
of the dial
may
be cut
in a piece of thin
wood;
this
may be
next
turn
our
attention
to
the
case,
bobbin,
or
chamber, in which the needle has to work. This may be made out of cardboard entirely, or the end-pieces may be made of ivory or ebonite, or it may be made out of thin sheet brass for our purpose we will choose cardboard. Procure a piece of tough cardboard 4^ inches long by 2 inches wide, double it to the form shown, Fig. 76, and pierce it in exactly oppo;
form the front of the instrument over the indicating needle will also be required for an outside needle this is usually made of watch spring of the form shown (Fig. 80) and nicely blued but it may be made of brass or any other metal, one made of aluminium being probably the best on account
to
dial.
made
An
of
its
lightness
it
must
balance
it
as the
beam
of scales should be balanced, and should one end be heavier than the other it must be filed until
site
sides,
and
the
in
the
needle
card-
spindle.
We will now turn our atcoil. Procure sixpennyworth of No. 36 silk-covered copper wire
piece of stout
tention to the
exactly
bobbin,
in
being
the
to
pared
the form
is
shown,
careful
passing
not
it
needle
spindle
it
pinch
of
or throw
out
this
truth.
When
has been wound on, it made to allow the spindle will be found that one FIG. 81. FRONT ELEVATION' OF CURRENT DETECTOR free movement, and these end of the wire points secured in position by a little melted shellac, sealing to the left and the other end to the right. These wax, or glue. The needle must now be placed in the are destined to be connected to the under side of case, the long end of spindle first, then the short end the binding screws shown on the top of Fig. 81.
case with the needle held between the finger and thumb of the left hand, we secure the joint with a little glue, or with melted sealing wax. The end-pieces are now to
We
therefore secure
them
to
enclosed
ends
to
It is
say
we
about 6 inches.
for testing
in
position,
and
set aside
handy to have an additional coil strong currents, and as this may be comat
we
bined
in
one instrument
trifle
additional cost,
The case, 5 inches by 4 inches, by 2 inches in depth, may be improvised out of an old cigar-box, but is best made of thin mahogany or teak, nicely polished
on the outside, and fitted with a cover sliding in a groove, or hinged to form the back of the instrument-
will get
some
it
line wire
turns of
The binding screws should be of the pattern known as the telegraph pattern, fitted with nuts cost about c.d. each. A small brass handle, to be fixed to the top of
around the coil outside the other wire one wire will be attached to an additional binding screw placed between the others, and the other end to left binding screw shown. The coil thus prepared may now be mounted in position. Pierce the card board dial and the wood at its back with a hole large enough for the needle spindle to pass through from
end of
this
78
dial. See that the thick end of the inside needle hangs downwards, then place
it
is
note
how
of the
it
dial.
Company, London.
will
work
all parts in their proper This being satisfactory, secure the coil in its place by sealing wax, or, better still, by two thin straps of brass, held by screws at each end; placed across
II, TINTING
EYES.
|0
the
coil.
Now
As regards
some
insert
them under
the indicating needle on the end of the spindle outside, and see that it hangs in a vertical position with the inside needle
wash,
as
warm
when
the instrument
it
is
standing on
a level surface.
Secure
in this position,
screw on
the needle guard, fasten on the glass face, and the instrument will be complete.
and wash over the darkest shadows, matching them in shape and size exactly, or a very if these shadows are absurd effect will be produced very black, as in some photographs, orange chrome
colour
;
connecting the two screws of the long, thin coil with a battery, the needle will be deflected to an angle
On
depending upon the E. M. F. of the current, but when connected with the short, thick coil, only a strong, full current will be indicated, or the quantity of current generated in the cell it is therefore usual to mark the
;
will be found an excellent colour used with plenty of gum. The quantity of orange put on must depend upon the kind of photograph, and the good taste of the colourist just so much as to take away the photographic look, and yet not to look unnaturally bright. Should the print be a delicate one, with faint shadows, Rubens' madder will be found a beautiful colour
coil, or coil of fine wire, with the word Intensity, and the stud of the thick coil with the word Quantity. A little practice with
used with
gum
shadows.
treated with
The
may be
raw
on batteries in various conditions will owner to estimate the value of the deflections and compare them with the strength of the batteries. One use of it I must not fail to mention When a line has been completed it should be tested for leakage. This may be done by placing the dethis instrument
enable
its
umber, a truly wonderful colour, for the way in which it seems to illuminate the dull half-tints of the Between these medium shadows and photograph. the true flesh colour, there ought to come some in most photographs beautiful pearly greys, but, alas and to make anything like a they are wanting finished looking picture they must be supplied, by
!
of to
must have the line wire attached to it instead the battery, and a short wire must lead from the
If there
is
it
being gently stippled on to all retiring parts of the between the deep shadow, on the shaded side and the high light, all down the
temples and side of cheek in the light side, this
delicately mingled
last
a leakage at
will
be
indi-
and shaded
of the cheek.
I
All
especially in ladies
round the sockets of the eyes, and and children, a bluish tint will be
thing more to say about this instrument, and, if it be desired by my readers, I may also turn my attention
observed in the corner of the eye next the nose. If in an ordinary light, you
nearly
all
of" Burglar Alarms," "Sluggards and " Indicators," for cold dark evenings and mornings render those instruments desirable and even necessary in our homes. These subjects, however, will be treated as separate and independent articles, for it will be premised that, from what has been already described in detail, the reader knows how to make all the appliances necessary for causing a bell to ring by the aid of the electric current, and that it will be merely necessary in future papers on the subjects indicated above, to show him how to turn the knowledge he has already acquired to good account under
to the construction
Bells,"
grey, very
all.
little
There are a set of flesh greys sold by Messrs. Bernard, of Oxford Street, London, which are admirable for this purpose, or they may be made by using different proportions of French ultracolour" appearing at
In supplying the
hard black and white photograph, much information may generally be got by consulting the dark side of the face, to make good
of
an
inferior
shortcomings
in the
it
will
often be found that the eyebrow has partially disappeared what it was like may be ascertained by look;
peculiar circumstances.
; ;
HOW TO WARM A
In a finished picture
the
first
79
think
it
is
wash without gum, as that (after the shadows are glazed) gives an effect somewhat analogous to the impasto and glazing of oils, besides it hides or tones
HOW
TO
AN "AMATEUR GARDENER."
we are now far advanced in may not even now be too late consider how we may be best able to
it
down
little.
The
carnations
on the cheeks and lips should be delicately stippled on with a little rose madder with a dash of vermilion mixed with it, more vermilion for children than for adults, as a rule this pink colour should be shaded delicately off towards the ear, and not carried too far up towards the eyes, or it will give a blushing appearance, and, above all things, keep it off the tip of the
;
LTHOUGH
autumn,
to
keep this year's plants, or cuttings, till next spring, from the frost and cold of winter.
for
how can
nose.
a most important feature, and will well repay studying from nature. If the eye can be got to look life-like and full of thought, it will often hide a
is
The eye
be kept out, for one night of it will do immense There are two ways namely, hot air damage. stoves, which either warm air by passing it through them, or radiate heat from gills or plates which form
part of the stove, or
few
by hot-water
pipes,
warmed from
good drawings of eyes and other features at large, such as are to be found in Vere Forster's handbooks,
will
a small boiler outside, which being placed round the sides of the greenhouse at a low level, radiate the
me
good
warming expands,
rises
;
it
becomes
and
who
are very
warm
air is
maintained.
is
much
fire
the best
if it
moment.
As
in
all
has to be kept
inside the
Blue eyes
blue, properly
may be
drawn
and shaded observe where the speck of light falls, and note that it is generally too large in a photograph, whilst the iris and pupil may generally be made larger with advantage. "Grey" eyes, it will be observed, have generally a bluish rim, and are warmer in the part where the light shines through. Generally yellowish dark brown eyes present the greatest difficulty, as they generally photo-
winter,
probability be
an
escape of unconsumed gases, etc., from an open stove, which would be detrimental to the plants also, there are very few stoves which would last all night with;
and expensive
in fuel.
The
next
question
is,
graph simply as black spots. The best way is to take some orange chrome with gum, and paint it thickly all over the iris and pupil, covering them entirely then when quite dry, put in the pupil exactly in its
;
pipe would be required to heat a greenhouse of a given size. First find with a rule the superficial glass
surface of the greenhouse, also the cubical contents of
etc., which by brick or wood, and then apply the following rules, which will give the quantity of pipe necessary to heat greenhouses, etc., of any
generally enclosed
proper
leaving
place, then
the
the light
finally,
shade up with Vandyke brown, light part opposite where strikes the eye light and liquid looking
transparent
if
description, to
i
to
if not, do not attempt to introduce it, as if not be seen in the photograph, depend upon it the head was not so lighted when taken, as to make its appearance possible or natural. Be particular to colour the little red muscle visible in the corner of the eye next the nose. When you require very deep touches about the nostrils, corners of mouth, etc., Indian red and vandyke brown may be used, or a little burnt carmine. Keep the space between the upper lip in half-tone, if too white it gives a pout do not let a deep shadow run round the lobe of the nose, it gives a kind of snarl keep it soft and quiet. (To be continued?)
graph,
heat 6 cubic feet of air 30 per , will square foot of glass in greenhouses will cool is cubic feet of air, as many degrees per minute as the internal temperature exceeds that of the external air ; hence, 1 foot of pipe surface may be provided for every 5 feet of glass, where the temperature
125
130
1
minute.
to
external
at
above the be maintained does not exceed 30 If the temperature is to be maintained air.
glazing
an excess of 40 by 3J, if 50
air,
by
2%.
3,
external
divide
by
mation is, to the whole extent of glazing exposed to the atmosphere, add -J, and multiply the sum by the
So
HOW TO WARM A
to be maintained
number of degrees
is
The
smallest
above that of the external air. The product divided by 190 will give the quantity of piping to be provided, estimated in superficial feet For the parts or by 160 for feet run of 4 inch pipe.
;
of this boiler will heat 20 feet of 4 inch pipe, at a cost of one farthing per hour. This boiler can be
level,
and a
pipe taken off the top and turned outside to carry off
made
also
foot of
4 inch pipe for every 100 cubic feet of air thus enclosed, added to the quantity required by the glass,
will
be
any unconsumed gases, which are a mere nothing. Having decided which boiler you will use, let us now pass on to the fixing. Let us in this instance take the " Star." Hot-water pipes generally used, are
either 2 inch, 3, or 4 inch internal diameter
;
is
of the best boilers for the small greenhouses the " Star Independent Boiler; " this boiler requires
setting,
One
a 2 inch
no brick
which
is
expensive
pipe having half, and a 3 inch, three-quarters of the heating surface a 4 inch pipe of the same length has.
They
are cast either in 9 feet or 6 feet lengths, and any shorter length must be cut from one of these. If the greenhouse be on the ground level, a small hole
FEED
CISTERN
Mil
GB !j5J RETURN _
4Ji
7]
FLOOR
OF
GREENHOUSE
m
(T~
I
r
-;
,....
JP-,
"
large
enough
and
also allow
fire
within the
so
clearly, indeed,
must be sunk so that the top of the boiler (not the feeder) is below the floor level of the greenhouse, or
if it be built at a high any convenient position below will do, for the higher the head of water, the better the circulation. This boiler has on it two pipe connections, the one at the top being for the flow pipe, and the lower for the
by
numbers. be seen from the illustration that the boiler has an extended top feeder, so that it will burn through a night without attention, having an extra store of fuel also, it costs very little for feeding, as it will burn coal-dust, cinders, etc. The height of one as illusletters or
It will
return.
From
is
these connections
or i| inch wrought-
iron pipe
it
46 inches, and 12 wide. There is also a gas boiler, composed of a wrought and castiron casing, with copper tubes inside. This is heated by an atmospheric burner, which by means of a small arrangement at the back carries in air, and mixes it
pipe,
is
good
little
with the gas, thus consuming the oxygen of the air, and giving a small blue flame of intense heat and
is more convenient than cast, not being large, and connected to the cast pipes by means of cast blank ends, drilled and tapped for the same. These pipes must be laid with a little rise, on the top pipe or flow, all round till it reaches the turning point, where a syphon is fixed to connect it to the return or lower
pipe.
This
return
the
as in sketch,
flow has rise,
boiler.
it
same
fall
as the
and
descend, the return being pushed on by the hotter water behind, and drawn by the vacuum being formed
Either
way
work
satisfactorily.
These
passed
end
by the hot water leaving, and having round the pipes, re-enters the boiler at the lowest level, where the fire is burning the brightest, and so continues its course again. With the gas boiler the apparatus would be the same, only the boiler would have to be under the
in the boiler
all
up the open space left with Portland cement. Another way is with red lead and yarn, a piece of yarn being put round and caulked with a proper tool to the bottom of the socket, care being
the better
;
then
fill
although outside would do just as well. Gas would have to be laid on to this, which could be done by anyone
who has
Magazine.
Gasfitting in this
little
is
down
as well
then a small
not
The
If fresh air is
pipe, but
by means of a
but pipes with these cost about 25 per cent, more than the ordinary pipes. At the highest
;
behind the pipes, so that the supply can be regulated, and the entering air become
before
it
warmed
The
Star boiler,
apparatus, which in
is
this
case
let
is
the
be purchased
is
gas
required to
out any
steam,
if
the boiler
is
over-fired.
able
to
\ inch lead or iron, is the best, requires no attention after being fixed, but a tap
The
prices
would require to be opened once a day. This pipe will be carried up in any convenient place, till it is above the level of the supply cistern, and turned outwater to the pipes, ought to have a ball valve and water supply laid on, but this is not necessary as long as it is kept
side.
filled
and
brackets
of
Having studied
any
The supply
readers propose to
I
warm
their
selves,
shall
be glad
to give
them any
to
mation they
difficulty
;
may
require, or
help
them
in
any
by hand,
for as
soon as
drawing off water, etc., is formed, and here the use of the air pipe instead of the tap would be to let the steam escape. The cistern would be fixed on the staging, or on brackets to the wall, and connected to the return pipe as shown. A plug or tap ought to be put in at the lowest part of the return, to allow for emptying the apparatus when required. The action of the apparatus is this The fire being in the centre of the boiler, the water has contact all round and heats rapidly, and the fuel only burns till about half way up, as the air can only get in at the bottom, where two doors are placed, one for cleaning the fire bars
ation,
gets
my
address.
steam
MARK
WICKS.
yvr-vi
II, WOOD PIPES,
As
fast as
it is
consumed
the
place by falling
down from
up at night will last till the morning by regulating the damper in the smoke pipe and the air inlet. The water being heated at the bottom of the boiler, expands, and becomes lighter than the cold, and so rises to the top and enters the flow pipe, and passes on to the highest point in the pipes. By this time it has become cooler,
filled
from the paper pipes, whilst the wood pipes afford but a limited range of tone. The Keraulophon stop, for instance, cannot be made of wood, but is very successful in
paper.
It
may be
if I
are termed 8 feet tone stops, because, if continued down to CC, that pipe would be 8 feet long. The
r>
82
stopt
CC
is
it
gives
the
first
piece
down
exactly the
same
is
note,
also
it
termed an
is
S feet stop.
3
pipe,
viz.,
The
called
3^ inches by 2! inches, and cut off a piece 4 inches long dress the remainder down
;
the Flute)
a 4
feet stop,
do not
the
Dec
The
Flageolet
is
a 2
feet stop,
inches
for
that one
dress
octaves, or a fifteenth,
remainder down
Hence
it is
also
termed
of
and cut that off, and so keep on till you have cut off all your blocks. The first
Ds
twelve will be 4 inches long, the next twelve 3 inches, the next i\ inches, the
rest
As with
it
we
shall,
be necessary
to set
Draw
long,
may be
Fs
used for
all
board 4
it
feet 6 inches
and divide
not a very
it is
long enough.
chapter, but as
wood
but oblong
in
Gs
Now shape the block, as shown in Fig. 20, by cutting a gap with a tenon saw in the mahogany facing, and using a chisel to
take out the piece, keeping the proportions for each block.
one as
The
is
size of the
same
The
sloping
and
As
from them down to the point 6 inches below the mouth, as shown in the sketch, Fig. 19. By measur-
lines
not to
damage
in the
the edge.
The
ing
in
just
the
same way
as
before
bottom is a round hole, which will be bored after the pipe is put together, and the foot will be inserted in it. When you have got a dozen or so of
these blocks ready, get out the
opening shown
and depth of each pipe. I have only shown the lowest octave on the sketch, as I think you will have no difficulty now in making a scale for any sized stop you may wish for.
length, width,
wood
for
the sides of the pipes, remembering that the sides are the deepest measurement.
After planing
them
true give
them
all
The
six
largest
pipes
of
the stopt
Diapason will be made of \ inch pine, and the others will be graduated in thickness
thick.
till
be well
the
smallest
is
only
-?s
inch
You need
wood which
it
is is
to
form
pipe,
them between the sides at the top of the and you will thus have them quite
will
best to
parallel.
The pieces glued at the top be cut out when trimming down. If
together, as
wood
in regular
you cannot get these pieces out without breaking them up, you must cut a slip the same width and use that. While this
is
Let
the
and
free
and thus spoil your work, perhaps when you are least able to remedy it. Keep your wood by you as
or other to
some time
be well to
side, so that
on each
the pipes up
long as possible before using it, so as ensure its being thoroughly well
First prepare
made
seasoned.
some wood
for
ith full size. the blocks of your pipes, by planing up afterwards. some lengths of pine about 2 feet long, and gluing a Now prepare the fronts which only extend down piece of $ inch mahogany on one side of them. Plane to the top of the block and cut the chamfer for the
83
and the opening for the mouth, as shown in It is a very good rule to cut the chamfer as high as it is wide, but the lips had better not be cut
lip,
Fig. 23-
first,
be regulated when you are engaged in voicing and tuning, instructions for which will be given in a subsequent chapter. All dimensions for the
will
mouth
have
to
heights of the mouths, the widths of the windways, the holes in the blocks and feet in fact, every size except
same
for the
me
to
them
here.
The
sizes
require to be
made much
it
smaller in
some
instances.
Let no one persuade you to make stoppers of a piece of board with a handle stuck in the middle, as in consequence of the bearing surface being so small they slip askew and force the seams of the pipes open, thus ruining them. The stoppers should have, at least, 2 I may say that inches in depth of bearing surface. brads may be used in addition to glue for the larger pipes. The feet should not be glued in till it is time to plant them in their places, as you will then be able to regulate them so as to ensure the pipes being upright. File no notches on the edges of the blocks, but leave them quite smooth. The Bourdon is simply a stopt Diapason, and is made in exactly the same way. The largest pipes may, if you like, be made with Ianguids instead of a solid block, by cutting two pieces of wood, and fitting them
into the pipe as
is
shown
in Fig. 25,
The
largest pipe
is
of
i-inch pine,
8 feet
of the
wind, but it would be awkward to remedy if the hole was too small, as it would entail the enlargement of it
right through the length of the foot.
long, 5f inches deep, and 4! inches wide ; the smallest is 2 feet long, 2! inches deep, and 2 inches wide. The
also
25.
if
be
You must
smoothing the chamfers, etc. Before gluing on the fronts or backs be sure that they will lay perfectly flat on the edges of the sides, and in order to secure this it is best to shoot the edges
with the plane after the blocks are glued
in.
Close to the organ a mere rush of wind might be heard, but some distance away the sound would be overpowering, in the next house, or two or three houses off, it would, most likely, be voted a nuisance.
I
The
front
may
state,
and back surfaces of the blocks should coincide with the lines of the fronts and backs of the pipes. Now glue on the fronts, and bind them up tightly with stout tape or string, and then leave them to dry while you
prepare the caps.
flat
it is not advisable to have a separate pedal organ for a room less than 16 feet square. An additional bass stop, to be used in lieu of a 16 feet
hension, that
stop, will
made
of
The
pipe)
is
Lieblich
mahogany, those for the stopt Diapason being simply pieces the same thickness as the fronts of the pipes. The windway in the block (on the top front edge) should be made with a flat file ; do not make it too
simply a stopt Diapason of the same scale as The block is cut out as shown in
deep, but leave the final touching up for the time when you are tuning. You may now with a centre bit bore
the holes in the centre of the bottom of the blocks to receive the feet, which are simply round pieces of
and the mahogany facing projects f inch above CC, and about i inch for the smallest. This stop is described to be used in the swell organ of the two-manual instrument, but it may be substituted for the stopt Diapason of the single manual from Tenor C
for
upwards.
The
stoppers are
wood about
as as
Next prepare the stoppers, or tompions, which are shaped as in Fig. 23, and covered with soft sheepskin,
so that they will just fit into the top of the pipes, but not too tightly to prevent them being moved up and
shown at C in Fig. 26, and Fig. 30 is an inside view of a similar cap. The top of the cap should be slightly below the edge of the mahogany facing, about s inch
in the largest
and -^ inch
to the
in the smallest.
is
We now
down
is
come
the
down.
The
leather
is
to
and
this
must be
first
is
only carried
paper to take
not hold.
A mixture of
tallow
be rubbed on to the outside of the leather when the stoppers are completed, and they will then slip up and
to Tenor C, which, however, being an open pipe, 4 feet long, the same as the CC stopt pipe the width of it is 2i inches and the depth 2f inches. It has a straight block with merely a throat cut in it, as shown in Fig 27 ; the cap C is cut out as there shown,
;
down easily,
is
The upper
84
but with a
fiat file,
as
it is
very easy to
make
too deep
a windway, and then you would have to reduce the thickness of the cap by rubbing it on glass paper in
order to remedy the defect. All hollow caps should be
slightly
thicker than
and them
down the pipe. The mouth up one-third of its diameter, and, if made of wood, the block and cap may be like either the Flute or open Diapason, which ever you may desire. The Keraulophon, as I have already stated, cannot be made of wood.
cut
Three, or at most four, small screws to each cap are all that should be required, and the cap should fit so nicely that no wind can escape except through the windway.
on without
splitting
them.
The Flageolet stop is made with a block shaped as in Fig. 31, and has an inverted mouth like the flute. The largest pipe is only 2 feet long and the scale is i|
inch deep by
great care in
We
now come
to the
Flute stop,
which is made in a rather different manner, as it has what is termed an inverted mouth, that is the chamfered
side of the lip
is
This stop will need i-f-g inch wide. making as the pipes run so very small in the treble, and you must be very careful no', to let it be too loud and shrill. If
it,
make
these
The
of the pipe so
that
appear quite plain all with merely the mouth cut in it. You must not plane the front of this stop after it is put together, or you will spoil it, all planing for the front must be done before it is glued on. This pipe will require two caps, the inner one being merely a flat piece of mahogany,
as in Fig. 29, the exact thickness of the
disc of thin
up
entirely,
and then
it.
drill
a very
fine hole
through
The
thickness of the
nearly the
same
for the
may
allow
open
and having a round hole bored opposite to the throat, and countersunk on the outside. This cap projects above the edge of the block
front of the pipe,
The
rule
is
111
wood
tone.
the
Open
let into
exactly the
same height as does the mahogany facing in the Lieblich Gedacht. The outer cap is also hollowed out exactly in the same way as for that
stop, but should
which
is
bent
down
the
and
||
a saw cut
made
in
be
This
lid
edge of the inner cap. The scale for CC is 2 inches deep and i\ inches
wide.
f
F[G. 33.
the top of the pipe, but should never be shut right down, raising it sharpens,
and closing
it
The
pipes are
to
be made ac-
Another stop, which may be made of paper or wood, and is called the Gemshorn (German, goat's horn) may be substituted for the Flute. It gives a
as the
flute,
OPEN DIA
cording to the lengths given in the scale, with the addition of the length
of the block.
PASON COMPLETE.
They
will all
be
slightly
powerfu
It is
is
much used
the
longer than the tone speaking length, but this is n cessary in order to allow for the stoppers in the stopt pipes, and for cutting down to the right
in small
to
mouth being
same
to
it is
only one-third
of that diameter.
more trouble the straight pipes on account cf the necessity of preserving the proper proportions. If
it is
Of course
rather
the scale lengths of the paper pipes. When trimming the pipes down only very narrow pieces should be taken off with the tenon saw, for you can always take
off
make than
more
to
if
required,
if
matter
remedy
but it becomes an awkward you cut the pipe too short. The
made
be
all
in paper,
one mandrel
down at either end to get them to the proper size, and you would make them in much the same way as you make
that
is
able for
scales
chamber organs.
larger.
would be much
the conical
feet,
The lips of the large Bourdons may be made mahogany and tongued on to the fronts, as shown
85
FIG. 20.
FIG. 21.
BLOCK GLUF.D
SIDES.
FIG. 22.
BETWEEN THE
FRONT VIEW.
FIG. 28.
SECTION OF
FIG.
LOWER PART OF
FLUTE.
27. SECTION OF
DIAPASON.
FIG. 25.
SECTION OF LOWER
PIPE.
FIG. 26.
SECTION
OF
PART OF EOURDON
n
1
FIG. 31.
SECTION OF
FIG
29.
LOWER PART OF
FLAGEOLET.
FRONT VIEW
OF INN>R CAP.
FIG. 32.
VIEW OF INSIDE
86
Fig. 25,
to
foot.
ITS PRINCIPLES
The sizes of the throats in the blocks and the sinkings in the caps may be taken from these sections, and should be gradually lessened
for
original
short
each successive pipe, preserving about the same proportions to the size of the block. It is, however,
not requisite that the dimensions of the throat should
and although,
dion
is
mathematical nicety. The pipes, when completed, should be carefully packed away in a dry place in a room where the temperature is about the same as that in which the organ will be built. It is best to complete all the
be
being largely driven from the field and studio, a knowledge of it or its principles is highly desirable and to every photographer, amateur or professional there are many who think it not unlikely some return may be made to the " wet process," even by those who
;
pipes,
if
possible, before
commencing on any other it gives them time to down, and should there be any
is
have publicly declared they have done with the nitrate " of silver bath for ever, for in many studios a " bath has to be kept for the class of work a dry plate is unable to perform. Dr. Vogel, a celebrated German
chemist, has patented a mixture of collodion and gelatine those who, when he was over here, had an oppor;
and thus have to leave other work to remedy the mischief. As regards painting the pipes, some
persons advocate plain wood, for the excellent reason
is often used to hide bad materials and worse workmanship. This, however, is no reason why paint should not be used on material and workmanship known to be good, and my own experience justifies me in saying that it improves the tone in many cases, and undoubtedly preserves the material, whilst it looks better than plain wood for pipes that
most on a small scale, and introduce the same commercially are two very but I think Messrs. Rouch and Co., different things
tunity of trying his patented emulsion, spoke
highly of
it.
To produce an
;
article
180,
Strand, London, are Dr. Vogel's agents. Argentic gelatine bromide sensitive dry
plates,
of chemistry
and
science.
are in sight.
In a later chapter
specifi-
issue,
who seem to have done the most to make it and bring it to commercial and successful are Messrs. Kennett, Bennett, and J. B. Bolton.
gentleman
is
The
latter
who have
money
at their disposal,
of Photography,"
may
amateurs.
and the first-named gentlemen both To Dr. Maddox is ascribed the honour of
would urge the would-be organbuilder to consider the size of the apartment in which the instrument is to be placed before starting on the work, so that the organ may be suited to the surroundings. It must also be remembered that, though a single pipe does not sound very loud, a full chord on one stop gives a considerable increase in tone, and when all the stops are out and the couplers in action, the noise would be simply unbearable unless great care were exercised to keep down the power of the pipes when in course of construction. For this reason I advocate pipes of small scale, with the mouths not cut up too high, as they can be made to speak up well and yet not be noisy. Thus far with wooden pipes and the way in which they are made. In the next chapter the sound-board and wind-chest will receive attention. {To be continued.) \\ o~
In the
I
meantime
being the father or inventor of the process, but as the process slumbered for some years after he had shown
the possibility of combining gelatine and silver with an heliod salt, and further showing the possibility
camera,
of developing the same, after exposure in the that without the labour it's not improbable
of others, and especially the above named, still have been in happy ignorance of
plates.
I
we might
gelatine
might just mention here that dry plates are not a novelty in photography but, take them all round, they required such a long exposure that for porThe professional phototraiture they were useless. grapher, seldom or ever used them for out-door work, and the chief consumers and users therefore were found amongst amateurs, who used occasionally to astonish us at the various Photographic and Fine Art Exhibitions by some Gems really wonderful produc;
tions.
The reason
87
man who
slow.
Argentum
as an element,
is
is
known
nitrate
times quicker than wet plates. And we hear of instantaneous shutters being made, that only permit of an ex-
atomic weight
is
being ioS'o.
in nitric acid
The
photographers use
aquafortis)
crystals
posure not extending beyond the y^th part of a second. On a recent tour by water round England and Wales, with an ordinary shutter, I succeeded in obtaining
well-exposed and sharp negatives of vessels passing
of silver, which
made by
till
(known as
and evaporating
substance
of nitrate of silver
our steamer while it was going at full speed, and photographs have been publicly sold of an express train going at 56 to 60 miles per hour. If any of my readers
will calculate
remain formed
taste,
The
if
now
skin with a
known
in
how many yards such a train traverses one second at 60 miles per hour, they will simply be
at the bare thought.
and
is still
by many.
stances,
it
amazed
Being composed of one or more subis called a compound, and its symbol is Ag.
How
volved,
.
to
make
come
in its
N0
3.
proper place.
with instructions
i.e.,
how
dry plates
Gelatine
any photo
per cent,
dealer,
Nitric acid is known by the symbol, HN0 3 but upon mixture with the metal silver, and upon the application of heat, H, which stands for hydrogen,, is set free, flies off, and so we get Ag. NO : its equivalent is 170, that is to say, it combines with some other
;1
salt or
chemical
in the
two pounds' worth are taken. The trade pay the same price as amateurs in fact, in photography there is seldom any difference charged, the only advantage professionals gain is in being able to use, and
;
emulsion,
As we require bromide of ammonia to make we take this salt for our illustration. Broits
equivalent 98,
and thus get a discount. Considering their general high price, and the small amount of precious metal that enters into their composition, it pays amateurs and others who have spare
therefore buy, large quantities,
should not be 94^4, however 98 is generally accepted and acted upon. So we weigh up 170 parts of nitrate of silver these parts may
is
in dispute if
it
time to make their own plates mind, I am not saying they are dear, for the question of skill and labour
;
be grains, ounces, or pounds, and 98 parts of bromide of ammonia, and the two chemicals, when mixed with water, exactly combine, and we obtain two fresh substances, bromide of silver, Ag. Br., equivalent 188,
nitrate of
if
good quarter-plate
very cheap at 2^d., and as excellent plates can be obtained at that price, there is no cause to grumble or complain. Many of the old
is
ammonia,
NH 4 N0
equivalent 80.
Now
veterans
make
their
own
plates,
they only
make a successful batch of emulsion, this being the name for the argentic gelatine bromide in a liquid state. The difficulty manufacturers find is to make batch after batch alike, equally
It is
knew how.
not
difficult to
you add 188 and 80 together, you obtain the number 268, which is equivalent to adding 170 and 98, and thus you see although mixed and altered in look, properties, and other characters, nothing has been lost or taken from the other. If more silver is added than
the bromide will combine with, then
silver,
it
is
called free
and
free
and so on with any other chemical. Every article bought for wet plate photography, chemicals or apparatus, is required for dry plate work
from spots and other defects. When an amateur makes a batch, be it rapid or slow, he knows that all the plates
coated with the emulsion will be all equal in rapidity, and so guides himself when making an exposure in the camera, but a maker of plates wants his all alike
hence,
cent.
perhaps
liquid
is,
we must except
this
a wart or corn will go a and if the acid long way towards removing them is diluted, it makes the best white-wine vinegar. a
;
following purposes
as
it
plates so
we have complaints that in the same lot of much variation occurs, as from 20 to 50 per Some makers state how rapid their plates are,
The
880,
Liquid
ammonia
them rapid, extra rapid, and instantaneous, and when two or three degrees of rapidity are sent out, that maker is more to be depended upon than the
others call
bromide of ammonium, bromide of potassium, cyanide of potassium, ground alum, bi-chloride of mercury, two small bottles, different shapes, each holding 4 to 6 ozs., 1 dozen dry plates, one or two flat ebonite or papier-mache trays, to suit the size plates you
88
intend making
Opticians
are gradually
and whole-plate
the
object
methods
The dry
more
are a
Each
some
when made
into
makers arrange
;
negatives.
trifle
The plates of
packed in grooved boxes. makers of dry plates that mention or try all. The
chemicals
follows
:
required
for
There are now so many would be impossible to full list of apparatus and dry plate work will be as
it
be half as long again in the first instance, take one second for the normal exposure of the largest stop, and there are five stops, it would be thus 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, and in the second case, say nine stops are supplied,
that the exposure should only
:
1,
With
stops
the
work and
slides, lens or lenses, tripod stand,
Camera, dark
plates, unless
plates,
flat
dish
same
|
size
as
to
is
lb.
liquid
the
ammonia
bromide
1
oz.
lb.
to
any oilshop, scales and weights, those that weigh up to one ounce, with weights from I grain to 60 grains, glass graduated 2 oz. measure, two or three
developing cups, 4 ozs. citric acid, hyposulphite of soda, and a dish for containing the same in solution, a
pie-dish
for
The
in
exact proportions of
of
the
is
very reliable
de-
comes in useful here, in fact two the other the alum in solution. Get them different shapes
veloper
No.
Liquid
1.
The
is
s.me solution of
fix
if
ammonia
"880
... ... ...
drachms.
hypo, that
is
used to
if
fix
the the
Bromide potassium
Cold water
Stoppered
Citric acid
bottle.
...
30 grains.
4 ounces.
negatives in
great
;
economy
but
it is
...
hypo, bath
is
handy
bath for each part of the process. How to expose the plate, and for
No.
2.
how
long, has
...
6 grains.
Cold water
bottle.
...
4 ounces.
been fully treated in Part IX., page 420, with this important difference, that the exposure must be at
least ten times less,
When
To
and
if
Pyrogallic acid
use; lay the
64 grains.
in the flat
from
fifteen to
twenty times
a curious
fact,
more
in
them with
gelatine plates.
diaphragm, or stop,
this was optional in wet plate photography. Suppose your lens is supplied with six stops, for a gelatine plate, use the second or third, counting from the largest this would suit a group, but for a building,
;
Now
if
near,
Why
use
;
a stop at
all ?
many may
all lenses,
feel
inclined to exclaim
it,
the defects in
dish, and under the tap or jug this prevents air bubbles forming. Cover the dish with any opaque substance, a piece of wood, cover of book, sheet of ruby glass, an old slate; now measure out 1 drachm of No. 1 into your developing cup, and add ij ounces of water, remove cover, and pour this evenly over the plate, against the edge, not on the plate now take 1 drachm of No. 2, pour that also into the empty developing cup. Take the dish containing the plate and No. 1 solution in the left hand, and add about half the solution in the dish to No. 2 in the cup; now return No. 2
exposed plate
;
swill
treated
later
Where
instantaneous
have to be used for moving objects, sometimes the diaphragm is dispensed with, or if used, only the largest size stop. Personally, I would always sooner use a stop, and even at the expense of one or two
and the additional solution to the dish, rock it gently to and fro, so as not to spill any, and cover it over, at the same time just lifting the same up every five to
ten seconds while you count thirty slowly. of the image
If
properly
now coming up
PHOTOGRAPHY
appear
faint,
:
ITS PRINCIPLES
AND
PRACTICE.
89
and so the image will grow in intensity Most plates require to be developed till everything appears buried or lost in a fog and if you have seen the image gradually grow up and lose itself, as it were, when it comes to be fixed all will and
detail.
;
add, say,
to
add
2 or 3
drachm of No. 1, and perhaps you will require drachms more; but it is well to add a little
2,
more
pyro. No.
not go on.
be
right.
We
will
:
common
now
This
is
This
been developed is now washed from the dish. It is next immersed in the alum for a short time, say 1 minute, this hardens the film, and takes out any stain the proit is again longed development may have caused washed. The plate may now be handled, if desired. It is next placed in the hypo, or fixing-bath, and remains there till all the unaltered bromide of silver is removed,
The
plate having
it
without removing
is slow, hence ammonia is added to hasten the development and give detail. When the image is fairly out, but looks thin, more pyro. may be added to give greater density hence the saying, ammonia for detail, pyro. for density but under some conditions,
this
may be
it is
after
remain
in the
hypo, another 3 to 5 minutes, when take out and well wash, then placed to soak in a dish of cold water, this
ammonia appears to impart to the half-developed negative as much density as the pyro.
Bromide.
This
;
acts like
the
acid
on the wet
collodion process
clear, prevents
and so
retards
or restrains the
and so produce an
changed several times. The negative is now passed under the tap, and stood in a drying-rack, see Fig. 15, Part IX., when quite dry, varnish. Stop out any transparent spots, and print in the usual manner. Formula for the plain solutions of bromide, liq. ammonia, alum, and hypo. 1 oz. Bromide ammonium, 60 grs. Cold water ... Cold water ... 2 ozs. Liq. ammonia '88o, 1 drachm. The above in separate bottles it is best to always use
: I
I
harmonious negative. Citric Acid. This enables pyrogallic acid to be kept in a liquid state without discolouring, and so becoming useless. Various other substances are used and recommended, as nitric acid and sulphite of soda mind, not hyposulphite of soda. How to apply the Above. If the image is known to have been over-exposed, add more pyro. No. 2, and use less ammonia, No 1. Many operators keep two small bottles one containing bromide and the other ammonia, and are thus enabled to check or accelerate the development as it progresses. Should the image be known to be under-exposed, use less pyro. No. 2 and more of No. I. It is often a good plan to develop out say for one or two minutes, before adding anymore of No. 1, that is, to obtain the density before you have the detail, in case the fault is not discovered till the developer is applied. If the image flashes out directly, or nearly so, the moment No. 2 is added, and you can see almost all the picture, pour off the
liq.
ammo.
Powdered alum (any quantity), say \ lb., in a pint jar When cold or jug, fill up with warm water, and stir. the alum and water are in the condition known as a
saturated solution
;
of
this
solution
use just
half
enough
to
fill
water to
fill
now
at half-satura-
tion point.
By use
it
receives
a colour something
between port and sherry; it should be thrown away, and a fresh lot made. Hyposulphite of soda Water 13 ozs. Hypo. 2 ozs. This may be used several times, When discoloured or exhausted, throw away. Many operators prefer to take one print from the
:
I
negative before varnishing, just to see if it will print satisfactorily, as sometimes they are over-dense, and
at others too thin. If the negative is dense,
through
alum
wash under the tap to stop further action. Now take, say, 1 drachm No. 2, and 2 drachms out of the developing cup, add sufficient water just to cover the plate, and if you have any bromide separate, add a drop or two of that also. By thus keeping the ammonia down, and
prolonging the development, a passable negative
bath having failed to remove it, then, after washing and draining, but while still damp, immerse it in the alum again, and let it remain there any time you like, say, It is best to use fresh alum for this purhalf a day. pose, and, if you have a spare tray, use that. The following is more energetic than plain alum, it not only
may
be obtained.
Alum
developing for a minute, and no trace
oz.
Citric acid
...
\ oz.
Now,
after
Water
3^ ozs.
exhausted.
Water Glass.The
facturers for producing
The
operation
is
by English manu-
water glass
;
to 50 seconds.
crucibles
Should the negative be too thin, and print flat, may be intensified by the following method 200 grs. Bi-chloride of mercury
:
caustic soda or
5 parts.
potash, 48 parts
Or,
Bromide of ammonium
200
grs.
Water
10 ozs.
washed quartz sand, 65 parts; anhydrous alkaline and charcoal powder, 4 parts. carbonate, 34 parts
;
This is best kept in a wide-mouthed pickle bottle, and can be used over and over again. Immerse the plate in this till it becomes quite bleached and white, it
will take 10 minutes now wash well, and immerse or pour over the plate the following ... ^ oz. No. 1 Solution for developing
;
heated to redness, until entirely fused, and the contents are cast on tin plates for cooling, and finally crushed. Water glass is used for a large number of purposes in the arts, but it might find many every-day uses if better known. Mixed with
The mixture
is
chalk,
It will
10 ozs.
tint,
stone
glass
is
which
is
very non-
forms, on drying, a compact, marble-like bone ash, zinc white and magnesia with water form similar stones. Ransom's artificial stone
it
;
actinic,
Should the plate be very thin indeed, instead of using the No. 1 solution as above, after removal from the mercury bath, and well washing,
use the following
Nitrate silver
...
:
prepared by mixing sand with water glass solution form a plastic mass, which is pressed into the required shapes and then placed in solution of calcium
to
chloride
I
silicate of
calcium
is
2 drachms.
Water
...
10 ozs.
When
dissolved,
add
the grains together, the chloride of sodium formed at the same time being removed by washing with water.
Cyanide of potassium ... ... 2 drachms. Apply this exactly like No. 1, as above, only remember that cyanide of potassium is a most deadly poison, you will know it best doubtless as prussic acid and
;
With
clay,
lime,
sand,
cement,
etc.,
soluble glass
many
of the
etc.
it
patented
artificial
stones,
plastic
tiles,
slates,
The
make
an
cyanide of silver
is
likewise as deadly.
and
it
is
developed,
much more
it
may
be of
the
be admitted
must
Joints.
not
till
the plate
is in
may be
allowed to shine
upon
it,
and
it
is
litharge.
Reduce
to a proper consistency
and apply
white light
till it is
where needed.
=*-=
{To be continued.)
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
felt
at
one
time or other in
how
desirable a
it would be if they could meet with any cheap and simple contrivance, by m which they might be enabled to reproduce and multiply copies of any written document or sketch with-
Stencil Ink for Wood. An excellent stencil ink for boxes and packing-cases can be made by mixing lampblack, fine clay, and gum-arabic together.
whose
must
be paid
of whatsoever kind
it is
The lampblack
body, and the
Of
late years
true that
answer as a solvent, but lampblack is so light, that a few drops of vinegar or other acid will facilitate its admixadhesive.
will
gum an
Water
public,
by which
Any good
to
adhesive
may
any difficulty whatever but it is true that none of them have been taken into that lasting favour which is generally accorded to inventions which are truly useful, because they produce results which are in every way satis;
be found
mixture.
to
bind the
factory to those
who
are induced to
varieties of the
make
trial
of them.
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
brought forward as competitors for public favour, and I may be permitted to explain that by this I mean that although
various machines under different
plied with all the necessary adjuncts,
instructions for
9i
and materials, and
in a
in the
working and carrying out the process, strong box, nicely stained and varnished.
Supposing that a case of the smallest
chased
size
last
few years
reproduction of
is
for
the
first
same in all, and that it is merely in name that they differ, and only partially in that. The process, when described, is simply this The writing is traced on paper with a pen dipped in a particular kind of ink, which may be described as being for the most part some
the
:
is
supplied
This paper
The paper is then laid on a composition familiarly known as a "graph " composition, while the writing is still fresh and moist, and when the paper is removed, after a
aniline dye.
some stencil paper, which must be kept flat and dry, and there is some blotting paper, and some paper also that is specially adapted for use with the Trypograph that is to say, for producing copies by the method of printing that is
There
to
it,
the im-
the stencil paper that has been mentioned is the employed for the purpose of producing the original from which the copies are to be printed, and it is necessary
adopted.
Now
is
paper that
"graph"
" graph
"
in reverse.
now
to see
how this may be done. On looking among the appaboard will be found, slightly sloping towards
This board
is
From
this
ratus, a small
one
after
about 7 inches by 5J
is
another
but, as
may be
easily supposed,
every successive
and
is
4h inches by
in
3 T ff inches,
whose surface
"graph"
cases, the
in
many
file.
A stylus,
In
number are blurred and indistinct owing to want of care or want of skill on the part of the operator at the very commencement of the operation of printing off the impressions.
paper must
is
now be
it
on which
it
The
stylus
The
which
ever)'
member
of
"graphs" maybe considered to fail, is in its manifest ability to furnish any number of impressions of equal clearness and depth of tone throughout and, secondly,
the large family of
;
pen
is
rence
namely,
made with a
firm
and equal
The
action of the
stylus, in conjunction
been printed
is
is
it
is
Each
part of
and partly because, when done with, the ink must be washed off the "graph" to bring the latter
ink has
dry,
become
brought in turn
that
it
may be
necessary to place upon it. These manifest defects appear to have been completely overcome in the Trypograph (Zuccato's Patent), manufactured and sold by Messrs. Zuccato and Wolff, 15, Charter-
A
which
further search
among
raised
house Street, Holborn Viaduct, London, E.C. I will now endeavour to describe both the process and the apparatus for the information of such of my readers who are not acquainted with them. With regard to the apparatus, this is made in
different classes
and
in different sizes.
classes,
known
in Class
as Class
A and Class B. The machines composed A are made to print quarto (10 inches by %\ inches),
by 8J
inches), post folio
The inner pieces are top and two at the bottom. and form, with the wooden sides, the solid part of the upper frame ; the outer pieces are moveable on pins, passat the
fixed,
left
(16J inches by ioi inches), and brief or even larger sizes, these last being
hand
in their place
when
6s. to
shown
in the illustration.
The
stencil-sheet
Those comprised in Class B are made to print 8vo (6j inches by i,% inches), or any smaller size, quarto (%\ inches by ~j\ inches), foolscap (12J inches by li inches), and post folio (17 inches by aj inches), being
sold at prices ranging
to size.
being held tightly between the brass plates at top and bottom, as shown in Fig. 1, and the piece of paper on which
the impression
is
to be taken
is
laid
it,
from^i
lis. 6d. to
5s.,
according
the actual
in-
The
being held firmly in position by the pressure of the fixed pieces of brass that form the top and bottom of the upper
frame.
The machines
cluded in Class
are
more
substantial,
in Class B,
are sufficient
is
The stencil, and the paper on which the impression is be made, being duly placed in position, the next thing consider is how the process of printing is effected. For
which require notice
:
home
purposes.
Each apparatus
sup-
the
first
02
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
;
as a description
of the process
it.
and the mode of have not touched on, but these will be
it
in
In
of apparatus.
from the ample instructions that are sent out with every Sufficient has been said to show the modus
addition to these
the scraper
is
placed
when
not in use.
Trypograph over
it,
all
Everything being
for
now
ready
or, as I
may be allowed
I
to express
the
process
is
of
printing,
in
in " graph."
the
scraper
left
taken
the
Of books
month
first
am
asked
two.
this
right or
hand, as
may be
to
notice
is
The
by
of
these
published
Messrs. Crosby
Co.,
7,
Lockwood and
Hall Court,
The
ink
penetrates
in the
Stationers'
action
corrugated
Series,"
6d.,
the
price
in.
being
Is.
in.
,
by
4J-
an
impression
on
paper
below.
This sheet
its
is
The book
is
put in
before.
place,
"
The
how
to Calculate
maximum
of
five
thousand copies
is
may
Plasterers',
Plumbers', Painters',
Paperhangers',
Gilders',
for
be printed from
it,
taken being
be easily
Smiths',
Carpenters',
From
that
is
will
Prices
for
all
Work
I
the
The
will
general
title
means employed
clear,
have given
sufficiently
having reached
its
a sixth edition
be ample testimony to
it
utility,
and
will
wanting
Amateurs
The Trypograph
is
as the
of great use to
them
for all
in considering the
charges of
patentees claim
reliable,
It is
for
their
meritorious
invention,
cheap,
builders and
workmen
and
cleanly,
work
it
by which printing
will
capable of producing
times the
number of impressions
and thus
of any
overcharge.
My
last
who
modestly
of <) for
sought to relieve
me
of printing.
The
rate
of pro-
duction of impressions
course depend on the
may be
money.
skill
some work, which, when valued at its utmost, was worth not a fraction more than half the
I
As may be supposed,
declined to be plundered
at this rate,
The
stencil
and submitted the matter to a surveyor, who reduced the amount of the account by 4, and my hungry
friend not only
that
may
be required.
as stencil paper,
satisfied
The
before
me
168,
is
paper specially
"The
Boston,
Wheelman Company,"
Massachusetts,
it is
upon another.
and published in this country by Messrs. Iliffe and Son, 12, Smilhford Street, Coventry, from whom all information respecting the work may be obtained.
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
The
price in
93
America
and
It is
is
two
it is
dollars per
its
cents, a
number, so I presume
is.,
price per
be iod. or
lence of
its
this
is left. This is the double rebating used in making the bars of sash frames.
subject matter
Now
adapted
an inspection of Fig. 2
will
illustrations.
contains
varied,
eighty pages.
The
two
and
consist of articles
in the form of A,
slide
and two
in
the form of B.
to
it,
mostly
The
illustrations,
the cutting-iron
and by means of
selves
them-
" A 'Wheel Round the Hub,'' are twenty-six in number. The magazine
is
inserted in
may be
at
adjusted
to
any
distance
Mr.
A.
S.
Lunt,
Cutlery
Saw,
FIG. 5.
which it is possible or desirable to work the tool. For cutting a rebate, such as
Plane, Tool,
and
Manu-
facturer, 297,
Hackney Road, London, E., has sent me a tool which will prove of great value to all amateur woodworkers. It is one of the numerous progeny that find their original type, as far as form and mode of using are concerned, in the old spokeshave and drawing-knife, being an ingenious adaptation of the principle on which these tools are constructed. It is called the " Improved Circular Rabbeting and Fillister Router," and its purpose
is
is
is shown in Fig. 3, the fence adjusted to slide along the edge of the bar, in which no
rebate
is
then
moved up
to the
edge that
is
to be rebated,
cutting-iron, so that
into operation
no more of the edge may be brought beyond that portion which corresponds to the
If another rebate
is
required
on the other
operation
is
side, as at
is
sufficiently
implied by
its
name.
It
illustrated in Fig. 2, to
which
I shall
carried out
on the opposite
refer
side as before,
rebate.
thus
an
FIG.
The
the
is
part
which
is
turned towards
is
with which
to
furnished.
It
has,
in fact, as
fences, as
shown
in the representation
be used
felt
either
the
wood
being rebated.
fillister, or,
fillister
will
have
will
the difficulty of
For cutting a
strip of
or cutting-iron so as to
work
with the ordinary rebate plane used for this purpose, and
many
way
have solved
in
it
on top of another
piece projects for a
such a
dis-
wood
in
tance beyond
to
be made.
of the
upper
along
piece,
its
thus
forming
the
The
relative
positions
length
the step-like
and the
B,
depression to which
term fig. 6
rabbet or rebate
is
applied.
To
to
ADJUSTMENT OF ROUTER FOR GROOVING FILLISTER. wood, are shown and D, in Fig. 6,
those beginners
in
at A,
c,
the cuttingis
perfectly clear
being cut.
not exactly comprehend what a rebate is, suppose that Figs. 3 and 4 represent sections of a wooden Now when the rectanbar, or piece of wood of any kind.
length of the piece of wood, the
The
As
it
| inch,
is
manifest that
removed along the whole is said to be rebated. It has been cut indeed after the manner of the underpart of the moulding of a picture frame, and a depression is produced, into which anything may be dropped, as the glass,
gular portion marked
in Fig. 3
is
inch.
for
It is
same width, or any width under J not so accommodating in the matter of grooving,
its
wood
own
width.
even with
it
its
with a
little
contrivance,
picture,
and backboard into the rebating of the picture frame when complete. When a piece of wood is rebated on both sides, as by the removal of the rectangular pieces B and C in
is
its
capabilities.
94
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
IN COUNCIL.
Banjo Making:. A. M. (Ardislaw). Never having made a banjo I cannot give instructions how to make one. The best banjos in the world are the five-stringed Stewart banjos which require expensive machinery, and could not be made by anamateur. Theyare sold in this country only by Mr. J. E. Brewster, ofj 20, Oxford Street, who would give you the lessons you require by his lightning American system, without notes or music,
.ffiolian
is
AMATEURS
[The Editor reserves to himself the right of refusing a reply to any question that may be frivolous or Inappropriate, or devoid of general Interest. Correspondents are requested zo bear In mind that their queries will be answered only in the pages of the Magazine, ihe information songht being supplied for the benertt of its readers generally aa well as for those who have a special Interest in obtaining It. In no case can any reply be sent by post.]
***
larger instruments will be given in the later chapters of tbis series of articles. Poor Old Music If you require another
TO MY READERS. By
of all
one
of those unfortunate mishaps which will sometimes occur in spite of the vigilance
are chiefly concerned in the production of printed matter, a dislocation of type, as it may be termed, occurred in page 20, in Part XII. of this Mag-azine,
Harps.
and care
who
we may
of -ffiolian
which, by breaking the natural sequence of the test, went far to spoil the paper on "Overglaze Painting on Porcelain," by If the line, " What to Aurelio de Vega. Undertake. If, however, the work be," now at the top of the first column of page 20, be transferred to the bottom of the second column of the same page, the text will read The publishers have caused correctly. cancel pages of pages 19 and 20 to be printed, forwarded to any subscriber will be which who may care to apply for them.
Organ Building.
(Reigate). The straight part of the languid should be I of the inner circumference of the pipe, but it does not matter mucb if it is taken on the outside, provided you adhere to the same rule with all the rest of the stop. The triangular piece is cut out of the lower languid, merely that it may not interfere with the windway and need to be of a particular size. The piece cut out of the tube is to be 1 inch in height for the trial pipe, not 1 inch in length of side of the triangle.
"W. G.
W.
stop on your small organ your best plan will be to add a principal throughout, that is a set of pipes sounding the octave above those which you have already made. Tbis will give brilliancy to your organ. The longest pipe will be 4 feet and the shortest 2\ inches (approximately) Follow the instructions for making the flute stop given in Part 12; and as regards the other portions of the iustrument full instructions will be given in Part 14 for makiuff sound-boards, and you will do well to adopt the one with the 12 bass channels placed at the back as will there 'Jbe described. All other details will follow in due
.
course.
Sale of Fret-work.
E. M. (Boa-moor). I regret very much that I cannot tell you where you may find a sale for your fret- work. Possibly you might be able to make arrangements with some local dealer in fancy goods. W. 8. (Newcastle-on-Tyne). With the multiplicity of subjects on hand it is not ppssible to give a series of papers on Model Ship Building at present. You can purchase all the small fittings for model ships from two firms dealing in articles of this description that are mentioned in "Notes on Novelties," in Part XII.
The
open diapason only extends to Tenor C, conis only 4 feet long as stated. The term "small scale," as applied to any stop, refers to the diameter
J. K. (Jedburgh). Instructions as to attaching pedals to a pianoforte may, perhaps, be given at a future time. H. E. H. (London). An organ with full compass pedals could not very well be blown by the foot when using the pedals, though a foot blower may be attached for convenience when not using them. A. Gill. (Glasgow). I have given no instructions which have not been proved by myself and found to answer well, and I have made over 300 pipes of all sizes in As regards the length of your trial I aper.
pipe,
you
on
Type Metal. Among the early printers Gemarst. lead was chiefly employed for type metal on account of its softness, but this was soon found to be a disadvantage, and a small quantity of iron was added to the lead in order to harden it. Kegulus of antimony is now added to the lead for this purpose instead of iron. The proportion used to form an alloy for small types is one part of regulus of antimony to three parts of lead,
for the larger types, about three parts of the former to seventeen parts of the latter are used.
Shampooing Mixture.
E. B. (Tltanct) writes : As a shampooing mixture A. H. R. D. G. will find a
J.
pennyworth of salts of tartar, dissolved in two quarts of warm water, all that need be
wished, if he tequires it for his own use. If however, he wishes to make a mixture to advertise and sell, the above will not answer, the salts of tartar having the property of absorbing moisture so rapidly from the air, as to became useless when exposed. [No queries of this nature will be noticed in future in Amateur "Woke, Illustrated. Ed.]. Ferneries. "W. Edmead. An illustrated article, the first of a series on this subject, is in type, and will appear in an early part.
and never to the length. The pipe of the principal is 4 feet long, and thus sounds an octave higher than the stopt diapason, or the same note as the Tenor C open diapason; the flageolet sounds 2 octaves higher than the unison pipes. Yon will get the scale of the lowest octave of the stopt diapason by setting off a line 4 feet G inches long, and dividing the upper 2 feet portions into 12 parts, as shown in the scale already given, but setting off the diameter, viz., 3| inches, instead of 2\ inches, as shown on the top cross line, and draw the sloping line down to the point as usual. C. H. B. (Oldham). We are sorry your query has been overlooked. It is not necessary to use mahogany for the blocks of the pipes, as pine answers just as well if faced on the front with thin mahogany. As regards squaring the blocks, use a small square to test them with while planing up. J. H. H. (New Normanton). I do not think you quite comprehend that though the pipes of each stop, except the flageolet, run to 4 feet long, they differ in .diameter for each stop. For instance, the CC in the principal will be the diameter of the Tenor Cs of the open diapason. The Tenor C of the keraulophon will be the same diameter as the Fs above it in the open diapason, thus making it 6 scales smaller than that stop, and 5 scales smaller than the CC of the principal. If the open diapason were carried right through, the longest pipe, viz., CC would be 8 feet long, the same with the keraulophon, hence tbey are termed stops of 8 feet tone. See also reply to Eighteen
of the pipes,
CC
to be cut down until it speaks rather too sharp a note, and as yours is a tone flat it is plain that it is too long.
page 25 that
now
On page 27 you will find that thelengthsare given as "approximate," but that word should have been placed over the columns showing the lengths both of i he shortest and longest pipes. It is impossible and inadvisable to give scales that would show the speaking lengths exactly, as the smallest error in the diameters would throw them out. A small scaled pipe would be slightly longer than a large scaled one to speak the same note, and it is alwaj s the rule to make pipes longer than tbe true speaking length, to allow for trimming down. The pitch of a pipe rises with increased pressure of wind, consequently wood pipes should not be cut down until tested on their own sound-board with tbe proper pressure. In the paper pipes it does not matter if they are a little too short, as they can be lengthened by the tuning piece. As regards kuskioess, perhaps you have not trimmed off the little piece on each side of the mouth to make it level with the ears, or you may have left burrs in the voicing. The voicing should be diagonal. With regard to tbe stopt pipe, as you say it sounds well as an open one, it is clear that the upper lip is too far in, it should project beyond the front of the windway as shown in Fig. 15. Take the upper lip off andplace a piece of stout cardboard under it and then bind it on but do not let the card come right to the bottom of the lip. I think you will find the pipe will then sound properly, but you must not expect it to be nearly so loud as an open one. All pipes, both open and stopt, except the largest onts, should sound well by only gently blowing into them. The ears make a great difference in the fulness of the tone, especially in a stopt pipe.
,
AMATEURS IN
C. T. H. (Retford) is thanked for his suggestion in reference to supplying drawings to scale for the different portions of the organ, but he will find that his desires are already anticipated. The articles on this subject will be the most complete, both in this respect and as regards tbe general requirements of amateurs that have ever been published foe their use. A. W. (Croydon.;. If you have read the articles carefully you would have understood that the reason the channels at the right hand of the sound-board are larger than the centre ones is, because some of the bass pipes stand on the right hand of the organ. The small channels are for the treble pipes, which do not require so much wind as large ones. If you have not made the sound-board yet, I strongly advise you to follow the directions which will be given in an early Part. J. B. (Tyldesley) writes, I have read your articles and notes on organ building with much interest, and if it will interest you or any of my fellow-readers, I may inform you that I have almost completed an addition to my harmoniufn of sixty -one pipes, or the whole compass of the manual. The pipes are all made from cardboard, such as collar boxes, umbrella boxes, etc., which I get from the drapers, and in the absence of a scale I made them as best I could, starting with the smallest ones first. The double C comes out 30 in. long and 3 in. square, as yours,
COUNCIL.
95
the latter are fully appreciated. Our esteemed correspondent suggests a plate of designs for wall or house decoration, such as a design for a lobby, a parlour or a stairand wishes to know where he can case obtain stamped designs for house decoration, and at what cost ? He also thinks the supplement on Stencilling given with our June part a very useful one to amateursThe particulars concerning "scumbling" shall be given in due course. Have you any wrinkles to give us on the subject ?
;
you
and we shall be glad to hear from any time. "We cannot at all under, stand how a stench could have beeu given off from Dale's Granule battery. "We have a large one of S cells, gallon size, in our laboratory, and have not once detected any unpleasant odour from it. Do not fail to ask any question that may trouble you at any future time. Christmas. (Gateshead). We do not know of any cheap good book on medical coils. See answer to A. B. {New Dahnamock Road) in page 97, G. M. P. "We are pleased to hear of yonr success with the Ehumkorff coil, and still more to knew that you have derived some assistance from our pages. It is our intention to describe the manufacture of small dynamo electric machines when we can find space for the articles. The work may be described as ultra-amateur in its scope, and must
at
Luminous
Paint.
therefore wait until after the disposal of easier subjects. are already accused of being too far in advance of our readers. (Sittingbourne) are sorry J. J. K. S. to hear of your failure, but at the same time think it due to your own inability to understand Mr. Edwinson's articles. For instance you complain that he has not given the quantity of wire required on the legs of the
We
We
bell
magnet. In page 324, he distinctly mentions three layers of wire as being required on each bobbin. Again you say that he has not mentioned the quantity of manganese required for each cell, nor the necessary thickness of each carbon. True, the exact quantity by weight is not given, because the author could not be sure of the size cell used by amateurs, and the same remark applies to the thickness of the carbon strip. It was thought best to give the
general principles of construction rather tie the amateur down'to hard and fast quantities except in the proportionate parts. Ton also complaia that he has not given the amateur "some idea of the probable cost of materials," this shows that you have not read the articles carefully, or you would not have failed to have noticed the prices and probable cost of each article as
Watchdog
than
might rent a room or workshop centrally situated, where practice might be obtained; and I would undertake to teach those parts
appertainingto carpentering, or joiners, with rudiments of the allied trades of bricklaying, etc , or would find competent teachers for those trades.
.
mentioned. Others have succeeded where you have failed, so do not be discouraged. Mr. Edwinson has promised a closer attention to detail in future articles on the subject, and to make amends begs to inform you that the quantity of wire on each bobbin will depend on the length and stoutness of the bobbin, probably two properly made bobbins for a 2i inch bell will hold from 2\ to 3 ounces of wire. The thickness of the carbon strip may be anything between \ inch and 1 inch, the first preferably. A pint cell will hold about \ pound of manganese and \ pound of broken carbon. Price of wire about 8d. or 0d. per ounce ; price of manganese, 6d. per pound ; broken carbon, 6.1. per pound carbon strip 5 inches by 2 inches, 7d. The sixth article on Electric
;
Casting in Plaster of Paris. W. (Clapham) writes, In taking moulds in plaster where quickness is an advantage, there are two methods which may First, alum water, the be employed. strength of which can be varied, a saturate
C. E.
Electrical Matters, Electeifed Lawtee. Kindly accept our best thank3 for your welcome letter. Both lamps display much ingenuity on the part of their designer and maker, and we are pleased to hear of your success. It is quite
Bells fully explains most faults likely to occur; read that, and, if possible, your difficulty shall be got over, and if you still
fail
solution hardening plaster in about three minutes ; and, second, a more economical plan (the materials always being at hand where plaster is being used) is to take a piece of hard and dry plaster, scrape to a fine powder, and use about a dessert-spoonful to a pint of water. The latter is perhaps not so rapid in its action as the alum, but is the better till one has become used to working quickly. I need scarcely add that the plaster is mixed in the usual way, allowing for rapidity in setting.
to
make your
Suggestion foi Supplement. John Marsween {Tlmr&o,. Many thanks for your kind suggestions and wishes. The
former shall receive our best attention, and
Booth's Mitre Cutting Machine. P {Cinderford) These can be procured by order through any ironmonger. If you find any difficulty write direct to Messrs R. Melhuish & Sons, 85 and 87, Fitter Lane, London, E.C, or to Mr. Thomas J. riyer, 1,
T.
.
Finsbury
London, E.C.
96
Bookbinder's Sewing Press.
G. (Scarborough) writes, As some readers of the bookbinding articles in
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
and Fitzroy, the inventor of a barometer bearing his name, both experimented and examined this instrument, and the results were found to be very considerable variations in the composition of the cry stalli sable fluid with various makers, some of the tubes not sealed at all. In proof and support of this, P. D. has only to look in the window of any optician's shop where these instruments are hanging, aDd there being half a dozen or more in a row, eaoh one will give different indications to the others. Now which could he select?
together, to all appearance like one wire. To connect up, join the two ends of the one wire to the bell and battery switches, as
W.
shown
in Fig. 15,
I.,
and
to
which
is
take the place of your gas or water-pipes; join up direct the three wires of each station leading from the bell, the telephone and the battery zinc that is to say, the wires leading to the gas-pipe marked k in the
same
figure.
W.
Telephones.
E. A. P. (Sunder land ). I only mentioned insulated or covered wires because my description applied principally to telephones placed in the house, or at a short distance apart from each other. It would certainly
be more economical for long distances out of doors, to uBe ordinary galvanized wire similar to that used by the telephone companies, but you must thoroughly insulate it, as they do, at all its support*, keeping it
objects,
quite clear from roofs, gutters, or any like and then there is not the slightest
reason why you should not succeed even for a distance of a quarter of a mile. G. A. M. B. (Langham) . Messrs. H. & E. Dale, 4, Little Britain, London, will [supply you with No. 3t> silk covered wire at Is. per ounce, and magnets from 1b. 6d. to 3s. per
Mr. Edwinson has, I think, promised a paper on " Electric Motors," see page497,
pair.
last
volume
of
Amateur Work,
Illus-
TBaTED.
"W. E. F. (Burford). Your failing to send a battery current through the wire of your bobbin shows, without doubt, that the wire is broken. You must unwind it and examine carefully every part, when most likely you will discover the place by the frayed appearance of the silk. The fracture can then be easily remedied by baring and scraping the broken ends, twisting them well together, and then re-covering them with some silken thread or fine narrow ribbon. Should, however, as it sometimes happens, the fracture not show itself, the best way is to gently scrape off the silk at one or two
Storm-Glass.
J. P. F. (Brixton)
writes,
In
answer to
P. D., who wishes to make a storm glass, I think were he to attempt it the result would only be labour in vain, for in not one case in a dozen can they even the manufactured ones be depended upon as the indicators of a coming storm or atmospheric disturbance. I cannot give him the exact parts or quantities of each ingredient, but the composition is camphor, nitre, and sal-ammoniac, partly dissolved by alcohol with water and some air ; this is placed in a glass tube, corked in and sealing waxed over, and hung upjeither out or in doors, usually indoors, either near a window or in a passage. They are supposed Fine to give the following indications weatlier. The substance remains entirely at bottom of tube, and the liquid perfectly
Substance will rise gradually, liquid will be very clear with a motion. A coming storm, or star in small very high, wind. Substance partly at top of tube, and be of a leaf- like form, liquid very heavy and in a fermenting state. These effects are noticeable twenty-four hours before the change sets in.la Winter. Generally the substance lies higher in the tube. Snoic or white frost. Substance very white, and small stars in motion. Summer weather. The substance will he quite low. The substance will lie closer to the tube on the opposite side to the quarter from which the Professor Tomlinson, storm is coming.
cleir.
Coming
rain.
and then from there test the wire each way with the battery until you have so far localized the spot to within a short piece of the wire, cut this out altogether and splice the remaining good lengths. It seems strange that both your bobbins Bhould prove faulty in the same manner and you must either have purchased damaged wire or else in winding it have pulled it too tight, or got it into sharp kinks. As you have a battery you should test it before winding and are you sure that you applied the battery correctly, so that the fault does not lie there ? The reel being of pasteboard in place of wood, would not make any
places,
; ;
Doll's House. J. H. (Blackpool). I regret very much that you and your friends have been kept waiting. As soon as the promised article
and
illustrations
reach
me
they
shall
appear, I can name no definite time. J. F. (Goodge Street, .). See preceding
reply.
Home-Made
you mention
Furniture. There
will
difference.
connect up your two any earth is by no means you think, but since you do not employ the earth to conduct your current, you must have a second line wire in its place. The two wires can be laid
stations without
J. C. (Malvern). To
so complicated as
be nothing in the way of Home-Made Furni. ture left untouched in Amateur "Work, Illustrated. You will find the articles on Decorative Carpentry useful and suggestive.
Harmonium
Building.
along side one another, being of course insulated, and for indoor work you can obtain from Messrs. Dale, at Id. per yard, both the wires insulated from each other, but woven
R. H. (Islington). In the reply given to you on this subject it was stated that " the spring for the reservoir may be half a chair spring," whereas it should read "a whole chair spring."
AMATEURS IN
Boat Building Made Easy.
(Norwegian Fishings Boat) the divisions between the side boards should, of course, he continued to the extreme front. The stem-piece is not fastened to the ends of these hoards ; they embrace it. The mistake can easily be remedied with a fine pen.
(.Erratum).
COUNCIL.
97
Pianoforte Making. J.W. (Nottingham). Articles will be given in due time on this subject, from which you may leam how to construct this instrument. The iron framework that you have made for supports at back and for the strings, weighing three hundredweight,
is
In Fig.
19
Co., must follow the bent of their own peculiar inclinations. As the price was not stated on the specimen sent to me, the best
H. S. (St. Catherine's). (1) The side planks are nailed on the stem and stern-pieces. Fig". 19 is wrong, in not having the divisions between the planks continued to the very front of the boat. (2) If the gunwales are used for laying on the floor uuder the sections, for which I say they will answer very well, it is plain it is only temporarily. Any stiff pieces of wood will do, and, as I say on p. 435, probably it would be well to have these deeper than the gunwales. (3 and 4) Fall directions are given for cutting beds for the keel-board in the stem and sternpieces ; for fastening the keel plank into these beds for fastening the edges of the "bottom pair of planks outside the edges of the keel plank for filling the space between the edges of the bottom pair of planks with tar; and, lastly, for nailing on an outside keel plank, which should of course be the same thickness as the others. (5) The
; ;
thing that I could do in the interest both of Messrs. B. F. Brown & Co., and the readers of this magazine, was to say as I did, " I am unable to state the price per bottle, whichl regret, as the preparation is clearly a most useful one, but a post card to Messrs. B. F. Brown & Co., whose address I have given, will soon elicit the desired information." In their reply to J. T. F. these gentlemen write: " "We beg to say the notice in AaiiTEUB Work. Illtjstkatkd, being inserted without beiug submitted to us, otherwise it would not have stated that we could send same through post." I daresay my readers will comprehend Messrs. B. F. Brown & Co.'s meaning, despite the haze of the expression that envelopes the whole sentence which I have given verbatim. What I said was that the Bronze could be sent by post, " as it is supplied in a tightly- corked wide-mouthed bottle, which is enclosed in a neat case." I may add now that I never
unnecessarily
Drilling Holes In Glass. A. Boyle. Holes for ventilation in a bell glass for covering ferns may be bored with a
drill.
Messrs. Churchill
&
Finsoury, or any ironmonger, will supply you with one suitable for the purpose; or you may get the holes pierced by any one
glass.
A contributor to
Magazine is engaged on articles on this subject, which will appear in due time.
this
Instructions for bronzing a plaster cast will also be given. Yigilans. See preceding reply.
my notices of articles to any makers or sellers of the same, whether wholesale or retail, and, further, that I do not think it
submit
will advance the sale of any preparation to send it out without price, and leave it to the retail dealer to ask just what he pleases for it. It may be to the advantage of Messrs. B. F. Brown & Co. to do so, and it certainly must be to the advantage of the retail dealers to sell on these terms, inasmuch as they can ask just what they please; but buyers will assuredly be somewhat astonished if they find themselves charged Is. at one shop and Is. 6d. at another (only 50 per cent difference ) for one and the same article.
!
do for a 12-foot boat, but it will be needlessly broad. (6) I cannot advise you about the linseed oil and Archangel tar. Any painter should be able to
will
tell
same beam
Noel. You will see that a series of papers on this Bubject is commenced in this Part, and from these papers and the advertisements that appear from time to time in the Magazine, you will gather all necessary information with regard to the modus operandi, and the apparatus and the appliances required. The " Trypograph,"
about which you ask, is also noticed in " Notes and Novelties " in this Part. It is a most useful apparatus, and if you are inclined to try it you would find it most helpful for the purposes of which you speak in connection with your missionary work in India, in whish I need hardly say I wish you God speed. You can rej>roduce and multiply copies of any written document, both easily and quickly, by the aid of the Trypograph.
you.
Mounting Maps.
L. H. (Limerick) An article on this sub ject from the pen of Mr. John Brion, Constructor of B.elievo Maps to H.E.H. the late Prince Consort, will appear shortly.
.
To remove stains
two
J. T.
these ingredients well together in a mortar, sift through a very fine sieve, and mix the powder obtained into a paste with water. Bub well all over the marble, and then wash with soap and water, or mix strong soap lees with quick lime to the consistence of thin cream. Spread the mixture over the marble and after the lapse of twenty-four hour3 wash with soap and water. This will remove stains and restore the colour,
Hub
tributions and suggestions shall appear together in the form of a paper. I am glad to receive any thing from your pen, but could
not you put your communications in the form of articles ready for the printers ? It takes time to put them into shape, and hence the delay which I fear is as disappointing and annoying to you as it is unsatisfactory to
W.
B.
me.
etc.
Marquetry Work,
Impkovee.
Sale
C. T. (Bejent Street).
seen
from Part XII. that your request has been practically complied with. The rate of charges for notices you will find in the *' Rules and General Directions."
American Bronze.
J. T. F. (Brixton), in accordance
with the
suggestion made in my notice of this material in " Notes on Novelties," wrote to Messrs. B. F. Brown & Co., of 18. and 20, Norman's Buildings, St. Luke's, to ask the price per bottle. It appeirs from their reply to J. T. F., that Messrs. Brown & Co. only do a wholesale trade, and do not supply the p-ublic either by post or parcel, and they further state that the applicant may ** obtain the bronze through his chemist or bootmaker, and will cost him about Is. tols.6d." Everybody knows his own business best, without doubt, and Messrs. B. F. Brown and
on this kind of on Parquetry, Buhl-work, will be given in due course in this etc., Magazine. As a practical and professional carpenter, you should provide yourself with such books as Tredgold and Hurst's 'Carpentry," published by Spon. You will also find many books in " Weale's Rudimentary and Scientific Series," published by Messrs. Crosby Lockwood & Co., that will help you. I know of no professional works on the subjects you mention. I think if you look again at our articles on woodwork, that the fitting material to use is generally, if not always, mentioned. It would not answer to keep butterflies and moths in such a combined aquarium and fernery as yon mention, the poor insects would soon worry themselves to death,
work, as well as
beating against the regain their liberty.
glass,
Instructions
on panels. These, however, are for the most part but small, and for many years panels have been superseded by prepared mill-boards. The paint now on the panels should be cleared off with Rendle's Electric Paint Remover, and a perfectly smooth surface produced with glass paper. A suitable ground tint should then be applied, on which the design may be painted. The colours, varnish, and appliances to be used are those which are sold by any artists' colourman
of great value are painted
Optical Instruments. A. B. (New Dalmarnock Road). A gentleman offered to supply instructions on making Telescopes, Microscopes, etc., but I have heard nothing from him since his proposals were accepted. A paper on the method of making a small medical coil will appear shortly, and I have good hopes that arrangements will soon be completed for papers giving instruction in smith's work and metal working for amateurs.
in trying
to
Picture-Frame Making.
Hakry. Articles on
been received, and
will
this
subject have
Substitute for Reed Plane. W. S. (Beith) is thanked for his communication on this subject, which will appear in the next Part of Amateur Work,, Illustrated.
98
AMATEURS IN
plate by
COUNCIL.
Hints to BicycliBts.
B. S. (South Hampstead) writes in reference to the above subject I think Mr. Fitton's remarks as to the straightening of a buckled wheel are likely to ike a bicyclist diffident of tri ing to strengthen one unless
:
Amateur Work. E.H. (Swaffham). Thank youforyour good opinion of the Magazine. Tour sugC.
gestion shall be carefully considered and acted upon, as far as it is possible to do so but some ask for working drawings, full size, of bookcases and other large articles, declaring that they cannot lead drawings
;
to scale
Bicycles v. Tricycles.
of the papers on "Velocipedes" thinks that as
aud therefore
desirable than bicycles, that attention Bhould first be paid to these as a means of locomotion. After the method of build-
more
itself, than if used as sent out by the maker. The focus will be longer, often twice the length, as when combined, and a much smaller stop will have to be used. The two above reasons will point to the fact that the exposure will have to be prolonged. If you write to any of the firms whose advertisements appear in the advertising pages of this Magazine, or have been mentioned in the articles on " Photography" and " Notes on Novelties," yon would doubtless receive at once some photos, both grateful and pleasing as studies for you to endeavour to repeat.
ing a tricycle has been explained bicycle making shall be taken up.
W.
Part.
B. (Bamsburij Road).
Old Coin, A. L. D. (Dublin), in reply to W. M. on this subject, says that he had a similar coin in his possession some time ago, with a large ship on one side of it, aud that he could make out on it the words " Liverpool Halfpenny," and the figure 17, part of the
date.
he has three more to help him, while I know from personal experience that it may he easily straightened by two. Gas Making: at Home. W. M. B. (Winterbourne-Monkton).An inquiry shall be made on the subject of the advertisement sent, and if the invention appears to he useful, a notice of it shall be given. The cost of the gas, however, is 4s. 6d. per thousand, which is above the rates charged by most gas companies. PolUhing Marble. A. B. (Shirlock Road, Kentish 7own). The slab must be laid flat, and first ground smooth with sand and water, by means of a
The
actual polish
must
Coach Building.
E. E. L. (Rathmines) . I had an offer of articles on this subject, which was duly accepted but, as in other cases, I have heard nothing whatever from the intending contributor since. I shall be glad to entertain further proposals on this subject from competent persons.
;
Bombex writes in answer to W. M. (Manningham) The coin named is most likely a " halfpenny token" probably a Liverpool token as coins of this nature were current in this town at the beginning of present century especially with a ship on one side of the coin. Many " tokens " were in use iu Liverpool at the time named, the chief part of them being issued by well-to-do shop:
powder"
fine
(its
chief ingredient,
we
believe,
emery}. A piece of wood, over which has been stretched an extremely thick felt, sold for the purpose, is used for rubbing the preparation on the face of the marble. The
addition cf a little salt of sorrel (oxalate of potash) brings the polish more quickly, but must be used with caution on black or coloured marbles. A. B. will fiud polishing marble a fine field in which to exercise the virtue of patience.
I construct a Model Electric Railway not to exceed 1 foot in length, to carry battery, if possible,
Dining Table.
B. E. (Taunton). I fail to understand from your letter if you wish for instructions on making a dining table, or propose to write an article on the subject. If the latter I shall be glad. You can advertise your lathe for sale in the " Sale, Purchase, and Exchange Sheet."
storekeepers, and others, who changed them for silver. The issue also acted, and that very efficiently, as an adverkeepers,
W.
M.*s coin
is
New
Bookbinding.
W.
page 471 correctly Each sheet, although sewn as one for the time being, forms only
part or section of the entire book. The thread must be continuous from the first to the last sheet, joining a new thread as the last or old one is expended. Please read page 471 more closely, and if not understood let me know again. Instructions for binding first vol. of AiiATEDK. Woek will be given in next paper.
Brunswick halfpenny token. Brown Stain for Wood. An Art Student writes: For brown stain use permanganate of potash an ounce costs less than sixpence, and makes a quart of stain. Plain boiling water is poured on it. It may be varnished, and afterwards polished with beeswax and turpentine. I have used it, and find it answers well. An old brush should be used, as the brush is quite spoilt
;
dirty,
W. J. (Bristol) wishes for a receipt for bleaching coral. He has a piece that is very and apparently wishes to clean it.
K.
J. T. (Longtown) writes
cradle, I
: Having to
make a
should be
of
any correspondent
to
W.
Illustrated, who could give an idea how make it go, either tcith clockwork or springs, or to work as a crib without rockers, and to be a little distance off the ground. D. H. (Rio de Janeiro) writes I wish, if possible, to construct an artificial incubator for raising poultry, hut never having seen one, or even a description of one, I am at a loss how to proceed. Perhaps some of my fellow-exiles would welcome a plain
:
H- See prospectus
Photography.
(Cornwall). Judging from your letter, I should say dry plates would suit yon better than the wet process with these plates ; the development is deepened till the operator returns home but if E. P. will forward his address, I will send him sketch for a changing box and dark tent combined,
Amateur Work,
Part XI.
description, giving all necessary details as to means of heating, regulation and tem-
E.
P.
This magazine will be continued from month to month and from year to year, as long as any demand for it exists.
perature. [This is a matter which deserves attention, and on which I shall be glad to receive papers and communications. Ed.] T. L. M. C. (Kilkenny) wishes to know
Copying Letters. (Tewkesbury), Your request with regard to furniture that may be made at home
S. S.
Double dark
slides
shall receive attention. For copying letters yon must write with copying ink and use
are generally used, and six of these slides carry twelve plates, enough for an ordinary day's work. A half-plate lens will not produce a whole-plate negative, although a whole-plate camera is used, any more than a cannon-ball will fit a pistol. But it often happens that the back combination of a lens will take, or rather cover a much larger
the ordinary copying press, but for the reproduction and multiplication of written documents, you may use one of the "Graphs" or the " Trypograph," manufactured and sold by Messrs. Zuccato and Wolff, 15, Charterhouse Street, Holborn Viad-tct, E.C., and described in " Notes on Novelties" in
this Part.
the price at which a phonograph can be purchased and seeks instructions for making one. The method of making an instantaneous shutter for camera will be described in an early Part. C. L. (Aden) wishes for some instructions in working amber. He desires to reduce a mouthpiece for a pipe, which is too thick, but fears to remove the polished surface. Etching wishes to know how he can/rosf, i.e., engrave wine glasses and tumblers to resemble ground glass, and produce a monogram on them about the size of a postage stamp.
$9
however, owing to some defects in construction, come into general use, it had a fixed cutter the full length of the board to be planed, and the great advantage
J.
TATLER,
C.E.
claimed for
iron,
it was the mode of adjusting the planewhich could be performed by any one, thus
AVING
will
In a subsequent patent (1793) Sir Samuel Bentham claims the idea of adapting rotative motion of a tool, to give all sorts of substances any shape that may be required, in
fact,
have to perform
moulding,
etc.
detail,
stantially
improved machine of
the present day.
We
means
planes.
of
handof
There are a
great
planes,
number
all
of which
im-
are distinguished by
different
names,
pro-
provements by Bramah and others and if the reader has any further curiosity upon the subject, we must
;
again
the
refer
him
in
to
work
already
mentioned,
which
subat
the straight
he
ject
gone
into
ing
edges
benchtrying-
length.
If the
amateur
in-
jack-plane,
tended
engine,
to
use either a
plane,
plane,
shootinglong-plane,
and
plane.
moo thingThe
is
jackfor
plane
used
ing
comparatively
ing plane
is
longer
on
account
is
of
the
and
it
has
is
two
shoot-
it
necessary that
handles, the
ing-plane
The
fore
one of
it is
not there-
amount of talent and ingenuity has been expended upon the construction of steam planing and moulding machines, and that the work turned out by them with astonishing rapidity far exceeds in quality anything that can be done by hand-planes. The first planing machine on record was the one patented by Sir Samuel Bentham in 1791, it was intended to work by hand-power it did not,
;
revolve and as we are describing machines that can be worked by hand-power, we have not much choice in fact, so far as we are acin planing machines quainted, there is but one machine adapted to work
by hand-power, at
hand or steam-
It
is
As
such as cabinet, pianoforte, and organ buildthe work is performed by a series of fixed
is
not depenis
who,
for
want of time, or
for
want of
skill,
or in the
dering
It will
plane
as
all
by celebrated inventors, of
to every
tools
and machines
it
for
may
set, will
wood
to
seems
same gauge, no
variation being
me
that there
is
room
for
The
that a tool
wood
an adjustable drawer arranged in the table of the machine, the top cutter which planes the upper surface of the wood, is fitted into a block so arranged that it readily adjusts itself to the varying
is
fitted into
One
wood,
fitted
in
is
so
arranged, by
means
fed by
automatically
The wood
to
grip
means of two sets of rollers which and are driven by gear from the motivepower, passing it rapidly between the fixed planes these rollers are adjusted to varying thicknesses by means of the hand-wheel on the top of the machine, the top plane is also adjusted by the same means, the necessary pressure of the plane upon the wood being regulated by the hand-wheel on the side of the
be planed
it
is
tight,
machine, the plane-irons can be taken out for inspection in an instant, without removing any of the other parts. This machine will, it is stated by the inventor, plane wood at the rate of about one hundred and fifty
feet
want of as often as he sets about a little it were only to put up a shelf in the pantry or make a mignonette box for his study window. " We do not like planing. By we, I mean that numerous class of unskilled artisans who sometimes work very hard at play at cricket, for instance and then play at work by way of relief and recreation. We can cross-cut thin boards with our hand-saw, make tolerable mortises with chisel and mallet, let in hinges, use gimlets and bradawls with some dexterity, and drive screws and nails to an unlimited extent. But, as aforesaid, we do not like planing when it becomes necessary to deal with the broad side of a rough board. This is laborious work, requiring the strength and skill of a practised workman and if there be any hard knots in your way, as not unfrequently happens, or a hidden
plete feels the
is
liable to
be put out of
order,
is
lost in
justing
dred feet per minute when driven by steam. The price of the smaller machine, especially adapted to work by hand-power, to plane stuff 3^ inches wide by \\ inches
thick,
is
me that some implement has yet be brought to light which shall render the work of preparing a rough board to receive paint with much
but
to
it
occurs to
less
,45.
hand labour than has now to be applied to it, where the motive-power consists only of the thews and
sinews of a single individual.
" Between the ordinary hand-plane, which cuts away too much, and glass paper, which is too fragile, there is a vacuum what is wanting, and seems to be
;
dency of all fixed cutters being to splinter the wood, the absence of this tendency is one of the advantages
of rotary cutters.
Shill's patent hand or steam-power wood planing machine may be obtained from Messrs. Middleton &
is an instrument combining the merits of both something weighty, like a flat iron, so prepared on its under side as to render it effective to smooth a board on being moved
about over
that of
its
Co.,
Loman
Street,
S.E.
for performing the labois
little more pressure than Will no one invent such an implement for us incapables?"
its
own
Thus
of skill,
far
one that has long been felt by amateurs, and only a few weeks ago the following appeal to engineers to turn their attention to a contrivance for planing, which should supersede the use of the jack-plane and smoothingplane appeared in the Timber Trade? Journal. It is reproduced here, because it is a fair expression of the desire of a very large class of amateur wood-workers,
lity clearly
proceeds from a sinister combination of wan lack of perseverance, and an evident leaning to,
and
far niente. His want, and that of were a matter of Hobson's choice with respect to Shill's small machine for planing, would perforce remain unsatisfied, for there can be but very few who would, or could lay out ,45 for the purpose of planing a piece of wood 3^ inches wide by 1 \ inches
liking for, dolce
many
others,
if it
VIOLIN-MAKING: AS IT WAS,
thick.
It
AND
IS.
said,
and although amateur wood-workers in general have been for some years hoping against hope for a cheap and efficient
planing machine, their natural desire
likely to ripen
is
human
purpose that the elder Tourte, and some of the old bow makers, used to flute their stick over half or throughout their length, often in a most exquisite
manner.
one that
is
If the
latter,
you must
unhair
it
commence by
there
this
is
magazine the
be
fully
Ed.]
VIOLIN-MAKING
Brj
AND
IS.
up pick the wedge N, head wedge-box and pull out the Then take off the band K, Fig. 124, first knot lit. Draw off the plate H I J, pulling out the wedge 0. lift up the ends of the hair L, Fig. 126, pick the wedge N, Fig. 126, out of the nut wedge-box and pull out the knot M. The stick is now clear of hair, wedges, and all, as if it had never been haired, and you can now
Fig. 126, out of the
proceed to hair
it.
The
IT,
out,
in a
mode
Lay
bow,
modern form of bow, as finally determined by Tourte, jun., in its entirety, and Figs. 124 and 125 represent the head and nut, actual size, and Fig. 126, one of the wedge-boxes enlarged. Fig. 1 24 represents the nut and
screw as set on the stick of the bow. In the nut is a small box represented by Fig. 126), into which the knot
1;
the bench and place a heavy weight on out enough for the
pulling
it
Then
take
rest.
You
will
be
M
N\
by means of the wedge The hair L being brought out and along the front
is
fixed
H I j is slid ove along a mortised groove. The band K is then pressed into its place and fixed by the pressure of the thin wedge O, which being pressed in between the tongue of the nut E, and the hair L, keeps the latter
of the nut E, the ornamental plate
it
you have done this operation once or twice. Take some waxed silk and tie round one end as at M, Fig. hold these 127, and cut off the ends just beyond it ends with a little stick of clear rosin in the flame of a spirit lamp for a few moments, so that the melted rosin permeates the ends and knot M, so as to harden and secure it. Take care not to burn off the waxed silk and burn too long doing this, or you will have all your trouble over again. Now cut a wedge (n in Figs.
;
such a
size that
it
flat,
firm,
and
fast.
The
entire nut
into the
wedge-box
wedge
stick
A by
lies
which
tion,
the action of the screw B c the surface against the s tick is cut angularly (as in G, Fig.
g being often lined, as in the illustrawith a thin bent plate of metal. The hair L leaving the nut E passes in a ribbon about an inch broad to the head, where it is in a like manner fixed
124), the cutting
being just even with the plate p, so that the hair comes from it flat over the plate p. Put the knot M into the wedge-box, flatten out the hair so that it leaves the head
in a
in the
wedge N so as to
is
keep
hair
thus,
and as
far as the
head
concerned the
its
it
is fixed.
Now comb
coiling
it
into a similar
The face of the head is generally protected by means of a metal or vory plate, P. The length of the bow is generally as
wedge-box, Fig.
125.
length,
for a
and then
near as possible 20 inches inclusive, the diameter of the stick is, at the screw (p, Fig. 123) f-inch, at the
The diameter
is
few moments in tepid water. Then hold it at the nut and recomb it from top to bottom over and over again till it is quite free, flat, and firm. The nut must be set as in Fig. 124, with the eye D in the middle of the groove cut in the stick to receive it, or if anything rather towards
for the
pkte
(p,
Fig. 125)
/ff and
,
the
head.
In this manner,
from top to bottom of p is one inch. The hair with which the bows are fitted (which is horse, and not as
is
and
it
must be very
and cleaned.
It is
also
knot to curl round the wedge in the box, make and rosin the cut ends as at Fig. 127, in the same way as you did when preparing to set the other end in the head. Now take the band K off e and slip
a
tie
customary to lap or cover the sticks of bows for a space of a few inches above the nut, with gold or
silver thread or leather.
This
is
;
doubtless a great
(right way up) over the hair, so that it can be brought back over the end of the nut when the hair is fixed, and taking E off the stick by completely unit
convenience
in
holding the
bow
it
was
for the
same
screwing
B,
draw
I J,
and
fix
the knot
102
into the
VIOLIN-MAKING : AS IT WAS,
wedge-box as
at Fig. 126, exactly as
AND
IS.
you
fixed
therefore, does
bow,
militate
production
of
sound?
Now
means
M, the
Answer
A
free
Because
is
of the screw
and
if
when D
is
as far forward
If the bow were quite from rosin, so long as it touched the string, or were drawn across it, the contact would be
much
B,
is
perfect
too taut
when
it is
drawn
as near as possible to
and continuous, and as a natural result the existence of vibrations would be rendered
impossible.
when D
in
When, however,
is
However, if the bow can be made slack, and tightened up by means of B, your work has been well done. Now finally comb the hair from head to nut, replace the slide hi J, and pull down the band K, which is threaded loosely on the hair, and slip
the centre of the groove as in Fig. 124.
it
of the horsehair
string with
over
J into its
place.
Now
screwing the
bow
and rub the surface of the ribbon of hair hard from the head to nut and back a few times. Then cut a little flat wedge O, or if necessary, two, to slip in, and fill up the space between the ebony of the nut inside, K, and the under side of the hair, which will keep the ribbon of hair tight and flat against J, and the flat side of K, and the operation
of hairing the bow is complete. Now take some very finely powdered rosin, and sprinkling it on a sheet of paper, rub the hair on it so as to get
well dusted
would take too long to discuss the scientific by this simple phenomenon, but the above exposition will show that the bow and hair are both secondary in importance, the true magical power of them both, lying in the obscure and unnoticed rosin. Wherever bow inIt
is
an invariable adjunct.
Among
primitive
bow
were, gives
it
this,
is
as
it
easy to
appli-
As
ances,
I
it
and
as well not to
kind of rosin one uses, rehaired, from which time one kind must be kept to, till the next rehairing, and so on. It is a great mistake to use too much rosin, as young
beginners are often apt to do, it is only productive of a loud coarse tone and I prefer, personally, to err on the side of too little rosin, rather than to
;
his
performance. Paganini is said to have played exquisitely on his violin with a rush, with a view to annihilating a self-confident Italian
burden much.
action
my bow
It is
and rasp
my
fiddle
with too
astonishing
how few
violinists
know
B
mechanical and scientific powdered rosin on tone production. Many people when they see you applying rosin,
of
who matched himself against the Immortal Trickster." If you gather a common rush, you will find that its surface is quite rough enough to have the mechanical effect of powdered rosin, which accounts for the above
amateur,
"
performance.
".
bow
to
make
it
go
and more still, including performers themselves, think that rosin renders the surface of the hair smoother, instead
of as
it
T ^
really does,
rough.
rosin
They know
making it that if no
FIG.
the bow has been subjected improvements, and has survived them all in its absolute simplicity, as determined by Tourte. Amongst the most striking of these is the folding bow, made to go with the folding violin, mentioned in the last chapter.
violin,
Like the
to
manifold
is used, the bow will make no sound but voila tout. The true function of rosin is as
It
comes
in half
with a joint,
follows
is
It will
have
why,
a fishing rod, and curiously enough, does not seem to be seriously affected by
like this eccentricity of construction.
The
I
late J. B. Vuil-
make
it
instantly cease
laume introduced
steel
bows, but
VIOLIN
MAKING AS IT
:
WAS,
AND
IS.
io 3
Museum.
One
is
Mr. Bishop of course speaks ex cathedra ; but, personally, I do not consider the infinitesimal advance and
retreat of the nut, to suit various styles of playing, to
be
in
to execution
on the
instru-
reproduced by his permission in Fig. 128. The head, will be seen, has no face-plate (p, Fig. 125), and
ment.
Red
recommended
ence
to
in prefer-
though the nut and screw work in the usual manner, the
nut
is
white,
as the
on
the
a plain piece
{i.e.,
it
dye;
of ebony
has
but this
as
to
its
a fallacy,
is
no wedge-box,
etc.)
slide,
only effect
The
bows
hair for
is
produce a coarseDr.
in-
these
sold
ness of tone.
Nicholls,
who
heavy
in
wood
which
slip into
holes cut in
and
nut,
as
the
re-
illustration,
to
It
ceive them.
will
me-
introduced
the
purpose of
its
every
the
evoking
three-
respect
with
huge
stick
a particle of glue is employed at any point of the bow, and those who have ever
taken a fiddle and bcw through the
bombe
which
with
in the centre,
was
red hair,
of
fitted
Canal
fully
to
India will
appreciate the
fig.
124.
made
light
in
proportion
lilllll'M^
FIG.
I26.-r.OX IN NUT.
;
form the hair fitted in a precisely s'milar manner, but the nut
fast
and
the
to
B, Screw head Stick of Bow F, Heel-plate of nut G, Slidseen be in H, Silver plate I, Mother-of-pearl ing-plate, fitting and sliding on and I are mounted M. Georges Chanot's forming slide J, End of ebony strip on which L, Hair K. Silver band slipped over end of E, embracing J, L, O, and E Wardour shop in in box O, Wedge to of bow M, Knot of hair N, Wedge to hold Street) are curiosities P, Plate of head of bow. press against
;
fiddles
and
Nut
may
the hair
was
deadly
in
in
their
way,
but
fitted to
a smaller brass nut which by means of the screw worked backwards and forwards inside the larger ebony one. The advantage claimed was
other respects,
are not
first
many
any
in
importance was Jacques Lafleur, of He was one of the best makers, Paris (1760 1830). his work being often as good as Tourte's, with which
of
most valuable appendix to his on the Violin " (which, with his notes on the text, constitute the great and sole value of the work) asserts that the variations of the movable
After
him came
Francois Lupot, brother of Nicholas, the great Luthier of that name, who devoted himself solely to the manufacture of bows, in which he undoubtedly excelled.
io4
AN IMPROVED
FRET-SAWING MACHINE.
pair of arms, at a short distance from the ends,
fit
who
has justly been called the English Tourte. lived and was buried at Kew, living and working alone, for he never took an apprentice, who might learn the secret of his art, for the divulgence of which, it is said, he was once offered, and refused, ,i,ooo. His violoncello bows are the best, but his violin bows, though sometimes a shade too short, are the best England has
He
may be
either screwed or
away
piece.
as
by i
The lower part of the backbone must be cut shown in drawing, to fit over lower back crossThe framework may now be made of 2i inch inch deal. The front uprights, Fig. 5, must have
for the bearings, cut 12
6,
mortises
ground
known
of native manufacture,
The
high prices.
Nevertheless,
Dodd
workhouse. He was followed* in the manufacture by Louis Panormo, the son of the violinmaker, Vincent Panormo, whose bows are much esteemed by violinists. The only contemporary bowmaker with any claims to celebrity is James Tubbs,
and lower back, Fig. 7, are alike. The cross-piece for bearings must be prepared for them, as shown in Fig. 9, while Fig. 8 represents the upper back cross-piece, with slot to admit backbone to the depth of 1? inches.
Previous to fixing Fig.
Fig. 17,
9,
who
if
so disposed will
make
and
and glued into position, the bearings themselves having been finished. The caps
fitted
must be
The bows of on his own terms. James Tubbs are even now much sought after, and will, in time to come, be valuable from their scarcity
scientific
bows,
of
spindle.
and
sterling qualities.
(To
be continued.)
Having completed the frames, they may be fixed together with the \ inch boards, Figs. 10 and 11. The broader pieces are nailed to top of sides, and the narrower about
1
The
made
in
shown by dotted
side
may be
fixed
LAKES.
length, to
(For Illustrations,
HE
limited range of
add to the rigidity. Having proceeded so far, fix backbone in position, nail at the bottom to the lower back cross-piece, and fit in the slot in upper cross-piece as before mentioned, two screws passing from the cross-piece into
the backbone, hold
Figs. 23
it
securely in position.
The
slides,
and 24
(full size)
ash
machine (working drawings of which accompany this part) which will meet the requirements of most amateurs, as it admits work up to 30 inches in
the clear.
slides for the usual
The upper has a hole bored at one end for the string from bow, while the lower end is slit up to reThe lower slide, Fig. 24, is slotted at ceive clamp.
($
important feature is the substitution of pivoted arms, which ensure a marked improvement in the cutting, while any thickness of wood not exceeding \\ inches may be easily
dealt with.
An
upper end for clamp, and at the lower to receive the connecting-rod, a 5 inch hole being bored, as shown
by dotted
lines, to
made
will
admit of
the use of short (broken) saws, which otherwise become useless. The table extends the whole length
of the machine,
The bearings
;
and
will
in sup-
The
for
slots in
any wear
forline,
shown in Fig. 1, and into these fit the four pieces shown in Fig. 3, in section (and in plan with
in position,
which
may
until
By
may be
backwards or
wards
fit
the support
to this
Between each
near the front end by a piece of board, 3 inches deep, nailed to inside of front legs, and to the arms, as shown
XIV.
OF
13
^3
ID I
rb
uu
23
T~
zi
2+
26
o
!!
1
J.
C.
LAKEE.
be put
are fixed
view of machine. This board must not two supports for crank-shaft these, Fig. 13, are nailed at one end to
holes in the larger pieces to prevent the smaller from turning the two small upper holes in clamps are for
;
under and inner sides of upper front cross-piece, 4 inches apart, and at the lower end to backbone, one on each side, about 8 inches from ground. A i inch hole is bored in each, in position given to admit crankThe two shaft, Fig. 29, made of A inch round iron. cranks work between the bearings, the ends may be
turned,
being driven quite through slides and holes. In Fig. 28 are represented the clamp-screws, full size.
Fig. 31
is
support, a
pin passing
through securing
I inch
filed into
shape.
weighing about 20 pounds, be fixed on the right end of the shaft this wheel is shown in Fig. 30, drawn to scale, but it need not be exactly to drawing, any wheel with a groove, and about the weight and diameter mentioned, answering the pur12 inch driving-wheel,
and having
bored about from front end of bow, and then deeply countersunk, the wood between hole and end of bow then removed. The string can thus be taken out and replaced in a moment, and by means of the knots upon it any
it
in position.
hole
is
32, is fitted
'pose.
The
nailing both
supports in position.
The
table can
backbone the upper end has a slot bow, secured in position by a pin. The top slide must be lowered
;
which
lies
the
until
the clamp
now be The
its
is
inch
stuff,
hinged
find centre
mark out the shape of clamp, of same, and bore inch hole through
free
and
A inch
from
table to
admit of the
passage of saw.
coating
front
end
the treadle-board,
the
made
line,
and
is
board, to which
nailed,
The connection
tween cranks and treadles is made with similar wire turn the right crank down to its lowest position, make a hook at one end of the wire, pass this over crank-pin, and through staple in treadle, then lift the treadle until it clears the front part of the treadle-board by about 1 inch, the end of the wire may then be twisted round
two or three times a short distance above staple
ceed in the same
:
late
Prince Consort.
the
most
pro-
mode
of represent-
treadle.
ing
The
iron.
Ms by truthful modelling. and drawings, however ably executed, cannot give, at one view, comobjects
Paintings
upon the
the
left
by set-screw or otherwise,
in position, the
;
the
To
no-
When
crank
is
upon
end of spindle the balance-wheel, Fig. 21, between the bearings, and the pulley upon the extreme right, a round leather band passing from it to the
driving-wheel.
thing does this observation apply with more force than to geographical subjects. I think every one will
admit that
all
it is
table-lands, with
is
flat
The
in
made
surface
map.
remain
;
The most
two pieces, the upper part having i inch hole a short distance from rounded end, and a slot extending the greater part of its length the lower half (shown
;
indicate positions
and areas
tudes
to the
has \ inch hole to fit the plain part of crank-screw, Fig. 19 this screw must fit tightly into
left)
;
stout screws, about J inch long, clamp the connecting-rod pieces securely together, a glance at
crank.
Two
light shading indicates moderate elevations, points heavy shading higher ones. The late A. Keith Johnston was so strongly impressed with the futility of hill shading that in many of his finest works he abandoned
it,
mark
the positions
make
this clear.
and
views of clamps which are of i inch steel. The smaller pieces have pins driven into them, and these fit into
been frequently adopted by others. though it frees a map from much confusion,
give
io6
dantly repay a
little
and
has the superiority of modelling overall other methods of geographical representation been admitted, that
map
many
effect
made
to give the
of relievo
relievo,
work by what are termed photoand panoramic maps but in all of these there
;
few,
are, of necessity,
nothing of the
in perspective, to say endeavouring to present by those methods an "all round view" of hilly or mounfutility of
grave errors
constructors of relievo maps have been but and all appear up to the present time to have endeavoured to keep their methods secret. Keller Dobbs, and Brion are the best known. The process employed by them I shall now proceed to explain.
The
tainous regions.
I
Relievo work
twill
perhaps
:
may be
into
divided
be said
relievo
If the
superiority
of
maps
surface
As
the
over
flat
map is embossed
from the model,
it is
ones be sogreat,
why have
not
they
ad-
obvious that
been
the construction
mitted to more
general
of the latter
all
is
use
important.
count
great
of
cost.
their
on constructing
a relievo
Switzerland
map
of
England.
first
Our
be two
the of
step will
to
procure
of
admirable
lievo of the
copies
same
sheet
map
costs
as
many
I
we
guineas.
can
the
Keith
vouch
it
for
Johnston, Stanford,
fact, that
has
where been
practi-
Letts,
found
relievo
cable to issue a
good from
map
at
moderate
the
sale
price,
maps must be
uncoloured, un-
has
mounted,
-SKETCH MAP OF ENGLAND AND WALES, SHOWING PRINCIPAL
PHYSICAL FEATURES.
Keller
clear
in
To
and
the
simple
engraving.
and to enable any one, who desirous of so doing, to acquire and embody exact ideas of any carefully explored portion of the earth's surface, the present papers are designed. The art will
in practice,
printed
and Dobbs constructed their own maps, and them upon paper specially prepared for em;
more deeply
a considerable time I did the same, be indispensable, but experience taught me that any ordinary fiat surface is capable of being made into a relievo, thus saving the cost of drawing
for
bossing
believing
it
to
the knowledge already possessed, but will expand the mind, gratify the constructor with the sense of exercising a species of creative power, and silently correct errors that have been unconsciously cherished for a
lifetime.
map for the purpose. Imagine be before us. Our first care must be to procure a piece of well seasoned and smoothly planed board, about one and
and engraving a
the chosen
special
map
to
The
artistic
results
will,
moreover, abun-
all
map we
intend to
107
Pol-
expand
(a
dered alum, mix gradually with cold water to the consistence of crearn. Boil in an enamelled or well tinned
about ten minutes. Take your paste brush hog-hair tool is well adapted for the work), work the paste well into the back of the board
for
painter's
saucepan
stimng
constantly.
be a beautiful white paste, almost as adhesive as the famous one of the Chinese, and far before any other I have tried.
result will
The
and upon one side of the blank sheet of paper, mount the paper upon the board. {Note Be careful not to leave much paste upon your paper or maps at any
time, but
work it well into the pores, crossing and recrossing the action of your brush repeatedly in order to guard against missing a single spot, which oftimes
Ft. 5280
5280ft.
= 1 mile
Ft. 5280
FIG.
I.
3960
.
to
be used
1
3960ft.
=f mile
'ed
scales
from 3
;
to
24 miles to
inch,
1
3060
horizontal
and
to 4
-*3
O
O o
N
inches to
1 r riile,
3960
"d
%
O
N
'S
Fl
w
"o
.
a o
N
fi
w
"o
w
.
o
2640
O
2640
m
tu
2640
o
CO <o
Z o
09 tu
to O)
Ft. 5280
so ta
.
a M O
M a
.9
CD
2640ft.
V
M
o
M
Cl
=J
mile
3960
g
.
MILES TO
INCH,
INCHES TO
MILE,
h
.
5
1320 1320
.
'5
o
CO
a
'
sab
3960
264
3
71
HORIZONTAL.
HORIZONTAL.
C
i
o
1
.
g
3 M
1320
.
. .
1320
>
Ft5280
Ft. 5280.
z
2640
1320
24 mile3 to 1 inch.
inch tu
1 mile.
.
39
3960 2640
S
3
1320ft.
^i mile
12 miles to 1 inch.
:
3D60. n
1320
.
2 inches to 1 mile.
2W0
1320
t
6
mile^ to 1 inch.
3 inches to
mile.
3 miles to 1 inch.
4 inches to
mile, horizonta
,
spoils
Mount
the
same
size as
map upon
a good plan to
fectly flat.
A
;
tea-tray
place a sheet of blank paper over the map, and with a round rule, or other roller, work evenly and repeatedly
purpose.
the water
Paper of a
that
readily imbibe
satisfactorily
longer time.
{Note
very
the
stout, is best
Paper of a soft, fine texture, not adapted for relievo work.) Remove
the bath,
done, leave the work to dry, but avoid placing the board in the sun or near to a fire. The reason for
and
carefully lay
it
using the paper at the back of the mounting board is to compensate the warping that would otherwise arise
may
map
in
drying.
The
superfluous moisture.
in a
thoroughly expanded
F 2
io8
state
is
On map
ins. to
cess, for if
by expansion, be too
when prepared
mounted map
3 miles to
1
times
The time
inch
depends on the weather and the warmth of the room in which the board is placed. Generally, twenty-four
hours are necessary, as it is unadvisable to commence modelling till the map is quite dry. Suppose this to
4
8
24
16
will
A mathematician
have no
difficulty in
forming
be the case, we can now take our next step, which will be to determine, and permanently mark, the positions
and
The
Take
and horizontal
scales
intend to emboss
for
example, a
map work has led to much discussion between mathematicians and geographers, some advocating an exact balance of scales, on the reasoning that it
is
mode
it
recommended
and Wales of 24 miles to going table, should have a vertical scale 16 times greater than the horizontal. Measure off an inch upon paper, divide it into 24 parts, each of which will represent one mile, or 5280 feet. Set off sixteen of these
parts
any map which you map of England an inch. This, by the fore-
upon a
part.
line,
and from
it
To my mind,
be found in that scale which gives to the relievo the appearance which
the true
will
meaning
th
equal
portions,
and each
will
represent
1000
feet
the eye. Equality between the and horizontal scales cannot possibly be ob" served in works of small, or even of moderate, size. The Cumbrian Group so modelled would be scarcely perceptible on a map of 20 miles to an inch the South Downs would be raised no" higher than the
nature presents to
The
vertical
given in Fig.
trouble.
1,
constructor
I
some
have been thus minute in discussing the question of scales because it is an all-important factor in
the successful pursuit in the art
I
am
treating
of.
Some
severe
Haphazard work
is
disappointment ; but I wish to impress upon the reader the necessity for comparing, whenever practi-
hat
all vertical
minds
when viewed by
height of a
hill
We remember,
we
for
example, the
model while in progress with the objects sought to be represented, and slight variations of our tables will then oftimes lead to satisfactory results.
cable, the
now return to the mounted map left to dry. Having marked your vertical scale upon a piece of cardboard, boxwood, or ivory, and being provided
Let us
with shoemaker's rivets or fine brads ij inches to inch in length, place one on the spot marked I upon
The
may be
easily tested
by
1
Map
of
England
(scale
a portion of any district with which I mile) you are acquainted. On this, by an equal vertical scale, model a church tower 200 feet in height, and Present your work to hills from 500 feet upwards. anyone who knows the locality, and it will elicit the remark " I thought the hills, etc., were higher than
:
This represents the highest Drive the rivet or brad perpendicularly into the board till it measures 2658 feet by your graduated vertical scale. Proceed to Cumberland and Westmoreland, and in like manner drive rivets to denote the summits of:
the
map
given in Fig.
2.
that."
We
2.
3.
Sea
Fell,
3229
5.
Saddleback, 2787
work are those which are admitted to represent vertical objects in their apparoit and remembered pro.
relievo
Helvellyn, 3055
6.
7.
4.
Skiddaw, 3022
portions.
To
obtain these
mark
Bol-
rules as
On
map
equal vertical scale will produce a natural representation, unless the locality is
very low,
in
which case an
above Robin Hood's Bay then return to the Cheviots, and work down the Pennine Range by Aldstone Moor, Killhope Law, Cross Fell, Shunor Fell, Great Whernside, Pennigant, Holme Moss, Kinderscout, Axe-edge Hill, to the Peak
hills
Danby Beacon,
in
Derbyshire.
The
109
Geulo^icol
Names
of HilU, eti
in teet.
Localities.
Formations.
Daventry
Rugby
Market Harboro.
Lutterworth
Marlboro'
Central Table-
New Red
Sands'one
Lias and
Oolite.
landofEngland.
Mendip, Polden, and Ouantock Hills Exmoor, Dartmoor, and the Cornish Snea Fell, Isle of Man, Holyhead, St. Heights Catherine's Head, Isle of Wight.
Hills,
;
Downs
Bucks
In the Vale of
\
Chalk.
...
Hungerford
Kennet
Xewbury
Reading
Chiltern Hills
....
264
135
(
All well-constructed
maps
830
I be,
HighYVvcomBucks ...
names which we have enumerated, together with shadings indicating positions and areas, but all maps
have not the heights figured (an omission which frequently perplexes the student, and merits the attention
of cartographers
fore
904
Dunstable, Beds.
Gog-
Cambs
and publishers
generally),
thereSomerset.
Old Red
stone
stone.
Sand-
& Lime-
Names
of Hills, etc.
5?f
localities.
Geological
Inkpen Beacon
Leith Hill
...
ion
993 928 616
North Downs.
Chalk.
Formations.
Hind Head
.........
England.
Cheviot
Hill...
Wisp
Hill
Sunniside
Rufflaw Aldstone Moor Killhope Law Cross Fell
Roxburgh
of Cheviot... S.spurof Cheviot
Porphyry
Carboniferous or
W.
575 409
599
495
1000 2196 2927 2186 2399 2310 2273 2384 1803 1515 1857
1981 1751 1981
..
..
MountainLimestone and
Millstone Grit..
Hastings
Wealden
of Clays. Chalk.
Sands
Chanctonburv
E.KirkbyStephen Pennine Range
Butser Hill
Hiil
South Downs.
Salisbury Plain
...
Wilts
Purbeck Heights...
Dunkerry Beacon
.
Dorset
r
Devon
">
Holme Moss
Kinderscout Axe-edge Hill
Exmoor
Rippon Tor
Dartmoor
Cawsand
Derbyshire S. Congleton
Yorkshire
.
Beacon...
and Granite.
Hills..
Weaver
Sheffield
Hills
Brown Willy
Karnbonellis Hills
Comish Heights
Bradford
Sea
Fell
...
...
Helvellyn
Skiddaw
CumbrianGroup
Catherine's
Hd.
Freshwater
Cliffs...
Isle of
Man
Wight
...
Isle of
Holy
Isle
Primary
stone.
Lime-
N. Beaumaris
Llanelidan
Anglesey
Bolton
Head
York Moors
Lias and
Oolite.
603
Snowdon X. E. Peak
Cader Idris Arran Mowdry..., Plynlimmon Tregaron Mount Precelly Mounts
.
Filey
Bay
Cliffs
...
436
159
Flamboro' Head...
Lincoln Heights, average of undulations
")
\
J
600
356 213
1320 1803 1007 1444
Lincolnshire
Lincoln
Carnarvon
Merioneth
Various.
Lime and
stones
Grit-
(Lower
with
Montgomery
j
Silurian)
Trap Rocks
...
Cardigan Caermarthen
Denbigh
Salop
Shales and Limestone.
...
Grantham
Wrekin
Clee Hills Clent Hills
Shropshire
Staffordshire
...
New Red
Sandstone,
Montgomery
18.8
Upper
Silurian.
Radnnr
Brecknock
2864
Malvern Hills
Cleeve Hill
Worcestershire
"34
1086
Cotswold
Hills
Oolite
Broadbury Beacon
Gloucestershire.
(To be continued.)
This
will give us
GEORGE EDWIXSON.
work suited
whilst
will
cover
all
I. INTRODUCTION,
smaller house.
out-premises,
When
to
this
and
painting and Papering, the writer does not presume to teach those about to enter the
profession, nor to improve those already
We
please,
dirt or
will
we shall probably meet the wants commence at the top of the house
first
you
and deal
because, by so doing,
clean
He
we shall be able to clear off any mess we may make on the stairs, and leave all
us.
first
and instructions in the art, sufficiently clear and comprehensive to enable them to lay on a bit of colour To ensure the best practical in their own homes. advice in carrying out this work, he has engaged the
services of a practical painter,
little
jobs before us are those of washing the ceilings, stripping, cleaning, and stopping the walls, and cleaning the paintwork, together with repairing
The
We
is
who
will furnish
those
room, or
wrinkles which go to
fill
water, or paint,
from splashes of whitewash, man be ever so careful, some somehow find their way on to any
a
the room.
With
piece of furniture
left in
We strongly advise
all
possible,
but where
it
is
demand
for
engaging the services of professional painters, paper-hangers, and decorators to do every little necessary repair. Many such houseowners would gladly employ their leisure hours in improving the appearance of their little properties if they knew how to set about it, the tools and materials they should employ, and how to use them. In some few cases they are fortunate enough to be situated, like the writer, within reach of a friendly fellow-workman able and willing to render assistance with advice and the loan of a few tools, but in many others they are far removed from all such means of assistance. Should the reader be able to purchase his materials from an oil and colour store, the obliging shopman will
generally
also
be taken up, this and the furniture grouped together in the centre of the room, and covered with some
washable material such as brown holland or old sheeting, this will leave the workman free to move around by the walls, and will prevent soiling by moving the
furniture while the
work
is
in progress.
It will
also
be advisable to move electric bells, and bell pushes, or any other ornamental wood or metal-work, for amateurs will more readily soil these than restore them To do this, disconnect the to their proper condition. wires at the terminal screws of the bell, and take the bell down, also detach the wires from the push fittings,
and take them off. Also remember to remove blinds, blind cords and pulleys, and any other things likely
to
be
soiled.
him how to mix and lay his give him some useful practical hints
tell
;
colours,
but, after
and
all,
All being
now made
clear,
we
will turn
our atten-
We
such a book as
entail a certain
Amateur Work,
since
they will
a distempering or whitewash brush (Figs. I or 2), cost from 7s. 6d. for one made of good hair, down to 5 s.6d.
for
hair, or as
low as
comall
whilst these
mon
This
latter class
of brush
not at
to
render a man, to a certain extent, independent, and be always at hand for reference. There is also
suitable
being only
be used
in
out-of-the-way
assis-
tance,
who would be glad to know the names of materials, how to prepare them at home, and how to apply them when thus prepared. It will afford us much pleasure to render them some assistance by telling them how to buy, what to buy, and how to make use of the material. For the sake of convenience we have assumed the
existence of an eight or ten-roomed house, needing
on rough bricks in out-buildings or cellars, and can only be depended upon for once. The best and higher priced brushes will be found most economical in the end, because they will last longer and put on less material with a much superior finish. Grass brushes, and even the mixed brushes, leave unsightly streaks on the ceiling and splutter the distemper about. An old brush will serve our purpose for washing the ceiling and wetting the walls, but we must impress the amateur with the idea that even the washing must be well and thoroughly done to ensure after success, for, dirty
HOUSE- PAINTING
streaks,
AND PAPERING.
the
m
of a
left
from
manner
smoked patches
subsequent
piece
coat of whitewash.
It will
be
trestles
one extremity to the other will keep your from flying open whilst in use."
should
in the annexed where the pin goes through the top part of the trestles, and the lower
is short and spear should also be stiff enough to form a miniature trowel and will thus
We
this
design,
recommend as shown
6,
a modification of
sketch, Fig.
from the palette knife, which should be broad, thin and flexible. The use of
differ
the stopping-knife
is
to stop
or repair
Fig.
.
more
with a mixture of plaster and whiting, or to F i G 3. STOPPING- KNIFE. Such trestles are very portable, and a stop crevices or holes in wood-work with FIG. 4. CHISEL-ENDED KNIFE pair of them the amateur will find useFOR CLEANING OLD PAINTputty or with a paste made of putty and WORK. FIG. 5. SCRAPER. ful to form a support for the paste-
white lead.
When we
have
to encounter
Before we commence
we
shall
it
will
be neces-
further operations,
do well
a working
which
will
act as a plane in
The
The
and rubbed down with pumice stone in water, so a lump or two of this material, costing about 6d., must be
included in our
plenty of clean
list
costume of some washable material. coat must be taken off, shirtsleeves turned up above the elbows, and it will be advisable to put on
a very old pair of trousers.
cotton
blouse,
well
shirt
will
An
old
make a good
of tools.
pail,
warm
water, a pair of
trestles and a plank, or a step ladder and a kitchen table, or something similar to form a portable platform, will
It
down over the nape of the neck will make an excellent subThus stitute for a workman's cap. equipped, we may defy the whitewash,
complete
all
which
would
otherwise
is
I.WHITEWASHING OR DISTEMPERING
BRUSH.
a plank on two trestles when washing the ceiling, for it enables the workman
to
Washing
the platform
of the
the Ceiling.
Arrange
hand
side
FIG. 2. --WHITE-
by
the right
WASHING OR DISTEMPERING
BRUSH.
move
room
pair of trestles
the
window
to fall
on the
made
at
home.
The
fol-
work, you
brush.
will
then be able
Work.
wood,
4
inch by 2 inches,
times
by
line
\ inch and
foot 6 inches
1
foot
Then
the
7 inches long,
f-
inch thick,
one end a head and a nut to fit the screw. Make two frames with your wood, after
a screw
at
against
at the other,
rim of the
squeeze
FIG. 6.
pail,
and thus
off
all
out
superfluous
TRESTLE.
water,
then
wipe
with the
until
damp
elements of putrefaction as damp paper and old paste enclosed behind a coat of new paper, we shall be only
too glad of this opportunity to get rid of the poisonous
Now
wet another
Clean
streak,
one section drying before another has been commenced, and cleaning the whole space within leach of Thebruihis the platform before it is again moved. held upright in the right hand, and by a dexterous move of the wrist is inclined to the left and right alternately, thus causing the hairs of the brush to
be swept
is
given to
by the wrist. Do not work with dirty water, nor take up too much water on the brush at once this precaution will need special attention when the wallpaper is clean, and is not to be renewed, in such cases we must be very careful not to splash the walls, indeed, splashing should be avoided at all times work clean, and you will work well. If a mate can be got to help you, and the two can work together in unison from both ends of the platform, the result will be more satisfactory than work done single-handed. If there are any cracks or flaws in the ceiling they must be repaired, " stopped " whilst the work is wet as we proceed. To do this mix a small quantity of powdered whiting and plaster of Paris two parts of the former on a slate, a tile, or a piece of to one of the latter wood, wet the mixture with water to the consistency of a thick paste, clear out the loose plaster from the crack or flaw with the point of the stopping-knife, and press the above mixture into the crack until it has been filled. This must be quickly done before the plaster
it
;
Commence by thoroughly wetting the paper on one side of the room with warm water applied with the same brushes used in washing the ceiling. When the paper has been thoroughly wetted, peel it off with the tool sketched at Fig. 5. Stubborn spots should be wetted again, and care must be taken not to injure the plaster. All loose paper must now be washed off with the wet brush, and should any flaws, or cracks, or nailholes be detected in the plaster they should be stopped with the same mixture as that directed for use in stopping flaws in the ceiling. All nails must be removed, and the holes stopped before the paper is hung. Serve the other sides of the room in a similar manner,
filth.
and
bin)
clear
up
all
dug
I
in
the garden,
if
in the dust-
and proceed
the paint-work.
must
(To
be continued.)
JOINTING
WOOD
By JOSEPH COWAN.
II, HOW TO
MANAGE DOWEL-JOINTING,
I.,
LL
page 365)
to learn in
is little
has time to set, then scrape off superfluous plaster around the crack, and work the surface of the newlyplastered spot smooth with the broad blade of the
stopping-knife.
Do
not mix
will
be needed at one time, nor attempt to use the remains of any old stopping left on the board. Never resort
to the reprehensible practice of pasting the cracks over
making the " dowel-joint." A dowel is a peg of tough wood (well represented in a shoe-peg), but made in lengths of 12 or 14 inches, and rounded by driving through a round hole in a steel plate care being taken that the dowel fits the hole bored by the dowel-bit which is the American twist-bit. Dowels, the amateur wood-worker must remember, should be made before wanted, and kept in a warm
;
filling
them with
plaster.
After
will
on them.
dirty coat
Some
beneath.
in
bed-rooms, for, by so doing, many fatal diseases may be generated in these rooms, which, of all others in the house, should be kept in the best sanitary condiIf we think for a moment of the possible accution.
mulation of poisonous condensed exhalations on the
wall-paper, the dead
insects
flies
then they are ready for immediate use. If this place be attended to, and the wood is dry, a joint can be made in a few minutes. In making a dowel-joint the dowels ought to be from 3 inches to a foot apart, according to the length of your work. When the work is shot straight, mark for your dowels by placing one piece on the other flat down face to face, then square across the two joint edges, at nearly equal distances, and at I to 2 inches from each end then gauge from the face side, in the middle of the stuff, or perhaps nearer to the back than
; ;
the front, as
more wood
it
is
stowed away
in
in finishing (and
will
FERXERIES:
and has a very condemning marker where the lines cross
from running,
at the start.
THEM.
:
ii3
look).
;
FERNERIES
By
THEM.
Put a wood gauge on the bit, so that all the holes may be of one uniform depth Counter-sink the holes then cut (this is essential). an eighth of an inch shorter lengths in dowels your than the depth of both holes round over the ends of
;
;
L RUSTIC
HE
so
is
widespread,
so easy,
is
the
cultivation of ferns
and the
simple,
next step to be taken in dowel-jointing is the Place your dowels, when ready, one hour in a warm place this will shrink them, and
The
construction of ferneries
that
I
so
am
enable them to go easily and readily together, for there should be no bungling at the gluing operation. When the dowels are shrunk, warm your joint at the Do not glue the joint, dowel-holes, and dowels. fire
;
slobber too
much
mind
that the
It takes longer glue ought to be moderately thin. to glue a dowel-joint than a plain one, and the glue
of papers upon the above subject, in the hope that many amateurs will derive as much pleasure and profit in making fern-cases and ferneries as I have done. In giving these directions I shall assume that my readers know nothing whatever upon the subject, have very little money to lay out, and possess few and simple tools to work with at first, leaving more elaborate designs, entailing a larger outlay and some
There are numbers of professional workmen who know nothing of this mode of jointing no doubt
;
is
it.
carry the dowel-jointing into what chairmakers call " framing " that is, shoulder to
will
;
We
now
The very mention of ferns some rustic scene, where nature's principal adornment is simply luxuriant growth thus in deciding upon the outlines and decoration of a fernery, we shall do well to select such
struction until later on.
suggestive at once of
shoulder,
by means of dowels
is
of attraction
the case
itself,
but universal in
it,
1
and
confined to
but
is
:
and
have
In
decorated with the most "quiet" colours such as will harmonise with the green foliage of the ferns.
Let us now try our hand on a rustic fern case, Fig. measuring, when completed, 22 inches long, 12 inches wide, and 21 inches high, glass on all sides, with
1,
cabinet-makers work
shipwrights iron ones
;
nothing to do,
my
business
full instruc;
making, setting out, and boring All little now remains to be told about bevel-joints. with the face or bevel-joints must be bored square To mark the shoulder, otherwise they will not go up. shoulder for boring Take a card, place it between the shoulders exactly as you would have the work
; :
a sliding glass door at each end the whole resting on four white "ottoman feet." This will be found easy
;
to
when
from),
work
make, and will cost something under three shillings. shall want a half peck of Roman cement and a half peck of Portland cement, two squares of glass (21 oz.) 20 inches by I2j inches, two squares 13 inches by 11 inches, and two triangular pieces, 1 1 inches each way (Fig. 6), two pieces (Fig. 5) 19^ inches long, 11 inches at sides by 10 inches at top, a piece of flat zinc, No. I o
We
shoulder,
2, 3, 4, or more, according to the size of your work, through the card and into the wood; now reverse the card and mark its fellow, still taking for your guide the two-face sides. Now warm and glue well both face, holes, and dowels, and let the cramp bear direct on the shoulder, otherwise it will not hug up cleverly. In my next paper I shall describe the method of jointing thin stuff. I do not make my articles longer than I can help, lest by giving too much at once, and bringing more than one operation before the reader at one time, my remarks may tend rather to confuse than to instruct him.
(
gauge, 21 inches by
13^-
man
knobs, as they are called at the ironmonger's), and a few strips of sheet zinc about a foot long by an inch wide, and some galvanized wire and brass
chain to suspend the basket in Fig.
I.
Perhaps we
To
be continued.')
had better make this basket first, as it will get our hand in for the more important work of the case. Have a piece of flat board to work upon and take a 4 inch ordinary flower-pot, which cover with a piece of newspaper, set it upside down on the board mix in a pot some cement, half Roman and half Portland, to the consistency of a thick batter, and with an old knife commencing from the bottom (Fig. 2), lay the cement all over the paper. As soon as one stratum has
;
"4
been
FERNERIES:
THEM.
which cement in at the bottom, projecting sufficiently for them to be used to insert the suspension chain if the cement is not too thick two coats will make a good strong basket. Make it look as knotty as possible, and leave it to set (Fig. 3), then reverse it. The pot can now be withdrawn, leaving a porous basket with three eyeholes, stick a little cement on the part which was on the flat board, and it is complete The amateur may make another or two with (Fig. 4). advantage, and then proceed to build up Fig. 1. For
laid twist three pieces of wire into three eyes, at equidistant points
;
than the sides, bend two pieces of stout wire, Fig. 7, to overlap the sides, one at each end on top, cement these
in,
and when
set
the glass can be easily pulled out), and turn the case
upside
The
feet
down and cement an edge on what was the top. can now be screwed on, boring a hole in the
When
this
is
this
purpose score the sheet of zinc i inch on all sides, it at each corner, and turn up the i inch so as
Cement
set
all
fill
and when
firm,
FIG- 7.
FIG.
FIG.
FIG.
4.
HANGING
I. DESIGN FOR RUSTIC FERNERY.
FIG 3.
to
form a
1
tray.
Now
on end
to
do
so.
The
case
is
and bend these together lengthwise so as groove. Cover the two squares of U-shaped a form to glass, 13 inches by II inches, with paper, and place
by
inch,
each of the lone sides. These, form the slides of the ends. Now take the two large squares and up end the lot in the zinc tray, get some one to hold one side while with two pieces of string you tie the four squares into remember that an upright and square position glass of the two ends is to be covered with paper. Now proceed to cement in from the outside, first, the bottom, the tray and the corners, as was done in the making of the baskets, going over all two or three times with cement, not too thick cement in the corners
one of the
U grooves on
when
finished, will
and about 2 inches away from the glass and a few holes bored in the bottom for air. Plant the ferns in a mixture of peat mould and a little silver sand, upon some broken pots or loose cinders. The raw appearance of the cement may be taken off by dabbing on some oil colours of a suitable tint, chocolate, light green, and a yellow tint here and
on
there, but let the prevailing tone
little fine
be a rich brown.
tray
and the glass gives a pretty effect. have found ferns thrive exceedingly well in these cases, and their appearance improves with age. (lo be continued?)
I
A STORM-GLASS, OR HYGROMETER.
A STORM-GLASS, OR HYGROMETER.
B'j
"5
when
the air again
known
to this
do
this,
becomes and
PKOSSEE PBATRE.
nearly
twisted
fibres
exhibit
peculiarity,
HO
little
sentry-
box hygrometer standing on the mantelpiece of a country cottage ? In form it may resemble two sentry-boxes placed one tenanted by a m niature side by side
doll dressed
up
to
resemble a
to re-
little
old
woman,
whilst
the other
is
made
amongst the most prominent being the strings used The little in violins and fiddles and known as catgut. rope, then, depending from the flagstaff and supporting the platform on which John and Joan stands, is nothing more nor less than a short length of fiddlestring, which twists or untwists as it absorbs or gives out moisture. Another, and perhaps more simple form of hygrometer, may he
found weed,
in a piece of seasalt,
semble a
little
old man.
as
it
comes
flagstaff, to
is
the rope of
which
ancient
suspended
couple.
a
the
platform supporting
this rope
is
from the sea, hung up behind the hall or front door this gets clammy on the approach of wet,
;
When
platform
or gets dry
and
rustles in
and
its
dry weather.
liarity
left
This pecu-
funny
sentry
pair
stand
by turns according
weather
taking his stand
is due to the salt on the weed, which absorbs moisture from the
air.
John
ing to
make room for Joan when the clouds clear away and the sun shines
again. This has always been supposed to be the proper arrangement, but sometimes ungallant John
will leave
pending from a nail in the wall with a small weight hanging from it, will also serve as a hygrometer. If we mark the wall with a
scale
of lead pencil,
we
shall
when
his
little
old
dry.
Some
ting
stand
outside
some
and
have
DESIGN FOR SENTRY-BOX HYGROMETER
produced
in
it is
this
alteration
on
men and
and
its
their puppets
I
defection
remedy
In
When the weather is dry, those leaves that were cut out of pink paper will turn purple, and those cut out of blue paper will turn green; but on the approach of damp those tints will fade
away, whilst leaves painted on white paper with a stronger solution will pass from green to pink. Interesting effects are also caused by changes of weather in a solution with which the so-called stormglasses are
the tiny
the
This little apparatus is one of the most simple forms of the hygrometer, or measurer of moisture, so named from the two Greek words hugros " moist," and metros " a measure." The action of all hygrometers depends upon their capability of absorbing moisture from the air when wet weather is approaching, and of
The composition of one solution is as follows: Dissolve 2 drams persons used by some of crushed camphor in 4 ounces of rectified spirits of
filled.
wine,
mix
to
dram
of salt-
petre in as
this
much
the
camphorated
now add
^distilled
A STORM-GLASS, OR HYGROMETER.
water to the mixture until a white feathery precipitate is seen to fall, the solution is then ready. Another
recipe
is
a follows
drams of spirits of wine, dissolve ammoniac, and 38 grains of saltpetre in 9 drams of distilled water, and add this mixture to the camphorated spirit. The mixture must be enclosed in a long phial or long narrow glass tube with its upper end covered with a brass cap, or stopped
in II
dered camphor
which John and Joan stands. This fiddle-string must fit tightly in the cap of the flagstaff and be secured there, but it must be free to move from this point downwards. As it may wriggle about and destroy the
balance of the platform,
in a
we pass
it
reed or grass stem glued to the flagstaff from a point just out of sight down to the platform. This
may be
will
show
warning of the near approach of a storm. In dry settled weather the white feathery precipitate will remain quiet at the bottom of the glass, but on the approach of damp weather it will rise and move about in the glass. It has even been said that a storm may be surely predicted by its movements, for it is
then tossed about and violently agitated on the side of
the glass nearest the quarter from whence the wind
will blow.
fictitious
must be well balanced when the little figures are on and to ensure free movement the flagstaff must not be brought down to the floor of the house, but the platform suspended under its end. When John or Joan fail in their duty which they will sometimes do we must correct the fault at the top of the flagstaff by twisting the knot a little until the erring figure takes its proper place. Such adjuslments will be necessitated by a removal of the instrument from a
it,
damp room
to a dry one, or the reverse. It will be found best to always keep it in a cool dry room instead of on the mantelpiece in the kitchen or in the living room, because it is evident that such rooms are not so
tale
may
say
is
purely
readily affected
and imaginary but it is quite possible to prepare a solution of camphor which shall act as a hygrometer in very wet weather. Its behaviour, as above indicated, is due to the fact that camphor is
soluble in alcohol but not soluble in water, nor in very
dilute alcohol
;
instrument altogether.
will
be seen that
have
sketched the instrument with a flower-box for roof, this is to be filled with paper flowers painted with the
chloride of cobalt solution, the drooping tendrils
and
damp
air,
and
it
is
possible
The instrument
is
itself
may
be made
camphor
when a
larger
and
by a small addition of mositure absorbed from the air by the mixture. As there have been some inquiries about those storm-glasses, I have thought that a paper on the subject would interest readers of Amateur Work; and to keep up the illustrated character of the journal, I herewith append a sketch of a design which incorporates the little house with its John and Joan couple, the flowers and leaves painted with the chloride of cobalt solution, and the storm glass combined
I
We may
may
compare
their indications
Whether they
;
say
but this
more
pretentious instruments.
in one.
In the design
it
looks very
libel
much
I
:
as
if
Some who may be inclined to make this meter may object to the absence of a sloping
cover in the top of the house, and to hide the
hygroroof to
pictorial
on Policebeg,
'
flagstaff".
man X and
is
however, to assure every member of " the force, who may happen to be a reader of this Magazine, that nothing whatever of the kind is intended, although the
is is
up a
may be removed at To obviate heaviof appearance, the square casing may be carried little higher than in the drawing, and the top may
this addition.
;
An
made
The foot may be moulded and the top covered with a bit of bladder tied over the mouth, this part will pass up behind the apparent top of the pillar and will terminate in the box of flowers above. Behind this pillar will be erected the flagstaff, from which depends
solution for the storm-glass.
in plaster or in paste-board,
There must be a and back of the part which forms the roof or cover must be triangular in form, and, of course, of exactly the same size and shape, the apex of the triangle being
gable before and behind
that
is
immediately over the central axis of the storm-glass. On these triangles two flat pieces are laid to complete
the roof.
117
VARIOUS JUXPS
done
to
ICHAELMAS GEESE
of at times
each individual writer will find himself invariably associated with good company.
I, A FOLDING BOOK-CASE,
[From A. W. K., Bengal.]
and
too
good
as
being
rather
much for one but not enough for two. Such a man as this must have been the old Devonshire Squire, who was in the habit of saying that
he could,
any time, eat a duck after dinner, and was once induced to lay a wager to that effect to the amount of $. Now it was well known that if the
at
The accompanying
illustrations
when
folded up,
travelling.
The sender
I
says,
The idea
is, I
it
was a well-hung haunch of venison that would induce him to eat well, until he had placed a more than ordinary strain upon the buttons of his waistcoat. So, one day the man with whom the old Squire had made the bet, asked him to dinner, and gave him haunch of venison. The cloth was removed, and the guests were
myself one exactly as described in me every satisfaction. Should the plan prove satisfactory, I hope to contribute others of a similar kind."
Remembering the dictum of Solomon that " there nothing new under the sun." I am of opinion that
would be dangerous to claim perfect
idea
;
is
it
both
in-
proceeding to enjoy the post-prandial port, when a couple of covered dishes were brought in and placed
before the Squire.
He had
and
most important part of the dominions of our Empress-Queen, the designs and measurements are
gladly inserted here, not only for their
value,
looked at them with some degree of wonder, but, when, on removing the covers, he saw a five pound note under one and a well-stuffed duck, the biggest
that the poultry yard could yield, under the other, he
own
intrinsic
remembered
the challenge and became unpleasantly conscious that his reputation was at stake. " You've taken a dirty advantage of me," he said, turning to his host at the head of the table, whose face was
showing that Amateur WORK has found its way into India, and is taken up and welcomed by wood-workers there as well as at home and nearer home.
but
as
The method
much
free
space in dwelling on
it
It will
be
sufficient to
I'll
try to
do
my
He
pin, to use
bone of the duck as clean as a whistle, or a new two stock similes, and, folding up the note
and most 1 inch in thickness, will be sufficiently stout and solid for ordinary purposes. The pine should be stained and
say that
of ordinary pine, clean
stuff f inch, or at the
may be made
and putting
it into his pocket, proceeded to do his duty to the good old port. But to return to my starting point, and get round at once to what I am driving at. I have found that
mahogany may
used for pine,
be used.
may be
many
correspondents send
mc
notions of genuine
latter
manner of the goose and the sucking-pig, are somewhat too big and too good to be reduced to the more modest type used for "Amateurs in Council," but are not big enough to make separate
value, which, after the
articles in themselves.
when when the upper part ?, is turned down on the lower part a so that the structure assumes the form and appearance of a box. The measurements
represents the side of the book-case
is
closed
that
to say,
reception and have therefore determined to open a special department under the
fitting
illustration of these
that
is
to
venture to
ing,
hope not
wood of which the book-case is made. The height of the book-case when open is 35:] inches, when closed, as in the illustration, the height is 22^
is 28+ inches, the depth 14^ inches the depth at three different parts of the book-case is as follows, namely at a, a, 7 inches,
;
those
I trust that are disinclined to write papers of the length necessary to raise them to the rank of separate articles, will be satisfied at finding their excellent suggestions produced therein from month to month, or
at
b,
b 13! inches,
and
at
c,
that
say,
{-
inch to
as often as
may be
inch, or ii inches to
foot.
n8
Proceeding
hibits
to Fig. 2,
the front
of the book-case
in
a few
of
the
when
folds
part
on hinges lettered a a, and the part C on hinges lettered b b. In Fig. 3 the side of the book-case is represented when open and standing on a table.
being
merely
that
of
In
this,
D represents
B,
and fastening at the sides with a catch, this board is inserted for the purpose of keeping the books in
place
rounding
it,
the book-case
may
be dropped into
is
being
3,
The frame
and
closed or opened.
In Fig.
the
may be
to
space between the shelves is also shown, the space at E being 10J
inches, that at
r,
form a receptacle
II, HOW TO
[Prom
bric-a-brac.
G and
1,
inches,
4 inches.
here, falls
The board
as
is
shown
fig.
1.
A Correspondent
side
forming a shelf
case,
of the book-
elevation of book-case following description of a method when closed. Scale, ij inches to 1 foot. of heating a small greenhouse with
gas, in the hope that it may be of use to some of the readers of Amateur Work. " I have found it," he says, " most effectual for heating my
The breadth
was stated above to be 28i inches, or 2 feet \\ inches, and the length of each shelf, there being five in all, is 2 feet 3 inches, which leaves i\ inches for the thickness of the two sides, showing that the case
of I inch
total
stuff,
is
is
6 feet 6 inches
by 4
feet
6 inches,
It is
a pity
or stuff planed
is
down
to \ inch.
made The
he
we
stated,
shelves,
feet
feet 3 inches,
there being, as
be
feet
inches,
inches
the
mean
height
long.
Supposing
would then be
6 feet 6 inches,
the average
thickness of the
and
the
cubic
trifle
books
content a
inch, there
for
is
room
ing
the
fit-
box and
tings are
shown
enough accomillus-
clearly
in
the
The book-case
is
panying
therefore large
to con-
enough
tain
choice
of
se-
library
exception of the
top,
2.
lected
authors,
which
is
of
and
the
is
con-
FRONT
brass.
The gas
struction
such
119
120
a No.
6.
and
it is
so arranged
that
in the box that the top of the flame is \ inch below In Fig. 4, A is the the top of the box when lighted. box, which is 9 inches by 9 inches, and 7 inches in height, giving a cubic content of 567 cubic inches or
little less
board
My
and with these semicircular bits of thick pastehave since got all the ornament that I needed. brackets were black and gold, and I find these
is),
I
wads take the gold paint very well. They are quite smooth on one side, and quite smooth enough on the
edge
for all
than
if
cubic foot.
It is
useful to
know
this,
my purposes.
am pleased
to tell
you of my
because,
a box
made
in this
in
may be many
other amateurs
who
cubic content to \ cubic foot will heat 190 cubic feet of space, it will take a box cubic foot in content, or
may
be,
and
whom
and
small matter.
My plan
spread pretty
feet,
and so
on.
With regard
;
has been
said,
pressing the wads into place leave them to dry. They enclose some drawings I stick exceedingly tightly. of brackets to illustrate In these, Fig.
5
must be made of sheet brass C is a gas jet, fitted, as directed, with a No. 6 nipple, which is suitable for If the box be made larger, the the size of the box. number of nipples or burners must be increased, or a nipple of a larger size must be used. An opening is shown at D for lighting the gas, fitted with a slide, which must be closed as soon as the gas is lighted. E is a pipe to carry away the fumes of the gas and the products of combustion the pipe is 2 inches in diameter, and must be taken up through the roof or any suitable outlet, into the open air. The pipe for gas supply is shown at F. Another pipe, G, 2 inches in diameter, is brought into the box from the outside, in order to a supply of air necessary for the maintenance of the flame, and a small pane of glass is inserted in one side of the box at H, so that it may be seen whether or not the gas is alight. Heat is diffused through the house by radiation from the sides of the box; and if the box be well made no fume can possibly escape and cause injury to the plants in the house,
;
my manner
of using.
shows, on a somewhat larger scale than the other two, the method of attaching the gun wads by the part that is cut to the inner edge of a moulding or plain piece of wood. In Fig. 6, which
represents a shield-shaped bracket, with two shelves almost in the form of a shield projecting from the back
semi gun wads are attached to the lower edge of the shelves, as in Fig. 5, and laid flat round In Fig. 7, which represents a the edge of the back. double bracket, the two shelves being arranged so as to form a kind of box open on three sides, the gun wads are put on edge-wise round the outer edge of
part, the
the back
shelf, flush
with the
edge.
seen some descriptions of clothes-horses in Amateur Work, I send a sketch of one called,In appearance it think, "An American Dryer." I
Having
air
through the
pipe G, not only tends to supply air to the flames, but helps to carry off the fumes by forcing the heated and
vitiated air in the
exit pipe at
E.
If
When not in use the ribs x or eight in number) are drawn up by ropes through small pulleys fixed to top ring, so that the
the ground upside down.
(s
:
house, this
may be
effected
tin
by placing a shallow vessel a small baking example on the top of the box.
for
III. A
both top ring and ring to made on the principle of those of a " giant stride," the whole revolves round by the action of the wind on the clothes, which are
whole closes up
and
if
which ends
Being lately in want of something suitable to ornament several simple brackets that I had made, and which were rather stiff and angular, I was a good deal
puzzled
how
to get
have no
as
I
lathe,
may have
to
if
1
make
I
so
many odds
and ends
It
ornament
stop buying
my
should never
that
ful-
had several gun wads had never used, and that had been prevented
occurred to
their
me
that
filling
destiny through
my
lately
using
filled
suspended from the horizontal ropes stretched between It is specially adapted for small back yards the ribs. or limited garden space, and is, I think, fully within the grasp of any amateur who can do a little simple carpentry. The number of ribs can be increased for a large machine, and the size, of course, must be proThe portional to space into which it is to be placed. indeed, it central pole may be fixed in the ground must be if it be much larger and longer than an ordinary clothes-post or if small enough and light enough for removal at pleasure, it may be fixed, when in use, in a socket constructed for its reception in a manner similar to those frequently let into the ground to take
cartridges.
I
wanted.
With a
razor
clothes-posts of the
common
type,
and
fitted
with a
THE DULCIMER
THE DULCIMER:
:
HOW TO MAKE
A
piece of pine
bridge.
IT
HOW
TO MAKE
IT.
By CHARLES GRIT.
is next required for an inside This must come up level with, and be let into, the top and bottom pieces and as it must be underneath the outside bridge, I will now show the proper
;
intend to give
place for
it.
mer-making, so that any amateur desirous of making one of these sweet-toned instruments can do so, with little trouble and (what is mare important to some) with little expense. Of course, it can be done cheaper by buying inferior material but if the amateur wants the best returns for his trouble and money, let him buy the best material.
;
Divide the top and bottom of the dulcimer into five equal parts, and fix the bridge at the end of the third section, counting from the right-hand side, this gives
With this object in view, let him go to a wood-yard he has not the wood on hand), and buy two pieces of good, sound, English oak, clear of knots, 22 inches
(if
long,
and
one piece, 46
inches long, 2J inches broad, and 2 inches thick, for the bottom and a similar piece 20 inches long for the
;
top.
to the
workshop, commence
Having got them nicely squared, mark off | inch along side, and bevel the wood down to the mark, the piece will then be 3 inches deep on the inside, and 2^ inches on the outside, see Fig. 1. Both sides must be made perfectly alike. Each end must now be cut aslant, as shown in Fig. 2 to do this, mark off 2 inches at each end, at the bottom end on the inside, at the top end on the outside then saw them through to the opposite corner, this will give them the proper slant. The dotted lines (Fig. 2) show the pieces that
one
; ;
and two to the left of the shows how this is done. Another inside is next required; this will have to be longer than the other, and must be fixed about 2 inches from the right-hand side, B, Fig. 6. Both bridges must be about i inch thick, and perforated with holes two pieces ot pine, about 1 inch square and 2| inches long, with a hole bored down the centre, must now be glued on to the back, 1 inch to the left of the bridge, and one ot them 5^ inches from the bottom, and the other Scinches from the top, D, Fig. 6. The blocks and the bridges must be level with the top and bottom, so that the belly will rest evenly on the whole of them. A piece of good, sound yellow, or Swiss pine, is next required for the belly. If it cannot be got | inch thick, clear of cracks, get it inch, and plane it down
three parts to the right,
;
bridge
Fig. 6
that
is,
to
when
it is
men-
cut out a f-
size as those on a violin. Before fastening the belly on, continue the holes that
have to be cut
side
is
off.
may
be the only side seen The ends must now be cut for the top and bottom to be fixed to them this is merely a groove I inch broad and 2 inches deep.
for the top side,
is
and
when
the dulcimer
finished.
and then bore the holes through the belly from the back side. We now come to a part that requires a little care that is, the setting-out and boring the holes for the tuning and standing pegs. The tuning pegs are fixed in the right-hand side, and the standing pegs in the
left
of the instrument.
We
A glance at
Now
possible.
Fig. 3 will show how this is to be done. prepare the top and bottom pieces, dress them
a pattern.
nicely up,
and cut them to fit into the sides as tight as Fig. 4 shows the shape of the top and bot-
fifteen parts to accomplish this, make a mark f inch from the bottom end, and the same at the top end,
this
tom
pieces.
Now
them
side,
wood
pegs, taking
underneath
right through from the upper to the keeping them clear of where the
fall, E, Fig. 6. This done, take two pieces of oak, 1 inch broad and J inch thick, and fasten them to the sides (with wood pegs and glue) to come up flush with the top and bottom, c, Fig. 6, this forms a ledge all round for the belly to rest on.
up the 19'J inches. There will now be fourteen marks, and fifteen spaces. On both sides of each of the fourteen marks, make another, g- inch from it. Now, evenly between the spaces 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, and 14 (Fig. 7), make two marks inch apart, then draw the lines evenly across, and mark off the places for the holes. Before boring them, go to a piano warehouse, and buy sixty piano screws, you will then
piece of pine
is
know how
less
them rather
must
tight.
The
dots,
be planed nice and smooth, and then fastened on with screws. The back comes up flush with the outside of the frame all round. Fig. 5 shows the back when put
Fig. 7,
have
been bored.
The
122
THE DULCIMER:
so that the wires will run straight
HOW TO MAKE
wood.
IT.
same manner,
and
Having got the holes bored on both sides, give them and the belly a good rubbing with glass-paper, then rub them once or twice with raw linseed oil, and let it dry in. The oak sides may row be either varnished or French polished.
if it is
Now
of No.
wire.
go
to a
9,
2 ozs. of
piano warehouse, and purchase 3 ozs. No. 1 1, and 2 ozs. of No. 13 piano
to string the instrument.
9,
The
frame need not be polished, as it is covered with mahogany, after the instrument has been strung up. The standing pegs must be as long, but they need not be so thick, as the tuning pegs. Any blacksmith
will cut sixty of these out for
a very
in,
trifle.
put
As
make
we
will
take
it
first.
Take a
correct
To do on the standing peg, and take the wire to the corresponding tuning peg on the other side, cut the wire about 2 inches past the peg, pass it through the hole in the peg, and then with the aid of the key, Fig. 10, screw it up moderately tight. Put the whole of the wires on like this. When putting the wire on, commence with No. 9 at the bottom, and take it up seven sets continue with No. for other seven sets, and finish with No. 13, passing those that have only two strings in the set under the iron bridge, and the others over it.
this,
Now commence
make a
loop, Fig.
put
it
measure of it, which is as follows length, 14? inches, from top of bridge to bottom of shoulder, J inch from bottom of shoulder to bottom of screw, 3! inches. A nut will be required for each screw (see Fig. S). Now make a hole through the top and bottom of the dulcimer, pass the legs of the bridge through them and the two made before, and screw it tight down. As the legs are only 3 \ inches long, a piece of the back will have to be cut out let the nuts in level with the back. The top and legs of the bridge must be about | inch
:
Now
broad
thick. at
one end, l| inch at the other, and \ inch This must be rounded off at the top, and a groove run down it for a piece of brass wire to rest in. Now place it on the du'eimer, on the wires, and where the sets of wires fall that have only two in them, there The arches are for the cut out an arch (see Fig. 11).
wires with two in the set to pass through, the others
The
may now
diameter.
tion
that
at the
Now
thick,
and
inch
a
Make
groove down the middle of each of them, on one of the broadest sides. Round the two corners off, smooth
and polish them, and lay them on the belly flat side down, and close to the sides. Now get some brass - inch diameter, cut two pieces off wire, 332 19J inches long, and lay a piece in each of the grooves. These
THE DULCIMER:
HOW TO MAKE
FIG.
I.
IT.
SIDE
WHEN
SIDE CUT TO RECEIVE TOP
BEVELLED.
FIG. 3.
FIG.
FIG. 4.
SHAPE
^ V
AND BOTTOM.
FIG.
5.
BACK.
A, A. Holes
in
back
to let
sound
out.
~3!C !/otnoiMfiiiQy
o
FIG. II.
MIDDLE
FIG. 7.
BRIDGE.
SIDE
C C
yiLrmnmrwij
FIG. 12.
cYo
oyo
o^c o
o o
RIGHT
HAND
FIG.
SIDE BRIDGE.
10. KEY. A
in
FIG. 6
FRAME OF DULCIMER. A, A, shows division into five parts. B, Position of Inside Bridge. C, Pieces fastened on to sides to complete ledge for Belly to rest on. D, D, Blocks of wood glued on to back for ltgs of Iron Bridge to go through. E. K, Wooden Y'eis to fasten joints.
124
them
the rest
may be
two in them pass over this bridge, and those with three in the set through )t the arches. The instrument is now fit for tuning. must be understood that the broad end of the bridges are for the bottom end. The tuning of the instrument to some will be the most difficult part but if the amateur can get access to a piano, let him set the bottom set of strings to the
Fig. 12).
sets of wires with
;
The
DE VEGA.
II, WARE-BRUSHES.
PPARATUS.
appliances
find
it
The
which
materials
the painter
and
will
necessary, or at
advisable,
some time
as
or
other
:
to use are
follows
1.
in the
it
Earthenware or porcelain
Brushes.
articles,
either white
up
to the top,
same
tones.
middle bridge is set correct, the strings on the left hand of it should be four notes higher than those on the right of it that is, when the bottom
If the
;
3.
Mediums
Pallet
4.
5.
set
on the right-hand side sounds A, the same set on the left-hand should sound E, and unless it does this, the bridge is not set true. If he cannot get the use of a piano, let him get a tuning-fork, and a little practice will soon enable him to tune it correctly. When I first made one, I could neither tune nor play it, but I was determined to do both, and, after a
little
6.
7. 8.
lint.
painting table.
9.
10.
1 1.
12.
1314. 13-
practice, succeeded.
Each string in the set must be toned exactly alike. The instrument is now fit for casing round the outsides.
can be done with white wood, and stained but mahogany makes the instrument look better. There will
It
;
Burnishers.
Essentials.
1
It
is
essential
that
the
articles
numbered
to 8
may
be
be four pieces required measurement is useless, as you have the instrument to measure from. Let them stand up about \ inch above the top of the dulcimer Smooth it nicely, all round, and trim the edges off. and polish it.
;
All that
play with.
inches
is now required is a pair of hammers to To make this, get a piece of cane about 7 long, split it down the middle, and then thin
I know that some have a weakness for and others are deterred from entering upon a new course by the thought that they ought to get, a complete set of everything that may be, however remotely, useful. The first class then become discon-
them
Now
end
fasten
washleather (Fig.
them with a piece of and you have your instrument complete. With the exception of the feet and arches of the outside bridges, the amateur may cut them out as he pleases I have merely made the holes, etc., for a pat13),
;
tern.
got a blacksmith to
make my
it
key.
When
second deprive themselves of the possibility of much It will amply suffice to start with a single pleasure. plate or tile, two or three brushes, two mediums, a couple of colours, a pallet, a pallet knife, and a bit of There is further a great advantage in having a rag. limited stock in hand, for the beginner is thereby saved the temptation, too often irresistible, to enter upon work for which he is not yet qualified. 14. I may be permitted to remark too here at the beginning that the whole of the following information
is
make a
for
it
hole in the
key with.
shall
after
be happy
one.
to give instructions
and
illustrations for
founded upon notes made of the difficulties exencountered by beginners, and it will be noticed that occasionally I shall have to correct procedures which I have found to be recommended by others but which I have proved to be
perienced and obstacles
erroneous.
making
aim
it
has been
my
chief
15.
WARE.
With regard
in to
and I trust that any of my brother amateurs who may commence to make one will be able to finish it without difficulty, and with satisfaction to himself.
the ware,
11.
an indication has
Vol. II.) of the
page
21,
"5
prices
some particulars as to Under this heading I propose to give some and sizes of earthenware as well as of porcelain.
is
Messrs.
special
is.;
Hancock
in
is.
&
make,
6 inches,
10 inches,
My
reason
that on earthenware,
if
good, as
it
may
be procured at the houses which will be mentioned, some good work can be done, and it is very much cheaper, and in a large number of cases quite satisfactory, for the student to practise upon.
These prices are for white and ivory. This ware is specially adapted to the wants of the amateur at the
;
Earthenware,
will
however, as a
class, is softer
necessary to state that, through the operation of several causes, he cannot now be certain
it
same time
is
by
trust those
for
and
and most
good.
16.
colour,
Earthenware plaques and tiles, tinted in one uniform maybe had, in most cases at an increased cost.
In porcelain the price
is
very
much
most serviceable articles for the beginner to practise upon are the thick earthenware tiles glazed on one side, and these are at the same time most generally obtainable, and from their fair quality, good glaze, and extreme cheapness, most acTiles.
The
greater, a 4 inch
;
by 2J inch plaque being about 1 5d. or i8d. by 4 inch about r.s. 6d.; and 8 inch about
Minton's 12 inch
18.
is
a 6 inch
5s.;
and
!a
These
may
be had
in all
and either round or oval. The * narily made square in sizes from 4 plates may be had either of uniform inches upwards. Prices, 4 inches, 4d.; fig. i. section of plate glazed thickness so that either front or back FOK PAINTING ON BOTH SIDES. maybe used (Fig. 1), thus presenting 5 inches, 3d. 6 inches, 6d. S inches,
ceptable to the tyro.
ordi-
They are
<jd.
to is.
useful
sizes.
The
_ /
FIG
-
u(.
both a concave and a convex painting surface, or with a rim on the convex
side like that
vary considerably.
list
According to one
V^
2),
by me, Minton's 9 inch tile is 2s. 6d., and his 12 inch is 6s. For work requiring such a size it might be possible to employ some other shape
or make.
2-
may
be bored
for
Either shape
may
be equally suitable
The oval are on the These square tiles are best adapted whole rather better for seascapes, and FIG. 3. SECTION OF DISH for stoves and mantel-pieces, or for the circular for heads, fruit, flowers, etc. walls, the painting on each tile either being a design Messrs. Kennedy & Brown's prices are as follows
for landscapes.
:
complete in itself or forming part of a large picture. Generally they may be used for insertion wherever weight is not material. There are also thin, oblong, 17. Plagues pf Slabs. or square, or round or oval slabs or plaques glazed on
12 inches, 3s.
9s.;
20 inches,
27s. 6d.
Messrs. Hancock
&
2d.; 10 inches
is.
6d.
one of the sides or on both. These are finer, and more suited for inlaying in cabinets, sideboards, thick book covers, such as the covers of albums or of books for, say, a collection of photographs of choice works of art, and generally where comparative lightness is an object. For test tiles those glazed on both sides
are particularly serviceable, as they
The
celain,
In por-
an ordinary sized new pattern dessert plate (Fig. 2) of excellent quality may be had for 2s., larger sizes proportionately dearer. It will often happen, however, that
at
may be
painted on
both
sides,
and so a
large
number
of bought colours
plain china-ware
may be
it
and
be got together in a small space. Messrs. Kennedy & Brown, of 17, Oxford Street, W., have furnished me with these dimensions and prices for ordinary earthenware. The prices
private mixtures
may
most,
plate.
if
not
Still
all,
of
will
is,
have a rim
in
like a dinner-
this
rim
many
painted.
19.
inches,
lain
in
Cups and Saucers, Vases, etc. These in porceform very pleasing ornaments, and are made now
3d.; 11
126
symmetrical kind than of any other but there is one shape which I have come across, and is so admirably suited to any sort of treatment, bird, flower, land, or sea-scape, and a pair of which, when well decorated, look so well in a cabinet, or in a what-not, that I parIt is called the Cabinet shape ticularly mention it. has an oblong body, with four flat rectangular sides, and depresssed, rounded corners. Saucer to match, and It is issued by the Crown Derby Company flattish.
;
Brown Westhead,
understand that pieces can always be procured through a dealer in chinaware who purchases pretty largely. Finally, 23. The Ware must be Free from Defects. be careful to see that your ware is not cracked, or
Toilet services
and
skill.
situated.
foregoing London houses are centrally Towards the west are Messrs. Mortlock and Sons, 466, 46S, and 470, Oxford Street, and Messrs. Goodes, 17, 18, and 19, South Audley Street, who keep large stocks, but are not unfrequently dearer. Those of my readers who live south of the Thames will be glad to know that a large and varied stock may generally be found at Mr. Penhey's, Vauxhall Cross, and when it is stated that he selects his goods from the stocks of some of the best makers, named in 6 (c), and that he supplies the students of the School of Art, Upper Kenningto?i Lane, it is unnecessary, having regard to the high character of that school, to add
The
would probably go to pieces during the firing. Flaws might be difficult to hide. Little holes are treacherous they serve as catchpits for colour, which may blister in the muffle, and spoil the work. Ware, the glaze of which is scratched, should also be discarded if delicate work is to be done, as the scratches collect the paint. On a chipped edge, good lining or banding cannot be done. New ware that is free from these defects is the best and, as a rule, the best ware stands most firings.
it
;
BRUSHES.
24. Material.
The brushes
Much
all
will
be made of either
regarding the
camel-hair or sable.
many
former as answering
ing that to produce the best work only the latter should be employed. This procedure is something like the
act of the
anything.
21.
The
his
house
in
Foreign Ware. To those who propose trying the softer French ware, I may mention the houses of Messrs. Lechertier, Barbe, and Co., 60, Regent Street, W., and Messrs. Brodieand Middleton, 79, Long Acre, the former particularly for china, flat oblong plaques,
To employ
if
it
not, as
is
think, better,
;
as expensive comparatively as
unnecessary
and
it
to
be
in
by
far the
The
and
convex oval ones, and the latter for some vases and cups of delicate substance and pretty shape.
slightly
The medallions
between these two extremes, and is to use the kind best adapted to the particular work in therefore recommend an I hand at the moment.
doubtedly
lies
work
for setting in
assortment of each.
The
s.
fol-
lowing
is
For 25. Special Work for Camel-hair and Sable. work requiring breadth of treatment, washing in surfaces, large or small, there is
in.
1
d.
in.
in.
d.
an advantage
its
in the use
by I
if
2
a 5i by 3
to 2
5*
4
si 5^
16 19
2 2 2
greater pliability
and
2|
3
51 4l
2%
3i 2| 4i 3i
41 3k
07 9 on
1
6| l
6
6 6
30
4
7
an even and equal For firm, layer of paint upon the surface of the ware. sharp, or fine and delicate touches, however, sable will be found more useful, in consequence of its greater
better adapted to leave
spring.
skies,
7l .,5*
9i 7 n|- 81
Accordingly,
for
grounds,
still
water, trunks
of
10
trees
or
Some may like to try their hand on the hard French German ware. For unpainted pieces, I would suggest application to some of the foreign houses in the
neighbourhood of Holborn Circus. Mr. Joseph Roth, as a 11, St. Andrew's Street, E.C., may be mentioned
large importer.
22. I may mention in this connection that as regards plain ware of the firms named in 6 (c), specimens cannot always be obtained retail by the amateur himself direct from the makers, some of
and masses of foliage, petals of flowers and leaves of plants, the bodies of birds and the first washes of while our sable fruit, faces, draperies, and such like we should take up for all firm outlines, in giving definition to stones and waves, in markings of trunks and
;
determination of foliage, in drawing pistils, stamens, seeds, and bringing out leaf-markings, in delineating the features, and generally in all work requiring
in
and
No
way
doubt
of practice,
much exmay
I2 7
the seller does not proffer the jar of water, ask for it he does not produce it, do not buy. The water
;
kind
may be
forthcoming, dip the hairs in it so that they fully charged. Then holding the handle
become
tightly
Fig.
Fig.
Fig. 6. f
'
Fig. 10.
Fig. 13.
fj\
Fig.
14.
Fig. 17.
Kill!
warn
BRUSHES : FIGS.
4, 5. 8.
II.
iiiiiiiD
9.
ti
mm
6.
7.
WATER OR SKY, WASHING IN OR GROUNDING BRUSHES. FIG. 00 MINrATURE SABLE. FIG. SMALL FINISHER, CAMEL HAIR. FIG. SMALL ROSE, CAMEL HAIR. FIG. SPECIAL ROSE, CAMEL HAIR. FIG. IO LARGE fHADER. CAMEL HAIR. FIG. FLAT SHORT SABLE. FIG. ROUND ORDINARY SABLE. FIG. 13. FOR LINING OR TRACING. FIG. BANDER. FIG. DABBER, FLAT TOP. FIG. DABBER, SKEW TOP. FIGS. SUPERFINE FITCH HAIR
12. l.u
15.
16.
17, 18.
BRUSHES.
FIGS. 19,
20. SOFTENERS.
It is impossible to produce a highly-finished work with bad tools. In a good brush, when dry, the body
is
perfectly elastic,
lie
and
A
been
tested.
brush should not be purchased without having Always test your brushes in water. If
between the ends of the thumb and second finger, suddenly depress the latter, retaining the brush between the thumb and the first finger. This jerk will send off the superfluous water, and then the brush, if good, will at its end present, if a round or small flat
one, a fine point,
if
a large
flat
128
if inch,
:
io^d.; 2 inches,
Fig.
5,
Siberian
hair
(b.)
f inch, iod.; % inch, is. For General Use in the ordinary run of Painting,
it is
not a good
found most serviceable, the sizes varying according to the size of the work in hand. Fig. 6, an extremely
fine sable, is for the
brush.
Cautions.
in the features
iris, etc.
(a.)
A common
the
test is to
moisten the
the
Figs.
mouth, and draw the hairs together through the lips. This is a procedure giving most uncertain results, not to mention an obvious objection to it. In a brush not absolutely worthless, but a long way from being thoroughly useful, the stickiness communicated by the saliva would impart
in
brush slightly
and 9, in quills, are a special make of Messrs. Hancock and Sons, and are of sizes very generally useful. Fig. 10, and a size or two smaller than that
represented, are useful in large shading, such as broad draperies in big paintings,
1 1
and
stiffer
in foregrounds.
Fig.
is
a shortish,
flat
amount of cohesion, causing a point which under the proper test would never
(b.)
than usual.
Fig. 12
an ordinary round
flat
sable.
Both these
last are in
form.
One
further
caution
is
necessary,
and
is
round and
brushes,
it
may be
addressed rather to those living in the country. may be that a piece of work is in hand which it
It
is
are often a
little
more
desired to finish quickly, but through some accident the suitable brushes have become useless. For convenience, application for new brushes is made at the nearest shop professing to
sell artists'
them.
This point will be further noticed by and by. Both sables and camel-hair may be obtained in quills
The
first
materials.
Now,
a good many of the small and pretty numerous shops which make this profession act up to it, and at them
serviceable tools
and are of excellent quality. The last, no doubt, look best, and in the very small sizes are rather preferable, as greater care is supposed to be taken in the fixing,
etc.,
maybe obtained; but others, I am sorry to say, do not, and at these one may meet with
!
of the hair.
corrode.
Size
2.,
Prices.
8d.; 6,
Flat red
8,
6d.
4,
brushes already presenting a very good point, which, alas is more frequently than not the result of the addition of a little mucilage to the water with which
the hairs have been moistened.
iod.;
is.
2s.;
4,
10, 3s.
Round red
2S.; 9,
:
2, 6d.;
8d.; 6,
iod.; 8,
10,4s.
Round
duck,
:
miniature,
4d.;
is.
crow, 4d.;
you cannot conveniently search elsewhere, rub the brush between the fingers to remove the powder, and test with water as above suggested. A good one may possibly be found among
trifle
stiff.
are a
harsh and
If
6d.
Camel-hair
;
Fig.
7, is.
per dozen
;
Fig. 8, 8d.
per dozen
per dozen.
(c.)
Fig.
9,
and
3s.
Liners, Tracers,
and Banders.
Fig.
13 repre-
the
lot.
sents a brush
known
27.
These
(a).
to be
employed.
and
is
is
This
the work and the extent of the surface to be covered, and hence there is great variety in these respects.
Shies, Water,
skies,
and
would be likely to dry. It is used for drawing circular 'ines round plates or vases, and may be had in three
water
laid,
either of
which there is a pretty large sheet of colour, one intensity or graduated, and to be left as or to have the clouds or lights picked out, a flat
in
shown in Fig. 4, is generally about the best but in smaller or somewhat irregular work, that shown
brush, as
in Fig.
5,
which
is
is
perhaps
A somewhat similar brush, with shorter same diameter, is made for tracing and drawing outlines. With a little practice either answers very well for the other. Fig. 14 also comes into use in circular work, and with it bands of colour are described. The possession of it is not, however, an absolute
or four sizes.
hair for the
necessity, as with experience a large liner can be
to
most
serviceable.
The
made
do
its
plete line of
full
width.
Fig.
5 is
when
have
well
washing in large masses of foliage. Either brush answers well for back-grounds or ground-laying.
Prices, Fig.
4,
camel-hair
Prices.
Camel-hair
Liners,
is.
and
is.
6d. per
129
Tracers,
is.
and
is.
6d. per
dozen; Banders,
and
2s.
per dozen.
(d.)
Dibbers.
The foregoing
it
Those you have used during the day, clean when the day's work is done. While they are moist the labour of cleaning is not worth mentioning, and the time the
cleaning will occupy
is but short if postponed till the morrow, both will have increased. The brushes will be cleaned in turpentine. Ordinary turpentine, such as is procurable at oilshops, will do quite well, provided it be fresh and not oily. In cleaning up, as in every;
There are
opera-
when such an
These are Fitch brushes, or Dabbers> and Softeners (see Figs. 15 to 20). The former are employed to render even a coat of paint which it is perhaps impossible, owing to irregularities in the surface of the ware or from some other cause, to lay quite
flat
is
If
you
wish
to spoil
The
two shapes. The flat-headed ones are for use on flat or convex surfaces, such as the middle portion of plates and dishes, and the round of vases, etc. Those with a skew top, which is slightly convex, are for concave parts, such as mouldings of plates and other hollows. These two kinds are for ordinary work. The
small fine ones set in quills are for more delicate
you
an Aztec's or become curly like a negro's, down perpendicularly on to the bottom of the little dish or vessel containing your washing turpentine, but if you would retain it serviceable until fair wear and tear alone renders it otherwise, you will clean it by holding it in the turpentine slantways, at the angle at which a pen is ordinarily held in writing, and will turn it on either side, gently pressing it against the
stick out like
will
dab
it
work.
Prices.
is.
The same
the paints in
tur-
On wood
;
if
them
6d. each
skew,
:
8d.,
6d,
2s.
each.
In quills
;
lark
and crow,
;
2d.
each
duck, 3d.
each
The Softeners are brushes with very fine and soft hair, and, as their name implies, are used in softening tints and rendering them more delicate, and are most serviceable in such work as toning down the edges of clouds, producing graduated tints which vanish or mingle, one can scarcely see how, and often subsequently to the dabbers, to secure an evenness which they may fail to produce, and for which other processes that we shall have to notice, are unavailable. These are made in badger and camel-hair, the former being a most excellent kind, and round or flat. Fig. 19 shows a round camel-hair by Hancock,
(e.)
we shall speak due course. The plan I adopt, and which I have found economical, is to have a slant tile with three divisions put a little turpentine in each, wash each
are allied in composition, as to which
in
;
brush singly on the higher part of the first slant, and when pretty free from paint draw it along a clean piece It will be found that of rag and put it on one side.
the paint sinks to the lowest part of the slant.
all
When
slant.
be
at all tinged.
It is
necessary to state that a trace of one colour in a brush maybe sufficient to spoil another with which such brush
is
used.
Some
is
thus, blue
very easily
Fig. 20, a
iod.,
flat
badger.
inch,
disposed
of,
and
ad-
is., etc.,
according to
is.
visability of
employing
J inch,
2s.,
is.;
4d.; ij inch,
8d.; i| inch
etc.,
each
and up $ and f inches are the most generally useful. The above mentioned prices are for the most part from the catalogue of Messrs Middleton & Brodie. It may seem an excess 28. Cleaning{a.) Procedure. of caution, not to say an impertinence, to urge the
to 6 inches.
At the same time a slip may happen with even the most methodical, and a brush may escape notice when the rest are having their bath, so that when discovered next day or so the paint has dried somewhat. Now in such case do not on any account bend the hairs to
try
and
and yet experience shows that it is absolutely necessary to do so, and in the strongest terms. Cleanliness is needful in everything
brush.
painting, but in
no department
Many
in
is
break the hairs and spoil the to let it soak in turpentine for a moment, then hold it in front of a fire, or by the side of, not over, a gaslight until it softens. You will then be able to wash it in the ordinary way. If through the
desired purpose but
may
is
past the
removal
all at
once, or
it.
by
injudi-
To
preis
heat the turpentine has evaporated before the brush is soft, recharge the brush and hold it to the heat again. It may be added that an occasional mild application of a little soap and water (without soda) is beneficial to
obvious
do not
let
the brushes.
It
i3o
seldom, however, as frequent dosing results in spreading and curling the hair.
(b.)
side, there is
a strip at
and the
lines C, D, are
strip,
Caution.
In one
is
and tending
a /
little
bottle of spirit of
wine
in
which
is
to clean the
such a solvent
oil out,
/ B
s s
\
A
not enough
runs the
leaving
behind the whole, or almost the whole, of the paint in c'ots or fine needles closely adherent to the hair and
difficult to
)
FIG.
I.
thoroughly remove.
in
somewhat
brush
in
it,
and
that
the hairs are not pressed against the end, which would
turn the points and render the brushes useless.
In the next paper,
dealt with.
Mediums and
Paints will be
Another board, termed a and this is made as in Fig. 3. A piece of deal 2 feet long, and j feet wide, and 1 inch thick, forms the base of the block A, and on this is screwed another piece of deal of the same length, but only 8 or 10 inches wide, and f inch thick as B, and on B is securely screwed another piece of hard wood 2 inches thick, and shaped as C. Great care
correctness of the mitre.
shooting-block,
required,
{To
be continued.)
.
=>-=^=~
HOW
TO MAKE PICTURE FRAMES.
By U. M1LBR00K.
A
-
"/ /
a
/
I. TOOLS REQUIRED AND HOW TO AND USE THEM,
!
MAKE
B
/L
FIG.
2.
VB7
^S
It is
are so easily made, and appliances required are so few in number, that I think every amateur who has the slightest knowledge of wood-working tools should be I shall begin by supable to make his own frames. posing that the amateur has, at least, a strong bench and a few ordinary carpenter's tools. The first thing required is a proper mitre-board, and this can either
ICTURE FRAMES
and the
tools
DOUBLE
B.
MITRE-BOARD OR BLOCK.
at
an angle of
closely together.
;
The
rest of
they consist of
be purchased for a few shillings, or made by the amateur. There are, of course, various descriptions of mitre-boards in use, some being far more complicated than others.
I
a vice for holding the moulding when putting the frame together, and an iron block plane. The nails used for fixing the corners of the frame are what are
shall,
of two of the most simple, and at the same time the most suitable for occasional work. Fig. 1 is made
simply of two pieces of either deal or beech wood, A being about 24 inches long, 9 inches wide, and 1 inch thick and B being of the same length, but 4 inches
;
wide, and
inches thick.
and then
either nailed or
C, d,
should be carefully
when marked
;
FIG.
3.
SHOOTING
BLOCK.
this
is
at the
and can be
and then sawn through to a. Too much care cannot be exercised in getting these lines exact, as upon their correctness depends the whole
correct angle, 45,
obtained of various lengths from any hardware dealer. Churchill and Co., Cross Street, Finsbury, or any good
carpenter's ironmonger, would be able to supply the
success
similar
of the
mitre-board.
to
Fig. 2
is
made
in
a
of
may add,
manner
Fig.
1,
except
that instead
WA YS AND MEANS
Before
frame, the
131
commencing
size
to cut the
moulding
for
marked on the inner, or "rebate" edge of the moulding, and the moulding then cut in the mitre-board.
tenon, or back saw, is generally used for cutting the moulding, as a coarse-set saw is apt to splinter off the composition from the face of the moulding. After cutting off the four pieces of moulding required for
the sides and ends of the frame, the faces of the mitres require to be smoothed, and for this purpose the shooting-block is used. The corresponding sides and ends of the frame must be exactly of the same
length, otherwise
slight mistakes
in the length
may be
rectified
by
means
plane
of the plane
is
iron
amateur can easily cut the glass himhe requires for the puipose, being an ordinary glazier's diamond and a wooden T-square. Backboard, for placing on the back of the picture, tokeep it in its place, can be obtained in lengths of 10 or 12 feet, from any picture-frame maker. It is very thin deal, and generally runs to about 8 inches in width. It can be cut to any size by using an ordinary knife, and cutting it in the same way as one would cut a piece of cardboard this backboard is cut so as to fit closely in the back of the frame, and is kept ire its place by the insertion of a few small brads these brads being generally pushed into the side of the rabbet of the frame by a pair of pliers, or they can be knocked into the wood by using the sides of a
preferred, the
self to
any
size, all
much
chisel or a small
hammer,
"Jack" plane
firmly with the
The back
of the
The
now
is
to paste
over
be on its side on a. After the pieces of moulding have been carefully planed in the shooting-block, all that remains is to put the frame together; but before doing this, it is advisable to slightly scoop out the face
of the mitre, being careful not to touch the edges, with a sharp hollow gouge. This gives more room for the glue, and admits of the joint being much closer
together, thereby giving a neater appearance to the
be found advisable to place the rings about onethird, or even half-way, from the top of the frame, so as to throw the top of the frame away from the wall,
my
next article,
their
intend giving
full
instructions
more
I
skill in
frame.
One
is
now placed
it
in the
frame.
perfectly
two or three holes are then made with a ; bradawl, the ends are slightly touched with thin glue,
and then the mitres are nailed together with two or three brads. The number and size of the brads depends entirely upon the width and weight of the frame. The brads are punched down with an ordinary punch, and the holes are filled up with putty coloured
with yellow
is
from
all
any price, from the cheapest quality at about one penny per foot, or even less, up to two or
at nearly
and
ochre, so as
to
hide
completely the
appearance of nails having been used. Should, as frequently the case, any of the composition with which the moulding is coated chip off, a little " bronze metal" which may be obtained of any colourman, is
applied to hide the white appearance. I am of course writing of the ordinary gilt frames, but in the case of
black frames, a
little
used
any defects on the face of the moulding. In large heavy frames it is frequently the practice to use a plain gilded slip, and this slip is simply mitred and
placed in the rabbet of the frame.
After the frame is put together, the next thing is to put in the glass and I think it will be better for the
;
Portland
cement
is
Cements.
The
it
longer
will be.
Portland
to get the glass cut to the required size by the glazier from whom he purchases it ; of course, if
amateur
At the end of a year from the time of mixing and laying it, one part of cement to one part of sand is about threeStrong cement quarters the strength of new cement. is heavy, blue-grey in colour, and sets slowly. The less water used in mixing cement the better.
in setting, the better
132
WA YS AND MEANS.
safety envelope
may be
by 50 per
the
cent.
is
This
is
wood
inverted, that
to
the flap with a solution of chromic acid, ammonia, sulphuric acid, sulphate of copper,
ground
grew.
which
it
and
fine
white
paper.
The
and when this is moistened and pressed down on the underpart of the envelope a solid cement is formed entirely insoluble in acids,
alkalies, hot or cold water, steam, etc.
Experiments have proved that oak posts put in the ground in the same position in which they grew, top upwards, were rotten in twelve years, while others, cut from the same tree and placed top down-
wards
in the soil,
for several
years afterwards.
Uninflammable Tissues. At a recent meeting the Societe d'Encouragement de l'lndustrie presented a prize of ,40 to M. Abel Martin, for the processes he
has invented for rendering
tissues
and
amalgamated before a
uninflammable.
The
different preparations
:
follows
1.
For Light
;
ammonia,
17 lbs.
fire, if the weather is cold. Darken, if required, with any colouring to suit. When well rubbed in, give a coat of shellac, and French
polish or varnish.
pure borax, 4
it,
lbs.
starch, 4 lbs.
at
a temperature of
Lard as a Preservative of Eggs. Lard is a more simple and far less disagreeable unguent for preserving eggs than paraffin, and quite as effectual. The method to be adopted is as follows Have any
:
as
if
per pint.
etc.
The liquid costs about a penny For Printed Calico, Theatrical Scenery, Hydrochlorate of ammonia, 33 lbs.; boracic
2.
1 1
may
be packed.
from
acid,
lbs.
glue
size,
lbs.
;
lbs.
gelatine, i\ lbs.
To
The
prevent
mixture
is
oily consistency.
As soon
put on the wrong side of the canvas, care being taken to lay it on the frame-work and mountings. With about 2} lbs., costing twopence, nearly five square
them at once which a layer, about two inches deep, of the chaff, bran, or sawdust has been already placed. Holding each egg upright a position which must be scrupulously observed in all cases, whether
as the eggs are collected, put
3.
For
of
thick
Cloths,
Co?-ds,
lbs.
;
Straw,
etc.
Hydrochlorate
lbs.
;
ammonia, 33
lbs.
;
rub
till
little
boracic acid, 35
borax, 6
The combustible
at
stand
apart,
well,
a temperature of ioo
till
the
first
layer
is
minutes.
per pint.
This liquid costs about twopence halfpenny Sulphate of 4. For all sorts of Paper
tea;
ammonia,
boracic acid, 6 lbs.; borax, 4 lbs.; ordinary water, 220 lbs. This mixture is heated to
17 lbs.;
It is stated 50 C, and costs about a penny a pint. that M. Martin's processes preserve their efficacy even
and
it
kept in a saucer, with the scrap of linen, Do the same with the evenwill be always ready.
as the fresher they are the better.
If
is
ing's eggs,
in a high temperature, in
have been exposed for several months dry and humid air. Some
room, and a little expense can be afforded, a board like a long shelf, with holes cut in it in which the eggs will stand upright, will be better than the
there
chaff,
white and coloured tarlatans, cotton checks, cloths, printed paper, and a cradle were placed in a stove at
to 37 C, and left there for eight months, and 35 remained uninflammable, the colours not changing. The first coverlet of the cradle, the curtains, etc., were also uninflammable. The wood was carbonized superficially, but would not burn.
for
these reasons
it
there be any),
can be marked in pencil against each egg, and the eggs can be used in turn. This mode of preserving eggs,
it
is said,
never
fails.
A
:
method
Preservation of
Wood
Posts.
It is stated in
the Farmers' Gazette, that by taking a simple precaution which costs neither
durability of posts put in the
These conby the introduction of a mortar concrete wall between the upright timbers or
thus described by a daily paper
The
wall
J} J?
ASS CASTIXG
filled
AT HOME.
:
133
is
and as soon as
Melt
the
off
or lower
filling
has
set,
gutta-percha.
To
and nailed on higher up, and the space again filled. In this way, the filling process and removal of the
boards being repeated as often as necessary, the wall may be carried up as high as desired, whether to the roof, or only to the top of the first story, but the full
height of the studding
is best.
and
Continue the application of heat, and keep stirring until a thorough union of the ingredients is effected.
hot,
or
The
plaster
may be
How to
to
which, of course, will be of the same thickness as the width of the studding timbers, usually 4 inches, and
will
sides.
But
to prevent
be nailed up and down on the studding on the outside of the house, and the siding nailed to and through these strips. There will now remain, when the siding is put on, a space of about a third of an inch between the siding and the wall. This" is not sufficient for a harbour for rats or mice, while it is quite enough to
insure the retention of
its
do this, apply a blow-pipe to the head of the screw, and it will presently yield to the pressure of the screwdriver. This is most effective in all obstinate cases. Nitrite of Amyl. A few drops of nitrite of amyl, it is said, have a powerful influence in restoring the functions of the heart in cases of drowning, hang-
ing,
or fainting. It is suggested, therefore, that it should always be used whenever attempts are being made to restore to life an individual apparently dead,
or
when
it is
a person
is
really
dead or
not.
In ascertaining death
warmth by the
wall during
a winter night, at least in a sufficient degree to prevent frost. On the other hand, the heated condition
of the outer surface of the siding
in
the nitrite of amyl might be used along with the test of tying a cord round the finger. If the circulation
summer
will
not
be readily transmitted through the non-conducting material of the wall, which will, therefore, maintain nearly the same temperature day and night at all
seasons of the year.
becomes any thicker but, if the circulation continues, however slowly, the finger-tip beyond the ligature will
;
fre-
A Plastic
brought
out,
Metal. A very useful metal has been which, under the name of " Richards'
is
An
little
commends
the addition of a
Plastic Metal,"
being
made by
it
Street,
Birmingham.
In
Bottle
Wax
in the
water bath to
has a remarkably close, hard texture polish. Its special feature, however,
equal to
to this
much
great affinity for other metals, this affinity enabling it to be readily " pasted on " with a plumber's
may
and melted
soldering iron,
it
it
is
thus
attached to remove
at about 450
Fahr.,
it
while
it
is
stated that
it is
it
not
it
DVEEANCE.
by re-melting.
this
The
where casting
with
two
AM
for several
all
good alcoholic shellac varnish, one part of boiled linseed oil shake well, and apply with a pad formed of woollen cloth. Rub the furniture briskly
with the mixture
till
Strong Mucilage. The following cement is recommended to those who require a mucilage possessed
kinds of scientific apparatus, mechanical models, etc. During that time I have often required small brass castings ; and great difficulty in obtaining experienced have as I them quickly, besides the great cost of small work, I
34
trying to
cast
determined on
them myself.
result
I
After numerous
failures,
is
piece,
off
and then
little
wider
filing
experiments and
the
now
I
obtain
perfect
success.
can
to
cast
almost
pounds'
FIG.
2.
anything up
two
SFXTIONAI. SKETCH
and
trust,
benefit
I
of
will
I
my
brother
amateurs,
describe the
invariably
method
use.
that
now
up to size. The bar was made from \ inch steel. The first thing to consider was the pattern, and as they are mostly made in the same manner, the following description will do for all flat work (lathe-turned work will be dealt with afterwards).
I
The
materials required
cost but a
mere
trifle
(a great
lid,
into
the
readers
of
Amateur
them together
(see
2),
Work
sec-
sketch, Fig.
fit
making
succeed.
And
may
say, be-
the pattern
fore entering
on the practical
that
I
shaded portion
in to
;
part of
my
subject,
am
ma-
showing
pattern
is
bar
position,
the
now
be buried in
will
amateurs
a
little
will find, as
plaster of Paris
I do, that
knowledge of
ceeding further,
scribe one of
difficulties.
I
now
de-
this
kind
is
extremely useful,
my
and
of
them both
in carrying out
work
I
in
wood patmould
expan-
kind
am
may
this, if
man
be possessed even
skill
that
bit,
of moderate
as a carver
work
for
keeping with the character of the work, are at all times not obtained without much trouble.
Into an old tin or jam pot put a small piece of resin as large as a thimble, and place
it
The
ticles
last ar-
in the
;
oven
to melt
when
melted, add a
piece of bees-
wax the
of a
size
walnut
the guides.
As
all
they were
alike,
instead
before the
of
ly, I
making
separatecast
them
them
(a
penny gum-
i35
all
just
the the
with
piece
place
CR OOVE
of cotton wool or
camel-hair
slightly
brush moistened
forms
the
core),
with
piece
oil.
then paint
the
all
over
coat-
of
Lay a smooth
ing soaks
cold,
in,
when
an-
on the
flat lid
of a
give
;
it
other one
when
ROOVt
PLASTER
FIG.
4.
pattern face
down
finished, there
should be a very
thin
film
all.
is
on the paper, as
Fig. 3, the dotted
IS
of
wax
pat-
REMOVED.
lines
it
showing how
afterwards
over
tern
Our
is
mould on being slightly warmed, the wax coating softens, and the pattern now comes out as easily as taking off
waterproof, and not only that, the
is
I
now
Now
put pieces of
wood
;
or cardboard round
now
ready.
lot, standing about an inch higher than pattern, and allowing the same all round or, better still, get a cardboard box from the drapers, and simply lay it in
the
the bottom.
Af
V
)
BAR
PATTERN
\
WHEN COMPLETED.
most important part, i.e., mixing the always mix enough plaster is very
;
V /
FIG.
5.
LONGITUDINAL
SECTION OF MOULD
was not
fit
it
Now
plaster.
for the
Firstly,
cheap.
an
inch,
all
if
now
sprinkle
it
must be smashed up
hand, stirring
hammer, and
or
sifted
mixing batter
is
coarse
or porridge, until
muslin.
Ordinary
of
do,
the mass
of
as thick
as cream, beware
drop
fire
out
will
the
making
if
too
but
in
thick;
you do,
there
must be no
coal
unburnt
them.
Now place
the
pattern
down with
of
wire,
piece
when the
in,
metal
let
it
is
poured
and put a
project equal-
spoonful of plaster
right
FIG.
6.
ly
on
each
side,
136
tern
now hammer
it
fist,
dency of iron
action of
sils
to rust
air,
when exposed
it
to
wet or the
but by
damp
renders
falling into
in
every crevice.
the lot until
it
When
fills
it
all
is
required
well
covered, pour
the box,
face or
and
if
any plaster
4.
level with
a table-knife.
of Fig.
mould
will
The Now,
they are protected from rust as long as the coat of remains perfect, because this metal is not oxydized by water or by moist air. But this coat of tin is liable to
tin,
first
from over-heat-
with a pen-knife,
make an
cast
is
due
to
purpose of which
double.
Firstly,
the rust
commencing
tin
if
;
and
first
on and taken
off, it will
same place
cast in
(very important
parts)
;
when an
it
irregular figure
is
the utensil
kept
filled
with
two
and, secondly,
forms a sort of
tightly
Now
it
Wrap
round
fire, neither the water in it nor the vapour of the water will suffice to keep the tin below melting point, and in this way not only does the part
with wax,
now
get
wet
all
it,
become unsoldered, but the coat of tin also suffers and the work of destruction commences. Even in this case the tin, but not the iron, is melted, and therefore
articles
Now mix plaster, do not forget the knockimprisoned in the plaster, which
;
made
tin.
of tin plate
may be
little
makes it full of holes. Fill up to top of paper, put away to dry for two hours, pull off paper, scrape until
you see line of division plainly, then gently tapping with wood, the two parts will separate easily. Drive a nail or screw into each end of pattern, tie a piece of string across. Now warm the mould from the back until the wax softens, pull gently, and out comes the pattern. Make two holes, one for pouring, and one to
permit air confined in mould to escape (see longitudinal
makes a
made
solders, although
have not tried the merits of those I think they may be useful to some
who
and transverse
sections, Figs. 5
and
6,
showing mould
previous to taking out pattern and core). Now place the bar back in its place, thoroughly smoke all the inside
more heat than the tinmentioned in my last. The utility of all solders, hard or soft, depends upon their property of not only melting at a lower temperature than that required to melt the metal of which the article to be soldered is made, but also to combine with the surface or edges of the metal to form an alloy therewith this they do by yielding a part of their heat to fuse the
require a solder to stand
fine solder
man's
by a
anything giving
off
When
Hence soldered joints are strongest when put together with a solder that will run at a temsoldered metal.
perature a few degrees below the melting point of the
made
which
hot,
will
we are now ready for pouring in the metal, be dealt with in the next article.
(
metal to be soldered.
To
-p
be continued.)
*""*"
Tinning
'
'
the Iron.
This
is
"~*****"*"~
attended
article, for
to before
the
has been
heat the
GEORQE EDWINSON.
it.
To do
this,
copper to a very dull red, quickly rub a file over the four facets of the point to brighten them, merely
HE
tin
plates
many
culinary
rest the
utensils are
made
are not
composed of
moisten them with the chloride of zinc or killed spirits, end of a stick of solder on a brick or piece of sandstone, and press the hot copper on it. A drop of
solder will melt off on the brick, rub the facets briskly
Tin is a very soft white metal resembling silver, and melts at a temperature of 442 Fahr.; but iron does not melt at a temperature of 2000 Fahr. The well-known tentin.
on the brick
in the
when
Another way
is,
to heat
up the
iron as before.
137
another method
of hartshorn
is it
on a lump
(sal-ammoniac)
The copper
must always
be kept thus tinned, and if it loses its coat the tinning must be renewed by one of those processes, for an untinned iron will never draw solder. To prevent the tin from being burnt off, the iron must never be heated above a dull red heat, this will be quite hot enough to
melt solder,
tin will
if it is
all
the
be burned off; practical solderers learn to determine the safe heat by taking the iron from the fire occasionally, and holding it within two inches of their face. Smiths do not favour amateur nor professional tinkers' irons in their fire, because the solder is apt to foul a clean fire, but the iron can be heated in any fire travelling tinkers use a kind of iron pail with
;
and just enough of this to flow into the joint and leave the thinnest trail visible on the outside. Many persons prefer powdered resin along the joint as a flux instead of "killed spirits," and I would advise the amateur to use resin in soldering tin, if he can make a neat joint therewith, as there are several points in favour of its use, the principal of which is that it does not cool the soldering-iron. Sal-ammoniac, or muriate of ammonia, crushed to powder and made into a paste with water, is also used as a flux. To stop a hole in the bottom of a tin saucepan, first rinse out the vessel with some hot water in which some washing soda has been dissolved, then scrape all soot and dirt from the part immediately surrounding
solder,
if this
is
little
flux
with a drop
If the hole is
holes punched in the side (see Fig. 12) as a furnace. The iron may also be heated by gas in a little contri-
vance invented by Mr. Fletcher, of Warrington, and sold by himfor2s.6d. and3s.6d. (See Figs. 13 and 14).
Irons are also sold
last,
new tin must do this it will first be necessary to scrape a clean spot around the hole as large as the intended patch. If there are several small holes in a
be put on, and
group, cut the patch to cover
the clean spot to be covered
this
fits level,
it
all
made
similar to Fig. 9 in
my
by the
tin
handle gas
this is put
is lit
on over the gas burner, and the at a number of small holes just under the
apply a
little
flux to the
place
upon
it
head of the iron, it therefore acts as a Bunsen burner and the circling rose of flame heats the copper. A
soldering iron to be heated by a strong current of
electricity
patch
in its
down
To
tally
solder on a handle, or
off, first
was
melted
scrape or
is
it
likely to
such
Soldering Tin
it
is
with
emery
It will
but,
if
the
new
tin
has been
soiled, the
faulty spots
must be cleaned before they are soldered. be well to practise using the soldering-iron by soldering two small sheets of tin together. Lap them
and make the foot or feet of the handle fit closely around the edges. Then melt a thin layer of solder on the parts to which the edges are to be united. Hold on the handle in its place with the left hand, press the hot iron on the upper right side of the foot, and dexterously bring it around to the left side, drawing a thin stream of solder after it. Handles on covers look best
when sweated
a patch of
tin
left
inch over each other, rest them firmly on a bench, touch a spot at each end and in the middle with the " killed spirits," and melt a drop of solder at each of those points to hold the sheets together; now moisten the whole joint with the spirits, press the hot solderingiron on the top part of the seam, and hold it there until the drop of solder melts. Then firmly and slowly draw the iron downwards along the joint, and the solder will be seen to follow the iron, and leave a thin trail of it along the joint. If there is not enough solder in the first drop to lead on to the next, press the stick of solder to the iron, and melt off another little drop, but be careful not to have too much solder, for the botchers' joint is known by the lumps and splashes of solder
sticking to
lies in
it, whilst the secret of a neat, firm joint having iron just hot enough to freely melt the
work from
incline,
wherever possible. the bottom of a saucepan is very much burnt or worn, it will pay best to cut the bottom piece off, and solder a new bottom on, rather than waste time and material in putting on several patches. But for this work we shall require more tools, viz., a compass a pair or dividers to mark out a circular piece of tin of stout shears to cut it out a smooth-faced hammer and a tinman's "stake," or a substitute for it; a pair of pliers and a " hack-saw," or notched knife. The tin must be cut with a diameter \ inch largei than that o the bottom of the saucepan, to allow \ inch to be turned up all around. Strike out the larger diameter with the compasses, then the smaller one \ inch within the other. Cut out to the first line, notch the rim in a few
When
138
places with the shears,
line all
and turn it up to the second around by the aid of hammer and pliers, and thus form a shallow saucer. Now cut off the bottom. First cut through with
the
Then hammer
fairly all
it
in its place.
if
discouraged
at
first
danger of breaking.
succeed in making a
it is
The proper
ing zinc
13.
is
hydrochloric acid
third
its
Soldering
is
Zinc.
Zinc
diluted
with one
a bluish-white metal, a lighter than pure tin, but not fusible at such a low temperature as the latter metal. The melting point
little
same
galvanized iron.
for articles
is
made
of
"Killed spirits"
unreliable,
and
of zinc
is
773 Fahr.
we may
Soldering Compo.
given to an alloy of
"
has been
largely
made
of
tin
now
but the iron must not be too hot, nor must it be allowed to rest on the metal. rarely meet with
We
used in the manufacture of small gas-pipes. Those pipes were formerly made of pure tin, but pure tin
pipes are rarely to be
articles articles
made made
but,
on the contrary,
there
common, and
compo
der.
are but few dwellings where this form of the metal is not used in the construction of rain-gutters, pipes, and
among
making
soft sol-
The more
is
sold under
grains, and other forms of unmanufactured zinc are often sold under the name of " spelter " but as this name has been appropriated
;
dering this composition, and they should be cast in very thin strips. If the soldering-iron is used, it must
not be too hot, but
it is
making
doing
joints in "
compo
this will
be found
in the articles
to designate
a certain
as an in-
Gas-fitting."
Resin
is
and
named
and clinging
and
Soldering Pewter.
When zinc is
may
by
there
ticles
unprotected
paint,
it
by a varnish or
easily
its tint
tin, anti-
common
pewter
innocent of cop-
afterwards bronzed,brassed,
instead of antimony.
FIG. 12.
PAIL-FURNACE FOR
As
its fusibility
its
varies
with
composition,
fig.
HEATING SOLDERING-IRON.
an
obscure
part,
and
If the
may be
safely
powdered resin as a
Britannia
up quick, and leaves a grey patch, the metal may be pronounced to be zinc for iron, pewter, Brit;
may be
said to be varieties of
tania metal,
affected
and
similar
and
by
this acid.
it
tion of solders,
and treatment
subject.
When
does for wire and for heavy plates, the metal thus coated is known under the name of " galvanized iron.
-
on the
(
'
To
be continued)
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
j===^5]ITH
\3Kfti^
three amateur
i39
illustration,
which gives a
far better
The
first
is
four,
its
Its
is
to pos-
being thrown beyond the axis of the lathe both in front and
and thus
to bring
it
within their
acces-
behind
legs
to a considerable distance
power
it is
to
sories to carpenters'
and
joiners'
work which
bed of the
strength
is
The
impossible to turn out in proper style otherwise than by means of a lathe. And probably it is in much the same
proportion, namely, as
the acquisition
between the top and bottom, by transverse bars, of which the lower ones are utilized, on
the right for the support of a diagonal stay,
machinery
lathes,
for
good
are
as a rule,
articles,
extending thence in an
costly
and,
upward
left
direction to the
when
fitted
with every
left until it
meets
the
hand
side
of the
genuity
contrived
of
man
for
has
lathe-
on the
axis
left
to carry the
amount of money
purses can yield.
that
of the fly-wheel,
rapidity
is
by which
revolution
of
insured
To
lathe
is
the
amateur's
indeed,
and maintained.
fly-wheel
tion
is
The
workshop,
sary
a most neces-
moby an excentric
set in
pensable
crank
strong
attached
treadle,
to
which
of late years
bar,
machine
back.
is
towards
Company,
produce a
shall
Colchester, to
the
The
is
fly-
lathe
that
wheel
for
20
in. in dia-
meter, and
grooved
to
permit
of
more
kept
in
revolution
than the
manufacture
passes
through
pierced
for
two
its
holes
as they
may be
in
Company,
Colcliester.
The
table
on which the
tensively used
the
ornamentation of brackets, sideboards, canterburys, and other pieces of furniture that are now so much in demand. At
present no distinctive
have been allotted to this useful appliance, which is illustrated in Fig. I, and which, for lack of a better title, I have called, " A Cheap, Strong, and Useful Lathe for Amateurs," with the promise of announcing the name under which it is to be known to the trade as soon as the Britannia Company shall have named it.
to
name appears
The bed itself is of planed and is 20 in. long. It is fitted with 2\ in. steel centres, which can easily be blocked up to 4 in. for wood turning,
it
is
fitted
which
these,
carries
it
two T-irons of
fitted
different sizes.
The
is
it
stands
is
15s.,
which we
all
with a circular saw for wood, with an adjustable platform, or a small saw-clinch, and it can also be furnished with emery and buff wheels for polishing, such as a
can be
must allow
jeweller uses.
lathes
is
The
objection
commonly urged
against cheap
capable of doing genuine work, or, rather, by aid of which genuine work may be done. Its appearance may be gathered
the double
strength,
most of
like toys
140
service.
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
Such, however,
is
is far
lathe,
which
not
"blown
amount
of rough handling.
From Mr. A.
Fischer,
I
II,
Book
for
Art Metal
which the reader must be referred to Mr. Heather's " Surveying and Astronomical Instruments," forming No. 170 of Weale's Rudimentary Series, the work on astronomy being No. S6. The book contains 196 pages, and measures
use, for
Workers." This beautifully-illustrated work, which is 14 in. by 10^ in., a size which gives ample scope for the production of drawings on a large and clear scale, will be completed in
fifteen
7i inches by 4^ inches its cost is 2s. Mr. William Reeves, 185, Fleet Street, E.C., sends me a little book which, in my opinion, cannot fail to prove useful
:
parts at
is.
and being published at intervals of a fortnight. Of course, no amateur could ever hope to emulate or imitate the magnificent specimens of metal work of all kinds, by contiplates,
nental artists of
all
work
but
artistic
work
in
who take an interest in the series of papers entitled "Organ Building for Amateurs," now appearing in Amateur Work. Its size is 7 in. by 4^ in., the number of pages con The author is Mr. J. tained in it is 48, and its price is Is. W. Hinton, M.A., Mus. Doc, Trinity College, Dublin, and, being himself a practical musician, he may be regarded as a competent authority. The title of the book, which gives, as
to all
it
and,
in
if
" Guide
wood
model them
in
to the
Furchase of an Organ
will
it
How
to
him many a hint for carrying out ornamental adornment of home-made furniture. Any
this
What
Cost
amateur
will recognize
which contains a balustrade ings, executed by Ed. Puis, of Berlin, after designs by himself and the architects Gropius, Zaer, Heyden, and Meyer-
brief,
many
heim
and Plate
4, exhibiting the
Gelnhausen on the
to
does, a complete
little
is
by no
fail
be suggestive
;
means
is
The
next chapter
in
and
devoted
a consideration of the
tests
which should be
Museum,
applied to
new organs
Munich,
for
These
tests
by buyers to
fourth chapter
and
Nos.
latest
The
fifth
recommend
Among
other designs
may be
carte-de-visite frame, in
is
admirably managed.
and foliage of the thistle, and No. 128, a Japanese cabinet in which the subjects for some of the panels are taken from ^Esop's Fables. I must not
blind, exhibiting the flowers
rabbits
omit the single symmetrical photo frame, No. 133, in which and ears of corn are cleverly combined.
chamber organs and the same number of church first of which deals mainly with a consideration of stop combinations and the effects that are most desirable in relation to them, while the second is devoted to remarks on the scales of the various stops and faults as well as processes in modern organ building, and the third to the shortcomings of English organ builders, and the superiority of Continental organ builders in designs for and execution and decoration of organ cases and organ fronts. An index, which cannot by any means be
sizes of
The
visit
termed exhaustive,
builders, in
is
and
in
have,
presume,
which
due
to
it
is
prompt Messrs. Crosby Lockwood & Co., Stationers' Hall Court, Lttdate Hill, to send me a copy of " Rudimentary Astronomy," by the late Rev. Robert Main, M.A., F.R.S., F.R.A.S., formerly Radcliffe Observer at Oxford, a work which has reached a third edition, and has been revised and corrected to the present time by William Thynne Lynn, B.A., F.R.A.S., formerly of the Royal
combined
to
amateurs
plan for
is
it, and that the author, who resides at Feckenham House, Guernsey, is ready to supply any information that may be required "at a fixed rate of charge."
this
my command
precludes
Observatory,
Greenwich.
Inquirers into
the
science of
"The
Photographers'
list
astronomy
book
all
alphabetical
of
prices
apparatus,
materials,
Not much
is
said
F.
Stores,
NOTES ON NO VELTIES.
andSg,
141
this
Newman
Street,
Illustrated
lenses,
Catalogue " of
cameras,
opticians,
windows and window screens treated with medium are open to inspection.
decorative
apparatus,
20,
Hunter
of
&
Sands,
The
which
Cranbourn
supply
Street,
Leicester Square,
London,
great beauty
it is
and
utility, is
IV.C,
who
ever)-
description
photographic,
applied.
Anybody can do
for
method by no manipulative
scientific,
and mathematical instruments. Amateurs will most useful as price_ lists and books of reference, and those who desire any information on stoves, cisterns, and ironwork and hardware of any kind will do
provide themselves with the current
skill is
required,
well to
number
of
when necessary
is
required,
Martineau
&
Smith's
illustrated
set to
work
as soon as he
monthly for ironmongers, engineers, machinery and implement manufacturers, etc., published by Messrs. Houghton and
Co., 12 and 13, Scotland Passage, Birmingham, and sold at Is. per copy, or 5s. per annum, if subscribed for, post free.
I
possible,
have received
from Messrs.
Letts,
the
windows of any
Of
ing
the designs, however, I will speak presently, proceedto a description of the simple process
for 1SS2,
now
by which they
illustrative of the seven ages of man, with several full-page engravings printed in
It consists of
The
that
is
colours,
colours, entitled,
accompanied by a picture by Havers, also in "A Christmas Errand," the whole costing
but do not allow external objects to be seen through them, being possessed of about the same opacity as ordinary tracing
paper.
The
is
only
is.
Now amateurs,
frame cannot
therefore,
reversible.
I
To
it
give
the
hands
at
who
are in
want
of a
can of
it,
may
liken
to the sub-
do better than provide themcopy of "Yule Tide," and the picture that is presented with it. The drawing itself, irrespective of margin, measures 27 in. by 165 in. The subject is a little
picture to
selves with a
girl
some
;
measure resembles, as
ration
jected,
it
far as translucency is
concerned
but
Deco-
possesses
when
it
is
The
surface of the
with
fur,
warm
interior of a
glass to
way from home to the village hard by on "aChristmas errand, "as the name of the picture implies. The figure of the child hastening along the road between banks covered with snow, is very cleverly drawn ; her attitude and look affording unmistakeable evidence of the
temperature of the air around her.
little
which the sheets are to be attached must first be thoroughly cleaned. It must then be moistened with the
in water, care
sponge dipped
the glass, and
much moisture on
the glass.
The
The
sky, perhaps,
is
is
too red
excellent, the
dabbed gently with the soft cloth, in order to press every portion of it in immediate contact with the glass, and to expel any air bubbles that may have got under it. This is the whole of the manipulative work required, and
surely nothing can be
and the
rich tints
the wintry
more simple or more easy In Figs. 2 to 14 are given specimens of various sheets.
!
is
placed.
oil
The
picture
may be framed
a
gilt
manner of
gilt
paintings, in
Of these sheets there are a great number, and it may be easily seen that by a judicious combination of centre-pieces, cornerpieces, borders, flat colours,
frame
but I should
and
leads,
an
infinite
number of
The mount,
too,
might be cut
designs calculated to cover any area of glass, of whatever size, may be readily made up. Figs. 2, 3, 4, and 5 are centrepieces, or corner-pieces, or panels for small
at the top.
windows.
For
And now
value,
rally,
come
to those
stained glass to
add
This
to the
is
number which each figure They are each 6 in. by bears in the price-list is attached. Figs. 6, 7, 8, and 9 6 in., and are sold at 3s. 6d. per dozen. are specimens of borderings, some simple, others more elabothe convenience of
my
readers, the
of the home.
McCaw,
rate
by
i,\ in.,
at 5s. per
"
Glacier "
Window
it
Decoration, which
as the
manufac-
dozen.
and
1 1
turers state
to be, the
for stained
even
windows.
per
glass that has yet been offered to the public. for this beautiful
in.
at 24s.
England and Scotland are Messrs. Perry and Co., Limited, Holborn Viaduct, London, from whom all information with regard to it can be obtained, and at whose establishment, which is well worth a visit, large
specialty for
character,
are
12 arid 13 are leaded designs of the same representing the rose and the plum ; these
centre-pieces,
and look
effective
when
carried
up
the length
of a long window,
such as a staircase
win-
142
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
dow
\o\
;
they meain.
utility
of
the
sure 14!
in.,
by
leads,
is to
however,-
and are
Last14
is
conceal any
in
join-
defect
dozen.
ly,
ing
the
pieces,
Fig.
a
fig. 2 (No. 505).
is
and
called
to give the
mediaeval group,
effect
of
real
forming
what
It
stained
in
glass
windows
junction
pieces
It
"The
dow."
in.
Choristers'
Winis
which
the
effected
the
measures 22 h
in.,
of
is is
different
by 10
48s.
and
sold
It
by
leads.
all
FIG. 10 (No.
16).
at
per dozen.
desirable that
the
forms a
fine centre-piece,
and
well
looks
extremely
when
surrounded
border-
may be enabled
out
the
to carry
with a suitable
adornment
and,
if
of
in colouring.
It is
im-
the
possible to
do more here
and supply a
little
material in which a
but
FIG. 6 (No. 522)
to say that,
in addi-
plan.
Very
rious
ground
glass
effective coloured window screens can be made by means of glass enclosed in wood
frames and
same
size
in
adorned
and
3s.
with the
"Glacier"
transparency
per dozen.
at
Decoration.
When
Flat colours
supplied in
in.
sheets,
ioj
said that
it
can be
injury.
squares,
diagonals,
and
sizes,
cleaned
I
to
without
diamonds, various
at
myself
think
am
that
inclined
in in
from
2s.
to
6s.
per
any
that
fixed,
case,
especially
and
FIG. 7
broad,
Si
in.
in
(No.
2).
of
it
glass
will
already
be
found better
fig. 9 (No. 523).
(No
529).
Of
and
course some of
the cut
to
designs
have
to
be
side
inward,
against
the
fixed pane.
will then
glass,
The
decoration
be encased between
without
in
care in execution
to
and
co-
an eye
effect
harmony of
be
be
cleaned
the ordinary
way.
The
be
loose
required.
Some
designs
decorated
pane
kept
of
the
may
in
do not require
the
addition
place
by
narrow beading
attached
sash
fig. 5 (No. 504).
-
of leads, others
to the
on the contrary
frame
by
fig. 13 (No. 13).
do
the
chief
needle points.
AMATEURS IN
AMATEURS
IN COUNCIL.
COUNCIL.
Painting on Silk.
43
Repairing Bicycles.
Correspondents are requested to bear in mind tiiat their qaeries will be answered only in the pages of The Magazine, the information sought being supplied for the benefit of its readers generally as well as for those who have a special interef tin obtaining In no case can any reply be sent by post-] it.
rThe Editor reserves tn himself the right of refusing a rep'y to any question that may be frivolous or inappropriate, or devoid of general interest.
ERRATA.
The following
43"),
Fleur-de-Lis writes in reply to Mebry I have not tried much beyond straightening crank or handle bar, but find this easy a work. The metal must be bent by means of a vice, and not struck with a hammer, which For large repairs it is is certain to crack it. much safer and cheaper in the end to go to a good professional bicycle-maker, and not to an ordinary smith. Rambler. The writer of the articles on
F. D. (New Belton).See article in Part VI., on " Satin Painting in Oils." The modus operandi, etc , in one case is the same as in the other.
printer's errors
on page
:
column, require correction 1. In reply to E. H., instead of "half a pjiain spring," read "a whole chair spring." 2. In reply to W. C, instead of " brass pallets," read "hass pa'let* ;" and for "relief panels," read " relief pallets." Gilding; Picture- Frames.
1st
"Velocipedes" will take this subject in hand as soon as he has fully discussed the method of making Tricycles and bicycles.
J. T. (Glasgow).
means difficult, it is lasting and doe-* not grow tarnished or dull so quickly as the
" paints." It would be well to protect such a table as you describe with a plate of glass placed over the work.
Electro-Gilding.
electro-gilding, nickel-plating, etc., will be given by Mr.
Christmas Cards.
K.
W. I am unable
name
Anode. Instructions on
Beimscombe. A series of articles on gilding frame-1 and carrying out such work in gilding as may be within the compass of
,
amateurs, will be given in the present volume. Some articles on G-. M. H. (Hampstead) gilding are in hand, and the work of regilding worn frames will be treated in due
.
Silver Chasing, etc. Silversmith. Instructions on this subject, as well as on repousse work and other methods of ornamenting metals, will be given in due course, but it is not possible
to say at
Edwinson
at some future time. At presentother articles that have been asked for claim attention.
Home Made
lian
Couch.
course.
Building Greenhouses.
Horizontal Bar. M. S. writes :With reference to the gymnastic apparatus described in Part IX. of Amateub Work, I would suggest that
instead of the horizontal bar being fixed, as shown in the illustration, it should be arranged so as to move u^ and down, and thus form a bar for vaulting over. This could easily be effected by fastening a stout piece of wood, about 5 ft. 6 in. long, to the front of each of the principal timbers, with holes
B.W.
I would
"A
top.
drains from the glass inside rests on the wood, and, whether painted or not, produces premature decayThis can be remedied by having the inside bevelled from the glass to about an inch or
off
bored at different distances, both in the outside pieces of wood and the principal timbers, through which a loose bolt would pass, enabling the bar to be shifted up or down. This would give an additional means of exercise. In case I have not
an inch and a half. The water then runs the wood, which will thereby last years longer. Ee--peeting the glass, have the squares cut concave and convex, so that the latter overlap the former, which will carry the water away from the wood. And with regard to the heating, I would say, have hot Sulphur, smoke, and uneven temperamater. turefrom other ways of heating, are evils not
to be desired.
made my meaning quite clear, annex a sketch, showing the end elevaThe blocks, tion of one of the pouts. would have to be made about a, a, three-quarters of an inch wider than the end
I of the horizontal bar, so as to allow free play. The jumping line referred to in the
article could of course be
bolts,
horizontal bar.
Soap Making.
SrBSCErEEB (Garston). Tour wishes have been anticipated. J. F. (Anerle?) Soap is run into moulds, in order to make it into bars and cak^s. As it cools, it hardens, and assumes the shape
of
Perhaps your failure is to be traced to the fact that you U3ed palm oi instead of tallow, and that your soda wa3 not pure caustic soda. I shall be glad to have the paper you propose to write, de-eribing the manner in which you made and heated a plant case in your study
who cannot make articles in wood for himself, wishes to hear of some working joiner who would supply articles of furniture, such as the " Bachelor's Sideboard" described and figured in Amatftjk Wore, at a reasonable though remunerative
Eric-a-Bbac,
rate.
or
is
Making Wines.
window.
An
Hanging Wall Cabinet.
Organ-Builder.
I cannot see
Xi.
S. C.
I cannot give an
illustration of
the banging wall cabinet that you saw in the ndow at No. 6, Haymarket. What would Mr. Booth say to it?
;
making coltsfoot, dandelion, and elderberry wine in the pages of this Magazine. There are ao very many subjects which of
necessity claim precedence.
Postal Photographic Society. This society, I am requested to state, has been set on foot for the convenience of amateurs for the circulation of private negatives, and for the exchange of photographs and of information on photographic matters. The entrance fee is 2s. 6d., and annual subscription 5s. Further information and a copy of the rules may be had on
application to Mr. H.
H. Cunningham, Hon.
Sec,
144
Organ Building.
E. W. (Kirkbj Woodhouse) writes : For the benefit of amateur organ-builder?, I have found Messrs. C. Lloyd and Co., OrganBuilders, Nottingham, who do all metal work as well as wood, to be most reasonable
in their charges, and a firm which would give every consideration tD the wants of an amateur. A. L. D. (Dtib'in) cannot have better or clearer instructions on this subject than those now appearing in the Magazine, written by Mr. Mark Wicks. Nkw Sqbscuiber. There is no intention of giving a series of articles on the construction of the American organ. X. I. V. Your letter was mislaid and overlooked, for which accept my apologies. You will have seen that the second series of papers on " Organ Building" was com-
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL,
W.
Construction of Barometers. P. sends the following communication on this subject in reference to the instructions contained in the article, " How to Coustruct a Bar"meter," Vol. I., p. 1-17
:
menced
in Part XII.
Pianofortes. Pianoforte. Arrangements are in progress for a series of articles on this subject, and due notice will be given of their ap-
Making
pearance.
Pianoforte Tunine\ H. The first of two articles on this subject is in hand, and will appear shortly. J. B. H. says: Many people are under the impression that there is a wondrous mystery ia connection with tuning these instruments but the art is much more mechanical than most people imagine, and does not at all depend on au ear wonderfully sensitive for tune, nor on a musical knowledge, but on the mechnnical vibrations, and a knowlsdge of the system of tuning.
J. B.
;
Design ior Fretwork Machine. Oak. Send the design you speak
of.
any information respecting timber is wanted, application shall be made to you as you suggest.
When
Carving in Wood.
C. R.
W. There
is
a practical school at
South Keusington for persons, both professional and amateurs, who desire to obtain knowledge of this beautiful art. There you might obtain working patterns as well as instruction. I cxnuot tell you whether or not auy amateur or professional carver
resides in the neighbourhood of
New Cross,
Hill.
W.
no occasion to wash out barometer tubes at all if new, and o^d should on no account be used the only cleaning required, and all damp inside the tube must be avoided most carefully, as it is a'most impossible to dry it afterwards, is a clean bunch of cotton on end of a, string passed through the tube once or twice, or swab of linen as he recommends. On no account pass wire of any kind through g'ass tubes, as if you do the tube will infallibly break in ashorttiine. The longer limbof the syphon need only be 32 inches, as the range of barometer never exceeds 31 inches. The recent height being the highest known for the last forty years, not exceeding 39*95, the extra length he recommends, 36 inches, represents a terribly extra weight of mercury, ond as thut metal just now is very dear, a good many pence are saved. The mercury, if bought from a respectable firm, is quite pure enough without being distilled, but on no account must damp be allowed to get to it before beiug pUced hi the tube. The best way of filtering the mercury is to t ike a piece of writing-paper and well dry it before a fire, then twist in into a cone with a very fine hole at the bottom exactly like the grocers do up sugar in; a little knack is required for this, but will soon be acquired. Now comes the worst job of all, the filling. Let your correspondent's method be tried by all means, but I fear many will not succeed with it. The usual method is to shake it in. but is a m^st difficult thing to de-cribe but if anybody wishes, I will endeavour to describe it. Now comes the only part I can really take exception at, the boiling. Has Mr. M. ever tried to boil a tube in the way he recommends p I think not. He would find the mercury fly out of the tube, and a lot be lost, and most likely the tube burst The proper way is to introduce an inch or two of mercury, very gradually warm tube, and boil mercury, allow it to cool, and add another inch or two, warm, boil, and allow to cool, and so repeat till full. But, sif, I have besn now twenty years in the trade, and have never seen a syphon tube boiled; the air is thoroughly shaken out, until when the tube is slightly inclined, the metal strikes the top of the tube with
is
;
There
the tube being level with the bottom of cuplike depression in upper part of cistern. When fastmed fill the ci>tern with mercury up to level with top of cup, part screw on bottom with the leather previously fitted, and you will find it securely held between the two surfaces of the wood. Glue a slip of paper round outside of joint, and it is finished. There need not be auy hole in side if done this way, and therefore no glue used that is at all likely to touch the mercury, as if once damp gets in the
ruined. your instructions are carried out properly, they ought to enable auy one to make one of these instruments.
is
instrument
If the rest of
Vernier for Barometer. E. V. (Bournemouth). The Vernier should be T'n inches in length, and this should be divided into 10 equal parts, each part would then be equal to inch by f s of j}, inch, that is to say to -? a inch by T J inch or 1 V
inch.
Damp
Damp. It
for stopping
in Walls.
in walls,
to give directions without a careful inspection of the premises in order to ascertain the cause. If ordinary means
is difficult
damp
have
failed, and you are unable to detect what causes the dampness, have the plastering entirely removed from the damp spots
and renewed with Portland cement, faced with Keen's cement, which dries perfectly white. No damp can rise or find its way through this. Let it dry thoroughly before the paper is put on.
Sharpening Tools. H. (Wak rfield) . In setting or sharpening any edged-too!, such as a chisel or plane iron on the hone, keep the tool at the same inclination to the stone throughout the operation. The back iron does not want rubbing. Possibly the surface of the wood was very rough, and this occasioned the first shavings, if they may be cabled
A.
S.
shavings, to come off like sawdust. In planing rough wood use the jauk plane first and
I. C.
hibition
is
desirable,
would pay its expenses, but it requires time and money to start exhibitions and carry
them
out.
Book
case.
An Englishman
(Boston, Mass.)
Designs
of
all air is
for b'iok-cases of various kinds have btea and will be given. In askiug for a design,
so as to stand handling without For varnishing buxes, ask for a injury. hard, quick-drying varnish. (3) The only remedy for the disfigured mahogany table
or
twi,
amateurs take .my advice, and do not boil, they will save themselves a good deal of trouble and loss, as very likely three or four tubes will fly during the
some idea
for
your
is to
and
I will
promise that
if
the air
of
is
well
a standard
instructions on the above process and the preparation of the wood, with design for photo-frame, which shall appear- in an early Part. For small locks and catches, write to R. Melhuish and Sons, 5 and 87, Fetter
barometer. Of course these remarks do not apply to pediment or standard instruments. There is only one more remark on cistern barometers. The wooden cisterns are screwed, and the leather is laid on the bottom, being cut to fit in c ide the flangs. Now fasten the tube ir the top, the end of
Paints ready for Use. Scarlet Bean. Every oil and colourmon now keeps common paints mixed ready for
use in tine hermetically sealed similar to those in which meat, fish, etc., are imported. The smallest quantity supplied is
1 lb.,
is 6d.
AMATEURS IN
Old Coin. F. X. E. (Southpart) writes :I think the coin that TV. M. inquires about may be a Liverpool Halfpenny. I have two in my possession, which I will describe for his information. The first has on the obverse the arms and crest of Liverporl, viz., the Liver surrounded by the motto, "Dens nobis haec otia fecit," and date 1791. On the reverse is a large three-masted vessel of ancient build, and the words "Liverpool Halfpenny" on the edge is stamped, "Payable at the warehouse of Thomas Clarke." The second co n is simi'ar in design, but on the edge are the words, " Payable at London, Liver* pool, or Bristol," and is dated 1794.
;
COUNCIL.
a
:
45
C. T.
photographic printtrausparent byapplying with a tutt of cotton woul the following mixture : Equal volumes of oil of turpentine and castor oil but when magnified in the lantern they are quite useless, on account of the enlarging of the texture of paper. To give a full description of the method of making transparencies for the nngic lantern would take up too much valuable space in "Amateurs in Council."
;
Preparation of Floor for Dancing:. Talbot writes The floor must first be planed as smooth as possible, all nail heads hammered down, well sand-papered with coarse and then fine paper, washed with new milk, and six hours after, dusted slightly with French chalk. A rough floor may be transformed in an hour by scraping up a common composite candle very finely, scattering it on the floor, rubbing it into the wood with your boots, and then dusting it with French chalk out of a flour dredger. White wax, and then French chalk, is best treatment for a we 1-stretched drugget, and
the chalk will
perfect.
Preservation of Eggs.
wishing every success to yonr excellent Magazine, may I be excused if I point out what seems to me a rather ridiculous remark? In the reply to TV. B J. on the Preservation of Eggs. Vol. I., page 53"*, it is said " Lard is better than paraffin for preserving eggs set them in bran or sawdust, small end downwards." I may tell TV. B. J. I have trie!, newly all the different ways of trying to keep eg.?s, and it was never satisfactory. A kept egg is a stile egg and a stale egg may be bought very cheaply cheaper ttian we can produce them in our poultry runs. Preserving in lime is about the best way. A paste of freshly slaked lime, I mean. But whatever is done let all strong smelling matter be kept far away from t he eggs, for whatever is near them of that will they taste. If the br-in is at all musty, then expect musty eggs. If in a deal box, then tbey will taste of turpentine. If sawdust is used let it be oak, never any wood that has a scent. The cork raspines used by the Prench in packing grapes would do, any greengrocer would be gltd to sell it, for it is only burnt or thrown away. Place the large end downwards. I always found that the be=t plan, and I had hundrelsof eg^s in stock at a time; this was some few year3 ago when I had a large st>ckof poultry. Tour remark about paraffin is simply ridiculous unless it was intended as a joke. Next to milk nothing absorbs bad sme Is quicker than a freshly laid eg?. If W. B. J. wants to know all about poaltry, let him get Lewis Wright's "Book on Poaltry," published by Cassell's. I have read nearly erery book on the subject, and his is by far the best, and may be had in Gd. numbers. Now I hope I shall be excused for pointing out this mistake. Tour Magazine is such a rood one it i3 a pity that this rep y on p*ge 530 should be there, as showing what appears to be a certain degree of ignorance of the subject, although lard is better than paraffin, I admit. "When a r is so good a small fault is easily detected, and when a thing is so good a *a.jlt is the less able to be borne.
J.
H.
A. writes
"While
CIt
is
The
sides
had betfcr be made of in. stuff, and you can groove them into the slips, if you prefer
it,
but in this c*se the sides must be rebated to abcut half the thickness, or in., and a groove of this width cut in each slip.
Joining Waterproof Cloth. "Wellin iBOKOOGH. Any solution that may be used for this purpose would be supplied by Mr. J. C. Cording, Ludgate Rill, E.C, or by Messrs. P. B. Cw, HJl, & Co.,
your fishing-rod were first black finished and then lacquered. To remove them, clean them and treit them as they were first treated, would be inconvenient, so perhaps it will be best to black them in position as follows: Cle^n them bright and smooth with wet brick-dust or with wet rotten-stone applied on a rag, then procure 5 dwt. of bichloride of platinum and
fitting* of
drachm of
Paint the
Cheapside.
clean fittings with either of the above solutions, and then dry them before a fire. "Whilst each of the fittings are as hot as
can be borne by the hand, paint them with best shellac varnish, and dry this hard before the fire.
Dutch Clock
P. (Old Broad Street). Instructions for making the above will not be given. If you wish to make a woo i en cluck of this description throughout, your best plan would be to buy an old on*. Tske it to pieces and copy the works. The result,
J.
E.C have some handy among their varied stock of tools and
,
appliances,
Hand
Brill, holding drill from in. to Jin., price 5a., and the Miller's Falls Hand Drill, No. 1, price 5s. Gd. ; No. 4, price 2s. Gd., of the same capacity No. 2 of the last-named drill is larger, and carries drill points up to The cost of this ia 12s. J in. in width. Drill points are supplied separately at 2s. per dozen. With any of these instruments
;
however, might not compensate you for your time and trouble. The wheels might be made without a lathe, but they would not be so true as they would be if turned.
you can make a number of small holes in close proximity, and then cut away the
intervening substance with a
file.
Lathing and Plastering. Talbot. " Laying " is the technical term
applied to the first coat of plaster, wnethtr on lathiug or brickwork. " Coarse stuff " is made of equal quantities of lime sL.ked
with water <ind afterwards ev.iporated, and clean sharp sand, to which hair is added at
from
to A lb. to every cubic foot of is a term applied to the manipulation *f the second coat in threecoat work. The float is either short, in
lb.
stuff,
"Floating"
Re-browning Gun Barrels. A. C- (Gillingliam). There are various methods by which this may be done. This is one of them : Mix chloride of antimony with olive oil until it assumes tbe consistency of thin cream. When this has been done, slightly heat the barrel of the gun, smear it evenly all over with this preparation, which must be left on until the requiThe markings can site tone is obtained. be effected by means of a scratch-brush, after which the iron should be polished or burnished with a piece of bard wood.
Inexhaustible Fountain.
St. G. J. (Maida Yale). It has been explained that the fountain described in the periodical you mention is an absolute impossibility, and the error which W'is inadvertently admitted iuto "Every Man his Own Mechanic " has been corrected in later editions of that work. Self-acting fountains are described in pages 144 and 383 of Vol. I. C.
which case
for Camera. (Clonmel). The swing front is not as effective as the swing back. You cannot do better than make a pocket-camera exactly as described in my article on page Go, Part XIII. f reducing the dimensions and widths,
C. S.
etc., suit-ibie to y--ur
Swing Front
used for giving a finish or plane surface to the work by moving it in every direction over the plaster while it is
it is
soft;
or
it is
long, in
which case
it
is
dark
slide.
Dynamo-Machine.
(Htrtnw),The subject will treated aa a jcn as opportunity offers.
J.
W.
be"
handled by two men, and is passed over the wall in every direction like a long straightedge, in order that the surface of the wall may be brought to onu and the same level " Plasterer's putty" is very fine all over, white lime, well slaked, and formed into a paste with water, which is allowed to evaporate until the preparation is of suitable consistence for working.
of this Magazine. The latter of tbese, namely, Eushton's Self-acting Fountain, is well worth your attention. Purchasers of this contrivance have expressed their satisfaction with the fountain itself and its working.
146
Straightening Wire.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
Graph Composition.
F. C. (Carshalton) writes:In " Amateur's in Council," page 528, for October aformula for Graph Compositionis given, but I believe incorrectly. It should contain gelatine. The directions are also very vague. I forward a formula I have tried and found to answer. Gelatine 100 parts, water 375 parts, glycerine 375 parts, sulphate of barium, q s. about 50 parts. The quantity of sulphate of barium
Sympathetic Fluids.
Clarke writes The chemical preparation may be of some interest, as they
J.
:
The wire -workers' J, "W. (London). " riddle," namely, a piece of hard board
with strong pegs in
wire
is
it,
W.
passed, and then drawn off with tolerable speed with pincers on a piece of
possess the property of being colourless, or nearly so, when cold, and of assuming a colour when heated
:
of the wire
is
as good as anything jou can have There will he a for straightening wire. bend in the wire when drawn off, but you will get rid of this when it is cut into short lengths. A bell-hanger straightens copper wire by attaching one end of it to a hook, and passing the wire once round the handle
of a hammer, which he works up and down the wire, keeping it as taut as he can during the operation.
Half oz. distilled water, 1 drachm bromide potassium, 1 drachm sulphate of copper, pura. This becomes brown when
1.
heated.
2.
vary with the different qualities of The gelatine is to be soaked in the water until soft, then placed in the glycerine, and gently warmed on the hob, stirring occasionally. "When dissolved, add the sulphate of barium in fine powder and mix thoroughly, afterwards pour into a shallow
will
gelatine.
add
common
salt.
This becomes
Storm-Glass.
E. D. T. (Portsmouth) writes : I have made, or at least tried to make, two stormglasses according to instructions given by C. Clarke in Amateur WoRKfor September, but I find that the nitre and sal ammoniac will not dissolve in alcohol, perhaps Mr. Clark ha-* omitted something, as I have carried out his instructions to the letter, aud up to the present time the two ingredients are not dissolved.
Artists' Colours. E. (Peebles). The ordinary powdered pigments sold by the colourmau may be prepared for artistic purposes by grinding
beautiful blue
it is
when heated.
neces5.
sary to steam it You would find it difficult " to bend a strip of wood inch square and 3 feet long into a circle," without special appliances for the work, and success, moreover, depends very much on the kind of wood that is used.
add
Boil oxide of cobalt in acetic acid, and a little nitre. This becomes a pale rose
colour
when heated.
sufficient
amount driw a landscape may produce a very amusing effect. Let him leave the foliage of the trees, grass, trunks of trees, hay-stacks, sky, and flowers white, and paint the blank sp ices over with
of skill so as to be able to
Carpenter's Bench.
It
may be
them
on a
slab of
but
Before the introduction of tubes, colours were kept in gallipots covered with bladder, or, in small quantities, simply tied in pieces of bladder. Canvas may be primed with white paint, or for a more absorbent ground, with size and whiting. Varnish for Leather. H. C. S. (Surbiton). The following varnish has been recommended for leather Sandarac, 2 02. shellac, 2 oz. ; Venice turlittle driers
:
must be added.
sides, a piece of
wood
2 inches
wide and
inch thick,
is
nailed
one or the other of the foregoing preparations. For example, the grass and leave-* of trees with No. 2 solution trunks of trees with No. 1; hay-stacks with No. 3; sky with No. 4 and flowers with No. 5. The sketch, when finished, will have the appearance of a winter scene, all covered with snow. If it now be warmed before the fire, the snow will appear to melt away, and in a few seconds the whole scene will be transformed to one of a beautiful landscape in the
;
;
on the bench one end hangs over, and grips the edge
laid
when
height of summer.
pentine, i oz. mastic, in drops, 4 oz. ; dissolved in pint spirits of wine, and applied as Lightly as possible with a soft sable or camel-hair brush.
;
of the bench, while the other serves to hold a piece of wood against when using the tenon-saw. I certainly should not like to be without this
little article.
"Amateur Work."
wishes that Amateur could appear fortnightly, or even weekly, because the monthly form of publication renders it long to wait for a reply to a query or the next part of an article. I fear the appearence of the Magazine at shorter intervals would destroy its distinctive character. It may eventually be produced fortnightly, if the bulk of the subscribers desire it, but at present there is no intention of increasing the frequency of its iBsue. Attention shall be paid to fancy turnery, and some Supplements given on the
J.
(AnfirXd)
W.
Work
Marine Glue.
following is a Dissolve by recipe for making the above heat one part of fine india-rubber in naphtha when melted, add two parts of shellac, and continue to melt until mixed. Pour the mixture on a metal plate to cool, and when required for use. melt and apply with a
H. N.
(Argy/cshire).
The
brush.
cement
for
aquariums
by mixiog one part of resin, dered, with two paHs each of plaster of and fine white sand. Keep the mixture in a bottle tightly corked, and when wanted for use mix some of it with
Paris, litharge,
nished panel with ordinary tube colours and ordinary gold size, if it be first well rubbed with a damp wash leather; but a better surface will be formed, and better work made, by rubbing the varnish down with finely-powdered pumice-stone and a leather pad. When the decoration is finished, revarnish the whole panel.
subject.
E. R. A.
which
Stage Scenery,
etc.
boiled oil and driers until a consistence similar to that of putty is obtained. It should be used as soon as made.
A. L. (Birmingham). It was not found possible to produce an article or articles on painting scenery, etc at the time named. The subject will be treated, but it must
,
adoption wherever practicable. I differ from him, however, in thinking that the articles on " Boots and Shoes: How to Make Them and Mend Them," should be omitted. No knowledge, of a practical nature, be it what it may, can be useless, although it is not everybody that can or will act upon it, and then again in these matters, "CJtacun ason gout."
Patterns for Fret-Cutting. E. M. (Leeds). I am sorry that you were disappoinied with the " Book of Fret Patterns," No. 10, procured from Messrs. Churchill and Co. It is no doubt desirable that the patterns should be supplied separately from the amateur's point of view. Instructions for French polishing have been given in Vol. 1.
Smith" s
Work
for Amateurs.
J.
subject and that of wir?working have not beeu forgotten, and this is all I dare say at present, as far as my experience in arrangements made and broken
W. H. R. This
W.
Yonr want will be satisfied in time. Remember the old proverb that " Time brings everything to those who are content
goes.
Goy, Fenchurch Street, Loudon, enable amateurs to purchase lathes on a system of payments by instalments, extended over a period of not more than twelve months.
AMATEURS IN
Boot and Shoe Making".
not aware of any place where practical instruction in the above conld be obtained. It would be easy however, to make arrangements for lessons with any respectable journeyman in the
Dr. G. (Hyde Park). I
trade.
COUNCIL.
An Art
147
Artistic Modelling. Studbnt. Instructions on this subject will be given in a series of papers the first of which will appear in an early part. Terra-cotta work cannot be carried out by amateurs. The treadle of a sewingnm chine can be iitilized for working a small lathe and circular saw.
am
Carbonized Bran. The Californian Fruit Shipping Company, of Vacaville, California, furnishes the following information in reply to a query " Carbonized from an Eastern paper bran" is made from ordinary wheat bran
:
Shyebsmith. Patches on the upper leathers of boots and shoes must be sewn on.
Instructions for doing this will be given in the articles on this subject from the pen of
Japanning Tin. (Loughton). Japanning could not be carried out by amateurs, because the articles thus treated should be subjected to heat to harden the varnish. There is a lacquer for tin, which when brushed over the metal gives it the appearance of brass. This is made by dissolving 1$ ounce of seed lie, 1 drachm of dragon's blood , and ounce of turmeric powder into half a pint of highly rectified spirit. After the lapse of fourteen or fifteen days, during which it should be shaken once or twice a day, strain through muslin. A good varnish for wood or metal
W.
S.
in a retort, under which treatment moisture is driven off and a species of charcoal is obtained. This coal bran is used in packing green fruits for long shipment, and the patentees claim that grapes, when thus packed, may be shipped from the Pacific coast to Eastern markets by slow freight with safety, thus avoiding the high charges on fast freight. The company claims that tomatoes have been kept for six weeks when packed in this bran. It is stated that peaches will keep twice as long as under ordinary conditions, but this fruit, having a porous skin, is not as well preserved as other fruits.
burned
all
Carpentry at Home.
G. F. (Saltbum by the Sea)
to give instructions
.
It is intended
on making chests of drawers and ordinary household furniture of all kinds, and as so many correspondents in common with yourself ask for instructions in the simple operations of carpentry,
arrangements shall be made for papers on these subjects. Booth's machine for mitring is the best and cheapest with which I am acquainted, and his frame vice is also cheap and useful. These articles were described in Port XII.
Mephitic Vapours from Sewage. Oakleigh writes: It may not be generally known that some of the mephitic vapours exhaled from sewage are inodorous so
that they cannot be readily detected, but at tbe same time have a baneful influence on persons breathing them. There is a very simple method used by the United States Board of Health for detecting the presence of these gases, which is to pour iuio the drain, sinks, etc., a small quantity (say a
Lampblack
v.
Indian Ink.
is
made by
dissolving sealing
wax
of
any
G. P. P., in commenting on the method of fixing Indian ink, given in "Vol. I., p. 186, writes, But why use Indian ink ? Artists always use lampblack in preference, as moredelicate, better washer, easier to graduate, and does not wash vp when colour is passedovcr it.
Cutting Mouldings.
(Headley). You ask, " "What in the best tool for cutting mouldings against the grain?" I must confess I do not understand your question but if it be forcuttingmitres, I can only suggest one of Booth's mitring midlines, or a small tenon saw and mitre-
E.
W.
box.
chair mils and lower boards of yonr dados must be fa&tened by screws or nails, and the only way to hide the heads of
The
quarter of an ounce) of the essential oil of peppermint. Wherever the gas penetrates the smell of peppermint will be easily perceivable. The person who pours down the oil should not be the one to search for the
smell.
Hall, South Kensington, S.W., in connection with the City and Guilds of London Institute for the Advancement of Technical'
The
essential oil of
peppermint
by punching them in and filling up For heads of screws, holes with putty. may be made by counter-sinking, and filled with putty, plugs of wood, in even small ornamental studs or bosses.
nails is
Medical
J. B. {Rochdale).
Coll.
in-
A paper containing
of making up structions a small medical coil is in the printer's hands, and will appear in an early Part.
on the method
Size for Varnished Wort. P.P. {Croydon). When using ordinary size for stained work to be varnished, no more water than balf-a-pint to a pound of
size
should be used.
India-ruobei Tubing.
C. E. S. (ffolloicat/. If your india-rubber tubing is cracking, the best thing you can do is to replace it with new tubing, cutting
Photographic Studio. G. J. R. (Chehea), writes: In tbe November number of Amateur Work, in the article Amateur's Photographic entitled " An Studio, audits Construction," Mr. Parkinson claims to be the originator of the inward sloping side-li^ht. I wish to inform the writer that in the town where t learned the photo business (which is now 10 years ago) there was, and are now, two studios, one built with an inward sloping side-light. I know both the builder and the man "horn it was built for, and it turned out very inferior work to the other studio where I worked, which was a perpendicular side-light. I also wish to inform the writer that the above studios are in America, but we need not go so far for proof for I know of one very much older than either of the above, with inward
sloping side-light from ceiling to floor, viz., in Knightsbridge, London so I fail to see upon what grounds the writer basis his claim to original ityof the inward sloping ski e-light. [Like ideas frequently occur to different persons at the same or at different times. Mr. Parkinson, without doubt, has never seen a studio built in the manner which he describes in his article and illustrates in the Supplementary dheet, which is issued with Amateur Work for November, 1882, and thus he takes to himself the credit, and not without reason, of being the originator of
,
Education, is open to amateurs as well as to those who intend making wood-carving a profession. To those who are unable toattend the classes, information can be given by letter, and examples supplied. All necessary information, with forms of application and prospectuses of the School, maybe* obtained by personal application, or by letter addressed to the Manager, School of Art Wood-carving, Eoyal Albert Hall, Kensington, S.W. Short Answers to Minor Queries, etc. E. R. T. [Prescot). The paper you ask for has already appeared. S. H. (Fe<managh). Tbe papers proposed would be unsuitable. H. S. (Bromley). Your requirements have
out such parts as seem to be sound for other purposes. But if you have made np your mind to try to repair tbe damage, make a solution of iudia-rubber by dissolving, say,
i
been anticipated to a certain extent in the articles on " Electric Bells." E. J. D. (Glasgow). Hobert Scott Burn's, "Architectural and Engineering Drawing Book," 2s. published by Messrs. Ward, Lock, & Co., would meet your requirements. De L Shepherd's Btmh). Beyond the scope of the Magazine. MEDicus.Your wishes have been anticipated, and your suggestions with regard to other subjects mentioned shall re(Poriman ceive attention. C. T., Jnr. St/unrc). You omitted to enclose the sheet of recipes to which you allude in your
(
spirit of turpentine,
and
fill
letter. Nemo.
able,
valu-
this.
and
shall
The
bevel the end3 of the pieces from between which the cracked part has been taken,
and coat the ends thus treated with two or three dressings of the solution. Each coat must be allowed to dry before the next is
possible,
put on. When tbe last coat is dry, bring the two ends together. Information with regard to "Incubators" has been asked
for.
Had he the inward sloping side-light known the facts which G-. J. E. mentions in his letter he would not have done so. Ed.]
writers in AmateueWork, avoid technicaliA. B. Your want ties as much as possible. has been anticipated. R. W. (AngUsea).'No. (liardtea). The subject has been conE. tinued, as you willhave seen. J. V. Per ranzabaioc). The manufacture of moulds in gelatine is described in the papers on " Casting in Plaster," in Vol. I. B. W. V. (Dover). The " gmta percba solution" you refer to, will probably be supplied by Mr. J. Dicks,
148
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
F. C. (Carshallon) is thanked for his recipe for a Shampooing Mixture, but, as it has been stated such subjects are not in
art.
"bootmaker, Holborn, London, E.G., to whom youhad better apply. Fleur-de-Lis. Your suggestions shall be considered. G. P. P. reply has been given to your question on dentistry, under the nom-de-plume which
you
selected. The difference between Amateur Work and "Every Man His Own
Information Wanted.
B, (Forest Gate) wishes for a design for a windoioc leaning cliair, by means of which windows may be cleaned on the outside without risk or danger to tae person
Mechanic"
that the former is a Magazine dealing with a variety of subjects of interest to amateurs, while the latter is a work complete in itself, but issued in parts for the convenience of purchasers possessed of slender means. F. J. H. Fernleaves, etc., between glass are held in place by the pressure of the sheets. Well-Wisher. Messrs. R. Melhuish & Sons, of 85 & 87, Fetter Lane, EC, supply sets of tools in leather cases. See Notes on Novelties,
is
G.
W.
Twig-a-vous wishes for a plan of a vivarium about 2 feet long, 1 foot deep, and 18 inches high, with pointed roof, the top and sides to be glazed, and one side to open. Light asks, Will some one kindly furnish details and drawings for making a Bmall model dynamo electric machine for two or three lamps. F. T. (India Ojfice), and many of his friends, desire a design with wurkiog drawings for a
small wooden mantelpiece with
tile
panels.
making
[This subject would form an acceptable and useful Supplement. I shall be glad to
receive designs.
light only
N. A. E. asks how to make matches that on the box. I. H. M. (Dublin) wishes for a list of works
Ed.]
on organ building.
Part X.- J. J. P.
(Belfast).
The temporary
W.
canes
J.
discontinuance of the papers on " Photography " was caused by the death of the writer of the first three articles Cratub. Practical articles will be given from time to
time on modes and methods of making simple household furniture. J. J. K. (Brides les Biins). There are many books on the manufacture of fireworks which the powers that bd seek to discourage as much as possible, as being a dangerous pastime. J. H. (Bamsbury). Your suggestions are valuable and shall be adopted and acted on as far as it is possible to do so. The prices of articles and places where they can be procured are generally, if not always, given. A. L. (Lee). I will apply to joi when a suitable opportunity offers. Harger Bros. The communication to which you refer appeared in "Amateurs in Council." I consider your designs for tret-work, excellent, but personally I prefer designs without figures of men orauimals. P. N. is thanked
for his note on the method of making a square hole with an ordinary centre bit. It is, however, only a " catch," which is pretty generally known, but for the benefit -of those who may no!: know it I append it. 11 Place two pieces of wood side by side in ihe vice and clamp tight. Bore the hole half a diameter deep, then separate the pieces of wood and 3 iu the bored surfaces, when the hole will be a square one (i e. t .square at the edge only) R. L. J. (Bath). See reply to J. J. K. (Brides les Bains). J.
be bought. Carlo wishes to know the best mode of bending permanently thick bamboo, say of 1 to li inches thick, such as is used in the construction of easy-chairs. G- P. P. wishes to know where he can get s x-sheet white mounts for drawings at whole:
may
sale prices.
cut the top off a annealed glass. A diawill not act. A. T. C. S. (Dresden) wishes to be informed how he "can cold tin some brass and iron articles without healing them, aB they are soft soMered. G. C. (Leeds) wishes for an article describing the best method of making a babyjumper and a child's go-cart. F. M. (Manchester) asks if there be any substance or substances that will produce a lather similar to that of common soap. C. H. C. ( Worcester) wishes to know how to prepare paper for smoke drawings, and if brushes are used, and what kind of paper. Experimentalist asks, "Will any sub-
L. B. asks
how he may
of
and stands water and damp. Rex Rogatb wishes for a description of the method of making and fitting together a spring mattress. [I am inclined to think that the plan you propose, according to rough sketch, would not answer, that is to say, if I interpret your sketch rightly. Ed.] J. B. H. writes, I shall be glad to know how I may make use of the treadle part of a Howe sewing-machine (when the top machinery is removed) into a lathe for turning small woodwork, emery wheel, and any other interchangeable appliances that are
tion,
useful.
fittings, etc.
1 inch boards be adapted ? H. S. (Dover) asks, Can any correspondent give in the pages of Amateur Wurk, Illustrated, the dimensions and particulars of construction of the framework of a Canadian birch bark canoe ? if so, he would
cutting
scriber
tell
me how
india-rubber to a liquid
Gillingham (Chard) is toanked for his interesting communication on artificial substitutes for lost limbs. There is no opportunity for using his blocks in the Magazine. is thanked for his suggestions which shall receive consideration. M. G. ( Wateibeach). You will have noticed the de-
and piobably others. It has been found that such a framework, covered with double canvas, well painted, answers well, as a substitute for birch bark, the canvas is very good. H. S. (Dover) writes, At tbe London Exhibition of 1862, were exhibited carpenter's benches of Austrian make, a small but useful size, 2 feet wide by 4 feet 8 inches long being offered at 10s. Does any one know if such are on sj.le in any part of Lonoblige the writer,
how
Chelsea
don now ? Scaulet Bean wishes to know how he may best re-poli=h old oak which has been pohshed, but has been scrubbed and so
made rough.
R. W. G. lEathkeale) wishes to be informed how be may make waterproof cloth, similar to the Mackintosh coats suld in the
shops.
scription of the articles about which you write in " Notes on Noveltie*" in Part XII. H. E (Claphim) is thanked for the "enigma in wood" which he sends. If any future opportunity oojuts it shall be illustrated and described - W. II. (Manchester). Articles on Model Shipbuilding are being .arranged for. 1 cannot say when they will appear. -D. A. P ( Northampton). The subject of varnish for violins has been exhaustively treated by Mr. E. Heron-Allen Student. I trust that an article on making a, Microscope will appear at no very distant period. A L. A. Your queries with regard to Painting on Porcelain, will be satisfied in the papers now appearing from the pen of Auielio Ce Vega, who is an expert in the
the address of any person or any firm who would execute for him the fret-saw work of some of the designs given in Amatkur
Fisherman asks
for instructions
on
Work.
Idloes wishes to know where he may get a on to his improved Lester Fr- 1 Machine. C- M. (Willesden) wishes to know how he
blower for fixing
used
Rambler usks
making
(or
and
must proceed
glass bottle,
get the
W. M.
A.
of it;
and
also
how
to dissolve india-rubber.
on making an
has tried benzoline (qy. henzine), and cannot succeed. T. D. (Bridlington Quay) wishes to know where he can buy a bird-organ, and the probable price.
He
B. (Gaiston) asks
any reader of
tell
him
shift to the
ARTISTIC MODELLING
ARTISTIC
149
AMATEUR
those
I
who
seek to
become amateur
to say
I
though
its
shall
have something
about
carving in
proper place.
At
first;
however,
must
toler-
MARK HALLETT.
I. THE MATERIAL AND ITS MANAGEMENT, TOOLS AND APPLIANCES, INITIATORY PRACTICE,
The Material and its Management. Any pure clay, which will admit of being
is
freely
worked,
Its
exact colour,
or less,
is
OME
as of
it
articles
on
to
Modelling
in
Clay,
owing
more
accessor)'
Wood
Carving,
first
have
not of importance.
Some
numbers
articles
warm brown
free
Amateur Work.
is
These
presumed that
my
present readers
will have read. They contain matter which may be perused with profit by the modeller, whatever may be the end to which he proposes to devote his skill and I shall from time to time have occasion to
;
tint. Others like the cool grey of a clay from iron, such as the Devonshire pipe-clay and indeed it must be admitted that the latter is the more general favourite. It is perfectly cleanly, being in all essentials the same as the pipe-clay sold in shops for
;
cleansing purposes.
is
to
FtG. 2 (A
SIZE).
refer to
artistic
modelling
in its pro-
some respects
pared, at about 60s. per ton, in large quantities. Pipemakers, both in town and country, will sell it in small A correspondent of quantities at id. per pound.
Those unacquainted with the technical processes of it as an art which deals chiefly with the mallet and chisel, and the shaping of the human form from blocks of marble. They are
sculpture, are apt to think of
Amateur Work
where
obtain a supply.
mistaken.
Carving
is
accomplishment.
only to give
statue.
remote part of the country, can benefit, and for that of others similarly situated, I may say that Messrs. D. Brucciani and Co., of 40, Russell Street, Covent Garden, the wellknown plaster figure moulders, supply prepared modelhe, living in a
For his
ling clay,
packed
for
some few finishing touches to the bust or His chief work lies in making the clay model, And of which the finished marble is but a copy. this copy is made by workmen mere masons in the
first
instance,
and
in later stages
by trained
carvers.
It is, therefore,
more with
I
artistic
modelling than
At the wharves in most of our principal towns, and of course at pits where it is dug, proper clay is to be bought in the rough state for a mere tiifle If the worker prefers to get (is. 6d. to 2s. per cwt.). The it thus cheaply, he must prepare it for himself.
shall
have
way
to
do
this is to lay
it
ISO
ARTISTIC MODELLING
bench, and to thoroughly beat every fragment of it with a bar of iron and whilst so doing to pick out all
;
makes
before.
and
was
stones,
which may be found. and beat up with it a little fine sand, which tends to make it work more freely. For large models this is decidedly an improve-
and other
impurities,
sift
Some
persons
in
ment.
not to
let
clay
which
is
out of use
it
The
is
when
prepared,
than that of ordinary putty, and nearer to that of butter; it must be in such a state that it can easily be pushed and spread out smoothly by
slightly softer
the thumb.
If the clay
lump with your fingers, fill them with water, and wrap the mass in a wet cloth but if the lump should be much hardened, the
hard, punch a few holes in the
;
of comes to mud, which seems for the time to have lost its power of adhesion, and it requires much tempering to bring it back to a proper state for work. Thus much for the management of clay when not in actual use something must now be said as to its management when in the model. Clay if left to itself dries rapidly, and in drying shrinks and cracks. This tendency, if allowed to take its course, would soon
;
can be avoided.
better plan
is
it.
to break
it
in pieces,
soak
it
in water
work.
and re-beat
Clay for use must be kept moist, and as nearly as regards softness which is
has therefore to keep his model constantly damped. For theirlarger models statues, groups, etc.
He
recommended above. For thus keeping it a box lined with lead or zinc was recommended in the beforeSuch a box, with a closely-fitting cover, is not to be improved upon for large quantities, but for the amateur, whose stock of clay will probably be little more than enough to make one life-sized bust, something cheaper and simpler will suffice. Glazed earthen pans are to be bought at the earthenware shops which hold five or six gallons. They are fitted with lids, and cost about 2s. each. Their ordinary household use is, I believe, to contain bread, and keep If the lumps of modelling clay are it from drying. put in one of these pans, the bottom of the pan just covered with water, and the lid adjusted, the clay will keep fit for use for months. At the Royal Academy, where each student has to provide his own materials, all the sculpture students use these pans for their clay. So at least it was in my student days, and I imagine the plan was too good a one to be discontinued. It might be convenient to have two of these pans, one to hold the clay ready for use, the other for soaking such clay as has become hard. Modelling clay may be used over and over again, and the more it is used the better it becomes. Some of my own stock has been in use for more than fifty years. When a model has been cast, or is for any
mentioned
articles.
intervals
by means of which they throw water at over their work. For things on a smaller
scale the
common
plan
is
to
fill
the
and
well.
to
blow
this in the
form of
fine
model.
find
No
can
an indifferent substitute
first
in sprinkling
with a
brush.
built
day or two (during which the newlysoft, and need a little drying to make it set) this sprinkling should be occasionally resorted to, and should never be omitted when the
After the
model
will
be
On
in
quitting
work
any consider-
wet cloths. Whilst the work is in its earlier stages it is sufficient merely to wrap the wet cloths well about it. But as it nears completion, and when delicate workmanship and finish have been put in, the modeller is chary of allowing the cloths to rub the surface of his
clay.
He
then protects
it
some two
cate
injure,
reason pulled to pieces, it is well at once to break up the clay into small pieces, say of the size of walnuts, and put them into a pan or other vessel, with water
enough to cover them, that they may soak. For when a model is pulled to pieces, even though it may only have been built up for a few days, the clay will be found too hard for use again without further preparation. But in water it soon softens, and a little beating
Some, instead of skewers, have a light wooden frame made to fit over their work, and protect it from being rubbed. But this is mere matter of opinion. Skewer holes generally do no harm, and are easily stopped the last thing before the model is cast.
Most modellers
of calico cloth to go
like to
first
hempen one
to
wrap
outside.
ARTISTIC MODELLING
If the
i.1 i
;
days,
cloth,
it is
work has to be left untouched for several well to have an additional covering of oil
if
which,
carefully
adjusted,
will
effectually
if
wood or bone. The chief things to be observed in making them are to leave no sharp angles or points, and to make all curves and curved surfaces easy and
true.
stop evaporation.
to
Yet
it is
always better,
possible,
examine your model daily, and to damp it if it is found to require damping. With proper precaution, models may be, and often are, kept in the clay for months, and even years, in a fit state to be worked
upon.
A wire
bought.
handle,
consists of a
wooden
each end of which is fixed a piece of bent brass wire, to which a working edge is given by
into
flattening
little
in the cut.
When-
extra atten-
ever
it is
necessary
but cold
is
still
greater
enemy
to
or to scrape
tool
is
a model than heat. If the frost once reaches his work, the modeller may be sure that it will make havoc with it crumbling and disintegrating every part that it touches. Care must therefore be taken not to expose a model to frost. Tools and Appliances. As a general remark, it may be said that the best and most useful tool in artistic modelling is the human thumb, and that those artificial tools are most valuable which most closely approximate to it in form. The forms of tools commonly used in modelling are shown in Fig. i,* and the reader will see in Fig. I, C, an instrument which answers this description. As the amateur proceeds with his work he will probably find it desirable to have tools of this form in more than one size. They will do the office of the thumb in places for which
invaluable.
may
mention that such tools may be bought at Buck's, 247, Totte?iliam Court Road, or Holbom Viaduct, an
excellent tool-shop for all that the sculptor wants.
tracing, or description
by
post,
to
be indispensable.
a turn-table top. The turn-table, used for bringing any side of work in relief before
made
stool with
the modeller,
is
shown
in Fig. 4.
Sometimes the
is
pin,
which
is
fixed in the
that
is termed "spoonform ought to differ slightly from that of the back of a spoon, it should be rounder and less pointed at the end, like an egg-spoon.
To this and the other tools illustrated in Fig. I, must add figures of two others whose value has These are been approved in practice (Fig. I, A, B). flat tools, so that profile views of them will be unThey are of large size, and their chief necessary.
I
use will be for " roughing-out." Instead of buying, the beginner is strongly advised to make his wooden
tools for himself.
They can be
knife,
boxwood with a
and
finished-off with a
and sand-paper. If he copies the four illustrated in Fig. i, and the two given in Fig. 2, he will have enough to begin with. He will then have learnt how to make others as he may require them, and he will,
in the course of his practice, find out the exact tools
and by means of this the work can be raised or lowered at pleasure. But this is not recommended. Convenient as this arrangement doubtless is, such a stand is always attended with more or less unsteadiness, which It is really better to raise the model is a serious evil. when necessary by putting solid packing under it, such as bricks or blocks of wood and instead of lowering it, you can always raise yourself by standing on something, which amounts to the same thing. Without the screw, moreover, the banker may easily be made by any amateur or rough carpenter. You require to have it just so high as to bring the face of the bust you are modelling upon it to a level with your own. 3ft. 3in. is a good height for a person of middle stature about a suitable width would be 14 inches square at top; at bottom the legs should spread two
;
There are also some minor appliances which cannot well be done without, such as a straight-edge, a foot or more in length, notched like the flat tools at quarter inch intervals.
that
This
is
for
smoothing clay
number
generally to
1, 4, and 5 have already appeared in Vol. I., pp. 12, 13, in "Modelling in Clay: an Introduction to the Art of Carving in Wood." They are reproduced here for the informa-
The " claws " in this, as in the tools, backgrounds. enable the instrument to take a better grip of the clay, and leave a better surface, both for holding water and for working upon, than could be obtained without
them.
Also a plummet
;
who may
not possess
Volume
it
I.
of
Ama-
smaller measurements
to save those
who have
the trouble of
compasses,
which
is
which are curved enough to measure across the shoulders of a sitter and a sponge of fine and regucallipers,
large
5*
lar texture.
ARTISTIC MODELLING
As we go on we shall probably find it convenient to add some other matters to our stock of
appliances, but these will be better mentioned as
find
the arts.
To model
a rea-
we
them necessary.
Practice.
demands no more
skill
may
Initiatory
It
is
hope
to attain
first
is
copy casts from This practice has such obvious should by no means advise the
which
something should be chosen which gives sufficient space for doing most of the modelling with the thumb, and which will not have much small tool-work
is
As a
about
it.
A subject
which
these
will
however dehe
meet
the
face
is)
sirous
may
requireis
ments
mask
(the
or
other
diiect
only that
of
subjects
the well-known
Apollo
Belveit
present
difficulties to the
has
such
and
I
beginner
find
with
beauty
as
it
will
^in-
which he would
it
make
It
is
an
difficult
teresting
study.
to
cope.
find
He
its
somewhat
life
would
larger than
size, being,
is
constant move-
what
ments
and
its
changes perplex
him, as also
termed
roic."
A cast
may
at
of
colour.
cast,
The
the
the face
be
on
bought
plaster
the
figure
is.
moulder's for
Get
then
this cast
it
and
will
be
without
the qua-
suffi-
with which
his
art
Forms
; ;
of Tools
; j
commonly used
;
in
Modelling. A,
Chisel-shaped
;
cient
size
to
alone
will
allow him
deal.
to
The
Tool with Bent Point B, Profile view C, Double Bent Spatula cr Spoon-shaped Tool D, Profile view K, Sword Blade and Pointed Spoon combined F, View from top G, Oblique Chisel Edge and Greatly Curved Spoon Bowl H, Profile view; K, Toothed Sword Blade and Bent Point.
;
by
venient angle.
in Fig.
5,
will
side, and at the same height, at a conSuch a modelling-stand as that shown be proper for supporting them, and this
;
he finds himself fairly able to manage his material, and then go on to something more interesting. And
here,
I
may
drawing and
quickly
fairly well.
To model
the
fairly well is
much more
and
It
is
you can set on the top of your modelling-stool or the two can be fixed to a large board, placed on an easel. You have to arrange them at such a height as will allow you to work comfortably in a standing position. This is important. It is all very well to sit, if you prefer it, later on, whilst putting in minute work or
finishing
;
progress in sculpture
slower,
it
becomes
move
freely
from side
ARTISTIC MODELLING
to side,
*53
he
is
different points
and
is
different lights.
having chosen a
slate for
to build
up
his material
gained.
be used,
for
First
This is a second point for the beginner to bear mind, and whilst doing so he will remember that
roughing-out
it is
in
in
This is to make the clay adhere properly. You can then begin to build up the model so as roughly to resemble
damp
keep all his forms somewhat, smaller and especially somewhat thinner, than his pattern since as he proceeds to finish his model, it will necessarily grow larger the form and proportions of the cast. with the small pieces which he will The best way to do this building up, continue to add. Of course I do not is to take a slip or roll of clay, say as mean to say that he is never to cut big as a finger, and lay it against the off, background. or push back, or scrape down. Then with the right That would be absurd. Accidents and thumb, which must be drawn firmly blunders in his work will at times and evenly over it, press it down to its render these operations necessary. But place, and so go on adding and pressing down more pieces till the desired form ai he is to avoid them as much as possible, and, so far as he can, to get the proper is roughly approached. FIG. 4. TURN-TABLE FOR Each piece of clay must be so forms by adding more clay where reSTAND. pressed down as to leave no air spaces quired, and smoothing it down. between it and the piece beneath and so as to adhere When the clay model is first built up it is soft, and to it closely in every part. may be easily pushed in any direction, but in a little This is to be done, and should be done, with a single stroke of the thumb. while it sets and becomes comparatively firm. The And here let me mention a point which cannot be roughing-out process ought to be well advanced whilst it is yet fresh and soft, as in that state any considerable loo earnestly insisted upon. It is one with which the alteration is more easily made. learner will do well to impress upon his mind from the In roughing-out it is well to keep every part large very outset. From the very moment that he first begins and broad, and to seek to obtain a resemblance to the to handle the clay, he should learn to look upon the cast in the disposition of the great masses only. thumb as his chief and most reliable tool. The tempAll details should, as yet, be omitted. The main features tation to the beginner will always be to use some may be boldly given with a few touches. The two At first it will seem artificial instrument instead of it. thumbs pressed into what are to form the eye sockets, far more simple to shape his clay with one of his and then drawn apart so as to mark the line of the wooden spatulas but if he will only persevere in eyebrows serve sufficiently to indicate the eyes. Two using the thumb, wherever it can be used, he will depressions made by the thumbs at the corners, and presently find that no other tool is to be compared slight lines drawn downwards and outwards give the with it. I have in my time modelled under the instructhe surface over with a sponge.
well to
:
tions of
A
ear,
hollow
of English sculptors
Foley ,West-
opening of the
hinder
limit,
and a
and others and all were agreed on the necessity of obtaining a mastery over the clay with the thumb as an essential in good
artistic
way
its
shows that
organ; and so on with other features. And it is remarkable how much of character and resemblance
modelling.
is
There
beginners
a mistake which
at
many
FIG. 5.
MODELLING
STAND.
make
the
outset,
sketching.
especially if they happen to possess some previous knowledge of carving. In roughing-out they are inclined to place a great mass of clay before them, and cut it with their tools into the required shape. They do this either because they do not know, or do not bear in mind, the essential differences which dis-
is
to
build
up
properly to work
down each
tinguish
and modelling.
They down
This is more haste than good speed. Each piece should be well smoothed down and united to the mass as the worker goes on. The general masses being accurately arranged, the
modeller
may
detail.
After the
till
first
stage,
it
will
be found an
iS4
advantage that the clay should have " set," and the model become comparatively firm, for had it remained in its soft state, it would have been too yielding to have allowed of any delicate workmanship or careful finish. It is well to keep working over the whole of the model, and not to bring any part into a markedly more advanced state than the rest. In the more advanced stages of the work, the modeller generally rolls up the small pieces of clay which he now uses in the form of little pellets or cylinders, between his hands or his thumb and finger This makes them more convenient of application, and at the same time tempers the clay, and makes it work more smoothly, which is now of importance. As the model grows into shape, it will be found desirable to
turn the
cast
the ribs of the cloth will cut slightly into the clay, and
This
rib
may
be removed, and a
satis-
These, however,
surfaces
eyelids,
;
will
only apply to
softened
pencil
the broader
This
will
enable the
down
first
student to find
many
errors
and shortcomings,
with a moderately
"
hog-hair
(termed a
which otherwise might have passed unnoticed. And here I must say a few words on the subject of light for modelling in. By day it is better to work before a window, the bottom of which is at a higher In sculptors' studios it is level than your stand. thought best to have the windows very high, and looking towards the north. That aspect is preferred, because the light is then more regular than it could be if the direct rays of the sun entered, as they must at
times do from the other three points.
hog-tool"),
in water.
of the
model must be
at
broad
be aimed
wish
to
in artistic modelling.
The amateur
first
is
effort
as to
preserve
it
it.
clay, as
will in
A
;
skylight
and
throws strong shadows, brings all forms boldly out, but it has is for that reason pleasant to work at this disadvantage, that models made under it rarely
look
satisfactory
of this branch of the sculptor's art been allowed to give full instructions
Amateur
Work
Not
form
(see Parts 8
and
9,
Vol.
I.).
when removed
to other
and
less
It will
modeller has only a low ordinary window at which to work, he may improve his light by placing a dark curtain across the lower half of For modelling from the plaster cast, gas or strong it.
forcing lights.
If the
that
it,
it
be well that the first model should be kept. will be worth the plaster which goes to
lamp
since
light
it
is
but that by and by it will serve to indicate modeller the extent of his subsequent progress. In my next article I shall be able to go on to modelling from the life, to the production of portrait
to the
throws
more
clearly-defined
mode
of
shadows.
In
elaborating
smaller
de'ails,
as
in
the
mouth, eyes, etc., a little spoon-shaped When modelling the eyes, chiefly be used.
first to
tool
it is
must
better
make
and
In
shapes must be
HERBERT CLARK.
When
will
his last
work
I am about to have practically tested on several occasions, is based on a knowledge of the number of beats or waves which are heard when any interval other than an octave is played on an " equal tem-
be to give a good and finished surface to the whole. A good modeller can finish his flesh-modelbut this he can only do ling with the thumb alone It will hardly be as the result of long practice. His surface is sure to be possible to the beginner. " lumpy." Instead of broad, regular, even curvatures, As practice it will be full of little lumps and hollows.
;
HE
describe,
and which
perament" instrument.
When
*55
effected
by
for
"fifths"
Starting at
in the bass
pitch a diapason
and nut for adjustment, must now be procured, and the short piece of rod attached thereto, as shown at A in the figure.
Two
12,
now passed through the holes in the short bar, and securely fastened with a touch of the
15,
16,
17,
iS,
19,
20,
and 22
respectively.
sentially of a
The apparatus
consists es-
soldering bit on the underside. The wires are then passed through the loose bit of
rod, taking care to
pendulum capable of being numbers of times during the same period. In its
simplest form, a piece of
keep the flattened side next the " bob," and then through the bit of rod fixed in the top of the board, being
finally
hard wood,
about 46 inches long, 3 inches wide, and I inch thick, is mounted vertically and rigidly in any convenient manner ; in a line down the centre of one of the broad
faces of this piece of wood, a series of
jV
centre of
"bob" shall be exactly mark made at 6 inches from the bottom of board. The screw adjust ment of the "bob" will be found useful
opposite the
here.
or \ inch
holes
:
are a
drilled
is first
quite
We
through, as follows
at about 6 inches
mark
made
of being adjusted to any required length with the greatest ease. If we now mark
the holes in the vertical board as follows,
97,
10,
beginning from the bottom, our apparatus will be complete B, Bi> E&, A,
:
Care must be
taken to
make
G D, F#
We
organ.
If
Cjf,
and
C F.
now
shake
made
least,
without perceptible
one, at
if
must be a good
size
;
fit,
to the tuning of our has only one stop a diapason, or other stop of normal pitch we take "middle C" as our foundation note, and tune it to a fork of the required
it
now proceed
of the
same
two of these
pitch while, if our instrument possess a " principal " stop, we first tune that stop,
;
pieces are to be
made
;
3 inches long,
and
r7T~'."-:
at a quarter of
an inch
:..
The
following
is
supposed to
notes
SIDE ELEVATION.
with
watchmakers
and
MECHANICAL ASSISTANT
hole.
another similar hole parallel to the first is to be drilled at I inch distance from the
succession shown.
first
made
perfect.
The fifths
One
of
is
now
to
be
in
somewhat
a line with
and
be made perfect, and then the black notes slightly fialtetted, while from B to C the black notes, after being made perfect, are to be slightly
from
to
are
first
to
Wl
M
holes drilled in
it.
-9
-&-
*
The
its
half
its
-_*_c _
;
__
g
&m-
s1 g-o-
>&
r~22;
-?-'
i
n
12*
VCJ
sharpened.
indicates
at
away
at
Here our apparatus comes to our aid, and once the exact amount of flattening or
first fifth,
we
press
down
"
C and G
keys,
and
if
with screw
we hear a
distinct
i56
HOW
We
TO REPLACE
succession of waves,
more
as the pipes are farther from or nearer to perfect therefore sharpen or flatten the G pipe accord.
until perfect accord is
secured, no
perceptible.
To
begin, then,
all
consist of a
hammer,
;
and
a touch of the
pendulum
pendulum, we gently flatten the G pipe until waves are produced which keep exact time with the beats of the pendulum. We proceed in this way until all the notes contained between, and inclusive of, the F below and the B above our starting note have been tuned, after which
new sash-line besides these a simple appliance known to mechanics as a "mouse," easily made, and
the
is
With regard
depends on the
wheels over
we proceed
to
which it passes, and, of course, the weight of the sash. For ordinary sashes the size known as No. 5 will be found most useful, for small sashes, Nos. 3 or 4,
whilst for very large sashes, or those glazed with plate
glass,
If this part octaves from the "bearings" thus laid. of the work the " laying of the bearings "is carefully
is
sure to please,
and
it
will
be
We
found that much time is saved by the use of the simple apparatus above described, since no step of the work need be gone over a second time. It will be found convenient as we proceed in "laying the bearings " to tune the C in the treble clef, and the C, CS, D, Efe, E,
construction.
usually fitted in
is
modern houses.
The
pulley style, A,
that in
line
which the pulleys or wheels over which the passes, are fitted, and the pocket piece (described
The
front bead, E,
is
generally called
F,
and G8
in the
bass
by so octaves, and have a good opportunity of testing the soundness of our work by playing a few "trial chords." In conclusion, permit me to add that if any diffioctaves, for
culty
is
as
The
parting bead,
acts as a
parting
shall be
most happy
in "
to
may be needed,
Ama-
remove the
left
front bead, E,
it
HOW
about the middle, and forcing it outwards, springing the ends from the top and bottom mitres (if properly put together there should be no nails in it within a
foot of either
end
lift
to
on a chair as
far
HIS
operation,
is
convenient.
Then take
;
the
more than many amateurs would attempt without some previous direction, whilst to others any explanation of a work that is to them exceedingly easy may seem altogether superfluous and uncalled for. There are probably very few persons but who are aware of the annoyance and inconvenience of a broken sash-line, although this annoyance mostly falls upon
the housekeeper, or domestic portion of a family,
same manner
site in
to,
requi-
shown and
ex-
plained in Fig.
This is simply a loose piece cut in the pulley style admit the weights, and obtain access to them. It is not fixed or nailed in any way, but simply held in
to
ruffled
little
For such as are unacquainted with the means to be employed for carrying out the above operation, a few remarks in explanation thereof will not be unwelcome,
especially to those who, living in country places, are
by the parting bead, F, passing through the shown in sketch. By inserting the point of the screw-driver or bradawl at the bottom joint, B, and pressing downwards, it ought to fall out readily if not, more force must be applied. Having removed this, the weight will be visible; having fallen to the bottom of the frame, take it out and remove the broken piece of cord from the hole,
position
groove, as
SASH-LINE.
157
double knot which should be well hammered into the space intended for it in the weight, to prevent its catching in passing up and down the frame. Of course,
the
mouse would be
first
its
It is
usually
Next replace
the
it
made by doubling up
piece
strip
a small
into
weight
in
pocket,
of sheet
lead
is
on the
one end of
this
will stick
then
draw
it
flattened
drilled in
up
frame as
off
far as
will go,
and cut
the cord about a foot or eighteen inches from the sill, or bottom of the frame. While in this position the bradawl may
Fin.
long is
to enable
it
I.
A, Pulley Style B, Front or Face Lining C, Back Lining D, Outside Lining E, Front Bead; F, Parting Bead G, Part'ng
;
;
Slip.
FIG. 3.
FIG. 2.
MOUSE.
FiG.
DIAGRAM
SHOWING POCKET-PIECE.
we now pass
it,
allowing
drop inside the frame and down to the pocket, where it can be withdrawn. The end of the new sash cord, being tied to the other end of the string, is easily drawn through the pulley and down through the pocket. Then take the weight and pass the end of the new cord down through the hole in the top, and tie a
to
be driven through the cord near the top, and into the pulley style to hold the weight in the same place
leaving the hands at liberty to
fix
Before this
is
ing-bead, driving the latter tightly into its groove which should hold it firmly without any nails. Now lift up the sash to a convenient position, and having
158
removed the broken pieces of cord from the groove in it, place the new cord in, and securely nail it with two or three clout nails, which should not be too long or they will pass through the wood, and probably fracture
the glass
;
WOOD
IN
By JOSEPU COWAN.
inch clouts
Care
line
Ill,
stuff is
to a top sash, that the top nail is not driven too high
for instance,
if
the pulley
the frame,
the
top nail
7
securing
sash
from the top of the sash. Now remove the bradawl, and place the sash in its proper position in the frame, running it up and
or 8
should be
inches
down a few
to
all is right,
then replace
manner If for drawer-bottoms, panels, and such-like, prepare your work to size, and trim all faulty parts away make up to size required, and number the joints (with chalk), pile them, crossing each set; this will prevent confusion, and facilitate the work. The amateur is supposed to know the use of a shooting-board, and how to put a
;
work easily, but not too freely so as to rattle; and if any nails are required, they should be driven at least a
trying-plane in order, which ought to be sharp for "jointing." Beginning with No. 1, shoot the piece on
the
number up
from the ends, to allow of easy removal at a future occasion. A better plan, and one that ought to be more generally followed, is to secure these beads by means of screws. This concludes the whole process, and although
foot or eighteen inches
right,
number down.
If
have a "joint" ready for gluing; but, to make sure, place them edge to edge, to see if the "joint" is a shade hollow, which causes a slight "cringing" at
the ends.
Be
sure of your
first
joint,
then
make
taking
many words
to explain,
it
may be
carried out by
It is
any amateur in half-an-hour, or less. Should the top sash only require anew line, proceed as in the other, but as the bottom sash comes first this must be put out of the way somehow. The best plan to do this is to run it up to the top of the frame, then swing it inwards into the room, the lines acting as hinges, and fix it up by a prop from the bottom rail, as shown in Fig. 4. Any piece of wood, or even a broom handle, will effect this but as a slip would un;
the
numbeis
in
are,
down, not be
the
when shcoting one up, the other same "joint," otherwise the work will
flat.
level
on the
Go
before gluing.
In gluing-up thin
the "joints"
them. Do not grip the piece bodily in the bench-stop, but at one end, in a fixed hand-screw, the glue being modeare not to be warmed, as the
fire will twist
rately thin
leaning
aslant
it
will
be safer
to cut
Now
wood with a
risk.
run any
The
sash-line
can
any
iron-
till it feels as though all the glue was rubbed out of it the closer the better the "joint. While rubbing, keep your fingers as low as possible, to prevent toppling over, which must not be allowed
upwards
at the finish.
If the toppling
and
quality.
The
best
again, and,
if
is made of flax plaited. Amateurs requiring sash-cord for repairs should get Austin's " Patent
brush
try to
in the
make
gluing a success, as
it is
always
all
and
6,
The most useful sizes are Nos. 4, which are sold respectively at yd. 9d., and
t
the best.
When
foregoing
J inch stuff
is
is
being manipulated,
gluing
the
applicable up to the
will require
process.
In some very old frames the pocket-pieces are sometimes found cut in the front lining instead of in the pulley style. This will easily be discernible, and
will
resting on slanting
when
In
the
bottom sash only requires a new line, necessary to remove the parting bead at
will not
be
board, glue (one edge only), and rub as before. It must rest five minutes before removal to glue another.
I
all.
many
will
now
tell
amateurs how
best, cheapest,
is
to
make a "glue-
new
brush" that
of the pot.
tongued into the linings as shown, but should be so found in good work and where this is the case, the tongue is generally cut off the pocket-piece to allow
;
The
and
effectual
glue-biush then
made from a
rattan cane.
its
withdrawal.
in boiling water,
hammer
the
i59
well
If
made in
every purpose except large veneers, which will require a paint-brush, according to the size of the work. In order to make tongued joints in above-mentioned thicknesses, shoot the joints as above, then
groove-and-tongue with a pair of piecing-planes, to match the thickness of the stuff, always keeping the fence of the plane to the face, or numbered side, of the work. Piecing or grooving-planes are liable to
lean or work off to the right
to exercise pressure to the
;
is
left.
Examine each
joint,
work,
to see
if it
is
any thickness of
;
stuff,
have found that the colours most brown, light crimson, dark crimson, maroon, and black, of which black where allowable is infinitely to be preferred, as the pure white of horse-chestnut stands out from it as if it were ivory. Thirdly, having accepted horse-chestnut, say, as the wood to be worked, we must consider what thickness we should use. It should not be greater than i inch. Personally, I prefer to cut it out from T3S inch, and use i inch yellow pine for backing, as will be afterwards described. Perhaps I might add that should any difficulty be experienced in obtaining horse-chestnut of suitable dimensions, Messrs. Booth Bros., of Dublin, can supply any quantity required on most moderate
I
be consulted.
be put together dry or glued when for gluing, the tongue must be slack to allow for swelling when the hot glue is put on. This is done in two ways close
:
method of cutting out the frame. should be cut from a single piece of wood, the
if
little,
or
have two irons for the grooving-plane one for dry, and the other for glued joints then your joints in both cases are correct. To a new beginner these
;
of
The
joints will
be a
little
troublesome
frame may also be cut in four parts, joined at the mitres with a little glue, and needle points, used as dowels, the lines of juncture being hidden by overlays, cut out
when
The
on
this
Veneers," and
a close.
(
To
be continued?)
and glued or screwed on (from the back). This, howbe but a dernier ressort,\A\vs\ the amateur's saw will not take in the work in one piece. Some little care will be required in the actual cutting to prevent the unsupported scrolls at the sides from being broken, especially when working in thin wood. One way of overcoming this difficulty and one that I have successfully practised is, to cut two frames at the same time, the top one being, say, of whitewood and the lower of walnut, the grains of each running in a
ever, should
GEABAM.
-
gether by
means of needle
HE fretwork
Fig. 1, was designed to mount the "Art Journal" engravings and other pictures of the same size, and as some
Another plan advised in a book on fretwork I have lately seen but which I cannot recommend is to paste thick brown paper, or thin cardboard, underneath; in our case I believe it would be just as difficult to remove
my
experience
them
out
and putting
it
together
one,
I
to those
who
intend to
make
I
may
description of the
method
most favour.
be seen that a broken line is drawn round the solid part of the frame about 1 inch from the inside edge. This line marks
without
it.
it
will
In the
first
etc.
Several plans
depends upon the paper of the wall upon which it is intended to hang the frame when completed. American walnut, either polished or simply oiled, makes a handsome frame, suited to most papers; vulcanite also has generally a pleasing effect, but I incline rather to whitewood generally, and to horsechestnut in particular, as the most effective of all. To further improve the appearance, the frame should be backed with velvet. Here, secondly, the surroundings and the taste of the fret-cutter may well
A good deal
can be adopted for this, two of which I may mention When the frame is cut out in thick wood, it is better to glue a slip of wood to the back of the frame all round so as to form a rebate but with thin wood, a A separate totally different plan should be followed. frame should be put together of in. timber, it may be in one piece, but would be stronger if mitred or put together with mortise and tenon. Its outside measurement should be 2 feet by 1 foot 9 inches, with an aperture 12J inches by 9! inches. Supposing it done, as
;
i6o
FIG.
BY
J.
GRAHAM.
ONE-THIRD
SIZE.
the mathematicians say, round off the outside edges somewhat, very slightly will do, only just sufficient to prevent the velvet, which must be glued to it, from being cut. Tack down the velvet to the back, screw
and glue
and picture may be dropped backing added, and the whole covered with brown paper, well pasted down, to excool, the glass
home
Our frame
done,
it
is
now
finished
if
carefully
frame in turn to the velvet the addition of a few screws rut in from the back is desirable. When all is firm,
will,
trust,
be found
fitted to
161
FIG.
THREE-FOURTHS
preferred,
SIZE.
from a design by " Proaccompaniment to the preceding design by Mr. Graham. The incised veining of the leaves gives expression to the work. A little more Cutting with a carving chisel would give individuality
(Fig. 2),
to the leaves,
if
and
effect
quasi separation
As
so, for
or reduced
with
little
size.
62
MARK
WICKS.
(For Illustrations,
I
divisions in a
space of
frn
and four
and
III, SOUND-BOARD
four divisions in 3^ inches, then seven spaces and six divisions in 5J inches. Now mark a bar 1 inch thick,
in 4
E now commence
casual
glance
the sheet
of details
it
six
fifteen
spaces
and fourteen
5J inches
is
accompanying this article, a rather formidable undertaking, but it will not be found to present any great difficulties or
to
divisions
j\ inches.
The remaining
occupied by four spaces and four divisions, these really being for the first four notes of the tenor octave,
occupy a very long time. The chief requisites are good materials, the ability to plane a board true, and the exercise of a little care and patience. The sound-board of an organ the term is a misnomer, for it is in no sense of the word a sound-board is merely a flat board, termed the " table," which is divided by wooden partitions, on the underside, into as many channels as there are keys in the compass of the instrument. The wind is admitted into these channels by means of valves, called pallets, from a box underneath, termed the wind-chest. On the top
at this
for
the
the
sound-board,
the
divisions,
to
Having marked out all these lines careall the bars and the cheeks in order prevent any mistakes being made hereafter. We may now proceed to mark out the sliders and
score over
bearers.
The two outside bearers are each iA inch wide (measuring from the outside edges of the cheeks) and
these
flat slips
of
wood
may be drawn
ning between other flat and fixed slips, termed bearers over these are thick boards, termed the upper boards.
sliders,
board.
from end to end of the soundThen, commencing from the back of the
slider,
and draw
the. line
and
allowing
it
to run
3j-
if the slides are open wind passes from the wind-chest into the channels and from thence into the pipes. When the sliders are closed no wind can pass into the pipes.
board.
3 inches
Now mark
wide
for the
wide, and a slider 3 inches wide for the stopt diapason. Draw another bearer 2 inches wide, then a slider 3
flute, the lower line of which you can carry right through the bass also. Now set off a bearer 3 inch wide and a slider 2\ inch wide for the flageolet, continuing these lines also through the bass, and thus, with the outside bearer already drawn, completing the width of the sound-board.
The
first
thing necessaty
is
to
make a drawing
all
your work.
long,
full
and
size,
So prepare a bcVd of i inch pine, 6 feet more wide, and on it set out, to the plan shown in Fig. I, on the sheet of
2 feet or
in Specifica-
details.
tion
in
On
now
The
wide, so
at
long by 2 feet
mark
these lines
inch thick.
and then draw another show the thickness of the the front and back cheeks are Now draw the two thick bars
first,
bearer at back, a slider 4^ inches wide for a stop termed the " Violoncello," which will shortly be described,
in, to
diapason-bass
55-
and a
slider 4A
wide
dividing the treble from the bass, the centre of these divisions being 21 i inches from the bass end. These
and
treble.
bars
may be about an
show the
positions of
may
The
The bass portion is now to be divided into twelve channels, and eleven partitions, or bars, in the following manner The first two channels and one
:
'
With
division occupy 3 inches, the next three channels and four divisions take 6 inches, the next three channels
stand over
and three
divisions.
divisions take 5 inches, the remaining 4A inches being divided into four channels and three
become more crowded, and it may become necessary, to groove some of them off a few inches, so that they
The channels
in the bass
may
be slightly
may have
speaking room.
This
is
~~ ,,j.m,.
.,,
PRESEN
RT
XV.
OF
iiiffss wa&iL
mimrMTm
163
wood
all
It is therefore
pipes,
them
note,
and you
then see where every pipe will It will only occupy a few hours,
in
will
you adopt the plan of planting off the largest you will require to do so by conducting tubes, and as I have made the soundas shown in Fig. 10 board of such a size as to obviate as far as possible the necessity for grooving, you will require little, if any, for the wood pipes, and none at all for the paper
If
:
paper you have to do'is to strike a circle with the compasses, the same diameter as the outside measure
will
save afterwards.
To
ones.
pipes
all
Commence
In the case
how
to place
them.
of
will
size
have
to cut out a
Having completed the drawing-board, hang it up your workshop, so as to be convenient for reference whenever you may require k. We now proceed to the actual construction of the sound-board, of which the setting-out of the drawing board will have already given you a pretty good idea. First prepare a board of 5-inch Honduras mahogany,
in
5 feet
it, and mark name of the note in the square thus drawn. We now arrive at the reasons for placing some of
long and
;
measuresides
The
object
is to
down
the height
of the organ.
The
usual
method
is
to transfer
each
this.
plan
,
I'
and you are unable to get a thoroughly good piece of mahogany, straight grained, free from knots, and weil seasoned, use yellow pine of the best quality for though mahogany is the best, good pine is better than bad mahogany. Now set off on a rod all the bars and spaces
plane
If
it
ment
ends.
perfectly true,
'
open to several objections, viz., it is the tenor octave that is the most crowded and the most difficult to deal with, not the bass ; transferring the bass pipes only does not keep down the height, as the open diapason and the keraulophon both run to
usual plan
The
4
to
It also
becomes necessary
in
made
so that
one portion
.
treble, thus
My
at the bass end, and the other at the making a very awkward piece of work. method avoids all these difficulties, and by transis
ferring the
first
marked on the drawing-board and transfer them to the table, and square them right across the board with a T square, scoring all the divisions as shown in the drawing-board, and from another rod mark the positions of the sliders and bearers. Prepare the bars and divisions from perfectly sound well seasoned yellow pine, making them of the requisite thickness, and as long as the table is wide, that is, all be exactly the 1 foot 10 inches, and they must same depth, viz., not less than 3 inches. If you cut them from a board 1 1 inches wide, divide it into three, and after sawing, plane them all up to the
the one that happens to be the narrowest. Should there be the least knot or shake in any of these bars, throw it aside and prepare another one for it must be borne in mind that if the wind is allowed to pass from one channel to another it will probably be necessary to pull the sound-board to pieces in
size of
;
each stop
off the
off
board
ing length.
only 3 feet 4 inches (approximate) speakYou also obviate all crowding of the
pipes and
will not
through the
to
to
may
accommodate
all
the pipes,
and
open and close. The Flageolet slider runs right through and the Flute can be made to draw in two parts or as If it is intended to adopt the latter '.e slide. plan, which will save a stop knob and connections, the slider can still be made in two portions and dovetailed together over the thick bars, as
It is
The pieces thrown aside be wasted, as they can be cut up to form the fillings-in hereafter described, and the knots and bad places need then be the only parts absolutely rejectedWhen you have prepared all the partitions, etc., take the two ii-inch bars forming the ends, and having made sure that the edges are planed perfectly level and square, screw them on to the top of the table at each end (not on to the side which you have marked out, which is the underside), the screws being inserted
order to remedy the defect.
shown
in Fig.
1.
through the centre line of the bearers, not through the Then screw on over their proper positions sliders.
the
thick bars dividing the bass from the treble, and also the thick bar which comes in the centre of the treble portion. These bars are only fixed here
shown
a;
easirjj
to draw from the bass end, but could just be'drawn from the treble by cutting a little
"*
is
very important
again,
should be done.
to
and go
out
all
you may plane up both edges of the sound-board perfectly true, and place the cheeks in position so that their top edges are flush with the top of the table, and the bottom edges flush with the edges of the divisions. With a stock and bit drill two holes through the cheeks
into the ends of each of the thick bars, to receive a
grooving plane or a
at
Take
out the intervening wood, smooth the bottom of the grooves with the tool called an " old woman's tooth,"
Then
and you
will
Take
same
as
you
screwed on
to
to the top,
come on
When
screw them on to the top again. and divisions so that they just
in,
Now
fit
and
in their
nicely
then
and be sure that they all bed flat down into their Give every division a coat of very thin hot glue on both sides to stop all the pores, and set them up to dry. When dry you may proceed to glue them into their respective grooves, working them backwards and forwards a little to secure a good joint. I need hardly say that both the grooves and the edges of the bars should be glued. For all the work connected with the organ use only the best French or Russian Thick blackglue, which is of a very light colour.
places.
viz.,
and 4^ inches deep, and then plane up the back of the wind-chest, or wind-bar, as it is termed,
making
it
4 feet
10.}
from the bellows, and near each end cut a similar hole,
5
trunks,
is
or these holes
you intend having a separate pedal organ may be made one in each end of the
that all the glueing
is
work
intended to
last.
The
wind-chest.
Assuming
you
thoroughly dry,
proper glue
may now
plane
down
It
make
it
become
all
hold
well.
After
allowed to get dry, you can take off the top pieces and
glue them into their proper groove
lot of
;
then cut up a
on the ends of the wind-chest so that they come flush with the outside ends of the sound-board, thus leaving half-an inch of the thick end bars on the inside to allow the pallets to bed on them. Tack some thin boards all over the under surface to protect it from injury during our subsequent operations, and then turn
as
up each end of the channels, and 4. At a distance of 7i inches from the front edge of the table fill in a
fill
shown
at
B in Figs.
2, 3,
soundboard over so that the top is uppermost. Take the smoothing plane and plane down the table
the
till it is as true and level as the surface of a mirror, and then with your rod set out on it the positions of Plane up some inch the sliders and bearers. mahogany of superfine quality and possessing the
these
may be about 4 inches long. Remember you are working on the underside of the board, and that,
therefore,
if
is
on your
left
hand, the
it
front of the
board
is
several sliders
perfectly true.
fillings-in are
shown
G on the diagrams.
and bearers, and shoot all the edges Screw the bearers down in their places
While
pine
1
drying plane up two pieces of sound inch thick, and the total depth of the channels
this is
-
with thin inch screws, sinking the heads of the screws below the surface, but do not place these screws
including the thickness of the table, which will make them about 3 | in. or 4 in. wide, and as long as the
These pieces are for the front and back cheeks, and when glued on as I shall describe, will make the
table.
sound-board 2 ft. wide. The glueing of the fillings-in should be allowed at least two days to dry, and then
between the bearers, then plane up some good 1 inch pine for the upper boards, of which you will require three for the treble side, the one over the flageolet side may run right through the bass, and
tightly
165
to
come
to the centres of
be cut up
shown
and
Plane up some good f inch or A inch pine for therack boards, making them exactly the same sizes as
the respective upper boards. To avoid confusion I have only shown the rack boards at the back in Fig. 10, but it will be understood that they cover the whole top of the sound- board. Lay these flat on the upper boards and screw them tightly down on to the table, the screws passing through the bearers and table into the several thick bars which are made for that very
\ the diameter, and the top of the pipes to be covered with a cap the same as in the Stopt Diapason. The size of the holes through the feet, and of the holes to
will
be the same as
;
and the
lower holes to be enlarged as described for the other bass stops. When all the holes have been bored for the
pipes,
do those
purpose.
Now mark
line
draw
lines
them
showing the two rows of pipes over each slider, and where these lines intersect the cross lines will be the centre of each hole for the pipes to stand in. With
centre bits of the requisite size bore the holes right
holes
let
down
may
be
re-
may be.
the holes
through
all
amateurs bore a
Most way to
The
all
manage
and
is
from one and then go round to the other side them, and you will thus neutralize this tento bore the holes partly through
sizes of the holes are of course regulated
The
may
fit
in perfectly airtight.
sliders,
dency.
The
Take
if
off the
upper boards,
so.
and they will be about i-inch for CC, f-inch for Tenor C, and tV-inch for top G in the Stopt Diapason. Open Diapason the same size for the same notes. The Flute will be about T-inch for CC, ?-inch for Tenor C, and -jV'nch for top G. Keraulophon the same as the Flute for the same notes. Flageolet CC, TVinch, Tenor C, 3-inch, top
sizes of the pipe feet,
,
by the
is
quite true
not,
make
it
Now
look at Fig.
6,
and you
will
shown
as existing between
all
the holes.
These are
G, ;-inch.
be
The six lowest notes of the largest pipes should made by boring two holes side by side, and
then taking out the intervening wood, thus forming one oblong hole, as shown on the plan in Fig. 1. A piece of J-inch mahogany is then glued over each of these holes on the top of the upper board, and a hole is bored through it to receive the foot of the pipe, or for
the conveyance tube, as the case
It will
may
be.
be noticed that I have placed an extra slider at the back of the bass in continuation of the Open Diapason. This space being there you may, if you
please, place a stop of twelve pipes
between the sliders and the upper boards, which would otherwise cause a cyphering of the pipes. You may adopt either or all of these methods, but your first proceeding will be the same for each, viz., to mark on the ends of the table and upper boards the position of each slider, draw the lines along the underside of the upper board, and then make a little channel -^ inch wide, and the same depth along each side, where the edges of the sliders would come, and between every hole run channels crosswise into the long ones. This grooving may be done with a V tool, All waste or a chisel, or even with a red-hot wire. wind will be carried off by these little channels, and
sliders, or
upon
it,
as
it
will
conducted
to the
The
give you
will
be very
especially
I
the Violoncello,
recommend
shown
same thing must be done on the table, under every slider. Now take the block of wood with the cork on it, mentioned in Part XII., and stretch a piece of fine
glass paper over the cork, then carefully rub
like
down
the
It is
on
the left-hand side of Fig. 10, and you will observe that there is a diagonal line passing from the level of the top edge of the bottom lip to the outside of the ears
;
burrs raised in making the channels on the table and Fix the sliders the underside of the upper bar boards.
in the proper places by means of a small each end, punching the head of the brad below the surface, and then plane down the slides end bearers Take them off again carefully, and perfectly level.
and bearers
brad
at
a piece of thin wood, which just fits in between the ears, and is glued in that position. Make these twelve pipes exactly the same size as the Tenor
this represents
slot in
each
slider,
as
66
be drawn out each. Drive a stout wire pin into the end bars through each slot level with the top of the sliders, and that will prevent them being drawn any further, but they may be lifted off when required. A piece of thin mahogany, cross-way of the grain, should now be glued on the under side of each slider where it is to draw, and a square or round hole made through to receive the ends of the levers, which are shown in Fig. 10, but will be described in a subsequent chapter. Give the sliders, the top of the table under them, and the underside of the upper boards over them, a good
dressing with the very best blacklead, to
sliders
movement of them. The bass may an inch, and the treble sliders J inch
bored through at each end into the channels just same as though a pipe stood at each end of the groove. It will thus be understood that, although there are no bass pipes in the swell, the sound-board
is
the
is
made
with
fifty-six
each end of the grooves a leather valve is placed, which opens upwards into the groove. These valves
are
made by
sheep-skin together, with the soft side outwards, allowing a single thickness only to form the hinge. the top of the groove with thin
Cover
usual
mahogany
it
in the
make
the
does
work smoothly. Cut a strip of thick cartridge paper and glue it smoothly on the top of each bearer, and that will allow just sufficient play for the sliders. If there is any grooving off of the pipes, that should be the next operation. Suppose you find there
is
Now
not
room
as near to
it
as you conveni-
and cut a deep groove in the upper board from the hole to where the pipe stands the grooves should be at least an inch wide and made quite
;
smooth.
\ inch
The
mahogany should be glued over the groove to close it in, and a hole made in
foot of the pipe,
for the
where
it
is
intended that
should
on pressing a key in the bass of the swell organ, the little valve flies open and the air is admitted into the groove and passes out through the pipe. The little valve at the other end keeps closed, and thus prevents the wind passing down into the channel of the great and causing all the pipes to sound for which stops might be drawn. The reverse would be the case on pressing a key on the great organ. Where grooves cannot be used, tubes are convenient for conveying wind to pipes when they are planted off the sound-board, whether at the sides, back, or front of the organ. These tubes are generally made of metal, and are costly but the amateur, profiting by his experience in making paper pipes, can
;
By this method the wind can be conveyed to stand. any portion of the sound-board where it may be desired to place the pipes the only rules to be observed are that the grooves should be large enough to convey plenty of wind, and that there should be no sharp turns, but if the groove is deflected from the straight line, it should be by a curve. Another kind of grooving is shown in Fig. 9, and is termed a "borrowing groove." This would be required in the small two-manual organ, mentioned at the bottom of page 21 in Chapter I., as the compass of the swell organ only extends down to Tenor C, and the bass of the great organ has to do duty for both the great and the swell. This is a proceeding which has nothing
;
makes these tubes in just the same way, painting them inside and out to preserve them. There should be no sharp angles, but all turns must have a double joint, as shown in Fig. 10, where one pipe is shown at a higher level, and the other at a lower level than the sound-board. The wind is conveyed to all speaking fronts in this way. The conveyance tubes should
always be as large as possible, never less than 1 inch internal diameter. The pipes can be stood on a board
and the tubes can enter the board at any convenient The rack pillars should be 4 or 5 inches long part. in the bass, and about 3 inches for the treble, and may be made either round or square, the top a^d bottom
portions should
fit
to
recommend
it,
strictly
musical
(which
may be made
any convenient
position),
and
standpoint, as
it
much
the
weaker
to save
is
expense and to keep down the height of The Stopt Diapason slider should placed at the back of the great sound-board, and upper board should extend over it and also over
instrument.
slider in the swell organ, as is
line in Fig. 3.
be
the
any time that may be required. Having completed the upper portion of the soundboard, turn it over again and take off the thin boards which were bradded on to protect the under side. Shake and blow out all the chips and dust from the
channels, and after seeing that the surface
stretch,
is
the
quite
it
to
groove is then made in the upper board, connecting each bass channel in the swell with
it
down over
it
well to ensure
167
the guide pin,
When
to
of each pallet.
This
is
and
it
prevents
it
to
The pallets must now be made by jointing up a board of sound yellow pine 4 feet 10 inches long and rather over 8 inches wide, the grain running across the board plane it perfectly true on one side, and on
;
move easily downwards. The guide pins may project a little more than an inch from the channel bars. In many organs a guide pin is put on each side of the pallet, but it is obvious that, whilst it does no more than the front pin in preventing lateral movement, it
gives two chances of
it
so that
it is
f inch thick at
one
the
Lay
it
over the
mark
the pallet sticking, through dampness, or from the pins getting bent. Cut strips of leather 4 or 5 inches long, and glue one over the hinge of each pallet, and carry it right up
it
up
We
now
viz.,
When jointing
comes over a
come
tightly
to
bar and not over a channel, and before sawing it, run a rebate | inch wide all along the front edge, so as to
leave the thin piece on the level side.
end,
whether or not a
of
down over
After separattail
shown
in the sketches.
so, that in
its
may
myself prefer
absence
and make a
saw, to a depth of about | of inch, and S. At J inch from the front bore a small hole
right through the pallet,
side,
to its presence.
The
is
made
of No. 18 or
shown
in the sketch,
and enlarge
on the upper
board about
wedge in between the two ends of and then trim it off nice and level with the top of the pallet. The pallets, when finished, should be wide enough to lay at least ~ inch
gently drive a glued
it
an equilateral triangle with the wires, insert a peg of hard wood about % inch in diameter. Now take a
piece of spring wire, place
it
against the
peg,
first
wire peg,
it
then carry
it
up
to the
wood
and
twist
twice
a piece of strong, but very common, calico that has been washed, and glue
the pallets
Now get
by
on
to
it
side
Cut them apart when and then glue them on to a strip of stout felt in just the same way, but not allowing any felt to project at the tail. Cut apart again, and then glue them on
project 3 inches at the
dry,
tail
end.
round and continue the wire down to the next wire peg, and bend it against it. Cut it off with the nippers at this point and slip the spring off, and make both the arms of it curve a little inwards, and it is finished.
Make
all
all
be
alike.
Now make
slip of
wood
rather longer
to a piece of the best sheepskin leather, allowing 3 same as with the calico,
which should be neatly glued down against the end felt and over the leather. Some use two thickif
than the length of the interior of the wind-chest, 3 inches wide and about inch thick, on the back edge of this glue a slip of j inch mahogany ii inch wide, and immediately under the centre line of each of the
pallets
cut % inch
deep in
this cuts,
this
saw
from the
end as shown in Fig. 7. The grain surface of the leather must be well roughened with gliss paper, or
tail
and
The
When
spring rail
or buttons.
and then sprinkle some whitpaper, and gently rub the soft
it
may now be fastened in its place by screws The thumping rail is made of a slip of
The pallets may now be glued in it. on the channel bars. The tail or hinge piece is glued, and the glue allowed to touch about a quarter of an inch of the end of the pallet, and it is then rubbed down on the filling-in piece at the back
worked
into
their places
wood i inch thick, and ij inch deep- It is nearly as long as the sound-board, and is let into a groove in each end of the wind-chest, at about one inch below the
fronts of the pallets, so that
it
pulled
inch.
should be covered
with leather or cloth on the top edge, and should be fastened in position by a button or screw, so as to be
easily taken out,
if
Be
and then give each pallet a tap with a hammer to bed it on the channel bar so as to make it
fit
Now dovetail
ends, so as to
quite air-tight.
Now
down
'
tightly
on
saw cut
in the front
do not glue
it
joint of it, and screw it edges of the channel bars, but In order to make it air-tight, to them. to the
make a good
[68 you
AND
USE.
of them.
The
back.
The
holes for
the
Now
cut 56
some tinned iron wire (No. 19 gauge) and pieces, and make a neat little hook at one end
get
pliers,
wind-trunks must be
made
in the
so
that it will hook on to the whipcord loop of the pallet and hang down rather more than an inch below the underside of the bottom board of the wind-chest. This bottom board is merely a piece of \ inch pine, the size of the wind-chest, to which it should be Immediately under tightly screwed when in position. each of the loops bore a hole in the bottom board
fully \ inch in diameter, for the pull
chest. The general instructions for making the single manual will apply to the 2-manual. For a small organ, containing from 1 to not more than 4 stops, a very compact arrangement is to make the sound-board double as shown in Fig. 5. The
down
wires to
pass through.
brass
5 feet
Now
small hole in
long and \\ inch wide, and diill a very it over the centre of each of the holes in
portion has only each stop, and the pipes will thus stand in a single row over each bass slider. The divisions should be made double in the bass sound-board, in order that the channels may not be too large, about i\ inch being wide enough for the
to
1
pipes
2
down
Tenor C.
1
The back
2 bass pipes in
fine
make them
just large
channel, and \ inch for the smallest. The width of the slider for the Flute bass and also the width of the bass portion of the sound-board may be
largest
enough for the pull-down wires to pass through without any wind escaping round them. This p'ate of brass is now fastened down on to the bottom of the windchest by a fillet of wood being screwed on each side of it, as shown at J, in Figs. 2 and 3. Then unhook all the pull-downs, and make a little loop at the bottom end where it hangs below the brass plate.
It
5,
and
it
2 or 3 inches of
The
may be from
longer
if
3 feet 3
like,
inches to
you
as the
the
now
only remains to
make the
The
which is merely a \ board of pine or mahoSee that the front edges of the wind-chest are quite level all round with the front cheek of the sound-board, and then glue a strip of soft leather all round where the front will come on. Screw the front on with long, thin round-headed screws, with brass washers or shields, to prevent the heads drawing into the wood, and be sure that no air escapes round the
chest,
gany.
open at the back and the treble ones at the front, and the wind-chest will extend under the two soundboards in exactly the same way as is shown in the section of the 2-manual in Fig. 3. The action will be described in due course. For a i-stop organ, the treble and bass sound-boards should be each about
being
will
joints.
width (clear length of channels), the channels The dimensions already given for widths of bearers and sliders, depths of channels, etc.,
5 in. in
2 in. deep.
have described for making the I adopt myself and recommend, but some builders merely glue the edges of the bars on to the table without grooving them in. This plan, however, is not so strong, and increases the danger of leakage from one channel to another, especially in sound-boards of amateur construction, and
The method
is
sound-board,
the one
To be continued )
=-*-=
C^
as
it
it
much
Another method is first, and then groove the bars into the This, however, slides, putting the table on last. requires extreme accuracy in planing, but if a good board cannot be procured, the table is formed by glueing slips of \ inch pine in between each channel bar, and thus forming a solid top. The 2-manual sound-board may be made in two distinct boards, and then glued together, or may be made all in one, and divided by filling in pieces, as shown in Fig. 3. One wind-chest will supply both sound-boards, as it extends under the whole surface
ends together
VELOCIPEDES
THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND USE.
By
A.
STEPHENSON.
our
last
An
I,
examination of the
diagram, Fig.
screwing.
will
show how
to find
In Fig.
it is
A B
is first
drawn, on
Now
the
169
done bypassing a straight wire through the two opposite spoke holes, right across the centre of the wheel,
FIG
7.
Now taking the hub to be 6 inches in length, measuring from centre to centre of the spoke holes in both flanges, half this distance (3 inches) is set off from c
to E,
on the horizontal
line
BEARINGS
FOR
FIG.
FIG.
FIG. 6.
I.
DIAGRAM
SHOWING HOW TO
BEARING OF MAIN
to
AXLE ON RIGHT.
and marking the wire at both ends flush with the bottom of the hollow in the rim or, in other words, just where the head of the spokes will be. Assuming the marked wire to measure 47 ins., half this length, 23J ins., is laid off from c towards D on the vertical line, say to G, where a section of the rim is shown in Fig. 1.
;
be 4 inches
to F.
E, half that
to F gives the length of the spoke less 5 inch. This additional inch passes through the rim of the flange and into the nut beneath, half an inch of the spoke being screwed for line
drawn from G
170
that purpose.
Then
some preparation
;
to
make
it
should be seared or
as a
much stronger job. The hub, rim, and spokes being now
that
scorched on the surface with a hot iron, on the side To do this scorching I is embedded in the rim.
small instrument,
is
contrived an instrument which serves two purposes. It is a piece of cast iron having an iron handle, and
instrument
as
is
shown
at Fig.
2, full
formed as shown
semicircle
1
in Fig. 4,
it is
in the
is
The groove,
;
or hollow,
a
fit
be bought
length to
Now,
am
left
entirely to
my own
am
I use two of these heaters, being used the other is being heated. To scorch the rubber it is moved along the hollow in the heater rather smartly, so as not to burn
it.
is
characsticky
despair of success.
teristic
new
rubbers,
proceeded then with the building of my wheels Placing the rim on the bench with three as follows or four blocks of wood some 3 inches thick under
I
:
feel
and
when
of the consistency of
it,
in the
centre,
rim
all
nuts
id inch,
and
is
that
up
to the
one side the wheel being entered in this way, the wheel is turned over, and the other side treated in the same manner.
behind the flange rim.
All the spokes on
the rubber
Now
come
into
Now
the spoke-adjuster
comes
into
requisition.
It
may
be readily
jet,
understand the rims are often heated with a gas in with the hand. I found
be tedious, and, besides, a nasty job
for the
I
instrument
turned to almost any degree of tightness. With this all the spokes may be screwed till they
this
made
wood
8 inches long,
hollowed
in its length
in Fig. 3.
The narrowed
final
upon the hub, and the shoulIn the ders comes against the edge of the flange.
adjustment of the spokes, this rod is placed close mark made on it at the edge of
made a
semicircular hollow to
fit
Stand-
put an iron
are screwed up to
rim,
shown in Fig. 3. If all the spokes show this mark at the edge of the
;
loaded the other with a 281b. weight, thus pressing the then applying the heaters
;
and that on both sides of the wheel, then the may be taken as correctly trained and the hub will be found to project equally on either side the rim. It is to be observed that while the spokes must be tight, and all of them equally so, they must not be too tight, for it is quite possible to make them so tight as
wheel
to buckle or twist the wheel in figure 8 fashion
this
;
when
between the spokes on the rim, the cement immediately began to run and ooze out at the edges. This operation being continued all round the wheel, the rubber may be considered to be a fixture (until it comes off). This method of fixing may be carried through without the hands coming in contact with the cement in any way, and it makes a very satisfactory job. The superfluous cement has got to be carefully cleaned off and the
;
tendency shows itself, the spokes must be slackened, when the rim will be found to come right again. Our three wheels constructed, we have now to fix on the rubber tyres. The tyres are bought of a size,
both
the
in
wheels
now completed, we
will
One
tricycle
the bearings.
The
large wheel,
is
and
and the
Cement
To
prepare the
filed
There
may
be noticed
down much
file
away
so
named
and
ball-bearings.
Plain bearings are simply cylinders of steel or gunmetal, fitting neatly on to the axles.
The rim
well
cleaned
with
When
properly
at the fire.
made and
fitted,
171
have now to consider the bearings of the crank pedal shaft, these are shown Fig. 7, a, b. This bearing
consists of a bracket fitted to move up or down on the rod depending from the frame for that purpose. This bracket carries a ball, or sphere of hard brass, bored through to admit the shaft ends, the balls are made with
We
In roller bearings, a series of small rollers are the rollers come in contact with the
;
and revolve along with it, but in the opposite direction, the aim being to lessen the friction,
thereby making the machine easier to drive. Both these forms of bearings have largely given place to
ball bearings.
Ball bearings are composed of small steel balls enclosed in cases prepared with grooves to receive them these cases usually encircle collars or rings on
;
and tapped for the studs which are not screwed quite home, so the ball is free to revolve on them. Then to allow the balls a little play the other way, the holes in the jaws of the bracket are someare bored
On
grooves to fit the the shaft being set in motion, these balls
what elongated, as shown in Fig. 7, B by this arrangeaxle always finds a proper bearing in the balls, even though not carefully adjusted parallel with the main shaft. The brackets are adjusted and held in place on the depending rods by studs or set screws
;
ment the
at the back.
The
balls
and
To remove
is
the cranked
one oiling serving for a long journey, and being fitted, the oil does not ooze out
to the dress of the rider, as
it
and get on
often does
The
;
may
known
they
in either case,
by amaunder
are
and
machine
at present
the shaft may be replaced with equal and adjusted inside of two minutes. Another object in view in the invention of this bearing is that for more direct or vertical pedal action.
frequently
;
facility
consideration,
only plain
well
home-made bearings
The
used, which,
if
made and
are very little inferior to the best, and when a little worn can be replaced at very small cost. In our machine all the bearings are of hard or bush brass. The main axle has two bearings, that on the
left is fixed under the tube frame, between the chain wheel and brake drum. It is a forked bearing, as
thereby bringing the pedals some 3 inches further back rider. I have found the bearing to answer
in every
way, and
I
if fitted
as a ball bearing,
wished
for.
will
shown
in Fig. 5 at A, is
made
being readily removed from the frame by the withdrawal of one bolt. The whole load is on the upper
side of this bearing.
{To be continued.*)
The
piece, Fig.
5, B, is
slipped
in between the jaws of a, after it is on the axle, and a I inch bolt is passed through the jaws of A, underneath the piece E this prevents the frame lifting from the axle when pulling at the handles or using the brake. This
;
bearing
and
is
hollowed on the upper side to fit the tube, bolted thereto with \ inch bolts, a piece of
is
is
IV.
also
keep
it
-HOW HAVE
TO CARVE IN WOOD.
already
explained
in
previous
The
a proper bearing on the the right or open end of the shaft is shown in Fig. 6. At this end of the shaft the weight on the axle is downwards, the
free to find
papers the various tools and appliances required by the wood-carver, and shall
The bearing on
now proceed
carving in wood.
be understood that
bearing
is
therefore
made
meter of the axle drilled through it. It is bolted to the under side of the long tube with rubber between,
as the other.
impossible to give written instructions it is almost on every detail of the wood-carver's art, and I shall
therefore give general directions only, as to the treat-
ment of the
172
details,
the
or
number
rose,
of petals in a
curl
edge of the
the right
tool,
and
it,
or
acts as a guide to
twist to
leaf,
be given to a
instance,
to
for
the
individual
skill
taste
of
the
handle,
as
and
teur.
of the
ama-
so to speak,
The grand
ing,
is
be found that
success in wood-carvto
with this
holding the
obtain
complete
to
command
power
cised,
can be
and
at the
same
time there
the will of
rator,
opeof
FIG. 22.
irrespective
tool,
difficulties in the
shape
PORTION
DESIGN
which
so
frequently
effect
of
the
grain of the
WHEN BLOCKED
OUT.
mar
the
of a
-DESIGN AS
wood,
tain
etc.
To
ob-
IN
piece
of
work.
this
mastery
the
only
carving
some
only
workmen
the
will
slightly"blockout"
design in the
may
be,
will
be found that
continued practice
is
work
the
to
be done
in
accustom oneself to
the use of the tools.
finishing.
Of
wood intended
be
carved,
is
carvingit
to grasp
subjected to at least
left
two processes,
the
viz.,
roughing,
out,
or
blocking
FIG. 23.
and
pro-
hand
comes
to
rORT:ON
OF PANEL TO LEFT
WHEN COMPLETED.
the finishing
i73
easily
be
utilized
as
have given a
marked, or
conventional design
of
traced on the
to
wood
is
sunflowers
and
de-
be carved,
to
leaves.
These
however,
away
signs,
are
groundwork
panel,
for
this
of
can
instance.
is
easily be enlarged
by
When
the
done,
outlines
and
design
We
that
will
of the
suppose
piece
the
in-
should
be
roughly
of
wood
tended for the panel has been smoothly planed and squared,
ad-
visable to thoroughly
sharpen
required,
carefully
the
tools
to
off
and then
finish
I
thickness,
every detail.
in Fig.
21,
have,
given a
which
may
FIG. 24.
PANEL,
and that the design has been drawn on the wood, as in Fig. 21. The work should
FIG. 25.
GROTESQUE
174
new be
of
means
I.,
design.
When
the work
is
finished,
oil,
it
the wood-carver's
screw (described
in
Vol.
or
it
page 277) or a thin piece of deal can be screwed on to the back of the panel, and then a couple of screws can be put through the ends of the piece of deal, which should project an inch at each end of the
panel,
on no account be used. Fig. 24 shows the design when " blocked out," and Fig. 23 shows it in its finished
state.
It
and screwed
all,
to the bench.
The
wood-carver's
to
will
be an easy matter,
in
amateur
it
round the outside of the outlines of the leaves and stems, and inside of the panel mouldings, and then with tools of the proper shape, and the mallet set in the lines made with the parting tool. Cut away all the shaded
it
for the
it
Fig. 24
flower,
tional,
and refer shape and twist of the leaves, etc. In will be observed that the shape of the sun-
and the treatment of it is decidedly convenand in like manner the leaves may be treated
of working to be adopted with this, as the
The
is
The method
exactly the
for the panel.
ground-work of the design should be about | or 5 of an inch deep, and when this depth is reached, the "router" will be found a most convenient instrument
for regulating the depth.
same
method
is
have described
or brackets, the
finishing off
it
same treatment
will
to
be used, but
in
The
"
be
in
many
cases advisable to
depth required, and then by and working it sharply backwards and forwards, a level ground will be obtained.
firmly,
champfer the edges of the leaves, etc., from the back, so as to take away the appearance of heaviness, which
invariably results
when
etc.,
In setting
will
down
etc., it
are
left.
I
be better to cut outside the lines, and care should be taken to cut down perpendicularly otherwise, if
;
noticed in
Amateur Work
;
for October,
an
to
and
I
in
case any
of the
may
feel inclined
be
finished.
Bent
flat tools
are
groundwork, and for clearing out the wood that cannot be got at with the " router."
When
ing and
should be put in until the whole design has been gone over in this manner. It is better in doing this to use hollow tools only, leaving the
the work with.
flat
have given two grotesque designs, which may be carved on the head of Fig. 25 is a suiteither walking-sticks or umbrellas. able design for an ordinary knob, and Fig. 26 will suit a If the reader does not care to half-crutch admirably. go to the trouble of preparing a stick, he can easily buy one that will suit his purpose at a cheap rate. In carving heads, elc, on sticks, it is always better to and rely entirely on the grotesque to furnish designs it will be an agreeable surprise to the amateur, to find how easily these grotesque heads can be cut on a
walking-sticks for themselves,
;
make
Of
stick.
the lines
The
glove
;
is, all
sharp points,
or tear the
should be used.
which are
hand
When
all
as above described, there remains only the last process to go through, and we begin this by first of all
carefully finishing the moulding,
which
in this
case
is
simply a
flat
rectify
any
little
and the design should in every case be adapted In carving these to the size and shape of the knob. heads, a vice is required to hold the stick firmly, and then the same process is gone through, as with all first of all, draw other descriptions of carvings roughly the design on the nob, then block out, and finally finish off the work, adding any fancy touches that may be deemed advisable to give effect to the
;
When
this is
done,
we commence
until
it
work
has
all
been gone
over,
with carvers, to It is a frequent practice roughly model the design in clay before commencing to carve it in the wood, or if clay is not at hand, to
design.
veins of the leaves require to be put in with a veiner, and the stems require to be roughed, so as to give a
natural appearance to the work.
chop
in
The
various tools
will
have been previously described, and it that about eighteen will be necessary
be found
this
to
work
the work, outlines frequently have to be rectified, and alterations made, that arc not
AND MAINTENANCE.
its
175
When
it is
setting in
mitted to
action.
To
instance,
wise, the
caused to pass through the prepared sand, the pyrolusite of which removes any
after leaving the iron, is
groundwork presents a surface defaced with tool-marks after the outlines have been corrected, and
it is
filter.
Eminent Not
:
authorities
speak
may
the ground
ever,
it is
;
punched.
clean
a good plan to use the tools boldly, and cut instead of which, many beginners will make a
suffice.
be quoted from the " Army Medical Report for the year 1877 " " The action of spongy iron is slow but complete ; about twenty-two minutes is the time of
exposure, and this
is
all
Before finishing this series of papers on woodcarving, I will give designs and instructions for
delicate carving in ebony,
but very impure waters. The water filtered shows no tendency to favour the growth of low forms of life,
and
will also
give directions
water
for
may
also be
and designs
in
medium
an
indefinite
{To be continued?)
This
the "
filter,
FILTERS:
is made by Spongy Iron Domestic Filter Company," of 505, Oxford Street, London, W.C. The price of the filter shown in the figure is 19s. complete, or the inner
ALFRED
W. SOWARB.
may be bought
for
6d.
It is
have described several being made by the amateur mechanic. I have now to say a few words about some of the best of those more complex arrangements which,
previous articles
I
filters
capable of
imposed by the Patent Laws, a domestic filter might be made by the amateur, of a flower pot supplied, in place of charcoal, with spongy iron and a substratum of pyrolusite. A supply of the spongy iron and prepared sand may be purchased separately at the Company's depot, " for re-charging," at the cost of 2S. This is one of 2. The Silicated Carbon Filter. the best known of the "block" charcoal filters. Fig. 26 shows a common form of it. The "Army Medical
although in most cases beyond the power of the amateur to make, and being moreover patented
articles,
bon
in
filters employing carporous blocks, that, " These are powerful filters
because they are so frequently met with in household use, be known to him in detail. The filters which I
scraping,
have selected
the Spongy
and require frequent Water impure waters. filtered through them and stored, shows signs of the formation of low forms of life, but in a less degree
especially
with
The
on account of the wide them the last, because of its ingenuity of construction, and economy and rapidity in use.
;
two
than with the loose charcoal. After a time the purifying power becomes diminished in a marked degree,
and water
less
left in
medium
is
degree than
is
I.
Filter.
in
This
filter,
shown
in
section in one of
forms
These filters are made by the " Silicated Carbon The Filter Company," of Baltersea, London, S.E.
price of the one figured
3.
is 5s.
compartments.
of these, a, contains metallic iron, in what is as the " spongy " state. Another portion of the same compartment, B, contains a substance, called by the makers, " prepared sand,'' which is a mixture of fine
gravel and a mineral
One known
little
known but
filter,
brought to
my
notice.
essentially
a carbon
known
as pyrolusite (bin-oxide
and employs as the filtering medium a substance, termed by the makers, " Maignen's patent
carbo-calcis."
of manganese).
Other compartments, C and D, are for the unfiltered and filtered water respectively. Spongy iron is reputed to be one of the best filtering
This carbo-calcis
it
of fine powder,
material
is used in the state being (to quote the Lancet) a " now
mediums
in use, but
it
trivial)
disadvan-
material."
more efficacious than a thick one of coarse The makers state that a coating of -h inch
176
of this
have.
The first thing to be done is to boil some of the water to dryness, and to examine the residue. The boiling down can be effected in the apparatus shown
in Fig. 33,*
The component
Figs. 27 to 31,
section) in Fig. 32.
is
parts of the
filter
filter
are
(in
shown
in
half-full of
and the
complete
Fig. 27,
and
A, Fig. 32,
(In the
the outside case, which also acts as the reservoir for the filtered water. Fig. 28, and
Fig. 32,
is
an iron tripod is shown.) In place of the usual lid, the saucepan is provided
with a circular piece of tin-plate, pierced with three holes of about 2A inches diameter
each.
B,
hold the
filtered water.
Fig. 29,
and
c,
Fig. 32,
The
little
porce-
which serve to hold area of filtering surface to the water. Fig. the water during evaporation. All being ready, the gas is lighted, and a portion of a 30, and D, Fig. 32, is a "filtering cloth," woven out of pure asbestos, a mineral submeasured quart of the water under examistance which, being uninjured by exposure nation is poured into one of the basins. Into FIG. 26. SILICATED to intense heat, is well adapted for use for another is poured a portion of a like quantity CARBON FILTER. a purpose which necessitates purification by A, Porous Blocks B, of a water of known average purity. The TJnflltered Water; C, fire. This filtering cloth is placed over the Filtered Water. water in the saucepan presently boils, and frame C, and tied in position with cord prepared rising against the bottoms of the steam the hot from pure asbestos. Over this cloth is spread a thin basins, warms' and evaporates the water contained layer of the filtering medium the " carbo-calcis " Aslthis evaporation proceeds, more water in them. before referred to. Fig. 31, and E, is poured into the basins, until Fig. 32, is a screen, the object of the whole of the two sample which is to break the fall of the quarts has been driven off in water coming from above, and so vapour, leaving the solid matter
"filtering frame," designed to offer a large
lain evaporating basins,
prevent the
filtering medium from being washed off the cloth. This filter is made at the As-
The
is
object
of using the
it
saucepan (or
is
bestos Works,
Street,
called)
burn-
per
lb.,
and asbestos
my
first article
promised
remarks
happen unless great Having compared the two residues, both as to quantity and appearance, the naked flame is applied to the bottom of the basins, cautiously and gradually. " If the original residue is white and powdery in appearance, that is, so far. a good
otherwise
care were taken.
sign
;
but
if
it
is
partly white
my
as
-J^o
'
promise.
I,
therefore, pass
I
and partly yellowish or greenish, and especially if there are gumke stains round the residue, then, on heating those parts of
the residue,
see
have
we
shall probahly
10 make an accurate analysis v of a sample of water is far beyond the power of the average amateur. It requires considerable knowledge and experience, and the use of expensive apparatus but there are a few rough and ready tests, which may be applied by anyone who has dabbled in chemistry, as probably most of my readers
;
SP0NGY IKON "cottage" filter. fig 2 ^ A, Spongy Iron B, Prepared Sand, Fine Gravel. and Pyrolueite; C, Unaltered Water; D, Filtered
;
them darken, fuse, and burn away in part, giving out fumes
having a disagreeable smell. If the blackening is considerable, much organic matter is present but if the smell is
;
Plain * Copied from a sketch in Professor A. H. Church's Words about Water," a little pamphlet which will well repay perusal. It is published for the Committee of Council on Education, by Chapman and Hall (1877, 36 pp., price 4d.)
' '
AND MAINTENANCE.
The
test-tube
is
177
certain that
tube,
solution of nitrate of
the organic matter is of animal origin, and is, therefore, .more likely to be unwholesome, or even poisonous."
<This and
a
later
quotation
are
from
Professor
" phos-
Church's pamphlet.)
shaken up. If a white curdy substance is formed, the water should be held in suspicion. If, however, a mere cloudiness is produced, such as would result from adding a few drops of milk,
silver.
The
phates."
the salt
is
little
of
it
is
placed in a "test-tube"
sufficient
To
is
j(Fig. 34),
and, drop
by drop,
it.
strong nitric
The tube
its
acid
is
added
-solution of
downwards through
mixture
warmed
the
.gas
is
over
" If
"
Bunsen
flame.
acquired
tinge.
phosphates
present, a
are
slight yellowish
lemon
Anything
lightest
yellow
colora-
duced,
or, if
the
phosphates are
present in large
quantity, a solid
LRn
more
than
ammonia
is
substance of yel-
good,
The
in its
ammonia,
turn,
proves
conta-
the botgiving
sewage
mination.
tom
this
of the tube.
Water
loration
As a
the
last test
yellow co-
following
applied:
" Fill
white
to
maybe
a clean
teacup
tested.
While the
water is being evaporated to
dryness, another
be
Add
about sixty
or
of
drops,
portion
may be
to
drachm
stir
weak
;
submitted
sulphuric acid
other
with a clean
f
!
Figs. 27-32. Maignen's Filtre Rapide. Fig. 27. Outside Case. Fig. 28. Inner Case. Fig. 29. Filtering Frame. Fig. 30. Filtering Cloth. Fig. 31. Screen. Fig. 32. Filter in Section (A, Outside Case B, Inner Case C, FilterFrame D, Filtering Cloth covered with Carbo-calcis E, Screen F, Unfiltered ine test-tube, and a Water G, Filtered Water). Fig. 33. Apparatus for Evaporating Water iew drops of (A, Saucepan; B, Iron Tripod Stand; C, Perforated Tin Plate D, Porcelain Basins). Fig. 34. Glass Test Tube. hydrochlori c
s ij p
.
window
g lass
now P our
.
.
enough, of a
1
acid added
.gas in
Then a solution
is
of sulphuretted hydrogen
is
water
poured
is
in,
well shaken.
imparted
the water,
the
of potash to render the water a rich rose colour. Cover the cup with a clean glass plate. Now, if there be much organic matter in the water, the colour will go
is
Another portion may be tested for common salt. This substance, although harmless in itself, and to be found in small quantity in all waters, is, if present in
large quantity, almost a sure indication of sewage contamination. To ascertain whether it is present in
more permanganate may be It must be recollected in using this test that peaty matters and iron salts, which are not necessarily unwholesome, give the same
in
added, and
result."
abnormal quantity, a few drops of strong nitric acid are added to a sample of the water contained in a test-
If the above tests are carefully applied, a very fair general idea as to the purity of the water under exam-
i 78
may
the primary
coils
and secondary.
In
some
of the scientific
be obtained from Messrs. Griffin and Sons, of 22, Garrick Street, London, W.C., at the prices mentioned
below.
s.
d.
.08
. .
o o o
1
7 7
*NessIer's Test
Sulphuric Acid
Permanganate of Potash
o o o
used for spectroscopic and other work, the secondary wire is 280 miles long. Much amusement can be got from a small coil, such as I am about to describe and I do not think the amateur will grudge the money and time spent on one when he has finished it. It may also be used for medical purposes in cases of rheumatism, in the same way as the magneto-electric machine. Many cheap coils are being sold nowa-days, but I would not advise the amateur to buy one. A really good one costs from 15s. up to g or
;
,10,
according to size
etc.,
make
a small one>
with condenser,
15s.
for about
it.
The
or 20s.
to
coil.
buy
will
describe the
marked with
cost 9d. each
;
asterisks
The requirements
very desirable.
3
oz. size,
by
f inch,
The
hydrogen solution should be kept, stopper-end downwards, in a dark place. So long as the solution
retains
its
it
it is
many, and are within the reach of every amateur. To make one of the dimensions I am about to describe, you will require one oz. of No. 24 cotton-covered wire, and two or three ozs. of No. 36 cotton or silk-covered wire (silk, of course, being preferable but more expensive), a bunch of annealed iron wire, a small piece of platinum foil and wire, four binding screws, and
of time
When
the smell
is
completely
gone the solution is no longer of use. I have now only to wish my readers success in any attempts which they may make in the construction of filters, and to remind them that if they encounter any difficulties help can be obtained through the medium of the column for "Amateurs in Council."
some pieces of brass, a piece of mahogany for a baseboard and for ends to the reel, and a few tools, among which may be mentioned a soldering iron. Having
given you a general idea of what you will require,
will
I
now proceed
1.
manu-
facture.
A coil
One
first
2.
And,
piece of
make
mahogany about
1
HOW
BUILT
MY FIRST
*
COIL.
circular pieces
in.
hole
in
is
By R. WILLIAMS.
allow
Two
I
;
smaller holes
URING
when
are drilled in one of the pieces with a fine bradawl near the hole in the centre, as in Fig. the second one
to
do.
Among
Two
Fig.
many
It
its
is electricity.
elektron amber, as
in
that
substance.
which claim his attenis derived from the Greek word properties were first discovered Electricity is of two kinds
subjects
The
next part
is
the core
it
consists of
a.
bunch
long.
of annealed iron wire cut into pieces 2J inches When you have cut them straighten them out.
Now
and pack
all
your
frictional
and
voltaic,
but
it
is
we
have to deal just now in the form of induced currents. Induced currents are obtained from magneto-electric machines, coils, etc., by the making and breaking of
leaving about | inch of the ends projecting out of the tube now take a piece of brass or very
wire into
many hundred times in a minute. are greatly indebted to Messrs. Ruhmkorff, Hearder Bentley, and others for the perfection to which they
the circuit
We
and wind it tightly round the end of the wires, always pulling them further out of the tube and winding until they are out altogether, when you must tie the wire you were winding with. It does not matter
thin iron wire
how
they are
file
have brought the induction coil. The coil may be used for medical and scientific purposes, and also or amusement. The coil is divided into two parts
take a
wound if it is wound tight enough. Now and file the ends of the core even and
this,
and
all,
it is
179
then
lift
it
it
36,
among
the ashes beneath the grate, and leave it there to cool of itself. Don't put it amongst water or you
will spoil
(it
to the
push 4 inches through the hole in the opposite end primary wire, and proceed to wind as you did
will
from among the ashes take two or three hours to cool), blow off any dust which may be upon it, give it a gentle heat, and put it into your dish of melted
it.
When
cold, take
it
always turning at the ends, until the whole of it is wound on except 4 or 5 inches, which you pass through the hole above the other. The ends
the primary,
thus
fine,
left
As
this
wire
is
very
paraffin.
This
is
not the
paraffin
we burn
in
lamps,
re-
must be taken in the winding, as it is easily broken. As an example of how to wind on the wire, it is wound in the same way as a reel of cotton thread. Before proceeding further, you should see if the circuit is complete by joining the secondary wires to a battery and galvanometer, but take care you Now melt your paraffin as don't break them off.
great care
before, but this time in a cup or jug, or anything in
END OF REEL.
A, Hole f or Core B, B, Holes for ends of Primary Wire.
;
it,
which
it
will
paraffin candles
and melt
After
;,.
Now
and
set
it
down by
the
fire
them n a djsh
j
in a pretty
has been
take
it it
among
to drip
above the
plate.
reel.
When
Take
into
it
cotton on your wire), and allow the paraffin to soak it for about an hour, then take it out and allow
to drip.
It
is
hard you
may
should drip
it
off
should
now
if
off;
remain in a solid lump, like a small iron rod) and fix on the two pieces of wood, one at each end they should go on tightly if properly made leave about
;
;
inch of the core projecting at one end -rs the other end should be flush, as in Fig. 3. Now take a piece of foreign note paper and cut a strip exactly the length of your core between the two ends.
:
JA
1
Then
it
roll
two thicknesses of it round the core, and Melt a little paraffin over it to make
adhere
tightly,
and rub
a hot
FIG. 3.
I 1
You
will
now be ready
No.
24,
Take the
thickest,
of
3 inches of it out through one of the holes in the end where the core projects, and proceed to wind on the rest of the wire round the core (above t,he paper)
close, even layer. you reach the other end, wind it back above the first layer until you reach the end at which you started, then push the end through the other hole, and
is
very
You now
in
When
between the ends you did your paper) and as long as will go round the wire. It is then drawn tightly round and sewn
cut a strip the exact length of wire
(as
with a thread.
give a
I
The how
velvet
is
and
more
will
describe
make
draw
will
FIG.
2.
it
out tightly.
be a good
it
bit of
There your
END OF REEL.
will
be useful.
Cut the wire off about 4 inches from the end of the reel, and the primary wire will be complete. Melt your paraffin again, and with a hot spoon pour it over the
A, Hole for Core; B. B, Holes for ends of Secondary Wire.
AVING
it
myself derived
much
it
instruction
from the
pages
of
Amateur Work,
wound until the cotton is saturated. Take your paper again, and put one thickness over
wire,
a hot
and
it
will
first coil
of wire.
completely, give it a rub with adhere to the paraffin on the Now take your secondary wire, No.
it
might prove were I to give a description of an article of which I have constructed a few, and which have been so much admired that I have numerous applications
occurs to
that
interesting to other readers
me
l8o
from friends
house, as
for copies.
AN ORNAMENTAL CLOCK
I
HOUSE.
mean an ornamental
i.
clock
shown
I
Things
purchased, but
who
prefers to
make
ornament the base. Around the sides and, on the front portion of the upper surface, pencil out any suitable devices, say, stars, flowers, or crest and motto, and cut them out tV inch deep for inlaying with any different coloured wood, or with bone, metal, etc. As, however, very few amateurs will
to
if
Now
desired,
may
serve
Master Frank's prying fingers, and, if presentable, cost much money, whereas the article I propose is better-looking, solid and heavy, and almost unbreakable, while the cost
is
be had
to the following
method, which
file
will
every purpose.
blocks, black
Saw
is
or
up
for dust
small
inlaying wood.
favourite,
ebony
my
has
for
lasted
years.
me
With a
the cuts
chip of
fill
may be
pick up
bits
able to
the
design
glue
in the
it
a few
with
dust
hot
of
hard-
and rub
stands
until
above
Let
hard,
file
the wood.
this
any
lathe
workshop.
a
pretty
dry
Even without a
thing
and then
level, will
off
it
when
to
tell
can
be
take a keen
it
made, by carving
the
pillars
eye
from the
more
advise
the
once,
tedious inlaying.
Now
to
The
to
first
thing
is
polish
at
if
be
done
which
a
block
to
prepare
the
is
and
unacwith
the
base,
quainted
simply
rect-
angular block of
amateur can do
almost
as
well
it
by
PERSPECTIVE VIEW OF ORNAMENTAL CLOCK HOUSE.
giving
the
best
sorts
several coats of
" knotting " var-
being
nish
threepenmy
This should be
left
or 2 inches
nyworth
by
51
One
this
any paint shop will do the whole house dries as fast as rubbed on (with a rag rubber),
at
fine
square,
and gives a
workshop.
gloss.
find
it
invaluable in
bevelled off with a slight concave, starting from half an inch above the lower edge, so as to leave that much
square on which to fasten the base moulding or beading. A half-inch bevel will leave the upper surface
by si inches. For the beading, turn up in the lathe enough of the same wood a trifle over inch square split it fairly with a fine saw, fit the two corners and glue on
7
;
For the pillars, procure four pieces over 9 inches and plane them truly to J inch square I prefer greenheart, but any obtainable hardwood will do mark the square and round parts, as per Fig. 2, and
long,
; ;
inch to
fit
be
8 inches high.
For these
pillars,
Here I wish to say that I never fail to assist glue when possible, by screws, nails or wooden pins.
help.
when
in place, ^
AN ORNAMENTAL CLOCK
the front edge.
HOUSE.
1S1
wing 4j inches
clear
to
roof-pieces
admit
ttife
Bfhe r^f
1
P illars
ma Y
is
S within
and
laid
vertical
meet a strip cut into scallops or points, between them. Cut the side eaves
the roof in
its
_ inch of the ba
tfie
b'ock, which
not bevelled.
place with
strip
Next or
for
th'_-
gs} turn
strong
glue,
running a three-cornered
ridge
inside,
along
each side, la.inj a small tenon of s inch at each end to. hoi them in the rail, top and bottom. Mahogany or ebny balusters look well they are
;
beneath the
and fastening down the whole with two small brass screws from inside through each cross-piece. Now fit on a proper back
of
to
be
_V
inch
h the
wood
similar to the
clear.
in
Kace
fit
the pilars
the
it
their holes,
me sure
the
inside
surface,
as
and
:he
rails,
Let this
fit
are to be mir-
tised
in
inch,
a.d
screw
it
to the
exactly
fitted
so as
driving also
down through
to
the roof
Take all asurSu der. glue in the baluster^H when dry fit each paj^f
a block. of pillars together,
drive
all
prevent
of
oak,
the
back
out de-
warping.
bit
Next, out of a
carve
like the
an^H
something
vation,
this is
a shield surmounted by
whicMS
Fasten
fine
on
To
save
injuring
the
,.
and
screws,
let
points of the
in driving,
it is
minaret%
best
.,
well
n^H
c;^H
to
as the pillar
of the lathe.
For the
be cut home,
filed
driviiJ^
poifl
and
round.
Try the work with<M square, and screw on temporary back to kea
things right while th*i
them
roof,
on
against
the three
driving
in
roof is being
fitted.
F<*
down
headless pins
to assist.
each
two
bits of
board (oak
ROOF.
The next
operation
Scale, Halt Size. looks best) to about I or is to clean up for final fo inch thick, each to make one side of the roof. Begin polishing, which latter being done, paste a piece of by having those pieces longer and wider than they apred velvet on the bottom, and the house is ready for pear to need, as one is liable to make a mistake here. its tenant, which may be one of those neat little
Remember
fit
is
clocks,
which
down over
and per-
on the bevelled cross-pieces c (which must have two screw holes in each) and their upper ends meeting at any desired angle. If an ornamental ridge be desired, let both
exactly, resting
Should a clock not be procurable at the time, a nice coloured " scrap " may be gummed on inside the back. One I presented to a Freemason, looked well
when
tion,
inlaid with
however,
is
182
ted to an ordinary
el cutters,
which
misfij
W.
J.
TAYLBU,
C.E., A.I.M.E.
away
with.
The motion
of t
a rotary and
of the tails
sizes
YII. MOULDING AND DOVETAILING MACHINES CUTTING-EDGES OF TOOLS GRINDING & TEMPERING,
;htkness of the saw and pins can be varied from up to any dimensions re mi d in practice, their
down
OULDING MACHINES
ing
in
wood-work-
all
machinery would naturally come under the same classification as planing machines, and, after saws, must be put
H07
the
The mr iru
and
e-ta-.i
made
of several
down
as
As
the
types and
forms,
crformanee embraces
jonts,
moulding capable of being executed by a hand-power machine is exceedingly limited, confined in point of fact to such things as small mouldings for picture-frames, small headings, etc., we will not here enter into any portion of the history of the development of moulding
every
known
sort of do\
whether ordinary,
tyngied and grooved. For cabinet work they wov.ld.be fcand most invaluable to an amateur, performing; dovetailed grooving with a
or lapped, or mitred,
'>r
and shaping machines, but proceed at once to describe a small combined sawing and moulding machine, manufactured by Mr. James Rigg, Phasnix Ironworks, Chester. This little machine is most peculiarly adapted to the requirements of amateurs, but it would also be found a most convenient and useful tool for cabinet and pattern makers the fact of its combining two such useful tools together renders it most valuable to an amateur, creating as it does a saving in first cost and also in the room taken up by the machine. As will be seen* by glancing at the illustrations (Figs. 28 and 29),
;
and perfecticn that no hand-work, however This is a could by an; mean' possibly effect. very beautifully finished machine, and the work that
speed
skilled,
it
is
capable of turning
.,
oit is as
near perfection as
it
bui ft are afraid that the prices, which can be obta ned o> application, arc unfortunately
is
possible to attai
;
whom
p.ici n
this
clever
an invaluable aid
in
the
can be either driven off a small countershaft by a light gas or steam-engine, or it can be mounted upon the stand (Fig. 29), fitted with a handwheel,
crankshaft,
angle of
etc.,
bevBS
>r
shown
in
the illustration,
It
is
and treadle
for
driving by
foot
is
Fig. 31,
useful.
sup-
power.
As
machine
so
arranged that
etc.
may be
by Messes. Churchill & Co Finsbury, E.C., at a very low figure. The machine is run with a clutch, so that when the treadle is pressed down it starts off in the
plied
right direction,
As a moulding machine
it
capable of mould-
ing,
be desired
in.
betting, etc.
thick,
it
1
is fitted
This machine can be had from Messrs. Rigg, complete as shown in the sketch, to carry saws up to 8 inches. The price, including one circular saw, headstock, parallel guide
meter by
used
at
in
inch thick.
and spanner,
guide,
is
7
;
^3
ios.;
;
bevel
16s. 6d.
moulding head,
17s. 6d.
and
cutters, 5s.
In Fig. 30, we illustrate a patent dovetailing machine, recently invented by Mr. Tighe Hamilton, of Dublin; Messrs. Powis, Bale & Co., 20, Budge Row, E.C., are the sole agents in London. It is
an angle of about 25 to the face of the iron for soft wood, and at about 40 for hard wood. Turners' finishing tools, which are sharpened on both sides, and ground off obliquely on their face, should be at angles Obtuse angles in such tools are in of 110 and 70 general a mistake, as they really scrape or abrade in.
stead of cutting.
The
made
of
ing very fine work in a satisfactory manner the smaller sizes are arranged with a treadle to be
;
worked by the
foot, this is
wrought iron faced with steel, as they are easier to make and less liable to fracture than those made of solid steel. The very best quality of steel should be employed in the manufacture of cutters, that combining in as high a degree as possible toughness with
hardness
is
The remarkable
feature in the
machines
is
that they
183
bits,
when
the object
is
to
and the
when he
the stone
half-round, knife-edge,
and other; some small slips of Washita or Water of Ayr stone should be also at hand for finishing with. The slips should be ground
a variety of forms on their edges. Ayr stone is undoubtedly the best, but it is now becoming very
to scarce, the sources
stone
The operation of grinding a tool to a cutting edge appears so simple that most people are totally unaware of the large amount of knowledge, as well as skill, that can be displayed in merely sharpening a tool. One must have a thorough acquaintance with the nature of
the material to be cut, and also
cutting
it,
running from than towards the cutting edge, as the damage to the edge of the tool, were it to catch in the stone, would be very serious, and would necessitate a
great
amount
of extra grinding,
it.
of metal to repair
It is
also
much
easier to hold
the tool steady with the stone running from the edge.
The
some experience
variation
it
in
be kept
stone,
in order to
know what
may be
and
necessary to make in the tool in order to adapt it to the differences in texture, closeness of grain, hardness,
etc.,
in Fig. 32 will be found very useful. It can be instantly applied to the face of the stone, and works automati-
to
be found
in different speci-
cally without
interfering with
its
mens
same
All that
necessary
is
to
until the
desired
erations of strength,
facet
is
de-
removed from the trough. This useful little article can be had from Messrs. Churchill. The price, with
a 7 inch
roller,
is
termined either by considerations of strength or shape. It may be taken as a general rule that the harder the material to be cut, the more the approach of the two facets to a right angle one with another the greater
;
10s.
with a 12 inch
roller,
12s. 6d.
Fig. 33 represents another grindstone dresser, Brunton's Patent, made by Messrs. E. P. Bastin & Co.,
right angle.
tion,
the strength required, also the nearer the facets to a Where strength is the main considera;
at
West Drayton. It consists of a single steel disc, set a particular angle and arranged to traverse across
it must be obtained at a sacrifice of keenness but where sharpness is the main consideration, then strength is disregarded. Regarding the question as
A circular face
can be given to
supply of water on the stone whilst grinding, as by a well-known law the water seeks the highest point.
depends entirely upon the amount of metal requiring off, the condition of the grindstone, and the shape of the tool to be ground. The operation can be performed with more expedition if the tool is held in such a position that the revolving surface of the stone runs towards the operator but this mode js attended with some danger, as the edge of the tool is very liable to catch in a spot or in any soft part in the stone, and to be dragged from the fingers, when they may be very seriously injured by being carried violently against the rest, and caught between it and
it
The
up
to
to be ground
4 inches in width, is ,5 1 5s., larger sizes are also made. For those who may find a difficulty in holding the
tool to
in Fig. 34
be ground, the simple arrangement illustrated would be of service. It can be had from Messrs. Churchill for a trifling cost, 2s., which it will
It
amply repay.
using
it
mode
of
merely consists of a frame through which the plane-iron or other tool to be ground is passed, being held in position by a clamp
being self-evident.
;
the stone.
Where
is
a small wheel fixed beneath travels on the surface of the stone. The tool can be ground to any desired
angle by adjusting
its
fine,
To produce
not separate from the body of the metal. Soft metal has always more feather edge than hard metal. The
the stone also affects this edge, so that the operator should allow for this by
by the grindstone, the oil-stone must be resorted to. Care must be taken to keep the facets being stoned, A wire edge will be level with the face of the stone.
formed upon the
taken
;
tool,
is
first
stage
to
reduce this as
much
as possible
by
finishing
184
up with a few
to heat a J inch
in
two
further
minutes.
reduce the wire edge for very fine work, a piece of upon a piece of wood will be found most
To Temper Turning
den the
tool.
This
it
is
when
it
of a bright
quickly in water,
will
then be in
its
and cleanly
in-
brittle state.
Then brighten
end
stead of putting
oil
file,
place
r
Another most important question is the proper temper of cutters and tools, and as the temper is often destroyed in the process of grinding, and it becomes
necessary
to
tool,
J inch.
Watch
appearance
reit is
temper a
desirable
that
an
with
tool
emery-cloth,,
the
flame
as
The
right
temper
before.
As soon as
on
the
tool'
appears
wood
to
;
It
would
sible to
be
lay
impos-
down
fast
for harder
woods,
the temper
slightly
may be
in
harder
down
it
of colour, as of course,
proportion.
In the
differs,
widely
different
with
the
qualities
is
of vital
that
of
steel.
With
sufficient,
importance
there
should be a
be
gradual shading of
colour in the tem-
whilst others
must
be
let
down
It is
nearly-
per.
should
If
there
to
blue.
a good
quickly
happen
TIGHE HAMILTON
at
the
different
shades
of
colour,
towards the edge of the cutters, it is very likely to chip or break at this line. The great object to be attained
when
is
entirely
unknown. The
distinguish the
have the edge of the cutter tolerably hard, and this hardness reduced gradually the further you get from the cutting edge, the softer metal at the back
is
to
by daylight, as
it
is
very
difficult to
it.
Where
fire
may not be
always
at
gas-heater, illustrated in Fig. 35, would be found handy for tempering drills and other small tools it can be
;
the price
It is stated to
steel, i
inch in
For hardening cutters, the following will be found an excellent recipe Four parts of powdered yellowresin and two parts of train oil, carefully mixed, and one part of heated tallow added. Dip the article to. be hardened into the mixture whilst hot, and allow it to remain in it until it is quite cold. In conclusion, we may observe that there are, of
:
course, a great
number
i86
necessary about an amatear's workshop, but which do not come under the same class as machinery, and
which
for the
most part he
will
be able
to construct
for
much
etc.
some Even
bench, glue-heaters,
Useful hints and instructions for these and other articles will doubtless be found
both
in former and future parts of Amateur Work. have given a brief description of all the small wood-working machines of a really serviceable character made by engineers, that can be driven by foot
We
formed upon its face have Thus, the straight flat the fine stroke of a flat letter is a stem lines at the top and bottom of a letter are serifs and a projection over the shank
designations applied to them.
; ;
and hind-power, with which we are acquainted, and which would be suitable for an amateur, except the foot-lathe, the most ancient machine known, and most undoubtedly not one of the least in importance. The lathe, however, need not be noticed in this series of papers, which is now brought to a conclusion, for it has already been described in the pages of this Magazine, and the description that has been given will be immediately followed by articles on lathes now in the market that are low in cost and within the power of amateurs of even the most moderate means to purchase. Instructions will also be shortly given in Lathe-making, which will enable any amateur who can use his carpenter's tools with good effect to make a cheap and useful lathe for himself.
The counter is called a "kern." space between the lines of the face.
face b (Fig. 2)
is
is
the
The
impression
lines
is
taken
is
the shoulder,
ne
is
PARTS OK A LETTKR.
groove, and the parts on either side the groove the feet. It will be well for the reader to make himself at
home
made use of. attempt the manufacture of the smaller sorts of type, as the accuracy which they
with these terms, as they are often
will
demand renders
N my
the
last
article
we
carefully
avoided
using technical terms and phrases, devoting our attention to a general outline of
entire
subject before
us.
If the
it
will
be
art,
which,
acquired at the outset, will enable the matter to be pursued in the various technical publications of the day, which would be sealed books to the amateur
printer without
the use of delicate and expensive machinery absolutely necessary. But the larger sorts may be attempted by anyone with ordinary mechanical talent and manual dexterity applied in the way we All English type is of one uniform shall point out. height from feet to face, viz., -ff of an inch, and in printer's parlance is called "type high." In the absence of any better means of making this measurement it will be useful to know that a shilling, standing edgewise, is type- high, and may be used in this manner for testing the accuracy of any wood block, stereotype, or letter about to be used with other letters in a page of type or forme, as it is called. While the measure of all letter is invariably 3k, y4, or type high, from feet to face, it differs 1 in width of body, or from side to side, according to the letter formed on its face. Thus the letter M, shown above in Fig. 2, is on a perfectly square shank, but the letter I would be only just wide enough to support the face of the letter, with perhaps a little spacing to ensure regularity between the various letters nicks in in a fount. These matters form the care of body of
The engravings in the margin will enable us to become acquainted with the general characteristics of a metal letter as used by printers. When a set of
letters is
LtTTEH
it is
to
arrange
new and
but
spoken
of,
be
it
large or small,
it
is
always
single type
would be
'
spoken of as a
rials of
letter.
This applies
to all letters
and
1 I
which they are composed. The novice, on looking at it, would mentally de-
same time we must understand the principles which regulate the size and form of printer's type. The depth of the body from top to bottom of its face is exactly the same for every letter, figure, and sign in any particular fount of type. This depth of body
at the
determines the
name
187
It
is
face.
pica,
and so
sizes
on.
most useful
to
some
but
this
smaller type
many
thus
:
of a most regretable want of agreement between the various typefounders to use a common standard measure so that pica letter, which measures of an inch in depth exactly from one founder, might be a hairsbreadth over from another, and a shade under this measurement from another. Thus it is that types of the same style and size from one founder cannot be used mixed with the letter from another maker, and not only on account of the
;
account
Many
table of
of some other, as
may be
Small Pica.
might be a
little higher up or lower down upon the shank, and thus produce an irregularity in printing
Long Primer.
Bourgeois.
which could not be allowed on any account. To provide against this difficulty, and to afford means to recognize any particular fount, the nicks (d) on the shank of the letter, are placed in various positions, higher up or lower down upon the body, and they may also vary in number; generally one to three nicks are used as in Fig. 3.
Minion.
Nonpareil.
Ruby.
Pearl.
Long Primer
Bourgeois
Brevier
Diamond.
Minikin.
appear
to
be
involved in obscu-
A few
examples
to the
will serve to
in printed
show
:
their general
appearance
eye
matter
of type are cast proportionate quanSpaces and Quadrats (Quads), which are simply short bodies, or shanks of type, without any letters on them, and varying in width, to produce spaces between words and letters. A " Fount " is the
tities
To each body
of
term applied
Nonpareil Type, used principally for books and other
fine
to
a set of
letters,
without regard to
its
work.
Brevier Type
,,
The complete series of names and sizes, with the number of lines to the foot, is shown in the following table. It will be remembered that the M is on a
type,
So that a fount may be a one pound (in weight) or a thousand pound fount, according to the purpose for which it is intended, and the extent of the work in hand. A complete fount of letter is comprised under nine heads, containing the following
size or extent.
sorts
Capitals.
ABCDEFGHIJK LM NOPQRSTUV
WXYZ(E&.
Small
Capitals.
2.
square shank and measures both ways the size of the i.e., in pica, ^th of an in. square, so that this
is is
letter
inch
the standard measure to printers, just as the to the carpenter and others. When used as a
it
ABCD EFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ
<m
3. ce.
term of measurement,
>
is
called an
"em," and
all
other types are calculated with reference to the Pica "em," but any special body of type may be described
as in the following table, in which so
its
Lower
n
ff
fi.
Case.
abcdef ghijklm
4.
opqrstu
w xy
zffits
many ems
Ems
of
ffi fl ffl:
own body
Figures.
Ems
Diamond
Pearl
to foot.
to foot.
..
..
... ...
208 178
i6 3
Ruby
Nonpareil
...
...
1234567890.
5.
... ...
144 130
128 112I 104 89 84
..
Pica
ber-jcrici)
..
72 64 5; 44i 42 36 32 26
Points,
etc.
,;:. ?!-'()
6.
[]*t_tIMT
:
Four kinds of
7. 8.
Spaces, viz.
and
Thick.
Em and En
9.
Quadrats.
Canon
is
Em
Quadrats.
Type
and Signs.
The
i88
descending, and kerned
are g
f
j j
Descending
In the
letters
p q
y,
in
Roman and
Italic.
Roman
and
its
used to remove the ink when washing the formes. Very much wood-letter is still made in the most simple way. A piece of suitable wood is procured, even in
grain,
d gj Iy
of
face.
and
free
high,
especially the
Roman
Some
face,
f,
when
at the
end of a
line,
then traced on
and the
wise necessary.
Italic capitals
are kerned on
may
upon an ascending
that
fi ffi
may
ff
fl
The double
sunken parts removed with gouges, chisels, or gravers. Rotary cutting-tools have also been used, and the letters moved under the tools, so as to cut away the parts required. Unlike metal types, which are sold by weight, wood-letter is sold by the dozen pieces ;
and, consequently, the smaller the
price,
letter the
letters
ffl,
lower in
5s.
one kerned letter joining with another, as their beaks would be damaged by coming in contact with each
other.
ranging from
in
is.
per
would advance
fount includes not less than
etc.
The whole
letters,
150,000
The
and 3-colour
letters
figures, spaces,
named, there is the general one between book-letter and job-letter. To the latter class belong the beautiful ornamental and fancy types, which now vie with the engraver in producing elegant lines and flourishes, in combination with rich designs for borders and backgrounds. Job letter consists, for the most part, of a
great variety of small founts, which enable circular-
Hard wood
is
not necessary
which the
heads, bill heads, business cards, and such like, to be produced with the striking contrasts between thick and thin letters, wide and narrow ones. Many of these, and certainly enough for the amateur's purpose, cost only a shilling or two per fount, while book-letter is required in such quantities, that pounds take the
place of shillings.
An
much
I pound in weight for every 3 square inches to be set up solid. Thus, a page 4 inches X 3 inches, = 12 inches, divided by 3, would give 4 lb., add 50 per
boxes not
re-
lb.
as the quantity
An
may be, and upon a piece of even-grained pine, quite soft, and free from faults of every description. Such blocks should not be thoroughly cleaned from ink after use, as the ink hardens on the face of the lines, and makes a better surface to print from. The amateur may have some ability in designing and drawing free-hand, and yet be unable to execute any work of the kind we are considering, because it necessitates drawing backwards, or the reverse way it will appear when printed. This may be obviated in two ways first, by drawing in pencil on tracing or other thin paper the lettering or design required then paste the paper face down upon the wood, when the
often are, cut
may be
list
published
gained by the following, taken from a of small founts for amateurs Non:
itself
The
out-
maybe
lb.
;
Long Primer,
Great Primer,
lb.
is.
4d. per
lb.,
and so
would
be,
perhaps, 25 per cent, less job founts and fancy letters double these prices, as the demand is much less in weight for these, and the manufacturers' outlay for
original matrices to cast the type in
is
in the
Wide
may be
recessed by boring a
the chisel.
number
so
much
the
greater in
proportion.
Above
in
10-line
(pica lines),
letter is generally
is
made
formed on a
with the saw.
strip
and clearing away with they may be of wood, and afterwards divided
other plan
is
often
made
as small as 4-line.
The
best wood-letter
well seasoned,
The
to procure
is
cut on
If the ink
a freshly has
wood.
warp and split up into cracks from the action of the ley and other alkalies
side-grain, but these are apt to
NOTES ON NO VELTIES.
substance, such as the handle of a tooth-brush, a glass
bottle, or other
189
convenient
article.
The
work by.
is
If cut
it
All
wood
letter is best
put away on
in use.
A very simple and efficient substitute for letter cut out of wood may be made by cutting the letter out of
some
high.
thin substance,
in, and this may be filed up on the mounted on wood, to be used with the regular letter. Amateurs who desire to make smaller type than could conveniently be cut out by any of the methods described, may resort to making some in moulds of various materials. Plaster letters may be cast in plaster moulds taken from other metal types. The modes of dealing with material have been so
pages of
Amateur Work,
it
and then
affixing
it
to a solid
that
we have no need
oil,
to introduce
One
is
steeped in linseed
air,
here, only to add must be well dried and baked, and allowed to dry slowly in the
to
homo-
be
sufficiently tenacious
geneous
in substance,
comparatively
elastic,
Only plain letters, can be made this way, but large letters are the very things required by this kind of material. No backward drawing is required, as the sketches may be made on the material itself, which is afterwards affixed in such a way, that the reverse side is upwards. Any pattern that may exist on the cloth must be filed or rubbed off with pumice-stone, and the side which will form the printing side made quite smooth. The letter may then be cut out in the same way as directed for cutting on wood. Glue may be used to fix on the letter to the wood but if so, a little bichromate of potash must be put in the glue, to prevent water readily softening it when
cut or manipulate.
fine lines,
;
Perhaps the most satisfactory of all the materials purpose is that compound of sulphur known as " Spence's Metal." It is tolerably tough, very cheap about three shillings per pound. It may be poured into an article to form the mould, and when cold, heated Spence's Metal may be poured into it without danger if not overheated. These casts will all allow of the amateur exercising his ingenuity and although not so good and durable as regular materials, will
for this
;
enable
many who
own
The
is
india-
rubber dissolved
in
naphtha, which
now
easily pro-
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
cured at gutta-percha boot-shops. If difficulty is experienced in procuring it, it maybe made by getting some black bottle-rubber (not. vulcanized sheet or old rubber articles), and cutting it up into shreds put
;
MONG the
have
Messrs.
the
public,
and pour over it some wood naphtha, enough just to cover it. Shake occasionally every hour or so, when it will gradually soften, and become a thick viscid mass. This may be smeared on the back of the thin letters, a board laid on them to keep flat, and left a day or two to harden. If india-rubber solution cannot be obtained, take a little shellac, and pour a similar quantity of naphtha on it treat in the
into a bottle,
;
Thomas De
la
Row, London, E.C., have recently produced one that is likely to come very generally into
use,
and
it
to
render
desirable for
all
them
like
to carry a
pen
is
in the pocket, as
well as by
who
a pen that
provided with a
dipping the pen into the ink bottle. The pen now under is called " The Anti-Stylograph," being a self-feeding
carrying
a
same way
till it is
as thick as cream, or a
is
little
thinner;
reservoir penholder,
and
though not so tenacious as the rubber. If the floorcloth is not obtainable, cardboard may be used, mounted on wood, as previously described. In this case a few coats of thin shellac varnish over the entire face of the letter would preserve it against the combined effect of oily inks and sharp alkalies for a long time. If the amateur possess any regular letters, and is short of any particular letters, or, in printer's language, is " out of sorts," he may duplicate the letter by a process of stereotyping.
way by means of a small and hardly The penholder itself, constructed on Hearson's Patent, Messrs. Thomas De la Rue and Co. being the sole licensees, is made apparently of vulcanite, in
the ink
makes
its
perceptible
hole.
two
sizes, 4-J
for the desk, the former being sold at 2s. 6d. each,
latter at 3s. 6d.
and the
The
pen,
when
not in use,
is
protected by
may be made in
plaster of Paris,
some
is taken off and placed on the other end when owner wishes to write with it. The pens, which are veritable nibs, and which perform their peculiar function with ease and freedom, provided that the penholder is properly charged, and the directions for use carefully
a cap, which
its
rgo
followed,
are
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
renewable
at
pleasure,
in
boxes
at is. per
box
preferred.
not possible
This
is
and other professional sources. Among the numerous articles that will prove useful to amateurs are brief papers on " Amateur Gilt Frame-making," " Carving Fret-work," and
"A
ton,
The
3,
No.
I,
fine;
No.
2,
medium; No.
is
Mr. Thomas Fletcher, of Warringfor some pertinent remarks on " Gas as a Workshop Tool." Among the recipes, of which
Lesson
is
in Filing."
laid
under contribution
fitted
with a nib,
sent
out
in
many
companied by a glass
the merit of being
filler, at
1
named, or
joiners"
in leather-covered boxes at
s.
simple in construction,
may be quoted as a sample "If you have a very hard oilstone, with scarcely any 'grip' in it, apply a small pinch of flour-emery with the oil the effect is almost
;
easily
magical.
of the best
cleaned
when
requisite.
its
Turkey
in fact,
this
to year for
It is
do not think that any one who uses it will fail to find it a most desirable pocket companion, or addendum to the writing apparatus on his desk. Messrs. D. H. Cussons and Co., of 79, Bold Street,
for its use,
contains.
much
to say that in
every page of
something useful
fail
to
Liverpool,
for
and Stockport, send a handy little vade mecum amateur photographers, entitled, " The Photographer's Pocket Almanac and Reminder," size 5 in. by 3 in., numIt is peculiarly useful
peculiar bent.
My
remember
of this Magazine
Book
for
Art Metal
and valuin
full
furnishes, in a
all
description
of
recent
inventions and
was sent by Mr. A. Fischer, II, St. Bride Street, London, E.C. Since my comments appeared I have received from the same publisher a specimen
first
Workers," the
list
of their
officers, in
"Art Workman,"
price
month
memoranda.
It
is
illustrated
consisting of an instantaneous
view on the Mersey, photographed on a Liverpool dry plate with the Liverpool instantaneous shutter and lens. The
photograph is wonderfully clear and distinct, and when examined through a magnifying glass, the details of the vessels at anchor and the steamboats in motion become
apparent, which, from their smallness, are not noticeable
That a costly production like this should have entered upon its sixth series bears stronger witness in favour of its importance and utility than any words of mine could do, and I will, therefore, content myself with describing the contents of the part which now lies before me. Its size is 15J inches by 11J inches; this will give some idea of the dimensions of the plates, of which there are seven, accom6d.
the subject-matter
art
when
sories
the picture
list
affording a
viewed with the naked eye. Besides of photographic appliances and studio accesis
some additional
The
to
subsidiary "
memoranda culled from various sources. title of " The Art Workman " proclaims it
and apparatus supplied by themselves, Messrs. D. H. Cussons and Co.'s Almanac also contains reminders of the
for
lists
of mounts,
is
Monthly Journal of Design for the Artist, and Manufacturer, edited by L. Eisenlohr and C. Weigle," and that it is precisely what it claims to be, and that its scope is wide enough to embrace art work of every
be
Artificer,
frames,
Among
other useful
for
information
Messrs.
kind,
is
proved when
with
I say
exhibit
beautiful
iron
work, a
surface
cabinet
marquetry
in
relief,
ornaments
for
monochrome, water-colour, or oils. Amateur photographers who are about to fit up a studio, such as that which has been described and delineated by Mr. Parkinson, will find this Almanac an unerring guide to everything they can want or wish for in the way of photographer's upholstery.
lockets,
and an
example, in colours, of the border of a woven fabric of 1440, preserved in the Museum on the Michaelsberg at Bromberg.
This pattern, which
portion of
tion
it
is
remarkable
for the
Street,
Abel Hey wood and Son, 56 and 58, Oldham The Engineer and Building Trades Almanack and Artizans' Year-Book, 1S83," 8| in. by 5I in., 80 pages, price 6d. In this a " Review of the Science of
Messrs.
curves,
is
contains,
composed,
in repetition,
1882 "
is
and
this portion
commencement to its finish. The colouring, though somewhat quaint, is as good The reproas the design, and in perfect harmony with it.
exhibited in
its
entirety from
its
followed in
its
duction of
it
fails
tion
on a variety of
the
idea, of a
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
from a woven fabric
work, the
in
191
And
am
interfacings
are of the
The
by 41
inquiries lately
when looked
lost
at close to the
regard to
same way of thinking in this matter as myself. made by amateur poultry keepers with incubators have brought two pamphlets, size 7J in.
Conrad, Phelps,
the eye
is
increased.
this
because,
&
Co.,
London,
E.C.
One
of these
to
;
is is
entitled
"
Artificial
Egg Hatching
is
for Profit,"
which
workman than
for the
to the amateur,
it is
worth
for
the other
the
money asked
new
author of
"Farm
Poultry" and
appear in
this
Magazine, accomif
need be,
in
Mr. G. L. Hillier. Much useful advice on poultry keeping and poultry hatching may be gathered from the books, which deserve to be far better illustrated than they are.
Messrs. R.
Melhuish
&
Son, 85
and
87,
Fetter Lane,
From Mr. John Mangnall, 17, have received what I may term a
of water and other fluids that
pipes.
I cannot
Piccadilly, Manchester, I
fly-leaf,
with regard to a
London, E.C., have just issued a new catalogue for professional workmen and amateurs, enumerating the various planes, saws, and tools that they keep in stock
Holbom
Circus,
may be substituted for lead do better than give this fly-leaf in extenso, for if the material is what it is stated to be, it cannot be too widely known, or too generally used in the interest of health
and
sanitation.
It
coach-makers, carriage and waggon-builders, millwrights, engineers, plumbers, jewellers, metal-workers, etc.
The
cata-
runs
thus:
"Many
is
logue
is fully
illustrated
natural
waters
it
is
it
One
that
it
is
a retail cata-
known
as
'
lead-
it
is
absolutely necessary.
is
This,
most desirable as
far as
the amateur
concerned, as his
What
nature
The same
cumstances,
is
and priced in various catalogues issued by dealers, and I find on examination and comparison that Messrs. Melhuish's prices rule low, and thus offer an
advantage to the amateur buyer.
and equally
vapours,
resists
etc.
the action of
weak
it
acids,
ammoniacal
This
may
salts,
manufacturers,
Brothers,
lathes
Goldielands, Settle,
spirit
replaces the
more
ex-
tendency;
and
in
Sanitary Engineering
it
is
especially
cor-
their list at low " Eclipse" Hand Machine for fret-sawing, which is supplied at 15s., and is useful in so far that it may be screwed up by means of a thumbscrew to any table, thus dispensing with a stand, and occupy-
on
figures.
Among
notice the
ing but
little
in use.
A drilling
apparatus
is
and dangerous character." I have no doubt that Mr. Mangnall will readily answer any inquiries as to the cost of his pipes. I am sorry that he
did not send
Messrs.
Harger
Brothers
every
to
tooth of which
saw blade
me
is
it
in
my
run true.
power
what
to say
something on
When-
These are supplied, Nos. 00 to 4, at 5d. per dozen, Nos. 5 to 7 at 6d., and No. 8 at 7d., a reduction of id.
if
ever an article
is
a gross of blades
is
taken.
said about
is
on every
Surgical
Mechanist,
of
Chard,
Artificial
who may
"Illustrated
etc.,
Prospectus
together with
I argue that it is only reasonable to say everything that can be said with regard to size, weight, if need be, appearance, and price. Many books remain unbought by those who
Remarkable
read notices of them because the size and price are not notified.
We
all
know
that this
is
it
most curious and instructive, showing how natural defects and losses of limbs, etc., may be remedied by mechanical contrivances ; how, indeed, persons may be enabled to write who have no hands or fingers, and to
The book
is
may check
have hesitated and never shall hesitate, to give publicity to what I believe to be a good thing on this account. The notice is sowing, the adpart, I never
tising columns.
For
my
walk without legs or feet. All who require to lie at full length, or in any peculiar position, should see Mr. Gillingham's Combined Couch, "The Universal," vihich, to use
his
own
description, "
for
makes 40
is
positions,
500 graduations,
its
vertisement
article
sale, I
is
watering, and
if
the
owner or
seller of the
can be used
50 purposes, and
does not care to do his part towards fructification by do not see what reason that is for me not to do mine.
"Spine
or
192
useful.
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
Those who are
interested, in
warming greenhouses,
Heat
Generator,*'
for supply-
instrument
itself
and
dimensions.
The bed
Gillingham's
" Patent
Radiating
which are
may
the
Hot Water
has
be screwed
down
to
a table or counter
is
if
desired
The
to
inventor
of
these
useful
appliances
I7lbs., is sufficient to
Patent
Laws,
keep
it
all practical
purposes.
its
The
which tend
greatest
foster, protect,
and encourage
is
it.
The
a
art of printing
which
is
it
who do
not require
its
aid in
attached,
12 inches.
is
The bed
some time
or other.
Now,
for all
wish to do a
who way
12 inches by 7^ inches.
From
projec-
on either side springs a solid iron arch cast in one piece with the frame, and having a flange and socket in front,
in
shaft, to
is
attached.
printing machine of
American
origin has
The type (or block) from which an impression is to be taken, is, when properly locked up in its chase, placed in the rectangular recess for
its
been
"The
Garfield
which
is
4 inches by 3 inches in
The
inking rollers
Printing Press."
Having
of the
remembrance
not very long
the
the handle of
which
is
shown
in
front,
and by
ago,
on
pockets
of
British
type.
tin-
will
be noticed that
are
there
that
two
rollers
in-
in
front
being
sale
the
"Garfield
at the
Sewing Machine,"
remunerative
is.
behind
it
to distribute the
of
2d.,
was naturally
of
suspicious
anything
honour-
which
is
renewable when-
and
press.
felt,
e ver necessary.
name that this press bears, and examined it with more than usual care but having seen it worked I can only say that it is everything that it is represented to be, and honestly worth the money that is asked for it, namely,
able
;
A piece
is
of thin cloth or
2
is
os.
itself,
but as a press
American
bend upwards and lap over the sides of the platen, against which they are retained by a metal frame, which draws the paper as tight as a drum. When the type is in place and duly inked, and the material on which the
allow
sides to
impression
is
to
be taken
is
placed over
it,
is
with divisions for the type, for an additional sum of 1 5s. Printing can be done with the utmost ease and facility in black and coloured inks, and in gold and silver, and the
down
work
taken
is
may be
as well to
is
add
at
and
silver at
exceedingly easy.
more than half that rate. The press may be seen in operation at 20, Thorburn Square, London, S.E., the show rooms and house of business of Messrs. Charles Wilson and
rather
rollers,
Co., agents
in
the United
Kingdom
for
this
press,
the of
"Garfield
Stylographic
origin
Pen," and
manufacture,
other
specialities
which is supplied with each machine, is placed on the slab. This is carried over the type, and the impression in gold size is taken in the ordinary way. When
been done, a piece of ordinary cotton wadding
bronze powder, also
supplied
size,
is
American
cards.
and
including
Christmas
this has
dipped in gold
accurate representation of the press
illustration,
is
with
the
An
given in the
accompanying
for the benefit
and
it
will
my
readers, to give
machine, and drawn lightly over the powder adheres. Printing in silver is the same manner.
to
which the
effected in precisely
"
AMATEURS IN
AMATEURS
IN COUNCIL.
COUNCIL.
193
K,. W. K (Heme Hill). See reply to New Subscriber in pige 144, Part 14. A. G. B. (Canning Tou'n). Your specification will do very well, but it is not necessary to have two 4-feet stops on the great organ. A3 regards other requirements, follow the instructions given in the present
fThe Editor reserves to himself the rieht or refnsirirarep'y to anv question that may be frivolous or inappropriate, or devoid of general interest. Correspondents are requested to bear in mind that their queries will be answered only in the pages of The Magazine. The information Slight being' supplied for the benefit of its readers generally as well as for those who have a special interest in obtaining it. In no case can any reply be sent by post,]
ERRATA.
on " The Dulcimer: how to 123, Fig". 5, there were inadvertently marked two holes as sound holes. The only holes in the hack are for
In the
article
Engine, with Crossley's blowing apparatus. Half or one-horse power is sufficient. Cost of using depends upon the price of water or gas in the district in which you live. As a rule, the ga^ is cheapest to woik. J. H. {Clifton) .The cost of the two manuals depends very much on what you are charged for materials. It would be about 12, exclusive of the case, pipes, and keyboards. Of course this is if you make
it
number.
F. F. (Bristol). The sound-board, 36 in. 12 in., might accommodate two stops, viz., Open Diapason with stopt bass, and a 4- foot Flute but a larger sound-board would
by
yourself.
make
The paper
pipes are
my own
invention,
it,"
page
the legs of the iron bridge to pass through, the /-shaped hole in the belly being for sound. '* Fret -sawing Machine " (^heet Suppleto Part 14^. Mr. Dicksoic S. Lakfb points out that the lowest mortise-hole (fifth from top) in Fie. 1 (backbone of machine) should have been drawn f inch the fourth mortise-hole, instead of that distance below it, as shown in drawing. He says : This does not interfere with the working of the machine, only longer saw3 must be used. Eeaders can easily make this correction in the Supplement for themselves.
and cannot, so far as I know.be purchased. My time is too fully occupied to allow of my making any for sale, but perhaps some enterprising amateur may think it worth his while to do so.
J. B. [Tune BocTc). The Flageolet is made the same as the Flute, the 2-foot pipe standing on the CC channel. The Keraulophon can be made with the ordinary mouth, or with an inverted mouth,
ment
answer better. H. A. P. (Glasgow). You could get the small 2-manual in the height you mention by planting several of the pipes of the soundboards, and by mitreing or doubling some of those that stand on it. 2. Yes; but the 4-feet and 2-feet stops run still smaller, as you will see by the
table in Part 12
3.
which you
like.
4.
to
The languids should all be nicked, otherwise you cannot regulate the tones so that all the pipps of each stop are similar in quality. Ton will find that the nicking enables the pipe to be blown harder without it overblowing.
C. T. (Chester).1. The different expressions can onlybeobtainedbyhavingaswell. This will be described in due course. 2. Five stops are the utmost that con properly be supplied with wind at the same time
your room
5.
The Open Diapasons and all of the other open stops, if made of wood, are tuned by thet in lids if made of paper, then by the sliding piece described. The Flute
;
Diagrams
Organ Building.
Pedal
(Ecc'e*)
cannot understand
how
will be published giving sections, designs, etc. See Supplement with this Part.
pushing in the taper bit when making the holes in the caps of the Keraulophon pipes can cause the holes to diminish in size as the pipes get smaller. I will endeavour to explain. Suppose a bit tapering rieht off to a point is i inch thick at a distance of 2 inches from the point, it follows that if a hole is bored through the side of a pipe 2 inches in diameter and the bit is pushed through till the point just touches the opposite side, the hole made in the first side would be 4 inch diameter. If, however, the pipe was only 1 inch in diameter, the bit would of course only be pushed in an inch and the diameter of the hole it would make would only he about half what it is in the former case. Does this explanation make it clear t> "Pedal"? I am glad you have been successful with the paper Eeed pipes would be best purpipes. chased, but a Trumpet stop is quite out of place in a small chamber organ, as it is very load.. A soft Oboe or Clarionet would be the best to select. E. Beamaix (Liverpool). Scales for fancy stops will be given later on.
with a foot blower. 3. You can have two feeders if you like. 4. There is a distinct stop called the
exactly the same as the Open Diapason, but is two or three scales smaller and voiced softer. It is not
Principal.
It is
F. S. T. (Hollow ay). The mode of setting out the scales has been described in the articles and in the " Amateurs in Council
scale
made
if
you have a
and
6
about the best for general use. Piccolo is the same scale as the Flageolet, but made with the ordinary mouth. The Flageolet is not quite so squeaky.
to the diameter of the largest pipe, if it is 4 feet long, and draw the sloping line down to the point, and all the other cross lines will be correct if measured to where they touch the sloping line. For a 2-foot stop you would alter the diameter at the 2-foot
line,
The
and proceed
as before.
Keraulophon. 1. The
pipes
with in-
The scales will do very Complete your wood Stopt Diapason and use tbem instead of the and paper, but allow the slider on which they stand to be a little wider than is given in
H.
S. (Alfreton).
well.
Claribella,
the specification.
The Gemshom is the same diameter at the mouth as the Flute, therefore the measurement is taken on the top of the
block.
SCBSCEIBER FEOH THE FlEST. The voicing will be dealt with in the chapter on Tuning;; it would take too much space to
describe in this part of " Ours." Tour pipes being affected by eich stroke of the bellows shows that either the bellows or the wind trunk is too 9m* 11, or that they are not supplied with sufficient wind from some other
cause.
The Bourdon is 8 feet long, or thereabouts, for CCC, each pipe in that octave being 4 inches shorter than the next lowest those in the next octave are semitone 2 inches shorter than the next lowest semitones. I think you would find the brown
;
verted upper lips should have ears the same as ordinary pipes, and in the smaller ones the linen band is brought round so as to cover the openiug which would otherwise exist, owing to the chamfer being turned to the inside of the pipe. 2. It is obvious that while a pipe is on the mandrel you cannot make another one on it, so while that is drying go on with others on different sized mandrels. "When they are dry you can then make the other stops on the same mandrels. This should scarcely need an explanation. 3. The paper is stretched over the cork side of the block, as it gives a softer surface
for
working with.
4. Full compass pedals could of course be added, but they lire not often placed on so small an instrument, as they of course increase the bulk of it.
To A. Z. I am
pipes answer. pressure as you like to put on them if yon voice them and cut the months accordingly. I should be glad if 30a could forward to
As regards the compasses, I presume you mean proportional compasses. They can
be obtained at most mathematical instrument maker's. If you cannot get them, writ to Stanley, Great Turnstile, Holhorn, or to Archbutt, Westminster Bridge Road, London. If you want them for organ work you will find the line of polygons on a sector will answer the same purpose, and you can
Lex (Kilkenny). 1. The compass of the small two manual, scheme 3 in page 21, Vol. II., is, Open Diapason, Tenor C to G Bass CC to B. Swell, Tenor in altissimo.
C
to
2.
G in alt.
The Flute and Flageolet are made
me, through the Editor, aprinted list from the makers of the pipes you mention. Organ- Blowing Engines. J. H. Mack. Joy's Hydraulic Engine, or an Otto Gas
low mouth,
at the foot.
3.
softer in tone by reason of the small scale, fine nicking, and small opening
if
you
194
make the sound-board
put
4.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
large enough,
sliders.
and
113.
Papyrotiles.
in one or
two spare
The
E.
possible
easiest swell to
make
is
to enclose
the pipes in a box, and have the top to open like an ordinary box lid by pressing a lever with the foot or the knee. This is, however, only a makeshift swell, but is better than none. Venetian and gridiron swells will be described in due course. T. H. (Gaisford Strict). You need not cut any nicks in the stopt pipes for the small organ described in Vol. I. I however prefer to have them nicked. Hard wool is best for the grooving board, but good sound pine will do very well. As regards the sound-board, I quite agree with what you say. The only way to get good wood is to go to the timber yard and select it for yourself, firmly declining to accept any that is unseasoned, knotty, or in any way unsuitable. Buy as inuch as you can at a time. Plane it up, and then keep it in a dry, warm room as long as possible before using it. Lei. 1. The groovings in the grooving board of the small organ described in Vol. I. would not be the same for tbe design shown opposite page 220, but would be made on tbe same method. Bore the holes through over the proper channels and run grooves to where the pipes are to stand. What can be more simple. See article on Sound-boards in present serieB. Roller-boards will be described in due
course.
of the b'iss channels not as you suppose, but is alternate, viz., CC at bass end, and CC s. at treble end, DD at bass end, s. at treble end, and so on. See bottom of first column of page 116, Vol. I. Careful reading of the articles would save many queries. The sound-board could just as well be made with all the channels in regular order
is
only at 14, Holborn Viaduct, B.C. They may be purchased in small quantities at the
make Mackintosh
W.
G.
Mr.
wants to know how to make oilskin for cloaks, the writer of this reply can tell him how to do it.
Paraffin as a Preservative for Eggs. Q. Paraffin is not a substance emitting a disagreeable smell, as some persons suppose. Pure paraffin is without any taste or scent, and migbt be used as a preservative for eggs. Sling the eggs in a thread cage or basket, and dip them quickly in a bath of melted pure paraffin. The thin film thus put on will entirely exclude air.
The designer of the BacheSideboard is pleased to find the actual working out successful, and thinks the adaptation of locker with desk and pigeonholes, the front falling with joints to hold it level, might be an additional feature in its use to some readers.
lor's
of Covering Floors. The " Manila-paper" is so named from the Manila-hemp (musa tejetilis), which furnishes a strong fibre, suited for the manufacture of cables, etc. We know of no reason why any other thick paper, made from a coarse and strong, and therefore enduring, material, shouldjnot answer the purpose recommended at p. 42, Vol. II., as well as that made of ManilaC. F. A. {Newport).
New Mode
F.
be-
and otber soaps beside common soap, will make a lather. If F. M. will let me know precisely what he requires, and the use he will make of it, I will try to assist him.
side soap,
fibre.
The arrangement
DD
M. H. (Mellefont).With the exception that the terra cotta must be "sized," in order to more or less counteract its porosity, painting in oil on it is identical with painting in oil on prepared canvas, and colours of the same kind answer for both purposes, At the same time it may be stated that water-colour is much more common than oil painting on terra cotta. In this case Chinese white is largely used, either as a first coat, where desirable, or, judiciously mixed with the paiut, as " body." Tbe painting, when finished, should be well varnished, and may subsequently be washed whenever, from dust, etc., it may get soiled.
Bronzing Brass Chandeliers. (Carlisle). Mr. Edwinson will give instructions for bronzing, etc., at some
A. H.
future time. It is not possible to describe the process fully in this p*rt of tbe Magazine, for it is one that requires care and special appliances, A preparation for bronzing metal is made by mixing one part each of oxide of iron and white arsenic with twelve parts of hydrochloric acid. The brass must be boiled in strong ley and scoured to remove any lacquer or grease that may be on it, and when dry brushed over with the solution. The metal must then be coated with varnish or clear lacquer.
if
desired,
Bench Hook.
The
is
be necessary.
t
Make
small article sketched by Half Jack well known amongst carpenters and
it is
and you will find it much more satisfactory, as each pipe could be
in the
new
joiners:
series,
called a
bench hook.
It cer-
tainly is a very
useful
addition to
any
made
own
channel.
Pianoforte Tuning.
W. Corban
Man).
[From a Pro.] Dynamo-Machine. Light. Some endeavour will be made to let some light in on this subject, when the
amateur's bench.
space can be spared for the purpose.
Instructions in re-stringiDg will shortly be given. It is unfortunately tbe case that when tuning and broking are carried on simultaneously, there is an inducement to a certain amount of " breaking," as a concomitant.
Painting in
E. D. C. Bd.
Oils.
Electro-Tinning.
A. T. C. S. (Dresden). If this correspondent can wait long enough, he will see some articles on " Electro-tinning," in
to give papers on this Bubject. The description of the dynamo machine is in hand.
will describe
the
Heating Workshops.
E. N. R.-Eitchie & Co.'s Lux Calor Gas Stoves are useful and safe appliances forlighting and heating, and therefore for drying the air and warming a damp workshop. They are made to burn gas or oil as may be desirable, and vary in price according to size and design, from 3 3s. to 8 Ss. Messrs. James Veitch & Son, the well-known nurserymen of King's Road, Chelsea, S.W., made trial of one of them iu a greenhouse facing north, and found that it was not only serviceable in creating and maintaining a high and equable temperature in 10 degrees of frost and a cold wind out of doors, but that it lighted the buildiog nicely, and was perfectly innoxious to vegetable life. The stoves may be seen in operation at Ritchie Suithin's Lam, B.C. & Co.'s, 33, St.
Th kta. Your
making
by
Painting on Porcelain.
q uestion
as to
colourfully
amateurs
has
been
requirements.
discussed. If you desire further information, please write again. The subject in the aspect regarded in the text, has been taken up in this series solely because the consideration which it received in one or two small works on china painting seemed to the writer unsatisfactory, and to a large extent misleading.
Dissolving Vnlcanite. Experimentalist. Rubber vulcanite cut into fine shreds may be dissolved to a
The liquid in boiling oil of turpentine. procesB requires special arrangements and
and is not unattended by danger, for the heat in any case must be 212 Fah., and may have to be over raised to 300 Fah.
precautions,
10.
one half
Polishing Oak.
Scaklrt Bean must work down the rough parts of the oak with coarse and then fine glass-paper rnb with rag moistened in linseed oil, and when this has dried polish up with uncoloured polish.
;
of the side panel, and f f, one quarter of the centre panel. In the sketch. Fig. 1 is by oversight drawn only twice instead of f.ur tims, and named as " half pane' instead of " quarter."
AMATEURS IN
Joining
COUNCIL.
Mounting Oleographs.
*95
Wood by
C. TV. C- (Pacfcaam).
(1)
W. H.
your inquiry as to how two pieces of wood are joined horizontally by a bolt and nut, you must first make ascarfedjointandthen biud the pieces together by two bolts and nuts passed through the overlapping ends
of the pieces.
T.W. (Kurrachee). The best wayof mounting large oleographs for framing is to make a frame about J inch larger every way than
the dimensions of the picture to be mounted. On this frame stretch a piece of thin canvas or calico. Damp the material before nailing it on, and when dry you will find it as tight as a drum-head. Damp the calico again and apply some good paste to the back of the oleograph. Then lay the picture on the calico and gently press the surface with a It will soft cloth to exclude air-bubbles. present a wrinkled appearance, but as the moisture evaporates from the calico and picture the wrinkles will disappear, and the latter will be as smooth and flat as you could wish. Mr. Brion, the writer of the articles on *' Relievo Maps," will shortly describe the process to be followed in mounting maps and pictures at length.
such a position by a bolt and nut in the direction of the pieces, or rather are never joined in this way in practice, although it is
do so with much trouble, which belabour lost. The annexed diagram will showyou howahorizontal piece of quartering may be joined to a perpendicular piece by a single bolt and nut. In the first place a hole of sufficient depth must be bored into the end of the horizontal piece and the wood cut away on one side and at the head so that the bolt maybe dropped into its place. The hole made should be a little less than the diameter of the bolt, so the latter may be driven into its place and held by the surrounding wood a3 tightly as possible. The opening *hat has been made must be neatly filled up. A sliding piece cut dove-tail shape will make the most secure and neatest job, when glaed in. Tne bolt is now
possible to
will
to Build an Aviary. T. D. (Bridlington Quay). Full instructions on this subject will be given in an early Part.
How
Paper Canoe.
building your paper canoe it will be better to damp the paper before laying it on. Instructions for making an improved Zoetrope must be deferred for the present, as I have so many papers on hand.
H.
S,
In
W.
Damp through
Tiles.
T. W.T. ( Lewisliam) .To prevent the damp from rising through the tiles that form the floor of your shed, take them up and relay
Damp
and your
Cheap Alembic, or
J. G-
M. (Dairy). Messrs.
Griffin
&
Co.,
Garrick Street, supply cheap stills for amateurs. Directions for making a cheap still
for distilling water were given in Part III.
of
Amatkuk Work,
of
in the third of
the
series
papers on
"Electro-plating at
JOINT BY BOLT AND NUT. and cannot be withdrawn from without, because the wood bedded against the inner part of the head prevents its egress. A hole is then bored through the perpendicular piece, through which the screw of the bolt is passed, a hole being sunt on the side opposite to that on which the 3crew enters, to admit of the entrance of a nut by which the pieces are brought tightly together. In the diagram the nut is shown
fixed,
Home," by Mr. Edwinson. Cutting Mounts for Pictures. H. M. C. T. (Blacliburn). I am sorry that
you have been disappointed in not receiving an earlier answer to your query but if my memory does not deceive me, I think it has Instructions on been already answered. cutting and preparing mounts will be given very shortly. Instructions for making a washing-standj have been given in Strong and Simple Home-made Furniture, by Mark
;
must be turned on against the wood. The hole is covered with a boss ornament. The proess3 may be reversed, the nut being let into the horizontal piece, and
partially turned on, it
Mallett.
until
it
fits
tightly
the bolt is then screwed into the nut until the head is brought into close contact with the hole cut in the perpendicular piece. (2) "The Amateur Mechanic's Workshop " is published by Trubner & Co., Ludgate Hill.
It3 price is 6s. (3) You had better clean your varnish brush in turpentine, and afterwards wash it in hot soap and water, rinsng it in clean warm water. Persons who are constantly using varnish keep their brushes plunged in varnish juat up to the binding. I know no other medium in which they can be kept. (*) Soak the hardened varnish brush
i
gatta percha scraps in bisulphide of carbon until a dark thick syrupy mass has been obtained. Keep this in a bottle stoppered with a glass stopper, tied securely down.
Use to cement leather to wood, or leather to other substances in damp situations; also to cement gutta percha surfaces.
:
Apply quickly with a stiff brush, and stopper the cement bottle again at once. The solvent soon evaporates and leaves a thin film of gutta percha between the joints.
Dale's Granule Battery. Elkctrified Lawyer. An illustrated description of this battery, and also of a modified form of the same, is now in th^ Editor's hands. Youexpect too much from the battery, and have submitted it to a severe test with unimalgamated zincs. No wonder you experienced an abominable stench How could you expect otherwise when you exposed unamalgamated zinc to the action of hydrochloric acid? Under such conditions the evolution of hydrogen alone would be unbearable, and when this was combined with some fiee chlorine gas, then, faugh, the stench must have been very disagreeable. Don't repeat the mistake, but always use amalgamated zincs, and keep from J oz. to oz, of inercuryin the bottom of the porous cell with the zinc. Throw away the inner solution, make up some fresh solution, clean the zincs, well amalgamate them, try again and report results. Respectiug your other query, allow me first to use a Cornishman's and Yankee's privilege in answeringyour questions by asking some of you. Would you tender advice to a client until you heard all the facts of his case ? Would you advise him to undertake a suit unless you first knew whether he was
Brown Cement.
J.T.F. (Brixton). The cement described in reply to J. B. would be brown and waterproof.
able to carry it out or not ? I thiok not, and I am placed in a similar position with you, for I do not know your abilities as a mechanic, and therefore cannot advise you to forsake the law for mechanics. My experience of life leads me to observe that
it is
in turpentine, or try the effect of Eendle's ' Electric Paint Remover," as a softener.
ment which
Dissolving India Rubber.
to stick to that employhim in most bread and cheese, providing always that it is a
best for a
man
will bring
Self-Acting Fountain. H. S. writes: I wish to say that I have bought a Self-Acting Fountain by Rushton, as advertised, or rather mentioned, in Amatmte. Work a little time back, and am very pleased with it. It is all the maker said of it, and I consider it very ch?ao.
X. Q. Z. The best solvents for Indiarubber are bisulphide of carbon and chloroform. Next them come benzole (not benzoline or benzine), mineral naphtha, and spirits or oil of turpentine, but the last require heas and pure cut rubber to operate
with.
honestand honourable employment. If you wish to improve your education in the direction of electrical science, you will do
W. N. Tiddy, Esq., Secretary to the School of Telegraphy and Electrical Engiueering, 12, Princes Street, Haaover
well to consult
?q'iare,
W.
1 I
196
Silvering Glass. Chas. Johnson. In the chemical process for silvering glass, pure silver is deposited on the glass from a strong solution of nitrate of silver, hy adding to this solution (when floated on the glass) a solution of sugar and
other organic matter. The nitrate of silver can he purchased from auy chemist, from twopence to threepence per pennyweight.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL,
Electric Clock. I will give my attention to T.J. O. the subject and prepare the information required by you. I shall have to make some drawings to render all clear and the article complete, this will take up some time, but the work shall not be delayed more than will be found necessary to execute them. You are thanked for your kindly interest in A mateur Work, and your efforts to increase Electric Bells.
Consuming Smoke.
H. L. (Newcastle-on-Tyne). In reply to your enquiry how to cousume the smoke from a Star Boiler, there would be very
J.
little
it
R. L. O. B. Figure 4 in the last column of the Morse Telegraph Code on page 74 r is not correctly printed. The signal should be made with four short strokes and one long stroke, and should have been printed thus, 4 Readers can easily correct the mistake by putting in tbe dot with a pen, as I have done in my copy. Thanks for calling attention to the error.
.
. . .
its circulation.
or none.
would coke in burning, and the fresh supply in the hopper would not fall, so the fire would go out but small lumps of coke, with just a little coal to start the fire, and
;
pan.
Electro-Magnetic Machine.
J. T. This will be described in the articles on Dynamo -Electric Machines
shortly to be prepared. "Without abetter description of your machine is forthcoming than that contained in your letter, I fear that t cannot assist you in putting it in glad to hear of your success order.
Iu this hang a strip of pure gold suspended to a platinum wire, and also suspend anotherplatinum wire in the solution. Connect this last to the zinc of a battery, and the wire from the gold to the copper of a battery. Pass a current until a piece of German silver will gild when held to the platinum wire, and keep up the heat to 150 Fahr. whilst working the solution.
columns.
Matches that Light only on the Box. N. A. R. The process for making those
matches
is one outside the province of the amateur. I have known it attempted, but never with success.
Am
Electro-Magnet.
full effect to be obtained from electro -magnets wound with a given size of wire is not well known, but the following hints may be of some service to you in developing the full power in yours. Suppose we take your No. 22 silk-covered wire and wind it on your inch magnet. Let me tell you, in passing, that the wire should be wound on a thin wood bobbin or on shellac baked on thelegs.of the magnet, and it must be wound as directed for bell magnets on page 323, or on page t95, Vol. I. "With two cells of a battery and three layers of wire on each leg
with electric
C. F.
bells.
"W. S.
Brown. Tbe
J.
is
touched upon on Page 168, Vol. I. The back when struck ought to yield a note higher than the belly, the difference being just a tone. The passage in Savart saying they ought to sound in unison is an error which has misled many.
"W. E. L. {Crosby}. Your idea of making a fiddle of gutta percha is, 1 should think, sufficiently argued against on p. 505, Vol. I.
J.
Soldering Mixture. H. "W". (Galley Gate, York), writes: forward a recipe, which I recommend to all who intend soldering. I have used it for years, and I can always get my solder to run well. Four oz. spirits of salts costs 2d.; 1 oz. of rock sal-ammoniac costs 2d. Put the two in a jar, as a bottle is liable to break, and then add zinc clippings until it
J.
ceases to boil.
Photography.
Gate, TorTc) writes :very pleased to see papers on dry plates n Photography, and I advise every amateur to get "The Yepr-Book on Photography," by Piper and Carter.
J.
H.
"W. {Galley
am
aud 345 to 348, Vol. I you will see that your query is made without a knowledge of the
,
actual processes. The colour of a violin is in the varnish, not on the wood. You complain that you cannot size without sending 120 miles for materials. Your only remedy is to come and live nearer unto them that
sell.
pounds through an inch, put on more layers and it will lift a heavier weight through more space increase the number of layers until the magnet appears to have lost strength, then add another cell to the battery, or two more cells, and you will have a powerful magnet. There will be no advantage in winding the wire on the bend of tbe magnet, but pile it up in even layers on the legs of it as much as you like.
of the magnet,
it lifte,
say, 2
INFORMATION SOUGHT.
Metal Tubes for Colours. F. V. R (Witham) writes : "Will you kindly tell me where I can get empty metal tubes, similar to those into which oil colour* are put for painting in oils. Music Engravers' Tools. E. R. S. (Portland Place) writes : I am anxious to find out where I can buy music engravers' tools, and the plates (zinc or pewter, or some such metal) on which they engrave.
EnthusiastYou will find your queries answered and your suggestions carried out in the present and forthcoming chapters. Violin. I do not think the carved headed Steiners the best. Tbeyare seldom genuine, the Albani, Klotz, Statelmann, and Withalm's all imitated him most, faithfully, and their instruments are often sold for his. The ca rved head is no more a guaraut ee tb at the fiddle is by Steiner, than a coronet on a cab proves that the occupant is a duke. Steiners at their zenith, i.e., about 1800, were worth from 60 to 150 40 is now a long price for the best. The older and better seasoned a sound-post is, the better it is, provided it has not warped or contracted so as to be too short, a circumstance which can only be detected by the failing of the tone, vide page 210, Vol. I. J. F. M. ( Carlisle). I do not know of any good violins going cheap. I am not a dealer. Goto Mr. Hill, of "W ardour Street, or some other trader, if you want an instrument. I cannot be worried by such matters.
;
Electro-Plating.
letter did not reach me in time to allow of a reply appearing in the January part. A nickel plated bicycle
J. "M. L.
Your
Anemometers.
B. V. writes : I should be glad of some information on anemometers. I think if someone would give some papers on " Meteorological Instruments," it would be acceptable to many of your subscribers.
copper solution. You and decide pay you to set up a own. I can furnish
must consult your own whether or not it will plating plant of your you with an estimate
of cost if you will give me the size of tbe largest article you are likely to plate ; but I
yoxi
can give
me
the address of a
tradesman able to supply miniature ornamental hinges, handles, locks, fastenings, etc., etc., in brass and white metal, for use in making such small things as pipe racks of different patterns, and many other little
things.
ventilated workshop.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL,
Waterproofing- Uppers of Boots. E-Co>"STAm.E writes: Being one of "the numerous subscribers to your valuable journal, and iu common with, many of a like profession, viz., that of police constables, luuch exposed to the inclemency of the weather, I write to ask if you
197
Cork Cutting. H. asks for the names of tools used,
directions, for cork cutting.
etc.
tell
Pou
J.
me, through the medium of Amateur Work, how to enamel old tea canisters, or rather, re-enamel tbeni, black with a gold stripe, about an inch wide top and bottom ? Also, if you can, in an early number, tive me (and, do doubt, many others) the benefit of a design, simple but neat, for counter and fittings, suitahle for a grocer's shop, such as an amateur who has got about all his knowledge of tools from your admirable work, *' Every Man His
and
Daylight Reflector.
: I should he glad if auy of your numerous readers, or clever contributors, could suggest an inexpensive mode of making a daylight reflector to he suspended outside a window.
Plates for Anastatic Ink Process. Etcb>r asks : Will any reader kindly explain, through Amateuu Work, the process by which the zinc plates are prepared for printing by the Anastatic Ink Process ? Beviver for Gilt Frames. H. E. L. P. {Kitlineij) a?ks: How can I clean picture frames, both in English oil gilding and in Florence water ditto ? I had a bottle which did the former perfectly, hut have teen unable to get it, as the person who sold it in London has left. The address is no use, and though I tried at many druggists, I could not get " the Reviver." I do not know what can be done for the bright water gilding of Florence; can anyone tell me ? I have many picture frames in good condition, if I could freshen them up. The information would be useful to
W.
C. C. (Richmond) writes
obtain the following- information : viz., "How to procure a solution of india-rubber, which m<y be applied to the uppers of our boot-*, etc., so as to render them waterproof ; also, where to obtain the requisite ingredients? [Have you tried '"Millen's Snow and Wet Repeller, and Sole Protector," for soles and uppers sent, post free, f-T Is., by Humphrey Milieu, Fern Factory, .Little ilarlow, Bucks ? If you have not yet done so, and you put this preparation to the test, please report on it. Ed.]
;
is
benefiting
by
Amateur Work
I
am
only a
Truing- Grindstone.
Delta asks What is the best plan for truing the face of a grindstone which has p oecome worn and hollow in places ? Dia:
2 feet.
Working Machinery
Part- Ed.]
for
Amateurs "
poor man, who hopes to enter business as a grocer for myself at some future time, and having been very successful in making many articles from your designs in Amatkur Work, I thought I should like to try my hand at some fittings, if you could afford me space. [It is not an easy matter to supply suggestions and designs for shop fittings without a plan, of the shop itself. Send this, and you shall have help in the matter Ed
~|
Delta asks : Would it he possible for you to insert in your magazine, a paper, or
papers, on the subject of ballasting and canvassiog sea-going cutter yachts of a
Gold and Silver Frosting. H. L. {Hull) would he glad if any reader could inform him by what means gold and
silver are
many
readers.
made
INFORMATION SUPPLIED.
Pianoforte Tuning.
J.
moderate size (say, 5 to 10 tons) ? I don't want you to treat of sail-making, hut merely of draughting sails, and of proportioning the ballast and canvas to the size of the vessel, and to each other. I am sure this information would be useful to many of your yachting readers, who, like myself, cannot afford to get their sails draughted by a professional.
1
W.
C. (Brixton) writes:
have just
seen the
new part
of
amongst other things in it, the suggestion of your correspondent on " Pianoforte Tuning." I funcy he must be a happy Arcadian
in respect of being the unconscious possessor of some musical notions. It is well
ue
some more papers on " Model Engine Making," and the names of tome text-books on
mechanics' model engines principally ? also, the calculating point, such as finding horsepower, etc.
known
is
that
Writing
DeaTr.
Browning Guns.
Guf-baeeel asks
:
Will anyone
for
give
me
a good
guns?
recipe or formula
browning
wants to know how to make a fairly-good writing-desk, and the muterials necessary. I should be very
J. L. (Liverpool)
much
C. fAlfreton) writes
Silvering Mirrors. ;-I had heard of the cheap process of making mirrors some two years ago, hut could not obtain the particulars until I read them on page
W.
obliged if you could give me instructions to make one, say about 20 inches long, 14 inches broad, and 7 inches deep. I would like it to have three or four small
quite impossible that they can tune properly without some musical knowledge, though this may be of a strictly limited kind. This knowledge may be, and there is but little doubt is, as a rule, "picked up," or acquired without effort, just as knowledge is acquired of parts of many subjects, with other parts of which one's
studies are associated. Your correspondent is quite wr< ng in stating that tuning if by that he means practical tuning is solely a
drawers (one or two secret), a place for ink, pens, etc., also one for writing-paper, envelopes, etc.
476 of
quantities of
the desk to close with a secret catch instead of a lock and key.
;
Stringing Lawn Tennis Bats. E. P. H. (Surhiton) asks Could you give us a short article on " Stringing Lawn Tennii Bats?" I think it would be beneficial to the lawn tennu p'aying portion of the readers of Amati.uk Work. Also an article on putting up circular saws or firing them to a lathe. I have a saw, "but
:
matter of mechanical vibration. It is so, large'y, but essentially it is a matter of musical interval, and this is a relative matter. I should like to see the man who would say absolutely and correctly whether a given cbord when struck u giving 514 or Mr. a 5i2 vibrations in a second. practical tuner, has a musical knowledge of accuracy in intervals if not otherwise at all events, by association and by bearing intervals in played or Bung music; and for this he must 7iave an ear naturally or
,
adds: "I
on
convenient."
no otber part
hand.
of one.
[This subject
is
in
H. D. of a cement that will strongly join shells in making ornaments? also, what is the best
asks
:
H.
quires at
I
Ed.]
198
naments
for picture frames are usually of composition, and would "be obtainable at Messrs. Harwitz and Sorm, 58, City Road,
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
through with a three-corner saw file, and then giving the bottom a tap, knocking it clean off, and then grinding the edges with sand and water in the, wash-house sink.
In diseases of any kind, electricity alone will not cure, but electricity, water, diet, and rest will.
London.
[From a Pro.]
C.
W. W. (Battersea) writes In answer to Bric a Brac, I am willing to make him any article he requires, and also to give him an estimate of the cost, but he must bear in mind that he will not be able to get any article made by a joiner at the price he sees furniture offered for in shop windows. An article made by a good joiner will last for ages, which is more than can be said for cheap furniture.
;
Cutting
L. B.
Top
of
Chimney Lamp.
(Southampton) writes: Seeing that N. (Bishop's Castle) requires the name of some person to execute fretwork patterns for him, I beg to forward mine, and
E.M.
J.
H.
a piece of string around the chimney just where you want to cut it off. Draw a sharp file around the glass close to the string, so as to mark the glass with a deep scratch. Draw a red-hot iron around in the track of the scratch, or moisten the string with spirits of turpentine, and set it on fire. The sudden application of heat will make the glass crack in the line of the scratch. I have frequently cut tubes of annealed glass in a similar manner.
Tie
ground up in a thick solution of gum arabic. Red Inlc Moist water-colour of the required tint ground in a thick solution of
gum
arabic.
F.J. K. (Clapham Junction) writes:In answer to F. E. (Pimlico), asking how to make a cheap writing ink for tickets, if he
put gum arabic in common writing-ink(about 2 oz. to the half pint), and place it in the oven till dissolved, he will get a good ink that will dry quite glossy and bright. For coloured inks white gum must be used. To keep the ink good a few cloves should be added. I have used the above iuk for years, and always found it better than any I could buy.
E. F. E. B. (Oxford) writes: In answer to F. E., a very good permanent black ink
to powder a cake and rubbing it up to a thin paste with glycerine. "When mixed it may of Indian ink,
also a
rough piece of
of
fretting.
men
fret-cutting
fairly executed.
En.]
obtain the address of some person who will do some fret-saw work for him. I think that I could do some for him, if his terms are suitable.
Engraving on
Glass.
Politzer writes : The best tool for this purpose is the diamond spark tool, and which could be obtained about three years ago from G. Koberts, 30, Byford Street, Liverpool. The price would be about 3s., but I would suggest as being the easiest for an amateur, to use fluoric acid, a small bottle of which would cost Is. 6d., with instructions for use ; but I would add a caution in its use do not let it come in contact with your flesh, as the burn or wound from it is
:
very difficult to heal. "W. A. de B. (Finsbury Parle) writes In answer to Etching, may I be allowed to state that Townsend & Mercer's, 89, Bishopsgate Street Within, London, E.C., manufacturing chemists, sell bottles of some chemical, price Is. 6d., that engraves on glass, an ordinary pen only being wanted.
:
E. F. E. B. (Oxford) writes: Ln answer B the best way to crack glass lamp chimneys is to tie round the glass at the place at which it is wished to crack it a piece of thick knitting cotton, saturated with spirits of wine. Set this on fire, and hold the chimney on one side, so that the flame only heats that portion of the glass round which the cotton is tied. When the spirits of wine has nearly burnt out dip the glass suddenly into a basin of cold water, so that the level of the water comes up to the heated place. The cold water causes the glass to contract at the heated place, and, as it does not contract above the level of the water, a crack is made all round the glass, and the top easily breaks off. This plan generally succeeds beautifully, the glass cracking off as evenly as possible. I speak from experience, as I always crack my own lamp chimneys in this way. C. M. can get the bottom off the glass bottle in the same way, but it is not so easily done as the lamp chimney is. Knitting cotton is best, as it absorbs more of the spirits.
to L.
,
be diluted to the required strength with water. This makes a capital ink, jet black, and. very strong. The only objection to it is the long time it takes to dry. If, however, the writing is held in front of the fire, it very soon dries. It may be blotted in the ordinary way, but drying it before a, fire is best, as it does not remove any o
the ink.
Bleaching Coral.
Politzer writes Apply a mixture of hydrochloric acid (spirits of salts) and water, or wash the coral with a stiff brush in cold salt and water, with a little soap powder, a little chloride of lime will improve it, then put in the sun to dry and
:
bleach.
W.
G.
(Bristol),
him of the following method Suspend the mass to be cleansed, upside down, by means of a piece of wire, in a
to inform
full of water, so that the water boil for not than three hours, having previously put plenty of ordinary washing powder or
saucepan nearly
Phonograph.
Politzer writes I should advise the inquirer on this subject to purchase from Ward, Lock, & Co., for Is., the book, " All about the Telephone and Phonograph." As the making of a Phonograph involves the use of a lathe to turn up the cylinder and
:
less
2s.
6d.
I can
strongly
recommend
this
work. [This book has been noticed in " Notes and Novelties " Ed.]
L. writes In answer to J. H. M., there are only two books on the organ that I have been able to find out one by Hop:
:
and to cut a thread on same, which would be difficult for anyone unacquainted with the use of a lathe. If, however, after reading the book, he wishes to go on, I will give him instructions.
spindle,
kins,
have found washing it ia sea water, it in the sun to dry, to do well. If the coral is once touched with fresh water, I believe it will be hopeless work.
coral. I
and standing
Cutting
off
Bottoms of
Bottles.
C. M. (Willesden) may get the bottom off his bottle by pouring water in to the depth of half an inch, and then stand it on hob close to the fire, or put it in the oven when
think is the best, for it gives as much information on building as the other, and is much cheaper. All the books and papers on organ building are very defective on the most important point, namely, voicing.
Electricity as a
J.
Means
of Cure.
Road,
West
Tester
(83,
Livingstone
very hot, it will take the bottom off as clean as a whistle. "When I was a boy, and had the electrical mania very badly, I cut the bottoms off several bottles for a cylinder machine, electroscope, etc., by filing the outer face of the bottle
is
the latter
Brighton) writes: If Sufferer and Christian will write, I shall be pleased to give
application of
I shall be pleased at times to give readers of the journal advice respecting application of electricity.
E. A. E. B. writes: In answer to "W. J. I send you the following recipe for cleaning coral, from the "Boy's Own Paper," "Vol. IV., page 808. " The secret iu cleaning coral is to turn the mass bottom upwards and suspend it by means of a piece of wire in the saucepan, so that the dirt, as it boils off, may drop into the water, instead of down the septa." A stroug solution of ordinary washing soda, or better, oxalic acid, is to be used to boil it in. The mass iB to be boiled for at least three hours. This is not only to clean the coral but to
(Bristol),
bleach it also.
ARTISTIC MODELLING
ARTISTIC MODELLING AND SCULPTURE.
By 1U.EK MJ.LIETT.
199
AMATEUR
II.
Practice from the Cast and from the Flat Working from Life Modelling Busts and Medallions Sketching in Clay Ideal Sculpture, and Modelling Figures in the Round.
slate background, notwithstanding its advantages as not being liable to warp, is not good for working on in very low relief. Where the clay is very
thin
it is
hard to keep
it
it
in
ness,
slate.
will curl
RACTICE from
Flat.
tJie
Cast
and from
the
the patience of
Moreover, in very low relief, the modeller sometimes finds it necessary to dig a little into the background to increase the effect and if the background is slate this cannotbe done.
;
several studies,
on a large
feet,
For our purpose, the board, overlaid with a level background of clay, is superior. First, damping the
wood with a
its
sponge,
we
As
and
and
face,
from three-quarters
with
the serrated
straight-edge
It
till it is
tolerably level.
left
should
In
regular
art-training
this
then be
uncovered
it
may
which
nude
the
antique
subjects
statues
being
still
scraped
till
perfectly true.
of study.
If the
amacourse, he
made
2 feet high,
It
is
account in so doing.
higher.
by subthat
him a knowledge of
the
human
fail to
Royal Academy
is
and the
height
In
schools
of
art life-sized
above
the
minimum
casts of
allowed.
mired antique statues are always provided for the use of the FIG. 3.- BOARD FOR RELIEF MOULDING which of its aspects it will best student Our amateur, who will BACK VIEW. compose as a work in relief that probably have to work at home and alone, cannot provide himself with such cumbrous is to say, on which side will it best show its motive luxuries but small copies of most of the best figures and action its limbs form the most agreeable lines are to be bought at the plaster shops, for two or and no arm or leg stick straight out towards us, three shillings each, and these will serve his purpose. demanding foreshortening, which is a difficult thing
Before resolving on what view of our statue we wil take, it will be well to consider in
To
I
provided,
support such a relief a board will have to be some 30 inches or 3 feet high. In Fig. 3
;
to
to sketch in
put
together.
The view
manner
in
is
of showing the
attached.
our figure on the slab of clay with a pointed tcol proceeding in much the same manner as with charcoal or blacklead on a sheet of paper, using the
necessary.
that the better practice
consequent on covering the wood with wet clay, the screws with which they are fastened are let through slits (as shown) instead of round holes. By this arrangement expansion and contraction are rendered harmless. The
split
may
ledge
B, at
is
from the eye alone, and then to check-off, and correct what you have done by measuring. This disciplines the eye, and presently renders it so correct as to be able to dispense with measurements altogether. It is now time for us to decide whether our work
K.
200
is
ARTISTIC MODELLING
be
in high, low, or
to
middle
relief;
and we may
much
by sketching the outline of his figure on Whilst the background, carefully and accurately. building up, care must be taken to keep all the parts in correct relative projection, and that they are so may be ascertained by occasionally looking at the cast in the profile, and testing its forms with the plummet. Still, with all our care, we may sometimes find, when the work is near completion, that the head or a limb is not in the right place. If so, we have not, as We can in drawing, to rub it out and begin again. cut down behind it with a piece of thin string or wire, and separate it from the background. We can then
will
charm of
originality,
This is modelling from the "flat," modelling that is, from prints, or photographs. His recent practice from the "round," will have
taught the student what subjects in the
for
flat
are suited
way
in
com-
Working from
some
little
Life,
Modelling a Bust.
Before
mechanical arrangement
Fig. 4
move
it
to right or left,
;
if
required
or, if
it is
too prominent,
;
we can
cut a slice
from behind, and send it back or, if it projects too little, we can build clay behind it, so as to bring it forward as far as may be desired. Such are some of the dodges at the modeller's command. In choosing a statue from which to make a study, a male figure is rather to be preferred. It affords more useful practice, and is more easily copied. This I say under the supposition that time for this kind of If the student has leisure, the practice is limited. fe.nale figure should not be neglected, but it should not come first. The male is more useful, because it shows the anatomical structure more clearly. In it the muscular development is distinctly made out
;
The
serves to support the weight of the clay, forming the the head of the bust, is also tapered and thrust through
whilst
in
the
female,
if
beautiful,
everything
is
it
may
off
be withdrawn
'
The male
well-defined
;
are comparatively
whereas the characteristic grace of the female form depends on such subtle curves as demand a practised eye and hand to reproduce them. If at this point of his study the amateur can acquire some little knowledge of anatomy, he will find it of use to him in understanding and therefore in properly representing the forms which he sees in the cast; and
of
still
Such a frame is easily put together, and I should advise that it be made of deal. Some other woods
while, as they
must be
to suffer
from
this
kind of
warmer
when he
is
working
but
all
from the life, or from imagination. His better plan will be to buy an anatomical figure, that is, a cast of the human figure from which the skin and external fat have been removed, and the outer layer of muscles exposed. Such figures are to be bought at the plaster shops from is. 6d. upwards. With one of these, and a small handbook of artistic anatomy, of which plenty are published, it will be easy to learn the names, situations, and uses of the chief external muscles. For the amateur's purpose, any profound study of anatomy would be superfluous.
up a bust two or three days for, as it will take something like half a hundredweight of clay, not less time will be required for it so far to set and become firm as to be in a good state to work upon. Of course, during this time it should be left uncovered. The bust, when thus roughed-in, need be only the rudest resemblance of the human form, the head being more like a barber's block, and the whole smaller and thinner
well to build
first sitting
before the
sitter.
The
upright
ARTISTIC MODELLING
the centre of the neck
future alterations,
face,
it
be the
result of carrying
it
on too long
but
wood has
if,
this
advantage
at a stretch.
From
in the course of
is
easily cut
away with a
When
to bring his
head on a level with that of the bust, and both these should, as nearly as possible, be on a level
Sculptors, like other artists,
commonly have
which
The sitting over, much will be found necessary to be done to the model before the sitter again appears. In the hurry and excitement of working from the life, much will have been left rough and crude, which can now be smoothed down and made shapely. Moreover, if the modeller has good photographs of his sitter, he will find that much detail can be supplied from them,
and thus put in During the
will
at leisure.
two feet high, and is generally covered with baize. It would be found useful, and may be made from an old
from one
to
earlier sittings,
it
is
packing-case.
Bust and
sitter
may
upon both from the same direction and at the same angle. Many persons have some characteristic way of carrying the head erect, stooped, or inclined to one side or the other. If the sitter has any such pecufall
liarity,
it is
one of the
first
things to be attended to in
something of its general effect. To it on gradually towards completion, like other parts, would be but labour lost, for each time that the sitter comes, its arrangement will be seen to have changed. The better plan is, when other parts have been tolerably brought into shape, to give a sitting specially to the hair. The whole can thus be modelled in at once, whilst the arrangement remains unaltered. What mere finish is required can be added afterwards, in the absence of the sitter.
indicate
attempt to carry
little
attempt was
made
to
Commonly,
signified
is said by Cunhave attached so much importance to the preservation of this characteristic pose, that he was accustomed to invite his sitters to breakfast with him, before he began work, that he might observe while the
ningham
to
there-
Apart from the above consideration, it may be observed that unless there are reasons for giving a stiff, formal character to the bust, it is not well to
however, affect its imitation, and often with good result. In models in the round, such as our bust, the assimilation of the hair to nature can only result from bold and free handling. For this treatment the clay ought to be soft and plastic. A wooden tool, and not the thumb, must be used, and the clay must be left crisp from the tool marks, and not softened down. The question of how it will be best to drape a bust
than represented
sculptors,
is
Modern
show the face set directly forward ; a slight turn towards one side or the other adds greatly to the ease
and
is
The
tury,
and
life-like
The method of proceeding in working from the life much the same as that in working from the cast,
and general proportions have
be
this stage
it
In one of his famous dress of their own times. " Discourses," Sir Joshua Reynolds exhausts much
first
and
little
weight of argument and grace of style to prove that modern costume is altogether beneath the dignity of Yet even the ablest arguments of the sculpture.
ablest critics will not in the long run prevail against
At
is
callipers freely, so as to
make
however, the
modeller cannot proceed so leisurely as in his former practice. Whilst his sitter is before him he must
bestir himself,
his opportunity.
about the right limit to allow to a sitting. If it is made longer the sitter becomes weary, and assumes an expression which it is not desirable to
is
Two hours
sense. To deny to the portrait of a modern Englishman his accustomed dress, and to give 1. im that of an ancient Roman, was too absurd a fashion to People could not but see that in most cases the last. usual dress adds greatly to the resemblance, and and thus, in therefore to the value of the likeness our time, our ordinary costume has become a thing of
common
is
as long as any
modeller,
to
he works as he should do, can be expected work without rest. Modelling from the life causes
if
That modern dress is stiff and ugly, if clumsily be denied, but that, if properly is not to managed, it can be made artistic, is to be seen in such works as Mr. Woolner's well-known bust of the
treated,
ARTISTIC MODELLING
laureate.
Still,
the
difficulty of treating
it
well
Drapery,
it
may be
good sculptors of the present day sometimes shirk it, by simply throwing a piece of or if the bust is loose drapery round the shoulders intended to be of a formal character, by leaving it
often so great, that
;
when not smoothed down in every brush and tool marks showing in
in the hollows,
places
especially
of shadow.
altogether nude.
A bust may be
modern
coats
and
solid at
its
base,
The
stiffness of
which
severe.
is
by the introduction of such things as an academic gown, if the sitter is entitled to wear one a cloak, or even a dressing-robe. The every-day dress, when used, should be modelled from the sitter, and it will be well to devote a special sitting to that purpose
often be relieved
;
particularly
stiff
and
Thus
stand without
is
further support.
feminine,
it
usual to
round
off the
its
common method
some
5
is
to
mount
it
on a
be better modelled in his absence. Loose drapery can hardly be taken by chance it must be arranged in such folds and lines
;
be bought
at the plaster
to
as
compose
the
artistically,
and
artist.
shop for is. This requires be fixed with liquid plaster, a slip of slate being run through its
please
eye
of the
life-sized doll
with movable
is
drapery.
a pretty
life-size
placed on the lay-figure, the folds remain unaltered till their forms
have been transferred to the clay. The amateur will scarcely care to buy so costly an accessory as a lay-figure, but he can make the plaster-cast of a nude bust serve as one, and upon this arrange his drapery sufficiently well for his
purpose.
places in
all
homes
but a cabi-
mantel-shelf.
Before trying his hand on one of these, however, the amateur is advised to model two or three busts
In modelling
will
large folds of
flat tool,
Fig.
;
which will be and give him a better knowledge of detail, than the small work could at first
on the larger
scale,
better practice,
so
FIG.
supply.
will the
so will also
the
Fig.
modelling-brush,
5.
shown
It
BUST.
in
if it is
a bust
Such a brush the modeller commonly makes construcIt is easily made, and its for himself. It tion is clearly shown in the back and front views. is 5 or 6 inches long, and rather more than an inch wide the stiff bristles of which it is made projecting about three-quarters of an inch beyond the wooden handle. These, as shown in the illustration, are cut
;
should not be
made
Ordinary shoemaker's
bristles
it.
nature nearer than one half. If it does, it will look poor and mean, and look like a little head, dwarfed by accident. Less than half size, say 4 or 5 inches from chin to crown, is about the scale to be preferred. Medallions. In no form is portrait sculpture more fitted to find general favour than in the medallion. A medallion is much more easily and quickly executed than a bust, and, when made, is more easily shown
Such an instrument ought not to be put into the hands of the modeller before he has learnt to master the clay with his thumb, but in the stage of proficiency which he will now have reached, the student will find Held it a means of saving much time and labour. almost at right angles to the work, and used firmly, this tool cuts away all " humpiness," and gives a uniform surface. In drapery especially it is most valuable.
and preserved
in small houses.
As regards
size,
most
work of the
latter class,
however, as compared with a small one, much more difficult to manage than a lifesized bust. Indeed, medallions as large or larger than
of the size of
life,
is,
life
decorative purposes.
For ordinary
portraits, a
head
from 4 to
much
of the
ARTISTIC MODELLING
bust as
in
203
be shown), on a ground 13 or 14 inches Though someis about the best size. times modelled in full, or three-quarter face, mediameter,
dallions
may
and
wife
are
made
to
look one
the other.
Small
when
cast in plaster,
be framed and
In order to
One
from background
show to best advantage, they ought to be hung in much the same light as
that in which
they
were modelled,
on
slate,
With these
namely, with the back of the head towards the window. Modelling Figures in the Round
ground
is
saved,
plaster slab,
is
easily kept
group, his
step
to
make a
clay
But whatever the mechanical advantages may be, both substances, and especially the latter, are open to objection on artistic grounds. They are so different from the clay in texture and colour, as to mislead the eye
in the just discrimination of light
damp.
When
so
may
often be built
up
:
and
a highly-finished admit of being blended with the clay in an artistic manner. It is, moreover, sometimes of the composition it also allows of found desirable to indicate some slight the sketches being preserved in the form, as, say, of a light lock of hair, clay, if they are carefully dried and by means of a mere touch on the backtenderly handled, for a considerable ground itself, or even to dig a little FIG. 6. FRAMEWORK FOR FIGURE. length of time. I have such sketches into the background at certain points by me made at least fourteen years to give more shadow. With a clay background it is Clay models or sketches, it must be rememsince. easy to do these things, but with one of harder bered, which have supports of metal or other foreign material impossible. substances within them, are sure to crack and fall to An easel is the best rest on which to place a me- pieces in drying, because clay shrinks very considerdallion whilst the modeller is at work, the model and ably with loss of moisture, whilst these substances do head of the sitter being kept at much the same level. not shrink. It is generally found most easy to model the profile As soon as the small sketch is considered satisif
work
intended,
any supports of wood or and this has two advantages it allows of the figures and their limbs being pushed and moved freely in any direction which the artist may consider desirable to the improvement
without
metal
factory,
skeleton
is
or
which is the position of the head of the Queen on coins of the present reign and supposing this to have been the
left,
;
framework
set
up of a
is
size suited to
the scale
to
side
chosen, the
fall
light
should be so arranged as
FIG.
5.
MODELLING BRUSH.
A,
FRONT
in
modellers right hand. If the face is made to look to the right, a contrary arrangement of light will be necessary. This light will best bring out the features in the relief, but as the work approaches completion,
it
work
within
amateur will want to model full-sized statues or groups, but an ideal the round, such as a statuette, will be fairly
;
B,
BACK
his
province.
for
In Fig. 6
figure.
is
such a
The
will
be desirable
to turn
it
of Germanicus.
nothing
escape the eye, and be left unfinished. If a pair of medallions as, for instance, portraits
may
is
a support
to the
screwed
204
behind at the loins this bears the weight of the whole model. Here it ends in a short vertical bar, which
crosses
it
dry plates has also placed in our hands a new power, enabling us to secure perfect photographs of moving
objects,
at right angles,
and
and many a
fleeting
shadow as
it
flies.
The
gas-piping are lashed with copper wire. These pieces are bound together with the wire so as to form a
Derby, the Boatrace, the Flying Dutchman at full speed, a flash of lightning, and even photographs by
moonlight, have been obtained under the
branch
legs.
strong backbone for the trunk of the figure, and then off to form supports for the head, arms, and
new
process,
;
Wire
is
wound about
out their whole extent, in order that the clay may hold to them more firmly. At the centre of the head
two or three short crosspieces of wood are fixed, to support the mass of clay which will be placed there.
Lead
or "
is
which would otherwise have been impossible the mode of development, too, so simple and cleanly that we need not even soil the fingers, can be carried out at any time when we have leisure (for the dry plate will keep, whilst the wet one will not), in our own little dark room, with all the requisites handy, instead of being hastily done in some stuffy dark tent, or a
makeshift outbuilding, with
veniences.
tages, the
all its
tubular
attendant incon-
form gives it a fair amount of strength. It is cheap, and easily cut and manipulated and, chief of all its advantages, it can readily be bent whenever an alteraSome persons even tion in the position is desired. prefer this material to wood for the upper part of their bust-stands, and thereby reserve the power of altering the entire position of the head at will.
;
No wonder
increasing,
number of amateur photographers is daily and the practice of this beautiful artnot alone confined to a few enthusiastic
science
is
gentlemen who
too, are taking
which are chiefly made of iron. Some sculptors have these made with movable joints to facilitate These matters, however, scarcely fall alterations. within the province of the amateur. Still, should he have occasion to build a large work, enough will have been said to enable him to do so without difficulty. (To be continued?)
ports,
it a hobby, but that ladies, up as an interesting and fashionable pastime, and we may add that under our own personal observation (which is not limited), we have seen some of the most artistic and beautiful productions of the camera executed by ladies. Seeing, however, that we are not writing a treatise on the Dry Plate process, but only upon one section of it (and that a very interesting one), we must now
it
may make
address
ourselves to the
the arts
amateur,
who
is
already
take
initiated in
-==.
HOW
TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHIC SLIDES FOR THE MAGIC LANTERN.
(By
We
is
will, therefore,
for
in possession
of the
mer season
,
some of among which he spent the pleaholiday tour, and we will now explain to
method of
utilizing
him
photography
amongst
and of pleasure to his friends that by making photographic reproductions, or transparencies, as they are called, for exhibiting in the magic
interest to himself
is,
;
both professionals and amateurs during years, that in place of the bulky and cum-
bersome apparatus, and the messy concoctions of silver bath, collodion, chemical solutions, etc., which were necessary for obtaining a photograph by the old wet process, we have now the sensitive bromide of
silver plate,
These are produced by contact printing with an light, and the requisites are an ordinary printing frame with rather a deep rebate, the size of
artificial
:
your negative
zinc
a developing tray
;
glass, or porcelain
;
a fixing dish
portable
outfit,
consisting of lens,
camera, and folding tripod, altogether weighing but a few pounds, with which we can sally out on any fine morning with, say, half-a-dozen dry plates, and secure half-a-dozen views, in less time than was formerly
occupied in rigging up the apparatus for taking a single
picture
lamp
The extremely
character of these
new
i.e., 3J inches by 3^ inches, which you can obtain specially prepared for the purpose from Messrs. Cussons and Co., 79, Bold Street, Liverpool, at about eighteenpence for one dozen packet (or probably from other makers of dry plates) and you will also require to make up the following solutions, which
;
205
over the plates, and by a gentle, rocking motion of it constantly moving from side to side,
protosulphate of iron
it
let
you
dissolve
(label this
will shortly see the highest lights of the picture appear, then the half tones, and deeper shaded por-
1 solution). Take of neutral oxalate of potash 4 ounces, bromide of potassium 10 grains, hot water 1 pint, let these dissolve and become cold before using (label No. 2 solution). Take of hypo-sulphite of soda
No.
viewing
4 ounces, water
tion).
pint, dissolve
(label
No. 3
solu-
You
are
now ready
for
making the
print,
and
proceed as the picture increases in vigour, until when it by transmitted light {i.e., on holding it up in the fingers to the lamp and looking through it) every detail appears to stand out in bold relief of black and white, then the development may be
stopped, the plate rinsed in cold water, and placed in
for this
purpose you should carefully select a good negative, fully exposed, ample in detail, and with
the dish containing the No. 3 solution, sufficient to well cover it, and left to clear.
If on examination by transmitted light the picture should not appear sufficiently strong, the plate may be returned to the developing tray for a minute or two longer, and should the action of the developer not
and shadows. A thin delicate negative, which would yield a good print upon paper, is not so suitable for a lantern slide, since it would give only a flat and weak transparency. Having selected your negative, place
it,
and immerse
it
in another
remove any dust, then (by the ruby lamp) take one of the prepared sensiplates, 3} inches by 3J inches, carefully brush
it,
a very nice preparation made by the Platinotype Company, of Southampton Row, London, and sold in
shilling bottles, with full instructions for use
;
this pre-
downwards, upon your negative in close contact, place the back of the printing frame with its springs in the usual way, and
film side
then expose the plate to the light of gas-burner, or paraffin lamp, by holding the frame in the hand about
18 inches
away from
must be judged from the character of the negative a little practice will soon determine this. We have given the time as an average one, but we must caution you to avoid
seconds
;
appearance of the image, acting as a kind of inWhen this has taken place, remove the plate, rinse it in cold water, and again immerse it in the original Ferrous Oxalate Solution, when the developing action will re-commence, and it may be continued until no further change appears, then rinse in water, and place in the clearing solution No. 3. Over-exposure may be corrected during developtensifier.
obtained
As a first
and
practically retarding
is
would be well to now complete the first plate by developing and fixing it, so as to ascertain whether the exposure has been correct if it proves weak and thin give less exposure in future if it proves hard and wanting in detail give a second or two longer
experiment
it
; ;
obtainable in the
at
producing
that
with
full
mind
when
you are exhibiting the slide in a magic lantern, it will lose something in those effects consequent upon the great enlargement of the picture as depicted upon
the screen.
and care must be exercised, that no ray of white light be allowed to fall upon the sensitized plate, as this would
affect the brilliancy of the finished picture.
When
fixing, or clearing
The opera-
must be conducted in the dark room, under same conditions as in developing a negative you can manipulate a number of these small transparencies together in the same tray, if of sufficient capacity, and with the Ferrous Oxalate
tion
precisely the
;
creamy appearance to be changed to brilliancy, it must be copiously washed in running water, say for ten or fifteen minutes, and then set upon its edge face outwards to dry spontaneously, on no account must
artificial
developer this is very easy. Take, say, four of the exposed plates at a time, place them face upwards in the developing tray, mix together in your glass measure 1 ounce of No. I, and 2 ounces of No, 2
heat be used for this purpose. perfectly dry, the film must be protected by a thin coating of pale gelatine negative varnish (this may be obtained in shilling bottles from the makers
When
of the plates), and if any touching out of spots or imperfections is necessary, that may be done before
206
FERNERIES:
warm
THEM.
and
31
back over a spirit lamp, or a clear fire, and flow from the bottle a small quantity of the varnish in one wave over the surface of the film, returning the superfluous quantity back to the bottle from one corner of the plate, which may then be dried over a
fire
inches long, solder this into a hoop 10J inches diameter, and solder this on to the circular plate now solder
;
three or four ledges about J inch inside the vessel, for the glass to rest upon. You will now require a glass
or a spirit lamp.
the finished plate ready to make up form of a lantern slide this is effected by placing over the varnished side a black paper mask, with a round or square cut aperture in the centre of the regulation size, 3 inches, and over that again a
shade 10 inches wide by 14 deep cover the lowerpart with two thicknesses of paper, and set it inside the vessel, resting on the ledges the whole being upon a
;
:
in the usual
flat
board or
Now
walnuts,
water,
to build
up the
rustic
work
same
photograph,
bound together on
make a thin batter of Roman cement and and dip them in cement these with Roman cement on to the vessel. The vessel should be sup;
every size with narrow strips of gummed black paper, and the title of the subject pasted upon one edge,
inch, so as to leave a
Use smaller
pieces of coke
when
by
the slide
is
completed.
Very
this
beautiful photographs
may
also be produced
is
glass (which
specially
window
decoration,
lamps and many other purposes. They are also admirably adapted as a basis for artistic finishing The instrucin sepia, black and white, or in colours. tions here given being from practical experience, may be relied upon for securing the best results and we hope that the readers of Amateur Work, who have good negatives by them, will find many a pleasant
for hall
;
towards the top, and use cement only at the top, as though you were actually cementing the glass in; make a neat but not perfectly straight line at the top, taking care that the lower part presents a rugged but not clumsy appearance when this is set firm, take out the glass, which, when the paper is removed, should Bore a few holes in the bottom, and your fit easily. fernery is complete. Colour as directed in Chapter I. This should cost about 2s.
;
evening's
amusement
=4-=
an open fernery, with an aquarium on hardy ferns will be found to answer well. In this the zinc work will require to be rather more Take a piece of No. 10 carefully made, as follows zinc 12 inches by 9, and roll it into the form of a tube about 2^ inches wide; solder roughly the seam; this will give you a hollow pillar 12 inches by 2i. Now make a zinc tray (Fig. 11) by soldering a 1 inch rim of zinc on This must be solto a 12 inch circular piece of zinc. dered so as to be water-tight, as in watering the ferns
Fig. 10
is
top,
and
for
in the
table
propagator glass
II. OPEN FERNERIES
HE
in
current papers
on "Soft Soldering,"
appear opportunely
Amateur Work,
now be
sitate at least
metal work in these designs is entirely concealed from view, and will be all the better at least none the worse for being of the roughest possible kind, it
For the aquarium glass, an 11 inch be obtained at any glass-dealer's), Now build set upside down, will answer admirably. up the fernery (Fig. 12). Proceed, as in Fig 8, by arranging some good-sized pieces of coke of irregular shapes all round the tray. Now get four 3 j inch flowerpots, and cover thsm with paper, and with pieces of string secure them to the pillar in a slanting position, cement all the sides of the pots, taking as shown care to keep below the rim, so that they can be withdrawn at a later stage. This will require about two
in use.
(to
;
when
applications of
will
which
is
:
made by
Take a
first
making a
piece of
No. 9 or 10 sheet
in diameter, cut
it
and
cement. Put good-sized pieces of between the pots, and let the rockwork be rugged, but light. When these four have been set in, and the work is firm to the touch, withdraw the pots, and finish off the edges and inside the recesses carefully. Now proceed to build up a second tier of pots in the same way, arranged as in plan, Fig. 13, and as partially shown in Fig. 12. This upper tier is built
coke
FERNERIES:
THEM.
207
FIG. 14.
FIG.
2o8
FERNERIES:
THEM.
much
closer to the pillar than the lower ones, and that each one is placed so as to be between two of the lower tier. This done, remove the remaining pots, and finish off the upper part of the pillar, with cement,
to a fairly straight line
work, or material of the wall, at irregular intervals of space, and, having well wetted the wall, proceed to build up any number of various sized pockets on the
wall, using the
on
top.
Colour to
taste.
method described
be well adapted
for its
The aquarium
no
setting,
Roman
sand.
as the weight of the water will keep it in position but if preferred to be a fixture, the tube must be filled with wet cement, and the bulb of the glass thrust in and left to set. Cost of fernery, complete, about 2s. 6d.
Fig. 14
is
Do
cement, with about one-fourth sharp, clean not attempt to do too much at once, giving
irregularly
it
The more
the better
and roughly
this
work
is
done,
will look.
When
of the
much
is
to the attraction
and
what
and
easily
managed
shall
only instead
is
of a propagating-glass,
we
want
half-way
not less than \ inch clear through this, and about down the pillar, are passed the two lengths one being the supply-pipe of i inch compo pipe
;
ferns and creepers, placing those nearest the bottom which prefer the most moisture. Extend the rockwork outwards at bottom as far as convenient, and when watering use a syringe keep the rockwork always as damp as possible, as this will favour the development of mosses, lichens, etc. A similar plan will answer well on a window-sill balcony or other convenient place.
;
and the other the waste-pipe. The waste-pipe should be carried up to within 1 inch of the top of the glass. For the jet, solder on to the supply-pipe what is known in the trade as a " cigar-cock," the same being
a " pipe-light cock." When these two pipes are in position, run some cement into aquarium, to fill up the bulb, and afterwards build up
venture to
and having briefly pointed to the work for out-door decoraexpress the hope that those of my
readers
who
known
in country places as
with the designs given, but will exercise their taste in developing what are only intended as the simplest
with cement and cemented pieces of coke the pillar, as shown in Fig. 14. Where a continuous supply of
made
myself.
water
is
not to hand,
in Fig. 15
a stout nail
have used the plan represented a small, half-round tank, made to hang on or screw in the wall, to which is attached
I
tirely to
In concluding this part of the subject, relating endesigns in rustic work, I may mention that a
is
mens
flexible tube,
connecting
it
a large jug, or any other suitable and convenient vessel, to catch the waste, and return it to the tank as
often as required. Fig. 16 represents the
black and gold, by giving the work two coats of boiled oil and ground black then varnish with oak varnish,
;
manner
in
may be
a fernery. It frequently happens that, in the small space of ground attached to small houses in crowded towns, which the landlord describes
utilized as
and afterwards touch up projecting points with gold bronze, mixed with varnish and gold size. This gives it the appearance of cast metal work, and harmonizes well with the tone of the ferns. Of course, where the
idea
is
to
as
"a
either hides or
in the
In the next paper the designs given will be chiefly such as are intended for placing in the sitting or drawing-room, and their construction will necessitate
many
futile
attempts,
some
little
practical
the tenant at last comes to the conclusion that " nothing will grow on that side," Now, in nine cases
out of ten, that
will
is just
some
is
little skill in
finishing
easily
the painting
acquirements
may be made. It be somewhat of a dirty job, and will entail a little hard work but the result will amply repay its expencessful attempt at fern cultivation
;
very easy to work, and the tools required few and simple but for the benefit
;
who can do
in
some designs
woodwork
although
ferneries
I
required being 2 or 3 lbs. of 2-inch nails, a sack or so of gas coke, and some
diture, the materials
be given
a future paper
do not
recommend
ence to
struction,
the use of
wood
for the
purpose
in prefer-
Roman cement and washed sand. Having broken up the coke into suitable sized pieces, bath them in a thin
batter of cement.
zinc, the
latter
being
to moisture.
The
209
Make
the ridges of your hills irregular, and none so high as the point I. Tool out the valleys in the hill sides till
Maps to M.E.B.
finely at
set,
first.
this appearance. not to attempt to finish the work too In a day or two the clay will become
and
retain
more
HERE
thereon.
first
A good
general contour
China clay, pipeclay, papier-mache, and, what I term, white composition. Only the last two mentioned require description, To prepare papier-mache for modelling Take white blotting-paper, and soak it in water till it is reduced to pulp squeeze dry in a cloth, mix thoroughly with the white paste already described, working it with a knife on a board or stone slab, till of the consistence of painters' putty, and you will have a pleasant and reliable substance to work with. For
:
sought
for, details
and high
let
what should be be
easily obtained.
us turn to the
Cumbrian
difficult
Although complex,
subject to model
;
this is
by no means a
I
have known it to be selected by several amateurs as an initiatory essay in clay or plaster work. This will be easily understood
in fact,
when we
is little
more than
Take
best whiting,
an association of blunted cones. I speak now of maps on small or moderate-sized scales on those of great magnitude the details and difficulties are, of course,
;
add one third, by measure, of common wheaten flour, mLx with cold water thoroughly, and work it into a stiff doughy consistence. This is also very pleasant to work in, and stands well in moderately-sized geographical works. With any of these modelling clays proceed to work upon the bases of the hills shaded upon your mounted map. A knowledge of geology is not indispensable to the
constructor of relievo maps, but an acquaintance with
the general contours of the geological formations will
little in producing truthful modelling. To end the sketch in Fig. 3, taken in connection with the third column in our table of heights will be found of value. In addition to this, I would recommend the obtaining, whenever practicable, of photographs, or reliable sketches, or engravings of remarkable localities the Cumbrian Group, and Snowdon, for example and if the modeller can sketch ever so little, we predict that from the time he commences the practice of the art his eye and hand will be often busy in jotting down the outlines of hills, etc., that meet his
increased.
by the
Build the clay in cones upon the parts marked rivets, keeping each point quite distinct from the others, and leaving the valleys to be filled in after
the modelling has become tolerably dry. When the whole is finished it ought to present the general outlines shown in Figs. 6 and 7.
From Cumberland we will pass to the York Moors. Here, on the cretaceous formation, we entirely change our style of modelling, making the elevations neither
craggy nor conical, but an assemblage of bold undusometimes steeply scarped. The York Moors may be briefly described as a table-land, beautifully
lations,
aid not a
this
with broad uplands and wide fertile guarded by a grand natural wall on the west, and sloping gently down to the plain on the south, and to the lofty cliffs overlooking the ocean on the
diversified
valleys,
east.
The
sketch in Fig. 8
will,
We may
advantage,
to refer to
it
is
of often great
eye.
when
map on
a small scale,
The
very simple
An
points A, stumps or fiats B, and scrapers C (Fig. 4), made of bone pen-holders, filed or glass-papered into
shape, will enable the worker to produce almost any
kind of form and delicacy of finish. Let us begin our modelling at the Cheviots.
a
little size
Wash
one of much larger size, as features are there frequently represented which throw great light upon the smaller work. We now come to the Pennine Range, Fig. 9. This has, not inaptly, been termed as the backbone of EngExtending from the Cheviots to Derbyshire, a land. distance of a hundred and sixty miles, and presenting an almost
infinite series of
bold contours,
it
offers
an
mounted map, and when dry build up, with your clay, the principal height marked by the rivet I (see Fig. 2 at p. 106), as 2686 feet, and thejj run a narrow piece
of modelling clay along the remainder of the range,
generally described
210
those
necessity
strictly
for
western
short,
adher-
being generally
ing
and
oft-
heights
to the marked
times
steep,
forming craggy
escarpments.
Those
on the east descend in long gradual
stretches,
On
lose
no account
sight of these
by
modelling over
en-
closing
valleys,
broad which
gradually blend,
in
graceful un-
THE
YORK MOORS.
A,
FLAMBOROUGH HEAD.
of
the
or
mounother
little
dulations,
with
tain,
Being comis
elevation,
and
be seen, a
Attention
pro-
lofty
reliable vertical
broad rocky platforms, and wide table-lands, are the chief characteristics of the region. The summits form a distinct water-part-
portions.
The
order in which
to
is
as
From
the
eastern and
western
northern
ties
river
systems of the
counin
the
of our land.
The
sketch
to the modeller.
It is
Heights,
necessary
in this,
and
in
inall
deed
cases, to
strictly
FIG. 3.
MODELLING TOOLS.
hill
A,
POINTS
STUMPS OR FLATS
Figs. 10
C,
SCRAPERS.
adhere
to
My
sketches,
the areas
marked by the
shading
to take
13, illustrative of
of the
map you
and
you
when the process of embossing is effected, be presented with the phenomena of rivers running up"or over hills, etc. A little attention and
will
chief points of these, with reference to our table of heights and geological formations, will enable the constructor to give a distinctive character to each
locality.
Dobbs,
many
frequent
ference
re-
of the former
to
your
map
save
in
tions.
unwill
mounted
much
correcI
Pethis
of the
after- trouble
have
4*^
FIG. 9.
ne-
not hitherto
glected, yet I
spoken of the
IN
believe
all
Granite
&
Trap.
Cumbrtan
Mountain Limestone..
Oo/ite.
FIG.
Chalk.
IN
Sands
&
^^:^^nSi
Clays.
ENGLAND.
FIG. 5.
THE
FIG. 6.
BORROWDALE,
CUMBERLAND.
FIG. 7.
SKIDDAW
AND SADDLEBACK.
2i2
AN AMATEUR'S PHOTOGRAPHIC
will agree with me in thinking that it is one that cannot be too strongly insisted on. The great charm of a model or of a relievo map is its close resemblance
will flatten
and make
it
much
into the
work of
work of the portrait painter. Suppose the principal heights, on the map, to be modelled, it will be desirable to leave the work for a day or two to get well set. No specific time can be named for this, as it depends on the state of the weather, the warmth of the work-room, the size of the
the
approach the line of coast. Work on this by vertical strokes of your modelling points, and you will obtain the distinctive features of cliffs, as will be shown in Fig. 14 in the next chapter. Smooth your clay gently down seaward, where there are no cliffs, and blend it into the undulations of the land beyond. While working up to this point, the model should be frequently brought to the level of the eye, and the contours rigidly examined on all sides. By such a view, errors will ofttimes be detected that might escape
work, and, consequently, the bulk of clay employed. A very little practice will enable anyone to determine when the modelling may be touched without disturbing the work already done. This decided on, we will commence the secondary modelling.
and new ideas are by the horizontal survey. During the progress of the work it will be found necessary to moisten the modelling already done before adding new clay. This should be effected by passing
the ordinary bird's-eye observation,
also frequently suggested
This consists
Cotswold,
land
;
in
filling
in
Wolds
;
the
Malvern,
Mendip
Hills,
etc.
should be kept in a
The modelling clay, when not in use, damp place or in a damp cloth.
(To
be continued?)
="*=
Wrekin, Langdon Hill, This will lead to the third modelling, in which we add the minor spurs of the principal hills, level up the land and beds of the river gradually towards the salient heights, which have hitherto appeared as sharp, abrupt landmarks upon a dead level. This portion of the work is apparently easy, but it requires considerable taste and judgmen to distinguish between the leaving of the model abrup and unnatural (as will be the case if the valleys and uplands are not judiciously filled in and made to blend naturally with the bases of the hills and mountains),
isolated parts, as the
St. Catherine's Hill, etc.
JAMES PARKINSON.
II. THE
FTER
"
builder will
it
be,
filling in
the low-
What am
to furnish
with
"
Like
this as in
In a word, the point to be aimed avoid rendering the work blunt and indefinite, on the one hand, or " patchy and poor," by
to
is
not
very
flourishing condition,
he must purchase
just
lie
of the slopes
and depres-
on the other.
it
be found most convenient to roll out a piece of clay of about half the width of the depression, and with a modelling
In working up the valleys
will
circumstances permit, he must add to his stock. But before entering into any description of furniture accessories, etc., we must consider the interior
till it
reaches the
hill
sides,
and is made to blend with the first portion of the the sides and bed of the valley will then work naturally follow. At this stage it may not be amiss to
;
arrangement of Dark Room and Studio. The Dark Room. As the success of all our efforts depend, in a great measure, on the arrangement, cleanliness, and order of the dark room, it will be well
repeat the advice given concerning the taking care not to obliterate or mistake the river beds. Although
the
are modelling
upon
is
now
sup-
room, and I will tell you if he be up any good," used to be the saying of a well-known
posed to be nearly hidden beneath your clay, yet reference to your unmounted map, and occasional use of your compasses will enable you to keep the watercourses true.
photographer.
The
ticle
first
and to effect this the walls and ceilings must be coated with a good coating of oil-paint of a
of dust,
non-reflecting colour,
The
laid on.
cliffs,
and coast line generally, may be now This should be done by rolling out a long
it
as
to
about a quarter
wood.
ITS CONSTRUCTION.
213
able height.
in reality.
In
water
There should be a plentiful supply of a tube should be fixed to the tap, with a rose attached at the end, and then there is no fear of
;
is
essentially neceslight,
damaging the
very quickly.
water.
in
film,
and a large
course, a pipe
plate
You may
it
pro-
Of
viding
be perfectly non-actinic. Two sheets of glass safe, one of dark ruby, the other orange. It is very safe to use only one orange pane, covering it with a sheet of ruby paper. When not in use, the windows should be thrown
should be perfectly
waste
and sponge will be found most useful the dark room, and a plentiful supply of damp cloth
A towel
open
to
this is
down. The dark room should be kept most scrupulously clean, and for this purpose a mop should be used. Never use a brush.
for cleaning
Do
:
not
fall
room
A well-known
tographer's dark
it
" The phocomments on the dark room as follows room (or laboratory', as some name
'
should contain a regiment of shelves. If possible, do not have more than one, as they are sure to harbour
dust,
to lay
now, although
confess
utility of
tity of
by
rolling
it
round a
is
draught,
high-sounding
the purpose)
name when a
the
dark room,
therefore say,
would send up a cloud, which, if floated upon a landscape negative, would not produce a very harmonious
cloud
If
effect.
it
sacred sanctum, wherein the manipulator performs a a place where series of extremely delicate operations
is
possible,
for stock
and order must reign supreme, if he wants to make his work perfect a place wholly and solely to himself anyone will acknowledge this When a fact if he knows what good photography is.
cleanliness, carefulness,
other apparatus
and appliances not used in direct connection with the operating and developing processes. A good workman will have a place for everything, and keep everything
in its place.
contaminated
finger, a silvery
beam
of light, as fine as
a gossamer thread, or a few particles of dust, can spoil, or, at least, mar, the beauty of his work, it is but right that the worker should be left free from meddlers or careless employes in the same establishment. " In a great many studios, the dark room is a place synonymous with a lumber-room the word dark, I suppose, having originally suggested to the mind something dirty, dusty, ding)', down-among-the-coals
;
The Skylight.
shall
now draw
attention to the
arrangement of blinds, etc. Here the first care must be to provide means to shut off the light at will, or cast a shadow, if desired, in the reskylight, with the
quired direction.
What
make
is
;
sort of a feeling
Hence,
it
of broken
cameras,
dilapidated
dust-pans,
brooms,"
etc.
the amateur Almost every operator has some plan peculiar to his own ideas, and to describe the various methods in use would be the work of almost a lifetime. The method I am about to describe is, I think, as practicable as any, and better
is
tography
diffused light
to
must proceed
blinds,
What the writer wishes to impress will be easily understood to be carefulness, cleanliness, and the most
perfect order.
than a great
of deal
many in use. It consists of light frames made to fit each sash so therefore four will
;
be required
and four
To
door,
fill
room for leakage of light, shut the then cover the window up, and set to work and
test the
suit-
The frames should fit perfectly, so as to avoid leakage of light. They should be covered with a bluishcoloured material, which will
filter
able material.
Under
a strong bench, which should centre, where the light falls, I prefer one about twelve inches deep which should be let in flush with the bench and, if thought necessary, the bench may be fluted, so that the splash water will find its way into the sink, and thus do away with a dirty,
height, should be fixed
very soft and diffused, and therefore capable of producing any desired effect, and under perfect conder
it
be perfectly
level
trol.
The frames
or, if
thought
light
may be
posed.
The
or,
may be
sloppy operating-table.
For
in the
my
down
to
my
work, both
at
a series of bluish-coloured blinds substituted in their stead, which run from the ridge to the top of the sidelight on iron rods, in accordance with the mode of
able, the
suit-
214
AN AMATEUR'S PHOTOGRAPHIC
:
Another method may be described as follows Instead of the wooden frames, the light is filtered
through bluish-coloured curtains, which are secured to the ridge, and capable of being moved up or down at
will, after the
style of
an ordinary window-blind.
If
these were
catches,
made on
human face," though there are some portions which may be nearly so the whole face should be more or
;
some method
them
is
in their places
It
each time
must be clearly understood that the blinds of the top-light draw down, and those of the side-light pull up. The following is a new method of lighting the sitter, which is effected by means of a portable head screen and reflector, adapted from the American studios, and fully described in a " special work * issued by M. Klary, of Algiers, of which the following extract
the direction of light
altered.
will give all the
shaded and some luminous touches be slightly thrown on the most prominent parts the greatest distance from the eye of the beholder should be
less
:
darkest in tone the nearest portion the lightest and every gradation between.
Of
may be employed
the three lights used in the studio, the diffused in the greater quantity the reflected
;
and the
direct used
more
The
soft
necessary information
"
lay
down
and
slightly-diffused light,
managing the
picture
is
light is of
paramount importance
it is
for a
imperfect
when
is
deficient in those
tints in the
high
lights,
which make it
and side. This is readily obtained by the use of the head-screen, which being constructed with various movements, will enable the
portions the top
The
study of lighting
more
It
himself an 'artist'
all
should be placed by the sitter, nearest to the light, and of course outside the focus of the desired picture.
It must be elevated above the head, raised, or lowered, and turned to the required angle, until the operator observes the true and best effect upon the shade and
our
effects,
our
both
in
we
The
adopted
but
it is
There
will
now be seen a
in the construction of
photographic studios,
latter, especially
use of the
when employed
dered
many
is
over the whole of the figure, but a little predominant on the side nearest the source of light then open a small accidental side-light in front of the sitter, which
;
and the
resulting picture
ren-
will fall
face.
If the
shades of the face destroyed, the features distorted, the eyes, the mouth, the upper lip especially, shorn of their full expression, and the whole face wanting in graceful and natural relief.
feeble, the natural
little,
and
:
move
portraits,
it is
quite un-
shaded side of the face it will thus increase the top-light, and bring the face into bolder relief; the shaded side, though slightly darker than the other, will remain soft and full of
it
necessary to use the side-light in so large a quantity as is usual ; the top-light when under judicious control, will
detail.
and more
artistic effects
of
It is necessary that the light be light and shade. balanced in accurate proportion, the time of exposure
Observe that the reflex of the eye must be the These luminous points have their in each. places on the upper part of the eye, and nearest the
same
ment adjusted according to the exposure. These general remarks will apply to the old wet collodion process, but much more forcibly to the New
Bromo-Gelatine process, in which exposures are calculated by fractions of a second, bearing in mind that the modern form of dry plate possesses the power of
bringing out details to the minutest degree, and depict-
If the reflex appears one eye only, the face is too far from the side-light. Then move your camera, and turn the face towards the side-light, till these luminous points appear in both eyes the head will then be well lighted, and the outline of the nose well rendered. A beautiful and often unforeseen lighting will be discovered by the movements of this screen. Being made of translucent
in
fail to
render,
it is
im-
and slightly diffuses the head of the sitter, and is an immense power in the hands of a skilful operator for obtaining in any studio those fine effects of light and shade
material,
it
softens, filters,
ITS CONSTRUCTION.
215
may pleasantly adorn the gallery the designs contained in the supplements of back numbers of Amawill furnish ample variety of these on which should be supported busts of the great masters, but these adornments must not be too numerous, or the effect will be entirely lost. The next thought will be on the choice of backgrounds for general portraiture and vignettes. The most perfect and economical material for backgrounds is the "Empire" Patent Opaque Cloth, as both sides are equally available, the dark for general and the light for vignettes this may be had by the yard in various widths, or mounted on roller complete. It is a textile fabric, prepared in such a manner as to render almost invisible the meshes of which the fabric is composed. This material is non-reflecting.
;
and curtains
sitter is
in fact,
teur Work,
over the
easy to
be obtained by the use of this screen than by any other means and it will be found that less retouching
;
is
With
taste,
and a
little
It is often necessary to soften the edges of the shadows, in case of need, with a pure and delicate
This is done readily by means of a used in accordance with the judgment of the operator. It should be turned towards the sitter in such a manner as to throw a concentrated light upon that part of the face under and behind the eye, as well as the darker portions of the neck, and thus the spot of reflected light appearing in the eyes will be avoided. A perfectly exact position
reflected light.
concave
reflector,
of the reflector
obtained.
is
may be
[The "Empire" Patent Opaque Cloth for backmentioned here is supplied by Messrs. J. Avery and Co., 81, Great Portland Street, London, W., who will send priced samples post free to any
grounds
applicant.
Rembrandt do not change the position of the face, but move your camera so as to obtain a view of the other cheek, and cause some
For
lighting a la
slight modification of the head-screen
will
;
reference
is
The accessories for the studio, to which made below, are supplied by Messrs.
this lighting
It is
not
here necessary to use the reflector, the head-screen alone will regulate the top-light, which must be used
sparingly, so that it does not fall upon the points where the middle tones are wanted. The prices of the head-screen and reflector used in the new system of lighting are given at the end of this paper. Now that we have the light fully under our control and management, our next thought will be how we can best and most economically make our little studio look bright and inviting. The floor should be covered with any suitable material as pecuniary circumstances will admit. Carpet is the most homely and suitable covering, but if this should be thought too expensive, the next best and cheapest material is oil cloth, but that part of the studio where the sitter is posed must be covered with a suitable square of
D. H. Cussons and Co., 79, Bold St>-eet, Liverpool, and are fully described in the " Photographers' Pocket Almanac and Reminder," issued by this firm at 2d., and noticed in Part XV. of this Magazine. Ed.] If something more artistic be desired, an interior or exterior background must be purchased, but these
only
mar
moreover, if you have fancy backgrounds, you must have furniture and accessories
to match, and selected according to the nature of the background. For exteriors, a rustic style, imitation tree-trunks, rocks, etc., may be introduced with pleasing effect. The imitation tree-trunks are very beautiful, being modelled from nature in a very light material called
will re-
and
rivulets
carpet.
Pictures may be hung upon the walls of the studio (where the skylight does not touch), and these, if they be of corresponding harmony with our fine art, pro-
effect.
In the selection of
As
is
must be
would not harmonize very well with carpet (as too There are inflaoften seen in 5s. per dozen cases). tion grass mats, size from 6 feet by 4 feet, which are very effective, and photograph better than real grass. If the background represents an interior, the furniture and accessories must be suggestive of the background. Small fancy tables, art curtains, rugs, velvet cushions, may be introduced with good effect. One
of the great mistakes
made
is
overcrowding.
is
producing the most pleasing effect, if of small size and surrounded by a wide margin of mount. To these may be added, with good effect, a few framed photographs taken by the owner of the studio. Brackets
The most
seated on a
If desired,
in the semi-
exposure
is
made
2l6
time,
artistic portraits
may be
mean
instantaneous)
that could possibly be desired, avoiding any expression of a hard or unchildlike, sober character, the two
DURRANCE.
effects, viz.,
II, THE
One
is
to pur-
reading over
omissions
casting
most of the stationers' shop-windows Then, on the choice of the posing in every town.
tised for sale in
chair, if the conditions of the purse will allow, pur-
which
my
last
I
article,
found
In
it
now
correct.
several
layers of plaster,
is
is
and most perfect in the market. It forms four chairs and two couches, each distinctly complete
in itself. It
in
is
made
in
handsome piece of
will be then plainly any wax sticks to the mould it can be easily removed by pouring on boiling water, it will do no harm to the mould. Those who are desirous
of division
secondly,
if
of learning
more than
is
furniture.
The
following
may be
of
mode and
desirability of tinting
accurate price
list
accessories, appliances,
and
:
plaster in making moulds for casting, are referred to " Casting in Plaster of Paris," Vol. I., page 371. The
Backgrounds, Etc.
Moulding
in Plaster."
s.
d.
o
6
proceed with the casting. The first and most essential thing required, is a crucible one hold-
Now,
to
Interior, 8
ft.
2 2
2
2
ft.
6
6
o 15
ft.
by
ft
ft.
0150
by 4
ft
FIG.
7. CRUCIBLE TONGS.
o 12
1
1
ing about two pounds will be the most convenient size, as it is desirable to always have a surplus, and
it will keep hot. The most dealers in chemical materials, or, better still, from Mr. T. Fletcher, Museum Street, Warrington, and I should advise all
photo.)
...
050
1
15
Furniture.
The Triune Chair, 3 changes The Argyll Chair, 5 changes The Sultana Chair, 3 changes The /Esthetic Poser, 6 changes
Small Fancy Table Garden Terrace
3
5
10
15
" to
send
is
No
6 10
10 10
o o
o o
one
will regret
doing
this.
The
some method
of melt-
2100
5
To
10
of Fletcher's furnaces, all further trouble is at an end ; but as most amateurs do not possess that valuable
Appliances.
Head and Body Rest The Emmerson Patent Head and Body Rest
Camera Stand
160
2
10
2100
10
Concave
Side-reflector
100
fittings.
With a
substitutes for
some
of
we must use the ordinary fireyou have not a furnace at your command). Previous to melting, store up all the half-burnt cinders which drop out of the fire (if you have no chance of obtaining gas coke, which is superior) next prepare the fire by cleaning out all the dirt and small ashes, leaving a small quantity of clear fire next, put on a few cinders, on which to rest the crucible, which must be filled with old scrap brass, turnings, borings, etc. if you have not sufficient, any plumber will let you have some cheap. The crucible must be placed firmly, and perfectly upright, on the cinders, and well towards the back of the fireplace, then packed all round with more cinders having put a large lump on
piece of apparatus,
place
(if
AN EASY METHOD OF DECORATING BOARDED
the top to form a
lid,
FLOORS.
217
fuel,
the
means
at
your
command stop the air from going anywhere but through the bottom of the grate, also open any doors near the fireplace, to allow a free current of air to
if you have a pair of bellows, or any other arrangement for blowing, by all means use it. I have never yet met with any ordinary fire-grate on which it
pass
HE
long
parallel
floor
lines
of an
ordinary
boarded
the eye,
was not possible to melt brass, so with ordinary care you are bound to succeed. The mould having previously been well-dried, must be made as hot as possible, by placing in the oven, or very near the fire, for the hotter the mould
"the easier the brass will
dirty,
throughout, the
wife.
The
run;
if
your metal
is
very
down
become an
put in with
it
little salt,
home
;
for
and can be skimmed off with a piece of iron rod. The fire being now burned through, lift off the large piece of coke, to skim off if it looks very white and dirt and see if it is melted Put the mould as close quite fluid, get ready to pour.
dirt will
then
more objectionable nature while if there could be some means found of breaking the bare monotony of the boarded floor, the occupant of the room would soon perceive that a rug by the fireside,
is all
tongs (Fig. 7), or failing these, make a pair by fastening two pieces of thick iron wire to the ordinary firetongs, by binding with copper wire, then grasping
the crucible firmly, pour smartly, until you see the metal rise, and fill both holes, in a few minutes it will
The
is,
be
success,
wishing to make their own alloy, I give some receipts 1. Bell metalCopper 3 parts, tin 1 part. 2 Brass for light castings Copper 4 parts, tin
.
amateur with an easy method, by which any floor laid with ordinary deal boards may be so decorated, that he may please himself as to what extent of carpeting he may care to lay down upon it. The system may be carried out for boarded floors in all parts of the house, and may be applied to the side decoration of halls, passages, and stairs. This system of decoration consists in crossing the "joint-lines " of the boarded floor with transverse lines,
incised so as to divide the surface of this into squares,
part.
Brass for hard castings (for heavy work) Copper 8 parts, tin 2 parts, zinc 1 part. The hardest metal to be melted first, then add the rest, stirring up well. For all ordinary purposes these formulae will be
3.
and then by boring holes, according to a design fixed upon, and driving into them pegs of black, or darkcoloured wood, to give an ornamental character to the
whole.
By
a glance at Fig.
the reader
sufficiently
duced by
this
method.
which the
nicety.
1.
Copper
by which this kind of floor decoration is done, have now to be given seriatim. The width of the boards is of no consequence, but floors are so
steps
The
16 parts, tin
it
may be
part.
2.
taken for granted that the floor to be decorated will be one of this kind. If the planks be wider the only
Caution.
carefully
If
Ordinary
warmed up, and cooled, or they will crack. you use the salamander brand no care is required, and they cost a mere trifle more secondly, remove the hearthrug, in case you spill any metal and set fire
;
to the house.
The next
work, cores,
etc.
shall
(To be continued)
be an enlargement of the squares into which the floor is divided. In setting out the work according to the design given in Fig. 1, which represents one-fourth of a square floor, the first step will be to find the joint-line, or the plank which lies in the middle of the floor, or comes Let us suppose a joint-line A A in this nearest to it. instance to be in or nearest to the middle of the room; then the line bb bisecting it at right angles should be drawn, and this will divide the floor, as nearly as can be, into four equal parts. On either side
difference will
2l8
FLOORS.
of the line BB draw other lines parallel to it, and each one at the distance of 7 inches (or width of plank) from its neighbour line, until the whole floor is
means of a plough, a straightedge being fixed on the floor as a guide. The plough used for making the grooves for some kinds of glazing would probably be the best.
it
marked
out in squares.
My
carpenter called
its
This being done, the actual work of a simple pattern like the part marked A C E D, might be begun at once ; but for the more elaborate border part it will
a "
filister,"
name
cut-
be necessary
borders
to
mark in
verse lines, the operator will not, however, attempt to start from, or continue the line to, the outside of the
pattern, but will leave one square at least at either
F, F and G, G, as well as the centres for the black pegs in the intermediate portions. When all
end, to be cut in
by hand with a
chisel.
Indeed,
all
A
,
S ' '
C
f
1 r ' r
1
F
a
B
i P
ft
( I
a
t
(
e e
e
&
*
ft
>
i>
a
9
1
e
a
Willi
'
'
II
e
>
1
B
D
E
fl
F
%
B B
H B
a n a B B
e
O
a
111
e
lllllll
C
.
may be
The
lines,
first
viz.,
all
the boards have not been well seasoned the joints will
the lines will be best cut in with this tool if the boards be "shakey" and inclined to splinter, or if the floor be uneven. A good sharp V chisel, or dividing tool, if the operator has one, will be found of service. Where the joints are very close, it will be sufficient to cut in the cross lines deeply with a knife, and follow indeed, a crayon this up with a hard black crayon
open g of an inch or more, but we be the average width of opening fairly seasoned floor of these days.
may
consider
-re
to
in the joints of
Where
the floor
is
level,
should be drawn along all the incised lines, so as to give them the dark appearance of the old joint-lines, or a stain may be used for this purpose. The transverse and other right lines being cut in,
to
make
FLOORS.
219
and
for
this
work
be
to
centre-bits
of
various
sizes
should
used,
except
be bored on a joint-line, as in the part of the design marked A c E D. Here an auger would be better, as the joint-line would furnish
I
\
-e-
I
9
no steady centre for the point of the bit. Whatever tool is used, sharpness is indispensable, as the holes must be bored smooth and round. The pegs must of course be of such
FIG. 2.
I
BINED.
DECORATION
ONLY.
to
WITH PEGS
;
diameter
as
to
require
driving
into
FIG. 3.
found best
\/
will
ning
"
may be
Co
off
superfluous
moisture
with
and then
them
piece of blotting-paper.
\/
0 0
stained
contrast
; but mahogany, walnut, or any dark-coloured wood, may be used with good effect. Stained pegs will
00
this,
however, be
left
tolerably
stain
after
being levelled
given,
off.
In the patterns
page
o
106,
Vol.
I.,
of
Amateur
1
may
F.
Work,
In Fig.
the
this stained
indeed, though
trouble,
in-
a very
much
9
9 \ /
margin.
In case a plank instead of a jointline occupies lengthwise the
may be
got by using
4 >r
middle
in
and
'A
6
il/i
FIG. 6.
of the sub-border g
cut
in,
G should be
used, "run3, 4, 5
inter-
or a stain.
The
other illustrations
Figs.
2,
9 9
9 e
9 9
9 9
/ / / / /
/ / / / /
/ / / / /
9 9 9 9 9
9 9 e
be carried out in this work. In three of them a little additional chisel- work is introduced, by which considerable relief may be given. Without doubt, by the aid of the chisel and knife-file, a pattern,
dispensing with
altogether,
9\
e
9
long
transverse
lines
e e
9
FIG.
4.
might be carried out with pegs a design based upon the joint-line only, as in Fig. 6. This, however, I have never seen tried, but those for which directions have been given above have been carried out with remarkably good
/0 9/ \0
e
FIG.
5.
e e
WORK COMBINED.
effect.
CHISEL
220
JOINTING
WOOD
IN
not
harm
it.
Now
inch
By JOSEPH COWAN.
rub the finger along the paper, so as to smooth and even both glue and paper, and smooth it nicely down
on the
kind
ing,
;
TREATMENT.
joint, so as not to leave a wale or ridge of any use a bit of candle to prevent the fingers stick-
LTHOUGH
known
to
veneers and veneering is be thirty-three centuries old comparatively little is known or understood outside the craft in which they are used, very beautiful results are
for laying.
and so disturb the paper. When dry, it is ready All veneers must be thoroughly dry before laying, else they will pull hollow, and have a very damaging effect.
Butt-jointing Curls.
so
This
is
rather
a
;
ticklish
simple, indeed,
job,
and
ill
understood, even by
workmen
but the
surprising
how
little is
result,
when
All curls
in these
known
place,
that
same
and
much
in the
some call them) are cut into veneers, wood cannot be used in any other way they are of two kinds, Spanish and Cuban. The Spanish generally very superior is the Cuban is strong, figured in the centre, and plain and pale on the edges.
(or feathers, as
as the
at
There are three or four ways of butt-jointing curls way is by crossing the
First flatten about 7
tool-shops)
size, until
make
or
he arrives
the
wood
cauls
which
veneer
split),
is
acme of
veneering.
When
once the
when
is cut to the size of your work (but here let me show you the best way of cutting it, as it is so liable to
so liable to crack
joint both
flat
and buckle with the fire; on shooting-board, keepnatural position if you wish them
mark
to
your
size,
wood nor anything underneath then cut the lengthway of the wood
damp one
inch of
wood from
with a steel point or marker, against a straight-edge ; the cross-cuts do with a fine dovetail saw. If this is
be close
tack
in the
middle and
When
wood
it
attended
plain
knife.
to,
Very
shot to a joint,
try,
wood may be
cut with a chisel or shoemaker's Burr walnut veneers can be cut with scissors
inches wide,
turn
down on flat board, take a piece of warm (not hot), and glue on
over to see
if
to the joint
to advantage.
woods are straight enough for laying, but some are buckled, and some cockled, especially French burr walnut (this is largely used in pianos). The treatment for " burr " is size on both
Straightening.
:
Most
and
your joint
in
may proceed
you This time you must the middle only, and glue
is
perfection,
if
so
when
between hot plates of metal (zinc is the best) or hot pieces of wood, called cauls. This should be done in the whole veneer, and cut after.
Jointing.
size,
bungling at the
critical
moment.
Now
you
may more
cauls
If
Have two
the
wood
;
is
flowery,
is
effect
such as
if
seen in centre-table
off in the cutting, or
ought to be larger than the veneer, as the heat leaves the edges first, and if
the glue gets set at the edges,
;
for
it
will
not
move
freely
came
book-leaf fashion, put a nick in each end, so as it may be seen if they shift out of their natural position, and
so spoil the matching of the figure at the joint.
Now
make your
and shooting a true joint, edge and edge, on a flat board and if so, temporarily fasten them on said board with small cut tacks, taking care that the joint is up close. If one buckles up past the other, a fine tack po ted in will
joint
straight,
by cutting
Now
from the centre the result is lumpy, bad work), and hot as fire can make them as before, have your handscrews set to the size get help, and the quicker you get them on (one at a time) the better the work. Begin at the centre, and work out to the ends before cauling raise the veneer and glue the ground well, see
; ;
Now
being screwed up, see there is no slackness in any one of the handscrews, for much depends on the uniformity of the pressure.
Leave
to cool for
two hours.
221
be
closed,
wood
floor for
voir, and,
valves in
and the air within it driven into the reseron allowing the feeder again to descend, the the reservoir would close and prevent the
air, whilst, at
return of the
the
same
when
face,
toothed plane.
As
on the
it is desirable to damp the ground on both sides, and before quite dry size the face side, and this ought to be done so that the damping and the sizing are not quite dry at the time of laying. To insure good work veneering should be two or three weeks in a dry,
warm
this
off.
The
neglect of
be driven into the reservoir at the next up-stroke of the feeder. In the top board of the reservoir a safetyvalve is placed, which, on the folds rising to a certain height, is opened by a string, and thus prevents any danger of the bellows bursting from too much air being forced into them, as the surplus air would escape at this valve. Weights are placed on this top
board, and these give the necessary pressure to drive
the air out of the reservoir, through the wind-trunks
into the wind-chest of the sound-board.
left
out any-
thing of importance, he will readily answer any answerable questions, or otherwise advise and assist any amateur who may be desirous of conquering the
so-called secrets or handicraft of
The
folds of
wood
jointing.
be equal, no matter whether the bellows are wide open or nearly closed. If the folds were both inside or both outside folds, the pressure would be constantly varying. With this brief introduction, I now go on
to
with
for
5
my
instructions for
making the
1
bellows.
HARK
First, then,
WICKS.
prepare some
Y>w
IV, THE BELLOWS,
4/
the framings,
and cut
it
inches wide.
The
top frame
and
2 feet wide,
and the
size.
next, or floating,
E now
exactly the
same
bellows,
4 feet 9 inches long, and 2 feet 3 inches wide, and should be made of ii inch stuff, as it bears all the
play upon.
same
thickness,
or the valves imperfect in action, or the leather joints too tight, so as to cause squeaking, they would be a
by mitring
never-ending source of annoyance both to the performer and the audience. By carefully following the
instructions
will, I
the corners, and then cutting a groove in each, as shown in Fig. yj. They are then glued together with
in the grooves, thus
joint.
which
will
a tongue of oak or mahogany, cross way of the grain, forming a strong and air-tight
able article.
The tongues
are
an idea of the general appearance of a reservoir with two feeders, as seen from the back. The upper portion consists of two distinct folds or sets of ribs, the upper set folding outwards and the lower set folding inwards. These ribs are fastened to framings, or boards the top one marked A, being called the top board B, the floating frame C, the middle board, and D, the trunk-band. The feeder boards are marked E. In Fig. 51 you have a section of the bellows across the feeder, and this view being on a larger scale, shows every detail of the construction, both inside and out. You will notice that there is a set of valves on the top of the feeder board, and another set on the top of the middle board, both sets opening upwards. In its normal position, the feeder would hang down, so that it would be open to its fullest extent, and filled with air. On pressing the blower down, the feeder would
A glance at
and if the wood shrinks at all, they are not air-tight. Having completed these framings, now make the trunk-band, which is made of 1 inch pine 3I inches wide, and forms a sort of tray when glued and screwed The outside meain its place on the middle board. sure of this band is 4 feet 6 inches long and 2 feet wide, being exactly the same size as the floating
frame.
It
the corners, the holes for the wind-trunks being cut in the back of it before it is put together. The holes
for the wind-trunk for the
sound-board
is
shown
in
the centre, and those for the pedal wind-trunks on each side of it. It must, however, be borne in mind
that the wind-trunks
may be
may be most
convenient.
222
In a two-manual instrument having separate windtrunks, the wind-trunk for the great sound-board is at one end, and that for the swell sound-board at the
other.
is
however needed,
if
one
The top it is, for it is nothing but a frame. frame should have an inch board prepared for it about 4 feet long, and I foot 7 inches wide, with a hole about of it, for 5 inches by 3 inches cut through the centre
Scale,
ij inches to
foot.
These boards
will
be screwed down
is
them very true, and then bore four f inch thick, plane The sets of six holes in each, as shown in Fig. 38.
holes
all
complete,
is
so
much
easier to glue
may be
made
about ij inch diameter, and should be with a centre bit. The floating frame is left
places
when
Now
the framings only are there. prepare 16 pieces of pine \ inch or | inch
223
FIG. 35.
1
Scale, & in. to I
ft.
FIG. 42.
Ig
FIG. 47.
METHOD
full size.
OF JOINING THE
RIBS.
Half
FIG. 36.
Scale, h
in. to I ft.
FIG.
FIG. 48.
PUFF VALVE.
ft.
Scale, 1^ ins. to 1
FIG. 3S.
PLAN
OF VALVE BOARD.
-Z.F7FIG.
FIG. 37.
METHOD
OF MAKING JOINT
FIG.
FIG. 45.
RIBS
FIG. 41.
b - -^
v
Fir. 49.
PIG.
Size.
F(
i\/.a.
224
thick
You will
:
require
top fold
fold
in
and eight short ones those for the are shown in Fig. 42, and those for the lower
Fig.
43,
Now see that the inside edges of the top frame and of the floating frame exactly correspond, then take
some
strips of leather
and
fold
length required.
gussets
Be
the centre, and glue the top half of them on to the underside of the top frame close to the inner edge all
when
as
in use.
all
round, so that the other half of the strips hang down, and proceed in the same way with the top side of the
floating
When
of
47.
frame,
them
shown
46 and
etc.,
Do
exactly the
same with
the
We will
It
now go on
of
this is finished.
under side of the floating frame, but close to the outer edge, and also on the top of the trunk-band, but
using tape instead of leather for these.
dry,
fix
must be understood that each joint in the ribs is made by a strip of linen, or, what is better still, of Venetian blind tape on the inside and a strip of leather on the outside. You will commence by laying each pair of ribs together on a board, or on top of your bench, as shown in Figs. 44, 45, and 46, leaving a space of \ inch between them, and fasten them down with a small French nail at each end, so
that they cannot shift. Now glue a strip of blindtape over the two ribs of each set in the upper fold,
When
by
this is
the
ribs
into
their
places
gluing
and a
for
strip of leather
will
fold,
way with
one
and boiling
hot,
and the
wide, and pared down at each edge on the soft side. A very useful tool for rubbing the strips down so as to squeeze out all superfluous glue can be made by fitting a piece of thin ivory such as is used for covering the manual
into strips about i inch
The section Fig. 51 shows the positions of the tape and leather for every joint, so I think a little study of the diagram will make clear to the amateur, what it is rather difficult to describe in writing. Care must be
taken not to
let
woodwork of
keys
into a saw cut in the end of a piece of wood, about 6 inches long and 2 inches wide. The other
tape touch each other about \ inch. Leaving the reservoir for the present, we will now take up the
feeders.
A bowl
off the
of each feeder
is
formed by a
same
as
superfluous glue
The
leather
must
all
dry, fold
is
shown
Fig. 47
(which
an endwise
measures 2 feet 2 inches in length, and 2 feet in width. The back piece is 6 inches wide, the front piece 8 inches, and each side is 6 inches wide thus leaving an opening 14 inches long and 10 inches wide, which is covered by a valve board 17 inches long and 13 inches wide, to be screwed on when all is complete in Each valve the same manner as the other boards are.
;
comes
a good plan to place a strip of wood or cardboard about J inch thick between the lower edges of the
ribs as at C, to
performed.
well
Now
all
board to have four sets of six holes I \ inch diameter, to be covered by valves as described hereafter. The ribs of the feeders are to be made of \ inch pine, the end ones being as shown in Fig. 40, 2 feet long on the longest side, and I foot long on the shortest, and are The side ribs are triangular, and all 5 j inches wide.
rather
41.
it
down on
and glue a strip of tape in a similar way on to the ribs that have been leathered. This leathering or taping is shown by the black line on the top of the bevels in Fig. 47. You have now each pair of ribs joined all along the centre by a piece of leather on the outside, and a piece of tape on the inside, and as the two ribs are g- inch apart the hinge works very easily.
feet
more difficult to set out they are shown in Fig. draw on a board two parallel lines, about 2 long and 5 inches apart. From a point at one
;
First
foot
7-I
line,
now measure a length of I foot II inches from same point down to the lower line, and draw a
joining the two points
side.
:
the
line
Join the
foot 11
225
complete.
then be complete.
leathering will
valves, take a
now be
Now
to
form the
Make
ribs
good
from the pointed ends, for these must not extend right to the hinges of the feeders. Proceed with the leathering and taping of each pair of ribs in just the same way as you did with those for the reservoir. Now plane up two strips of J inch pine 2i inches wide, and bevel them off, and glue and screw them on to the inside of the feeder boards where the hinges are to come, and fix similar pieces on to the middle board immediately over them. The feeder boards may now be hinged on to the middle board by four strips of stout webbing to each. Fasten the strips with glue and tacks, the ends to be one inside and the other outside, in exactly the same way as the webbing hinges are put on a clothes horse. Or you may bore some holes through the feeder frame and middle board, and draw some stout sash-line through and fray out the ends and glue them down, driving wedges into the holes to make a good strong job of it. In either form of hinge it
off about 3 inches
is
and glue another piece on to it, so that the soft sides You must not forget to scratch the are both outside.
grainy side of the leather with glass-paper, or the
Pass a warm iron over this and between two flat boards to dry. When dry rub it well on both sides with a round stick to take out the stiffness, and then cut it up into pieces just large enough to cover a set of six holes with an overNow cut some narrow strips lap of \ inch all round. of leather and glue on to each corner of the valve, and then tack the other corner tightly down on to the
gluing will not hold.
it
place
This valve
for
it is
is
shown
in Fig. 49,
and
is
it
in
my
opinion
held
down
at
each corner.
The
and
necessary to glue a strip of leather both inside outside, along the edge of the feeder board.
ribs
shown in Fig. 48, and is made in much the same way of two thicknesses of leather, but the upper thickness does not cover the portion marked F, which forms the hinge. This hinge is glued down on to the valve board, and a strip of thin wood is bradded over
valve
is
it
glued into their places with strips of tape and leather, as described for the reservoir.
The
may now be
is
it
from blowing right over. This sometimes curls up, and I much
Before fixing the valves
cut the holes through
prefer that
described.
Fig. 51 will
show
exactly
how
is
arranged.
when dry
The
to
up the
by means of gusset pieces, both and the feeders. To get the sizes and shapes of the gussets, open the bellows until the holes at the corners show their greatest possible size, both in height and width, and cut a paper pattern to the requisite shape, which is of a diamond form, allowing it to be large enough to lay on the wood at least an inch all round. Having satisfied yourself
the ribs
in the reservoir
comers of
bed
The
valve boards
may now be
respective places,
make
all air-tight.
is
The
safety valve
a piece of
f-
covers,
and
it
is
The
back
number
is
glued
down on
to the
the edges
well
all
round.
will
not held.
Rub them
underside of the top board, and have a fillet of wood bradded over it. The valve is kept closed by a wire
spring as shown in Fig. 51, and is opened by means of a string, which is fastened to a staple in the middle
down with
ribs,
superfluous glue.
Where
will
the folds
come
in the centres
of the
you
when
the glue
is
board, and brought through the safety valve and knotted outside. If you allow the bellows to rise 8 or 9 inches it will be ample.
Then
cut
some
strips of leather
4 inches
Proceed
the
This
gluing
it is
patience, for
Cut out four small triangular shaped pieces and glue in one on each side of the feeder ribs over the gap at the hinge end, and the
for the inexperienced.
You will now see that in consequence of the way which the bellows is made you have only to take out a few screws in order to get at any part of the In the old style interior should anything go wrong. of bellows with solid boards instead of framings, the only way to get at the valves was by ripping up the bellows, and I well remember my disgust when I had to perform that awful operation on the first bellows which I made, and the waste of time and material in
in
repairing the
226
The
it
to
work
silently,
and a
strip of
of the bellows
On
the front
two on each
and one in the centre of each end. In order to enable you to take out the valve boards
necessary, you must
upwards, has a flat piece of wood, shaped to receive the foot, on top of it. This arm should be placed in the most convenient position for pressing with the foot.
projects, sloping
arm
and
when
make some
;
of these sup-
When
making them
in
two parts
the portion
marked
2 to
be dovetailed into
it,
so that
rather
can be
oblong-
The wind-trunks
are square, or
shaped tubes made of \ inch pine, and mitred at the They are connected to the wind-chest or bends. trunk-band by means of a flange plate, which is a flat piece of mahogany, about 3 inches longer at each end than the length of the opening, and about \ inch wider on each side than the width of it, and an opening the size of the interior of the wind-trunk
is
cut in
Thus,
if
of the
the foot is pressed on this the other arm rises and closes the feeder, and when the pressure is withdrawn the feeder falls again. that It is obvious by altering the position of the arms the blower can be made to work either right or left of the performer. Fig. 54 shows a hand-blower, which is required where pedals are used. It is simply a flat bar of wood or metal, centred on the building frame or other convenient place, and cords hang down at equal distances from the centre, and are hooked into staples projecting from the centre of the feeder frame. One end of the bar is extended and formed into a convenient handle, or the handle may be made separate and slipped into a pair of staples on the top of the bar when in use, and unshipped when not
required.
wind-trunk is 13 inches by 2 J inches, the flange plate would be about 19 inches by 4.5 inches. The windtrunk
is
The
feeder
when one
up the other
is
down.
is
as
shown
in
no
Fig. 51.
The
plate
is
screwed
to the wind-chest or
may
may
be,
and a thickness of
show themselves.
The
are
it
bellows,
when
complete,
as
may be
painted or
to taste,
but the
bellows
is
a pair of regulators
needed.
work should be
left
I
it is.
One
of these
shown
flat
in Fig. 50,
and
consists of
In
my
next chapter
three pieces of
wood, or metal, jointed together. The long piece is centred on the floating frames, the top short piece on to the top frame, and the lower All the centres short piece on to the trunk-band.
9,
10
work
loosely.
The
other regulator
is
placed at the
opposite direction.
The
bellows,
feeder,
if if
a small one,
preferred,
only one
V. MILLBOARDS DRAWING
CUTTING.
IN,
PRESSING,
AND
length of the bellows, and hinged either at the front as described, or at one end.
HERE
are a great
number of
different
would be better to make the bellows as wide as the combined width of the two sound-boards, as the larger
they are the better.
will
The
vary in quality and price so much, that perhaps be better if it is left it will d of to the amateur to select what kind
apply just the same, the only alteration being in views of a foot-blower are given in Figs.
It
the dimensions.
board he wishes to use. But a few words about them may not be
out of place.
Two
and
53.
51
those
may be fixed frame or screwed to the floor. An arm, with a little wheel at the end of it, extends from the back of the roller in such a position that the wheel comes directly under the centre line of the
feeder.
sacks
The best boards are made from old rope and the blacker, harder, and
with an india-
smoother the board, the better. rl * 2G .1 TH ,;?KNES ES of boards. These, the amateur will find, are very hard to cut, and when two are pasted together,. and are allowed to get quite dry, are almost like pieces A grey Price, from 30s. to 32s. per cwt. of iron.
227
left free, is
used with
the right hand, and the board to be cut is held with the left. The price is from 16s. to ,1 10s. The
will
amateur should procure one of these, otherwise he have to cut his boards up by hand, and this he will
find very laborious.
In bind-
millboard
cutting-machines,
power
up into various
rapidity.
E, Knnner. B B, Boards of
book.
After
having
chosen
the
to
book.
Eadie,
the cutting
side termed
runner,
and
Bride
and
others),
another called
a cut-against
Both, howto save the
cut,
SECTION
and a
is
The
thick-
piece
of
old
millboard
so
that the
plough-
eightpenny
The
rale
to
fig. 28.
the thickness
and size of the book must determine the A is secured between cheeks of press B B. rests on
;
knocking-down iron.
up
to the
off,
thickness
;
of
the
then
the
mered.
lowered
press,
the
be about Eightpenny for thin 8vo books and i2mos x for ordinary 8vos; xx
will
he
right:
edge of the runner being level with the edge of the press,
the portion to cut
off will naturally be above the press, the whole to be screwed up tightly. When
cut, the other three
4tos
for
folios.
sides
must be cut
to proper size.
The
is
a,
knife.
requisite
width
he must remember that the thin board (if he is pasting two boards of unequal thickness) should always go nearest the book. With regard to the implements employed for cutting the boards up, we have, first, the
large, or
obtained by extending the compasses from the back of the book to the edge of the smallest bolt or fold in the fore-edge, the boards are knocked up even,
compassed
up, that
is,
mark
is
point of the compasses in the boards, measuring from the back edge of the board just cut, the runner is
is
228
next to be
the
and marking
;
boards are cut as before up to the mark. The length is now taken from the head of the book to the tail, and in this some judgment is required. If the book has
already been cut, the boards must be somewhat larger
Leave the books in the books cannot have too much pressing: this the amateur will find out. A book that has been well pressed is always solid, and always feels better than one that is flabby and loose. The next process is cutting and let me here repress as long as possible
; ;
mark
that
it
is
my
reader has a
It
will
The boardshavingbeen
in the boards.
made
The
knife
blunt.
if
touched up when blunt, smooth edge if the The knife must be straight in the
knife
is
may be
boards are laid on the book with their backs in the groove and level with the head, they are then marked
either with a lead pencil or the
plough, for
the
not
absolutely straight,
point of a bodkin
Having
that
is
this in
may be
cut
by
lowering;
down
head
is
Holes are then made in the board with a short bodkin, on the lines made about half an inch away from the edge, the board is then turned over, and
the board.
be cut
put
between the lined board and book, so that the knife, when through the book, may not cut the board of the
book.
a second hole made about half an inch at right angles from the first one. The holes are made by placing the board on a piece of wood and hammering the bodkin through the board, one sharp blow is generally enough. The boards being holed, the slips must be scraped,
The book
is
is
now lowered
The head
of the
book
to
now
off
and tapered or pointed. Draw them first hole made and back through the second. Tap them slightly when the board is down to prevent them from slipping and getting loose. When all are drawn in cut the ends of the slips close to the board with a knife, and well hammer them down on the knocking-down iron (Fig. 28), to make the board close on the slips and hold them tight. The slips should be well and carefully hammered, as any projection will be seen with great distinctness when the book is covered. Care must be taken that the edge of the
pasted
slightly,
be cut
exposed above
is
it.
Both
be
perfectly true, as
very
great
is not screwed up evenly run of jagging or tearing the paper instead of cutting. The book is cut by drawing the plough gently to and fro. Each time it is brought towards the workman, a slight amount of turn is given
and evenly.
risk
is
to the
if
too
much
turn
is
given
hammer
slips.
paper,
and
The top
edge being
the
tail cut.
book
is
pressing
A mark is
made on
and
the board
is
stand-
lowered until the mark is on a level with The book is again put into the press,
this
work
in
bookbinder's shops,
all
with the back towards the workman, until the board is flush with the cheek of the press ; this will expose
as explained on
up the press as
The back
now
to
above the press the amount to be taken off tail, and the left-hand board will be exactly distance above the press as the right-hand below the cut top. The tail is then cut in
from the
the
same
is
board
the
same
allowed to stand for a few minutes to soften the glue then, with a piece of wood with a flat end, or the back
of the
way
is
rubbed
off,
In cutting the fore-edge (Fig. 29), to which we must now come, always have the head of the book towards you, so that, if not cut straight, you know exactly
dry
if
paste or glue
other
where the fault lies. The fore-edge is marked both back and front of the book by placing a cutting-board under the first two or three leaves, as a support, then using the millboard on the book as a guide, a line is
IT.
229
Case books are
is
head and tail. The book back on the press, quite flat, and trindles are placed between the boards and the book, by letting the boards fall back from the book, and then passing one trindle at the head, the other at the tail, allowing the top and bottom slip to go in the
is
pierced,
its
now knocked,
with
not cleaned off in binder's shops, the price as a rule, not allowing for any more work done than
necessary. absolute
at
When
bought
is
any
all
glued on
it
the back. Place the book in the press, glue the back
Trindles are
flat
pieces of
to
shape of an elongated U, about \\ inch wide and 3 or 4 inches long, with a slot nearly the whole length. The object of this is to force the back up quite flat, and by holding the book when the cutagainst and runner is on it, supported by the other hand under the boards, it can be at once seen if the
that
paper or writing-paper on the back, and rub down well with a thick folding stick allow this to dry, and when dry, cut off the overplus of paper from the sides,
cut is used for pasting down both paper and mull flush with head and tail. I have not said anything about colouring the edge, this
book
the
is
straight or not.
The
cut-against
runner the distance under the holes that the is intended to be. The book being lowered into the press, the runner is put flush with
will
amount of square
form my next paper, but should be done when the edges are cut. The book is now placed on the case,
all
same distance above the press as the runner is below the holes. The trindles must be taken out from the book when the cutting-boards are in their proper place, the millboards will then fall down. The book and cutting-boards must be held very tightly, or the
book
will slip.
now torn away, the whole pasted, and the board laid down on the book, pressing it into the joint or groove when laying down. The book is now turned over, the other side treated the same way
end-papers
is
;
up
to the
When
must be
dry.
If these directions
screwed up tightly and the fore-edge ploughed. The book when cut should have the same curve in the
fore-edge as the back, and
if
of
my reader will have a fairly bound copy Amateur Work, quite as strong as any case book
a proper square
all
This method
is
known
;
as cutting in boards.
done when the book is cased the cutting is done when the book is flat or square, that is before it is rounded, and as the first Volume of this magazine is now complete, and should the amateur binder wish to bind his copy in the case or cover supplied by Messrs. Ward, Lock, and Co., he can do so by buying his case from them, then getting his copy collated. As far as I can see it will not be necessary to refold the sheets, they appear to be all right, at least I can speak of my own copy follow the
Cutting out of boards
;
To
be continued?)
<*>
THE VIOLIN
By
HOW
TO MAKE
IT.
EDWARD BERON-ALLEN.
IN FIDDLE-MAKING.
at length, in the
I.THE
HAVE
now enumerated
:
or pressing
cut, the
down
size
;
to
Is,"
the scientific
gluing up
the
taken
from the case with a pair of compasses take the exact size of the boards from the back edge to the front edge of the board, this will give the exact size
for cutting thefore-edge.
am now
Great care must be exercised book is perfectly square when in the press, or the book will not be cut straight. Of course, the runner and cut-against must be used, placing the runner to the marks made by the compass and level to the press. When cut, the book must be rounded, the size, head and tail, is again taken from the case, allowing for squares, head and tail, when cut; the book is backed as explained in page 39, Vol. II.; it may
that the
world of violinists at large, I going in detail into the practice of actual fiddle-making, and hope to be understood by my readers in proportion to the amount of pains which I
have taken to render myself so. I shall proceed as if I were actually working with the reader, and he were using my moulds, models, and tools, with a view to which I have given outlines of all the former actual
size, so that they need only be traced or cut out and pasted on slips of wood for immediate use. By way of introduction I give in this chapter drawings and de-
then be cleaned
off in
scriptions
of
all
to
the
230
fiddle-maker's atelier, which
THE
VIOLIN:
HO IV TO MAKE
mer you
used
will
IT.
is
must be high and light. The mould I have chosen, and which will be represented in a Supplement to be given with the next Part
of this Magazine,
is
want
in joining
by watchmakers
rough work.
is
We now
to one's
and
all
which
with this mould, being most carefully and accuratelytaken from the same fiddle. It must be observed
ways of doing many of the operaby which a fiddle grows under our hands and if time and space will allow, I shall embody these into a supplementary chapter after we have worked through the whole process, and, if it is considered
that there are two
tions
;
hand before commencing to work, and these I shall enumerate and describe in the order in which they are mentioned and required in the following chapter on the actual manual labour required in fiddlemaking. 1. The Toothed Plane-This is a small iron plane, like what are known as the ordinary American planes, whose edge, instead of being smooth like an ordinary
plane,
1.
is
an
inside
its
models and
Scrapers.
outlines in facsimile.
One
science of fiddle-making
Many
any cabinet-
shown in Fig. 2, three inches broad, whose upper side is rounded at the corners, whose lower side is kept Several should be prepared, quite straight and flat. and they must be kept very sharp, being held in a
hand-vice whilst being ground.
maker's shop, such as saws, planes, chisels, etc., of the ordinary patterns but there are certain original
;
They
are sharpened
side,
and modifications of the common ones which must form part of the lares and penates of the fiddlemaker, and it will be to the consideration of these
tools
by bevelling one side as at a, along the flat round the curved side as at b b, for getting
inaccessible to the
flat
and
at places
that
we
are
now about to turn our attention. Firstly, common tools, a large saw, a tenon saw,
;
bow saw of the ordinary forms are required a Jong or trying plane, a small or smoothing plane, and a set of carving gouges and chisels. The workshop must be fitted with an ordinary bench with a vice
and a
affixed to
it,
and to by holding the side not in use, instead of sharpening the flat and curved side of each scraper, some may be sharpened on one side and some on the other if you have During use they are kept keen by means of plenty. a sharpening steel, Fig. 5, which is a round plain
side.
If preferred,
bar of
handle.
steel,
wood and
other
To
re-set
in
fiddle-maker's
the flat side and then down the bevel, repeating the process once, when, unless the steel wants regrinding, it will be found to have altered any slight
down
workshop.
my
* vs>
To>
Two or three of these must be at 3. Knives. Their blades hand, fixed in good strong handles. should be fine and well tempered, and they must be
kept thoroughly keen, Fig.
4.
3.
bows
for fine
measurements and
for the
One some
for fixing
wood,
the bench
when
in use.
is merely a bradawl sharpened to a fine point for marking exact outlines with, which would be difficult with a pencil. The Betiding Iron. This is used for bending 5. the sides, and though called a " bending iron," like a
Marking Point.This
A small
on and
it
is
best
made
of copper.
It
is
a medium-sized hand-vice. The ordinary whetstones and sharpening media must be provided. A glue pot
of the
common
like
one made of
Many
violin-makers use
brown leaves from Cologne. An ordinary cutting and marking gauge will be required, and also a set of files of the sections shown at Fig. 12. The only ham-
formed (Fig. 4) of a bar bearing at one end the oval mass a, at the end of which is the narrower round piece b. The object of this shape will appear Another and perhaps better form is reprelater on. sented at Fig. 6, and is crutch-shaped. It is fixed in a hole in the bench when in use. This is used in letting the 6. "Lining" Chisel. linings into the blocks, and is an ordinary chisel, only X5 of an inch broad, as in Fig. 7, sharpened to ar
n
II.
231
THE
VIOLIN:
HO W TO MAKE
/
IS,
FIG. 7.
FIG. 5.
FIG.
6. BENDING IRON
(Another form).
LINING
chisel.
sharpening
-
STEEL.
FIG.
I. IRON CRAMP.
FIG. 2.
A (*E|p
FIG. 3.
SCRAPER.
KNIFE.
FIG.
4.
BENDFIG. 13.
ING IRON.
GAUGING
CALLIPERS.
FIG.
15.
B
FIG.
8.
SOUND-BAR CRAMP.
A, View of Top.
View of Bottom.
Ik'
FIG. 12.
SEC-
TIONS OF FILES.
FIG. 9.
FIG. II.
SOUNDPOST SETTERS.
e
r,
B
FIG. 18.
BOW
FIG.
COMPASSES.
FIG. 16.
VIOLINFIG. 19.
SCREW.
ANOTHER FORM
OF PURFLING TOOL.
{
FIG. 20.
OBLONG PLANE.
FIG. 22.
View
of Bottom.
FIG. 21.
232
7.
THE
"
VIOLIN:
HOW TO MAKE
a model.
the head.
IT.
Oval Planes." A set of these will be required model or arching, and the scooping out of the back and belly. They must be in three sizes, the largest and smallest of which are represented actual size by Figs. 8 and 9, there being also an intermediate size. You will want two of each size, one of each size having the under surface plane as in Fig. 9, and one of each size having the under surface
for finishing the
They
when
chiselling
curved as in Fig. 8. The edges of the irons, as will be seen, must be toothed, the brittle nature of the maple and the tenderness of the pine rendering this
necessary.
8.
Spring Compasses.
Fig.
10,
these, as at
You will want two pairs of one pair having one leg just
The
other ordinary as
This (Fig. 17) is an ebony 15. Purfling Gauge. gauge composed of an ordinary stem a, rounded at one side as at B, which bears a sliding beam C, one end of which, bearing the cutter E, and its wedge F, is rounded as at D. The cutter E is made fast at any distance from the stem A by knocking the wedge G into the opening cut to receive it. It is used for tracing the lines of the purfling round the edge. Another form of purfling tool shown me, and recommended by Mr. Hill, is represented at Fig. 19, and its object and construction will be readily understood by looking at the cut. Doubtless it is very certain, but it lacks the " sympathy " (if I may be allowed the expression) of the ebony one, Fig. 17, as it goes round
the edges of the fiddle.
16.
a. f Hole Piercing Tools or Punches These are two punches, represented at Fig. 22, and used for
piercing the round holes at either end of the//holes> and are therefore of two diameters, indicated at B and
of this
Purfling Chisel ox Picker Fig. 21. The shape is shown at A, and enlarged to actual size at
It is
used for
C in the figure. They are hollow cylinders of steel, having the open end ground to a fine circular edge, and having, about an inch up the bore a round hole
;
wood between
made
in the side a,
whence
to pick out
filling
almost actual
and
is
Oblong Plane. This, which is represented size by Fig. 20, is made entirely in steel, used more properly for bow-making, but you
it
Gauging Callipers
fiddle-making.
determining the thicknesses of the back and belly. consist of a frame A, somewhat like that of a fret-saw and a moveable arm B, which is attached to A by a hinge c. This arm carries a metal plate D
for
They
up and repairs
in the chapters
I
sixteenths of an inch down the straight which passes through, and work in, a slot cut in the upper arm of the frame A, and which is of such a
side,
marked with
length that
is
shut close
down on
to
on the lower arm of a. The tip of D can be set and maintained at any required distance from E (as marked by its own scale), by screwing the screw F, which permits this distance to be adjusted very exactly and accurately.
11.
arrangements with Mr. W. E. Hill of 72, Wardour Street, London, W., to supply at the prices quoted, all
the tools required in the following chapters and described in
this.
He
my
readers with
wood from
own
seasoned
store, as follows
Violin
Screws Fig.
to the sides
16.
for
Wood.
j.
fixing the
back
and the
belly similarly.
d.
s.
d.
Maple block
for
neck and
.
scroll
.
from
o
2
2
6 to 6 to 6 to
o o
o o
12.
These wooden
strongly resembling clothes-pegs, are used to keep the bar in position in the belly when
contrivances,
Maple Maple
for
back
6 to 10
2
for ribs
being
13.
fitted.
are
.
.
6 to
Fig. 15, which are used to fix the tion when glued into the belly.
enough
for
one violin
06
.
cramping a bar into its place. 14. Boiv Compasses-Fig. 18 are required for copying and registering diameters when working from
in
used
toothed iron
.80
2
s.
d.
Steel-scrapers (Fig. 2)
the pair
OVERGLAZE PAINTING ON PORCELAIN
Sharpening steel for ditto (Fig. Small chisel for linings (Fig. 7) Spring-compasses (Fig. 10) Sound-post setter (Fig. 11) Gauging callipers (Fig. 13)
.
233
for
5)
.1 .1
3
1
instance,
when used
in
moderation
keeping water
it is
certainly
per pair
not in
its
proper place
when on
....
per pair
palette.
Ditto simpler
smudged.
12 2
Bow
Gum, when
dry,
(F:ig. 3)
Marking point Bending iron (Figs. 4 and 6) Oval planes (Figs. 8 and 9)
.
o
.
under heat, pulverise and mix with the paint, producing an unsatisfactory appearance. I recommend therefore that all such mediums as these be avoided.
32. Satisfactory
each each
each
7
5
Mediums.
oil
;
The
mediums which
The
set of three
.
IS
. .
kinds
spirit
and an
o
o
2
12
7 3
proper, the former, the thinning agent to render practicable the spreading of the
Sound-bar clips (Fig. 14) Sound-bar cramps (Fig. 15) Purfling gauge (Fig. 17) Purfling compass (Fig. 19) Small steel plane (Fig. 20)
.
each
mixed
oil
and paint
in
spirit
and and
oil
oil
//hole
the pair
10
(a.)
Turpentine.
Ordinary
oil
is
spirit
of turpentine
is, I
The
As
tools,
entire set
10s.
known
any
to require description.
It is
it is no part of a violin-maker's trade to sell and more than a great favour to part with his well selected and seasoned wood, which cannot be got,
procurable at
shop
in in
mixing their oil colours. This kind is not, however, always to be recommended for painting purposes, as
frequently
it
readers,
I
thus
who are thus saved much trouble, know will be working with the same
{To be continued.)
tools as myself.
it. The right kind for painting is the rectified spirit to be procured at an artist's material shop, where the price will probably be sixpence for a
little
This
spirit is
as
when
fresh,
or water.
This
BE TEGA.
and this
only, should
be used
in painting.
At the
same time the common turpentine, when quite clear, and clean, and white, answers very well, as has been
noticed in Sec. 28, for washing the brushes and palette
with,
etc.
EDIUMS. 30.
than
These are requisites, and upon the kind used and upon their quality depends, to an extent greater
is
and
for
oil
knife,
oil.
The
also
known
as fat
It is viscid,
much
generally
supposed,
the ap-
pearance of the
finished
work.
The
mediums
indicates,
name
of vehicles
turpentine by the
flatter
which
31.
it
means by
amateur, thus
the better
Mediums Several things have from time to time as vehicles, in fact, pretty well everything that, having some substance of its own and being adapted to be smoothly spread, would hold the pigment in suspension. Thus we find among
Unsatisfactory
been
tried
those not unfavourably mentioned occasionally, glycerine, syrup of the "golden" variety, and gum. The
thinning agent for use with these glycerine is a very good thing in
is
pour a little spirit of turpentine, say from a dessert to a small tablespoonful, according to the size and flatness of the saucer, and over the saucer place a layer of muslin, sufficiently close in texture to prevent dust getting to the turpentine, and yet not so close as to prevent evaporation. A very good plan is to place the saucer, mouth down, on the muslin, and cut the
latter with
make
a narrow
hem
water.
Now,
for
which
may be
its
place, as,
234
ment
will
fire
shown
free.
in Fig. 21.
glass-stoppers.
The plan
is,
on
getting a
new
be put
in a place
be
It
decant the whole into small bottles. When a large bottle is only half full, the oxygen of the air in it
attacks the turpentine with the formation of water
When
the spirituous
and
like
resin.
The most
in
useful are
little
drop bottles,
are
little
Fresh
spirit
is
which homoeopathic medicines usually put up, and which are furnished with a
those
spout.
may be
enough
(d.)
pour
off.
two shades one a rich amber, the other a dark brown, but both are alike in nature. The oil of tar corresponds to it in the
Tar.
spirit of tar is in
The
PAINTS.
General Composition. The colours used in painting upon china or earthenware are, for the most part, oxides of certain metals. In only a few cases
34.
same way
as the
oil
turpentine.
The
spirit
and copper and these are so used only when the natural sheen of
;
by those who object to the vapour of the turpentine as causing headache or affecting the throat. The spirits of turpentine and of tar are extremely volatile, the former being somewhat more so than the latter; and during the working, sufficient may pass off to render the paint somewhat troublesome to deal with. This difficulty is, however, only a slight one, and is easily overcome by the use of a little
(c.)
the metals is required, or in bronzes. The metal oxides having been rendered as nearly chemically pure as possible, are either singly or two or more in combination, and in the form of a powder intimately mixed with
triturated colourless glasses of varying composition,
The
mixture, as
times called.
is
some-
fluid oil,
but very
much
less volatile
ready for use, is an impalpable powder.* When this mixture of coloured oxide and colourless glass is, with the aid of the mediums which have been described, properly applied to the glazed ware, and the painted
mentioned
the other
spirits,
added
to
to a certain
degree of heat
in
is
desired to keep
its
to
counteract
drying or
is
given in Vol.
I,
page
to
186},
spirit.
we have seen
be a
Fat
oil is
mediums
too will
it
and
used
1,
in
excess
colouring matter
in
is
easy
it
suspended, and
in particles so fine as to
much
2, if
much must be
used,
blues,
few colours, however, such as the deep transparent and yellows from one source, are really, to a
It
may
more
when
paint,
much
that
rough, jagged, or
is
similar to that
presented
often be
when a
it
subjected to a
completely dissolved the colouring matter. China or enamel colours then, from their containing, as an essential constituent, a glass or flux of vitrifiable composition, are called vitrifiable pigments.
or less
35.
seen on
was made to bear, and which may common goods. The boiling oil
Home Manufacture
I
nection
may
bubbles and raises a thin film of paint. The paint subsides to the edge of the bubble, and when the
latter bursts there is left a
little if
quently been put to me, viz whether an amateur canThe answer is that in not make his own pigments. general it is quite possible for him to do so, but
its
much
with
whether
it
would be a
profitable undertaking
is
quite
round
33.
it.
another matter.
duction in
*
all
The
their perfection of
some
shall
of the
most
as other-
On
the
more
fat "
by evaporato
have to speak
in,
OVERGLAZE PAINTING ON PORCELAIN.
beautiful colours are such as are not attainable except
235
noticed in the last para-
Unadvisabte.
The point
(4)
with a very large expenditure of money, and in circumstances which do not exist in private houses or even
in ordinary
graph but one demands further attention as bearing greatly on a very practical consideration. It is essential
hto te " finish" of a picture that after the firing
colours should
all
workshops.
the
be equally glossy
on an extensive scale and where part of the necessary ''machinery" is utilisable for other purposes besides mere colour-making and the circumstances, which include, among
;
This end, so
as
and maintenance
furnaces
of
to
of heat in
special
be attained by the use in any one painting of the colours of only one maker. It is the fact that there is one recognized standard of heat for firing enamel colours, and at this heat, technia
rule, to
cally
known
it
as
the
;
colour
but,
should be developed
is
Flux.
But
perfection
unfortunately,
tions.
very great
Indeed,
way
of attaining
properly
the adjustment of
the
flux.
it
is
scarcely too
much
to say that
and most
delicate part of
(i)
The
flux should
be suited to
;
one heat. In these circumstances it is with pleasure and confidence that I recommend for general use the colours which I now employ, after an experience of those of three other makers, viz., those
manufacture of Messrs. Hancock & Sons, Of these I cannot speak too highly. The grinding of them is complete, they do not concrete, they all vitrify and develop equally, and, a not unimof
the
should be proportionate in quantity to the pigment according to its nature ; (3) it should uniformly cohere with the glaze of the ware beneath and (4) the
;
Worcester.
whatever their composition, should always vitrify at one uniform temperature. The degree of nicety to which this adaptation must be carried will be appreciated when it is stated that an excess in one
different fluxes,
portant point as regards price, the quantity in the No. 2 sized bottles compares very favourably with that
offered
37.
Dry
These are
of the ingredients only amounting to between per cent, of the flux may destroy the colour.
-3
and
-4
in the
water-colour.
Speaking generally, then, it is not to the amateur's interest to endeavour to be his own colour-maker. To expend pounds on a furnace when for as many shillings he may get as much colour as will in the ordinary way
last
The relative worth of dry and oil-paste much debated, but it is sufficient to say,
is
on
first
oil
medium,
him
for
some
Of course
there
some advantage in respect of convenience, it is undeniable that in every other respect the advantage is on the side of the powder
colour.
I
cannot
am
some
sons"
doubt
of the firm
domestic
manufacture of
them would be profitable
ing upon
colour
FIG. 22.
:
powder
except as a
FORMS
OF MULLERS.
"I. Professionals
know from
ence that the sooner colours are used and
experi-
made
are
among
the
cheapest.
fired after
There are published recipes on the subject which may be consulted by the amateur desirous of trying his
oils,
etc.,
fired.
hand
that
in this line
Dry
colours
;
maybe mixed
if
some are scarcely intelligible in modern strictness, and others are known to be incorrect, I think I have said enough to show that, except in a few cases, le jeu Tie vaut pas la chandelle. 36. E/nployment of Different Makes in One Painting
whereas,
it is
too thin,
difficult
make
it
stiffer for
any particular purpose," without at the same time running the risk of having the mixture too fat. [A. de V.]
"III. Colours kept in tubes are apt to separate
236
from
necessitating the trouble of re-mixing with a paletteknife (as much trouble as mixing in the first instance). " IV. There is considerable uncertainty in producing, by mixture of various tube colours, a given tint, for grounds, etc., particularly for large work, as they
not so to the same extent but for the reasons already given it is unadvisable to mix the makes in a single
;
painting.
39.
is
Hancock's
I
Complete
bottles
The
No.
sized
vary
in
;
consistence,
difficult
to
Soft
measure whereas, the proportions of dry colours may be correctly weighed, and if a memorandum is kept, the exact tint may be reproduced with certainty, without further experiments. " V. Moist colours in tubes are apt to
time,
'fat,'
....
Blue.
.
.
Black.
Green
s.
{continued).
s.
d.
d.
10
Gordon
Rose-leaf
10
10
.
Deep
to
Sevres
10
8
what is technically termed them liable to blister in the fire. Dry colours may be mixed with as little fat oil as experience proves necessary for the particular kind of work in hand, and the artist has it in his power to render them 'fat' or
'
Azure
,,
8 8
8
Light Shading .
Deep
.
Grey.
Black
Pearl
2
1
10
9
9
burgh
Schwartzen'.
White Shadow
2
Orange.
Dark
8 8
.
cutting,'
Bronzes.
Various Tints, per dwt.
at the
moment."
Light
claimed too that the purchaser of dry colour has this further advantage: that he obtains so much of the dearer pigment in place of the cheaper medium ; and certainly, taking quantity for quantity, a compariIt is
Brown.
Austrian
.
8
.
son of the prices of the No. 2 sized bottles with those charged by other makers for moist colours, fully supports this claim, and this should be a leading consideration with the amateur, who may save not only the maker's cost of mixing, which is a very simple
operation, but also his interest on such cost. I may add to the foregoing " reasons," that in a
9
9
Purple.
Ordinary Royal
.
9
9
.
3 3
Fawn German
Golden
Olive
'
Ruby d'Or
Red.
Flesh, Nos. 1
,,
9 9 9
and 2.
.
9 9 9
Sepia
Shadow
. .
Vandyke
Ordinary
Scarlet
Salmon, Nos
and 2
make which I have used, I have found tubes from which it has been impossible to express the paint, which had become as hard as a rock. These colours, 38. English v. French Colours. moreover, answer as well on French soft ware as on
foreign moist
Carmine.
Carmine
Pink
.
9 Silver.
1 1
Rose Coral
,,
6 6
Prepared
per dwt.
Du
Barry
.
3
1
Violet.
Lilac, Nos.
r, 2,
,,
,,
Ordinary
Strong
and 3
Mauve
1 1
fire
kinds of ware, as
many
or 4
Violet
known
I
White.
s
Gold.
per d wt.
have found signally fail on English ware, as generally fired. It is to be borne in mind, that in the muffle some articles must necessarily be nearer the sides and top than others, and such are exposed to a greater degree of heat, and in my experience are, more often than
not, slightly overfired.
09
8
Hard Medium
Soft
10
.
10
10
Green.
Blue
Buff.
Ivory
Yellow.
8 10
8
.
Now, a very
slight excess of
Celadon
for
ground
>
10 10
8
heat
is sufficient
to entirely spoil
many
of the partifirst
Hard
Deep
Dover Emerald
.
.
Light
Opaque
Persian
9 9 9
10 10
brought
home
to
me
in a piece of
work, in which, in
Hard
my quondam
ments of
simplicity
I
of the vendor,
and reliance on the bona fides employed English and French pigI
Small bottles
is.
2d.;
4d.
;
tiles with the same English colours stood the the French ones were overdone. Others of the
is.
may be had of ordinary purple at Outremer and Schwartzenburgh turquoise at and royal purple, Ruby d'Or, and Rose du
2 sized bottles contain twice the quantity
to the
same
objection, or
237
The use
felt
30 ; but the amateur may, with great advantage to himself at first, and with prospect of greater
16, 20, or
discomfort
or
tar.
(c.)
By
deemed
to
be
two or
three.
a cleaner
paint.
40. Moist Oil-colours. Thus far of powder colours, and the raasons for the use of them in preference to colours ground with an oil medium. At the same
time,
it
may
is
many
to
;
whom
and
if
personal convenience
there be any such
prime consideration
among
I
(d.) The great drawback experienced in sketching from nature by very many china painters, who have not gone through a regular course of water-colour painting, has been, that quite different sets of colours have had to be used for the sketch and for the work on the ware. This, of course, means that, except to those at once experienced in both lines, who have
my
readers,
may state,
been
not a
little
loss of time
perhaps
temper, too
and
do not wish to suggest that these colours are entirely free from all the objections noticed as obtaining against such colours, but they have this in their favour that they do not " fatten," and they do not harden, the two principal sources of waste and loss. The first result follows from the use in their preparation of the special medium mentioned in Sec. 32 (d) above. 4r. Moist Water-colours. I come now to a subject which has been engaging attention for very many years, viz., the preparation of a moist colour, which, while being adapted to use with water as a diluent, should yet be without the disadvantages attending the employment as mediums of the articles noticed in Sec.
much
equivalent
makes. This need no longer be so. The moist enamel colours with water are intended to be used for sketching on paper, and with the
tints in the different
for
the
sketch,
the finished
may
In Part XV.,
answered an inquiry
relative to
fired."
way
be now, therefore, be permitted to state here (although the remark is, to a slight extent,
may
foreign to
my
may be used
31 as objectionable, or any similar ones. This end has now been completely achieved, and in Hancock's moist water-colours
we have a
moist water-colours for ordinary water-colour painting. This make is only just issued, and the successful production of
it
any preparation of the material, the reverse side of which is not affected. With them, and the aid of a "mineral varnish " issued with them, a perfect semblance of an oil-painting or an under-glaze can be
produced.
gree,
certainly
marks an epoch
in the history
This varnish
is
of ceramic colour making. saw above that the evils of the rejected mediums were the possibility of loss of work through smudging, the probability of
boiling up,
We
and does not crack, and its utility apparent. Such a painting on china or
properly varnished, does not require to be
at
once
is
terra cotta,
fired,
and
and the
certainty in
gums
of efflorescence.
very lasting.
plied at 6d. half size,
is
These evils are altogether obviated by the medium with which the new colours are prepared, and which is
supplied with them.
pletely decomposed
It
is
tubes, 9d.
3d. a tube.
by a special process, so that the sole action of heat upon it is to dissipate it without prejudice to the pigment and as a preliminary slight
;
For
it,
there
is
no possibility
I
of smudging.
On
;
shall
speak
in
my next
paper,
the mixing
at present
confine myself to
42. Utility of the Make. (a.) I have just noticed some of the advantages arising from the medium.
and These will not injuriously affect any of the colours, which are already so fine that a rub or two is sufficient to reduce them with the medium to the requisite perfect cream. The slab should be of ground glass, as polished glass offers no " tooth " to
colour,
shall require a glass slab
medium and
we
a glass muller.
The
There is another most important one, viz., that there is no waste. At the moment of going to press I have on my palette some of this paint which has been lying there for nearly two months, and it is now as good
can lodge
in the interstices,
and be
it
little
and
utilisable as
when
it first
238
the polish will be
have found, however, that this trouble is saved by going to a glazier's, and there some ground glass quite fine enough may be seen, of which a square may be had cut. The glass should be at 3 least T 5 inch thick, and be as free from colour as
duced.
possible.
44.
Supplement
Part.)
By MICHAEL MICBAELOVITCH.
Slab.
Before
back
using
Amateur
the slab,
side) of
will
be well to fasten
to the
(or plain
its
Work who
for
a mantelpiece with
panels, such
own
size,
good white gum, or, better, and then glue on to the paper,
as an amateur can
make
for himself, I
;
when thoroughly
The paper
cloth prefall
and the
But, better
still
is
the plan of
making
have attempted to meet their desire have been successful or not, I must leave it to others to judge. I may, however, say that a mantelpiece made according to the design given would not disgrace any dining or drawing-room. Of course, the
whether
I if wished, could be made alone, and I am would look well but as almost everyone wants an overmantel or mirror of some sort, at least, I have shown an overmantel which will go well with the mantelpiece, and one also which is of the utmost importance that can be very easily made. I have put tiles in it as well, and on one side I have shown how a shelf could be introduced. I myself am always pleased to have an opportunity to display any little ornament above the fireplace, and this
slight rabbet
is
mantelpiece,
sure
it
a picture frame.
is filled
When
the slab
in position
up with plaster of Paris made with water into a paste, and the whole should be backed with a piece of thin deal, which can be nailed to the frame with joiners' brads, which can be well driven home, so as not to scratch the table. One slab and muller will be 45. Quantities. enough to start with. With work in colour two at least should be had for different classes of colour and when gilding is undertaken, a separate slab and muller should be devoted to the metal, which would be spoiled by the slightest trace of colour. As to size, a 6-inch square will be the most generally useful. An 8-inch one will meet all requirements, while for gold, a 4-inch one will be quite large enough.
the back
shelf
is
it.
Besides,
all
the best
overmantel
but
if
is
objected to (the
bevelling alone
costing,
believe,
about
a penny
Prices.
is. 4d.
;
Slab
only,
6d. to
4-inch,
is.
6d.;
6-inch,
c.d.
to
8-inch,
is.
8d.
If there are
to
it
2s. 6d.
6-inch, 3s.;
The
latter are
The Muller
which
size,
is
flat
from the details given on the drawings but for the benefit of those who have had little or no experience
at this
surface, with
are given in
work,
may
give
some
instructions as to the
make
this article.
Skilled workif
good.
1
As
to
for
men may
laugh at
I
my
have
simple method,
they like;
is
howoften
care nothing
I
which much
it
service to anyone,
of
is
in
hand,
may
be advantageous
i-inch, 5d. to 9d.
47.
;
to
use a iJ-inch
size.
Prices.
either
Do
To Clean
the Slab
and Muller.
First remove
essential preliminary, as
you
will
ease with
it
them with a piece of rag soaked in common turpenand then scrub with a brush, such as a nailbrush, using soap and warm water.
In the next paper, the consideration of the requisites for overglaze painting will
fit afterwards need not disturb your mind, for you have the whole job arranged and thought out once for all. When this is thoroughly completed, get a board
we
shall
commence
actual
processes.
{To be continued.)
full width of your jamb (9 inches) and | in. thick. This is the ground of your jamb or pilaster. It should be of sufficient length to reach from floor to under edge of shelf. Then prepare your framing round the*
the
'
xv
0F
.tfELS
SIZE.
Mi
^39
{T)oth
words mean the same thing at this stage). rail e it is 3} in. broad, because when the neck moulding is planted round underneath the shelf, it will cover up 2 in. of this rail. Then the broad rail marked B is to form the margin round the tile at the top of the pilaster, and also the margin round the set of five tiles underneath it. It must be 2\ in. broad to give the two margins after, of course,
Notice the broad
;
behind the pilaster as far as the gable, i.e., the piece going between the wall and the pilaster, see D, in Fig. 1. When the frieze is finished, it is screwed from behind into the ground board of the pilaster, this method of fixing making a strong job. The gables must next be made and put on. Of course, they will extend Jrom the ground to the under side of shelf, in. thick, and grooved and tongued
with the ground board of the pilaster, and blocked to
strengthen the joint. The neck moulding, i.e., the moulding immediately underneath the shelf, may now be planted all round, of course returning round the pilaster, as shown on the drawing of the mantelpiece as finished. The frieze moulding goes on next in the
FIG. 4.
PILASTER
L
TILES
OVERMANTEL.
PIG. 3. fclG.
M.ARGIN
V/ A L
GROUND
LINE
PUT ON.
allowing for the frieze moulding which will be put in the centre of this 3J in. rail. Then the rail C forms the bottom margin, and extends about i in. more than
the portion of if in. that is to be seen. The base will afterwards be brought up to leave the right margin.
'
Now we
tiles.
with a cement composed of stucco, and should be very carefully put in so that the joinings of the pattern may meet exactly. When the tiles are properly
I
are placed
same way. Then the margin of wood immediately round the grate must be put in (as in Fig. 3) behind the ground board of the pilaster. Of course, under the frieze it will be on the same face as the rails of the frieze indeed, the simpler way would be to make the under-rail A of the frieze and the margin stretching
;
set,
little
quarter circle
is
put
all
round the
along the top of the grate between the pilasters, all of one piece of wood, which piece would measure 3Iin. wide, the upright margins round grate of course have shown a piece of wood I mitring into this.
tiles an<
sprigged
sh.
in,
and
this
behind
this
3)
for
the
neat
fir
.
Th
f in
frieze
portion
so far.
may now
It
is,
both
It is not always put in, grate to back up against. know, but as, when the grate lies close to it, it I
Ijamb?. are
made
of course, constructed
same way as the pilaster, but the ground board and rails A must be made long enough to go
exactly the
decidedly helps to prevent a smoky chimney from annoying the inmates of the room, it ought always to
be put
in.
24
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
pilaster,
foDtof the
up
to the grate
on the one
and butt up against the margin side, and the wall on the
teur,
to
make
it
of
wood
of that description,
and
other side, of the pilaster. The mantelshelf now being prepared and put on, the mantelpiece is complete.
then stain
it
with, perhaps,
Stephens's
Wood
Stains,
The overmantel
pilasters
is
made
in
the
same way
as the
which I think are the best in the market. They send samples of their different stains on a little slip of wood to any address, and their satinwood and mahogany
are particularly nice.
Get a board f inch thick, and put crossends on it grooved and tongued. Their use is to prevent end-wood being seen. This board will be the full size of the overmantel, and have
of the mantelpiece.
Before bringing
my
remarks
to a close,
it
may,
who attempt
scribed, or
and mirror being placed in as before (only there is no need for cementing the mirror in). The cornice is built upon the framing, and thin slips are planted on the framing running downwards from the cornice. These are to be \ in. thick and ij in. wide, and are imitation posts in the overmantel. Fig. 4 shows a section through the wood between the tiles and the mirror. The rail is 3J in. broad and 5 in. thick, and when the slip for the post is put on it leaves a margin of ij inch broad round the tiles and the mirror. Of course, the margin at top and bottom must be the
all
it,
the
tiles
for the first time the work I have deendeavoured to describe, without having had what I may term an average experience in joinery When anything difficult or out of the way was to be attempted for the first time as a mere essay that might point the way to a discovery, especially in
wont
to advise,
vili.
an
attempting a piece of
English
will
Let the
if
it
first
attempt be
as
made
as a
in deal,
which
not be regretted
same,
will
viz.,
\\
in.
is
much
I
end
in
Now,
on
little
if it
decided to have a
it,
shelf,
two
pillars
failure.
could be supported myself would have pillars, but as all of us have ideas of our own on this and other points and it would be a pity if we had not each must please himself. If a turned pillar could be made or got, it would be better than a square column, but I have seen this square column made,
or
it
be required to support
brackets,
if
trust
anyone
who makes
pleasure as
it,
this
I
article
may
preferred.
experience as
much
it
made
quite plain
and
distinct
perfect
success
it.
may be
pended on
and
The
illustrations in the
I
appearance being outrageously bad when made. It is easily made, being simply a square length with a bead run on each edge, a little cavetto planted round it near the top, and a square base made for it, and dowelled on. Then a dowel is put into each end
afraid of
of the pillar,
themselves.
for the
purpose of making
my
and
let
into
the
little
shelf
and the
hand, and the method of making to be followed, on the other, as clear and intelligible as possible to the reader. Referring once more to the Supplement, I
mantelshelf.
shelf to
The
little
have endeavoured
to assist the
go close
to the framing,
from behind. The dentils in the cornice are a great enrichment to the whole, and are cut out of the member of the cornice before it is built together. If a lathe is at hand, it would not be much more trouble or expense to put a row of balusters along the top above the cornice. This would improve the design considerably, but I have left them out, to show that it would look well without them if the amateur had not the opportunity of getting them. The wood to make this mantelpiece with must be
left to
his
putting
him
in possession of full-
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
HOSE
who
prefer
to
genuine
work
mere imitation by
little
paint, can
do so
at
comparatively
cost
if
cost
is
cost of paint-
by
wood
course
it
would be necessary to take care that none of was seen on the end of the job. But for an amait
may be
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
or small,
241
doors,
wood
They
first
are manufac-
may be
importance.
An
them, and
when
fixed
new production for the surface decoration of walls, doors, etc., may best be gathered from a rough description of the mode of making it. First of all, a
number of
pieces of
veneered, as preferred.
And
is
to
and of borders,
and
colours are
design.
The
second section of
finest
inlaid work.
special feature
;
By
this
unbroken uniformity from top to means, a log of wood, as we may call it,
in
bands andborders are quite ready for use they require no sand-papering, being perfectly smooth on the top
that these
side.
rectangular in shape, of
may be most
suitable
put, I
As an example of the purposes to which these may be may suggest that a deal table could be transformed
by putting a bordering of
purpose in view.
'When ready,
by which shav-
is
and
filling
composite block of
ing
is
wood
until the
from 3d.
to 3s. 6d.
Each shavit
made
in blocks of
in.
in thickness.
The
I
price
ranges
from od.
Book-covers
precisely the
same manner
however,
instead
as
may add
Albums
which
The
superior
effect,
;
that
produced
is
immensely
paper-
for,
makers'
the eye,
art,
which
at the best is
wood
cover, in
we have
needs only a protecting coat of transparent varnish, which heightens the general effect and acts as a preservative, preventing the entrance of particles of dust into the pores of the
Each kind of wood is represented ways and mounted on the effect of the wood when cut in each
in three different
way can be
ours.
It is
seen at a glance.
wood, and rendering it fit to bear the ordinary cleansing processes which are so necessary in spring and autumn. Conceive the effect of a door, for example, in which the
panels are 611ed with suitable mosaic work and the styles and rails covered with a veneer of wood that would form the
and having
can
for
just
Wood
wood
Veneers, I
The
it
now
give
my
name
not
many
feet that
would be required
an
And
ordinary door, the additional cost in this respect would be but trifling. And, again, for decorating home-made furni.
ture nothing could be
following
facturing
Company,
Alary's
more
what
wood mosaic
"Gloy," a
me
of their excellent
extending along the side of a room and along the members of the plinth, and even on the edges of the uprights that
carry the shelves, for this mosaic of various widths ranging from f
"Octopus Glue," a substitute for the ordinary glue, size, etc.; and I thank him all the more heartily because, prior to the receipt of these preparations, I was in utter ignorance of
their existence, whereas,
I
may be
in. to
obtained in strips
trial
of them,
widths
may
should
now be
them
for the
bookbinding as well as to surface decoration in houses. To judge of their beauty and adaptability for decorative purposes they must be seen, for my description fails entirely to convey anything approaching a suitable idea of its handsome appearance, utility, strength,
"They seem
He
writes,
who,
amateur work, as
This induces
me
to suggest
might be the means of making them known, both to the advantage of such persons and of the Company, if you
and
it is
prepared.
to the
something about prices, repeating once more that the " Decorative Wood Veneers," which are inLet
cluded in the
first section of this ornamental wood mosaic, can be used as a decoration on wood, such as furniture, deal
me now say
Amateur Work.
thus sent
to
The
novelties
him,
monthly numbers of the publication." Xow I can only say that of all compositions
242
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
when
seated has the opportunity of throwing the weight of
and the cheapest, that I have yet been privileged to meet with. We all know the
cleanest to handle, the sweetest,
prevented, which
is
unavoidable
when standing
how
it
smells after
it
machine and driving it by the treading action of one leg only, and the body thus remaining undisturbed, the arms are free to perform any kind of work
in front of a
With
never
that
may be
necessary,
whether
in scroll
sawing or lathe
it
cutting.
Messrs
is
was first withdrawn. Its moisture is comparatively slight, and soon evaporates, leaving the articles to which it has been applied firm and dry in a very short time. It may be had in bottles at 6d. and Is., or in bulk in a pure state at I2s. per
cwt.
Saw No. 7, at ^"5 (lam giving rough approximaAmerican prices in dollars) then No. 4 Lathe, at jio then No. 1 Amateur Saw, with boring attachment, at 2 10s. and then No. 6 Amateur Saw, also with boring attachment, at the same money. I hope that by the time this notice is in the hands of the readers of Amateur Work, some of these desirable machines will be on their way to this
their Scroll
tions to the
;
country.
It
which reduces
its
and
attaching decorative
it
work to walls. In diluting the "Gloy," a wooden or earthen vessel, and water
whole well
all
it is
in this
added gradually,
stirring the
is
required consistency
obtained.
and Octopus Glue, the former requires heating to render it fit for use, and is easily affected by moisture the latter, on the contrary, requires no heating, and is therefore always fit for use. It has no smell like ordinary glue, is never affected by moisture, and is possessed of such marvellous
;
pumping water, and other purposes of the kind. It is used very commonly in the United States, to judge from the prospectus before me of " Leffel's Improved Iron Wind Engine," manufactured by Messrs. E. C. Leffel and Co., Springfield,
Ohio, U.S.A.
It consists of a
which on which
is
is is
it
will
wood, thus forming a cheap, clean, and efficient substitute for putty and cement when used for these purposes. It
is
to
machinery
ing corn, etc., and, pari passu , for generating electricity for
sold, like
"Gloy,"
It is
in bottles at 6d.
and
Is.,
or in bulk at
from 8
in price
common
I
to 12 feet (the
I suppose),
and
glue
is
now
used,
for
to a sufficient extent to
serve as
size
all
desired.
from ^15 upwards, according to size and the kind of mill that is supplied with them. I hope the hint conveyed here may
not be lost on those
isolated situations.
recommend
who
binders to provide themselves with both of these desirable and useful preparations. If your oilman does not keep them,
as he ought, give him the Company's address, or write yourself to the
In the
last
Company
for a
for
N.W., have sent Buhl and Fretwork Tools and Materials, Treadle Fret Machines, Amateurs' Turning Lathes, Benches, and other Amateurs' Tools, Tools for Wood-carving, etc." One excellent feature in this catalogue
Co., 293, Euston Road,
Messrs. Kent
their
&
me
Police Constable," who was inquiring some preparation for waterproofing boots and shoes, was recommended to try " Millen's Snow and Wet Repeller and Sole Protector. " This has brought me a box of the preing himself
"A
I will
on
it
It is
"Gloy" and
it
is
illustrated, the
amateur
he
illustration, in
almost every
tool that
Octopus Glue, as everyone will readily understand. In the meantime, I may say that a box of the composition, measuring 5I in. by 4^ in. by I in., outside measurement, is sent by
about to send
I
for.
two manufacturers' catalogues from the United States. One of these is the "Price List and Descriptive Catalogue of Barnes' Patent Foot-Power Machinery," from Messrs. W. F. and John Barnes, Sole Manuin receipt of facturers,
am
Fern Factoiy, Little and that he states it to be not only useful for preserving both uppers and soles of boots and shoes from wet and wear, but that it keeps from
the proprietor, Mr.
Millen,
;
Humphrey
Is.,
post free
knives,
horses'
bits,
garden
very
to
The
specialty of this
and
all
metals,
when
firm
is
centres,
and
this principle
For application
and various kinds of machinery used by amateurs. To many of their machines seats are attached, and the driving wheel is worked by pedals, one on either side of it, after the
earthen pipkin and applied with a brush until the leather, Repeller " is put which should be dry and clean when the
'
manner of a
bicycle.
The advantage
is
of this arrangement
When
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
AMATEURS
IN COUNCIL.
eggs.
243
section of which is shown in Fig. 1, is made of tin. a is a square tin box, open at the top. At one end of this is a round hole, into which apipe, f, is soldered. This pipe serves as a cbimuey to carry off the pro-
space
is left
and on three
with
sides of the
sawdust
or
other
[The Editor reserves to himself the right of refusing a rep'y to any question that may be frivolous or inappropriate, or devoid of general interestCorrespondents are requested to bear in mind that their queries will be answered only in the pages of ihe Magazine, the information sought being supplied for the benent of its readers generally as well as for those who have a special interest, in obtaining it. In no case can any reply be sent by post.]
material. flat tin lamp, with two round wicks, is used by the inventor; but I see
A Simple
J.
Incubator.
is
H.
"W.
extracted
from the Country Gentleman, and which is reproduced witb the illustrations. J. H.~W. writes in reference to it : I forward you a
no reason why one properly- constructed kerosene burner would not answer the purpose. A little soft hay is spread in the bottom of the drawer, the eggs are then put in it is then closed, and warmed by the water above. The temperature of the water is kept at 122, or enough, higher or lower, to keep the eggs at 104 to 106. Once or twice each day the drawer is opened, and the egg turned, and left for a quarter of an hour in the open air before replacing. At the end of twenty-one days the chickens come out of the shell without assistance, and are left twenty-four hours in the drawers, without food, before being taken to the artificial mother. This operation follows the natural method exactly. The eggs receive their heat from above they are turned each day, and are ventilated, as in the case when under the mother. The holes for ventilation in the drawers are very small, and probably could be dispensed with without inconvenience, as few wi'l make the drawer air-tight. " ' The artificial mother is also provided with a zinc reservoir, of the shape shown
ducts of combustion from the lamp, E, wbich is placed at the other end. Here is a door, n, the construction of which is shown more clearly in Fig. 2, for taking out the lamp to trim it. A hole, n, must be made at the bottom of the door to admit air to the flame, above is a square hole, e, fitted with a piece of glass, so that the state of the flame can be seen without opening the door, b represents a deep
FIG.
slip
SECTION OF INCUBATOR,
can mate for himself. Ikoowitisagoodone, for I have had one myself in use for seven years. "A correspondent of the Country Gentleman says : ' There having been many inquiries, within the last few years, for the most approved methods of hatching and rearing chickens without the assistance of the hen, I send the enclosed sketches of hatching-box and artificial mother in use in France, and invented by M. Carbonnier. The construction and operation of both are so simple that I believe almost anyone of ordinary ingenuity can make and use them successfully. Fig. 1 represents the incubator, with the drawer containing the eggs partly dr^wn out. Fig. 2 shows a section of the same. The upper part of the box contains a zinc reservoir, with a space left, as shown in the drawing, for the introduction of the lamp, and a small tube passing through the top of the box, which serves for filling it with water, and also for holding a thermometer, which, plunge 1
1
hollow tray, partly filled with hot water ; this tray rests on the edge of box a by a flange or rim at its upper edge. Inside this water-tray is placed a second one, c, in the bottom of which is placed an inch depth of white silver sand, s. Some recommend chaff instead of sand. On this the eggs are laid, and then over the top a number of
folds of soft flannel or a folded blanket, o,
FIG.
2. SECTION OF INCUBATOR,
iu Fig. 3 ; it is covered below with a lamb's skin, in the warmed wool of which the chickens nestle and warm themselves. This
reservoir
is
only
filled in
cold weather,
and
then only once a day, the water being first brought to a temperature of 160 to 175. The tube passing up from this reservoir is used for filling, and one at the side for emptying. The top of the box is of glass, and arranged to slide, so as to open at pleasure ; there are three ventilating holes on each side, and a gate at the end. The chickens are placed in this when twentyfour hours old, and kept there for a week; they are then gradually habituated to the outside air, the gate being constantly opea for them to enter at will. Fresh water and food are given five times each day, it being
considered essential to give only small and to repeat them frequently. This method of hatching and rearing chickens, which follows nature so closely, is used to a considerable extent in France, and is evidently satisfactory.' "
raticns,
and not pressed down on the eggs. A common thermometer is to be laid on the sand, and the flame of the lamp so regulated that the heat should never rise above 104, as a very few degrees higher will kill all the chicks in the eggs. Pipes are shown at k, k in Fig. 1, to j>rovide for the necessary access of air to the eggs. At the end of a week the eggs should be examined. To do this cut an oval hole in a large piece of cardboard. If this card is placed on its edge, with a caudle on one side, and you hold the egg to be examined to the oth^r, you will readily see if the egg
laid lightly on,
FIG. 3.--SECTION
OF ARTIFICIAL MOTHER.
into the water below, indicatea the temperature. Thermometer tubes may be obtained, and held in position continually by
inserting-
FIG. 2.
is
STRUCTURE
If,
OF DOOR.
Politzer writes:
simple
difficulty in
An
incubator of
through a perforated cork of the proper size the temperature of the water may then be seen at a glance. The drawer for the eggs is immediately beneath the reservoir; it is provided with two small holes for ventilation, and holds about forty
;
character may be made without the following manner, and the description, it is hoped, will be sufficiently clear to enable anyone interested in the matter to elaborate its details to suit his special requirements. The incubator, a
after being in the' incubator a week, the egg is clear |and transparent, it may be discarded ; but if it be dark
bad or good.
and opaque, except a clear space at the large end, there is a growing chicken inside. The eggs should be turned over every day. This incubator will hatch fowls' eggs in about
244
ducks' eggs take a few days "When the chickens are hatched they need an artificial mother (though some country people take the chicks away as fast as they are hatched, and put them in a basket of wool before the fire, and bring them up by hand). The chickens are placed in the arti6cial mother when twenty-four hours old, and kept there a week, when they may be gradually inured to the open air. The artificial mother is a tin vessel of hot water, standing on very short feet. The bottom of tbis vessel is covered with a piece of blanket or wool, and round the sides should be hung a kind of short curtain, with one opening through which the chickens can run in and out. The legs on one side should be a little taller than those on
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
;
three weeks
longer.
Soap-Making.
A Folding
**
Book-Case.
Chester The
articles
on this subject
were taken from the Scientific American. They did not prove as useful or as satisfactory as it was hoped they would be. The subject may be taken up and handled thoroughly by a competent English writer
before long. Any question Chester likes to put on the subject, shall be answered, if If Chester has enit is possible to do so. deavoured to make any soap, will he furnish some notes of his experiences ?
the other, so that there is a space for chickens of all sizes. The water should be kept at a temperature of 110, by a thermometer. The great difficulty is to keep the artificial mother of a uniform heat. Tbis can be accomplished by a small nightlight placed underneath at one end, and separated from the chicks by a small screen cf
Silvering Mirrors. G. G. (Woodford). I do not supply you with the details of the silvering process, to which you allude, because it is a process too difficult for an amateur to carry out, and a mere summary of it would be next to useless. If you will take the trouble to look through "Amateurs in Council," you will find two or three addresses, at which silvered glass may be procured at very moderate prices, cut to any size re-
W.
In reference to the plan and method of making a folding book-case which appeared a short time since in Amateur " Wrinkles for Amateurs," and Work, which was sent by a correspondent, A.W.K., of Bengal, Mr. Alexander Pilbeam wishes me to call attention to the fact that in May, 1863, he obtained a patent for improvements in the construction of Sewing Machines, one of the improvements being "the constructing of the table or support of a sewing machine with treadle driving gear, so as to fold down into the form of a compact case." The principle on which A. W. K.'s book-case is formed is identical with that on which Mr. Pilbeam's cases for sewing machines were constructed. I am sure, however, that A. W. K had not the slightest intention of appropriating Mr. Pilbeam's idea aud working upon it in any way, but as Mr. Pilbeam was first in the field by nearly
twenty year?,
quired.
In using this artificial mother care should be taken to shift the place on which it stands every day, so as to enable the ground under it to be cleaned daily, the least accumulation of dirt being fatal. Ducks are more hardy than chickens, and can he reared by the aid of the artificial mother without any difficulty.
tin. S.
Electric Engines. (Lisson Grove). Articles on Electric Engines and Electric Motors will be given, I hope, in Vol. III.
J.
W.
B.
W.
Wood-lice in Wood.
H. (Middleham). If it is a cold frame that is infested with wood-lice, give it a good scrubbing with soft soap and water as hot as can be handled, and then paint and stop all holes with putty.
Ii.
M.
(Altrincham)
is
but he will see that the incubator he recommends has already been described by another contributor. He is also thanked for his commendation of Mr. Earnshaw's Boots and Shoes How to papers on Make Them and Repair Them," which will shortly be resumed.
letter,
'
E.U.
sticks may be obtained from any ironmonger or from any umbrella mender.
French-polishing.
School for Amateur Mechanics. Industria, who approves of Watchdog's suggestion in this matter, would be glad to lend a helping hand. Personally, if such a school for amateur mechanics could be set on foot, I think it would be most useful but the difncixlties and cost of starting it and carrying it out would be great and perhaps insuperable. We must wait a little
loDger for this. Doll's House.
J.
Ebony.
polish
1.
It is not usual to
French
Dead Finish
wood for fret cutting before sa\ring. 2. The pattern should be pasted on the upper side of the wood to be cut. 3. In
order to keep a glue-brush soft for use, wash it whenever you have done with it.
H.
W.
(Liverpool).
An
article
on this
for
J. T. F. (Brixton), The recipe for doing this, given on p. 283, Vol. I., will be more
Work
by you if you first read the article on " French Polishing " on page There you will find that finely ground 23t8. pumice stone can be purchased at oi'shops, and that shellac finish js the ordinary French polish thinned down with spirit as used by French polishers in finishing their work. They also use a little linseed oil on the polishing pad, hence perhaps the term " oil finish." You must let one coat dry hard and free from dust before applying another, and not attempt to rub down until the whole The " finish " will leave a is hard and firm. gloss on the wood, but rubbing with linseed oil and powdered pumice will reduce this to a "dead" appearance. French polish is
easily understood
Plain Hand-Turning. Foot-Lathe. Attention shall be paid to your wishes in this respect; hut I fear
the subject must be deferred to Vol. III., owing to the great number now under treatment.
Cleaning Old Prints. Mr. John Brion has undertaken to supply articles on Mapmounting, etc., and I daresay he will supplement these with instructions on cleaning and restoring old prints, engravings, drawJ.
H.
(Brighton).
ings, etc.
Booth's Mitre-Cutting Machines. J. H. (Brighton) is assured that these machines are in every respect equal to what is said of them. A lull description was given iu Amateur Work, Part 12, November, 1882. Messrs. E. Melhuish and Sons, 83 and 85, Fetter Lane, E.C., will supply you with any tools you require for clockjobbing.
Venetian Blinds.
W.
this
queries on other matters which you mention are not with it. I cannot say when the pro-
mised
to
articles
on Veretian Blind-making
may seem,
meet with a man who can write well and intelligibly on a technical subject just when
the article
is
made
little
with a
Plants in Screens. Billy Button. I am under the impression that a reply has already been given to your question, either to yourself or some
The leaves, butterflies, other applicant. etc., are to all appearance kept in place by sheets of glass ou either of the the pressure side of them. Of course thick mid-ribs of fern leaves should be reduced. The use of
any adhesive compound, except perhaps coaguline, would cause marks and smears on the glass.
Bird-Stuffing. A. A. S. (Cambridge). This subject is one of the thousand and one matters that are suitable for treatment in the pages of this Magazine, and when a convenient opportunity offers, or a contributor who can write with authority on this subject turns up, it Uhere is a book, will be duly handled. " Bird Preserving and Bird Mounting," by Richard Avis, which was published by Groombridge and Sons at Is. It was one
of the series of Shilling Practical Manuals published by tbis firm; but as I do not know it, I cannot bear testimony to its
wanted.
Ferneries. A. B. (West Bromwich). Instructions are now beiug given on the manufacture of ferneries of all kinds, and your special want
Polishing Wood in Lathe. E. G- H. (Chatham). The only method of polishing, or, rather, imparting a smooth finish to wood in the lathe, is by simple
friction.
value or otherwise.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
Pianoforte Organs.
TV. B. -writes
:
245
one part acid and two parts of any clean water, for this is what your statement means? If so I must beg to differ from " Killed spirits" is made as was deyou.
scribed on page 40, and rain water is better than aDy other clean water to add to the acid. He next says, " 2. No. 6 is the best
It may be useful
to
know
that Bruthners, of Germany, and 7, Wigtown Street, Cavendish Square, London, are selling organs made in sbape and form as a piano, no pipes being- visible, but same consist of reeds fixed inside the case being a new invention on the organ. Mr. Mark Wicks can, on application, obtain one of their explanatory catalogues, and perhaps will kindly enlighten amateurs thereon.
;
complete his articles on "Lathe Making'' and " Household Clocks." For reasons which it is unnecessary to enter into here, Mr. Easluck has ceased to be a contributor to Amateur "Work, and, in consequence, will not finish the papers he undertook to write. I regret that aDy reader should have experienced temporary disappointment in the delay that has occurred, but I will take care that the disappointment shall be effaced as far as possible by the speedy appearance of some papers on "Lathe Construction" and "Clock Bepairing." etc., that shall have the merit of being thoroughly practical and dealing efficiently and exhaustively with the subject in hand.
the steel slip, and find its tone ia relation to the other notes. You will probably find some other note that is the new one's octave, or in some cases the same note in unison ; then the tuning should be an easy matter. Or begin twanging from C below the new note up an octave; you will soon find if your new note is not at the right pitch. In filing, place the steel slip between the note and the reed-plate. Filing at the point sharpens a note; filing towards the rivet lowers or flattens a note. In filing, care must be taken not to touch any of the other notes with the file, or they will be put out of tune. Sometimes the new brass is of a different temperament from the other notes. To harden it before fitting, hammer the tongue on a small smooth anvil, thinning out towards the point. In this way a tongue that is short for the aperture will be considerably longer when
form
most practical
hammered.
Glaziers'
Diamond.
J.
of S. Butler,
29, Haymarket, Thomas R. Willis, 29, Minories, London, or of almost all musical instrument dealers, at about 2s. a gross, assorted sizes. Cojsta:st Reader. Concertina reed tuning requires a few tools to begin with. A small table vice, pliers, small hammer, small fine file, small steel punch to punch out old rivets, a lifter, made of very thin steel and made thinner at one end, to put under the tongues when filing, and also for twanging the note to find its tone in relation to the others. The tongues or notes, when bought, are cut out of sheet brass, and all of pne thickness. Along with the notes, one needs soft iron or copper wire for rivets. Fitting and tuning is a delicate
Tou can buy diamonds at any ironmonger's. One man can use a diamond with good effect that another can do nothing with. It does not depend so much on the diamond itself as on acquiring the knack of using it, and from your saying that you can sometimes cut fairly well with it and at other times break a lot, I gather that you do not always hold it at the same angle. If it is permissible, in buying a diamond make trial of a few, and select that with which you can do
A. B.
(East Grinstead).
glaziers'
worn out too soon through the screw of the shank becoming Iooeo. Tour readers will do best to buy their copper bits, they can get useful ones for Is. or Is. 6d." Would it surprise you to know that I have an iron made similar to that sketched at Fig. 9, page 41, and that it has been in use for the last three years, but the screw is not loose yet. Amateur "Work has many thousands of readers, and many of them reside out of London, in places where a properly made copper bit cannot be procured for the modest sum namedby you. Some of those readers have not the means to make the copper bits, Fig. 6, but could make No. 9. My critic next thinks that I want to scald or burn the eyes of myreaders. I have no wish to do anything of the kind, nor to even induce them to undertake dangerous work. He then takes exception to bismuth solders, and says that an excellent alloy for solder is made of 14 parts tin to 10 of lead melt the lead and then add the tin, together with " some fat," stir it
uses, No. 9 gets
;
best.
"With regard to the method of laying out a flower-bed in the form of a fleur-de-lis by rule and compasses, this shall be supplied in a future number. Designs for geometrical beds are given in price lists of plants very frequently. I saw some excellent ones not long ago in one of the Swanley
Catalogues.
about, skim off the dross, and pour the alloy into a mould of angle iron carefully dried. E.C. certainly states his case satisfactorily to himself,from his point of view, and doubtless that is quite correct for a tinplate worker, but he must allow that many
different
may
require a
Frame-Gilding-.
solder that will melt at a temperature below that at which his solder will melt. It may suit a tinplate worker to use a solder
article, per-
processes involved in pictures and mirrors in a proper and inSpeaking briefly, the telligible manner.
imperfectly mixed, but others may be glad to knowthat alloys mix best when they have been first melted and granulated, by pouring them from the ladle into a pail of water,
thenremelted.
There
is
no danger about
job, and requires a good deal of patient practice before it i3 got into. The operation is as follows: Select a tongue that
will cover the aperture in the reed-plate.
coated with at least two layers of size and whiting. Several coats of gold size are then ljid on, after which gold leaf is applied in strips of a suitable size. G-- W. H. See preceding reply to Beta
wood
is first
enough to put his head down close to the A little tallow on the melted solder pail. will certainly keep the tin from beiDg oxydised, and an angle iron mould is preferable
to those named inrny article. Respectinghis last dreadful threat. I do notfeeliu theleast alarmed, and hope that he will carry it out by keeping a sharp look out for errors. It is more than possible he may find several in my second article, for although experienced in the use of blowpipe and soldering tools, I lack his experience in sheet metal work. I heartily thank you for your T. J. 0. letter and strictures on the second article of " Brazing and Soldering." I agree with you when you say, "If those who work in sheet metal will provide themselves with a hatchet stake, a parallel stake, and a tapered stake and a tinman's mallet, they will never require to use pliers. True, but for those
Place it in position, and pa?s a fine reamer through both holes, to get them both same size. Kow fit the rivet by tapering the wire pass it through both tongue and plate till tight turn the plate over, and draw with a fine needle draw point all round in the aperture, thus marking the tongue the exact size. Bemove the tongue, and file edges and end till it fits the aperture, but no more. Then make'an inspection of the form of the other tongues as to thickness for instance, you will find the lower notes to be thicker at the point than back towards the centre, while the high notes on the right
;
; ;
Delta.
Show Cases
for Counters.
B. F. C. If you will bring your special want in this matter before me, I will endeavour to help you through this department of the Magazine; but the subject if not of
sufficient
separately.
Thanks for your letter ; it has E. been forwarded to Mr. Edwinson, who expresses himself well pleased with it. Coming from such an authority as a " Foreman Tin.
plate "Worker," it is most valuable. E.C. writes to correct some errors in the first He says article on Brazing and Soldering. "1. In shop parlance 'killed spirits,' any clean water will do.about one-third the quantityof acid." Do you mean to say that "killed spirits" in shop parlance is composed of
:
hand
are thinned out to the point. File the a 3 near as may be like those on either side of it; then cut the rivet right
new note
length, and rivet, seeing at the same time tha* the tongue play3 free in the aperture
who cannot procure such tools, what in lieu of them ? Bottoms J of an inch margin may be easily turned up without notch or
wrinkle on a round stake by a skilled sheet metal worker.
This done,
it.
Twang with
246
Prizes in connection with "
AMATEURS IN
Amateur
shall be
COUNCIL.
will be in proportion to the time spent in
kept in view, and, in all probability will be acted on at some future time. It is, however, a matter that requires careful consideration.
ironmonger through this firm will supply you with the " Patent Improved Mitre Box," which can be used with a hand- saw, or tenon-saw. Its length is 20 inches, and
it3 price, 28s.
careful rubbing
F.
letter in
G. sketches I send are nearly self-explanatory, but I had better give the dimensions of the stuff used. The same letters are used for both drawings. The two bearers, c c,
approval of Amatkvjr "Work, is very encouraging, and shall be forwarded to the quarter indicated. E. B. (Cheltenham). We shall continue to deal with Lathe Work and Carving in
coats given. Another method of varnish" ing is as follows; Mix equal proportions of Canada balsam and spirit of turpentine, then add the colour very finely ground, give several coats and rub down with ground pumice stone. After the last coat draw the Hues or other decorations, aud apply when
Wood. The articles on "Boot and Shoe Making" will be continued. Many readers who are compelled by inexorable necessity
to help themselves, like them, and take advantage of them. Tailoring is not a subject suitable for amateurs of the male kind: bootmaking is. Tou would be astonished to know how many amateurs take up organbuilding.
Papyrotiles.
0. (East l>iilv:ich For small quantities of papyrotiles apply at the European
F.
W.
Art Gulleiies, New Bond Street, W.C Mr.T. J. Gulliche is the manager. There should be no difficulty in obtaining them through any upholsterer. Indeed it is desirable that all upholsterers, especially in the country, should keep sample patterns and receive
FIG.
Driving Tricycle. D. T. H. Tour idea of driving a by a ratchet wheel and rod looks feasible enough on paper. In its application several things would present themselves which you have probably failed to take into account. First of all, you aim at too much in proposing to get a revolution of drivingwheels for each stroke of your pedals, unless the driving wheels were under 30 inches in diameter. The ratchet wheel in such a case would be under 4 inches in diameter, which would only be equal to a crank under Th toothed rod would not 2 inch stroke. take the wheel unless its teeth were a little longer in pitch than those of the wheel.
W.
tricycle
I. PLAN OF SEAT.
orders.
S. K.
should be G inches by 2 inches, and about 4 feet long the boards lettered f to be
;
Papy-
rotile
7 inches by 1 inch, and 3 feet loDg. The struts and ties, d e, may be 2 inches by 1 inches, and b, which connects the two
struts, d, at each end, should be 3 inches
by 2 inches, and 3 feet long The irons marked n any smith will make they should be j inch diameter. Of course two irons will be required, one in each bearer. The
;
Rolborn Viaduct. Inquiries shall be made, and if so, their present address shall be found and given. More patterns for brackets shall be given. We shall be glad to receive good designs for these useful articles from any of our readers. S. K. G. Should any of your further writes
:
readers require glazed, or other tiles of that description, I can coufidently recommend Mr. Wollescroft, of 177, Upper Thames Street, who will be found very obliging, and capable of supplying everything likely to be wanted in that way.
Recipe in
F. A.
repeat your question. Private answers per envelope stamped and addressed, are not given. The recipes given in "Ways and Means" are not warranted. Read introductory matter at head of this department.
(Chcetham).
Please
my
2. SECTION OF CHAIR.
chair can be notched and screwed together, or mortised and tenoned, as preferred. It
gives plenty of standing room, and as much safety as an adult needs for the purpose.
[From a Pro.]
Iron Mitre Box. H. C. S. (Throgmorton Street). A simple ircn mitre bos made after the manner of wooden mitre boxes would ruin your saw. If you are in the habit of doing pretty much in the way of mitring, get one of Booth's Machines, for Mitre Cutting, which have been described, and frequently mentioned in this Magazine. If, however, you have set your mind on having an iron mitre bos, with which you can use a saw without hurting it, Messrs. ChurchUl & Co., or any
experience in painting the tricycle is very limited. I use a varm>h called Brunswick black. It gives a good skin for varnish, and dries in about an hour. Some tricycles are painted after the manner of the iron work of carriages, which is a very tedious process. Harrington's enamel is said to be the best coating for velocipedes. But I rather think the machiaes have to be sent to Harrington, .Much Park Stieet, Coventry. Welch & Co., Selborne Road, Denmark Rill, London, S.E advertise enamels that may be used by the buyer, black, brown, blue, etc. To paint in the ordinary way, get white lead and boiled linseed oil, and add colour to tint as wanted;
,
The rods would have to be held to their work by rubber straps or by some other means, and the up stroke would produce an unpleasant whir. The idea is net quite new, though your proposed method of applying it may be. I enclose a sketch taken from a drawing of my own of a proposed driving gear
which as yet remains on paper for the reason that a smooth pulley and strap effect exactly the same thing as the rod.and is much neater. a is an ordinary 6 inch cog-wheel with along boss, it moves freely either way on the axle, along side it, but keyed to the shaft, is a wheel b, with slanting tooth, a steel hook on a engages the tooth of b. The rod c has teeth same as cog-wheel. It is held to its
n, attached to it and tho nedal lever e. This contrivance would do the work with little or no noise, as the hook would 1-ave a bit of leather on it. The upright red ia nnsight'y. There is considerable friction, aud alt"getber a strap or chain round a smooth wheel, iu lieu of the cog, is in every way to be preferred.
put in also driers. To make it dry quicker, put in $ ounce sugar of lead and ounce white vitriol. Hub down every coat of paint when dry with fine sand-paper. The result
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
Filters.
247
Making Spectroscope.
Fret Machines.
wanting to buy for one of my boys a cheap machine as a beginning. Will some of my brother amateurs kindly say which ono they can recommend ? I would make one after the pattern that appeared in No. 1, page 36, but it is too cumbersome, and would not be suitable for a lad of twelve years of age, and I do not want to get one of the more expensive ones I see advertised. Has any one had experience of the " Prize Holly," by Harger Bros. ?
C. (Alfreton) writes:
Mr. A. W. Soward, the author of the papers on "Filters," writes"! should esteem it a favour if you would kindly find a corner for the enclosed correction in the
next issue of Amateur "Woes. I hare received a note from. Mr. Maignen upon the subject, and have promised him to ask you to put the matter right at the earliest opportunity." Erratum. In Mr. Alfred W. Sowurd's article on " Filters," in our last issue, the name of Mr. John Bell was given as the manufacturer of Maignen's patent " filtrerapide." Thi3 is an error. The filters are made and sold by the inventor, Mr. P. A. Maignen, at 22 and 23, Great Tower Stre-et, E.C. Mr. John Bell make3 the asbestos cloth, and also has a wholesale depot of the
W.
am
V. (Ambleside) writes:Kindly state in Amateur Work if a rain-band spectroscope can be manufactured by an intelligent and skilful amateur mechanic, if so, I should be pleased to see a paper on the subject.
Permit
me to state that I was successful in pairs of telephones, according to the directions given by Mr. G. H. Sayer.
making two
Cutting Mounts.
G.
W. H. (Bloomsbury)
on this subject.
tions
Etc
filters.
Canoe-building.
I never decked a canoe with wood, but I believe the usual
T. S.E. (Hampsfeid).I the directions satisfactory.
F. A. E. l$eieto\cnbv.tler) asks:1. Can nitrate of silver stains be taken out of linen ? If so, what would do it ? 2. Would common iron wire do for the line wire of the telephone, if it was insulated, when it iB to be fastened to the walls ?
INFORMATION SUPPLIED.
* It is difficult, even with the additional
for the last four months, to keep pace with the applications that demand notice in
way to join the edges is as in a door, with the help of a rabbeting plane. Rivet-plates may look better than clinched rails, but thi3 is about their only merit, and they are, I believe, expensive. A standing lug does but I found it quite unwell, if small manageable when of large size. A jibshaped spanker has nothing in its favour, being quite a3 hard, or easy, to manage, as the style recommended in Ak\teur Work, and less than half as powerful. Tour idea of retaining the two small sections, and so forming two water-tight compartments seems a very good one, as also your suggestion of steering with the feet, or at least making provision for doing so on emergen;
Table for Circular Saw. R. K. (Iilandmore, Croom) writes want some one of your correspondents to give me a plan of a simple table for circular saw to go on the lathe bed, with description. I have the saw, a 6 in. one but I want to make a table for it myself, of wood,
J.
t
"Amateurs in Council"; and in order to lighten the Editorial labour involved in adapting correspondence for the presB, I must ask all who contribute to this department of the magazine, by affording information that is asked for in the deportment
headed "Information Sought," to adopt
the following ruleB 1. Dispense entirely with the forms of commencing and ending a letter usually adopted, writing at the top of the paper, " Editor, Amateur Work," and no more. 2. Then write in full the head-line that appears above the paragraph in " Information Sought," to which the reply is given. 3. Next, commence a reply thus A. B. C. (HotmsZoic), or Verax, etc [that
:
if
possible.
Gilding and Cutting Picture Mounts. Rishtok asks for information for gilding the edges of picture mounts, and what kinds of tools are used in cutting them.
cies.
INFORMATION SOUGHT.
Brass Chessmen. K. W. (Stockton-on-Tees) writes :I should be much obliged if you, or any of your readers, through the medium of your Magazine, would kindly intorm me where it is
possible to obtain a set of chessmen, cast in brass, or bronze metal ? I believe tbey are only made in Berlin, but I cannot ascertain the address of the firm producing them.
Small Clocks. Where can I get J. H. (Brighton) asks wholesale the email clocks that are now eold at from 3s. to 5s. each ? I should like to know where I could obtain the skeleton parts to make one of them, with the names of parts of workings. [If our correspondent means the little American Drum Clocks that have been recently introduced, I do not think tbat it is possible fur him to get the ports of one of them. The mechanism of them is delicate, and they will not Btand much tampering with. Ed.]
:
initials of real name and place of residence, or nom-de-plume of writer of reply, as preferred] sends the following reply to E. Q. Z. (Aldershot) or Hakfagbr [initials and place of renidence, or nom-de'plume of applicant, as the case may be] 4. Lastly, let this commencement be folis,
for Walnut Wood, Eeoht wishes for the necessary directions for imparting this kind of polish to walnut wood and ebony.
Dead Polish
Cam Wood.
L. P.M. (Stoke Newinglon) wishes to know where he can procure some cam wood for ornamental turning. Cement for Shells. H. D. E., wisheB to know of a cement to firmly joiu shells as ornaments. Ramrod fixed in Gun Barrel. W. H. C. (Wrotham) writes: I have, owing to an accident, pot a ramrod firmly fastened in a barrel of a gun with a piece of linen, would some of your correspondents oblige me with hints how to pet it out without injuring the barrel. It is a muzzleloading gun.
by Cnairmaliers. Yorso Amateur writes: WiJl you kindly inform me how the varniab, or
Pollen Used
and the applicant to whom the reply is given. In future, no notice can be taken of " Information Supplied " by any correspondent who neglects the rules laid down as
above.
used by the ''"Wycombe" chairIf it can be is made and applied ? obtained ready mixed, please let me know where I shall be most likely to get it.
polish,
Books on Organ
:
Building;.
makers
Let me recommend Juvvhib writes " Organ Voicing and Tuning for Amateurs," price Is. 6d., published by Brabner, of Kingsland Road. With this useful little work, and the papers we have had, I think no amateur can complain of a lack of print
Electric Clock. T. O'C- (DundaUc) asks (1) for the necessary instructions for putting up an electric clock, according to the latest improvements; and 12) if it is possible to purchase a stove, heated by petroleum, that would heat a soldering iron.
on the subject, except, perhaps, on (a very important one to would - be organists) " Specifications," any suggestions for which
I shall be happy to give.
Induction Coll
G. A- M. B. (Langharn) wishes very much to know how to make an induction coil, not very large, for experiments, with full
instructions,
afao,
Pollsnlng Shells.
E. A. F. (Cromer) writes : In reply to H. D. E., as to the best acid for polishing shells, the following is from " Spen's Workshop Keceipts :"" Marine shells are cleaned by rubbing with a rug dipped in common hydrochloric acid till the oater dull skin is removed, washing in warm water, drying
and
also illustrations
is
aud
to be used with it, and in what proportions to mix the acid and the water. to
how
Preparing Rabbit and Other Skins. A. T. [Lewieham Park) writes : What is the best and cheai eat means to prepare rabbit and other skins for fur, aud also for leather, so a3 to make them perfectly soft
and
pliable.
L 3
248
in hot sawdust, and polishing- with dry chamois leather." Care should be taken to
AMATEURS IN
A French
:
COUNCIL.
Fittings for Cabinet Work. writes : Any cabinet maker's ironmonger. William Tonks & Sons, Moseley Street, Birmingham, I have found simply perfect to deal with also Messrs. Charles
Truing Grindstone.
Subscriber writes in reply to Delta Every grindstone wants to be trued from time to time. The usual plan adopted by professional workmen is the following: Take a piece of sheet-iron, and secure it firmly upon the trough {by band, or otherwise), close the grindstone. Let this one run gently towards the iron, which, of course, must be pushed on as it wears off.
Ghaham
off
the hands.
Waterproofing Boots. H. M. (Dublin) writes in reply to I. Police-Constable : Indiarubber is soluble in ether. To make boots waterproof, take
of suet, 8 ozs.; linseed oil, 8 02s.; yellow beeswax, 6 ozs. ; neatsfoot oil, 1 ozs.;
Churchill
&
Co.
Gbaham
at 63,
lampblack,
1 oz.; litharge,
till
Ama-
You
more or
If
less time,
JJjrper Stephen Street, Dublin, the other day. Holtzappfel keeps them in stock also Caplutzi, Chenies Street, Tottenham Court
your grind-
Road,
Gilt MouldlugB. L. M. (Bexley) writes : It may be useful to some of your readers to know that gilt mouldings can be bought of Mr. Rocheforte, 62, Houndsditch, cheaper, I believe> than at any other house in London.
Cutting Chimney of Lamp. G. C. (Manchester) writes in answer to L. B. It is possible to break the glass lamp chimney in this way. Make a small notchby means of a file on the glass, then make the end of a tobacco pipe or a rod of iron of the same size red hot in the fire, apply the hot iron to the notch, and draw it slowly along the surface of the glass in any direction you
stone is much out of true, you had better begin to bite the humps, by hollowing grooves with the sharp end of an old sawfile, secured as above.
To Frost
Silver.
please a crack will follow the direction of the iron. Yon can break glass to any required figure in this way. J. T. F. (Brixton) writes in answer to L. B. I managed to get off about 3 inches of the top of one I had in the following
;
C. M. H. \(Stonelsy) writes in answer to H. L. (Hull). The surface of the article to be frosted must be first burned with a gas or other flame and blowpipe for about a minute. Then pour a small quantity of
manner. The chimney was first packed moderately tight with old linen rags or soft cloth, this is merely to equalize the pressure made',while cutting now lay your stuffed tube on any soft bed, such as a folded tea cloth. I used one of the American glass
;
sulphuric acid into some warm water siifficient to give it a strong acid taste. Dip the article to be frosted into it f^r a minute or two, and if that has not the desired effect, boil it, then wash it with soap and water. If it is desired to burnish portions of it, do it before washing with soap and water as the silver is then soft. All iron, such as the pins of brooches, must be removed before the silver is put into the acid. I do not know if this will answer for gold
or plated silver.
Sale of Fret Sawing. Industria writes In answer to E. M.'s query, I should advise him to take his work to a fancy picture-frame maker. I have sold many pounds' worth in this manner during the last four years.
:
Browning Gun-Barrels.
In answer to Gungood way to brown barrels of guns, is to apply a warm mixture of chloride of antimony (bronzing salts). The paste must be left on for some time. After"W.
G.
writes
Barrel,
a very
cutters at Is., holding it in a similar way to a pen, working it gently to and fro with just
Bird Organ.
T. D. {Bridlington Quay) is informed that if he will drop a line to Mr. Grattan Brady, 46, Lower George Street, Kingstown, Dublin, who has a new eight-tune bird organ, of no
servicejtolhim, to dispose of very reasonably,
" bites " into the glass, moisten the cutting wheel withadrop of spirits of wine now and then; when I had completed the circle round the tube, it was examined and any place found not sufficiently cut had another touch from the cutter. The packing was then withdrawn down as far as the cutting, holding the tube in the left hand, a tap from the handle of a knife completed the operation, and away went the top of the tube. I may add the first declined to be topped, but with care it can be done. The chimneys I operated on were of the commonest description. I should suggest sawdust as being better for packing than the cloths.
sufficient pressure that it
wards, polish carefully. J. H. M. (Dublin) writes : In reply to information wanted, for receipt for browning guns, I send, sulphate of copper, 1 oz.; sweet spirits of nitre, 1 oz.; water, 1 pt.j let it stand for a few days and it will be fit
for use.
Cutting Mouldings.
in reply to E. "W. (Headwrites : I expect E. W. means returning mouldings across the end-grain of a board the ordinary moulding planes will work on the end-grain if helped out with a saw-cut to prevent their breaking away the
ley)
;
Lux Benigna
To Bend Bamboo.
writes: I am afraid have a difficulty here unless he can bring a powerful jet of steam to bear on his bamboo, which is the process adapted in making bent wood furniture.
J. T. F. (Brixton)
Carlo
will
plank face.
a.
saw-cut, and finished with a file and glasspaper. In cabinet-work, where outward mouldings constantly occur, the file, saw, chisel, and gouge, are in constant requisition.
Cutting
J.'T. F.
off
possession gives the subjoined method to cut the lower part off a glass bottle fix a thin line or cord (whipcord, or what is known as builders' line cord would perhaps answer the purpose), about 3 or 4 feet long to a hook in the wall, stand a pail of cold water close by, take the end of the line in your left hand, securely held, and twist it once round the bottle held by the neck in your right hand ; now work the bottle to and fro rapidly as possible, letting the line slacken only enough to cause the bottle to slide backwards and forwards, the object being to generate a high degree of heat by friction of the cord round the glass, which after a few seconds is quickly plunged into the water, the shock of which it is said will cause the bottom to fly off. In your particular case I should say grasp the bottle by its middle instead of the neck, and see answer to L. B.
Incubators.
J. T. F. (Brixton) writes
:W. M.
(Egre-
mont) should write to Mr. J. Currel Denley, Silsoe, Amvthilf, enclosing Is. in stamps for his book how to build the above.
and I should say the best plan would be buy one second-hand, which you can at once place on the stand, fit a band, and it Yon would have more satisis complete. faction than attempting to fit it by casting,
to involving considerable labour in finishing up, truing, etc., and then probably the result would be, your treadle power would be deficient. The Britannia Company, Colchester, have just brought out a lathe which exactly meets your requirements, and you could have it minus the stand. I will tell you how to make your emery wheels for grinding and polishing, but you cannot hope to cut one-inch boards by it, for, the reason that your driving wheel is not heavy enough, the utmost yoia could expect would be half-an-inch, aud that will take a lot of driving through hard woods.
-
required by F. V. E. (Witham), may be procured from Messrs. Saunders & Son, Victoria Gardens, Ladbrookc Road, Rotting Hill.
tubes, such as are
Anothbr Correspondent, who also gives neither name nor non-de-plnme, writes in reply to F. V. R. (Witham), that metal tubes for colours may be obtained from Messrs. Brooks & Co., Cumberland Market, Regent's Park, N.W. Graham writes : Buy one. Strip off the paper and you will see the maker'snameon it at bottom, or perhaps on the screw top.
249
late
Prince Consort.
formed of metal, cast, electrotyped, or engraved. I have had excellent specimens of metal castings done but let it be clearly understood, that if you decide on using such, the map which is to be embossed must be drawn to fit them after the cast is obtained the contraction which the molten metal undergoes in cooling
;
THE MOULD,
ETC.
is
so great that in a
map
LL
tf,1
is
now
The
^.y^|
fj ^'IasS^I
typed dies are entirely free from this objection, and are to be preferred to all
others in every respect save
cost.
I
and then
the
more than
directions.
is
:
has
all
the
merits of
Our
first
advice
electrotype at a hundredth
strive to be natural, accustom yourself to look upon nature as the best tutor, and
model
r - ..1
for
casting,
dissolve
"T
J''*c>^^*J^'
fc.
Trnn t6i t a
i
FIG.
turpentine,
in
or other
spirit,
in
Fig.
14,
from a finished
model, constructed on the spot, will give some indication regarding the appearance
to present
when
it
duce a thick creamy consistence. Warm the bottle containing this, and also the model, very slightly before a gentle fire. With a soft hog-hair pencil brush over every portion of the model. The clay will absorb much of the wax. Let it stand a few minutes to cool. Warm the wax and model again
casting.
The rockwork
of the undercliff
and
fissures in the
cliffs above it are worked in with the modelling points given in our illustration in page 210 the smooth undulations of the downs are done with the flats and
;
and brush all over a second time, carrying the dissolved wax over the whole of the surface of the map, even where it has not been modelled up,
namely, the
sea, bays, etc.
Be
and
examine whether
fine cuttings in the
the
damp
hog-hair pencils.
work
if so,
pass
it
to
and
FIG.
14. ST. CATHERINE'S HILL AND UNDERCLIFF, ISLE OF WIGHT, FROM A RELIEVO MAP OF THE ISLAND.
distance from the
fire till
Of one thing be specially assured in the final examination of your work, namely, that there is no undercutting, or miniature caverns, produced by too
great roughness of work or porosity of the modelling
clay. If
little
the superfluous
wax
is
remain to cool, and while this is going on prepare for casting by taking four pieces ot narrow thin wood of lengths to form a raised frame around the model. Tack the slips to the edges of the modelling board, so as to enclose the model in a kind
absorbed. Let
all
be
satisfactorily completed,
we now reach
of shallow box
is
Fig.
2).
Be
model of eighteen
Lies
for
embossing paper
250
of modelled work.
The
slips of
wood being
securely
wards.
is
Get someone
you
in
doing
this, as
care
tacked on (take care not to drive them home, as it will be necessary to draw them after the casting is finished), stop the corners with modelling clay to
prevent leakage, brush the
the
all
model
secure
three times.
are now ready for casting. Be prepared with a proper supply of plaster
We
of
newly burned, price about four shillings per hundredweight. This may be obtained of any plaster figure-caster, and also at most of the lime and cement warehouses. It is well not to rely on that sold at oil and colour shops, as frequently it has been long in stock, and is consequently useless.
Paris, of fine quality,
slips or jerks. If the modelling, waxing, and oiling have been properly done, the mould may now be lifted from the cast without difficulty or fracture; but if there be signs of adhesion between the two, let them So much remain longer than the hour prescribed. depends on the state of the atmosphere, and the quality of the plaster employed, that I have sometimes found a casting more ready for lifting in half an hour than at other times in thrice the space. Watchfulness and practice will soon enable the constructor to ascer-
should be found that some portions of the to the cast, do not hasten to
warm
add
till
removed
size
waxing has been thorough they far that they may be by one of your modelling tools, and
Strong
mass becomes of the consistence of thick cream. Shut all doors and windows to prevent draughts, and pour the liquid plaster steadily and continuously over the oiled surface of the model, shaking
it
can be used as a cement. It is desirable that the model should be preserved as perfect
or thin glue as possible for future purposes.
first
well
The plaster die being thus separated, let it remain on edge, or horizontally supported by narrow pieces of wood, so as to allow the air to circulate beneath it,
for
than
will
cover a depth
twenty-four hours.
It
Allow ten minutes to elapse, when a second quantity of plaster can be mixed, and the mould filled in to the required depth. Coarse plaster, which is about half the price of the When it is completely set fine, may be used for this. scrape the back to a perfect level. A piece of steel twelve inches long, or an ordinary table-knife, or a straight edged ruler, will effect this. I have found that lukewarm water that has been previously boiled preferable to cold water in mixing the plaster, as air bubbles, which so often deface a casting, are rarely
of about one and a-half inches.
examined
whether air bubbles you discover any, stop them in thus Mix a little fine plaster in a cup or saucer as for casting, scratch the bubble hole deep with a modelling point, wet it with cold water applied with a camel or hog-hair pencil, and, with the same, paint in the defect with the liquid plaster. By a few careful touches the finest modelling can thus be worked in. The die, being of considerable thickness, will
appear in any part
:
in order to ascertain
;
if
become thoroughly
it
dry, unless,
is
used.
air.
If the
not to bring
will
little
by taking
casts of
be necessary to hasten the drying take care it too close to a fire, or the plaster will dry soft and floury, and thus be useless. Drying at a moderate distance from the fire is not objectionable,
indeed, the sooner the cast
is
if it
little
it
will
become
Do
not be
is
far better
expend a
little
risk of spoiling a
model by a
first
essay.
mistaken in supposing that the cast is dry when the surface appears to be so, one is ofttimes deceived thus, a clear ring from the cast when smartly struck by the
knuckle
is
from the side of the model, and let it remain for an hour longer, taking care, meantime, to free the sides from any plaster that may have run between the side slips and the model. Before the expiration of an hour, the model and casting will begin to separate at the edges, but do not be hasty in attempting to lift your work. When about to do so, it is well to turn
slips
examined and approved, we have to will employ a cast metal, electrotype, or the cheap perfect substitute already
With the
determine whether we
2 Si
secure your map in its place by pasting long slips 'of paper on the sides of the map, and turning them down
at right angles, so as to affix
them
to the sides of
the die.
map
evenly and
thoroughly
the
What
of
it
coasts,
lowlands,
till
and
small
elevations,
and
proceed gradually
adapted for
this
kind of work, as
file
required,
in
embossing.
But we
you reach the greatest heights, or, to speak more accurately, the greatest depths of your die. Cautiously break the portions which have been partly severed by your penknife, and lay the
divided parts in their natural positions, east and west, or north and south, as the case may be. Press them
which case the electrotypist comes next under conIn every way, as already observed, excepting the
sideration.
recommends
itself to
the
map
embosser.
It is
in size
;
and
for
down into the die, then cover the fractures with narrow pieces of soft white paper, torn, not cut, at the edges. Paste these slightly before laying them on, and with a modelling tool, judiciously used to prevent
firmly
but, alas,
like
most good
things,
it is
very costly.
The price
breakage, sink them into the depths of the die that remain exposed by the fractures which you have made
from 6d. to is. per square inch, and thickness required. For some dies I have paid ,30 and 40, whereas, by a substitution, which I will presently describe, I now
electro dies varies
according to the
size
by your cuttings in the map. Go over the whole again with your paste brush and fingers. Very stiff modelling clay should be ready, and with pieces of this, properly
formed, press firmly
the paper well into
down
making
5s.
Still
it
means
for pressing
should describe the more costly process. Imagine that we have resolved on having our die
electrotyped, we must, in common prudence, test the accuracy of our modelling before embodying it in
Fill in the land evenly smoothiag the work off exactly to the coast, and bring all up to a perfect level.
place.
clay,
Take a millboard
;
or
smooth
wood
Take the unmounted map which you have used as a reference while modelling upon the mounted one
place
its
it upon your embossed map, rubbing it firmly on the back in order to completely attach the two. Cut
away the
upon the back of Bees Head, Cumberland Flamborough Head, Yorkshire Dover Cliffs, Kent St. Catherine's Head, Isle of Wight and the Land's End, Cornwall. These will serve as register points for the whole map. Run a somewhat blunt penknife along the hill shading marking the summits of the Pennine Range, the Cumbrian Group, the Cambrian Mountains, and all thehighest points in England, but do not cut quite through the map if you can possibly avoid it. Now soak the map
pencil, trace the following points
have secured the sides of your and get an assistant to raise the die gently on one edge to bring it to an angle of about
slips
that
map
to the die,
the
map
St.
degrees, yourself, meantime, holding the mounting board firmly to the embossed map. Now gently lift your work from the mould, taking especial
forty-five
hills to
touch anything,
register marks.
When
Take
saturated remove
it
from the
water,
and dry
or a soft towel.
the
map
carefully
if
upon the
plaster
Test your accuracy by pressing with the fingers upon St Bees Head, and move the map cautiously to and
fro
till
the die
fits
the pencil
mark
at the point
When
this is done,
proceed
in like
borough Head, Dover Cliffs, St. and the Land's End. These satisfactorily registered,
manner
to
which are the chief points in which errors are likely to occur. If all be well we can proceed to take our next step, and if errors are discovered they can now be rectified by cutting away portions of the die where required, or by filling in with liquid plaster and your Proofs of corrections pencil any objectionable point. may be taken on plain wet paper and modelling clav, as just recommended in the embossing process practice will soon enable the constructor to read and rectify a die as well as a model in relievo. The plaster die being completed and dried, we must now take an apparently retrograde step, in order
to
Warm
fire,
then melt
RELIEVO MAPS AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION.
in
2 52
beeswax
a
it
tin or
wooden edges
4 inches in height.
spoon, pour
Be
the
The
plaster, if well
warmed,
will readily
;
absorb a con-
all
wax
there
may be between
appear on the die being again held before the fire. It will be well to repeat the waxing a second time, which done, and the surface completely cooled, brush olive oil over every part edge it around with your wooden strips, and take a cast in fine plaster according to the But this cast need not be directions already given. more than one and a half inches in thickness. Let
;
cast.
;
Take fine plaster of Paris to every quart of this add a dessert-spoonful of alum, in powder mix thoroughly, then with lukewarm water, as already described, prepare your plaster for casting. Take
;
the
first cast.
When
in
back
it
up by a
second casting
mended, then lift it from the die, and if your work has been successfully performed, you will have a faithful copy of your original model in spotless white. This relief cast must now be prepared for the electrotypist, ist, dry it thoroughly 2nd, which is done as follows boil it in beeswax, which can be best effected by putting it into a deep tin dish, and placing it over a very
:
when
In
thickness about 4 inches. At the proper period, i.e., firmly set, scrape the back off to a perfect level.
brief,
in the para-
When
when
ready,
remove the
from the
relievo,
and
as marble.
The
slow, clear
fire,
with a sufficiency of
to
wax
to enable the
;
when
has produced the celebrated Parian Cement, and such is its fitness for geographical embossing, that
I
moderate fire if necessary 4th, with a soft hog-hair brush, go gently and carefully over the whole of the sea and relievo portions,
by holding the
cast before a
die,
trifling
deterioiation of the
original
sharpness.*
such a die
will
The model
now ready
for electrotyping.
If
Perfectly true
But as
you
at a small extra
charge.
The reasons
:
is
the boiling in
the casting.
in every way to wax the surface recommended for the plaster one namely, by warming it before a fire, and pouring melted beeswax over the whole surface. Be specially
It is
wax enables
advantageous
performed
2nd,
copper, which is held in solution in the electro bath, and thus a deposit is made which forms the die. Electro dies are made of various thicknesses, from that of sixpence up to \ of an inch. The time required for producing these, varies from four to five days to a After the electro is taken from the bath fortnight. This is done by laying it is " backed up with " lead. the electro, face downwards, on a hot iron plate, well secured around with a metal edge, in the same manner as the wooden edge is used in casting in plaster. Soft solder, or other amalgam is then worked over the whole of the back, and upon this, by repeated, judicious
extreme depths. Very be required here, as the Parian is much less porous than plaster. The Parian die being in readiness, we must now
careful that this reaches the
little
wax
will
obtain what
will require
is
technically
known
as a "force."
I
This
pro-
some
explanation, which
will
now
ceed to give for the information and benefit of the amateur map-moulder. Gutta-percha is admirably fitted for this purpose.
Procure a
such as
is
sufficient quantity at
or at a leatherseller's.
The ordinary
is
formed,
which effectually protects the die and fits it for being embossed from. But, although the description of the art we are treating of, would have been incomplete without the foregoing paragraphs on electro dies, we
think that after reading the following, on Parian dies, metallic work will seldom be resorted to. The
used for soles of shoes, is good enough for our purpose. Price about 2s. per lb. Three-eighths of an inch will be a convenient thickness. You can ascertain the quantity
1
equired,
breadth of your
in
die,
method
have practised
is
as follows
The
Prepare the
much
as de-
longer in setting.
to hasten the
till
by waxing,
Watch
work.
it
way seek
Be
Build up your
second casting
the
first is
well set
^53
AN "ARRANGEMENT
them
completely softened.
W. GLEESOX-WHITE.
Have ready a
it,
URING
men
gutta-percha upon
will
hands
in cold
When about
still
half cold,
and getting a
it
but can
be
and leading, concerning the merits and demerits of certain harmonies in blue "and silver, and arrangements in grey, a brochure was issued in defence of his works by the artist who considered himself insulted, clad in covers of homely brown paper, which was happily nick-named by the phrase I have taken for my title one which, from its utter lack of any definite hint of the subject, may be, to an
of light
carefully, the
of the die.
Now,
fingers
firmly
down
not to
move
level,
the
gutta-percha to and
and
land
sea,
smoothly spread the gutta beyond the extent of the if there be sufficient to cover the whole of the
;
so
much
the better
but this
is
not essential.
The
It is
a good plan to
it
while
prevent warping.
it
Do
will
not be in a
appear quite
to
soft in
ordinary mind, in keeping with the first cause of the pamphlet itself. But the arrangement here to be talked over and suggested (though by chance first applied by myself to a charming etching by Whistler) has no other connection with the cause cellbre than a vague trace of the picturesque, and refers to a somewhat novel application of an old rough and ready way of framing pictures that has often been used before, but hitherto chiefly in connection with very common and small articles, pictures only by courtesy, proving, however, capable of a different treatment, and admired by many artists and art lovers it has been also (sincerest flattery) imitated by nearly every person who has
;
to
an hour, according
seen
it,
that to the
it,
first
make
is
usually sufficient.
When
perfectly cold
acquaintance with
will,
may be
If all
lifted
with ease.
well,
from
will
its
has gone
you
If
now have a
perfect
In almost every
ings,
model
in gutta-percha.
it
pencil
drawings, or
do succeed. Remember that success in this simple operation depends almost entirely upon using the gutta at the right time, i.e., when about half cold, but not so much so as to be refractory in working. If
too
These linger
on,
be
than
warm
of
is
sure to be
dif-
the result
ficulty
mysterious visitation,
obtaining
is
impressions
from
this
no
difficulty if this
one
point
is
Of course,
care
and
strict
and suddenly vanish away, and never are heard of again. If these forlorn pictures were once framed, or kept with the intention to do so at a quiet
end to have referred, but the habit of taking care of them once formed, would lead to the finding and
time, not only would they be spared the sad
the
first
attempt be somewhat of a
failure,
which
is
obtained,
be retained, and impressions be taken of the defective parts, which can be used separately after the whole " force " has been employed, as will be
explained
in
saving many other suitable subjects. It is astonishing how any idea, once adopted, finds unexpected possibilities arising
[To
be continued.)
one begins collecting any object, it seems that there must have been less of it in the world, by the sudden appearance in hitherto unsusnoticed,
until
and
254
But without further preamble it will be best to Take an ordinary the proposed method.
print,
drawing or
';
Magazine of Art,
or
a volume of the former work, will be an excellent sample, or Halliday etching issued with Part XIV. of
the latter serial, and see
literally
how
it
a few pence.
First
piece
of
printed,
mount the picture with ordinary paste on a smooth cardboard. Any colour, plain or will do if it has only a fair surface, and
to withstand the
oak frame at a distance, and an ornament, or at least no disfigurement in itself, apart from the actual etching, in any room it may find itself. Pictures so treated would be useful not only for the owner's house, but (as I have found) find a very ready and profitable sale at bazaars, and make inexpensive and much-liked gifts for friends moreover, they also find a warm [welcome in the homes of the poor, as any visitor to them knows that a love for pictures, amounting almost to a passion, exists among the most squalid and unlovely surroundings. The cost of the etching, "Touched," is 6d., the glass at most 4d., the cardboard perhaps 2d. or 3d.
;
enough thickness
cardboard be the
possessed
self is 5f
warping
is,
let this
so that for
picture
little
more than a
the actual
it
may be
Contrast this
bought, framed, and hung on any wall. with the price for the commonest
state) with
equal width
round
"Dutch" metal
frame, or the once all-popular " Oxford " one, and it will be seen that it is barely
half the cost of the frame
itself,
each
side,
making the
mount
nf by
will
13 J inches,
is
may
be hidden)
the grey so easily
anywhere, while
favour with
like
it,
simple substitute
all
;
is
sure to find
all
or nearly
and
for those
who
dis-
obtained, cut from the centre a piece either 5^ by 7|, Some prefer the grey or 6j by 8j inches at will.
mount
This
is, 1
by the
much improved
by allowing no other white than that left in the drawing to destroy the value of the tones of the picHaving cut the grey mount, take a piece ture itself. of rough millboard, the top of a draper's box or other available material, cut it n J by 13 J, and at the distance of I inch below the top, and, say, 3J inches from either side, cut two short upright slits with a sharp penknife, and pass a piece of narrow tape through them this will lie flat on the surface, and should be tied behind in a knot close to one of the slits, so that a firm and unobtrusive support is left to suspend the
;
was going to say, so much the worse for their taste, but remembering in time that abuse is no argument, and as a disciple of the " higher culture " (for who, writing under such a heading, could forget the necessity of living up to it ?), it is only in keeping to ignore and refuse to allow even the possibility of the other side of the matter certainly, if monotonously insisting that the " pictchaw is beautiful " be what will be said against it. But this does not exhaust the possibilities of brown paper. Another way is worth noting. If the old gilded moulding, fly-specked and tarnishing, is well reclothed with brown paper, soaked with paste and well stuck on, so that it shows every feature of the
I
moulding,
use,
it
appearance.
before
and thoroughly moulded on to the wood. Each hollow and fillet will be seen sharply defined, and the
whole will dry hard and, while unlike paper, look somewhat like oak, and present a certain fresh character In this of its own, not attainable in any other way. case the brown paper itself is a pleasant variety to the grey mottled card for the cut-out mount and an ideal setting to many wood engravings, as it gives such value to the blacks and whites of the print, in the same way that a good photograph gains by a dark, dull
mount.
picture
when complete.
iijf
piece of glass
of these
of board, lay the millboard flat on a above that place the mounted etching, then over that the cut-out mount, and the glass above all. Next cut some thick brown paper into strips of about an inch or inch-and-half wide thoroughly paste these and bind the four thicknesses together, the brown paper showing about half-an-inch all round in the front, and well over the back, being cut in mitre fashion at the angles. When dry it will be ready to hang and, after cleaning off any paste-marks from the glass, will be found a very pleasing little picture, unpretentious
three pieces
table,
would be
of
more ornate way of adapting the same idea to add to the binding of brown paper a strip plush or velvet entirely hiding it, and put on after
is
the paper
255
spread the distemper over unsized tops, but also hang the paper on unsized walls ; but good work is always
clearcoled.
the line
effect.
For some and touch of the drawing or photograph itself with good
it is
technically called.
is
lows
Procure
it
lbs.
prepared as folabout
some water
is
To
itself,
those
who
live in
upon
and allow
it
soak, whilst
it
soaking
any old bookstall has some part of an magazine or frontispiece of an old and valueless book that is well worth securing and utilising in the way suggested. It may not be an early Durer, a noted Rembrandt, or a Meryan in a fine state, that is to be found but pictures less valuable, in a money if not an art sense, may often be met with. I came across a copy of Flaxman's " Eight Illustrations to the Lord's Prayer " (an early set), for a few pence and a nice Bartolozzi or bits of Claude's "Liber Studiorum" are often to be bought (out of the common run of
as almost
illustrated
;
place 7 lbs. of best size (price 2d. per lb.) in a vessel over the fire, with a little water to keep the size from
burning.
When
all
melted, and
is
free
the water
wooden
then
pour in the melted size, stir well until all is thoroughly mixed, and then strain through a piece of coarse muslin, coarse canvass, or a similar porous material
such as the top of a white cotton stocking.
erect
all
the ceiling
tourists*,
very cheaply.
in
And now,
eye over
praise
gallery,
it
concluding this
if I
article, as
run
my
and wonder
of
my
idea,
have not said too much in look up and see a long, low
hung with a greenish-grey paper, with here and there a shelf of blue and white pottery or a few Dutch tiles catching the light. I see that half its charm lies in the pictures that I have framed in the " simple brown paper," and feel that " The Sappho," " Sunflowers" and " Quiet Counsellors " of Tadema, Arthur Moore's " Pansies," Leighton's " Daphnephoria," Burne-Jones's " Studies," and a Meryan (" Notre-Dame "), are a true source of beauty and pleasure for that, if it had entailed the cost of some
;
is warm, using the brush Fig. 1 or Fig. and laying on the wash uniformly thin and smooth, then treat the walls in like manner. In this work we. shall learn how to handle the brush, and thus get the hand in training for the subsequent laying on of the colour. Do not put on the wash as with a trowel, nor dash it on as from a ladle, but draw the brush, charged with the wash, evenly, firmly, and smartly along in.
overlap the
your
line
and keeping the wet work between of vision and the light. After laying each
first,
it
very lightly,
smooth
finish.
frames of even the simplest sort of wood, would have been sadly but of necessity foregone and so with the proof positive so near, I offer no apologies for my much-lauded method, but hope that many a reader of this will follow the example, and thank me inwardly for suggesting this " Arrangement in Brown Paper."
thirty
;
Properly speakdistemper or in colours not mixed with oil. The word distemper covers all preparations of whiting and size, whether tinted with colour or
ing, painting in
Whitewas]tin or Distempering.
not, but
whitewash
We
and
for
for
ceilings,
is
known
as
distemper.
Distemper
prepared in nearly the same manner as the clearcole, just mentioned. The quantity required for the ceiling of an ordinary bedroom, and the method of
ceilings
II.-CLEARCOLING WHITEWASHING PRIMING WOODWORK PUTTING IN NEW SASH-LINE STOPPING, HE left our readers with ceiling and walls clean, and will now proceed to clearcole
them.
the
preparing
ing, put
it
it,
are as follows
Get
Clearcoling
to
is
it
a process of sizing
a pail and pour water on it until it is soaked and covered with water, let it stand thus for half an hour, then pour off all the water and beat the whiting into a smooth paste, using a smooth stick
in
work
lender
Meanwhile
set 3 lbs.
of best jellied
little
over a
fire in
a vessel containing a
water to
it
When
the whiting
has been got into a smooth paste, and the size has melted to a clear liquid, stir in the melted size until
256
both ingredients are well incorporated. It should be known that distemper thus prepared, without any colouring pigment, will dry yellow to make it dry
;
in the pail
of clean water,
and
working
its
white,
we must add a
little
Get one halfpenny worth of blue, black, or one halfpenny worth of ultra-blue, and mix half of it with some of the whiting, to form a paste now giind it with the palette-knife on a smooth stone until it has become
;
cutting properties.
when it appears to have lost its The use of this agent is to wear
except those requiring stopping,
to the paint.
down
and
all inequalities,
to give a
smooth surface
Remove
together,
a smooth paste, add some more whiting, mix well and then stir it with the bulk of the whiting
before the size is added to it. The whole mixture must now be strained through a piece of coarse stock-
and repeat the scrubbing and sponging smooth surface has been obtained. Priming the Woodwork. This, strictly speaking,
is
new woodwork
it
for
is
meshed
the
it
is
of the consis-
is
tence of jelly,
when
is
it
will
be
fit
for use.
When
and smooth
for painting.
will
colouring pigment
distemper
is
be noticed
become enclosed
This shell
in whit-
will
break
The
this
is
on the ceiling and leave their contents in long unsightly dark streaks. Having prepared the distemper we mount the platform, and proceed to lay it same brush, and in a similar manner as in
but with the following additions
the form of
kind of work,
is
windows and doors to exclude draughts, which may dry the work too fast, and in patches. Work with your face to the source of light, and work backwards away from
that light, so that the light
Close
raw linseed oil and turpentine, equal parts of each, and the whole tinged to a flesh tint with red lead. If the colour is bought ready mixed at the oilshop we shall require between five and six pounds to paint an ordinary bedroom but we must say here that correct
of
;
room
may
fall
on the edge of
to
be covered.
lb.,
As
to prices,
each stroke unshaded by brush or hand. Do not take up too much distemper on the brush, lay it on in straight strokes evenly, and shade off each stroke
lightly as before, with the tip
about
the
same
of the brush.
If the
ceiling
suck at the distemper and cause the brush to drag, mix a little water with the stuff until it works more smoothly. See that the work is of one uniform dark tint, inclining to blue, it will then dry uniformly white, but do not go back over any patch
seems
to
When
it
has
all
been
dry the work, and proceed to clean the woodwork and prepare it for painting. To clean and prepare the old
paintwork,
we
shall require a
shaped like a broad bladed chisel, Fig. 4, and a stopping-knife, Fig. 3 (see page m). First go over all the woodwork and examine its condition, pare off all blisters with the knife, remove any lumps of putty or dirt, moisten any greasy spots with turpentine, extract all nails, and clear out old defective stoppings. In doing this kind of work avoid roughing the wood with the knife, which should be used as a plane is used in paring off excrescences. Next go over all the paintwork with a lump of pumice stone, and use this as a scrubbing brush should be used, frerags, a knife
and turpentine 3s. per gallon. If the ingredients are bought separately they should be mixed as follows Put 5 lbs. of white lead into an earthenware colour pot (Fig. 13), price 4d. or 5d., mix a quart or more of equal quantities of oil and turpentine, pour some of the mixture on the white lead and work it with a stout wooden stirrer (Fig. 11) until a perfectly smooth but stiff mixture has been obtained, then add more of the oil mixture, and stir again until it is thin enough to be strained. Tie a piece of coarse cotton stocking material, or of muslin, over the mouth of a paint pot, pour the mixture on the strainer and work it about with a brush until only the rougher particles remain on the top. Then take off the strainer and stir in about four ounces of driers ground in oil, to this add enough red lead ground in oil to give it a flesh tint, and finally dilute the mixture with enough oil and turpentine to make it thin enough for use. We shall treat of colours and their preparation further on in a chapter devoted to this subject. At present
cost about 2s. 8d. per gallon,
:
we suppose
already ground for mixing, and therefore he will not require a muller, a slab, nor a palette-knife, but the
latter tool will
be found handy
in
257
therefore give a
is. 3d.
about
The tools required to lay on the paint will be a brush known as a pound brush (Fig. 9), price 3s. 6d., used to
spread the paint on doors, window-frames, wainscoting,
sure to hold some dirt. All new tools and brushes should be bound around with cord, as shown at Fig. 22 until their tips have been worn.
If
we call
in the painters
for
rarely
sur-
/^
large
7),
sash
price
(Fig.
is. 3d.,
the
window
is
it
sashes
a small sash
condition, for
it
to drive
if they
a undertake
painting
the
narrow
to paint a
room they
work.
The
is
outside of the
fig. 12.
window
if
unless
it
is
specified in
;
the
contract
the
and held
in
paint
pots must
yield
the
tin
palm
pail
to
a small
15),
and window fastenings need repair, and the panes are loose for want of a bit of putty, that is no part of
sash-lines
their duty
;
(Fig.
price
they
may
way
draw your
it
attention to
in
friendly
it
the advan-
and say
ing
ought to be
tage
of being
much
and
more handy,
expanding
the broad
top
a cleaner dip of the brush or tool. Fig. 10 shows a large brush similar to a pound
brush,
at
But it unnoticed. amateurs will not feel themselves tied by any such trade customs, and it will be well for
them
to
see to these
the
on any
paint.
If the
sash-lines
are
much
in
worn
and appear
the
used,
dusting
as
brush,
the
for
name
brushing
implies,
wear,"
it
will
be well
the
dust
painted.
If this
is
purpose
is
sold at
the
it
paint
gritty
16.
PUTTY
FIG. 17.
PUTTY
KNIFE.
BOARD.
sizes to
Some
until
persons use
it
brush
for
this
it
will
be
well, therefore, to
purpose
it
gets half
the size of the groove, before procuring the new cord, and also to estimate the length required, getting a few
feet over, rather
be recommended
hair or wears
it
To Put
side
m a New Sash-line.-To
and
to avoid breaking a
it
258
will
be well to provide yourself with a mate, then proceed as follows If the broken line belongs to
:
hand,
tie
a loop
in
it
to
keep
it
from slipping
and
let it
is a simple one get a wood one will do, and if you have a choice of chisels select an old blunt chisel in preference to a new sharp one, because the latter will be most surely blunted, and perhaps have a broken edge to boot, before the job is finished. Insert the edge of the chisel between the beading and the window frame, and gently ease the beading off by using the tool as a lever, commence about half-way up and ease off a small length at a time, you will soon draw the nails, then gently bend the beading outwards in the form of a bow, slip the lower end out of the notch at the bottom of the frame and take the beading off, if this is done carefully no marks will be left to show that it has been done after the beading is replaced, nor will the beading be broken. The sash may now be lifted and moved inward at one end, leaving the other end held by the sound sash-line whilst your mate holds the sash open as a door would be opened, search near the bottom part of the frame for a crack (shown at A, Fig. iS) indicating that a piece of wood has been let
must be taken
off
it. The broken piece of cord by drawing the nails, and the
remove
this piece of
wood by
insertit
new cord, then get a few "inch clouts," i.e., broad, flat-headed nails, get your mate to hold sash-line in one hand and sash in the other whilst you nail the line with the clouts into its groove in the sash. If only one line is broken or needing repair, replace the strip of wood and middle beading, replace the sash, then the outer beading in its place, by putting in the two ends, whilst the middle is bent, and a few taps with a light hammer will nail all close. If both lines are broken, the sash must be taken out and both ends receive similar treatment. If the lines of the top sash are broken or needing repair, it will be necessary to proceed first as for repairing the lower sash, and in most cases it will be best for the amateur to remove the lines from the lower sash, knot or loop the ends, take out the sash, and set it aside whilst repairing the lines of the top sash. The middle or dividing beading must be removed to repair the top sash-lines, then proceed as in repairing those of
groove cleared out for the
the lower sash.
outward; if it does not come away kindly take off the dividing beading too, for perhaps this beading holds
in
hand,
it
will
be
opening is now made into the which holds the sash weights, and in this the weight will be found. Draw out the weight, untie the old line, measure off a corresponding length of the new line, or measure off this by the following rule add from a foot to fifteen inches to the height of sash and cut the sash-lines to that length, i.e., supposing the height of sash to be 2 ft. 6 in. cut the sash-lines 3 ft. 9 in., this will allow length enough for tying to weight and fastening to sash, and the bottom weight will then hang near the top of the lower sash. But we have now to fasten the line to the weight, and this should be done before the line is cut, how shall we get the end in over the pulley and
it
in
position.
An
receptacle, or box,
window panes and their settings, with a view to making all good before painting the sashes. Broken panes should be replaced with new
ones, loose putty should be cleared out,
re-set
The
frag-
ments of old panes should be cut out, and this is done with an instrument known as a " hack knife " (Fig. This is made with a blunt back, and is used 21).
together with a light the knife, and thus cutting
If the
putty
is
extra care
must be taken
rabbet,
down
to the weight
We
shall require a
for this
mouse
is
to
do
A"
mouse "
this
purpose
merely
down between the edges of the putty and the rabbets. Most vendors of window glass will cut the panes
measurement, but the exact measurement must be fit. To cut glass an instrument known as a glazier's diamond will be required, and a T-square or straight-edge, and also a two-foot rule. The operation is simple enough, but amateur glaziers must expect to break a few panes, and also to cut their hands before they become proficient I therefore advise them to buy panes cut to size. When all the old putty and glass has been cut cleanly out, pinch off a few bits of new putty with the putty-knife,
to
a long thin
strip,
same
diameter as the
of the cord
Insert the
easily
it,
attached the windowlength of strong twine or whipcord, and the other end
line, to
is
will
curve,
after
and after it the sash-line, feel for the mouse at the hole in the bottom of the box and gently draw the sash-line in through the hole over the pulley, fasten the
draw it up until the bottom of the half-way up, cut off the cord half-way up the window frame whilst you hold the upper portion in
line to the weight,
weight
is
and spread them evenly along the edges, corners, and on the sides of the frame, then put in the pane of
BOW TO MAKE A
a shuffling motion over the pane, and
itself
2 'J,9
above-mentioned lining of in the space between the edges of the pane and its frame with putty applied
level
against
the
freely, clear out crevices and faulty places well, and give those parts which will require stopping special attention, dabbing the paint well into them.
putty.
Then smoothly
fill
When
Where Armed
commence
attention.
with a putty knife (Fig. 16) or, in lieu of that, use the stopping knife let the putty lap the edge of the
;
:
with the stopping-knife and a lump of stopping held on a palette-board, or a board cut as shown
(Fig. 17),
pane in a line fair with the supporting edge of the frame inside, neatly bevel it with the point of the knife, then trim and stop the roughness and crevices
inside.
Putty is made with finely-pulverised dry whiting, through a fine sieve, and mixed with raw linseed oil, to form a stiff paste, which is then kneaded with the hand as dough is kneaded, and allowed to dry for a day or two, it is then worked up again in small pieces, and if required for a very exposed situasifted
and when they are firmly full, allow the stopping to stand above the surface of the woodwork. Next day, or the day after, go over all those deep cracks again, and you will find the stopping shrunk down nearly level in drying, and it can then be smoothed off with the stopping-knife or a piece of glass-paper. Where a dent has been made in the woodwork with a hammer, or by a blow from any other instrument, it will be necessary to prick the
cracks,
is
mixed with
putty
is
it.
make
soft
made
oil, and white lead one part to ten of the whiting a little salad oil is also added to prevent the lead from hardening too soon and cracking off. Putty may be coloured by mixing the required
added
;
in the proportion of
pigment, such
whiting.
as
ochre
is
or
lamp-black,
with the
made, it should be kept in an earthenware pot, wxapped up in a wet cloth and if it gets hard, it may be softened by heating it, beating and kneading it whilst warm. We have found the " soft " putty above-mentioned a most troublesome article in practice, and therefore forbear to recommend it. Putty made with well-dried and pulverised whiting, mixed with raw linseed oil, and allowed to mellow in a keg or cask for a few months, has no superior. We never colour putty by putting a colouring pigment in the whiting, but tint it by a process which shall be explained further on. It will be well to add that rabbets of window frames should have a coat of priming put on with an outside sash-tool (Fig. 19) after the old putty is cleared out, and before the new pane is put in, and the amateur should see that his putty is quite soft, and free from grit or
After putty
;
continued beyond the edge of the defect the stopping must then be pressed well into those holes, and the patch smoothed off level with the surrounding surface. Indeed, the aim of the process is to make a perfectly smooth surface for the paint. When the stopping and coat of paint is quite dry, the work must next be rendered quite smooth by rubbing it down with glass-paper. To do this, get a sheet of glass-paper, wrap it around a piece of wood 4 by 3 by 1 inch, and use it as a scrubbing-brush on
smooth.
Wrap
Thus continue until all has been rubbed down smooth brush off all dust caused by this process, and then proceed to lay on another
;
coat of paint.
{To
be continued.)
HOW
lumps.
Stopping
is
CLABK.
common
per
putty.
It
can
at 2jd.
lb.;
and
glaziers'
Before we commence stopping the cracks and defects of the woodwork, we must apply a coat of
colour
first
may
" second coat already mentioned, the This being already on old paintwork. be applied, with the pound-brush, to broad sur;;
the
coat
any preliminary or unnecessary I shall at once proceed to show how anyone may make, at a moderate outlay, a small electrical machine, by means of which a severe shock may be sent through as many as a dozen or more people who
remarks,
are joining hands.
ITHOUT
where these are See that the wood is free from grit and dust before you lay on the paint, use the dustingfaces, or with the smaller brushes,
required.
The
first
is
a small
cylinder.
One about
long by 3J
in.
in
diameter
260
HOW TO MAKE
at Messrs.
may be bought
Townson and
Bishopsgate Street Within, E.C., for about is. 8d., and larger sizes at proportionate prices. I may here mention that this house can supply any or all the requisite
articles for the machine about to be described. Having procured the cylinder, take a square stick of any hard wood about one foot long, make it round like an ordinary blacklead pencil, only rather wider in diameter
machine,
tention to
and I would
it.
at either side of the cylinder, into which the stick will have to be placed. Try if the stick will go into the holes if it be too large, reduce the size
;
If this cap
now
fits
well,
make another
exactly
slightly
will
by rubbing
it
with glass-paper.
;
Again
try
if it
if still
little
keep them in a fixed position, head of which has been previously taken off) be driven through the cap into the wooden stick.
(the
may
more with
make
The
For
this
Fig.
A A, Cylinder B B, Axis through Cylinder D, Handle to axis with pins through holes shown in each squared end of axis. pin passing through secur.'d with
1.
C,
11
II
9.
THE
PRIME CONDUCTOR.
when
the
machine
it
is in
inches long,
;
consequently must
impossible to
fit
so tightly that
would be almost
move
left
it.
is in the cylinder, with an equal on each side, and that it is so closely fitted that it will not move, the next thing to be done is to make two caps. To do this, take a square piece of hard wood about J inch larger than the outside measurement of the necks of the cylinder, round off the corners with a rasp or file until you have made
Assuming
the stick
length being
one of the ends cut a square hole just large enough to admit one of the ends of the sticks which runs through the cylinder, which of course will have to be squared to the same size, and about \ inch down, so that when the handle is put on the cylinder, there will be \ inch of the squared stick extending beyond it. Make the handle fit as accurately
finished
at
when
and as
while
it
it
that
is
to say, a roller
Now mark
on one of the
working the machine, it will cause endless When the handle is on, trouble and annoyance. drive a headless French nail through the centre stick outside the handle, and as close to it as possible, so
as to prevent
it
ends the
size of
coming
off again.
and hollow out the part so marked with a chisel or other convenient tool as deep as the neck of the cylinder. Having done this, bore a hole through the remainder of the block, but large enough only to allow
To complete
wood
inches in diameter and 4 inches long, round off the ends, and fit it with an ordinary screw to the other end of the part already joined to the cylinder.
It is
of
HOW TO MAKE A
>6i
WITH
FIG. 6.
FIG.
J.
UPRIGHT.
FIG.
FIG.
8.
FOR JAR.
THE
CUSHION
AND
FOOT, COMPLETE
FIG 12.
4
*v
("FIG.
AND CH UN
16. DISCHARGING
ROD.
FIG.
FIG.
ready
fop. use.
II. CUSS JAR COVERED WITH TIN FOIL. Dotted line shows height of foil inside.
/"\
\,!
H','.
r
FIG. 7.
FOOT
FIG. 17.
DISCHARGING ROD
IN OPERATION.
OF CUSHION
262
HOW
TO
must not
be fixed, but
must move
so
that
when it be turned, the part intended to be held will be unmovable in the hand. The sketches in Fig. 1
will
more
structions."
The
make is a
a piece of wood J inch thick, one inch wide, and in length about 1 inch less than the sides of the cylinder. Cut a notch in the
the cylinder.
For
this take
middle of the back of it, or, to speak more strictly, in the middle of one of the flat sides, and let the notch be about \ inch deep, and nearly an inch wide. This piece of wood is shown in Fig. 2. Then cut a
piece of coloured thin leather (which
as wide as to go nearly round
above the board when fixed into their places. The upper end of one of them (Fig. 5) is to have a hole bored in it with a centre bit just slightly larger than the end of the pivot of the cylinder, which will revolve in the former. The end of the other upright (Fig. 6) is to have a slit made down the top (stopping on a level with the hole in the other one) for the handle end of the cylinder to rest in, where it is to be secured by a piece of wire passed through the upright when the cylinder is in its place this wire is seen at I. Next procure a strip of hard wood ij inch wide, inch thick, and 3 inches long, cut a hole along one part of it as at K (Fig. 7), and drill a hole $ inch in
maybe
obtained
diameter at another part, as seen in the sketch at then get a flat piece of wood, cut it at one end to
the hole
L,
L,
fit
Glue
this leather at
it
the top and bottom of the wood, so that the front of the wood loosely, that it
passes over
after-
may be
and gradually make it thin towards the let it be of the same length as the uprights. Glue it to the foot-piece as seen at M, and glue the cushion on the upper end of it, at such a
top end, and
wards stuffed with wool or hemp, and form a soft pad. At the same time fasten up one end of the cushion by gluing the leather carefully and smoothly over it. Now let the glue dry, and when dry, stuff the cushion by the aid of a wire, and fasten up the other end with glue. It will next require a flap of leather and silk. Decide now which end of the cushion shall be the bottom, and that being fixed upon, glue a second piece of leather of the exact length of the cushion upon the first piece along the lower edge, but not anywhere else, observing that as the first leather had its coloured side outwards, this piece must have its coloured side inwards and consequently it is the coloured side which
;
height as that
when
the foot-piece
is
made
to rest
on
in the
Now
foot
its
place,
and
upon the stand, and letting the handle hand with regard to the cushion. To be quite clear on this point, supposing the cylinder to be lengthways in front of you the side for the cushion is the one nearest you, the side furthest from you (as we shall see later on) is for the
resting
its
prime conductor.
the cushion in
height
to
its
is
of the right
is
glued
down
to the former.
When
upper edge
complete
is
shown
in Fig.
3.
is
Now
make
flat
For the first of these, procure a piece of smooth wood, about 1 foot long and 9 inches wide, and an inch or more thick, round well off all the edges and corners and make them quite smooth, then measure the length of the cylinder with its caps on t along the piece of wood (measurement from the end of one cap to the end of the other, take no notice of
cushion.
i
most projecting part of the cylinder, and that it is of the same distance from each end of the length of it. Hold it so close as to touch the cylinder, and make a mark on to the board, close to the end of the slit say at about the dotted lines at N N. Bore a hole at this mark, and get a brass knob from any ironmonger's, which has a nut to fit the screw of it. The larger and stronger this knob is, the better. I may mention that the length of the screw must be i inch shorter than the thickness of the cushion foot, and the foot-board together. Let the
reach
the
its
will
suppose to
hold the cushion securely, and the silk flap will go over the top of the cylinder. It is almost needless to mention that the width of the upright for the cushion is to be exactly that of the notch at the back
will
lines G,
in Fig. 4.
On
the
of
it,
as previously described.
marks cut two holes as at H, H, quite through the board. Then make two uprights as in Figs. 5 and 6. The lower end of each is to fit into
the holes H, H.
The
next thing to
9).
make and
this
ductor (Fig.
For
wood about
file
ins.
long and 2
ins. in
8 inches
HOW
tinfoil,
TO
263
may
unevenness,
all
let it
Now make
conductor rather towards one end of it, and with a very fine bradawl make small holes along it about \ inch apart ; into these holes drive pins (the
line along the
off),
leaving the
points standing outwards about J inch. The sketch given in Fig. 9 will indicate this more clearly.
There may be about fifteen pins, and the whole length of the row may be rather less than the length of the cushion. Hold the conductor to the cylinder on the opposite side to where the cushion is, so that the end P may be to the right hand (looking at the side where there is no cushion) or the end removed from the handle. It will not be seen that the conductor, owing to the pins being nearer to one end than the other, will not be exactly in the middle of the stand. When it is so held, mark that which is the under side, the pins being towards the cylinder, and in that under side bore a hole, i inch or more deep, and the same in diameter, the position of the hole is to be equally distant from both ends of the line of pins. There is to be a small hole made at the longest end of the conductor, and a thick wire with a ball at the end of it, driven into it as represented at O. The ball and wire at the end of the conductor may be of any
sort of metal, brass certainly looks best, but a piece
have been correctly made and put together, have the appearance shown in Fig. 10. Assuming all this is perfect, there is no doubt that with a little contrivance and good management sparks an inch long may be obtained. To put it in work, it will be first necessary to make or procure a little electrical amalgam. It can be made as follows Get a piece of zinc about as large as a pea, melt this in a pipe, and add to it one ounce of quicksilver, which will be about five Stir them together, and when protimes as much. perly united, pour them on the hearth to cool when cold, the mixture will be soft enough to break into
:
This
time.
is
will
of
If
it
thought too
much
make
the
amalgam, it may be bought ready for use for 6d. per ounce, which quantity will go a good way. To apply the amalgam, take off the cushion, grease with the end of a tallow candle that part of the flap which goes next to the cylinder (the leather part, not
the
silk),
it is
Then spread a
of the
amalgam over
the flap
which has been greased, till it presents a bright metallic appearance this amalgam should extend from one end of the flap to the other, but not be above half-
it.
This being prepared, put the cushion in its place, and then let the whole machine be well dusted, and then placed before the fire so as to get gradually and
equally
it,
answers
warm
all
over.
Dust
silk
it
every purpose.
Brass balls
may
be bought J inch in
any and do
diameter for
3d.,
a very dry
warm
is
handkerchief or a piece
preferable),
and
particularly
and
This
is
most
rate
be about nine inches. This may be bought at the of is. per pound. Simply say you want nine
important as a little breath even on the rod of the conductor would cause a failure. Fasten the cushion,
so that
it
machine be
knuckle
in
good
file,
ends for about half-an-inch on a grindstone, or with a and cement one end into the hole underneath the
conductor, and
when
fluid
row of pins
mark where
the
in,
and another, so long as the machine is being turned. It would be a good plan to have a clamp to the machine to fix it to the table, as then your left hand would be at liberty. All the above directions are very plain, and the whole management of the machine so very easy, that
with
little
the points shall agree with the pivot and cushion, observing also that the hole should be so far back, that
care one
difficulty is
when
the conductor
is fixed,
attended
a point
;
to.
The
is
electric fluid is
that
cut off the silk of the cushion in a line just above the
row of
pins.
The machine
is
now
complete, and
if all
along the conductor towards the cylinder- -to collect the fluid from the cylinder. Any point, therefore,
264
which
it.
HOW TO MAKE
is
To a
near the cylinder draws the fluid away from small degree other shaped bodies draw off
is
required
when
it
the machine
is
in
that
is
pointed at
quantity for
producing striking
For
no noses, no sticks, no elbows. Take care also that there is no dust upon the machine and no filaments of threads, for every particle is a point drawing away the fluid. And above all things, see that the cylinder and conductor leg are perfectly dry j therefore, do not breathe upon them, and for so small a machine it would work the better if it were wanned every quarter If the handle turn very easily, of an hour or so.
it,
purpose a Leyden jar is necessary. These of course can be bought, with polished mahogany tops, brass rods, and balls complete, at the following prices:
Capacity
Price
.
.
2/6
ii
2
5 '6
3
7/-
pints
3/6
4/6
9/6 each
but
it
may
who
will
interest themselves in
making an
it
any part of
it
being
would be necessary to recommend, viz., 2 pints. I will therefore describe how one may be made for certainly not more than 2s.
Procure a glass
jar
(Fig.
11),
machine to purchasing one, and this obtain one of the size I would
electrical
the
cylinder looks
very
greasy
diameter
pacity,
and
being
of 2 pints' ca-
careful to see
much
;
tal-
no flaws nor
cracks
as
it
low
it
must
in
it,
then
would be no
what-
done
part
without
the
good
ever.
disturbing any
of
Next cut
tin-
a piece of
foil
machine,
by
Fig.
the width
holding a silk
of about three 10. Machine Complete. A, Stand B, Upright of Cushion C, Silk flap of Cushion; D, Cylinder; E, E, Caps; F, Handle; G, Prime Conductor; H, Glass
; ;
handkerchief
against
cylinder
parts
height of
jar
the
the
the
when
it
Rod
supporting Conductor.
If the
handle turn
first,
it
;
stiffer after
it
inside.
did at
machine
stiff,
is
in
however,
will
warm
good working order if it turn too the flap and wipe the cylinder
;
be the bottom, and then cut little notches all along the length of it. This tinfoil is to te pasted with ordinary paste inside the jar, the notched part
to
if
this
When
the
machine ceases
or
damp
is
clinging to
is
that
is
certain.
may
is
Now cut a disc, also in tinfoil, the size of the jar, or* perhaps rather less, paste it, and fix it to the bottom cf the jar inside. See that this, as well as that which has
been pasted on the sides, is all perfectly even no rough edges nor ridges. Now cut another piece of tinfoil, rather longer than to go round the jar outside, and in width, to be when pasted on the jar about a Notch quarter of an inch above the tinfoil inside. again the bottom side, paste it carefully and evenly on
the outside of the jar, and turn the notched part nicely Lastly, cut another disc rather under the bottle.
much
less
as what
is
In larger it has got very old and hard. machines than the one described, a chain is usually hung from the cushion to the table, as the fluid is more easily collected from the ground. This addition on the conto a small machine would do no harm When the trary, it might work the better for it.
unless
;
smaller than the bottom of the jar, and paste that on. Now get a brass ball (Fig. 12) such as you had for the
II
XVII.
OF
AHASSfiS
MM,
filBSfllfSS
VIOLIN-MAKING AS
IT
WAS AND
Models
for the
H,
I, J,
K, L.
M, Cramping Blocks
THE VIOLIN: HO TV TO MAKE
prime conductor, and fix it to a brass rod about six ins. long, at the other end of which drill a hole and insert _.the end link of a brass chain about nine inches long. Next cut a disc of \ inch wood, exactly the size to fit
pretty tightly inside the top of the jar,
IT.
265
the other ball of the rod touch the ball of the jar,
immediately before the two balls touch, the fluid will pass in the form of a spark. This operation will be
readily understood
will
At
and glue one on the top of the other (Fig. 13). When it is done it will have the appearance of a kind
of stopper for the
jar.
and
rod.
the position
when
in the act of
When
charged
is
In this
way
anyone
former (Fig.
14).
In conclusion,
will repeat
my
cautions, which
leap on the
est
jar, letting
must be
Fig. 15).
The
15
it.
The next
Lo
thing
is
to
make
it
work, or to charge
machine and jar be quite free from dust, let them be thoroughly warmed before the fire before using, so as to get rid of any moisture that may be on either, though, perhaps,
First, let the
;
hairs, etc.
secondly,
be very careful to warm it, and let the uncovered part of the glass above the tinfoil be wiped Then, having the machine clean, and perfectly dry. In perfect order, bring the Leyden jar to it, and let the srass ball rest against, or be very near to, the ball of the conductor, turn the handle (in an outward direction, of course, having the handle of the right hand), and sparks will pass from the conductor to the jar,
do
this,
And in wishing success to every one who may attempt to construct an electrical machine from the foregoing instructions, I may mention for their own satisfaction that a shock from a machine of the size described will never injure anyone if passed through the arms; but, at the same time, would advise them to be careful not to experimentalize on
invisible to the eye.
when
the jar
is
held a
little
way
off.
-$
<
you have turned the handle ten times, remove the jar from the machine by catching hold of St as near the bottom as possible on the tinfoil. Re[main holding it, touch the brass ball with the knuckle lof the other hand, and you will, the instant you do this, receive a shock which will pass through your two
say,
When,
THE VIOLIN
By
HOW
TO MAKE
IT.
EDWARD HERON-ALLEN.
see the
(For Illustrations,
II, THE
Supplement
to this Parti)
[arms.
MOULD AND
il
ITS ACCESSORIES,
il
[the shock
la terra e
cielo e l'onda
and then twenty, and so on, and you will .soon get to know what strength of shocks so many turns will give. You may give a dozen people a shock tall at one time let them join hands, and let the perrson at one of the ends take hold of the outside coating of the jar, and the person at the other end touch
(fifteen turns,
k ;
SHE
first thing to be done is to decide upon the model of your instrument, and make your mould. Moulds are of two
say quickly
for
sorts
is solid,
;
it
will
I
draw
may
mention that
and round which the fiddle is made and " the outside mould," which is cut out like a frame, and inside which the fiddle is made. Of the former
at present we are going to on or outside mould. The latter the on make this fiddle your model and outline, if first step is to decide upon you wish to copy any given master, or if you wish to produce your own Original model, you will find direc(I may say that tions for this in Vol. I., page 208. unless you wish particularly to copy any particular fiddle, you cannot do better than adopt the model, outline, mould, etc., given in the plate accompanying
I
To
shall
speak
later
would try
Perhaps some of
seeing the effect
my
can do by using what is consists simply of a ^iece of stout brass wire, bent as shown in Fig. 16 Snd having a brass ball fixed at each end
;
this they
termed a discharging-rod.
It
When
the
left
charged with the fluid, hold it with hand as near the bottom as possible, and take
the jar
is
which is that of a Stradiuarius of the most finished elegance.) The first thing is to take an
this chapter,
66
IT.
it,
may be
so
then transfer this to a sheet of wood -rs inch thick, rather larger than the outline. Then with iheji/ies/ fret
or
illustrates.
All
bow-saw cut this out as evenly as you possibly can, sparing no pains to keep your cutting free from all
irregularities.
which
is
it
from which
one, of
c,
Make
tracing
Mark on
number
line
all
cut out,
the
the
and showing
down
B.
Then make
A B
in the plate.
Having ascertained
wood,
it
is
mould
//hole
mark
by
drawing from top to bottom the line a e. Take your plank outline, down which a line is drawn, and place it on the plank which is to form the mould so that the line down the centre of your outline coincides exactly with the line A B down the centre of the mould.
in this position so
move
at either
it
AB
(if
necessary, fixing
thus
with cramps),
draw with a fine point the exact outline of your plank on the board, and make it indelible by scratching it You will then have the into the surface of the wood. To measure outline C, c, C drawn on your mould. the breadth from the extreme edge to the sides, allowing for wear, and guided by the eye, draw a line right
round inside the line c, preserving the same distance between -them throughout, you will then have traced on the plank the line D, D, D. Then cut out very gradually, and with the same amount of care as you devoted to cutting [your outline, all the wood inside
the line D,
left
its centre, the sound-post E, and the Glue this tracing to a leaf of wood,] sufficiently large, and cut it out most carefully, as it] is your plank outline to which I have referred before. I Cut out the sound-post E, and the /hole F; this! latter must be carefully reproduced en the opposite] side of the line A B to form the other / hole. ItJ will be noticed that at the bottom of the mould (or! shaded part) the words "back" and "belly" area printed, this means that to save room, and as botlifl sides of a back and belly are identical, I have made! the right-hand half represent the belly, and the left-J hand half the back. If you turn to page 209, Vol. I.J you will find that the curved lines on these two halves; correspond with those on Figs. 30 and 31 on thalj page, which bears two small outlines, showing thes^
;
A B down
F.
same markings.
31)
By
make two
them being a
full-size
enlargement of Fig
30,
Draw
right!
Your mould
is
now
But
1,2, 3,4,5]
we have seen
(p.
I.)
Draw
and
hand
s T s in
the// holes,
and also.! which runs fremf and the line 8, which runs!
;
deviation, which
arrived at by turning
lines
it
over (so
the ob-
as not to plane
away the
C and A
b)
and planing
is
from bottom to bottom of the // holes. You have,., therefore, now a tracing from which to make your.'
mould, a tracing of the outline C, C, C with // holes, and sound-post from which to make your plank out-
round
depths
tained.
it
till
got a hollow
mould
of the
symmetry the lines A B and c, a thin plank outline exactly corresponding with the line C, down the exact centre of which runs a line correslast
and two tracings, showing respectively the outand thicknesses of the back and belly, instead! of the confused mass of lines, etc., which are found j
line,
(
lines
ponding with the line A B on the mould. On this plank outline proceed to mark in their exact
the position of the
Next, make of thin in the drawing of the mould. hard wood the eleven "guides," figured actual size. These are respectively, 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, the model] or elevation of the arching of the back, taken frori
the edge to the join (a
I, 2, 3, 4,
b,
and the// holes F. You may, if you like, add the purfling, which is represented in the illustration by the line D, or boundary of the mould. Before we go further, it may be well to explain fully the nature of this illustration. For purposes of worksound-post
E,
and 5 respectively; 7 and 8 show the archingf" of the belly and back between the centre bouts or c'% along the lines 7 and 8; and 9, 10, 11, and 12 show the
arching of the belly, taken along the lines
9, 10, 11,
and
12.
DECORATIVE CARPENTRY.
-the line
267
the sizes of the
A B
is
made by
wood
on the plate. It will be observed that the guide No. S is merely a doubled form of No. 3, and shows the arching of the
to the curve of the line c, c, c
forms the framework in every part squares must be regulated by the them, a 4-inch
tile
chosen to fill being used for the dado. The strand itself would be 42 inches in width, and the height of table governed by the height of the wainscot, the
tile
mould are the crampwhich are represented in their actual size at H, 1, j, K, l,m. These are pieces of wood cut the
last accessories of the
The
middle
is left
open
to receive sticks
ing-blocks,
the centre panel at the back, and hooks for hats are
same depth
points H,
1,
as
the mould, to
fit
its
curves at the
this
is
J,
k, L,
and
respectively,
marked on the
shaded part of the mould. The outer edges, or those which touch the sides, are lined with a thin sheet of cork, represented in the figures of the cramping blocks by the shading. These pieces are used to
should not
front door.
(I
think) be placed in
full
neath the table parts, and the lower part on either side enclosed by small doors to hold skates or other
items not in daily request.
cramp the
sides
shape, in
manner
of
The
hereinafter appearing.
So much
and accessories
tile,
what
and
is called " the outside mould." The other form, or " inside mould," will be described in another place, I
in drawing, or with
hope
wise differing in
are
many
we
Outlines and models for the neck and scroll, and other parts of our present
to construct.
fiddle,
now going
is placed over the be arranged to carry a clock, in this case it would be better immediately The whole piece of wood-work above the mirror. should be, of course, painted, or of the same material
shelf
may
and taken from the same instrument that has served us as a pattern for this mould will be duly given in their proper places. When 1 have finished it, I hope to present to our readers another set
of models, this time of a Guarnerius fiddle, as complete in themselves as those already (and to be) given,
it
would be
best,
perhaps,
and with-
here
will
but as so
much
come them
I
think
of
accompanied by instructions as to processes differing materially from our present scheme. Having, therefore,
number
set
to
prepared our mould and arching models, let us work to build our fiddle, and remember
et ubi consu/eris,
mature
an odd corner, as
(To be continued.)
and a
DECORATIVE CARPENTRY. FOR THE ARTISTIC AND USEFUL ADORNMENT OF THE INTERIOR OF EVERY HOME.
By
J.
plain wall) that would allow of the addition of a corner-cupboard sufficiently out of the way to be no impediment to passers-by, but yet very handy and
useful to keep the various waifs
and
strays of a house-
doomed
W. GLEES0X-WH1TE.
and other
and
gloves,
and
similar things
EFORE
now, as
fixtures,
almost
in
have chosen for this chapter, and which forms a fitting continuation to that which
precedes
it,
overlooked.
form
The
carpentry
is
so simple,
think
it
desirable to
make
a few additional remarks on the illustration of a combined hat-rack, umbrella-stand, and hall
was given in Fig. 5. This design is intended rather as a suggestion to be altered and adapted as needed, than as a working drawing. Wood J- inch to inch thick, and 2 inches wide
table that
and merely of the same class as the fittings already described, that working drawings would be hardly necessary, the more so as in this case the space to be filled must govern the size and form of the cupboard or shelf. But in any case the intention is that it shall be a fixture, made of the same wood as the wainscot or dado, and with decoration, if any, in liar-
268
DECORATIVE CARPENTRY.
with the rest
level as the
rail rail
;
mony
of
chair-
the
work,
that
shall
so
but another
is
finished,
the
added,
or,
whole
into
its
retire
proper place
one, to form a
and
that,
prevent
the
from the
dusting
shelf,
fre-
regarded,
rightly, as
quent
the
of
perhaps
belonging to a piece
of furniture.
In
the
design,
In Fig. 1 3 another
the dado
is
kept,
and
also
that
of
the skirting-board,
of
the
govern
place
also
the the
of the
cupboard, for
sake,
utility's
en-
closes
a than
but
larger
space dado,
the
FIG.
12.
CORNER
independently
plain
of
made
doors
of the
with
wood
having
lining the
walls, as indi-
upper
the
cated
sketch.
in
the
row
four
in
The
wainscot,
to
(if
but
shelves
may
for
each
space
be
use,
kept
door
and afford
allows of two
doors), or one
door
panels
of
four
is
doors
or
are
to
if it
being opened,
to
necessary
serve
economize the
hold
large
room.
The
is
pot or statue,
lower shelf
the
the
level
and add
to the
decoration
the dwelling.
of
In Fig. 14 a
which
shows
sides
still
the
the
very
shelf
is
simple shown,
for
of
recess
below
the cupboard.
The
top shelf
is
of cupboard
on the same
given in Fig.
DECORATIVE CARPENTRY.
(in
269
the
December
It
common
older
in
our
will
houses
its
is
and
churches
(apart
cot itself
is
height-
from
ritual use),
and
of such eviall
who have
seen the
give the
allow
idea of support to
the
shelf,
that
FIG.
I.).
it
worthy
which
fit
SIMPLE
of any amount of
praise; hardly
should also
into
any
FIG.
FIC. 17.
SQUARE
of
stability.
its size
plan,
so
to
much
in
character
the house,
itself
and
not
be
merely
than
screen
a
of
simple
draped
tains,
with
cur-
woodwith
work,
either
or without curtains.
door in
maintain-
By
cutting
it
up the
really
space,
and
gives
the
impreseffect
sion of
more room.
of
fur-
The
art
space taken up by
suggesting
building
visible,
noise
of
its
and
fre-
not fully
was
so
270
shutting, while in
tion.
is
a pleasing decora-
cal parts.
intend,
may
In one house
know, a small
hall has
been treated
1 5,
chapter to mantels and over-mantels, so that this possible feature of the hall, but,
if
with the
Such a screen might be made of inch or inch and a half deal, or other wood, simply framed in the ordinary way, the lower portion continuing the wainscot, while the upper portion
tant one,
may
be
To
be continued.)
may be either
by means of the
MARK
WICKS.
Irtft^
3>*
glass covering.
The
it,
top
should
fit
to the ceiling
;
when screwed to
if
the joist,
will
rail,
height permit
a second
shelf
might be added, held at either side, and with gay pottery or screen would help furnish the hall, or might run right across the opening itself, as well, if plenty of bric-a-brac is available to place on it. A simple form of bracket of painted wood, in keeping with the other work, is shown in Figs. 16 and 17 (made to take an old Dutch or Minton tile) of skeleton woodwork, all square rods about three-quarter inch section, and pegged or nailed together. I have made them for a hall, and found them very effective, and somewhat uncommon. If the topis screwed through, it will be fot'nd quite strong enough to take a bust or clock; and from the fact of its being painted like the whole woodwork, is less spotty in its effect on the whole than a carved Swiss wood or polished oak
bracket.
is meant the frame work which supports the sound-board and pipes, the key-board, bellows, etc., and as these portions of the instrument
it
is
very necessary
A
is
it
no great ingenuity
this
framework, as
two cross
rails at
longitudinal rails
consists merely of two posts and each end, joined together by two or bars, on which rest two boards.
is
The
a matter
The building-frame
any method of treatment of the screen -and no less to all the other fittings of the hall an absence of fussiness and over-done variety should be carefully insisted on, as the more all the woodwork
In
this applies
is
shown in the sketch is for the organ described in Scheme 1, on page 21, of Part XII., but the general method of construction will be the same for all the schemes I have mentioned, the only alterations being
in
the dimensions.
First prepare the four upright posts of yellow deal
it
or pine, 4 feet 3 inches long, 2} inches, or more, wide, and not less than ij inch thick. If wood or metal
may
if
papyrotile, hand-
painting, or whatever
as the posts,
The cross rails are the same thickness and 6 inches deep, and should be
two points of good decoration give a pleasant impression, a greater quantity of cheap ornament slavishly applied everywhere destroys the whole effect, and
creates a restlessness
tenoned right through the posts, so that, when finished, the outside width of the frames measure 2 feet 2 inches, thus being a little wider than the sound-board. The
top rails are placed so that the top edges of them The top are just level with the top of the posts.
of decoration
(so-called) the
if
reverse of pleasant.
a greater
amount of money or labour is available, it is by no means intended to replace it by the simple substitutes
here given.
pillars
If the screen can be of oak, with round and well-carved capitals, with the panels below, well moulded or carved, and the rest of the structural
edges of the lower rails should be just 14 inches from the ground. On the inside of these lower rails
another
rail,
exactly the
same
size,
and
1^ inch thick,
On
these inner
woodwork throughout the hall of solid wood, well finished, a much more elaborate type of ornament
would be in keeping but the purpose of these papers was, from the first, intended to be less good art or
;
rest
and
if
the bellows, a similar rail 3 or 4 inches wide may be screwed at a distance above the others, equal to the
fashionable
than inexpensive woodwork of the simplest character, that is within the scope of the
art
thickness of the bellows board, thus forming a groove into which that board will just slide without allowing
any upward
play.
But
if
for the
more mechani-
trunk at either end, this upper rail must be omitted, as it would come in the way of such wind-trunk.
AMATEURS,.
boards supporting the key-board
to
if
271
octave
Having made the two end framings exactly similar now be joined together by
5 feet
level of the
be placed
in
any of
is tenoned into edge of it is 2 feet front one is tenoned into the front posts so that its The top edge is 2 feet 3 inches from the ground. distance between the end frames should be 4 feet 9 inches, so that it just allows the middle board of the bellows to slide in between them and rest on the rails screwed on to support it. Xow get out two pieces of deal 5 inches wide, 1 foot \\ inch long and \\ thick, and glue them edgewise on to the top of the front rail
;
and \\ inch thick. The back the back posts so that the top the S inches from the ground
these organs, either single or two-manual, 9 or 10 inches will be sufficient for the height of the underside of the wind-chest
but
less
if
than 15 inches, and for a two-manual this height must be measured above the upper key-board.
In order to give a
quite clear,
to
now
:
in constructing a
1.
The The
should be the
slightly wider.
at each
end, thus
making the
rail
exactly the
same
rail, and leaving an open space in the centre 2 feet 6i- inches wide. Now prepare two boards off inch pine, 1 foot l\ inch wide and about 3 feet 3 inches long, and screw them down on to the front and back rails so that the front edges overhang. On these boards the sides, or cheeks of the key-board will rest, and the keys themselves will have a clear space under them for the necessary action to be placed in connection with the pedals. The ends of these two boards should be left square
from the
under-side of
above the pedals, if any, and the would thus be about 25 inches from
of the bellows should rest on
rails
if
any.
project! about 10 inches from the front of the under case or panelling, and the length of the projection of the boards supporting the
key-board
If
will
until the
is
decided
or
upon,
size
ence of a swell-box.
5.
any shape
an octave coupler
5
may
by
should be
will rest
inches at least
but
if
there
is
no octave
Note.
on the top of the posts and cross rails, and all that will be required to keep it in its place will be two little dowells, or pegs of hard wood, at each end as shown at n in Fig. 55.
The sound-board
be
in
sufficient.
it
This height
renders
may
be reduced
room
really
demands
it,
but
difficult to
These dowells fit into holes in the underside of the wind-chest and cheeks of the sound-board, and the
weight of
it,
especially
firmly.
to
'pipes, will
keep
If
it
down
no pedals are
6. In a two-manual this height should be taken from the top of the upper key-board. Where, however, the room is very low, or, for some other reason, it is required to keep down the height of the instrument as much as possible, the action can
posts of the building frame are to be 3 inches shorter so that the lower rails will only be 1 1 inches instead of 14 inches from the ground.
Fig. 56
be made to pass below the level of the key-board, as shown in Fig. 60. The key-board may in this case be The two or three inches higher from the ground. building frame would be very low, and thus effect a
considerable saving.
must be secured
as the case
to
by screws
may
all
Two
the nicer
make
Where pipes are planted off, they may be supported on a board placed on brackets screwed to the end posts. We must now direct our attention to the manual action, which is the mechanism by which, when a key
is
We
for
and preserve it from damage by damp, etc. must now consider what alterations would be
depressed, the valve or pallet in the wind-chest is opened, and all the pipes
make a building frame suitable any of the other schemes which I have described. For either of the two-manual organs the only difference will be that it must be made 2 inches wider than the total width of the two sound-boards, and about four inches extra height allowed for the posts above the
necessary in order to
over that channel, for which stops are drawn, caused Many are the ways in which this is to sound. accomplished, but we need only concern ourselves
with two of them, namely, the fan-frame action, pure and simple, and the fan-frame modified by the introduction of a few rollers.
1~j1
273
2 74
Fig. 57
on the end of the key-tail is an upright rod of thin wood, termed a sticker, with a wire in each end of ii, the lower wire passing through the key-tail and the
upper one passing through the end of a thin piece of wood termed a backfall. This backfall works on a centre wire, and in a groove cut in a square balk of
now proceed
Take a
piece of
smooth board just long enough to slide in between the posts of the building frame, and wide enough to extend back an inch or two beyond the key tails, while the front edge is an inch or two in front of the line of the
pulldowns of the pallets. Now draw on it the line marked
I
wood termed
end of
it
a backfall
rail,
or bridge,
connected by a tapped wire with the pulldown of the pallet. Thus, when the front of the key is pressed down, the tail of it is raised, and with it the
is
1,
immediately
and mark on
hole,
sticker
backfall.
The
front
end of the backfall consequently descends, and brings with it the tapped wire and the pulldown, and thus opens the pallet. When the pressure on the key is
taken
off,
its
original position.
board, and, as the back ends of the backfalls are immediately over the key-tails, and the front ends are
that, as the
immediately under their respective valves, it follows sound-board is longer than the key-board, the backfalls spread out in the form of a fan, thus A plan giving rise to the term fan-frame action.
showing the radiation of the backfalls is given in Fig. 60. The action of the roller will be better under-
this line the exact position of eveiy such which is really in the centre line of each key. Keeping the board carefully in the same position draw the line 3 3 exactly under the line of the pulldown wires, and mark on it the position of every pulldown. These positions may be marked off on a rod and then transferred to the line on the board. Now join the points on the back line to the points on the front line, and this will give you the exact length of every backfall from the hole where the sticker wire goes through to the hole where the pulldown wire passes through, so you may cut them all about an inch longer. In joining these points do not forget that if the four tenor channels are transferred to the treble end of the sound-board,
13th,
14th,
15th,
stood
if
over the key-tail line and join the 17th point to the 13th
First
make
the stickers,
If
which
square or round.
square they
of good sound pine \ inch thick, either with a saw or a cutting gauge, and finished off with glass-paper, so
that they are rather less than \ inch square.
shown
They
backfall rail
may
and cut up to the required round stickers are required, take a \ inch bead plane and run a bead all along one edge of the \ inch plank, turn the board over and run a bead along the other edge of the same side, as the two quirks will nearly meet the bead will easily crack off, and present the form of a round stick, which will only require finishing off with glass paper to make it
in long pieces If
be made
lengths afterwards.
A a on the plan, Fig. 61. Now take the and make a deep gauge mark all along the centre line of it, and make this mark correspond with the centre line of the backfalls as marked on the board. Lay the backfall rail in this position with the gauge mark downwards on the board, as shown by the two lines on the plan marked 2 2, and mark on
at
both sides of it the position of the backfall lines take the rail up and join these points, and you will then have the centre line of every groove for the backfalls to
work
phos
just
in.
With a
fine
down
When
wide enough
;
in
it
to project i
them
file
67.
chisel,
wood with a \ inch and smooth the sides of the grooves with a flat
take out the intervening
flat
The backfall rail should be next got out, it should be nearly as long as the sound-board, and about i\ or It may be made of oak, mahogany 3 inches square. or pine, but whatever material is used should be sound and dry. The backfalls themselves should be \\ inches
wide and rather "over \ inch thick, mahogany being the best material to use for them. They should be cut to the shape shown in the sketches, and the lengths will depend on the lengths
of the keys
piece of wood.
The backfalls
in the
and fastened down gauge mark on the backfall rail by means of narrow pieces of thin hard wood, or sheet brass being screwed over it with small screws. This plan is better than using staples, which are apt to split the rail, and cannot easily be withdrawn if required.
of the radiation.
In order
The
275
the
rail,
bellows should be hooked ihto a stout leather looped on the staple in a similar way, otherwise the hooks would be apt to slip out on the descent of the feeder, besides being noisy. Or you may use wood connections instead of rope.
The
a
drill,
made
;
with
is,
that
As
The next thing will be the roller board for those channels which are transferred to the treble end of the' sound-board.
necessary for
many
portions
of the actions, it will be convenient to describe it now. And though it may seem rather a difficult and tedious operation to line with cloth a hole less than
^ inch in diameter, it will not be found so in practice. Cut some strips of old woollen cloth a piece of any old garment will do about f- inch wide, and cut into Cut them into a point at one lengths of 1^ inches. end, and pass this point through the hole to be bushed, draw the cloth a little way through, and glue the outside of it and draw that into the hole pass a bradawl or a wire through the cloth to press it well down to the sides of the hole, and when dry, trim off the cloth close to the wood on each side. Having completed the backfalls, the stickers may be put into their places by passing the top and bottom
may be made of \ inch mahogany about 3 6 inches long and 6 inches wide the rollers themselves are of mahogany, and must be thoroughly seasoned. They are made about an inch wide and I or I inch thick, rounded off on the top and bottom
This
feet
;
They work on a centre wire which is driven each end, and passes through a stud tenoned into the board, and these wires should project an inch beyond the studs, to allow them to be drawn out by means of a pair of pliers if it should be required.
edges.
into
The
rollers are
shown
in Figs. 62 to 65.
Fig. 66
which can be expeditiously made in the following manner Cut a piece about if inch wide off the end of a J inch board of mahogany run a rebate along the top and bottom edges to form the tenon, and then round off the front edges. Drill a
studs,
shows the
hole right through, then cut the slip into separate studs about \ inch thick, bush the holes in which the
centre wires of the rollers
may
not rattle
smooth
to
all off
with glass-paper.
We
These
cloths
may be
make
may be
hundred, or if you prefer to make them yourself, you can do so with a % inch hollow punch, and then make a hole in the centre of each for the wire to pass
through.
or wood.
make them
of stout wire
The
cloths
are
shown
in
the
several
tened out at one end, and having a hole drilled in it as shown in Figs. 64 and 65. Bore a hole in the roller slightly smaller than the wire of the arms, and
then drive them into their proper places. The roller arms should project about J.A inch from the roller, and the holes in them must be bushed. There are only four of these rollers, so, if you like, you may make them all the same length and a strip of wood with
;
sketches by the thick line at the top and bottom of each sticker, but are drawn rather larger than the real
size in order to
make them
conspicuous enough.
The
come
so
under the A short length of wire tapped with pulldown wires. a very coarse thread at the lower end, and having a small hook at the top end, is passed through the hole in the end of the backfall and hooked, in the manner which will be described, on to the pulldown of the pallet, and a leather button is screwed on to the tapped wire close up to the underside of the backfall. These leather buttons can be purchased very cheaply, or made by the amateur in the same way as described The hooked end of the wire does not for the cloths. hook on to the pulldown wire itself, but on to a small
directly
them are
four holes in
it
having separate studs. This method, however, would not do where many rollers were required, as it would so greatly increase the weight and bulk of the roller board. In some actions there is a roller for every key. Rollers may also be made of f inch iron gas piping by cutting it to the requisite length and inserting a wood plug in each end to receive the centre
disc or oval of soft leather, as shown in Figs. 70 and 71, and the leather is then hooked on to the pulldown,
and the arms. A hole is drilled through, and arm is then driven through and riveted at the back. These iron rollers and arms should be painted over with Brunswick black to prevent rust. As it is
wires
the
This
is
most
essential, as
more annoying, when playing on the instrument, than to hear grating and rattling of the mechanism. The hooks of the handblower of the
nothing
is
very necessary that the rollers should be placed closetogether and occupy as little space as possible, the
gas piping
not warp.
is
The
276
be obtained by actual.measurement, the left hand arm being immediately over the tail of the key to which it belongs, and the right hand arm immediately under the end of its own backfall. The four transferred backfalls are shown at A A in Fig. 61, and the action of the roller is as follows When the key is pressed down it pushes up a sticker as in the ordinary action, the top wire of the sticker, however, passes through the left hand arm of the roller, instead of through a
:
may
be
used
for
It is,
however, quite
possible
backfall.
The
right
roller is con-
own
backfall by
is
means
pushed
is
than the treble backfalls, so as beneath them, and in this case each backfall in the bass must be separately centred. The action of the organ with the sound-board below the key-board (shown in Fig. 60) is simply a
tracker and backfall action, the pallets being at the
up and the
action.
It
front
is
in the
ordinary
roller
back instead of
description.
at the front,
thus evident
when a
The
backfall rails of
key pressed down. For a two-manual instrument the lower manual is for the great organ and the upper manual for the swell, though the respective positions of the manuals are sometimes reversed. The great organ action is
right or left of the
is
much
better than
manual with a is no wire at the bottom of the sticker, but the stickers rest on a sloping ridge about f inch high, which is made on the top of the key-tail and covered with soft leather.
Fig. 59
for a single
shows an action
sliding key-board.
making them pass through a mortise in those keys, as it then becomes impossible to alter one manual without interfering with the other.
The
stickers
rail,
which
is
The
backfalls of the
and are prevented from falling too low when the key-board is pushed in by having a little piece of wood glued on them. This arrangement
called a register,
keys and should be thinned down where the stickers of the great organ pass between them. The key-tails
of the swell manual should have a disc of leather
when
apartment.
of
In Fig.
59,
is
wood glued on
key-tail.
Sometimes a tapped wire is passed through the ends of the backfalls and key-tails, but this is not
absolutely necessary.
on the In
will
my
ol
The
board pull down from the back, and instead of using a sticker for that purpose as for a thrust or push action, we use what is termed a tracker, which is always adopted where a pull action is required. These
trackers are
GEORGE EDWINSON.
BRONZE, SILVER, ETC,
made
either
round or
flat
if flat
;
they
Ill, SOLDERING COPPER, BRASS,
are about T3S inch thick, and inch wide if round they are about \ inch in diameter, and made with a bead plane the same as stickers. In either case the
NY
alloys of silver
ends are cut pointed and a groove cut in them with a tenon saw. In this groove a tapped wire is placed, with the lower end bent and passed through a hole at the bottom of the groove; a piece of thin twine is then bound tightly round the ends of the trackers to hold the wire firmly, and is afterwards coated with
thin glue.
metals,
may
all
made has
the dis-
advantage of being weaker than the surrounding metal, and also liable to disruption from a temperature a little above the melting-point of the solder. Notwithstanding this unfavourable characteristic
The wires are formed into a hook at the when required to hook on to a pulldown, or other connection. (See Fig. 69.) The backfalls are placed on a backfall rail the same as in the great organ, and the positions of the grooves in it are obtained in the same way as described for that one.
other end
If
many
articles in
daily use
made
to
fit
made
soft
be
When the several parts of an article each other with great nicety, they may soldered together by a process termed " sweat,
ing."
Warm the parts separately and tin the intended contiguous surfaces as the copper-bit was tinned, but
277
made, nor put on more than the merest film of solder. When all have been thus tinned place them together, clamp them up tight, and
grip the joints with a pair of blacksmith's tongs
runs.
made
Or well clean the surfaces to be joined, moisten them with a little "killed spirits," and press them
tinfoil
employ a solder nearly resembling them in and one that will require a comparatively high temperature to melt it. Such solders are named " hard solders," and the process is termed "hard soldering." As these solders will not melt under the heat from a soldering-iron, we must seek a source of heat that will melt them, and this is best obtained from a flame urged by the blast of a common blow-pipe we shall therefore require other
is
to
clamp
The
16,
FIGS I- l5 -BLOW-PIPES
BOSSES BURNER
BLOW
PIPE.
FIGS.
SITION SUPPORT.
FIG. 20. FIG. 19 GRIFFIN'S BLOW-PIPE LAMP. FIG. 18. RUSH TORCH. FIG. 17.-SPIRIT LAMP. LAMP. FIG. 23.-SHIELD FOR MOLTH 21.JEWELLER'S GAS JET. FIG. 22. -FLETCHER'S BLOW-PIPE FIG. 26. -FIRE-BRICK, WITH CAVITY FOR COMPO24, 25. BROKEN KEY, FILED, WITH SLOT AND FANG. FIG. 27. KEY ON COMPOSITION READY FOR BRAZING.
FIG.
or the flame from a blow-pipe, the tinfoil will then melt and unite the parts, making a neat and almost
invisible joint.
may be bought
Or dust a few filings of solder over moistened surface, fit the parts and cleaned the together, and sweep the joint with the blow-pipe flame until the solder is melted. Before attempting
to soft solder copper,
any ironmonger's or tool-maker's shop for 6d. or 8d., and will be a better tool than one made at home. The nozzle of Fig. 16 may be made to screw on and off, and thus will admit of various sizes
at
jets
remember
being used there is no such provision for regulating the jet of air from the nozzle of Fig. 15, so we must be careful to choose one with a small opening if the
;
must be filed or scraped quite clean, tinned by rubbing on them a drop of and then heated
to form the joint
blow-pipe
faults
I
is
like this
form
With all its The proper way to use a come readily to the novice, who is
best.
apt to work far too hard with this tool until he has acquired some proficiency in its use through practice.
278
There
is
jet of air
in learning to blow a steady through a blow-pipe and in learning to play a cornet, for in both cases the learner tries to eject a
make a
This lamp
is
to
and turpentine
it
The
forcible
making
his
such lamps
should be
is
The
secret of success
keep the cheeks filled with a continuous supply of air as a reservoir for the blow-pipe. Very little air is required to produce a steady, powerful jet, less, indeed, than most persons imagine. As the blowpipe has to be held in the mouth firmly gripped by the teeth, leaving both hands at liberty to manipulate the work to be soldered or brazed, it will be best to electro-plate the mouth-piece of the blow-pipe or get it plated with silver, to prevent an unpleasant metallic taste of brass in the mouth of the operator. Another improvement, suggested by the well-known tendency of the tool to slip around whilst it is being used, consists of an oval shield placed around the mouthpiece of the blow-pipe about an inch from its largest end. The form of this shield is shown at Fig. 23 it is made
to
;
and
made to fit the spout to prevent evaporation when the lamp is not in use, and a handle
handiness.
articles
soldered to the back part of the lamp increases its These will suffice for soldering small
mouth blow-pipe to hard must be obtained from a more powerful apparatus than the human lungs, and applied by a specially constructed blow-pipe. Mr.
by the aid
of the
;
Fletcher fixes the limit of weight to be hard soldered by the mouth blow-pipe as three ounces a good workman with strong lungs might also manage to melt a piece of copper of the size of a halfpenny under the blow-pipe flame, but the amateur may be content
;
this.
When
the metal to
be
fused or soldered
made through
It
it
to
fit
heated up on a glowing hot bed of coke or of charcoal, and the blow-pipe blast is merely used to raise it to the last few necessary degrees of temperature, some larger articles and
is
first
then be soldered has been approved by practical blowpipers who say that it forms an excellent support for
it
and
may
heavier weights
stone, or
may be
attempted.
of
pumice
lips.
It
may be
well to
add
all
that th e
cases be
little
under the sixteenth of an inch in diameter, as nothing can be gained by a larger blast.
or
good blow-pipe is that of it. Plumbers and gasfitters use a bunch of dry rushes smeared with tallow and wrapped in a coating of paper (Fig. 18). Some good work is done by the flame from this rude candle in the hands of a skilled workman, and there are many such who use it in preference to any lamp for the purpose that has yet been invented. The flame from a spirit-lamp, such as the one shown at Fig. 17, will do for fine work on very small articles but a stronger flame from a wide wick is required for larger operations with very hard solder. A lamp with a wide wick made to burn a mixture of four volumes of wood-spirit to one volume of turpentine, is shown at Fig. 19, and may be bought for is. or 2s. of J. J. Griffin '& Sons, 22, Garrick Street, London, W. A supply of air and gas consumed in a Bunsen burner
to the choice of a
Next
on a stick of charcoal, whilst being hard Charcoal is considered best for the pursoldered. pose, but any piece of charcoal will not do, for that made from oak and other hard woods will split, crackle, and spit sparks about when it gets hot, and thus disturb the work. Charcoal made from willow is considered best, but I have found an artificial bed of powdered charcoal to be the most effective of all. Finely powdered charcoal for this purpose can be purchased of J. J. Griffin & Sons at 6d. per lb. The method of
is
as follows
Finely pulverise
some
it
dered charcoal in the proportion of one part clay to two parts by bulk of charcoal powder, form this mixture into a stiff" dough with a paste made by boiling a
tablespoonful of rice flour in half-a-pint of
water.
a fire-brick (Fig. 26), or in a lump of pumice stone, or in a " fire-lump " (i.e., one of those lumps of fire-clay sold as a backing for stoves) to
Now
scoop a cavity
in
(Fig. 20) is
with some regard to the form of the work to be brazed. When the matrix has been formed, fill it with the dough, press this down firm, then bed the
joint to
be brazed
in the
shaped as shown, Fig. 21, attached to a swivel, or universal joint at the back of the bench. Mr. Fletcher, of Warrington, recommends a tin lamp made of the form shown (Fig. 22), the spout to be used as a wickholder, and made large enough to take five or six
thicknesses of inch-wide soft cotton wick, side
by side,
and sweep the flame over it gently until it is dry, or remove the article after its impression has been made, and allow the mould to dry in a warm place. Powdered pumice may be mixed with the charcoal instead of fire-clay, but the bed thus prepared is more friable and light than one made from fire-clay and is
it
upon
279
;
Mr. Fletcher
clay
;
5.
silver,
part.
For
brass.
and
6.
7.
steel.
powdered charcoal, but I have not tried this I should not hesitate to do so, however, if the ingredient was ready to hand, for that gentleman is a practical metallurgist whose advice and instructions command attention. Very light work such as chains and pins and other delicate articles requiring nice adjustment and fitting of the fractured parts, may be adjusted and
supported as follows
:
silver, 11 parts.
1
For
part; Fine
silver, 19 parts.
For brass.
8.
Brass,
parts
zinc, 5 parts
fine
silver,
parts.
For brass.
A
iron,
composed of equal
fine silver.
I
wrapping a
the fracture
little
;
soft
sealing-wax or shellac
by around
parts of
have
when this has cooled, make a mixture of and very fine sand, moisten it with water to form a stiff paste, bed the work in this paste on a tile, and, when the paste has set, carefully scrape the paste away from the joint, warm the wax and
plaster of Paris
The amateur
brass or zinc
last,
and when
an ingredient,
should be added
wipe that
off, then apply a paste of borax and prepare the joint for soldering or brazing. Heavy work to be
and plunged into the molten metal with a pair of copper tongs, then cover the surface of the molten metal with a layer of charcoal. One of Fletcher's,
injector furnaces will
for
melting
done by large blow-pipes may be bedded on small lumps of pumice stone or on a mixture of this material and fine coke or charcoal, but this will be considered in detail further on
fine
;
at present,
we
shall con-
should be poured into water over a bunch or broom of twigs, to granulate the alloy, the grains should then
pipe.
in
be selected to
suit
mould
previ-
the work in hand, for one kind of solder may be altogether unsuitable, and another quite suitable to
ously
made
be employed
metals.
tion,
a specified metal or alloy of The principal point to guide us in our selecin uniting
fusibility,
next to that of suitability of colour, is that of and then of affinity with the metal to be
Although I have thus given some I do not advise amateurs to make their own solders, unless they cannot be procured from a tool shop or a metal warehouse. Solders containing silver are termed silver solders those conor long thin strips.
details of the process,
;
soldered.
For
instance,
is
soft brass,
technically
named
spelter
known
used for rough coarse work, such as brazing iron and copper, because it will melt at a much lower temperature fian either of those metals, and unite with them when they are at an almost fusing or welding heat but "spelter " would not serve our purpose as a solder for uniting two
;
as " spelter,"
The Flux, for all hard soldering or brazing operapowdered borax, which is generally applied in the form of a paste made up with water. This paste
tions, is
is
applied to the joint with a small brush or a feather, in the subsequent opera-
we should run the risk of melting the article at the same time that we melted the solder. must, therefore, always choose a solder with a melting point several degrees below that of the metal to be soldered, but at the same time
We
position until
it
has
become
sufficiently
will
remember
by using
broken, and
First
in
file
now suppose the shank of a door key to be we wish to unite the parts by brazing.
a solder which has some affinity for, or some constituent akin to, the metal to be soldered. The
solders for copper, iron,
Figs. 24
the two ends of the fractured parts, as shown and 25, and get them to fit as perfectly as
in
possible, for
on the
fitting will
neatness of the joint, but also its strength therefore do not leave a crack on purpose for the solder to fill
Iron,
and Brass.
Copper, 2 parts
zinc,
;
part.
1
up, but trust to the subsequent treatment to effect that purpose. Some persons would now recommend that
2. 3. 4.
Tough brass,
5 parts
zinc,
1
part.
zinc, zinc,
part.
tin,
dotted
a hole be drilled through the parts, as shown by the line, ana the joint riveted with an iron pin before being brazed
;
6 grains;
For
may be
stuck
strong brass.
away from
the joint,
it
is
and confine
it
there,
or No. 3 solder
to gently
of,
them on a piece of
iron.
at
once
the key.
If a coal-gas flame
strictly
is
must be
unless
I
we wish
to
harden them.
and render the joint unsound and brittle the flame must therefore be made to glance back from the glowing hot support on to the joint, and thus surround it with a bath of reflected
flame.
And
here the
for,
full
must leave the consideration of hard soldering and jewellery, until my next paper, and also some remarks on brazing larger articles by the flame from artificial blowers. To be continued ) (
silver, bronze,
and lends and prevents it from burning too fast, and, at the same time, holds the glowing particles together by the side of the joint. At first, the borax will swell up and rise above the joint like froth, so we must blow gently, and occasionally administer a gentle sweeping puff" to the crest of the seething mass it will then sink down on the iron, carrying the solder with it, and begin to fuse. Now urge the blast a little, and keep increasing it until the joint is bathed in flame spurting up by the sides, and the solder is seen to melt, tremble a little, then sink into the joint. The operation is now complete, and the article must now be allowed to gently cool before it is examined, filed up, and polished. Articles made of copper and of brass should be similarly treated, but the solder from No. 5 to No. 8 will be best for brass, and care must be taken to have all parts of the joint perfectly clean, and fitting proexperienced,
its
SUNLIGET]
agreeing with Mr. Sayer, that
HILST
fully
each amateur
a
pair
may have
his
own way
making
of
etc.,
screws,
ciating the excellent
manner
is
applied.
When
the joints
file
it
will
be found best to
to the joint.
the
and
the
them
Where
admit of
it,
bound
known
as binding wire,
and
also
bound
to the support of
by the same means. Iron wire is selected because of its superior tenacity, infusibility, and softcoal, etc.,
ness.
fused,
Copper and brass wires would be liable to be and would also expand much under the influFIG
9.
MOPE
OF
remember
that
it is
melt to complete the operation, but we must also raise the metal of the joint to a sufficiently high temperature just before the critical point of melting the
solder, for the
may
be of use
to those friends
who
and
bells,
and
trust
Mr. Sayer
must therefore first turn our attention to the heating the joint and only turn the jet of flame upon the solder at the last moment. As most metals (and especially copper) conduct the heat
alloy.
and form an
We
To commence then, instead of simply mounting the switches and screws on a board, I think it is advisable to fit them
rent interference on
part with his work.
my
281
3.0
.1
"CO
o o
r,o"--->
_2'.0ll
-\
.
.
o
o
o
*-1l
o
o
l_D
FIG.
PLAN.
FIG.
:FIG. 14.
'
HATCHING
IN
FRONT.
N 2
hinged
to the
through which the hook, z on which the telephone hangs is to pass, so that the telephone, when not in use, hangs underneath the box. The switch A and the screw D must be carried higher than in Mr. Sayer's diagram, and the bell with magnet, etc., can either be placed in a box on the top of the telephone switch-box, or if the lid of the case be made box-shaped (which I recommend), then the bell, magnet, and armature can be fitted in that, and simply the bell itself fixed outside, on the top of the case, through a hole in which the clapper must pass. Fig. 9, in which I have used the same letters as those in Mr. Sayer's diagram,
hand-cramp, or what-not, however expensive the might be. Lay all the pieces of wood of the same dimensions and use, close together, side by side, and drive into each end of the seta knife-blade. You can then turn your work over to square both sides.
article
This box
is
nary packing-case can be easily adapted. The size will vary for number and sort of fowls, bantams and small kinds requiring less spacious boxes than brahmas.
Take a packing-case
deep, 2
ft.
(the
one
illustrated is 3
ft.
by
ft.
will,
and elevation,
Fig. 12),
VI, NEW USES FOR OLD KNIVES. [From E J. B.] There are one or two very simple, but exceedingly useful tools which no carpenter or cabinet-maker would, and which no amateur should, be without. A few words regarding the manufacture, use, and
care of these
careful
pencil.
from one end put a partition reaching about 8 inches of the back, fixing it by nails Make a hole for hens to go in to front and bottom. at between partition and end, round or square at the
about
I
foot
to within
by 28 inches high
wood
2 or 3 in.
may be
of interest to amateurs.
sets-out his best
is
No
square, or
if
mechanic ever
work with a
all
"setting-out knife"
it
used for
accurate
work, as with
much
finer line
can be obtained,
Bore some holes, B, D, e, i inch diameter round sides and ends to admit light and air. Fix the cover of the case with hinges (butts are best), and put on a lock
and consequently greater nicely than with a pencil. These knives can be bought at most tool-shops but, as many amateurs enjoy making their own tools, whenever possible, I would give them this piece of
;
Now latter keep in your own pocket. once evident that eggs can not be abstracted from the nests, unless a very small boy in case of very large fowls crawls in, as no one has an
will
be
at
advice
Whenever an
it,
comes
secure
and preserve
5
it
as a treasure.
Assuming
ing a blade 4 or
it
into a vice so
may
be broken
off (with
to reach round the partition to get at boxes may be left about any where, These the eggs. and it is astonishing how fond hens are of going to them when once they find them out. A visit once a day to collect eggs is sufficient, and the eggs are safe, and the continual watching to collect them as hens lay, so often necessary, is obviated. Any amateur can
a hammer. Grind this shortened blade to the shape shown in Fig. 10, and finish oft" on an oil-stone. Now, the piece of broken blade which yet remains
should be again broken into pieces ij or 2 inches long. These " bench-knives " are used to hold pieces
of
hammer and
wood
for
upon the bench while being worked. If, example, a piece of stuff is to be beaded or chamfirm
its
often
have
its
simplicity
is its
chief recom-
fered, unless
own weight
itself,
renders
it
stead}',
the
mendation.
hole,
bench-stop
for a
is,
by
to force the
this,
stuff"
sideway pressure has to be exerted, which tends wood away from the tool. To remedy take a ''bench-knife," and having driven the
against the bench-stop, drive the knife into
home
time.
two two pieces the one over the other, but the edge of one projecting i of an inch over the other. Nail them on, on each side of the hole. They will form a groove for
round or square,
and
nail
pieces of
easier
still,
nail
wood and
as in
same
When,
in.
Each
piece
may be
shown and described in Vol. I. of Amateur Work, a number of pieces have to be lined in exactly the same manner and measurements, it is important
Cabinet,
that they should be kept perfectly still during the pro-
f inch thick. the pieces and then cut out the hole, as it is easier to nail them on and makes the end firmer to cut the hole in. To form roof, cut two pieces off in. or 1 in.
better to
mark
board
in the
form
B,
just to
fit
183
a J inch
in about
inch in
size.
tap in the centre of each length, and f inch from one edge, they are then screwed on the outside edges of
base.
1
across these ends overlapping, or if weather-boarding can be had, so much the better, or if you have a spare piece of felt it can be nailed on to the boards, which in this case, need not overlap. The boards should project at each end over B (Figs. 13, 14), to keep out wet. The roof lifts off, as shown, so that a hen, with eggs or chickens, can be inspected at any time. The space between the roof and edge of chest, when roof is on, admits air. You must have a piece of wood to slide up and down (shown in dotted lines) in the piece nailed on side of the hole, so as to shut the hen in when you wish also at night. Now get some
;
inch
Next come the two blocks, D, D, 4 inches by by 1 inch, with a i inch hole bored to the depth
are to be S inches length of thread
The screws
a 3-inch handle.
Any
for
turner will
in the
make
the screws,
It
them
made
entirely of beech.
will find
cramp decidedly
X, CARPENTER'S BENCH FOR AMATEURS, [from AN AMATEUR.} The accompanying illustration (Fig. 16), gives
laths
and
construct
cage,
(Fig. 14),
to place
in front of the door, and the apparatus is complete. Given, any old box, any old pieces of chests, a few laths
(sawn are the best), a few nails, hammer, and saw, and a coop may be constructed by a non-professional. The hen is put on the eggs, and is generally shut
in at night
which I made for my own use a few years ago. It is drawn to scale as near as I could do so with a rule and pencil. I think it is sufficiently clear to be understood.
It is
and
2 feet 7
inches high.
The
is
and the
by
letting
down
In the
a 3-inch plank,
is
1 1
inches wide.
lift
morning, place food and water in the outer cage and up the slide you may go to your daily avocation knowing that she will take care of herself, and cannot get out, and will return to her eggs unmolested by other hens. When the chicks are hatched, they live with the hen in the same coop, and will stick to it
;
The wooden
wide,
planing-vice
and about 2J inches thick. At the other end of the bench are four drawers 10 inches wide. The top drawer is divided into 6 compartments, for nails screws, and small articles. The board, with 7 holes, slides between the screw and the drawers. For planing
longer boards, another piece of wood, with 4 holes, is fastened to the leg on the other side of the drawers.
when she
but
is
if you let
them,
if not,
is well to shift
previously lime-whited inside, can be used again. It the box every other day or so, to give the hen the benefit of fresh ground by doing this at
;
The drawers go
in
may
be out of the
way when
no trouble
is
en-
At A
is
fixed a small
and
all is
When
way
I first
made
is
clamp.
piece of
out-of-the-
There are 3 holes in the plank for an iron Near the screw end of the bench is a square ash about a foot long and i.J inches square.
my plan
as
IX, CRAMP FOR PICTURE FRAMES, [From A PRO.] Seeing you have started some articles on pictureframe making, reminds me of a very handy appliance I made some time ago, for the purpose of holding the frame while nailing, or otherwise securing the mitres
;
fits tight,
This goes through the plank at a slight inclination, and can be hammered up or down, according to the thickness of the
wood planed
against
it.
hope to add a German screw to the right hand end of the plank, and then, I think, it will be complete.
of which I send a rough drawing. It will take any width up to 3 inches, which is, I suppose, large enough for most amateurs. The base consists of two pieces of beech 1 foot 6 inches long and 7 inches by ij inches in width and thickness, halved and screwed together in the shape of a right angle, as shown by A. Two
strips,
E now come
by 2 inches by J inch, are mitred and screwed on the base, they must be exactly square, and parallel with the outside edges of
B, B,
marked
11 inches
As
for
identical,
it
will
only
be necessary
base.
The hub
strips, C, C, are
is
is
The two
9 inches by 3 inches by
shown
in section, Fig.
It
is
3 inches long,
and
284
2J inches
in
AND
USE.
finch
which
lathe,
twist-drill,
and
on
on
The
body,
centre,
or
is
I
connecting
inch thick.
is
fixed
The
Fig.
In
the
hub
is
shown
;
and
the outside.
is
not done
inch
thick,
which which
in the casting,
but in the
washer,
of boring
through for
it
inch thick.
1
is
In Fig.
is
a lubricator
shown
in the centre,
it is
The purpose
recession
first, it
is
of the
bored,
put
twofold
and the
up.
lubricator fitted
is
holes
be
bored
through, thereby
makSe-
So much
now
The
two
forks are
made
in
recession
which
is
fitted
to
the
pin,
thickness
of
the
and
the
is
wrought iron. One side of a fork is shown, Fig. 3. At the upper end it is 1 inch broad
.
and i inch
thick, taper-
dovetailed, as
shown
in
meaor
keep dust
is
tom
is
inch
in dia*
mud
inch
This hub
what may
plain
be called
or
which
it
dia-
inches
receive
These
screws,
the
steel,
The
for
the set
which
ends of
s-inch
hold
connecting
One end
The
the
fork
end,
which
pin
is
has
square
it.
inches, or sufficient to
hole to receive
The
shown
in Fig. 2.
The
hub
is
pattern
for this
__
FIG.
5.
The
made
flush
or
it
may draw
casting.
is
easily in the
The
casting
shown
3, C.
in
section of the
two
AND
holes,
to the
drill,
USE.
the lower end
is
28S
coned
is
shown, Fig.
4.
In
same angle
a
as the boring
re-
these are
cessed to
receive
similar angle
to
screw.
fit
This
in the
The
at
sockets
them1
piece
is
made
a good
inch
Before bra-
diameter
ends,
zing,
a
is
small
drilled
the
and
the
is
15 inch in
centre,
through, and a
wire
driven
it,
which
pin,
C,
somewhat
shaped.
ball-
They
up
are
to
through prevent
position
are finished
in the lathe,
then
inch
the
for
ends
in the
tube in
of
drilled
the
process
screwing,
in
heating and
brazing.
and
a
is
the centre
of both sockets
I
-
Now,
are
as two
inch
hole
oftheseT-pieces
required,
in
drilled
;
half
through
the re-
one
each end
must
to
screw,
in
as
sec-
shown
tion, Fig. 4.
be taken that they are both placed in the plane same that is, that they may both stand
in
vertical
position
when
two
hole
FIG.
8.
^
STEERING GEAR
fig. 7.
in the finishing
through
it
machine, otherwise
the
steering wheels
for
turning
with
It
round
a
is
TURNING TO
RIGHT.
Scale, one-fifth
full size.
tommy.
:teek1ng gear
RUNNING
Si
right
angles
RAIGHT.
one-fifth
ScaK
lull bize.
The time
drilling
to see to this is
II
when
the steeris
before
ing neck
pro-
perly adjusted.
A
neck
section
is
of
the
steering
5.
Any
shown
in Fig.
It is
made
in the
form of a
the
part A, 3 inches long, is made of a thickness to fit inside of the tube forming the backbone,
maybe brazed
is
in while
FORK
the tube
straight.
The
setting
N.B.
The
in the socket-
B, E.
286
Fig. 6
put together
with
shows the various parts herein described namely, the two sockets, with the steering neck, the fork sides fixed in place, and the hub,
;
made
is
before the
full
turning
its
Now as
short
means
two wheels with their forks. The parts are two arms projecting from the fork sides, two steering rods of a inch round wire, two ratchet pieces, and a spade handle with a small pinion on its shaft. It is to be noted that the two wheels are turned in opposite directions one in, the other out, so that in turning the machine the two wheels are always running in the same circle, and consequently making but one track. To effect this, the makers of the Coventry Rotary Tricycle put a short arm on the inside of one fork and a similar arm on the outside of the other, and connect the two by a long steering rod. This rod has a part of it opposite the small pinion on the spade handle flattened out, and teeth cut on its edge to engage with the small pinion. This is a very simple arrangement, but looks rather awkward to have a long rod running at an angle with the long side tube, on
twist. This operation is extremely awkward on a rear-steerer when a sharp turn has to be taken, and I have seen learners com-
go,
pletely at a loss
how
to turn their
machine on the straight until they looked round to see the position of their back wheel. In my machine the pinion is 2^ inches in diameter.
full
turning
in
your machine
for
go
in
when steering, which is more than can be said of a good many tricycles, especially after they have become somewhat loose in the parts with wear. Our steering handle, with its connections and their
attachment to the frame, cannot be described with advantage without the use of diagrams, and as the
present article threatens to be overcrowded with these
already,
and on the outside the other besides, the short arm on the outside of the fork really makes the machine some three inches
it
the inside of
;
we must
and con-
wider.
(To be continued.)
machine was so fitted at first, but I made an alteration which I think is an improvement. I placed the short arms on the inside of both forks
then, in place of a continuous rod,
I
My
one from the front fork to engaging with the inside of the small pinion, and the rod with its ratchet coming from the hind wheel and engaging with the outside of the pinion. The two wheels are turned just the same as in the former method, but it is a much more mechanical-looking arrangement besides, the short arms being inside in both cases are more out of the way, and the machine will now enter a much narrower doorway. The above arrangement will be clearly seen in the diagram, Fig. 7, wherein the dotted line shows the direction of the steering spade handle when the machine is running straight ahead. In Fig. 8 the handle has received a quarter of a turn the front wheel is now turned to the right, while the hind wheel has been turned in a corresponding degree to the left. The machine is now running in a circle of 7 or 8 feet, the steering wheels being inside and both running in one circle. Turning the handle back to the position of Fig. 7 brings the wheels in line, and the machine consequently runs straight forward turning the handle in the opposite direction from Fig. 8 turns the machine
;
ERY
bed
to
form of a
fleur-de-lys
was sent
that
that
will
I
me by a
As
he be
some
to
to cut
new
flower-beds of
;
same degree.
the steering pinion on the handle
and, thirdly,
In
s
many tricycles
show many
of
my
correspondents
how
difficult
absurdly small, so
much
so that a
full
revolution of
it is
'287
any
line
D E
at right angles to
b,
and measure
scale,
off
along
specially
the line
E,
F,
and c
The
meet the want. In Fig. 1 I have given what I conceive to be a good example of the fleur-de-lys, as used either as a heraldic emblem or charge, or for decoration of an ecclesiastical character. I have done this to show how unsuitable is the fleur-de-lys in its ordinary form for any other than the purposes just mentioned, and especially for a flower-bed, unless it were carried out on a very large scale so large, indeed, that it would
not be possible for the eye to gather in at a glance the outline of the bed itself, much less its various details
shown on a scale of J inch to a foot the size of the bed, however, may be regulated at pleasure by changing the scale for example, if the scale of the bed be taken at \ inch to a foot, then c F and C H will be each equal to \\ feet, and the actual size of the bed when cut will be just one-half of what it would be if carried out on a
figure is constructed
on a large
;
and
is
and H, at a distance of 2i feet from the point and therefore at a distance of 5 feet from each
when
this
fully
stocked with
all
other.
If
am
asked
to explain
why
the arc
would be so, I need only point to the narrowspaces that intervene between the central member of the fleur-de-lys and those at the sides, both above and
below the transverse bar that crosses and breaks the continuity of the three parts and say that it would be impossible unless these spaces were at least 18 inches wide at the narrowest part and for all practical purposes 3 feet would be better to utilise them
;
F,
From the point F, with the radius F H, describe K H L, and from the point H, with the radius describe the arc K F l. These arcs give the outupper end of the central lobe of the
fleur-
line of the
de-lys.
and and have a piece of garden-line with a ring at one end that may be slipped over each stake in turn, and a pointed iron at the other, round which the free end of the line may be wound until the required length of
To
H,
radius
is
obtained.
off
as a
means of obtaining access to the interior of the bed, and at the same time to keep the turf of which they are composed in proper condition, and the verge or edge of the bed cleanly cut and well kept. How, then, is the difficulty to be got over ? Simply
by conventional treatment of the form that is desired is to say, by effecting such changes in its general outline that, while they do not in any way
foot,
if taken at ^ inch to a foot, and from C as centre, with the radius C M, describe the arc N M O. From the point M set off along A B, and
= 7 feet or = 3A feet
B,
if
towards
shall
P,
that
foot (I
from
any
my
readers can
destroy
its
wise, from
which
it
is
taken, render
it
better adapted,
it is
and more
to
serve.
which
intended
Whether
or
not
this
was
felt
is
by the
a reduced
copy disposed symmetrically, I cannot say; but be this as it may, it is clear that, for the reasons above stated,
the sketch
is
and through Q draw the A B. Along this line, in oppoite directions from Q set off Q S and Q T, each equal to 6h feet, and from K draw the straight These lines K s and K T, through the points S and T. lines cut the arc N M O in the points u and v, at which, as also at the points P and R, stakes should be driven
work
straight line S
at right angles to
far
more
in.
From
Ux
equal to 3^
V,
B'.
in fact, this
form
feet,
x y
conventionally treated for the special requirement in view. I will now proceed to show how this design
In these
we
may be drawn
by
in the deter-
the figure, whose extent will be determined presently. Through the points P and E, now set off the straight
lines E' F'
and
g' h',
each
at right angles to
outline
is
Referring
now
to Fig. 3,
it
is
first
means of
down a which the bed itself will be symmetrically disposed. This central line is represented in the figure by the straight line A B. In this straight line, at a suitable distance from the end A, select a point C, and through c draw the straight
stakes, to lay
from Q, set Then, from c' as centre, with radius c u, describe the arc w k' l' m', cutting e' f' and G' h' in K' and l', and from d' as centre, with radius d' v, describe the arc z n' o' p', cutting E' F' and G' h' in N' and O'. In the arcs w K' and z n' we obtain the lower arcs of the side lobes of the figure, and the arcs U M' and o' P' of the extremity of the figure below the transequal to 6
feet.
verse bar.
288
off P
E'
and P
f'
in
D
F
doing
ever
is
this
shown
and
this
may
each equal to 3^ feet, and R G' and R h', each equal to i\ feet, along the straight line
straight line e'
f',
Cl,
The
first
thing to be done
is
to cut
from K, and also in opposite directions from this point. Join e'
G' h'
g',
f'
h',
the fleur-de-lys
completed.
Then
K
Z
3 or 4 feet in length, about 3 inches broad, and J inch thick, as represented by B c, D E in the figure.
from
feet,
n',
with a radius equal to 4^ describe the arc m' q', and from
K',
These
H
pieces,
when
accurately halved
with the
p'
same
radius, describe
p'
the arc
r'.
Lastly, from
as a
FIG.
arms are
another.
at
right
angles
to
one
of the
S',
same
The lower
all
each
slip
from end to
itself
that
is left
be done
is
to
its
edges.
and the
slip,
This
is
of each
white,
and
A bore
I
the
circle
inch in diameter.
straight line has
Now
wxy in
u',
T'
KFL
in
when a
and the
line
py'
touching the circumference of the circle z A' b' in w' and the
arc
Fig.
3,
it
is
manifest that
KHL
is
in x'.
By
the addi-
when
is passed under this line, that is to say the garden line, the line itself
the
cross
now completed
is
in
will lie
line,
exhibited
D E,
is
if
D e be
TRUE
in the
placed
beneath
HERALDIC
FLEUR-DE-LYS.
that
is
at
and A
TREATMENT.
line
is
and
lines.
point C in Fig.
and another
laid
along and
will
The
down
be
B.
And
provided
and copied in Fig. 2, and its outline has been geometrically traced as requested. If space
originally sent,
arms of the
bdce, may
be immediately
permitted, a
handsome
cross
might be formed of
s'
each
It
to the distance of
about three
possible that
professionals
many
as
well
gar-
deners,
as
270
amateurs,
in setting
may find
little difficulty
and quickly traced by putting in stakes in the ground, one in each notch at the ends of the arms, and laying down lines from stake to stake. Or if marks be set between a and b, and a and C, at equal distances from A, as at L and 11, a diamond may be formed by laying down the lines dl, d m, EM, el; and, by turning the cross
so
that
the
white
line,
E,
is
more
E, e'
f',
s T,
and
g' h' at
another
star,
FIG. 5.
square,
right
AB
in Fig.
contrivance for
e,
d,g,c, h,
2S9
travers-
forming the
ring,
it
by wires
found
ring,
This
will
ing the central space from the points marked o and 180; and go and 270. These wires are not shown in the
illustration.
The circumference
of a circle,
it is
almost needless
to say,
is
circles. It
di-
by
arcs
of
wood
80
degrees,
and a quadrant
into
f
1 t
board inch
90
de-
grees.
The
dein
l\
in
double
so that
in
V.
d
'
/
J
If
!C
\
\H.|
/Y
E
number of
grees
an
circle,
the
joints
the
of
any
poly-
regular
/x
/o
of
the
jr^
/^v
w/
^\
A'
^*N
gon,
is
obtain-
ed by dividing
360
pieces forming
by
in
;
the o
the-
the circle
low,
be-
number
\
sides
/
"w
polygon
thus
/"^Sv
'
whole
together
firmly
to
solid
Y; \
SyV\
zf
tended by the
-'
/
\
form a
in
/
F
side
of
an
tri-
ring of f inch
thickness.
\
,s
equilateral
/
/"-
"
e'
V jp
jQ
NXi
i
y
di t'\
angle
is
obdi-
jc
by
which gives
If then
IE
;R
oT~
\
\^
120.
be found a
ficient
suf-
stakes
be
in-
radius,
2 feet to
and from
4 inches
feet
\
,.-'''
/
R'f~~~""
placed
at
M^
6 inches
outer
W"
\
tervals of 120
^P''~v^_
degrees round
the
inner
or
outer edge of
FIG. 3.
of the
edge.
The
the protractor,
and
lines
straight
surface of the
ring should be
traced
painted black,
3
1
ID
lateral triangle
on
at
it,
SCALE, /i.lNCH' TO
FOOT
will
be formed,
one
at
the
as
shown by
distance of
the
1 inch within the outer edge, and the other same distance within the inner edge. The inner zone thus formed, and the central zone also, may
the dotted lines traced in the interior of the figure. Similarly as an angle of 60 degrees is subtended
by the side
of
regular
hexagon,
or
six-sided
be divided into spaces of 10 degrees, but the outer zone should be perfectly graduated in spaces of 1 degree, as shown in the figure. It will be useful to
indicate the
common
be obtained by setting stakes round the protractor at intervals of 60 degrees, and drawing lines from stake to stake, as also shown in the Larger figures may be obtained by interior of Fig. 5.
figure, this figure
may
290
laying out lines
is
a fact well
marks of
and taking points in the lines thus obtained, equi-distant from the centre from which to lay down lines to form the boundary
division to
extent,
any
insoluble in water.
It
and consequently,
it,
For the convenience of those who are not able to read a plan by scale, I will conclude by giving the proportions of the various measurements above mentioned in terms of scales of \ inch, I inch, and J inch
to the foot, which,
lys,
if
the lines
will not
be affected
by water, providing
light for
about an hour.
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
SCALE.
MEASUREMENTS.
i in.
HO
to
foot.
does not
know what
a nuisance
it is
to
have
I in. to foot.
i in.
to
foot.
CM.
QS
= QT
Radius u x
=v
a'
qc'
= qd'
=-=PF'
PE
= RG'=RH
.
'
Radius c' u d' v Radius of arcs, m'q', p' r from centres K', N' Radius of arcs, q' s', r' e from centres P', m'
e' g'
= = = = = = = x= =
)
2i
5
feet
.,
if feet
i feet
necessary in the
way of
7
1
61 3i 6 34 4
21 34 ,.
6 inch
Sifeet
of the exasperating
implement.
am
may
free themselves
from
this source of
2s.
annoyance by send-
l*
3
t3.
..
3d. to Mr.
Edward Smith,
3,
who
will
2I
New
Scissor Sharpener
\ ' 1
4i
b
3* 33
,,
f"
,,
21
1
f"
h'
il
,,
which will, as he truly says, put a better edge on a pair of scissors in ten seconds than a grinder will in ten minutes, and will not wear them away or destroy them. I have just tested the Sharpener on an old pair of editorial
In which forms a bed for a broad file, which may be moved by means of a screw and spring below, so as to bring any part of it immediately below the rest, which forms part of the frame at one end, and against which the blades of the scissors are
scissors,
testify that
it
I trust
and can
does
is
its
work
to perfection.
and helpful to many of my readers, both professional and amateurs, in designing and tracing the outline of
flower-beds on geometrical principles.
little
brass stand,
The
process
indeed,
is to
is
all
that has to
be
done,
rest,
hold the
to
draw the edge, which rests on the file, Mr. Smith can show many specialties for various purposes, and no one who comes from the country on a visit to London, and finds himself close to
and then
file
across the
several times.
visit to
once dissolved.
In
all
General Post Office, should fail to pay a " The City Toy Shop," whether for toys, cutlery, pens, decorations for various times and seasons, or to have
St. Paul's, or the
probability
the colour
is first
the
21,
be the same.
added
to
it.
Glycerine
for dissolving
" the
aniline colours
water by
solution,
is
dissolving
them
in
which
until
is
added
is
to this
It
thickness.
stirred
an
is
coloured
paste
obtained.
little
and varied stock of American-made tools, a sup" The American Challenge" Cameras and Outfits for amateur photographers, manufactured by William H. Walker and Co., Rochester, New York, U.S. The Camera is supplied in three sizes, namely, to take a plate 3iin. by 4} in., l 7s. 6d.; 4 in. by 5 in., 4, 10s. and 5 in. by Sin., 6 15s., or with chemical outfit for negatives, and outfit for printing and toning, 4 8s., 5 15s., and S 12s. respectively. There
their large
ply of
Then
time.
the mixture
many
How much
this will
we do
not know,
and cameras, which may be purchased and used with advantage, but a price list of these will be found in a handy
little
it,
NOTES ON NO VELTIES.
and which, I presume, is sent to anyone who is desirous of obtaining full and complete information on the subject. Walker's " Pocket Camera," complete with all necessary accessories, including among many others, which are too numerous to mention here at length, an achromatic lens with two diaphragms, a patent tripod head, dry plate holder, light-tight box for storing negatives, and ruby lamp for use in developing negatives, chemicals and appliances for developing ico negatives, and finishing 500 to 1,000 photographs, is supplied for ^3 10s. Its weight is 10 lbs., and it furnishes a
complete photographic
It is difficult to
outfit, replete
291
so.
:
The
testi-
favour
it
one gentle-
man who
painted a very
damp room
with
and which could not be used on account of its extreme dampness, has found it an effective and permanent cure. The paint is of a rich chocolate colour, and has a great body. It contains a great quantity of iron, which forms a thin superficial coating to the wall, gradually becoming harder and harder as the oil is absorbed, and which will not flake or fall
off.
with
all
accessories that
use, for
The dark appearance of the paint is no hindrance to its when it is dry it can be painted over with any colour
American "Challenge" whole of the eight-page pamphlet that I have spoken of, to these pages bodily, but it may be useful to point out that it is accompanied by a rigid tripod of three jointed and folded legs, fitted with a tripod head admitting of the ready adjustment of the camera in the horizontal or vertical planes without the The camera box necessity of moving the legs of the tripod. is made of cherry wood, beautifully polished, and measuring its only two inches in thickness when closed over the bed fittings are nickel plated and burnished, the tripod head and bed being of cast-iron nicely japanned. The pamphlet to which I have already referred contains definitions of the eleven requisites which every camera should possess. These apply to the tripod and tripod head, camera box, platedescribe the
that
may be
preferred.
Any
wall,
whether internal or
it is
transferring the
external, should
recommended
that in all
rooms
be papered, even
if
one coat of
as
it
this paint
Messrs. Crosby
7, Stationers'
Hall
me
A
by
Rudimentary Treatise
Sir
Edmund
Beckett,
LL.D., Q.C., F.R.A.S., President of the British Horological Institute, and author of "Astronomy Without
The book, which forms No. 67 of Weale's Rudimentary Treatises, measures 7a i n by 4 m an(^ con " tains 400 pages, with numerous diagram and illustrations.
Mathematics."
>
In the preface to
this,
and diaphragm.
The makers
speaking of that portion of it which relates to clocks, the author says, " It should be understood that this professes to
well-known
ruling principles, and that adjustments based on these principles are not absolutely necessary in a photographic camera.
and
so
much
practical
knowledge
be useful both
to
They
further challenge
anyone
name
of the camera
make, or
character
direct the
;
making
of, their
own
clocks of superior
it
emto
and
has
been useful
in that
the English-
little
name of "The Amateur Photographer," which contains much interesting matter, and also discharges the functions of a price list of the "Pocket Camera" and its accessories,
contains as a frontispiece an exquisite photograph
of a
Such a book as this requires to be carefully studied, with thought and deliberation, and not cursorily run over, like
the pages of a three-volume novel.
is
The name
of the author
own
it
charming
woodland scenery, said to have been taken in a vacation ramble with Walker's " Pocket Camera" by a
bit of It is I
quod non ornavit. To this I may add, from my own very slight knowledge of the subject and acquaintance with the book, that I am sure it would be most
may be
seldom,
falls to
the
useful to
me
if I
Were
it
am
from home
who
will
amateurs
whose fancy
The
grievance,
Britannia
Company,
Colchester,
who
are tool
makers
Damp
common
indeed, so
by appointment
to the British
in brick-built houses,
is
and so
it
intolerable, that
any
among
made
at their
works, lathes,
preparation that
likely to prevent
I
and cure
it
deserves
slide-rests,
and chucks of
all
workmen
careful consideration.
Cannon Street, and I, maker of Pulford's " Magnetic Paints," has produced a paint for coating damp walls, known as the Iron Damp Wall Paint, sold at 46s. percwt., or in 7 lb., 141b., and
7%
lb.
making and
fret-cutting, bicycles,
certainly foremost
among
provide for
machinery that
and for amateurs in particular, tools and combine in a most desirable manner the quali-
292
ties
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
of cheapness, excellence of construction, and thorough
mentioned.
rather
cannot,
unfortunately,
give
the
price,
or
efficiency.
The
last
achievement in
was a
the
prices,
is
this
motion, which
now
Company
having no
offered at so
try his
hand
at
low a price that no amateur, who wishes to turning, need be without one, and to this (hey
For these
to
particulars,
I
must
refer
my
readers
I
the
Company
who,
am
motion
size,
lathes
of
any
of
for
answer
all
inquiries,
illustrations
which
my
and
2.
The
little
jeweller's
it
made
in
this
specialty the
commonly by
We have
us, I
all
of
chucks so called,
in
being
should say,
little
made
iron,
gas
our
troubles with
material
that
is
manuthis
is
of
chucks
of
and
irregularity of pressure
description.
This chuck
own
particularly valuable to
teurs,
amaaid
because,
by
its
watch
to
accommodate
many
holds
diverse operations
for
it
may
a
be performed,
drills
not only
and
carries
shown
carries
Fig.
2,
but also
leather
polishing brushes,
Governor,"
tented,
pa-
may be brought
by amateurs
various
lor
and manufactured by Messrs. Henry Greene and Son, Gas Engineers, 153 and
polishing
articles
The
only
price
Cannon Street, E.C. "Coal gas," these gentlemen point out, " as supplied
155,
handy addition
is
to the
7s.
is
an
amateur's lathe
6d.
considerably
ordinary lathe
and
dered suitable
tice of
the pracis
ornamental turning
in
shown
shafts,
Fig.
1.
Two
however, to
this pro-
slightly
tor, are
one
at
either
is
MANUFACTURED BY
due
but
it is
These uprights
transverse
bars,
of nearly
all
the waste of
carry two
on the upper and nearer of which two grooved wheels are placed, one of which is set in motion by a cord that passes round it and the driving wheel below. When this wheel
is set in
burners
adequate supply at
burning
upper shaft
and by means of another cord imparts motion to a little wheel acting on part of the machinery below on the lathe itself, a pulley and bar, with
carried round
;
much
in excess of
It is
what
is
burners.
lighting or
been
JS/OTES
ON NOVELTIES.
surrounding liquid, raising the
the valve E, to which
it is
293
float C,
and
partially closing
which
it
burner
adopted the pressure remains the same and, further, it is a matter very important that the service pipes (of the house or
building) and their connections are sufficiently large to allow
attached, as the gas coming in at an increased velocity requires a smaller opening to pass the
requisite quantity
;
when a
an adequate supply of gas to /ass freely No greater mistake can be made in supplying a building with gas than to use
pipes so small that sufficient can only be
at
a law pressure.
and the valve opens wider, because the gas, entering at a lower velocity, requires a
place, the action
is
reversed,
It will
meets
in so
this
the
far
essential as
it
property of
elastic
fluid,
gas,
obtained
when
the gas
is
rushing out at a
is
an
and
Son
SOLID STEEL JEWELLER
S
used
as
district
CHUCK.
adapted for
governors
in
by
the
size
gas companies as
the
smaller
It
due regard
an
is
elastic fluid,
domestic purposes. It will, moreover, be observed from the diagram that the only moving part is the combined float and valve, which simply floats it is, there;
fore,
stant variation
number
upon the premises, or even near to the premises. This can be illustrated by taking an ordinary oil lamp, with two
burners of equal size fixed to the reservoir, both being alight
of any leather, india-rubber, or membrane diaphragm obviates the friction and irregular action attendant upon the use of these makeshifts, and, its action being
entirely according to natural laws,
it
The absence
is
free
from
all
the
The
result, then,
is
of
one of the burners be turned out, the consumption of oil is reduced by one half, because the wicks are fed by capillary attraction only, the fluid being practically non-elastic ; but
if
this,
that
if
one of two
gas-lights
whether few or many burners are in use, they burn with an unvarying pressure, conducing to the saving to the consumer of from 15 to 40 per cent., with a softer and better light, and an immensely improved condition of the atmosphere in the
apartment where the gas
is
one
half,
elastic, will
burnt, the
economy
first
effected
and, curiously
outlay for
than
the Governor."
did
before,
heat,
and, by reason
show the
necessity of such an
is
Messrs.
Henry
now under
state-
and no reasons more thoroughly practical and convincing could be urged in favour of its immediate adoption by
in
all
the
and reducing
followed.
is
The Hydrostatic
fixed
mum
prices
Gas Governor
on the
outlet
The
A and
and
of the
inlet
which
FIG.
amount
ratus
is
of
light
is
Hydrostatic Gas Governor are by no means high, and the cost of one will be saved, I am inclined to think, by
the reduction the
first
of
the
its
gas
bill
in
year after
12s.
;
adoption.
lights,
The
adjusted, there
appa-
cost
is for
three lights,
for
five
so sensitive that
16s.
and so on up
to
^10
for
one hundred
adjusted pressure
the following
instantly
:
manner
When
is
and
fifty lights.
The
takes place,
its
influence
posing the Governor between the meter and the supply pipe that carries the gas to the burners are included in the above
terms.
(a liquid
freeze
Persons
may determine
is
is
Governor they
lights their
will require
to
be driven
meter
intended to supply.
294
AMATEURS IN
IN COUNCIL.
COUNCIL.
Maxwell, W. 1. The paper pipes may be made to sound exactly like metal. If your Open Diapason sounds too fluty, cut the top lip a little thinner at the edge. 2. There should be no hissing. See that there is no roughness where the wind passes at the mouth, and that the sides of the mouth are trimmed off quite level with the ears. 3. India-rubber tubing will do for conductors, but you will find it come very expensive. Why not use paper f You could make the bends with a short length of rubber tubing, if that is your difficulty. 5. I do not quite understand your meaning in this question. W. W. (Brighton). The Bourdon does not stand on the manual Bound-board, but on a separate sound-board or sound-boards of its own, as will be described in due course so if you do not require the Bourdon you have simply to omit it. The width of the slider aud bearer of the Keraulophon stop may be deducted from the total width of the manual sound-board if you do not intend having that stop. The three inches at the top of the scale in Part XIII. is a misprint. It should be 2 J inch as stated in the article. To J. E. K. The pine required to carry out Scheme 1. excluding the swell-box, case ( and pipes would be about as under : | inch ... 50 feet ^
;
AMATEURS
fThe Editor reserves to himself the right of refusing a reply to any question that may be frivolous or inappropriate, or devoid of general interest. Correspondents are requested to bear in mind that their queries will be answered only in the pages of The Magazine, ihe information sought being supplied for the heneflt of its readers generally as well as for those who have a special interestin obtaining In no case can any reply be sent by post.] It.
Organ Building.
X. T. Z. 1. You may get over your difficulty by retaining the board on top of the wind-chest, which is referred to aa being used to test the soundness of the bellows and reservoir, merely cutting a hole in it to allow the wind to pass to the reeds. 2. The two boards at the back of the harmonium are no particular width, aud the space between them may be filled in with a
piece of glazed calico.
3. You may add a base board at the back, or let the foundation board in flash with the bottom of the ends, which you like. 4. I don't think cartridge paper would answer as well as veneer. 5. Two skins will be sufficient.
T. J. (Pontypridd). All the Bubjects you mention will be dealt with in dae course. The husky sound of your old wood pipes may be caused by dust, the joints opening, or by imperfect fitting of the stoppers. H. W. (Chester). You have misread the passage you mention. It is only the caps of the Keraulophon stop that are to have the holes bored in them. Any of the organs described could be blown by the feet if the pedals were not used. Diapason. There is no objection to makiug the pipes in the manner you mention, but the tone would be of different quality to those made as I have directed. J. B. (TyneDoclc). 1. You can utiliseyour paper pipes as a flageolet instead of a flute by discarding the twelve largest and makiDg an extra octave to continue the treble to
top G.
2.
You
C. J. C. (Haverstoclc Hill).1. It is very easy to cut the mouths of the pipes higher The tool after the pipes are put together. generally used is a sharp pen-knife, with which an extremely thin slice is taken off the edge of thw upper lip. But I prefer to use the small glass-paper files which I described in Part XII. The edges of the lips should run thicker the higher the mouth is cut, and as the lips are already chamfered, all that is
stop by 'placing the 4-foot pipe on the Tenor C channel, and so on all through. 3. There is always a tendenry to make the treble pipes sound too loud. This can be rectified by slightly closing in the hole at the foot. The large pipes should be thicker than the smaller ones. I use six thicknesses for a 4-foot pipe.
4.
Your
specification will
do
nicely,
but
the Bourdon would be better if carried to two octaves (25 notes). A. Z.1. If your very old oak is really perfectly sound, by all means use it. 2. Your Stopt Diapason will do if you complete it to the same scale as you started with. 3. Yes. Different Bhaped blocks or mouths
,,
40 60 30
1
12 inches wide.
H
The
assume
needed
is
to slightly
round
the lower edge of the upper lip after cutting up. It is not necessary to do as you propose with the pipes with inverted mouths, as it is just as easy to cut them higher as it is the ordinary ones. " old woman's tooth " is simply a 2. The plane with the mouth in the direction of its length instead of in the ordinary position. Make the mouth about an inch square on the under-side, and it will then take any size iron up to an inch wide. Plough irons cr chisels may be used in it, and the cuttiug edge should project beyond the face of the plane to the depth of the intended groove. 3. Tuning files can be purchased at any general tool shop, so I believe can the tool above described, but you can easily make
Clonookt (Moystown) . 1., Good oak will do well for pipes instead of pine. The chief reason it is not more used is that it is more expensive. The grain is thought by some
to be too coarse for small pipes but the old builders used it even for their smallest
pipes, with
2.
good
results.
I don't think
you
will find it
any more
Oak blocks will not require facing with mahogany if the grain is not too coarse.
3.
one
4.
for yourself.
board will be described in the chapter on the Pedals. 5. You may cover the tompion all round
you propose. As regards the canary-wood, I should -think from your description it would be
as
4. All pipes are affected by change of temperature, and the paper ones are no exception to the rule. Wood pipes are seldom used in Holland on account of the dampness of the atmosphere. I believe there are only two stops of wood in the great organ at Harlaam. The paper pipes will stand all changes if properly protected by paint or varnish as described. For a very damp climate it might be advisable to use a silicate paint, such as is used for waterproofing damp
will be mahogany. J. B. (South Shields). The "chippinz" heard before the larger pipes sound is caused either by the windways being too large, or the upper lips are not quite parallel with the edge of the languid. The Keraulophon may be loud or soft according *o your fancy. The chamfers on the languids should be very slight, especially for small pipes. The Stopt Diapason sounds more "breathy" than the Open. The Violoncello, in consequence of the method of making, would give about the same fulness of tone as the Stopt Diapason, but should
be
at my disposal to give lessons in organ building. The Post Office Directory will furnish you with the names of all the
London
firms.
walls.
am not
acquain-
ted with
it.
Musicus. It is impossible here to give a detailed criticism of a specification for an organ with 18 stops and 11 accessory movements. The Vox Humana is a reed stop of the tubes are, however, only S-foot tone about 4 feet long to produce the C C note.
;
Your room would not be high enough for such an instrument as you propose, and would be much better if it were made 4 or
5 feet wider.
Your pipe overblows behaB too much wind. Either the the windway or hole in foot is too large. Try closing in the foot a little, and I think you will find it all right. The whistling may be caused in the same way, but perhaps the wind is not properly directed on to the upper lip. A thin knife passed down the windway will very likely cure this defect. Only experience will enable you to remedy these kinds of defects, and that you will very soon gain if you are at all
H. H. D. B.
it
cause
W.J.S. {Malmesbury) . The sound-boards which you have purchased would, I think, be best arranged by placing the bass one across the end of the other, thus making the total length 5 ft. 2 in. and the depth 2 ft. 3 in. The bellowB may then be made exactly the same size as the one described by me in Part XVI., with either a single or Are you not in error in double feeder. stating that the longest sound-board runs from Tenor C to F, 54 notes should it not be 42 notes ? If it is for 54 notes, it is intended to have an octave-coupler. N. O. M. C. (Killitnny). Perhaps the article {in Part XVI.) on the method of making the bellows, will put an end to your
difficulty.
observant.
AMATEURS IN
using stopped pipes, you. are simply duplicating- tlie Stopt Diapason already provided for, which is quite unnecessary. The Clarabella is an open pipe, and may be constructed like the Flute, but to the same scale as the Stopt Diapasoa pipes of the same length. The Dulciana is a metal stop, but you might use instead a stop similar to the Flute, but make it about sis scales smaller. Reed stops are made of metal, and I cannot advise any amateur to attempt to construct them, as they will cost in the end more than he will have to pay to purchase them, ready made, and the chances are that they will be failures after all. A Geatbfcl Frib>*d, writing from the vicinity of Carmarthen, says As you seem to attach some value to the testimony of individual subscribers like myself as to the merits of A-m atfck Work, it would be a grave omission of duty on my part if I failed to let you know what your excellent publication has done for me. Indeed, I feel that I could honestly give you a testimonial of the wonderful kind which we read in the advertisements issued by vendors of patent medicines. For years before its appearance, I suffered from physical debility, mental depression, and low vitality generally. I mean no disrespect to theology when I say that your magazine ha3 wrought in me a sort of bodily and mental regeneration. I have no personal knowledge of any of your contributors, but to several of them I shall owe a deep debt of gratitude while life lasts, and mo3t of all to Mr. Mark "Wicks, whose papers on Organ-building have afforded me an amount of pure pleasure which I have very seldom before experienced in the course of an existence that ha3 already passed half the allotted duration. I am sure many other subscribers share my feelings towards Mr. "Wicks, and hope that his pipers will not soon, come to
COUNCIL,
maintain here
is
295
a
fine field for
ing " and blistering of the finish, the beautiful b!ack surface we so much admire, a s^re indication of bad and hurried work. Many of the ingredients used, the processes gone through, are shop and trade secrets, and have been in the same hands for years, and of which the men are justly proud and equally chary of imparting to others, and herein would lie the amateur's greatest difficulty after building his " body." Amateur work, as I interpret the definition of it, I take to mean, a man undertakes to make for himself that which he cannot afford, or is unwilling to buy right out at once; granted so much, it means something more than the mere building of it. To make the wheels turn round, a good horse is essential, and I believe money is another necessary to support both, to say nothing of the burden of additional taxes for keeping and running both, and I think it follows, the man who can atford this expense and wishes for coach or carriage, will hardly trouble to rig a workshop, fit it with the necessary plant, which is considerable, and all to make himself one coach. I think, Mr. Editor, the odds are he would, with cash in hand, either buy new or secondhand, and hundreds in London every week adopt the latter plan. It's something like the man who attempts to make a glass bottle, the tools would cost him a year's labour to buy to manufacture what he could buy for 4d. Kindly excuse any of my 'remarks I write in the interest of all but should this idea be still entertained, I would, with your permission, suggest where the field for it lies, and that is in the purely rectangular or box system of construction. You may row and then observe driving through London, more partic ularly the suburbs, neat little pony carts, small traps, dog-carts, to hold two or four, generally two, but constructed wholly upon this principle suggested that is, the frameworkis usually
: ;
those
who
wish to build their own conveyances. The requisite harness for the aboe is simple and inexpensive, and no more difficult to construct than boot and shoe making. I
is
highly varnished, ironwork painted black, and heads of screws and bolts outside tipped with a good black, the panels and sides alone offer a wide field for modification in treatment; for instance, they could be darker or lighter according to the framework. Fretwork, basket work and canework might be introduced, a light iron rail could run round the back and sides. I may add I would willingly undertake the writing of a series of articles, but that I do not understand the relative strengths and dimensions of the various parts in construction, but I offer these few suggestions that should you meet with anyone to take it up I venture he might peruse this communication withad vantage to himself and our readers in general. [Our correspondent is sincerely thanked for his letter. It is just the kind of " trap " that he so well describes, or the low basket pony chaise, on which articles are desired. They would be most useful to country readers especially. And it must be remembered that it is not expected that the generality of amateurs should carry out all that is taught or treated in Amateur Work with their own hands. The articles are in some cases rather intended as a guide to those who wish to call the country carpenter, blacksmith, etc., to their assistance. Our readers can fully understand our papers, plans, etc., and by their aid they are enabled to explain clearly what they want to the
whatever he may be, and thus superintend his work and check any errors he may make in carrying out the job.
village artisan,
Ed.]
Telephones.
R. "W. (Hildenboro, Kent.)1. You will not find any economical way to lay your wires underground, and I strongly advise you not to do so if you can help it ; for, apart from the extra expense at the com-
conclusion.
of
inter-
see the is to be introduced in our providing can obtain anyone Journal, you capable of taking it up but, I say, are we not going ahead a trifle in making this a '* hobby" to go in for building carriages and broughams, victorias, and the,like ? Far be it from me to cold water any proposal that may benefit even a few of our many readers, but I must say I was astonished when I saw
J.
T. F.
locked,
above trade
the announcement of thi3 subject, and I think it will be news to many of us to hear of the amateur who indulges in the seductive pastime of coach-building for a "hobby." I should like to see the working plant of that amateur (who essayed to rival the productions of Long Acre), and his coach when built, especially the wheels and varnishing, and then where would he keep it ? but joking apart. Sir, I fear this subject will be beyond the abilities of an amateur as much as' the construction would be of a locomotive, thrashing machine, or fire engine. You may not be aware. Sir, that in one most essential port of coach-building, the varnishing^ poliiking, enamelling a.wl finishing, i^ an operation alone reckoned by months, not weeks, and this time is necessary if good and lasting work is to be turned out, and to avoid that bugbear of coach-builder3, the " crack-
and firmly bolted together with coach screws and round headed bolts and nuts; the panels for side and front are simply screwed to frame, which is sometimes slotted and panels dropped in; the seat is simply a straight board with piece at back and supported by light ironwork and neatly cushioned if economy he not an object, it slides forwards or backwards on two pieces fixed at sides, perforated with holes into which a pin drops from the seat and holds in position the back is sometimes hinged to fall down, and so allow any small traps to be put in, in some cases the body is made longer and a seat fixed back to the other,
;
mencement, should any fault afterwards occur, you would find it very troublesome and difficult to discover and repair. The cheapest way would be to use thick taped and tarred G. j?. wire, which costs about 4d. per yard, but it would not make a good permanent job, and in damp places would
soon lose its insulation. If the distance is not very great, I would advise you to purchase ordinary lead water or gas-pipe, and passing the taped wire through it, lay the
converting it into a trap to hold four. Two wheels, and these can be purchased,! believe, ready made for this class of construction. "What ironwork there is i3 simple in the extreme, being nearly all straight lines, and such as could be made by any amateur of ordinary intelligence in his own kitchen with few and simple tools. The shafts are perfectly straight or nearly so, usually ash, and if constructed for four, should be strengthened with iron where necessary. They are bolted to body of trap underneath. Theenclosed sketch [Thanks forthe sketch which I have not considered necessary to engrave. Ed.] though rough,wiH from my description convey to you my idea, and I
whole underground in the same way as you would any ordinary water or gas-pipe. 2. With only one 'Mine" wire, you must, to complete the circuit, have an " earth "
connection to each battery.
H.
J.
J.
(Bridlington
Quay.) 1. Not
very successfully, unless you added microphones and induction coils. 2. Ordinary galvanized iron telegraph wire, costing about 9d. per dozen yards, or 3 per mile. The supports would, if fixed on buildings, cost about 3s. each complete, but if poles mu3t be employed, the expense would, of course, be more, varying according to locality, etc. 3. Ten or twelve supports to the half mile.
296
Fret-Saw Blades. Amathjr Fret - Worker. Griffin's Pa'ent Saw Blades are numbered from 1 to
10, according to size. Nos. 1 to 6 inclusive, are generally sold at 6d. per dozen, Nos. 7 to 10, at 83. I say generally* because different houses sometimes make a slight difference in price.
AMATEURS IN
Hand
COUNCIL.
be made by any amateur or village mechanic. Easy, simple, perfect, and successful. Full detailed and illustrated instructions.
J. Currell-Denley, SUsoe, Ampthill.
INFORMATION SOUGHT.
Bells. Willing to Help asks : Will you, or any of your correspondents, kindly give me an
get a catalogue of
hand
bells
S.
Transfer Papers.
(York) atks for instructions to make transfer papers, such as are used to transfer patterns on to cloth, satin, etc.
Cutting Chimney Glass of Lamp. Willinj to Help writes, in reply to L. B. : To cut the chimney glassof a lamp,
take a needleful of darning-cotton, not worsted, dip it in benzoline, wind it round the chimney in a ring, Bet it on fire, turning the chimney round, then plunge in cold water up to the cotton, the piece will drop off. He had better practise on an old bottle or two, to get tbe knack, proper heat, etc. The above will also be an answer
Music Stand,
W.
etc., etc.
F. V. A supplement is in preparation, which will put yon in possession of a design and working-drawing for a music stand. An article on a medical coil, for nerve complaints, is also in preparation, and the first of two aTticle3 entitled " How I Built My First Coil," has already appeared. Your
Bench Lathe.
have headstock, back poppit rests, flywheel, etc., of a large bench lathe (6 in. centre), and would feel much obliged if you, or any of your readers, would advise me as to the best way of mounting same. Should be grateful for a rough sketch. Hard Vulcanised India-Rubber.
(Rosses) writes -.I
W. H.
suggestions for supplements are duly noted. Addresses of firms who supply empty metallic tubes for oil colours, have been given to other correspondents, in recent parts of
M. (Witlesden). Politzer writes, in reply to L. B. ; The top of a lamp chimney can be cut with a diamond; but you may have possibly used a
to C.
steel e lass-cutter.
Amateub Work.
Improvement
to send
In
Bench Stop.
ment
so)
(if
may
call it
Rogkr (Swadlincote) wishes to know whether any readers of Amateur Work can tell him if he has heard of hard vulcanised india-rubber being used for fretsawing and if so, where it can be obtained. Persian Ribbon. G. E. I. would be much obliged for information how to make "Persian ribbon,"
;
Amateur Work.
It
poses.
Technical School for Amateurs. A. K. C. writes :I notice in " Amateurs in Council " a suggestion fur the establishment of a school for amateur mechanics. Perhaps Industria and Watchdog are not aware of the existence of the workshops at King's College, of which I enclose a prospectus. I have been attending them during.the evening during the last three years, and can speak most highly of their efficiency. There is accommodation for thirty or forty students in the carpenters' shop, and for as many more in the metal-work departments. There are between fifteen and twenty lathes, besides planing, slotting, shaping, and drilling machines, worked by steam power. [Any reader desiring further information or prospectus should apply to Mr. David Walker, Engineering Workslioiis, King's College, London, W.C. En.] Thomas Syer, of 1, Finsbury Street f Will you please menLondon, E.C., writes tion in your next issue, in reply to Ikdcstria and Watchdog, that I intend starting
wedge, and a slot a cut in the other, both slot and slip running the whole width of the stop, so that the accompanyIMPROVEMENT ing sketch would repreIN BENCH STOP. sent either the front view, the back view, or the section of the stop. This arrangement prevents the wedges from falling apart when they are loosened.
,
in some preparation but what is it ? Mere scent burns too quickly, without diffusing
the odour.
Punches for Repousse Worn. V. (Ambleside) writes : Please tell me where I can get some punches to do some repousse work on brass and other metals.
INFORMATION SUPPLIED.
RULES.
Write on one side only of the paper. 2. Dispense entirely with the forms of commencing and ending a letter usually
1.
Catching Mice.
T. W. (C'apham) offers particulars of a simple and effective way of catchiog mice. He has tried it, and found that several may be caught at a time. Press some bread and butter tightly in the prong of a turned clothes-peg, place it on a plate with the prong covered by a basin, and the edre of the basin resting on the rim, or head of the peg. The little pests will readily go under the basin, and as soon as they begin to nibble, it falls. When you find the trap down, place the plate, etc., in a pail of water, before moving the basin, when you can either drown the intruders, or take them out of the water for the cat, etc. T. W. has known five or six caught this way, in one evening. " Amateur Work."
A. C. (Brighton) Your suggestions which merit earnest consideration, shall have attention. It is possible that a more frequent appearance of the Magazine, if called for by the majority of its readers, will be contrived, and possibly the general feeling may be ascertained by means of votingpapers. But this will in no way tend to alter the style. I should be sorry to see it altered to that of any weekly publication, with which I am acquainted. These are spoiled by the continual recurrence of the weekly heading, and the close union of the advertisements with the test of the mxga.
adopted, writing at the top of the paper, Editor, Amateur Work, and no more. 3. Then write in full the head-line that appears above the paragraph in '* Information Sought," to which the reply is given. 4. Next, commence a reply thus : A. B. C. (Hounslov:), or Verax, etc. [that is, initials of real name and place of residence, or nom-de-plume of writer of reply, as preferred] sends the following reply to R. Q Z. (Aldershot) or Hahfager [initials and place of residence, or nom-de-plume of applicant, as the case may be.] 5. Lastly, let this commencement he followed by the reply.
evening classes for amateurs in wood work, ing in all its branches. It will be supplied with all the newest tools, including my registered benches and mitre machines, etc. Any intending students should send in their names to me as soon as possible, as the number will be at present limited. I propose starting in September. [This is well worthy the attention of amateurs residing in and near London. Ed.]
Incubator. : The other day I noticed the annexed advertisement, which appears to meet the wants of D. H. (Rio de
J. T. P. (Brixton) writes
A Simple
zine.
As it is a question of time, I venture to suggest that D. H. would send over stamps, if one were pobted out to him ; the perhaps Mr. Currell-Denley would entertain it were you to point it out to him, and possibly contribute us an article or two upon the matter. From this, it seems just the very thing " Third edition, post free An in13 stamps 'Amateur Incubation.' cubator and rearer for a few shillings. Can
Janeiro).
:
you speak of, there is every desire your wishes. The difficulty lies in meeting with a practical man, who is both competent and willing to write on the subject mentioned in your letter. Persons have proposed to write on them, but for some reason or other, which is unknown to me, have never sent in even an introducarticles
to gratify
tory paper.
A
297
too small to be anv good. In common with all cheap machines, the saw in the new Rogers' michine describes an arc, and this renders it necessary to be very careful in doing fine work till you get used to it. The first night or two I used the machine I was much disappointed now I would not be without it. I think that it is the best of all the cheap machines, and is certainly more sightly than the Holly, which is also an American machine. Shall be happy to supply any more information I can if it
it's
;
AMATEURS IN
Cane Bending. Politzer writes, in reply to Carlo: "Boil in water for an hour, and then bend to shape, and seeure when cold it will retain it. For a small bend, hold the flame of a spirit lamp to interior of curve until it is turned to dark brown.
;
COUNCIL.
Ticket Writing.
"Willing to Help writes, in reply to F. B. (Pimlico). Take a teaspoonful of lampblack, six drops of gold size, equal
quantities of oil and turps; thin consistency required.
down
to
Microscopes. Politzer begs to inform Microscopical Student, that if he will apply to J. Lancaster and Son, Manufacturing' Opticians, Birmingham, he will get all information.
Nitrate of Silver Stains, etc. B. A. B. B. (Oxford) sends the following Teply to F. A. E. (Newtaicnbutler) : Nitrate of silver stains may be removed from linen "by washing it first with solution of iodine in iodide of potassium solution, and afterwards washing with water and soaking in
is
bisulphide of carbon.
Bird Organs.
Politzer writes, in reply to T. D. bird organ may be bought in Bristol for about 30s. These articles are to be found at most music shops. Polishing Madrepores. Politzer writes, in reply to Bambler These, and all other pebbles, are usually polished upon a lapidary's bench, using emery of various degrees of fineness, and finishing with tripoli. A simple method is said to be as follows Stretch a piece of cloth or flannel upon a straight board and
:
:
is of
any use.
W. C. (Alfreton) : I beg to recommend for general use for a boy the "Windsor fret saw machine, made by the Britannia Company, Colchester. The price is the
reply to
same as that
which
sodic hyposulphite. The following liquid supposed to remove nitrate of silver stains, but I have not tried it Iodine, 10 grains water, 1 oz. ; potassic cyanide, 100
:
W. C. speaks, namely, 17s. 6d. I have had my machine for more than two years in
constant work, and it is still as good as new. It can be taken to pieces in three or four minutes, and is so light that it can be carried anywhere. "W. W. (Woburn) writes : In reply to W. C. (Alfreton), I have used a new Bogers fret machine for two years, and can highly recommend it. My son, twelve years old, can use it equal to myself, and has made numbers of very difficult articles. I gave 17s. 6d. for mine I believe they are now cheaper. Can be had from Melhuish& Co., 85 and 87, Fetter Lane. F. N. E. (Southport) writes : I think W. C. (Alfreton) would be satisfied with the
;
grains.
Cyanide of potassium
is
extremely
poisonous, and the linen must be well -washed after using it. Cato sends the following reply to F.A.E. (Newtov:nbutler) : Nitrate of silver stains can be readily taken out of linen or any white material without injury with a saturated solution of cyanide of potassium. Simply moisten the stain with the solution, and when the stain has disappeared, wash with soap and hot water. The cyanide is a deadly poison, so be careful not to leave it about. F. N. E. (Southport) writes : In reply to F\ A. E., I have frequently used a mixed solution of cyanide of potassium (10 grai-ia per oance) and iodine (a few drops) for removing very deep stains from my hands, and on referring to an old volume of the Photographic News I find it stated as follows: '* For linen, use the ordinary tincture of iodine, and then dip in a weak solution of cyanide of potassium. If the stain is partly caused by pyrogallic acid, it can be removed by soaking for a few hours in a solution of binoxalate of potash, i.e., salts of sorrel, after applying the iodine and cyanide." S. W. 0. (Croydon) writes : In answer to F. A. E. (Nevctovcnbutler) , who asks to know now to take silver or iron stains out of linen, I give this formula. Take hydrochloric acid, and dilute it to half its strength, or, better 3till, chloride of lime in strong solution. Pour a quarterof an ounce of this on the linen, and rub well in till the green stains disappear. Iron stains may still remain of a greenish tint. Rinse the linen, and apply a little dilate solution of
mix together 2 oz. of tripoli, oz. nitric ammonia, and i pint water, pour a small quantity of the mixture upon board, and rub pebble upon it. But the whole
acid, \ oz.
principle of stone polishing is to use abrading matter of varying degrees of fineness until the desired polish is arrived at.
Waterproofing Cloth.
Politzer writes, in reply to B.
;
W.
G.
For instructions in this matter, see Cassell's Household Guide but if this is not to be obtained, I will forward an extract from it
to the Editor.
new Boger
:
Etching on Glass. Etching will J. T. F. (Brixton), writes find this a ticklish job, and great care must
be used with the acids in working. He can try the following on a piece of plain glass first, and if it answers, well and good, if not let him write again and I will send another: this being a recipe I have by me, so cannot speak as to its merits. The glass to be etched should first be heated then coated with an even film of wax or paraffin, melted; soon as set, proceed to etch the design or pattern through it with a fine point or graver. Next obtain or make yourself a shallow lead tray and put in it some floride of calcium (fluor spar), in fine powder, mix to a thin paste with some strong oil of vitriol, and place tray on a warmsand bath, which is a box of sand made hot in the oven, when hot enough it will keep hot for some time after now place the glass
;
Magazine by C. Churchill & Co. I gave 16s. 61. for mine in Liverpool, and after fourteen months' use cau speak well of it in cutting both hard and soft woods and sheet brass, etc. It is also easily packed when taken to pieces, and although one of the cheapest machines in the market, will, I think, compare favourably with the more expensive ones as regards the work turned
out.
B. G. (Longton) sends the following Having had to W. C. (Alfreton) some experience in fret machines, I should recommend the Prize Demas, 35s., which you will get from Harger Bros., Settle, Yorkshire, or through any ironmonger. The Holly is a good one, but not to be compared
J.
reply
Boger W. C.
You cannot
fret
is
do better
potassium oxalate. The linen will be found free from stains. This method avoids the use of potassium cyanide or sodium hyposulphite. Chlorides of the alkalies are .sometimes recommended in lieu of hydrochloric acid ; they are not 30 effective. The hydrochloric acid does not discolour the linen permanently. The alkaline solution in many cases reatore3 the tissues to their proper colour. After alkaline development The stains may be got rid of by oxalic acid. I have taken this receipt from " Instruction in Photography," page 300, by Capt. W. De W. Abney.
tightly over the tray so that the corroding gas comes in contact with the surface exposed by the lines etched. In ten minutes the design will be etched, the lines being translucent. If desired to make the etching opaque(white),the plate should be wet before exposing it, a little bcnsole will remove the superfluous wax or paraffin from the glass.
easy to work,
and
Fret Machines.
(Birmingham) sends the following reply to W. C. (Alfreton) : I have a new Bogers fret saw, cost 17s. 6d., has been in constant use about two and a half years, and is still in good condition. Have done a deal of very good work with it, and ehould recommend you to get one. It will cut inch walnut and mahogany. There is a smaller machine at 13s. 6d. ; don't get it
J. S.
better sawing accomplished by any other machine. I do not think the Prize Holly is so suitable for a little boy as a Boger, as the latter is stronger. Also the price of the former exceeds that of the latter. The is obtainable from Charles new Boger Churchill and Co., Cross Street, Finsbury. Second Engineer in reply to W. C. (Alfreton) states that he finds the Prize
Holly a
first-rate
fret
and
inlaying work.
W.
298
Bamboo
J.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL,
for Cane Chairs. E.
S.
:
Varnish.
sends the following reply to Young Amateur The varnish you require can be supplied by Mr. Samuel Weller, Varnish Maker, 17, TvmpU Street, High Wycomb$.
Fernley, writes : Bamboo may be "bent to any form for ornamental purposes by stemming, or on a small scale by soaking
in boiling water till thoroughly pliable. If now bent to required shape and left to dry, it will retain its form.
Polishing
J. T. F.
and hope in a little while to be able to answer C. L. (Aden), who asks for instructions how to restore polish on amber
enquiries,
mouthpiece.
Ticket-Writing Ink. Politzer writes in reply to F. R. The colours should be bought in a dry state at any oil and colour shop. Always get the best, such as vermilion, royal green, ultramarine blue; for the black a good vegetable black will do. Mix your colours with gum; grind them well with & palette knife on a
:
Polishing Stones. Ferhlbt, writes: Stones of 'all kinds are cut and surfaced by revolving discs of copper fed with emery of different degrees of fineness. After a good surface is thus obtained, the final polish is got by revolving discs of lead fed with tripoli or putty powder. Power for Lathe. J. Fernley, writes: In page 139 is described a lathe fitted on a stand similar toJ.
piece of glass or smooth piece of wood or stone. When any of the colours require to be made lighter, add flake white until of the
required tint.
Tobacco Pipes.
Fernlht, writes : Tobacco pipes are turned in the ordinary foot lathe, the wooden
J.
solvent.
1,
being used.
The wood
that of a sewing-machine. A correspondent asks what form of castings, fittings, etc., are necessary, but he does not say what for. Does he mean for filing the lathe to the table of a sewing-machine stand? if so, he wants two small standards about 4 inches high to be bolted to lathe bed and also to table. He could not fit a small circular saw to cut 1 inch hoard, as the flywheel would not be heavy enough to drive it. It requires a considerable power to drive a circular saw to cut 1 inch board.
To
do
this,
use
common
putty
made
size.
LuminlouB Paint.
F. {Brixton) writes: For the beneV. P. The luminouB paint can be Is. 6d., from Messrs. Iblee and Home, Aldermanbury, with full instructions for use in many ways.
J. T.
fit
of
I.
had from
FIG> j,
is first
WOODEN
SPRING CHUCK.
W. W.
out to shape, Fig. 2. This piece is chucked as per sketch, Fig. 1, bored out and turned as far as the chuck will allow, it is
Tou do
FIG. 2.
WOOD
S
CUT TO SHAPE.
then loosened from chuck, turned round and the stem turned and bored with a halfround bit. It will now have the appearance
not name the subject of the papers to which you refer. I cannot spare the time to inspect your workshop- Tou should write a description of it yourself. Ikpatient. The subject you name is in hand. E. S. {Addingham). An article has appeared on the preparation of slides for the magic lantern. Banjo. Tou ask for designs for a gun and two whips. What kind of gun, etc. ? Please explain your requirements more fully. At the same time, I may say that gun-making; is beyond the province and power of ama-
FIG.
3.
PIPE
and
is
AS TURNED IN LATHE.
down
Japanning
J.
Tin.
S.
Hang up to dry, if the mixture again. possible, where the sun can shine on them. Before they get quite dry, get a piece of pumice stone and well rub the inside of the skin, and you will find that all the fleshy part will peel off, and leave the skin white, and if the pumice stone is persevered with, will be perfectly pliable. If the skiu should be an extra hard one, go over with the mixture again, adding a little more water, and I have finish again with pumice stone.
nearly a hundred skins made into rugs, which have been in use six years, and they are as good as ever they were. This is my own way of curing them, perhaps some one of the readers of Amateur Work may know of some quicker way. I cannot enlighten you in any other way to make them soft, the principal thing in regard to that, is the stretching on the wooden frame.
Fernley writes: W.
(Loughton)
teurs Verax. Tour questions are of such a nature that it is impossible to answer them It depends on your skill, the locality in which you reside, and the demand that exists for the work you mention. H. H. I*. (Chepstow). It will be very difficult to get the information you ask for, but it shall be H. E. Tour request given, if possible shall not be forgotten T. H. (Wolverhampton). A paper shall be given on the
says that japanning cannot be carried out by amateurs, etc. The following is the way I japanned some tin trays for photographic purposes last week, and the coating has turned out as hard as flint. For black japanning grind up very fine some ivory black with japanners' gold size. Of course enough ivory black should be used to give a sufficient body. The dish or any other article should now be carefully cleaned and
if
possible.
In such
cases as yours, the difficulty lies in meeting with a practical man who is competent to write on the subject named.
Communications from the following are acknowledged, and will be ahswered due
course. No letter received after the 15th of the current month can be acknowledged. "North Countrie," J. C. (Stolie Kcicington), F.
thoroughly dried, after which it is warmed before the fire and evenly coated with japan. It is now placed in an ordinary kitchen oven. Those I done were put in the oven in the evening, and in the morning they were quite dry, but not very hard, so I left them in till two o'clock and then took them out, and the coating was now as hard
as flint,
enwell),
(Guernsey), T. N. (Kilburn),
(Hereford),
A. F.
(iowestojt),
Amigo, J. B. Harry,
and glossy.
H. A. P. (Glasgow), India, G J. M. (Clapham), T. L. L. (Colchester), E. G. T. (Ply. mouth), Half Jack, E. J. (Colne), F. M. (Gray's Inn Boad). Many oiher initials, &c, are unavoidably "crowded out" through want of space.
299
which
or three of
will
these
for the
be used
simple
will
colours
When
in
meet his amplest requirements. It is by Barbe & Co., is 6 inches by 4, and contains 22 wells and 2 small slants. The price, plain, is 5s., but, as shown, in a tin case, with flap and glass cover to protect the colours, 9s. Any amateur, however, should be able to make a sufficient case of some material for it; or if he makes his own colour box, as I made mine, he will provide for it, as well as for
will
Lechertier,
chrome work is
to use the ordinary slant
hand,
it
oil
tile,
that the
The
colour
will
be
<g5>
[IHIII
^3
1
1
^
f)
P
II"'"
mixed colour is somewhat less exposed in it than when on the slant, and there is therefore no
waste.
gradations
1
With
the moist
it
1.
'
e
WELL
water-colour
does
is
as
FIG. 24.
no waste
at all with
may be
49.
found
most
COMBINED
them.
The
left
colours
convenient.
AND SLANT
TILE.
may be
very useful
shown
in Fig.
FIG. 2?.
It is particularly
adapted to
colours
;
work
in
FIG. 23.
into
working
Prices.
order
again.
52.
the prepared
The
;
the
wells,
and
the
worked
up
in
The
;
in mixture.
size is
6d.
may be
priated to a
little
PALETTE KNIVES.
53. Use.
Of these,
but
little
requires to
medium
will
into
which
be
KNIFE.
said.
With them
be dipped when "just a touch" more of medium required at any moment. This plan will be is found highly convenient, as it obviates constant recourse to the reserve bottle.
Of
course,
when
the
At least two will be wanted 54. Ivory and Steel. by the student who is more than a beginner one of steel, and one of ivory or bone, for use with those coburs which would be ruined by any, even the
slightest,
An
old ivory
no
otJter
colours.
50. The advanced student, who may be engaged on a work in its second or higher stage, will probably be using a large number of colours at one sitting, and as much trouble and vexatious interruption is saved by having all the colours ready before setting to work, he will find a well tile, of the kind shown in Fig. 25,
bone paper-knife makes an excellent palette knife Care should be taken that no ink if narrow enough. if it is on it, or a steel knife might as well be used should have any ink stains, these must be carefully scraped out and the surface repolished. A very good
or
;
width is \ inch. A sharper edge than is generally found in bought knives will be deemed an advantage
;
little fine
this.
As
for
3
steel,
to
the work,
by
given in Figs. 26 to 28
fancies, while
all
to the edges.
meet
all
require-
ments.
a trowel-shaped arrange-
and
and
ment,
may be most
convenient,
but the advantage is more apparent than real. Fig. 28 is made to represent a half-worn-out knife, and is a
trifle
more
is
but
this last
Many
servants have
mediums, lead-pencils, crayons, and other things. It will, I think, be found the best arrangement, to have the first four of these on the right, and the rest on the left. In Fig. 29,
rag, test tiles,
I
a knack, when cleaning table-knives, of making the back as sharp as the front and an old steel dessertknife, sufficiently thinned down by such a process, makes as good a palette-knife as can be desired. The handle should be a balance one, so that if the knife with wet colour on it be laid down, the colour may as to length of not touch anything, and be spoiled
; ;
The
blade, about 3J inches is the best. The following may be 55. Prices.
taken as the
wood
4
in.
>
have a projection extending about 3 inches forward beyond the legs. Through this a hole should be bored, towards the right-hand end, and through this hole will pass a bolt, by which will be secured the arm-rest, to be subsequently described. As there is a good deal of leverage on the edge through this arrangement, the top should be about 1 inch thick. The legs should be set very firm, and it is a very good plan to have those at each end bound by a strong piece of wood, and these two tied
top should project, or
35 ln
2/1.
to-/"/
-/8 to 1/.
-/io to 1/.
1/6 to 2/2.
K
1
1
/'b\
A
Fig. 28.
Skew
blade.
-jS to 1/2.
-/9 to 1/3.
./io to 1/4.
\B
"d
1
Cautioji.
The
palette
knife
should not
be
DlCODDDl
FIG.
used
to
do duty
is
its
neither
J
; C, Slab G, Hole for nut
;
oc
D, Palette H, Brush;
will
is
do
in-
tended
for
A, Slope
E, Brushes
rest;
I,
F,
Mediums
PAINTING TABLE.
57. The Leading Points about the painting table are (1) that it should be solidly constructed, so as to stand quite firm, (2) that it should be suitable in height to the height of the painter, (3) that its area
is
by a
cross-tree,
like
which
will serve
as a foot-rest
there
being thoroughly at ease at your work. The table should have a drawer, or drawers, in which
to
nothing
keep
In
all
when not
actually in
should be
place for
sufficient,
and suited
to afford a
convenient
use.
for
fact,
all
If (4) that it should be placed in a good light. these are attained, other details which tend to con-
and
what is in use, and for stock. It will be found an advantage if one of the drawers has a ledge fixed to one side of it. If this ledge has holes made in it with
a centre-bit, and a
it,
may be passed over to a great extent. At the same time, it is well to know the kind of table at which complete convenience may be had. The following description gives the body of such a one ; the adjuncts being left for
further consideration.
58.
little
slab of
wood be
in
fitted
it,
beneath
the
little
bottles will
be kept
safe.
The arrangement
is
similar
chemical test-tubes.
Construction.
The
Position of Table. As to this, it goes without saying that the correct aspect of an artist's studio is
top should
easily
be perfectly
may be
and completely
which
removed from
it.
minimum
will
of
be ample.
slip
As
light, and direct rays do not fall on the So, as long as the painter can secure diffused light, and not direct or reflected rays, on his work, it is
quarter
it
of
surface
may
run round the ends and back, to keep off, and this can easily be fixed to
comes. One cannot always have it all one's own way, however, so it is necessary to point out that it is important that the painter should not face the source
OVERGLAZE PAINTING ON PORCELAIN.
of light or have it on his right, else inconvenient shadows of the hand and arm would be cast upon the work. Therefore, in any other than a well-diffused or northern light, the light should fall on the painters
table
left,
301
crayon, a tracing point, tracing paper, transfer paper, a pounce, Indian ink, rose pink, or lamp black, and
gummed paper
of them, that
in the table
or modelling wax. as
These
articles,
such
is,
may be
drawer.
Prices.
d.
may
stand with
back
to the
window.
be mentioned,
RAG.
60.
is
Kind of Rag.
This, the
it
last to
most useful aids. The great thing is that it shall not be fluffy. Therefore, do not on any account use cotton rag, which I have seen recommended, although I must think more through thoughtlessness than through want of
for a
good painter
finds
one of
his
Transparent "
Ve'ge'tal,"
28 inch
by
21 inch (Lechertier,
Barbe
o o
1
&
Co.
by
Ivory Tracing Point
17 inch
knowledge.
The
it
....
. . . ;
each
and these, if they settle on and they do nearly as much mischief if they get on paint which is still tacky. Linen Those of my readers is free from this objection. who have experience in household matters will understand why windows and glass utensils are cleaned not with cotton cloths, but with "glass" cloths, which are made from flax. New linen is somewhat harsh the best kind is old linen rag, quite free from lint. The rag is constantly coming into 61. Uses. requisition, and in a good hand is as useful as a brush occasionally more so, for in many cases particularly those of some kinds of clouds the rag will pick out the lights and discover the ware in a way that the
always being given
up,
Sketching Crayons, Lithographic per dozen o 9 Crayon Holders, each, brass, 2d. and 3d. nickel,
;
6d. to 9d.
Indian Ink, is. per bottle (liquid) Modelling Wax, 6d. per stick. \
3d.
stick.
word as
T/ie
to
some
(a.)
Lithographic Chalk
to handle.
To
prevent
it
should
have a piece of paper wrapped tightly round it, and gummed down, or be held in a crayon holder. For those who wish to try their hand at making
well.
It is
often useful
own chalk, I give the following recipe, taken from "Watt's Dictionary of Chemistry." It is no doubt a good one, but I give it without responsibility 32 parts beeswax, 4 parts purified tallow,
their
:
and two of the most important brushes the softeners and dabbers are cleaned by means of the rag. So that the im-
24 parts soap,
lampblack.
is
at
once apparent.
in
may
transfer or tracing point, or style (Fig. 30), be made out of any piece of hard, close-grained
in detail
that
is to
say,
he
wood, such as the handles ordinarily supplied with large barrel pens. It should be regularly and gradually fined down to a point which must be perfectly smooth.
The
stilettos ladies
have each of these represented, to however small and limited an extent. These are the articles numbered 1 to 9 in section 12, and the remainder will be taken up gradually at the commencement of each such succeeding paper until they are all disposed of.
ing,
embroidery work
burnishing point
purpose.
is
PROCESSES.
63.
Having now
all
we
we we must
is
to
go when
it
The
first
first
concern
is
the design,
and
this
is mixed. whether we
Therefore, our
Tracing Paper, the Vegetal paper of Barbe & Co. is certainly the It lies flat, finest transparent paper I have ever seen. thin, and for such a paper is reit is beautifully markably tough and there is therefore no such waste as occurs in the generality of such paper, which with a crease whitens, loses its transparency on the crease, and cracks. Hence, although it is double the price of the ordinary kind, the economy and satisfaction in
(c.)
As
to
Messrs.
Lechertier,
using
it
THE OUTLINE.
64. Materials.
(d.)
Paper may
readily be
made by
rub-
According
to the
method which
B,
may be adopted
lithographic
bing one side of unglazed thin paper with raw linseed oil to dampness, and then working into it lamp-black or rose-pink. When it has dried somewhat any excess
302
of
The bought
:
transfer
drawn with a
fine
if
it is
too strong
the solution were thick the pencil would clog with the
and marks too thickly, and requires to be weakened. (e.) The Pounce may be anything that will take up a small quantity of powder on its surface a little wool rolled into a ball and covered with rag will do, or an infant's quite worn-out puff makes a capital one.
;
The
great advantage of
that
it
is
so easily
oil paint,
These
a
will
be
used
brush.
FIG.
with
to
tracingoil
Mix with
the
and
stencil.
spirit
requisite
consistency. The tone (J.) Indian Ink should be as good as can be should not be strong, got. The cheaper kinds just sufficiently deep to FIG. 31. STICK CUT FOR REMOVING FALSE LINES. are anything but pure, give a clear outline. and as a little goes such a and may cause stains Preparation of the ware is unnecessary with these. very long way, it is far more satisfactory to get it (d.) Blacklead Pencil.-The ware must be prepared good at once, in which case it will burn out in the kiln. and the film hard. The pencil must be handled very not the (g.) Rose- Pink is a vegetable colour lightly, or it will scratch the film, and no mark at all enamel colour. A small quantity can be got at any will appear. By this means the minutest details can colour-shop, and will last a long while. be put in. This plan is most suited to delicate work, (h.) Lamp-Black is best obtained by holding a in which very fine outline and much drawing is recold plate close down over a lighted good tallow quired. Needless to say, the pencil must be modecandle, when the chilled smoke is deposited on the rately soft say B and of first quality. The only under surface of the plate, and must be collected. objection to this plan (though it decreases as the film 65. Preparation of tlic Ware. Before anything else hardens) is the liability of the film to wash up and is done to the ware, it should be washed quite clean and of the outline being lost. Very careful work through;
dried.
In
some
is
out
is
required with
this.
by covering the ware with a thin film which will take a pencil mark. To do this, mix a few drops each of oil and spirit of papers, a tracing-point, a blacklead pencil not softer turpentine, any excess than HB, and some 2 2 being on the side of the gummed paper or mospirit, and with a rag For light delling wax. 2 Z 2 2 rub a few drops of this paper ~~\ the transfer ware, *s 4 ' over the ware, completely 2 will be black or rose 2
This
is
effected
Tracing the Outline. If it is intended to produce on the ware an outline identical in size with that of the copy, the requirements are tracing and transfer
67.
'
'
covering
ing,
J
>
\
5lp.
vS
=s
thin
as
possible,
to
must
1
/
1
ft/
1 1
be allowed
will
thoroughly dry,
become when it
2 FECI
be quite
firm.
k c
1
J
2
N&'
2
66.
line.
f 5 the interior. Next FIG. 32. DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATING REDUCTION, ETC BY SQUARES. draughtsman will at mark on the plaque, or tile, or the plate, if it has a moulded edge once draw his outline directly on the ware without any the top and bottom spots. artificial aids. In a plate or dish there should be ends of a diameter. Plaques are rarely {a.) Lithographic chalk marks well, if sometimes a found perfectly rectangular therefore, a true recttrifle thickly, on the glaze, but should it mark unangle should be described, and the points marked, in equally, simply prepare the ware, and the difficulty will which the upper and lower sides are bisected. Similar be overcome. It is rather brittle stuff, so requires to marks should be made on the tracing, and this should be handled delicately. It be laid on the ware, so that the corresponding marks (6.) Indian Ink will also be used on the glaze. on both coincide. A morsel of wax at each corner should be rubbed up with water, and the solution
E ;
^
I
>^ ^ gV
y. -,.
paper on the copy, and withtheblacklead pencil carefully trace over the
outline
HH
1
beneath,
and
should be
fairly strong,
The
outline
is
will
keep'the tracing
'in position,
or the corners
may
33
is
gummed
paper.
piece of
another.
It
The
ready.
prepared face downwards, is next introduced between the tracing and the ware, so as to be quite under the design. Now, with the style go
over every line of the tracing.
fully 68. If this is
done care-
be evident that the holes must be as close together as is practicable, but they must be quite separate and distinct, or they would run together in the rubbing, and the stencil fall to pieces. The stencil must be fixed to the ware by wax, at one or
will
The
to duplicate portions
of the outline.
raise
To
two
ascertain
more points near the centre, so that the edges may be free to move. Dry powder (rose, pink, or lampblack)
is now dusted over the stencil, and the outline appears on the prepared ware in a succession of dots
adjacent
if
and
transfer papers,
wanting by going over the parts missed. Any unmay be removed by a bit of soft wood, such as fire-wood, cut to a fine narrow edge, as in
necessary- lines
Fig. 31, or
should then be fixed by going over it with the tracer and a little colour. It may be necessary to vary the point dappui of the stencil in work
;
by a bit of rag twisted to a point, and damped between the lips. Care must be taken to
more than very slightly out of the plane in such case, judgment will have to be exercised as to the points and extent of the inevitable deviation from the copy.
FIG. 33.
PANTOGRAPH.
70.
avoid pressing with the fingers on the transfer paper while this is on the ware, as ugly marks will be produced, which
The
student
may
for
often wish to
may be awkward
to
remove without
for
this.
Stencilling.
is
This
plan
is
adapted
ware
which
more
Indeed, the
straight
be quite
ware.
at right angles
line,
and through
and
set
fix
dry.
Now
and prick through the outline. This should be done on a cloth, or a few thicknesses of blotting-paper.
The
now
Divide the lines on the plaque into the same parts, which will be greater or less in size as the tile is greater or less than the copy, and complete the squares then in each square on the tile is to be reproduced what is in the corresponding square
other.
number of equal
nutmeg-grater
that the
little
this
of the copy.
An
eye to proportion
is
what
is
most must
required here.
the
of a square
so
the back with a flat piece of fine pumice-stone, or with a piece of the finest glass-paper, from which most of the roughness has been removed by rubbing against
new
b.
outline also.
For
illustration,
A and
The troublesome
part of this
when
34
the outline
is
HOW TO MAKE
finished, all the
in
PICTURE FRAMES.
scaffolding
must be
HOW
U. MILLBIIOOK.
Pantograph. Tig. 23 (Pantograph Simplified Barbe & Co.). This very simple contrivance consists of four slips of wood fastened together as shown in the Fig. The cheaper example has holes pierced in the left long arm, and corres;
Lechertier,
INCE my
was
left
in
short arm. The better kind each of the two arms, so that
is
article on picture frames have had an opportunity of seeing the corner cramp and mitrecutting machine manufactured by Booth
first
written,
Brothers, of Dublin.
With regard
to
increased.
The
nut,
must say that these clamps are likely to prove very serviceable to the amateur, as the moulding can be held firmly, and there is not so much danger
the former,
I
paper, or plaque,
When
the
is
placed to
pencil
of
when driving home the nails as when an ordinary vice is used. The vice will, course, prove the more useful of the two where only
left,
and the
to the right.
left,
To
is
placed to the
right.
The dry
is
point
is
an occasional frame is made, as it is available for so many of the odd jobs executed by most amateurs. The mitre-cutting machine is also most useful, as it saves time and cuts the mitre at one stroke, clean
reduction
and
true,
rendering planing,
is
etc.,
unnecessary.
paper or plaque.
The
price,
too,
moderate
and, where a
I
The number of
ment
scale
is
by the
is
and
pencil,
or dry point,
This aid
2s. 9d.;
(c.)
shown
in Fig. 34.
5s.;
Prices: plain,
best-make, 21s.
GuerMs
is
This
amateur by all means to invest in both corner cramps and a mitre-cutting machine. Oxford frames are, perhaps, the most useful and artistic of all frames, and the best of all for general purposes. Photographs of scenery, engravings, etc., always look well when in an Oxford frame. Then, too, these frames can either be carved, if the amateur
is
enlargement cr reduction.
:
The
is
skilful
principle
simple
is
centre of which
able for
making them
is
walnut,
oak, or
mahogany;
but oak
I
will
almost invariably used for the purpose. now give instructions for making Oxford
First of
all,
make
a drawing on paper.
left,
frames.
To
central portion.
amateur
to
and
Now
down on
it
the rubber,
;
and rub
this slightly, so
as to transfer
a trying plane), an iron square, and a cutting gauge. In addition to these, he will require a parting or Vtool,
and a firmer
for the
chisel J
in.
5).
decrease in
water.
size.
is
To
is
Now
for these
wood.
prefer
oak
The rubber
clean
1
some
10
o o
I2i
we
shall consider
colour,
3 10
termed " stave oak," and not English oak, the latter, however useful it may be for many purposes, being too tough and cross-grained Stave oak can be obtained from for our purpose.
frames is what
almost any timber-merchant, either in staves or in planks of various thickness. The ordinary Oxford frames are made in great
quantities
further
and take a simple subject in hand. In the meantime, sufficient has been said to enable anyone who intends to set to work steadily under my directions to get together all the appliances and apparatus that he will require for properly carrying out the task that he is about to take
to in
how
mix
at
a very
hand.
cheap rate. The great failing of these machine-made frames is that they are never, or at least very rarely, properly finished off. In a medium sized frame the plank of oak should be 1 in. thick, and this should be
(To
be continued.)
swan
The
next thing to do
HOW TO MAKE
will
PICTURE FRAMES.
fore
35
be to cut these
strips
oft"
is
the rabbet only extends from joint to joint, and thereit cannot be made with the plane, but must be cut out with the parting tool and chisel. Here again
completed.
by 10
:
in.
and the
sides 15
in length.
The
pieces of
recourse must be had to the cutting-gauge for marking the lines required for the rabbet. When these lines have been marked, take the parting tool and work it along inside the lines left by the gauge, and cut away
the waste wood,
chisel.
oak should now be planed on two sides, or rather on the front and one side, and carefully squared then, by means of the cutting-gauge, which should be set to
;
and form the rabbet with the firmer Care should be taken to make that part of
the rabbet nearest the front of the frame perfectly straight and level, as any inequality will tend to make the glass
and picture
lie
first
used,
finished off
by means
With
an iron plane.
off"
which is never seen, so much care need not be taken. Amateurs will find it rather difficult to hold the pieces
rally find
to
mark
done by placing the sides together and marking both at the same time, by means of the square and a scriber, the top and bottom being marked oft in a similar manner. The next thing to do is to put the frame together, and in doing this we must be careful to make the
pieces
fit
of the frame firmly whilst cutting the rabbet." I geneit better to fix each piece securely in the vice, or else to use a couple of bench-screws, one at each end.
Having completed the rabbet satisfactorily, the next process will be to cut the pieces to the exact length. In a frame of this size, the projecting ends should extend about \% in. beyond the outside of the joints,
in marking and cutting the pieces of the frame it advisable to cut the two sides and the top and bottom by placing them together, and so ensure
is
First of
all,
take
and
the piece of
wood intended
and
line
at each end, and outside of the previously drawn draw a second line at a distance exactly equal to
-accuracy.
wood intended for the side, the bottom piece being marked in a similar way. The object of this will be seen by referring to Figs. 6 and The 7, where the corner of the frame is represented. sides of the frame are marked in the same way, only
the width of the strip of
After this is done the frame has to be chamfered, and to do this properly we first of all mark off the width of the intended chamfer the width is merely a matter of taste, but in a frame of medium
;
size
it
is,
in.
each way.
When
marked
from the back of the frame instead of from the front. When this is done, a tenon or back-saw is used, and the top is sawn half through at the marks, as at a, the piece of waste wood being cut out with a chisel and in sawing this great care must be taken not to saw more than half way through the strip, and to saw
;
the
that the chisel has a keen edge, otherwise a slight slip of the tool may do much to spoil the frame. Too
if
the slot
is
not
be'takenin making this chamfer. and even and sharp. Although scraper and sand-paper are frequently used in finishing an Oxford frame, I do not recommend
care cannot
much
Keep
wide enough
are properly
it
chisel so as to
exactly into
the front of
B.
When
is
these joints
made
their use in fact, I strongly disapprove of both, as not only do they destroy the sharp appearance of the work, but they tend to make the amateur careless.
;
the front of
and B fits tightly into A. Of course, the same process is gone through at the other corners of the frame, and the frame should now be put together
B,
it is
to see that
all right.
is
that
the
first
stage
the second.
completed, and turn our attention to The frame must be taken to pieces again
and the "rabbet" cut out. The rabbet lines are marked from the joints of the frame only, and, of course, marked from the back. In this case the rabbet line should be \ in. from the front of the frame, and about the same distance from the back. This is shown at Fig. 8, which is a section of the frame and Fig. 9 shows a corner of the frame as it appears when seen from the back, and from this it will be noticed that
;
any slight inequality of surface can by the use of a little sand-paper, and consequently his work always has a slovenly appearance. Fig. 10 shows how an Oxford frame should look when properly chamfered and finished. It is customary to put in a black nail at each corner, to give a finish to the frame but a better plan is to
fancies that
easily
He
be
rectified
pateras out of ebony, as these look are better in every respect. I give a sketch of two pateras in Figs. 11 and 12.
well
if
The amateur can now put his frame together, and made he will only require to touch slightly the
and drive them firmly home. If any inequality appears on the frame, or if the sides are
3o5
nary
not be required
tight,
but
may be
used.
After
may
can be be then
have seen Oxford frames made out of the ordibut I would not advise any gilt moulding amateur to make Oxford frames of that material, as, owing to the rabbet of the moulding being carried through, the ends of the frame have a very unfinished appearance. Should the amateur want a gilt Oxford
I
;
FIG. 10.
FIG.
12.
FRAME.
being a Should a rub over with a dark stain be required, to give the frame an "old oak" appearance, dissolve half-an-ounce of bichromate of potass in six ounces of water, and apply with
reckoned as
frame,
let
gild
it
him.
boiled linseed
oil.
self or get
By doing
the gold,
this the
grain of the
and gives
an
artistic
boiled linseed
in
a brush or rag to the frame, and when dry oil with oil. How to fit up the frame I described
next article will be devoted to novelties in picture frames, including cork frames and frames in
My
my
List article.
(To be continued.)
37
WALLIS-TATLES,
C.E., A.I.M.E.
MACHINE
A roller of large diameter made of indiarubber feeds the work to be planed up to and past the The diameter of the driving pulley is 15 in. by cutter.
planed.
3 in.,
pass of amateurs,
shown
in Fig.
28,
to drive the
it
machine
is
which represents a small patent planing machine with fixed cutter, recently out brought byMr.Hazeland,and manufactured by Mr. W. B. Haigh, engineer, Globe Iron Works, Hill Street, Oldham. Itis adapted to the wants of amateurs in so
could be worked
by any one possessed of a small gas engine. This machine is also adapted to plane Venetian blind laths, aths, etc., and would
be found a very
useful tool for or-
many
other des-
criptions of work.
Should
desired to the
it
be
much
quires
as
it
re-
tively little to
work machine by
the
to
hand-power,
best
method
rate
speed being
cient
some three
revolualso
hundred
adopt would be to erect a countershaft, fitted with a fly - wheel of about 6-ft. diameter,
and
the
from
it
arranged
handles
to
fact that
with
turn
might
desired.
The
machine, the
to centre
dis-
price, considering
should
short
the
machine,
of
centres
=,
necessi-
tatingthetighten,
sketch,
plane
in
three
inches
width
by
any
and producing
increased friction,
liability
length in reason,
and supplied with two knife-boxes, each fitted with a one can be sharpened whilst
knife, so that
FIG.
to
heat,
and, as a natural
HAZELAND's PATENT.
;
the
in
use,
is
,12
to
os. at
works.
larger
machine
also
made
on the other hand, are equally to be avoided, owing to the sag mparted to the belt. The fly-wheel may be either made of cast
to drive
work
of a stationary knife,
fixed in a box,
fitted
2 inches in length.
The
perfectly true,
and
and turned on the rim, or else built up of wood. This latter plan would be the most advisable for an amateur to adopt, as he could knock one together himiron
foolish to
trifling cost, and would be go to the expense of a cast iron fly-wheel where a wooden one would do as well.
self at
a comparatively
3 o8
hanging over
it,
and
it
a kind of
attend to
this,
and do
do to
as so
many
down
colourists
delicate grey
tint
OF
making
this too
regards the latitude allowed to the artist in the way of alterations or improvements, there has been much difference of
opinion
;
dark or a dirty appearance is produced. If the dark line running from the nose to the corner of the mouth be too dark in an autotype or argento bromide print,
it
knife,
can
absolute flattery,
latter
and a very
light touch
may
be
fairly allowed.
The
friends of a person
accustomed to see them in the ordinary light of a room animated by conversation, form a very different
impression of them than that which they get from a sitting in a photographer's studio, with its top-side-light,
some camera staring at them, have heard young ladies say positively
in a vice, looking at
hurts."
To begin
is
it
mixed with some warm colour, say orange chrome, as scratching would ruin it. Be very careful about the shape of the mouth, tint the upper lip with Indian red, and the under with rose madder and vermilion, shading it off with grey at the shadow side do not let the shadow under the lower lip remain black, nor the dimples at the corners of the mouth warm up also the black shadow under the chin, and if the shadows down the shadow side of the face be very strong, the collar and linen on that side must be boldly darkened with almost any grey colour, but a wash of lamp; ;
narrow
colour
tone
;
it
and tone
down with
the grey
shadow
black
with a
touch
of
gamboge makes
capital
them down
There are many shades of white hair, some being creamy, others cooler creamy white hair can be ofien well represented by a general light wash of sepia, afterwards putting on the lights with while and
;
any one of the pearly shadow colours can be used if put on boldly and strongly enough. But do not be disappointed if you cannot get this on even, most probably you will not, but let it dry and then
colour, or stipple
it.
is
This darkening of the whites on the shadow side a most important matter in a finished picture
Roman
different
ochre.
Silvery hair
may be
grey
painted with
colour.
firstly,
proportions
in
of the
shadow
in
because photographs rarely give the shadows white and, secondly, because if it is firmly done, it
;
and then if it looks too stiff or smooth break it up here and there with a dark stroke in the light, or a
light (body-colour) stroke
in the dark, not
with pure
white
Now
it
examine
be only
the forehead.
If
there
are the
by
have a pained almost always caused by an involuntary drawing up of the eyebrows at the inner extremities next to the nose that should be altered by cutting off the contracted part and restoring the proper arch of the eyebrow as it should be when at rest. There is a variety of eye sometimes seen in which instead of the upper eyelid being visible along its whole extent, it is covered in the middle portion by a kind of bag of
at the corners of the eye.
If the eyes
it
expression, as
is
is
by contrast make the shadow side look and more luminous. Nothing looks more hideous than to see one side of a face dark, and the other light, with a collar staring white on both sides, and this leads me to speak more of what can be done by contrast. Should a photograph be faint and weak, do not put too dark a background, keep the whole thing in the same low pitch, so to speak then again with colours, suppose you have a subject with a very red face, you must paint him as red as he is, or nearly so, but by the introduction of something red, say a curtain in the background, it will be somewhat toned down by contrast, and yet look like him. Again, it is often unavoidable, especially in a photograph brought to you, and not arranged by yourself, that there will be some object that requires painting too
will
often
lighter
in tone, if
much lower
or
same colour somewhere else in the picture, very in tone still by the admixture of black some other colour, keeping it at the same time
rather fainter.
39
too lengthy to
more words on
and so on
;
it
is,
increase
blue, of yellow,
ETAL
and
all
spinning is the art by which sheet metals are shaped whilst revolving in the lathe, this shaping being done by the
pressure of burnishers of different shapes.
It
Things in sunlight, look different from things in shadow, and if sunlight and shadow come side by
side, the contrast is often
somewhat
startling to the
why amateur
ful art.
mechanics,
observant eye.
To
of everything, should
Its great
who know so
generally
little
know
little
and the
lights
let
and
inexpensive tools required. Any amateur possessed of a lathe, and a fair knowledge of turning can spin (shape) sheet metals to any pattern that can be turned. With this slight introduction to my
subject,
just give a
better to
make it darkish
against
the light side of the face, and light against the dark
side of the face, although
I
am
I
starting the actual work, I will of the few tools required. I have already mentioned that a lathe is necessary, and as the amateur will not get a lathe on purpose for
list
and before
metal spinning, he
got.
will
have
to
the modern school, who more or less follow Mr. Ouless, you make the entire background one deep flat almost black colour, this however would be troublesome in water colour, but is worth bearing in mind, because its very flatness and darkness seem to help both the colour and modelling, as seen in the perfectly marvellous work of that gentleman, in his portraits in oil from nature, and of which I have the privilege of examining many that come to be copied by the autotype process. A good generally safe and useful tint for a background, may be made of French blue and sepia, darkened down at the bottom corners of the picture with pure sepia, enriched perhaps in the deepest part with a little burnt umber; this should be washed on, using plenty of gum, and then stippled up with the same mixture, or one slightly allied to it, but different. This stippling with a third colour has often a charming effect, but in the hands of an amateur it is difficult to prevent the colouring getting patchy. Should some part dry too blue, even it up with sepia, or if too brown with the blue. If it be desired to fill up a large bare-looking background, a curtain or panel may be introduced, but not too conspicuously, and let the panel, or dado, or both, be rather suggested than otherwise do not let it run all the way in the same light and shade, but loose it almost here and there. A panel may be traced out lightly with yellow ochre, burnt umber, and a touch of white, and then here and there a glint of light, composed of Roman ochre and white, this represents a gold ornamental panel, and may have a sketchy scroll indicated at the
;
4i in. lathe, but on smaller sizes (3 in. or 3I- in.) only the softer metals, such as Britannia metal, lead, or
zinc, can be spun, unless the articles are of small diameter, then copper, brass, or silver could be used
;
choose the most handy size for such work, I should say a strong 5^ in. or 6 in. lathe, with heavy fly-wheel, would be the best. Besides the lathe, the other tools are few. Before
I
but had
to
made to work and chucks are necessary. Fig. 1 represents the screw chuck Fig. 2, the prong or fork chuck Fig. 3 is a small face plate, the face of which is turned so as to leave a roughish surface, this rough surface is to more easily take the composition for cementing blocks of wood on. The
spinning the metals, a pattern
is
always
face
is
work
on,
all
As
for ordinary
wood
an expense
tools
to
cf spinning metals
but we
is
now come
;
to the actual
tools are
shaped.
Fig.
These
4,
represented in Figs.
nishers
Fig.
4, 5,
and 6
corner.
{To be continued.)
round nose These three burnishers are sufficient to do a lot of work with, but other shapes will suggest themselves to you while working. They are all made of J square steel, about 6 in. long outside handle, and the handle itself about 9 in. long, they should be well hardened and polished. These sizes are for work that would be done in a 5 or 6 in. lathe, but for smaller lathes the size of ordinary turning tools would be sufficient.
of the shape shown.
;
5, flat
and
Fig. 6, horn-shaped.
3io
from the ordinary on top with Into one of these holes a steel peg is several holes. put, to act as the fulcrum in using the burnishers, and it is moved from hole to hole as the -work advances.
The
little
it
is
drilled
thinned surface, and thus brings it back to its origina thickness. A few strokes will suffice to bring the lead
to bear
it is
then smoothed
is
The
top edge
now turned
an ordinary turning
tool,
tools,
we
will
box
is
finished.
look for some work. Let us take for instance a plain This is a very box, such as represented in Fig. 8. simple piece of work, and, to give all the advantages
Now
made
for
comes the
it.
lid.
A
it,
piece
placed against
we can
make
it
of Britannia
and and
will
lid.
metal, or the
more
is
set going,
We
box
is
body of the
inside, with
li in. in diameter,
lid.
and
2 in.
deep
used to press the metal against the pattern. We suppose we want a bead around the edge of the
dome
the
to
The
being
thing
let
To
the
the
make
strokes
this
pattern
first
of
burnisher
make,
us
take a piece of
wood
size,
of suitable
circumfe-
to
edge
A, Fig. 12;
also in working
we
cut a
down the
should from
right.
sides
circular piece of
the strokes
all
left
be
to
4i
in.
diameter,
place
of the
We now work
this
accumulaof a
mill
and
bring
up
tion of metal to
the form
centre piece
9,
semicircular
bead,
it
A, Fig.
should
and
with milling
FIG. 5.
ROUND NOSE
BURNISHER.
FLAT BUR
NISHER.
finished,
it
may
be
in Fig. 10.
lacquered
shape represented
turned on
it
to suit fancy
is
a very pretty
Now
turning
right to
Fig.
9,
;
place the T-rest in position as if for ordinary take burnisher No. 6, and with a sweep from
left,
appearance, and
just as
clay.
The
next
amateur friend having succeeded in making have mastered the first principles of metal spinning, and he should try his hand on some
this box, will
My
stroke should be taken the reverse way. The reason for this is that, if all the strokes were taken in one
direction, the metal
Copper, from
its
ductility, is
a pleasant metai
Fig. 1 1 represents, much exaggerated, the action of the burnisher during the two strokes. During the
first
stroke you will see that the metal at A is piled up by the burnisher. The second stroke, as at B, spreads back this accumulation of metal over the partly
and silver it requires To annealing when it gets hard and untractable. anneal take it from the pattern and put it in a bright fire, when red hot take it out and drop it in cold water. This will soften it, and cause it to work
to spin, but together with brass
pleasantly.
The
3ii
IIG. 15.
CANDLESTICK
FIG. 16.-
MIRROR.
'__)
'Jig- 19-
DIFFERENT
"
312
THE
VIOLIN:
oil,
HOW
TO
MAKE
IT.
the pattern
be lubricated whilst being spun ; tallow, being most often used for this purpose.
articles
or soap
of course, to
make
This
will
harder metals, we
work.
vices
silver
I
Now make a copper tube of this proper length, the joint to be neatly brazed with silver solder. Before going any further, a template of cardboard or thin
tin
be found
to
should be
of polished oak
;
with the
try our
now
slipped
well,
we
will
now
hands
at
edging one
of these articles.
the top
and
be bound with copper, this binding, when finished, to be electro plated. The thickness of the top edge of bowl is in., and the copper rim is to be i in. deep outside, and 5 in. inside. Let us then take a strip of copper of the requisite thickness, 1} in.
bottom edges
to
wide,
and cut
it
about j
in.
diameter of bowl.
Now
and
The
next thing
;
on the pattern, and the template being placed close to it, apply with considerable pressure a round-nose burnisher at the places where the template indicates the smallest diameter in the enclosed pattern. When the copper tube is roughly shaped, it should be examined as to truth by approaching the template When found to be pretty true, it should to the work. be very carefully finished off, so as to avoid leaving any unsightly marks. It is now finished, and should be taken out of the lathe, and put in a clear fire the pattern is thus carbonized, and can be easily scraped out. The three parts being finished, they should be neatly soldered together, replaced in the lathe, and
;
copper ring on the bowl it should be a tight fit, and should be further secured with a little cement, the edge overlapping the top by $ in.
do
is
to put the
polished.
I
will
now suppose
so
my
instructions,
that
he can spin
by any simple
or
diffi-
The bowl
chucked.
is
placed
true
in the
lathe
and
firmly
article
of lead,
so
I
silver
will finish
by giving an example of a
Now
that the
it.
work
is
will finish
The copper
spun into
soon cure
edge and down the inside, the rough edges are turned The off, and a final polish given with a little rouge. rim is now taken off, and the bottom edge done in the same way. When both are done they are plated, and finally fixed on with small, round-headed screws. Let us now take another example. Suppose we want to put a silver head to a favourite walking-stick,
this
is
is frilled
or buckled.
tool, B, will
happen when the work is of large diameter, or badly supported by the pattern. Figs. 18, 19, and 20 show different ways of holding the work to the pattern when their bearing surfaces
this.
This buckling
will often
the
way
if
to
do
it
proper shape
if
the stick
is
=4=
THE VIOLIN
By
:
it
to the
;
this
but
wanted bigger than the stick itself, a quantity of elastic glue can be stuck on the end, and The disc of thin this when hard turned to shape. sheet silver, which can be obtained from any working jeweller, is now placed at the end, and worked to shape the rough edge is turned off, and it is finally
the
knob
HOW
TO MAKE
IT.
is
EDWARD HEEOy-ALLEN.
HE
first
step to
polished.
making of a
the wood.
I
fiddle is
of
What we have
and straight-forward, where the work is finished in a few strokes, and the pattern is easily followed.
Fig.
1
we
shall
have already pointed out the advisability of keeping woods stored in certain dimensions, it will therefore be simply a matter of search and taste to select a "set
of
attempt, this being a subject totally unlike the previous For facilitating the work, we will divide it into ones.
three parts the foot,
wood
(i.e.,
to b
the stick,
Btoc; and
sides, and a wedge for the belly), handsomely figured and acoustically good. Having
six strips for the
From
the instructions
decided
this,
we proceed
to "
making
part
is
The most
first
difficult
is,
The
thing to do
of
woods and
tools,
IT.
3*3
cut eight strips of linen {twt
wood
too small.
Now
by
come about when an amateur is working strip of wood ^th of an inch thick. Before proceeding further, let me give a word of
which
mill
with a brittle
both sides of one end of each piece thus cut, about i\ inches down, and folding the strips of linen in the middle, cover one end of each strip with linen, so as
to protect the
edge
warning about the selection of these strips. It is this beware of extra-handsome wood that with the finest
: ;
must thus be covered at both ends for the others, one end will be sufficient. The reason of this operation will
and boldest curls is excessively difficult to work with, chipping away under the knife, plane, and scraper to
The
work is
an alarming degree and, worse than all this, when the finished, and your sides are set, and your fiddle
;
varnished,
surface
handsome wood will often take the wavy shown in the section, Fig. 23, a phenomenon
be
fixed, that
it.
;
they will
into
First
thoroughly heat
it
your
bending-iron
(Fig. 4)
on to the bench
The
may now set to work. Take an ordinary clamp, as at by means of it, and a small piece
fasten the strip to the
Fig.
(p. 231),
and
of protecting wood,
broad part and end, A, B, opposite to it, and proceed to this most ticklish part of your work with a cool head. The iron, when you commence to bend, must only be just hot enough very slightly to singe a slip of
over the edge
sit
down
bench
against
it
bend
very finely
over
First,
it
remove the exsmooth it throughout its entire length with a scraper, and the first operation is finished. Above all things, be most
toothed,
bend the C's, or inner bouts, beginning at the two ends covered with linen, set the end on the part
B of the iron, holding
it
very smallest possible, for, in addition to the thinness of the wood you are working with, the wood is in itself
same time applying very gentle pressure It will not begin to bend till it is to the other end. thoroughly hot through, so do not hurry it by heavy
wood,
at the
pressure, or
it
will
split
(the tyro
it
generally splits
similarly, then
brittle of all to
work
with,
and the
brittle
it
Bend
handsomer the
is.
curls in the
round
give
it
B,
The
of the curls
incline
that
is, if
towards the
right, the
After
it
it
well to bring
back for the next sweep, or, catching the edge, it will snap the wood. Mind and let neither of these processes go too far mind and not thin your strip too much, for remember that this is by no means the final smoothing, and if worked too thin at the commencement of the work, the after results will be disastrous therefore leave the strip rather rough than otherwise. Then take three of the strips thus prepared, and with a pencil draw lines across them, as follows: Across two of them, at a distance of 5-J- inches from one end, and across the third, at a distance of 7J inches from one end. Then, with a firm stroke of a small fine knife, cut the strips across at those lines, and it will be found that you have two pieces 7 long for the upper bouts, two pieces 5^ long for the centre bouts, and two pieces 9j long for the lower bouts. These lengths are in excess of what is absolutely necessary but it
; ;
J;
Fig. 24 shows the various stages of the bending of the centre bouts. The linen is, of course, understood to be there, though it does not appear in the figure. The upper and lower bouts must now be similarly bent, though, of course, it will be appreciated that only the linen-covered ends (which join the cornerblocks) will require the decided bend given by the part B of the iron. Fig. 25 shows the successive stages of the bending of the upper and lower bouts, which
are, of course similar, except in point of actual size.
This done, you must carefully remove with a sharp from the ends. The heat of the iron having scorched the glue, this will be
a comparatively easy operation, but in places the
still
linen will
most
careful not to
pieces of the
curls of the
The
is
and linen must be finally scraped away with a file, which should be flat on one side and round on the other (Fig. 5), after which you may proceed finally to This is done as fit and fix your sides into the mould.
3i4
follows
:
THE
VIOLIN:
Begin with the lower bouts, taking your leaf 8, and fit the top end as nearly as possible to the bend of the corner o, markof maple, bent as at D, Fig.
it
ing
and
ceed to bend
hot iron
it
when
extends, cramps
it
1, being most careful and extends to the end Then at the point where the line; A of the corner O. (part of the line A B) exactly bisects the bottom curve
bend
fits
exactly,
of the mould,
mark
square with a sharp knife then proceed exactly in the same manner with the left hand
it
and cut
off exactly
lower bout
I,
fitting
it
to the corner P,
and cramping
Sup., Part
it
(1,
17).
Cut
it
same
and perfect joint is formed, as close as that of the back and belly. This must most particularly be aimed at, as a perfect joint at the bottom is a sign of good workmanship but if by some mishap you do not get a good join, do
fectly square,
so that a complete
mould {i.e., so that the A on the block exactly coincides with the line A
{Sup., Part 17),
Cut, shape,
and
fix
not start fresh with another strip for a new lower bout,
unless your
material,
of the fiddle in
an exactly similar block at the top the same way. After each of these
time,
haustible, for a
after
bad
be shown, with a strip of purfling thus adding an ornamentation ex necessitate rei. Guarnerius constantly did this, and even the great Stradivari did not
his
and with a little hot water out of the glue-pot, wash away frcm your work Now proceed to fix the all traces of superfluous glue.
operations, take a fine brush,
make use of this happy expedient when masterhand failed him at this most critical point. Next proceed with the upper bouts, working in exactly the same way from the corners, Q and R, clamping with the blocks L and M {Sup., Part 17) respectively, you need not be particular to a quarter of an inch for the joint of these upper bouts (on the line b) for the neck
disdain to
will will
also be cut to a
upper
it
You
manner shown in Fig. 27, which is drawn the actual size of the mould (Sup., Part When you have got them thus to fit, and cleaned 17). and scraped them thoroughly inside and out, cover the bevel of the ends of the C's with glue, slip them in
ends of the lower bouts,
the
so that the glued ends fit against the lower bouts in the corners, as in Fig. 27, and cramp them in with the cramping-blocks, J and K (Sup., Part 17). Now take a
fine slip
have to place cramps at the points O, P, Q, and R, to keep the ends of the sides into the corners O, P, Q, R, placing little slips of wood between the iron arm of the cramp and the wood of the bouts, to protect the latter from being bruised or dented by the pressure, unless of course you mean to proceed at once with the work, in which case these last cramps will not be required. Now finally set the lower bouts to shape and cramp them into the mould, seeing that they are thoroughly freed from all vestige of glue or other mess. When fixed, there must be a slight rim above and below the mould, caused by the superfluous breadth of the slips from which you have made
your sides.
of
it
run
it
move
Bear in mind throughout the operations of setting the sides and blocks, to leave a little rim of wood above and below the edge of the mould, to be shaved away
when
*
bevelling the
sides
to
the diameter of
the
Some makers (Stradivari amongst them) frequently used sallow wood for the blocks and linings, as being lighter than There is hardly, if any, difference between them, and the deal.
mode
Vol.
I.
Now
take
some
slips of paper,
about ij
of working
is
the same.
Vide on
IT.
35
mould they will be found to be too shallow when you come to fix on the back and belly. The next operation is the cutting and fixing of the corner blocks. Take two square-sided pillars of wood 2 in. long, the one for the lower comers having the ends 1 in. by I, the other for the upper corners having the ends f by i. This length is just double what is required, and for this reason, that the corners being
almost always in contra-facsimile, they
these should be cut into long slips, Ts5 inch broad and -^ thick and of these slips you will require for one
;
fiddle four
g-h
55 inches long (for the inner bouts), and four 7 J inches long (for the upper bouts). To guard against acci-
have three or four extra slips, to may snap in the bending. Before commencing to bend them, having cut them
dents,
it is
well to
all
in excess of
may be
cut to
what
is
required), let
them soak
for at least
an hour
in cold water.
fierce heat,
which
will
be a great saving
in point of time
and
Now, having heated your iron to a bend them to the shapes they are required
and with
decision,
in
work.
the square in
A
FIG.
STAGES
FIG. 25.
FIG.
29.
DIA-
J
;
FIG. 25.
STAGES OF
BEND
LOWER
GRAM
SHOWING
FIG. 28.
METHOD
;
OF FIXING
;
MODE OF BEVELLING
B, Lining.
E,
Linings
C,
CORNER BLOCKS. Plan of Lower Corner Blocks. D, D', Plan of Upper Corner Blocks.
FIG. 27.
C,
FIG. 30.
TOP AND
is
Full
size.
the manner shown in Fig. 27, the dotted lines showing the two sides before they are cut away with the gouge.
bend which
against the
]
rest
flat
iron
The greatest
make them
fit
perI
(a, Fig. 4)
long enough to be well heated through beto bend, but not so as to scorch
it
fore
commencing
fitted
too
much
(a
little
scorching
will
The lower
corner blocks
Fig.
linings).
first pillar,
By
firm,
this
When
glued, they
must be strongly pressed into the corners, both outwards and upwards, so as to fix them closely to both the upper (or lower) and centre bout (or C). When this is done, and the blocks are firmly cramped into their places, the superfluous glue must be washed off with a brush and hot water, and the whole mould put away to dry thoroughly. Whilst it is drying, you may
proceed to prepare your side-linings
;
there
but
little
Where it may
be
away with the flat side of a file but for the and when there is a good deal of the sides to file away, you must use the toothed plane. Before commencing to plane the blocks, the tops and bottoms must be well wetted with warm water, which will prefiled
blocks,
the
wood
for
!i6
THE
VIOLIN:
HOW TO MAKE
to
IT.
an infinitesimal degree. If there is much of the block to be cut away, you may begin to remove it with a knife, finishing up with the plane. If the operation of wetting the tops of the blocks has loosened the glue by which
the sides are fixed (with papers) to the mould, you
must secure the block with a cramp before reducing it. Throughout this operation you must not reduce either
the sides or the blocks quite to the level of the surface of the mould.
and the cramping blocks. same manner, and next glue and fix the linings of the upper and lower bouts, which are done in the same way, excepting that if the lengths have been properly proportioned so as to fit tightly no cramping blocks will be necessary, the superfluous glue being washed away at once and the mould set to dry. If, however, you distrust your cutting, you may cramp your linings to the sides in the same way as you cramped the
Fix the other
linings in the
sides to
bouts,
the
mould, interposing, as
slips
and the
manner First cut out the little slit as at G, Fig. 28, by making two deep cuts with the knife, and removing the wood between them with the "lining" chisel (Fig. 7). Take great care not to make
following
:
cramping blocks.
When
When
a
this
done, take a
linings
deep or too wide, testing it in these respects as you cut it by means of a waste slip of When this is achieved, cut off the end of the lining. lining with a cut slanting from the top, as in Fig. 29, which shows the section of the lining A fitted into the
this cutting too
sharp
to
and
bevelling off
more than
Fig.
31
;
half
B,
when
paper,
block
B.
Now
in the
same way
it
end
in
and
file, removing any which may be sticking to the linings not removed by the knife. Next shape the
of the lining,
and
set
in a similar cutting
it
made
F,
Fig. 28.
till
The
corner
thus
till
the other
Cut and fit the linings of the upper and lower bouts in a similar manner against the corner and top and bottom blocks, as at F, Fig. 28. They
are not
let into
shape
all
Vol.
I.),
away
page
The
down
in
and shape of
the ends of
The ends
make them
If
blocks.
linings
may
be
rectified
by inserting between them and the block a little splinter wedge of pine to supply the deficiency. Having fitted both the upper and lower linings all round, the next operation is the gluing and fixing. This must be done very quickly, especially if the weather is at all cold, or the glue will worry you by cooling as you work. Begin as before with the C's, or inner bouts, and be careful before beginning that all embracing surfaces (i.e., the surfaces of the sides and of the linings which are to be glued against them) are perfectly cleaned with a file and scraper. Take a waste slip of lining and thin the sides at one dip this in the glue, and with it end to a wedge
;
mould (Sup., Part 17). If there is any difference between the top and bottom blocks, the top one will be just a shade smaller than the other. The Guarnerius block is more a segment of a circle, but as the mould (Sup., Part 17) is Stradivarius,T give a Stradivarian block (Fig. 29). The greatest care must be taken in cutting both the corner and end blocks quite
the blocks for the
parallel with the sides,
i.e.,
They must be Which the whole of the inside, i.e., the sides, the linings, and the blocks must be thoroughly -sand-papered and cleaned, after which the inside -of the mould will present the appearance of
top and bottom.
after
file,
I.
The
next operation
is
You
will
ber that the ribs are fixed into the mould with
glued paper, these must
ing manner.
now be
little
slits
in
both
table-knife with
carefully through
and set it in its place, pressing and against the sides glue and set the lower lining in the same way, and before the glue has time to set, wash away the superfluous glue and cramp the linings to the sides by means of the cramping blocks, J and K.(Sup., Part 17), placing a slip
firmly into the slits
;
C with glue
between the sides and the mould at the points where the paper is fixed, passing it along wherever the paper extends. This operation will be accompanied by a series of the most ominous cracking sounds, which are, however, merely false alarms, though you must carefully guard against shaving or splitting off little
BOOKBINDING FOR AMATEURS.
snips of the sides as you pass the knife along.
3i7
Having
all
poke the ribs through and out of the mould, pressing on all the blocks and bouts carefully in succession, having first marked which is
to
and gradually
give very good results, and colour shops for a few pence, and,
if
kept
in
Now
proto
ceed to cleaning the outsides and generally finishing Begin by removing by means of hot water and a brush any vestiges of the papers which remain
glued at the points where the ribs have been fixed in the mould. Do not be too liberal with the water,
be the fraction of a farlhing. any of the dyes, mix with water the shade required, place the book in the press to
to
To
sprinkle, take
hold
it,
take a
common
it
in the colour
it
thick blotches),
colour, or
will fall in
lightly over a
common
cinder
sifter,
holding the
fall
ribs
immediately,
little
or
they will
ward
any
possible
if
must be
(at C,
glued on again.
Fig. 28)
filled
is
corners
spray on the edge. be used with very pleasing effects, but each colour must have a brush, and each colour should dry on the edge before another is sprinkled, or they will run one into the other. If a further or more
colour will
in
a very fine
Several colours
may
to
must be be hoped
fanciful decoration
is
that this
corners must
(as at C,
now be
be required. The ends of the cut flat and square to the sides
of a knife
up rather tightly, place some rice, or seed of any kind, or breadcrumbs, on the edge now
press,
pinch
it
sprinkle
when
;
dry,
testing
careful
and flat file, the work with the small square, and being very not to chip off the edges in cutting away the
Fig. 28) inside
by means
the
some more seed, or whatever has been used, on the edge, and sprinkle very dark with brown when dry, take the book out of the press, knock off the seed or rice, and the result will be an edge very much like marble in fact, better than a good many marbles
place
now be
glue
all
cleared
of all traces of
burning
file, and any vestiges of round the outside of the ribs must be removed with a flat chisel, after which go carefully and completely round the entire outsides with a sharp scraper
To
book
tint,
place the
and fine glass paper, till they are perfectly clean and smooth as satin. The sides or ribs of your fiddle are now finished, and you must put them away into the mould (into which they will now slip quite easily), out
you are ready for them. For must mark which is the top (or belly side) of the ribs, and which is the bottom write, therefore, " top " on the top of the blocks, so that when you take them out of the mould there may be no confusion on this point. {To be continued)
till
of harm's way,
between cutting-boards, screw up tightly, with a sponge dipped in any of the abovementioned colours go over the edge carefully. It will, perhaps, be better if the edges are scraped before the colour is put on. To do this, take a piece of steel, grind it on its edge, and rub it well en an oil-stone. Holding the scraper between the two first fingers and thumbs, the edges are scraped when done properly the edge should feel as smooth as a piece of glass. By scraping the edges, the colour put on the edge is
in the press
;
more even. When dry, burnish. Marble Edges. I had written the process out, but have come to the conclusion that it is too much for the amateur to attempt with good results. There are a number of book-edge marblers in the trade, and the amateur binder had better let them marble his books
A-.:'.or
rf ' The
AH ofBooUindivg"
HE next thing
edges
if it is is
worth paying, if only to get rid of the mess marbling occasions. Messrs. Corfield, of St. Bride Street, E.C., Messrs. Eadie, Queen Street, W.C., or Gwynn, of West Street,
it is
done
sum
that
it is
to
be done
St. Martin's
to decorate
be mentioned.
according to
Gilding.
of gilding.
Lane, are three amongst many that may The price is from twopence per book
wished to leave them white white edges have, however, the disadvantage of
size.
When
be burnished.
is
that
becoming very
dirty, so that
it
is
advissort.
some
external injury
and damp.
The necessary
materials
quickest
for the
method
is
to sprinkle,
are
amateur
1st.
gold
313
on.
may
material dealers, or
dry,
dry,
which
will take
it.
some two
or three hours
when
burnish
To
of wood, say 12 inches by 6 inches, with a piece of white calf, the rough side outwards, and padded with
blotting-paper or cloth, cut so that
at the edge, but quite flat
it
will
on the
form a bevel be
in
of beeswax on the palm of the hand, now rub the hand over the edge, hold the burnisher firmly in the right hand, resting the end of the handle on the
Work
the burnisher
neatly nailed
If
backwards and forwards with a perfectly even pressure on every part. To gild the fore-edge, make it perfectly
flat in
its
the
same manner
as in cutting
(it
will return to
proper shape again when released from the press), and proceed as above. Edges can be gilt at a very
the material-
Head-banding.
it
Head-banding
is.
not a necessity
It
finish.
can be
bought
KNIFE.
in,
upwards, according
;
to
so
much
the
better.
2.
gold knife, price from one shilling. with the gold cushion.
Also
shown
3.
in Fig. 30,
Burnishers.
size.
purchased any
sufficient.
4.
Are made of agate stone, can be A flat and a round one will be
This
is
it
Glaire
water.
Take
allow
well
together,
numbered the and 3. Should the amateur wish to make his own, he can do so by using striped calico. The material must be cut into lengths of about one and a half inches wide, with the stripes across. Cords of different thickness are cut somewhat longer than the calico. Fasten one of the pieces of cord at one end by a nail on a board of sufficient length. Paste the calico, and lay it down on the board under the cord now turn the calico round or over the cord, and with a folder rub into a groove. To stick the
different sizes are
2
The
to stand
some hours
to settle, then
pour the
Scrapers.
As above mentioned.
The beauty
and even
Gold
leaf.
Bought
leaf;
in books.
it
Do
common
price,
rubbish because
To
press,
cheap; pay a proper if not gold, it will soon turn all your work for nothing. book should be put into the level with the cheeks of the
is
between cutting-boards, the boards of the book The book should be screwed up very tightly, and the edge scraped quite flat, and perbeing thrown back.
fectly even.
water
A mixture of black-lead and thin glaire painted over the edge with a soft brush, and with a hard brush it is well brushed until dry. Lift a
is
FIG. 31.
MODE
knife, lay
on the gold cushion, breathe gently on the centre of it flat it can then be cut with perfect ease to any size. The edge is now to be glaired evenly
the leaf to lay
;
head-band on, glue the head and tail of the book, place the head-band on the back, the thick part (where the
cord
that
is)
it
off
down
by means of a
paper, grease
lay
soft brush.
it
Take a
it
piece of writingit
sticks properly.
is
by drawing
to prepare the
the
now
better
make
if
his
it
will at
once come
tight back,
make a
attempt
to get perfectly
better
he were
to
3i9
is
Place the cover, 31. grain side down, on a piece of marble or thick glass, and with the knife, which must be made very sharp,
inch from the edge, the object being that the leather loses itself, and that the edge is not seen when covered. Care must be taken that
dependent of the back. Place the book in the press, exposing the back, glue the whole of the back with good hot glue now take a piece of strong paper, such
;
place
it
folding-stick, allow
when
sides,
dry,
peal or tear
head
the knife does not go through the leather, as it will do if held at too great an angle. When pared, the cover is pasted all over, allowed to soak a bit and repasted.
second paper may be added, treating the second paper in the same manner.
tail.
and
to to see that they are round, and the book laid on the cover caretightly.
be fastened on the back if it is desired to have any. Mark the back into six equal divisions, allowing the bottom space to be larger than the rest ; if the same size, the book is
or ribs
if it has a broad Glue some thick string, place it across the back on the marks made, allowing it to project a little
The bands
may now
The edges must be turned in all round, using a foldingstick to lay it down evenly round the edge of the
If the book has had bands put on the back, they should in some way be pinched up to make the leather adhere properly. In binding establishments,
boards.
back.
if
the amateur
if
the book
is
now
laid
down on
its
same
will
in it the the bands, by pressing the band into the groove and working the wood to and fro, the result
back better than if left to dry with nothing to hold the ends down. Too much glue must not be put on the cords, or if calf is used for covering, the glue may possibly go through and stain it, but this need only be feared with calf for other leathers, it is best to glue the back, and then stick the cord on,
will stick to the
;
as
it
better.
When
must be cut
off
The best of
morocco,
but
it is
it
be the same as with the pincers, the only drawback being that the bands should fit the grooves, so that two or three pieces of different sized grooves are necessary. These are called "band-sticks;" they must be perfectly smooth, or will rough the leather wood of close grain is the best to make them from. Bands are only used to russia, morocco, calf, and sometimes roan cloth, buckram, and other such-like material, are not suitable, as they do not stretch enough for bands.
;
all
is
is
dearer than
anything
size
else,
The
and quality
but as a good
many
dealers sell
When dry, the book should be opened, or eased, by throwing the boards back, wetting the leather turned in head and tail with a moist sponge or wet finger, and allowing it to dry with the boards opened. This will give the book much more freedom in the
joints than
is usually seen in amateur bindings. Half-bindings should have the corners put on
;
be bought for a small sum. It will be advisable if I enumerate the various kinds sold. First, we have morocco of all kinds from 7s'., up to 18s. and ,1 per skin russia, on an average 40s. per hide calf from 5s. 6d. per skin roans used for imitation morocco, from 4s. per skin cloth from 6\<L per yard buckram from is. 4d. per yard vellum, parchment, velvet, silk, satin, and others, may be mentioned. To cut a cover out, if for whole
; ; ;
; ;
when
and, let
me
until at least twelve hours have be thoroughly dried, or it will get out of shape. The corners should be cut out large, to allow for turning in ; they should be pared all
may
down with
the
when
binding, the cover should be about half-inch (or more according to the size of the book) larger than the
leather
book
itself,
if
for
book itself,
looks
same colour as the same as the ends are made but this has to do with taste more than by rule. Glue should be used for siding, and
or paper being used,
is
cloth, the
;
generally chosen
;
if
paper, the
and allow
ing
in
much
as
is
wished, bear-
mind
that
narrow
side
in
always
niggardly; the
corners should be
proportion to
down with
Pasting
the
320
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
wood, as
is
With a sharp knife run round the inside boards, trimming off any unevenness that may be tear the guard paper away, and clean away any glue or paper that is on or in the joint. With good paste, paste all over and evenly the end-paper, taking great care that
;
paste is in the joint hold the paper up with the left hand, with the right press it gently into the groove, and rub lightly the paper down all over the board with a very sharp knife trim the paper evenly all
;
;
in which the decorative effect depends on the use of material in a rough and natural state. This definition will embrace a wide range of objects, such as summer-houses, cottage porches, garden arches, fences, garden seats, and many similar matters. For so many of these as space will permit I propose
character,
and
as
may
all over,
especially
tect the
Allow
it
to
But before I proceed to do so, I shall have some remarks to make on the appropriateness and durability of the materials employed and as I have had more than thirty years' experience in this kind of work, I can do so with some degree of confidence.
;
standing up on end
This
with
is
much
better
down
way for the amateur than " shut," as the book opens
perfectly dry, the
Materials. It is to our more common woods of home growth, such as are cheap and abundant, that we shall have to look for materials. As a rule, wood for rustic work is most pleasing to the eye when
more freedom.
When
book
covered with
in that state.
its
bark,
it
should be pressed
with not
is
too
much
pressure
for
Yet
a few hours, using a tin inside the boards, and a millboard covered with flannel for the outside ; when
pressed, the
gilding,
to retain
book
will
which
ready for " finishing," that is the form the subject of my next paper.
be continued?)
lasts twice as
(7o
it is
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
By
in
adhere closely, the wood should be cut down winter, after the sap has fallen, and before it begins
ARTHUR TOEKE.
to rise again.
But
if
peeling
is
is
intended, the
wood
that
SUMMER-
is,
ERHAPS among the many subjects treated in Amateur Work none is calculated
to appeal to a wider public than that with
modest amount of taste for carpentry will, I trust, find something to their advantage in my remarks and sketches. For rustic work no nice skill and no elaborate kit of tools are required. In this department rough workmanship is no defect, and is, indeed, frequently an aid
in
deal.
All
who
most
young leaves begin to appear. of wood, none are of so much value in rustic work as larch-poles. Their straight and regular growth admirably fit them for constructive purposes, and cause them to be easy of adaptation to regular designs. For the heavier work in summerhouses, arches, fences, etc., they are unrivalled. Larch
just as the
Of all kinds
has also extraordinary powers of endurance. Among our common native woods it stands second only in
this respect to heart of oak.
abound
in
Larch plantations now most parts of the country, and when these
effect.
The
in
causes which
in
rustic carpentry
can generally get a supply at a cheap rate. Various other trees of the same family, such as the
silver
fir,
common
the
fir,
They have
in his
work.
On
the
first
useful hints
and last points I shall hope to give some and as regards the second, to furnish a
common
ing, built
is
fir
usually
assigned to
number
of designs which
in this
summer-house is at present standby me in 185 1, in which all the heavier work wood. The collar-posts do not rest on any
as furnishing suggestions.
The
Under
include
all
a wet clay.
may be
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
Those larch and other fir poles are best which grow in thick plantations but few lateral branches are then thrown out, and the trunk tapers almost imperceptibly. The branches of such poles are few and worthless, but where the trees grow in more open situations, the branches afford straight and valuable
;
321
will
be found
to
useful.
Their
suffi-
them highly
be found
ciently straight.
They
value
rustic
work
in
which
little
and their market merely that of firewood. Sticks also of maple and wych-elm, of the same size (one to two inches in diameter), are useful for
clearings of undergrowth in woods,
is
somewhat
ened bark
cork tree
similar purposes.
technically known
have
renders them pretty. In many parts of the country they grow plentifully as " stools " in hedges,
and are
are cut.
to
a piece of oak-bangle in any way approaching to straightness is exceptional, and as a rule they are
twisted,
trifling
crooked, and
contorted
in very
in
all
directions.
value.
The
They
effect
a space can be
be that of carriage
and some
little
trouble
must be
much
at
exercised in looking out for and securing them, as they are not always to be bought from dealers.
turesque appearance.
these qualities
contrast with
tell
my own
opinion, however,
into
ment
to
Construction of Summer-houses. Since its employin building and decorating summer-houses is one
rustic
more formal
a panel of which
Being
all
or
which
it
is
with these
nearly
all sap,
structures that
shall begin.
Elm
branches
may be
exceedvulgar
In most instances the choice of a site for a summerhouse must chiefly depend on the special circumstances of the case, and the individual taste of the
builder.
is
I
ingly irregular.
In exposed situations
the
may
as
make
such a retreat
is
decorative neither
enjoyable
climate,
nor form.
is
Withy
in
many
to
districts
As an
by
a
little
available of woods.
Though
beauty
it
trees or evergreens,
pleasing to look
at,
and by
and endurance
branches of the
scale.
it
kinds,
is
judicious forethought
work on a moderate
white colour
will
render
pleasing,
by
contrast,
when
used in combination with other woods wearing their dark barks. I have already noticed how much the above treatment tends to preserve it. For employment in irregular grotesque work, in
the
from the windows. posed as to hide what is ugly, such as back-offices, or an unsightly wall or building. Figs. 1 and 2 show front and profile views of a summer-house intended for a garden of the most modest size, and Fig. 3 gives the ground plan of the same. The dimensions of this summer-house are
length, 8 feet
;
same manner
as
oak-bangles, apple-tree
wood
breadth, 4 feet
and height
it is
to eaves,
forms a useful material ; m and special attention is directed to it, as it is one frequently to be had for nothing. In most gardens it is occasionally necessary The tree so removed is to cut down an apple tree.
usually at once
well
first
feet.
usual
first to
conthis
But
condemned
to the fire.
It
would be
cannot well be done without calling in skilled labour, and for our purposes may be dispensed with.
We
to
make
it is
proper for
in the
rustic
work.
enduring than those of oak, and equally fantastic particularly when, as is often the case, the surface rises into grotesque knots and excrescences.
exposed
will,
undoubtedly be more have shown above, they if of good material, endure as long as any reasontreated, they will
;
Thus
to
decay
but, as I
For some minor purposes, especially when they can be used under cover, as in the interiors of
And
tions
here
I I
which
may as well explain that in the direcam about to give I shall advocate a
322
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
S^SB"
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bfl
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O E
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w
rt
P"d
in
S S |
d
^ o H ^
bo .s
c
rn
nl
^3
a5
"d
o ^
3 & a
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
The
in
.323
cross-pieces (b,b,b,b
4)
quisite
quantity
split
by
Fig.
by which the
that machine.
It
is
of such half-stuff
walls
that the
are to be
posts,
5
the
formed.
poles
For the
of 4i
inches or
at the corners as
shown
in
is
Fig.
5.
When
the rafter
pieces
and
A
in
on.
is
may
serve to
be nailed crosswise at top and bottom immediately below the wall-plates and ground-line. the above These must be on the inside,
FIG. S-
hold
place
the
till
cross-pieces
the rafter
is
The
their
top
of the post
flat
may come
centres
merely sawn
to receive
upright
FIG.
FIG.
7.
END OF RAFTER.
posts.
these pieces.
posts,
The
all
A little atten-
cross-pieces,
tion
and indeed
large
this
the
in
stuff
used
pieces or ledgers, as
building,
are
FIC.
shown
4. CONSTRUCTION OF ROOF OF SMALL SUMMER-HOUSE.
in Fig. 6, will
supposed to be larch poles. As will be seen from the diagrams, a great proportion of
this material, before
do
this
;
with exact-
ness
being used,
to
will
have
be sawn in half. Sawing such pieces with a hand saw is slow work and if a steam saw is within
;
among
round,,
stuff, it
or half-round
reach,
will
the
labour
pearance
will
much
the
ed,
depend
upon
diagonal sawing
by
GROUND-PLAN
OF SMALL SUMMER-HOUSE.
ferent pieces,
so as
324
best to
This
in
larch,
will,
as
shown
for
the
facilities
nailing,
Between the horizontal and sloping pieces of which form the pediment, the space is filled with open work of small oak or apple branches. The eccentric curves and twistings of these sticks contrast
effectively with the straight lines
art, almost the only method Against these two ledgers the uprights which form the walls are to be nailed, with Their upper ends are their sawn surfaces inwards.
which
is,
in
our rough
around them.
of forming joints.
A finish
is
sloped
let into
off,
so as to
fit
and
to
be
in
The
its
as
shown
in Fig.
I,
lower part
as
made
The
may
opposite to the junction of two outer ones, so as best The lining of the upper portions to exclude wind.
is of smaller half-stuff, arranged, as shown, diagonally for the purposes of ornamentation.
by the addition of rustic capitals. These are formed by nailing four sticks of large, quartered wood, round the pillars at top, and four strips of smaller halved wood round the bottom of the cap, and fixing fircones between them with brads. We have now a tolerably exact description of the wood-work of this summer-house. Some other matters such as the are still wanting to its completion thatching and lining of its roof, forming its floor, and making its walls proof against wind. But these
;
In Fig.
4,
is illustrated.
processes will be better treated further on, after we have considered our designs for other summer-houses on a somewhat larger scale. (To be continued.)
From
The seen to extend backwards some 18 inches. motive for introducing this feature, instead of allowing the rafters at once to slope backwards from the pediment, which might have seemed the simpler arrangement, lies in the necessity for keeping the finishingpoint of the thatch, with which
the roof
is
it
Otherwise
to be would
HE
number
me,
of this
work
be impossible to give that projection of the eaves over the pediment best shown in Fig. 2 which is most valuable, as affording shelter to the wood-work in
when
reading,
of
to
think
that
slight specializing
them
for the
use
that part,
and indeed
summer-
be altogether
house generally. Fig. 7 shows the manner in which the ends of the and after these have been rafters are to be sawn Any fixed, laths will have to be nailed across them. rough rods, if tolerably straight, and about an inch and half thick, will do. They should be placed some and a rather thicker one should be 5 inches apart fixed at the bottom ends of the rafters, to support and
; ;
unacceptable.
I
do not
for
will
attempt to
moment make a
difficult
expect that
stop of
the
more
experience in the
Yet, taking
I
my own
experience
About 16 or
17 inches
will
be
can assure them, save much outlay of capital and waste of time by being able to handle the soldering iron. Though I myself never made but one complete metal stop, and fairly " gave
in " after commencing a " Double Open " in zinc, I have repaired some thousands of pipes, and saved at least 75 per cent, on each of them compared with the price tinsmiths charge (and not unreasonably) for such " odd jobs." Some knowledge of the art of soldering is indispensable to the amateur organ-builder and, indeed, it is also highly desirable for all who have the care of an organ. Organ pipes are supposed to be made of variously
;
found a good height for the seat. The method by which it is supported is shown in the illustration, It should be made of an inch board, about Fig. 1. 16 inches wide. As shown, it is covered and concealed by
brads.
split rods, fixed closely side by side with These should be small and smooth, as of
simply placed in parallel lines a more decorative arrangement might be adopted but of this kind of work I shall have to speak more fully farther on. To hide the ends of these rods, as well as the edge of the board, a long split rod is finally nailed along the whole
proportioned compounds of tin and lead, but type metal, antimony, and arsenic enter largely into the
HO W I BUILT MY FIRST
Commencing,
be
therefore, with the general caution to
COIL.
325
by using the iron too hot for the particular composition to be dealt with, I will at once proceed with the modus operandi.
careful not to melt the pipe in holes
First,
hot will
we
will
is
desired to
pieces
to
be
joined
for
about
an
inch from their edges with a solution of glue and whiting (washed whiting a pennyworth from any druggist will last a long time) do not put it on too
thick or
it
will
when
dry.
round the lip of the body, and a very solid joint will be effected. If the block were cold, the solder would chill as fast as put on, and if it did happen to bind the two parts together, it would only be by its getting a hold in any irregularities the surfaces might present, much as "stopping" in a hollow tooth, not by having incorporated itself with both parts in one continuous mass, as is the case with all real soldering. Exactly the
cause the solder to run or float
When
quite dry
in the
may be
dis-
of a chisel or a knife.
tile or hard brick, rub the clean edges of the metal with a piece of com-
be desired to make a zinc pipe, or to lengthen one out, the zinc must first be softened " over a fire of shavings (not coal) till all the " spring
is
mon composite candle. This flux is worth all the chemicals imaginable, with all their unpronounceable names it will solder almost any metal. Now tack
;
taken out, and it crackles when bent. Organ-builders generally use iron soldering
bit
bits,
more handy
the joint with little drops of solder at intervals, and slowly draw the joint, letting the iron barely (if at all) touch the surface of the metal. The joint is now
finished, and unless a hole has been burnt, or other mishap has occurred, there is no need to go over it with the file, which is at best but a " tinker's finish." The joints in organ pipes do not overlap, but the edges are brought one against the other, and the solder run in the bevel groove between them. When pipes are of really good metal, clippings from themselves will make the solder. I have for years exclusively used pipes from Henri Zimmermann,
HOW
HE next part to be
It is
considered
is
the base.
of Paris (by the way, his first-quality metal pipes, to which I allude, are cheaper than the same pipes in ordinary metal from
clippings
of or inch mahogany, and is 4 inches wide by 6 inches long ; it is nicely planed, sand-papered, and polished
;
made
and,
if
possible, should
have a
all
English houses). One or two small pipes of these melted down, or rather, the
many
when
cutting
down
to tune,
have kept
me
in
round it. The hammer, or contact-breaker, will next engage our attention it may consist either of a piece of sheet brass ii inch long by inch, tapering up to
;
One
is
mean
the repair-
to give
Reed pipes being very weak at the point where they join the block, have an ugly proclivity for snapSuppose we have one broken off close to the block, the following is the way to proceed in repairing it. First remove the wire, reed, tongue, and wedge, and put them carefully aside. Next place the block upside down on an iron fire shovel on the fire to melt out the old solder in it. Cool the block and clean the cavity where the tube fits it. Heat it again very hot and place it in a vice or tablescrew, hold the tube in its normal position (having previously sized its extremity as before directed, and filed the tip bright). Now run so!der all round into the countersunk cavity of the block, using a hatchet-shaped soldering iron,
ping off there.
it a spring, or a piece of the mainspring of a watch about inch wide and i long. To the small end of this spring is soldered a piece of soft iron,
f
as
shown
in Fig.
5.
of a nail such as
is
good
about J substitute
inch thick,
is
filed to about inch in thickness. Your'platinum foil will now be required. Cut oft a small bit about a i inch square, and solder it to the back of the spring about } inch from where it joins the iron. You will notice that the iron is on the front
and
as
it is
Great care must be taken in soldering on the First put a little powdered resin so thin.
lift
on the place,
bolt,
and spread
is
3 z6
to be.
it
on the place
bolt,
Now bore
to
and gently
when
it
a hole through the base at C in Fig. admit the wire tightly, put it in and push
7,
it
so as
down
should be firmly soldered to the brass. Perhaps it would be better to get a tinsmith to do this little job for you, if you know one. You must now take a piece
of stout
The
point C
is
in
with the end of the coil and about iA inch distant from
the core, just about the edge of the base.
sheet brass,
Take the
it
J
fig.
in
and bend
as
. , A
it
4. hammer or contact,
BREAKER.
at right angles,
in
_. Fig.
and move
it
until
6,
so that
,,
will
be I inch long and E \ inch long. About \ inch from the top of A a hole is drilled and threaded so as I may remark to admit of a screw working in it. here that you can procure contact-breakers complete, tipped with platinum, and far better than you could make them, from any electrician Messrs. H. and E. J. Dale supply them from 4s., but this would add to the expense. A common screw will not do here a good substitute will be found in the screws that hold on gas and lamp glasses, and the part in which the screw works can be used when soldered to the brass strip A over the hole above-mentioned this will save you the
;
Then take
labour of getting a thread in the brass, it is also A hole is also bored through the part B to firmer.
be screwed to the base. Now take the screw I mentioned as working in A, and drill a small hole in the point of it, to admit the end of the platinum wire. Now put in the end of your wire, carefully
allow
it
to
it, and screw it on to the base with a round-headed screw about f inch long, in such a way as that the platinum point of the screw (when the screw is about half screwed through) will just touch the centre of the platinum foil on the back of the spring, as in Fig. 8, and your coil will be finished except the connections. Of course if you buy a contact-breaker, as I mentioned, the fixing of it will depend on the style. Now turn your coil over so as to make your connections beneath the base, and it will be somewhat as in Fig. 9 A, B, c, D, ends of binding screws E, end of screw by which the back part of spring F, end of rod is screwed to base
the screw in
G and
FIG.
6.
solder
it
to the screw,
and
REGULAT-
about \ inch from the end of screw. will now return to the base (Fig.
Now
7).
from
ING SCREW.
We
You
will
is
size.
hole
bored right through the base about f inch from each corner, and the binding screws screwed into it. The coil is now to be screwed to the base-board, and for this you will require two small brass screws about you can get them. Now inch long, and as thin as
lay your coil on the top of the base-board, about \\ inch from one end and exactly in the middle (longways), mark the places and then remove your coil.
wire
G
;
to binding screw A,
them to the ends of Next solder the end of and of wire H to the end of
rod F
join D and E by a short piece of wire soldering one end to each, and your coil will be complete except the handles and battery. I subjoin a list of prices of wire, etc., which may
be procured from F. E. Becker & Co., 34, Maiden La?ie, Covent Garden, IV. C, who sends following
prices
:
one at each coil rested. You now screw on your to the base, putting in the screws from the bottom of the base-board and
driving
3s.
5 s*
per
lb.
,j
s nk
,,
No. 36 cotton
,,
id.
8s.
silk
foil
12s.
them a short
into
distance
the
reel.
ends
FIG.
S.-HAMMER COMPLETE.
with the primary wire to the fine wire to B. Now bore two holes at each end close to the ends of the coil right through the base, and pass the free ends of your wire down through.
coil
^^
of
the
per dozen.
common
is. 8d.
Messrs. H.
Contact-breakers
Regulating tubes
Cores, ready-made
9d. 6d.
You now take a piece of stout brass [wire, or rod, about i inch thick and 1 inch long, and, with a very fine saw, cut it down through the middle for inch.
The coil will now be complete except the handles. To make them, procure a pair of empty cartridges,
large size, centre
fire,
Now
HO W I BUILT MY FIRST
take a pair of corks that
will
fit
COIL.
same
size.
327
It is
and force them in until they are flush with the end of the cartridge, taking care not to split the paper. Next cut a strip
little
gum
made
of
of inch mahogany, with an ornamental border, and planed and polished as formerly. The bottom
of
tinfoil
longer
ridge,
hollowed out i inch deep by 4! inches long by making a kind of box to receive the condenser.
it is
coat
one
side
it
The
core
is
paper tube
with
gum and
roll
tightly
round the
at
the,'
cart-
wood about i inch long, so tube will slide upon it. The brass
half-inch
end
draw
it
out.
The
it
where you inserted the cork fold this down all round so as to; hide
;
for the
FIG.
7.
hammer
mentioned,
in
BASE OF COIL.
dipped
glue
the cork.
Take a yard of No. 18 or No. 20 wire, and solder one end to the brass part of cartridge, and twist the loose end into a spiral round a ruler to make it take up less room. The other one is made in
same manner. This finishes your coil, put the ends of the wires from your battery into binding screws A and D, Fig. 8, and the ends of your handle wires into B and C. Move your regulating screw c in Fig. 6 until you see a spark pass between it and the platinum of the hammer, and the coil will begin working, buzzing like a swarm of bees.
exactly the
made
and
ly.
of a
number of
The paper
is
cut
in.
4.2 in.
long by 3
FIG.
9.
-CONNECTIONS BENEATH
THE BASE.
[of
grey paper
We will
now proceed
w-ith a regulating tube and condenser. The ends are the same as in the other coil. Take a thin brass tube, such as is used for
by f
strip
inch,
and a
grey
long
inches
it
of thin
2A
paper
wide.
Cut
Now take] a sheet of and twenty-five of tinfoil. paper and lay upon it a sheet of tinfoil, the foil projecting over one end about f inch, then lay on a sheet of grey paper above this, and put a sheet of tinfoil upon it with | inch of it projecting at the opposite end from the first one, as in Fig. io, in which p is paper, T first tinfoil, F second tinfoil. Continue thus putting on the paper and tinfoil alternately, always making the projection at opposite end from the one you did last. So that at one end the tinfoil would run, if numbered, r 3j 5> 7, and at the other 2,4, 6, 8, and so on, finishing, as you began, with a sheet of paper.
>
once
it
FIG.
8.
round, and
mark
is
free
from pin-holes.
Cart-
preferable to grey.
Take the
with a pencil where the paper meets. Take it off, and with your glue brush go over the remainder up to the marked line, then carefully roll it round your brass
tube. You will now see that when the brass tube is withdrawn, the paper will form a tube of itself. Take the two ends of your coil, and glue one on to each end
in
plate
of
melted paraffin,
it
allow
it
aside to dry.
is
to
soak
,
The
next part
is
made
it
in exactly
in for seve-
the same
slide
way
fit
this time to
your brass tube, so that the The wire is also wound in the same way as previously but you must push your brass tube inside the paper one when you begin to wind, as the paper would collapse and be spoiled. The contact-
ral
hours
out and lay
it it
FIG. 10.
CONDENSER.
When
this is done,
flat
until
it is
it
thoroughly saturated.
to
upon
it.
take
between two
boards and
a good pressure for an hour or two, either under heavy weights or in a letter press. When you remove it, proceed to solder all the ends of the
subject
tinfoil projecting
breakers,
etc., are the same, so are also the connections of the wire under the base. The base itself is slightly
to
is
same with
This
328
and your soldering-iron must not be too hot. Next solder a small piece of No. 20 wire about 3 inches long, one to each; end of the foil. The other ends
of these wires are soldered, one to connection E, Fig. 9, and the other to connection F under the base. An extra sheet of grey paper is placed on the top of the condenser, and it is then gently pressed into the
Every
Man
His
Own
Mechanic," the
from lime
lime.
" Take
it
making whitewash
Slake
and put into it half-a-bushel of by pouring water over it, boiling hot,
cover the lime to the depth
the whole briskly until the
stir
and
lime
sufficient in quantity to
box formed
in the base.
Take care
and screwed down, to prevent the condenser falling out. Four small wooden feet are glued to this, and
coil will be complete. bichromate battery is the most convenient for driving a small coil. If I have not been explicit enough in my notes upon the method of building a small coil, I shall be happy
When the slaking has add two pounds of sulphate of zinc dissolved in water, and one of common salt. These ingredients will cause the wash to harden, and prevent it from cracking, which gives an unsightly appearance to the work." In the same page the author warns
thoroughly slaked.
been
[effected,
whitewash to
position,
" stand,"
i.e.,
remain permanent,
in
damp
to
may
be put to
me
through the
medium
of
"Amateurs
in Council."
because " the damp kills size, and deprives it of its binding power." Salt in whitewash has a tendency to absorb moisture from the air, and my adviser informs me that salted whitewash never keeps its proper tint,
but this changes with the weather.
objects to the use of salt in whitewash,
:
He
therefore
GEORQE EDWINSON.
III. HINTS
FOR COUNTRY READERS FINISH OIL COLOURS FOR SERVANTS' BEDROOMS, ETC.
and recommends the following mixture Proceed as above directed to slake the lime, then add two gallons of beer dregs and half-a-gallon of boiled linseed oil to every halfbushel of lime, and stir in the usual quantity of blueblack ground in whitewash, or other desired colour, to
tint
it.
Where Where
boiled
oil
London, and in all cities and large provincial towns throughout England, the amateur can purchase all the materials he may require from an oil and colour store within a stone's throw of his re-
by
may
be used as a substitute.
vitriol, is
made by
dissolv(oil
of
but less favoured readers residing in the country, far removed from towns, and those living in
sidence
and
may not be
made may be
will
To
all
form of steam,' and a white powder remains. be well to know that coral, shells of fish, and
be
useful.
as the basis of
made from
finely-
The
tion
water to which a little alum has been added. coarse rough particles are removed by leviga;
which can be converted into its soluble form of carbonate by making those substances red-hot. Size can be made by first soaking for many hours in water the cuttings or parings of raw hide, white leather, glove
that
is
is
drawn
off after the mixture of crushed chalk and water has been stirred up together, and this milky liquid is allowed to rest in a pit or some receptacle until all the
fine
particles of
is
The
clear
water
it is it is
then drawn
and the
in the condition of
parchment cuttings, or any untanned animal and then boiling them for some hours longer. The best size for distempering is that made by boiling well-soaked parchment cuttings for several hours, skimming and straining the liquid, and adding three ounces of alum dissolved in water to every pailful of liquid. This, when cold, assumes the form of jelly the best jellied size. Skim milk is used by some perleather,
cuticle,
Where chalk
is
scarce,
Glue,
is
and limestone
by
also
burning these stones in a kiln, may be used as a substitute for whiting in making up a distempering
another substitute for size. A preparation of size and whiting is used by some persons as a preparatory coat
32 9
the dirt
it
removes
it
all
and grease,
This prodeli-
then wash off the whiting with clean water, and dry
the
wood has
is
its
the paint
cess
is
it
by rubbing
but
it
a bad prac-
since
and
it
is
still
worse to thus
cate
tints.
The
old time-worn
method
is
to
wash
hide damp wood. Other persons recommend the use of a preparation for the removal of old paint altogether,
instead of rubbing the surface
soda to
but
kill
the grease.
their
Makers of
for
it
with water.
paint-removers
cleaning paint
cleaner to be a
;
recommend
I
preparations
wood
is
that prefers a painted surface to that of clear varnished wood, showing, as this does, its beautiful
home-made preparation of soap and me by Mr. S. R. Bonney, of 3, Albion Terrace, Lewisham. It is in the form of a
potash
made
for
is
first
grain)
the paint
is
it must penetrate the pores cannot do if the pores are choked with dirt and grease, nor will oil enter where water is present, or where the pores are already choked with a deliquescent salt, such as potash. This
quickly removes
This
it
and
clean.
do not know
its
maker
forward a sample tin to any amateur in return for six penny stamps. Hudson's
informs
that
me
he
will
potash (American potash, or caustic potash, or an equivalent in the form of potash and quicklime) forms
the basis of most paint removers, and the=e leave
behind them a damp surface incapable of retaining subsequent coats of colour under the changes of our
humid
all
climate.
When damp
and
is
shut into
wood by
we wish
any water colour before putting on oil colour, nor may any decayed parts be disguised by a coat of paint. To make a good job of a window-frame, all decayed wood should be cut out and the holes stopped before the first coat is put on. Where the decay is extensive, new wood must be put in, and this must receive a
coat of " priming " before
shall
it
is
painted.
This part of
when we
have some new wood to paint. It frequently happens that bedrooms only require to have their ceilings whitewashed- and the walls repapered. The paintwork only needs a little cleaning to make the room respectable, and it will be well to know bow to clean the paint quickly and well. The following methods have been recommended I. Take one ounce pulverised borax, one pound shavings of best brown soap, and three quarts of water. Put the soap and borax into the water, allow it to simmer until all the soap has been dissolved, stir it frequently, but do not allow it to boil. Apply it to the paint on a piece of old flannel, and rinse with clean water.
:
is good as a paint-cleaner. resume where I left off in my last article. We have cleaned and clearcoled walls and ceiling, distempered the latter, cleaned, repaired, and " stopped " all the woodwork around the room, taken off all locks and similar fastenings, repaired the windows and sash-lines, and have put on the first coat of colour. This should now be firm and dry, and all shrinkage of the stopping should have ceased. Armed with a kind of scrubber, made from a piece of wood 4 inches by 3 inches by 1 inch, with a piece of glass-paper wrapped around it, we must go over all the flat surfaces of the newly-painted work, and lightly rub down all rough spots, special attention being paid to those parts that have been stopped, the object being to prepare a smooth ground for the next coat of paint. With strips of wood of various shapes, chisel and round pointed, and smoothly-folded glass-paper, every part of the woodwork may be reached. The curved part of mouldings should be smoothed with the glass-paper wrapped around the thumb or finger, but we must avoid folding the paper so as to form creases and angles, and thus scratch the surface of the paint. When all has been rubbed down smooth, we must next take up the dusting-brush and remove
Extract of Soap
Now
to
all
we
pro-
for a
few
how we shall set to work in putting on the colour where we shall begin and where finish, and how we shall treat the different parts. Those
minutes, and think
hints should
will not
in
my
last paper,
but
it
Procure a piece of clean flannel, some clean water, and some powdered whiting wring the flannel out
2.
;
be too
it is
late to consider
stance, before
we begin
to
them now.
it
in the whiting,
and with
this
rub
and frame,
33
hand,
as
it
oil
to this is
added
driers in
fingers.
far
the top sash, and paint work is a separate job) then push the top sash up again and paint the part in which the bottom sash works, together with the parting bead and front bead on both sides. Then draw down the bottom sash, and paint the corresponding
will go,
then pull
down
This coat
will
the bottom
rail
inside (outside
without gloss,
oil
;
even a little will tone down the gloss or shiny appearance of the surface. The pigment above mentioned will give that peculiar shade known as " brown
stone colour," the shade being deeper in proportion to
the quantity of pigment used.
parts above
it.
Then
pull
rail,
down
push up again, finish the top sash, then the bottom sash, and finish off with the Let all frame, working inwards towards the room. strokes of the brush be directed lengthwise of the part to be painted do not overcharge the tool with colour, place it firmly in the corner of each frame and draw along (without smearing the it glass) from left to right, then from the right corner to left, then from
inches, paint the top
;
is
obtained by mixing
small quantity
paint
is is
trial
samples
that
is
to say,
say
a cupful
of
added
taken from the bulk, and the shading pigment in small quantities, with frequent stirring,
until the
is
shown when
The
quantity
top to bottom, and so on, reversing the stroke with a firm, steady hand,
stirred
first
The shade
1
to
be secured
is
and giving a light stroke over all to form a smooth surface. If any of the paint should get on the glass, wipe it off at once with a bit of linen rag wound around the tip of the finger, and keep this rag
near at hand.
and plain parts when this has of the woodwork been applied, more of the shading pigment must be added to the remainder until the darker shade
that for the panels
;
ii
10
rails, etc.,
has been
turn our attention
obtained.
Proceed
in
We will
to
now
and also the door of the room. If there are mouldings to the panels, do these and the edges of the doors first, then paint the top panels, next bottom panels, then top and bottom centre styles, then
presses,
4-
8
I
FIG. 23.
1, 2,
DIAGRAM
AND
;
making up this colour after the same method as that explained for making up the first. Use the same quantity of white lead, and mix this with a volume of oil equal to that of the mixture of oil and turpentine used at first add the driers in a
;
SHOWING DOOR
;
ITS PARTS.
first,
shade to taste, and strain. Centre ;-tyle; and finish off with outside rail, About one pennyworth of the mixed Top Eail; 8, 10, 11, Outside Styles. styles. A reference to the illustracolouring pigment will be sufficient tion, Fig. 23, will enable the reader to understand the for a gallon pailful of paint. If a grey tint should be preferred to stone colour, it can be got by a mixture names of parts of a door. We must next consider the arrangement of shade, of two parts ultramarine blue to one part of rose pink
top
rail,
Top Panels
Bottom Panels 5, Top 6, Bottom Centre Style; 7, Bottom Rail; 9, Lock Rail;
3, 4,
then
if it is
intended to
make any
rails,
or of vermilion.
of panels, styles,
and mouldings. Some persons prefer to leave the finished work in one uniform shade or tint others prefer panels ind flat surfaces painted with a light shade, and the. styles, rails, and mouldings picked out with a darker shade of the
;
to
be painted should
first
and when dry be finished with Japan black or varnish black. The latter is made by darkening oak varnish
receive a coat of the turpentine second colour,
Brunswick black
its
it
is
not suit-
same
little
both cases the nrrangement is merely a matter of taste, and the latter entails very
colour.
In
sticky condition
when applied
to cold metal,
and
is
not convenient
mixed
When
painted,
The second or finish coat for old work, technically known as " third coat oil colour," is composed of white
lead, thinned with
we
and shaded with a pigment made of equal parts raw umber and
oil
raw linseed
alone,
we
nut
one night
we may wish to preserve for it away in its present cononly we shall find its surface
33i
in
height of the
of paper.
one piece or
roll
put the paint in condition for further use, we shall have to strain it and will then find its bulk considerably reduced, thus showing some loss of material. To avoid this loss it is well to always cover the paint with water when we leave work at night, and, in the case
of residues, empty the paint-pot or pail, pouring the paint into a small can or pot, and not only fill the small pot with water, but also fill the larger one with
Now,
if
cornice, is 9 feet,
we
shall
one
piece will furnish four lengths of paper, and those four lengths will cover a width of 84 inches, or 7 feet
;
by finding out how many widths of 7 feet there are in the compass of, the walls, we may estimate the
then,
number of pieces
is
It
it
there until
it
is all
again wanted.
It
room with a stick 2 1 inches long, to omit the spaces occupied by doors and windows, estimate the number of lengths that can be cut out of
usual to measure a
the brushes (this can be done by resting the bristles on the side of the paint-pot, and gently passing a
smooth
stick
down over
required.
water during the night, or for a day or two until again But if the date of their future use is uncer-
work out all the paint in turpentine ; words, to well wash them in turpentine, dry them, wTap them up in old rag to protect them from dust, and place them safely away in the tool-box.
tain, it is best to
or, in other
one piece, allow one piece over in every seven for and another piece for repairs but if we adopt the method first mentioned, we shall have enough paper for all practical purposes. In choosing a pattern for a bedroom, avoid too stiff geometrical repetition let the style be one of a
waste,
; ;
and
let
the tint
little
be cool
for a
in
it
room
warmth
water,
useless.
their
bristles
rot,
have entered largely into the details of mixing, up, and laying on the water colour for distempering and the oil colour for painting servants' bedrooms, not only because those details will be useful to
I
Avoid brown, bright green, and staring patterns. I must return to this subject in my next article, which will be devoted to the best methods of hanging wall-papers. {To be continued.)
for those facing the north.
making
Firm
of
EENRT
J.
MARTIN
If
Co., Cork.
vanced portions of house-painting, but also because, in many cases, no other shades of colour will be used in small cottages than those I have mentioned, for in most small houses the same well-known stone colour,
or some shade of drab or of grey, prevails on the woodwork in all the rooms, whether designated bed-
cannot be said that I come unknown and unintroduced to my readers, for, if they will look at their October, 1882, number,
room, parlour, or kitchen ; and in this class of houses the homes of our labouring poor, contentment reigns with clean white distempered ceilings.
firm to
all
on page 526, under the heading of "Notes on Novelties," our Editor introduces my who subscribe to his journal, by recom-
Readers who may be fortunate enough to possess our Editor's valuable work (already mentioned in this
article) will find
mending them to purchase the products of an invention sold by us, which, we may add, has since made wonderful way in England. To "begin at the beginning," as we Irish say, my firm has been asked by
our Editor to write a series of Articles, describing the manufacture of rubber stamps, for the information of the readers of the Journal he conducts, and in which is to be found very valuable instruction in all
full
Substances" on
p. 714,
and another
table of
"Com-
pound Colours " on p. 7 1 5. By the aid of these tables any desired shade of colour in oil pigments may be
obtained.
departments of
the paint
is
Amateur Work.
of
dry we shall be able to hang the paper ; meanwhile we may measure the room, estimate the quantity of paper required, fix upon the quality,
When
The method
call
making that
beautiful stereotype
we
a rubber stamp has long been kept a trade secret, known only to the initiated, who are not at all, as a disposed to part with their information by any
;
and
select the tint and pattern. The usual width of English wall-paper is 21 inches, and the rolls of paper,
rule,
termed " pieces," are 12 yards long to estimate the quantity of paper required to cover the walls of the room, we shall require to know how many widths of
;
ordinary process of question and answer indeed, on the contrary, the makers of rubber stamps are retentive of their secret to the last degree,
imparting
it
only
when
receiving
handsome remuneration.
will
many
In these articles I propose to give the amateur a complete description of the process we employ, show-
33 2
ing him, step by step, how to make a rubber stamp, from the setting up of the type to the mounting of the
finished vulcanised product to that
may mention
that
is
piece of brass,
view that
leaves
it is
my
which adds so
caoutchouc.
to the
profit, especially
it
By following with ordinary care and exactness the instructions which will be given, any person can easily make a perfect stamp of any dimensions from the
do
all
that an
teur requires of
when
state that
it is
largely
itself, in
a large oval
of a
quarter of this
In order that the amateur as possible,
may have
I
his
work
simplified as
much
will
and cheapness. I will, presume that the amateur has got the necessary outfit, and is ready to commence work. One or two ''founts," or sets, of ordinary printer's the amateur may, for a type will now be required beginning, buy say a " 2 A 3a" fount of fancy and a " 5 A 6a" fount of plain pattern from any dealer in These will printers' materials, such as Squintani, etc. be ample for him to start with, and according as he progresses he may procure other patterns. At this
;
stage
it
may be
stated that
it
is
terms
as
much
as
possible.
:
may be
;
summed up
as follows Ordinary printer's type is first " set up," or arranged as if for printing purposes a
is
rubber as a simple straight line, so that the amateur may, if he chooses, indulge his taste for fine curves and delicate hair-line embel-
most
intricate pattern in
plaster cast
prepared
in
its
made
to
which the prepared rubber is forced, and, when vulcanized, makes your rubber stamp all complete, ready to be mounted, etc., for sale. The apparatus proper which is necessary for the foregoing manipulations, and which is employed by my firm, is made of the best quality of polished iron, and consists of five distinct parts, not including two screws l\ inches long it weighs about 7 lbs., is very strong, simple, and easy to work (manual skill being reduced to a minimum), cannot get out of order, and is ready
;
The process of manufacture cf an ordinary namethe instructions will will now be entered into refer just as well to a stamp made up of several hundred letters. Suppose we take the name
stamp
;
f antra
The type
is
Umiilj.
be " set up," or arranged in the chase, Fig. 1, which must be placed on a perfectly level surBe careful that a face, such as piece of planed iron. blank is put between the two \Hx&.s,James and Smith, and that a full-stop follows the surname. Of course, it
to
It
consists of a dry-heat
improved moulding
various
and a frame.
great nicety of fitting required in
all its
understood that the type backwards, and as mistakes are liable to occur
is
reads
The
sary for
parts, the
wrong
letters,
which would
stereotypes,
difficulty of procur-
my
firm to
undertake
to
waste of time, the system my firm adopt is, when all the wording in a stamp is arranged, to take a small
mirror and hold
it
Amateur Work
making
outfit,
complete
rubber-stamp-
over the
FIG.
2. FRAME.
of 17s. 6d.
type at such an angle that the eye meets the reflection of the
letters,
which
may
procure this
as
it
must be remembered
now be
in
and
errors corrected.
manship and of matured experience, and, furthermore, that these articles will describe the stamp-making process only as in conjunction with
it.
This being done, the type must be wedged tightly the chase by spaces and small wedge-shaped pieces of wood called quoins, which the amateur may easily make to suit his own requirements, or procure
at the
if
he
is
same house
level
outfit.
The
within the
much money at
means of amateurs who have not their command, and who are, perhaps,
piece of hard wood, say four inches square, is now taken, placed on the face of the type, and moved about, gently tapping
it
.333
down
of
known
physical
law,
as level as possible.
is
ready.
of turpentine
now
my next
of
article, in
which the
the
first
inte-
to the
process
stamp
vulcanization
will
be
much
thoroughly explained,
for, I believe,
filling up the smaller crevices of the letters. Laying the chase and its contents aside for the present, the frame, Fig. 2, is now taken, and the face, frame, and inside sides of the frame are lightly smeared over with the same mixture, which prevents
England, for the benefit of my readers. difficulty be met with in procuring type, send a complete fount, on receipt of
my
made
for
rubber printing.
(To be continued!)
it
The
of Paris
to
plaster
is
and
form a paste, until it is of the consistency of putty, working it 'well with an ordinary knife, and taking especial pains to leave no lumps or unmixed plaster in the mass. Put the plaster into the frame, until it is quite full and inclined to run over the side, then take a knife, placing the back on the top edge of the frame, run it backwards and forwards several times, so that
all
o
I, THE CARCASE, AND
HOW
TO
MAKE
IT;
ROM
the
surface
The
plaster should
fectly free
now present a level white surface, perfrom holes or lumps. On examining the
given in Amateur WORK, and from time to time, accordingly, I have promised that the information asked for should be given without unreasonable delay, relying on the offers of
edges of the chase and frame a letter " C " will be found punched into the metal for register, and now, taking the frame, just before the plaster gets hard, press it evenly
and
steadily,
unti;
one or two volunteers who proposed to do all that could be possibly desired in this special direction. Being disappointed myself in not receiving the preferred papers, I have been compelled to disappoint my correspondents who have written again and again and as I dare to reproach me for my shortcomings not on any account whatever keep them waiting any longer, I must endeavour to meet their wishes,
;
on the uprights. In two or three minutes, when the plaster has hardened sufficiently, gently lift the frame, the plaster still filling it and adhering to it, off the chase, and put it into an oven to dry. In order that the process of evaporation may proceed as rapidly as possible (for the demands of business are pressing) the frame is fixed on its own plate by means of four iron pegs projecting from the former, and fitting tightly into corresponding
holes in the plate, so that after the plate, frame,
plaster have
regretting very
much
that
am
to take the instructions they require from myself instead of from others who might have imparted more novelty and freshness of treatment to the subject than
I
may be
able to give to
is
it.
and
possessed of average skill as a thank me for describing the will joiner, carpenter and regulation doll's house of the toy-shops, beyond which, as far as I am aware, nothing of higher preit will, however, tensions has yet been attempted
No
amateur who
six
or
seven
frame and
together,
plate, the plaster and frame come away and being replaced in the oven a much larger surface for evaporation is left exposed, and the water
in the plaster,
plaster
is
soon dry.
being rapidly converted into steam, the But it must be perfectly dry, and
it,
for our
purpose
it
my firm
be necessary to turn our attention to it for a few moments. The ordinary doll's house consists of a box, divided horizontally into two compartments, surmounted by a couple of boards, nailed on to two triangular gable ends, and having a movable front, fitted with an imitation door, and pierced for five windows, one at top and bottom, on either side, and one above the door.
When
away
it
is
entire front
this is
taken
emitted,
and condenses, by a
there
334
possesses
to a house,
the roof
all
etc.,
the
blinds,
is
in the interior,
because there
no
if there be one in the nursery, there is a chance that the glass may get broken, with the result of cut fingers in picking up or pulling out the broken pieces. To obviate the removal of the front, and, in
cupboard,
The
:
of the regulation
fact, to
two compartments or rooms in it, and that these rooms are windowless, and on this account for the most part cannot be filled up so as to present a tolerthat I am the absolute originator of the plan I am ably close resemblance to the interior of a prettily about to describe, as others may have built a doll's furnished apartment. Let us now see what steps can house in this way before, and never made the be taken to remedy these shortcomings, and bring method public still I believe the plan to be original, the doll's house in closer imitation of the house in and I am open to which dolly's little C A'F correction if it is not owner resides. It is a
;
do away with the movable front altogether, is one of the easiest things imaginable, and, like the friends of Columbus, when they saw how easily he performed his famous egg trick, many of my readers may wonder how it could be that it did not occur to them before. In saying this, however, I do not assert
so.
it is
Even
at the best
any doubt
all
all,
**%
i
whatever,
us
for
after
of
are
\
i i
i
who,
i \ \
merely
larger
" children
of
1
a box with a deep lid, as anyone may see who possesses a box
of this kind, and will take the trouble to set
!!
'
*'
the
is
actual
thing
'!
which
imitated, the
it
J
\
i!
more
greater
that
If
girl,
I
highly
is
esteemed,
is
and
the
it.
the
will
show clearly
value
/
is
put on
to
doll's
house
possess
which
the
for
would
greatest
\
C D
4
/
out
one faces the interior of the other, and forms FIG. I. PLAN OF DOLL'S HOUSE, SHOWING IT WHEN CLOSED AND greatest number of but one open space WHEN OPEN. rooms in it or, in within the two boxes, other words, I should infinitely prefer a house that when they are placed together in this manner. In would allow of my having a dining-room, drawingthe plan before us, the boxes are supposed to be on room, kitchen, bedroom, day nursery and night end, and the double lines, CB, ba, AG represent in
be that which had the
charm
me would
houses of ordinary mould six-roomed house, in short, to a two-roomed house and as regards my preference, I think I should be quite in accord with the desires of most men and
in dolls'
;
room contained
of one of them,
and D
E,
F,
in this extravagant and ambitious age. have said that the first fault in the construction of the common doll's house of every-day nursery life a fault which meets us on the very threshold of the subject is the necessity that exists for removing the
I
pose these lidless boxes to have the boards which form the back of each connected by hinges, as shown by the solid lines proceeding either way in a horizontal Here, then, we have our direction from the point G. two boxes hinged together, so that one, in fact, forms
a deep bottom
were placed on
its
When
removed, the front must be laid aside, and if not carefully bestowed in some corner of the room, or the
my system, let us suppose both boxes to remain on end, as originally placed. Now open the boxes, or lather draw them away
nation of
335
D'
e'.
And
movement
is,
is fully
exposed to view
as
when
in two compartments instead of one, the boxes were closed, without any removal
of the frontj and more than this, precisely the same space or area is occupied by the boxes when open as when closed, although this is a feature which this new
FIG. 2.
CARCASE OF
DOLL
SHOWING CHAMBERS
slight
IN INTERIOR.
circle, in
to
F',
c to
c',
form of
doll's
house possesses in
common
that
is is
with the
and D
which it is would be taken up, to show in the diagram. By this movement, the backs GA, GF, of the two boxes are brought together in the position indicated by the dotted double lines, G A', G f", the sides, A B, E F, assume the positions A' b', e' f and the fronts, B c, D E,
1
,
old form.
required
tired of playit
ing with
it,
up with-
out trouble.
It will
be noticed that the accompanying illustradone to scale, although they are drawn
As long
is
as proportional
now become
when
fully
treatment
is
observed
that
to say, the
adoption of
33t>
certain proportion between its relative parts drawing to scale is not absolutely necessary. Indeed, the keynote to the relative proportions of the structure being given, it is as well to leave the settlement of the
scale, etc., to
the structure of
new boards
size,
I
to suit their
with regard to
were to be made in this way, and on the model that I have indicated. Firstly, then I am now referring
it is
clear
to Fig.
2 two
a large roomy
nearly equal length and breadth should be chosen for the top and bottom of each compartment
and to tie all intending builders of doll's houses to a bed of Procrustes, as regards size, would In all cases, however, be unwise and impolitic. whether the house consists of one, two, or more rooms, it is desirable to make the rooms or compartments of such a size that little hands may move its occupants and the furniture in and out at pleasure, with ease and
capacity,
freedom.
Again, considerable differences of opinion
exist as to the shape, size
may
ments amateur
;
be
namely, bottom and top of the main compartment to the left, and a' B' c d' and k' l' m n' 'for the bottom and top respectively of the main compartment to the right. To make this clear, supposing we wish the rooms to assume the form of a cube outside measurement, and that we are using half inch boards for the sides of the cases, our top and bottom boards must be 11^ in. long by 11 in. broad, because the fourth side is open. These dimensions would be too small for any actual house, but they are merely taken by way of illustration, and also on the supposition that the amateur being not too skilful in
A B c d and K L M N
for the
the same, or very nearly so, in every case the house being built in two parts that are hinged together to
dovetailing his
work
together.
If
he be a skilled
perfectly
admit of easy opening and closing, and rectangular in form. A departure, however, may be taken from the
hard and
very
last.
fast
I
till
will
The
have
to say
on
this point
the
As a cube is what is termed a perfect figure, being of equal length, and depth, and height, and having its six sides equal, I have selected a cube as being as
good a form as any that may be chosen for the shape of the rooms. The form of the house, or rather its ground plan, where the rooms are cubic in form, is is twice its that of a rectangle whose length breadth, a proportion which is good in itself for the object in view. Those who prefer a shallower
form of room, may make the probetween the length and breadth of the rooms to be 4:3, or 3 2, or even 4 2, which would make the dimensions of the house, when closed, to be in the first case, 4:6; in the second, 3:4; and which would in the third, 4 4, or a complete square
and
larger
portion
The proportions of have a very ugly appearance. my house when closed, as regards length and breadth, The rooms are each taken to form a are as 2:1. perfect cube outside measurement, that is to say, including the thickness of the sides, and it is on these lines that the isometrical projection of the body of the
house, as shown in Fig.
2, is
constructed.
From what has been said, it is obvious that any amateur who is unwilling to go to the expense or trouble of making a house out of sawn boards, may
utilize
carcase, but as
many
will
doubtless prefer to
make
by the rectangles a b l k, compartment to the right by the rectangles a' b' l' k', k'a'd'n', and n'd'c m. Supposing that the sides and top and bottom in each compartment are put together, we have two rectangular boxes, each of which is exactly twice as high as These compartments should be it is long or deep. divided in each case into two divisions by a horizontal board E D G H in the left hand compartment, and These E' d' G h' in the right hand compartment. boards need not be fixed, and may rest on slips, the ends of which are shown at D, G, and D', which should be attached to the sides of the cases by small French These slips nails or slight screws, and glued as well. not only act as supports for the board which forms the ceiling of the room at the bottom, and the floor of the room above it, but they form the cornice of the room below, and should be cut from moulding suitable for this purpose and slips may be glued along the edges formed by the junction of sides and top in the lines L K, K N, N M, and M N', N' K', k' l', as cornices to the upper rooms in the two compartments. The boards D E H G, G H' e' d' should be fitted in easily, so that they may be withdrawn at pleasure without any difficulty. The carpets of the first floor rooms may be glued down to these boards, unless the more fashionable and far cleaner style of squares of carpet in the centre of the room, with stained and varnished spaces between carpet and walls, be adopted. By following the plan that has been described, provision will have been made for a four-roomed
the compartment to the
KAD
N,
and N
D,
and
in the
337
may be
N*
k'.
finished
be considered by screwing on
lines
sufficient,
the work
flush
l',
slips of
wood
L,
N M and M
and putting on a low-pitched gable roof between slips, first blocking up the ends above the lines K n. l M and M n', k' l' which will afford supports for the roof-boards to rest on, and to which they may be nailed down. The roof-boards may overhang the house along the front of the entire structure and at the sides, but at the back the boards must be flush with the back, as any extension beyond the outer surface of the boards that form the back, would prevent the opening of the house when it is desired to
hese
expose the interior to view.
III.-REGULAR MATERIAL,
EXT
is
the composing
importance to type in fitting up room of a printing office, the " material," under which designain
tion
comes
tacles
articles, as well as
in the operations
outlined in our
first article
on
this subject,
and now
about to be more minutely described. In page 56, Fig. 1, an illustration is given of the general appear-
There is, however, a far better way of finishing the house at the top, which will not only give it what may be termed a more house-like appearance, but will also
yield increased accommodation,
into a six-roomed house.
making
it,
in
fact,
ance of a compositor at work, or " at case," as it is The artist who engraved the technically termed. block has, however, placed the " composing stick" in the workman's hand in a way which would not facilitate the progress
be necessary to carry the boards which form the two parts of the back, namely, N d c m and n' d' C m somewhat above the level of the upper surfaces of the cases, shown by the planes K L M N, k' 1/ M n', say to the
this, it will
To do
of his work
the correct
way
of
just
draw attention
illustrate, in
to
it
before
commencing my
we
purpose to
extent of three-fourths
sides these boards
measurements and description given, amateurs may the more readily set about making any of the articles
for themselves, with the least risk of error in design
I will take them in usual form of an order for a new printing office, in which, after type has been considered, next comes "cases" Previously I have spoken of " cases " to put it in.
To do
qr'
R'
must be cut on the bevel. good proportion, take m, and q M, draw the lines R N and R' N', and cut off
this in
qr=q
parts
and
details.
filling
lines.
The
R N M Q,
which are continuations of the boards that form the back, as it has been shown, form the backs of two attics, in the shape of a mansarde roof, the rooms being completed by two boards, namely, ORNK and OKIP, in the compartment to the left, and O'r'n'k', and o'k'l'p' in the compartment to the right, which must be cut accurately to the proper bevel. Unless the parts are dovetailed together, which may be difficult for some amateurs to manage as they are on the bevel, it will be found better to nail the back to the side R N, and the front to the side O K of the piece O K x R, and so on for the other compartment on the right. Of course, a neater job can be made by fitting all the parts together, both above and but there is no below, with mitred dovetail joints absolute need to do this, as the joints, whether roughly or neatly made, will be covered over with ornamental casing, and thus hidden from view. In order to complete the carcase, nothing remains to be done but to nail square pieces of board, with the edges on two sides properly bevelled, as shown at o P Q R, o' p' Q r', to form a flat roof for the building, and to screw slips, about ij inches square, to the under-surface of the bottom boards, abcd,a'b'c d', for a purpose which I will explain in my next paper. (To be continued^)
Q,
;
N'M
as " trays of boxes," but now we must learn to think and speak of these as " cases," no matter what size or
number
as a
is
Cases
may
be defined
is is
boxes embraced in a frame, in which type kept in use for composition. The most usual kind commonly used in pairs, and when a pair of cases spoken of, it is always understood to be an upper
set of
It will
be seen
that the
upper
down
the middle of the case, practically making it into two In this case the sets or series of equal sized boxes.
and small capitals of a fount are placed, the thick bar dividing the " caps " from the " small caps." The lower case is used for small letters, or " lower
capitals
vary in
size, in
most frequently
"case," irrespective of the style of divisions, is usually 2 feet 9 inches long, 14 inches broad, front rail if inch
deep, end and back rails
i-J-
bottom, \ inch thick, planted on. The partitions are 3 T 5 inch thick by i-J. The terms upper and lower case are derived from the fact that the case containing the " caps," and consequently less frequently required
letters,
is
always
338
on the upper part of the frame, with its lower edge resting against the back rail of the lower case, as shown in the illustration on page 56, two pairs of
cases being there depicted, placed ready for work, so
that two persons could
desired.
the
not, be fitted with rails for the half cases, according to the price paid for it. The
work
at the
same frame
if
A
is
double case
as
measurement
case, but,
back, 4 feet 6 inches; front, 3 feet 6 inches; width, back to front, 21 inches;
divided
into
three equal
FIG. 4.
length, 4 feet 4 inches. A double frame is constructed to hold two full-sized cases, side
by
side, as Fig.
1.
UPPER
CASE.
Two
Next in importance conies the composing stick, Fig. 10. This instrument consists of a
light
"
remaining third
case sorts."
occupied by
up
the
This case
to
is
most
.ower case.
the end
It is
used tQ arrange
he would have
every
little
fount of fancy
full
is
emptied
in
had upper and lower case sorts cast with it. Those who must be economical first, neat and
(if
manner which we
shall describe.
The
sliding angle
expeditious afterwards
they
can),
sometimes resort to the expedient of ''laying" the upper and lower in the same boxes, trusting to be able to distinguish one from the other by the size of the bodies some even go so far as to
;
half case. two entirely different founts in called broadside sticks they are made of wood for the the same case, keeping the sizes of bodies so far apart sake of lightness. Formerly the " stick " was comthat they are distinguishable by their size. We need monly made in wood hence its name. Newspaper hardly say that such expedients should be the last columns are always one definite settled width, and resource, as it is clear time and money are saved in
" lay "
;
end piece to be constantly varied according to the work in hand. The depth of the stick is inch, and 2 inches wide from back to the open side. They vary in length from 6 inches to 12 inches. The material used is iron, steel, or gun metal. Longer sticks for posters are
the
compositors are
the sliding
The
(Fig.
triple
or treble
case
angle
to
has three series of equally divided compartments, and is designed to hold three distinct founts of job letter,
7)
ensure
all
same width.
When
FIG.
the stick
lifted out
is
full,
the
6. DOUBLE CASE.
type
is
much
of which
is
cast
and
upon the
11.
galley,
is
This
simply a shallow
Half cases, Fig. 8, measure other meai6i by 14 inches surements same as those
;
5 inch deep running round one side and end, the other two being left
previously
described.
They
fig.
;
same purpose as a triple case but the reduced dimensions of length, enables the spare space at the end of a whole frame, Fig. 9, to be utilized by forming
a rack for their reception. The reader by this time knows that the rack with sloping top, used to hold cases, is called a frame. A
They are made of wood, a better class being made with zinc bottoms and wood sides, while the best of all are formed of metal, true and square in
open.
every respect.
When
the galley
is
full
is
ready to
make up into a page, a chase, Fig. 12, is required. The chase is simply a rectangular frame of cast or
wrought
iron, inside
frame
to
is
called a three-quarter
is
wedged up by
"
339
wooden wedges
called quoins.
Chases are
of every size to suit the pages of type in use. When the type is locked up in the chase, as we shall describe,
it
are used to place between lines of letters in large wall bills, and to surround formes locked up in the
chase.
true
is
called a forme.
and square.
The groove is to aid its bedding on the press Hard dry wood should be used in
-well
known
to
need description
made
used
manufacturing furniture of all sorts and sizes. Side and foot sticks are very much like narrow furniture, only
they taper
the other, as
wood, and
or flatten
is
used to
They
plate
"
down formes of
of any conve-
They may be
they are supplied being 36 inches long. Their use is to form abut-
by 4 inches by
n\ inches thick being usual for job work. The groove made round near the top side is for the purpose
ments or wedges for the quoins shown in Fig. 16 to operate in compressing the type in the chase
into a solid mass.
of affording hold
The
shooting
when
using
it.
Setting rules (Fig. 13) are thin pieces of brass with a projecting ear at one end, and are made of various lengths, to suit the width of the
WHOLE
FRAMF.
widest part to the narrow end of the groove made between the side of the chase and the side sticks.
set up.
Its
strips
of composing.
36 to an inch.
pica.
cast 8 to pica
instrument shown in
14,
Fig.
needs
little
de-
made
merely lead, and are used to place between lines of type which require to be
closer together than the
thinnest reglet.
of wood,
usually
inch
high,
and of various
thickness,
are laid
when locking up
into a forme.
which
used
to
and about
that
printing,
save
be-
may be
tested for
longing
presses,
rollers
and
which we shall
"Press
for
work"
in
future paper.
Those who
desire to
make
themselves have
now
regular goods
crasies
narrow, 3 ems broad, 4 ems double-narrow, 6 ems double-broad, 8 ems (remember the em is of an inch... They are cut up into lengths as required, and
; ; ;
schemes
different
and they may suit their own idiosynvarying these details. One word as to to hold letters with for making cases
;
They
will
arrangement of boxes than those shown. be labour in vain, for the experience of
34
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
purpose
is
If case
making is attempted,
The
:
MONG
^
the
many
dealers
in
the
apparatus,
in the prac-
frame work
inserted.
materials,
tice of
Grooves are made for the ends of the partitions forming the small boxes, which are dropped in from the under side, and the bottom is nailed on last. Great care must be used to see that the bottoms of the partitions touch the bottom of the case, otherwise, small types will slide from one box to another, and give constant trouble to the compositor, who will pick up all sorts of letters from one box, and render clean proofs an impossibility. Certainly, the best
one case of regular manufacture, take it to pieces, and construct yours like it, with any constructive improvement that occurs to
plan
is
London and in the larger towns of the United Kingdom, a prominent place is occupied by Messrs. J. F. Shew and Co., Photographic Stores, 88, Newman Street, Oxford Street, and 132, Wardour Street, Oxford
Street,
London,
is
IV.
If I
their price-list,
which
title
I have, however, stronger evidence than this in their favour, having recently seen their " New Model " Dry Plate Camera,
to procure at least
Pocket Dry Plate Camera, Portable Folding Dry Plate Changing Box and the Eclipse Instantaneous Shutter, which for construction, beautiful finish, and marvellous suitability
for the objects in view, are pieces of
fairly
New
you.
Composing sticks again, require great exactness, and unless the amateur is very skilful they are safest purchased of a good dealer. The furniture,
etc., is
claim to be
"New
sizes to
Model
"
The
in.
six different
by 4J
to
reglet,
all
15 in.
by 12
from
17s. 6d. to
10
10s.,
and
must be square and true, or the result will be that, instead of making up a forme, you will certainly make "pie," a term which is full of expressive horror to the printer's mind and we trust that our readers are so carefully paving their way by the help of these pages, that such experiences may be few and far between. Nothing is so trying to the young printer as to surmount all the difficulties of setting up a page of small type, and then at the last moment of locking up the page in the chase to see the whole mass tumble to pieces, thus making " pie," a result which will surely be achieved if proper care is not exercised in the
;
at prices
varying
from
15s. to 40s.,
They
may be had
These Cameras, specially designed to meet the requirements of tourists and landscape photographers, are made of the finest mahogany and are provided
with bellows-body of best leather, double swing back, hinged
for
new improved
folding
wing
its
In testimony of
previous operations.
say that
fair
and therefore its portability, it is only necessary to the camera measuring 10 in. by 8 in. by 4^ in.
slide,
We have
now a
will
with one
and
their uses
so that
be occupied with the practical handling of this "material." Prices we have not given, as so many lists are published in which all this
is
and
slides.
This
if in.
instrument closed,
out to
its fullest
open
finish
extent, to
mark
the
information
in
easily obtained
is
understanding
technically de-
scribed and priced. Messrs. Squintani and Co., London, and The Birmingham Machinists' Company, Birmingham, both issue excellent price lists. We are indebted to the courtesy and kindness of the latter
firm for the use
illustrating
of its fittings, and note how easily the front can be turned in any direction without altering the position of the camera itself. To any one who does not understand its mechanism,
its
little
wonder
is
as to
how
it is
contrived,
little
and how
its
its
numerous
parts are
connected.
The
New
of
many
of the
wood engravings
printer's
it
is
the
made
workshop.
leather,
Thus far I have now brought the amateur on his way to become, I venture to hope, a printer of no mean skill. The materials and appliances are easy
to deal with
;
It is
in.
made
in.,
in
by 4
"js.
two and is
sold at
larger
1
size.
cameras
rack at
at 4s. 6d.
and
5s.
the instruments, and they can be fitted with brass pinion and
6s. 6d.
and
7s. 6d.,
More
the results,
if
as to encourage
task.
him
(To
be continued.)
and
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
Dry Plate Changing Box, whose by its name, occupies but a very small compass, and can be opened and closed with great rapidity,
Portable Folding
indicated
34*
fully into every particular of this
The
gitz's
pamphlet goes
new
purpose
is
from the choice of material on which to paint, to the treatment and finish of all kinds of subjects this is followed
art,
:
They
by a
and
their various
com-
are strong and durable, and will bear a great amount of even
binations
is
notifi-
rough usage. They are made for changing plates varying Their size, in size from 6J in. by 4! in. to 12 in. by 10 in. when closed, ranges from 13 in. by 10 in. by 1 in., to 24 in, by 16 in. by 1 in. ; the extent of expansion being from 9 in.
in the smallest size to 15 in. in
and and water colours, and on china, in drawing from the model and in charcoal, and in etching on
cation of the author's charges for instruction in the art,
also in painting in oil
A priceis
the largest
the weight
of
indelible
tapestry
colours
and mediums
207,
also
ranges from 2 J lbs. to 6i lbs., and the price from 15s. 6d. to They are beautifully made, and must be invaluable to 42s.
appended.
Mr. A.
S. Lunt,
do not see why they should not be made available for work at home, especially when space is limited. But perhaps the most remarkable of Messrs. J. F. Shew and
the tourist.
I
me
a price-list of his
all
working
for
trade,
their strength,
Co.'s
Specialties
is
their
lightness, simplicity,
The
self-fastening
jaw,
amount of
light
during exposure.
The motion
it is
of
wonderful to
is
the grip.
2.
The
it
steel
is
made without
holes,
which causes
to
be
motion,
fast or slow.
made
lens,
first
21s., 26s.,
supplied
cramp.
3.
The
two
with an
extra
of the bar, which saves time, and obviates the necessity for a
an
is liable
to be strained
charge of
6d.,
and the
third
and
are
made
an
tinguished by letters.
3
ft.
Each pattern
varies in length
sizes,
from
should not
fail to
taking in
to purchase.
lengths of
Kent and Co., Agents and Importers of French Wire Nails and Fancy Gilt Nails, etc., 20, Old Compton Street, Soho, London, IV., have sent me some specimens of the nails that they supply. The wire nails are excellent in quality, and so are the furniture nails, which are beautifully made, and far superior to the brass-headed nails of this class that are generally used. Messrs. Kent and Co., however,
Messrs.
of cramp.
terns, the
work varying from 2 ft. to 6 ft., according to size There is a slight difference of price in the pat-
T pattern
ft.
and
Ekes, or lengthening
bars, measuring 2
for the
terns,
and upwards, can be had at 3s. per foot and 2s. 6d. per foot for the A and B patand shoes for bench use, which can be put on and
T patterns,
when
not required, at
steel
is.
The
me
cramps consist of a
am
unable to
my
and
in these
to, and worked backward and forward by, a short deep-threaded screw, and at the other a sliding jaw, which is held in place by a short piece of
paribus.
all
If Messrs.
will let
me
iron,
bar,
which is notched to correspond with the notching of the and which, when dropped into place, prevents the back
my
fault.
The
steel
bar of the
T pattern is 2 in.
his "
in Indelible Colours,"
46 pp. The writer is also author of anuther vade mecum for amateur painters, namely, " The Handbook for China Painting on Glass." The manual a pamphlet 5!
by 4J
in.,
before
me
is
by i in. in section ; that of the A pattern, 2 in. by J in. i and that of the B pattern, if in. by fin. Patent sash cramps on the same principle are supplied by Mr. Lunt. Of these, Nos. 14 and 16 will be found useful by amateurs. The steel bar of No. 14 is ii in. by in. in section, the length ranges from 24 in. to 42 in., and the price for black bars varies
from
each
is
Rischgitz,
and
published by the
author at
Cambridge
7s. to 12s.,
Lodge Studios, 43, Linden Gardens, Bayswater ; its price is Painting on Tapestry is a decorative art which cannot is.
ij
become popular as it is more quickly done, far less costly, and quite as durable as tapestry produced in the loom or by the needle. In its scope, both as regards subjects and
fail
to
length.
an additional charge of 2s. being made inNo. 16 is of the T pattern, and by | in. in section, and from 30 in. to 60 in. in This pattern is supplied only in black. bars, and
1
8s.,
according to
size.
is
One
that
wide and comprehensive, as any subject may be produced, whether landscape, figures, flowers, or fruit on various tex'ile fabrics, such as cotton, silk, linen, and cloth,
material,
it Li
in,
that
are indelible.
M. Risch-
and no projecting parts to prevent them from lying flat. compelled to hold over two or three notices till next month, owing to want of space.
out,
I
am
342
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
IN COUNCIL.
itself takes time, I venture to hope that my readers will see that it is desirable that they should send in their queries as soon as X>ossible after the issue of each Part, in order that reasonable time may be given to obtain the information that is asked for and that those who kindly take upon themselves to supply information of special character to those who seek it, which cannot I e immediately answered in the usual way, will adopt and follow the same course. Lastly, with reference to our Supplements as many have complained of the inconvenience of the large folding sheets hitherto given in all except one solitary iustance, for the future, when the design under consideration permits, these will be restricted to the size of two pages of the magazine, thus forming folding leaves,
; :
AMATEURS
[The Editor reserves to himself the rigi t of refusing a reply to any question that may be frivolous or inappropriate, or devoid of general interest. Correspondents are requested lo bear in mind that their queries will be answered only in the pages of The Magazine, the information sought being supplied for the benefit of its readers generally as well as for thoBe who have a special intereBtin obtaining t. In no case can any reply be sent by post-]
Velocipedes. Bicyclist. To buy the materials for the tricycle in question, which consists of hubs,
spikes, rims, rubbers, crank, chain and wheels, framework, castings for bearings, and the necessary smith-work, would cost a little over 4. As to bicycle does Bicyclist mean the cost of materials to make up, or does he mean the price of the "Club" and "Rudge" machines? If the latter, the makers' prices are from ltt to 18. If for materials, I don't think he would get them from the above makers but he can get the parts of a good ordinary bicycle, viz., front forks and bearings, backbone and back-fork, handle bar and handles, and spring, complete, fitted up ready for wheels, for 30s. Wheels, front and back, with rubber complete, from 8d. to Is. per inch diameter; pedals, cranks, and saddle, 10s. I got my materials from J. Deney and Son, Wolverhampton, It is the cheapest house I know, and the things were good. In this way the cost would be a little under 4, 10s. You can buy a good useful bicycle
;
TO
MY
READERS.
In order to clear up arrears of correspondence, and to give, as far as it is possible to do so, a reply to letters received during the month of April, up to the 15th, it has been found necessary to substitute eight additional pages of " Amateurs in Council"
for the large folding sheet that is generally issued with each Part as a Supplement. Five pages in the body of the Magazine
have also been devoted to correspondence, so that the present Part contains no less than THIRTEEN PAGES of replies to queries and requests for special information on various subjects of interest to amateurs, a thing unprecedented, not only as regards Amateur Work itself, hut also with reference to any other serial publication of a practical or semi-practical character that exists, or has existed, either in the United Kingdom or the United States. It was hoped that the addition of two pages to each Part of the Magazine would gradually -do away with the necessity of delay in dealing with queries proposed by readers, out as of late the correspondence has greatly increased, it has been judged better "to bring things to a proper level by a single eff ort,which has accordingly been attempted, but not successfully carried out, as there are nearly four pages of replies, etc. in type, which cannot be included in this Part, and must perforce stand over for the next. Now experience has shown that with regard to any Magazine in which answers are given to correspondents in quest of information of any kind, the amount of correspondence is a sure and certain test of the
,
which can be more readily bound up with Large Supplements, however, must ocit. casionally form the exception to this rule, from the fact that the subjects illustrated in them cannot be conveniently compressed
into less space.
Mechanical Toys.
Egroeg. A shortly, which
formation.
series of articles will
appear
in-
will give
Harmonium Reeds for Sale. L. G L. has for sale 19 d'izen harmonium reeds which may be made up into sets by a few extra reeds, 2s. 6d. dozen, or 4 the lot. Will also supply the remaining reeds required at 3s. 3d. per dozen. [L. G. L. does not give his address, without this it is im. possible to communicate with him. Kindly rectify omission. Ed.]
complete from this firm, for 4 10s. Achilles. Of course you cannot remove rust from bicycle-spokes without some labour; but there is not much difficulty in it. Rub the spokes first of all with a cloth saturated in paraffin, let this stand for an hour or two, then wipe off now get another cloth, saturate with ordinary sweet oil, and sprinkle plentifully with fine emery, rub the spokes from end to end with this.
H armonium -building.
Ric.
others.
vitality andhealthyconditionof the publication, and the vstimaiion in which it is held by that
section of
the
general
public
to
which
it
specially appeals.
I will leave
my readers to
apply what I have said to Amateur Work and other Magazines that are, or seek to he, similar to it in character, contenting myself by saying that the entire mass of the correspondence that has appeared in this
Magazine from
first
to last is genuine,
and
that not a single reply has ever been coined, as is sometimes done, either to fill up a spare column or so which cannot well be filled by any other matter, or to throw a fictitious glow of prosperity over the serial
which it by no means possesses. For the future every endeavour will be made to answer all queries received between the 15th of one month and the 15th of the
month next following in the Part that is dated for the month next in order. For example, it will be sought to answer all queries received between April 15th and May 15th in the Part for June. The reason for this is that it is necessary to go to press with the magazinn as soon after the 15th of each mouth as possible, in order to get it ready for publication about a week in advance of the date it bears. Therefore, as
many
which of
cannot be satisfactorily answered, except in articles on making a harmonium larger than that which I have described in my papers. P. B. and O. R. 1. If you cannot get I have found beech, use ash or cherry. both answer. 2. The board directed to be screwed down on top of wind-chest should remain, and not be removed, as stated, and the sound-board should turn down on and hook down to this board with iron hooks firmly. This board also carries the stops Expression, Tremolo, Sordine, Forte, etc. A description of these cannot be sent in a letter contained in the compass of a brief reply to a query. E. T. J. Tour vibrators are not screwed down firm if they do not speak quick to touch they will come better with playing. 2. You can tune them by filing top side of vibrating end to make sharp, or scraping near rivets to make flat. T E. M. (Hackney). The size of the prepared sound-board is 2 ft. 7 in. by 6 in. Keyboard making is quite a separate trade to harmonium building, and a very delicate operation for an amateur to perform. Old pianoforte keys do well. I have never seen or heard of a book on harmonium-building. Vibrator, and others. I am glad to learn of your success. I wish I could give yon the information you ask for, but it cannot be efficiently done in an ordinary answer to correspondents, because some very elaborate drawings would be required.
very deep, use coarser emery When all are rubbed, wipe off with another cloth, then saturate piece of clean cloth in paraffin, and rub a them once more. This will prevent their rusting again in a great measure. It is better to paint them, after which, they only need washing.
If
the rust
is
at the beginning.
lists in
still further simplify the operation by stating that I have twice fallen on my front wheel and buckled it, gathered myself up, placed a knee on each of the high parts, a hand on each of the low parts, and by a slight pull put the wheel correct again. This can easily be done by a single person, which knowledge may save some unlucky rider carrying his machine home.
ing tools suitable for the purpose, and the space thus made, filled in with wood, brass, You will find it etc., accurately cut to fit easier to cut out your design with the fret-
saw in two pieces of wood of different colours by one operation, and then to veneer the solid with one colour, using the
other as inlay.
Preparation of
Wood
for Artists*
Black. H. A. D. (Cork). Rub down the surface with fine glass-paper, and stop all holes and defects with any preparation made for the purpose, before applying the black.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
GJ- 31. IClapham).
343
H. A. P. (Glasgow). The spacing of the channels of the sound-board for the small organ shown in Fig. 5, Part 15, will depend entirely on the length you make it. The only rule is to allow the channels to run larger as the pipes increase in size. The largest channel in the Tenor may be f or $ inch, and the smallest treble inch. The channel bars are all about the same thickness as the channels which they adjoin. The bass pipes are the largest ones, and are made in the same way as the others of the same stop they are described in the
;
pipes is the metal, with the addition of the second sloping- line for the other diameter. The 6 inches is set off from the bottom. The size of inch C of tbe flageolet will be about what yon state. The table for paper pipes applies to the wood pipes also, so there is no need to set one out separately. The mouth of the Lieblieh Gedact may be cut up any height from less than ^ to ^, according to
Organ-Building The scale for wood made exactly the same as that for
Tour
specification
an excellent one. If you can stand to the expense, an oboe in the swell would be an acquisition. Size About 6 feet 6 inches wide, 3 feet 9 inches deep, and 9 feet 6 inches high but it depends on how you arrange your pedal pipes. F. E. K. iPimlico). Ton can remedy your error by allowing the pipes to increase in
:
require common cartridge paper, which will cost about Is. 6d. or 2s. a quire. Hammond, of Walworth Road, or Dean, of IFandsicort h Road, would, no doubt, be glad to supply you with any quantity* About 50 yards of brown paper, and about 5 quires of cartridge, would be sufficient for the four stops you mention. J. J. (Lochie). I presume you intend mating the small organ described in Vol. I., only having all paper pipes instead of wood and metal. If you have not yet made your soundboard, by all means let me advise you to follow the instructions given in Part 15, and make it also with the twelve bass chan-
You merely
gradually, so that the largest pipes only esceed the correct scale by about 2 inch at the most otherwise they will be too loud for a chamber organ, if
;
scale ranch
more
voiced to bring out the tone properly. J. B. {Tyne Kocfcj. The difference between the cost of pine and mahogany for tbe sliders would only be about a couple of shillings, and I should be afraid to trust to the former, as so many holes have to be bored through. You could enlarge the scale of your pipes by cutting them two notes sharper, and mating two extra ones for the lowest note3. As regards the large stopt pipes, you can make them louder by cutting the mouths higher and enlarging the hole at the foot. Experiment on one first until you satisfy yourself. If you don't succeed yon could enlarge the scale as proposed, but I find those I made to scale given answer well. See top of column 2, page 26, as to scale for
bass.
nels at the back. If you adopt the style of action shown in page 273 Part 17, Fig. 60, you may get your organ in a height of little more than 6 feet. Fig. 61, on the same page, and the written instructions accompanying it, will explain how the action is brought under the proper channels, notwithstanding the fact of the soundboard being longer than the keyboard. In the event of using the action below the keyboard, however, Fig. 61 must be looked at from the top, that is, the narrow part of the fan will be at the front instead of the back. White sheepskin must be used. H. T. (Clapton). 1. The dark coloured paper which you enclose will be the best for large pipes. 2. The tuning-caps should increase in length with the size of the pipes,
is immaterial. 3. Two coats of varnish inside the pipes will be better than one coat of size and one coat of varnish. 4. If you have 2^ octaves of pedals
stops mentioned will make a nice little organ, hat it would be better to The keycarry the flute right through. board described in Part 10 will suit you.
articles.
The
C.
J.
C.
means
simply this, that instead of allowing the thickness of the leather to stick up and so be liable to be pulled off by anything that happened to knock against it, you pare the edges away to nothing on the side that you glue, and it then lays close down to the wood when fastened on there is no edge for anything to catch against, it looks better and holds better. The little bellows you have noticed on the wind trunks of large organs are termed concussion bellows, and prevent the sudden rush of wind being felt in the pipes when suddenly changing from loud to soft, or vice versa. The tremulant will be described in due course.
;
B The small organ indicated in Part 15, seems to be a favourite type with our amateurs. Some of the tenor channels could be transferred to the treble end in the same way as described for the larger soundboard. I would suggest that the "oboe" stop in your specification should be carried to tenor C. Slider tbe same width a3 stopt diapason. The holes for the dnlciana and oboe should be about the same as those for the flute. It is better to make them too small than too large, as you have not purchased your pipes. They can easily be enlarged if necessary. C. S. (Clonmel). The American organ differs altogether from the harmonium in construction. The bellows exhaust or suck the wind instead of driving it through the reeds. The reeds are bent in a peculiar manner, and are much thicker than harmonium reeds. In my opinion the American Organ is mnch to be preferred to an ordinary harmonium. Pulsatoe, Okgasobum. 1- The inverted fold is best at the top, but if you have completed the bellows you need not alter it. 2. The Violoncello would be the be3t bass for the two stops you mention. 3. As regards the " chaffing," see answer to J. B. on page 294, Vol. II. Try passing a flat-bladed knife gently down the windway, as that will often effect a cure. J. "W. [Hartlepool]. You could get paper
G. E.
o.
Fi:_'.
they will range from CCC to F, but remember they take a lot of room, and the organ is not very large. "Wait for the chapter on pedals before you decide as to this. 5. A sliding pedal-board will not materially increase the height of the organ. A pedalboard to take out would not increase the height at all. G. F. D. iYoughal). -Thomas "Willis, of the Minories, London, will supply you with
all
Leather for Organ-Building. Amicus wishes to inform amateur organbuilders, that they
ally
may
prepared for piano, harmonium, and organ work, at 24, Duke Street, Bloomsbury, W.C. [Thank you for your good opinion of Amateur. Work. Ed.]
John
you require.
"Write to
him
for a price
list.
D. H. F. R. The stops you mention will be very well balanced, but would be better if you break them at Tenor C instead of middle C. Two other stops could be added, and might all be blown by foot power.
T. J. ( Yemdale) . Designs for organ fronts will be given, from which you will no doubt be able to get what you require. You do not say how many or what stops you have on your small organ. The size of wind-trunk
writes : I have only just seen thisinonth's Amateur "Woek, and observe the notice as to " Paper Organ Pipes," and so write to inform you my address is as given above.
Relievo Maps.
"W. Collett.
Tour first remark regarding the geology of the hills in question is correct. The error
was not discovered
a clerical one, which until too late to be rectified. Your second objection does not hold good, the hills being outliers of the great
was, in the
first place,
sufficient
for three
A. L. (Stoke Newin.gton).l. The leather should have two or three coats of glue as it soakB in so much. 2. Half-strained sheepskin is specially prepared for organ builders, and is different to unstrained. 3. There is nothing behind the wind- chest except tbe cartridge paper glued on the channels. The thin lines (Fig. 2 on the sheet of details) show the end cheeks, which extend right across so as to rest on the building frame. Fig. 49, on page 223, should be the same scale as Fig. 48, and the top piece in Fig. 40 should be the same width as the lower one instead of 3-J inches as printed.
range of tbe North Downs. If you examine any good map of the district (for example, Stanford's Physical Map of England and Wales, price 6d., or the Ordnance Survey), beginning at Dover and tracing the heights, sometimes chalk, sometimes greensand,
etc., to
Farnham, you
will
admit
:
this.
To
Follow the the modeller we would say chalk outlines through the whole of the length of the range, for, although denuded of the chalk which formerly overlaid them, they still retain the soft undulations or
rounded shapes of their original structure. It should be understood that the table on page 109, Amateur "Work, is intended only as a general guide for contours, heights and
locations.
344
Renovating Old Prints, Etc. A. B. E. A series of papers on " The Renovation of Old Prints, Drawings, and Oil Paintings, with the colouring, mounting, and varnishing of maps and plans," by John Brion, is nearly completed, and will appear in due course. The best varnish for oil paintings is mastic. Take care to buy of a well-known firm, as Winsor & Newton, or Beeves & Son, London, as the invaluable mastic is ofttimes seriouslyadulterated with inferior gums, which cause opacity, cracking, etc. If our correspondent can wait the appearance of our papers on the subject, we think it will be to his advantage, as the best methods of preparing an oil painting for varnishing, as well as the modus operandi of the varnishing itself, will be given.
Polishing Floors. (Lower Tooting). The ordinary and in some respects the best polish for stained floors, is ompo3ei of beeswax [1 pounds, turpentine 1 pint, resin 5 ounces, melted together. Full directions for varnishing fluid polishing such floors are given at page
P.
AMATEURS IN
B.
COUNCIL.
Loosening Tightened Screw. Taliesin Jones. Screws should always be oiled or greased before they are driven in. H the position of the screw admits, put some oil on the screw-head, and round it, and applv a Little gentle heat ; if in a position that does not admit of the application of the oil, heat the screw-head with the blow-pipe, and when it cools, it will be found easier to remove. H. M. H. writes and this is apropos to the enquiry made by Taliesin Jones: I might perhaps mention, in reference to a paragraph in " Ways and Means " (January Number) where a blow-pipe is recommended as a good way "to loosen screws rusted in," that whenever I have had occasion, I have always used a red-hot poker, and never failed to obtain a satisfactory result, even in the case of refractory nuts, when inaccessible to a spanner, with suffi-
Plumber's Joints.
{South Hackney), The metal iB an alloy of one part tin to two parts of leadequal parts of both metals are used by some. The ends of the pipes are scraped bright and clean, then the limit" of the joint is marked by a ring of lampblack and size.
W.
greased pad of moleskin is held in the left hand so as to cover the hand, the melted met-il is poured from a handy iron ladle (held in the right hand) on the joint, and the soft metal is wiped into the egg shape with the pad of moleskin. This is only a general direction for the job more specific directions will be given in articles bearing on the subject; but it must be noted that experience is the only teacher that canteach you to make a good plumber's joint.
;
Oak Mouldings
W.
work.
Imitation of Walnut.
L. [Golbome). A description of the method of imitating walnut-wood in graining will be given in the series !of papers entitled "House Painting and Papering." If you have never tried your hand at graining, I am afraid you will not manage to paint your ohest of drawers in this style to your satisfaction. I therefore recommend you to stain ,the wood work with Stephens' Walnut Staiu, and then varnish or French
are in pine. You will not be able to purchase mouldings in oak, any where at least, I have never seen or heard of ready-made mouldings in this material for cabinet-work, and you will be obliged to get a cabinetmaker to prepare them for you if you cannot make them yourself.
cient length of arm to obtain the necessary power. It is needless to mention, perhaps, but in the latter case, care must be taken
that the red-hot poker is placed in contact with the nut only, and not allowed to touch the male screw.
W.
Jersey Readers.
Attention
Finsbury Street, Chitfor the Patent " Standard " Instantaneous Grip Bench Vice, writes :" I received a letter from Jersey for one of my catalogues, but the name of the applicant was omitted. I think it very likely that he is one of your
S.
(1,
Thomas
Syer,
London agent
readers.
If so,
and he
will
send
me
his
name and
ward
polish.
Painting and Graining. Camberwell. Actual specimens of wood and marble will afford the best patterns for imitation. There is a book, by Ellis A. Davidson, published by Messrs. Crosby Lockwood and Co., Stationers' Hall Court,
Ludgate Hill, E.C., entitled "House Painting and Groining," 6s,, which may be of use to you.
address, I shall be glad to forcatalogue to him. I have been waiting, expecting he would write again.
my
Draught Table. P. G. [Peckham). Do not spoil the top of your polished mahogany table, but make a top of deal to fit over it, and veneer this with black walnut and holly for the draught board, surrounding the great central square with a border of lighter colour. For instructions on making a cheap garden frame that will be both strong and serviceable, see " Every Man His Own Mechanic," page 450. This is in Part VIII. of the work, which ycu can buy for 6d.
Can you put this in a spare corner of your magazine? [With pleasure, Mr. Syer. Ed.]
Block Planes. Inquirer. In reply to this and other correspondents who have asked what a
block plane " is, I may say that the peculiarity of planes thus called consists in the cutter being placed at a very acute angle for cutting across the grain of wood. Block planes are of American origin and make, and can be had from Messrs. Charles Churchill & Co., 21, Cross Street, Finsbury, EC. The best in the market are Bailey's Excelsior Block Planes, which are adjustable by a screw and lever movement. A good plane of Bailey's make for general use is 6 inches in length with 1J inch cutter, the price being Ss. 6d or with rosewoodhandle 7s. 6d. The Stanley Iron Block Planes are cheaper. A small one 3J inches long with 1 inch cutter, can be had for Is. ; 5\ inches long with 1J inch cutter, 2s. ; in the same size, adjustable, for 3s. ; 7 inches long with 1 inch cutter, 3s., or same size, adjustable, This kind of plane was first introduced 4s. as a convenient tool for fret-sawyers, picture -frame makers, etc., but it has proved so valuable to mechanics in all the lighter kinds of wood working, that it has come into general use in the United States.
Price of Overhead for Lathes. The Britannia Company, Colchester, write to say that the price of their new overlathes, noticed in "Notes on Novelties," in Part XVII., up to 4 feet is
head for 5
5s., 6 feet
would be 6
6s-.
Gelatine Moulds for Plaster. C. T. (Bristol). Best sheet gelatine 1 pound, beeswax \ ounce, water pint, boil together to a thick syrup and pour them over the plaster model whilst still moderately warm. The model should first be slightly greased with hog's lard. C. T. is referred to page 388, Vol. I. Amateur
Wobk,
reproduce them, beautiful as they supplement to this magazine. E. A. S. adds, that if F. T. (India Office) will address, as per initials given, 6, Tamar Terrace, Saltash, he will forward a book of designs for the use of himself and his
sible to
are, as a
friends.
all
parts
well together,
and are
bright and clean. Bind them in their position with iron wire, or clamp them with iron acrew clamps. Make a paste with powdered borax and water, mix a quantity of soft brass
with the borax paste, intended joints with the mixture. Gently heat up the article in a clear fire of charcoal, or coke, or by means of a blowpipe on a composition support of
filings (brass spelter)
whiting or
whitewash.
2.
Better use up
all
fire
Increase the beat until the article is red hot, and the spelter runs into the joints, then allow the article to cool down. More specific instructions for this and similar jobs will be forthcoming in future articles.
D.
W.
Work, but
your small pieces of soap as far as you can. If you are determined to try to put them together, melt the pieces in a vessel set in a water-bath, and scent with any essential oil, for which you may have a fancy, adding 3. A it gradually, and stirring all the time. great deal has been said already in the pages of this magazine about varnish for different kinds of woods, French polishiDg, etc.
COUNCIL,
345
made with a small lamp reputed to be a Swan lamp, and information obtained from
vendors of such lamps. He has since discovered that the lamp was not made by the Swan Company but it is only right to say that the table relatiug to the Swan Incandescent Electric Lamps on page 462, Vol. I., was compiled from information obtained by a friend from the engineer of the company. It is however a fact, as you observe, that fully seven Bunsen cells in series is needed to develop a light of five-candle power in an incandescent lamp, and you might have added that few lamps of a stated candle power will bear enough current to develop the full light ascribed to them. It would be a bad set of ten sperm candles that did not give a better light than a ten candle lamp gives just when at its best, and before total disruption of the carbon.
;
AMATEURS IN
Electrical Matters. E. S. (Cannes). Dynamo -electric machines made up for the purpose give a
J. J.
better current for plating- than that obtained from a battery. A Daniell is the best plating battery. Carbon, or best gas-cote, may be used in lieu of copper, if this metal is not obtainable. The process of siDgle cell plating- which you saw, is a slovenly and wasteful process, now almost obsolete. Ton will have seen some instructions for making' a small induction coil these will be amplified and improved in some futurearticles. If the needle of the galvanometer had been placed horizontally it would be too sensitive. The instrument is simply a vertical needle current detector, not an astatic galvanometer. Carbon pencils for the electric light are made by a process too difficult to be carried
1
freedom of action. The brass spring may be bent to any curve, and with the adjusting contact screw be made to regulate the armature to any distance from the magnet. Respecting the telephone, I have understood that patent rights are not infringed unless the instrument is used for other than experimental purposes. Thos. J. O'Connor and "Watch- Jobber.
Electric Clocks.
An article is in hand on mating Electric Clocks, and controlling clocts by electricity. This shall appear
out by amateurs. Tour flasks will mate very good retorts wherein to carry on distillation of water, etc. The other matter
shall receive attention.
P. J. H. The articles on dynamo-machines have been delayed by pressure of other matter on the space at my command. The promise shall be fulfilled as soon as lean get elbow-room It is intended to enlarge, not only the coil, but the subject, at some future time. The cells must be coupled up to suit the resistance of the wire. A short thin wire will become incandescentwith a current from four or five Bonsens coupled in series i.e., ** intensity." Long thick wires will require large cells, or their equivalent in small cells coupled up for " quantity." I consider the arrangement known as Dale's to be the most powerful and constant. G. A. M. (Oakham). There has been either an article, or some information on the subject in this department, in every issue of
as soon as space can be spared for it. Electrician. Phonograph. The mouthpiece of the phonograph is formed in a similar manner to that of the telephone, with this exception, that a larger surface of the ferrotype plate is free to move in the former than in the latter, the plate being held between two rings at its circumference. The style may be made out of the blunt end of a needle soldered to a thin brass spring one end of this is clipped by a screw near the circumference of the ferrotype diaphragm, and the other end carrying the style is free to vibrate behind the centre of the diaphragm. Full particulars cannot be given here, but I may resume the subject shortly. Phos. The number of Fuller cells in series required to mate the platinum wire white hot will depend in a great measure on the fineness and length of the wire. See reply to P. J. H. If you pack the outer cell of the Fuller with broken carbon it would be improved for the purpose required by you, and if the zinc rods were .replaced by cylinders or rolled plates of amalgamated zinc a further improvement will be observable. Papers on making electro and other magnets will be forthcoming when space can be found for them.
Magneto Battery.
E. J. F. (Dals'.on). If you will oblige with a description of your battery or machine, I will endeavour to render you some assisAt the present time there are so tance. many different forms of apparatus claiming the names of galvanic, electric, or magnetic batteries and machines, that it is necessary to see them, or an accurate description of each, before one can decide on their merits, or suggest means for improvements.
its
as well as
commencement. amused ?
E. Robinson (Rochdale). The Wimshurst It is not my intention to take up the subject of electric machines (for the present, at least) , because other more important matters press for prior treat-
Dynamo -Machine. Small Dynamomachines for lighting from two to five incandescent lamps can be obtained for about 8 or 10 from Messrs. Oppermann, 172,
John's Street, London, E.C; Messrs. Patrick & Sou, 529, King's Road, Chelsea; and Messrs. H. & E. J. Dale,4, Little Britain, London, E.C.
St.
Dale's Granule Battery. Electrified Lawtkr Thanks for your letter. I am pleased to hear of your success with the battery. The mercury did not oxidize, but formed an amalgam with the finely divided zinc produced in working the cell. Try an optician for the small iron tube. A larger condenser will tend to make a.longer, brighter, and thinner spart. See reply to
Magneto.
ment.
C. P. {Northampton). Storage Batteries or Accumulators. Other readers beside your-
wiih to know how to make up these and I may oblige with an article on the subject at some future time ; but I would like to know from you
self
Making Carbon for Elrcteical Pur Were you a reader in an obscure corner of the world, I should feel much pleasure in assisting you to mate the carposes.
batteries,
all, what you really expect from a storage battery other than can be got from an ordinary voltaic battery ? If any of my readers can show me that it would be useful to them, I will devote a little time to the subject. G. A. M. Baker.- Hygrometer. The flagstaff may be as high as your taste may determine. Say 5 inches above the roof-
bons, but I should do you or any other amateur residing in such a city as Manchester a wrong if I encouraged you to attempt the manufacture of carbon plates or rods;
W.
J.
H.
Carbon eminently suitable for your purpose is regarded as a drug in gas worts; you may buy it in the rough state at a very cheap rate, and cut it up yourself. The process is a similar one to that mentioned by you, but why attempt it ?
Electro- gilding Solution. V. (Ambleside) Byusing a weat battery and heating the solution to 160 Fah., using a strip of gold for an anode, you may gild articles in the solution as made up by you. You have failed in making it up right, but in this you have only followed in the track of others, and gilding is done with worse solutions. I hope to treat you and other readers to an article on
.
YouhaveDOt
C
S.
A
W.
acted wisely in trusting to weight of armature alone to recover contact ; in fact, it is just possible that the armature is too heavy for the magnet. Make a lighter armature ; fasten a thin brass spring to the back, and attach that to a small post midway between the post that holds the contact screw and that which acts as a pivot to the quadrant carrying the hammer shaft and the armature. It will be well to attach one of the wires to this post instead of the pivot-post, and thas allow the latter more
a couple of coats of Pulford's " Iron Damp "Wall Peint," which may be obtained at the rate of 6d. per lb., in quantities of not less than 7 lbs., at 77, Cannon Street, E.C.
Cleaning Shells.
A. B. (South Wales) .Rub the shells with a rag dipped in hydrochloric acid, and continue the process until the outer coat is removed. Then wash in warm water, dry in hot saw-dust, and rub with chamois leather to impart a polish.
Electro-gilding soon.
John Kean. Electric Light. Tou are heartily thanked by the writer of the article in question for your kindly criticism. His
conclusions
were based on
experiments
34^
Griffith's
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
Patent
Saw
:
J. T. F. {Brixton) writes
my
testimony to that of W. E. C. (Southsea), that the above are par excellence, the finest blades ever brought out for fret-cutters. I have used every number from to 10 inclusive, and they are a pleasure to work, every tooth being " set," the saw never clogs, and appears to fly through the wood, no ugly burr all on one side, as in the Swiss and German blades, to cause your saw to continually leap off the line. All I have introduced them to, declare they will use no other for the future and yet what antipathy is shown to a new idea because it emanates from an American. I have tried nearly every shop in London for them, and without success and in some places got roundly laughed at, and ridiculed for asking for such a thing. I enclose a piece or two for your inspection. Should you not have met with them, you will readily see the difference in the two makes. It may benefit our readers if I state they can be
; ;
Printing for Amateurs. E. I>. (C'olisbwr</h). In reply to your query I will do all I can to bring about a continuous appearance of the articles on " Printing for Amateurs." The third chapter appears in this Part. The specimen of printing that you send is most creditable to you, and far above the average of work turned out by amateur printers.
F. P. (Woodford\ Clean rollers should be kept in an air-tight box, and supported so that the composition does not come in contact with anything. The temperature should always be about the same as that of the room they are used in. If no air-tight place is available, roll up thickly in ink, and allow the ink to remain on the surface when required again for use scrape off the ink with a blunt knife. If needed wash with turps or benzoline, and roll up thinly with fresh ink. The ink hardens into a skin which protects the roller.
;
F, (Paisley). The Colin-Mezin violin not by any means inferior to any violins of modern manufacture as regards their workmanship. They are, however, made in large quantities, and do not aim at being anything more than a first-class, and wellis
W.
fitted warehouse violin. E. E. L. S. Hopf is an inferior German maker. His violins which are manufactured wholesale for the trade, are hardly superior to the Mirecourt fiddles. G.B.T. (Folkestone). I should advise you to get " The Violin How to Master it. By (London, 1882, a Professional Player." Simpkin, Marshall.) And Baillot's or De
:
J.You
you
want
in Vol. I.,
resx>ondents.
from MessrB. Churchill, and from Harger Bros., Goldielands, Settle, Yorks, who
had.
first
introduced them
to
me
quite
un-
Clkbicus. It is intended to complete and supply all the articles on printingat an early date. They will then appear as rapidly as the editor can find space for them. The
Sound-post. Turner is a somewhat obscure English maker. His violins, which are of second-class, have but little value.
solicited
J. M. H. (AlnwicTc). These fret-saw blades can be obtained from Messrs. C. Churchill
Dulcimer Making. Constant Eeader, P. A piece of oak ie to be fixed on each side, and come up flush with the top and bottom pieces this forms
;
and
Co.,
21,
Messrs. R. Melhuish
293,
&
Kent and
procure
it.
Co.,
Euston Road, N.W.; Messrs. Harger Bros., Settle, Yorks ; Messrs. F. H. Sandereon & Co., 7, East Road, Cambridge; and
Violin -Making.
thickness in the
from most dealers in hardware tools and carpenters' ironmongery in town and
country.
Preservation of Eggs.
E. P. E. (West Barnet) writes: In page 145 of the present volume of Amateur "Work, H. J. A. writes a long letter on the " Preservation of Eggs." He begins with this remark "While wishing every success to your excellent magazine, may I be ex:
centre of the belly of a new violin should be I inch. 2. The edges shown in the diagram allow for cutting on the outline in cutting out the model, and for subsequent operations which will tend to reduce them.
It is always good to have
a ledge all round. What need for pieces to be put on all four sides ? The belly is all in one piece, and screwed on to the top and bottom the wires, when put on, will hold the sides down. H. Stone (Argyllshire). Yes, you may make a dulcimer less than the one described, but I should prefer one about two-thirds the size, as if you made it half the size, the wires at the top would be so very short. I, like you, should be very glad if someone
;
on a new
fiddle.
3.
1^
would
zither.
give
instructions
for
making a
cused if I point out, what seems to me, a rather ridiculous remark," and he ends with the following: "When a paper is so good, a small fault is easily detected, and when a thing is so good, a fault is the less able to be borne." Now, I wish to show H.J. A., that in trying to make out W.B.J. ignorant and ridiculous, H. J. A. shows that he is evidently unaware that there is any other kind of paraffin besides the common petroleum which is burnt in lamps now, if he had carefully read Amateur Work from the commencement, he would know that there is a solid paraffin which has neither taste nor smell, such as is used to insulate electrical apparatus, page 186, Vol. I. It is a great pity that correspondents rush to pen and ink before they know what they are writing about; to think we are right is no use in a magazine like this we ought to be positive. I hope
; ;
4. "Violin-Making: As it Was, and Is," began in Part II. of Amateur Work, and has continued ever since.
Pattern-maker. I can speak for beech and oak, having used both with success. The wood used requires to be so hard as tobear the pegs driving pretty tight in, and
resist the strain when the instrument is being tuned. F. Y. Drummond. You are right, the top piece must be 26 inches long, and uot 20. I made the mistake, and did not notice it until pointed out by you. I am glad to* hear you have succeeded in making one, as, until just before writing the instructions, I had always made the instruments smaller, and with only one bridge, the middle one j but, seeing that the instrument could be improved, I made one a little larger, and introduced the other two bridges and halfnotes with what success you already know.
;
J. F. (Abergavenny). 1.
The
cupping, round the edges is the arching models, but will be produced as set down in a future chapter. 2. See answer to J. V. (Dublin). 3. The thicknesses must be arrived at, as will be explained in a future chapter. The thicknesses given are taken from an old and seasoned Strad.
J. Skinner, (Ealing Dean). I shall be happy to see your fiddle, and give you an opinion on it if you will leave it at Mr.
Wardour Street, before 5 p.m. on the first Wednesday in May. K. C. (Bradford). The best books on the
Hill's, in
W. E.
Lily Mirror.
J.
violin are
others
see this correction will take the hint, and if they feel inclined to find fault with advice kindly given, that they will
who
Forster, and Davidson. They may be had of any bookseller. opusculum on the violin was printed in limited edition for private circulation only.
My
enquire whether their own want of knowledge on the particular subject is not the cause, before they call the writer ignorant. [Another writer, who hails from St. Augustine, Florida, U.S., has also commented on H. J. A.'s remarks. Ed.]
first
Epidermis. 1. Tour first query being on a subject foreign to Amateur Work cannot be answered in the pages of this Magazine. The proper course for you to adopt will be to apply to a medical man, who will tell you all you wish to know on the subject. 2. You are quite right, the length of the bow (20 in.) in the January number, [is a
is, of course, to be obtained at any oil and colour warehouse, or upholsterer's, but the bevelled at only a few places. The "Furniture Gazette," published weekly, generally has advertisements of these. See Part XIII., Page 98.
glass
B. E.
well, and works fairly clean. I have just had a carrier made in it, but did not ebonise it myself. The back numbers of
several directions
Page
43, Vol. I.
AMATEURS IN
Adjunct to Carpenter's Bench. A. E. ISoham) writes: The adjunct to carpenter's bench mentioned by Half Jack,
COUNCIL.
handle of the jet
;
347
is cut off, and a hole through until it meets the hole in the plug one end of the tap is stopped, and
drilled
Alpha
Whilst
to the other a portion, of the blow-pipe is affixed; the top (where the handle was) is screwed iuto a plate of brass, which forms
nsed by most carpenters, but it is not made with three pieces of wood, as he states; it is cut out of one piece, as in the anneied diagram.
is
the bottom of the air box, as will be seen by the figure. The other is very simple and needs no description. The one illustrated in Fig. 2 was lent me by a friend, aud I do-
know the maker; the other answers well both for brazing and soldering.
not
is
description of a simple holdfast bench stop. It not, I believe, a new contrivance, al-
INFORMATION SUPPLIED.
Soldering Solution.
(Bundalk) writes : I see a. questions asked about this solution, and all seem to recommend muriatic acid. Certainly this acid does its work well, but the vapour caused by the iron, affects the eyes very much. In soldering tin, nothing is better than powdered resin, as it does not cool the iron so quiek as the fluids, but for iron, brass, zinc, etc., Baker's preparation is good, and does not affect the eyes in the least degree. For soldering gold, use Venice turpentine.
T. J. O'C.
though
great
many
FIG.
I.
or steel about 6 inches long, 1| inches broad, and less than { inch in thickness, toothed at one end, slightly bent, and fixed in the manner shown in the figure. It grips
spirit
A, Air-box.
apparatus I use for the purpose. The accompanying rough sketch will give an idea of the great advantages it has over the ordinary rushes, especially for gas-fitting and making joints in water pipes, even
FTG.
2.
DIAGRAM
BENCH
SHOWING USE OF
STOP.
of a bench-knife,
the
and keeps it from drawing back with the plane, and when necessary, may be screwed
Hand -Bells.
Self -Helper recommends Willing to Help to try Goff, 22, King Street, Covent Garden. Almost anything can be got from him, and if you send him a couple of stamps, if he has not a set on sale, he will doubtless obtain you a list he is most obliging.
;
down
way.
Staining Wood.
"W. J. S. writes :A good stain for wood in imitation of black ebony, is oil of vitriol
diluted with water, rubbed on the wood and held before the fire until it is dark enongh. To stain wood in imitation of rosewood Boil chips of logwood in water, allowing the water to boil until there is very little of it left then add more water, boil again and rub it on the wood as hot as you can. Then take a solution composed of iron nails steeped in vinegar, and trace the grain of the rosewood on the red stain with a pointed stick. This will turn black, and serves, as I have said, to show the darkest markings of the grain, knots, etc. Nest take a small piece of sponge, or a fine brush, and draw it from top to bottom of the black lines on
: ;
Stop Diapason Tenor C, 1 15s. Voicing any of the aboveC C, 1 15s.; Tenor C, 15s. Keraulophon Tenor C, 1 5s. Spotted metal, 20 per cent, additional.
W, Methylated
MARKINGS ON STAINED WOOD.
Spirit; T, India-rubber
Tube.
[In doing anything of this kind, the amateur should have a piece of the wood he
where pressure (hence strength} is required; the apparatus, Fig. 1, is made by Mr. Hughes, of 22, Chichester Road, Kilhurn, and consists of an ordinary pipe jet and blow-pipe- The
;;
348
Circular Saw Table. F. W. E. (Southport) . Perhaps the rough sketch I send will help J. R. K. The wood should be hard, and not less than 5 inch
AMATEURS IN
COUNCIL.
mortise the table top to the stand, this likewise implies to support E. If herequirea a fence to his table, Fig. 4 is a very good one, and easy to make a is 6 inches long
;
table tilted back to allow the entrance of the saw ; when lowered, it can be secured in front by means of a pin. When once the table is set in relation to the saw, a tongue*
c,
fitting between the sides of lathe bed, should be screwed to under side of frame j
'
i,
A
!!
B
this will prevent delay in future usage, aB the table can then be dropped into place
0,
right
off. If J. R. K. has plenty of centre height he may get the saw in without cutting or hinging the table. I have similar gear to my lathe, made of inch mahogany, and it answers very well with 4 inch centres.
FIG. 3-
FIG.
A, Surface of Table
and the guide preferably of metal, though hard wood will do. For a 6 inch
thick,
sends tbe following reply to R. K. (Islandmore, Croom) who is very vague in the description he gives of his lathe ; he does not so much as tell us the
Hebewahd
A, Table Top; B, Saw Spindle; C, Saw; 1*, Fence, and 1 iDch by 1 b fixed to it upon the bottom side, the screws regulate its distance from saw. The rough sketch iB not to scale, but of course, J. R. K. makes work-
Baw, the table should be about 15 inches long and 10 inches broad. A plug similar to that of a T-rest should project
FIG. 4.
MOVABLE
FENCE.
;
A, Fence
FIG.
S,
Saw.
FIG.
2.
A, Surface of Table
C,
Plug
from the under side of the near end of table, and will fit into the rest socket this can also he made of wood, and screwed to
;
height of centre, but supposing it to be about 5, or 4fr inches, the plan shown in the accompanying illustrations will suit him admirably. Although not handsome, it is very strong, and will bear almost any weight upon the table, this in itself is
ing-drawings of any job he is about to undertake if not, I should certainly recommend him to do so with this, suiting de;
shows
the table, as in section. Care should be token that the slots for the saw do not reach
as far as the plug. Amigo. {Pembroke Voclt) sends the followng reply to J. R. K. (Islandmore, Croom). The accompanying sketch illustrates an idea for wooden table for circular saw. The
:=r:z=ic
A
-V-
<
FIG. 2.
A
elevation, Fig. 1, will show the construction at a glance. The bolt belonging to T-rest
A, Bed of Lathe; B, Saw Spindle; C, Table Top D, Wedge to tighten Table to Bed E, Support for Table.
for fastening down. To get the saw in place a moveable piece must befitted in table as shown at a, Figs, land 2. Clearance for the spindle must he cut as
may be employed
shown
at b, so that the saw may be kept as high as possible. Instead of the sliding piece a, a hinge may be fixed at d, and the
a great advantage besides, it is one he can make himself, and all of wood. A glance at the plan will show him how it is made, the shaded parts are cut out of a solid piece of wood, or two pieces screwed together in a line with the saw all this can be done with He can either screw or the hand-saw.
;
AMATEURS IN
COUNCIL.
349
FIG.
i.
FRONT ELEVATION.
350
m
FIG. 4.
<=>
A, Lengthened Mandrel B, Tapering Chuck 0, Edge of Lathe Table. Al shows where K of Fig. 3 is fastened.
10 inches long.
8 inches long.
\oC
/e
Q
3
&
O
1,
'
\JL
FIG.
I.
FIG.
A, Piece of sheet iron to be fastened with small screws on wood of same shape. B, Piece of % oak (planed true) fixed at right angles to A at a a. C, Thumb-screw which fastens whole guide ; c, small plate let into the table, and in which C screws.
F, F, Stands let into wooden plate fastened to lathe table by thumb-screw; G, Slit for saw H, Sliding Guide ; K, Piece of wood fastened by thumbscrew to edge of lathe table, and to saw table by legs L, L.
Wwv
yJ*J'
^"^^v,
1 in. long.
FIG. 2.
FIG.
D, Tapering chuck on which saw is mounted, and screwed up tight with nut and washers E, Piece of turned steel, 5 inches long, with female screw, e, to fix on mandrel, and male, F f on which chuck, E, with screw cut at d is fixed.
;
35
hinged, to c to the back (long and supported in front by % in. bolts, tapped whole length, each with two nuts and washers, as shown n. Bolts are fitted to a by a fillet, the heads of bolts sunk into fillet and under side of a, and fillet screwed on. e shows narrow strip, to form tray to catch sawdust. The whole held on to lathe-bed by bolt (passed through b) from T-rest holder. If nuts are made to run easy on bolts, they may be tightened and Bet by the fingers. Gsaham writes in reply to J. R. K. (Croom) Use an ordinary box with a lid hinged to the front and overlapping all
c,
;
AMATEURS IN
a
is
COUNCIL.
Brass Chessmen.
back
tail
hinges),
I may observe that I have seen far heavier lathes mounted on wood, and some very heavy work done in them. With reference to the sketch, Fig. 1 is a front
but
Geaham
Wm.
ham.
writes in reply to K. "W.: Try Tonks & Son, Moaeley Street, Birming-
elevation, Fig. 2 au
rouud, holes being cut in the sides to admit the saw-spindle. Screw a tenon on the bottom to fit the lathe bed, and use a holding-down bolt as usual. Fit to the back of box a screw to raise or lower the lid. When made, put box in place with lid open, close it gradually, so that the saw cuts its own kerf, the spindle being mounted between centres. An article on saw-tables is in hand, vide reply to E. P. H., p. 197.
3 a plan of the fixings required, e is the bed, made of oak or other well seasoned wood, two lengths 6 inches by 9 inches by 6 feet long, bolted together at the ends with | or \ inch bolts bb, embracing the feet r, as shown. The bed and feet need not be fastened down to the stand unless very shaky in the construction. The stand should also be made of oak well fitted together with cross bars between the legs, as shown at c, Fig. 2. The cross bars at 1 and
Fig. 1, will also have to carry the fly. wheel, and must have plates fitted on the inside to carry the centres for the spindle. For the rocking shaft of the treadle, bearings must be fixed to the back legs, and the shaft can be carried right along the three and a treadle fitted between each pair of legs, if a long bed is required. The legs especially 1 and 2 should be bound together under the feet by strong hoop iron, so that the lateral pressure of the fly-wheel spindle may be resisted: The hoop iron can be let into the feet flush or even with the sole, so that the stability may be maintained. The stand may be made a foot or so longer than required, so that a vice may be fixed nt one end. This would be found very handy in connection with the work. I shall be most happy to furnish any further information, if required.
2,
Ramrod Fixed
Graham
In
Gun
Barrel.
writes in reply to "W. H. C.: Pour into the barrel some olive oil, take hold of end of ramrod with a hand-vice, and try to turn it one way or other. If thia wont do, take off the breach and push the
Cutting and Gilding Picture Mounts. Self-Helper (Bradford, Yorks.) replies to Rishton as follows: The tools used to cut mounts are (1) a mount-cutting knife ;
this
is a straight piece of steel, with the end brought to a sharp cutting edge, and pointed, and is fastened into a suitable handle with a screw it may be made by an amateur for about 8d. or 10d.; but I could Lever buy one for less than 2s., and have been asked 3s. 9d. for one. (2) A steel straight-edge, 2 to 3 feet long, and with one bevelled edge, a ruling pen, pencil, and a Commence by trimming your foot rule. cardboard (which will cut white through the whole thickness ; for common work, or where it is to be a gilt bevel, common mount board will do, this does not cut white all through) to the required size, allowing for margin wanted; mark out the size of your mount exactly in the centre with faint pencil mark, then take your straight-edge and place the edge sufficient distance from the mark, to give the proper angle to the bevel. After making sure all is firm, take the mount-cutting knife in your hand, in the same manner you would take a dagger, when making an imaginary stab downwards, enter the point at the farthest end of mark from you, and make a firm clean cut towards you, turn your board round and repeat each side in the same way, taking care to cut well up into the corners if round or oval mounts, use your compasses, and proceed accordingly, always cutting towards you. Gold ink made asfoDows, is often used for the gold linea round mounts: 24 leaves of gold, oz. bronze gold, 30 drops spirits of wine, 30 grains pure honey, 4 drachms gum arabic (white), 4 ozs. rain water; the gold must be rubbed with the gum and honey, and the whole mixed with the water, and then add the spirit. Put on with ruling-pen, with aid of straight-edge, or in case of oval, use a pair of compasses with the pe:a in. Goldleaf should be used for the bevel for good work, but instructions on this point must be reserved for a future occasion.
;
Circular
Saw on
Lathe.
:
E. A. F. (Cromer) writes In reply to E. P. H. iSvrbiton) y who seeks information about mounting a circular saw on his lathe, perhaps the following, as done by my brother and myself, may be useful: "We have a " Eureka " 5 inch lathe, and had a 4 inch circular saw we wished to mount. We first of all mounted it on a small chuck (1J inch long) with a tapering screw and a nut, to take emery-wheels, etc.; this, of course, we found to be almost useless, as it allowed so little space between the saw and pulley, so we got our ironmonger to have a piece (5 inches long, excluding screw) turned with a male and female-screw to fit
Cycling
Matters.
W. B. In America they strap a bag or a parcel of books on top of handle bar of bicycle, I have not yet seen any contrivance
for holding a bag in this country. It would not be difficult to make some fastening for a bag, but the bag would be of very limited capacity. As to the construction of the bag itself (saddlery is quite out of my line), "W. B. should consult Lamplough & Brown, Great Colemore Street, Birmingham. F. M. (Gray's Inn Road). About the best
the mandrel and chuck we then brought the back poppit up to the end of the chuck (which is bored also for small drills), and our saw was complete. E. P. H. should be careful to get his saw properly set and
;
sharpened. The table we made of Vs inch walnut, with thin deal screwed on it across the grain underneath, to prevent warping, making a slit for the saw; it has two supports at the back, let into a thick piece of wood, which is fastened to the table by an ordinary thumb-screw, the other end is the same, but as it projects over the lathetable, the thumb-screw fastens it to the edge of the table; the whole table is 22 inches long by 15J inches wide. As a guide, we have a piece of sheet-iron with a slit, on the end of which is fastened a piece of inch oak, about 8 inches long (we secured the iron on a piece of wood to make it firmer) the whole works up and down by another thumb -screw. The whole thing can be detached from lathe in less than five minutes.
place to buy all material for tricycles is J. Devey & Son, Wolverhampton. Large
rims
10s;
3s. small Is. 6d. finished hubs, large, to 12s. 6d.; small 4s. to 5s.; spokes, straight and headed, 4s per set. Send for Devey's price list.
;
J. (Peterhead)
.Such a machine
as I speak
known as the direct action Nationa] Royal. Its advantages are, less weight and fewer bearings than a chain-geared tricycleThe rider is also directly over the cranks, and has greit power in propulsion. Its disadvantages are great height of seat, consequently centre of gravity very high. For careful steering by a trained rider the machine is very good, but sudden turnings or accidental turning of the steering handle is almost sure to result in a side spill. In this respect my opinion is it is less safe than a bicycle, unless the progress is very slow. The steering wheel is always in rear.
of is
Polish Used
by Chair-Makers.
best
work
lb.
white shellac, 1 pt. spirits of wine; this isquite a white polish, if darker is required, use yellow shellac. To put a gloss on
Truing- Grindstone.
T. J. O'C. (Dundalk) writes Delta asks for information as to the truing of a grindBtone. I have often trued up mine quite
:
benzoin mix and strain through a cloth, apply with brush. Common varnish for legs, etc. 1 pt. methylated spirit, Id. worth of resin. I obtained the above from a professional polisher in Oxon, and if A Young
work in as well as readily come-at-able. If "W. H. prefers iron I will give him a sketch of a simple form to suit,
easy material to
true with an old file, but if he procures a piece of granite stone, it will do the work equally as well, if not better.
Amateur would
his address.
like to
get
them
ready-
will give
him
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
Collapsible Metal Tubes. in reply to F. V. B. (Witham), writes: The makers of the collapsible tubes are H. Brooks & Co., Cumherland Market, N.W. But I do not know if they sell small quantities.
35*
Flat Steel Wire.
can procure flat steel wire, as formerly used in crinoline hoops, from Messrs. J. W. Woodsworth & Co., Oxspring Wire Works, Sheffield. He will, however, find that the steel used is too soft for saws, and by the time he has filed or punched teeth, which, I presume, he intends to do, and got the right temper for his saw-blade, he will have wasted far more time than the price of a good French bandsaw blade or fret-saw would be worth. Regarding price quoted for a band-saw blade, brazed, set, and sharpened, viz., Is. 9d., either there must be some mistake, or else the blade is very short indeed. The other prices quoted by W. S. S. are correct, and will be found to tally with all those of firstclass makers. He will, however, most probably be able to get about fifteen per cent, taken off, or perhaps more. The tool recommended by W. S. S. for running beads or flutings, would work well enough so long as it is not attempted to do too many at a time, as the spaces are liable to become variable in the sharpening of the cutter in this latter case. If a variation in the size of the beads or flutings is of no consequence, of course any number in reason may be cut with the same tool at one time.
S. S.
M. W. (Bundey),
Vox Humana Stop. W. H. (Guernsey) in reply to Musicus, writes The Vox Humana is a reed stop of S foot tone, the largest pipe CC about 15
J.
:
W.
Browning- Guns.
Cleaning Shells. M. W. (Burnley) writes in reply to H. D. E.:I have found a solution of carbonate of potash most useful for the purpose.
1 oz. to
will not ignite on sand-paper, or by ordinary means, but require a surface specially prepared for them as follows: sulphide of antimony, 20 parts bichromate
;
method
of potash, 2 to 4 parts oxide of iron, lead, or ma n ganese, 4 to 6 parts glass-powder, 2 parts ; strong glue, or gum, 2 to 3 parts. This preparation is spread like paint in a warm condition on paper, which is fastened
; ;
inches long (or less, occasionally longer, but 15 inches is its true length); the reeds are similar to (and of precisely the same length) those of the clarinet or trumpet, they are generally somewhat thinner to enable them to speak freely on their diminutive bodies. The price of a Vox Humana in pure tin, voiced and tuned (the voicing would be far more difficult to the tyro than even the construction of the pipes) is 5 16s. at the most celebrated makers of these stops (identical with that placed in the Temple Church organ when rebuilt by Eobson). The space required about that for a " Principal." It must be directly over the pallets so as to catch the first " flush." If the organ in which it stands is subject to great changes of temperature, and is usually played upon in a somewhat more heated atmosphere than its normal one, tune the Vox- Humana, note by note, to the open 8 foot, leaving each about a beat sharp afterwards adjusting'it in octaves to itself; when the temperature rises it will be in tune. Tuned perfect, it would he several beats flat, the same obtains of all reetfs more or less, but the tube of Vox Humana being so short in proportion to reed, renders some such method of tuning indispensable where subject to heat.
21,
Hand
F. E.
Bells.
Ramrod Fixed in Gun-Barrel. W. J. H. (Wood Green) sends the following reply to W. H. C. (Wrotham). Pour some oil into the barrel and let it soak for a day. Screw a hand-* ice or the nipple wrench onto the ramrod, and put in a door or some place for a purchase a smart pull by two or three men will probably suffice. Or, proceed a3 above, screw the gun (by the stock; into a bench-vice, and by a series of gentle taps with a hammer on the small vice that is fixed to the ramrod, the rod may be drawn. Blowing out, as advised by Second Englneeb, is very risky.
;
(Burford) in reply to Willing to Help's inquiry for list of prices of hand bells, advises htm to apply to Mr. Henry
W.
Cross Street, Finsbury, E.C., writes: Musjice asks for the fittings for fret-work, hinges, catches, locks, etc. Some of these are shown on page 96 of our catalogue, and we are adding others this season.
Bond, Bell Founder, Sheep Street, Bwrford, Oxon, for his price list. Mr. Bond's prices, he thinks, will be found as low as those of most makers. W. F. I. writes: I think if Willing to
writes to the firm of Messrs. John & Co., Bell Founders, Loughborough, Leicestershire, for their catalogue, he will get what he wants. The firm sent " Big Paul " to London. They also offer peals of hand bells from 8 in number, at 1 12s., to 37 in the peal for 35 15s.
Make
below
Help
No.
Orris tincture
1.
-J
pint.
Taylor
ounce. 2 ounces.
$
over proof)
$ pint.
Bookbinding.
G. (Cornwall) How to bind Amateur Woek in the publisher's covers, is answered in the last paragraph on "BookF.
it
answers
very
Z
well.
somewhat
Britannia Bubber and Kamptulicon Co., 32, Cannon Street, London, and cost 4s. per pound. It i3 kept in all thicknesses from about \tt inch upwards, and is sold in large sheets. If only a small quantity is required, the Company will not break a sheet, but if they have one already broken they will cut
binding" in Part XVI. The wires seen in the backs of books lately, instead of thread, is done by a machine costing over 150, quite beyond the reach of amateurs. However, should F. G. feel interested, a description of the machine will he given. A Subscbibkb., no doubt, saw the illustration of Harrild's press and plough, in " Art of Bookbinding," p. 58. The address of the
firm
is
i ounce. Otto rose i drachm. Cork both bottles and leave them one month. Take 100 yards of cotton tape and dip it in a hot solution, saltpetre, 1 ounce water, ^ pint dry it. Filter the two tinctures, mix, dip tape in it and dry it; it is then ready for use.
;
Pod musk
any
it.
Messrs.
Harrild,
25,
Farringdon
;
W. J. H. {Wood Green) sends the follow, ing reply to Bogee (Swadlincote). Fretsawing was done in above at a stall in the flatej Polytechnic Institution, London, and the articles (mostly comic sketches) turned out very nicely, and sold , mounted on small strips of mahogany, from 3d. each. .Roger should try some of the manufacturers of
valcanized India-rabber, there
is
Street. The illustration of press and plough in Part XVI. is almost the same the press, Fig. 11, p. 362, Vol. I., is the same
Brazing and Soldering. A. K. (Soham) writes : In the article on ''Brazing and Soldering," by Mr. Edwinson, he has not mentioned Baker's Preparation for Tinning and Soldering. I have used it for many years as a flux for soldering every kind of metal, and have found it superior to every thing I had previously
used.
description, but smaller, made, to suit the convenience of amateurs. The best advice I can give to Subscbibek, and to amateurs in general, is, have nothing to do with
a mill at
Edinburgh.
second-band presses, unless they have been replaned, and have slide knives to the plough.
to G. P. P. writes that he can supply him with six-sheet white mounting boards at very low prices. If G. P. P. will send stamped envelope, addressed to himself, he shall have name and address of White
Mounts.
35>
AMATEURS IN
INFORMATION SOUGHT.
COUNCIL.
Small Portable Forge.
T. W. (Clapham) wishes very much for instruction how to make a small portable forge with a fan, in lieu of bellows, to be worked by a pedal. External measurement,
3 feet high, 2 feet long, 18 inches wide.
Nixey's Crystallised Fuller's Earth. J. Graham writes Can you or any of your readers kindly inform me where I may
:
Fixing Gilt Cornice on Valance Board. J. T. F. (Brixton) asks : Can anyone inform me how to fix the gilt cornice on the valance-board which carries the rods supporting the curtains of the interior of baywindow of sitting room ? I believe a heavy bullion fringe is nailed or tacked on edge of wood first, some I know tack the gilt moulding on, but I don't think that is correct. Have been told the moulding is slid on a proper backing of wood ; perhaps Borne one can enlighten me as to the correct way to mount or fix it.
obtain
Earth?"
Fuller's Nixey'a Crystallised I have tried several well-known druggists, but hitherto have failed to get it.
*'
Varnish for Pasteboard. H. (Derby) writes: Can you give me a recipe for making white varnish, the kind that pasteboard box- makers and window-ticket writers use ? it is a kind of
S.
Brass Wire Springs. H. M. H. asks for any information that can be given in regard to the process which brass wire must undergo to render it for making springs, spiral or otherwise, or whether a special alloy is used for the purpose.
enamel.
Rapid Heating of Bath. Alpha asks Can any of the readers of your paper give me any information respecting a mode for quickly heating a bath by gas. I know of several kinds and
:
ing-glass ?
How
black as an ebony stain ? if tine, will that Buffice ; and, if so, in what
quantities
?
the one most commonly used is an ordinary ring of iron pipe with several holes bored in it, but in use it is most unpleasant, and takes a long time to get the water warm. The plan I had thought of is the following
:
Special Design for Small Book -Case. Apprbnticr Merchant asks Will any kind reader please give design and instructions for making an ornamental upright case, with glass in fronts size, 24 inches high, 18 inches wide, and 6 inches from front to back, with shelves inside for showing off small New Testaments, birthday
:
He would
like
them ruby-coloured.
of Ink Stains from Ivory. H. A. D. (Belfast) wishes to be informed how he may remove ink stains from ivory.
Removal
The
J.
F>.
re-
Inspiro meter. Chest writes: I shall be obliged for information how to make or where to buy an inspirometer, for measuring the capacity of the lungs by inhaling the air; also the probable cost. Varnish for Tracing- Paper. (Bursley) writes I have a receipt J. for making tracing-paper, but it does not say how the varnish is to be made, and this I wish to know. I append a copy of the receipt: "In order to prepare a beautiful
damp during the monsoon weather in Eastern India, where the damp is so great
that articles veneered or glued together give way, and the veneering falls off. J. B. also wishes for receipts for making the coloured inks used with rubber stampB. [The inks are prepared from aniline dyes. For damp-proof glue, try the glue manufactured by the Gloy Company, see Amatkcr "Wokk, p. 241, Vol. II., "Notes on Novelties." Ed.]
Centre-Board Dingy,
know if there is any book by which he could work out or find the lines for a good Centre-board Dingy,
J. S. E. "Wishes to
sea-going.
put the damaged part at back it appears cemented on, what will dissolve it ? dare not use pressure, for fear of it breaking up. Glass-Blowing. C. J. M. (Ireland) writes: Can any of readers tell me what flux, if any, is your used to blow two pieces of glass together, such, for instance, as the stem of a broken
;
transparent colourless paper, it is best to employ the varnish formed with Demerara, resin, in the following way The sheets intended for this purpose are laid flat on each other, and the varnish Bpread over the uppermost sheet with a brush, until the paper appears perfectly colourless, without, however, the liquid thereon being visible the first sheet is then removed, hung up for drying, and the second treated in the same manner. After being dried, this paper is capable of being written on either with chalk or pencil, or steel pens. It preserves its colourless transparency without becoming yellow, as is frequently the case with that prepared in any other
:
way."
Meteorological Instruments.
T. H. H. (Ashford) writes : I beg to second the appeal of B. V., for papers on the above subject. What I am particularly in want of at present, is a rain-gauge, but my difficulty is, how to measure the rainfall after it is collected, by menus of a funnel representing ten square inches of surface. When making enquiries, with a view to purchase a rain gauge, the price asked has always been such as to frighten me completely. [I shall be glad to have a paper on " The Kain-Gauge How to Make It," and other meteorological instruments, from any person thoroughly competent to write on this subject. Ed.]
:
wine-glass?
Polishing Stones.
E. A. F. (Cromer) wishes for an article or information on polishing stones, agates,
etc.,
Ke-Bronzing Figures.
E. L. J. (Birmingham) writes: I have several French figures that require rebronzing, the colour of the bronze was
originally very dark.
to seaside subscribers to
direct
me how
to re-bronze
them ?
Amathfr Work. Queen Anne Furniture, etc. W. writes : E. Will some fellow-subL. scriber be good enough to inform me where
I can obtain, at a
Wax
moderate
in
railing so
much used
T. L. wishes to know how to keep white wax from changing its colour to yellow wheu melted for casting wax fruit, or moulding pure wax candles.
early English articles of furniture? I should also be glad if some one could give me a sketch of a monogram, formed of the Initials
L.
W.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
Camping.
I sh.aU be obliged if YoLri'TEEE writes any veteran will give instructions for making really handy pegs, rifle-rack, table, washstand, etc. , for small bell tent used at volunteer encampments. The articles should be suitable for a tent occupied by about sis men for a week ; and must be quickly and firmly fixed and unfixed, and so arranged as to be packed into a small compass for
:
353
Pipes from Potatoes. Light -Keeper sends the following extracts from Chambers's Journal for January, 1883: "According to the Vienna Agricul-
The Zither. E. F. (Sh-effield) asks for instructions for making, tuning and playing the zither. Inlay for Guitars, etc.
: Can you tell me what the material is which looks like mother-o'for inlaying the fingerand is used pearl, boards of guitars and other string instruments. Can it be obtained, and, if so, where? '* which (2). Is there any sort of " amalgam can be used for inlaying, and which gives the H.
S. (Derby) auks
travelling
appearance of silver ?
C.
to Messrs. Patrick, of Chelsea, as recommended by Mr. Edwinson, for castings of machine, enclosing wrapper for catalogue,
with
1.
re-
Must
give
Hammocks.
H. J. (Finsbury) wishes for instructions in making net and canvas hammocks.
Hard Stopping
Exes has
for
Wood.
several doors with panels split and the mouldings; opened at corners; will some reader kindly inform him how to make
or where to obtain a good hard stopping that will not shrink and fall out ? Wind-Power for Lathes. W; S. (Longsidc) writes : Being desirous of applying wind-power to a lathe, I would fe-l obliged if any amateur would kindly give instructions with a diagram:
the barrels be perfectly clean before the 2. Should the preparation is laid on ? barrels be quite hot, or merely warmed before a fire ? 3. Should the preparation be laid on with a brush or a piece of wool. 4. Must the preparation be left till perfectly dry ? 5. Is it essential that the oil be olive, or will that which is sold as olive (viz., refined rape) do ? 6. What quantity of chloride of antimony would be wanted for a pair of barrels ? 7. Are there any other simple methods of re-browning ?
that meerschaum pipes of excellent quality, susceptible of the highest polish, and even more readily colourable than the genuine spiuma di mare, may be made of potatoes. The f amilar tuber, it seems, is well qualified to compete with the substance, known to Its commerce, as * meerschaum clay. latent virtues in this direction are developed by the following treatment Having been carefully peeled and its ' eyes extracted, the potato is boiled un intermit tently for thirty-six hours in a mixture of sulphuric acid and water, after which it is squeezed in a press until every drop of natural, or acquired moisture, is extracted from it. The residuum of this simple process is a hard block of delicate creamy white hue, every whit as suitable for the
' : '
artistically
Tool for Cutting Mouldings. (Headley) writes : I fear my query was rather vague. The tool about which I wish to get particulars, is one which will make a moulding round a slab of wood, such
E.
executed pipe-heads as the finest clay. The potato, moreover, dealt with in the manner above described, promises to prove a formidable rival to the elephant's tusk. As potatoes are plentiful all over the world,
W.
and are likely to remain so, whilst elephants are, comparatively speaking, rarities, mankind at large may be fairly congratulated upon the discovery of a substitute for ivory, which can be produced in unlimited quantities at an almost nominal cost, taking into consideration the difference of price between a pound of potatoes and a pound of elephant's tusk." He adds I forward the preceding, as I suppose it will be interesting to many of your readers,
as a table-top, etc., either square, polygonal, circular, or elliptical, or, indeed, with any curve, and which will also make a moulding on these hard woods, which an ordinary moulding- plane will not touch. I have
asked.
is placed,
a box into which the saucepan its contents have reached the boiling point and left there till convenient to remove it, when its contents are found perfectly cooked and warm. Of course I know the box is filled with some non-conductor of heat but what it is that is employed and the process of making, I am
It
is
when
ignorant
[The box is lined throughout of. with felt or some good non-conductor in order to retain the heat within it. As it may be useful to many to know how to make a box of this description, perhaps some reader will give a detailed account of the method of constructing it, with illustrative diagrams to appear as an article in this magazine. Ed.]
succeeded in making a moulding round the edge of square oak table-top, using a very finely-set moulding-plane, but for making a moulding on a circular table-top, I want a tool of a different description; I think that it is called a " scratch-tool," and that it is usually made by the workmen who use it. If any reader could tell me where I could procure a set of these I should be greatly
obliged.
and
me how much
Firing China-Paintings. Can any readers of Amateur Work tell me whereabouts in Man-
W.
A. P. asks
sulphuric acid, its price and postage, I am likely to require to make two or three trials. My boiler will be an old meat can, 6 inches deep and 4 inches in diameter. Must acid be mingled each time with the water added, to make up for evaporation ? [Can any reader help our correspondent, whose nom-de-plume tells the story of his daily life and calling, and who shows by his contributions that he is always willing to help others! Ed.]
Drilling Glass
J.
McE.
(Southport)
drills,
Canvassing of Sea-Going Yachts. T. W. D. (Belfast) wishes to know if there is any work in which the above-named subject is treated.
Chip-Carving.
Could A. B. (Newark- on -Trent) writes you or any of the readers of Amateur Woek tell me where I can obtain patterns for chipcarving, or a handbook on the subject ?
:
or " sparks," as they and china, and any information as to the mode of riveting broken pieces together ?
may
call
obtain the
them, for
drilling glass
Photographic Transparencies.
C. T., Junr. (Portman Square) writes: I see in the west-end shops, photos mounted on large ground -glass panels i.e., they seem so they are very expensive, and I
;
French Polishing.
Antipodean writes In reading the various articles in your valuable paper on French polishing and finishing wood-work, I find no allusion to the treatment of the I frequently hear comfret of the work. plaints from amateur fret-cutters in this
:
Effect of Zinc on Hot Coals. Will any reader of Amatetje H. B. ask3 Work, who has tried the method of cleaning stove-pipes, described in page 91, Vol. I. of Amateue Wohx, kindly say how he set about it, and what effect was produced ?
:
have some valuable subjects I should be glad to utilize, if I knew the way.
Tools for Cutting Fancy Trays. E. J. (Colne) writes : I should be glad to know where to get suitable tools for cutting fancy trays, card-baskets, etc., from burnished cardboard. Regllding Picture Frames.
T. 8. (Brimtcombe) asks for instructions how to remove the old gilding (if necessary and to regild the frame.
j
ing
almost impossible on such small I shall be extremely obliged for any hints as to treatment of above. (Dudley) wishes to know what is J. H. meant by " spiriting off," in French polishis
surfaces.
ing.
Hookah.
Apparatus," by Mr. Parkinson L. W. E. (Market Harborough). 1. Yes, that is the invention of the author of "Printing for Amateurs." 2. Your suggestion shall receive
A W.
make
how he may
consideration.
letter is
J.
M.
(Liverpool).
Your
354
J.
T. F. (Brixton). In matters involving inedical treatment I never presume to give
advice,
s ii tor
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
remembering the old proverb, Ne
Your medical man will tell you all you wish to know, or a good chemist may be able to inform you of
ultra crepidam.
the nature of nitrate of amyl, how it is administered, etc. Te Jddice. 1. You can buy what is termed continuous paper, that is to say paper of any length within reason and of considerable width, of any artist's colour man. Artists use this for the preparation of cartoons on a large scale. Fortaking impressions of undercut work in carving use gelatine. Aurelian. I. Paste the pattern on the wood. 2. Use Stephens' Stains to produce the desired tint, and then varnish 3. Any of the toolor French polish. makers, etc., who advertise in this Magazine will supply you with the prices of the various woods sold by them for fret cutting. C. "W. (IvybrUge). Apply to Mr. T. J. Gulliche, European Art Galleries, New Bond Street. T. F. (Nun's Island). The subjects that you wish to have treated have been noted and papers shall be given on them as opportunity offers. H. M. W. (Lancaster). Instructions on curing skins were given in this department of the Magazine in Part
Amatbue Work has been useful to you, the testimony of aresidentinany of our colonies to this effect is always pleasing to meGriffin's patent fret saw blades are sold at 6d. per dozen for Nos. 1 to 6 inclusive, and at 8d. per dozen for Nos. 7 to 10. The price of the Improved Roger's Fret Saw Machine with blower and drilling attachment com. plete, is 17s. 6d. Apply to any of the
dealers
in
tools
S.
XVII.
Light Keeper.
I have noted
your
answer saw blades. T. is thanked with regard to the extra charge made for photographic apparatus. R. E. I am sorry for your disappointment, the utmost is done to please all. F. J. C. Your suggestions with regard to Scene Paiuting are good, and shall be duly actedon. A. "W. (Leeds). A paper on moving models is in type, but the illustration that must accompany it has yet to be engraved. Chat Blanc. 1. Design for Small Green, house appeared in Part V. 2. For flux for soldering zinc use equal parts of hydro, chloric acid and rain water. 3. Possibly an application to any watch and clock -maker in the town in which you reside would obtain for you a little of the oil that is specially prepared and used for oiling clocks. 4. Wash
Griffin's fret
H.
who
advertise in this
has been forwarded to tbe gentleman who has undertaken to write on piano-forte tuning, etc. Nemo. You had better put your proposal in the form of an advertisement. If we inserted it without charge, we should be inundated with similar proposals. Vibration. Tbe first article on Piano-forte Tuning is in type and will appear shortly. W. C. B. B. (Chelmsford). I hope that a paper on the method of making a Magic Lantern will appear towards the close of the year. C. J. B. For mypart I prefer Syer's Bench, especially when fitted with the " Instantaneous Grip Vice." It occupies little room, which is often a desideratum. Sigma. The Pantograph is mentioned in the paper on "Overglaze Painting on Porcelain," in this part. You ought not to find any difficulty in making a small box for cash, etc., with two compartments. For secret spring for box apply to any good ironmonger in a large town, or failing this, to Messrs. R. Melhuish & Sons, 85 find 87, Fetter Lane, E. C. R. 0. (Aberdeen). The promised articles on Basket-making have not been lost sight of. I hope they will appear in Vol. III. It is not possible to give them earlier owing to the number of subjects now awaiting publication or rather continuation. H. S. (Driffield). A series of papers on
'*
suggestions, and will act on them as far as possible. Lex. See reply headed "Mr. Hasluck's Articles" iuPart XVI. Attention shall be paid to your wishes when opportunity offers. The papers on boot and shoe
making will be resumed immediately. W. H. W. (Sherborne). A series of pipers on Home-made Furniture will be commenced The couch of Austrian wood in Vol. Ill
Lent furniture will be specially treated in present Volume. A. E. H. B. (BrachUy). Fret-work patterns may be traced and multiplied to any number that you may require by the aid of blackened paper prepared for the transfer of designs. I shall be glad to receive a description of your new method G. An with a view to its publ' cation. article shall be given on Umbrella making meet with any and Re-covering when I can one that is really competent to write on this subject. Jack. To your first question, J. O. A Yes To your second, No -W. Supplement giving a Design for a Music Stand and working drawings of its different
parts
is in
preparation
R.
Street).
Your address
shall;
I can find no application for assistance of the kind you offer in Amat ur Work, for December, 1882, and the initials you mention do not appear therein. C. S. Junr. (Camden .Road"). I shall be happy to give publicity to your proposal, but it is not possible, at all
workshops and laboratories in connection with this Magazine J- W. Procure you* paint ready mixed you can buy it in quantities from 1 pound upwards in tin caus at 6d. per pound.
;
the greasy bottles in a strong solution of common washing soda. 5. There will be some papers by a practical man on the subject you mention. G. M. M. {Lambeth). 1. A paper on stretching and mounting maps and pictures will be given shortly. 2. Instructions for fixing india-rubber tyres on the wheels of tricycles have been given in " Velocipedes Their Construction and Use, IV." page 168. If this is not what you require write again. "W. H. (Dewzbury), The kaleidoscope is noted for treatment, but must be deferred till the winter months. L. M. (Romford). Pottery and glass manufacture are altogether beyond the province of the amateur. C. T., Junr. (Portman Square). An article has appeared on the preparation of photographic slides for the magic lantern. R. S. P. J. (Puddletou-n). At some future time articles will be giveu on " Making and Repairing Harness." E. L. E. (Dundee). The writer of the papers on " Boots and Shoes How to Make Them and Mend Them," has been ill for some time, hence the delay. W. G. G. (Woodford). A reply has been made to your inquiry already. Perhaps it has escaped your notice. L. G. S. (Brixton). Your idea is a good one, but I have no time to take it in hand and carry it out. "Why not set to work yourself? A. K. (Soham). Directions for making a blower for a fret machine are given in Part VII. J. J. (Peterhead). An endeavour will be made to secure the continuity of papers from month to month.
Woodcaiving
for
Amateurs"
is
now
appearing in this Magazine. George the Fifth. See our articles on " Picture Frame Making," and provide yourself with a mitre box, or one of Booth's Mitre - Cutting Machines, price 15s. W. J. McQ. (PortBlair, Andaman Island^). The articles on rubber stamp making are in hand and will soon be commenced. Furthermore, a contributor has undertaken to furuish a paper on repairing English Conrertinas. J. C. (Golcar). Pictare-Frama MakiDg is now being treated in Amateur Work. For engravings apply to George Rees, 41, 42, and
42, Russell
Street,
W.C.,
who may be
what you require. E. J. (Corn:). Your question cannot be answered in Amateur Work. Half Jck. An article on the subject
possible. North Countbie. on the subject you name is now in type and will appear shortly. F. B. (Bandon). The articles on Rubber Stamp Mnking will be commenced shortly J. H.
speedily as
An
(Blackpool). See the contents of the present Part, in which I have endeavoured to meet your requirements on a new and original plan. Electricity. A series of papers are in preparation in which your want will be met. X. Y. Z. Replies have been given to your queries. J. M. E. (Southport). Your
"W. G. Attention shall be paid to your wishes hut at the same time I may say that all tbe axticles that appear in Amateur Wohk are
strictly practical.*-
M. H. (Stockton-on-Tees). "Wax fruits are made in moulds taken from the original. This subject does not come within the province of this Magazine.
L. O. L. (Dover). If you will say what is amiss with the ball-cock I will try to meet your wants. J. J. R. I am glad that
thanked for his I do not wish to produce designs letter. taken from the source mentioned. V.W. B. (Belfast). Your query has been answered. I do not know of any work treating of the canvassing of sea-going yachts. -Impatient The good time is coming, try to exercise patience a little longer. G. T. (Plymouth). I do not wish to have a paper on the subject you name. The supply of supplements independently of the Magazine is under consideration. A Subscribes. Your x>ostcard
J. B. 0. (Stoke-on-Trent) is
query has been answered. Communications from the following are acknowledged: Red Dragoon; Captain S. (Bradford) J. J. (King's Cross K. M. J. Rad); Dr. H. M. W. C. S. (Newburgh); A. E. S. (St. Leonards); H. H. D. B. (BlunAngleton, dellsands); S. W. O. (Croydon) J. P. (Staveley); H. and E. J. D., Amateur, W. H. B. (Midlothian).
;
** Although eight extra pages of "Amateurs in Council " are given with this Part, there are nearly four more in type, which are unavoidably " crowded out."
ARTISTIC MODELLING
ARTISTIC
355
MODELLING
By
AND
AMATEUR
SCULPTURE.
MASK MALLETT.
which greatly interfere with its beauty and value. In any part of a bust or figure, a dark mark is objectionable but coming, as it sometimes may do, on an
;
important feature,
eye or mouth,
it
may
effect
III.
Working in Marble Tools Processes and Methods of Working Different Kinds of Marble Other Materials for Sculpture.
10RKING
IN
MARBLE.The
in
late
of the work. Nor is it always easy, from the external appearance of a rough block of marble, to tell what It is possible that an its internal colour may be. ugly spot which shows on the outside may be wholly
one
worked away in hewing out the piece of sculpture, and that a block which appears to be without markings
second phase,
;
may
is
to death
and
its
final
reproduction in marble to
glorified resurrection.
The comparison
last particular
;
is
of which
am
J. H. Foley, the was a poor and struggling young man, he received his first commission For 100, a for his well-known " Ino and Bacchus." great sum to one in his circumstances, he bought
figure
When
the late
FIG. 7.
MARBLE
CHISEL.
FIG.
10. SCULPTOR
DRILL.
FIG. 12.
SMALL
MARBLE
RASPS.
FIG.
what he believed
set a
to
workman
to point
whose names
suitable to
the
mason reported that, instead of being embody the nymph and infant wine-god, marble was fit only " to make a carriage bitch
!
and pup
"
carver.
The
commonly
directions,
Black spots were appearing in and the unlucky young sculptor had
is,
all
to
used
by us moderns, and which we emphatically distinguish as " statuary marble," is brought from the quarries of Carrara, which are situated in the Italian Duchy of the same name. These quarries have been famous from the times of the Roman Empire downwards, and are so extensively worked that the largest, that of Torano, employs between one and two thousand men. Than this, a more noble or beautiful material could not be desired for the sculptor's art. Carrara marble is semi-translucent, and, in the best blocks, of a pure and brilliant whiteness. But dark grey spots and veins somelimes occur in it,
buy a new
block.
An
however, often
able from outward marks to form a tolerably accurate estimate of the internal colour of the stone and the
;
do well to leave the selection of his material to a trustworthy marble mason. As regards texture, a marble of medium hardness is best. A very hard and flinty stone is difficult to work, whilst the softest qualities are apt to crumble under the tool, and do not admit of any delicacy of finish. Hewing the block of marble roughly into shape is an operation with which the modern sculptor rarely
will
amateur
356
has much to do.
ARTISTIC MODELLING
It is left to
;
business to
hew down
the marble
and was perfected by the great Sir Francis Chantrey. Over the old method of copying by the aid of plummet and
pointing machine
a
The
modern
invention,
compasses
sculptors
it
economizing time and labour. Busy have pointing machines, and workmen to use them, on their own premises. The amateur will do better to imitate those of less employment, who have this work done at the shop of some reliable marble mason. Some description of the process of pointing will, however, be both
accuracy and
generally
The bust as he leaves it looks something like a person who has had the small-pox, it being covered with little round holes, the bottom of each of which is darkened by a dot of blacklead. Our bust is now
ready for the more artistic labours of the carver. The block of marble will have to be firmly fixed with plaster on a strong turn-table stand, of a con-
We
pointed
will
is
a bust.
suppose that the piece of sculpture to be The plaster model and the block
This will be one which will bring the head of the bust nearly as high as that of the carver, when standing. The model must be set beside the marble on a stand which will bring it to the same height. This also must have a turn-table, that both model and marble may be moved freely as occasion
venient height.
of marble are fixed side by side upon slabs of stone, and along the front of each stone are scales, graduated precisely alike hence these stones are termed " scalestones." The pointing machine is made to slide
;
may
require.
The
chief
and
is
ever
In Fig. 7
give an example
It
made
to slide
with
movable
up and down it this arm is furnished which can be tightened and by screws. At the end of the arm, a backwards and forwards through a
;
medium size. This instrument has a cup-shaped head that is, its head is hollowed, and presents only a narrow ring of metal to the hammer, instead of the broad, flat surface offered by the
joints,
tool
soft
stone
ham-
The
of these tools,
through the more dense material. not less than ten or a dozen varying in width from i inch to f inch.
They
will cost
He
to inch
from 6d. to 8d. each. Chisels from I inch wide are the sizes most generally useful
and screws every joint tightly. He observes the exact place occupied by the foot of the machine on the graduated scale, and then removes it to the corresponding place on the scale
just touch this point,
As
every joint
is
tightly
screwed
and some of these will be rendered more safe and serviceable by grinding or rubbing the corners to a round shape. The most necessary caution to be given to the beginner in the use of the chisel is, that he should not
hold
it
will of
course point to
at
a spot in the marble exactly corresponding to that marked in the plaster model and by drilling a hole
;
till
same
he marks
it
and struck too danger that the marble beneath will be what is technically termed "stunned that is, it will be bruised, and will have a dull and chalky appearance, or perhaps crumble away under
slanting.
If held
is
'
The
the
;
absolute precision,
mass of superfluous marble which projects beyond which is chiefly done with "picks," that is, with it These fetch off the chisels not edged but pointed. material in large flakes, and are less liable to bruise
the marble beneath, than
flat
chisels.
In
like
manner, a succession of points may be taken, till the whole surfaces of model and marble are dotted over at intervals with pencil marks for the movable joints in the machine will permit points to be taken in every portion and on every side of our bust. In the hands of a careful workman, it is almost needless to say, the
;
soon become dulled, and must often be rubbed up to an edge again. This is generally done with water on a flat piece of Yorkshire paving-stone, which has a sharp grit a finish can afterwards be given on an ordinary oil-stone. A scrap of Yorkshire stone sufficient for the purpose say a foot in length and half that in width may be had almost for asking at
tools
;
a stone-yard.
Under the frequent rubbings to which they are and require to be freshly drawn out. Most blacksmiths understand how to do
subjected, tools soon wear,
ARTISTIC MODELLING
357
When this, though some do it far better than others. handing the tools to a smith, to be put in order, it is well to instruct him as to the nature and hardness of the stone on which they are to be used, that he may
temper them accordingly. The uniform charge for drawing out and tempering is one halfpenny per tool. The fact that tools soon get out of order, and
require to be put right again, causes a larger stock to
(Fig. 10).
Whenever
to
the nostrils, in undercuttings of the drapery, between the locks of hair, in the corners of the eyes even, this
most
at
safe
and handy
tool
comes
into play.
It is fitted
sizes,
Such a
drill
be necessary demanded.
In Fig. 8
is
would otherwise be
16
for
costs at Buck's,
is
shown
the sculptor's
hammer, which
27s.
used for driving these chisels. It has a short haft, a head of solid steel, and should weigh from 2 to 2i lbs. It costs about 3s. 6d. This is generally used
hair, a
This shop, I may here remark, is an excellent one for all kinds of marble tools. Many of the things may certainly be bought cheaper from the Birmingbut I know of no other or Sheffield tool makers shop in which one finds so good an assortment from which to choose. The hair is best expressed by indicating its flow
;
ham
dummy of soft
is
(Fig. 9)
cause of complaint among carvers is that the first metal is slightly too soft, the second slightly too hard. A carver of much skill once conbut a
common
chisel
longer or shorter as
In
making these
strokes,
dummy,
he had
dis-
mean that
was just intermediate. I had a pewter dummy made, and found it succeed so well that I have never since
been without one.
and
my
experience
of the
The weight
If,
Of the benefits of his discovery I make a present to the reader. dummy should be much the same
amateur has
and a somewhat rounded chisel will work best. Firm and decided handling is necessary in this, especially These chisel if the hair be inclining to straight. strokes, when once satisfactorily made, are not afterwards to be touched with rasp or sand-paper. Not so the other parts of the work. In most
portions
lutely
to
it is
down
abso-
hammer.
essays in carving in
the
is
the
chisel.
Danger of
stunning
made some
wood
or
now be
It is not only the rough workman, who removes the mass of superfluous material, who profits by it. Its use is scarcely less great to the artistic carver, and especially during the earlier stages of his work. By it he is freed from all necessity of troubling For himself about general form and proportions. these he can rely on the accuracy of the machine, and he needs only to look to such variations cf form as lie between point and point and these points, in the more intricate parts, will probably be but the fraction of an inch distant from each other. His labour is thus simplified and facilitated in a wonderful manner. But as he comes down more nearly to the required surface, he will have to grow less trustful of the accuracy of his points. An error, though it may be but of the hundredth part of an inch, is of importance in a delicate work of art, and the best workmen will not avoid all errors. Some testing by occasional measurements will now become necessary.
invention.
Sculptor's
sizes
rasps are
made
in
a great variety of
to
and shapes, so
In
Fig.
of surface.
some
shows a most useful rasp for large surfaces. It is about a foot long, and costs Fig. 12 shows two smaller rasps of useful 3s. 6d. forms, drawn to the same scale. These would cost
shillings each.
iod. or
is.
each.
With the
rasp,
held in a firm
shape at pleasure. It is, in fact, far easier to and alter the surface of marble by this means than to make similar alterations in either clay
reduce
or
plaster.
of useful
forms and sizes are sufficient for a beginner. The roughness and scratches left by the rasp
may
Fine,
fine glass-paper.
The
final
operation
is
is
;
that
of
sanding.
clean, sharp
sand
wetted
A common
consists
in
drilling
the end of a stick, and taking up a little of the sand He gives the stick a kind of applies it to the marble.
circular motion,
some of his holes too deep. This must be borne in mind, and due allowance made when necessary. Next in importance to the chisel is that ex-
working
it
By
this
means the
dull
358
ance which the
pears,
ARTISTIC MODEILING
latter
has previously shown disapbrilliancy of the marble is brought out. The pieces of wood used in sanding should be of a soft and even grain. Pine is best
the
back, will probably range from ,10 to ,15 medallion, according to size, from ,1 5s. to
for a
10.
its
ribs of
to
hard grain,
is
unsuitable,
liable
injure
the surface.
These
These figures will serve to give the amateur some idea of what he may have to pay, but they are not, and cannot be, very exact for in two busts, both of which
;
may be
as
thick
less,
as a finger,
more or
than twice as
much
their
Hard
marble,
as
is
Carrara
with
it
compared
not
much
care
is
necesas
many
kinds of stone,
FIG. 9. DUMMY FOR CARVING HAIR, ETC. they will soon wear into a shape adapted to whatever surface they may be climate. For out-door sculpture Sicilian has to be used upon and, indeed, they will not be long in Sicilian marble is much employed in its place.
;
sary in this
respect,
some kinds
of drapery, the
inharder and more compact in grain than statuary stead of the beautiful whiteness of the latter, it has a
:
though
to
and
is
veins
and
spots.
By
is
wet sand.
even for a bust, free from these markings. Its hardness renders it trying to the temper of tools, but, being
less liable to
it
going over with the stick two or three times and frequently after the sand has been washed off, and the marble become dry, scratches and marks will
again show themselves, which will
repetition of the process.
much more
some
For
compared with
it
demand a
local
is
to
be
may be
When, by
cracks
well
properly speaking,
or holes
finished,
wished.
will,
Bronze.
Whilst
do
alto-
perhaps, be visible, as
as
a
point -holes
which
drilled
have
trifle
been
too
will
not
an unthe
but
is
rather difficult of
;
dertaking
as
application
ceti
spermapurpose
wax
will generally
answer
easily
the
sufficiently,
and may
in cold with the point of
is
8. SCULPTOR'S HAMMER.
best, but in
If
be forced
bust
will
a knife.
finished.
If the
a terminal one,
to
it is
now
have
to
be observed.
be fixed with a copper bolt and plaster on a suitable turned pedestal. This is commonly left to the marble mason, whose charge for finding marble, making, and fixing will be about
not,
it
need
It is upon and telling outline that the effect will mainly depend, and towards securing this the chief attention
a good
4s.
Charges
life-
it
necessary to be a
ARTISTIC MODELLING
master of the founder's
craft as well as his
359
own.
To keep
now
hands of a professed founder, and such is the skill of our modern craftsmen, that he need have no fears as to the result. If our amateur has any intention of executing a work in bronze, he can learn full particulars as to casting and its cost, by applying to Messrs. Drew and Co.j
places his plaster
model
in the
of
Thames
in
Ditton.
is
What an amateur
duced
metal
will
more
the preferable
mould is no easy matter. The most when it is a work that can be so treated, is to place it under glass, and by making the case airtight, rigorously to exclude all dust. When a work in simple plaster has once become soiled, there is no way of so cleaning it as to restore its original purity. The bestyplan to remove dust, is to sprinkle a little fine, dry plaster over it, and to work this plaster about with a dry, soft brush. The dry plaster will take up and remove dust, but not stains.
leaves the
effectual way,
This process
it
;
many
of
my
readers will be
a
and information
at professed
with regard to
will
Amateur Work
or
may be done
and glossy one may be given by saturating substances. Plunging it in skim milk, in paraffin, or in melted wax, will do this but to do it successfully requires some skill and care. Another method, which may be adopted with medal-
more
soft
permanent by converting it into what is commonly knora as terra-cotta is a modern revival of a practice common both in classical and renaissance times. During the last few years it has become fashionable even for portraits, and if less suited for embodying works of absolute beauty than marble, it is an admirable vehicle for the display of force and vigour in modelling. A somewhat sketchy treatment seems best adapted for terra-cotta ; in this material any elaborate finish only results in tamer.ess. It demands a free and masterly handling of the clay, and
Terra-cotta.
by burning
that
gilding or bronzing. This, when them indistinguishable from actual metal. If placed in the hands of Mr. S. Gushlow, 60, Newman Street, Oxford Street, the amateur can have his works treated by these processes to perfection.
lions or statuettes,
is
It will,
how
not in his
make
his
work
all
To
gild
on
first
it
render
with linseed
Two
or
is
therefore
little
The
scarcely
work in terra-cotta, can be provided by the amateur on his own premises, though some few sculptors have done so. There are many places in London and in the provinces where this firing can be done at a moderate charge. In London the modeller can insure a successful result by placing his work in the hands of Mr. N. F. Lucchese, 75, Euston Street, Enston Square. It is to be remembered that a model intended to be fired must have in it no supports of metal, wood, or any other foreign substance, or it will Tena-cotta reproductions from the plaster crack. model can be procured by placing the cast in the hands of such firms as the Watcombe Terra-cotta Company, St. Mary Church, Torquay; or the Torquay Terra-cotta Company, Torquay. Methods of Treati?ig and Preserving Works in Under the above heads I have spoken of Plaster. the more important of the materials in which it is usual to give permanency to sculpture. But before I close this aj tide I may perhaps render a service to the amateur sculptor, by giving some hints on the treatment of plaster casts, intended to be preserved
technically called, "firing," a
so strong.
Some
persons gild with even less labour, by simply it has been rendered non-
This is, I believe, composed wholly or chiefly of boiled oil and yellow ochre, and This will for use must be thinned with boiled oil.
require twenty-four hours,
more
or less, according to
weather and circumstances, to dry to the proper state and will then receive the gold leaf withof tackiness out any further preparation. When dry the gilding
;
as such.
should be rubbed over with a ball of cotton wool to remove superfluous gold. For bronzing, the following is a simple method. Having first rendered the cast non-absorbent, as directed above, coat it over with a paint composed
360
Prussian blue,
this
verditer,
spruce
ochre.
When
coating
is
nearly dry,
second method
is
more complex,
but,
if
well
pared by boiling together caustic ley of soda and linseed oil, to which must be added a saturated soluThis mixture has to be boiled tion of common salt.
till it
applied, and rather stippled than laid on in the usual method of painting; a second brush being used to remove any superfluity of paint. Some persons object to a glaring white, and tone down the colour by grinding a mere suspicion of ochre in their paint. From plaster thus treated dust can be removed with a feather brush, and when, in course of time, the surface becomes soiled, a second thin film of paint
can be applied.
No
second oiling
will
be necessary.
No
made
to
wash a plaster
it
must be
model.
wards diluted with boiling water. Four parts of sulphate of copper have now to be taken, and one part
of sulphate of iron, dissolved
water, and then mixed together.
separately in boiling
This mixture has to be poured slowly into the diluted soap, so long as any precipitate is caused. The copper and iron give to
the
Cleaning Marble. Marble, on the contrary, bears washing well. When it becomes soiled, a good receipt to clean it is the following Mix whiting and water to a paste, and stir in a little caustic potash. This should be painted over the marble, and quickly washed off again, and it will bring the dirt with it. If allowed to remain too long, it will corrode the surface.
:
soap
the
first
bronze.
The
fluid
portion has
and the
precipitate, to
HOW
iron solutions
must be added,
After allowing
it
to
be boiled
in
in
which to settle, the liquid part has to be poured oft", and the sediment the bronzing matter well washed with warm water. It has lastly to be washed with cold water, placed in a linen bag for all moisture to drain
copper pan.
an hour
Ill, SLIDING
]]N
The method of away, and then gradually dried. In twelve using the bronzing matter is as follows ounces of best linseed oil boil twelve ounces of
:
In page 66>
"
-J
now reads
inch
litharge, finely
powdered
strain
through a coarse
canvas bag, and allow to stand in a warm place till the mixture becomes clear; then add to fifteen ounces of the mixture, twelve ounces of the bronzing matter and
five of fine
wide, A inch deep, \ inch from each end;" should read " inch wide, 1 inch deep, 1 inch from each end."
;]
for
whhing.
;
Melt these
in a porcelain vessel
is
set
in
hot water
required, but
some time
in the
hot water,
Perhaps a description of the method of setting the camera in working order for stereo work will give the reader and amateur wood-worker a better idea of the
use of the various parts illustrated. The sliding front with the two apertures (Fig. 16)
is
any moisture the mixture may contain may be evaporated. The cast to be bronzed must be heated to 200 Fahr., and the melted mixture then laid on be kept hot till finished, It must with a brush. Small things or the bronzing will not be smooth. may be bronzed by dipping them in the compound. After a few days the surface should be rubbed with a A more showy appearance soft ball of cotton wool. may be given to casts thus treated by touching up
with shell gold or metallic powder. The unpleasant smell caused by this method of bronzing will go off if the work is exposed in an airy situation for a few days.
slide,
placed in position in the grooves of the horizontal and clamped by the small thumb-screw which
runs through the slot above the two apertures and then screw the two screws into the vertical front
;
lenses
in
their flanges,
fits
and
focus.
The diaphragm
(Fig. 30)
kept in
to
its
The
and
first
busts, are
construction of Fig. 30 will be treated later on in the If the focus of the camera is shortened or article.
The
to
plaster should
be gone over
lengthened
as
desired,
the
with linseed
oil,
with best white-lead paint, mixed with a large proporA very thin coat only should be tion of turpentine.
phragm to unfold or fold, so that it is always in its The stereo front is made exactly as the front for
pictures, see Fig. 13,
place.
single
page
65.
HOW TO MAKE
I
361
important point,
that the
wood
coated on those parts. There should always be a very small portion of the head above the level of the wood,
parts should be thoroughly well seasoned and perfectly sound in every way, otherwise in course of time you will be sadly disappointed in seeing you have spent your time and money in vain, as they are sure to warp and if so, the stray light is sure to cause that dreadful enemy, fog. Those parts where the thumb-screw works would be very much improved by the addition of a thin brass plate letting in, so that the screw will have a very firm body to screw against of course this is not absolutely necessary, but would add much to the
;
;
and then
also,
if
carefully filed
down with
a very fine
all
file
possible,
in
the screws
attention in
running
tify
the
same
little
your work
much
brass screws
nothing
and brass
which
is
Fig.
of
if let in
is
:
very neatly.
out of f inch
and when finished should swing easily on its hinges and fall on the top of the grooves (see end view,
Fig. 18).
the side
flap,
which
made
wood
if inches wide by si high top piece, 5J inches by j inch; bottom piece, 9^ by I inches. The grain of the
centre piece should run in a vertical direction, and the pans must be tongued and grooved together. After it is perfectly set, shape, as shown in the illustration, round the comers with the small spokeshave, then
it a nice appearance bottom edge must not be bevelled) then saw in two where the vertical line cuts bevel the back
; ;
and hinge with three brass hinges the hinges are the same make as those used for the shutters of
edges,
;
have come to the most important part of If the ground glass of the focussing screen and the prepared plate do not occupy exactly the same position and focus, it will be impossible for the resulting pictures to be sharp, so therefore you must pay great attention to this part. Take the marking gauge, and gauge the exact distance the rebate on which the plate rests in the dark slide, and mark that distance on the wood for the focussing screen then make the rebate, which should be about :j inch wide and g inch deep, so that the ground glass will have a good firm bed to lie upon then mitre, glue,
our camera.
;
;
Now we
The use
and key
that
at all corners,
and when
on reference
flap is
to the isometrical
view
(Fig. 20).
The
may
shown
brass screws, but there must be a thin strip of wood, say inch wide and inch thick, and the full length of the side flap and camera.
The
screen
is
on without
brass fittings to
If the flap was screwed would be no room for the pass up and down between the camera
small brass stud, and the focussing or ground glass by three of the same studs. Of course all the screws
fittings
must be
brass.
and side flap. On reference to the isometrical view, you will see this space the brass arm at the end of the bottom clamp fits into another small brass plate, which is screwed into the end of the base-board, and keeps the base-board and side flap perfectly rigid
;
Inside the back frame or swing-back there is a frame of wood, which should fit very nicely all round.
The
same
as that of the
focussing screen
this
is
for the
purpose of securing
when
in use.
The screw
purpose of screwing the camera down to the tripod, for taking vertical pictures. This plate should be let in flush with the wood. Fig. 19 shows the grooves which the dark slides run the dimensions of the top and bottom pieces are in
flap is for the
;
3 one end of the bellows to, and should be about T ^ in. which should be mitred and keyed at the corners, and then firmly screwed from the outside of the back frame by eight screws, two on each side, and
in thickness,
two top and bottom (see Fig. 20). If any little difficulty should arise as to the use or method of setting up any of the separate parts, I am sure that on reference to the two isometrical views
8| by f inches by T%- inch thick, the side piece, which is simply a plain piece of wood, without any rebates
(see section).
shown
in Figs.
difficulty,
be
it
and 20, these will fully explain the 1 5 what it may. These views have been
After the
wood
is
bore the holes for screws, and glue and screw down, keeping your dark slide in the grooves, so that you will get them in their proper positions.
In countersinking the holes for screws, be careful
drawn in isometric perspective, so as to ensure equality of measure in every part. Now, we have completed all the woodwork, our attention must next be given to the bellows and the different methods that may be followed in their construction, of
you do not go too deep, or when polished they will io jk very bad indeed, as the polish would be thickly
is
rather a round-
362
FIG.
17.
SIDE
FLAP.
>
<!>
<T
zi
FIG. 19.
FIG. 29.
FID. 20.
ISOMETRICAL
FIG.
FIG.
HOW TO MAKE
363
FIG. 28.
FIG.
illll!lll[ll!ll
[I
'
Mill
iTTl
IMfllMllJlll
364
HOW TO MAKE
about method, but is well worthy of place in my arricle, as it is impossible to make any error if the instructions are fully carried out. It is taken from an
old photographic almanac
I
up the bellows
the corners put
came
right) and lay on a flat board, with a heavy book, or weight on the top ; the bellows will then be ready to
day, so therefore
it.
method
adopt myself
the
The second method may be described as follows (for The cardboard is of exactly
;
One
7^ by
One
of the
made
of three pieces
grooved together, the centre piece drawing out, so that the adjoining sides may collapse a little, and so enable you to draw off the bellows when finished for without
;
same thickness as used in the first method cut a number of strips to make a bellows about 12 inches long, and for a camera as described they should be, top and bottom strips 7f inches, side pieces Stretch the black twill upon a level board or 5s inch. table, and secure with drawing pins. On reference to
sufficient
mode
;
of placing
this contrivance
it
would be
difficult to
get off
if
great length.
Commence with the long strips first should only be glued half way, leave the
unglued,
if
hand half
on the sliding piece, and when in its proper position screwed to the other pieces, so as to be as firm as if one piece no ends need be put on the box, but two pieces may be placed diagonally, so as to keep the thing square and rigid. Having got your box made, proceed to cover it with black twilled calico, letting the ends overlap one inch and a half, and paste them together with strong flour paste, which must be boiled and very smooth. Have now ready a sufficient number of pieces of threesheet cardboard cut to inch wide and g inch shorter than the width of the sides of the box. Cut the
fixed
;
would have a double thickness of calico at the corners, which would be very objectionable, as they would fold very badly after the first row is complete. Commence with the second, taking great care to keep every strip perfectly parallel if you do not pay particular attention to this your time and money will be spent in vain and after the third and fourth row are glued on the calico, let it remain for about half-an T hour, then take the pins out, and cut the calico where the first row of strips have not been glued then cut the calico square
about 4i or
;
inches of calico
angles off a
ihe bellows
little
is
so that
when
row
when
first
with the pasting one of the above pieces to form the folds of the bellows, having the
Commence now
be peifectly parallel to
bellows
each
otherwise the
when
fit
squared end of the box towards you, lay on the first piece with the angle cut off towards you, the second piece lay on i inch distant from the first, and the
third,
and succeeding
the bellows
that
when
completed they
and exactness.
proceed
in like
to be,
manner
with the other three sides, being particular as you go on to keep the pieces parallel with the squared end of
the box
;
for this
measure the distance, and see that both ends progress alike also paste both sides of your strips of cardboard, so that they lie flat on the box. After all sides are covered, paste on the outer cover of
rule, so as to
;
The calico on which the form the covering for the inside, so of course the strips must be on the outside when the ends are jointed. Now measure the calico, and cut for the outside covering, leaving sufficient length to lap over about one inch. Of course the joint must not be made on the same strips that the inside pieces are on, or you would have four thicknesses of calico. and certainly I very strongly recomIf desired mend it the outside covering may be of leather instead of calico. The leather can be purchased of the right thickness at most bookbinders' shops, and will
and would
very badly.
is
strips are
glued
to
and
quality of
the skin.
All that remains, after the outer covering
to fold the bellows
;
down
well, so that
no
is
dry, is
In ten to twelve hours the screws can be unloosed from the sliding piece in the side, and after being drawn out, the two adjoining sides can be drawn inwards, and the whole bellows removed from the box without any trouble,
The bellows should not be corners very neatly. secured to the camera till after polishing. All that now remains to be done to our camera is to fit each part in its proper place, and affix the brass fittings.
Stereo
diaphragm.Tig. 30
is
HOW
for stereo purposes.
TO
It
is
3<>S
shears, straighten,
and make
it
and cardboard but the strips are not cut at angles. At each end there is a piece of wood, shaped as shown in the illustration, which fits into slots in the front frame and back frame. There is
lows, with calico
also a piece of elastic running through the holes, as
hammer.
badly.
Do
not knock
too hard, or
will file
up
On
there
is
referring to
draws the diaphragm up when the focus is shortened, and allows the diaphragm to draw out as the camera is lengthened. The use of the diaphragm is to separate the rays of light coming from the lenses. Brass fittings. The tools required for the manu;
shown
this
of the camera
Mark a line across about T\ inch from the bottom, then place the plate in the vice, or on a
board.
then
hard substance, and knock this part at right angles, file up with the cross-cut file, and bore the
and inexpensive,
file
holes with the g inch drill, and countersink with the large drill. If desired, the fittings may be screwed on
and
file
are as follows
my
opinion, are
small hand
very
much improved
in this
1
;
drill,.!
by T35 ths
which
require countersinking.
Then come
rat-tail file.
is
falls
down
and the be
23).
view (Fig. 20). The pinion is turned by a thumb-wheel, which is turned out of brass. There are two small brass steps (not shown), in which the pinion works. These steps are secured to the bottom of the camera, and keep the pinion in its proper position.
will
which
be seen
in the" isometrical
need very
in use.
little
the swing-back.
and not
raised,
To
The
made
of brass,
and should
They
will
want cutting or
;
filing in
two, so as to
back out till the clip falls down into the second slot, and after the desired position is gained, it is clamped by the plate and thumbscrew (Fig. 25). After the plates are cut and filed up, place the under plate in then cut the position, and mark round on the wood
;
necessary
to
fit
make the tooth at the end too weak, or there would be a danger
side of both pieces, taking great care not to
in
wood out with a sharp chisel for the plate then mark the position for the clip, leaving a
release the
sufficient
of
it
giving way.
Then
drill
pieces,
that
and two in the short one, and countersink, so the head of the screw will leave full play for the
Countersink with the large
taking
drill.
;
will slip up and down quite easily. Then screw the top plate in its position, and proceed with the other side in a
plate,
similar manner.
The slots
file.
in the
filed
distance of the teeth at the joint, or hinged part of is the same distance as the rest. The
left
teeth should be
pinion
will come the clamping screw and plate (Fig. This plate has a long slot in the centre, as shown, in which the thumbscrew passes through and is fixed into the side of the camera, after the plate is cut and
Next
25).
of the centre
Mark
slot,
frame of the camera, just so that the pinion will turn round freely. Do not groove out any more than is really
necessary, or the
ness.
then punch a number of holes with the punch, and drill out with the drills, file up with the stand-file, so
that the
body
will
be liable to lose
its
firm-
thumbscrew
will
pass up and
down
freely.
Then
proper depth
fastened
run in from the inside of the camera, and when the is arrived at which will be found by placing the body on the base-board, with the pinion
to the
two
and one
in the
down
screwed
in position
two plates, which should be cut out of sheet brass (gauge No. 19), same size as
will require
Now you
(all
camera.
If the
camera
made
full
as described,
height of
the
Fig. 28
One
of
these plates contains a hole for the pinion wheel to fit in, as will be seen in the illustration. Mark the size
for this plate, 2 inches
by i inches
camera, one plate, as Fig. 25, will have to be secured from slipping up and down by a round-headed screw, which should be screwed so that the plate will work If desired, you may rather stiffly, but not too lightly.
;66
AND
USE.
:
if
so,
have free
screwed
is
focussing screen in
is
is
bottom groove of the back, and keeps the The ground glass its proper place.
its
E now come
tricycle.
kept in
there
The frame
ij-
is
composed of
iron
one at the side of the camera near the top, which keeps the dark slide from pulling out when the shutter is drawn (see Fig. 15, page 65). Fig. 24 is a small clip, which is secured to the bottom of the camera, and holds the side flap in its place at the back of the camera when folded. Fig. 29 is the female screw, which receives the clamping screw for the purpose of securing the camera
to the tripod.
tubing,
inches
in
diameter outside
measure.
The long
and
aft,
The steering centres are 4 feet 9 inches long. brazed into the ends of this tube, as already mentioned.
let in flush
showing curved upwards along its central part. The two ends are kept straight in line with each other, so that both
Fig.
1
is
a side view of
this tube,
it
various connections.
As
will
be seen,
is
rigid
The plates that hold the base and when in use are shown in Fig. 20 the side flap is made of very thick brass
;
side boards
steering centres
will
The
the plate on
;
curved part
is
that on the
Tubes are generally the straight of about 3 inches. bent hot, but in this case the bend is so slight that it
made and
them
off,
fitted in their
may
be done cold.
it
through
and work
easily, take
ready for lacquering. The reason they are not lacquered before they are fixed is, that they would be
very liable to get scratched or dirty.
The
that
is
object of lacquering
is
to preserve
a polish
is a connection called has a branch projecting upwards at right angles, which receives the end of the
On
(Fig.
enlarged).
It
is
so,
therefore,
your fittings up with the fine the edges are bevelled, they will look
finished.
all
the
more
arched tube, which stretches to the other side of the frame. These T's, as well as the tubing, may be bought from gas engineers. The T's are screwed to The pipes when fit the exterior diameter of the pipes.
them a very
Apply
;
screwed are cut nearly half through, and so very much weakened, consequently quite unsuitable in a tricycle so, frame, where any strain is to be put upon it instead of making the long tube in two parts, and
;
cost,
screwing
about iod. to Is. 6d., according to size. The brush should be broad enough to cover the breadth of the
widest plate, and you must not go over the same surface twice, but must be done with a steady, single
sufficiently to slip
ends into the T, I file out the T it on to the tube, and the tube for The this purpose should be filed bright and clean. T should be driven along the tube somewhat tightly,
the
as the neater the
fit
it
hold brazing
sweep.
In the illustrations,
;
all
the
woodwork
is
drawn
not
metal.
If
it is
may be
is
brazed without
drilled
to \ scale
the fittings
full size.
through
my
readers
who do
I
one side of
sure the
brazing.
and
tube,
in to
make
same
make
their
fittings,
have
in the
process of
made arrangements
Legh
Street,
Warrington,
The
marked B
put on in the
Of
;
do not expect the amateur will attempt to make his own rack, pinions, and thumb-screws so therefore I have fully described the necessary requirements, and Mr. Waine will, no doubt, quote for any
article desired.
branch turned downwards to receive It the depending tube which carries the pedal shaft. is sufficiently in advance of T a to show 5 inches of In this space, and close up the tube between them. to T b is a bracket, or lug, which carries the steering
way, but with
its
Now
our camera
polishing,
which
will
A is the This bracket is shown (Fig. 4) upper side, B the edge. It is made of iron 1 inch broad and TV inch thick. The ends are of unequal length, and when fixed on the tube it has the long end undermost. The object of this will be seen from an
handle.
;
67
3 68
examination of the
the steering pinion
6, A, b),
and
fitted
The two
and have
through this
slot a bolt passes, which bolt is secured to the bracket on either side of the pinion,one of the said bolts passing right up through bracket and tube. To further secure it it may be brazed. A similar bracket, but with both ends equal, is fixed to the opposite side of the frame
bored and screwed to receive the rod ends. The rods may thus be adjusted to a nicety in order to get the two wheels to run exactly in line.
on one end a
solid piece,
which
is
In Fig.
It is
of the
that side.
for
about
for the
other handle.
or jaws are
Inside
is
it
is
inserted a tube
screwed \ inch, and the handle-rod has some 4 inches of its lower end screwed. Its handle-rod thus passes through both jaws of the bracket, and when placed at a suitable height is locked with a nut under the bracket. The steering handle-rod, however, passes through plain holes in its bracket. It also passes through the pinion which has a long boss. A series
of holes are bored through the handle-rod, and one
of I inch
diameter.
It
up and down
for
is
through the boss of the pinion, so the handle is in this way adjustable through some 4 inches by simply inserting a pin through any desired hole, and through
the boss, the holes in the bar
all
its
be seen, is adjustable. The rod is turned, and passes neatly through a hole in the bracket, which is firmly brazed to the crosstube. A set-screw fixes the rod effectually at the
will
The
pinion
is
prevented
desired height.
small angle bracket (p) attached to the depending tube, as shown (Fig. 1). Under the T, in the centre of the long tube is
The
main
axle
is
bolted
This
is
One
of the
inches,
and
holds in tension the long stay-rod called by engineers a " bow-string." This bow-string is 3 feet 9 inches
long, of I inch round rod iron
;
up and made
bolt.
sufficiently
broad
simpler
way
is
that
may be done
under the T same as on the right side. The chain wheel is fitted on the axle inside the frame, close up to the bearing. It is keyed on, a slot being cut in the wheel boss, and a flat filed on the axle. The lower chain wheel is keyed on the pedal-shaft in the same way, and also inside the bearing. The brake-drum, 4 inches in diameter, is also keyed on the main shaft, close up to the outside of the bearing. This drum has a flange on one side to keep the strap in place
;
is
inch broad.
It is cast in
little
aid of a blacksmith
to screw A inch of
each end
and
is
very
light,
through the tube, when nuts are To give the rod due tension, some screwed on. two inches of the lower end of the short central stay are screwed two nuts are used one above and the other below the bow-string. Fig. 2 shows the upper side of the frame complete. The arched cross tube is here shown with seat-rod bracket in the centre. This is also shown in elevation
length to pass
;
web \ inch (see Fig. 7, which gives section of drum and flange of hub of driving wheel). In this section are shown two holes through the web of the drum of \ inch diameter. In the hub are two pins to correspond and enter these holes so the drum being keyed on the shaft, the
over
-rj
is
The
(Fig.
1).
is
only
depending
screwed on outside the hub, the end of the axle beingreduced to f inch for that purpose. The driving wheel is thus made a fixture to the axle, and at the same time may be removed in a few seconds by taking off
the nut.
furnished with a
tube which carries the pedal-shaft on that side. It is T to receive the end of the crosstube on that
side.
is
side in
end of
bending round, joins the long where the end is tube at an angle of about 45 flattened and bolted on. In Fig. 2 the steering arrangement is shown complete, the arms projecting from the sides of the forks
this T, and, after
,
manner shown, and pulled upwards towards the spade handle. The strap is spring steel one inch broad, and inside it is a strap of leather riveted on. I makes a first-rate brake, and is very powerful, stopping
the the machine in a couple of yards, without the slighest
The
tendency
to
rider forward.
369
In
driving gear, as
it
many machines
the
handle
I
is
pear-shaped, projecting
the simplicity of
its
prefer,
however, to have
it
of the materials.
same as the steering, both hands then grip the same form. I made these handles without the aid
of a blacksmith. a piece of iron f inch broad, and inch thick, bent cold to the shape shown; the ends
is
As
of
my
It is
lines,
it
The handle
Homely
as
looks,
much
5-
are bored for \ inch wire, and the centre bored and squared to receive the rod the grip handle is of rose;
wood.
shape;
It is first
bored through
its
then placed
in the forked
piece after
it
has
to the rod.
The
wire
is
driven
better than one I saw in Glasgow the other day "National" two track rear-steerer, made in Coventry. The get up of the iron work, and the general finish, was simply frightful and the amateur who could not turn out a better finished tricycle should abandon mechanics and go in for farming. Since commencing these papers, I have constructed a new tricycle, which I should like on a future
;
The handles
filing.
are,
of
course, finished
up neatly by
part of the
Amateur
Work.
it
remains to be said that there is nothing in it that the ordinary clever amateur mechanic may not readily do, even to the smith's work. The pedalshaft may be bought in the rough, or finished from a
maker, pedals
have also constructed a bicycle of the safety and of a type I have not yet seen or heard of. This, also, I may have an opportunity of describing. Meantime, having done with our first tricycle, I
I
family,
will, in
own
pedals,
made my
The
only
approval
of
Amateur Work,
be
chains, to-
work
steering centres,
finished up.
It
drilled,
is
screwed, and
modern bicycle, the principles of its construction, the mechanical details of its parts, and the management of the machine as a vehicle of locomotion.
most happy
to give
full
description of the
made
;
of gas
==
and a maker would laugh at the idea however that maybe, the machine looks lighter, is as light in weight, is as rigid, substantial, and safe as any machine on the road costing twenty guineas, and mine cost less than four, not including labour, but including rubber tyres, which cost twenty shillings. As to the merits of the machine itself, I have only to reiterate what I stated in the outset, that the
tubing,
MARK
WICKS.
Jfrr^^lr
VI, THE STOP ACTION AND COUPLERS,
mechanism by which
may
is,
steering,
As
by an inspection of
which
is
a plan, or view
nothing to match it for safety in the whole tricycle family ; in fact, you canhill, I
down
believe there
is
wooden trundle
stop-action
and
in Fig. 73
not
make a
spill
with
it,
con-
The most
is,
convenient arrange-
keep
its
feet,
so to _speak,
till
it
ment
knobs
recommend
this
type of tricycle to the attention of all intending builders, as being easy to construct, easy to stable, easy to drive,
It is this
now being
letters
described
kind of arrangement that the stop action is especially adapted for. The
the diagrams refer to the
and a good luggage carrier. In this latter respect, I have taken many lengthy trips with an eight-year old boy sitting behind on a seat I can attach for that purpose, and which adds only five pounds to the weight of the machine. It is to be noted, also, that this type of machine requires no complex and costly differential double
marked on
tions of both
stop, the
is
knob of which projects on the outside of the case of the instrument, and the other end of this stop rod is, for the sake of economy, generally
mortised into a square rod, as shown at
right roller, or trundle as
it
B.
An
up-
is
37
ing an arm
pin,
C, to which B is connected by a centreand another similar arm E at right angles to the first one, is connected in the same manner to the trace F, in the lower end of which the lever G is fixed, and the upper end of the lever passes through a square or round hole in the end of the slider. The trundle D works on centres in a strip of wood both top and bottom, as more clearly shown in Figs. 75 and 76. When the stop knob is drawn out the arm c is pulled
which are centred on a stout wire similar to backfalls. The levers may be sloped forwards as shown in Figs.
to the
75 and 76, or they may all be perpendicular according space you have at your disposal. The levers are
is is
twice as long
backwards, which thus causes the trundle to turn the arm E is drawn backwards and carpartly round ries with it the trace and the lower end of the lever
;
thus,
if
the stop
knob
made to draw
G the upper end of the lever thus moves to the right and draws out the slider. When the stop knob is pushed in this action is, of course, reversed, and the
;
slider closed.
The rod A
is
of
inch round
mahogany
B,
D,
and
F are each about i inch square, and may be of any hard wood that will not warp. The rollers, or trun-
about 8 inches long, and placed in a direct one behind the other, about 6 inches apart, as shown in Figs. 75 and 76. The arms C and E are each about 4 inches long and \ inch thick, thinned down at the ends where they are connected to the stop The arm c is placed rod, or trace, as the case may be. exactly opposite to the stop knob, but the arm E is
dles, d, are
line
its
exact
If the
inches, the slider will move f inch, which 1 h be a very convenient length for both movements. The stop knobs are turned something like drawer knobs, and generally have a plate of porcelain or ivory let into them with the name of the stop on it. These can be purchased for a small sum, but if you prefer to make your own arid save the expense, you can make the labels of paper and print the names on them, and glue them on to the stop knobs, giving them a coat of varnish to protect them from dirt. The label should show both the name of the stop and also its foot-tone, thus " Open Diapason, 8 feet," " Flute, 4 feet," etc. Fig. 75 shows the stop action at the bass end of the single manual for scheme 1, the top knob being for the Principal, the next for the Stopt Diapason, and the lower one for the Violoncello. The order of the stops at the- treble end would be reckoning from the
about
will
top
downwards
3.
as
follows
4.
1.
Flageolet;
2.
Stopt
in
Diapason,
to
Keraulophon,
it
Open Diapason.
In order
above the key-board being less than 1 5 inches, the arms E maybe much lower down, as it is obvious that it may be in any position in the length of the trundle that may be most convenient. The arms are both tenoned into the trundles, and the pins on which the trundles work should be stout and strong, and driven tightly in. The strip of hard wood, H, in which the top centres work may be about 3 inches wide and f inch thick, and should be firmly secured to the framework of the instrument. A similar strip may be placed for the
show
that
is connected to the furthest slider, I have given, in Fig. 76, a view of the bass end of the two manual with stops arranged in the opposite way Here <he top stop draws the to those in Fig. 74. Lieblich Gedacht on the swell organ, the next the Keraulophon, the third one the Stopt Diapason-bass of the great organ, and fourth the Flageolet. The Keraulophon might be made to draw from the treble end if
the lower
knob
you so
desire.
bottom pins to -work in, or they may work in holes bored through the board on which the key-board All these pivot holes must be bushed with rests.
woollen cloth to secure silent action. The trace F must be long enough to reach from the arm E to the
lever
The
is
still
when
the stop
is
pushed
in,
and
will,
of course,
trundle D works end and in a collar at the The arm C is connected to the stop knob rod as in the other action, and a bent arm at the top The of the trundle forms both the trace and lever.
wooden trundle
on a pivot upper end.
just described.
The
at the lower
vary in length according to the length of the soundboard of the instrument. The lever G is i\ inches wide and f inch thick, made of hard wood and shaped
trundle
may
be
made
passed
shown in Fig. 73. The upper end of the lever works in the slot in the end of the slider, and the lower end passes through a mortise in the end of the trace,
as
through holes drilled in the trundle, and riveted at the back, the front end of the arm c being flattened
out,
drilled through
wire to pass.
into
piece of hard
wood should be
driven
and
is
A
lever
still
way
is
and pass
the bottom of the tubing, and the iron pivot If the trundle is made of solid fixed firmly into it. iron, the top arm is merely a continuation of it, being
372
Another
which is well suited manual organ with few stops and especially where there is not sufficient height above the key-board for a trundle action is shown in Fig. A board about the same length as the sound77. board, and nearly as wide, is placed just above the key-board, leaving just sufficient room for the keys to work. The draw stops are placed in a horizontal line over the key-board, and are connected at the back end to what is termed a square. This square is made of a inch mahogany, mitred together as shown
in
both edges
it
a saw cut is made in the thickness of from the sharp corner down as far as the dotted line, and a piece of veneer is then glued
end of the manual backfalls of the same key, it is not it is connected to the front end of the thirteenth backfall higher up the scale. Thus, if we assume the key shown to be the CC note, the back end of the coupler backfall will be connected to its own sticker on that key, but the front end of it will be connected by the tapped wire shown to the front end of tenor C backfall of the manual action, and when the CC key is pressed down, and the coupler is in action, it will cause the CC note and the tenor C note to sound together. So on all through, the coupler backfalls, each being connected to the note an octave higher up the scale than that over which the tail end
so in reality, but
starting
it,
into
thus
making the
in
If the
would be very
is
coupler backfalls will therefore slope to hand, whilst the bass backfalls of the manual will slope to the left. If a roller board is used to transfer the first four notes of the tenor octave
rests.
The
the right
break when
use.
centre hole
made
near the sharp corner and bushed with cloth, and a small hole is also made through near each of the
other angles.
on the manual to the treble side, a similar roller board must be used to transfer the first four notes in
the bass of the coupler to those four notes in the tenor
at the treble end.
The
This
roller
board
I
will
be placed
the
bell crank.
instead of
wood
also very similar to a cranks might indeed be used squares. The cranks are screwed
may perhaps be as
well
if
me
from referring
will
on sound-boards.
The organ
board by a screw passing through the bushed hole, and through a little block of wood placed underneath the square to raise it the requisite The height, and to prevent unnecessary friction. rods marked f are the traces, which are connected at
down
to the
one end to the levers just the same as in the trundle end being connected by a screw or pin to the vacant corner of the square belonging to
action, the other
its
undoubtedly be much more perfect if there are twelve more channels in the treble portion of the soundboard, so that the octave coupler can be carried right up to the top G in tieble. It is obvious that without this arrangement, the highest octave in the treble would not be coupled to any other notes, so that when using the coupler, it would be limited to the first
3H octaves on the key board. If these additional channels are made, however, it will add six inches to the length of the sound-board, and necessitate the
carrying of each stop in the treble, an
that
is
The
stops
scheme
the
Principal being
for
all
these stop actions, the holes in the case through which the stop knobs pass should be lined with scarlet or
octave higher,
course,
cloih,
those stops.
These pipes
will,
of
only be
The
brought into use when the octave coupler is in action. Amateurs, therefore, must decide for themselves
whether they
for use
will
sixty-
the trundle actions, should be screwed at one end, and a leather button put on to prevent the wires
falling
out.
etc.,
may work
smoothly.
The
termed,
the
it is
sometimes
under
with the octave coupler only. Very many organs are constructed without them but I thought treating on the it only right to mention it here when coupler action, so that those amateurs who wish their
;
shown
in Fig. 78,
and
consists of a bridge
and
stickers immediately
manual
backfalls.
The
stickers
of the coupler
The
action.
coupler
is
shown
in the
are placed as close to the manual stickers as they can The back be, without interfering with their action.
When
the stop
knob
is
drawn
out,
it
causes
ends of the coupler backfalls rest on these stickers directly over their own keys, but it must be distinctly understood that though in the diagram the front ends
of this backfall appear to be connected to the front
the coupler bridge with its backfalls to drop about half-an-inch, and it will then be in the position shown by the dotted lines, the front end of the backfall
resting on the leather nut which
is
screwed on the
end.
wire,
ORGAN BUILDING FOR AMATEURS.
The holes in its own sticker. these backfalls are made rather elongated so as to allow them to slip up and down on the wires of the
resting on the top of
stickers,
573
to secure silent action.
The
should be bushed with the centre wires must be very strong, and the
the centres
and the tapped wires connecting them to the manual backfalls. The manner in which the draw
stop accomplishes
the
requisite
ends tapped to admit of a nut being screwed on to keep the wheels in position.
movement
is
is
as
connected
The inclined planes may be two inches or three inches long, and should rise about half-an-inch, being
just
sufficient
arm c, on the underside of a long roller running the whole length of the sound-board (see Fig.
is
to
allow
the
action to
be out of
79).
Opposite each end of the coupler bridge there another arm on this roller or trundle, which is
gear when the coupler stop is closed. These inclined planes should also be covered with soft leather, and all parts well blackleaded where they rub.
is made to work the reverse way would appear if you hold the page up to the light, and look through the paper at the drawing, or as it would be seen reflected if held before a mir-
connected to a jointed rod carrying a little inclined plane passing under a wheel on the end of the backfall rail.
If this action
is,
that
as
it
fall rail
be observed that it is cut to a shoulder, and runs between two upright pieces of wood. The wheel projects from the end, and two similar wheels are fixed to the cross piece underneath, and on these wheels the rod carrying the inclined plane works. When the stop is pushed in the inclined planes are drawn backwards, thus causing both ends of the bridge to rise at the same time, and the wheels then rest on the litfle squares at the ends of the inclines. The coupler
is
it could be placed under the backfalls instead of behind the stickers, which, however, I think is the
ror
it.
On
Another kind of movement for effecting the shifting up and down of the coupler bridge is shown in Fig. 80. This is merely a roller with two cams on it which is fixed directly under the bridge (see No. 2, Fig. 78), the cams working against two little wheels fixed on the under side of the bridge. The cams can easily be made as follows Take a piece of \ inch mahogany, and with the compasses strike two segments with a radius of 4 inches each, and about I \ inch below the
:
pushed forward, and the bridge itself then rests firmly on the cross pieces at each end, and the coupler can be brought into use. The position in which the coupler trundle is placed, is shown on Fig. 78, at B, and it would thus be just behind the roller board, and quite out of the way of any part of the action. The upright guides for the ends of the bridge, and the pieces in which the centres of the trundle work can be fixed to the building frame where required. The arm connected with the stop-rod maybe placed in any
portion of the underside of the trundle, so that
exactly opposite the stop knob.
it
view.
and then cut the segment out as shown in the enlarged The top left hand corner should be flat, as this
when the coupler is out of and the whole of the top edge should be covered with soft leather. The cams should be securely fixed on to the trundle, and the draw-stop
part supports the bridge
action,
rod
the
may
cams or to a separate arm according as it may be most convenient. The cams being fixed to a trundle
at a point below their centre causes the front ends to be higher than the back ends are when brought to the same position by drawing out the stop knob, and this causes the bridge to rise or fall according as the stop
is
The roller or trundle must be stout and strong, but need not necessarily be round. If of wood, it should be about iA inches diameter, and of wellseasoned material, the arms being mortised into it.
If
knob
is
pushed
in or
drawn
out.
It will
be understood
made
of iron,
pieces
when
the coupler
is is
in action,
but
when
it
is
well,
making them up
supported. by the little wheels resting on the square part of the inclined
out of action the bridge
planes, or of the cams, as the case
must be of very thin hard wood, or stout sheet brass. This arm is marked D on Fig. 79. The rods carrying the inclined planes should be tolerably stout so as not to
rod, which passes between the stickers,
may
be.
The
coupler
to great
it
directions
for
either a single
or two-manual instrument,
but
the
now
to
be described
will
only be applicable to
It is
bend
at
all,
wood
in order to
and should run between fiat pieces of keep them horizontal. The wheels
is
in action
may be
of hard
wood turned
pose, or may be formed of stout reels, on which sewing-machine cotton has been wound, and should
3?5
in pencil over the
pushes up the tail end of the same key on the This coupler is shown in position at A, Fig. 83,
it
the upper
Carefully bush
A bar,
or
rail,
of
wood
tail
is
them
each
the
requisite length,
viz.,
tween the upper flat surface of the great keys and the flat under side of the swell keys. Smooth the tumblers well so that they slide easily in the bushed holes prepared to receive them, then round them at each end
with a piece of glass-paper
;
when
the coupler
is
in action the
tumbler
is
in
the
make
tapped wire, with a wooden or thick leather nut covered with soft leather on the under side, runs through every swell key in the position shown, and by screwing this wire up or down the action of each tumbler may be regulated to the utmost nicetv. 'When the tumbler is out of action it is
position
in
shown
Fig. 84.
and cut a strip of soft leather and glue a piece of it round each tumbler near the top, as shown, in order to prevent it slipping too low
them too
short,
when out
the lower
leather,
of action.
The
so
black-leaded,
that
the
TO STOP KNOB
gSP
SWELL KEY
|,_-_ ,-
FIG. 84.
SWELL
lines,
TO GREAT COUPLER.
is
m
is
ENLARGED VIEW.
in the position
and
out
glide easily
up the
incline
the
were placed as shown at B on Fig. 83 it would couple the great organ to the swell, so that both the organs w ould be played from the upper manual, and it would then be called " the great to swell unison coupler.'' There are many
If the coupler
7
stop action.
The draw-stop action for the swell to great coupler very similar to that belonging to the octave coupler.
roller,
or trundle, B,
shown
in section
on Fig.
84, is
and
it is
The
tumbler
shown in Fig. 79, with two arms on the underside, and a flat rod, C, connecting each arm to the short arms shown on the back of the tumbler rail in Fig. 85. The arm D, connecting it
made
tenon,
rail
is
1 a inch thick. It is shown and you will observe that a shoulder, or formed at each end of it the length of the
;
is,
and, as will be seen, the angle at which it The inclines is the same as that of the lower arms.
up to these shoulders being the exact width between the two cheeks of the key-board, which will be about 2 feet 6 \ inches. The tenons work in a mortise, or slot, in the key cheeks, which slots must be made about 5 inches long so as to allow sufficient travel for the rail. Bore a hole about \ inch diameter directly over the centre line of each key on the great organ, the positions of the holes being obtained by removing
shown in action, but when the stop is arms will be in the position shown by dotted lines. The arms, C, and the connecting rods, A, must be thin so as to allow them respectively to pass between the swell backfalls or the stickers on the
movement
is
pushed
in the
Great care must be taken in fixing the trundles for any of these coupler actions, in order to secure their
376
perfectly level
working.
The
coupler
or wood,
and
is
or fret-worker.
When
to
dry
it
which
will deal
down with
angle.
glass-paper, and
joint,
is
To
be continued'.)
the movable
It is
enable
to
be
set
at
any
made from
{For
Illustrations, see
DVRRANCE. Supplement
in fact, any engraver you have pieces out of his scrap-box for a Cut out one few pence, suitable for the purpose.
to this Part.)
6,
drill
SEND
description
music-stand, which
and countersink them for very thick and short screws, next cut out two pieces as Fig. 7 and one of Fig. 8, which must be inserted between the two latter, and
pinned or soldered in its place. All the pins or rivets required can be obtained from ironmongers, and are known as upholsterers' brass pins, and can be obtained almost any length and thickness. They have rounded
heads, and
are
useful
for
signed and
made
for
my own
use
it
will
is
and
immediately adjustable for both sitting or standing. The most difficult thing for an amateur to make would be the sliding or telescopic portion, Fig. I. This part can, however, be easily obtained from
many
purposes
solder
to
all
amateur.
an such
tin-
work
foil
is
to slightly
is
known
as a three-draw toast-
is.)
By unscrewing
the
is
between,
make
and when you see tin-foil melt, cold, and after filing up you can
hot,
and can be
easily
A
;
square hole
is
now
enough
at
to
made
and
first
once to receive the fittings. The ordinary ones have a thick tube, black varnished for the bottom part (and which contrasts well with the lacquered
other portions are burnished brass. To those requiring a first-class article, there is one sold for 2s., having a richly-embossed tube, burnished on
brass);
its
filing
out with a
flat
this
is
to receive the
The second
down
portion must be
off,
to
go between Fig.
three,
will just
7.
hole
is
now
looks
handsome when
to a lathe
drilled
through
it
all
made
could
up.
riveted, so that
move
nicely.
couple of
make a modified form, or could get some kind friend to make the turned portions. Before commencing, J may say that Figs, and 2 and 2 a are
i
quarter-size
size,
all
The
Fig.
2,
part to
make
and
is
made from
;
thin
and
still,
inch wide
some
;
well
all
can be halved together and glued, making flush, as Fig. 3, or be simply fastened together
it
When
This way would necessiis not near so good the frame is finished, two pieces
4.
and
of wood must be firmly fastened to the bottom portion, and holes bored to receive the brass wires, Fig. 5, for holding back the music. They must be slightly flattened and pointed, then pushed in the holes a very
tight
fit,
would must be a tight fit in the top tube of the stand (Fig. 9 a), and must be pinned or soldered where the fork was in the first instance. The finished joint must now be inserted in the square hole and soldered or riveted in its place, then filed off flush, and after lacquering screwed to the centre of wood frame, which can now receive its last coat of paint if the screws go through the woodwork, cut oft" the points and file flat before finishing oft". Now for bottom portion (shown in section, Fig. 10), which must be made of thicker stuff than the top. Cut two pieces, Fig. 7 and 7 A turn a brass ring, Fig. 13, to be inserted between these pieces, drill a hole in the centre about inch, next turn up in the lathe, Fig. 12. The
thin
(as
washers outside
it.
calliper
washers)
improve
The bottom
pin
?,
fit
in
two
plates.
or better
still,
screwed
first
drawing.
varnish,
spirit,
Now
give
it its
the several
14, and shown in section Fig. 10. All pieces must now be drilled together to
Now
made by
make
12,
a nice
fit.
and adding a little lamp or gas black, which, by the bye, is a good thing for coating either metals
then the ring, next the second plate (see the holes
XIX.
II
Fig.l.
Fig. 7.
Ph
to
tet
Fig. 2.
Plan
Fig.2A.
<$/</e
of Wood Frame
Fleeation o f
Frame
o
Fig. 14.
Plan of the Feet Bars
h ^
Fi{4.12;7i/ffW/V//a/?
Fig. 13.
Centre Ring.
Figl3A.
Section of
Fig. 4.
Ring
for Base
Fig. 10.
Section of Base
Co.,
TIL
p. S.
pURRANCS.
Fig. 7a.
iSect/onat
Elevation
of Joint
of Base
PRESENTED "WITH
IE 0B
WOEK, ILLTJSTEATED.
"Wakd, Lock
i-
Co.,
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
over or solder
;
377
;
pieces, Fig. 14
bend them all to one curve, insert between plates, and rivet. After lacquering, knock into the tube, and if you like make secure with a pin through, but if it is a good fit this is scarcely necessary.
To
round wood larch of small growth and in this, as in all similar open work, it will be desirable to use the method of sawing the ends of pieces, shown in Fig. 10, wherever practicable. The tops of the front collar-posts will be seen to be decorated with some diagonal pieces of rough
wood
oak or
apple-tree.
By
port for
pillars.
creepers,
is
which
is
not
made
plain,
shall
be glad
answer any
question.
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
By
ARTHUR TORKE.
In the sketch, I have placed this summer-house on a little bank, and have made the approach to it by two rustic steps. If such a site can be selected, the building will undoubtedly be more effective than if merely constructed on level ground. Leaving the method of finishing the interior of the house for another paper, I will proceed to describe the most appropriate method of covering or roofing rustic summer-houses.
Thatching.
trifle
There
is
but one
way
in which, with-
somewhat
better screened
from weather. As may be seen from the ground plan, Fig. 9, it is in form a long octagon. Its measurements are, from end from back to front, 6 feet height to to end, 10 feet the eaves (as in the last example) 6 feet and height
;
covered, unless,
indeed, the
concealed.
have given,
for, in
my
opinion,
to ridge-piece, 10 feet.
to
be disregarded.
In the details of construction, this summer-house will be seen chiefly to differ from the smaller one
in the
When
method employed
in
forming
its
walls.
These,
seen surmounting a building of rustic woodwork, every covering of slates, tiles, or metal, looks out of place, and suggests jarring ideas. The only
is one of thatch. Thatching is a simple operation, and one which with paying attention to a few essential points, may easily be performed by anyone, sufficiently well to keep a building dry. Really good thatching, however, can only be the result of practice, and involves some technical skill and there are few things in which the difference between good and bad work is more marked. Really good thatching will stand for twenty years average thatching is only computed to last for ten. If a good thatcher is to be found in the neighbourhood in which the work is to be done, I should rather advise the amateur builder to engage him than to undertake the business himself. .A thatcher expects only the wages of a first-class labourer, and not those of a mechanic, and is not, therefore, a costly workman. In many districts, however, no professed thatcher is to be met with, and the readers of Amateur Work have, moreover, a right to know how everything can be done so I will describe the process of thatching as
as shown, are built in a very expeditious manner. The straight larch poles are simply ranged side by
side.
These
trees, if
grown
so regularly shaped, that they will, without chopping, The chinks left fit together with sufficient exactness.
between
the
will
may
be stopped
in
manner
to
be described
hereafter.
If the top
as in
ends of the uprights employed are sawn, Fig. 10, and then nailed on both sides to the
it
wall-plates,
will
is
movement above
be impossible. Below, they may be let into the and further held in ground, two or three inches place by nailing the ledges along the inner side, six;
teen inches from the ground-line, which are eventually to carry the back of the seat, and which will thus
serve a double purpose.
In Fig.
1 1
is
made
at the
sufficiently plain.
The two
future centres
ends of the ridge-piece, are intended to be the and supports of straw pinnacles to be formed round them at the completion of thatching.
;
briefly as possible.
Along the
its
front of this
summer-house, except at
serves to enclose
6 inches high.
This
trellis
and give
completeness to the building, and is intended to supIt is made of port creepers of the lighter kinds.
When a building which has already been thatched has to receive a new coating, the best as well as the cheapest material is stubble, which is the lower and But for thatching a new stiffer part of wheat straw. building stubble is not long enough, and straw, or a
37
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
the jack enables the thatcher to take
mixture of straw and stubble, is preferable. It has first to be damped, and the water well shaken and soaked
into
it,
at
He
and
it is
then
In re-
hands,
as
so as to lay
new
in
material place
the
the
is
may be
parallel to
kept
each
the
other.
When
who
straw
thrusting
by upper
straw
person
the
ends
into
of
the
"draws"
old thatch
with a
In wholly
Such a doubleis
cord
FIG. II.
ing."
This
is
handful
called
technically
"yelven."
passed,
by
means
of a gigantic needle,
For
use, a
number
of
FIG.
these
yelvens
are
straw
towards
the
placed in
a "jack,"
THATCH SHOWING
which
overlapped
by
laying
The
ing
layer
which
them
across
each
other ataslightangle.
been
laid
and
When
is
the thatcher
for
and overlapping
just the lower
it
so
the jack,
by a
its
little
hook
to
fixed to
end,
ends
on,
to
reaching
eaves to
der.
he and
he binds
He takes a strip
just
piece
When
has
the
thatch
of roof on which he
is
been
it
laid
he
at
work
is
square,
bottom
to top will
be
If
resemb-
of equal breadth.
the space
lar,
is
head of a
at
trianguwill
the
strip
knocked out
9. GROUND PLAN OF MEDIUM SUMMER-HOUSE.
is
taper
regularly
upthatching
encJ s0 as
form
one a
wards,
strip of
technically
known as
in
a "stelch."
The manner
in
'
handle. The object of this combing is to draw out any loose short straws which, by lying crosswise, might obstruct the free course of water, to bring the
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
straw of the thatch more completely into that regular longitudinal direction necessary to throwing off the
rain quickly and effectually, and generally to give a neat appearance to the work, which, when finished, should be perfectly even and uniform.
parts, to
379 The
foot,
two or three turns with the hand. This gives the fibres in the middle, where they have to be doubled,
a spiral direction, like that of the strands in a rope, and prevents any danger of breaking. They can then
all
to
to end,
for use
which forms the edge of the former stelch. In care, or want of care, shown in this particular, lies one of
now look like ladies' hair-pins on a large scale. The runners are merely long strips of split withe,
FIG.
SIZE.
bad thatching.
two are not properly united a weak joint will be formed, through which rain will probably find its way.
to
be
still
surface
further secured and bound by " buckles " and " runners,"
which may be seen indicated in the general views of summer-houses. Buckles are made by taking withes about as large as a little finger, and splitting them. For such work as that before us they should be from 12 to 18 inches long. The two ends are pointed, and the middle is shaved somewhat thinner than other
which are laid so as to form horizontal bands along the thatch. These are held down by the buckles, through the loops of which they run, and which are thrust firmly into the thatch. In pushing in the buckles, an upward direction must be kept, as shown in Fig. 12, otherwise the water would trickle down beside them and make its way through the roof. The runners are braced down by buckles at intervals of from six inches
to a foot, according to circumstances.
It is always usual to buckle-down the thatch at a few inches below the ridge, and at a few inches above
3 8o
the eaves.
particularly ex-
Those made
silver (a
to imitate
posed
added.
to wind, extra
may be
of
German
kind
of brass
;
illustrations, are
adopted
for the
bound down, the eaves require to be pared, and made even, and trimmed with shears. The method of finishing off and uniting the thatch at the ridge is in the best work accomplished by a
kind of
plaiting, but
how
this is
done
whitened with nickel), of Britannia metal, or of zinc it will be well, therefore, to determine the quality of the metal before we attempt to solder it. Not long since I had a cruet-frame sent me to be re-plated it was bought at a " cheap jack's " stall, for 5s. 6d., and was dear at that price, for it was made up as follows handle and recesses, brass frame, stamped Britannia feet, metal bottom, tin plate, soft soldered on stamped brass the whole thinly electro-plated total value not more than 2s. Now, if an amateur had
;
common
on
this,
is to cap the ridge with mortar, made of road dirt. Houseleek, or stonecrop, planted soon overspreads it, and renders it by no
means
Fig.
8,
unsightly.
are
tightly.
and had proceeded to solder the frame on the assumption that this also was brass, he would have been surprised to see the whole ornamental parts drop from the rest in a shapeless mass. In mending such composite articles as these, the softest solder
of the metal,
be seen that
at the point
is
finished, that
I and 2, it will where the thatching has been immediately above the hinder end of
only
is
it
its
use,
and
be found safer to use the soldering-iron than the blow-pipe. This latter tool may be used in
soldering small articles
or of
at the
made
end of that timber, though the ridge-piece itself The extra height is gained by making-up is level. with straw and this is an expedient that may be resorted to whenever it may be found useful. Thus any irregularity in the rafters matters little when they are to be thatched upon. Any depression can easily be made up with straw, and the level of the outer sur;
German
silver to
imitate silver,
and
for
the
be found most easy to work, with the solution of Manufacturers of this class of jewellery use a solder nearly approaching the
fusible point, but the
(To be continued.)
and not far below it in strength and amateur will require considerable experience in soldering before he will be able to
safely venture with
little
articles.
A
my
deemed
readers.
may
prove interesting to
GEORGE EDWINSON.
Brass.
Paris brass
;
12 parts zinc;
ERE
on repair-
would be
indefinitely extended,
and the
me.
I will,
is
not
my
inten-
and Birmingham brass, of 61 parts copper, 39 parts zinc. These may all be hard soldered with Bath metal solder, composed of 79 parts tough brass and
21 parts of zinc, using borax as a flux, or soft " spelter"
same
little
aid
may mend
for
the
purpose;
but
home, when that home is situated at some distance from a working jeweller's shop. Articles of jewellery bought of "cheap jacks" at country fairs are usually
amateurs will do well to use one of the most fusible solders mentioned in my last. Aluminium Gold. An alloy of copper with aluminium in the proportion of 96 parts copper to 4 parts
made
of brass or of
German
silver,
although sold
of
tint
under more highly-sounding names. Imitations of gold sold under the name of aluminium gold, and other fancy names, should be really described under the name of brass perhaps electro-gilt, but more often merely dipped for they are only made of a
make
sembling various qualities of gold, and mixtures of zinc or even of iron with certain proportions of the above-mentioned metals are also sold under the specific term "gold," but "all that glitters is not
>,8i
and the solder may be applied in the form of filings mixed with a little borax, or in small flat chips of
sheet solder
Stive?.
term covers a variety of alloys in which the precious metal itself is employed in varying proportions. This will be seen at a glance from the following table compiled from information contained in the " Practical Gold-Worker," by Geo. Gee.
Gold.
Qnality.
This
named
" pallions."
silver,"
of
alloys
which
silver is
be
Gold.
23 parts
22
Silver.
i
Copper.
} part 1 ,
seen at a glance from the following table compiled from information published in " The Silversmith's
^"g
19 05 19-08
18-68
23 carat 22 20 18 , 15 13 12 10
part
2,102 Fahr.
2,00!-
20 18
15
,
2 3 3
3
, ,
Handbook," by Geo. E. Gee. This book and its companion before-mentioned will be found most invaluable to both amateur and professional jewellers. They
are published by Messrs. Crosby
3s.
2
3
2,002
.....1,995
1,9S)2
,
,
1787
47-05 15-74
14-86 13-06
13-02
Lockwood
&
Co., at
6
8
13 12 10 9
1,990
1,987 1,982
31
S| 10
10* lOi
Name.
Silver.
oz.
Copper. **
oz.
Nickel,
oz.
...
4i 5i
, ,
1,979 1,973
s*
oz.
d.
12-82
dwt
gr.
dwt
gr.
dwt
gr.
... ...
... ...
dwt
gr.
s.
Compo., or composition, is a mixture of copper and zinc used by jewellers in alloying gold, and the spelter above-mentioned is commercially pure zinc, not the soft spelter used as a solder. The following table
will
Filigree Silver ...Pure ...0 1 Standard, Hall ...0 19 6 ... 2 Standard, Coin... 18 12 ... 18 ... 3 Silver Alloy
abt. 5
18
1 12
...
...
4
5
6 7
16 15
0... 0...
2 4 5
6 6 7
7
...
0... 0...
0...0
0... 1
0...
,,
14 0...0 13 12...
13
0...
show the
mind
8 9 10
11
12 12... 12 0...0
...
8
17 16 2
0...
0...
4 11 4 8 4 7 4 1 3 10 3 7 3 6
3 3 2 6
0...0 0...0
13
...
,,
3 3
2 2 2
always be
Common Silver.. .1
...1
...1 ...0
degrees below the melting point of the alloy to be soldered, and in the lower qualities of gold only the No. 5 solder should be used.
12
0...
10 12 ...0
3 12
13 14 Chinese Silver
15 Imitation
0...1
18
...
1 1
0...0 15 ... 4
...
U...0
...
Cobalt,
3 dwt. 18 gr. abt.
...0
...
6 12
1
...
4 18
1 22
Name. Fine Silver. Copper. Hard Solder ... 16 parts ... 3} parts ...
Spelter.
\ part
...
Fusing Point1,866
Fahr.
16 17 18
German
Silver
...0
...0
0.0
...
3 18...
...
4
5
0...1
0... 1
2... 3...
Medium
Easy
15 14
121
...4
...
4J
...
If
1
...1,843
...1,818
number
of other
4 5
...
...
,,
...6
... 61,
...14
...2
11}
1JS26' ...1,802
...
coloured solders are used in soldering gold articles that have to be coloured after the process of
81
3 parts
4
5
The
manufactured to resemble silver, but in most cases entirely innocent of even a bare contact with that metal, although sold under the name of English silver, Albata silver, Potosi silver, Nickel silver, and silverine. These together, with many others, such as niogene, nickeline, and siderapthite, only differ from German silver in having a larger or smaller quantity
of nickel or of zinc, or in a slight addition of tin, iron,
cobalt, bismuth, or antimony.
soldering,
may
colour properly.
The
of these imitations
of
silver rarely
2s. 6d.
may
per
lb.,
than that.
not go-
gold articles
with the No.
It must be understood that the word "carat" merely indicates a proportionate part of gold, and a "part" may mean any weight from a pound to a grain. Thus, in calculating the necessary weight of
verned by the intrinsic value of the alloys themselves. Not a few have been invented and brought into our markets at a great cost to their inventors they have
;
been used
in
articles of
new
design,
and
in
every
instance the costs of manufacture have to be added to the cost of invention and design before the vendor
metals to
thus:
make
;
18 carat gold
we may
put them
down
;
Gold, i3 grs.
silver,
3 grs.
Gold, 18
lbs.
silver,
lbs.
or,
can sell them at a profit. If he sells these imitation goods honestly, describing them as such, or as electroplated articles, we can find no fault with him, even when he charges a price nearly approaching to the
value of such articles
Well
dried,
powdered borax
is
when made
of sterling silver
3 82
but as there are unprincipled vendors to be found in every town, it will be well to know how to test the
quality of such goods.
men
at
about
six shillings
Testing
Silver
Wares.
Crush
bichromate of potash to a fine with two ounces of water and six ounces of nitric acid. Rub a clean spot in some obscure part of the article,
the
more common
qualities.
Although
his
have given I do
make
own
solders, ex-
glass
note the
effect, if
it
turns
a lively blood red, the surface of the article is of pure silver, but the hue of the drop will be less
if
and this commonest silver. Now make a deep scratch or file mark in the same spot, and again apply the mixture if it then turns brown we may suspect the article to be
the silver
is
alloyed,
marked
in
the
when he cannot get the desired quality elsewhere. Craftsmen and amateurs who wish to make their own solders will find the Injector Furnaces and Crucibles, sold by Mr. Fletcher, Museum Street, Watrington, very handy for the purpose of melting the metals when a supply of gas is at hand. Mr. Fletcher also makes an apparatus for making gas
from petroleum for use with his furnace. The price of an injector furnace, capable of melting two pounds of metal is 38s., this includes blower and tubing complete a pair of tongs and a pair of crucibles will cost about 2s. extra. A furnace of the same size, fitted with a petroleum or benzoline gas generator complete, will cost 75s. Asa blower will be necessary in the larger operations about to be described, I may mention here that the same blower will serve both the Messrs. J. J. blow-pipe and the Injector Furnace. Griffin and Sons, 22, Garrick Street, Covent Garden, W.C., also make and sell many various appliances in the form of furnaces and blowers to be used in melting metals with a gas flame, and they also advertise an oil furnace for melting metals, such as iron, brass, copper, silver, etc. This furnace is sold in two sizes, the smaller at 21s., and the larger at 31s. 6d.
;
made
of
German
;
silver electro-plated.
Wipe
off the
of nitric
froth,
this
our
on the test spot we may Mr. Gee says that the colour will vary with all other metals and their alloys. Having determined as near as possible the quality
;
we
shall
be
in
a better
:
Silver Solders.
Name
n ll
1 1
No.
,
-,_ **,_
oz.
Braaa.
Zinc.
Tin.
^Compo.
dwt.
gr.
Hardest
Silver
Ki*.
5
...
...
Solder... J
2 3 5
6
we must
to
15
viz.,
to put
Hard
Easy
hard
6 16
...
10
9 8
... ... ...
4 Best
...1
..0
4
5
Medium
Easy
1
1
0...0
..0
18
2 2
6 12
4
9
Common.. .1 SEnameU- K
7
..0
9 15
"
ing
9 Ditto 10 Filigree
11
1
...
0...0 10
...
.0
16
0...0
12
...
3
2
12
and and composition, after the other ingredients have melted. The composition above referred to consists of two parts of copper and one part of zinc, melted together and then granulated. When No. 10 solder has to be prepared, we may mix the ingredients together in the crucible, melt them, well stir them with an iron rod, and
the most infusible metals
into the crucible,
tin, zinc,
0...0 10
...
10
2 2 10
h
)
making hard
first
solders.
silver,
...
we
the
melt the
"compo"and
Common Common
common
...1
0...0 12
...
3
3
...
U
)
12
Easy 16Ver ?
li
J
loz.
loz.
Some persons affect to favour a special solder for German silver and the other imitations of silver, in which some of the imitation alloy is mixed with zinc or tin to increase its fusibility (such as German silver,
5
parts
zinc,
4 parts)
But in making such a solder as No. 16 the arsenic must be withheld until the last, then flung in, stirred briskly, and when melted poured at once. Solders in which silver, copper, and brass only enter may be mixed and melted together. Solders should only be melted twice once to granulate and mix the ingredients, and once to melt and pour into the ingot; subsequent melting will destroy the more fusible or volatile parts, and render the rest drossy, hard, and
tin.
brittle.
work.
soft
Very soft white metal is soldered with tinman's solder, and this same solder is used in soldering
"
The following extract on soldering is taken from " The mode of The Silversmith's Handbook "
:
3&3
as follows
file
it
Take the
it
and
roll it
out thin, or
smoothly filed off with a fine file, then rubbed smooth with a hone or a piece of oil-stone, and then smoothly
polished
Prepare a
the better
flat
state
little bits
done very fine and if reduced to a it should be tolerably thin, and cut into or pallions, which may be easily performed
if
first
length-
pipkin or other stone or eathenware vessel capable of holding water at boiling point. Prepare also the following mixture in another pipkin Saltpetre, 7 ozs.
:
When
it
this is done,
common
the
fire
salt,
3^ ozs.
alum,
3.3
ozs
pound them
fine,
together by
means it upon
over
stir
when
come close together, and will not be liable to be moved during the process wet the joinings with a solution of borax and water mixed into a thick paste,
;
and
for the
applying
it
upon the parts to be united, and having placed the article upon some suitable
object (a fire-brick, for instance) take your blowing
up again when it again boils it is ready work which must have been previously prepared in the following manner Place the soldered gold article over the fire on an iron or on a copper shovel, and heat the article until it is black, then
:
plunge
it
It
through a gas-jet (such as shown in Fig. 12) a keen flame upon the solder in order to melt it, and this will render the unification of
it
should be attached to a platinum wire before heating, or to an iron wire if platinum cannot be obtained
this will enable the operator to
Gee
that
well in
Now make
it
my
readers.
find
and
swill
on the
therefore
free
first direct
a sweeping broad flame from the blow-pipe on and around the joint until the borax has dried, swelled up, and subsided, this it will do in a few moments I then put on the solder, and again warm up the joint by directing the flame under and around
;
It should now be from blackness, and must then be allowed to dry, then plunged in the colouring mixture, moving it about It must then be therein for four or five minutes. swilled in clean boiling water, again plunged in the colouring mixture for one or two minutes, and again swilled in the hot water. Pour about a wine-glass of
it.
When
the joint
is
hot,
when
it
again boils,
sweep the solder with the reducing flame of the blowpipe, and sweep it into the joint just as it fuses, flushes, and trembles with the heat. The whole process only takes up the time of a few minutes to each joint. But though thus minutely described, I do not expect a beginner to succeed at first, for only a practised eye can detect the right heat, and a skilful hand properly direct the blast. Amateurs should only use the most
fusible solders, avoiding arsenic solders altogether (as
shake the
colour
article in
it
it
will
moment
if
or two,
and
when,
the right quality of gold, the surface of the article the soldered joint will bear the tint of fine gold.
in weak ale, well rinsed boxwood sawdust.
and
The
in hot
and dried
being injurious to health), and when called upon to solder plated articles it will be safest to use soft solder, as in soldering tinman's goods.
If the
will
me
Real silver articles must be similarly treated after being soldered they should be annealed on a copper shovel to a dull red heat, then plunged into an acid mixture of one part sulphuric acid to forty parts of
;
to specify each article, for the treatment will be similar in each case, bearing in
water
made
boiling hot
in
mind
made
articles are to
be boiled
in this,
into a paste with the flux are used in where pallions would be troublesome.
water, and the operation repeated until the articles are white
;
We
been soldered. Gold articles above 14 carat quality which have been united with coloured solder must have the surplus solder (put on by the amateur) carefully and
wood sawdust and polished with plate powder. Imitation, and also very common, silver articles must be electro-plated after they are soldered. The method of doing this was explained in " Electro Plating at Home," in Vol. I. of this Magazine.
384
HINTS ON CANOE-BUILDING.
HINTS ON CANOE-BUILDING.
By A
TOUNG AMATEUR.
have just finished a canoe somewhat different from the one described by the
I
Made
Easy,"
would
will
like to
I think amateurs will have no comprehending them. Both Fisherman and H. S. (Dover) will find in them just what they want the former, in the Canadian flat-bottomed bateau the latter, in the canvas canoe on the model of a Canadian birch bark. I will now explain how a canoe can be made un-
hope
sinkable, with,
if
Work.
My
paper
may
be,
and doubtless
is,
very imperfect,
shall in
but as the practical hints contained in it are likely to be of use to some, I send it, hoping they and you will
The
is
to
make allowance
In building
sinkable,
in
for
any shortcomings.
canoe,
I
my
wished
to
built round.
fixed
in
be a temporary
and
which the sails where the canoeist sits but before I describe how this is to be managed, I will make some remarks on Mr. Kennedy's papers in Parts IV. and V. of this Maga;
zine.
The
first
thing
is
that, in
manner, so that when the canoe is sufficiently stiff they can be removed, and ribs put in their places as required. Now, instead of making the two end bulkheads temporary, we make them permanent by screwing the boards to them, and securing them to the keel, by knees or otherwise. We not only attain the
desired end, but also simplify the building, for
the deck
is
which is cut in the keel, he describes it as having merely a T form all along, whereas it is necessary to
bevel the shoulder of the rabbet in order to obtain a
tight
fit,
when
Fig.
1,
more especially towards the bow and stern. which shows the angle that the boards slope at
will
in the
half
bevelled,
I
showing
as
left
in the
form.
think
is
worth
the little trouble that it takes to do, as the proper angle to bevel at can be found at the three places
screwed down on the curved top of the bulkhead, it completely shuts off the two end parts of the canoe from the middle part, and makes an airtight compartment of them. It will be better still if another bulkhead be placed at each end, midway between the one already spoken of and the bow and stern. So now, as a glance at Fig. 2 will show us, there are four air-tight compartments. Care should, however, be taken to prove that these compartments
are water-tight before the deck
to line the tops of the
is screwed on, and also bulkheads with a mixture of
fixed, and with these as a guide easy to finish the bevelling all along the keel. The second thing which I will remark on is what
he
is
which
In
it is
the most troublesome part of the building. Part V. he says, " that from the shape of a canoe
from end to end." Now, in building my did not find this to be the case. I determined to build the canoe with boards running from end to end, because it would be a stronger method, and also
to reach,
canoe
save a
and time in cutting and jointing have done so, and have not found any impossibility in it, though I must acknowledge that
lot
of trouble
I
some
This will insure a water-tight joint when the deck is screwed down on it. This mixture ought also to be used in filling all seams and leaks, and if used in a conspicuous place, it should be coloured with a suitable pigment, to match the colour of the wood. The use of air-tight compartments is that, if by any means the canoe becomes submerged or upset, the water could only get into the middle part of the canoe, and the remaining part, comprising the air-tight compartments, would give so much buoyancy that the canoe would be rendered unsinkable, and thus, almost without trouble, we have turned the canoe into a sort
of putty.
from not giving them a proper allowance for the sheer or rise of the canoe from amidships to the ends. There will, of course, be
Waterproof air-bags made to fit the canoe are sometimes used, and they possess some advantages, being easily inflated or collapsed but I
of life-boat.
;
some waste
in cutting the
is
fit,
costing
the advantages of the continuous method of building. For a description of this and all other matters concerning boat-building, 1 would recommend the amateur
to get Mr.
and
if
a paddle, jointed in
felt
Adrian Neison's book, "Practical BoatBuilding for Amateurs." The articles on planking
in
respect
certainly
counter-
HINTS ON CANOE-BUILDING.
balance
the
385
give,
Fig. 2,
will
caught out
canoes.
make some remarks on the steering of Mr. Kennedy's plan is an excellent one,
fitted,
from land. It must be understood, however, that these remarks only apply to a canoe when she is decked with a good wooden deck. It ought not to be
less than \ inch in
and
also being
handy
to use.
Of
course,
the feet,
is
thickness
when planed
if
wood
but as
it
is
rather difficult to
fit
FIG.
I.
RIGHT
it
will require to
be
backed with canvas and marine glue. As regards the kind, mahogany would be the most suitable wood, but as it is rather costly, pine stained to imitate it would do. The main thing is to have it sufficiently strong, because it acts as a brace, binding the canoe firmly
yoke properly, I think most amateurs be content with the one described by Mr. Kennedy ; but if any amateur wishes to fit one to his
foot-steering
will
canoe
it
is
put on
will give
number.
The
sail
FIG. 2.
PLAN
together
greatly on it. Again, it is obvious that it would not be worth the trouble of fitting air-tight compartments if they were only to be covered by such a slight proThough this tection as a canvas deck would afford. latter kind might be light and suitable for a river, something more substantial would be needful for the sea. Before I go on to detail the sail plan shown in
'
mainsail is worked by hooking on the in the mast (placed just above the ring boom to the mast socket). The yard is then hauled into position by the cord which passes through the blind-pulley in the mast, then down and through a pulley-block on
in Fig.
2.
The
deck just behind the mast, and from thence into hand, to be made fast to one of the cleats when the sail is There is only one line of reef-points shown, but set.
3 86
required.
The
points are
part of
it.
The
breast-flap, for
spaced 12 inches apart, and a piece of strong broad tape is sewn across the sail to stay it for their insertion. This should be done on both sides. In the mizensail, the cord which is shown passing across the sail is a double one, a part passing up each side of the sail through small rings spaced about every 12 inches. The two cords are united just where they
enter the blind-pulley, from whence the cord passes
into
It only remains for me to state that I be happy to give any information in my power to the readers of Amateur Work, through the medium of " Amateurs in Council."
hand
this
in the
same manner
is,
does.
The
use of this
that
and
it
up to
lifted
and
all
can be
if
necessary or convenient.
fixture,
The
EARLY
all
boom
in this
case
is
by a piece
in furling.
boom
come up
to the
is
mast
used,
so that the boom can be detached from the mast and brought into the canoeist's lap to be reefed or to be stowed below.
enhanced in appearance by being carved, and this method of ornamentation is deserving of every attention from the fretcutter, as well as from the wood-carver. There are, no doubt, many amateurs who are adepts at fret-cutting, and are yet unable to use, with effect, the wood-carver's tools and it is to these especially,
;
to
size
where
it,
that
occasion requires
work designs.
I
ments, there
masts pass through the air-tight compartwill require to be made water-tight mastboxes, which will come up flush with the deck, and
over which the mast sockets
will
know
there are
many who
few veins, or
design
;
a foliage
would be less trouble to make them so, and the masts will be firmer in them. The object of these is to prevent any water getting into the a'r-tight compartments, which is the most important thing to guard against. If both of these are put in first, the mast can be planed to fit them accurately, so that no water can get into the mast-box itself, and this will make it additionally secure. The socket would, of course, be made of brass, and j inch wood for the boxes, which should taper from the deck to the keel. The mast would be square up to the top of the socket, and from this rounded off in the usual way. I made mine iA inch
be placed.
I
but this
is
it
will
the work
method.
In some fret-work designs, especially in the case of
intricate scroll-work,
do not recommend the introit be simply a few inshow the continuation of the scrolls but
I
;
adds to the
carver
work.
who
a loss, and
ting
his
designs fret-cut
indeed,
fret-cutting
and
and
The
is
last thing to
call the
reader's attention
It will
least,
wood-carving should be studied together, as they are so dependent on each other. With few exceptions such as panels and similar work the wood-carver has generally to carve designs that have first passed through the hands of the fret-cutter. The best design
for fret-work,
satisfactorily;
and as on
it
depends
intended to be carved,
is
foliage conven-
tionally treated,
and
be made and fitted carefully. I mine permanently at one end of the well, and have a sliding board at the other end, so as to come up close to the body. This board will have side-pieces, to catch the macintosh cover and hold it down firmly but in case of an upset, it would be easily freed by pressure from underneath. If the well is very long, a board should be fitted under the fore
it
should
intend to
fix
an easy design
The
idea is a simple flowing arrangement of ivy leaves, both the arrangement and treatment of the leaves beI have chosen the ivying of a conventional nature. as being
leaf,
more
readily carved
387
is
than a more complicated pattern would allow. In the ivy-leaf always looks well when carved,
either naturally or conventionally.
I
shown
of a
in Fig. 28.
In Fig. 29
seen a sketch of a
similar nature,
and
have simply
it
Gothic design. Both these designs could be adapted to other uses, or instead of corner brackets
FIG. 28.
PART
OF SHELF
FIG. 27.
OF BRACKET IN
FIG. 31.
SECTION
OF
ynrryTir
FRONT
SIDE.
SECTION
as a pattern to be faithfully followed in every detail more of a suggestion, to be altered and
Owing
to
it is, in reality,
improved upon by the amateur himself, than a finished design to be slavishly copied. The shelf is ornamented by a simple carved bead-moulding only, as
have drawn these designs on a reduced scale, and have only shown a portion of the bracket, but they can easily be enlarged to any extent. With respect to the best kind of wood
disposal
I
my
3 88
to
be used,
and stave-oak
the work is to be left plain or polished ; but if it is intended to be gilded, then nearly any description of
and may any specimens of Gothic work that he may see, and nearly every church contains more or less elaborate examples of
the treatment of this description of work, obtain
many
hints
by
carefully noting
wood
will do.
Gothic wood-carving.
next sketch, Fig. 30, is a design for a small oval frame in the Elizabethan or strap style. This design is also reduced in size and only half of it shown,
After deciding on the kind of wood to be used, the next thing will be to settle the thickness, and unless it
is
The
I inch
only,
be thick enough.
high.
am
concluding, of
Walnut-
medium
after
size
The wood,
being
all
wood wood
or
to
oak of a close and even grain will be the best use for this frame, and it should be at least
fitted,
should be
fret-cut,
and
light and J inch thick, to allow of bold effects of shade being obtained in the carving. The outline
sand-paper nor
files
being
used
the
for this
when
this
purpose.
After this has been done, glue
down
the oval centre being also cut out, carefully regulate the outlines by means of the tools and a wood file, and especial care should be given to obtain a perfect oval
centre. Mark off the rebate, which should come to within about { inch of the front of the frame, and extend back about f inch, as in the section shown in Fig. 31. Cutting out the rebate in the solid wood, as
which
is
be easily taken up
is
when
the carving
finished.
The design
then
roughed or blocked in and the shape of the leaves shown, and when this has been done the design is again gone over and finished off in every detail, the
veining of the leaves being
left
above described,
is
to the last.
The
carved
of all
bracket
is now ready for taking up, and to do this without running the risk of breakage, a knife with a thin blade should be inserted between the deal and
simply made, by
to the
first
and then
a very
finishing off
the bracket, and the latter can be carefully detached. The glue should then be taken off the back by holding it above the flame of a gas-burner or a candle,
or a " firmer." The best way of holdwhen cutting out the rebate, is to glue wood, not it face downwards on a piece of deal or soft
flat tool
up the glue in blisters, which can then be scraped off. In order to avoid the appearance of the thick edges of the stem and leaves, the back of the bracket requires
to be chamfered or rounded off to a feather edge,
brown paper.
down
the
and
frame again, and mark out the principal lines of the design on the face of the frame. Then cut in roughly with a hollow tool the principal features of the design,
taking particular care to set in the inside moulding correctly, and afterwards proceed to finish off in the
usual manner, beginning at the top of the frame
when
this
it
nently put the bracket together. If an ordinary wallbracket is desired, care must be taken, before carving the front pieces, to draw a line down the centre, as
and
be carved on both sides, and the carving must be equally balanced. It will be found rather awkward to hold this piece of wood firmly after
this piece requires to
working down, carefully balancing each side, and seeing that the height of one side is the same as that of the other. This design is intended to represent the
one side has been carved, but a soon overcome the difficulty.
little
ingenuity will
In the case of Fig. 29, a different method of treatto be followed, as the Gothic style consists essentially of " rounds and hollows," and it is difficult
ment has
work so freely introduced into the Elizabethan and looks very effective when boldly carved. is everywhere left perfectly smooth from surface The the tools, and the edges of the frame are chamfered from the back. The amateur will find far more diffistrap
style,
to describe exactly
how
this
is
done.
The
centre of
culty in carving this design effectively than he has hitherto found in the conventional foliage examples
each leaf
in the trefoil is formed like a ball and surrounded by a hollow. A single vein, which in Gothic work is almost invariably cut with the parting tool, is
previously given.
I
will give
in foliage
work, and
leaf.
The stems
require
rustic-like appear-
be encountered in Italian foliage, natural and grotesque animal forms, and the human figure this last being the most diffithen refer briefly to the
difficulties to
The amateur
will
gain
much
useful
knowledge
in
cult of all. Figs. 32 and 33 are suggestions for a cover of a book or blotting-case, and represents a conventional
HOW TO
gram
389
arrangement of ivy-leaves surrounded by a carved moulding, and with a shield in the centre for monoor crest. It is intended to be carved in either boxwood, lime-tree wood, or fine-grained American
when
left
walnut-wood.
it
;
will
I think my readers will be better able to enter into these branches of the art
be necessary that the corners are perfectly square by this I mean, that the angles are right angles, and the
object of this
is
in
be properly bound.
my
next
article.
(To
be continued.)
and about \ inch thick for the reverse side. These carved covers are, in binding, inserted into a sort of panel, and books
be specially made.
or blotting-pads, suitable for carved sides, require to The best plan is to send the sides
f inch
=4-=
HOW
when carved to a practical bookbinder, or to any of the well known fancy warehouses. Messrs. Parkins
and Gotto, of Oxford Street, I know, execute this kind of work at a reasonable price, and in an artistic manner.
AVING
seen amongst the "Information Sought" an inquiry from a reader with regard to a plan of a Vivarium, and believing that the details of construction of
The
reverse side does not require to be so elaborately carved as the front, as it is not much seen, and I prefer either to leave
it
am
These
with a parting tool principally, every part of the pattern being V-shaped. Instructions for incised work will be given later on. This design, like the others, can easily
induced to send particulars of one which I have constructed, which will, I think, exactly suit the querist's requirements, and perhaps also be acceptable to many
other amateurs.
I
be enlarged to suit any sized book. The general working and treatment of this pattern will be in every
respect similar to that described by me in the February number of Amateur Work, and the groundwork can
either
is
not
my
own,
but
be punched or
I
left
call attention to the veining of the leaves. Of course, in natural ivy-leaves there are five principal veins with innumerable smaller veins branching out from them, but in carving it is
the amateur.
would, however,
The Butterfly Vivarium, Home," and from which I have drawn liberally for the description and plan, as I believe the publication is now out of print. If, however, this book
could be referred to, much valuable information would be gained as to the successful management and keeping of this
little
Insect
Home.
and
additions, I
sufficient to
show the
of these
and
for
With some
have
strictly
slight modifications
variety
some
may be
shown
raised
as
in the
The
tendrils
and, as the structure is composed referred to (p. 14) mainly of zinc, its construction is well within the scope
of
Amateur Work,
articles
is
and needs no explanation. When finished, the front cover will look best if the bands round the outside of the carved work and the shield are polished, and the remainder of the work left dull, a little boiled linseed-oil being applied and well brushed in with
reverse cover should be brightly polished, the incised lines alone being left dull to
;
numbers of this journal. I shall not, therefore, dwell upon matters which have already been fully dealt with, but request those who may be desirous of making this vivarium to read well and inwardly digest Mr.
Edwinson's valuable
articles
skilful
a hard brush.
The
little
prevent this surface being scratched or defaced in any way, small projecting buttons or pateras are often
inserted at each corner, but they should not project
is
more than -^
inch, just
sufficient,
in
fact,
to
pre-
and being intended for rearing aquatic as well as land insects, a portion of the interior is set apart for a small reservoir
somewhat
vent the surface of the side coming in contact with the table. These pateras can be turned out of ebony and attached to the cover. If preferred, the incised lines
in the
form of a
little
bay.
The
little
reservoir
19
HOW TO
It is is
it
of the necessary
will
not be
roof
be the same, except that the glass portion need made to open, as another door would scarcely
which
angles
also
is
formed of
zinc
and up the
its
front
be necessary.
is
The
little
and
is
are drawn
columns.
The
back and
front of glass.
of
The semiis
So much
which
taken, almost
verbatim, from
Mr.
Humphreys'
interesting book.
Now
let
more
in detail,
astoleaveample
space
land
the
for
uprights or co|\_
the
j\
lumns,
includ-
arrange-
ments, vhich, in
gallery, are
two
back
of angle zinc, a
section of
is 3.
which
shown
in Fig.
The bottom
of
and
be of
the
the
bars
the
rium
zinc
is to
up
to
height
of
joint just
above
of angle
zinc
which
in Fig.
is
i.
shown
And
the
or
the
is
gal-
whole upper
cover
of
part
All
the
of
vivarium
inlift
work
section
Fig.
4.
are
of
tended
off,
to
for cleaning
etc.
shown
1
in
purposes,
have
these
"
The upper
tion
will
por-
marked
as " No.
1
be
fit
made
tightly
to to
the
lower
here-
groove, extend-
Commencing
with the lower
portion
of
the
case, proceed to
may
which
will
easy access to
and
entirely
occupying the rest of the space above the solid zinc, which will reach up to the joint, as before stated. The lower part of the glass door will, therefore, be on a level with the surface of the land arrangements, and
will
from which the roof springs. Fig. side, showing the door in position
is
a view of the
mention here is a piece of plate-glass a quarter of an inch thick. We shall require a length each of Nos.i and 2, of 27 inches, and two short pieces of No. i, of 7| inches. The ends of these pieces should be mitred, as shown in Fig. 1, and then soldered together. (I cut mine with an old tenon saw in a mitre box, and found that very little filing was required to make a perfect joint.) In arranging the bars for mitring, be careful to keep the jointed part of the No. 2 zinc (see A, Fig. 12) underneath, so as to allow the upper portion
HOW TO
of the case
to
fit
39i
as closely as possible.
is
once be fitted a sheet of stout zinc cut to the exact inside measurement, the edges being soldered to the angles all round, in order to
in this
at
and
may
be noticed upon inspection that the corner of is slightly rounded this will therefore form a small gutter for the solder to run in, and allows There of a very strong but neat joint being made. will then be a margin of ii- inches, J inches of which
the angle zinc
;
make
No.
I,
is
intended to be bent
down at
of the back and front frames with these two similar lengths of No. 2 being joined to the top corners will
and the corners soldered together. This operation may be facilitated if the marks are inas
shown
in Fig. 1,
nail,
or other
FIG.
3,
CORFIG.
5.
NER UPRIGHT
SECTION
(No.
si
I""""'
i'
oj
i
i
^
!
FIG.
6. FRAME TO RECEIVE
ZI.NC
BOTTOM.
FIG. 7.
ZINC CUT
TO FORM BOTTOM.
FIG. 12.
FORMATION
OF ZINC
CORNER BAR.
then complete this part of the framework, the portions which form the ledge on which the upper case rests being also mitred and soldered underneath. Fig. 5 is
intended to represent this rectangular frame, with the back piece of zinc in position. Two sheets of zinc
FIG. 8.
DRAIN
PIPE.
instrument, the small square at each corner being cut away before bending. See Fig. 7, which shows the
cut ready for turning down. a frame of wood which forms the base on which the zinc bottom rests, and, indeed, the bending It is 2 process may be performed upon this frame.
sheet
marked and
is
Fig. 6
may now be
front
till
cut
and soldered
same manner
a later stage.
of this lower portion
is
The bottom
a sheet of zinc
30 inches by 19 inches, and to this the framework just completed must be soldered all round, on the outside.
4J inches by 17-J- inches, and is composed of strips of 2 J inch wood 1 inch in thickness the ends may be either mortised, or halved, together, and. the two middle supports inserted in a similar manner. It will
feet
;
will
be described hereafter, as to
392
drainage,
etc.,
HOW TO
why
this to
framework
used in prefer-
Fig. 9
A,
ence
a solid board.
A
;
We
now come
This
is
to the division
rated zinc
c, drain-pipe
reservoir.
f f
which the upper portion of the case rests, and for purposes of strength and neatness it should be previously folded down at the top to the extent of half an inch. It has been already mentioned that the central part of this should not extend beyond half the depth of the vivarium. The simplest way of determining the length of zinc necessary for this partition will be to cut a piece of thick cardboard to the size and shape required to fit the bottom of the intended bay, and to
be necessary to
d, stop-cock E E, cinders mould H, holes in floor. It cut away the base-board to fit
;
is
joined to the
The
and
glass
is
bend the
zinc to fit the arc of this card template. Do not destroy the card, as it will serve for a guide when fixing the division to the bottom. Assuming that you
Equal parts of red lead, white lead, mixed with boiled oil into a paste of the consistency of putty. This is a well-known cement for purposes of this kind, and as it dries rather quickly, should only be mixed as required for use. The glass should be well bedded in with the mixture, and pressed
following cement
litharge
It will
then
be advisable
this semicircular boundary to the proper height and length, solder one of the ends to the front angle of one of the uprights. Now insert the glass
may
in.
is
poured
The bed
(which should be about a quarter of an inch less than the full inside width measurement, so as to allow a little play, in order that you may be able to get at the
other end), and finish soldering to the bottom and the other upright. The glass may be left out until the soldering of the division is completed, if desirable, and
in one respect it would be an advantage, as it might be cut to the full width, but if this course is adopted the top bar of the frame will have to be removed to
depth of \ inch, and the back entirely covered with it. Small portions of broken flower-pots may then be laid on to the back, and roughly coated with cement
cement run be found to be very effective, the whitish cement helping to light up the water of the little bay, which should be turned away from the window of the room in which the vivarium is
to imitate caves
and rockwork,
This
letting the
and hang
in
drops.
will
enable the glass to be inserted in its place. The soldered to the bottom on both sides; that is, in each compartment. A piece of f inch zinc tubing should also be fixed horizontally
division should be
kept.
If
it
is
the pipes
laying the
I
cement, and
is
what
had
in
between the top of this division and the back, just below the centre of the ledge, to give greater strength, and this, with the exception of the drain pipe, which
I will
now
work
to
view when dealing with the base-board. In the case which I have constructed I have inserted a pipe in the centre of the lake (soldering it round on each side of the bottom), built round it a rockery of small flower-pots coated with cement, and connected this rockery to the back of the tank, thus forming a sort of archway. I had intended to work this fountain from
a glass tank concealed in the gallery at the roof, using the strengthening tube I have referred to as an overflow-pipe, and connecting it from the outside with the
I have not, however, completed this arrangement, and cannot, therefore, say if it would answer. It would certainly interfere with the free
both as regards utility and cleanliness. Underneath the case, from the middle to the back edge, I have fastened a bent piece of zinc about an inch in width and half an inch in depth, something like an ordinary
drain-pipe.
U roof drain-pipe, and to the centre of this I have connected a short piece of pipe and a small brass stop-cock. In the bottom of the case over this drainpipe I have pierced a row of inch holes, and over
these holes placed an arched strip of perforated zinc. The floor of the land portion is covered with Portland
however,
suggest the
itself, if
means
any one should think a fountain indispensable. The framework of the upper portion of the case is
of application within the dwelling
;
cement, tapering downwards from the sides to the centre, and on this cement a stratum of about 3 inches of cinders and broken crocks is laid. Fig. 8 represents the drain-pipe, one end of which is closed with a semicircular piece of zinc, the other end being
same manner as that of the lower portion is somewhat complex, it will be better to proceed by steps, and complete the large rectangular portion before commencing the roof.
built in the
but as this
As this upper portion is intended to fit closely into the lower portion, proceed to cut the bottom bars
HOW TO
accordingly from No.
I
393
zinc.
columns should be 14 ins., also cut from No. 1. ^Having mitred the four columns and bottom pieces, cut four pieces of No. 2 to correspond with the bottom bars and it will be as well in this case to take the sides first, as the inner columns and perforated zinc can be added before joining the front and back bars. These inner columns are of No. 2, and are as long as the inside measurement of the frame, the front part of each end being filed away down to the tongue (if that is a
correct term), so that the columns
iron.
be
at all
difficult
and
make
the roof at
all
ship-shape.
But a
little
patience,
and the employment of the simple appliances I am about to describe will enable us to surmount the
difficulty. Cut six pieces of stout zinc (the stouter the better) each 6J inches long, and an inch or 1 5 inch wide. Solder two pieces outside each of the front
may come
flush
glance at Fig. 2
have not made myself sufficiently explicit the joint outside will be neatly soldered, and also each side of the tongue to the inside of the framework. Both sides of the case, so far, are alike, and the four pieces of perforated zinc may be fitted a few touches of solder here and there will suffice to keep them in place. I ought to have mentioned that these inner columns should be fixed at their respective corners, so that from corner to column the outer measurement will be 3J inches each, thus
;
inches from
of the
Be
all
same length. You will then have the gallery mounted on what I may call six legs, each 6 inches long. Now bend each of the legs carefully outwards from
the soldered joints until the ends of the opposite pairs
breadth of the upper portion of the case. Let the ends rest right in the corners of the angle bars (I do
not
leaving a central space of about 9 inches, for in one case a window, and in the other a door. The construction
mean
and
fitting
plained.
of the door will be subsequently exProceed now to attach the back and front
bars to the sides, and at about five inches from the top corners of the upper front and back bars solder
two strengthening tubes. (The black dots in Fig. 1 indicate the positions of the tubes, though, of course, they are inside the framework.) These tubes may be
longer than the distance the inside ledges are apart, the ledges resting in a small nick filed across the ends of each tube. In addition to imparting
trifle
showing the position of these strips, numbered 1 to 6 and if you have been exact in your measurements, the roof will be in its proper position and ready to receive the four corner bars which form its ultimate means of support. These are also indicated in the plan as well as the three tubes before
referred to.
The
shown
in Fig. 12,
convenient rods on which to hang small flower-pots and baskets for trailing plants.
You
little
care
exercised,
and the
joint
The
This
is
shown
It will
be
18J inches long, 7J inches broad, and i\ inches high. The four small columns and the lower bars of the frame are of No. 1 ; the remaining bars are of No. 2.
exact length
to the
is
cut, as
Not much
ing
this, if
difficulty will
be experienced
to
in construct-
allow a
made
them.
The
with perforated zinc, and across the centre of the lower ledges a piece of tube is attached, as before
1).
Underneath
all
four lower
each other, and the extremities of what I have previously called the tongues of the bars, should be flush with the lower corners of the little gallery and the inside angles formed by the frame of the upper
portion of the case respectively (see Fig.
lessen the difficulty which
11).
To
may
have
to
be soldered
to
form a bed
for the
this gallery
and soldered
edge
cut and fitted as a and weight of the roof making it plainly apparent that good joints are needed at these
triangular
wood should be
of the frame.
Whilst soldering,
keep
the
fringe
corners.
then,
394
the
six
strips
BOW TO
of zinc,
traces
all
and remove
crest-work
the
left
of their positions.
The
inner column.
It
is
unnecessary to
manner
to that
ment used
tion,
already
described.
If
may be employed,
it
and
gives
a neater
mental spires
may be
FIG. II.
The door
This
is
in
demands
bevelled
off.
;
round the perforated up with putty, and smoothly The top square of glass need not
on the top ledges,
its
be fixed
it
re-
mitred at the corners, and soldered together. I have the door on the right hand side from the front.
Fig. 2
position.
moval being found very convenient at times, especially when cleaning the slanting panes of glass.
The
materials for
con-
may be
column,
to
fit
and
two
small
may
perhaps
mention,
well-known firm,
This arrange-
my
case,
removed,
be fixed instead.
this
DRAINAGE SYSTEM
IN SECTION.
and
I
in
whatever quantities
preferred, small
desired.
brass hinges
may
in
Plenty of solder
surplus being
may
The
be used
operation,
the
trimmed
off with
file
The painting maybe according to taste; almost any colour will look well. Mine is French grey picked out with gold, but bronze green and black are the colours mostly used for fern-cases and aquaria. The
inside should be painted with a light colour.
I
ex-
perienced
difficulty in
great
get-
being screwed or
soldered
to
adhere
to
properly
the
the zincwork,
close
been glad
The
hole
known
I
time
of a wrinkle which
fancy
have
Council columns,
to the effect that
zinc, before paint-
tion
which works
the hole
filed
ing,
should
be
of course
leaving
cient
a suffidepth for
a series of minute
parallel ridges.
1SI0TES
Fig. 13
ON NOVELTIES.
possible errors
395
is a rough perspective view of the stand. be found that the vivarium, when furnished, will need a tolerably strong support to sustain its weight, and this stand, though not very elegant, is certainly strong, and answers its purpose very well. The legs are 2 inches by ii inches, 2 feet 3 inches to Four top 2 feet 6 inches will be quite high enough.
on
my part, though
hope
have been
It will
fortunate enough to have escaped from committing to paper any serious inaccuracies which might have the
effect of
them
aright in the
before them.
rails, or
and
legs,
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
ESSRS.
R,
an
inch.
Two
side rails,
J-
of 85
and
nected by a stretcher bar also ii inches square. The legs, side rails, and stretcher bar should have their edges chamfered, and a flat piece of moulding is
nailed under each
of
have supplemented
and appliances
all
by another
of
ironmongery of
kinds'
The
and
top
i-j
is
composed of pieces
all
which
will
together) screwed
round
who
does not
drain-pipe,
its stability.
and
All
of shelf and
ornamental
axle and frame pulleys, hat and coat pegs, and hooks, nails
wooden
castors, drawer-handles,
pins.
the
same colour
as the
and
stays,
and the
ing nailed round the top close to the case will cover the edges of the zinc, form a relief to the square angles,
is
sure to be wanting at
is
some time or
in
As
the catalogue
in its
I believe,
unique of
its
kind,
amateurs
who dabble
is
In arranging the land portion of the case, it is necessary when filling in the mould to sink certain
own
repairs at
it.
;
No
and
price
home, marked on
purpose of concealing small bottles of water, in which the stalks of the plants required for the food of the insects may be plunged, in
tin or zinc tubes for the
but
it
it is
to those
who send
for
by post
suppose
it
would be supplied
order to keep them fresh but this is rather away from the vivarium construction, and, for the stocking and
;
and
I
to be given
away
successful
rearing,
wholesale to
applicants.
etc.,
I
have
to
am
I
article.
E. C, in sending me particulars High Speed Expansive Rotary Engines, manufactured by the Thames Iron Works and ShipEarle, 80,
Cannon
have now done and hope that what I have may be of service to the readers of Amateur Work, in assisting them to construct for themselves an article which is well within the powers of most amateurs, and which, when completed, will afford them gratification and delight gratification, from the fact that such a handsome building is the result of their own handiwork, and delight, possibly, in the pursuit of the interesting study of insect life, which the possession of such a "Home" enables them to follow. As an amateur, and writing for amateur workers, I have endeavoured to steer clear of technicalities
;
building
Company
written
Royal Aquarium, Westminster. These engines are expressly adapted for driving dynamo-electric machines. I do not
think that amateurs are likely to purchase engines of this
kind, as they are beyond their requirements.
sure,
I
have plea-
my
readers
who may be
for
curious about
them
to
two-horse
power to ,240 for forty-horse power. Mr. James Henry Makin, Engineer, Cupola, Gibraltar
Street, Sheffield,
wishes
I
me
machines, which
those amateurs
because
service to
and, in doing
so,
my
way
calculated to
do good
me
to use a certain
amount of
be graciously pardoned. I shall be most through the medium of "Amateurs in Council," any questions which may arise through
trust, I shall
happy
to answer,
and numbered
1, 2,
and
3.
may
39 6
and No. and
:s
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
to
I,
any depth.
sold at
I,
The
12s.
known
as
ing to
size.
is
No.
3,
given in Fig.
sold at
15s.
No.
6s. to
ij inches, increasing in sizes by J inch, and in price from 7s. per dozen, according to size. Hooking clamps
Is inch to ij inch, and if inch in length, vary in price from
5s.
6d.
to 6s.
according to
size.
Spring
diameter,
and
costs
catches for boxes, if inches long, are supplied at 3s. 6d. per
and double sliding spring catches, ij inch and 2* inches in length, at 6s. and 7s. per dozen respectively.
dozen,
provided
The
Messrs.
of carving
with
gearing,
that
and
is
so
Churchill and
Co have
also
some handy
little sets
made
by simply movit
who
some simple
carving.
A set of
in the blade, in
applewood handles,
for 5s.
drills.
Another movement of the catch will throw the machine into gear for giving great speed to small
drills.
applewood handles,
Messrs. Crosby
Court,
Lockwood and Co., 7, Stationers' Hall Ludgate Hill, send me a new volume of " Weale's
The engravings
MAKIN'S DRILLING MACHINE FOR AMATEURS, NO. 2.
indicate
will fully
Rudimentary Series," No. 237, entitled, "The Smithy and Forge," a Rudimentary Treatise, including Instructions in
Farrier's Art, with a chapter on Coach Smithing. With numerous illustrations by W. J. E. Crane. The price of the book is 2s. 6d., the size the same as that of other books
the character of
their
the
mode
working.
Amateurs
for lathe
many
at
useful
and
essential tools
and appliances
work
on Novelties."
the history
moderate
prices.
We
have heard a great deal of " Louis " Velveteen as a but it appears that it is equally ;
and then
treats
work and
duties of
and
artistic
It
decorations,
good substitute
to form
for plush.
may be used
table-covers,
or a backing for
work and
Witten, another
steeling tools.
H.
J.
of Sheffield,
cover frames for looking-glasses, plaques of painted porcelain, etc. Bookshelves and brackets for the reception of
bric-4-brac
chaiis,
on
and Ornamental
by Mr.
Ironwork,
chiefly
may be covered with it, and ottomans, sofas, etc., look well when upholstered with it. For minor
purposes, such as mounting for screens, valance boards, mantel-boards, and even for covering panels to be set in frames, forming doors, etc., it is most valuable. It may be had in a great variety of shades and colours, and, being a
chapter
on
some
useful tables,
bench-work, and an
cheap material, especially when its rich and beautiful appearance and durability are taken into account, it may be used with economy and advantage for all kinds of artistic
really
is
origifirst
believe
the
decoration.
It
may be purchased
is
material which
well
public for
velveteen
many years.
is
known, having now been before the Every yard of the genuine "Louis"
been written on
ticular subject
this
par-
and
there-
more
likely to
be useful and
after
much sought
MAKIN'S DRILLING MACHINE FOR AMATEURS, NO. 3.
many
next
and appliances,
in
I
some
month's issue of
doors,
Magazine.
Meanwhile, as
have
the
drawers, etc., for small cabinets, I may take the opportunity of saying that Messrs. Churchill and Co. have a very large variety of these goods in stock. Nickel-plated or gilt hinges, i inch wide in each flap, and ranging in length from J inch to i inches, increasing in each size
have to acknowledge the receipt of No. 3, Vol. II., of " Engineering Review," a weekly supplement to "Mechanical Engineering;" a useful work, from which
even amateurs can gather many a serviceable wrinkle. The connection of panes of glass, etc., by "a z-shaped strip of
tin or other
new
in-
vention, as
it
by i
3s.
to 4s. per
dozen accord-
many
years.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
AMATEURS
IN COUNCIL.
requirements of your readers, and congratulate you on your very exact reproduction of a most beautiful model. We are, sir, yours faithfully, "W. E. Hill & Sons."
397
French polish, without any of the rubbing down or spiriting off, and is done in a quarter the time and with a quarter the trouble. I doubt if it is a bit more expensive in the end, as it goes a great deal farther than the other. Used as a finish for the other polish it surpasses any other that I have used or seen in brilliancy ; it is also very good for leather. It is only to be obtained, to my knowledge, at 17, Devonshire Square, Kislwpsgatc, and is sold in 6d.,
Is.,
[The Editor reserves t>> himself the right ot refusir g- a reply to any question that may be frivolous or inappropriate, or devoid of general interest. Correspondents are requested to bear in mind that their queries will be answered only in the pages of the Magazine, the information sought being supplied for the benefit of its readers generally as well as for those who have a special intere^tin obtaining it. In no case can any replv be sent by nost.]
Jack Horxbr writes Any amateur can mate a good and useful screw-gauge with the aid of a turning lathe, and a screw bore and die. The stalk is screwed the whole length, and has two heads, screwed to fit it.
JOINERS.
These heads can be moved so as to shift through a very small distance, aud when the one is screwed up against the other, they are immovable. It is also handy as a cramp for keeping stiles or rails together, while drawing in, or holding small glued
jobs together. Violin- Making-. J. Tatlob, J. Feost, J. Yacghjln, and others. I have received a number of letters, none wise, but all otberwise, relative to the length of the outline of the Stradivari fiddle given in the Supplement to Part XVTI. of Amateur, "Work, which, as all the writers complain, is from \ to -fa inch less than 14 inches. One gentleman, who, from his assurance and orthography, must have had great experience of Stradivari violins, points out the fact that, as an outline of a Stradivari violin, the drawing is "perfectly useless." Another, whose question is rendered harmless by his innocence, doubts the genuineness of the fiddle from which it is taken. Let me say once and for all, that I should not be likely to have taken an outline from a copy or a spurious fiddle to present to the numerous readers of Amateur Work that Stradivari made many of his most beautiful fiddles much shorter than 14 inches and that, in choosing an outline to set before my readers, I chose the most elegant and perfect instrument I could find from among half a dozen fine Stradivans, irrespective of hard-and-fast rules of thumb by which to regulate my choice. I have laid some of the3e lucubrations before Mr. Hill, and I append the letter I have received from him in reply
Fret-Sawing Machine. Habrt. The common saws of Swiss or German manufacture are of little use for wood thicker than $ inch; for anv greater thickness up to 1 inch, the American handmade saws, Nos. 7 and S, price Is. 6d. per doz., must be used these can be procured from Churchill and Co., Finsbury, E.C. For 14 inch and thicker wood, use cabinetmaker's buhl-saws, which are 10, 12, or 14 inches long, and about inch broad, cost from 6d. to Sd. each, and may be set and sharpened until quite worn up. Most ironmongers can supply the last- mentioned article; Chest Expanding Braces. S. M. (Altrincham) and Politzer are thanked for their replies to W. O., with illustration; but as an article is in prepara;
and
2s. bottles,
The second thing is " Seeligmann's Patent Flint Paper," it is the same price as Oakey's Glass Paper, and is double as good. I send you apiece for trial. The only place that I know of where you can get it is at the
wholesale place, Miiller, TJhlich
&
Co., 37,
KingWUliam
you with as
Street,
E.C, they
is
will oblige
little as
Pianoforte Toning.
(Manchester). In the illustration, the extent of penetration of the toningtool has been somewhat exaggerated in engraving. The darts, as is stated, show direction merely; the needles do not pass through the felt as in sewing. The object is to very slightly loosen the surface of the felt where this is brought into contact with the wires,
may be made,
insert
it.
it is
how
W. (Burnley.)Tour reply to W. 0. willnot help him. He will soon have a pattern at his command. See preceding reply.
Case for Stuffed Bird,
etc.
T. H. {Saverstoch Hill). There is no difficulty in making a case for a stuffed bird. Cut the sides of the case to the required di-
in-
mensions out of
it
Plane
up nicely, and dovetail sides and top and bottom together, or merely nail them together with brads or wire nails, if you are unable to do this; but before doing so, run
inch, or a rabbet along the front edge, of Tinlf the thickness of the stuff, and as deep as the thickness of the glass, or even deeper, if you prefer it nail on the back, paper the interior and whiten it and, after putting in the specimen, drop the glass into the rabbet, and secure in place by pasting narrow strips of black paper over the edges. This is one way another way, but one which may present greater difficulty to you is, to run a narrow groove in the inner surface of the sides and bottom of the case, about, -J inch from edge, for the reception of the glass, fixing a strip of wood on top, over the glass, to make up width of top, which has been reduced, to inner edge of groove to admit of the introduction of the glass. The edges of the case surrounding the glass may be neatly rounded off by way of finish.
;
as will tend to the attainment of this object. The motion of the tool is as if the operator aimed at mak-
much
ing a felt rasp, the motion in the second direction being a minimum. The tool is held just like a writing pen. From what you say it seems probable that you have overdone it. Tou had better refelt the hammer you refer to, and be more cautious next
time.
"72, War&our
Street,
London, W.,
"Deir Sir, We have been looking over the letters you laid before us yesterday, and fail to see how anyone connected in any way
with violins can find anything to find fault with in the outline of a Stradivari you have given in Part XVII. of Ajiateur "Work, which is a faithful reproduction of one of the most graceful and consistent patterns of Stradivari. It is true it is shorter than moart: of his fiddles, but this very shortness is quite in keeping with the raignonne elegance of the entire fiddle. It is, of course, not a " Grand Strad." or a " Long Strad.," but we think it admirably adapted to the
New Nosing for Kitchen Stairs. T. H. (Haverstoclc Hill). Take oif the old nosing as far as may be required. If taken off beyond the inner surface of "riser," screw a strong cleat level with the top of each riser, to sustain the horizontal board, or "tread." Then prepare new nosing of the width required. Hound off the front edge, and fasten to the remaining portion of the original head with wooden dowel pins, and to the riser, with nails. This will make a strong, at the same time, a neat job.
Two
HS.
China Painting. 1. Under consideration. Subscriber. 3. The series meets 2. Met in paper No. 1. this to the utmost nicety. Home Madb. 1. Ordinary red and some of the iron browns chrome green ; and one or two antimony yellows. 2. An ordinary kitchener and a few crucibles and tongs, and pestle and mortar, and the requisite 3. chemicals, which are not expensive. De BrongSpon's Workshop Receipts 4 ramiques; Ure's niart TraitC des Arts Ct Dictionary Watt's Dictionary of Chemistry, under the various metallic oxides. Section 32 (d) was a short N. H. paragraph (inserted in the proof, but accidentally omitted in revising) recommending Hancock's Special Medium, which will It doubtless meet your requirements. would, I imagine, be on sale at any of the depots for his colours but certainly can be
Useful Preparations.
:
[Hackney) writes I send the names of two things which I think are very little known, and which I find very useful
in wood working; tbe first is called " Thomson's Liquid Enamel" an invaluable polish, it is used in the same way as ordinary
got at Eeeve's, Cheapside. W. G. W. (Reigate) 1. Muffles in which to fire china may be procured by tbe amateur, but they are expensive. The subject of firing will be treated of in due course. 2. If you mean oil colours, they must be reground on the slab with the muller, and remixed. Whose make do you use ? Hancock's Keramic Water Colours, however dry
they may have become after prolonged exposure on the palette, will at once soften again with plain water, to which may be added, in extreme cases, a touch of megilp.
398
China. The subject of firing will be dealt with in due course but, in answer to your inquiries, I may say here that the simple requirements of a "muffle," or kiln
;
AMATEURS IN
J. C.
COUNCIL.
Self-Acting Gas Generator.
Photography.
H. (Windsor). Messrs. Marion and Co.,22, Soho Square, Oxford Street. Mr. C. E. Elliott, 36, Jewin Street, Aldersgate Street. Mr. George Smith, Sciopticon Co., 26, Colebrooke Kow, near the Angel,
Islington.
W. M.
B. (Winterbome, Monkton).
Bate-
which to fire painted ware, are that it should be smoke-proof aDd contain two outlets, one a vent for the escape of the volatilised mediums, the other a tube through which "tests" are drawn from time to time to see how the firing is progressing. The test is the exact development of rose colour. So you see the determination of the moment when the firing is done is a practical oneThe arrangement is such that the kiln is surrounded by live fuel or flame. These kilns are expensive, except for very small articles, and the firing of them also runs into money; but as you do not give your address, or any idea cf your ordinary amount of work, I cannot say whether it would be profitable for you to do your own firiDg.
in
man's Self-Acting Gas Generator, about which you inquire, is a perfectly genuine affair, and would be most useful in many situations and for many purposes for which
it is
C. de V. A dark room is an absolute necessity for the practical working of photography. You must have somewhere to change and develope the plates, and a perusal of the various papers on photography
in the early
numbers
of the
work
will
show
how
easy it is to make an apartment dark, or suitable for the purpose. have seen a W.O. turned to good account by more than one clever worker. But if you mean, is a dark tent a necessity P then we answer, No. If you really are unacquainted with photography, and we gather such from your note,
We
we
at once.
Fret Machine.
J. R. (L'anrwst) writes To thnse of my fellow amateurs who want a simple and
:
you are going to try too much all Buy a C. de V. camera and lens, and become accustomed to the manipulafear
tions required.
them
would recommend make one from the design and plan given by Mr. Laker in Part XlV.of Amatecr
to
"Work.
have
made one which I would not like to part with, and which is admired by all who have seen
it.
Buy next Friday's issue of the British Journal of Photography and the Photographic News, 3d. each, and spend Is. on each of the almanacks published by tbe above papers. See also answer to J. C. Hopkins. To do what you require would cost about 20, all told.
not possible to obtain gas. As far as I understand it, it is somewhat similar to the, contrivances used to light up travelling shows and stalls in markets where no other system of lighting can be brought into operation. The apparatus, which is made, of copper, zinc, or other metal, is entirely self-acting, and very simple. There is areservoir, which is provided with the apparatus, into which patent gasoline is put, and this is converted by tbe generator into pure gas of a high illuminating power. Ordinary gas-fittings are used with the apparatus, which is made in different sizes to supply from one to one hundred lights. The cost of the generator ranges from 1 5s. for a single light, to 9 5s. for twenty lights. For a single light the size of the generator is 36 in. by 6 in. by 1$ in., and this
gradually increases until it reaches 48 in. by 48 in. by 3 in. for twenty lights. To meet the requirements of those who wish to test the efficacy of the system, a sample set is supplied for 1 6s., all complete and ready
for fixing, comprising a one-light generator,
In the main I followed out the instructions given by the author, but there were some little matters of detail which 1 consider to he an improvement. I used very dry native oak instead of ash. In the bearings of the spindles, in order to reduce the friction and wearing of the wood, I inserted pieces of sheet brass, making a puncture in the plate or sheet of brass from the inside with a fine pointed punch, the projecting piece caused by the punching of the hole on the top piece suits in the oil hole of the cups and the bottom in a small hole made in the bottom of the plummer block to receive it, which prevents the sheets of brass from turning with the spindle. By this means the wooden plummer blocks answer all the purposes of iron and brass bearings. The tenon of the plummer blocks, Fig. 17 in Supplement, I made sufficiently long to receive a cotter or key under tbe rail, which being made to " draw " secures it in such a way as a wedge or glue cannot do, and it has the advantage of being removed, if necessary, and put back again at leisure, or they can be renewed without the least damage being done to the rail. In making these remarks I do in no way find fault with the
twenty
the intended,
and
its position
and
superficial area.
The
cheapest roof that yon can have is weather boarding, which will be nailed on in a horizontal position, on boarding placed vertically with slips nailed over the joints. But if your roof is exposed to the sun, or has a southern aspect, in other words, it will split with the heat in all probability and leak, thus proving a dear roof. A glazed roof comes tolerably cheap, as this will cost you from 4d. to 6d. per foot super when complete. If you have bards covered with zinc, which makes a good job, you may reckon the zinc work at 6d. per foot super complete. Lastly, you may have corrugated iron, which costs from 25s. to 27s. 6d. per cwt., and is sold in sheets ranging from 6 feet by 2 feet, to 8 feet by 3 feet, in gauges that range from lj pounds to 4$ pounds per square foot.
feet of piping with unions all properly fitted on, and a bracket and burner. For lighting an amateur's workshop in any place where gas cannot be laid on, it is difficult to find any other mode of lighting-
more suitable and convenient than this. The apparatus is supplied by Mr. John Bateman, Engineering Modeller, 131, High
Eolborn,
who
is
Windmills.
Fern Cases.
A. B. The series of articles now appearing in Amateur Work, on '* How to Make
ral designs of the kind
and Manage Ferneries," will contain seveyou require. J. "W. S. Tour wants will also be met in the above articles in an early number of
Amateur Work.
Telephones.
"Watch Jobber.Tour
accidentally mislaid.
I
first
letter
was
am
sorry that I
Mowing Machine. know no manufacturer or" mowing machines who would supply you
Castings for
G. F.
D. 1.
The alterations I have made are by additions only, and I think that Mr. Laker will agree with me in these alterations. The correction made in Part XV. was too late for me to act upon I was puzzled to know how he could have made the crank rod as long as he did. One thing more I have to do to make the machine complete, and that is to attach a drill for boring holes. And I am thinking to replace the wooden table top by sheet iron, No. 14 B. W. G.
specification.
cannot write any more articles on the subject, but perhaps some correspondent will tell you how to make a microphone. E.A. W. (Anerley Road). I cannot give an easier way to bore the holes in telephone case than with a long gimlet. Bore half way through from one end, and then start from the other till the two holes meet in the middle. A. B. Test your bobbin wire with the battery, to make sure it is perfect and not
If you find it all right, short-circuited. then the fault lies, I think, either in your
with
the parts of a small machine of which is what you appear to want. Perhaps Messrs. A. A. DorringChambers, Accrington, Imperial ton & Co., near Manchester, could help you with castings, made specially for you, if you write
all
this description,
2. I will endeavour to ascertain the names of some firms who will supply the parts of a watch, but I fear you will find it a troublesome task to put them together. Try the parts of a simple clock first.
to them.
Fountain. Egroeg. Tour query is somewhat vague, probably the sketch in Part XVI. of Amateur Wobk, under the head of " Ferneries, etc.," will give you an idea respecting the
simple requirements of a reservoir fountain.
having the disc too far away from the end of the matrnet, or else, when vibrating, it touches the edge of the bobbin. Tou had better allow the end of the magnet to project clear of the bobbin, and then bring the disc as close to it as possible without
actually touching.
In Brown Paper. H. A. M. {Kentish Town). The labour of removing paper would be more, and the
An Arrangement
liability of injuring
the edges
to my
left
greater
in this
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL
Incised Work.
J. T. F. (Brurton). The method of doing this ornamental work will "be treated by the author of "'Wood-Carving for Amateurs,"
399
Bench Holdfast.
E. H. B. (Penang, Straits Settlements) writes: In Part IX. of Amateur Wobk you gave us some admirable designs of German work benches; may I bring to your notice an appliance common to every French work bench, which would render the benches you illustrate still more per. feet ? The appliance I speak of is called a "valet," and is in form as under. It is formed of a bar of one inch diameter iron, drawn down square, and bent into the above form. The lower end, B, is inserted in a circular hole through any convenient part
: I have never
Enigma
" enigma
in
in
Wood.
the
following
clean, straight-grained yellow pine, recently cut from the log that is not seasoned, 9 in. long, lj in. hroad, and in. thick. In the
\ in.
;
mortise
li in. long, as represented at a and on the other piece, after it has been dressed to J in. thick, at 3 in. from one end, make a tenon
and 1J in. long, as represented at and taper the other end as shown, so as to make it easy to introduce into the mortise. Then get hoth pieces steamed, and while they are heating prepare something to
Jin. thick
B,
prevent it being driven through, and a strong cramp or vice to compress b. Then, when the wood is thoroughly steamed, take b and place it in
a, so as to is
heard these could be had separately to suit machines of the improved " Lester " type, but a line to any of the dealers in them would settle the point. If he cannot get ODe they are simple enough to make. Two circular pieces of any light wood, about the size of 1\ inch in diameter. Bore a hole in centre of one of these \ inch in diameter, and put over it a lap of thin kid or leather. Now fix in some way a little lead round the space uncovered by the leather ; on the other side, cover it all over with a bit of green baize or old velvet, cutting out where the hole is, of course. Procure some brass tubing, J inch in diameter, used in model locomotive building, about 2d. a foot an inch and a half will be all you want. Bore a hole in edge of the other piece of wood, inch deep, and work this hole out on to
;
from
when b
Ifl
V
a,
hole
the
and bend
ENIGMA
INT
WOOD.
the vice or cramp, with a piece of hard wood on each 3ide, so as to press its whole surface from the tenon to the tapered end equally, and screw up as hard as possible. Then withdraw a from the steam, and place it in its prepared position; try the screw again on B; then take it out, enter its tapered end into the mortise, and drive through until the shoulders that have not been pressed rest on a ; then put them into iot or warm water and leave them in it for several hours, then take them out and dry; afterwards cut all the arms to an equal length, and clean off. It will allow of examination better if the tenon on b is made 2 in. long, so as to enable a to be moved along, as when all is firmly together it will ~be at once asserted that the cross is made of three pieces. Microscope for Amateurs. An article on this subI. M. (Kirkcaldy) ject is at last, I hope, within "measurable distance" of publication. The microtome will be mentioned therein. No reliable information can be obtained about the eidograph. Your friend confounds it with the pantagraTyh, a machine which is used for enlarging or reducing drawings to scale. These are cheap enough ; indeed, it would cost more to make one than to bny one.
wood. Insert your tube, of wood. Now round on the edges with a piece of pliable leather or kid, and your bellows are complete. It is fixed on underside of the upper arm of saw, and at every stroke the bellows are compressed in contact with the table.
side of
it
cover both
all
Rust Preventive.
(Leith). I am not acquainted with the American preparation, of which you ask the name. A mixture for preserving iron and steel goods from rust, may be made by melting J oz. of camphor in J lb. of hog's lard, adding a little black-lead in order to darken it and assimilate it to the
J.
M. A.
late years.
He
is
cordially
Ed."|
communication.
Subjects in
colour of iron or, 6 parts of rosin, 9 parts of sanda'ac, and 3 parts of lac, may be subjected to a gentle heat until melted, 6 parts of essence of turpentine being added gradually, the mixture being kept well stirred all the time until the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated. Then add 9 parts
;
ed especially for men, but all amateurs of the male kind, whether men or fathom of men, will find something in it to suit their wants. You do not name your " particular hobby," but I gather from the postscript to your
letter
it is fret-cutting; if so, I be able to tell you that some special things in this kind of work are in hand, and that in Vol. III. a series of papers on Model Yacht Building will see the light. Instead of growling, tell me what you and your friends want, and I will endeavour to satisfy you as far as lies within my power. If you want a duplicate copy
that
am glad to
of rectified alcohol, filter through blottingpaper and keep for use in a tightly-corked
bottle or jar.
Millen's " Snow and Wet Eepeller and Sole Protector," prepared by Humphrey Millen, Fern Factory, Little Marlow, Bucks, when Emeared over gun barrels, tricycles, knives, bits, garden tools, and all steel and iron goods, with a warm rag,
keeps them from rusting. A box of this direct from the factory costs only Is. post
free.
any particular Supplement send 6d. to the publishers, and name the Supplement you require, and they will send it to you in a post or two.
of
400
House-Painting and Papering. Mr. George Edwinson writes : Readers of my articles on the above subject will be glad to know where to get an assortment of cheap artistic wall-papers. Samples of such
an assortment have beeu forwarded to me by Mr. T. C. Stock, h, Victoria Street, Bristol, who will also be glad to forward samples post-free to any intending purchaser. The papers are of good quality, and very cheap at the prices quoted, some thin but useful papers of good design being offered as low as 2d. per piece of 12 yards, or 3 17s. 6d. per ream of 480 piece-, when 50 pieces or Thicker over of a pattern are ordered. papers are also offered at prices ranging from the above up to 9d. per piece. The following table of measurements will be found useful to amateurs
:
AMATEURS IN
or cut
COUNCIL.
9-inch cemented walls of a detached house f
of 6d. each.
He
Brazing and Soldering. Mr. George Edwinson writes :Mr. G. Freeman, 112, Newhall Street, Birmingham, sends me an account of a new and improved Heat Deflector, for use with the blow-pipe, as a support for the work whilst it ia being
brazed or soldered. This article is made of a very light porous clay, specially prepared and corrugated, so as to allow the heat to pass entirely underneath the article to be soldered It is superior as a support to that of an ordinary fire-brick, it does not burn away like composition supports, it does not crackle or spit like charcoal, nor crumble away like pumice The article has been tested by many of the leading electroplate and jewellery manufacturers of Birmingham, who speak highly in their testiBlocks of the monials of its efficiency. material may be had in disc from 14 inches in diameter, or in lumps 12S inches square
at 3s. each.
standing within three hundred yards of the sea on the South Coast, with two coats externally, as also the corrugated iron roof
two
and rear of building, and it has effectually kept out all traces of damp and wet during of the wettest and most stormy winters, I think, on record. The papers on the walls were preserved and dry, the paint having resisted the penetrating force of the wind, and kept out both rain and sea moisture. I think I gave the south-west side three coats. [The best thanks of the readers of Amateur Work are due to Mr. Markham for the information he has so kindly given. Ed.]
Moving Models for Bazaars, etc. Hellesdon. 1. The first of a series of papers on " Moving Models for Bazaars"
appear in Amateur Work for July. 2. " The Violin and how to Master it," is a work on playing, not making, the violin. It is published by Simpkin and Marshall, where
will
:
o<Nco-*"*o:or*aooo
CO
fNCOCO-*iOlrt 'XT-CO
C1i-H
MWWJWrCDN
it.
0OrHij]WwM'*"5iBCO
o
ft
Improvements In Fret-cutting
M-Oi-<MClM-*'rf<iOCO
OO
"-S
i-<i
^<SJCO-f^JUO
fflc
owmcicoco**
5
to
C1000"-hC1?](t5M
o
CDoiamooi-iwnco
^COC10!0100hh?j
OCDOOQOOfflOOHH
SI _ P
Machine. H. W. B. (Morwenstow) writes I take the liberty of suggesting an improvement in the mode of making a simple fret-sawing machine, as described in page 36, Part I cut a I., Vol. i., of Amateur "Work. hole about 1,V inch wide, and the shape as diagram, shown in the annexed the great:
(Hereford)
writes : I have
made
11
CD
-g
'oNoocoooojacoo ___ iO
(NrN.t>f.coaooiesci
of the articles as described by Mr. Mallet as " Strong and Simple Home-made Furniture," and find the patterns very good ; but I would advise any other amateur who may bethinking of making tbem to use stouter wood than that mentioned, more especially for the legs of the tables, which ought to be 2-inch stuff, instead of 1-inch, or the table will not stand firm ; and the same with the other articles.
most
C0*XSOI>.t*t>.COC0O)Ol
-j<(BCOCDtl>tCOCO00
^letONNNCO
CO
ci
^Tftoi^iOiowacDCo
l
GQT*i-#Tf<"*J<'#lO"5OlO
to
from
Cornice.
-\)
in
Height
Skirting
Feet,
'
IMPROVEMENT
Octopus Glue. Ignoramus. 1. Tou will find instructions for tinning the soldering iron in "Brazing and Soldering," in Part XIV. of Amateur. Work. 2. The sample of Octopus glue that was sent to me appeared to be excellent and as it can be used cold, it is certainly most desirable for the generality of operations in which glue is required. The sample was sent me on the recommendation of an amateur who uses it, and thinks most highly
of of I will it, as I mentioned in my notice. subject it to fresh tests. Of course, the " Gloy " Company know their own business best, but I think it would be desirable for them either to send out sample bottles to applicants who cannot obtain it in their immediate neighbourhood, or to supply lists of
Explanation. Find the height of the room between the skirting and cornice in the left hand column, and the nearest
measure round the walls on the figures where the two lines would cross or meet will show the number of pieces a room will require. Thus, a room not exceeding 6U feet round the walls, and not exceeding 8 feet between the skirting and cornice, will take 8 pieces. *** The space occupied by windows and doors must invariably be included as part of the measure round walls.
figures to the
est length 6 inches, and least 3 inches, about a foot from the upper transverse piece. Iu each upright and through them 1 put pieces of wood about 2 feet long and 2 inches wide in middle, diminishing to 1$ inches at the ends, as shown in diagram. To the outside arms I hung equal weights, and attached the inner arms to the upper side of sliding frame with chains, and I find this plan answers admirably.
tradesmen in different
localities
from
Mr.
S.
Stencilled Decoration.
District Surveyor, St. George's in the East, etc., gives the following testimony in favour
of Pulford's
Angleton writes : Amateur decorators desiring new designs for stencilling papers
do well to communicate with Mr. E. Gallop, 16, Grapes HiU, Norwich, who has me a sample design for a stencil, printed on thick paper. Mr. Gallop will
w.ll
Magnetic Paint.
He
writes
Under the head of " Novelties" in Amateur Wore, you ask for information respecting Pulford's Magnetic Paint. As I am pleased
with the result so far of my experience of it, I think your Journal should have the benefit of it. Two years ^ago I painted the
forwarded to
Is. 6d.
per dozen,
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
Oil-Gilding.
series of articles 011 Gilding: in all its branches will appear in
"Vol. III.
401
at home. C. G. says: I have,^vithin the past few months, become a subscriber to your excellent publication, Amateur Wore, and have just received all the back numbers
Bed Dragoon
is
In oil-gilding on wood, the surface rubbed very smooth with Dutch rushes, and the wood is then primed with glue-size, and painted with two coats of oil-paint, with a final coat of flatting. The work is then
two coats, the gold leaf being applied when the second oat is in a proper state to receive it, which is denoted by its feeling clammy or stickv when touched. This mode, of course, fills and conceals the grain of the wood. In order to show the grain of oak, the gilding must be applied to the wood itself, which
sized, generally receiving
An Articled
through my bookseller. During my spare hours I occasionally pass my time in "fretting," for which purpose I use the simple, but useful "Roger's" machine. The great drawback to amateurs in this colony is the extra expense attendant up<n everything imported, and also the
impossibility of obtaining many of the most simple necessaries iu order to carry out any
work
must be sized to
receive
it.
Telescopes. B. (T n). I cannot venture to give an opinion on the telescope you mention, because I have never handled it. The range of a telescope depends very much on the size of tbe object viewed through it. Thus, yon can distinguish some objects at twice, thrice, and four times the distance that you can others. For example, if a telescope enables you to discern the face of a clock at a distance of two or three miles, you could not see the same object as distinctly at double the distance. "When lines are spoken
and when nearly dry to rub it over with oil, Castor oil is also applied with a sponge. the best oil for this purpose. It depends entirely on the varnish that has been applied to the leather, and to the extent the surface is cracked whether or not this process will Directions for making a be beneficial. library table with drawer will be given in
Vol.
fir
m.
For the
making a table
Home-made Furniture,"
Scale of Sideboard.
(Midlothian). For the sideboard illustrated and described in page 49, will find 3 feet a convenient Vol. I., you height for the lower portion, from the ground to the upper surface of its cornice, immediately under the slab on which the upper part is reared. This gives about 6 feet 6 inches for the extreme width of the sideboard taken along the edge of the slab, and about 7 feet 3 inches for the extreme height from ground to top of cornice of central part. The width of the lower portion is 2 feet, and that of the upper portion 1 foot. From these data you can easily construct a working drawing to scale. Make this drawing on a scale sufficiently large to
W. H.
B.
of in reference to scientific subjects as a of measurement, the line denotes the twelfth part of an inch: the line is further
means
W. E.
My to a satisfactory completion. machine, which in England, may be had for 13s. 6d., cost me 25s.; while for a "Prize Demas" I have been asked 3 10s., the same to be had in England for 2 2s. Only a few days ago I endeavoured to obtain the preparation for etching on glass, mentioned in your " Ways and Means," in Part I. An ounce bottle to contain the liquid, made of gutta-percha, cost 2s. 6d. After visiting every chemist's shop in the town I could not get the fluoride of ammonium for love nor money. The chemists have never had it here, and I was informed by one, that if he had any, he would not charge less than 9s an ounce for it. This was quite enough for me, and you can easily understand from these quotations that amateur workers in Tasmania are few and far between. I often envy the amateurs of England the ready ease with which thfy may be supplied with everything required, and at such a low price. Another drawback is, that if X should send to England for a few of the small things advertised in your Amateur Wore, as, for instance, carbons for electrical purposes, a small machine, with clamps,
for cutting
and
fitting picture-frames,
and
such
show all the detail. A scale of 1 inches or 2 inches, or even 3 inches to the foot, or quarter scale, will not be too largei
Painting Magic Lantern Slides.
Peintre. The process of painting slides magic lantern will be treated during the winter months. In painting slides, you should use transparent colours, namely, Prussian blue, gamboge, carmine, verdigris, madder brown, indigo, crimson lake, and ivory black, with the semi-transparent colours, raw and burnt sienna, and Vandyke and cappal brown, thinning oil colours with ordinary megilp to a degree just sufficient for properworking, and using for a medium for laying on the first coat of water colours gelatine thoroughly dissolved and hot. When perfectly dry, this coat can be shaded and finished with water colours mixed in the ordinary way with cold water ; but the manipulation of the added colours must be gentle, so as not to disturb the layer first put on the glass. A thin coat of the best mastic varnish heightens the effect of shades painted in water colours, but oil colours require no varnish.
for the
sold at different establishments, how can I best get them sent out to me in Tasmania ? I know it is possible to order things through the merchants here, but they would not be
liquor when a clear size has been produced. Give the work two coats of size, and varnish with two or three coats of the best mastic varnish, or a varnish composed of 3 ounces of Canada balsam, and the same quantity of clear white resin, dissolved in a pint of oil Another good varnish for of turpentine. coloured pictures is Canada balsam dissolved in spirits of turpentine, in the proportion of 1 ounce of the former to 2 ounces of the latter.
Sale of Fret-Work. Subscriber. In order to dispose of any fret-work you may cut, you had better make arrangements with some dealer in fancy goods in the locality in which you live. I cannot possibly say whether or not the prices you may get will be remunerative.
Hydraulic Earn.
H. V. CS't. Catherine's). The construction of a hydraulic ram would be, I fear, quite beyond your power. It would require much space and an elaborate diagram to make its construction intelligible and when given, it would be possessed of no practical value to
;
Difficulties of
Amateurs in the
amateurs. You will find a description of the machine in any good cyclopaedia; for example, Knigbf s " English Cyclopaedia," Division, " Art3 and Sciences."
Colonies.
C- G. (Hohart, Tasmania) has written the following letter, which I give in extenso, as it may prove interesting to many an amateur
bothered with such trifles, or if they did send for them, the receiver would have to pay pretty dearly for the things thus obtained. Do you know of any way out of this difficulty ? There has just been a person here, styling himself "Professor" Mills, who ornaments and writes names on glass tumblers with a pen, while you wait. The chemicals used form a mixture very like thick cream, and are kept either in a leaden, or gutta-percha bottle. By the way, I think a paper on " How to Manufacture Gutta-Percha into Useful Articles," would be very acceptable to most of your readers, myself included. After writing on the glass, he washes off the chemical with a damp towel, and gives you the tumbler engraved with wreaths of beautifully flowers, etc. Can you, or any of the readers of Amateur Wore, inform me as to the chemicals used for this work also, their cost, and if an ordinary pen may be used for writing with the acid ? To return to Will you kindly let me know fretting. where to obtain Griffin's Patent Fret-Saws, their price per gross and probable cost on arrival in Tasmania ? There are numbers of things I should very much like to have information upon, but fear you will tire of your new correspondent.
;
402
Stop-Chamfer Plane.
writes I should like to "bring Tinder the notice of your readers a chamfering plane which I have lately come across. In page 477 of "Vol. I., Amiteub Work, I saw a notice of a new chamfer plane which I have seen at work. It works very well, hut cannot he compared to this one. I enclose an engraving of it, cut out of a price list of Messrs. Booth Brothers, Dublin. Its price is 4s. The advantages claimed for it
:
1
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
hogany would be very suitable. Having planed and cut to size the sides and top and bottom, he must proceed to cut the grooves to admit shelf, as shown in Fig. 4. This done, he can commence to fix them, permanently by screwing, as shown in Fig. 2, top and bottom to sides likewise put in back, not forgetting to leave top and bottom pro;
Punch
each door of ordinary window-glass. If this latter course is followed, a bar, f, Fig. 1,
are,
firstly
and
chiefly, it
not only
stop" cut any size 1 chamfer, and the size can STOP CHAMFER he regulated by PLANE. a stop which can Ve seen in the engraving. I have used the plane a great deal, and it has saved
the
it
'"
the doeB
also;
must be fixed. All that now remains is to put fastening or lock on door, and likewise nail, with ornamental brass-headed tacks, embossed leather to front of shelves. This finishes the work. If he would prefer one door instead of two, simply leave out middle bars; this would show off books much better, but not look so nice in itself. Wishing him every success, and advising him to make working drawings before he commences, I will apologize for cutting these instructions so short, but our Editor has no room to spare. I have omitted to say that if two doors are used, he must rebate half the front of the left door stile, and half the back of the right door stile, and that the width of stile be J inch, with -r-boss in the
centre inch, as
marked
in Fig.
1.
me weeks of labour, and therefore I thoroughly recommend it. [I have not yet met with this plane, but from the illustration you kindly send, and which I have
copied here, I am of opinion that it would do its work better than the chamfering tool to which you allude, and be more useful to the_amateur. Ed.]
FIG.
Lathe. Deutschlander {Dresden) sends the following reply to E. P. H. (Surbiton) : I liave a 45-inch lathe, with a circular saw fitted.
Circular
Saw on
O
I. FRONT ELEVATION OF SMALL BOOK-CASE.
E
INFORMATION SUPPLIED.
W.
" scratch," and easily made. In beech is made as shown, and cut through centre and parts where friction, slightly rounded the shoulder stands out about half an inch, the stock 9 inches long,
best, in inch-stuff,
;
glance at Fig. 2 will at once show what I mean. Now cut two of Fig. 3, making holes half through for ornament. Fix a good bold moulding round top and bottom, letting that which goes round top just cover
C?
SCRATCH TOOL, and screwed together as shown. The cutters are made from the ordinary scraper, and sharpened in the same way. By cutting up a scraper and with a file, can make any shape moulding required only when mak;
ing a complicated cutter, make it in parts, or the difficulty in sharpening will be great. More details I would with pleasure give, hut defer taking up your valuable space.
Design for Small Book-case. sends some suggestions on this subject for Apprentice Merchant, which shall be forwarded to him if he will send his name and address. Heeewaed sends, in reply to Apprentice Merchant, the annexed rough sketch of book-case, and thinks if Apprentice Mer-
Young Cabinet-maker
made from
steel
bar,
joint
blocks of
chant will examine it for a moment or so, he will at once see how it is put together
"but perhaps it will
made by the piece b and top, gluing wood as seen in Figs. 2 and 5. Now commence making doors. Eefer to Fig. 1, and he will see at once the method
He may
be useful
it
if
say a few
I need
words about
hardly say
Itoe
way
is
made.
very simple of construction, a neat and nicelooking addition to any room, showing off his volumes to perfection, I will say nothing about what wood is to be used, but mait is
and when
finished, presents
a moulding round the inside of doorframe, if he would prefer it this is likewise Bhown in Fig. 6. But, in any case, the rebate must be made to admit glass. Now, as regards glass, one piece of thin plateglass to each door would look by far the best, but certainly dearest ; or two pieces in
;
turned to a shape like Fig. 1. If the querist has no means of cutting a thread on the end for the nut, I think it might be dispensed with, and a cotter driven through the spindle againstawasher, as shown by dotted lines. Now as to the table. I had mine made of cast iron (though brass does better) for cheapness. The stem is wrought iron screwed in. I have no guide, though if 1 wanted one, I would make it of brass plate. I omitted to say that the saw revolves between centres with a carrier. The spindle is used for emery-wheels, and I mean to use it for a gear-cutter in a frame. The stem of
saw table
fits
T-rest socket.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
Bending Wood.
J.
403
Spring Mattresses If Kex Kogate will kindly say what kind of spring mattress he wants, I will do all I can to help him I think
every kind, but especially ash, can be bent by steaming or soaking in hot water. To bend the strip of wood inch square and 3 feet long into a circle, proceed as follows: Describe on a stout plank a circle of about 12 inches diameter. Round this diameter, and just touching the line inside, drive in at regular intervals some stout screws, this is to be done all round except one space
in flannel aui pour boiling water on. After soaking for a quarter of an hour place one end inside the screw a, bring the other end round the circle and slip under end at a. Now let dry and then cut to proper length. Of course you must have the strip a little longer (siy 6 inches), than the finished size. I may say I have bent timbers for small pleasure boats to a smaller diameter than this without any trouble.
up
not to continue rubbing on the same spot, but keep slowly moving all over the surface. "When your pad feels dry, take a little more polish on your cotton-wool, and wrap it with a fresh corner of the wrapper. "When a fairly good gloss appears, let it rest for an hour or so, and then with fine glass-paper rub it all off again down to the wood, and start again. Keep on working till you have a brilliant surface, keeping glass-paper beside you, and rubbing "bad" spots whenever they appear. When it is brilliant enough to please you, let it rest for a day for the polish to "go down;" rub it up again, as before, and then it is ready to " spirit off." Get some methylated spirits, and put a little into the same cotton-wool, put on the wrapper, and on that a very small drop of oil, and work it as the polish. Continue this till you can see your face clearly in the polish. Tou should never have more spirit in your pad at a time than is absolutely necessary ; very little will do. The following are the essential points in the work : Always polish in a warm, almost hot atmosphereclose to a fire, for instance. Always change the spot on your wrapper when you take fresh polish. Keep your pad always moving; that is, never let it rest on the work, as it is liable to pull off all the polish. Keep your hand firm, but do not use too much pressure. Never have too much polish in your pad at a time. N.B. In fretwork it is advisable to have the work fixed by tacks to a hit of board, to keep it fiat and stationary.
Greek
writes
the stuffed springs are simplest. Anything in the way of bedding I will give any
in-
formation required.
Bamboo Canes.
C. J. M. writes to say that "W. J. M. (Chatham) can buy bamboo canes at Bastendorf's, in Euston Square.
idea of a desk for J. L. (Liverpt ol). Fig.l the desk as open for use, and Fig. 2 is a
FIG.
I.
section along the line a, b, Fig. 1. J. L. will require a board 12 feet long and U inches
and a piece
and
inch thiek
Cement
of Gutta-Percha Parings.
:
FIG.
2.
SECTION OF DESK.
is
E. "W. (East Grinstead) in reply to J. B. (Rochdale) writes Take 2 parts black pitch, 1 part gutta-percha, melt in ladle, stir well, and then run into moulds.
for the drawers and inside divisions. Instruction in making would need considerable space and illustration, but if J. L.
let
them
I.
Cement
J. T.
for
Cork Basket.
needful I will
The mixture
will
produce a lather
Mounts
like soap.
Window-Cleaning Chair. E. "W. (East Grinstead) writes :If G.W. B. (Forest Gate) refers to "Every Man His Own Mechanic," page 430, he will get a design of window-cleaning chair, with size of timbers and the method of putting together. [No he will only find the method of making a chair, one part of which, turns on the other, so as to form a set of steps.
:
0. H. (Ballymena) writes in reply to F. (Brixton) If waterproof glue would suit, it can be made by dissolving 1 oz. of gum sandarac and 1 oz. of mastic in a pint of alcohol, to which 1 oz. of white turpentine is to he added. At same time, a very thick glue is to be kept ready, mixed with a little isinglass. The solution of the resins in alcohol is to be heated to boiling in a glue-pot, and the glue added gradually, with constant stirring, so as to render the
:
D. J. [Tunbridge Wells) writes to say that G. P. P. will find the cut-out mounts sold by Brown, Scott & Co., 82, High Holborn, of good quality and cheap. He should write for samples and price-list.
Bleaching Coral.
C. T. (Bristol) writes in
(Bristol)
:
I have bleached
Ei>.]
French Polishing.
Pc3tch sends the following reply to Anti-
whole mass homogeneous. After the mixis strained through a cloth, it is ready for use, aod is to be applied hot. It dries quickly, and becomes very hard, and surfaces of wood united by it do not separate when immersed in water.
ture
ing with a finger, a strong force, or spray of water, from the ordinary water-tap. The force drives the dirt from the cells; the coral should then be dried in the sun ; if not thoroughly white, or bleauhed, dip it in a weak solution of lime-water then dry in the sun, or air, not before a fire. If dipped in red ink when wet, the coral will assume
;
a blush
tint.
writes
Micros-
Ex-
copical Student cannot do better than write to Mr. J. Lancaster & Son, Colmore Mow, Birmingham, who will give him every information he may require, and also supply him with good and cheap lenses, and any other material he may require.
perimentalist can dissolve his vulcanised india-rubber in a ladle, and stir in, while
warm,
not catch
Oxford Frame-Making.
I find the B. L, C. G. (Islington) writes best and cheapest house for Oxford, oak, room-mouldings, Gus Kochefort, gilt, or 29, Basinghall Street, London. On mention of this work, he gave me some very useful hints on Oxford frame - making. He supplies every requisite for frame-making at very
:
Re-Polishing Old Oak. E. "W. (East Grinttead) writes : Scarlet Bean had better first plane off the rough,
or scrape off with steel scraper or a piece of newly -broken glass, then glass-paper with fine glass-paper, and repolish.
reasonable prices.
s 3
: ;
404
Wind-Power
Dputschlander
for Lathes.
AMATEURS IN
(Dresden) sends the fol-
COUNCIL.
Polishing
lowing reply to W. S. (Longside) wislies to do any work with, the lathe, I advise an engine, either steam, gas, or hot air, as wind is intermittent, and wind-motors are always giving trouble. There are many about here being used for purnping only. Those used for chaff-cutting require many
S.
: If W.
counter-shafts and cog-wheels, and are admitted to give a great deal of trouble, as they have to be taken down in the winter in windy localities, as in tbe first high wind they go to jneces. I also think it would be
The
scratches have disappeared, and the surface is smooth. Get three pennyworth of oxide of iron, and a large flat piece of cork, with a smooth surface free from dirt. Put the oxide in an old pepper-box, pepper some on the cork, and wet it then rub the stone on the cork for some time, renew the oxide when necessary. Py this method they can be polished equal to professional workCare must be taken that no dirt is on the cork or slate, or it will scratch the work. Begin by polishing small stones, until you are accustomed to it. There is also a stonepolishing machine sold by Messrs. Cotton & Johnson, 22, Grafton Street, Soho.
;
Gun
Barrels.
:
In A. H. (Great Yarmouth) writes auswer to the question on gun barrels, I receipts think the following are reliable No. 1, sweet spirit of nitre, 3 ozs. gum benzoin, 1 ozs. tincture muriate of. iron,
; ;
sulphate of copper, 2 drachms spirit of wine, i oz. Mix, and add 2 lbs. of soft water. No. 2, tincture of muriate of iron, 2 drachms sweet spirit of nitre. 2 drachms sulphate of copper, oz.; water, 6 ozs. Either of the above are applied with a sponge, after cleaning the barrel with lime and water. When dry, polish with iron scratch-brush, and apply again till the reJ oz.
; ;
;
wheel of a size to drive a lathe would he about 6 feet diameter; vanes, 2 feet 3 inches
long, 1$ inches wide,
How
A.
to
Make a Hookah.
wishes to know, page
353.
quired shade
is
obtained.
W.
(Leeds)
^ inch thick.
The way
I did
was simple.
.
First, get a
INFORMATION SOUGHT.
Amateur Dentistry.
Country Bod writes : I see in Vol. I. of Amateur Work, page 58, some remarks on
and that the writer is willing to give further information on the subject with regard to working of vulcanite work. I should like him to write us a short article
dentistry,
Photographic Transparencies.
wide-mouthed bottle
W. T. W. writes Transparencies, as described by C. T., Jim., are either Woodbury or carbon, the former quite out of reach of an amateur. Carbon transparencies are
:
or a child's siicking-bottle will do) Second, get a cork to fit it tightly then with a hot wire burn two holes in the cork large enough for
;
(a pickle-bottle
made, but unless C. T., Jun., has some knowledge of carbon printing, I am afraid our Editor would not care to give the room (about two columns) in "Amateurs in Council." If, however, our Editor can find room either in the Supplement or in the ordinary pages, I shall be glad to give an exhaustive article on the subject. [Kindly write an article to appear in the ordinary pages. Ed.] Briefly, the process stands thus: A special carbon tissue is sensitized by i mmersion in bichromate of potash dried, and after exposing under negative, is immersed in cold water, and squeezed into contact with a piece of glass, covered with an insoluble film of gelatine, after which the transparency is developed by immersion in hot water at 120 Fahr. Of the beauty of carbon transparencies there cannot be any question, and, when properly done, form an
easily
on the subject. Would not amateur mechanics be able to make apparatus from
? I should like a little more information as to where I could get teeth, [Dentistry is a subject with tools, etc. which amateurs should not meddle, but oftentimes " fools rush in where angels fear to tread." If you wish it, I can put you in communication with the writer of the remarks to which you refer, but I cannot in-
description
FIG. i.
the stem of a clay pipe to pass tightly through. Fig. 1 shows cork with holes. Next, get a French straw, that is, a clay pipe, with the bowl in a line with the stem (Fig. 2) then get a short piece of clay -pipe shank about 3 incbes long. Fill your bottle
;
Cheap lathes.
J. P. (Staveley) writes: I buy a small lathe. I should be
if
am
wanting to
exquisite
method
dows, lamp-shades,
Hard Stopping for Wood. "Willing to Help sends the following reply to Exon: Take equal parts white lead (ground in oil) and common putty (by
bulk, not weight), mix together. If not required white, stain to any colour required with some ground colour, as Venetian red for red, a touch of limber to this for brown,
FIG. 2.
any of your readers choosing one suitable. I want one that is adapted for turning and boring light metalwork. There are so many rival makers of machine tools, that it is extremely difficult for me to fix my choice on any particular
machine. your S. E. (Dublin) asks : Will any of readers kindly answer this ? Could an ordinary sewing-machine stand be used for a fret-saw machine ? I think it could and if I had proper instructions how to proceed,
;
and put in a few drops of place the cork in the bottle, and insert tbe pipe in hole No. 2, the end of tbe shank to be in the water. Now insert the short piece of pipe-shank in hole No. 1, and fasten a flexible tube to the top of it.
half full of water,
perfume.
Now
or ochre for yellow, umber to this for stone colour, etc. Press the putty well in with the knife to get it solid, let it stand two or three days to harden, then rub over with fine sand-paper. W. E. C. (Southsea), in reply to Exon, has found that beeswax melted with double the quantity of common resin makes a very hard stopping. It should be applied while quite hot, as it both hardens and cools very quick indeed.
fur-
nish
me with drawings
for a walking-stick
gun?
~T~
~^=
Weather Vane for Summer-house. W. J. writes : Could you give me a design for a windmill and weather vane, to on the top of a summer-house ?
fix
|=a
;w
f
",:~-
How
W.
to Polish Stones.
G. (Blackheath) writes in reply to E. A. F. (Cromer) : Level the best side of tbe stone with a geological hammer, take care not to break the stone after which rub it on sandstone, or a grindstone, till a level surface is obtained. It will now be found covered with scratches to remove these, rub the surface, kept constantly wet, on a slate. This must last till all the
; ;
Charge the pipe-head with tohacco, light, and you are in Paradise. This is much cleaner and less injurious than the common pipe, as the smoke is washed by passing through the water. Fig. 3, hookah complete, cost price 2d. Cornelius Nepos. Firing China Paintings. Wm. Pridat. Paintings can he sent to No. 71, King Street, Manchester, to he fired.
as
Amateur and Others. For the present, much space is devoted to Organ-building
Perhaps at some future time the instrument yon name may be dealt with. P. K. (Henley). I have some good papers in hand on the subject about which you write, and which will not be lost sight Papers on the C. B. D. (Woolvrich). of. subject you mention will be useful to many, and shall be given as soon as possible.
as can be spared.
TIM V10LIN:
THE VIOLIN
By
:
HOW TO
MAIC&
IT.
i
405
HOW
TO MAKE
IT.
EDWARD HERON-ALLEN.
gauge draw a line round the edge of the slab T V ncn from the plane side, and with a flattish gouge cut away the wood down to this line, first at the two ends
till
B,
takes the
line G,
till
(St/p.,
OL may now
T
proceed
to
prepare the
back and belly in page 169, Vol. I. the maple intensely difficult to join properly, for when squared and held up to the light, no crack showing the light must appear in the join, nor must a fine line of glue appear when the and to produce this perfect fit join is finally planed in curly wood like maple
for the
forth in
along the
horizontal lines
Part
17.
Cut
in a
surface
very
for a
carefully,
and
8,
cut of the
wrong place
at
will spoil
with
gouge.
The back
hardest,
31. STEADYING WEDGES USED IN CUTTING BELLY.
be the
as
especially
wood
must
only
FIG. ?3.
be noticed there
a
very
small
to plane
is
STAGES OF FORMING
grooves
cut the
if
you make a
away
in
margin two
belly
wrong way of
the grain.
will
The
belly
be much
the
its
easier
difficulty
halves, each
only five
indeed,
lies
FIG. 32.
inches broad.
The
to
in
ease,
for
it
CURVE OF ORDINARY
and the
be
easier
join.
c,
CUTTING GOUGE.
When
Fig.
joined (as at
26,
Vol.
flat
I.),
the
FIG. 35.
irretriev-
under or
slabs
side of the
Do
not
carry
this
fectly truly
edge laid across them in any direction will not show any
straight
wood
all
rather than
try to chisel
them away,
finishing of
leaving
hollows or
inequalities
in their surface.
Now
sloping
FIG. 36.
FIG.
which
will
be described
glue on to the
as
later on.
When
set
it
this is
Fig.
plane
DIAGRAM SHOWING
OF BACK.
JUSTMENT OF THICKNESSES
and
well in
their
surfaces
may
its
pointed
in this
fixing
it
at either
end with a
little
cramp
(Fig.
i)_
when
it
You
plank outline
(c, c, c)
with
there will be a
margin round
it
down
(B,
firmly on
the plane side of the slab with the line (a, b) coinciding with the join
down
the centre of
plank on to the plane side of your slab, then with a fine, sharp knife remove, absolutely cleanly, all wood
outside this
the slab.
deal
Then with a sharp pencil or point mark the when this is done on both and maple, cut away all the external wood with
;
mark
are
this requires
much
will
care, for
re-
member you
back and belly
now
cutting the
outline
of your
finally
and as they
appear on the
the
beyond the marked outline to allow for finer cutting and subsequent finishing. When both outlines have been cut out, remove the remains of the steadying wedges (a, a, Fig. 31), being careful, in cutting them away, not to
little
bow
they will be exact to one another. In marking the outline thus finally, you will seethe use of cutting out the position of the sound-post in the
Now
with the
406
sound-post
belly
it
THE
will
will
VIOLIN:
HO W TO MAKE
which
IT.
slips,
be on the right, and in marking the be on the left. This is a point which must be attended to, for in a whole outline taken from a Stradivarius, the two halves will not be found to be in contra-facsimile to one another the difference may be infinitesimal, but none the less appreciable in so fine a work as a fiddle. It is one of the first worries of the beginner that he splits off pieces of the curves of the bouts whilst doing this cutting, owing to the curls of the wood. When this happens the piece must at once be glued on again, and
;
may
you have roughly planed the back and belly all and plane them pretty smooth (but without altering the shape), for the disThen take the tance of an inch from the edge. spring compass (a, Fig. 10), having one leg just longer inch, set the than the other, and opening them to longer leg against the edge, so that the shorter one
over, take a smaller plane,
-J-
When
of the
like
a gauge.
Draw
if
is
finished
When this
edges must again be gauged, this time \ inch from the plane side, and then with a knife cut 4-inch bevel from this line to the rough
finished, the
and button thicker. When has been done, and the edges all round both back and belly, present a uniform thickness of -J inch, except the corners and button, take a broad flat gouge and slope the rough arching to the gauge line,
side, leaving the corners
this
all
round back and belly \ of an inch from the edge, make it steady and even. Now open the compass to Tsj of an inch, and draw a second line inside the first, in a similar manner, -& from the edge. Now take an ordinary cutting gouge, having a curve reprebeing careful to
sented by Fig. 32, and very carefully cut a
or groove right round the back
little
trough
extending your slope about an inch from the edge round, according to the intended model of your
fiddle. Do this carefully round back and belly, always leaving the corners and button thickest. For
purpose the back or belly must be cramped on to the edge of the bench, so that half of it overhangs. When you have gouged round one half, turn it round and do the other, being careful to have your gouges very sharp, so as not to have to lean heavily on the work for fear of separating the centre join, or other calamity. This done, go all over the back and belly with the broad gouge, guiding your work as closely as possible with the model outlines {Sup., Part 17), but not going too far towards smoothing the surface all gouge marks may be left to the plane when the model or arching has been roughly gouged out. You have now finished with the gouge, and may turn your attention to the first planing. This is done with the toothed oval planes (Figs. 8 and 9), holding the slab with the hand against the body or bench, going over the gouge marks very carefully, holding
this
;
and belly, between these inch or so deep, and being two lines, not more than most cautious not to cut beyond the outer one, which must be left clean and clear. If by any mischance you cut through it, and the thickness of your edge allows it, re-mark the f line, and gouge a little deeper to save it. When this is done, take a flatter gouge, and carefully " melt " the ridge formed by the inner line into the arching of the back or belly. Fig. 33 shows the two stages of this grooving, which is meant to give the graceful raised edges which characterize a well-made fiddle, A representing the groove cut, and B the groove " melted " into the rise of the belly or back. Now go carefully round these new gouge marks with the small oval plane, and bring the entire surface as smooth as You you conveniently can with a toothed plane. must take care in these gouging and planing opera-
determined by the arching guides to any serious To a certain extent, it is of course impossible extent. to avoid altering them, so you must now go all over
it
of a
handsome grain
or curl.
Go on
fit
thus
till
and
is
3e
especially
careful in planing to
wood, for
them again with the guides, getting them as smooth and true as you can with the finest-toothed plane. You will most probably find it laid down in any works which go into the subject, that now is the time to purfle the instrument, and without doubt this is frequently done at this stage but we shall not purfle till the back and belly are glued to the sides for though it is easier to do it now, by doing it later on we can make it coincide with the sides, and correct any little irregularities of outline, which we could not do after
;
;
the purfling
is
done.
is
When
portant
a great beauty
of the back
in
a fiddle.
ready to scrape.
of the
This
it
is
Throughout the operations of gouging the arching and belly, you will find it a great advantage if you can compare your work with a true specimen of the great master's work, for then you can check the
necessary to be gone depends the entire character and beauty of your instrument if it is done carelessly or lazily, the marks of the planes and scrapers will be
operations
through, for on
IT.
407
rising edge
i.e., scooping out the back purpose you must screw a long squared beam of wood on to the bench, about 10 inches from the edge, and in front of it spread a
operation of fiddle-making,
belly.
and
For
this
folded cloth.
The
arched sur-
keeping with the beautiful Stradivarius patterns we have been working on up to now. However, remember Labor ipse voluptas omnia viucit. Let all your
scrapers be very keen
all
so as to afford resistance to
now
The Back.
round side round the sides and wherever necessary, so that there are no plane marks, gouge marks, bumps, or scratches anywhere visible on
all
by means
light.
Mark
the
that
it
be
corners A, A, A, A, in Fig. 34, which will be found to s At A', therefore, dig in the point of the coma'.
(but not deep
important
to
sit
in
a good light
light
during
this
operation,
i.e.,
where the
striking
edge
or marks.
In this operation you will finally adjust all the curves of the tables, so that the hollows melt into
the
bumps
is
of the model,
whole
is,
the result.
The
down a piece of your carefully left edges and corners. When by accident you do this, you must re-mark the -jVinch gauge line as set forth above, and try to reclaim your error but this must not be done unless you have sufficient thickness left round the edges by the first and second gougings.
will scrape
;
when you gouge enough to affect the final thickness), and opening the compasses 2^ inches, draw the circle c c, and then reducing them to i^- inches, draw the inner circle B B. The first rough thicknesses will be at A' inch, and at D, D J^ inch. These must be gouged carefully, constantly consulting the gauging callipers (Fig. 13), till this graduation is registered by the scale D as the callipers travel across from D to D. You had better gouge a single scoop right across till these thicknesses are obtained, and this gouged
passes, so as to preserve the puncture
over
it
The
thickness at present
gauged
now nor
in the
ensuing processes,
When
of
this operation is
some disinterested party), take a wet sponge or brush, and wet the tables all over, back and front, and dry them again at once with a cloth. You will now
see for the
first
must be trespassed upon in the slightest degree. Similar guide lines must now be gouged across the upper and lower bouts, across E E, deepening gradually from the gauge line till the thickness at the centre is inch. You now have three bands (or
guide lines) of the
across the fiddle
together, gouge
(for
;
(if it
exist)
is
now
of your wood.
The
object of this
procedure
to
away between
they
care-
show up any
cess
least defect in
Be
must be repeated
till
and not
deeper than them anywhere in their to cut into the edge (i.e., outside the
any defects on the surfaces of the table. This takes little time to say, write, and read, but you will find it is the most difficult and important part of your whole work. Now turn both tables over, and opening the spring compasses (b, Fig. 34), J of an inch, draw a gauge line all round the flat surfaces of the slabs, as shown in Fig. 34. This serves as a mark beyond which the gouge must not go, being left to include the edge, the sides, and the linings. Then, with a pencil, mark across the four corners and at the top and bottom the parts of the back which will be glued to the blocks, as shown in Fig. 34, marking them fully large for the present; these places again must not be touched by the gouge, but left quite flat. You are now going to commence what may be called the real
very
gauge
j%-
line),
blocks.
All the
;
wood
all
inch thick
-\
elsewhere
the centre
the
edges
will
lesser quantity of
wood
too thin, let the slope from the gauge line to the centre be quite gentle,
curve.
not an abrupt, downward done fairly smoothly, cutting down the ridges left by the deep gouge marks, as far as it is safe to do so. But do not go too far with
When
this is
* The outer circle connecting the four corners in the figure is merely drawn to prove to the reader that the points A are without it, by an optical delusion, really equidistant from A' the two lower corners seem further from A' than the two upper.
;
4o8
the gouge,
rapid, but
it
THE
is
VIOLIN:
is
HOW TO MAKE
IT
a bold weapon
safer.
the plane
not so
Take a fairly coarse-toothed plane with a convex plate, and go over the entire inside of the back, smoothing down the ridges left by
the gouge,
much
keen flat upwards, go round them carefully with file, to thoroughly clean them and the blocks. These last having the edge (as it were) of the grain
following
holding the plate sideways to the light, the only grooves and ridges visible are the little ones
till
exposed by their cutting, you must size them in the manner Spread a coating of glue all over the ends of the blocks, which will be fixed to the back,
:
left
first
in
this, their
the
fire to
get
Now
take a
when
round-edged scraper, very sharp, and proceed strongly to scrape the inside of the back all over, keeping inside the line you gauged round it and the place you
and
linings) rubbing
it
marked
marks of the plane are anywhere, and the inside of the back nearly approaches the smoothness of the outside. In
for the blocks, until the
no longer
visible
burnt and caked over the ends Now with a flat of the blocks in a brown mass. file rub off all this burnt mass (but do not file down the blocks), and the tops of the blocks will be found
so that
all
the glue
is
this operation
you
every mo-
to
ment,
they are as
with
be no longer rough and porous, as would be natural wood cut across the grain, but hard and smooth
follows
[i.e.,
/5
fc
inch
at the points D, D,
(i.e.,
The
another without any bumps, the wood being a shade stronger in the upper than in the lower bouts, and
similarly a shade stronger just
will
Unless this precaution were taken, the which you fix the back to the sides would sink into the blocks, which in course of This time would consequently become unglued. operation being completed, you must proceed to fit
as ivory.
single coat of glue with
is
done with
fiddle-
be
set
the edges
quite
and
screws (Fig. 37) in the following manner. When you place your ribs on your back you will find that the
must be
left
two do not
This
is
(or rather
do not appear
exterior arching
These, then, are exactly the correct thicknesses for a ?iew fiddle-back. When they are properly adjusted, take a good biting file, and bevel very slightly round the whole
was modelled).
wood
to
where the short one everywhere finish off this little bevel (which must only be else just enough to blunt the angle formed by the inside of the edge and the thickness of the edge) with medium
curves render
;
necessary, and a
flat
you must therefore place the ribs on the back and making one corner fit, fix it with a screw (Fig. 16). Turn the back round, and fit and Get the fix the opposite corner in the same manner. four corners of the ribs thus fitted on to the back by placing two screws at each corner, one on each side. N.B. Never fix a screw on to the corner itself, it will
regain
its
equilibrium
infallibly bring
it off.
Now
fix
sand-paper, so that
it
The edge left in scooping out 35. the back will by this time be pretty clearly defined by the dirt which accumulates on it (never being touched
pearance of A, Fig.
in all the foregoing operations).
by means of iron cramps fixed to the blocks the back and the belly ends of the blocks must be protected in the ordinary manner by means of little
;
Now
it
take a keen,
clean, being
pieces of
wood from
flat-edged scraper,
and
its
carefully scrape
planeness of surface.
Finish
flat file,
Your back
it
is
now
and
and bottom by thrusting a bradawl right through the top and bottom into the block, the hole made by which Many had subsequently to be filled with a peg.
habit of securing the table, to begin with at top
be found that it gives a note about two tones higher than the belly scooped out and the // holes cut, but without the bar. If you turn to page 211, Vol. I., you will see that the addition of the bass bar
will
modern makers
it
is
un-
raise
The back is now finished, and ribs. You will remember that
mould
;
take
them
cramp, as above described, and then if you wish to put in pegs it may be done as will be described further Then proceed to on, or not, as the fancy takes you. fix the ribs similarly all round by means of as many screws as can be set round them, as in Fig. 37 you will find twenty-six are required, four for each upper bout, three for each inner bout, and six for each lower
bout
;
all,
they run
may
size
of the
a danger of splitting
screws.
THE VIOLIN:
The
object to be attained
all
fit
HOW TO MAKE
ticketed with the
IT
name
of
its
409
right
maker
for prefer-
of even width
the
and unscrew
and
to
attained.
ence in Latin, but of course this is optional. The place for the label is discovered by temporarily putting the belly on, and looking through the left hand/hole
;
The
ribs
being thus
is
purpose it will not be necessary to entirely unfix them, but two or three screws may be taken off at a time, and that bit glued and refastened before going on.
the most visible place for the label is ascertained, and on this spot it may be glued firmly at once.
in this
way
of the fiddle,
Whilst considering the construction of the ribs I pointed out that if the join at the
Begin by taking
cramp
and three
;
screws
on each side
table knife,
take an old
it
and dipping
bottom is not all that might be desired, any deficiency may be hidden by means of a row (or more) of
purfling.
perfect,
i.e.,
If
the join
is
close, straight,
far as
down
the back, so
if
the operation
get at
then,
is
you can
;
better; but
thoroughly glued
marks
or
it,
or
is
if it is
if it
too
much one
those faults
fied
may be recti(withoutbeingashamed
in
:
of
the expedient)
the
and
all
refix
it,
and
following
manner
(such as
Take a
so on; go
made
and
wash away
or on the
groove,
at
exactly
right
outside,
to cover
there be found.
little
Your
by the
one
34.
shallower
the
whilst
will
you
drop
fix
another
so on,
and
both to
this is
DIAGRAM
strips of purfling.
These
ready made
always,
if
strings
may
necessary,
Therefore
fix
your glued
lightly, or
be broadened
and
surely.
When
suffi-
by hammering the
top.
time has elapsed for the glue to have dried thoroughly, take three qualities of sand-paper (the last being very fine indeed) and thoroughly sandcient
This ornamentation without impairing the fiddle, will effectually hide any fault which is apt to be found Cut off the ends flush with the belly at this point.
side of the ribs,
paper and smooth the entire inside of the ribs and back remember that in some centuries when your fiddle is opened, it will not be pleasant to think that the work you have been so careful over outside
:
wash
and with
it
dry, level
down
Now in
this line
is
slovenly inside.
label.
You can now put in your ticket or Every violin made ought, to my mind, to be
will serve as
tail-pin.
bore a small hole ( inch in diameter) which the commencement of the hole for the This is not finally cut till the varnishing is
4io
finished, but
off"
it is best to begin it now, as the belly you can guard against the drill splitting away bits of the lower block, which cannot be obviated or corrected when the belly is on. It must not be finished now, or the varnish running into it will make it messy and inconvenient to work with. Your back and sides
in
being
map
and
beneath
force.
may receive the impression of the Be most careful not to strike your
it
die, for
although
strength
will
when
is
rubbed,
would go
to pieces
under a
for
are
now
finished,
and
it
This rubbing
glue on the belly, for the body of your violin to be finished " in the white."
me
all
many
kinds of
{To be continued?)
and by it I have produced much sharper work than I ever obtained by stamping, screw, or hydraulic power and it is this which will enable both the amateur and professional to dispense with the founder and electrotypist, as well as with costly machines of every kind. When I state that I have
;
late
Prince Consort.
IV, EMBOSSING AND MOUNTING. E have now reached the important stage Being provided with a of embossing. sufficient number of the maps which you intend to emboss, and having traced and properly soaked them, as previously directed, lay upon a bench or table a piece of thick felt or carpet, doubled so as to form an even bed. Upon With powdered this place your die, face upwards.
starch, in a muslin bag, lightly dust
used Parian dies of various sizes, from four inches square up to four feet, without experiencing a single breakage, I think the reader will admit that their
utility is sufficiently
proved.
Note.
rubbing
tioneer's
The
to
best
method
of obtaining
power
in
is
both
its
plane sur-
face
and
its
depressions.
and cleared of all surface moisture, accurately upon the register points of the die, as already described, secure it by the paper slips at the edges.
hammer, or the spindle of your door-knob, and bring your hand, in that position, near your chest, throwing back your elbow, and rubbing " straight from the shoulder." Take especial care that your die always lies on a thick and even pad of felt or carpet. Remove your force cautiously. Examine the impression made upon the back of the embossed map. If not satisfactory in all parts, return the force, and give what is technically termed a " second blocking."
This
is
force that
taken to
make good
little
defec-
Dab
firmly
down
with a
ball.
After a
practice,
formed
into a
convenient
Lay the fractures along the lines of the deepest depressions of the map carefully in their places, and
repair them with white paper in the same manner Smooth all as you did in taking the first proof.
maps
hollow,
and
glue, or shellac in
in the
solution.
solid
to all
to
fill
embossing
the
down
neatly.
Pass
your
of
recommend
smoothly
paper,
who
same For
mount a
previously
damp
;
sheet
demy
may be made
;
accord-
pressions
dust
it
Press this down into the depasted. your gutta-percha " force," take then
but
if
the work be
sticking to the
on
the die.
this securely.
powdered starch to prevent it map, and fit it to its proper position couple of points will enable you to do The Cumbrian group and Snowdon^
good
;
substitute.
Soak
the
this to pulp, in
water
squeeze dry
size or
being deep, well-defined depressions, will serve best. Cliffs, If to these you add Beachy Head or Dover you will have a third tie, not to be despised. Press the " force " firmly down upon the map. Rub a piece
of soap over the back of your " force," and with the face of an auctioneer's hammer, or a porcelain knobbed
weak glue, well warmed, to mass into a paste of about the consistence
If
putty.
you think
fit,
modelling clay (whiting and flour) may be blended with this. Press the papier-mache firmly into your
embossed work, and smooth off the whole to a level. Take especial care not to leave a speck upon any
portion of the sea, or you will deface your map.
door-handle (the latter makes an excellent tool) rub with considerable power over the whole of the back of
Embossed maps
are
mounted
in
three ways
411
map
so that
may
adhere, remove
far preferable
but
when
used,
it
is
necessary to
or
floor,
and gently
lift
tack
down
in
the
work
Examine moun-
points
to
tains
ration.
No. 3
is
free
easily
have not been driven aside during the sepaIf any such accident has occurred, it may be remedied, as all is now damp and plastic, by
its
cheaper and easier to work, and ensures the perfect level so necessary to the correctness of relievo work.
In preparing the canvas mount, No.
obtain deal stretchers of the size of
proper place
If
when
all is
The drying
difficulty,
embossed map
is
a matter of no
little
ordinary
carpenter
will
by 21 and so on in
18
but
it
nevertheless requires a
attention.
proportion to the
corners
"twist."
size.
Be
careful not to
have the
ployed.
easiest,
work must not be hurried by placing it before a fire or beneath the rays of a hot On the sun. That will cause warping or shrinking. other hand, if allowed to remain too long in a damp A moderately warm condition, it will mildew or rot.
In the
first
place, the
room
is
needed.
The period
size of the
may be
B, C,
useful.
Let A,
(Fig. 15)
well-seasoned
21
and 18
With the same length b a (on slip a) as it is at b c make a fine saw-cut, a d, half through the deal, and Saw away the portion, a, b, c, d, strictly parallel to b c.
so as to leave exactly half the thickness of the slip
masses of relievo work. For small maps twenty-four hours may be named very large and bold subjects require three or four During the first twelve hours it is well to let days. the embossed work lie in a horizontal position, face upward, supported beneath by a panel of wood of proper thickness to prevent the map from sinking. When set, the relievo maybe advantageously stood on
according to the
;
remaining.
Do
shown
in the
edge so as to allow of
time,
its
shaded parts of the sketch. When found to fit accurately, glue them well, and with four brads at each corner, and a T square to regulate your work, bring them together in a frame as in Fig. 16.
This species of stretcher stands well. Procure stout calico, or thin canvas, if you prefer it, cut it into pieces, an inch wider all free from knots
;
back and
front.
num-
Our
enable you to deal with many in a small space. description of the process of embossing has
taken a long time, but let not the reader therefore suppose that the operation is necessarily lengthy or
tedious.
With
all
have,
round than the stretcher lay one piece of this upon a board or table, place the stretcher upon it, cut off the corners of your canvas or calico, as in Fig. 17, flush up to the stretcher. Run your brush, with good glue, around the back of your stretcher, and pull your calico firmly down upon it, securing here and there, if needed, by small tacks, not to be driven home, but removed when the glue is dry. Avoid putting glue upon the front edge of the stretcher. This method I have found to be easy and in every way satisfactory. With the calico or canvas strained upon the stretcher, let us proceed to mount our embossed
;
with one assistant, easily embossed and mounted ten copies of maps, 24 by 21 inches, within the hour.
to a quarter of an hour per copy, I would name, as the average time required for a moderately But if an hour, or upwards, be conskilled hand. sumed upon carefully working up proofs, or early "Accucopies, do not consider the time as misspent.
Ten minutes
racy
first,
speed afterwards."
embossing has been well done, the fractures on the tops of the hills and mountains will be scarcely perceptible, the paper beneath having been "blocked"
If the
map.
Paste the face of the strained calico thoroughly, back of the embossed work. With care and exactitude lay two corners of the mounted stretcher
also the
let it
gently
fall
into its
and hide the rents in the Most persons suppose on looking at a wellexecuted relievo map, that by some secret process the embossing has been effected without breakage of any True it is that suitable paper It is not so. kind. may be embossed to a considerable depth, intact. I have, in some species of undulating work, "blocked"
in
so as to blend with
map.
4T 2
to a depth of
is
rare
to
obtain
with very little practice, may be so effectually performed, as to baffle the nicest scrutiny.
quite dry, proceed to
in depth, perfect.
The expedient
and "block-
paper of
like colour
and
quality,
ing
" it
of the map, renders fractures things of small consequence to the constructor, yet
it is
and all Good, cheap pigments for this purpose, are to be had in moist water colours, prepared by Reeves and Sons, London, and sold in little tin pans at a penny each. In variety of tone, purity, and freecolour your relievo.
and who
shall
dom
the
in working, these
little,
unpre-
condemn
ly dry,
so innocent a reticence?
relievo to
Suppose the
be thoroughdust the
hard cakes
at
shillings each,
that
any perceptible
map
hair or
it
TO TAKE CALICO.
series.
which
may
men.
If size
Crimson Lake,
Burnt Sienna, Burnt Umber,
Gamboge,
Prussian Blue,
Roman
Brown
Ochre,
Pink,
by boiling parchment
cut-
Neutral Grey,
tings in an enamelled
Hooker's Green,
or well-tinned sauce-
Green Bice,
Sepia,
and four or
;.-'-'
five
camel-
scum
a thin
done.
rises,
andstram-
W- y
'
--J^v
:..,
ing
cloth
through
when
is
Isinglass
too
ex-
let
FIG.
15.
your
liquid
SLIPS
settle
from the crowthe swanquill, prepare your colour by taking a little of that, which you intend to use the pan first, from and mixing it with
in size
quill
to
down
and go very
of the
water
tone.
in
Stand aside
to dry.
Suppose we begin with crimson lake, and at Northumberland. Carefully cut around the boundary
of the county with
pencil
well
;
Note. The size should be reduced by hot water to the consistency of very thin cream, and be applied while warm. When dry, it will be found that most of the fractures on the embossed work have disappeared if any re;
your
colour,
small
charged
with
work
main, they
may
be repaired thus
of finely-
warm
gum Arabic
FIG. 17.
instead of size, as
causes
;
biittle-
keep sufficient colour on the part you are engaged upon, to preserve it in a thin float. When the county is completely covered, quickly take up the redundant colour with one of your large pencils, being careful to remove the little pools of colour which are
finished, pass on, with the
it, over a basin of warm water, while working. Go over the fractures with a camel-hair pencil dipped in the liquid starch. This is as easily done as the touch-
Hants, Isle of Wight, Gloucester, Devon, Pembroke, Merioneth, Lancashire. Do not throw away your lake, as it will be needed again presently, but in another saucer, mix burnt sienna, and
4i3
Hereford,
yellows
Wilts,
The
may now
Durham, Essex,
Carnarvon.
Sussex,
Monmouth,
Cardigan,
With greens,
" into the bottle containing the paper varnish and shaking well and often. If you allow it to stand in a moderately warm place for several days before using, it will be advantageous. The admixture stands well. I have before me works varnished with it, and which,
pin
Glamorgan, Denbigh, Isle of Man and light greys in Flint, Westmoreland, and Roman ochre in Cheshire, we have completed the colouring of the maritime
counties.
without the advantage of the recent discovery of " terapin," have borne twenty years of constant exhibition in
The
inland
divisions
remain.
find to
same time
uncased, and are now, after a simple sponging with pure water, as clear and bright as when first placed
there.
produce a distinct
in other points.
effect,
but,
own
Yellows.
Wilts.
Nottingham,
Salop,
Warwick, Beds,
BreckRutland,
Let the varnishing be done in a warm room, with doors and windows closed, or currents of air may cause your work to become " ridgy." Warm the map
and varnish
Lakes.
Leicester,
or
Huntingdon, Bucks,
former
vessel
it
is
perfectly dry
Pour a
suffi-
nock.
Greys
Greens.
very
Light Blue.
Derby,
Surrey, Cambridge.
to the
;
Burnt Sienna.
froth
work your brush well into it before applying map, but take care not to agitate it into then, commencing in the centre of the map,
sur-
The
part of Scotland
Roman ochre part of Ireland with pale green and France with pale sienna. It should be borne in mind that no attempt must be made to colour an adjacent county until the one previously tinted is perfectly dry, It must or the result will be a blurred boundary line. also be stated that very pale or very strong colours Whatever variation you should alike be avoided. may make in the foregoing table of colours, it will be
all
may
cause
it
to " clog."
and Should
such a dilemma occur, gently wash off the offending portion with a piece of clean rag dipped in turpentine, and after a few minutes varnish again cautiously. If
any defects are now observed, either in colour or fractures, they may be remedied when the first coat of
varnish
is
important to strive to
make your
tints
harmonise.
with opaque
colours to
require.
Greens and blues should not be in juxtaposition, but broken by the warm tones of lake and sienna, etc. After a little practice the constructor will be able to arrange his own palette independently when he will find that almost as great a variety of effects can be produced upon a relievo map as upon a picture.
colourmen are best adapted for this work. In about twenty-four hours a second coat of varnish may be given, and in fortyeight a third coat will give additional brightness and
Those sold
in tubes
by
artists'
The
than the
it
map
second coat of
first
;
of
and
after
Do not lay your varnish on too quickly, run into unsightly waves in drying. Three thin coats are far preferable in every way to two thick ones. After varnishing, cleanse your brush thoroughly
and labour.
or
it
may
a third coat, in every case being most particular not to miss a single point, otherwise the varnish, which has to follow, will penetrate, and create an ugly brown
in
turpentine.
in
Paste
and
size
brushes should be
with.
washed Our
will
suitable frame
mark.
namely, that of varnishing, remains. Provide yourself with a soft, round hoghair brush of about three-quarters of an inch in diameter, and with a sufficiency of ordinary paper or
last
greatly
appearance.
Rosewood,
fitted
The
operation,
gilt
may
be named as well
map
but
in
varnish
this
may be used
in its
simple
state,
I have found it to be very greatly improved, both hardness and brightness, by the addition of onesixth part of white hard varnish, and still further by
other models may, by the foregoing methods, be reproduced in papier-mache, and coloured to any taste.
sheet of fairly stout
demy paper
embossing
such
work, be
used
instead of the
This combination
is
best
This
is
414
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
lected anywhere in thickets and poor pastures, and can be fixed to the thatch by small buckles of twig. For the same reason that outside buckles are directed
of embossed maps may be seen readingroom of the British Museum. Vide, map catalogues Keller, Dobbs, Brion also on application to the librarians of the Royal Geographical and Geological Societies, London and at the School of Mines and Geological Museum, Jermyn Street. A glance at these will convey more to the mind in a few minutes than can be effected by the most careful
Many specimens
:
at the
summer-house of
;
still
larger
dimensions
is
given in Fig. 14 and this is so arranged as to be more completely secured from wind and weather, and
at the
description in a day.
end
to end, 12 feet
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
By
square.
Fig.
ARTHUR YORKE.
5 is
of this house
Ill, LINING
constructed
made much in
close
the
and same
way
that
is
to say, of
On
under side of
appearance.
requires
lining,
and a
an ornamental arrangement of pieces something like that on the outer side is supposed to exist. Round the windows above, a border of open-work, of rough oak In the centre of or other branches, has been carried. the house the position of an octagonal table has been
indicated.
been most in favour for this purpose is ling, or common heather. This is pleasing in colour, and has generally a
cosy effect.
thatch
:
It is
manner
of fixing
it.
main features the construction of the roof is same as that last given. The only point which can call for explanation, is the method in
In
its
much
the
layer of ling
laid at the
A strip the brush ends downwards to the wall-plate. of wood is then nailed tightly over the root-ends, from rafter to rafter. This fixes the ling in place, and then a second course is laid, overlapping it and conand so on till the whole cealing the strips of wood
;
which the ridge-piece of the porch is carried. From two rafters, which run from the top of the two inner pillars of the porch, a cross-piece is thrown at the same height as the top of the pediment. This supports the inner
space
is
lined.
be had, other materials may be used as substitutes. The ends of fir branches look very pretty, but after a time the narrow leaflets have a tendency to drop off. Perhaps a better substitute This is furze, which is to be obtained everywhere. dries to a light, but not disagreeable brown colour,
If ling is not to
The
walls of this
we may
consider
them as
somewhat
differently
constructed.
In a
and there
falling.
is
It
not the slightest danger of its spikes ever is, however, an ugly plant to handle, and
it
cheapness, larch poles, either halved or whole, are Yet it may so happen that the amateur
him
or that, for
other reasons, he
may
These above
halved
These materials can scarcely be said to possess a market value. Wherever there are heaths and commons, furze or ling are to be had for nothing. Their cost will be merely that of cutting and carriage. Failing any of these, a lining of moss will be Such a found pretty, though not very enduring. lining will want renewing about every fifth year. Moss is very liable to suffer from the visits of birds,
which
in
described,
poles,
regularly than
winter pull
it
about
in their
as so
much
col-
form an admirable ground for the inside lining of wood-mosaic, or bark, whichever may be employed. If the summer-house stands with its back to the boundary of the garden, or is completely flanked by shrubs, the outward appearance may be a matter of no moment yet boarded walls may readily be rendered decorative, and a good hold given for creepers, by nailing against them a random arrangement of
and
Moss may be
An
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
this purpose,
415
it
is
flat,
can be
is
attached with
trouble,
is ivy.
When
ivy
cut
we see a perfect netThese may be taken down in flakes of suitable size and when nailed in position have a highly grotesque and characteristic appeartrees, or old walls,
down from
work of
interlaced stems.
;
ance.
Rustic Mosaic.
work
is
important feature in rustic the mosaic of small split rods which forms
An
bark. Elm bark is best. It will be found to run easily from newly-felled trees, cut down when the sap is rising. It can be taken off in sheets of convenient size, and should then be laid on the floor of a shed to dry. It must be spread out flat, which will require doing with some care, as it cracks easily and bricks or something of the kind must be placed on it to keep it flat till dry. Flat-headed nails
making use of
it
in position,
and the
joints
between
of bark
the most finished lining for summer-houses, and covering for seats, etc. Of this I have as yet spoken only incidentally, and the present will be a proper
may
open, can be
with moss.
is
The appearance
thus treated
it
it
more
fully.
In this
beautiful
formed, in which the colour of the to play its part as well as the direction of the pieces. In this work the amateur of taste will find scope for
his ability in arranging the glossy
will not stand like mosaic. It will always have a tendency to cockle and crack, and when pieces break out it is not easy to mend it neatly. Perhaps its
greatest value
brown of the hazel, the silver-grey of the birch, and the white of the peeled willow, to the best advantage.
In Fig. 15
I
is for lining beneath seats or along the upper parts of walls, where it will be little exposed to injury, and where any defects will not easily be seen. In such situations the labour of fitting an intricate mosaic would seem thrown away.
Making
Walls
Wind-proof.
Wherever
our
which might properly be employed in the lining of the present summer-house. Fig. 16 represents a portion
of the decoration of a seat, well suited to
If fine rustic
roughly-constructed walls have chinks or crannies, they should be stopped with moss. The moss should
accompany it.
mosaic has to be worked on halved larch poles, the latter need to be fixed with much smoothness and accuracy. Simply considered as a ground on which to nail fine work, a boarded wall has undoubtedly the advantage.
be dried for a few days before being used, and should be tucked in as tightly as possible with a wooden
spud.
will
have
if
and,
the
work
is
fectly air-tight.
When
lengths,
it
rend them through with a hatchet. grain, such as willow, when free from knots, will often rend with something like truth for three feet or more. But, generally speaking, rending is a dangerous experiment. It is safer to run the rod through with the saw. The thin rods used
Flooring. In gravelly districts, where pebbles abound, a dry, sound, and lasting floor may be made with them. A bed of broken stones, coarse gravel,
or rubbish should
first
be
laid,
and over
it
a layer of
may
quickly be split with a sharp hand- saw. good of holding the stick tightly and in a handy position whilst it is sawn, is to knock together a couple of rough benches say about 18 or 20 inches high and in the top of each to cut a square notch, rather
method
be a couple of inches deep, and the pebbles may quickly be fixed in their places and brought to a level surface by tapping them with a mallet. More sand should afterwards be spread over and brushed in be-
tween them. If pebbles of various colours are to be had, an ornamental mosaic may be formed by disposing them in a geometrical pattern.
If the situation is
one
in
which there
is
any cause
and wooden wedges driven in beside it, it cannot stir. The u edges can be knocked in or out in a moment, whenever it is necessary to readjust
to fear that
damp
will
rise,
gravel,
mixed with
gas-tar,
may
pebbles.
the rod.
Some
shoes
;
punch should be used for driving home the brads employed to fix the strips in their places since, if this is done with the hammer alone, the bark is sure to be bruised, and the work disfigured. Rustic mosaic is both improved in appearance and rendered more enduring by being varnished. The cheaper kind of oak varnish is generally used. Bark Lining. Another method of lining summerhouses, and a much more expeditious one, is by
persons ladies, for instance, who wear thin object to pebbles, as being hard and cold. To
boarded
house.
floor
is
wood-pavement, at
may
be made of
Nothing
is
flat
;
at bottom,
will
and
set
in
sand
the
pebbles
but this
4i6
necessitate that they should
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
whatever
is
suggestive of
be quite equal
in length,
and
carefully laid.
quicker
be avoided.
method is them at the lower end, and to drive them into the
roughly to point
natural soil with a mallet
in this case,
Among
the
materials
summer-
houses,
any
It
is
little
ir-
regularity
in
length
will
not matter.
easy so
make them
form
kind of pattern.
well-known substance in garden decoration, virgin cork, was not Since, however, named. it is a material which is sometimes easily to be
that
and as
to
it
is
decidedly
effective,
ought
Still
some
no farther than to a floor of mere gravel, he is advised, above the first and second beds of broken stones and coarse gravel, to lay one of that cheap and ready
substitute for asphalt
to cork in
It
point of taste.
extent, vulgarised.
it
We
see
so frequently in feeble
that
it
the
mind
mengas-tar.
PANEL
and
OF RUSTIC MOSAIC.
ciations
it
connects
with "cockney"
tioned above,
fine
namely, of
associations.
Such asso-
Above
little
this,
hiding
fine gravel
Cork may
desirable to avoid in our rustic-work. be nailed upon the walls as a lining in the
is
must be
sifted.
This
will at least
same way as
warm
little
floor,
bark
it
will
if
it
and one
as
as
be better
the use of
dusty
dusty,
possible.
But
parts
it
where
not be
to
will
exposed
a a
much
and
will
wear
It
gravelled
floor
in
tear.
not
be
to
summerhouse
will al-
possible
get
it
in fine
flat
large
sheets,
such
ope-
as
the
r
board
as
a
for
rat o
can
material
flooring;
I
himself peel
and
here
may
tiles,
equally
objectionable.
Good
taste
demands
mony
with,
from newlyelm felled It trees. comes to us in pieces of irregular form and size, which will be more or less Some care and curled and warped. skill has, therefore, to be exercised in so fitting them together as to show no spaces of bare sawn timber between, for
RtJSTfC CARPENTRY.
if
4'7
ferneries
left
exposed
but
suburban
poles
districts,
where
between should be neatly filled with moss. This cork is the bark of the Quercus Suber, a kind of oak, which grows principally in the
Spanish thence to this country in great quantities for various purposes.
It
is
larch
for this
and even
of small
peninsula.
sent
covering the
structures to
to
exterior,
impart
work.
It
is
rustic
FIG.
14.
LARGE
With
this
bring
my
intervals
of
or
seven cork
years without
it.
injuring
Virgin
at
may
be bought
about
and
other
directions
for
by
cwt.
retail
some of
which
try
FIG. 17.
is
the
many
to
purposes
applicable.
After
all,
it
is,
rustic carpen-
however,
better
a material
suited
for
MOSAIC
DECORATION OF SEAT,
{To be continued?)
4i8
A
By W. W.
(
heard.
Then
that
the fault
must be
is
in
the
this
ascertained
Continued'from
Vol. 1'.,
page
406).
when on dropping
touching the note.
end and
again heard on
II, EXTERNAL
The
done
is
PARTS RESTR1NGING,
HE
appreciation which
regard to
my
me
to
make
a few
more remarks
proved unserviceable can be removed, so much the better, otherwise, hammer them well down with a punch. The occasion may be taken to see whether
there
is
same
fertile
direction.
The
I
subject
is
a very
one, and
skirting board,
it
any space between the flooring and the and if there is, to insert wedges to fill
is
up.
In
noticed,
among
other
the glass in
defects remediable
more
some
buzz.
by a sound known as a
window.
The
make
the
response to certain
me
to
confine
my
annoyance in this parwhich are to be found in the instrument itself. propose now to speak of a few causes that are
and cause much unpleasantness. A few brads or a little putty will at once remedy the defect in these Glass proves troublesome sonetimes in the cases.
form of gasalier globes.
certain to buzz,
If a
globe
give
is
cracked,
it is
and
if
it
should be replaced by a
new
its
The
principle which
if
internal buzzing,
root of
may
its
inharmonious
that of
accompaniment
gallery.
down
to
irregularity of vibration
and
this
is
exemplified by
j
most part produced by a part of the source of the noise being fixed, and part
for the
was
The vibrations were checked and rendered irregular by the vibrating part touching some other part of the
instrument, ordinarily not in contact with
it,
In such on candlesticks stood on the fall. should not rest on the metal, but should be separated from it by a little piece of cloth, or even calico, of whatever colour is most suitable.
case,
the glass
Another
fertile
source
is
"crockery."
Of late
that
years,
but so
Now,
a room
much reason
pretty
is
but,
unfortunately,
its
much
is
very
and,
whenever an
article in this
condition
is
in
base ground
flat,
consequently,
in
be a buzz, more or
article in
less
cup
in its
saucer
may
is
produced.
is
mantelshelf.
The annoyance
if
in this or
any similar
The
first
thing to be done
to
determine the
locus in quo.
By
have
I
its
base ground
shall
When
remedy
is
easy, quickly
and invariably efficacious. We shall take a few cases. Suppose the noise is found to exist only in the immediate neighbourhood of the piano, and that after
applied,
and the fender and fire-irons. If the vase is of metal, and the lid should be twisted slightly (which
or scuttle,
is
not seldom the case as ordinary servants treat and the other just
is
very likely to
result,
and
articles
of furniture or orna-
still
;
continues.
is
On
stooping
in
down we
;
find
increases
the cause
probably
the flooring.
left
We
shift the
piano a
the
little to
the right or
is
the noise
has ceased.
The
cause
One of Which ?
boards
the
have the same sound if the scoop does not Moreover, if the carpet, with fit tightly in its holder. a view to "turning round," is left full under the fender, there may be enough "spring" in it to emphasize any sympathetic vibrations that may be induced in the fire-irons. The carpet must lie per-
we
shall
We
fectly
It
flat.
On
would be easy
but with
state-
accompanied by the
being
struck,
nothing
A
ment of the
principle
not, I think,
419
which operates in each, it will anyone to apply the principle in other cases which may arise. II. The mention of candlesticks induces me to say a word on the subject of placing objects on the
be
difficult for
interesting, as indicative of something amiss somewhere, and they stand in much the same relation to the piano as wheezing or coughing does to asthma or
bronchitis
and as
it
is
sumptive's cough, so
forced on
sider.
is
it
pianoforte.
With many
and in other respects very sensible, the lid of the piano seems to be regarded as the sacred spot in the drawing-room, whereon sometimes in a glass case the household god, in the shape of the most valued ornament, is enshrined and I have seen in this post
It
to a musical ear to have a buzz, or this that I now proceed to conis not easy to describe, but once heard, it
is it
always recognizable. It has a soupgon of the buzz about it, but with that, something also of the ping one hears when a rifle bullet strikes an iron target. The
cause
case,
ornament from a wedding-cake surrounded by the photographs in metal and glass frames, vases, "a fine specimen of native workmanship sent home by my son in India," and other things standing immediately on the wood of the instrument, which had had an extra touch of furniture polish so as to give a good reflection. The one result of a proper reflection would be the removal of the object. But this seldom happens, for although there is no absolute
bride's wreath,
again irregularity of vibrations, but in this attributable to a defect in the wire, which is lack of homogeneity. Naturally, the cause may be at once localized, as the noise will be greatest when the
is
it is
defective wire
is
struck.
The remedy
is
new
string.
Restringing
when not in use, a resting we are met with this practical people who select such a spot for the
;
improper or unskilful tuning, or with age, so that the pins are not held in the original grip, or a wire break in playing or in tuning, perhaps because it has been eaten through with rust. If the piano keeps in tune a reasonable length of time, regard being had to the amount of practice on it, a change of pins may not be necessary to meet a
very slight loss of grip, but they must be replaced if the loss is comparatively great. To put in fresh pins
all
remove
even temporarily, from its pedestal and if they are persuaded to remove it for a short time, their equanimity is disturbed. Putting it generally, it is not good taste to put anything on the piano by way of decorating the room, and it is the height of slovenliit,
out,
and as
it
may
I
often be necessary to
remove some
First, the
part or other,
action.
ness to
make
out of
is deadened. The only a pair of candlesticks, but these should not rest directly on the wood, and their weight should not be more than sufficient to give them
piano
is
admissible exception
The
best shape
is
meant the apparatus which sets in motion and includes the hammers. Raise the lid, take out the front by undoing the little buttons, one at each end of the top, drawing it outwards at the top, and then lifting it from the pins in the upper edge of Next remove the fall as previously described. the fall. The action is now fully revealed. Before removing it see whether the dampers are separate. In some cases they are, in others they are part and parcel of the Between the stickers {i.e., the upright rods action.
this is
By
the base
is
large,
which
set the
hammers
in
gravity
short,
lies
low.
The ornamental
and with square flat bottoms, are good while lamps with light feet, and the oil-well lying high up, are about the most unsuitable. If the bottom of
tall
is flat,
it,
a piece of dark-
through the head of the damper, being secured at the other side by a nut, and the dampers have not an independent frame working in its own sockets, which will be at once seen by working the right hand pedal,
they cannot be taken out separately. Those that have such a frame will work in a socket at each end, or a socket at oae (the left) end, and a eyelet hole on a screw at the other. Turn the buttons and lift up, or turn the one button, raise that end and draw out of the eye. After removing the dampers turn to the Fixed to the inside of each end, and six or action. eight inches from the top, is a block carrying a button, which keeps in position the upright bars forming the ends of the action frame. Turn these buttons, draw
and
if
trimmed
neatest
and most
little
scroll
These act
" crockery."
III.
as
insulators
Another noise!
I
It will
be said that
must
treat so of them.
420
and then lift upwards and outwards bodily. The action is a delicate part, and at the same time heavy, and to remove it without an accident requires firmness and carefulthe upper part of the frame outwards
of the
The ness to exercise equal strength at each end. slip lying across the keys will be removed by unscrewing at each end, and the keys can then be raised.
Thoroughly dust the sides of the holes with dry finely powered chalk, replace the pin and hammer it well in to the proper extent, i.e., up to the head or blackened portion. The great points in repinning are to drive the pin
to the head-piece,
little
in perfectly perpendicularly
it
and
to drive
well
home.
The
The keys
time way.
are
all
numbered, and
it
will
save
much
in replacing if
base
As
fit
it is
of paramount imporit
To
substitute
new
very tightly,
will require
its
may
as well
little
well-directed strength to
Bichord.
IN
A PIANOFORTE.
is
now be
ness
is
done.
The
do
it.
this properly,
I
but there
nothing really
difficult in
part which
lies in
difficulty in
extracting them.
ciently to
To remove
a pin,
first
turn
it suffi-
This can most conveniently be done with a tuning key, but a strong pair of ordinary pincers may be made to do. When turned enough, remove the string and then extract the pin
with the pincers, turning to the
It is possible
I
left
and drawing
little
out.
help.
mention
this in case
is
new and
larger ones,
give a hold.
and only a very little help is needed to Take out one of those belonging to each
have suggested the removal of one pin to a note. This will be quite sufficient in the case of a trichord or semi-trichord piano, but care must be taken to remove corresponding pins in adjacent notes by which Thus I mean the pins bearing the ends of one string. in the accompanying diagram, which sufficiently shows the system of stringing, the pins marked (*) represent those to be removed. In a bichord both pins must be removed, as the one string furnishes the two chords. If the chalk answers its purpose, the string kept by the pins thus treated will remain in tune while
the other strings are affected.
The
difference will
RUBBER STAMP MAKING.
first
421
become sensible by a vibration being audible on the one note, and the remedy will be proved by the difference in pitch on damping of the wires in succession,
HENRY
J.
MARTIN
If
Co., Cork.
the
and striking the note if the difference between number of vibrations of each string is sufficient to
II,
be separately appreciable. Prices of Pins. There are six sizes of pins made. A complete set of the size ordinarily used, which is known as o 2 A, costs is. 8d. The largest size (0000 A)
HE
now
once pro-
If the
stamp
in
is 2s.
6d. a set.
is
a dozen Hughes,
charged.
37,
For a smaller number than a set, These prices are those of Drury Laii, W.C.
4d.
W.
hand be a very particular one, or if a large number are required all to be cast from the plaster and of one pattern, it is usual at
,1,
this stage to
Restringing.
in the wires.
fixed,
we have
:
to put
for a
Of
double
solution of ordinary
shellac
spirit
gum-
|,...,IM|,.
*,..,
;,;,
v
the first-named
being for the lowest bass notes. All the covered ones are fixed singly each chord is a separate string. The plain ones are fixed one to a note in a bichord, or the bichord portion, and three to two notes in a trichord.
;
'
and leaves
The
is
shown
in the
Care must be taken that the wires properly and are caught by the proper pins, which are intended to shut off the part not intended to vibrate from the free part on which the hammers act. The wire is then drawn through the
diagram.
traverse the bridges,
little
making
terial
that
fragile
maFIG. 3.
PLATE.
is
quite
unnecessary
in fact,
it
is
rarely,
if
ever,
employed
to last for
being
such as daters,
half a lifetime.
etc.,
roll),
It is
and given a turn to secure it from then tightened up with the key and
will
now
is
taken, replaced on
its
finally tuned.
It
its
turn,
fastened to
plate,
and above the bridges are pieces of braid, flannel, or listing running in and out of the wires. These are very necessary, and serve to deaden the part of the wires beyond the bridges. Just below the line of wrest-pins will be, or ought to be, seen figures. These indicate the size of the wire used, and for all the notes between any two of these numbers, the size indicated by the lower is the one to be employed. Prices. The wire, when taken in bulk, is sold by the pound, for which weight the price is 2s. 6d. for either
Take two
india-rubber,
which
of the
we
stamp
you require, and place them, one on top of the other, on the cast, rubbing
the side next the plaster,
piece, with a
;
The
latter
kind
is
by the
double covered.
will,
I
and the back of the upper little French but be extremely chalk careful that none gets in between the pieces. Over
the rubber or a
FIG.
4.
PRESS.
trust,
enable
or
defective
string,
the top-piece put a piece of paper, about the size of Over all place the plate, little larger.
Fig
with
3,
way
the edges
with the pins turned downward, and square Place this of the frame, Fig. 2.
the press, Fig.
4,
mischief which
notice as
has been specially brought to my in country places. In a future paper I hope to say a word or two on removing, and preventing the formation of, rust in piano
"pile'' in
carefully,
keeping the
met with
edges square, and the centre of the pile directly beneath the screws, which you may tighten a little, to keep its component parts from moving about.
strings
sion
and also to give instructions for the converof the ordinary soft pedal shifting action into
;
the
delicate celeste.
{To be continued.)
The vulcanization of the rubber, as it is called, may now be proceeded with. It is just as well to understand the "why" and "wherefore" of this process, as it may be truly said that more time and money
422
have been wasted in this part of the manufacture, than in any previous part of the process. It consists, then, in applying heat to the india-rubber under pressure, in
same
in
a box, with
its
manipulation.
such a degree as to expel the sulphureous gas which permeates it, and no more. This has the effect,
of turning the colour of the caoutchouc to that
The piece of brass is taken, and, by means of the square shank turned on it, forced into the hole in the handle the rubber is then, after the edges have been
;
firstly,
scissors,
which we are
it
all
so familiar; secondly,
gum
of rendering
beautifully elastic
and
pliable
and
thirdly, to permanently retain the impression which has been imparted to it. The success of the operation depends in a small measure on the skill of the
operator,
one or two hours. In the case of an oval or round stamp being required, an oval is bought of the size chosen, at a dealer in printer's materials, and being type high, and the centre and edge being left blank, or "pierced for
will
be dry
in
It is a mistake to endeavour to procure it an ordinary rubber dealer's they are ignorant of the use for which it is required, and thus may supply
employed.
it
and wedged
in their
at
places by
little
wrong kind
or
if
utterly unsuited fo r
press,
frame, plates,
;
fire,
or a gas burner
firm employs a
which-
Bunsen 2, which, in practice, will be found to be the long run the absence of soot and
;
My
more stamps one operation, the wording of each being arranged as required, and the types put into the chase alongside of one another, so that name stamps, ovals, square stamps, and round will be next-door neighbours. A plaster cast is then taken in the usual manner, as if only one stamp were being made, and a similar cast in india-rubber the various stamps are then cut and separated from one another with a pair
In practical business, half-a-dozen or are
made
at
of scissors.
difficulty in
which
may be bought
at
most druggists
for
my
them
at
6d. or 8d.
two or three minutes piece of cloth between the fingers, gradually, carefully, and evenly screw down the press, at short intervals, until the four pins on Fig. 3 penetrate right through
the layers
of india-rubber,
lid, 3s.,
;
and
is
4s.
size
the
smallest
suitable for
name
a large oval.
and
at last rest
on the
upper edge of the frame, Fig. 2. The press is now quite tight, and the screws can no longer be used and now the operator can examine the rubber, a thin edge of which will be exposed between the plates As soon generally in about fifteen minutes as the rubber turns to a blue colour, it is a sign that the vulcanization is complete and the whole apparatus must now be removed from the source of heat, and, with the parts
;
Endorsing Inks, any colour, with patent stopper, per dozen, up to i-oz. bottles, 5s. 6d. Indelible Marking Ink, 4s. per dozen. Brass Mounts, any size not exceeding 2 inches in length or diameter, 4s. per dozen, up to 2J inches, 5s. Black polished handles, with brass ferules, bored, 2s.
3s.
per dozen.
still
together,
it
left
to cool
or, if
expedition
is
necesit
Monograms have to be specially designed and engraved on wood, from which a plaster cast is made. As this is beyond the average amateur, my firm have made arrangements to supply the rubber of any
two-letter
sary,
may be
still
When
in
;
is
monogram
as
quite cold, unscrew the press, take out the frame, with
the rubber
it,
and
the
same way
monograms.
The
prices vary
they
may
only a chance.
When
according to the intricacy of the signature. My firm will, with pleasure, supply the amateur
with a single sample box, ink, mount, and handle, for
is. 2d.,
I
separated, you will find that you have produced an absolutely faultless fac-simile in vulcanized caoutchouc
of the original leaden type you used
;
post free.
I
in other words,
think that
my task,
Rubber Stamp.
described
I
as plainly as
The only thing that now remains to be done is the mounting of the rubber on the brass, fixing the same
could.
I
My
chief
simplicity,
I
trust
have
left
ought
to
MOVING MODELS FOR BAZAARS.
explained.
If I
42 3
have erred
in this
way, a
letter to
my
will
it is no uncommon thing for a group of people to wait a considerable time within seeing dis-
necessary, as
in.
If the
Those who have purchased our outfit and they are many will confer a great favour on me by kindly
it
would tend to diminish the receipts considerably, so that we must conduct our show on Artemus Ward's principles, viz., " You can pay without going in, but you can't go in without
sides
were
all
glass
it
=~=4=z=-o_
By DONALD BBDE.
paying."
ture,
This can
ROP
be probably cut from some illustrated periodical, the outline of a windmill is so familiar that it is scarcely worth while taking up valuable space in describing it in fact, one could be purchased at a toy shop ready
will work/'
call to
My
mind, as they read the above, many specimens of automata bearing the above legend, which have excited their curiosity and admiration, if only from the powers of mechanical contrivance displayed in their construcand while recalling their apparent complication tion
;
will
be inclined to consider them quite beyond the Doubtto construct the entire
made, and a hollow card-board copy made from it assuming this matter to be settled and that the axle of the wheel or sail is about J of an inch thick, we will go on to preparing the mechanism. A train of wheels suitable for the simple purpose of moving the sails of our windmill by means of a spring is what we want, and this will cost less in the form of an " eight-day timepiece movement," than it would to have a less number
;
of wheels cut.
mechanism, or train of clock-work wheels, which form the motive power of these models, would very severely tax the abilities of most handy amateurs, but this is by no means necessary, as the ordinary movement of a clock can by a little ingenuity, and the exercise of a little patient labour, be adapted to the purpose in view r equipments which will be quite easy to any "handy man," who can do a little soldering and will enable any one desirous of contributing an attractive and remunera-
Messrs.
This movement can be obtained at Mayer and Son, 27, Aldersga/e Street, E.C.,
5s.
and
will cost
6d.
It
will consist of
the works,
latter of
the two
If we examine this movement, we shall see that, by turning the long hand round, the other parts of the mechanism do not move with it and by looking
;
a yacht
and a reproI
duction of
at St.
my
exhibited
Pancras Industrial Exhibition all of these to be set in motion by a coin being placed in the
receptacle.
will now set about making up the mechanism of one of the easier and most simple of all, " the moving windmill," which, when finished, will bear the
We
legend at the head of this paper, and go merrily round, as the " wind is raised " by dropping a penny in the
mention, that will cost about 8s. We a box about 18 inches high by 12 inches long by 10 inches deep (Fig. 1), with a horizontal partition 6 inches from the bottom, with a cash drawer at the right hand end. This box is closed in on all sides except the front top part, which is of glass this is done so that the effect is seen only from the front an arrangement which the exhibitor will find absolutely
box.
I
may
where a part of it remains at rest. We must now solder these two parts together, which we' can do without removing any part of the clock-work. Just file a large spot bright, and with a copper bit, or a blow-pipe, "sweat on" a little solder; this will make the whole rigid, but will " do" for the clock as a timekeeper. The escapement, which is at the top right-hand corner of the movement, is of no use to us, so turn the spring on one side which holds it in its place, and remove it the clock-work, being now wound up, would run down rapidly, having no check. We shall now want a pulley-wheel, B a wooden one, such as is used by Venetian blind makers will do about 1 J inch in diameter. This must have a nick about -j inch deep, made in any part of the rim, and be fixed on the spindle of what was the position of the minute-hand. This size wheel will leave us room
;
shall require
We
will
now mount
the
movement on
to
is
we have
do
to set
it
in motion, is to tie
of
will go.
The
speed
may be
424
mill at such
offer
more
or less
Of
quire
resistance to the
some
variation
in
the
application
of
the
;
We
tin.
now want
which
starting, A,
made
of
of v ire
mechanism, but the principle is the same in all and this has been explained, I hope clearly, and in
such a way that
readers
it,
Bend up a piece
all
my
form of a scoop, and solder to one end of the wire, and place an uptin in the
can
understand
the
in
description of
that
in
plan
must
be
followed
small
tube;
mill.
another
that
are
other
means
for
collecting
on a scoop end
as
pivot.
The
be
the
should
much
other
longer
than
pence at bazaars. For example, savings' banks for children might be made on this principle,
for as
of
persons
charitable
more
as
to
be a
the
little
readily
for
eased of they
money
heavier than
end.
scoop
when
wound
being
the
slit
change
It
for their
money,
supin
which
is
reasonable to
that
pose
like
children
manner would be
willing
to
more
-MODEL AND CASE COMPLETE.
time
part,
motion
until the
'
with their
to
pence
for
a
as
accumulate
FIG.
2. SHOWING TOP OF CLOCK MOVEMENT WHEN PARTS NOT REQUIRED HAVE BEEN REMOVED.
Tk
FIG.
THE 3. SHOWING INTERIOR OF BOTTOM OF CASE. DOTTED LINE SHOWING THE ACTION OF THE LEVER WHEN THE COINS ARE DROPPED IN ALSO CORD LEADING TO AXLE OF WINDMILL FROM THE WOODEN PULLEY.
;
former
position,
in,
when
the
upright
piece
of
tin,
savings,
if
dropping
sails will
stops
the works.
The
pulley being
the model
started.
The model
and net
work
192
work whenever they put by a penny. I offer this as a suggestion, and if it is adopted and works well in one family only, I shall have done something towards the encouragement of personal thrift.
(To
be continued?)
16s. in so doing.
XX.
OF
CO.,
B.C.
THE
^ TTT^
to
AZALEA" M0TEL-BOARD,
IN
FRETWORK. By Wm.
A.
FOX.
(;:;;;:;;:::;:;.
sgtettM
4o
I
found
at
it
means
my command.
(For Illustrations,
see
Supplement
tj
this Part.)
Amateur Work,
Mirror," the
Next I turned my attention to the rabbets, into which the panels are to fit. With a rabbeting plane, I worked the two long pieces, and four 1 5 inch pieces on one side only, as in Fig. 1, a but the four 8^ inch ones on two sides,
;
who
for
is
making the
" Lily
as in Fig.
I,
b.
In
September, 18S2,
it
occurred to
me
would be of great assistance in replacing the fringe or needlework border usually found beneath an overmantel. Having succeeded to my own satisfaction in
that fretwork
Here,
chisel
again,
cutting-gauge and
will
come
IG. 2.
OR
panels, in place
venture to lay
my
designs before
my
fellow-readers, in the
to
useful
The
wide,
easily
would
both ends of the Si inch pieces, and the tenons on the ends of the remaining pieces.
be a piece of furniture
The
joints into
which
all
made
to
suit
The
perhaps require some explanation, and this I have endeavoured to give in the diagram, Fig. 4 {Sup), where A represents the 5 foot piece, c the 15 inch, and B the
8i inch upright one.
tenons, c and a, are cut,
sides at each
over 7 inches
good deal about 1 inch square, 9 feet by 7 inches of thin deal board such as is used by picture-frame makers, for backing their frames, and
a piece of deal,
firmly.
The remaining
and
and scarcely need any detail. done carefully, the glue-pot and a
Having obtained my wood through the assistance of a neighbouring timber merchant, and Messrs. Churchill and Co., of 2 1, Cross St., Finsbury,E.C, I commenced
by making the deal frame, which, to
tion, facilitate descrip-
few taps of the mallet, with the try-square near at hand, to ensure right angles, and the frame is ready Then with a fine saw and sharp chisel I cut away-a
square inch, about 3 inch deep at the four corners of each of the three frames mentioned before, and re-
may be considered to
be
made up
of three picture
frames, a long and two short ones, put together at right angles to one another. These I shall speak of as the * front frame," and the " side frame." When
purchasing
my
deal battens,
them by a square inch of \ inch imitatio I had cut five holes to represent the cross shown in diagram Fig. 1 (Sup.) The frame was then finished by staining with Stephens' Oak Stain, to the tint of old oak, and when
place
ebony, in which
two
5
pieces
feet
about
10
for the
soak
in,
and four
long.
means
grease.
of a
modicum
of elbow
inches
Having planed proceeded with a marking-gauge to produce the four grooves required to give the fluted appearance on the front of the frame ; having made these grooves fairly deep, and at equal distances, with a piece of sandpaper, I rounded
Finally
fixing
it
drove deeply
in
Of
course,
neces-
shall
and finished 'hem off. To one who is fortunate nough to possess one of the planes made for the purpose, this part of the work would be much easier
;
them
later.
This little joinery, though simple, may seem somewhat of an obstacle even to a practical fret-cutter,
426
with small taste for carpentry and joinery. To him I would suggest the services of the nearest joiner, who will supply the deal, and make it up foran outlay of from six to ten shillings. He can then commence at this stage of the work, when having my frame in order I fitted in the panels, and deal backing. After satisfying myself that they put together well, I took out the oak, and cut it up into lengths of 14 inches each, and began work with the fret-?aw. To do this well, and to minimize labour, I put four
of these pieces together with small screws, pasted
linseed
laid
oil,
this
time to soak
in,
on a very
in giving a
Of course, after doing this, I had to be sandpaper should not be required for the surfaces so treated, and this I did by laying the panels,
framework.
careful that
when
my
paper pattern on
in the usual
I
that,
were thus placed These had the unvarnished back upwards, and on this I pasted my
except the uppermost one in each
pattern.
set.
way.
chance of
far truer
breaking, and my lines are and cleaner than they would be in such a
as
cut
my
monotony
of repetition.
The remaining
Necessarily, this method gave me two panels on which the design was reversed, rendering them useless for the front frame, where one wants the design to be continuous. But they do very nicely for the side frames giving a similarity of design at the corners, which I considered a somewhat acceptable variation. The mantel-board now has a somewhat box-iike appearance, which I overcame, at the suggestion of a
;
With regard
it
may
be
friend
who
as well to mention that, unlike the generality of patterns, and like those of the " Lily," the design is the
who
is
a sort
into holes
made
to
and by turning four knobs, (Sup.), the pegs of which I glued receive them under each of the
finished,
I
The
I
now
applied the
put
them together
in the plank,
same order
;
in
which they
this, I
were
grain,
and exactness
behind
put a
Various
may do
;
the worker
polished
rosewood would, doubtless, have a very good effect, and greater display may be obtained by gilding the I used velvet edges of the leaves and flowers. because the other fretwork ornaments in the room are mounted on it this very fact may be the reason why some would prefer the novelty of a wooden background. Behind the velvet came the deal backing mentioned before, and I found it greatly assisted the
;
when
I
there
fire in
I
the grate.
Finally,
and if this is done carefully along the edge, there is no fear whatever of the material fraying out by use and wear. There are various means used to secure a board
top of the mantel-board
j
its
mantelpiece; but the one I have found most, serviceable is that in which a piece of wood of this
to the
This was
out dust.
all fixed in
shape where
is
it
screwed
at
have shown in Fig. 5 (Sup.), where a section through the frame is given. The interrupted, shaded line, represents the fretwork panel, next comes a dark line, which stands for velvet, and a shaded line behind this does duty for the deal backing the usefulness of the brads being rewarded by including two of their number in the diagram. The light colour of new oak not being to my taste, before cutting up the wood I rubbed it over on the
of things
I
;
The position
ing the screw, the end A is driven firmly up against the mantelpiece, and holds it firmly against the mantel-
board.
As
in
have chosen
I
for treatment
my
design
is
the azalea,
to
Mantelbe somewhatl delicate in appearance, but with average care it can! be cut with success, and presents a handsome ap-jj
sake,
designated
It
Board.
may appear
427
THE EDITOR.
When
finished,
it
was
a pretty house to look at and replete with every conII, THE FITTINGS,
I
OUTWARDLY,
doll's
the details
house,
for in
must speak in the present paper, my first I was compelled, of necesconfine myself to the carcase of
it,
he had forgotten to provide for the stairmention this because I daresay that some readers who have noted the points I selected above for special comment will think that I have forgotten the door. This, however, I have not clone. I intend to
whole
affair
I
case.
sity, to
making
so
I
it.
Indeed,
want of space
carcase
before
I
to say as
itself,
enter
my
subject.
My
made in the carcase for the quasi admission of light, but not ot access to the interior, under the general term of windows, and it will be found presently that one of the windows on the ground floor is fashioned so as to do duty for a door or a window, according to its position when the house is
treat of all openings
readers
have noticed that no reference was made to the blocks which are shown in Fig. 2 (page 335), as being attached to the bottom boards of the compartments, namely, the board or floor A B c D to the left, and the board A' b' C' d' to the right. These are useful in many ways, for they not only impart firmness and stability to the structure when attached to the bottom boards with screws, but they also serve as pieces on which may be nailed thinner pieces, so as to form a plinth to the
house, and to conceal small iron castors, placed within the slips,
closed and open, and to the whim or fancy of the owner, like the article of furniture described by the
poet as being
A bed
I.
The Windows.
there
being six in front of the house and two on either side. Let us take the side windows first, as these are sham
one in each corner of the under surface bottom board of each main compartment. It is almost needless to remark that the compartments should fit closely and with accuracy when the house is closed, and to ensure this, the edges B L P Q c of the left hand compartment, and the edges, B' l' p' q'c' of the right hand compartment, should be planed up with
of the
windows, and are therefore easier to deal with than Let us suppose that the area of glass that is exposed to view in the side windows is, in the upper window, just half the height and one-fourth the width
the others.
of the exterior portion of the casing representing the
room room
that
it
is
supposed
are equal,
to light. Thus, on the supand breadth and depth of the the four lower rooms being taken
if
externally to be cubes,
in length
be
six parts
a trying plane.
Let us now proceed to the fittings and ornamental work about the house, and in this we will endeavour
to follow
glass
The must be cut a little larger than the size of the supposed window; the back part must be blackened or
or height
and three
parts in width.
some regular
An
imitation
on the various parts in the sequence in which it seems most desirable to handle them. To understand the modus operandi thoroughly, it will be as well before proceeding any further to examine Figs. 3 and 4, in
way down
if
window
may be added
tion
preferred,
and the
front elevation
The form
will
of the carcase as
by a framing of thin wood rabbeted on the inner to the thickness of the glass. The method of this is shown in Fig. 5, in which the tinted portion a A, represents the glass, extending on 'all sides
edge doing
to the dotted line
described in
my
first
paper
be easily recognized
about half
it
way under
the rabbeted
when completed,
pair of lid-less
casing,
bbbb, by which
is
unmeaning looking
boxes set on end and linked together by hinges, into the semblance of a neat little cottage or so-called
villa,
being nailed to the box with small French wire nails, The window is finished or glued down, as preferred.
sometimes to be met with in the suburbs of London and the larger country towns. The points on which our few hints are desirable, are, 1, The Windows; 2, The Chimneys ; 3, The Roof; 4, The Parapet to the Roof ; and 5, The Quoins or ornamentation at the corners of the house and running from top to bottom. There was once a man by the way, he must have
by nailing or gluing down a piece of wood, triangular in section, as shown in the illustration, and having the ends bevelled off as drawn at the top of the rabbeted casing to form a kind of coping above the window, and a rectangular piece at the bottom to form the
window
sill.
form supports
order to give a
to the
428
window.
strip of
small
The appearance
glass
is
in
wood, c, is placed across the glass in order to give the appearance of a sash window formed of two large panes. The ends are secured by being let in under the sides of the
casing, as
tion at
shown
at
x and
v,
sill
being
shown
in
x.
This
dows
<t&
of the structure.
shown
in sec-
The
next thing to be
is
in Fig. 6.
The
is
considered
paration
the
pre-
top of the
window
cir-
of the front of
FIG. 7.
REGULATION
MIIillllllll!llllil!l!l!llilll.liii!lii;illllllj|l
FIG. II.
|K|
[|
LING AT X Y IN
FIG. 8.
PLAN
M
OF FRONT AND )_ PART OF ONE SIDE OF SILL SHOWING ATTACHMENT TO CASING.
FIG. 12.
PLAN
FIG. 10.
LARGER SCALE.
each compartment
for the
cular in
form, but
it
is
windows
in
the front cf
must be
practicable, to borrow a
FIG.
The
phrase, in so ENLARGED PLAN OF BAY WINDOW, SHOWING MODE OF 9. far that they will afford FASTENING SIDES TOGETHER AND ATTACHMENT TO FRONT. a view of the interior of the rooms, although they give a lighter appearance to the window. There is an are not made to open and shut; for this would alternative method of making the window which may
in the
shown
drawing.
theatrical
introduction tends to
be preferred by some amateurs, and that is to make a recess or hollow in the side of the box of the thickness
of the glass, so that the glass
may be dropped
into
it,
its
entail an amount of labour and contrivance which i [ would be scarcely worth while to take, and which could be better managed if the windows were
429
shown by the black
lines
as
casement
windows,
opening
on
the
of
trie
Apertures must, of course, be cut in the front part boxes that form the compartments, in order to
be taken out in the firstrooms, but in the upper corners only of the lower
The
front
the openings
easier,
These holes will render the introduction of by means of which the parts are to be cut away, a very simple and easy matter. When this has been done, and the sides of the
openings.
the key-hole saw,
and therefore will be the better plan for the amateur to follow. Some regular plan must be hit on
little
wood
or cork, so as
FIG.
3.
FRONT
FIG. 4.
SIDE
ELEVATION.
forming the openings, and no better one can be adopted than that shown in Fig. 7, in which always remembering that the external front of each of the principal rooms is a perfect square, if the redundancy of the expression may be pardoned the front of each
for
rabbet round the openings cut for the first-floor windows just deep enough to receive the glass, and bring
its
of the house.
room is subdivided into sixteen smaller squares, as shown by the dotted vertical and horizontal lines traversing the elevation. The shaded parts of the diagram show precisely what portions are to be cut away. The cutting is easily managed by the aid of a stock-and-bit and key-hole saw. Having marked the
be made
for the
This done, a framing or casing must windows, as described for the false
side-windows, with this exception only, that there is no occasion to make any rabbeting round the inner
43
This rebate may be easily edge of the opening. formed by cutting a line with a sharp-pointed knife about T\ inch from the edge of the opening to a depth equal to the thickness of the glass, and then removing the wood between the line thus cut and the edge of the opening with a sharp chisel. The casing round
the window, the
it
in.
8, it
may be
said
and the brackets are same manner and of the same and the windows themsize as for the side-windows selves are divided, as it were, into six large panes by means of two vertical and one transverse slip halved
sill,
the coping,
made
in precisely the
and
L,
c,
and D
L,
front boards,
into
their
The
brackets
may be
to present a
A E F B, and C a H D, the shells of the bay window and French window respectively, and the space between the middle and outer lines, the section of the moulding or plinth which is finally nailed on as a finish round the front and sides of the
doll's
but
in
house.
The
must not be thicker than the casing itself, which should be T35 or \ inch in thickness and other pieces should be added at the lower parts of the sides of the casing, resting on the upper part of the sill, as shown in the drawing. These are all minor details, which may be
;
separately,
and
fixed to the
when completed.
The inner
edge of the
maker but
;
it is
desirable
opening of each shell must correspond with the edge of the aperture against which it is to be placed, so that the entire edge of the shell will butt against the front of the structure to which it is to be fixed, partly
and some of the methods of treating them that may be conveniently adopted and
followed.
by gluing and partly by thin wire nails, or rather by nailing and gluing combined. To make the shell for the bay window, take two
We
which
it
attic
win-
and
wood half-inch thick, or of the same thickness as the bottom boards, whatever they may be I say half-inch because this is a sufficient thickpieces of
and
it
may
be
In cutting
away
for strength's
maybe
away
edges of the bottom boards exposed at A B and C D, in Fig. 8. To afford a base for the bay window and French window, as we may call
will leave the
it
board and the top board a little thicker of the same shape as A E F B, and use these at the top and bottom of the shell. The projecting rectangular side
A B
fit
between
must be
fixed to the
position at
slips that have been already screwed to the bottom boards on their under surface, of the shape indicated by A E F B, and C G H D, and the top of these blocks must be flush with the upper surface of the slips. The fixing may be done by aid of dowels or
the bottom, and the corresponding projecting piece in the upper board will enter between the sides of the
opening opening
by means of screws passed through the slips from behind, and entering the inner edges, A B and C D of the additional pieces, drawing them closely and tightly It is desirable to unscrew to the edges of the slips.
the front slips, in order to obtain greater facility for
and butt against the top of the to be fixed by gluing and nails, or thin screws driven in an upward direction through the top piece and into the end of the boarding above
at the top,
to
which
it is
it, when completed. The formation window and the method of putting it
of the
together,
bow
and
seen
attaching
it
may be
more
clearly
from Fig.
fits
9.
them on
(represented by
may as
which
tightly
out here that holes for the reception of the heads of the screws, and indeed, of
all
ef,gh,kl,
represent the
bit, and that the holes for the upper part of each screw, between the head and the thread, should be made easy, for it is the pressure between the head on one side and the grip of the thread of the screw on the other, that draws and holds the pieces together. If amateurs would remember
and front of the casing of the window, which are glued and nailed with wire nails to the pieces that form the top and bottom, as already described. To connect the sides and front still more closely, saw
kerfs transversely to the edges of the joints
may be made, one near the top, one near the bottom, and another about the middle, into which slips of mahogany
431
wood may be driven, after being first glued. The skewed screws at M and N show how the shell of the windows may be attached and drawn close to
of showing alternative
the front from the inside of the house, and O, P, Q, are wire nails or screws by which the edge of the board is
attached to the
slip
way
the
framing of the panels being stop-chamfered. The same also applies to the French window. This door-window is made in the same way as the bay window, but it is, if anything, easier to accomplish,
edge of the opening for the window at top. The edges of the three pieces of wood that form the front must be accurately bevelled
as of
being
square.
rectangular
piece
of
the
shown
in the
illustration, so as
to
fit
closely to-
The mode
making the window is shown in Fig. 10, which will serve as a model for both sides and the front as well, the only difference between the front and sides being
is wider than the sides, though not Openings must be made in the upper part of the casing, at A B C D E, and F G H K, and the interior of the casing must be rebated, as shown by the dotted lines, to receive the glass. The sill is a block of wood attached to the casing, and accurately bevelled to fit against the front of the structure and that part of the sill which comes in front of the window. The panel below is formed by making an external frame of thin casing of one-eighth inch stuff bevelled on the inner edge, and putting within it another piece bevelled on the outer edge, so as to give the appearance
C G H D, in Fig. 7, is taken for the bottom board, and a similar piece for the top board. These boards fit between the edges of the opening at top and bottom, as in the case of those which were used for the bay window. The sides C G, D H, are
requisite size, as
very much.
and bottom, and the front glazing is done in the same way as the glazing of the bay window was managed, the casing being rebated in the interior,
nailed to the boards at top
to these
and the
sides.
The
The
at the sides, as
and and with an ornamental coping at top, within which is a hipped roof formed of three triangular pieces of board, capped at the joints with a roll of wood, and finished with an ornament, such as half an acorn, at the apex immediately below the centre of the sill of the window above. The roofing rests on, and is attached to, the upper surface of the top board of the French window.
casing
is
shown
in
Fig. 3,
The coping
or,
is
shown
taken
rather, to
It
z.
The
dotted lines
v,
this
wx, show
sides
may be
and bottom board, to which the casing forming the and front of the window is nailed. The plan of the bold projecting sill, which should be attached by screws driven into it from within the casing, is shown partly in Fig. 12. It might have been shown in conjunction with Fig. 11
;
shown
and
4, to
give
it
something
Here, however,
the
method
roof,
I must stop for the present, leaving be followed in treating the attic windows, chimneys, parapet, and quoins or dressings, for a
to
is
third
under surface, the connection of lines might have not been understood by some. In
against
its
butted
3,
window
is
an alternative mode of treatment is given in the low, Tudor-like, arched top at A E c. The ornamental work above the window having the appearance of a small balcony, though it is not to be taken as such, as a balcony is entered from the window in front of which it stands, is made
in Fig. 10
BRASS
CASTING
By
F. J,
AT
HOME.
DURBANCE.
HI, TURNED
WORK
AND CORES,
by attaching a block or
slips shown at L M to the upper surface of the top board, but flush with the outside of the casing, to which a balustrade of fretwork or turned work may be screwed at the option of the maker. Within this, two imitation flower pots with
no doubt many of our readers do not know the uses of cores in Metal In the following examples they Casting. will see various methods of application. By their use, both time and metal are saved, and in some cases they could not, on any
account, be dispensed with.
HAVE
may be placed. be noticed that the top of each part of the bay window and the panels below the sill are treated differently in Figs. 3 and 10. This affords the means
imitation flowers or shrubs
It will
When
a large hole
filed or
is
little
it
has only to be
size
reamed and
43 a
SJtASS CASTING
common
use
AT HOME.
;
is
made
baked.
of loam,
flour
and water,
is
etc.,
and dried or
The kinds
use are
One
of their requisites
American beech, or
close-grained wood.
birch,
mahogany, or
in fact
any
of
The most
valuable pieces
For our present method, we can use the mixture of coke and plaster; with this difference, there must be only just sufficient plaster to hold the mixture
to escape.
wood
stead,
together.
them,
i.e.,
for
in what are in the trade For some of ours, we can do without round and square. To begin with round
made
roll
round
roller
;
it,
wax
slide off
running out
hard as a bone and perfectly dry, warp or split. Since the advent of iron bedsteads, these can be obtained from any broker's for a mere song, and is worth six times as much for the purpose as the finest new wood you can buy. We will now suppose we are commencing a pattern for the pillar, Figs. 8 and 9. Firstly, make an exact drawing of outline required, saw off a piece of wood a little longer than sketch, then split off with a knife or chopper a piece thicker than required for turning up do not saw it down, as some recommend, for reasons
is
which
P-tAsTtP
o
A
COJFIE'
,;'.;,,
,;
Y:
;
, , ,
O
B
,^,^
wMm>>
FIG. 14.
EXAMPLE
__^_^__
OF CASTING WITH INSERTED CORE.
now mix
by
will
Put
to dry pull off paper, and well dry in the oven. You can then saw off a piece the length required. Square, triangular, or polygon sections, can easily be made by
which I will now explain. This is a matter of more importance than you will imagine at the first glance. I need scarcely mention that the grain of wood runs
in
when a
it is
piece
is
sawn down,
;
planing up a strip of
wood
very great
Cores
more
liability of fracture
and
if
As I shall mention patterns of various forms, and as no doubt many of my readers have not had much experience in the making of patterns, I will for
the benefit of such give a few hints from
our patterns were turned from a piece of wood prepared in this manner, it would probably break just as
we were
this
it
finishing
be.
it.
would
When
;
is split
down with
in
the grain
my own
is
called rended
being cut
Firstly, the
kind of wood
the grain,
wood
wood,
grain or fibres
and we then get a piece of wood with the all running in a straight line ; and no
soft wood requires that all the tools used should have very acute angles, and be particularly
reasons
is
it
also
how small we turn our pattern, we know there always a certain number of fibres to resist breaking Some of my readers may think I have exaggeacross.
matter
rated the importance of this matter, but I hope it many others, otherwise than those
and
is
if
turned
give a hint to
may who
433
make a
in
hole in
lathe
the
to
centres,
down
a shade larger
the
fold
mark
off
it
design, as
lathe,
then turn
down
the
various
FIG.
PLASTER
'
A
FIG. 12.
B
(A),
FIG. 13.
VENT(b).
proper thickness of each portion, finish with glass paper, then put a little linseed oil on a piece of rag, revolve the lathe very quickly, and press very lightly on the work with
the rag
;
it
a nice polish,
easily.
and make
tool,
FIG. 9.
leave the
mould
434
see later
on.
we
will
now proceed
turned work
cored, and
may
say, the
explain
it-
rough examples, embracing different kinds of work. We will commence with a simple turned pillar
(Figs. 8
{To be continued.)
and
9).
When
the pattern
is
turned, leave
B,
into
them
quite
on being turned round will revolve truly get a card-board box a little deeper than half the pattern, rest the two needles on the
sides, making a slight indentation for them to rest in hang a weight on each, or tie with cotton (underneath),
HE
old notion
when the plaster, etc., is poured in, it will not move. You will now see the plaster will just come to
so that the centre of the pattern (see plan Fig.
tion, Fig. 9).
8,
servants and dependants, however coarse and common, is now discarded by all
and
eleva-
human
When dry
enced by
their surroundings,
and holes for pouring and vent. The position of these I must leave to the judgment of the workman. I will just mention that they should be as near the ends as possible, and in the most
getting the groove
than those of their dwellings. Surround a child with coarse or hideously designed and coloured furniture, and still worse wall papers and prints, and you will
place that child in a
There are some patterns which are made to leave own cores, of which Figs. 10, 11, 12, 13, afford an example. In a simple cup-chuck for the lathe, which could be made into a bell-chuck by adding screws, Fig. 10 is the exterior of chuck; Fig. 11, section of lower half of mould, with chuck pattern in position. The holes should be turned a little
their
manners coarse, uncouth, and repulsive but home where all his or her surroundings suggest a chaste refinement of taste, and
find his
;
That which
is
and here
the
let
me
say that
recommend
employment of
gilded, carved,
and
have shown the hole for tapping to fit the lathe mandrel nose as cored, but I most strongly advise my readers to drill all holes under half-an-inch, as it is not worth while bothering with a core under that size,
I
rooms,
because on the one hand the aesthetic tends to destroy all natural grace by its stiffness, and richly ornamented surroundings create a feeling of unhomely strangeness,
that keeps the occupant of a
rare cases. The pattern is put mouth downwards into the bottom of an old paper-collar box, and filled in with plaster, as before. When putting
except in
room
ill
at ease
amongst
them.
But there
is
this last,
and
to the
bottom
dry,
and
13
show
;
sections
A and B in Fig. 13 are holes for pouring and vent. The mould is shown upside down. In Fig. 14 I have put before my readers an example of an inserted core. In my first example the
fretwork guides
the bar
itself
;
forms
its
own
core, but
we cannot always do that we shall make a special core for each case.
fastened to them.
generally have to
All patterns for
be easily understood, unless it be for the purpose of driving purchasers to buy the least repulsive but more costly patterns. As the coarse patterns and ugly coloured designs could only be conceived by persons with coarse and vulgar minds, it speaks unfavourably of the decorative paper trade to say that such designs are produced and sold, since it
ugly, cannot
and
The
A and B (shaded
dark)
on
it.
On
being taken out of the mould (sand or two holes, and the core is then
and dropped
left.
shows a sad lack of pure artistic taste in the designer and maker. Happily, each year now sees less and less of cheap ugly wall papers, and we observe more artistic designs in the cheaper grades of papers. It was argued by builders some years since that the tastes of the
435
and gaudy
hence these were used on the walls of their dwellings. This statement was nothing less
pattern,
it has since transpired that brown wall papers were even more poisonous than the green, and that
than a hollow falsehood invented to cover the penurious sins of house owners, since
it is
well
known
that
if
not
all,
of
these
their
and
poor
may be produced without arsenic. Purchasers therefore demand papers free from arsenical
It
should
colour.
This
to describe the
method
I
of printing and colouring wall papers, or to give directions for the detection of arsenic in colours.
say, in passing,
we now
generally find
may
them to choose their own patterns from several of a given price. The householder should at all times insist on this choice as his right, and in choosing wall papers should allow such considerations as the following
in large quantities
garlic
may be detected by the peculiar odour given off whilst burning the substance
In
my last
and
will
As
to Pattern.
Let
room decide
and
its
A broad pattern with long be suitable for a large lofty room, but would be out of place in a small room; and, conversely, a small pattern will appear lost on the walls of a large
breadth of the pattern.
curves in
it
will
room.
figures
repeated in rows
when
the paper
is
same reason, avoid bunches of flowers, figures of animals, and parts of the human frame all such patterns weary and annoy
walls of a bedroom, and, for the
;
the eye, and, in cases of sickness, irritate the brain thus retarding recovery.
printed with a restful pattern, such as trailing or climbing plants conventionally treated in white on a soft
tinted ground.
I
the foliage and flowers of the yellow jasmine, but printed in white on a pale blue ground, and in the
on a pale green
a
ground.
cumference of the room, making allowance for doors and windows, and having ascertained the number of feet, multiply this by the height of the room, and divide by the number of square feet in a piece of paper, which will be found to be 63 square feet for English paper, and 41 square feet for French
paper.
is
cool
and
restful. 9d.,
The jas-
Having measured the room and procured the newe shall find on examination
two selvedges, so to one of these must
;
mine paper
12 yards
per piece of
be neatly trimmed
off
up close
Cool
tints will
be appreciated from ;
lengths that will follow in consecutive order, and both selvedges on the lengths which will be required to
whilst west to north a warmer tint should prevail those from north to east, from whence blow the coldest
job.
Isles,
make
Some few
all
years since
was necessary
warn pur-
up close to a door, or window, or in finishing the This trimming should be done with a pair of long scissors or shears, such as those shown in Fig. 24, and must be carefully done to avoid all marks whereby the joins of the paper maybe detected when it is hung.
finish
condemn
;
We
up
This
436
may be done by
hand
stitutes.
It if
matters but
little
what
is
purpose,
for the
we can thereby
hand roll up the trimmed and so go on until all the But first we must decide piece has been trimmed. which of the two strips must be trimmed off. Note the pattern of the paper, and decide which part of it should point up to the ceiling (of course, all foliage
scissors held in the right
;
part
The
is
fashioned flour-paste,
made
as follows
: Put
half-a-
quartern of old flour into a clean pail, and mix it into a paste with lukewarm water. Have a large kettleful
of boiling water at hand, and when all the paste has been well mixed, and free from lumps, pour in the boiling water, and keep briskly stirring the paste while pouring in the water then dissolve half an ounce of alum in half a pint of warm water, and stir this well into the hot paste. If noxious insects abound in the walls, it will be well to also mix with the paste half an ounce of corrosive sublimate (bichloride of mercury) dissolved in water. But I must warn my readers that the above salt is a dangerous poison, fatal alike to insects and animals. Do not, then, on any account leave any paste about unguarded when the mercury salt has been mixed with it, and carefully wipe up all particles spilled on the floor, and burn
;
should have the points of the leaves upwards) then cut off all the left-hand selvedges from each piece of
;
paper. In unrolling a "piece" of paper, we shall invariably find that the top of the pattern comes first;
if
we
we, then, cut off the right-hand edge of the paper as unroll it, we shall ensure that each length of paper
has the left-hand selvedge trimmed off when the paper is reversed. I may add here that it is advisable to cut both edges but this must be done off thick papers
;
for these
have
to
We
lengths,
must
next
reach from ceiling to skirting, and must first decide what part of the pattern must go next the ceiling. This may be a certain
the lengths required to
all
scraps of paper.
The
before applying
to the paper,
and must
row
certain
but,
whatever part we
choose at first, this part must be strictly adhered to in all the subsequent lengths, and all around the room. Thus,
a row of stars, or buds, or flowers, are placed close to the ceiling in the first
if
may
a small distempering brush, such as that used in distempering the ceilings, or that
shown
all
at Fig. 25.
Do
and avoid
of
spilling
length,
be
edges
the lower
note whether or
do this, we shall also fail to match the paper at the sides, and shall be annoyed to find distorted figures and
If
we
fail to
flowers
all
along the
joins
loudly de-
near the corner as possible, and draw a perpendicular line with a pencil. Now fix
or chair, or box, or
nouncing the clumsy paper-hanger. Therefore match each length at the top, and cut off the surplus paper at the bottom, if any be left. We shall begin to hang the paper on a plain wall, if possible, and in the left-hand corner of the room farthest from the window, and will therefore first cut
off the required number of lengths, placing one length over the other, pattern uppermost, in the order in which they will be hung. After these have all been
other assistant to
a convenient position near the perpendicular line, walk back to the paper, take up the pasted length by one of the two methods here given, carry it to the chosen corner, and hang it with one of its edges fair with the pencilled guide-line, and
stature, in
the selected part of the pattern next the ceiling. As a piece of paper wet with paste does not lend itself
cut
off,
their position
be laid
must be reversed, and they must face downwards on the table, floor, or pasteProfessional paperhangers use a
it will be mention two methods in vogue by profesarranging the paper so as to make it con-
paste-board, constructed of two n-inch boards, 9 or 10 feet long, hinged together, and supported on
trestles
;
but
to
Take about two feet of the lower First method. end of the pasted paper, double half of this back on the pasted part, and allow it to form a loop, then double back about one foot of the upper end in a
437
prevented from sticking unpasted side the upper part of the length
is
now
put
the two hands under this loop, walk backwards, take up the paper, carry it to the wall, judge with the eye
the distance likely to be covered by the piece hanging over the hands, place the edge of the loop fair with
the plumb-line, or with the edge of the piece of hung paper on the left-hand side, then press the right-hand side to the wall, pass the hands upwards to the ceiling, and fix the upper fold, then gently press the
by the
touches the wall. When has been pasted fair, we have only to step down, put the hands up under the paper, gently draw down the lower edge, and fix the lower part of the paper.
this
Draw
this gently
from
Avoid rubbing or smoothing the paper, because in way it may be torn or smeared, for the colours are easily started whilst the paper is damp. Keep the hands and also the pad of rag clean and if any paste should be pressed out on the fair surface of
;
it
at
once
with
clean
the
upper part
the
has
lower
succeed, pull
down
the length
try again.
part will
hang
and Thus
right.
Then
wad
of
go on
until all
with a
duster gently
centre
length,
soft rag or
press
been
leaving
covered,
down
of
the
the
then
until
alternately right
and
the
left,
up with
remnants.
The
to
finishing length
may have
cut
sides,
be
the
If
small
on
for
both
wrinkles appear
on cheap papers,
PASTE for they are probably BRUSH.
disregard them,
fig 25.
FIG. 26.
PAPERHANGER'S BRUSH.
FIG.
caused by
whilst
stretching
edge HANGER'S must never be CHISEL, If the lengths knife, shown. have been cut too
27. PAPER
long, match the pattern
at the
top,
selvedge
the
paper
will
is
damp, and
pro-
draw the
PAPEKHANGER'S
SCISSORS.
mark the
the paper
it
paper,
away
back about eighteen inches of both ends of the paper on the pasted side, and thus lightly stick these parts together ; then turn back about four or five inches of the upper part, and allow this to fall over the thumbs of both hands as the edges of the paper are held up between the fingers and thumbs. Walk forward, raising the pasted length as you advance toward the lower end of the paper, and thus carry it to the wall with the upper loop hanging over the hands. By this method the upper edge next the ceiling is stuck to the wall first, then the top loop is gently drawn out and stuck, and,
at Fig. 29) is as follows
(shown
Turn
in this part,
and place
back again
when
the surplus has been cut off to the marked line. Treat the lower part of the length at the skirting in a
similar manner,
Some paperhangers dispense with a duster or a wad of rag, and use a soft-haired brush instead, such
as that
shown
at Fig. 26.
have
and
found that a soft-haired hand-brush or bannister-brush served my purpose best as a substitute. In using the brush, strike upwards in the middle of the paper first,
then right and
left
up
down U 2
the
438
middle of the paper to the bottom, and left and right downwards until the bottom has been reached. Some professionals use wooden rollers covered with flannel and chamois leather (Fig. 28). These may be bought for
2s. or 2s. 6d.
each, or can be made as shown in sketch. Excellent tools for paperhangers, including the peculiar chisel-knife (Fig. 27)
used
in
paperhanging, are
made by
Messrs. Hamilton and Co., 9 and 10, Greek Street, Soho Square, IV., and are sold by oil and
colour vendors throughout the country.
This
floor.
We
FIG. I.
down
class
UPPER PART OF SAW AND FRAME, SHOWING WOODEN table with groove cut. A, Wood screw for insertion at B, B, for fixing slips when in position.
and
finishing with an old woman's tooth. Three hard wood, say mahogany, are now carefully fitted to slide freely without shake the full length of the groove; on one is screwed the block for guide in cutting the pins (Fig. 2), and on the two others the guide chisel
slips of
PALMER.
operations amateurs
pieces for cutting the dovetails (Fig. 3). The figures shown in the drawings will almost explain themselves.
The angle
of the guide pieces should be the same about eight degrees from the right angle is about best but reversed, i.e., right and left ; these are for the
diffi-
made,
Upon
the ac-
curate fit between the pins and dovetails depends the beauty and strength of the joint, and to accomplish this, very careful manipulation is required of the small saws used in the operation. The pins are the least
difficult to make, although it is a necessity they should be cut perfectly vertical, the angle being fairly visible. With a little care this difficulty should be easily over-
For the pins, the sloping block is and must be of the same angle, only vertical instead of horizontal, and this block must have a stop fixed on its face exactly at right angles, as shown in Fig. 2. As this block can be reversed by sliding it out of the groove and without fear of altering the angle, it is not necessary to have two, right and left. As some means of preventing the slips from moving
dovetails proper.
requisite,
while sawing
(Fig.
1
is
until they
touch the
fast.
A better
come
tail
make
aibitrary,
marked from the pins are and the least swerve from the proper Now to position of the saw will entail a sure failure. obviate these difficulties and lend a helping hand to
proper, as the lines
necessary.
not quite
in
understood,
will
describe the
modus operandi
my
brother amateurs
I
is
tions
am
about to
offer,
that
those
who intend
is
following
my
making a small box of mahogany, say \ inch thick. The wood is first cut a little larger than the finished sizes, front and back and two sides, and the faces and
A fret machine
with
a wooden table
iron one, as
I
a desideratum, but if fitted with an believe most are now, it is easy to fit a
wooden
the
cover, say full J inch thick over, in which case I should advise it should be square (Fig. 1). Having then
wooden table, the first requisite is to scribe, half an inch apart, parallel lines at right angles to the saw fronts, and about three inches in front of it, the wood between the lines should be grooved out, say half an inch deep, which can be done in the absence of better means to wit, the circular saw by paring with a
FIG. 2.
B, Plan.
DECORATIVE CARPENTRY.
edges are planed square
;
439
making a
are then shot with the plane quite square with the
edges, so that they are about % inch longer than
required.
may
and
trial
of patience, and
ideas
in the
I
hopes of bringing
set
all
5V inch
forth
new
hints publicity.
$=
pieces
y% inch wide at their broad side, and marking the face of the wood as a guide in sawing. The wood being marked, now proceed to saw the pins. Having placed the block in the groove, adjust it so that when the wood to be operated upon is placed against the stop fixed on the block, one of the series of marks is directly opposite the saw, either right side or left side of the pin, as the case may be then start the saw, and make one cut down to the gauge line move the block for the next cut, and so on for the one
pins, say about
;
DECORATIVE CARPENTRY. FOR THE ARTISTIC AND USEFUL ADORNMENT OF THE INTERIOR OF EVERY HOME.
By
J.
W. GLEESON-WHITE.
Ill, THE DOOR 0VERD0ORS, E now come to a very important feature, as whatever a room may, or may not
When
all
block,
and cut the corresponding sides of the pins in the same way. The spaces between the pins can then
have windows, fireplace, cupboards, even ceiling it must have a doorway, and, in nearly every case, some swinging
1 rzi
N
e S
it has been supposed that the replacing any feature such as the door, with its attendant mouldings, lintel, etc., was not
SI s
So that the question arises, how best to add to the existing door, that it may be made a feature of the room, and not a mere hole in
feasible.
re-decorate and
means of barring
be removed either by sawing or with the chisel, taking care to keep to the gauge lines, and cutting a little in, in the thickness of the wood, as this makes a close joint The dovetails are now to be marked from the pins, and to do this the piece to be marked is laid flat on the bench, and the piece with the pins placed exactly vertical, and in its intended position, and the
scriber or pencil with a long fine point passed along
first idea of the door as a necessary structure. Starting first with the framework of the doorway, in many cases we find it consists simply of a piece of machine-made moulding, nailed round the opening ;
the
same
which
is,
conclude, the
just
and
in
a bare finish to the wall-paper on either side, no way a feature of itself. The space around
is,
the door
selves
;
rough rule, one might reckon on about 18 inches clear above the lintel, while the space at sides may be nothing to a 100 feet or more so
but, as a
;
not
forgetting, in
that our
to
be of
placing in position for marking, the broad side of the pin is inside the intended box.
The block
of the
flat
is
angular guides placed in position, and the two pieces marked for the dovetails, sawn in a similar
unknown requirements of the possible The shelf above the workers of these suggestions. door, commonly spoken of for convenience and brevity as the " overdoor," is a modern revival of a habit of
service for the
door treatment
to
be found
in
manner
are
marks
almost
standing
The
every country, in some form or another but until its recent re-introduction, obsolete in the ordinary English
hollows are then removed with the chisel, and if the instructions have been carefully followed a well-fitting
and
make
;
fit.
No
at
doubt improvements
rate, the
very likely
but,
any
home. But with the modern assthetic school came a good many sensible common-sense-ible revivals, and many an old forgotten fancy in art and literature was brought to the light of the 19th century, to be rejudged on its own merits. This, the overdoor, is one of those fancies that revived, has caught the popular taste, and found, in some shape or another, general appreciation;
44
DECORATIVE CARPENTRY.
and certainly, as an inexpensive method of making a prominent feature of a necessary part of the house-woodwork as distinct from moveable furniture, it stands second only to the later revival of mantelpieces and overmantels in its effectiveness. I need not say that it may be overdone, and must on no account be made of more than its right importance with regard to the
neither should
it
surroundings;
be of richer design or decoration than the mantelpiece and other woodwork. In those I have made for my own house, I find the simplest are the most successful
;
left as usual is very marked and the additional importance of the whole
is
FIG.
by two bars of same wood, mortised in, the one fitting close down to the top of the moulding, the other at sufficient height to take the
tiles,
the
if
need be, hollowed to go over the dado rail the whole frame is screwed to the wall (there is generally a wood frame of the dcor proper to give a good fixing), and is perfectly stable in itself, while easily removed if needed. This framework is the skeleton in which all other parts bear, and the choice of details must be governed entirely by taste and circumstances, allowing of an almost endless variety of treatment, as the few sketches of possible overdoors
FIG. 27.
It
is
impossible to give
any other
over
We
find
overdoor as a simple
shelf placed
that
if
it would have a tendency to depress and crush the doorway, and the brackets needed to support the shelf would be in the way,
particularly
when moving
furniture in or out
it is
of the rooms, that in almost every case best to raise the line of the shelf
some
or
inches above the head of the doorway. The first thing to be made is a simple frame9
work of wood, as shown in Fig. 18; this forms the construction of nearly all the other designs the wood should be i\ or 2 1 inches
;
in width,
and of sufficient thickness to stand about \ to \ inch in front of the thickest part of the moulding already there ; this is crossed
FIG. 26.
DECORATIVE CARPENTRY.
441
L
III
V
'
II
'II
FRAME-WORK
WHEN FITTED
TILES.
FRAME-WORK AS FOUNDA-
Fir. 22.
FIG. 20.
SHELF
FIG.
FIG.
23. OVERDOOR SUITABLE FOR LOFTY HALL WITH MUCH SPACE ABOVE DOOR.
442
working drawings
DECORATIVE CARPENTRY.
for these, as the size
is
so variable
but the construction is so simple that the merest tyro may manufacture nearly all of them if he wills.
This style is given to harmonize with the very popular style that has been done (rather overdone)
of late,
and finished
in
The
omitted.
is
on
overdoors, but
may be exchanged
or
filled
with
In Fig. 19, the simple framework of Fig. 18 tiles, division bars being added as a
Style."
Why
no
is
very doubtful.
Surely
working detail, it is well to remark that before making the framework, the tiles should be chosen, and the sign planned out according. By way of illustration, I measure the door nearest to hand, and find the space between upright lines of post is 38 inches in width. If eight inch tiles are chosen, it will be only possible to have four, and the division bars five, including each end, or three if preferred but be respectively either
;
former age has ever broken out into a furniture eruption of epidemic balustrades and balconies, to
the extent of the present attack, the walnut
whereby a pleasant
near predecessor. a design is suggested, specially adapted for a door in a hall or passage, with plenty of wall space above, and in full view of passersits
and green of
next
Fig.,
In
the
23,
tiles.
If six-inch tiles
tiles
are
with
by up and down the stairs. One often finds such a door, and sometimes within reach of the dusting and arrangement from the staircase without a climb (rather
a weak point in overdoors as a
shelf might therefore
steps as shown,
rule).
bars only f of an inch wide or five tiles with bars rather over an inch and a half. If the design included
This style of
tile,
more simple
must be chosen
but
if
on the upright posts are wanted, then the greater number of tiles, with their divisional bars would be the most effective. It will be seen that the size of brackets is also governed by size of tiles, as 6-inch tiles would only require 7-inch brackets, and with 8-inch tiles would want 9 or 10 inch ones.
In Fig. 20, the spaces are
left
them somewhat
also available, if
from the
needed.'
dust.
The
shelf at top
is
is
square, as for
tiles,
The whole
but a small plate held by tin wire pins is placed in When a set of small plates is available, they each.
look very well in this way
top
rail
;
struction, a key-hole
saw and
working the
utilize
cresting easily.
the shelf
is
fixed
above
one
framework. Brackets doubled, about \ inch apart (and of a slightly larger size than the others), carry the shelf, which is also supported by
of skeleton
A
whole
the
would save have never known it to happen, let the door bang never so violently, unless an object has been placed in an If plates are placed standing insecure manner. against the wall, they should slope slightly and be guarded by a small nail, half driven in, to prevent their sliding down and clearing away the etceteras in front, amid much noise and damage. The overdoor in Fig. 21 is varied by the brackets
needed.
railing, if in front,
I
This
given.
tools for
may
of
wood
when
same as square
flutes cut
side, to give a
introduced as a prominent
overdoors, exceed-
and renders
this, or similar
five
equal
room
in Gothic
tiles
between, as shown.
back-board against the wall at the back is also in keeping with this form. In Fig. 22, a different plan is suggested the brackets here assist in supporting a coving of lincrusta,
;
main
feature.
The
I
treated in accordance.
in the next chapter.
its
shall
The treatment
This
is
(To be continued?)
443
and two
nail the
FIXC3ETTE.
each
ever,
in
putting together,
first
T may
writer
have occurred
to
many
it
of the
occupation
and bottom, previous to which, howmark the inside of sides as shown for position of shelves, and mark lightly outside to show position of nails, turn over and nail on the back, take the remaining 2 feet lengths, and run the plane along,
sides on the top
many
of our
and take off the tongues, the object being to allow them to stand clear of the door, and permit a current
of air to reach
strip of
size
all
only from a
wood,
2 inches
by
1,
provisions of a family.
was noticed that in houses, the rentals of which were in some cases upwards of forty pounds a year, no provision whatever was made for the wants of a tenant in this respect, beyond the dark, gloomy cupboard of the kitchen, at once the home and happy hunting-grounds of mice, beetles, crickets, and a numerous host of
bent on an expedition of this nature,
other small
found,
fry.
or
screwed firmly on if screws all round are used, the heads must go below the
;
surface
up.
and puttied
fit
ing up to
to
be as near as
windows of both ventilating one into the and invariably near a gulley hole imperfectly trapped and communicating direct with the sewer a wonderful instance of the proficiency of the modern jerry builder in not doing what ought to be done. To meet this want the writer designed and constructed the portable larder here sketched, which I have little doubt will be found a real treasure and comfort in suburban houses of six and seven rooms, and where no such accommodation exists while for those who
cases the
other,
:
some
up
fine
all
round with
brads.
The
inch,
will
make
This
the
door.
should be mortised,
as
the
greatest
it
will
found no mean addition to any kitchen, as it is easy and simple in construction, and may be varied
to
suit
be both
strain will
be here
to
who
go
or
FIG.
I.
do not care
to
the
trouble
dividuals.
perhaps
plish
it
accomto
it
principal
In the present case, time and economy being the objects, the writer used match-lining for
its
their
satisfaction,
may
rather added to
will take for the
It
and a 24
a
strip
;
feet or
two 12
same, also
2 inches
by
outside frame,
AA
another
strip, i
inch by
frame of
it.
To
construct
it,
be halved as the frame, glued and screwed up, a pair of 2 inch butt hinges and small brass lock will also be needed. The constructural part finished, proceed to punch down all heads of nails, and with a lump of putty stained with a little oak stain, fill up the nail-holes, screw-holes and all other imperfections when dry, rub well down smooth with fine glass-paper, leave no putty sticking on the wood;
and cut it up into ten 2 feet lengths, these up by simply matching them one into the other, and be careful to get them all right side out. You will then have the top, bottom, and shelves of the case, now cut the 24 feet or two 12 lengths, as the case may be, into equal lengths of 3 feet each, which will be eight lengths in all, join these up in the same way as
work, or it will interfere with your staining. Procure a bottle of Stephens' oak stain, and with a flat camelhair brush go well over the sides, front, both sides of door and edges of shelves, if not dark enough, give it two coats as even in shade as possible; let your brush be fairly full and work quickly, use a coarse brush on the ends of wood where it is cross-grain, dabbing the
444
stain well
in,
necessary
let
it
stand
2d.
size,
hob,
a pound, put in small saucepan with little water on when melted it is fit for use; don't boil it, it must only be warm. With the camel-hair brush go all over the case again when it is dry you can proceed to
;
of zinc, ij inch by inch, bent hook shape, two to each panel, and the top is secured in the same way. This is simpler than cutting rebates, and, for those who have not the tools, or ability, answers just as well; a piece of felt or baize half-inch wide should be gummed all round where the glass rests, this prevents any
FIG. 2.
HANDY
varnish
it,
should be done in a
warm room,
free
as
it
were. It
is
now
it to dry thoroughly hard before touching it again. Then proceed to complete the door by tacking inside the bottom panel a piece of perforated zinc in the upper panels
;
complete and ready for use, and a most useful article, and withal so simple in construction, that the merest
bition
two squares of embossed glass, let these be][cut half -inch each way larger than the space |of panels, the bottom edges of which rest "on two pieces
fix
while for those whose am; capable of various modifications from a more artistic point of view, for example, on a stand it would form a useful book case fixed
tyro can put
is
it
together
it
higher,
is
or small table. Round the front and sides at the top an ornamental ridge and fretwork gallery could be
445
paid the village carpenter and blacksmith for a few But the great
majority have been compelled to hammer out their mechanical knowledge at the anvil of laborious practice,
and conquering
by dogged perseverance. by
One more
cabinet of curios, coins, old china, and so on. suggestion that is if fixed out of doors,
:
preventing them from expending their praiseworthy energies in a wrong direction, and it is certain that
the efforts of the writers have been by no means unrewarded. But in spite of this, the amateur, as a
class, is still too far in the
the top should be covered with a piece of sheet zinc or thin lead to preserve it from the effects of the
weather.
Total cost,
materials only.
craftsmen,
and
hope
in this
help
him
to
a sounder footing.
is
To
his
work
good or bad
Normally,
it
is bad.
need not
HE
pages of
this
Magazine
are, as is
now
moment, within fifty yards of me, I could point to work of professional carpenters, bad enough to disgrace even a second-rate amateur. The latter is, however, exceptional
;
and
is
of increasing
What
then
is
In
But at the same time it has always been sought to convey to the readers instruction of such reliable and practical character, that even professional workmen may gain here and there valuable items of information. Sometimes an attempt has been made to bridge over the gap which separates the two great classes of mechanics to remove the stigma which somehow hangs about the very word amateur.
popularity.
a word,
it is
muddled.
Take
first
bit
work, a set of very plain shelves. alone betray the workman. One
The
is
flat,
another
is
rounded, a third doubtful. They are of deal, stained and varnished ; but no stain will conceal the fact that
the
flat
and
shape.
Apparently the
is
plane iron,
is
difficult one, if
not hopeless.
Some
all amateur work is so essentially bad that a practical mechanic can tell it at a glance, and therefore treats it with a mere contemptuous glance, as being unworthy of criticism. Others, obliged to confess that some amateurs really do attain
work
broad grooves or hollows, so that a straightedge will only touch here and there where it rests upon the tops of the multitudinous convexities. The shelves have been let into the sides about half an inch, or perhaps
excellence in mechanical manipulation, consider that mere jealousy leads the professional to despise work
somewhat less but the grooves are not all of equal depth or width, nor have the ends of the shelves been
;
tribe,
skill
and that
it
is
not
sawn
as of caste, the
Ne
above as which
is
sutor ultra crepidam being in this case a doubleedged sarcasm. Undoubtedly we have amateurs who
have risen superior to the name a few who at file and lathe can compete on equal terms with our best fitters. But why ? Because in point of fact their actual training has been the same. They have gone patiently through the drudgery of apprenticeship, only without articles Many were taught in their youth at or legal bonds. King's College, London, or other educational establishments where workshops have been established for the amusement and instruction of the students others have laid out dollars for the privilege of attending
;
Moreover, the shelves are not exactly horizontal in every case, being, some one or two of them, wider apart at one end than at the other. These are just the sort of defects which are so common, and as I have myself plodded through the mire of similar failures, I can determine the origin of the same. First and foremost, the plane was
very probably the
Good work is hopeless unless both long and short planes are ground and sharpened properly. The jack-plane iron having to do the rough work, should have a somewhat rounded edge, projecting
out of order.
446
rather
will
middle than at the corners. This wide curvature, and remove without undue labour the rough outsides of the sawn boards. But following this should come a plane with perfectly level sole and iron, true as a straightedge, the corners alone being just eased off to prevent their marking the surface and, lastly, where
of his impatience
is
that his
inefface-
make a
Another piece of work lies before me for criticism) upon which I do not wish to be too severe but by sheer compulsion and stress of circumstances, I must be more just than generous. This is a model
;
and 3-inch
will
stroke.
is
It
is
r.ot
a 2-inch bore
but
and sharpened
final
which the
we we
A casual or
The two
as
it is
what battered engine, new as it is. It has, evidently, been taken to pieces a good many times during its
construction, for the
slits
They may be
;
flat
(or square,
of
the
screw-heads are
rounded but whichever is chosen, let the result leave no doubt as to the intention of the workman. In any case, it is necessary to make the edge truly square to the sides first of all, and it is here again that defects meet the eye. The amateur is sure to find this a difficult job, and it is so in reality. The plane has a tendency to roll sideways during its long journey, because the tool is a heavy one, and it rests upon a comparatively narrow track, which, being itself uneven till corrected, is but a blind guide to the sole of the plane, leading it astray. The amateur meets with this difficulty, and too readily seeks a compromise so, finding that a rounded edge is suggested by the erratic wandering of the plane, he yields to the temptation, and allows it to have its own way. Probably he concludes that when all is put together no one will notice the defects in this unimportant part of his
;
we
bed down
fairly
and evenly.
One
and show
and, perhaps, the latter has not been so that the screw
is
tapped
truly,
forced to
lie at
an
Now, if one hole had been drilled and tapped, and a temporary screw put in to hold the cover in
place while the rest of the holes were being drilled a
little smaller than ultimately required, and a five-sided reamer had then been used to correct any deviation of the drill, the holes would have been made true to each other and a larger reamer subsequently passed through the holes in the cover would have given the
;
work.
As
failures alluded to
to the
have
ready
made
screws themselves, they should be bought but while the engine is being fitted, a
out of sorts.
Very
likely,
job set should be used, and when all proves satisfactory, these should be removed to give place to an
entirely
workshop,
new
set.
It is
astonishing
saw
of the premises,
and
say at once
it is
spoiled
by bad
attempt carpentry with a tool whose edge has been making researches into the penetrability of the metal.
is not the case, and the saw was in good and the work accurately marked by square and rule, then the marks have been cut into, instead of being left upon the work, whereby the guide lines so necessary for final adjustment have been oblite-
opposite to
each other.
But
if
such
as generally in that
condition,
Another defect
ought so to
fit
evident.
The
cylinder cover
where
it
rated.
touches the flange of the cylinder upon which it rests. In the present case it does not fit accurately, and the edge of the cover and flange is not quite square and
well finished.
Sawing requires great care, and the common fault is too heavy pressure, and too quick speed. The channels or grooves have evidently been sawn thus carelessly, some few of the scribed lines being evident, some wholly cut away, some (where
of the amateur the track
turned quite
it
flat.
not
find
decidedly convex on
perhaps,
little
its
under
side,
will not
be seen
or,
it
was intended
to use a
paper
crooked) partially obliterated. Now, I think, by a general survey of these shelves, that the amateur joiner had the requisite skill, but was wanting
is
washer, or a
steam-tight.
red lead, to
make
The trademark
plainly enough.
is, however, here stamped Five minutes more at the lathe, with
in patient care
and painstaking.
Evidently he was in
too great a hurry to get his job finished, and the result
The
capability of
WA YS AND MEANS.
the part of the
cylinder cover
447
maker
is
is
a very good
of the flange
is
square and
true, as
it
removed, as
ought to be.
piston rod was not turned, as a bright bar of was used, such as we can readily obtain but its appearance is spoiled by very evident marks of the vice, by which it has been held while the screw was cut for securing the crosshead. Here, again, it would have been just as easy to provide the jaws of the vice with copper, or leaden, or wooden clamps, which would have held the work tightly, and not bruised it.
steel
;
The
and not undeservedly, attaches to his name. In present day his class is one which, from its numbers alone, keeps prominently before the public. The facility with which he can now obtain his tools and workshop appliances, the numerous firms dethe
all should urge upon him the ceaseless endeavour to remove that slur so long cast slightingly upon the products
voted to supplying his multifarious needs, nals more or less devoted to his benefit,
the jour-
of his labour
It is
"
The guide
Not
being parallel, the crosshead was found to bind at a Hence the holes in the certain point at each stroke. brasses have been " eased a bit," to allow more free-
To
make a cement
Take
it
dom, and are no longer round. The fly wheel is well turned, and so is the axle but the hole in the former being a trifle large, the key has driven the wheel a
;
Subject the mixture to such a \% pounds of sulphur. moderate degree of heat that the sulphur melts. Stir until
the
it
into
one side, so that it does not run exactly true. The engine will work by steam fairly well, though a little fitfully, showing a slight strain at one or two points and I have seen far worse models. But that it is amateur work no judge of mechanical fitting would doubt for a single moment, because of the above
little
to
moulds.
at
When
it
is
to be heated to
248
melts,
is
in the
air,
and
At 230
it is
said to
be as hard as stone.
and others of similar character. As I am not describing the actual process of model-making, I have merely hinted at the cause of the various
defects,
cipitates.
are
defects exhibited
an oxyhydrate.
To
this precipitate is
added a solution
about 12
exist,
in
an amateur's work.
?
of 30 parts of Rochelle
are introduced.
salt,
and
finally
When
first
Of
course,
in
The
in
article to
attained
the
with copper
is
immersed
an alkaline
model
to
stiff
brush, after
immersed
in
the copper
solution.
or otherwise,
is
am
not
now
of the copper.
W hen
By
its
fair
who
the
not,
in
any
the copper,
may
be produced and
what a somewhat extensive acquaintance has shown us to be the general fault and cause of failure in amateur work. The fault is not, as a rule, one of unskilfulness or inability to use the tools of the fitter but solely such as care and patience would remedy. Amateur Work contains much inhave glanced
at
;
We
deposit,
are
paraffin
or
varnish,
which
readily
removed
after
body from the copper bath. Varnish for Imitating Gilding. A very perfect imitation of gilding on brass and bronze articles, it is said, may be made by means of a varnish composed of 80 grains
determines to eschew the faults which I have briefly pointed out, it is of little moment whether he reads one
of gum-lac, 20 grains of dragon's blood, 5 grains of turmeric, and 1660 grains of alcohol. The metal should be brushed with the varnish in all directions, by means of a sponge, and
been issued up to this time, and But as the amateur's sincere friend and would-be adviser, I am most anxious to help him to remove the stigma which undoubtedly,
number or all
that have
then immediately
surface at
first
warmed over a
gentle charcoal
fire.
The
will
finest gilding.
The vamish
bottles.
448
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
OUNTRY readers
on a visit to London should on no account omit to pay a visit to Messrs. Charles Churchill and Co., 21, Cross Street, Finsbury, E. C, for the purpose of inspecting
their
driven home.
The grasp
The handle
in the
Gay
it
screwdriver
fitted
into
immediately
drawing.
This arrange-
ment
acts
well
stocked
on the blade which issues from the handle through a well-made and closelyfitting brass socket, in
rent
ways
thus,
when
that appears
on the plate
is
exactly
duced on the other side of the Atlantic, by the inventive brains and cunning fingers of practical
Americans.
great
which
rendered
In
common
himself
with the
when
it
is
pressed downwards,
in
Mr. Churchill
courteous
always
use the
term
relation
to
the
do the honours of his show-room, and explain the working and construction of any tool or piece of machinery, and answer any questions,
ready
to
and
or to the
left,
when
the tool
is
movable and
in the
own
hin-
drance,
to
when
it is
desirable for
attention
him
to
wood
when
it is
pressed
be
turning
his
weightier matters
He
is
now
pre-
new catalogue, which will be duly announced, when ready, in these pages,and many of the novelties
paring his
of blade
it
upwards
is
when
to
prove
fixed in
interesting to amateurs.
The
which perhaps
tion, as far as
screw.but the handle being movable, is brought by a twist of the wrist into the proper position for the next half turn. The handle turns and the hand turns with
it,
mere form is concerned, but which is made on a plan which renders it infinitely superior to the common screwdriver. Now, as all amateurs know, the common
screwdriver consists of a blade, with a wedge-shaped termination at the upper end, and rigidly fixed in a wooden
handle, fitted with a brass ferule at the place where the tang of the blade enters the wood. The firmer the blade is fixed in the handle, the better calculated to do
its
is
retained,
and the
rela-
hand and handle are maintained until the operation is completed, and the screwdriver put out of the hand. The Gay screwdriver is well made, the blades being of the best steel, nickel plated, as is also the plate and button which conceal the ratchet arrangement in the handle, which is made of ebony. The sizes in which this capital addition to the contents
tive positions of
work
be
is
the
of the
is
tool-chest
their
screwdriver
to
;
held
to en-
made, and
:
and
sure
the
desired
as follows
4m.,
;
3s.3d.;5in.,3s.od.;
6in.,4s. 3d.
8in.,
above
are
let
the
FIG.
I.
4s.
9d.
ioinch,
tang,
someinto nicks
5s.3d.;i2in.,5s9d.
cut
in
times
the
ferule
to
them.
driver
on the contrary, in the new screwnow under consideration, which is manufactured by Messrs. Gay and Parsons, Augusta, Maine, U.S., on Mr.
The
distinctive feature,
shown a new kind of lock, keyway and key, manufactured by the Stoddard Lock Company, and sold by Messrs. Churchill and Co. The lock illustrated in Fig. 2 is what is termed by the manufacturers a cylinder
In Figs. 2, 3, and 4 are
Gay's patent,
far
is
it
lock with two tumblers, suitable for drawers and for other
easier
to
work
it
common
screwdriver,
purposes, for
wood from f
inch to
inch in thickness.
is
The
in using
which
is
that
no screws
An
inspection of the
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
engraving, in which the lock
is
449
5),
made on the
show
that
it is
perfectly
side,
same
from
on each
flat
in thickness.
The
face-
more
In
Though
per dozen.
made in different sizes as far as length is concerned, from f inch to 2i inches, the size being determined by the distance between the centre of the key-way and the under surface of the face-plate, the diameter of each side is the same ;
and to insert them in place in the wood, all that is necessary be done is to bore holes for the body of the lock, the faceplate, and the key -way, with regular size bits, one of \^ inch being used for the face-plate, /e inch for body of lock, and The modus operandi may be described ft inch for key- way
to
.
Drawer
this the
Pull, supplied
key-hole
is
middle of a square
to the
in
plate, which, of course, must be fastened drawer with screws, the ring-shaped handle is inserted the boss, apparently springing from it on either side of
the key-way.
The
price of the
Drawer
Pulls
is
14s.
per
dozen,
gilt
or nickel plated.
I daresay
at
The centre of the upper edge of the front of the drawer being determined, the point of the \\ inch bit is
as follows
:
and a hole bored just deep enough to receive the upper surface being flush with the surface of the wood. The ^ inch bit is then taken, and the hole is continued until it is deep enough to
inserted,
face-plate, its
mower. With the " Challenge Lawn-Mower Sharpener," sold by Messrs. Churchill and Co., at 4s. each, any man can sharpen his own mower without taking it apart, and further, it requires a few minutes only to sharpen a machine, which
can thus be always kept
cutting order.
in perfect
It is adjustable to
The
on the
boring
its
first
and
bit
preventing
far,
This appliance
Fig.
6.
is
downward
the
deep.
course too
even
if
in
The
is is
file
hole be
made
is
little
too
in
seen
The
lock represented
cylin-
the engraving
what
is
called
dis-
form,
and
is
held in
a 1-inch lock,
this
being the
place by
the top. the
file
a set screw
shown
at
By
is
under surface
carrier
measure-
the
file
properly adjusted to
ment of
made down
FIG. 6.
"CHALLENGE"
to be sharpened.
The
file
is
LAWN
three-cornered
file,
held in place
MOWER SHARPENER.
by a
set
By
key-way with a /, inch bit. Grooves are then cut in the hole made to receive the lock with a V chisel, or even an ordinary chisel or knife, the object of the grooves and the flanges of the lock that enter them being to bring the lock into its proper place, and
for the
means of the hook-shaped guide, shown at the bottom of the cut, to the left, and which is adjustable up or down, or may be swivelled either way, it can be adjusted to any of the lawn-mowers that are made. The gauge, which is worked by the large screw, shown to the
right, is
to prevent
line
it
exactly parallel
When
the sharpener.
When
properly adjusted,
it
is
in such a
been done the lock is merely thrust into its place, the key-way inserted, and the whole is ready for use. The key used for these locks is a flat piece of metal, properly
this has
the face
machine may be rapidly moved along of each knife, one after another, so as to sharpen
late for notice in the
foi
it is
far less
cumber-
June
Part,
"The
much
room
if
May an
Illustrated Journal
Each
lettered,
and
House Painter and Decorator, and all Art Workmen, Henry Vickers, 317, Strand,
Large and beautiful designs
for internal decoration,
replaced without any trouble, or extra keys supplied, by sending the letter on side of lock or key. The locks are made of brass, and are supplied with or without nickel
plating.
W. C.
ments
printed in colours,
and advertisein
treated,
and
this
I
also
produced
colours,
The
shown
in Fig. 2
articles
which
fin.
...
i|in.
...
2in.
...
2&in.
... ...
am
very re-
Brass,
...
13s.
13s.
17s.
14s.
16s.
18s.
20s. 23s.
compelled to reserve
my
...
18s.
...
19s.
...
21s.
another occasion.
"
45
AMATEURS IN
IN COUNCIL.
COUNCIL.
I in
AMATEURS
[The Editor reserves to himself the right of refusing a reply to any question that may be frivolous or inappropriate, or devoid of general interest. Correspondents are requested to bear in mind that their queries will be answered only in the pages of the Magazine, ihe information sought being supplied for the benefit of its readers generally as well as for those who have a special interest in obtaining it. In no case can any reply be sent by post.]
Tool Cupboard. Chips writes : In the bottom of an old book-case I fixed two rows of small drawers, divided for nails, screws, &c, and in the
top a shelf to hold small planes, beads, &c. The insides of the doors are covered with racks for chisels, gimlets, centre-bits,
pliers, &c.
reader the time that elapses between an announcement of this kind and the appearance of the article in question may appear somewhat long, but the illustrations have to be drawn and engraved, and the articles set, proof corrected by author, etc., and then the paper has to run the gauntlet in the way of being "crowded out" foramonth or two, an almost inevitable consequence with the number of subjects now in hand, and my earnest endeavour to meet the wishes of readers with regard to their respective hobbies, as far as it is possible and
practicable for
ask W. L. H. what was the Paint that he applied. Then let me remind him that preparations styled " Silicate "are, as the name implies (Lat. siler, flint), intended for external use, and for imparting a hard external coating to brick and stone, similar to that of varnish of wood and paint. There is a preparation for external use manufactured and sold by the Indestructible Paint Compy., which may be procured
i-ilicate
my turn
me to do so.
:
Other
Mr.
Bpokeshave, can be hung on hooks or nai's fixed in the body of the cupboard, and tbe bottom (which is just above the naildrawers) is available for jack and trying planes, mallet, or any other cumbersome The advantage of the above ararticle. rangement is that on opening the door
me
Violin Making. Taylor, writes " Will you allow a word in reply to Mr. Allen's remarks
J.
in the current
number
*
of
Amateur Wore,
every tool
is
seen at once.
Octopus Glue.
X. Y. Z. writes: In one of your back numbers you strongly recommended the above. I therefore sent for a bottle, and have used it only twice, and am more than satisfied. The first time on a heavy bloodstone paper-weight three-quarters of an inch thick, broken in two pieces across the middle. It is now as firm as a rock. The second time was on a heavy glass candelabra, with very
respecting the Outline of a Stradivari Mr. Violin* which appeared recently ? Allen produces the highest professional opinion that his outline is really that of a Stradivari,' but why select an admittedly small (probably an early or experimental) example of the maker. If Mr. Allen has made a? many fiddles as I have, he will not need to be told that even so apparently small a difference as \ or j\ of an inch is capable of having a very considerable effect upon the tone of the instrument. The direction of all Stradivari's efforts was to amplify rather tbau to restrict his model, and it appears to me therefore preferable to follow bis lead in that direction than to go back to the smaller forms of the earlier
'
treatment may be seen. I shall be glad to have the opinion of any reader on this coating who may have used it. I have not, so I cannot speak of it from experience. Unless bricks are tbe best that are made, I do not think their surface, which is for the most part rough and full of crevices, penetrating more or less deeply into the brick, can be disfigured by painting. The colour
of Pulford's Iron
Damp Paint for walls is chocolate, not an attractive colour for walls, I am free to admit, but then again the dark paint can be hidden under a third coat (two coats of the Iron Damp Paint should be
applied) of
the house
may
Beehives, etc.
W. B.(Darlinaton). With regard to "articles with drawings on the making of beehives and bee houses which would embrace all the latest improvements," I am ready to receive proposals from any competent writer on tbe
Meanwhile I must refer you to the paper on " A Cheap Bar Frame Hive," by Mr. Alfred Watkins, in Vol. I., page 111. Mr. Earnshaw has sent me another of his papers, which will appear in the August part, I hope. The wants of poor amateurs will never be neglected in this Magazine. I am only a poor amateur myself, and can sympathise with those who are in the same
subject"
position;
heavy top
this
was clean
broken in two in the thinnest part of tbe stem, but now seems as firm as a rock, and the break cannot be perceived. I cannot say how it would answer for sticking wood, as I have not tried it.
for Sale, In reference to tbe offer of harmonium reeds ma-le by L. G. L., in "Amateurs i'i Council," ia the May part of this Magazine, page 342, I am now in possession of L. G. L.'s address, which shall be forwarded to any applicant enclosing a stamped enve***
Harmonium Reeds
lop3 addressed
to himself.
P. S.
no
omit to touch on this in his papers on 'Brazing and Soldering" now appearing, yean while I give jou thefollowingmethod, taken from Spon's " Workshop Receipts, which mny be useful (o y.m. [" Procure a piece of charcoal, a blow-pipe, some spelter and borax; file tbe ends of the sow even, then file the side-? so that one side laps over the other; fit the teeth opposite each other, bind it with iron wire to keep in place, moisten tbe lap of the saw withborax, first dissolved in water, place the saw on the charcoal. The broken parts place by fide of a gas jet, sprinkle the parts previously wetted with the spelter, blow the flame of gas until the spelter runs, let it. get cool before removal when quite cold file it flat with tbe other part of the saw. To set tbe saw, drop ono side on the ground, the other side up, and set on eJge of tbe vice."
1 ;
Self-Acting Fountain for Aquarium. T. H. (Bilston). A paper on this subject fully illustrated is in my hands, and will appear very shortly. To an expectant
no stickler for hard and fast rules of thumb. On tbe contrary, I believe that instruments of the violin class of any size, from a kit to a double bass, could be constructed in an equally perfect manner if once the true principles ruling the relations of the parts one to another were formulated. This however has never yet been done, and if Mr. Allen proves himself the man to do it, I for one shall feel exceedingly grateful to him. There is nothing however in the platitudes and errors of his earlier chapters treating of what he chooses to call * scientific principles to encourage a hope for so desired a result. One word more. I fail to see the connection between orthography and the dimensions of a violin, and it is certainly not worth my while to discuss the relative wisdom (or folly) of Mr. Allen's lucubrations and my own. I am no novice in the matter, and it may surprise Mr. Allen to bear that he has himself quoted with evident approval, words of mine which were written more than ten years since." Pulford's Magnetic Paint. "W. L. H. (Oldham) is referred to the letter on this subject from Mr. S. Stanton Markham, F.R.I.B.A., District Surveyor of St. George's in the East, in Amateur Wore He cannot for June (Part XIX. page 4C0). have better or stronger testimony than this to the value of the paint. W. L. H. says, in reference to his damp wall, "I do not want to disfigure the wall by daubing on paint. My idea is there ought to be a sort of colourless or transparent paint which will fill up the pores of the brick, and I shall be pleased to hear of anything of the sort that will be a real cure. I may say that I have applied a patent Silicate Paint internally, but with no benefit." May
makers.
am
INFORMATION SUPPLIED.
Removal
of Ink Stains from Ivory.
G- E. writes in reply to H. A. D. (Belfast) : Dissolve one drachm of oxalic acid in a wineglassful of boiling water, moisten the stains with this hot solution, applied with a pad of rag, and absorb the moisture at once with a damp sponge.
'
'
'
Glass Blowing.
G. E. writes in reply to C. J. M. (Ireland): No flux of any kind is required Heat the two ends of the glass rod in the flame of a spirit lamp or that of a Bunsen burner, until the ends are white hot, then press them together, turn the rods around in the flame for a few moments and they will weld together. Anneal tbe joint by holding it near the flame for a few minutes, then rest it on a piece of wood in a warm place free from draught until the joint is
of wine glasses thus united, and, when carefully heated and joined together a neat job may be performed.
cold.
may be
Cheap Lathes.
Graham
writes
in
reply
to
J.
P.
Manudescribing what
good
article
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
Drilling Glass and
45*
protected from the dust until the size is tacky, then make a ball of cotton wool, dab it in the bronze powder and dab it lightly on the tacky surface of the figure until it has been evenly covered with bronze powder; then put the figure away again, protected from dust until the surface is quite hard. Again make a clean pad of cotton wool and with it brush off all loose particles of bronze powder, then give the whole article a coat of hard clear shellac, varnish and return it to its protected corner until the varnish is quite hard. Chemicus, in answer to '* E. L. J." (Birmingham), sends the following bronzing fluid Fuchsia, 10 parts, aniline purple, 5
:
CMna.
J. E. {Manchester) writes:- J; McC. can get sparks and drills for china and glass
in ordinary wire drawing, undergo the annealing process after each drawing through the die, but is drawn as stated above the
;
riveting from Mr. Coats, 21, Bootle Street, Manchester ; he supplied me, and I fonnd him reasonable in his charges.
result being that the metal becomes very hard and spring-like in its properties. In this it differs from cast steel wire, which is tempered in the snnie manner as tool
steel.
Exox
M. H.
J. E. L. (Oldham) writes in reply to H. : The wire used for spiral and other
Plymouth, for their " Rapid Bath Heater," by which yon can get a bath of 105 degrees in twenty minutes. The writer has one the
cost of
which was 6.
Utilization of
in reply to S. B. (Dublin). sewing machine stand will answer capimounting a fret saw on. For directally for
Graham writes
"Every
if
springs is usually known as " hard-drawn" wire ; it is useless for an amateur to endeavour to make it, as it may be obtained from any large wireworks, or no doubt from Mr. Cohen, Kitlcgate, Leeds, or a dealer in watch and clock materials. G. E. writes in reply to H. M. H. : Any tough brass may be made into spring wire by drawing it down from a larger size wire to a smaller and thus rendering it hard. Sheet or bar brass of good tough quality
parts,
a glue-pot,
methylated spirit, 100 parts. Put in and apply heat till dissolved. Then add benzoic acid, 5 parts. Then boil the whole for five or ten minutes, until the greenish colour of the mixture has changed
to bronze-brown.
in-
every reader of Amateur Work had and read would save many a query. [To this I may add that a well written and eihaustivo article ou this subject is now in .my hands, with illustrations which are in every way
calculated to form a useful and attractive supplement. This paper, which will appear
Casting and Moulding. G. E. writeB in reply to T. L.: White wax must be melted in a water bath over a source of heat free from smoke, and in a
perfectly clean vessel. Any smoke, or dirt, or over-heating will spoil the delicate tint of the wax. It can be bleached in thin
fiakes,
Wax
Dynamo-Electric Machine. Mr. Edwinson writes: Immediately on seeing the complaint of Willing to Help in the part for May, I wrote to Messrs. Patrick & Son for an explanation, and have
received the following in reply
"
B. in possession of all the information that he can possible desire or require on the subwill
S.
put
From
Messrs. Patrick
&
Son, ElectriS.W.
2nd, 1883.
"May
(<
bleached.
jectEn.]
Meteorological Instruments.
Chemtct/9, in answer to " T. H. H." (Ashford), sends the following instructions
for
Dear
Sir,
we have not
it
xpiuma
di
common
tle,
a e is a quart bot-
measuring
from a to b about
nine inches, c is a funnel to collect the rain, the top of which must be exactly the same width as the bottle from f to b c, composition
;
to our knowledge in any case omitted to reply to any enquiry enclosing remittance either in stamps or wrapper indeed, it is only when the enquiry is quite out of our line that we do not reply, even if return postage is not paid. We should therefore think that the mistake occurred in the post, possibly through mis-direction. " Yours truly, Patrick & Son." It will be seen that Messrs. Patrick have removed from the address given in page
464, Vol. I.,
it
would
air-
d, d,
ground
it
RAIN-GAUGE.
putty. When dry, brown paper must be pasted round it. When all is dry, place in the ground to the depth shown in diagram the top of the funnel just above the ground. The bottle must be examined every three months, and the number of inches of water carefully measured. The evaporation of water by this plan is Teduced to the minimum. In very dry weather the ground around it may be watered.
that sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol) cannot be sent by post, it is in fact a dangerous acid, injurious alike to clothing and skin when spilt ut on them. The acid must be mixed with water by pouring the acid carefully into water contained an earthenware or stoneware vessel, or one of enamelled iron. The mixture must be boiled in an enamelled iron saucepan, the old meat tin would be useless, for it would soon yield to the action of the acid. Water only must be added to make up for loss by evaporation.
Cutting off Top of Lamp Chimney. I. 0. H. (BaUymena) writes in reply to L. B. and C. M. (Willesden) : Try a fine hard steel fret-saw, kept wet with camphor dissolved in turpentine, and saw it off.
Cutting Bottom
E.
off
Glass Bottle.
(East Grinstead) in reply to CM, (Willesden) writes : Fill the bottle with oil up to the height at which you want it to break. Then gradually dip a rod of iron,
W.
heated to redness, into it, when the glass will fly, and the top-piece can be Lifted off.
W.
(Birmingham) Bronze powders of any shade may be 'bought at oil and colour shops and at tool shops. Paint the :figures with gold size, set them aside in a cool place
E. L. J.
Chiswell Street, E.C., will supply him with the small turned railing that he requires.
452
Design for Small Book-case. E. Johnston writes in answer to Apprentice
AMATEURS IN
ject 2 inches in the front
sides.
COUNCIL.
Bronzing Figures. T. (Ambleside) writeB in reply to E. L. G(Birmingham) : Dissolve platinum in 1 part nitric acid, 2 parts hydrochloric acid, and evapora*e to crystallization then dissolve the crystals thus formed in water, or, what is better, in spirit of wine or ether then mix a small quantity of this solution with sienna or crocus bronzing powder clean as much of the old bronze off as possible, then gently heat your figures before bronzing, apply the bronze with a moderate^ hard brush, lighten the projecting parts with a little liquid ammonia, applied with a small piece of chamois leather.
; ;
Merchant: This
boot-case
is
made
by naming all the pieces of wood which must be cut out ready to be put together. First, you will want two pieces of exactly the same size, which must be 20 inches long- and 8 inches wide; these are for the top and bottom. Then two pieces, 24 inches long and
entirely of inch-board,
and
I will begin
and 1 inch at the the same with the bottom, and the framework of the book-case is made. Now take the large frame that you have made, which, being the same height as the sides, will fit exactly between the top and the bottom, and nail it on to the sides, punching in all the nails, and filling the holes with putty. There are now only the doors remaining to be made. They must be mortised together in the same way as the large frame, and made of the four pieces 20 inches long by 1J inches, and the four pieces 7 inches by lh inches. The mortises will, of course, be smaller in proportion to the thickness of theframe. A similar rebate to that which you have made for the reception of the back must be made in the frames of the doors to receive the glass, which may be fixed in by a small beading. A piece of beading (see Fig. 5) is glued on the right
Do
Dissolving India-Rubber.
(East Grinstead) in reply to C. M. (Willesden) writes To dissolve indiarubber, put small pieces of it in a stoppered bottle, and then add either ether, bisulphide of carbon, naphtha, or chloroform. Keep the stopper loose till the india-rubber
:
E W.
^Ee
is
dissolved.
INFORMATION SOUGHT.
FIG.
4.
CEPTION OF BACK.
Cream making
Machine. Chips asks : Can anyone oblige me by giving any hints ae to making either of these
FIG. 5.
'fig.
SECTION OF
DOORS.
articles ?
i. elevation of book-case.
OvermanteL
"Will anyone favour me Chips asks with a good design for an overmantel, with small cupboards, glazed and unglazed?
:
6 inches wide, for the sides, and cut a rebate in the back edges of all these four pieces for the reception of back (see Fig. 4). You will want two pieces 24 inches by 2 inches, and two more 18 inches by 2 inches, for the outer frame, four pieces 20 inches by 1* inches, and four more 7 inches by \\ inches, for the doors, which fit inside the outer frame. The back need not be made of inch-stuff, half-inch being quite sufficient. This may be made of pieces glued together, and must be 25 inches by 17 inches. Having cut out all these pieces, we will now begin
shut, pro-
be required to ornament the side of the frame. Take a piece of wood 1 inch square and 22 inches long, plane it perfectly round, saw it in half, and glue it on, leaving 2 inches at each end for the reception of the head and feet (see Fig. 3), which you must get turned 2 inches square, and when sawn in half should fit exactly. The shelves are put in by nailing or screwing small strips of wood to the sideB, on which they rest, or they may be supported by small pegs fitted into holes bored half through the sides. The back must be nailed in before the doors and pillars are put on, so as to make the book-case
little pillars will
Also two
"Dead " Polish on Wood. Chips writes : Can anyone tell me how the dead polish now so much used is managed ? I have filled the pores of the wood with American wood filler, and then rubbed it well with linseed oil this has a fair effect, but not such a good one as I
;
should
like.
quite square.
FIG.
GUt
Cornice.
is
J. T. F. (Brixton)
Cleaning Oil Painting on Copper. "W- J. F. (Manchester) writes : I have an oil painting on copper, which, when it came into my possession, was covered with dirt. I have managed to remove sufficient of the dirt to show that the subject is " St. Anthony Preaching to the Fishes," but although on wetting the colours they come out bright and clear, when the moisture evaporates the film settles over them again. I shall be greatly obliged if you can give
directions for thoroughly cleaning the painting.
FIG. 3.
to put them together. First, take your four pieces for the outer frame, and mortise them as shown in Fig. 2, cutting the mortises \ inch broad and \\ inches long, leaving \ inch at the end. You must cut away \ inch of the tenons to correspond, which will bring the outer edges of the frame perfectly square
monger. There is another method of fixing which is now MODE OF FIXING more general than CORNICE. the above, namely A, Cornice B, Fixed a second lath simiLath C, Valance i^. tne valance
; ;
and level. Then take the top, and nail it on to the sides, taking care to keep the back flush, and allowing it to pro-
writers are held over for reply till next month for various reasons A. E. W. (Keynsham) ; H. E. G. (Beadingley); J. H. (Clifton); C. J. L. (King's
College)
;
Magneto
Graham
A.
W. K.
and
is
also
453
produced
their
dabbing or otherwise, if they have been These are of steel, and edge must be sharp and perfectly smooth, so as
in
V.APPARATUS
PROCESSES
71
1
72.
The
pointers
may
easily
be made
by the
Specially shaped scrapers, as in Fig. 36, presenting a point and a convex edge, are 2 in.,
student.
is
is.
6d.
3 in.,
is.
iod.
An
rally
moment. The Pointers shown in Figs. 30 and They are most gene31 (p. 302). serviceable when made of soft white wood, and
tain us but a
do
just as well,
the edge
quite
are shaped as
smooth.
the
I
are used for taking out points or patches of light which cannot or need not be left in painting. Sometimes a little spot of one colour is required to be put
RESTS.
These are contrivances designed to assist the painter by giving support to his arm, hand, or finger,
73.
HANCOCK'S VADE-MECUM
iUNTING DESK, OPEN.
in the centre of a not very large spot of another
for example, the yellow eye of
as,
a pink or blue forgetme-not. In this case, the whole space within the outline of the flower is painted with the ground colour, and then the paint is removed with the stick from the spot which is to take the colour of the eye. The circumstances of the moment will decide which shape is best adapted to the attainment of any particular Thus, a pointed stick would be used for taking end. out the light in the eye, while the markings of the trunks of some trees will be better aided by the edged stick (Fig. 31). These wooden tools are used before the paint dries. Sometimes more firmness than they furnish may be required, and for this recourse must be had to a bone pointer. The Scrapers will be wanted
occasionally to take out lines or points or patches of dried paint, or to remove smudges beyond the outline
and may be movable or fixed. They will not often be required in small work but in large work, or round work such as vases, a rest of some kind is an abso;
nishes
it
or satisfactorily
manage
in
the round.
Any
attempt to
in
dispense with
fatigue
74.
it
and
Arm
Rest.
In Fig. 29 (p.
rest
would be placed.
in.
convenience of the painter, the movable arm The rest itself consists ofaplain
piece of
18 to 24
wood about
long.
in.
wide, J
in. thick,
This rest
may be made
material, but,
mahogany
tage that
or oak.
it
from the strain on it, preferably of For my part, I think it an advanshould not be French polished simply
454
planed smooth, and rubbed with a little linseed oil to darken it. It is then less slippery. The attachment to the table is by means of a long bolt, with a head at one (the top) end, and at the other a screw on
which a butterfly-nut works. This bolt must be long enough to go through the rest, the table, and the nut, and then project about an inch below the nut. The
object of this excess is to allow of the nut being screwed out, when, of course, the end of the rest which is on the table being less confined, the outer end will drop in consequence of the weight of the arm on it. This drop is often of the greatest convenience and The hole in the table need only relief to the painter. be large enough to take the bolt. That, however, in
such rest must be pierced, is shown in the desk of which two views are given in Figs. 42 and 43. With this desk (which is Mr. Hancock's design) any suitable room may at once be converted into a study.
for
Its interior
is
sufficiently capacious to
hold
all
the
apparatus and working appliances required, and has proper receptacles for the mediums while below is a
;
drawer which takes the colours and brushes. The upper part is a flat ledge, which takes the palette, etc., during work. The lid forms a slope, on which flat
ware
may
rest
and on the
left it
projects 4
in.,
the
projection forming an
longer than
75.
it is
The
Arm Rest is
used thus
on the edge of which Altogether, it is a most convenient is the finger rest. arrangement, and with it there can be no possible excuse for dust or dirt, as the work in hand may find a place inside as well as unconsumed prepared colour.
arm
rest,
The
is
made
of
Then, having his plate, or tile, or vase in his left hand, and resting on his knee, he places his right forearm on the rest, where it is completely steadied, and he is at perfect liberty to direct his hand without having to support the weight of his arm. The rest being on a pivot, he can move it at will, and thus work most easily on any part of the piece, which may be of any size. By means of this rest stooping is entirely done away with. In Figs. 27 and 38, two sectional views
of this rest are given.
tight
;
price,
empty,
is
20s.
Fitted, the
The dimensions
in.
;
full
height,
lid,
"]\ in.
;
length, 14
width, 8
in.
width of
key.
12 in,
In the
first
it is
shown
fixed
is
79.
we saw how
to
produce
is
in the other,
slackened down.
In Fig. 39
is
our design on the ware as a preliminary to the laying on of colour, for as soon as the colour
shown
76.
mixed
rest,
which
most simple
it
should be used.
It will
;
and inexpensive to make, is represented in Fig. 40, and has this further in its favour, that a hole need not be made in the table. It consists of a middle upper
first
it is
some 18 in. long and 3 in. wide, with ends which give a clear height of 2 in. from the table. It may be cut out of any piece of wood, as shown in Fig. 41, and the two ends glued and nailed to the long piece. The arrangement is thus a bridge, which crosses the ware, and the hand rests on it immediately above the piece. The only disadvantage is, that as the rest must lie on the table, the use of it
piece
necessitates a
be deteriorating, unless the painter is also a skilled draughtsman. 80. Having, then, produced our design on the
ware,
we proceed
to
As
to the
more or
Rest.
To
buy,
pigment requires varying proportions, according to the end sought. It may be said generally that the ordinary blues, rose, and purple take most "fat," and
the yellows the least.
the price
77.
is
about
2s., in
Finger
to
More
fat,
again,
flat,
is
required
It is
a
is
when
it
is
as in back-
small
slip of thin
when
screwed
arm
rest,
and, as
name
It moves easily on the screw as its pivot, and, when not required, may be turned round on to the arm rest, where, being thin, it in no way interferes. It is shown, at A, as part of the desk in Fig. 42.
dabber a process to be presently considered is contemplated or to have the colour flow to a very slight, perhaps only just appreciable extent, as in delicate shading; or to lay a very thin tint. Practice and
;
perceive
special
when
in
the colour
work
hand.
78.
Painting
Dcs7;.
An
arm
There
is
more
failure
among
OVERGLAZE PAINTING ON PORCELAIN.
beginners from want of rightly estimating the exact quantity of oil to be used than from any other cause,
45 S
If
tube
oil
colour
and therefore
strictest
observance of
my
have seen
(Y.) Moist Welter Colour. This requires no grinding or other preparation, simply dilution with water, although some may derive a little help from the addition of a touch of china megilp. This megilp
{a.)
Powder
to
it
Colour.
tion
is to
and add
may be
megilp
just so
much
oil
as will
make
it
that
be subsequently reduced to the requisite thinness by spirit. A good illustration of the relative consistence of the paste and the prepared paint is furnished by cocoa, which, as bought prepared with milk in tins, is such a thick paste, and should be diluted to a cream before the boiling milk is poured on it. For my part, however, I have found that a mixture of oil and spirit say two parts of the former and one of the latter is better than oil alone ; as it takes a quicker and better
may be
may be
I
is
less liability to
is
make
the
ground more readily and satisfactorily. Thus there is a saving of time, and very often, too, of powder for, if the colour be made too fat, the evil can only be remedied by the admixture of more dry powder, which may mean much avoidable waste. Whether, however, pure or diluted
;
oil is
used,
it
may
be laid
down
be
sufficient
have already commented, viz., the necessity of cleanliness. Oil colour can and may, without showing, be laid on a surface not as clean as it might be, and it may be sent on to the kiln, and theti show up the stain ; but with water colour it is a sine qua 71011 as regards success in laying, that the ware should be scrupulously clean. To such a surface, however, it takes very kindly, even in the thinnest washes. Further, the outline must be in Indian Ink. The chalk, being greasy, would grease the brush, and the water colour, instead of lying flat, would ridge and spot. S2. Tests for Proper Mixing. If the colour has been properly mixed, it may be laid qv .e evenly with very little practice. The very first difficulty which the student will experience in his endeavour to lay the paint arises from the nature of the surface, which, being glassy and perfectly polished, affords no tooth
The grinding will be done on the slab with the muller. There will be a tendency This for paint to collect on the edge of the muller. paint must be set in to the centre of the muller again, so as to ensure all being equally ground. This should be done with the proper palette knife, and not with the brush, as if the latter is used it will take up particles of colour, which will show a different depth
capacity of the medium.
for
either
will
with
oil
paint,
no washing
If
in
tint in
the
same sense
as on
paper.
sufficiently to
and give a spotty appearance. When the colour has been ground with oil and spirit in which state we may call it to a cream on the slab
of tint in the work,
prepared coloar
to
it
were diluted with oil be flooded on to the tile, it would not produce a uniform tint, unless one too light to be generally serviceable and if spirit were the major diluent, the individual grains of pigment would separate, and the surface wou'd be speckled, and present the appearance of common maps coloured by printing in dots We will therefore notice one or two tests.
prepared colour
;
the wells,
will
will
be removed be diluted to
painting
(a.)
During-
IVor/i.
trial
should be
of the piece in hand, or better, because more cleanly, One cannot too frequently on some slip of ware.
test the
when The
colour
is,
If freedom of working of the mixed colour. yet so far from slipping as to appreciably hold the ware giving a smooth, fine, unbroken line, or, when pressed, an even and regular
to be diluted.
oil
When, however,
band, the colour, as a basis, contains the right proIf the colour cannot be laid portion of medium.
collects in
a hard mass.
one part or oozes out, leaving the pigment This is the worst of many of the French colours ; but in Hancock's moist oil colours the evil, such as exists, is minimized by their being
makes heavy ridges at each side of the brush mark, leaving only a faint tint in the middle, and other strokes on the ridges only continue the
evenly, but
appearance, too
much
oil
45 <5
remedy
adding
If
the
grains of pigment
spirit,
it
become
is
remove all roughness and jaggedness. The part which had been spoiled is then repainted to match,
care being taken,
if
is
a sign too
much
spirit
has been
if
a quite
flat tint is
wanted, to
tint
make
further indicated
a touch
up
for
any
irregularities of
depth of
produced by
of the brush on the ware results in a ring with the colour tending towards the edge, or colour dries
flat
if
a brush
overladen with
touches
still
wet
work, such
constituent to precipitate.
work
the
will
be more or
less spoiled
by the spread of
energy among the
spirit,
which
will
expend
its
surrounding colour, and quite destroy its "lay." If such an accident should occur in a graduated tint, the probability is that the whole tint would have to
relaid.
After Firing. The foregoing tests show themselves while the work is in progress. There are others which appear after the work has been through
the muffle.
It is
will
be a
trifle
flat,
and, of course,
prepared with
tine
tar oil
and
some books on this successful, and gone bravely through its fiery ordeal. Such a result is, of course, gratifying to all concerned, but it is not always forthcoming and the object of
;
and
turpenwill
while
least
inconvenience
of
all
be
All
prepared
oil
colour should be
It is
second day.
is
guide
I
if
(c.) will
Water.
In
so far as they
colour.
of the
has gone to
much
If
This result
it
Section 32,
p.
234.
if it
hardens by keeping
it
will
powdery look, with the colour scarcely adhering enough to keep itself from being rubbed off, it shows that, in working, the colour has been over diluted with
turpentine, though not to the extent separating.
Very
little
practice will
show
how much
taken from
of the grains
This will, probably, be the result if the ware has been sent to the kilnafrj, as described in the last paragraph. These considerations furnish the
for a thin tint the diluent
them cannot be replaced. What has been taken from the pans, however, can and may be put back again, provided it has not been touched by any other colour.
proof of the reason for the former requirement, that must have a larger propor-
MONOCHROME STUDY.
85. Having got thus far, we are in a position to do something by way of actual work, and, accordingly, I give with this a simple study of flowers and leaves
The remedy for the dryness is simply repainting, using a little more oil with the colour, and a very little enamel glazing. The remedy
tion of oil than of spirit.
a
is
couple of
lily
and in practice would only be adopted if the painting were worth the trouble. Still, even if a rough piece of work has
for the blistering
is
and a
leaf
and There
no background
it
It is in outline,
blistered,
am
it
is
worth while
so that
86.
may be
if
fit
readily transferred.
trying the
remedy on
Preparation.
tile
The picture
will
look best on an
8-inch
reproduced actual
a 6-inch one.
size,
but
may be
down
the irregularities.
reduced to
smoothness is given. Of course, as the boiling up has given the walk a pitted appearance, this rubbing down, if the coat of paint has been thick,
ways already described, taking care that the outline for water colour must be Indian ink on z/7zprepared ware. A monochrome Having done this, mix colour.
is
all
not any
it
may
it
must
but in
china
painting
is
45
denote shadows,
In monochrome,
is
shadows.
a
It will
be advisable to make
may be
permis-
sible
Some of the prettiest even in colour work. Dresden work is in monochrome rose, en a canary Still, there are many colours which yellow ground.
medium
shade,
deeper shade,
and a
full
shade.
FIG.
44.-
-MONOCHROME STUDY FOR CHINA PAINTING LILIES OF THE VALLEY, FORGET-ME-NOT, AND PELARGONIUM.
may be shaded
second
firing, it
when
this
can
Indeed,
all
monochrome may
For our present
of all perhaps the
be finished
in
the
one painting.
It is
is
tints of
red for
and a medium
tint for
the next
depths.
this
will
It
and
The full tint of red will not be required in mixed scheme, while the tints of the two browns be from medium to fulness, and light tints gf
458
them
be out of place.
very
trifling
amount of
The
greatest care
must
when
a slight mixture of
red and Brunswick, and Brunswick and chocolate, will be advisable, and this will give good instruction also as to the tints which arise from mixture between any two of the three colours which are all of the same character, and therefore may be safely mixed. For the size of the copy a No. 6 or 7 brush will be a very good size for the lily leaves and the pelargonium
leaf.
be taken so to tone as to preserve the roundness of the flower. The pelargonium petals have a decided
tint
petal
The remainder
This
is
very
faint,
effect
may
size
be produced thus paint the well-toned half, then with a dry brush carry the colouring from the inner edge of that half down to the centre. The colour must be a little oily for this, and a dry brush
easily
will
flower,
2
and for the myosotis and lily or 3, which will also do for the
I
Note
leaves
87.
should say a
Painting.
flat
brush.
For
will
this use
a fine pencil.
The
(a.)
The Leaves.
points
forget-me-not
flattish tints,
petals
affords
some noticeable
filled.
china
painting.
delicate
The
lily
full
strokes of the
treatment.
Do
brush, well
The
better
cannot.
easily be
let
the work be a
point to stem,
much
it
may
to
no protint, which
is
removed with
must be taken
do
this gently, so as
88.
will
be painted over.
it
If
will
The study
an insight
to
This finishes our little subject for the present. will not have offered much difficulty to a
into
will
show through
leaf,
suffi-
generally "
be taken
paint
is
handy " hand, while it has served to give some half-dozen manipulations peculiar
to china painting.
The
tile,
when
dry,
may be
sent
be
fired,
and
if
remeve what
turpentine.
beyond
the edge
may
or
be framed.
with
spirit
of
{To
be continued.')
from the edge outwards, and not along the edge, as this would leave a fine line of deeper tint, which would give the edge a hard look. In this leaf there are light veins. These may be made out in two
effected
ways.
may have
its
a light coat
first,
then,
down
to the
this
tint
coat
is
dry,
VI. FINISHING,
HIS
the lines
soft
first taken out. This procer.s gives a very appearance to the veins. Second, the veins may
be gone over with a fine brush just damped, not wet, with spirit. This lightens the first-laid coat exactly
branch of bookbinding the amateur find most difficult, and, as a rule, There is the one the amateur fails in. are certain conditions the amateur must strictly observe before it can be said
will
that he
or, in
is
able to finish a
book
is
on the lines of the veins, but it requires more care than the other way. The forget-me-not leaves are
simple,
(6.)
and take the plain brush stroke. The Flowers. Those of the lily and of the
The
chief condition
is
forget-me-not over
the various degrees of heat required for the various But of this further on. The colours and leather.
materials required are
:
This
may be done
is
is
moist,
has dried.
The former
The gold
cushion, knife,
in
operation
the easier
finer result
may be
obtained.
The
little
extra
edge gilding. Various size Type. The type used in binders' shops are those made from brass but the amateur will find those made from lead (printers' type) quite suitable, but great care must be exercised lest the
BOOKBINDING FOR AMATEURS.
type melt
459
when placed
or.
full
may
then be melted
down by any
:
The holder, or tyj>e-case,best adapted amateur is one with a screw at side and end so as to admit of the various-sized type being used (Fig- 33)Price from 7s. 6d. Gas Stove. A gas stove of some sort is now to be found in almost every house. Any one of these may be utilized, providing that the flame from the gas plays enough upon the tools to impart the necessary heat. The circular stoves with a rim round them are the best (Fig. 34), and should it be necessary for the amateur to buy one, it can be purchased from any gas-fitter's shop. A small gas stove the amateur will find very handy with it he can warm his glue, make his paste,
Type-holder.
for the
Varnish
may
be purchased at
all
prices
it.
use only
for selling
is. 6d.,
Zaehnsdorf,
name
and a small
bottle, costing
many
other
Varnish should only be used on that part where glaire has been applied, and has afterwards been polished with the iron, the object being to keep the brilliancy and to preserve the leather from the ravages of flies and other insects, which are attracted by the glaire these pests do great damage to the covers of books which have been
very long time.
;
convenient uses.
coal
Where
gas
is
prepared with
glaire,
by
their eating
it off.
may be
used.
A large
may be
utilized
;
large holes through the sides it will keep alight for hours, and impart quite enough heat This primitive stove must for any purpose required. be placed on a stand or thick iron lest it become
by making some
some sweet
and gold.
Finishing
classes
blind
As a
those for
used for blind work are gold are cut much finer
dangerous.
Pallets,
and are well shaded some tools, however, work equally as well for the one as for the other.
Two
To
calf,
is
first
Rolls are circular discs mounted on a carrier, with ornamental designs engraved upon the edge they are used on the sides of books. (Fig. 36.) The amateur should have a small pattern one to run round the edge of the paper or cloth sides, and as he progresses others The for more ornamental and full-bound work.
;
the tool
slightly
warmed, now make the leather damp the tool made warmer is again impressed exactly on the same spot this is repeated a number of times, thus
;
singeing or burning as
it
only, until
is
it
has assumed
its
method
is
shown
in Fig. 32.
dark brown.
It
same
back of a
a
of ornamental designs.
The Polishing
glaired, is
when
edge.
small press
is
used
shown
in Fig. 37.
Glaire
may be
purchased, or
may
be made from
up
to
amongst the
white.
little
ammonia
putrid, as
it
will in
it is
it
from turning
clear
amateur to have. The amateur will find the pallets most difficult to use, Should he have much or rather to work straight. trouble, by placing a strip of thick paper or vellum across the back and running the sharp edge of a folding-stick alongside, a straight mark will be made, In this mark to be used as a guide for the pallet. using a pallet, hold it firmly in the right hand, and let the working motion proceed from the wrist only, as if
finishing press, but this is not for the
it
liable to do.
When
to stand for
some
hours,
were a pivot. A little practice is all that is needed. Should the tools have any tendency to stick to the
leather, rub
or leather
upon
on the leather. to wipe off the surplus gold from the back or sides of a book. It should be prepared by having some oil well worked into it, so that when it has been wiped over the back or sides the surplus of gold may adhere and remain in it. This rag, when
ing
it
firmly
make
the tools
slip,
or rather
A gold rag,
Should a roll be used for any flat surface, such as a side, and should the roll have a running or continuous pattern, a mark should be made upon
them burning.
file,
first
comes
same
flower or
40o
scroll
<?fi>e(iepeficpep e$ *y?c&?i*vflWQi
l
very
little.
Choose some
suitable tool
place
is
working.
to
It
impossible for a
it
exactly that
may be worked
be cut so from
bands
back,
work
on the
any point
out doubling
Another method of
this case,
is first
Now
water,
wash the back with vinegar and and brush it well with a hard
it
to
smoke
it,
it is
The
dry,
leather in this
AMATEUR
method must be
WORK
VOL.1
The impressions made by the pallet and tool are now to be pencilled in with glaire when dry, pencil in
;
another coat
g3$S
FIG. 34.
Jkfig. 33.-
rOLISHIXG IRON.
When
Gold work
if
is
far
more complicated
it
cut
will
be better
my
reader
roan,
practises
calf,
pieces of
Now
take a
pad of cotton wool, grease it by drawing it over the head or down the
it
Suppose a half morocco book is before us to be neatly finished and lettered take a broad and narrow, or two line
:
slightly
on
and
transfer the
pallet of a
work
it
covered
for
a guide for finishing in gold. As the impression need be but very slight, warm the pallet on the gas-stove but
Ts
c5 eJ3 35
EXAMPLE OF FINISH-
461
it
make
the
space
truly,
is
intended to
all
fit;
when
cut
it
second adhere. When all the impressions are covered with gold leaf,
take one of the tools, heated to such
round, paste
**P*
FIG. 39.
a degree
is
that,
when
it
a drop of water
instantly
work
may
be
impressions
worked
in again.
on the place and rub well down, placing a piece of paper over it to prevent the folder marking it when FIG. 40. -TOOL rubbing. Care must be taken that the SUITABLE FOR BLIND AND piecing leather does not project over GOLD WORK. the joints. When dry, marks may be made on the back with a folding-stick, as a guide for pallets and other tools. Now paste the whole of the back with the paste brush, and with a thick folding stick, or handle of
well,
an old tooth-brush,
rub the paste into
the leather; before
it
simple finish-
take
off with
a sponge
in
dipped
thin
more
diffi-
paste water.
Much
ing a
full gilt
back
may be
It
is
attempted.
not
always
and,
things,
above
remember
who
to
that
is
to
have everything
clean
paste water,
ground
dry,
is
size. glaire,sponges,
finishing
etc.
Whenthepaste
say
few
water
marked previously
with a folding-stick
as a guide
that
is is
perfectly
in about
one hour's
all
time,
take
some
required
but
the
amateur
had
as
it
better
work
bought at any oilshop (one pennyworth will last some time), melt it in a pipkin with a little water, and apply it
tice.
FINISHER
it
AT WORK.
to
morocco
being porous,
re-
Calf
with a very soft sponge, very evenly, over the back. When dry, give two coats of glaire, the first must be
dry before the second is applied, and great care must be taken that the sponge does not go over the same place twice while damp, or the first coat will be taken
away;
when
quite dry
it
will
be
but a better
ready for finishing. Cut the gold to the proper size, take it up on a cotton pad, and lay it carefully down on the
spot
gilt
it
on the variously coloured backs. For lettering pieces take morocco of any colour, according to fancy, and having wetted it to facilitate the work, pare it down as thin and as evenly as possible. Cut it to size of the panel or
is
intended to gild
all over.
if
full
back,
A little
41. TOOLS, CORNERS AND CENTRE, SUITABLE FOR GOLD
FIG.
back
WORK
ONLY.
462
lay a small piece of gold
leaf over
it.
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
it,
breathe on
the
first
gold,
Now
RUSTIC
By
1Y,
CARPENTRY.
work the
ARTHUR TORRE.
various tools chosen on the back, the heat to be that the tools hiss
when placed
When
the backs are finished, rub the gold off with gold
rag,
USTIC
more
PORCHES. Few
either to the
things
add
and
clear off
india-rubber.
Lettering.
a type-case of
:
I shall,
a type sufficiently large and suitable to the book the chief word of the title should be in somewhat larger
18,
the material
still
than the rest, the others diminishing, so that a In order pleasant arrangement of form be attained. to adjust the length of the words, it may be necessary
size
supposed
of the
fir
to
be employed
is
larch, or
kind.
to
that
is,
to put
between each
letter a
Make
understand from the illustration the method of construction. A few points only will require explanation.
posts against the wall should be made of which will fit more readily to the masonwork than whole poles, and will be more securely
half
stuff,
The two
them against a flat surface before tightening the screw they must be exactly level one with another, or in working some of them will be invisible. If the book is half-morocco, work the letters in blind first as
of
;
a guide,
damp
masonry merely,
is
at all times a
when dry, pencil in the impression twice with glaire, and work them in gold. Should the book be in calf binding, lines are made across the back by placing a thread of fine silk across the back. The lettering is
marked, and the centre letter against the mark. When the back is finished, it may be polished with the polishing-iron, which must be perfectly clean and bright before it is used. Prepare a board from an old calf binding, by rubbing some fine emery and lard over the leather side by rubbing the iron over this prepared surface it wiil
also
;
way
of fastening
woodwork
is
to a
to
make a
wooden
is
hole with
or chisel,
nail.
and
to drive in a
plug to which to
this purpose.
It
Elm makes
this line
Warm
the iron a
little
more
that
is,
if
too hot,
and give
be quite
it
To use the iron, hold it lightly, an oblong circular motion over every make
the polisher glide easily
But this by the way. Of the sides, I have shown the lower portion filled with closely-fitted woodwork, and the upper portion left almost open. The lower part is, of course, most exposed, and requires shelter most the upper being to a great extent protected by the eaves. But if as in some situations it may be it is an object to shelter the doorway as much as possible, the design may be varied by carrying the close woodwork to the top. This, however, will have rather a heavy look, and a middle course might be better. In Fig. 19 is a design for the side of a porch, in which the upper part is, to a great extent, filled with lattice-work of rough bangles.
least liable to split.
;
This,
if
will,
without looking
The whole may now be varnished by means of a small pad of cotton wool.
be required. Surrounding the pediment in Fig. 18 I have shown a cornice of fir cones, fixed with brads to the pieces of half-stuff, which hide the rafters and boarding of the
heavy, give as
shelter as can often
roof.
will
much
A blind
cloth or paper
a slight
press
When fir cones come in the way, the worker always do well to take care of them. They may
good
effect in
tween boards and book, and our book may be said to be done. I have not entered too deeply into the art of bookbinding, but sufficiently to enable
successfully their
at
combination with
rustic-work.
It is
means
I
my
readers to bind
difficulty arise
own books.
shall
Should
any
point,
some
have spoken of thatch as the only covering which goes really well with rustic-work. If the cottage to which the porch is added be a thatched one, the question is, of course, at once answered but in very few instances, at the present day, is this likely to be the
of roofing a rustic porch.
;
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
case. If the house be slated or tiled, a thatched porch would look incongruous. Slates are, and always must be, the reverse of ornamental and, besides,
;
463
might be varied by
within the
both
slates
and
tiles
will,
to
vanized iron, makes for practical purposes a reasonably good roof, and
main framework in the same manner. Five feet six inches would be a proper height for the posts of such an arch above- the ground-line, and I have supposed the example given to be 2 feet 3 inches
deep
:
may be
from decorative. When compelled by circumstances to use such a roof, I have got over the difficulty by making a trellis of small wood to rest an inch or two above it, and as the house was covered with vine, the growth of a single season enabled both zinc and wood-work to be completely hidden and to make the porch appear on the outside to have no covering but one of greenery. This green covering to the metal had a further advantage. Sheet metal grows disagreeably hot in sunshine the living canopy shaded and kept it cool and this was not only advantageous to those who might sit under it, but also to the roof itself. Sheet metal, and more particularly zinc, has a tendency to warp and twist when much heated by the sun; and by shading it, this evil was to some extent obviated. In the illustration I have indicated tiles as the roofing used, and indeed, in most cases, they are to be preferred wherever thatch is inadmissible. They can be had to match in colour with a slated roof, and, at the same time, of ornamental shapes. There need be no great difficulty as regards fixing them, if the arrangement used in the design before us is adopted.
;
by anyone
far
As a
that a
falls to pieces,
before
is
possible to get
it
it
well
covered
creepers.
And
summer-house or a porch,
ex-
posed
it and prevents drying. Yet rusticwork has so greatly the advantage over iron in appearance, that I presume few persons of good taste would make it give place to the latter. The above objections should, however, warn us to use only wood of the most enduring kind at our command for this
purpose.
Step-Stiles.
In
made
;
The
sawn
sides
boards.
The boards
tiles
are
and picturesque than a step-stile and there are cases where, as a mere matter of utility, it has advantages over every other mode of ingress and Such a stile is, of course, intended for occaegress. sional use only, and no one would think of placing it at the ordinary entrance but where occasional convenience only is required, the owner may feel no inclination to cut an opening through a good and
effective
;
more
liable to warp.
On
can be nailed
simple than
sound fence, or his landlord may object to such an opening being made. A step-stile enables him to
bridge over the
the fence
is left
by anyone
the operation
them on
much more
difficulty.
By
that of fixing
laths.
intact,
and no danger
incurred of
Wooden shingles of, say, 10 by 4 inches, will also make a suitable roof for our purpose and whether
;
to. Its edge can be concealed by a strip of half-stuff. Within, it can be lined and hidden with mosaic or bark, for which it will form a good ground. Garden Arches are rarely built, except as supports for climbing plants and as they are intended to be covered and hidden as soon as possible, much
;
Fig. 21 is a stile designed for spanning a tolerably wide hedge and ditch its length from end to end being 12 feet. The highest step in this stile is 5 feet above the ground line its 'total height to top of rail;
;
ing
is
8 feet.
is
The
elevation,
2 feet 3 inches.
is
All that is required is that they should be generally pleasing in outline, and so far decorative as not to be unsightly in the interval which
The manner
in
them
is
characteristic
way
picturesque from
have sketched an arch which will be all points of view. I have shown it
fir,
is by boring auger holes through them and the pieces beneath, and driving pegs. Care must of course be taken to make the pegs of welj-
than by nailing,
464
seasoned wood, or they
shrink
will
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
and
become
it
loose.
driven not be
off
desirable
neatly.
to
trim
them
They look
left
better with
projecting
This adds to
picturesque
the
rude
and
appearance of strength.
bridge
is
The
whole structure strengthened and bound together by the diagonal braces from post to This post, shown in Fig. 24. erection is supposed to be
wholly
formed
of larch,
or
some
similar wood.
given
the
in
Fig.
25.
Apart
from
decorative
wood, crossing at
right
almost
angle,
pieces fixed
steps,
form the stile. In the have ornamental railing I used a mixture of straight fir
shall
some designs
for fences
and various
ture, as
articles
of what
furniin,
and
embellishment
the garden.
{To be continued.)
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
466
THE
THE VIOLIN
Bu
:
VIOLIN:
IT.
HO IV TO MAKE
IT.
above by common-
HOW
TO MAKE
sense to the outline you have chosen, or by comparing Its position the fiddle from which you are copying.
V,THE BELLY,
will
is
then be as follows
HE BELLY. Your
still
From
b' to b",
t'o
1
inch.
From E
to e',
f',
tV inch.
\l
c' to c",
F to
and
and the other flat. You will commence by marking out on its arched surface the//holes by giving its
touch as follows.
In p. 253, are given
to d',
z\
model the
last
any single, or pair of, //holes. If the belly from which you are copying is detached from the instrument, and you have copied its two// holes as described in p. 253; having traced down
directions for copying
These measurements are of course taken from the Supplement and Fig. 38, but if another model is being worked upon, an intelligent workman will easily adapt them the difference being probably only in the lengths of the lines D d', e e', and F f'. The//holes being marked, now put the finishing
;
viz.,
the sinking
your parchment the centre line, or join of the belly, and having transferred it to a leaf of wood (not more than T'5 or ^6 f an ncn thick) cut it down the exact centre line with a sharp knife, so as to produce the
'
all
the//
model represented
working
size
The
ex-
as follows
model of an
It is
between them and the edge) and indicated on Fig. 38 by the slight shading on the right hand side. This is a hardly perceptible groove, beginning in the lower bend of the/ extending just as far as shown by the shading, and so "melted" into the arching already given to the belly, as not to be noticeable unlooked
for.
corresponding with the outline, etc., represented in Sitpplemcrit (Part XVII.). In this an/hole is drawn;
but only to indicate which half of the outline repreIn Fig. 3S, A A' a' represents A B, sents the belly.
the line
less
Its
depth
will
be
to a certain extent
diagram in Supplement, the centre join of the belly, A A A A is the plank model of your / hole as cut out, and with its flat side set to coincide with the the figure shows its exact position on the line a' a' A nick, b, is belly, shown by the dotted outline C C. cut in the flat side of the model, exactly opposite the inner cuanny (g) of the /hole. The belly represented measure from the in Supplement is I4j inches long top, down the centre line (which should be marked with pencil for convenience) 7f inches (or from the bottom, 6-, s6 ) and make a little mark. Now set the nick
in
;
;
actly lies
B of Fig. 38 at this mark, and see that the line a' a' exon the line A B. The model is on such thin
it, it
will
bend and
lie
close on
the arching of the belly. Take a very fine pointed pencil, and holding the model firmly on the belly with
the 'groove you ran round the sides (Fig. 33). It must be begun with a l: melted " into the arching with the flat gouge, smallest curved plane, and finished off (like the rest fie careful in doing of the belly) with the scraper, holes this, not to obliterate the marking of the (except at the inner side of the lower round hole of the/ which cannot help being gouged away, but can be at once remarked) and particularly be careful of the raised edges of the fiddle, which are in considerSo bear in mind able danger during this operation. in this, as in all the stages of your work, the motto " Cavendo tutus." When the scraping is finished, you will give your tables a rub all over with medium sandholes which will paper, and then re-mark your have got partially obliterated by the handling of the When they are rebelly since they were traced. marked, punch out their round holes in the following
//
//
to the belly
and your//holes are marked on your belly. if you are not following the model in Supplement, or if you wish to use some other/hole (say one of those on p. 103) trace it from there, or with a dirty finger or glove, as described on p. 253, and set and mark it on the belly, according to the relative dis. tances it should hold on the belly and which are planned out by the dotted lines on Fig. 3S. You will have to
Now,
manner Take the two piercers (or/hole punches, Fig. 32), and setting the bigger of the two exactly in the centre of the lower circle of the/ hole (which it will not quite fill), and holding exactly underneath it a small block of wood to press against, press the punch firmly into the wood, twisting it at the same time, so as to cut out a little disc of wood. You need not punch right through, but no harm is done if you do indeed, the
:
flat
to
Repeat the
mark
THE VIOLIN:
upper holes
in the
HOW TO MAKE
cut out in the
(h)
IT.
467
latter.
You must be
punch
upper
is
exactly before
f hole,
Fig. 38.
circles.)
same manner. If you chip off a corner beyond hope of repair, or lose the piece, you must remedy it by cutting the angle at I sharper and that at H more obtuse, and making the opposite_/ similar. But it will be a thousand pities if you mar the symmetry of your belly by such a mishap, so guard against it by always cutting against the grain in the
direction
pieces or discs of
wood
in so
by means
H to I, and never I to H. (Fig. 38.) The ff holes being cut out, they will serve
;
as a
so with
which is begun in the same way as the back, placing the arched side downwards on the cloth, and the edge against the beam and you will gouge it in a similar manner, so as to have it \ inch thick all over. Be very careful how you cut, for this belly pine is as tender as cheese under the chisel, and before you know where you are, you will find yourself through the plate, and an irremediable injury done. If in an unguarded or absent moment you cut it too thin, you must take one of the thick shavings which fits the gouge mark which has gone too deep, glue it in neatly, and when dry go on with the operation. When this has gone as far as it is safe to go with the gouge, take the sharpest and finest curved oval plane, and plane over the entire inside of the belly most carefully, till all the gouge marks have faded into the plane furro ws. You may then cut your ff holes, which at present are only punched out as above described. They are cut out with a very fine bladed knife, which is introduced from underneath as you hold the belly with your hand against your body. Begin by cutting round the lower circle, so as exactly to conform to the pencil marking, then cut the lower curve of the f, always catting against the grain a7id inwards, i.e., towards the centre join of the -plate ; otherwise, you will infallibly split off the corner of the " wing " (h in Fig. 38), and such a mishap is almost irremediable. If you do have an accident, and can preserve the tiny bit chipped off, glue it on at once, wedging it in its place by means of shavings set in the lower circle of the f. When you
;
Now commence
them
aries,
inside the
till
they are
which represents the inside view of the belly: At the centre, A A, it must have a substance of (just over less) at the I inch) it must only just thin off (say edges marked CCCC, and must be a shade thicker just
;
^ ~
B.
correct
any
faults or
may
be found round
the
ff
their
shape in any way. You can now shape your bar, and
affix
it
to the
marking
its
follows
It will
work
at the inside.
Make
marks
at
of the belly
2,
F.
3 small at the
1,
exactly mid-
way between
3, at
your
join
marks
will
be on the
join
in
but it sometimes happens that it is not quite so, which case the true centre must be marked between the outside edges with compasses, and a line drawn Now on the right of to connect the three marks. these three marks mark three other marks, G, H, I. The top mark G being f inch from the exact centre, D; the middle one, H, being f inch from the centre mark E; and the lower one, I, being -| inch from the centre
(I,
through the narrow channel into Cut a the long part of theyj and proceed as follows with two caregroove right down the centre of the
it
:
and work
fully guided but strong cuts of the knife, and pick out the splinter thus loosened. Continue this groove till
you go through
carefully
wood
in
to the other side, and then, working from underneath as before, cut out all the the long part of the f keeping most carefully
mark F, and connect them with a pencil line. Now from two points rather to the right of the top and bottom blocks draw the two short lines J, K, ifj of an inch from the upper and lower edges, and lengthen This line, therethe line G H I, till it touches them. fore, marks the exact locale of the bar which will be Take a glued, with its outer edge just touching it. strip of fine even-grained pine, about u inches long, and plane it till it is just T35 inch thick throughout its Cut it length, and perfectly straight and parallel. about 1 inch broad, and slope off the two ends on one side, so that it roughly takes the shape of the inside of
the belly,
its
and being
especially cautious
I.
when
in the channel
The
Now make
two ends touching the points J and K. a mark and draw a line across this rough
same
G are
f hole
is
bar at the point H, and mark the top and bottom of the bar to distinguish them. Before commencing to
468
fit
THE
;
VIOLIN:
wood about 4
,
inches long,
and about -^ thick, and \ broad insert this into the middle of the/ hole nearest the bar {i.e the left hand one, looking at the front of the belly) and under the
corner, as in Fig. 40,
fixed
viewed from the outside of the belly. Its object and " wing," a, and press result will be to press up the will correct this strings The *. wing, lower down the discrepancy by their pressure if this precaution were not taken, the pressure of the strings would force the wing a below the wing b, which would be hideovis to
;
by the clips you can no longer see a cranny below it at any point, it may be just finished with a flat file and glued into its place, i.e., just on the line G H I if by reason of the narrowness of your model the bar
overhangs the top
obstruct
it, it
circle
of
the
hole,
so as
to
parallel to
so as just
must be set throughout its length and the line G H I, a little nearer the centre, When glued, it must be fixed to clear it.
in
its
place
This
belly
precaua
temto
porary excess
of
rise,
and
dry.
to
Whilst
the
gluing in
fitted,
to
maintain
it till
may
size "
of the blocks
ex-
with glue,
fill
to
erted.
up
the
before
pores
belly,
gluing on the
in
the
may
;
now
FIG. =9.
be accurately
fitted
DIAGRAM
SHOWING
for this
it
same way as
you did before gluing on the back (q. v.),
i.e.,
purpose
set
in
is
the
with
hot
file.
belly,
fixed at
and
its
iron
and
two
fig. 40.
When
operation
A
the
ends
(Fig.
with
15).
of
FIG.
sound barclips
It
fitting bar.
43. MODE OF TRACING PURPLING gluing of the FROM STRADIVARI VIOLIN. dry, bar is
take
B
fine
small
being
held,
thus
plane and
it
you can
it
cut
into
hold
side-
shape,
FIG.
which,
finished,
ways,
side
it,
and
;
when
it
mark on one
where it must be cut down take it off, correct and refix it with the clips over and over again
it
should be as
the point h),
should be
till
to
the
belly
the middle |lhs of an inch deep, therefore plane away till this measurement is obtained at H, and the top
of the bar
is
it.
throughout
time you set
length.
Care
plain
and straight
the point
mark
and
of the
"shape"
From
must soften
off to
39),
the belly at the ends, the extreme ends being finished with a knife, not scalloped, but merely softened down
to the belly, so as to
and
vice versa.
fitting the
This operation of
ten minutes,
bar
may be done
it
in
A shows
is
have about the shape of Fig. 41. the finishing of the ends, B the shaping of
;
and
it
may
must be
this last
length, so that
when
obtained by means of a
is
file
and sand-paper.
When
glued
belly,
it
seems to be cut out of one solid piece with the and again it must be at exact right angles with
thus finished, take three squares of glasspaper of progressive fineness (the last being very the bar
THE
fine),
VIOLIN:
HO W TO MAKE
will
IT.
469
and
till
carefully
belly
it is
Then take
and round file and bevel off the inside edge of the same way as described for the inside edge of the back, as represented at Fig. 35, then in a manner similar to that there described, clean and smooth the edge you have round the left
a
flat
have to contend with, spread the glue quickly all over the top edges of the blocks, sides, and linings, being very careful not to let any run down inside, for
though any that runs down outside may be washed off, any that trespasses inside cannot be removed after the belly is on. Having got a buttering of glue
spread
all
fiddle in the
round,
on,
fast
scooping
belly,
of the
this
and screw
all
it
and
round, begininner
bouts,
to
avoid
twice
its
bulk by
of
to
fitting
the
ribs
the
addition
as
and
putting
on
water, so
dilute
the
glue,
it
and
render
and cramps the same as with the back. This must be done quickly,
but not
without
care in adjusting
soon
not
sets
gluing
bellies,
on
put
and
do
this
particularly
curious,
cal, or
histori-
sentimen-
tal
inscriptions
possi-
out of sight, up
in the
of draughts
upper bouts
or currents of air,
of the fiddle.
The
this,
which would
riously
se-
increase
;
very great at
your
difficulties
and now
fiddles,
in taking
but to counteract
this evil, the ap-
plication
of
the
hot water,
when
the
are
often
light.
you from 38,^DIAGRAM SHOWING METHOD OF MARKING OUT/HOLES ON BELLY. ACTUAL SIZE.
are applied, set a slip of
wash
the
it
brought to
Before
superfluous
glue
sides
applying
is
will remelt
FIG.
and
fitted,
as
When
the screws
on the ribs with a couple of screws, and look round it to note the points where they will require pressing or
longer the time that elapses between the gluing on of the back, and of the belly, the more will the ribs twist and warp out
of shape.
at
the screws, to
wood in the/hole from one of keep down the lower wing and raise the
stretching to
upper one (just as a while ago you set a similar slip from the corner), as shown in Fig. 42. This being done, take a brush and some hot water and wash all round the sides, to remove any superfluous glue, and
* If you do by any chance split a corner, mend according to the directions given for " Repairs."
it
When, by this means, you have arrived an approximate notion of what difficulties you
at
once
470
re-warm and
FERNERIES:
set that
THEM.
there
at C.
keep the belly on. and belly, when fixing them the head (a, Fig. 16) must be en the side which is glued (not the moving collar c), otherwise, when you wash away the superfluous glue it will get washed into the collar B, and fix it to the screw. Set the belly aside in a warm place to dry, and when quite fast, remove the screws. You will now look round the edges, and wherever they appear to be too broad in proportion, they can be reduced by means of a sharp knife and file, and the corrections neatly
which
is
The
when
these
meet
this
point,
so
that
D',
Fig. 43.
When
on back and
even, parallel,
belly
the purfling
marked by two
If you
had done
;
so,
and cleanly cut lines TVth of an inch deep. You must be most careful in this operation to guard against letting the knife slip away from the lines, as this will spoil the symmetry of the purfling, and in the purfling it is that the true delicacy of handling and workmanship really shows itself in the construction of the
fiddle.
When
wood
but as
it
is,
where
may be which it will now hide, instead of showing it up, as it would have done if already inlaid. Take the purfling gauge (Fig. 17), and setting the cutter, which must be thoroughly sharp, -Jj inch from the rounded part of the stem A, trace a line, not letting the cutter sink deep all round the tables, back and belly. Then reduce the distance from the stem to /j, trace another set of lines round back and belly, which will be outside the first. This
you now
slightly
made
from between them with the purfling chisel (Fig. 21), being very careful that the lines are cut deep enough at the corners, or you will pick out a piece too much at Let the depth be made this point and spoil its finish. even and smooth all round the instrument before proceeding further.
At
this point,
is
me,
must stop
to
in
my
in
steps
be taken
to
another operation
be
this
to say, but
you
will find
it
most
must be
left for
To
be continued?)
on the tender will be most difficult to preserve at an exact distance of T 5 from the first however, festina lente and patience, and careful perseverance will overcome all this difficulty. they are Mind and not cut these marks too deep
the edge, as
it
it
FERNERIES
'
HOW
DONALD BEDE.
Ill, SOME
i
The curve of the in which the purfling is laid. marking will have been interrupted at the top of the back by the button, and the corners must be remarked to have the purfling in true Stradivarius style. If you look at any Stradivarius you will see that at
groove
the corners the purfling
is
EFORE
Amateur Work,
as
to
may
information
the
middle of the corner (as at a, Fig. 43), but pointed up (or down, as the case may be), to the point B, as at This is a small particular, but is a great C, Fig. 43.
point in the purfling of Stradivarius.
" style,"
thankfulness,
that
in
it
the
is
of
cultivating
and
collecting ferns,
possible to
derive
much
To mark
this
and
slip
to
prepare a
of
complete the tracing of the purfling, wood exactly similar to the shaded
and success without being compelled to remember the " crack jaw " Latin names, which by
pleasure
pie:e on Fig. 43, which is prepared from a Stradivari instrument. The surface a, a, a, a, represents the
common consent are the regular means of designating Indeed, I these lovely objects of the botanical world. am often amazed at the facility with which nurserymen roll forth, " Gymnogramma
officinarum,'''
which
may be
corners
traced by
is at
its
means.
set
The
purfling at the
The guide
slip
must be
and scores of other such apparently meaningless names, which are attached to, but not always in harmony with, the lovely forms and
FE&NEMIeS:
graceful curves of the ferns.
THEM.
41
Of course, one is comnames in order to designate to others which are meant but, personally, I try to forget them on all other occasions, so the reader is warned not to expect in the parts of these papers relating to the management of ferneries, anything
pelled to use these
;
Lordship Nursery, Green Lanes, N. But, however choice and rare the ferns, nothing will give such a zest
the cultivation, as collecting'
them
yourself, pro-
approaching
to "
A
I
Names
bably on some brief holiday tramp in the lanes and woods of fern-growing districts. Well do I remember the enjoyment of watching the growth of some tiny specimens of the Adiantum nigrum, or Black maiden-
have proved
i, S,
in the matter.
which I had coliected at the risk of my neck, from the crevices of some precipitous rocks in the
hair,
In stocking Figs,
9,
10,
and
14,
unless they
isle of
should be planted
fern
mould
is
put
in,
some
which extended a foot or more into the crevices, seemingly existing on the moisture condensed by the surface of the rocks an enjoyment
roots,
whereby a simple and effective system of drainage will be set up. After having placed some mould upon these, lay some sprigs of ground ivy, with the
stand,
leafy ends projecting a
very
much
heightened,
when
some way
local horticultural
way outside the pockets, on top of which plant the ferns, and if these be transplanted from pots, take care to break up the mould
little
show a
can
feel.
on the outside.
The upper
tiers
reminded
to
avoid
all regularity,
more the
effect of
With
this
re-
gard to the kinds of ferns to be planted, matter very much of individual taste the
;
is
"studied confusion" is obtained, the better. One way of achieving this is to under-plant some dwarf speci-
common
its
mens
there
is
one of
this kind,
hartstongue, in
its varieties, is
is
very suitable,
wealth
In confern
very attractive.
about ii inches long by about f of an inch wide, having about six or seven sections on each leaf, the
root of which
is
some such
is
hills
of South-
west
and
neglect,
and with
interesting.
its
comb-like leaves,
very
pretty
and
Some
small
specimens of
Nothing power of endurance or its vitality in bits its nature would seem to go far to account for the old saying, that " all the ferns have one root," for
districts.
can exceed
;
two of creeping saxifrage and some sprigs of lycopodium dibbled in after all has been planted, will probably satisfy the beginner. The stands should be placed in a shady position, free from draughts (this latter point is of vital importance';, water little, and often. Of course, these open ferneries must not be expected to retain their freshness and luxuriance during the colder months of the year, unless kept in a temperate room and, moreover, sn a considerable number of plants have been somewhat crowded together for a season, it will be a Ivisable to replant the whole the second year. In Fig. 8. some less hardy specimens can be grown; the temperature within the glass being much higher, and also quite free from dust and draught (should the slightest suspicion of mould be apparent, occasionally air the interior, by removing the glass for a few minutes), this kind will not require nearly so much watering, as the moisture given off by the ferns is Icnsed by the glass, and returned to the soil. The c same kinds will also do for Fig. 1, p. 114. Those who cannot collect ferns in the country themselves, may procure, at very moderate prices, almost every ordinary variety, from Messrs. Strood and Sons,
tuft or
;
run the entire length of a lane or cop. effect is produced by burying some pieces of such roots under the other, and allowing them to come up in picturesque confusion ; or placed in the hanging basket (Fig. i,p. 114) with holes bored in the cement, the fronds soon find their way to
it
some
of
will
pretty
and natural
To
making
up the accompanying designs. Fig. 17 is a simple oblong cottage top fernery, having no pretensions
whatever to a decorative design, but
pressly for the beginner
zinc
is
intended ex-
more
as a practical lesson in
It will
else.
be seen that
the frame
made
which
is
E.C., a
size
For the purpose of constructing Fig. 17 we shall require some No. 36 and some No. 2 T-bar. Having procured
the requisite quantity, clean off the grease, which
is
it
draw bench,
472
by rubbing
turpentine.
it
FERNERIES:
with a rag
paraffin
THEM.
2 T-bar, in
size.
No.
and
corres-
wetted with
or
pond
See that
This
being
mea-
saw
will
the solder;
the
amateur
17,
Fig.
will
a hotter iron
to
needed
be,
make a
inches,
width
for tin
straight
16 inches, slope
;
gether,
joint
is
or a very
weak
unlikely,
it
is
better to
A
cut
up the lengths
larger
at
first
an
made
other,
inch
and
NC COTTAGE TOP FERNERY,
17
up-
mitre
It
them
afterwards.
rights
of No. solder
;
will
be observed that
of Fig.
angle,
34 equal these on
exactly
all
the angles
are
right
angles,
reverse
it,
and,
if true, it will
work up. It is cutting up these and soldering the same so square and true that the beginner finds so difficult, and this can only be overcome by practice and careful attention to extreme accuracy in measurement when cutting; also, in making
to
it
will
mitres
show a
square.
in this
true right
If the
angle
with
the
at
fiat
CORNER ORNAMENT.
up do not
the
trust
to
eye, but
make
form
part
it
the
when
be
true,
will
on.
to
each other,
it
is
can
be
clean
with
cloth.
some
Put on
perpendicular
fixed
tion.
when
posi-
emery
in
their
as in former direc-
Fig.
17 in order
the
interior
being
the
reached
top,
from which is
to
not
other
paint
number
in
of
fixed
part.
the
holes bored in
the the
little
It will
be best
bottom and
aperture
left
to
commence
A
and B
by
first;
top ridge, or a
in the
these
are mac'e of
FERNERIES:
ventilation.
THEM.
good
473
The
glass parts, E E,
pattern,
in
such as No.
It will
54.
The
various instructions
be too
thin,
and
being puttied
chocolate
paint over
off,
all,
it
has gone
direciions
the ferns
may be
The former
in this and other be seen that the antiquated method of having a box-like space at bottom for the ferns to grow in is dispensed with, and a much more attractive plan adopted, viz., an oblong rim of zinc 2 inches deep is placed in the bottom of the case before glazing, and
detail of Fig.
17 will hold
designs.
probably find a
little difficulty
this
line,
covered with
the
Roman cement,
forming an irregular
for the
for the
top,
and
conve-
Draw on
a board, or on
same manner as already described rockwork. When this is done, and the case some thin cement is run in all round about
deep.
built
glazed, A
inch
are
The
ferns
Place a piece
and mark
up in irregular heights, and banked up with moss where the mould is left bare.
Some
tween
gives
effect.
fine
shingle
or
sea-shells
this
placed
very
be-
when
soldering to-
If this
is
done
End
doors are
in
quite
unnecessary
be perfectly
true
fit
alike,
and a
obtained.
The
of
may be
in with
plaster
Paris
with
advantage,
it
securing as
rigidity,
does great
from the top. The ornaments on the four corners are formed by cutting out of No. 10
zinc pieces to pattern of
which, as the
top
will
be frequently
is
handled,
of consider-
able importance.
page
114,
comDibof
ble in
some
sprigs
after
aci
lycopodium
Fig.
the
something more
in
e^"--
ornamental
design
20
represents
an imitation of a treeFIG. 20. IMITATION OF TREE FERN. fern, the stump of which is recommended as an easy stage in advance, and although being very simple is formed of a hollow tube covered with rockwork in character, looks, when finished and stocked, excement, and, if properly made, forms an exceedingly Make ceedingly attractive, and by no means out of place in interesting and somewhat unique fernery. a handsomely furnished drawing-room. When coma zinc tube, about 18 inches long by about 4 inches plete, its dimensions are extreme height, 2 feet 6 wide at base, and about 3 inches at top. Make a
:
inches
width, 14 inches
;
at
various points
height from base to shoulder, 17 inches slope of top, 1 1 inches and should be decorated in chocolate and
;
and gold, or black and gold avoid every shade of green, the ferns will supply this. The framework consists of four different kinds of bar, viz., base frame, No 31, pillars, No. 46 equal angle shoulder frame. No. 28, bottom and ends of top No. ridge ba.r, No. 8, surmounted with a suitable fret
gold, white
; ;
with the rough edge outside, cover the tube with two or three coats of Roman cement, leaving the holes open. Put the last coat on smoothly, and before it sets
take a piece of wire and score
tree stump.
it
in
imitation of the
rich dark
only one
Set it is sufficient to leave it a dead dry brown. a large pan or other suitable receptacle, and after
474
placing a quantity of
terial for
pot
or
other
fill
maup
the
is
and
down
windows
and
left,
are
shown
in Fig. 5,
and
it is
pan or
tray
point.
unnecessary to say anything further on this It must be understood, however, that the pro-
and saxifrage planted along with some larger specimens, allowed to grow over the sides the greater the variety of young plants on the stem
window
rooms
is
more pleasing will be the result. The large quantity of mould which is contained in the inside will insure
the
are flush with the inside of the pieces that form the
sides of the window.
The
in
first
thing to be done
to
the development of
the
ferns for
several
seasons.
prepare a
slip of
wood
having
its
section
the form of
a right-angled
thoroughly moist.
itself to
This plan
will
probably
commend
triangle, as
many
in
towns who are possessed of a small and tender ferns can be way, and thus an elegant table orna
by cutting
required at
shown at A L F in Fig. 13. This is made and planing up a slip of the thickness the upper edge, and then planing away the
wood from
at hand.
Nor
is
why
the interior of the upper edge until it is reduced to nothing at the exterior of the lower edge.
The
the
slip thus
formed
it
is
When made,
'roof,
kept
off.
should be placed round the bottom of the outer surface being in the same plane
with the external surface of the shell of the structure. At the opening of each window the inner part of this
the
EDITOR.
be sloping, and it will be necessary to by blocking up with a piece of precisely the same depth, and of the shape shown at A r c; H in section. This makes all solid at the bottom of the openings, and forms an inner sill to the windows. The outer sill, shown in section at K in Fig. 13, and
will
wood
rectify this
have yet the attic windows to deal with, and it is necessary to give a brief explanation of the method to be followed in making and fitting these, although there is no great difficulty in their construction. Once more I must remind the reader that we are dealing with this structure not on any stated cale of so many inches or parts of an inch to the foot, but on the broader principle of the lower rooms being perfect cubes externally, and that the length, width, and height of each, which are equal, are each
divided into four equal parts.
attics,
in elevation at C D in Fig. 14, is merely a slip screwed on to the feather-edged slip, both having their upper surfaces in one and the same plane, or,
other.
Next, pieces of wood, of the form shown at D E L F, must be cut to form the sides of the window, and the
F, is placed against the roof, having inner surface flush with edge of the opening cut for the window. This may be done by the aid of long
its
sloping edge, D
The
height of the
closely
and
These screws,
of
was assumed to be three of these parts, and the slope of the mansarde roof in front and at the sides to be regulated by making the space or boards that form the top of the roof just three of these parts in length and breadth. This being the case, A E in Fig. 13 presents an accurate delineation of the slope of the roof, or the angle at which the front and sides of the shell of the roof are inclined to the
also externally,
floor of the attics, the figure itself representing part of
Before fixing, however, it will be necessary to the various parts of the attic front, and to
together.
make
fit
all
them
groove
sill
may
be cut
of the sides
and
of the glass, in
and
the interior of the attic in section, to the right of a b, the elevation of the side of the window and its
The
window
in eleva-
which case the glass must be put in before the roof is fixed on; but if it be thought better to leave the insertion of the glass until the window frame is fixed, a narrow slip of wood about \ inch thick should be nailed to sides and sill, to form a rebate in which the glass may be dropped. Jf this mode be adopted, room should be left for the reception of a small bead all round the window outside, put on with needle
points, to hold the glass in its proper position.
tion, that
from
An
47S
the sides, as at E,
in office.
put in as in
The ornament now under consideration, all, should be made in one piece, to the roof of the house when closed up, and
of the sides
must
be bevelled off to admit of the sloping boards that form the roof of the attic. The tympan between these boards is filled up with a piece of thin board. The upper ends are bevelled so as to rest against the ridge
board B M, which at the end M is let for a short distance into the short ornamental upright N, the top
will
sawn asunder with a very fine tenon saw. This ensure an exact register of the ornamental work
after
for this further
when
I
having been opened. than that shown in Fig. 3, for there will be scarcely an amateur who makes the house who will not have some fancy
of his
own
and
and bottom of which may be turned in the lathe. At the end e it passes through the crest-board that runs along the front of the roof, shown in section at B O in Fig. 13, and in elevation at G H in Fig. 14, and passes into the fillet P, which is nailed to the top of the roofboard, at the distance of the thickness of the crest-
board from the edge of the roof-board. Great care must be taken in bevelling the edges of the boards that form the roofs of the attic windows, so that the top edge of the bevel meets the roof-board on each
side in a line in the plane of the top surface of the roof
the
board of the house proper. Where the boards meet the post Nj they must be notched, as shown at Q, that
they
maker
chimney
shafts, the
mouldings
base and at
and butt properly and evenly against N. From what has been said, the method of making and fixing the attic windows will be apparent
fall
may
into place
to
all.
It
windows will otherwise present, ornamental bracketshaped pieces should be fixed to the sides and under the roof, as shown at R, s in side elevation in Fig. 13, and at k, r', s, s' in front elevation in Fig. 14. The lower ornaments at s, s' are fixed on the upper edge of the slip a b, and to the sides of the window. The triangular ornament shown between the windows in Fig. 3 rises from the slip A B, and should be bedded against a block, in section similar to
the lower part of the sides of the windows.
Those who have a lathe will, doubtless, make their shafts round those who have not, will plane up a bit of wood perfectly square, and then proceed to cut out hexagonal or octagonal shafts and the wood carver will ornament them with panelled work after the fashion of the old Elizabethan chimneys. They need not be
the top must be similar in character.
;
surrounds the
higher
roof,
than the
This
is, I
may
be
carved work
taken advantage of to c'i splay the armorial bearings of the family to which the little owner of the house belongs, if that family be
it
think, preferable,
and
may be
to the roof, I have to two points, namely, the work in imitation of tiles, and the crest-board that surmounts the roof. To form the tile work, nothing more is necessary than to take thin slips of wood, not less than i inch and not more than f inch in thickness, and having planed them on the outside, to reduce them to
call attention to
the
condition of
to
Too
I
little
respect
is
paid
them away
slips
shown
in Fig. 14,
and the
to prove their right to tear them, charged at least a treble rate of duty for the assumption
glued on to the roof-board below, each slip slightly overlapping that which is immediately below
and as trademarks partake very much of the nature of heraldic insignia, it is only fair and right that everyone who assumes a trade-mark for the better distinction of his goods should pay a tax for the use of it, as every armiger or gentleman is compelled to do who openly bears his arms. I have been led into a slight digression, which I beg respectfully to offer to Mr. Childers as an idea for the Budget of 1884 if he is then still
;
it.
little
amateur finds this beyond him, he can cover over and hide
If the
any defects with a roll or capping of wood properly grooved to fit over the slips. Any interstices between the quasi tiles and the capping can be filled with The tiled work may be done in the solid, by putty. taking pieces of g inch board, fitting them to the root at the sides, and in front to the right and left of the
476
attic
windows and between them, and then marking tiles with rule and pencil, and carving them out with a broad and very sharp chisel. The boards
out the
will describe
The
effect is
most
should be carefully mitred together at the angles of the roof before the carving is commenced. When
finished, this external coating
on form of a square. This is divided into eight parts by lines passing vertically, horizontally, and diagonally through the
satisfactory.
Each
examination of the
figure, is in the
centre.
The
circles are
marked
As
it
rounding the top of the roof is fixed to filleting, screwed down to the roof-board at the top at a
suitable distance
stuff is
equal to j and i of the transverse or vertical line. The method of dividing the circumferences of the
circles
star
is
clearly indicated in
bit,
is
to say, if J inch
the figure.
The
hole
is
made with a
whose
circle,
filleting
must be
at a
breadth
is
screwed down
FIG. 19.
SECTION
B IN FIG. 18.
ALONG A
lM
'
/I.I
/;
ijjl^
FIG. 13.
FIG. 14.
FIG.
the crest-board
in Fig. 14 is easily
when planed
cut,
and has the merit of being less likely to break than a cresting of a more ornamental character. It will be seen that this and the tiles are regulated in
accordance with the plan adopted in determining the proportions of the dimensions of the house, each
pattern in the crest-board and each
tile
about half the thickness of the wood at the base. little practice, it will be found needful to do nothing more than to find the common centre of the
to
With a
being exactly
ceed with the incised work without delineating the points. The appearance of the crest-board may be still
further improved
attic windows in width. by aid of a stock and bit, and the surrounding star is in incised work. The method of doing this is shown in Fig. 15. When painted it is
by bevelling
edge of the
The
namely, half the radius of the smaller and inner circle, with the chisel. Fig. 16 is a representation of the
pierced and incised work in the crest-board along the
line
highly effective.
this
kind of
ornamentation,
trellis
but
more
B.
This
will
work which
is
to
477
moulding, and being put on as shown, afford imitations of cantilevers, used in
presented by the
roof not
sides
structure.
overhanging the
front
It
and
of
the
would have been practicable to do this, but it would have been inconvenient and have led to
the production of sharper
and sometimes
be bored along ends
;
Holes
may
ceive the
of
small
corners
than
is
exactly
turned spindles
ferred,
or, if pre-
awkward manner
construction
is
is
at
the
The
and
little
beyond
on either
in this
side,
shown
in Fig.
On
attic
FIG.
may be
to E,
nailed
and glued on
and
may
be made
the
window illustrated in Fig. 13 is shown on a scale of twice the size, and the va-
15.
making a comparison
finish,
spindles, the upper ends of which enter a cap K, which and holds each spindle in its
of Figs. 13 and 17. The first step to be taken is to plane up some pieces about 1 inch square, supposing that the structure is made of \ inch stuff, or % inch
Three pieces and two for the sides. Mitre these pieces neatly at the corners, and fixing them with thin ij inch screws, and before screwing up, sink holes with a narrow bit as shown
this thickness.
Those who prefer fretwork to turned work may substitute a slip of this for the spindles, but they must remember to cut a groove along the upper edge of the slip E and in the under side of the capping, which in
case may be a little thicker and slightly rebated on each side along its lower edges. A simple guilloche pattern would be suitable, but in this the makers must
this
follow their
5.
screw-head may enter the wood and be buried about J inch from the outer surface
at A, so
that the
to the orna-
mentation of the
slips of
house,
it
is
desirable to
add
that
of the
slip.
Make
holes in alternation as
shown by
wood
way
they
will present
screws
C,
may
alternately en-
The
general
ef-
and the method of managing them may be gathered from Figs. 3 and
4
;
may be
the
firmly
but,
perhaps, an addiillustration
attached
to
its
house
throughout
length.
To
bead
F,
and running
shown.
Having determined the depth from the angle of the house to which the widest part of the quoining shall be carried, plane up six
slips of
the
positions
fillet
slip
attacked,
angle at the front, and two for the edges of the sides
adjacent
to
the
will
back.
blocks as at
glued up.
These
FIG.
slips
now be
angles
the
slips
at
the
478
in
LATHE.
front
into
Fig. 19,
away
at a bevel.
quoining, J inch may be bevelled away, leaving \ inch perpendicular to the sides of the house or, if pre;
may be
bevelled
off.
and then surround the grate with the jambs, and shelf of a miniature mantelpiece the plan of the jambs being shown at D, D. The cornice must be carried round the top of the chimney breast, and it will add to the appearance of the rooms if a thin piece of wood be carried round the bottom of each in imitait,
lintel,
Now mark
one
the whole
width of the slip, and the other half the width, and in each remove the alternate pieces, which, when the
slips are entire, are at c, D, E, F in Fig. 18,
The house
nally,
it.
is
and
all that
bringing
it
Perhaps the
now complete, externally and internow remains to be done is to paint most effective way of doing this will
Having done
this, fasten
the slips to the sides of the house with glue and small
has adjacent to
tenon saw and
it
Then
take a fine
make a cut between each block to the depth of the bevel on the outer edge of each slip, and then with a sharp chisel carefully bevel the edges of
each block, as shown
Fig.
in Fig. 18.
chimney pots, etc., and the parapet and cresting round the roof white or, paint the house white, and the quoins, chimneys, dressings of windows, and parapet terra-cotta colour, and the roof in imitation of green and purple slate but this must be left to the
;
fancy of
the
builder.
The
dotted line in
depth to which the saw cut should be made, and shows a section of the block on both sides of the angle cf the house along the line A B. The dotted vertical line in Fig. 18 represents the edge
19 represents the
wood
It
must
be borne
in
mind
as
plane would interfere with the opening of the house, as has been explained already. This completes the fittings outwardly, and I
this
which would be of an actual house may be painted of another colour, or stained and varnished. The imitation of smoke issuant from the chimney to use a heraldic phrase as I have seen recommended in other instructions for building a very ordinary doll's house, had better not be attempted. It is possible to embellish the interior to the utmost by the addition of miniature blinds, which, if it be sought to imitate Venetians, may be made of cardboard. Curtain poles
in
With the
tenant,
furniture
fittings
inwardly
far will
will
be as brief as possible.
A room
its
there
charm for a child, as without the mantelpiece no excuse for a pierglass, etc. so it is desirable to provide for this, and in doing so we can
is
;
manage
on
the
called.
and the tenant usually brings his or her furnithe case may be. I promised at the commencement of these articles to give, in conclusion, an alternative method of building a doll's house but, as they have run to a far greater length than I thought they would when I commenced, and as I have, I trust, fully redeemed the promise made to a correspondent
;
Before attempting to
house,
it
make
these portions of
little
in
an ei.y Part of
it is
this
Magazine,
doll's
is
better to purchase
grates
until
build
and regulate the work but the way of going to work to the size of the grates Having determined the is in all cases the same. width of the chimney breast, and, with this, the width
for the
rooms
either
side,
commence by
room, on the
at A,
PICTURE
screwing up two
inside.
fillets
IN
THE LATHE.
who
A Fig. 20 giving a general view of the elevation when complete, and when grate, mantelpiece, pierglass, and ornaments are duly placed in position. To the fillets A, A, which must extend from floor to ceiling in each
These are represented
in Fig. 21
OLLA POBRIBA.
our "fretting" friends
HOSE
if
of
may
by
they choose,
considerably minimise
in
room, the attics excepted, fasten a piece of board B B, completely covering the space between them. Here,
then,
^-SrS?dl
the
labour involved
rabbeting
we have
and
recesses.
fit
In
To many,
without
the
the grate
of
LATHE.
warm
479
dry
Sls
rab-
it
by heating
till it
to a
beting
and
polishing
polishing
Polishingspirits
especially
isn't
ashes
it
cools.
it
When
to
fit
by
truly,
and turn
of this job, or else the result will be a " wobble " not
On
it,
as
shown
labour attached to
rabbeting
may be
sened, and the work executed in far better style, by the addition of a few tools to the amateur's " kit" for
his lathe.
aware that those who possess means suffithemselves by executing the sawing only, relegating the finishing-off to the cabinet-maker. I address myself to those who either can't afford this, or if they can, prefer going through
I
am
cient,
generally content
a thorough job.
It is almost unnecessary to mention that there are methods of fixing photos, etc in their frames, other than by rabbeting the backs, such as headings and mouldings on the front, or ledges behind; but I think that all will share in my opinion that the rabbet is by far the neatest and most self-contained. The tools and appliances which I would recommend as an addition to the " kit," and which I intend describing, are but few in number, and quite within the manufacturing scope of an interested amateur. I say "interested," because if a man concentrates his rr.ind upon the achievement of a particular job, he will generally surmount the little obstacles which
,
"take" on. Put it in the chuck, screw it up tight, and finish turning the "biting end." This is a truer way of dishing it up than between the centres. The part forming the blades, which must be slightly reduced under the body size of the tool, as we have already noted, must also be finished off with emery paper, in order that all scratches may be removed, as they would interfere with the cutting edges, they being formed by this part. Next drill a \ inch hole into the end, centrally for a depth of f,ths of an inch. This will save labour in filing up the blades, and files. Don't file up the
for the set-screw to
ing
the
tool,
and
our
labours.
Tempering a tool of this shape is not so easy as making it but yet not so difficult, if close attention mixed with obstinate perseverance and a good fire is
;
he has
not, let
him
get up a good
tool
fire in
the kitchen.
let
it
mounting
occur in the details of its progress. If the suris not done gracefully, it will amount, no doubt, to a successful scramble, more or less to the
satisfaction of the adventurer.
it heat has become a dull red heat, turn it end for end, and very carefully heat the bladed part to a bright blood red
Insert the
first,
;
and when
it
into
and allow
it
to
cool.
The
oil
must be at
hand
in sufficient
quantity
to
for
the purpose.
The
To accomplish
of a lathe, a tool
is
required as
shown
is
it
in Fig.
1.
The
on
sketch
is
drawn
full size,
but there
no
is
stricture
a very handy
work.
The diameter
little
of the cutter
must be a
work,
of the
tool
tool, in
when
at
may
not be defaced.
better ex-
have assumed a whitish grey colour; this denotes a very hard temper, much too hard for use, it therefore must be reduced or " drawn down." In order to observe the transitions of colour effectually, during this process, the blades must be brightened with emery or sand-paper; this done, heat a piece of iron red-hot a poker would do, but something larger is better hold the tool close to
blades will
now be found
The
tool
it,
turning
let
it
round so as
equally,
may be
one, as
fitted to the
hand, or held in
better, occupying room, and, what is of more importance, presenting no irregularities, or projecting set-screws likely to form unpleasant acquaintance with the
shown
in Fig. 2,
is
much
come too close, or they will " come down " all at once and altogether, and cause a repetition of the oil business. The best way is to
do not
the thin points
let
less
up
the tool rest on the shoulder part, with the blades at a good angle from the hot iron, and regularly
turn
To make this tool Suppose we have a chuck all ready with a -fe inch hole in it, then we get a piece of round bar steel, \ inch in diameter, of sufficient length so as to have a good hold in the chuck, and project
:
heat as they change in colour from the whitish grey to pale straw, so on to dark straw, and the colour of a
"fly's wing,"
down
to pale blue, at
which stage
it
must
immediately be arrested by immersion in clean cold The reason for this low temper, viz., pale water. blue, is that it admits easily of "fettling" up to a sharp edge, and is less liable to break, a great con-
480
LATHE.
them
to sharpness
all
may now be
finished.
First bring
by means of a fine saw file, applying it right and can't be bettered. Finish
is
Do
a keen
Turkey
slip.
The rabbeting
is
tool
the tool for rounding off the edge on the face of the frame
the
same as
for
except in the detail of forming the cutting part, where it is first turned down to \ inch diameter, as shown in Fig. 3, and a litje drawn carefully through the centre across the small end, as a guide for filing up.
the one which
have
just described,
It is
file, and the cutting edges rounded out, and bevelled to follow each other, like a common drill. The process of tempering and the temper
half round
is
precisely the
same
beting tool.
FIG. 6.
demands
attention
is
an
chiefly elliptical,
or rectangular with
neat
form
is
scope of a lathe.
packing blocks, of wood, are used, and a lathe, s?y with 4 inch Returning to the subject, gauge and without getting appreciably shaky on its pins, on work of this class. Square the edges, keeping them plane these two pieces of wood to a thickness of fths of an inch. both exactly the same size. In shape they may be rectangular or square, but the former is the best. Screw them together face to face, and on one side draw two centre lines for the transverse and conjugate diameters of the required ellipse. Describe this y^ths of an inch larger than the given opening in the patthis gives -j^nds of an inch all round, being the allowance for the semi-diameter of the tool, and the ; Having marked the ellipse, cut it out right through both pieces, following width of the rabbet when finished. the marks and carefully squaring the sides as you proceed. Finish out smooth and fair with glass-paper. We next require some means of keeping the work in its proper relation to the tool, and of advancing it
may not be out of place to mention here may be raised to meet an exigency, centres, may be raised 2 or i\ inches
tern
HOW
as required.
481
To meet
be employed, and a kind of face plate or table fitted on the end of the sliding cylinder. Those who
possess a rest for drilling work against, can get over
pattern.
by screwing a wooden face to it about the same template. Those who haven't one, can make one of wood as follows Bore out a piece of hard wood to fit the cylinder tightly, and screw the
this
size as the
:
and square with be done with a square applied on the side across the edges ; also see that the template agrees with the pattern. Now the importance of the
parts of the template are kept fair
this
each other,
may
table on to
it,
be appreciated if they are not, the front and back of the frame, when finished, will not agree.
will
;
FIG.
FIG. 5.
FACE
A,
FIG.
I.
TOOL
FULL
SIZE.
FIG. 2.
FIG. 7. DOVETAILING TOOL jgB FOR CONNECTING J SUPPORTS AND SHELVES OF ' BRACKETS, ETC.
|
may be taken in advancing the work. an elevation and sectional sketch, will, at a glance, fully explain this arrangement. Having described the preparation of the necessary tools and appliances for doing the picture frame busithe cylinder
Fig.
5,
allowing
it
to
required to be rabbeted; this in the case of a frame -fVths of an inch thick, would be about T3s ths,and allowing jths as the template thickness, a total projection of yfths would be requisite.
now endeavour to illustrate their use. Suppose we have a frame ready to be operated upon. Vut it between the templates, and screw them together tightly, thus clamping, as it were, the frame between. Four stout i\ inch wood screws will do this nicely they must be got in either at the corners,
ness, I will
;
Rig up the table on the end of the poppit cylinder, and start the lathe, holding the work firmly against the table, and the body of the tool following round the template, and advancing the work until the depth is attained. One heavy cut and
THEM.
has begged
will
me
to
Go through a similar performance, until the centre drops out, and the opening is complete. The higher the lathe
speed used the better
finish.
views as to the desirability of making boots right and left shapes, before I cripple the people
abandon
my
of this country
of
my
craft
general illustration
of the
modus operandi is given by Fig. 6. If the frame is to contain more than one photo, shift the template from one to other in the same manner, and repeat the process. The quality of the work executed will be found highly satisfactory, and a long way ahead that produced by hand router, or " old woman's tooth," as termed by some.
Fig. 7
shows a dovetailing
in
tool,
which
will
be
have yet crippled them. In place of my sole shape given in Part II., as being the medium between the fashionable and the altogether ungraceful sole forms adopted by some so-called anatomical bootmakers, this correspondent sends me a drawing of the sole shape he thinks would enable people to walk with ease. This is nearly, if not exactly, the same shape as the back of a housemaid's scrubbing brush, and provides for feet as though the feet themselves were alike on both sides, and interchangeable. I instance
this
in order
to
these
shelves of brackets
would be unsightly or impracticable. The guide for this tool consists of two parallel strips of wood about 3 inches wide, by |ths inch thick, with a couple of screws at each end for clamping the shelf in position. The male part of the dovetail is readily prepared by running a sharp gauge set to the depth, along the edges of the support, and cleaning out the angles with a firmer, or fiat, chisel. All that has been said as to the making and tempering of the other tools
applies equally to this one.
shoemakers are not entirely to blame for the folly which is so noticeable in the shapes of modem boots and shoes, for doubtless, when the correspondent referred to has boots made for his own wear, his shoemaker is afterwards blamed for the
articles that the
Should any of
my
themselves amply rewarded in speed and quality of execution. I have endeavoured to make everything
as clear as possible tion be required,
I
;
shall
be most happy
to give
it.
But this article was to deal with boot-repairing, and not with bootmaking. I shall probably most facilitate the work of the amateur by following the order of the bootmaking articles, and explaining in this chapter how to repair riveted boots, and that class of goods now the bulk of the cheaper sewn boots worn those sewn by machine with a single seam direct from the outside or bottom of the sole to the inside or inner sole. Machine-sewn boots can be repaired by machine sewing, but as this involves the use of a machine which the amateur can by no means
avail himself
of, it
may
practical
way
of repairing
by
riveting or pegging
them.
In regard to the choice of leather for mending, one
or two
light
words of advice
may
The
be given.
it
As a
rule for
and
FTER
am
feel,
by circumstances beyond
explanations
articles, I
my
control,
my
processes of the
edges should show that the fibre is close and not porous to any apparent extent. Good English leather can always be recognized by the pleasant oak bark-like
smell.
shoemaker's handicraft. My previous glad to learn, have been so far successful that several readers have written stating that, having carefully followed the instructions that were given, they have been enabled to make boots for
am
For heavier work a mixed tannage answers Evans' Bristol leather being the best produced for the Leather for repairing boots which aie to be purpose.
studded with nails needs not to be of so good quality, for if it is very hard the heads of the nails are apt to
themselves, which not only satisfied them on the score of economy, but in point of appearance also. But, if
break
off in
wear.
Top-pieces, that
is
to
say the
for the knowhave been able to impart, I have not escaped blame for my want of knowledge either, inasmuch as a Cheltenham correspondent has, in a letter of six
ground, should always be stout The cost of light English soles, or half soles, as those
for repairing are
men's
sizes,
;
from
and
pages, explained to
me
that
the
quality
THEM.
483
40!.
to 6d. if good.
The work which most frequently needs to be done way of repairs is the renewal of the soles and heels. Tc effect this purpose it is .necessary, first,
in the
on the iron
is
lasts
and be
is
thoroughly
filled
no
work
being done.
If the
boot
etc.,
slips at all
sole springs
the probability
" solid," to
will
being hammered, work will not be use the trade expression, meaning that it
is
the
not endure.
The
by being first placed upon the upright stand and the boot drawn over it. The boot containing the last may then be placed in its natural position on the bench, and the instep block inserted and pushed down. This, if properly done, will make it impossible for any slipping Having replaced the boot and last to take place. upon the upright stand, the first thing to be done is to clear away any wholly or partially decayed leather, and to level the bottom of the boot preparatory to the
have a small where the end of the new sole is to fall, so that when the leather has been car.efully "skived" on its under side, so that its bevel corresponds with that of the sole, the two ends will make a level and even juncture. The old sole may now be riveted down again, and the new sole, which I am presuming to have been wetted, allowed to " mellow," and hammered, after the manner that has before been recommended in the chapters on bootmaking, may be tacked down in its proper position at this joint, and with one or two rivets here and there about the forepart. Then it should be gently hammered and " sleeked" or rubbed down with the " long stick." It has now to be rounded or pared to the shape of
sole should
The
groove
or-
"rabbet" cut
just
Rounding or
less expert the
paring
is
an operation needing
is,
to
be performed with
The
workman
the
more
leather he, in
attempting to
new
This levelling
is
successful
work
cheap repairing shops that may be seen in almost every thoroughfare, do such clumsy and moreover flimsy repairing is that sufficient time is not spent in getting
the
round up the sole, should leave upon the edge, inasmuch as he is somewhat apt to be mistaken as to the closeness of his work. While it is very easy, if when the work is finished, it is found that too much leather has been left on, to pare it off, on the other hand, a deficiency cannot be made up, and spoils both the appearance of the work and its comfort and durability. The sole having been rounded, a row of holes should
be made
all
the
work
levelled before
I
com-
mences.
at length
have,
in
careful prepara-
the old sole, at the distance of f inch from the edge, and the rivets driven in to hold it down. The rivets which fasten the old and new sole together at the
joint
doubly necessary,
are
should be put
in
close
to
the
edge,
and
if
new
somewhat
remove
this is
done neatly, a
joint will
be made that
will
uneven
to begin with.
it
is
usually best to
the old sole altogether from the toe to the top part of the waist, leaving the middle sole or welt undisturbed. To do this with a riveted boot it will be necessary to
never separate, nor scarcely show when the boot In regard to the length of the rivets is on the foot. to be used, a little care is necessary. As a rule, for an
ordinary walking boot, T\ inch rivets will be long enough to go through and hold firmly round the forepart. If the rivets are too long, the
if
between the old leather of the sole and the middle sole a screwdriver, or other similar blunt instrument, when by the application of a little leverage the sole will separate, and it may then be cut off with
insert
work
is
no more
secure than
inside,
too short
and no more.
the sole
is
the knife.
will
The
rivets near
;
need to be removed these can either be withdrawn by the aid of the pincers, or, when they have been raised away from the upper, may be punched
through the sole, a piece of waste leather being placed beneath between sole and upper to prevent
injury to the boot.
it may be hammering, and a vigorous sleeking with the long-stick. Most amateurs are apt to suppose that it is by hammering that the sole is made durable in wear but I would advise them, after the first hammering (which has been given
When
before the
sole
is
When
"long-stick,''
which cannot
taken out, the free end of the old sole should be " skived " carefully down, a portion, about threequarters of an inch, being so prepared to go underneath the
difficult to
which
In the foundations of the boot. " sleeking out," or hardening the leather with the longstick, the best way is to throw a few drops of water
may damage
new
pare
sole.
As the old leather is somewhat down rasping with a small rough rasp
for getting the
will
requisite
upon the bottom of the sole after the gentle hammering has levelled any slight inequalities that may have appeared, and then to rub backwards and forwards
48 4
CASE.
this
vigorously with the stick for a minute or two. This rubbing " scours " the sole, and" brings out from it
of butt leather
purpose a piece
to the
shape of the
rivets are
any dirty matter which it may contain, besides thoroughly bedding it down to the shape of the bottom The dirty water should now be wiped off, of the last. and the sole allowed to dry for a few minutes at an open window. Then, if it is rubbed again with a dry cloth, and afterwards with the long-stick, it will thoroughly harden and assume a brilliant natural polish quite as satisfactory in appearance as any finish that could be given by removing the grain of the leather, and showing the fibre beneath. There is another method of soling boots, by means of outside clumps. This plan increases the thickness
of the sole considerably, the old sole being
altogether, irregularities in
its
The
away
is
is
thrust
under.
By
made up
its
at the
is
worn
part.
The
from
it
edge a row of
which hold
fast.
left
on
thickness being
made
up by overlays.
boots in Part
ing, equally
Too much care cannot be taken in preparing the old sole and making it even. This is the only additional instruction neceswith
new work.
differs but slightly from this, and conadding the new piece to the outside of, instead of beneath, the old sole. This plan should be adopted when the sole is worn very much, for it will not then hold the rivets, the heads of which come through. The overlay is " skived " and prepared in the same manner as the underlay, except that its edge has to be left a little thicker, so that the tendency to curl or become ragged in wear may be avoided.
Overlaying
sists in
(To be continued.)
sary.
Heeling
is
a ver,y
simple process.
The
heels
reader will understand, composed of regular layers of leather or " lifts," it is only necessary
being, as the
to get
chisel, the
an even base by removing, by means of an old layers which have been worn through.
Half-lifts
may
be used
to
it
a certain extent
is
but
little
if
the
work
as
is
to look well,
better to use a
more
have
HE
accompanying sketches represent the Magazine (Fig. l) capable of holding 400 No. 12 C. F. cartdetails of a Cartridge
explained above that the secret of good work in soling is the preparation of the old surface to begin with.
ridges,
with
So
it is
in
If the
even one,
so as to
lifts
may be made
so
implements used
cartridges.
in
Each
itself,
tool
is
or bevelled,
division for
and
make a plane
piled one
surface
required.
The
inside
may bo
is
upon another
height
rivets,
7 inches.
The lower
divided
of holding 100
for paring
It will
cartridges; or 400 in
all.
will
now
explain
is
the
to
be unnecessary to repeat the instructions as finishing, the process being practically the same as
method
groove
cut in
described in the articles relating to bootmaking in Part IV. Indeed, all the operations mentioned in this chapter will be better understood if reference is
i inch wide, and of the same depth. are made to receive the partitions A
made
III.,
to the very complete instructions which Parts II., and IV. contain. Another operation which the boot-repairer has frequently to undertake, and which can be performed by the amateur with ease, is under or overlaying
i.e.,
and end, 4j inches long and These grooves and B (Fig. 3), which are l6i inches by 4{ inches by ^ inch, and The 11 J inches by 4} inches by \ inch respectively. reason for making the grooves and height of partitions
the inside of each side
4i inches is, that five cartridge cases, resting lengthways on each other, measure a shadow under 4! inches.
Ten
If the sole
it
is
fairly
good,
small
is
by side measure less, by a amount of space, than 8| inches, and two cartridges placed end to end, when loaded, measure
cartridges lying side
5'J-
through,
it is
the best,
and
not quite
inches.
The above
explanation shows
485
down.
In Fig.
3,
is
gently
hammered down
nailed down.
is
by
\ inch
home.
1,
In
tray,
is
key into each other at right angles. When the sides and ends of the case have been joined, A is dropped into the
cut in the centre, so as to allow
to
them
Fig.
shown containing
The
which
4 86
divided by thin pieces of wood in the manner shown A, B, E, and F are each 8 inches by \\ inch. in Fig. 3.
MARK
WICKS.
'
_>|
C and D are equal in size. G is 13 inches by 2 inches. H is 2| inches by 2 inches. The loading machine, having been taken asunder, fits into I and K, which are 6 inches by 3# inches, and 7 inches by 3 inches
respectively.
The vacant
E now
centre of the tray in Fig. 2 can be further divided for other tools, or left its full size for rags, etc., at the
many
or
works purporting
is
The sides of the tray are option of the amateur. 3 inches deep, and are raised by means of two flush
brass handles, or drawer lifts, such as are supplied by Messrs. Melhuish and Sons, 85-87, Fetter Lane, E.C.
;
manner
omitted altogether.
rangement of the pedal organ and the action connected therewith and I trust that the instructions which I now give, and the copious illustrations with which they are accompanied, will enable amateurs to select the arrangement that happens to be best suited to the means and space at their disposal, and that they may be enabled, by the help of instructions and illustrations combined, to carry out the work in a satisfactory manner.
The
/
first
point to be considered,
?
is,
/^
liA
/
In
answer
to this question
/
/
room
to
;
must depend on the space at It may be that we have spare both at the sides and at the
and,
if so,
we may very
effectively
remainder would be placed at the sides, and, also, at the back of the organ, if necessary, as shown in In the case of the two-manual instrument Fig. 87. none would need to be placed at the back, as there would be plenty of room at the sides. In Fig. S8 all the larger pipes are shown arranged at the back, and the smaller ones at the sides, none being brought to the front, thus saving a little in the depih of the
instrument.
FIG.
3. DIAGRAM SHOWING THE METHOD OF MAKING THE PARTITIONS IN LOWER PART OF CARTRIDGE CASE.
size of tray partitions
The
given above
tools in
my
so as to suit
sizes.
also be
of cart-
necessary.
Two
or
brass
handles
it
should be placed one on each end of the box to lift by, when putting the case into a dog-cart, etc., etc.
lock
have found
to
be a
As
close at hand,
the time for the annual slaughter of grouse is and sportsmen are even now looking
forward with keen pleasure to the time when they may work their will unhindered on partridges and pheasants,
shows all the pipes arranged on a back of the organ and, as I anticipate that this plan will be adopted by many of my readers on account of its compactness and simplicity of action, I have set it out on a larger scale, so that a study of this plan will also enable the amateur to more readily Another understand the other systems mentioned. good arrangement which, moreover, is so simple that I have not thought it necessary to give an illustration of it, is to suppose this last sound-board to be cut in half, crosswise, placing one-half on each side of the organ, having twelve pipes on one side and thirteen This arrangement, as will be pipes on the other. readily seen by anyone who will take the trouble to put it on paper, is a very good one for the two manual,
Fig. 89
is
hoped that the manufacture of the case described above will afford some of them congenial
it
is
pipes to be
all
The
made much
are
in the
much
487
The sound-
made
6 or 7 inches long in the clear, and 2 inches deep. The widths of the channels vary from about li inch The wind-chest for CCC, to about inch for C. should be 4 inches deep. The top board, or table of the sound-board, should be about an inch thick, if no grooves are required, but
if
and the
it
may
say that
if this
grooved
off,
be necessary to put double divisions to all the channels unless very thick wood is used for the purpose, which is not by any means advisable, so that in reality there would be no
will still
making use
of the channels
must be made thicker, in order that the grooves maybe cut deep enough to convey the
used, or the table
requisite supply of wind.
thus formed.
I
have allowed
on
As a rule
mind
separate grooving-
is
this purpose.
The amateur
in the
The
pipes
manner as
in the
if
same
be
in order to
placed so that the sides come close together, but should not touch each other. Make your pipes before
The
pallets should
made
exactly the
same
stouter spring
The
pipes to
be bored in
bass pipes,
cutting
hole.
same way as
by boring two holes side by side, and away the intervening wood to form one oblong
viz.,
The
merely a circular
cir-
you make the sound-board, and, if they are circular pipes, all you will have to do will be to strike circles the size of the extreme outside diameter of the pipes, and mark them on the sound-board table side by side, and you will then see exactly how much space you require for them to stand in. With wood pipes you should cut out a square of paper or card the exact size of each pipe, and place it on the sound-board table, and mark round it in pencil. The sound-board in Fig. 89 should be 12 inches wide, and I have shown
it
wood about
it
may
in
cular hole at the top to receive the pipe foot, the hole
not be necessary to
make
quite so long.
I
If the
have shown
should be glued on to the table. The action works under the wind-chest, so care must be taken that the sound-board be raised sufficiently from the floor to admit of this. Another method of making the sound-board is shown in Fig. 91, which is very much the same as the preceding one turned on its side. This sound-board stands on the floor, and thus saves a few inches in the
height of the instrument, and, as either side of
it
will
be plenty of
speaking room.
trunks
Having completed the sound-boards, the windmay be next prepared they should be of i-inch stuff, and measure about 5 inches by 2b inches
;
internal diameter.
As
they
may be
the bellows, as
may
be most convenient
is
but in most
to place
them
at the
may be
action
that
the
movement
the
section
of the wind-
sound-boards
at
given in Fig. 92, from which it will be seen that the wind enters from the bellows at the upper
trunk
part
is
the
back
and
the
front
but this
is
not
B,
and passes
really
be simply straight sound-boards extending the whole depth of the sides, and those pipes which are placed at the back and front may stand on a grooving-board instead of being
necessary, as they
exactly over their channels.
If this
may
end
to con-
method
is
adopted
be required.
much easier to make, and the much simpler, as only one kind would The same course might be followed in
when the pedals are not required, it is usual to have a valve, worked by a stop-knob, to shut off the wind from the pedal wind-chest. This valve is shown in the section, and is opened or closed by the stop-knob acting on the upper arm of the roller the arms marked
,88
490
A
at
pallet or valve
but, of course,
there
is
on to the sharp keys, as shown at D in Fig. 96, slightly rounding them on the top and front edge. Some prefer these pieces to slope upwards a little from the
front to the back.
arm and
Now
pedal keyboard.
cills,
First pre-
each 3
feet
long and
3 inches wide the front one 2^ inches thick, and the back one il- inch thick. These may be of oak or pine
;
under each pedal, as shown in the illustration, in Fig. 97, fixing one end into the back cill, and allowing the other to run free in a groove mark on the under side of the keys.
the sides
may be
of f inch pine, 2 feet long and shown in Fig. 98, the cills
The
stuff, 5
front board
may
then be prepared of
inch
cill.
Draw
line,
or
The
same
of
1
front
rest,
may be
of the
gauge mark, along the centre of the whole length of each cill, and divide each line into thirty equal parts
with the compasses, starting from the outside edge of
the frame, thus
1
thickness,
board, as shown.
inch
stuff,
and screwed on to the top of the The back cover board may also be and should have holes bored through
tightly into these holes, as the cover
to
making each
division rather
A inch.
this,
Some
so
if
for the tops of the pins to pass through, but the pins
should not
fit
than
you like, you may make the long, and divide accordingly.
cills
all
trifle
board
may have
be removed
at
Now
draw
The top
of the
and also
secuie
felt to
and 28th. These blank spaces are those shown between E and F and between B and C in each octave, there being no sharp keys between those notes. The front row of pins should show ij inch above the cill, and the back row 4 inches. I may say that I term the cill farthest from the organ the front, and that which is nearest the casing the back
one, as
I
in Figs.
however,
it is
desired to
make
cill
a radiat-
The back
will
be
is less
likely to con-
order
is
reversed.
Now
fully
1
get out twenty-five pieces of good sound pine inch deep, about f- inch thick and 2 feet long,
Bore avertical hole carefully through one end of each bar, so that it will just slip easily on to the front row of pins, and mark where the back pin comes, and bore holes in the bars for them, elongating
side
;
curves, as
and back cover boards follow the lines of these shown by the dotted lines in the plan given
in Fig. 94.
mahogany
about ih inch' long and } inch thick, and glue and screw one over the front hole in each bar, as shown at A in Figs. 95 and 96. When
or birch
dry, bore a hole J inch diameter through the side of the key, so that it passes through the vertical hole,
it just touching the under side of the the object being to prevent unnecessary friction on the pin. The pin may pass right through
Instead of making the keys to work on a pin at the back end, as previously described, they may be made to pass through a sort of rack formed by fixing a stout pin of oak in the back cill between each key, as shown by the small circles marked on the drawing. The oak pins must be covered with cloth to prevent rattling.
Of course
kind
of keyboard, but
movement
better
must leave
it
self
whether he
will
the piece A, the hole being elongated to about inch to allow the necessary movement, or the key may be
board, as there is much difference of opinion among musicians as to the relative merits of the two varieties.
supported by the piece A resting on the top of the pin. Next prepare fifteen pieces of mahogany or birch
14 inches long,
1
The keys in modern radiating keyboards do out so much as those made years ago.
In
not spread
my
one on
each natural key, as shown at C in Fig. 95, slightly rounding them on the top and front edge.
to
shown
Next prepare ten pieces of similar wood, 4! inches and f inch thick, and glue them
panying
this
(To be continued!)
v> y
XXI.
XA
RJley
Scale 6vi-Hiot
V/i-Hbab
^
3Y
Y,
Fig.
7.
Scale x Avv-1fboL.
Fig. 13.
Salisbury Square, London, E.C.
Large Mdle
Co.,
Warwick House,
'
t
,
ScaleVprns-Kat.
N. B. Scale, Sin. Co
Hoot is
Sige,.
c vw
CJNA
Quarter Full
Scale. Guv to
'J
foot
OO O
O
O
Fig. 5.
O
Fast
Centre
Scale, 3in,-1tbot.
1
Fi^.6. Crank Shaft. Scale, 3 iw-1foot,
/ $
"J
Kg
vs
.11.
Spindle,
Clamp JVut
Scale Gin, - Hoot,
<o
Spindles Scale*
6 in,- Hbct.
CO
I
Sf
rM
00
rr^i
Fig. ]2. Spindle,
Washer
Scale, 6irv - Hoot
I
>
:Ze-
Guo-Hvob.
J.
GRAHAM
Wuro, Locr 4
Co.,
THE "COMBINATION" SAW STAND,
THE
"
49
and
their
GRAHA1I.
exact position
{For Figs.
Part)
the
different in cha-
being that for the pulley, and B for the saws, cutters, etc. The size of the lid being 3 feet 2 inches by 2 feet 10 inches, it should project over both back and front 2 inches. Its thickness should
;
fcg^P&jlOMBINATION MACHINESwhen
be
at least
inch.
quired in the main portions to produce the divers results intended are for the most part, a mistake but when, as in a lathe, which
the stand,
it is
To further extend the capacity of as well to drop bottoms into the spaces
of drawer
for raising
alteration
is
re-
between
space.
now
to
be added
back of frame.
referring to Fig.
2, it will
may be
tool, the main and sundry additions only change into a machine for circular or
On
by 2 inches, with an extended rebate at sides of 1 inch) and ends of 1} inch. Into this a piece of mahogany, Fig.
pieces
3,
is
and even planing or shaping, then the combination taking up as it does much less floor space than a separate tool for each class of work would require may be looked upon as useful and convenient. Thus it is with the machine about to be described in one frame or stand we have a foot-power circular and scroll or fret-saw, a kind of mortise and tenoning machine, a moulding machine, a light wood planing machine, and a drill for wood or metal can easily be added if re;
fitted
carefully,
or rather several
each sized
The
fitted to
We
Fig.
6.
treadle, Fig. 15, should next be made, and back of frame with hinges. may now proceed to hang the crank shaft;
It
is
The
able.
immov-
quired.
is
should be slightly
let
and
entirely within the capabilities of an ordinary amateur, possessed of even but a slight knowledge of carpentry and turning. Little extra work is required,
and screwed to it with short thick screws. The left hand end of frame should be bored to take the adjustable screwed centre-point, and the nut, Fig. 4, screwed
to the
further than the driving-wheel and crank axle, and a few small forgings easily obtained from the nearest smith, while the tools used in connection with the various processes are by no means expensive.
Fig.
1
frame
inside.
The
placed so long as
it
runs truly,
noted,
it
represents the stand or frame. As will be is divided into two portions by the partition
but two points, each 15 inches from the floor and 15 inches from the front of frame, will be found the
set of
hand being fitted with a drawers for the reception of the various tools,
to the left for the driving-wheel
most convenient.
The
size,
driving"-wheel should be
fit its
and
and
crank-shaft accurately.
three speeds
The frame should be substantially made up, li inch hard wood being sufficiently strong without being too cumbersome. The frame is 2 feet 10 inches square, and
stands 3 feet 5 inches high, and may either be put together as shown, or framed up and panelled according to
rail is 7 inches deep, the support of the sawspindle boxes, are also 7 inches deep and ii inch in thickness, mortised in at both back and front of
aboutsand should have means provided to bring either speed in a position to band fairly with the
pulley in the saw-spindle.
The front
B, for
slips
A and
frame exactly 4 inches apart, that on the left, A, being 4k inches from outside of frame. The partition, c is from same end, being a space of 1 foot 9A inches 2oi inches for the driving-wheel axle and a breadth of
9 inches for the drawers. The lid or platform is next got out, and, the apertures having been left for the pulley and saw kerf, is to
of saw and other be placed. An inspection of The lid having Fig. 7 gives the construction and size. been already placed in position, no difficulty will be experienced in placing the casting correctly. It may, however, be noted that the casting should be placed flat side upwards, and let in flush with the top edges of A and B. Should anyone not be able to obtain the boxes in their own neighbourhood, they can be got from Messrs. Booth Bros., Dublin, fitted with saw-spindle complete, for a moderate price.
The boxes
for
the reception
to
spindles have
now
to
the/rant of stand.
We may now turn our attention to the spindles. Of these, two will be required, and a couple of extra
492
HOW TO MAKE
PICTURE PR AMES.
clean,
ones found convenient. To those having a lathe it will be an easy matter to turn them up themselves.
and has one or two other advantages. and the bottom of the grooves
in
Strong
As will be on reference to the drawing, it is somewhat longer than is required, the additional portion being for the dog or carrier to grip, so that the whole spindle can be turned up without changing it end for end, ia the lathe therefore, any portion which is truly turned circular will be concentric with any other portion which is truly turned. The extra portion should therefore not be cut off until all the turning and fitting is finished. When the end is to be removed, a deep groove is made all round at the proper place (as shown
Fig. 8 gives a view of the rough forging.
both driving-
noted,
to prevent the
bands get-
Two saws should be provided at least, but three would be found handy, viz., one each for hard and soft woods, and a rip saw, all to be not more than 7 inches in diameter, that size being the most that can be driven by foot power. A small saw not more than 3 inches in diameter will also be found useful for cutting thin wood, such as picture frame backing and
fretwork.
at
in the figure), to
Fig.
10 shows the finished saw-<pindle, and Fig. 9 the finished cutter-spindle, the difference between the two being in the addition of a slight flange turned on the
right
In using the circular saw no more of the saw should be brought into cut than is required for the
hand
The collars
work on hands. The power required to drive is thus reduced to a minimum; this is accomplished by raising the table by means of the elevating screw at
back of frame, till only the required portion of the saw appears above the kerf. Care should be taken not to press on the work unduly, and to keep it true to the saw, else the saw will become heated, and spring out of true. All the saws will, of course, have a hole in centre to fit the same spindle. {To be continued.')
n
J
make
loose
A
collars
11
shown
in
Fig.
and
a
the
12,
respectively.
Though
culty in
practised
metal
diffi-
=^=~=
accurate
it
fitting
HOW
of these spindles,
will
be as
benefit
FIG.
13.
of
our
less
skilled
-NOVELTIES
IN
PICTURE FRAMES.
TREADLE
End
atC.
FOR
SAW FRAME.
A, Plan; B,
of procedure in this
FTER
are
describing fully in
my
last
paper
Elevation
work.
propose to give
styles,
designs
The
all
showing variations from the plain Oxford frame with beof different
velled edges.
be roughed out
collar
and flange turned on it to exact size, right hand The spindle should screwed end finished to size. then be taken out of the lathe, and the loose collar proceeded with. Turn up one face, reverse it ; turn up other face, bore, and turn out the hollow to fit
flange on spindle collar.
end,
fit
nut,
off
together.
The
may now
be cut
off.
The pulleys, Figs. 13 and 14, now only remain These should be heavy and fitted with a set screw to
the spindle end, a
the screws to bite.
flat
have endeavoured to show how varied, and the effect of the It will be seen on reference to frame enhanced. the design, Fig. 13, that this treatment consists of a The frame is made in the raised bead-moulding. ordinary manner, and, after being fitted together to In insure accuracy, the moulding is worked on. Fig. 14, a different treatment is shown, the surface of the frame being panelled, and the panel being either bevelled or hollowed at the sides. I need not, I think,
In Figs. 13
and
14,
this treatment
may be
being
filed
on
is
it
for the
ends of
how
is
Our frame
done, as
my
mention has been made of a crank hook. I do not advise one I much prefer a short piece of plaited sash-line, once round the crank and knotted on the underside of treadle. It works more freely, requires but little oil, is always
;
added as required.
No
amateur to work by. I may add, however, that chisels and gouges should be used to work the mouldings. A useful little instrument for regulating mouldings may be made by getting a piece of beech-wood, about 5 or 6 inches long, and inch thick, and shaped as
HOW TO MAKE
PICTURE FRAMES.
493
FIG. 13.
DESIGN
A, Section of Frame,
fig.
494
shown
in Fig.
1
is,
believe, a "
;
shoulder
is
care being taken that the at right angles three or four holes should
wood
looks well
this style,
Yankee notion," but, at any rate, it and as I have lately done some frames in
intend to give
my
admit the screws. After this is done, saw the wood through the centre lengthwise, and then screw the two halves together.
to
be bored
my
of
how
to
do the work,
First
suitable designs.
describe
how
Next make a cutter from a piece of thin steel part filing the edge so as to fit the moulding required, as shown in c, Fig. 15. This cutter is then inserted between the two pieces of wood, at the required distance from the shoulder and at the proper depth, and the screws are then driven home. Of course, this little contrivance should be used more as a regulator than as an actual maker of mouldings and the wood should be eased away, and the shape of the moulding roughly cut with
of a narrow hand-saw will do
what
In the
place,
16,
making
The
carving-tool can be
obtained from
8d. or 9d.;
and
Mr. Lunt, 297, Hackney Road, for suppose most amateurs are possessed
of a pocket-knife.
As
is
easily
strument
is
termed.
by purchasing the corks or by saving those that have already been used. What are termed "wine" corks are the best, and they can be bought
obtained, either
at prices ranging from is. 2d. to Is. 9d. per gross. Care should be taken to obtain those that are close and firm in the grain. Corks that have been previously used for beer, wine, lemonade, or kindred purposes, will answer nearly as well as new ones, the only disadvantage is that they are frequently destroyed by the corkscrew in drawing them. If corks of a proper size are obtained, the carving-tool can be dispensed with, and the whole of the work done with
firmly held
and the
cutler is
new
than a plane.
Should the cutter get blunt, it can easily be sharpened by rubbing both sides on an ordinary oilstone, and then rubbing straight across the face with a slip of Arkansas stone that fits the shape. The
cutter shown in my sketch is simply a hollow, and would do for regulating the bead of the Oxford frame shown in Fig. 13. Of course, this "scratch" will be available for numerous odd jobs, and can, I have no doubt, be improved upon by the ingenious amateurBut to return to our frames. In most home-made frames the Oxford is the shape chosen, and which generally forms the groundwork for those wondrous combination frames that are occasionally met with. Many persons who have neither the appliances nor the requisite skill for making the orthodox oak frame, still wish to have some kind of frame for their pictures, and wish to save the expense of buying frames, and it is in these home-made frames that we must look for novelties.
I
The
frame, which
first,
is
to serve as a groundwork,
must be made
and
for this
purpose
we
require a
piece of deal, or other soft wood, inch thick, the width of course depending upon the size of the frame.
If the
frame
is
to
be
oval,
it
fret-saw,
either
a thin piece of deal, with the inside of the oval i inch larger, but of the same outside size, can be cut with the fret-saw and screwed
scribed in
last article, or
my
and although
this is
a slovenly plan, it answers the purpose. If the Oxford shape is desired, then the frame
is
have,
in
out-of-the-way places,
noticed
these
made
joints
in the
home-made frames of nearly every conceivable shape and style, and composed of the most unlikely materials
but the
same way as I have previously described, same care need not be taken to make the
accurately, as these will be covered with
fit
pine cones to paper, and from cork to cockle-shells, which were not only useful for the
from
cork.
The
the front
of the
rebate can be brought to within i inch of frame, as the edge will not be
it
purpose intended, but were in some cases a decided ornament to the room. At seaside places, for instance I have often met with frames composed chiefly of
arranged in patterns, and with the interstices covered over with sand to hide the bare wood groundwork. Other home-made frames I have seen made of
shells
is
advisable to avoid
The
fir
cones
but
think
made
of cork.
I have also lately noticed a new style of gold frame, ornamented with a kind of incised work, which
corks should
now be
cutting
across,
HOW TO MAKE
frnt the pieces
cut
PICTURE FRAMES.
advisable.
49
same
thickness.
must be well sharpened until a very keen edge is obtained and in cutting it should be used with a drawing kind of motion, in the same way that a barber uses a razor in shaving, and
knife used for cutting
;
The
This frame
is,
in reality,
carved in cork
it
but inin
would be
wood,
pieces.
it is
then
cut
is
it
if
a straight
a ragged appearance.
If the corks are of the proper circumference, the
but if they are larger than required, a mould of the proper size should be cut out of a piece of zinc, and
the corks cut to that size with the tool.
course, essential that the pieces are
size.
all
It
is,
of
of the
same
is built up of many Nearly any design can be utilized in the same way, but in this case I have decided on fruit and foliage, to avoid any very delicate cutting, and affording at the same time a fair specimen of this description of home-made frame. The frame intended for the groundwork is made in the same way as the Oxford above described, the rebate in this case also being brought well to the front. The corks required for
this
When
been
cut,
a sufficient number of circular slices have they can be cut in half, and the edges serin F, Fig. iS
;
close
and firm
in the grain
and if the frame is oval, then the inner edge requires to be cut of a concave shape, as shown in E, Fig. 18. The surface and edges of the frame had better be roughened with a file or rasp, so that the glue may adhere more firmly. The pieces of cork require now to be glued on to the edges of the
frame with strong but thin glue. Of course, the shape of these pieces and the pattern of the frame can be altered in various ways, to suit the individual
tastes of the
rated as
shown
it will be for the However, of whatever size they may be, the first process will be to cut a number of slices inch thick and as wide as possible, to act as a kind of veneer. The frame should be roughened as before, and then the whole, excepting of course the back, should be covered with these thin slices of cork, and
amateur.
,-
has
set,
amateur
in fact,
must be regulated either with the knife or with a razor until a smooth even surface is obtained, on which the parts in relief are to be placed.
After this veneering process
leaves,
is
as suggestions that
may
be improved on.
After the
edges of the frame are finished, and the glue has set firmly, the other pieces forming the face of the frame can be glued on, ar.d after they are dry, then the
cross pattern can be also glued on.
and fruit of the design must be cut out, and glued on piece by piece until the whole design has been built up care being taken to make the joints fit
as closely as possible.
The edges
Our frame
appears
is
now
so far finished,
and
it
only
serrated,
remains to hide the remainder of the wood that in the interstices between the pattern, and this can be done in two ways, viz., either by grinding up some cork until it is nearly as fine as sand and
being cut in a
sprinkling
it on, or by cutting small squares of cork and sprinkling it on, first of all covering the exposed surface of the wood with glue and the outside edge
;
frame
of the frame can be treated in a similar manner. Our is now nearly finished, and merely requires a couple of coats of coachmakers' varnish to make it
complete, and
I
whole of the pieces are glued on, the only thing to be done will be to regulate any of the joints that appear Give the cork work two coats of at all uneven. varnish, and the frame is finished. In appearance, and in the labour that must be expended in its manufacture, this style of frame is a medium between leather work and carved wood,
_
requiring
the latter.
less
than
think
it
will then,
by
its
appearance,
amply repay the maker for the time he has spent upon it. For the more artistic of my readers I give in Fig. 19 a sketch of a frame of a more elaborate nature, and which entails a far greater amount of skill and taste, whilst it possesses the advantage of being, when finished, a really artistic ornament to any apartment. I have given a section (c, Fig. 19) and a front view of
one corner of this frame only, in order to save space, but the remainder can easily be filled in by the reader, and the four corners can be made alike but a sym;
I advise all my readers who have a taste for this kind of work to try their 'prentice hand in these cork frames, as I feel assured that they will never regret spending some of their leisure time in making, at a
is
the
same time
substantial
mental.
I
my
making
I
and
gold, to
which
496
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
OLIDAY
time,
of
similar
form,
but
of
I
greater
power,
known
as
the
and
2,
29s.,
and the
Nothing
same money.
who work
is
not as generally
sufficient
Although the old saying, "Like father, like son," is true as most others of its kind, there
truth in
it
matters but
to
warrant
it
its
more, and
point in this
will, as usual,
culminating
It
indeed,
is far
month of August, which by general consent seems to be commonly accepted as the best season for leaving home for a few days or weeks, as the case may be, and seeking in change of locality and temporary abandonment of daily work that rest and recreation so helpful both to mind and body when the time comes for getting into harness again. Now,
whether alone or in company, it is, or at all events ought to be, the chief end and aim of all who keep holiday, to endeavour to
see,
that every
man's
tastes,
enough resemblance, in one an argument in favour of its retento follow the professions or
who do not
possess
some
habit,
trait
common
with those to
whom
and
owe
and
therefore to
know,
as
much
as possible of the
localities
they
maybe
visiting, or
maybe
this,
field-
and surely
as gout
and rheu-
passing before
appear to
be handed
to
down
son.
in
In doing them, especially when at the seaside. there is nothing more helpful than a good telescope or
glass,
In
which
be
distin-
specially noticeable,
it
and
if
guished by the
human
to see
man's vision,
must have
is
many objects
that otherwise
will
manifest
the
son.
sooner or later
but
generally
remained to him as though they did not exist, without the trouble of moving from the spot where he may be standing
or sitting.
if
sooner
in
field-glasses,
it
will
be argued,
they are to be of any genuine use, are costly articles, and beyond the reach of most persons of moderate means. That but recently Messrs. J. Theobald this has been so, I admit and Co., Opticians, 20, Church Street, Kensington, London, W., have brought it within the means of all to provide them;
companion of
this
kind by the
as the
known
is before me, measuring J\ in. by by 1} in., and which bears on the cover the legend, "Mora's Photoleum Process." This appears to me to afford not only a suitable present for the children of amateurs, who are fond of photography and painting combined, and who may like to encourage their little ones to imitate them in their pursuits as far as possible, but also an easy method of colouring photographs in an effective and pleasing manner to those who are unpractised in, or, to speak more
"Combination Telescope" and "Acme Field-Glass," which are well and strongly made, and finished in a manner that
excites surprise,
sidered,
The
carrying
little
when
is
con-
out
box containing the requisite appliances for " Mora's Photoleum Process," is sold by
and compared with that of instruments that are more bit more serviceable. The Combination
is
Messrs. Partridge
house,
Street,
I
&
and
2,
Telescope
made
in three sizes:
No
I,
6 inches long,
;
opening to 17 inches, price, carriage free, 12s. fid. No. 2, Np. 3, 10 %\ inches long, opening to 24 inches, 22s. 6d.
;
and
easy,
Chancery Lane, and 191 and 192, Fleet price being 2s. 6d. The process is simple
When
tinted
by
this
process,
black
and a separate astronomical eye-piece and sun-glass for examination of the stars and sun. As I have had an opportunity of testing both No. 1 and No. 3, I can speak with confidence of the value and excellence of these glasses, and of their great power and clearness, bringing distant objects
within the range of vision with a distinctness that
marvellous.
that
is is
been subjected to it, appears to be coloured with the utmost care and delicacy of execution, and to have been done by a hand well skilled in manipulations of this kind. But on examining the phophotograph that
has
tograph that
secret of the
is
sent in the
effect is
good
for
it is
seen at
may
really
colour,
on a piece of
shades
the
There
is
only one
thing
to
be desired, and
I
which
colouring.
The photogmph
to
itself
is
venture to
suggest
would be highly
if
they could
charge.
back of another piece of plass, the two pieces of glass and the photograph forming together a kind of artistic sandwich. A
rendered semi-transparent,
and applied
the
way
to
supply them
at
an additional
The "Acme
instrument, in
strap, will
spring snap
and
backing of cardboard is placed behind the piece of glass to which the colours are applied, and the layers are then bound together by a strip of black paper gummed round the edges.
tourists.
Any
articles that
may be
desired
etc.,
to
appear prominently,
painted on the
It is sold for
6d.
but glasses
may be
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
back of the
first
497
It
is
Full
be placed anywhere.
or three minutes, and
directions are printed within the cover of each box, for the
To
those
who have
a mere
trifle
volved in the work, and the box further contains two glasses
an experimental essay, with prepared paste, oil, spirits, and the medium necessary for the work, a piece of very fine glass-paper for thinning down the photograph, some oil colours in collapsible tubes, and a couple of brushes in fact, every requisite for carrying out the process, and therefor
machine
itself
can be used as a
compound
The amount
power required
that used
to drive the
by thoroughly testing it. Messrs. H. and E. J. Dale, manufacturers of High Class Photographic Cabinet Work, Operative Chemists, and Scientific Instrument Makers, 26, Ludgate Hill, E. C, have
sent
when
work,
is
less
than one-half of
when
turning.
made
size,
from 3
in. to
in. in
height
to
21, according to
me
their
new
list,
as well as
a special price
prices
list
from
to
13.
Amateurs, however,
who
require a
size
and
machine of
and
in putting
up
Amateurs
by
referring to one of
Mr. Lee's
who
Mr. A.
S.
Lunt, Saw,
Manu-
facturer, 297,
H. & E. J. Dale's catalogues. Visits to their showrooms are invited by the Messrs. Dale. Ama:eur bookbinders in search of fillets, pallets, edgerolls, ornaments, and letters for bookbinding, should apply to Messrs. George Royle and Son, Bookbinders' Tool Cutters, Manufacturers of Cast Brass Type, Stamp Engravers, and Die Sinkers, 6, Lovelts Court, Paternoster Rozu, London, E.C , who will forward price-list and patterns on application. Messrs. Royle and Son also supply colours for marbling the edges of books, with instructions. I have no doubt that
Messrs.
household use.
The boxes
initials cut
as dies for
Mr. Joseph Lewis, Engineer, Machinist, Lathe and Tool Maker, 37, New Oxford Stred {opposite Afudie's Library), sends
Fret,
me
Combined
Drill,
and Circular Saw Machine, which he says has now been before the public for six years, and is used by many amateurs, and in various light and fancy trades. The
machine
to fix
for
3, but complete
drill,
10s,
prices charged.
I
Amateurs should note Mr. Lewis's address, for he makes patterns, and supplies castings of every description, which many may require, and yet be unable or unwilling to make them for themselves.
Mr. R. A. Lee, Engineer, 76, High Hoiborn, W.C.,
sends
Warrington,
that
is
for
to say,
ings
me
and Slotting Machine, which can be fixed on any turning lathe, and which amateurs who are possessed of a lathe will find a most valuable adjunct to this lathe for a variety of
purposes.
to
worthy of the attention of any person who may wish to save his coal, and the heat and dirt arising from its use during the
will doubtless
be sent to anyone
who
As
the
name
work
may be
Cirars,
interested in cooking
by
13,
gas.
St.
be shaped and finished in an ordinary lathe, which otherdone only in costly machines, specially adapted for the purpose. For slotting, grooving,
Bride
Street,
Ludgate
E.C,
I.,
and by
this
time three or
and truing-up, it is simply invaluable, inasmuch as it does all the work of the ordinary shaping machine, at one-fourth
the cost of the latter.
it
Bonk
for Jewellers
to
No
extra
room
is
required for
it,
as
when
designs for
modern
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
AMATEURS
IN COUNCIL.
will
III.,
and
commenced
[The Editor reserves to himself the right of refusing a reply to any question that may be frivolous or Inappropriate, or devoid of general interest. Correspondents are requested lo bear in mind that thelrquerlea will be answered only in the pages of the Magazine, the information Bought being supplied for the benefit of its readers generally as well as for those who have a special interestin obtaining it. In no caee can any reply be sent by post.]
part of that volume. Tour letter and sketches shall be forwarded to the gentleman who will contribute these articles, so that your special want may receive attention.
Wires for Binding Pamphlets. B. B. writes : Messrs. Churchill & Co. have brought out a paper-fastener for printers and bookbinders, which answers
remarkably
well,
as the costly
tool,
Book on
C. J.
Ij.
Octopus Glue.
Clericus writes My experience of the use of Octopus Glue is almost identical
:
(King's College).
with that of C. M. [Fulham). I also tried it on some picture frames, because I thought it would be so much more convenient in the use, and was not a little mortified to find it worse than useless, as it leaves a mark wherever it touches, and does not hold in the slightest degree. Nor will it keep, for the small bottle which I got a few weeks ago is becoming quite turbid, and The emits au offensive mouldy smell. Gloy, which is simply Dextrine, is useful
as a substitute for gum or paste. I am glad to have an opportunity of expressing my high appreciation of Amateur Work, which I have taken from the commencement. It i3 an excellent publication just the thing that was needed by amateurs, and seems to increase in value every month. Th'3 pa^es devoted to " Notes on
ted with " any book of moderate price dealing practically with various electric machines, such as the construction of dynamo and storage batteries (with details and drawings), with the different kinds of batteries and the uses to which they are individually best adapted, of fitting up the incandescent lamp for domestic use, together with bints on the methods of safely handling the wires and machines, and also with the prices of all requisite materials, such as wires, chemicals, etc." All these matters, however, will be fully handled from the amateur's point of view in this Magazine in which papers by Mr. George Edwinson have already appeared on " Electric Bells," "Electro Plating at Home," and "The Domestic Electric Light."
beyond the reach of amateurs." Price of with package of assorted staples, Is. 2d. and 2s. id. It is stated that a boy can bind2,C00 to 3,000 pamphlets a day with
this little tool.
Filling
C. S.
to a neat joint, and one in which the parts fit closely together, the better way is to take a fresh piece of wood (or pieces, if necessary), and make another. It is difficult to advise you without knowing the precise nature 'of your failure but if you
(1.)
M.
make
Shocks from Coils and Leyden Jars. Magneto. Mr. Edwinson says: "Shocks
should not be indiscriminately administered from induction coils and Leyden jars, and other apparatus charged with electricity at a high potential. The shocks are painful to persons of sensitive temperaments, ami may prove highly injurious if not fatal to those suffering from heart disease, or subject to fits. Practical joke3 of such a questionably safe character should be discouraged. If you wish to test the effect on yourself, merely span the space between the poles with the little finger and the thumb of one hand, and thus allow the charge to pass through the hand alone." Mr. Edwinson, as it has been already stated, will describe a plate induction machine when space can be spared for the article.
Novelties," and "Amateurs in Council," must be a great boon to many inquirers. [Your request for instructions in making a skylight shall receive prompt attention. I very seldom put in type any of the good opinions my correspondents are pleased to express with regard to this Magazine, but as a contributor, in sending me au article has taken exception to "Notes on Novelties," as being a medium for advertising the goods of certain firms, I take this early opportunity of referring all who may hold this opinion, to my first paper under this heading in Part I., and to sny that all articles hkely to be useful to amateurs when sent to me, or otherwise brought under my attention for notice, are, I trust, impartially reviewed, just as books sent for notice are reviewed in the daily and weekly press, that I aoi ready to notice the specialties of any and every firm that may wish me to do bo, and that if somefirmsare more alive to the advantage to be derived from notices such as appear in my "Notes on Novelties," this surely can afford valid reason for others who do not appear to be
do it by letting in a piece of wood neatly, and securing it with glue. saws are numbered (2.) Griffin's from the finest, No. 1, to the coarsest, No. 10. (3 ) The planing machine mentioned in the April part, is not that to which allusion was made in the January part. This is another case of a man making an offer which is accepted, and then breaking his promise, to contribute; and what tends to aggravate his breach of good faith is, that he permits four or five letters to be written to him, which must have reached their destinafill,
none of them have heen returned t deliberately leaves them without reply.
tion, as
and
Handy Book-Case.
A.
W. K:
{Bhagalpur)
is
are noticed. It is quite as reasonable and right to notice a new tool, or a new specialty, produced by any manufacturer, as a new book brought out by any publisher; aad I can assure my readers, individually ami collectively, th it I intend to go on in this w.iy, as I liave now done for near years, because I believe, honestly and sincerely, that it is to their interest and benefit that I should do so, for many thus have articles of obvious utility brought under their notice, which otherwise they might
diagrams and measurements of book-case, but if he will refer to Amateur Work, for January, 1883, (Part XIV.), he will find that his contribution has already appeared, and that its originality has been disputed in subsequent parts in " Amateurs iu Council," This fact by no means detracts from the merits of A. "W. K.'s design, for the occurrence of the same idea to two different persons is by no means singular. Paint on Hall Lamp. W. P. To remove the paint from the rim of your brass lamp, iise Ben die's "Electric Paint Eemover," prepared and sold by Messrs. W. E. Rendle and Co., 3, Wcstr Chambers, Victoria Streebt S.Wi This preparation was noticed in "Notes on Novelties," page 94, Vol. I., where 3 on will find a description of its action, and the results obtained by its use, both on wood
letter with
must not be
less
than
315 decrees Fahrenheit, and the pressure not less than 75 pounds to square inch, and con-
tinued for about ninety minutes, an amateur will see the difficulty of arranging apparatus for the work.
"W. A.
on the
the
some remarks that have been made lightness and apparent fragility the pattern: Anyone objecting to
lightness
of
parts
at
the
point
whence the flowers spring, could easily strengthen it by leaving a stop, like that left in the centre of the flowers. But I find
does equally as well to strengthen those points afterwards with a little glue at the back, fastening it to the velvet or darkwood background. When cutting it in quadruplicate out of four pieces J-inch wcod screwed together, I can make the lines much finer th*n they appear in the design. This ought not to be hard, for it is
it
and metal.
;
It
is
sold in 5
lb.
of.
Ed.]
Simple
J. II.
(
Home Made
il
Clifton).- Arrangements
made with
also
a practic
each but probably you might be able to obtain a smaller quantity. Your paper is under consideration, but you have merely attached your mine to it without any address. All papers should have both the name and address of the writer written on the firtt or last folio.
to do
by no means as fine work as one would have if he was cutting for inlaying. And this reminds me -if the design is con-
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
sidered fragile in the -working, it can be worked by those Thinking' so in the shape of overlaid fretwork, i.e., fastening the cutout work on to the dark-vrood background in a way similar to veneering. This would get rid of all fear of breakage in fact, would enable one even after the breakage, to put the broken pieces together.
499
where suitable string will be obtained if the purpose to which it is to be applied is mentioned. Now make a large loop on the end of the string which is wound on the needle, on to this net 24 loops which will make the width of the hammock 3 feet, now net backwards and forwards until 64 loops or rows are completed which will make the length 6 feet, then thread down each side a piece of cord, the thickness of a lead pencil, and not less than S feet long, fastening the ends round a " dead eye " or ring hollow on the outside, now gather up all the loose loops at the ends, pass through
Lathes.
J. T. P. (Briton) replies to 0. G. {Robart Toioi). If you are thinking of buying
INrOBSLATION SUPPLIED.
Quean Anne Furniture. A. SI. (Glzsgovc) writes in reply to L. "W. E. : I enclose a sketch of monogram. As it would be very confused in simple fret-
metal trifle more, nd have a reliable article to begin with. In turning with a small lathe, it is surprisinghow soon you feel the want of a larger article, that it is really time and money saved in the end, especially in your case, having to ship out. It would also be benefor light
lathe,
mora particularly
ficialthough not absolutely essential to have a back-geared lathe, and also with a gap bed. This gives you various speeds for light and heavy work, and gap bed allows work of large diameter to be operated upon. The extra cost for these two improvements s trifling compared with results obtained. I can thoroughly recommend one I have now had in use over twelve months, it is a 3 inch centre, 3D inch bed, turning work 1 feet long by 6 inch diameter, made by the Britannia Company, Colchester, England, price 4 cs.jou walnut top stand, three-speed flywheel complete; but I had mine mounted on their No. 13 stand, which is considerably heavier, and very steady in action, and has a much more powerful flywheel of four speeds. This arrangement will cost you 15s. more, but I can say it is well laid out ( considering the additional power I get enables me to drive a circular saw, 6 inches in diameter, and do all kinds of picture frame work, mitring, rabbeting, slotting and grooving, and so oa. The same firm also 3upply a great variety of useful attachments, several of which *I have, and find them all what they claim them to be, notably their long arm freteutting attachment on the vertical principle, taking in work of good size, and cutting inch and half thick easy as veneers. I have also the Essex chuck with twist drills, and find it
excellent for light metal work; you would find it very serviceable and accurate. I canalso recommend for light work in general,
them a
piece of
up to
the ring, this^is to keep the loops out of the way. "When it is desired to hang the hammock, pieces of cord must be passed through the ring and slung on a book or round a tree, a piece of stick, 38 to 24 inches long notched at each end and placed between the cords at top and bottom, will keep the netting stretched open.
Fretwork Epergne. M. (London) advises A. K. (Soham) by no means to use gold paint to his e'pergne. It is not gold, and it does not
C. J.
MJXOGRAM,
L.
W.
E.
work, I have shaded it in such a way to relieve it more, which should be done in execution by hollowing the shaded parts.
look like gold, and turns black in no time. If he gives the article two coats of strong parchment size, he can put anything on it, both leaf and gold paint. Unless he doesn't wish the grain of the wood to show, he must lay on several coats of size and whiting, made about the consistency of cream. He had much better use leaf gold.
Tool for Catting Mouldings. Ahigo sends the following reply to E. "W. (Readley) The best tool for forming a
:
moulding around the edge of a table top is a "high pitched" moulding plane. Two of these will be required, right and left
handed, so that the grain of the wood may be contended with. The term "high pitched" is applied to a plane whose iron makes with the face a greater iron than is commonly used. A friend of mine possesses a plane of this description, and I have seen smooth work produced by it on the hardest,
curliest, crossgrainede3t
merely
C. J. M.'s opinion.
Ed.]
M. {London)
mahogany that
both metal and wood, the No.l lathe and fret saw, a combination of several tools in one machine. I had one in constant use for two years, and only parted with it for the larger concern I now have, and which I would feel
pleasure in showing you were you nearer home, and give you any further assistance possible. They have just brought out a new
lathe at 55s., 2 inch centre, but can be blocked up to suit larger work. I should add this blocking up is a peculiar feature and advan-
any unfortunate could mast. The angle formed by the iron of this plane with the wood operated upon is, as near as I can measure,
aboat 64 degrees. The cutting edge i3 also rather "thi^k." I hive seen "scratch" tool3 for beading but not for moulding. These are, as E. W. observes, made by their
user3.
Difficulties of
Amateurs in the
following for the infor-
for Lathe. Amigo sends the following reply to W. S. (Lon-osde.); With respect to this query more information is required. W. S. should have stited, as near as he could, the circumstances under which it wonld b? applied; for instance, the site of his workshop or dwelling, the height of same, whether there are other houses adjoining or in the vicinity likely to affect the action of a windmill or motor, the size of his lathe, anl last, hut not least, the material at his disposal, and limit of expense. I could give several dl^erent nieThodsof applying wind powe*, hat the chances are that they would not suit. If W.S. will give these fewparticiJars, I will endeavour to assist as far 03 I can,
Wind Power
tage in the lathes made by this Company. For further particulars see their illustrated prospectus, post free on application.
Colonies.
Hammocks.
sends the following reply to II. J, (Finsbury): Having made several strong serviceable hammocks for myself pud friend, I give here my mode o procedure, lathe first place, I presume H. J. knows how to net, if not he must get some one to teach him, as it is almost impossible to do so on paper, but if there is no one he knows who can net, I will endeavour to show him on paper, if he will send me his address; of course, I am now supposing that he knows nothing about it. Procure a wooden mesh, say 1? inches wide, with needle to match, which may be bought at any twine shop for a few pence, and
Half Jack
mation of C. G. {RobartTown, Tasmania) and others who may require it. Ink for writing on glass may be obtained from J. Sabatin, 9, Bread Street KM, London, at Is. 6d. per bottle (guttapercha), postage to Tasmania 2s. for under two ounces, about its weight. Griffin's Fret-saws can ba obtained from Messrs. Churchill, who would, I am sure, if you sent them a list of your requirements, obtain for you those things they could not supply, and pack all off to you at a cheap
I feel sure that there must be many intending cuiigrants among the readers of Amateur "Work: who would glally bring out a supply of such articles as are needed by the amateur, and retail them at a sum sufficient to cover the expense thereof.
rate.
500
Design for Overmantel.
E. Johnston, who has sent a design for an overmantel in answer to Chips, is re-
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
Silvered Glass for Mirrors, etc.
J.
Eldograph.
(R'chmond) writes: I. M. (Kirkseems to be inquiring as to the nature of the Eidograph. It is an improved form of the Pantograph, and is used for the same purposes. An illustration of it is given by Elliott Brothers, 449, Strand, in their litt of Mathematical instruments; the price is 10 10s. ; my list is dated 1874. It is al-o illustrated and described in "Knight's Practical Dictionary of Mechanics," p. 775.
caldy) p. 339,
M. H.
(Alnwick)
who has
inquired
E.
W.
he may obtain bevelled silvered "Lily Mirror," is informed that he may procure all kinds and sizes of this material of Messrs. Hargee Brothers, Settle, Yorkshire. Other readers in want of glass for brackets, etc., should make a note
where
of this.
French Polishing. AmigO sends the following reply to Antipodean : I take it that our friend wishes to polish the inside part of the work or that
formed by the saw. This is not customary, and in small work impracticable. The best
is to use varnish, applied with a camelhair brush. One coat of this will suffice for inside work unless very open, and two coats
(violet), 90 grains;
1
hoihng
half
distilled water,
a teaspoouful; as glycerine. The crystals of the violet dye to he powdered and rubbed up with the boiling water, and the other ingredients to be stirred in. The
unce;
glycerine,
treacle, half as
much
INFORMATION SOUGHT.
best plan to adopt to bend bamboos ? so that arms of chairs, etc., can be made.
plan
for outside.
Fixing Gilt Cornice on Valance Board. T. H. (Settle) writes in reply to J. T. F. (Brixton), who asks how to fix a cornice on
to valance board. The cornice should be made entirely separate from the valance board to the size required. The valance board is then made, with sufficient space being allowed at ends for the fixing of fringe. The fringe is hung on a small hook, which is driven in on one side and both ends of valance board, and by this means can easily be fixed orremoved. The valance board is screwed fast in its position on brackets, and the cornice is made to slide on small hooks, which may be obtained of
any ironmonger.
Hard Stopping for Wood, Amioo sends the following reply to Exon : The most durable stopping that I know of for cracks in panels, etc., is made
whiting with white lead. but this won't always match the colour it has the merit, however, of holdiDg on. by mixing a
little
existing inequalities from the saw should be removed with a knife or file. Be assured that the varnish is perfectly dry before removing the blots which gather on the face of the work, otherwise in rubbing down the dust will cling and disfigure the varnished parts. Amigo sends the following reply to J. H. (Dudley) : " Spiriting off," or "fixing," as some call it, is a final process in polishing, and is similar in action, except that instead of polish, a few drops of spirits of wine on the same rubber and a very light, swift hand used. The spirits removes the oil which has been used in polishing, and prevents the acquired polish from becoming spot dimmed and dull.
polishing. T. H. (Settle) wishes to inform Antipo-
Any
Polishing Horns.
E. B. (Penge) writes: I have a pair of Koodoo horns, which I brought from S. Africa some years ago. Can you answer me,
through Amateue Woke, how I am to set about polishing them ? Black Stain for Bamboo. Beauchamp asks What is the best
:
stain for staining bamboos black. I want to produce a dull jet black upon the yellow
I think it will be a difficult matter, as the outside of the bamboo is so smooth. Would sulphuric acid be of use ?
bamboo, but
for Baths.
writes: I shall be obliged if you will inform me what is the cheapest and best method for constructing
a hot bath tbat will provide about 30 gallons of hot water in some reasonable time. I have a room and range which I could set apart for the purpose.
Some use
shellac,
;
dean that he will find that to attempt to French polish fret-work will be both difficult and tedious, and in some cases no improvement to the appearance of the
article operated upon.
Different kinds of
wood require
different treatment.
Walnut,
C. J.
vises
M. him
worked
ringers.
(London), in reply to Exon, adto use white lead oud whiting to putty-like consistency in the
two or three
con tings of boiled linseed oil at intervals, and without any polish, and has not the
A Poor Man.
I will
endeavour to procure
Pipes from Potatoes. Chemicals sends the following reply to Light-keeper : The particulars given in
the extract are not very explicit, but the substance referred to is no doubt a crude " cellulose." The quantity of acid required would, of course, depend on the quantity of potato, but I should think very liitle would do, for if potatoes are boiled in strong acid sugar would be formed. I doubt whether the authorities would allow of its being sent by post, for it is dangerous. Trade price here for small quantities, Id. per lb. chemist's price, 3d. I shall be happy to get you some, if you find a difficulty in doing so. Unless your meat-can is well tinned, it would be better to use a porcelain or glass vessel, and I do not think there would be any need to add more acid, only water. I hope, however, in a week or so to have some spare time, when I will try it myself and let you know the result. [Will Chemicals send his name and address with any future communications. He offers to get a certain article for Light-keepee, but it is not possible to forward any application to him without having his address.
daubed appearance which many amateurs Oak, and some other give their work.
and
light woods, require one coating of oil, it is best to apply this with a camel's-
hair brush, as being most likely to enter the most intricate paits), rub down with a few rubbers of white polish, and finish with fine white varnish. In most cases a good appearance will be obtained with half the trouble it would require for polishing. To those who will not submit to have their work finished with anything but the polish, there is nothing but great patience and painstaking will accomplish it. T. H.
(Dudley)
:
the information you require, and thus help you, but I cannot undertake to make purchases of lenses, etc., for you. Cantium. An excellent example of a rustic porch ia given in the present part. Address any inquiry you wish to make to the Editor, and he will see that your requirements are satisfied, if it be possible to do so. L.W.E. Instructions will be given for makiog printing presses. If my memory serves me rightly this query has been answered already. The other shall be answered next
(Settle)
writes in reply to J. H.
" Spiriting off " is given wben the French polish has been applied in sufficient body, and the oily appearance of the work has to be removed. With a clear rubber, methylated spirits is applied, care being required that this is given up at the right moment, when the clear mirror-like appearance is obtained.
C. J. M. (London\ replying to J. H. " (Dudley), informs him that " spiriting off
is the last act in the process when spirit only is used to " kill" the oil that has been
The
month. ** Communications from the following are acknowledged and will receive attention next month. All queries are answered or attended to immediately when it is possible to do so, but when replies are deferred, it must be understood that it is owing to want
of space, to difficulty in obtaining the information asked for, to the inquiry having
cause that
came to hand too late, or to some other is beyond the Editor's control. E. W. (Richmond) j Chocrba; Amigo
;
T. D. (Glasgow); C. J. M. (London). L.
col. 1,
M.
V.
(AmbUtide);
of
Bath/
Ed.]
make
it
page 451, for "Messrs. Phinsaul Bros." (Ironmongers, Plymouth,) read Messrs. Plimsaul Bros.
IT.
5i
HOW
TO MAKE
IT.
EDWARD HEROS-ALLEN.
{continued).
grooves on back and belly, wiping off superfluous moisture with a cloth. This will throw any defects in the uniformity of the grooves into prominence,
this will enable you the better to correct any such irregularities. When this has been done, you Purfling, as I will be ready to put in your purfling. have said before (Vol. I., page 256), is composed of a
and
VI, THE BELLY
jHE
next step
is
strip of plain
the back, for the reasons already set forth, namely, to secure the back and
belly at these points
wood
when
fitting
them
to the sides,
before the iron cramps were used for this purpose. You will notice that every Stradiuarius violin has
wood between two strips of the same some have supposed, a The exstrip of rosewood between two of ebony). ceedingly delicate diameter of these strips may be imagined, when we reflect that the three glued tostained black (not, as
them
gether and inlaid only present a diameter of TV inch. Purfling may be bought of any fiddle-maker and I
;
by the
should advise the amateur to purchase his purfling ready cut, though
I
in
Fig. 44.
Al-
shall
to
tell
him
It
how
it
prepare
in
for himself.
is
sold
two
sepaof
are
m
FIG. 45. MODE OF WORKING PURFLING.
forms
rate
in
strips
FIG. 46.
FORMATION
to
your
and
also
as
ther
is
sandwich,
the
latter
fiddle as a copy.
perhaps
to
the
easier
with,
ribly
split,
work
is
but
ter-
liible
to
and
in
in putit
ting
it
will
be
meets the
necessary to dip
mm.
POSITION OF PEG IN BACK OF STRADIVARI VIOLIN.
(not long
theendsinthehot
water of the gluepot for an instant
so that half
is
the hole
in the groove.
Make
and also similar ones in the belly at top and bottom, and then cut your four pegs These are made out of a rod of maple, not to fit. highly figured, but of a colour which contrasts with the maple of the back. Cut the rod to a long, round point, like a pencil, cut off the extreme end, and finish with a file, so that it exactly sticks into the hole you have made; cut off the point about | inch long, and tap it into the hole, so as to stick whilst you fit the When all are cut, dip each one into glue, and rest. fix it into its hole with a good smart tap, and leave them to dry thoroughly. When this is accomplished,
bottom
to correspond,
the strong
bouts.
enough to unglue it) before giving the ends bend necessary at the corners and centre
experienced
fiddle-maker will
An
always
than chance a
black, as thin as
you can
cut
it,
for convenience'
by
2 feet,
and reduce
it
by
means of scraping
make them
flush
with the back, and cut off as much from the sides of the pegs as projects into the groove cut for the
purfling,
Now make one edge absolutely straight and true (by means of a steel rule and knife), and then cut it up, by the same means, into strips -^ inch broad. When you have got double as much black as white, you can proceed to fit it to
thickness of ~j inch at the most. the grooves, commencing, as usual, with the inner bouts.
C's,
which
will
full
reduce
it,
as in Fig. 44.
all
Now
or
take a brush
round the
Take
and one
502
THE
VIOLIN:
HOW TO MAKE
;
IT.
white), or a piece of sandwich which you judge to be long enough to fit the bout you are working on
make
if carefully looked for, in the works of the finest Cremonese masters. Now take a flat file, and rub right round the tops of the edges
up
shown
in Fig. 43,
and carrying the strips round to the other corner, fit them into the other corner with another bevel, which you must be rather careful about not to make too short, fitting it, in point of fact, much the same as
you
fitted
already.
Next proceed
your ribs into the mould, as described to fit in another three from
If
(left as in Fig. 33), with a view to cleaning them and removing any slight inequalities which may have invaded them since they were last corrected. Now open the spring compass (a, Fig. 10) Jj of an inch, and draw a line all round the edges of the instrument, open them again inch, and draw a second line round the edge inside the first from which it is consequently distant ^. (It will be observed that this operation resembles, in all respects, excepting its measurements, the processes by which we originally sunk the edge, as shown by Fig. 33.) Now take a gouge and sink a
possible,
)
trough
all
In the belly
it
the
job, for
you need not care about making so exquisite a the purfling will be cut away at the top to receive the neck, and will be hidden by the finger-board, and at the bottom to receive the rest, and will be hidden by the tail-piece. For the
to put the pegs you have got the purfling fitted all round, you can proceed to glue it. For this purpose the purllings must be taken out, a
it
same reasons,
is
often omitted
(Fig.
When
between the lines, and make smooth and even. Lower the wood also at the corners by gouging down between the points of the purfling, so that the sinking round the edge follows the guitar outline of the inside of the fiddle, and throws the corners into that bold relief which is such a beauty in a well-finished fiddle. When you have gone all round, go all over the ground, bringing the outside and inside edges of the
the hollow quite
filled
with
lir.e
all
round.
and the sandwich or three strips replaced, being most careful to make them fit accurately at the corners, and particularly at the joints at the top and bottom cf the back, where the three strips must join those oppo"
site so exactly, as to
the smallest toothed plane (Fig. 9) with the finest and sharpest toothed iron, and plane all
Then take
This
join,
is
best effected
just
slanting
by cutting off the ends at the downwards from the top edge,
the inner bouts were fitted
just as
the
linings of
shown
in
Fig. 28.
Mind
and
fix
use
plenty of
;
the strips
for,
remember,
it
component
also
fills
up
in the cutting of
(especially for an
therefore,
it is
when the
purflings
well to run a
little
glue
all
round them with a little slip of wood to fill up anywhere where there was not sufficient. The purflings are tapped into the groove all round
with a
it.
little
hammer
to insure their
is
is
The
superfluous glue
cloth,
to dry thoroughly.
round the inside of the groove, so as to melt this trough into the rise of the belly or back (it is, of course, understood that these operations must be repeated on both tables) and bring the edge once more to the curve represented at B, Fig. 33. Now take a sharp scraper and scrape all round where there are any plane or gouge marks, and, indeed, more or less all over the tables, so as to bring it as smooth and clean as it was after the principal scraping set down some time back. Let them be wetted and rescraped two or three times They must to get them beautifully smooth and soft. then be sand-papered three times, beginning with a medium roughness and ending with the finest. Rub the sand-paper up and down the tables the way of the grain, and just round inside the groove you have sunk round the edge. Be careful not to rub on the edge thus left or you will rub it down, especially at the corners, which must be carefully worked into with a corner of sand-paper, so as not to encroach upon the edge at all; but at the same time to clear away the roughness and gouge marks which are almost inRub all round and up to the evitable at these points.
edges of
When
flat
the//
it
is
gouge.
The
defects
(if
any) will
now be brought
However,
be remedied.
we console ourselves
that
if
and the cutting out Between each rubbing wet the surfaces all over with a sponge, and rub them dry directly with a
of the belly
preserved.
UP.
SS
to one another. about \ inch above
cloth.
go also
you give it the first or coarsest rubbing, round the sides, which will be by this time pretty considerably dirty. You need, however, only give the ribs one rubbing now, and that with the For all these operations coarsest of the three papers. it is best to hold the fiddle on a clean towel spread
all
When
which
last
Round
off the
is
The
slip
next operation
is
rest,'"'
or
must then be scraped quite smooth. Now take a set of files and go right round the edge of both back and belly, making them quite round by filing both corners off the edge, till the line from the under to the upper
sides of the edge
this is done,
and which
(Vol.
I.,
is
represented
in
position at E, Fig. 52
Fig. 10)
Take the spring compasses (b, and opening them inch, mark two points
p.
395).
When is a perfectly even curve. go round the edges thus rounded and smooth off all file marks with sand-paper of a medium fineness, give the ribs a final thorough sand-papering
and the body of your fiddle is finished " in the white, and can be put away out of dust, etc., until the neck
1'
on the lower edge of the fiddle, 1 5 inches apart i.e., each being measured exactly inch from the centre of the lower bouts. Take as the centre point from which to measure the joint (purfied or otherwise) of the two lower bouts, not the centre join of the belly (if this latter does not coincide with the former, i.e., it is more important that it should be true
;
and
scroll are
ready to go on.
f
To
be continued?)
IT UP.
STANFORD.
to the tail-pin
and centre
with a sharp thin knife two points make two clean cuts (a, a', Fig. 46)
to the top of the ribs, but not deeper, so
Now
have a grindstone,
right
down
The
cuts
they are expensive articles to buy complete, I intend to give a few hints, which I hope may enable every
amateur
to set
I I
The
Now
most
effective
plan,
with a straight
purfiing.
which
will
exact measurements
sketches
ficient
;
Draw
lines
it
is
as deep
would be to give the used, with a few explanatory only be rough ones, just sufthink,
;
by these
and then the wood comprised and picked out with a knife, leaving a little right-angled chamber formed by the thickness of the belly and the tops of the lower bouts and bottom block, to receive the rest, which may now be cut. If by misadventure in making the cuts, A, a', the edges get a little split, it must be cut away, and a
to give
may be
cut
and they will not be drawn to scale. There are several different kinds of stones in general use, and everybody will probably recommend a different one. The common "grey" stone, which the "red" stone, which is very soft; is very hard
;
the "
Nova
Scotia," a stone
;
much used
for grinding
corresponding
to
slip cut
down on
make
true to the
remark that
and the tail-pin. I need not the cutting must be quite square and
of ebony, i inch long by | inch
hay knives, etc. and the " Belston," a stone strongly recommended for grinding edged tools and that is the one I bought. Messrs. Booth Brothers, Dublin, supplied me with one 18 in. in diameter and i\ in. thick, for 4s. 6d., and I have used it a great deal, and
could not desire a better one.
Now
take a
little slip
broad, and % inch deep. Make two sides quite square and true to one another, and adjust the length with
plane,
file,
Having bought a
for
5s.,
is
an
and
knife, so that
it
just
fits
supplied
me
chamber
it it
cutting
edge of the fiddle this will do when round the upper surface, as at D, Fig. 46, and shape off the ends roughly, as at C, Fig. 46. Put plenty of good glue into the chamber, set the roughly finished rest in it, tap it fast with a hammer, so as to fix it, and wipe off the superfluous glue with the brush of warm water, and leave the fiddle to dry. When dry finish it off carefully by cutting it even with the lower edge flush with the belly at the bevelled ends,
flush with the
is
mings, composed of a pair of friction rollers, an axle and handle, and a hook. They have kindly furnished
fixed
me
as
14,
15, 16).
I
The
rollers, as
The
axle
working either by hand or treadle power, and the rollers make the sttne run so lightly, that, even with a very heavy pressure on, the treadle I hope everyone who makes is quite able to turn it. this stand will get these. The handle and axle, at any
fitted for
54
rate, are
THE GRINDSTONE
make them
half as
HOW
and
20
it
TO SET IT
will
UP.
to
able to
good as
these.
The
rollers
in.
by
7 in. inside
measure
In case anyone and make the axle, which is 20 inches long from end to end, the engraving will explain it
are a luxury, but a very useful one.
prefers to try
sufficiently.
legs.
Take the four pieces, 3 ft. 4 in. by 2 in., for the They will have to be mortised into the frame
slant, to give the
on a
legs a splay
I.
If
Now
pitch pine, as
angles, set your bevel to an angle of 85 if not, take the frame to pieces, and take A, and lay it on the
You want
ft.
it
;
till
you get
by 3 1 piece, 4 ft. 4^ in. by I 2 ft. 4 in. by 2 1 1 3 ft. 2 in. by 1 4 pieces, 3 ft. 3 in. by 2 Plane up all the true and above
2 pieces, 3
about the slant shown in the figure hold it with one hand, and with the other draw a pencil line on the
to
3s
leg,
underneath
A,
Take
and 3
square a line
Set your bevel to this angle. from one end on the bottom across. Inside that, mark the breadth of the leg, and
A.
in.
square.
Take the
3
ft.
two
4
in.
pieces,
these
lines
by
in.,
and
mark one
4-in. sides,
of the
by
upwards,
and
piece 2
2 in.
pieces, io|
long,
and
in.
bottom
outside.
from
the
Keep the
to ij
in.
and
short
B,
and
the
from the fence, and D. Take A, and mark this on the measure 4 in. from top from the outeach extreme end, Now cutout side. and square a line the mortise, workacross. Inside each ing carefully from FIG. -THE GRIN DSTONE, COMPLETE. of these lines mark both s des> an(J you the breadth of c or D, and square lines across. Take one of will have the required slant each way. Square each of these lines on the inside of A. Put B the legs, and mark one of its 3-in. sides " Outside," against a, keeping the ends together and the tops and one of its 2-in. sides " Front." With the bevel, uppermost, and square the four lines on the top of B mark from the front, on the outside, a line, and square take A away, and square them on the inside of B. Set your marking gauge it on to the two 2-in. sides. Set your marking gauge to ii in., and on the top 1 in., and from the outside mark it along from the of A and B, between the square lines, mark your gauge two narrow sides, to meet the square lines. Sawing line from the inside. Set the gauge to the thickness from the outside, cut out the tenon, as shown in Fig. 3. of c or D, and gauging from the top, mark it on the (N.B. Before you cut, be sure your tenon is long inside of A and B, between the line at each end. enough for the mortise.) In a similar manner mortise Measure ii in. exactly from each end of c and D, the three other legs into their places. Remember
;
ones C and
and square lines across at the top, and square them on all four sides. Now dovetail the four pieces together. Keep to your lines, and make the pieces
fit
the
same
fit
slant.
only
the legs
For instance, Fig. 3, as shown, would marked P, P, in Fig. 1. You will see,
to
do
it,
by trying the
legs against
THE GRINDSTONE:
the frame.
HOW TO
them from
in a nail at
SET IT
them
springing.
UP.
in
55
their places,
Put
upside down.
same
length,
in all the legs, and turn the frame With a lath, mark your legs all the and with the bevel, mark them, so as to
Fit
them
in tightly,
make them stand evenly on the ground, taking care not to mark them the wrong way. Take them out and
each end. Now the stand is finished. screw the friction rollers exactly in the centre of the stand; if they are not exactly parallel, the stone
Now
Fig.
FIG. 2.
8.
;
Fig. 7.
OF CUTTING TENON IN LEG (A, front E, Outside). FIG. 4. LINES SQUARED ON PLATE OF IRON WITH SPUD. FIG. 6. PLATE OF IRON TO FIT SPUD. FIG. 7. PLATE OF IRON FACE OF STONE. FIG. WITH EYE. FIGS. 8, 9. CONNECTING ROD FOR TREADLE, FIG. IO. ROD WITH SCREW THREAD AT END. FIG. II. GUARD OF IRON. FIG. 12. REST. FIG. 13. TREADLE. FIG. 14. AXLE. FIG. 15. FRICTION ROLLERS. FIG. 16. HOOK.
PLAN
OF STAND.
FIG.
3.
MODE
and drive a
Put the dovetails together with white lead, 3-in. screw into each of them, from underneath. Put in the legs also with white lead,
cut them.
will
never run
in
true.
On
shown
and wedge them up. Take the piece, 3 ft. 2 in. by 1 in., cut in two, and halve it in from the back at each end, 14 in. from the ground. The design explains
in.
it
sufficiently.
The
in.
legs
and 14
at the bottom.
ought to be ufThis
This can be done by finding the Square these lines on to the face of the stone. Put the axle into the stone, and fill it up to the centre of the stone with flat pieces or red deal. Put axle and stone on to the rollers. Have some red deal thin wedges made. And now your
Fig. 4.
56 work begins.
screw Fig.
the axle.
5.
Underneath the
6.
treadle, at the
narrow
it
Hang
and
The
two ways, so
requires time
from the ground bring the rod and eye forward till it meets the treadle, mark it, and screw it on. The lengJi of the rod, of course, is an essential
about
1
in.
you have
it
point,
Get an old plane iron or a well-tempered piece of steel, and resting il on the stand, hold it close to the face of the stone. Keep the stone dry, and set it going. Work more on the edges than the centre, so
as not to hollow out the stone.
Do
not
mind wasting
you have the your stone will
to for
it till
Now
do
for ordinary
work
but
Do
some people do, a plan for and lowering the trough, the side (and it will always be the same side) which lies in the water will soften and pick off. A can overhead is the best plan. Messrs. Booth Brothers supply very nice cans at 2S. 6d., and cheaper ones at is. I bought a is. one but a meat tin, with a fine hole drilled in the bottom,
;
will do.
Get a blacksmith
in
to
make
a set of
or,
if
fittings,
like
those shown
the drawing,
you can,
3s.
make them
Fig. 5
is
yourself.
They
will cost
about
1
depend on the height of the top of the My stand is 34 in. high, and my rod measures 30 in. from the inside of the hook to the inside of the eye, but it must be determined by bending a piece of wire to the necessary length. Screw on the guards over the rollers. The hook supplied with the rollers may, if desired, be hung over the axle, on the handle side, and screwed to the wood, and the guards dispensed with, but the guards are preferable. Screw the support for the can into the stand, on the handle side, between the rollers and the stone. Screw on the rest, so that the short arm just shaves the stone. A water guard made out of back-board may, if wished for, be tacked on under the rest at one end, and one to match it at the other, but they are not essential unless you have a trough. Your work is now done, and if you keep the frictional parts well oiled, and always empty the can when you have done working, and not let it drip on the stone, you will have a stone that will last your lifetime, and a stand that will last at least a second genewill
and
a plate of \ in. iron, 7 in. by \ in., with four screw holes in it, and with a spud 3 in. long riveted in the centre, at the end of which a small pin-
ration, at a cost of
about
15s.
Fig. 6
is
by
[} in
GEORGE EDWIVSON.
JOINTS,
I
to
an eye,
Fig. 7
to
is
fit
in.,
with
it,
riveted
V. ERAZ1NG HEAVY
N
for the treadle,
iron,
have
shown how
light joints
to
made
to
out of
at
a hook round
figure,
be attached) at
iron,
about 36 in. long, bent to to an eye (to which Fig. 7 has the other. Fig. 10 is a rod of \ in.
in.
about 34
long, bent as
shown
by
I
in the
we use
soft
by means of the heat from a and a (lame urged by a Whilst blast from the rrouth blow-pipe. solder, any joint, however long, may be
soldering-iron,
made
in.,
Fig. 11
a guard of
\ in.
iron, 17 in.
with
figure,
which
to the stand.
ing iron may be used as a source of heat. We may also hard braze or hard solder any small articles by heating up the work with the mouth blow-pipe but
;
make
it
all right.
You
\ in.
Fig. 12 is a rest,
'"-j
made
out of
when large articles and heavy joints in brass, copper, aid iron have to be hard soldered, it will be found impossible to heat them up with the mouth blow-pipe. We must, therefore, seek another method by which
the
iron, 15 in.
b/ if
bent as shown, at 9
1
in.
from one
in,
Now
by
I
to
connect them a
it
!.
Take
in Fig. 13, half of it the and cut About full width, and the other half i\ in. wide. in. from the bottom of one of the right side legs,
in.,
as
shown
work can be heated. In recommending the various sources of heat at the command of my readers, I shall suppose them able to choose that which may be deemed suitable to
their several requirements,
and
to
5i>1
themselves
for
the edges of the metal cut into teeth, like a saw, the
teeth being
in the
some
of
having been carefully nursed to use convenient tools and appliances, find themselves lost when separated from their usual tools, and are unable to
edges
made to fit into each other or the gaps may take the form of dovetailing, and
;
shown
is
in Figs.
work without them. The amateur smith and metalworker, for instance, will turn out a strong if clumsy
job with metal heated up in a kitchen fire, urged to the proper heat with the domestic bellows. With a
The next
that of
its
I need scarcely mention that both parts of the joint must be made perfectly bright and clean, free from rust, and grease,
bunch of old rag in lieu of tongs, a piece of a ploughbeam, an old cog-wheel, a lump of cast iron, or, perhaps, only a hard stone for an anvil, he will fashion his hot iron to his will, punch holes when he cannot drill them, and grind down all roughnesses with a
grindstone.
and
dirt.
We must
also see to
it
Readers of the
article
be on " Velo-
Persons with such a natural aptitude for metalworking may attempt hard soldering and brazing as a
means
usual
for uniting joints, when welding them by the means might be deemed impracticable. To such it will be a pleasure to know that a kitchen fire,
to the
their Construction and Use," will remember Mr. Stephenson has been very particular in urging a close fit for a joint that has to be brazed. The same care should be bestowed on all joints, whether for use on a velocipede or not, bearing in mind at all times that in metal-work, as in wood- work,
cipedes
that
makes
fills
who
up
urged
common
and
domestic
heavy
joints,
wood fire, such as that from be found to be the best fuel, excepting that of charcoal itself. This being clearly understood, they will only have to select a fireplace suitable to the
sound oak,
will
Having got the parts fitted closely together and bright, we must next make a thin paste of borax and water, and thinly coat all the parts with the mixture, applying it with a feather. Again put them together, and bind all firmly with iron binding wire, but leave the seams of the joint uncovered. The
made
object of this
is
to
keep
all
made
;
hot,
and
to
keep
of a proper shape
them
little
in their
proper position
for
if
they
shift
only a
for brazing. In
will
most instances, the butt joint (Fig. 28) be found unsuitable where strength is required.
at the critical
moment when
run,
we
The
truth.
As
a scarfed shape,
may be
easily brazed,
and
is
will
form a
Where
the scarf
broad and
in heating,
long, or when we have a long seam to braze, as in the two edges of an iron plate, it may be prudent to drill a hole or two through the parts, and to insert a few
rivets, for
of the supporting bed of fuel as it burns away, we must firmly secure the parts not only from transverse shifting, but also from longitudinal slipping, and may,
therefore, find
it
seam
well together
much
but rivet-holes should be avoided as as possible, because they take out material and
joint.
here that a
Iron
weaken the
And when
it
is
found necessary to
two becomes
used
it
useful, and,
drill holes, they should be as small as possible. The grooved and longued joint (Fig. 30) will be found the
little
wire
is
in preference to that of
neatest and strongest of all, and, in most cases, may be made without the addition of a rivet, if clamps and other means are adopted to keep the tongue well into
because
is
infusible at
work
may
The
class,
(Fig. 31)
and the
slotted joint,
Although every precaution has been taken to ensure its proper position all through the operation, it will be well to add the further precaution of having a firm bed of fuel as a
the joint remaining firm in
joint
when we have enough material to back up the cuts, and thus make a sound joint. When cylinders of thin metal have to be strongly brazed, and objections are raised to a lapjoint, we may have recourse to the serrated joint, or
the last two being only admissible
should, therefore, rest the support for the joint. on a glowing oak or other hardwood log, and
We
pile the
it
fire,
we must apply
first
the
This
of the
three hard
58
solders mentioned in
Hand Hand
5,
$ gas
and i
in.
of
common
may
be attempted,
if
3.
and \ in. long, arrange these along the seam, and stick them there with a bit of the borax paste. When all
have been arranged, put the joint carefully into the prepared fire, and get a friend to help, by blowing the bellows, whilst you arrange the coals around the joint
with a pair of tongs.
Direct the blast of the bellows
The numbers
reference.
are
my
own, inserted
to
facilitate
No. 1 blow-pipe is made with a portable nozzle, arranged to unscrew for the interchange of jets. These can be had in four sizes, at 4d. each extra. This tool
may be used
work up
is
on the log just below the joint, and thus make the flame spout up and around the article. Heat up gently on both sides of the seam until the iron is red
near the seam to make it and stand by during the operation, with a pointed iron rod, to rearrange any bits of brass spelter that may be displaced by the swelling borax. A bluish flame will announce the fusion of the spelter it will then tremble, and sink into the seam, when the blowing may be stopped, and the article allowed to cool slowly down. I need scarcely warn the amateur
hot, then urge the blast
Both of these
used for large and heavy joints with a No. 5 blower. tools are fitted with flexible rubber tub-
ing of clear bore, free from wire, and the two tubes are held in one
hand
(see Fig. 39), the air-tube restlittle finger, the next finger
itself
held be-
tween the first finger and thumb. When held thus, the air and gas supply can be controlled to a nicety,
at will
but
it
will
be
fire
at once,
nor
to
have taps
fitted to
in
water, for
is
it
is
well
known
that suddenly
this
shown
at
No.
3.
cooled iron
hard
and
brittle,
and
applies
In Mr. Fletcher's pamphlet on "The Use of the Blow-pipe," he gives the following instructions for the
guidance of those who may wish to make their own blow-pipes: "In the construction of blow-pipes for
will
now
turn
my
wood
maximum effect for the minimum of fuel and blast. To do this, the air-pressure available must be an important factor.
still
sufficiently
of attempting a
It
brazing at home.
that a blast of
near to
make
must be understood
some kind
;
is
and, for
blast
from a mouth
bellows
it is
blow-pipe
is insufficient.
The domestic
may
of a
such as gas or
for
oil
flames.
Specially constructed
of the
air
made
Of course, the air, and so on in proportion. and gas supplies can be adjusted by taps easily,
first
and sold
but in the
Amongst the best and cheapest may be mentioned those made by Mr. Fletcher, of Warrington, and sold by him and his agents in England and the Colonies. The sizes and prices of these blowers are
blast to feed the mechanical blow-pipe.
:
work
from
this rule
it
must be adhered to. Any departure reduces the power of the blow-pipe, and ignofailures,
w^ No.
3. 5.
c , over Size
...
1.
Pressure
in luchee
all.
Pressure
in ounces
.
?t,
. ,
13 by 10 by 6^ deep. ..30
in. ..20
on
22s.
I5byiaby7
,,
...30
20
,,
225.6d.,30s.
The higher
mounted on
blowers.
number are
iron
Hand
jets,
3,
interchangeable
which the makers of blow-pipes have been unable to It is often an advantage to build up a blowexplain. pipe quickly for some special work, and the method and rules for construction are here given, bearing in mind always that a high pressure blast gives the most compact and highest temperature flame, without having actually any greater quantity of heat in the flame produced." If the pressure in the gas-pipes is such as to supply 75 cubic feet of gas per hour through a -inch bore gas-pipe, we shall require an air supply of 10 cubic feet per minute to properly burn this gas in a
59
Large clear-way cocks
supply of gas and
air,
may be
but
it
is
Following the rules given, a blow-pipe for rough, heavy work can be easily improvised out of a few
stock gas-fittings.
Figs. 35
usual to grip the rubber-pipes between the fingers, as before mentioned, and thus regulate the supply. able rubber tube costs from 9d. to
is.
Suit-
per foot.
As
in
some
foot-
districts
few
pipe.
blowers
may
and
of
shall
not be readily
We
want
three
3-inch
V
rvi
FIG. 31.
FIG. 32.
obtained,
no
means of
air
lengths
of -
getting a con-
inch gas-pipe,
tinuous
blow -pipe
be had, be well
it
to will
and
DOVETAILED
JOINT.
POINT AND
FOOT
JOINT.
JOINT.
NOTCH
JOINT.
to give
connect
r
D
j
readers a hint
IMPROVISED
BLOWPIPE.
Igjp'
i^lllEflillf I 1
1
apparatus.
The
is
first
hint
the
borrowed
head
of
the
plug, drill
and
FIG.
it,
tap a hole in
37.
AIR
pam-
phlet on
"The
the
i
and
fit
therein
EISxl
FIG.
Use
of
-
ow
p p
e,"
and
37.
is
illus-
Then
into
screw
trated
It
by
Fig.
consists
one end of
this
of
tin (air
a
or
-
square
the T-piece as
box
of
all of,
shown
by
tight,
may be done
gripping
the nose of the
course,
its
at
seams)
1
say,
foot
small pipe in
square
39. DIAGRAM SHOWING HOW TO HOLD A BLOWPIPE.
FIG.
by 18
in
inches
it
height. Divide
into
two
and
this
equal parts by
turning
piece
a sloping partition,
around.
FIG. 38.
and
fit
Next screw in
the
air
-
SKETCH
pipe,
an
outlet pipe,
then the nose-pipe, and see that the small air-jet corner into the position marked on sketch, then put
on elbow and short pipe for gas, and, finally, connect up the tool to air and jas supply by two lengths of
clear-way rubber tube without wire.
C, near the top; below this fit another pipe, A, bent as shown to This should be fixed before the act as an inlet pipe. When the pipes have been partition is soldered in.
fixed, half
let,
fill
The
air-jet
may
c,
and blow
The
air will
bubble
be screwed into a diminishing socket, and this attached to the T-piece, if found more convenient than drilling
some
the division, B, and drive Now open C, then the of the water into D.
fill
5
weight of water
constant stream
;
of B in a
line,
Apparatus
and
this will
be kept up as long as
through
A.
may be had
we blow
air in
by the
Another hint given in the same pamphlet, but worked out by myself, is illustrated by the sketch, Fig. 38, which shows two pairs of house-bellows mounted in a wooden frame, and arranged for one to act as the blower, and the other as the continuouspressure reservoir.
The upper (and also the lower) pair of bellows must be of good quality, and perfectly air-tight when the
nozzle
is
from Mr. Fletcher, of Warrington, or his agents, at prices ranging from 1 ys. 6d. to 2. A sketch of this apparatus, together with a blower, was given on Fuel from this apparatus, or gaseous p. 185, Vol. I. fuel from coal-gas, may be used together with coke in a smith's forge by a little attention on the part of the workman. The ordinary foot-blower and rough blowpipe is used, and the jet of flame injected through the tuybre when the nozzle of the ordinary bellows has been removed. Small adapted to the purpose.
portable
forges
are easily
stopped by the
finger.
remove the valve or clapper, plug the hole air-tight, and fit in the plug a short piece of gas-pipe. Place this pair in the position shown in sketch, and either put a heavy weight on the top or connect the top
the frame above.
the flame through the tuyere from the back into the
coke, this will light up the coke, then turn out the gas
handle with a spring having a downward pressure from The nozzle of the lower pair of
and use the air-blast for a minute, again turn on enough gas to just brighten the fire, and thus raise
the heat.
bellows must
hz removed, and
;
its
place
supplied
Of
course,
it
is
well
must be connected by an elbow with the short length of pipe depending from the upper pair of bellows. This lower pair of bellows must be fitted with a spring having a contrary
this
may
be used
in the
ordinary
brazing,
and
also to finish
any
we must remember
must
that
is
be turned
pipe.
coal,
must be so
piece of
fixed
Be
and
careful to
have a clean
fire
of coke or of
down.
of 2
A
1
flat
wide, by
inches,
and
at the other
The spelter or solder, the flux, and the method of preparing and manipulating the joint is the same for this fuel as for others in fact, the piinciples
burning
;
depending from the top handle of the bellows. The short angle must have three holes drilled in it, and by these screwed on to the upper pari of the bellows
handle.
my next I hope to treat of welding, or soldering metals under heat by themselves alone, without the aid
In
of another metal.
(
The lower
pair of
To
be continued!)
pump
upper pair
whilst the
rubber tube
is
stopped,
pressure
being
Coal-gas
an excellent
its
blow-pipe when
but
it is
numerous
Indeed,
it
alloys,
not
suit-
operations of
is
melting and
ail
NOTICED
said
that although
to
steel.
not at
from time
for
time
Amateur
its
use seems to
in
make
fuel for
Work
wood
cess
brittle.
But
itself,
now correspondents
gas flame
is
not be had
for
below the metal. Where coal-gas canstill have recourse to gaseous fuel the blow-pipe, obtained from the vapour of gaso-
I have therecommitted to paper the following notes on the methods which I myself have used for some time for finishing articles of furniture, etc in this manner, with
,
we may
may
prove as
me*
51'
Sand-paper
the
wood
per-
smooth, then with the finger rub in the following filling Melt a little of the best engine tallow, and mix with it plaster of Paris and burnt umber (let
first),
make
pretty
stiff; if
fair quantity is
made
it
it
goes quite
hard when
it
cold, but
on the edges of the shelf were done, you answered by a reed plane, which costs, etc. Now I have an interest in seeing your paper supplying amateurs with the how to do, and that as therefore send you a rough cheaply as possible. I sketch of a handy thing to do the same thing, which the amateur can make himself, as three or four shillings are perhaps an obstacle with some amateurs
trying their hands at cabinet-making.
tool can
thoroughly
which
Besides, this
and
soft paper,
;
it is
then ready
raw linseed oil this requires about forty-eight hours to set, and as the amateur has generally a few things going on at the same time, this will be no inconvenience, and it is none the worse for remaining a day or two longer. French Polishing. Procure two bottles, thoroughly dry (this is essential), and go to an oil merchant, or, better still, a vendor of varnishes only, if you happen to have one in your town, and get four penny worth of white polish, and four penny worth of French polish, both the best. You then require cotton wool and fine muslin the latter is generally plentiful in most house-
go into and round shaped work as well as on the straight, which is an advantage over the plane. Besides, the amateur can make a number of cutters to The tool requires some any pattern of moulding.
practice to work,
there
if
is
no machine
at
as not
But to explain the sketch in Fig. 17. Cut a piece of beech or birch, 7 inches long by 2 inches broad by I inch thick. Cut it to shape, then
hand.
a
cut
screws.
holes for
thin steel,
shape
it
to the desired
shape of moulding
;
holds, as
it
in the least if
it
has been
it
must be
it
Then,
with a ball of soft paper for a
;
it
scrapes the
is
shavings
off either
way
the
;
same
as a plane,
few seconds, this prepares a beautiful surface after which get a piece of cotton wool and form to the shape and size of a marble, soak with the white polish,
guide
it
alcng.
and put
FRETWORK.
in
your wood, taking care that you get a good coating all over; if your pad gets dry before you have gone all over, apply more white polish to the cotton wool ; then
get another piece of cotton wool,
[From BOSELEA.J
I
HAVE no doubt
that
many amateurs
fretwork
somewhat
polish, giving
three or four
at least as orna-
mental and
useful.
For such
you
soon find a splendid polish appear. Caution. Always let one coat of polish dry before you apply another ; for this reason it is better to polish
will
anything but
artistic,
only adorning being the thin moulding run round In mansions of any pretension, various methods
two or three
coat.
oil to
articles at once, as
first is
becomes sticky apply a little raw linseed the pad with the finger, not too much.
remove the wool
to a fresh place, or
you
will
Do not put a heavy hand on, but rub as you possibly^can. If these dhections are implicitly followed, ycu will attain a beautiful polish
lightly as
Lastly.
hard uniformity of the a door but most of This these are beyond the ordinary amateur's work. attempt of mine is, I may say, quite within any amateur's reach, even with the ordinary fret-saw frame, or bow saw. With this instrument I have cut six and similar to the accompanying design in Fig. 18 placed them above the doorways in my lobby, much to its improvement.
are
adopted
to
break the
straight-lined rectangle
we
call
with very
little
labour.
They
common
my
m w. smitb.~\
grained of the same shade and style. The wood is all in one piece, with the exception of the "finial" at
top of centre, but this
is
observed on page
in
V.'ORK,
The round
holes,
5"
should be
all
a carved coat-of-arms.
my own
case
have used
medallions of the poets white on a pale blue ground. Round this centre opening I ran a raised moulding, to
give
it
more
of a picture-frame appearance.
This
moulding runs into a slight ornament at top, and at bottom is an ornamental shield, which comes over door frame for an inch or so, and serves to keep the whole piece from being pushed too far back. It is all fastened to the door frame by screws, two or four being quite sufficient. About half-an-inch is left at bottom of fretwork for the purpose ;.,/./.''
-
which answers admirably, and I trust will be found of Get several pieces of wood to others and to fit easily, but closely, in the match the shelves, space between the shelf which you intend to use for magazines, etc., and the one next above (these pieces and be of wood must fit close to back of book-shelves, they are to form movable flush with the front edges partitions to separate each kind of magazine). Fix on both ends of the front edge of each piece of wood, a
service to
:
same piece of sheet-brass, allowing it to project the shelves of the thickness the as end, distance at each the projecting piece of brass is to be of book-case
;
drilled with
of
|
of fastening.
in
drawings.
a hole, and the edge of the shelves book-case drilled with a row of The partitions can thus be holes. shifted any where along the
shelf,
as
shown
in
Fig.
19, to
form movable
size as
my monogram
on each side
a
pigeon-holes to
...
want-
FIG.
18.
OVERDCOR
IN
FRETWORK, BV ROSELEA.
ed,
it
in
brass,
into
much improve
medallion.
FRANCIS SPENCER.]
floor look untidy,
is
A
and
so here
will
a cheap
contrivance which
to
who has
slips of
have found
it
a great trouble
tidy,
keep loose
hammer handy.
A few
periodicals
same time, easily available for reference; they will not stand on end like bound books, and to lay them down in separate piles, when you have, as I do, about a dozen weekly, and as many monthly, takes up too much room. To get
and
at the
and magazines
supply
the
of materials
it
need
over this
difficulty,
much time. I got my idea on seeing a sawedged brass and wood arrangement on sale at a shoe-
5i3
9 9 e C
*.
9
/
B
$
B
A, A, Shelves of Bookcase. B, B, Loose partitions of same width as shelves. C, C, Pieces of sheet brass screwed
to partitions,
and
drilled
4
c
FIG. 23.
BRACING
H
'
IKON.
H Bt
fJ5B
KING.
{J 6
OF LOWER
FIG. 26.
ELEVATION
FIG. 21.
TENTER
HOOK.
FIG. 25.
PLAN
RING.
OF
LOWER
FIG.
17. SUBSTIPLANE.
iiHiiiiiiMiiiiiniiiiiuiiniHawiiiniiiinjiiii mrnpn
=
1
!'H.
"
11111
iiMiiinii
11
I
I
llillllllMMii
ill
|.lll.l.lll..liliJllil i..l.llilllllllIllll
1
DPI
-di
FIC.
22.
SMALL
WINDMILL.
FIC. 20.
BOOT
SH
shop
price much
my
pocket.
I
set to
So buying work
sockets to
22), are
fix it to
the poles.
(s, S,
Fig.
made
and painted
made my frame (Fig. 20), holding three many pairs of boots and shoes as that in the shop, the price of which was 13s. The illustration requires little explanation, being drawn to scale. One
next day and
limes as
common paint. I found this a very pump it pumped the water out of
;
my
house, about
my
my
choose
The two
kind of wood, for driving the hooks so near each other, in a row, is apt to split some timber. Birch or spruce
are likely to give way.
wide and J
in.
ponding holes
in
portrait
still
exists in our
in fact,
when a
moors.
his
the
Pretender
across
the
each could argued that these would giving each shoe a day's rest in turn. One of his reasons that shoes should rest, and dry slowly, is in accord with this boot-rack. On it the shoes can be thoroughly dried, being so completely exposed to the air. The boot-rack does not need to be fastened to the wall, but may lean against it from
straight, so that
MATERIAL
IN CASES,
He
E must now
lotting to
;
and everything
in its
Assuming
that
the floor.
and now
lies
before you, in
made
roughly sort the articles in the order in which they Thus, on the imposing table lay out will be required.
are
I
With
may
commonly used
say that
I
many made a
the unopened packets or founts of type in their paper and string coverings, with a drawer or box arrange
the
my own
I
use,
Then
setting
up
will
I
now
I
try to give as
as
can.
had a well
your composing frame in a position where light will best fall upon it, select a case, or pair of cases, suitable for the reception of the
first
dug
in a field,
near
my
house.
Here the
for
it
first
meets
pump on
them
in
the top
pump was
1.
young compositor,
is
now
absolutely ne-
pyramid fashion, about six feet apart at bottom, and two feet at the top. I got a blacksmith to make me some thirty small round iron rods, flattened at each end, with two screw holes, and these I screwed on from the bottom, at about one foot apart, to form steps to go up to the top when necessary to turn the head of the mill round, and also to keep it all firm together. The iron rods, A D', E c, etc., in Fig. 22, are put on all round, so as to get to the top of the mill, no matter which way it faces. At w is an iron, as in Fig. 23, which braces all poles together. From M to N rods go from top to bottom, to form steps to top, to turn head round and oil shaft. In Fig. 24, which is a plan of the top, are holes all round this is to enable the four sweeps to face in any direction of the wind. One bolt is enough to go through one pair of holes. You can go up the iron stays to shift the head. In Fig. 25 is the plan, and in Fig. 26 the elevation of the under iron ring, showing the three
the ground,
which each letter and sign is invariably deposited and found. Presuming the cases upon the frame consist of an " upper and lower," as illustrated in Figs. 4 and 5, page 338, the lower is set on the frame, as shown in Fig. 1, page 56, and the upper above it in like manner Our attention must now be concentrated as depicted. on the arrangement of letters, or, technically speaking, the " lay of the case." Take our word for it, and conclude that the arrangement shown in Figs. 18 and 19, are the best that could be devised they have stood the test of many years, and are practically the same as "Johnson," in his " Typoin the days of Caxton. graphia," published in 1824, shows a slight deviation, as also an arrangement introduced by " Lord Stanhope " but although Johnson claims his "lay" had been widely adopted in London and other places, experience has proven it to be in no way better, and the
in
; ;
"box"
writer
is
5*5
at
any
rate, the
is
the usual
is
all
steadily
may mark
hand
to the
forming the words and sentences of work under composition. This will not be achieved the first day he tries, but our readers must not conclude from this that the habit is difficult to gain, neither is it one which requires any great mental effort on the contrary, it is so excessively simple, that after a few hours' practice, one's hand instinctively goes to the right box without any mental effort whatever. A day's close application to the work and then throwing
;
The cases being in place, the learner is in a position to commence laying his case. We must now give practical directions for unpacking the type, and getting the letters into the boxes.
So long as our packets of letters are safely tied round more care need be taken with them than with an ordinary parcel, but the moment paper and string is removed, the hitherto strong and compact square mass of metal resolves itself into an assemblage of tiny pieces of metal, which by the
with string and paper, no
slightest
it
down for a week or fortnight together, will certainly make it always more or less difficult, but only half-anhour's practice each day,
awkward handling
disposition,
is
will
not of a brave
and
in an incredibly short
and patient
letters
will
be as easy as reading or
The
most
till
use here
simple movements
is
constantly repeated
perfection
gained.
if
We
will
allow you a
little
aid
to begin with
you please;
set
and
Comparing the spaces on the diagrams with those in the cases, you
will
This mixture of letters, sorted out again. whether by accident or design, is technically termed "pie," and special provisions have to be made in the case of newspapers and similar concerns, against the awkward results of pieing a forme just as it was going A London cabby was one day hailed by a to press. friend of the writer's, who was deputed to carry a forme of types (upon which much depended) to a printing-office some distance away. The forme was
heavy, and cabby was cross in having to lend a hand
to
each
letter
by
its
size
it
and
The
capitals in the
upper case,
left to
will
Ill-humour vented itself against the it in. who, urged by the whip of the irate cabby, jerked the cab along over the rough stones in a way which demanded exertion on the part of my friend to
to get
horse,
The
due
the arrangements of points and special marks are varied to suit the character of the work in hana. The lower case at first sight appears to be subject to no order whatever, but on closer examination it will be found that those letters which are most
frequently
required,
not
only have
larger
spaces
that the
hand has
and corners
of the case very seldom indeed. Look a moment at the word " t h e," as it lies in the boxes of the case.
The hand
starts at the
then one box above that, and down under the ''h" for a space then "t h i,'' cornerwise across
to the right,
;
each box
"
s,"
and,
i,''
down again
all
to the oft-used
soon find
quite closely
all
keep the forme of type in a tolerably steady position turning a corner sharply the wheel caught the kerb, and with a heavy jerk the cab stopped dead, the bottom of the cab, my friend, and the forme all " pied " together in the street. Cabby's pent-up wrath burst forth with " There that's just what I expected would happen to you and your durned old nails you may just go and pick 'em up again." Little thought had Pick 'em up again, indeed cabby how many men and how many hours had been expended in putting together that same frame full of f nails," and the only thing to be done was to send for the " copy," call in comps from every office near, to work away at setting it up from case over again. To avoid such a catastrophe, be it small or great, so cut the string or carefully shall be our next care untie it, and unfold the paper steadily, leaving the type's face, or letters, upwards, on the fiat surface of a
;
! ; ! ;
about
A galley
;
number
in
any reader
on the table, and the type and paper on which it lays pushed on to it or, what is the same thing, the galley may be pushed under the type, hold-
now be
laid
5x6
ing the type steady with one hand, and putting the
The type must now be steadily held in the galley with the left hand and the The paper drawn from under it with the other. fount of type will now be unpacked, and nothing
galley under
holds
it
it will be well for you to up a word or two of each kind of letter comprised in your office. Let it be the same set of words in each case, beginning with the smallest type and running up to the largest. Number each line from
1
thoroughly
satu-
upwards.
Set
A
H
P
B
I
D
1
G
O
B
I
D
L
S
all
the lines in a
soap
and
water,
applied by dabbing
it
K R
Z
3
L
S
JS.
M
T
CE
5
N V
J
H
P
K
R
Z
i
M
T
CE
N
V
J
with a saturated
or
sponge,
the
Q
Y
2
W
U
7
Q
Y
e
6
W
U
6
ii
X
I
X
a a a
M
b
and pull a two for future use. Cut one sheet up into slips, and fix on the front of each case, to
galley,
proof or
allowing the
a
e
exhibit
the
or
kind
types
moisture to trickle
of type
8
down upon
o
IT
6
6
u
u
contained
therein.
II
when
FIG.
ITS
CONTENTS.
Mount one
others
in the boxes,
in
convenient posiin
and its present use is to cause the adhesion of the types by the capillary attraction of the moisture between the surfaces, and thus to lessen the danger of pieing the
type during the operation of putting
it
Office" will
1.
its
(Breviei)
in the boxes.
2.
and up so that the type inclines toward the wood edges, cut or remove the string.
slide the type into the angle of the galley,
it
Now
setting
3.
and
(Pica)
(Double
Pica) or
The
letters will
be found
in regular
rows of sorts
it is
to Z, figures, etc.
To
usual to
Fig.
first
4 A PLACE FOR
5.
Tliin
employ a piece of brass rule, or a setting rule, as This rule is gently pushed down between the 13. and second row of
letters,
A PLACE
V
s
1
(Double
Pica)
The use
j
of this
the fingers
as
ce
()
[]
will jc at apparent in
ff
once
indi-
&
b
ffi
e
c
cating
the
place
where
fi
any
ticular
CO
"body"
found
;
may
but
it
be
also
upon
rizontal
it,
is
then
1
hair
spaces
W
Thick and Middle
Spaces.
serves to show,
by
comparison
other " faces,"
with
Suppose
the rule
part
of
q a
V
X
11
2-em, 3-ern.and
4- 'in
how
much
space a line
A's,
Qui ITS
'Is.
the
rest
lay
FIG.
19.
THE
CONTENTS.
too
short
for
"A"
it, transfer the rule to the B box and do likewise. Repeat this round of operation till all the letters are safely stowed away in their respective boxes. If you have a full-sized pair of cases, about 50 pounds of type will leave the boxes properly supplied, and as full as can be worked at comfortably.
a given line, will be occupied by the same words Thus, if at the set in another "body" or "face." bottom of a card you required a line of a given length only, the word could not be shortened to suit the space
;
and
still
London was
if
;
the word
if in
while,
PRINTING FOR AMATEURS.
same space Wolverhampton was required, No. 4 would take its place. Both are of the same height or breadth of body, i.e., Double Pica, but one is Variety of "condensed," the other "expanded." appearance is also produced by spacing between the
the
letters,
5i7
into
being held at such an angle that any type dropped it will fall toward the face of the loose slide and
the back of the stick.
The
letter
hand a journey
to the
extreme
as
first line
being
set
without
any spaces between the letters, the second with "thin" spaces between each letter, and en quads between the words
on a
grasped
inside
in the
thumb and
will
head or face
of
be presented
;
the
the
hand
if
"A
place
for
downwards when you pick it up, turn it round by a twirl of the fingers as the hand is coming back to the stick, drop or slide it into the left hand corner of the stick, with the nicks looking upward
toward the ball of the left hand, or the open side of the instrument immediately
;
and with a gentle pressure keep it in longest line we wish to produce in our position a space next follows, and is printed " List." In this case, we know dropped next to it, the thumb raising that we are intending to set a line of itself just enough to allow it to pass and each type in the office for comparison, then closing on it immediately. As the FIG. 20. METHOD and therefore we take the smallest type line grows in length the fingers and HOLDING STICK. and commence placing the type, letter thumb creep along the stick till it is by letter, in the stick. We shall require a rotation grasped above to the closed or fixed end and here No. for the commencement of each line, and the the line is made to justify by the insertion of thick name of body at the end. When this is set and or thin spaces between some words where it would properly spaced out, the loose slide of the composing be least noticed. As this is being done, run the stick is to be fastened securely, and this will coneye along the composed line, and if a regular row stitute the measure of this "job." Each line is then of nicks appear from end to end of the row of to be set as far as it will go till the last letter placed types, the letters will all be the right side up, and in the stick is vertically under the letter e of the word if the right boxes have been applied to the line will " place" in the first line, then add the name of body be correct this, of course, will not be the case if, and space out in putting the
;
;
and everything in its proper place." We now take up the composing stick, Fig. 10, page 339, and first of all determine the " measure " or width of the
everything,
bring
down
the
letter,
or justify to the
types
in
the
measure.
Before
the
space
in
with wrong
sorts,
or
if
distributing
you
instruc-
tion in holding
the
stick,
and
TRANSFER OF TYPE FROM STICK TO GALLEY.
line.
Don't think
is
manipulating
the types while
in process of
the time
wasted
apparently
which
right
Presuming
it
will
be bestowed
in these
trifling matters,
as
shown
the
first,
make
all
the difference
left hand under the back, and the ball of the thumb pressing the upper edge of the open side. The thumb itself is free to rest on the edge, as shown, or
failure.
Drill yourself to
each
slowly
movement here
lies
described,
practise
it
can descend into the extreme corner, just above the fore-finger. Now stand before your pair of cases in the attitude shown in Fig. 1, page 56, the stick
it
but aim never to miss picking up a letter right side up never fumble and twist it about on the edge of the case, or turn it up to see
at
first,
which
what
letter is
on
its
face
and
if
5*8
it
and
might be
As,
and
in
any
position.
and never
rest satisfied
till
you can
however, the
sensibility,
human muscles
takes
you a week of two hours each day, accomplish it before attempting anything else, and you have broken the neck of your difficulties, and though perhaps there may be more " drilling " before you, you have brought your impatience into subjection to thoroughness, and are on the high road to success as a true
amateur,
pursues
we do not advise a beginner to attempt such a test of his powers, but would ask him to content himself with first of all bringing the pressure to bear on the type as described, then slightly lift the
type vertically about \ of an inch. If any letters are loose through bad justification, they will drop down to the
who
it
we must now This must be of the same length as the width of the stick or measure, and in reality is always put in the stick, even before setting the first line its use is to form a smooth surThis
first
being composed or
13).
set,
and show on the face of the mass lower all back again, and tighten all loose lines by spaces as described. If on your next trial all seems tight, you may lower again and consider the next step. While the type is held
bottom of the
a missing
stick,
;
letter
in this case
and the
down
The
ear or beak projects over the end of the stick, and by this it is removed from behind the last line and placed in front of it, a slight pressure of the
all
would allow some of them to drop straight out of the stickful, the convulsive attempt to stop the rest by a tighter grasp would only precipitate the disaster, and produce a smaller edition of "Cabby and the Nails." So that your aim must be to turn the position of the individual types now standing vertically on the bottom of the stick, to a horizontal one as quickly as
possible.
thumb
along
in
it
will
To do
this
you
lift
proceeded with
stick
is full
and the fresh line may be the way we have described, till the
comes our next " drill," which is called emptying the stick, and consists of practice in the method employed by printers in transferring the
successive stickfuls
of type to
Now
same time bringing the mass away from the back of the stick. As soon as your fingers are clear, steadily and firmly, and without hesitation, turn thumbs up and forefingers down, when
\ of an inch as before, at the
11)
whereon the composed matter is collected in readiness to be locked up into a forme. The operation is extremely simple when you know how, and one much
regrets the impossibility of practical demonstration,
which conveys the exact impression desired, without the chance of failure through the imperfections of a but with the aid of the mere verbal description engraver we hope to make the matter clear. Fig. 21 represents the position of the hands at the moment of releasing the stickful of type immediately before
;
once the types will be laying on their sides, the on the forefingers supporting the weight, the rule under the thumbs steadying them in position. Now you might walk about across the room to the galley without much fear for none would now fall out unless the position was brought nearly vertical but we have assumed the galley is near the stick, indeed just by its side bring now, then, your hands over the tray, and, lowering your forefingers till they touch the bottom, compress all together again steadily,
at
rule
thumbs down gently till feet of type under foreand then turn quickly down the whole mass upon the bottom. Without altering
turn
fingers touch the galley,
transferring
it
to the galley.
The
placed
sides.
and
its
the stick,
tends to
fall
formed by
Now
and
compress
the mass
of letters
back and
front.
The second
hand lie along the entire sides, and can also compress the type in that direction, so that it is evident, if all the lines are equally spaced in the
fingers of each
stick,
toward the angle of the galley, where it may now be left to repose till joined by similar contributions from the stick, which is continually kept employed till the entire copy in hand has been used up. If our readers make themselves perfect in the details I have been describing at length above, they will then be in a position to consider the question of tying-up, locking-up the forme, and correcting and imposing, which important parts of the compositor's work must be left to form the subject of the next
article.
pressure in
all
{To be continued?)
Si9
Although pro-
concluding
my
first
article
on
in
p.
"
The
357,
Domestic
Vol.
I.,
Electric
Light,"
hand dynamo, or such a small dynamo machine as could be worked by a man, there are few persons who would care to work it when it is giving enough current to supply three or four small lamps, and there are few who could afford to erect a gas or
fessedly a
If, however, steam engine to drive the machine. enough of my readers express a wish to have it described and illustrated, I will endeavour to oblige
of batteries appearing during the present season, together with new and cheap lamps adapted to the wants of the At the time of writing amateur experimentalist.
several
this
(July,
new forms
them.
In former articles
I
little
progress in
from voltaic
acid
batteries,
the action taken by electric lighting companies under the new Act of Parliament, which allows them
batteries
invented by Professors
compete with gas companies in catering to supply In towns and cities artificial light. throughout the United Kingdom the light of the future is in a state of uncertain transition, and persons residing in towns are waiting to see what may happen next. Some predict the extinction of gas lamps after the electric light has shone upon them, whilst others believe in the statement that electricity will be vended to users at a cheap rate from wires laid on to their dwellings, or from storage cells delivered at their doors. When that happy time arrives (and interested shareholders say that it is in the near future, perhaps next year), our rooms will be lit with the electric light, our sewing machines and other domestic machinery be driven by motors actuated by the electric current, and batteries for the generation of electricity will be conto
Bunsen. This warning has not deterred some of my readers from using the Bunsen battery, and one in
particular has found
in electric lights
instruction
maintained by a Bunsen battery. I also mentioned some forms of batteries in which bichromate of potash was used instead of nitric acid,
but nearly
all
and
this necessitates
troublesome and expensive to the amateur. At that time I heard of a new battery brought out by Mr. Dale, of 4, Little Britain, London, B.C., and I supposed it to be one identical with a
a form of
cell too
battery of
my own
invention, but
its
Since then, however, Mr. Dale has been kind enough to give me
opportunity of investigating
the opportunity, and
the result before
identity.
I
signed to that
Doubtless there
in laying
my
readers.
and speculations
but
it
is,
it,
It is
well
known
But whilst persons believe it, they are not likely to invest money in lamps and batteries, when, by waiting for a few months longer, they may get something superior brought to their
highly tinted truth.
doors.
It
is
true
that
electric
lighting
companies are
and thus causing a condition of is described by the term "polarization." Now, if we can get this film off as rapidly as it is formed, or if we can get the carbon to
which
it
mushrooms spring up
throw
off,
on a warm September night, but many of those companies will have only a mushroom existence, and those who remain will meet with strong opposition from interested gas companies and from municipal authorities. Eventually, many of us will be able to enjoy the luxuries attending on a powerful electric current ready to hand, but many more will have to content themselves with the old order of things, or generate the
electricity for themselves.
polarized.
we shall secure the cell from being The first object is attained by heating or
agitating the liquid, but Mr. Dale conceived that the second would be best, and could be obtained by exposing a very large surface of carbon to the bichro-
mate of potash solution, and to have that surface broken up into innumerable small points instead of presenting a plane surface to the liquid. This can be secured by packing a quantity of broken carbon
around the carbon plate
cell.
on this subject, in p. 464, Vol. I., held out the hope of being able to describe a new
article
efficient
In
my last
in this
direction,
my
and
article.
strips
half-promise,
to further
postpone
its
A
solution,
and by this means made a most powerful from the evil of rapid polarization. We used the solutions prescribed by Mr. Dale for his chloride battery, a battery made up for the purpose of supplying a current to electric bells doing heavy work.
battery, free
pint of water.
to
it
will leave
an indelible
stain
its
and
is
it
should also be
Chlolb.
known
solution
is.
very poisonous.
Bichromate of potash,
ride of zinc,
is.
We
bolts
experienced some
little
difficulty
used in
this
Mercury, about
per
lb.;
lb.
abandon them
zinc
favour of
The
cell,
cylinders,
made
;
to this
s.
d.
gentleman
cylinders
of
also zinc
adopted
instead
of
Square Porcelain
Stoneware
,,
of zinc rods.
battery,
Our form
,, ,,
1.
,, ,,
therefore,
differs
Round
11
from his only in one or two particulars, which can be readily observed by my
readers.
,,
,, ,,
by 3 in. by ij in., each cell, 6 in. by 4 in. by 2^ in., 6^ in. by 4^ in. by 2% in. 7 in. by 5 in. by 3 in. 6J in. by 5 in. in diameter ,, 6 in. by 5 in. ,,
8 in.
4 6
5 6 S 6
6 6
56
,,
,,
by 5
in. in.
,, ,,
11
10
in.
by 6
The
is
series
from
to
Battery
FIG.
I.
made up
as
fol-
DALES
PATENT lows
nient
An outer stoneware
size
GRANULE BATTERY.
Section of
zinc.
cell showing internal arrangement. C, carbon; Z f
the rein
and are used for firing fuses, testing wires, and working medical coils. The series from K to are left open at the top, and the two latter sizes have an aperture at the bottom to facilitate the drawing-off spent solution when the cells need recharging.
carried,
hand
cell
of
follows
is
as
a cylinder of zinc to go into the porous cell ; and a strip of carbon to go into the outer stoneware
cell
;
size, its
force (E.M.F.)
isonly T 5 ofavoltless.
It is
the whole as
shown
in
sketch.
cell
This
usual
cell
is
free
from noisome
thus
charged
The
in
porous
(which should be
cells
fumes.
When charged
rather larger
this class,
of
and made of the best close-grained white ware) must be placed in the centre of the stoneware cell, and packed in this position with a number of fragments of gas carbon, broken to the size of beans these fragments must also hold a strip of gas carbon, such as the strips used in the Ldclanchd cells, to form a convenient terminal to the negative element. When the space between the sides of the two cells has been thus filled up with broken carbon, there will still be room for a quantity of liquid between the lumps of carbon, and this space is filled with a mixture of a saturated solution of bichromate of potash, 2 parts, and common muriatic acid, 1 part. The charge for the inner or porous cell, in which the zinc cylinder
;
and set up, it will remain ready for action at any time within a week. It will work
intermittingly or constantly, as
quired
in
each
out
for
five
is
a solution of chloride of
zinc cylinder should
Section of cell showing internal arrangement; C, C, C, strips of carbon; L, L, 6trips of lead to maintain contact between carbons; A, cover of without requiring to wood suspending carbon strips; Z, be recharged. Five zinc cylinder. cells of the L size
will
electric
lamp
pint of water.
The
be well amalgamated with mercury before being put into the cell, and it will also be advisable to pour from
oz. to
1
one
to
longer,
without
of
requiring
one
battery
my own
oz.
with the zinc. A saturated solution of bichromate of potash means that this salt must be dissolved in warm water until the water will dissolve no more, this quantity being generally in the proportion of 3 oz. of
it gave signs of form of battery I suspend a number of carbon strips from a cover surrounding the
In
my own
this
porous
cell
cover
is
5"
size cells
L orM
above mentioned.
With lamps
will
be required, and, as the resistance of lamp, wires, and connections may be even higher than the force of
cells
ten
will
lead.
also
make my own
chloride of zinc
by
dis-
carbon filament.
twice
its
no more, and then diluting the liquid with bulk of rain water. Sal-ammoniac (from two
mind
its
that
to three ounces)
may
get up the
best
it
we put on more lamps we must circuit, and must bear in enough cells in series must be employed to proper glow. Even when the lamp is doing
not give the light of
its
may
nominal candle
must be prepared with hot paraffin wax. Melt the wax well into the head of the carbon strip to the depth
of one inch, driving
it
power as compared with that of good sperm candles. It will be well to know that incandescent lamps should never be subjected to enough current to give out a light
with a pale blue or violet
tint,
in with
a hot iron.
In casting
be observed that the hot lead will drive out and burn excess of paraffin, but enough will be left to prevent the bichromate salt from creeping up under the head. If the carbons can be cast in a ring of lead it will be an advantage to do so the next
it
will
They are working safely when they give a white glow, slightly tinged with yellow. The "granule" battery is not suitable to the maintenance of arc lights, nor to similar work demanding a
large
volume of current
I
at
high tension.
I
best
method
is
by
Before
close
this
article,
may mention
here
autogenous soldering
"eaten away" in the course of a few months, whilst copper and brass wires soldered to the heads soon disappear. Mr. Dale will supply suitable cells and parts for them at the undermentioned prices Stoneware cells, iod. each stoneware cells, L and size, 2s. and 2S. 9d. Porous cells for the 6 in. high batteries, 6d. each for the larger sizes, 9d. and iod. each. Zinc
ordinary solder gets
:
porous cells, to order, is. per lb. or amalgamated, ready for working, is. 3d. per lb.
fit
cylinders to
FIG.
3.
AMATEUR
that
The
L,
for
K,
is. 3d.
is. o,d.
M,
2s. 3d.
Suitable carbons,
is.;
for K,
may
L, is. 9d.;
M,
8d.
Rough
thin strips
I
also mention that the any damage to his patent rights from amateurs imitating my form of the battery, and will be most happy to supply them with materials, or
fear
esteemed correspondent, " Electrified Lawyer," has favoured me with a sketch of a lamp devised and made by himself. Fig. 3 shows this lamp, which is made of the following homely materials wide-mouthed glass jar or pickle-bottle, into the mouth of which fits a bung or a circular disc of wood. Through this passes a bit of fine platinum wire this is made into a loop, in imitation of Swan's lamp carbon, and the other end is passed out through the
:
my
Two
on
suitable to
be worked by the
5-candle
each side of the jar by a pair of binding screws (telegraph pattern). These straps rise up by the side of
the
jar,
and
tightly clip
power each lamp. Mr. Dale sells these from 4s. 6d. each. I have already stated that it will require five cells in series to light up one of those small lamps but it must be understood that I refer to incandescent lamps of comparatively low resistance, such as the Swan lamps, the Woodhouse and Rawson lamps, or those supplied by Mr. Dale with the battery. Such lamps require a current strength of from 1*3 to i j amperes, with an E.M.F of nine volts, to properly light up the carbon filaments, and this strength can be
; -
On
connecting the wires from a ten-cell Bunsen battery to the binding screws of the lamp, the platinum loop gave out enough light to see to read a book by it comfortably.
The
made up
made
a small arc
appears that its performance was not so satisfactory as the incandescent lamp above menReaders who may wish to imitate this lamp tioned.
522
will please
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
understand that a white glass jar should be
as
Copper strap
is,
will
that
it
would be found
inferior
The ends
may be
To
be required
one experiment,
for
it
is
just possible
evening's amusement.
we have been able to keep clear of morand we might continue to do so in the present work, by making crosscuts with the saw on both post and rail, where they meet, chipping off a bit from each, and nailing the two together. But by using the mortise and tenon we shall be able to make a far stronger, neater, and more workmanlike fence.
tise joints
carbon,
For information on casting lead heads to strips of I must refer my readers to p. 415, Vol. I., and
on
electric lights,
is
Our
posts are,
rails
we
will say,
an extremely about
make up
to
through the middle of the post, as far apart at their is wide, and the neck of wood left
is
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
By
between
ARTHUR TORKE.
strong chisel.
Fig. 29
a tenon and Fig. 30 shows a vertical section of the post through the mortise, and explains the
rail cut to
making
almost impossible so
may
find a
which the ends of two rails are shaped to meet together. Nothing can be more film and compact than these when driven home and any possibility of movement is prevented by the rails being nailed to the " stuck," which comes half-way between every two posts, and which is pointed, and driven well
way
and
in
fit
For fence-making, more than for any other kind of rustic work, there is no material to be compared
way.
with straight larch poles.
long, looks
so'
first
being
made
for
it
with a
crowbar.
No
other
wood
lasts so
well, or
makes
so complete a safcguird.
To give Rustic Verandahs and Trellis-work. designs for trellis-work and rustic verandahs for cottages
A
is
fair
my
3 feet 9 inches.
to
be
guarded against, a
In the three designs given in Figs. 26, 27, and 28, the former standard is followed, the posts rising about
4
feet
above
to
the
ground.
Not
less
than
feet
ought
bo allowed for the posts below the surface. These posts are supposed to be placed 8 feet apart a good distance for strength though fencing posts are often set at longer intervals 9 or 10 feet. The
;
But such designs must necessarily have occupied considerable space, and I see with alarm the number to which my drawings are increasing. It also occurs to me that, to be of direct practical value, such designs ought to be fitted to the requirements cf the particular spaces in which they would
articles.
have
to
be erected.
In
the sketches already given of the fronts of houses, of the porch, and of
terials will
made
is J
of an
The fence, Fig. 26, is light and simple, has little work or timber in it, and will look well for situations in which it can be used. It will be a safe protection against horses, cows, and grown sheep but not against young pigs, lambs, or poultry, as the lozenge;
Most
made
with regard
to
to the front,
the vcrandih.
There
I
is,
little
use of which
in the decoration of
verandahs, which
shaped openings will be 9 to 10 inches across. Fig. 27, on the other hand, will give full security. In its lower half, where only danger is to be looked for, there will be no opening more than 3 inches wide consequently nothing bej ond a very small chicken
could find
Fig.
This
is
rustic
wanted, as in making a festoon for light creepers along the lop of an opening. It will therefore be of occasional service in other places than verandahs I show such a in summer-houses, in porches, etc.
line is
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
These chains are scarcely known
work, but they are
in
5*3
English rustic
commonly seen
not the
first
in
Holland and
is
Belgium.
first
This
is
time, nor
this the
publication, in
which
is that of making chairs, tables, etc., summer-house and lawn and the superiority of articles thus formed over those made of iron or of wrought wood, is, in point of tasle, beyond all
rustic carpentry
for the
the notice of
my
1
English fellow-workers.
is
question.
A rustic
wood, from
chain
made by
to 2 inches in diameter,
according to
them to a uniform length say 4 inches, or rather longer if the sticks are large. These form the straight parts of the chain. The bent parts, which interlock with each other, are made of small rods, say of i inch diameter. Willow will do, but hazel is tougher and better. These also should be cut to uniform lengths say 6 inches each and split. The manner in which they are bent round the ends of the larger pieces and linked into each other
summer-house I indicated a table of Such a table would not require to be movable, and this would render its construction a
In
larger
my
considerable
size.
demanded
might simply be let into the ground, and when the top has been fixed on and covered,
them, four
pillars,
For the edge of a large table of this kind, the shown in Fig. 32 is pretty and useful. Falling,
may
be
will
prevent too
made to do, to a depth of some inches, it much of the unornamental pillars being
the
is
They
in this
are fastened
seen.
with nails.
of
work, lengths
top
of a
in
their
rough and
rustic table
one which
shall at the
its
same time be
surroundings, be firm,
Boxes for Flowers. To contain growing flowers, whether as window boxes or in other situations, no
receptacles look better and
those
made
of rustic-work.
The drawback
is,
to using
when so employed it quickly decays. No wood can long stand constant contact with damp earth, and frequent floodings with water. Still, when the effect is so good, and the labour of renewal so small, as in the case of window-boxes, it may be worth while to
incur the trouble of
fourth year.
is a desideratum which has yet be introduced. Bare board is and must be unsightly, and any kind of manufactured covering for it would be out of place and in bad taste. For the want of something better we are forced to fall back on our mosaic work which cannot, from its very nature, present that smoothness so desirable in the top of a table. We have, therefore, to make our mosaic for this purpose as neat and level as possible. We must
;
all
third or
The box
divided into
itself
of any rough board, and the front should be squares, and ornamented with mosaics
may be made
same thickness, and carefully trim off every knot. For such work, peeled withy rods are very suitable, among which some smooth hazel sticks may be introduced for variety of colour. In Fig. 33 we have a small movable table for use Its top is in a small summer-house, or on a lawn. To secure iS inches square, and its height 26 inches. firm standing, it will be well to choose the cross pieces which form the bottom a little curved, and to place
them,
like those in the cut,
of small rods, in a geometrical pattern. nailed round the edge of the box, on
A
its
split
rod
top, will
hide the edge of the mosaic to the front, and that of the rough board all round. Holes should be bored through the bottom to let off any superfluous moisture
and
if
the window-ledge
is
long,
it
will
be found more
lengths.
is
convenient to
make
more
The construction of this table is sufficiently The two cross-pieces are cut half through, and
together at their intersection
;
The
of a
more
to
the
ambitious kind.
stand on either side of a rustic porch, or at either hand of the entrance to a summer-house. Such a vase would hold a plant of considerable size, the receptacle
for earth being 14 inches square at the top,
The
movement
elm board.
to
in the joint.
I
The
top
is
of
inch or \ inch
in this
and as
3 feet.
case
is
of course, made of board. I have used fir cones and mosaic for decorating it bark might be used instead, but it would need renewing by the end of the second season. This vase might be
;
The
made
of oak bangles.
Larch,
and other
straight
fir
rustic purposes,
prettily varied
by making the earth-box octagonal. Rustic Furniture. Among the minor uses of
to chair-making.
stiff
do not as a rule lend themselves well So used they are apt to look too Oak bangles, on the other hand, and formal.
5^4
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
action of the weather,
seem admirably
fitted
the
applica-
ticular
work. Their
tion
of
paint
is
crookedness
may
to
altogether inadmis"
sible.
now be turned
The very
is
used,
much,
of
it,
if
not most
far
being
much
with
curve,
difficulty
in
selecting
pieces
the
double
fits
which
for
RUSTIC
FENCE.
;
FIRST EXAMPLE.
trable to
deal
and
forming the main framework of the chair nor in finding a branch with the bold single curve required for the back. The other pieces are such as
will
them
woods
at all
come
to
In
fitting
oil
which
will
some little dexterous use of the saw will be needed. The seat, which requires more smoothness than could
be got from oak, should be made
well
wood and thus render it less liable to be by moisture. To paint rustic work would go
it
far to deprive
of
its
rusticity
and
simplicity,
its
which
are
chief charms.
of hazel
rods.
or
withy
chair
worked
a
plain
with
is
the
all
Such
will
paint
be found com-
whether
I
it
and can
easily
be in-doors or outof-doors,
am
in-
anotheras required.
abso-
necessary,
not in use
a point
RUSTIC
FENCE.
SECOND EXAMPLE.
worth consideration as work made of oak bangles does not last well when exposed to the weather. In the long garden seat, Fig. 36, I have also used oak for the supports the other parts may be made of straighter wood, such as strong hazel sticks, or small elm saplings, for the larger pieces, and smaller hazel rods for all the remaining work. As this article will generally have to
;
to
be attained
by adding
objects
to
to
many
other
will
be well to
spaces
be-
and
leave
suggestions
given,
may
be underto
any steps
kind
pre-
have little difficulty in forming designs In of his own. doing this, as well as in working out the plans which I have drawn, I wish
every
all
success
to to
car-
who attempt
pentry
from
the
FIG. 28.
RUSTIC
FENCE.
THIRD EXAMPLE.
foLow them.
RUSTIC CARPENTRY.
526
HO W TO
TO
UTILIZE
HOW
buff,
This adapta-
tion
of
our friends
who may
feel
matter in hand
may
We
{For Illustrations, see Supplement
OME
severe attack of
centres,
"model mania,"
con-
shall require a few castings, the patterns for which shall be as simple as practicable in form and construction. Some of these castings may be made at home, or they may be entirely dispensed with, and
hard wood supports substituted these would do very well for sawing and grinding work, but would be
;
We
must
first
we
This
2,
worked it by foot with success, although my treadle was much inferior to the regulation pattern, and the stand was not as rigid as that of a sewing machine. Since then, I have often thought that a superannuated treadle machine might be regenerated in various ways, and a new lease taken on its valuable existence. The class of machine which I consider to be most
suitable for conversion
is
Howe
so that there
shall require two supports or bearings for the intermediate pulley spindle at A, and two for the saw
spindle.
alike of the
form given
which show
Howe"
pattern,
it
being very
rigid in construction,
and possessing a
The
To
this,
as already implied, a
it
lathe
may
must necessarily
2-inch centres,
size,
elevation,
If
it is
be low
This
although
appara-
these bearings
3.
may be
be rather small for a beginner, as he would soon be However, should a lathe be apt to outgrow its limits. adapted, the arrangement for driving should be the
Fig.
In that case, Fig. 4 may be dispensed with. may be used for the intermediate
same
as
shown
in Fig.
the speed may be varied to suit the work; the flywheel having but one grooved speed renders variation impracticable, unless
is
employed.
and
skill
On
who do
buy
make
It is
much
better to
and here
is
let
and that size is not more than 2 or 2i-inch I most strongly advise him to wait a bit till it
can swing 3J or 4 inches clear of the bed. After that, his aspirations can be supported on wooden blocks under the headstock and poppit. The best general use that could be made of an old
to
fit
it
it may also be used for bearing carrying head of saw spindle, but being too weak to resist the thrust in drilling, the support for back centre should The pewter castings could be be made of brass. made at home in moulds of sand. A little zinc should be added to it to make it harder, and it could be melted in a ladle on the kitchen fire. Before going further, we will suppose these castings to have been obtained, and describe their preparation for the spindles. Take Fig. 3 first, and file them true on the bottom or base, keeping them square with each other, then bring them to the same height exactly, and fit the caps or upper parts of the bearings, drilling two holes in each for {-inch screws, as shown. Having done this, screw the caps firmly in their places, and carefully drill the holes for bearings, keeping them central on the line of contact. Take pains to ensure good holes, and to keep each true and square with its base. Also drill and countersink for woodscrews four holes in each foot, as shown, for fastening down, and oil-holes, about T 5 inch diameter, in caps.
'
The
bearings finished,
we next
XXII. 01
Tig 10
WasherS. Nuts
fi<a.8
Saw
Spindle. Scale, 8
HOW
TO
Section of Spindle
ScaJe,
8 Inches
to I Foot.
AS
.'Al'TELL
Si
E THE TABLE OF
XX||
San
Spindle.
Sole!
TO 01
HOW TO
to the pulleys.
5*7
in
in
Fig.
9.
Two
on this pin, which is also shown at washers and nuts, Fig. 10, must
and
on
must be a good
5 is
fit
shown
at A, A, Figs. 5
and
6.
Fig.
a section of
grooved to suit a T% or f -inch band. The other speeds step from 3 J to 2-k and 1 J inches diameter, and are grooved to suit a j-inch band. These bands shouldbe of round leather, such as are used for sewing machines, and can be procured of any agent for the same. Instead of the wire hook connection used, I should prefer the
ends butted and fastened with waxed shoemaker's thread, a score being cut in the band for the thread to
lie in.
These may be made of brass or iron, as convenient, and must be a good fit especially the nut on the end of the spindle, which is turned $ inch in diameter, with a corresponding thread cut on it as shown. This should be done in a lathe, if possible, as screwing by hand with dies is an uncertain means of obtaining truth. A thinner washer must be used to suit the With the thickness of emery wheel employed. arrangement shown, provision is made for a wheel f inch thick. The collars at A and B must fit the ends or sides of bearing in support, which, for this purpose, must be turned up with the file. The setscrew forming the back-centre or tail-pin must be made of steel, not less than & inch in diameter,
be provided for tightening up the saw.
This
will
it
12.
FIG. II.
SUBSTITUTE
1 lalf size.
for
C,
end elevation.
the spindles.
eleva-
EMERY WHEEL.
for tightening up, as
We now come to
mediate speed
is
3
The one
or
for inter7.
may be
seen
is
It
The
round
as
may
made
as hard as possible.
details,
we
will
now
The saw
spindle should be of
back end may be hardened to resist undue wear on the centre, which should also be of
steel.
on the fixing. This, if proper care has make a been bestowed on the supports in drilling the bearings, will not involve much trouble, as the top of machine
tables are generally pretty level.
Fig. 8
is
full sized
view of
this part.
;
The
A is to keep the spindle in place that at B forms a back for the saw, emery wheel, nose chuck
collar at for drills, or
whatever
may
be
fitted.
The female
size,
the intermediate spindle. To find the correct position of this, place a straight-edge across the side of the driving wheel underneath, and keeping it there, bring
against the back edge of the table, and mark on the Repeat table the centre of the groove in the wheel.
it
back centre
A hole, J,- inch in diameter, from damage. must be drilled in front of the collar at B, into which a steel pin must be driven tightly. This forms a driver for the saw, which must have a corresponding
marks by a line right across the table. Now put the spindle and pulley in its bearings, and set the centre of the speed marked B fair with the line on the table. Mark two of the holes in each foot and screw down, carefully lining up the slack places under the feet with
5*8
paper, until,
CHEST-EXPANDING BRACES:
when screwed down
in
HOW
TO
MAKE THEM.
etc.,
The remaining
;
between the
centres.
and
all
screw causes the bearings to shade to suit. Repeat the above operation for the saw spindle supports, and set the grooved speeds in
line with
any "shake" in them. and have a trial run. Oil the bearings freely, and give the gear a good spin round for some time. Things may be a little stiff at first, but they will soon drop into harmony. The fly-wheel will be found rather light for sawing purposes. It should have an addition made to its weight in the shape of an extra rim or ring of lead fastened on the outside of the present one. This ring should be not less than 2 inches deep by from f to f inch thick, and would weigh about 3olbs. It can easily be fixed, as the rims of the Howe
We can
now
fit
and and end elevation respectively of a rest for holding the work to be drilled against. The contrivance for advancing the work is also shown. This rest, or head, may be cast off the pattern for back centre support, with the addition of a longer boss or bearing at the top, and a modification of the centre web for taking the lever, also a tongue on the under side of the base to fit in the slot shown in table at S, Fig. 2. T is the support against which the work is held it may be made of wood, fastened by screws to the flange on end of sliding arm a. This arm must be a good fit in the bearing, so that it will not shake and chatter. A fork or jaw is screwed on the back end of A, to carry the pin for the lever, L. This lever swings on a pin passing through the centre web
to the drilling apparatus, Figs. 13
With regard
14 are a side
of the support, as
shown
at p,
and
is
provided with a
handle
at the top.
The
flat,"
so to speak.
which the pin in the fork passes must be elevated as shown, to allow free travel to the lever and the arm.
heavy fly-wheel
is
The
fork
to
lever,
must also be a good fit on the sides of the keep the arm A from turning under the
drill.
pressure of the
have
With the lever, work can be advanced or withdrawn very quickly if desired. It is thus very suitable for woodwork and small holes in metal. As shown, it
is
inch deep.
To
suit
drills,
2,
fastened
down by
shown
If
limits,
the table, as
and
it
is
way
So much
Now
washer underneath.
wheel business.
venient substitute
a solid one
may be made
and a good coat of hot glue laid on, over which, before it dries, the emery must be freely sprinkled. This will be found to answer very well, and it can be renewed as required. Soft leather may be glued or pegged on instead, and the emery used with oil. A useful form is that of a disc of lead turned and faced truly,
being also used with the emery, and the article under operation held either on the outer circumference
oil
For holding centre bits or square-ended drills, hard wood chucks are very suitable, being easily and cheaply made. The deep washer for the saw should be used to screw these against, as it covers the plain part and a little of the thread on the nose of the spindle. A small hole should be drilled in the large
end, corresponding to the pin for the saw, so that the
washer
spindle.
may
"
collar
on the
A handy appliance, which can be made of wood, consists of two sides or flanges, capable of being screwed together and of gripping old rags or soft leather between them. Flour emery is used with this, being dusted on as required. It is a
or against the side.
capital assistance to obtaining a fine polish,
and
is
OUNG
bility,
cheaply made.
The
construction
is
shown
in Fig. 12.
Emery
who has
from several causes, amongst which may be mentioned those of indigestion, destudy
neglect
up independent of a lathe. Anyone a good lathe, and proper respect for it,
it
to the deteriorating
may
be added.
CHEST-EXPANDING BRACES:
age, and,
if
HOW
TO
MAKE THEM.
529
persisted
in,
causes
a permanent deformity
as
evil effects
known
;
round shoulders, and the do not stop here for round shoulders frequently indicate a narrow chest and a
contracted place for lungs and stomach, with its accompani-
browned iron or brass buckles; two for the back strap, one for one of the shoulder-straps, and
two for the front button-loops
also a ring for the
loops, this
ring,
maybe
ments of chronic indigestion, headache, and shortness of breath. Persons advanced to the middle age of life grow round-shouldered by reason of
their close attention to business
at the desk, or the stooping
such as those used to hold bunches of large keys. Harness-makers use a special
tool, or
whilst sewing
but
all
it
may be
held in a vice, or
ing
the stitch-
may
maker's sewing-machine.
Now for
FIG. II.
and
posture
necessarily
whilst at
by them
WHEN
FINISHED.
has been said that the stooping habit of young persons can be cured, and the tendency
the work-table.
It
and
Then
cut out
on the part of the elder ones may be avoided by wearing a pair of braces so made as to hold back the shoulders and support the back, whilst it
to deformity
Then
chest-expanding braces, a pair of which may be made by an amateur himself from the following directions, or
these will enable a worker in leather to
order.
another piece of the same length, but ii inches wide, for Fig. 7. Four pieces, 6 inches long by \ inch wide, should now be cut for the four loops, Figs. 2 and 5 and, if these have been cut according to the diagram
Fig. 10, there will
to spare to
make them
to
full-grown
by ii
1
(Fig. 3.)
The
Fig.
dotted lines on
* 3
show where,
I
whom
have not
5, 7,
made.
Materials required.
and
8,
but
it
will
be
to
piece of
brown
;W
Fig
Fig. Fig.
4.
V
5-
well to stitch on
some
loops
to
these,
harness - makers,
measuring 24 inches
in length
by
7 inches
in breadth.
'/*
Qp
(
'f^.
a
7
piece
i
-7~
<
Fig.
8.
dotted
same
knot of sadFig. 9.
;
i- *.
lines
back-piece
position of
show the
supports.
a pair of saddler's
or
cut
harness - maker's
6
i
9
i
out
__
all
parts to their
Fig. 6.
j.....
'
sail-makers
7
2
Fig.
7.
or a saddler's palm
1,
3
\
i
'
5
Fig. 10.
2 5
and
the holes in
also
FIG.
leather.
We
shall
BACK BUTTON LOOPS. FIG. 3. SUPPORT FOR RING. FIG. BACK BUTTON LOOPS, RING AND SUPPORT. FIG. 5. FRONT BUTTON LOOPS. FIG. FRONT BUTTON STRAPS. FIG. BACK STRAP. FIGS. SHOULDER STRAPS. FrG. DIAGRAM SHOWING
I.
BACK
PIECE.
4.
FIG. 2.
have
to
go
6.
7.
8,
9.
IO.
also require
some flat
place to
"
)3
the back piece,
leather, to
prevent the
what
is
are
into holes.
be well to line the shoulder and backstraps with chamois leather down to the tapering part of each strap, and to carry this lining over the backs of the buckles. Well, stitch this lining
will also
to
thus
made
will
almost
a life-time.
first
buttonholes,
button to rest
a knife.
If
in,
In cutting the loops for the pierce a hole for the shank of the then slit up to the proper length with
you may
near a friendly saddler, or harness-maker, get him to loan you a hollow punch to pierce
may
get
him
to pierce
them
himself.
may
be used,
make such
clean-cut holes.
The
first
To
they must
on a board laid flat, which, termed a roller frame, not a roller board. This board should be framed at the ends to prevent it warping the rollers themselves should be of } inch gas tubing, and made exactly as described in the chapter on the manual action. In order to prevent confusion, I have drawn the rollers much wider apart than they need actually be placed, for if they are \ inch apart, it will allow ample room for working, so they may be arranged on a board much narrower than that shown. They are arranged in pairs as in Fig. 106, and work in studs as previously described the arms need not be more than inch above the rollers, so that the total height occupied by the roller frame is less than 3 inches. The holes in the roller studs and arms should be bushed with cloth
in such case
;
:
The
be put up in form, as shown in sketch (Fig. n), then put on as one would put on a coat, the back button loops must then be attached to the back buttons of the trousers, and the front button-straps, with their loops, brought under the arms, then fastened to the
front buttons.
If the brace is too
tight, let
when
in action.
to those
Squares are required somewhat similar used in the stop action in Fig. 77
taking
Fig.
is
but
in
out the
up too much height, we make them with one arm, about twice as long as the other, as in
cj9<7,
back strap, or get some person to do it, for it will be found difficult to do it oneself but wear the brace at all times as tight as it can be borne, both in work and at rest, and thus hold back the shoulders, whilst the chest is thrown forward.
;
and according
to the
is
way
the long
arm
transmitted by the
in
square
squares
may be made of f
made from
mahogany down
rate pieces
a saw
=>-=!-=-<=
cut being
line,
to the dotted
fr
and a piece of thin veneer glued into this cut, making a strong joint. The long arm may be about 5 inches long, and the short one 2-J- inches. The hole for the centre to work on should be bushed with cloth and holes must also be bored through near the end of each arm for the wires to pass
thus
;
ism necessary
to
through.
we
be required
in Fig.
arrangements of
or stickers,
The ordinary equal sided square which will in some portions of the actions is shown 99, and is made in a similar manner to the
will
squares,
trackers,
others.
will furnish
us with the
in
means
of transmitting the
re-
We
sticker
assume
that
we
and
roller action
shown
rail,
89 and 100.
of
The squares
same
reasons that they are needed on the manual viz., in consequence of the pipes being arranged alternately
on each side of the organ, and being situated beyond the range of the keyboard, and in some cases brought It may be asked "Why should we in front of it.
place the pipes alternately at the sides
;
come under the respective pedal keys. A sticker runs from the short arm to the roller arm, and another sticker runs from the arm on the other
end of the
roller to
why
not
have them in consecutive order and have a backfall fan frame action as for the ordinary manual action ? The answer is that the organ is better balanced by placing the pipes in alternate order, and that it prevents the speech of the pipes being interfered with by
down being connected to the long top arm of this square. The action will thus be that when the pedal key is pressed down, the lower arm of the front square is pushed forwards, and carries the sticker with it, and the other end of the sticker presses against the roller arm and causes the roller to partially revolve on
531
is
axis.
This,
of
course,
arm
The
102,
shown
in Fig.
end
of which
and requires
is
only
squares
with stickers or
pushes the lower arm of the back square, bringing down the top arm, and with it the pulldown and
valve.
trackers
action
required.
Fig.
103
work
towards the
key.
left,
way the
flat, is
wood marked C
used
sound-board.
arm of the front square, and thus saves more than an inch in the height of the keyis
in conjunction with the roller action, the front square should be inverted as shown in Fig. 102, in order that the trackers may pass above the rollers and not interfere with them. The roller action and the square
board, which
a great acquisition.
is
action
is
is
the rollers at
If a pull action
inverted,
required,
arm
as shown at S in Figs. 101, 102, and 104, so that it comes under the end of the pedal key, which would
c.
A tracker instead
would not be required if the back pipes were only planted off from the side sound-boards, as the square action would then be used for those notes. In fact, if, as I have before suggested, the sound-boards were not returned
lines,
shown by dotted
would be
all
other
arm
is
side
pipes in
were only
in the previous
action. The trackers must be secured in their places by means of leather nuts screwed on to the tapped wires on the ends. Thus it will be seen that for a push action we use stickers, and for a pull action we use trackers, and either of these may
be
all
that
In the case of
would be required for that arrangement. any channel that comes opposite to its
own pedal
to
is
it
may
and where
it
not very
much
In
have shown all the stickers or trackers in the first octave by thick lines, and those in the second octave by thinner ones. If the sound-board shown in Fig. 91 is adopted, the back square is not needed, as the wire in the sticker passes through a hole in a brass plate, and pushes the valve open or if a pull action is required, the soundboard faces the other way, and the hooks on the end of the trackers would be hooked on to the
;
stickers or trackers may be slightly bent so as to admit of their being carried direct across in a similar
manner.
case in point
it
is
shown
in the
GGG
other
also
occurs in the
When
the
main
we have
or
it is
easy to
make
viz
a backward action which are brought to the front on each side of the key-board and the right-angled action for the pipes at the sides of the organ. The second of these actions is shown in Fig. 105, and will be readily
tracker actions just described
for the pipes
;
We
so that action
pedals.
to
make
when
is
understood.
the square
with the
other
roller, and a sticker or a tracker connects the arm of the roller to the square under the pull-
if the first style of sound-board is used, or is connected directly to the valve if the second style is adopted. If a pull action is required, the sticker
is an extremely simple piece of mechanshown in the general view in Fig. 10S. A set of backfalls marked B is placed just under the keyboard of the manual. A small sticker marked s connects the back end of the backfall to the manual key-tail, and a tracker connects the front end
This
is
ism,
and
would be
and the tracker second if a push action, then the tracker would be first and the sticker second, and the front square would, of course, be
first
;
inverted.
to the front square under the This tracker is hooked on to a small loop of whipcord fixed into the square. This loop must be only just large enough for the wire The coupler may be made either as to pass through.
of
the
backfall
pedal
key-tail.
532
an octave coupler or unison coupler thus, if the CCC is connected to the CC manual key, and so on all through, the effect of the coupler will be to bring on to the pedals as many stops as may be drawn on the manual, the 8 feet stops would sound an octave above the pedal bourdon, the 4 feet 2 octaves
pedal key
and the holes and key-tails are elongated so that the wires may work freely when the
to allow of this drop,
in backfalls
raised or depressed.
more
clearly the
manner
in
which
and the
If,
how-
LJ
FIG.
IOO.
PEDAL
(sticker) RIGHT.
SECTION
FRAME.
OF ROLLER
FIG.
FIG. 104.
FIG.
FIG. 99.
SQUARE.
LONG TOP.
FIG.
FIG.
ever, the
CC
pedal key
is
connected to the
CC manual
C
in the
key,
and so on from
backfalls. The ends of the bridge are cut to form a shoulder or tenon, which runs between two
and
uprights in the
same manner
be
in unison.
pivot or wheel
is
The
action,
When
the
stop
is
pushed
in, it
rail or
bridge
backfalls B
and the
two arms, marked A and B, raise or depress the bridge by acting on these wheels according as the stop is The stop knob rod is conpulled out or pushed in. nected to a lever e, which works on a pivot at the
533
is
connected to
the lever
and the
of the
but
are
quite
upright
roller.
arm
and
This sketch
much room.
also shows the stop knob drawn out when pushed in, it
would, of
course,
have pedals without having a separate pedal organ, by merely making the pedal keyboard and the coupler backthe pedal keys act on alls, so that the manual keys
only. This arrange-
the
arm
up
less
room and
expen-
being less
down
roller
until
it
at the
FIG. 107.
movement
of the backfalls.
the
advantage
of
A coupler from the swell organ manual to the pedals would be made in just the same way, and, if in addition to the one just described, it
would be placed below
pedal coupler
is
it.
pedals.
Of
course,
if
the swell to
must be
allowed between the floor and the manual keys. I think that one of the couplers is sufficient for the two-
The pedal keyboard is placed so that the centre C key is immediately under the middle of the manual, consequently the pedal board is slightly to the left of
It
need not be
fixed in
manual instruments which I have described. The backfalls must be centred so that the back ends which push up the stickers do not rise more than manual $- inch when in action, or they will force the
keys too high. If the centre pins pass through at a point about f from the front ends, they will be about right.
any way
pedal keys
may
arms of
A small mark or mortise on the would indicate the exact position which the keyboard should occupy, and thus, when not STOP KNOR con.
ffl
The depth
is
only f inch, hence the necessity for the pins of the coupler backfalls being placed out of
the centre.
If full
compass pedals of
made
IN SEC
GENERAL
1
VIEW
inch to a foot.
HOLLER
FRAME
2
534
in use, or
requisition,
way.
how I overcame my diffido not purpose going into minute details, but merely to give such hints as will enable anyone
your readers some idea of
culties.
I
above the front squares, on the under side which touches the top of them, would prevent any tendency to rising, and keep all squares in their proper place when the pedal keyboard is removed (see H, in
small bar of
fixed
wood
cloth or baize
most needed
in the laboratory.
is
necessary,
modify,
Fig. 108.)
It will,
and
even
invent
and trackers
should be
action.
made
rather
apparatus,
to suit the re-
manual
If any of my readers propose placing more than one stop on the pedal sound-board, it will be necessary for them to use sliders and upper boards similar to
quirements
of
any
ex-
b
FIG.
necesSome
One stop on
have given
days made use of the most ordinary materials which (by the exercise of that invenin
their youthful
specifications, but I find from the letters of correspondents that some amateurs are building organs of larger scope than those, in which cases an additional pedal stop would be an improvement. The swell and tremulant will be described in my
"
was so eminent a feature in their no doubt, was sharpened to a wonderful extent by the circumstances in which they were placed) they turned into most effective instruments for the pursuit of their favourite study. Indeed,
tive faculty that
characters,
and
that,
next chapter.
A
{To be continued.) \A
>
,
-i
I believe that their success as experimenters was owing in no small degree to their early difficulties, and the training which they consequently received in the school of "necessity, which is the mother of
invention."
Spirit
Lamp. One
is
of the
first
things needed in
the laboratory
rally takes the
some source of
heat,
and
,
this
gene-
to
amp,
be
or,
ing to obtain an insight into the operations of nature, that wonderful master-
obtained,
only,
wisdom and benevolence, an all but indispensable pursuit. Not however, is a knowledge of chemistry necessary in order to become acquainted
piece of Divine
be made by the
3. SLATE SHELF.
!
I
cork of
we may
various
unpro-
insertion
of
piece
of
rpcp
glass tubing
about an inch
FIG. 4. quill.
the
different
;
arts
I
and
fear
manufactures
but
meter as an ordinary
many
this
FIG.
I. CLAMP FOR RE TORT STAND. VERTICAL
are
useful
deterred
from
ac-
study
on
count of
the quantity
and
variety of apparatus
is
which
MID-SECTION'.
its
Through the tube a piece of cotton wick is drawn, and cut off smooth about a quarter of an inch above the tube. Pour in some methylated spirit, insert the cork, apply a light, and the spirit lamp is ready to give forth its heat for any purpose for which it may be
necessary.
successful
prosecution.
Having
tried,
as far as
possible,
to construct
my own
I
A piece of brass tubing of the required diameter will do just as well as the glass tubing
;
avoid the
cost
could
or,
if
neither of these
is
may be
lamp,
manufacture at home,
made
of
tin.
Remember
that this
is
spirit
DECORATIVE CARPENTRY.
and,
else.
535
is
wood which will take a good polish, generally mahogany; the iollowing are very good dimensions for it : thickness, \ inch; length, 10
of any hard
made
may be made into an effipneumatic by fitting it up with a shelf of slate, through the centre of which a hole has been made about i inch diameter to admit the. delivery tube
other like-shaped vessel,
cient
;
small blocks of
feet,
wood
nailed under
it
or
it
may
inches
breadth,
inches.
These, however,
may be
of the pie-dish.
it
bee-hive shelf
is
preferred,
The
upright rod,
may be made of a piece of strong iron wire, generally used for fencing purposes, from 9 to iS inches long. A stair-rod cut in two makes a
such as
be made of a tin canister through the side of which a round hole about | inch diameter has been cut, and also another, somewhat smaller, through the bottom. Figs. 3 and 4 will show the construction of both forms.
may
handsome uprights. The broken end is sharpened with a file, and fastened into the piece of wood which forms the base. The clamp may be
pair of very
The dotted
lines in
Cork Borers.
made
is
These
may be made
file.
of a small block of hard wood, in which a nut so fixed that its screw, on being turned, acts as a
Fig.
1,
A hole
is
pinching screw.
planation,
which
done.
is
a vertical mid-
any
further ex-
how
this
may be
The
smaller the
each tube at a short distance from the other end, through which a strong piece of wire is passed to form a handle. See the diagram in Ama-
block of wood, consistently with strength, the neater it will look. Those who think this clamp too clumsy
teur Work,
Vol.
I.,
p. 133.
Condensing Tube.
may
a brass
17
n
-CONDENSING TUBE.
required, as they are
The
each end of which (Fig. 5) a cork is tightly fitted. corks are then bored to admit a glass tube 24
This is then inches long and inch diameter. pushed through the corks, until there is an equal
length of
outer
tube.
it
projecting
beyond
then
each end
of
the inch
hole
is
made about an
;
or so from each
of
into
one
is
TIG, 5.
these
is
inserted
funnel, which
easily
made from a
triangle,
the form
of a
the
edges
brought
together
and
is fas-
name
indicates.
The
be
soldered,
is
This
is
draw
off the
heated water,
who
has seen
it
can make.
The
needed for its construction. As some amateurs might be at a loss if they had not some measurements to guide them, I will give those which would suit for a frame holding six test tubes Length of 5 inches by \ inch. bottom piece, 12 inches breadth of bottom piece, 2| inches thickness of bottom piece, I inch. Length of upper piece, 1 1 inches breadth of upper piece, i inch thickness of upper piece, inch. Length of pillars, or, supports, 2^ inches. The bottom piece will be improved by having each edge bevelled. Six holes are to be bored through the upper piece, and corresponding ones scooped out of the bottom piece the latter may conveniently be done with a turning gouge of the proper size. The pillars will look much better if they are neatly turned. The measurements given will, of course, need to be altered for any other
Fig. 2 will give almost all the information
and thus keep up a continuous circulation of cold water about the inner tube. This syphon is most conveniently made of soft quill tubing, which is bent into the required shape by the heat of the spirit lamp.
Fig. 5
is
when
in use,
accordingly.
DECORATIVE CARPENTRY.
BgJ. GLEESON -WHITE.
EFORE
it
may
number
be as well to suggest a few other forms that were crowded out of my last cbapten The design in Fig. 28 shows another form suitable for a library where bookcases carried to any given height on either side allow
Pneumatic
Trough.
deep pie
dish,
or
any
536
the side pieces to start
DECORATIVE CARPENTRY.
either
side,
the
ends
from the floor without being in the way. This treatment is well adapted for the door between two rooms of a town-house that occasionally is found in
place
of the
below.
The
is
more china
comfortably
in
or glass
installed
shelf
more
safety
common folding-doors.
and
"S
general
it
appeara
ance, as
air
of being
new
arrival or a
temporary
and
useful
feature
to
addition
in
when placed
place,
many a
ing
dining orliving
wall
tho-
a recognized
suitable also
and which
it
by
to
isolating
its
roughly
takes less
adds
apparent
space
chair
than
or
even
a
if
importance.
In Fig. 29 a Gothic
small
table
;
would
wished,
occupy
small
over-door
is
shown.
glazed
The turned
flat
pillars are
cupboards
might
replace
against the
the niches
decorated
the
to
taste applied to
compartin
ments
part
ately
the
the
the
immediover
at
drawing,
not,
but
I
door.
The bracside
shelf,
kets
actual
carry
work
shelf
the
main
projects
J
arms
the
inch over
supports.
work
in suitable
Where
much
was
pattern,
only
bric-a-brac
suggested by the
available,corner
shelves
The panels
are
intended to be
treated in Gothic
style to
and the
the height
wall; a piece of
har-
wood
and
side
monize.
The
be
width
of
details should
uprights
to the wall
as rich as time
should be added
flat
and
allow.
circum-
stances
design
or
FIG. 29.
will This
in this case,
with
shelf
the
top
would
painted
to
carried
across
right
to
the
width of this on
wood
match
537
FIG.
30.OVtK-UOOK
IN
ANGLO-JAPANESE S1YLE.
533
DECORATIVE CARPENTRY.
spective or picturesque effect,
and
to
some
shown,
extent
itself.
it
With regard
astonishing
to
the
bric-a-brac
effect
is
is
how good
the
of the rough
be called the Anglo-Japanese. This style, in the way I have planned for the door shown, is well suited for a drawing-room, being better adapted for that apartment than any that have yet been described, as a
rich yet light effect
peasant pottery of England and the Flemish and Spanish wares when placed at this height. If the
owner's taste likes the painted pipkins and pitchers
that
now
is
at least a place
where
obtained at very
little
with strips of wood from \ inch to inch in width, applied by needle points to the flat surfaces.
and form, as a rule so painfully noticeable, will be by kindly distance dulled, and the proverbial " enchantment to the view " obtained. As no amount of picturesque beauty of a coarse jar makes it come well on a highly polished table, the
their defects of colouring
Japanese gold-laquered paper, obtainable at about a yard at Hindley's, Oxford Street, or any of the Japanese shops, is used to fill up the panels of the wood-framing, or (lincrusta might be used admirably
2s.
ware scraping the and generally damaging the surface it rests on,
is
A skeleton
dado
when the humble pitcher is dragged from its native well to a modern drawing-room table but in the hall,
;
shown.
sill
of a staircase
woodwork, and enclose a paper of richer tone and design than the upper walls. It is intended that the panels with the raised strips should be painted the same colour as the relief obtained by the projection of the wood, and its consequent shadow is sufficient without further emphasis in colour. In future chapters
propose to give a few designs for panels so treated, as I think a very simple and legitimate effect is to be obtained by the use of wood applied in this way.
I
window, or any similar place, the real beauty of the shape or colour is best seen without any inward fear
of results.
On
30,
I
may
prove useful
and
jambs and
lintel
that surround
Beyond
to
the labour of sawing and planing the wood, the trouble is almost nil, while the whole may replace
The
better to understand
my
some
meaning
that
is
let
Jacobean style in the ordinary house, and if the strips were dotted in other instances (not in this) with bold headed nails, I think the sham, if any, would be quite avoided by the palpable fixing of the strips indicated by the nailheads but this is discursive, and must be resumed later. The fixing of the woodwork is so
;
to say, a
pertained to the
present century.
door made in the method that has making of doors throughout the The framing of the panels, of which
six-panelled
doors being
found only
consists
in
simple a question of nails or pegs that no more need be said of that but it will be seen that in this case
;
of two styles, that is to say, side-pieces running vertically from top to bottom, and three rails
the moulding usually round a door has been removed, as the moulding would be unpleasant, coming in the
square woodwork.
the general effect.
The
same width as the styles and the rails in the centre, and at the bottom being about twice as wide as the
top
rail
sufficiently
prominent
to injure
or styles, or, at
all
in the styles
and
rails for
the
And
least,
now, having finished with the over-door, or at devoted as much space as can be spared for
rails,
fitted
into
place, brought
closely
woodwork,
would suggest, as a
safe
motto, " Don't overdo the over-door,'' either in its frequency or in its details. The very simplest of the designs are the best in most cases. I much prefer
Figs. 20, 21, or 24, 25, to any of the more elaborate ones, and find that the simple ones look very much
about half an inch below the surface of the styles and rails. The abrupt perpendicular edge of surrounding
as in
all
show the
framework of styles and rails between the surface of these parts and the surface of the panels is then relieved palliated, if I may be permitted to use the
construction,
expression
by
539
supported
whether
modest
shelf
on a bracket
rails,
is
covered with cloth or velvet, or a more elaborate one or again, it with, perhaps, a mirror above the shelf
;
The
plain door
may be
that one
would
like to
the cabinet-maker's
skill
in other words, is
many
a reader
who has
followed
to us
me
thus
30
has
six panels,
about fourit is
For the benefit of those of our readers who prefer the latter species of brackets, I have produced two designs adapted to two different classes of industry fret-cutting and turning. In the one, the ornamental portion is entirely composed of work from the fret-saw, while in the other, no other ornament than can be produced
and
30
figure."
By no I am
means,
must reply
They are
also in
rapidly coming.
My
door
operation that
may
first
may
neighbour.
door was the removal of all the mouldings in the panels, and at the outer edge of the doors and lintel. Having thus
The
of these
use the technical term, slips of wood midway between the top and bottom of the upper panels, thus, in a very
short time, converting
the difficulty in finding room for the two sets of drawings together, the bracket for turners must be of necessity deferred to a future Part and, perhaps (the
to
;
my
This
piece of legerdemain
accomplished,
being willing), I may, subsequently, have something to say about brackets in which cloth, velvet, or plush compose the principal
Editor and readers
feature in the finished article.
I
on the face of each panel with rectangular strips of wood about half-inch square in section, halving them
together for strength's sake, so that the ends of the
pieces, wherever practicable,
will
now
fret1,
shown
in
Fig.
down by
to them.
them
at right angles
The
little
and lintel. This facing was beyond and above these parts of the woodwork of the door, and overlapped the surface of the wall. The object of this was to get a wider ground for the formation of the panels at the sides and at the top, which were formed by screwing slips to the facing along either edge and putting in transverse pieces between them at intervals, as shown in Fig. 30. The remainder of the work needs no explanation, but the above, I think, was necessary for the enlightenment of some, who might have been somewhat puzzled if I had omitted to give it. (To be continued)
the jambs
carried a
wood over
which must be made on a scale of four times the size drawn, so that the first thing to be done is to draw it out full size on paper. See that you get the curves of the ornament along the top and immediately above the that is, do not have shelf to run well and fluently them the least crooked or broken-backed, or they For those who are accustomed will never look well. to freehand drawing such as this, I will describe a method that, although perhaps a little tedious at first,
be sure to get the thing right. Take the illustraand on the bit you wish to enlarge rule lines Then, at right angles to each other j- inch apart. on the larger drawing you are making, rule lines in Now you can easily the same way inch apart. determine the points where the curves intersect the
will
tion
straight lines.
If a
g.
gibbons.
-I
and
distance between the corresponding horizontal lines) in the same way any and all of the points may
OTHING
points,
be marked, and the curves, when drawn through these must be correct. The ornament running up the sides is all geomework, being circles and quarter circles, and be found in setting these out.
the design has been drawn out on paper
little
There is such an immense variety of these articles in the market at present, that it is really
selection of wall-brackets.
trical
difficulty will
When
it
will
often
a perplexing
affair to
54
maybe managed by pinning the drawing on the wood and slipping a piece of carbonic paper
underneath, so
(a "tracer"
that
by going
ment
for this
underneath.
The plan
and which
didly,
is
I
generally adopt,
find to
work splen"tissue"
design
pencil,
on
ordinary
the pattern
a very slight
the paper,
damping
and
it
will soften
will
come
off readily.
The bracket proper must now be cut out of J inch wood, and when the rebate on the
back to receive the glass has been formed, and the shelf and bracket underneath have been
fitted into their places, the fret-
saw takes up its work. The fretting, as must have been noticed, is cut and glued on the
face of
the
bracket,
giving a
good
solid job,
work, it has the advantage of being strong and not the least likely to snap with handling.
of
if
not
the light
and bottom of the glass. would be as well when cutting them to have another board at
the back, say \ inch thick, keeping them together with needlepoints,
BRACKET
IN
FRETWORK.
FRONT VIEW.
In the
shelf, the
fret
underneath the
54i
may be saw
cuts
the latter
OQOOO
FIG. 5.
keeping with the fret- work. When these have been all
being
much on
down
FULL
SIZE.
or to
let it
Lay the
exactly
carefully
on the spot it is to occupy, and put a board above it at once with a weight on it, and do not move it till it has had
time to set thoroughly, when the
of course, be on the edge of the shelf has a good hold, extending right up to the top edge of the shelf; sometimes this fret is put on projecting up instead of down, which may be, with In the top some, preferable. corners of the glass there is a other pieces
will,
added.
The
fret
little
This
the
course,
come out
of the rebate
made to receive
put in
in
its
the glass.
When
and bracket
complete the job. This bracket might be made of two different woods, the fret
one kind and the background to the fret of another; but beware
of having too great a contrast.
I have seen boxwood and black walnut used together, and the result was far from satisfactory,
2.
BRACKET IN FRETWORK.
SIDE VIEW.
between the woods. If the amateur were making this in pine and 'staining it, he could easily give the fret a second coat of stain, which would give something of the effect of two woods being used.
trast
542
tVA YS
AND
MEAN'S.
act better if the bottle
is
and 2
kept
warm
whilst in use, as
As
till
now
now
let it
dry as
far as
No.
and 2 are
them are
Paper Slides for the Magic Lantern. Procure a coloured print the size required for your lantern. The
colours used on the print must be
otherwise, get another
;
No.
3 will dry in a
When
the picture
thus treated
transparent
colours
wood
free
is
If
it
;
be found that
also, at the
all
the surface
cardboard, or
stiff
be
Gum
quite
tight
over the
opening.
gum on
same time apply the varnish to the other side, which ought to add a further lustre to the picture. When quite dry which requires a lew days and plenty of air gum on the frame some pieces of cardboard, as shown at A, A, A, in Fig. 3, aswhen packed together any damp or warmth might make them stick, and being
not glazed, do
over again
thus protected
it
it
makes a
better transparency.
after
If
your
framing
it
sand-paper
water-colours afterwards.
make
I
a good effect.
Comic
slips
in
fact,
any
can be imitated
in
paper
have
may
Get a
The
reservoir
is
from
this process.
large
number of
may be
No.
I
carried
I
or sent
damage.
penetrates
it
thoroughly.
No.
Figs. 1
PAPER SLIDES FOR MAGIC LANTERN. and 2. Mounts for Prints. Fig. 3. Mode of Protecting Prints. Fig. 4. Lantern with Duplex Lamp.
makes a good
a
[C]
Take
small
brass disk about f in. across with a hole in centre (they are
and
lay
it
ori
a thick piece of
on thick paper.
The
sheets of
German
long
make
it,
comic
each
it
is
driven
down
further,
it
now drop on top a bead of solder, round with the soldering iron until top is covered
with solder.
it is
When
cold
file
up the
in a
point.
If
many
are
by hand
all
the
last
named maybe
quicker to
make them
row and
so solder the
[G. S. A.]
taste.
clean
See that the frame and picture is quite dry and now get Canada Balsam and mix with it turpentine
:
of
For No.
I,
part
2,
Canada
2 parts
together,
Canada Balsam, 2 parts Terrebene, I part Boiled Linseed Oil. The above mixtures should be used only in a warm room. No. 3, I part Canada Balsam, 3 parts Chloroform.
These
I all
quicklime to
It
of our readers
to
know how
I
I accomplished this
desideratum.
In the
require to be
mixed
in
wide glass-stoppered
its
bottles.
house that
will
have given three processes, but each one has meet the requirements of any picture.
merits and
when
in a
back room
Now
pour a
the
own medium) on
am
aware,
is
perfectly original
I
is
back of the framed picture (not the front, as the coloured matter must be attached from behind to prevent the paper
of the knocker
which
and
itself,
just
becoming
neutral),
finger rub
it
behind
this
hammered
I
brass I
No.
made
a bent spring
One end
of the spring
screwed
NOTES ON NO VELTIES.
to the door inside, to the other end I fastened,
right angles, a piece of | inch iron wire
543
by riveting
at
(\v)
sufficient in
Fastening Labels on Tin. Common gum-arabic, makes the best mucilage. It should be made pretty thick, and a lump of washing soda \ inch in
dissolved in water,
J inch
to spare.
it
The
and
reason
may be
needed.
make
labels
To
the brass
but
it
stains the
I
tin.
Another
end of a
I
part by weight of
gum
two wires
e'ectric
lead
to
an
bell
and
is
battery.
The gum is powdered and the glycerine added. The water is slowly added, while the mass is rubbed down until it forms a smooth paste. Varnish forms a good medium
water.
for sticking labels to metals of
The
any kind.
contrivance
the knocker
iron wire
is
when
the
is
raised
forced out by
NOTES
Y
first
ON NOVELTIES.
this
the spring,
duty
omission, and
best
to
a sin of
it
in the
of course, rings
the knocker
way
IT.
can.
When
noticing
the bell.
is at
When
its
Journal
" The by
rest,
weight forces
Mr.
the iron wire inwards, and with it the spring, and breaks
name
the price.
I
As
my
is
contact, and
ring.
I
bell
ceases to
" The
at 9s.
about
monthly
parts,
at
7d.,
and
I
in
yearly
spring
is
not
made
too strong,
last,
Colchester, says
must overbalance the strength of the spring, otherwise the contact would be constant instead of only being made when the knocker is raised. This arrangement does away with.
the troublesome job, for an amateur,
of drilling the stone-
We
we can
It is
$.
the
we hope to sell them at what many amateurs want." I have not heard
it
is,
as
I
work of the
doorway,
Manager
it
says,
a thing that
Emery Wheel
be used
in the
v. Grindstone. An emery hone may same way as an ordinary rough stone for It cuts
mention
want.
my
readers to the
coarse grinding.
very
fast,
Company propose to provide for this The machine, when made, should be powerful enough to do much rougher work than can be managed with
Mr. A.
S.
For sharpening pocket-knives it is better than a grindstone. Experience has shown that emery is an excellent substitute
for
etc.,
297,
Hackney Road,
natural
is
stones
for
rough work.
tools
is
In general,
it
emery
found
E., sends
me
"Improved
is
grinding
is
practicable
grind
cutting
flour
without
temper.
Rouge and
to
fit
emery
article,
occupied by the
name
and
the faces of the tools, which were curved, the rouge rubbed into the wood. It is said that razors
in this
oil stone.
was cut
and the following remark: "The ordinary bench-stop, of which this is an improvement, is so well known as to need
no description
ls.
;
it
may be honed
retinning
tin
oil tin,
;
is
the best
and
way without the use of the Retinning Small Ware. The general
is
The
is Is., oi-
process of
by
post.
My readers
this is
drain
a vat or ladle of melted covered and protected by a coating of palm them, rub with tow to remove superfluous put them through a bath or " washpot " of The operation is not one which can be done
know
from, and
Mr. Lunt
me
to
and
finally
tin.
the finest
economically on a small scale. It is said that the retinning of small articles may be effected by heating them to the melting point of tin, and then rubbing them inside and out
with scraps of block a bunch of tow.
tin,
and as the engraving and the remark I have quoted do not help me in the matter, I must reseive my comments on it until I have had an opportunity of examining it. Messrs. Stevens and Co., of the " Torbay Paint Company," exclusive makers of " Calley's Torbay Paint," whose works are at Brixham, Torbay, Devon, and whose London
offices are 26, 27,
and 28,
Billiter Street,
544
specimens of
their colours,
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
accompanied by a price
list,
purpose
for
which
C.
it
was used.
No
In this price
list
is
specimens of colours manufactured by the Company, a thing which in itself is invaluable to amateurs, who are often puzzled to judge of colours, and their probable effect
E.C., better manufacturer and inventor of " Pulford's Magnetic Paint," sends a specimen form of a " Railway
Pulford, 77,
Cannon
known
the
when
oil
laid on,
The
block sketch books, for the use of railway travellers, the forms to be collected at the more important stations along
the line for transmission to their destination. well worth consideration, as
it
the form of "paste," which requires the addition of boiled or turps, or a mixed
oil
supplied by the
Company,
in
The
idea
is
would
afford facilities
to
The
business men,
commercial
travellers,
etc.,
for transacting
60s. in paste,
and from
sent
out,
journey for announcing their safe arrival, etc.; and this has
are
being
for
the
most
part
3s.
per
Signal
is
red,
however,
brilliant
at
and
beautilul
H. Cussons and
Co., 79,
U2s, per
ready
cwt., while
have
just
to
be useful
title
golden brown
ivory
white,
the
same
price in
both forms
for
to
amateur
photographers,
under
Art
the
of
38s.
paste,
and
44s.
"The
of
use
lemon
;
yellow
55s. in paste, and 48s. and orange 60s. in paste, and 50s. " Torbay Paint" I mention the
Guide and
and
Practice
illus-
Modern
Dry
Plate
Photography,
now
I
in order to
draw
attention to
it,
and acknow-
When
H. T. Ellerbeck, late President of the Liverpool Amateur Photographic Society. The price of the book, which is 7 J in. by
trated with woodcuts,
by
J.
4J
for
in.,
The
but
at
I do not gather from the prospectus the prices which they are supplied in smaller quantities.
tisements, costs
The
tools
author
is
tells
us in
his
to teach a novice
how
to
The Indestructible Paint Company (Limited), 27, Cannon Street, E.C., noticing some remarks that were made in " Amateurs in Council," in the July
Magazine on the Solution " Browning's Colourless Preservative Solution" that is manufactured by them for coating stone, etc., and prepart of this
he requires, to under-
how
that
it
avoid them."
in
its
fifteen
upon everything
cannot
or
is
fail
to
be
know and to beware of, and useful to anyone who has commenced,
art.
serving
it
me some
J-
For amateur carpenters, I have something to say about a handy little novelty that has been sent
good
me by
persons
tested
it.
These particu-
be sent to any applicant who may wish to apply the solution to any stone work or brick work requiring protection from the weather.
lars will doubtless
panying
in
illustration,
NEW HANDLE
FOR BRADAWLS,
on account of
pies so
little
it
occu-
When
etc.,
the
solu-
tion hardens
to rain even in
The
cost
is 6s.
when compared with the number The handle, with 12 of handled bradawls that it represents. bradawls of different sizes, is sold for is. 2d. Each bradawl,
space,
and
two coats
ficial
One
fertile
whether large or small, has a square shank, which fits into the iron heading to the handle, the end of the shank appearing through the
illustration.
miserable way in which they by the bricklayer or mason, and the wretched quality of the mortar used, chinks and crannies being left between the bricks, etc., both in the interior of the wall, and the external surface through which the wet percolates, finding its way in due time to the plaster within. I recommend anyone who is contemplating using this or any other solution of the kind, to have his walls well pointed before using the solution. I have heard disappointment expressed because the desired results had not followed the use of a
cause of
damp
in walls is the
shown
in
the
have been
built
The bradawls
and are
kept well in place by the resistance offered by the wood into which the blade is thrust. If the shank sticks into the
socket too tightly to be pulled out with the fingers,
it
can
be expelled by thrusting another of the bradawls into the Here, then, we have twelve hole, and using it as a lever.
tools in the space that
is
The
same idea might be carried out for gimlets, chisels, gouges, and all tools that are handled as these are, causing great
gain to those
solution
but
am
it
was caused by
unfit for the
who
increased
portability.
To
wood
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
AMATEURS
IN COUNCIL.
towns throughout the kingdom. A little showing by a competent hand is wonderfully to an amateur, tnd I strongly recommend those who are near enough to Mr. Syer s school to put in on appearance there, from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. in the evening on Mondays and "Wednesdays, to tike advantage of the assistance that he is able and ready to render them.
helpful
[The Editor reserves to himself the right of refusirg a reply to any question that may be frivolous or inappropriate, or devoid of general interest. Correspouderjts are requested to bear in mind that their queries will be answered only in the pages of ihe Magazine, 'he information sought being supplied for the benefit of its readers generally as well as for those who have a special interest in obtaining It. In no case can any reply be sent by post-]
545
time in this Magazine. So many excellent works are to be found to aid the self-taught in painting in oils, that it has been thought
unnecessary to treat of this in Amateur "Work, unless in connection with, and reference to, special subjects. Excellence in painting proceeds from a natural gift in the
Interchange of Supplements for Parts XXI. ana XXIIL The Publishers have requested me to
express their regret that owing- to an unfortunate mistake on the part of the binder, the Supplement containing "Working Drawings of the Fancy Jardiniere, which was intended to accompany Part XXIII., was stitched up with Part XXI., and the greater part of the Edition sent out before the error was discovered. Notice has already been given to as many readers and subscribers as possible of the mistake that has been made, and the only way to remedy it as far as it is possible to do so, is to say that the Supplement in illustration of the " Combination Saw Stand " will be presented with Part XXIII. for October, in which will be found the description of the " Fancy Jardiniere " that was unintentionally issued with Part XXI. for August.
Bench Holdfast.
E. "W. (Richmond) writes: I have always seen the Bench Holdfast described in books in the same way as it is by E. H. B., It seems to me, however, that the p. 399. principle is misunderstood, and that, as drawn, the tool would have no holding power whatever. The annexed diagram explains what I believe to be the true theory. A blow on the head at a, drives the tool home, causing it to jamb against the hole in the bench at b and c. It is usually said to jamb at the two points directly opposite to these. Owing to the leverage of the long arm, any tendency of the work e to rise, throws the tool backwards towards f, thereby increasing the pressure at b and c.
combined and supplemented by is not everybody who took a fancy to painting in oils that would eventually he capable of painting a table, and getting five pounds for it when painted. There is not a very large public that can indulge in purchases of this kind, and for all productions of this class by amateurs
first place,
practice.
It
the
difliculty is to find a market. The writer of the paper to which you allude was exceptionally fortunate. 2. The second portion of your letter will be answered in another part of this section of the Maga-
A Sale and Exchange Column was started in Amateur "Work a little time ago, but it did not find favour, and was therefore discontinued. As you are living in the States, I do not see much hope of getting an offer for your clarionet in this country. Tou will, I am of opinion, have a far better chance of selling or exchanging it where you are. You wish to make an exchange for some good instrument. Tou have not taken the matter of carriage into
zine.
account for an interchange of instruments and the risk of loss or damage in transit.
to
me
opened for the Michaelmas term on "Wednesday, September 26, 1883, at the workshops, Finsbury Square Building*, ChLweU Street, E.C., by the Principal, Mr. Thomas J. Syer (Certificated, Enfield, 1875. Silver Medallist, Tottenham, 1878), assisted by competent workmen in each class. There will be classes for (1) Cabinet "Work and Carpentry; (2) Wood Carving and Engraving ; and (3) "Wood Turning and Fret Cutting. Beginners will have the necessary tools lent to them by Mr. Syer, but Btudents in the advanced classes are recommended to provide themselves with their own tools and appliances. The classes are commenced with the object of giving practical instruction to gentlemen desirous of learning the use of tools, an especial feature being that all who attend them will be taught the manufacture of various articles with the tools ordinarily used by mechanics, and without the aid of costly machinery. There will be three terms in the year, commencing ia September, January, and April, the term's fee for beginners being 1 Is., aDd for advanced students, 1 lis. 6d. The average number of lessons in a term will be twelve. The prospectus and any information required can be obtained of the Principal or of the Secretary, Mr. "W. J. Crowhcest, at the above address, or 1, Finsbury Street, Chisviell Street, E.C. I may be permitted to point out that the cost of the tools and plant required for an undertaking of this kind is considerable, and that a large number of pupils must be gathered together in order to render it remunerative to Mr. Syer. His scheme is an excellent one, and I wish ifc the success it deserves, and that he may soon find imitators in all the large
will be
BENCH HOLDFAST.
It is
distant parts of the world. I have sent your inquiry about a fretwork design for a
through their being little tendency of the work to rise, but the fact is, that the greater the tendency to rise, the stronger is the grip with which it ie held down. A blow at the back of the tool at d, by bringing the stem to the perpendicular, allows it to slip through the hole, and frees the work.
small clock-case, mentioning your wants in detail, to Messrs. Harger Brothers, Settle, Yorkshire, and they will doubtless communicate with you, though it is some distance between Yorkshire a,n& Launceston,Tasmania.
INFORMATION SUPPLIED.
French
Polishing".
Octopus Glue.
Victor writes I can quite confirm Clericus in his opinion of this article,
:
having tried
common
all.
it as size in the usual way as glue size, but it did not answer at The varnish that was usad after the
turned as if it had been put on wood covered with oil, and would not dry. Also
size
no
Saw-filing.
H. T. (Nottingham) writes : I once saw a book advertised in your Magazine on the "Art of Saw-filing," but have looked for it since and have not been able to find it. Can you tell me where to procure it ? [I am not aware that any hook on Saw- filing has been advertised in Amateur Work. Ed.]
"W.
H. S. (H-clcnoy) writes: I "beg to infoi-ul T. H. (Settle) that I find it quite easy to Trench polish fretwork. First of all fix the work flat on a piece of wood, so that you have something to catch hold of. Then follow the directions given in the article on " French Polishiugand SpiritVarnisbing," in Part VI., leaving out the filling altosandpaper gether, and substituting No. for the I'umice- stone powder, and being careful not to use the same part of the rag too long. Of course, this only applies to
work that
is
not too
fine.
Painting Tables, etc. Amateur, U.S.A. 1. In reply to your request for instructions in making and
painting or otherwise decorating small tables and other articles of furniture, I maysiy that directions for the construction of tables of various sorts, shapes, and sizes are given in "Every Man His Own Mechanic," and will be given from time to
Chemicals sends the following further reply to Light-keeper : I have tried the above experiment, and cannot get anything at all like the substance you state nothing but a nasty smelling substance remainingAnother point at which I found a difliculty, was the squeezing out the moisture in fact, with all the appliances I could command, I could not manage to do it in the manner your extract seems to point out. Should you attempt the experiment, kindly let me
;
know the
result.
54-6
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL,
lid of
Norwegian Cooking Stove. G. E. writes in reply to M. V. T. : Having either lost or mislaid my note-i on the construction of this apparatus, I inust trust
entirely to memory. Briefly described, it may he said to be a wooden hox enclosing
state
itself
the apparatus firmly dowD. In this the cooking process will complete
without
no
fail.
<
another box made of tin. The outer or wooden box may be square or oblong, deep or shallow, small or large, just as may be deemed suitable to the requirements of its owner, hut it must be strong, jointed closely and fitted with a close fitting lid. The inner or tin box should be made two inches less in length, breadth and height than the outer box, the space between the sides and the bottoms of the two boxes being closely padded with thick blanket or felt. The tin box must also have a clo^efitting lid, and th-i lid of the outer box should be so padded with felt as to fit clc->e down on the tin lid or cover when the inner box is closed. When thus constructed it forms an excellently cool cellar wherein butter, meat, etc., can be kept cool in summer. To make it suitable for a cooking apparatus it will be necessary to have the tin box made with double s-des and bottom, so as to allow a space of half an inch all nroiind, and to fit pipes or other means of filliug the space with hot water, or drawing
it off
nit let the npparatus he opened during the time required for coolcing the food. " The length of time which the different dishes should remain in the isolating apparatus varies according to their nature. It may, however, be taken as a general rule that the same time is required to complete the cooking in the apparatus as in the ordinary way ou a slow fire. "The advantages of this apparatus are thus detailed by Herr Sorensen, the patentee, whose attention was first directed to the subject by the Norwegian jteasants, who heat their food in the morning, and whilst away iu the fields keep the saucepan hot by .surrounding it with chopped hay. " 1. Economy of Fuel varies according to the length of time required for cooking the different sorts of food. For those requiring, in the ordinary way, only one hour's cooking, the saving is about 40 per cent. two hours, GO per cent. three hours, six hours, 70 per cent. In the 65 per cent
; ; ;
"By
me
whose small vessels are not generally so constructed as to enable them to procure hot food while at sea, may easily do eo, by taking out with them in the morning an
apparatus prepared before their departure. It is, in fshort, a thing for the million, for rich and poor for the domestic kitchen, as well as for persons away from their homes. It cooks and keeps food hot, just as well as when carried about on a pack-saddle, on a cart, or in a fisherman's boat, as in a coal-pit or under the kitchen table. "4. Quality and Quantity of the Food prepared. Where other plans of cooking waste one pound of meat, this apparatus properly used, wastes about an ounce. The unanimous testimony of those who have used it pronounces the flavour of food cooked in this manner incomparably superior to that which is ordinarily produced. "5. Simplicity of Use. One of the greatest advantages of this invention is, no doubt, its simplicity and practical application. There is no complication of hotwater or air pipes to retain the heat, no mechanical combination whatever for producing a high degree of heat by steampressure ; consequently there is no necessity for steam-valves, or other combinations which would render the use of the apparatus difficult and dangerous. Any person will, without difficulty, be able to use the apparatus to advantage after once having witnessed it in operation. No special arrangement is required in the kitchen for using the apxjaratus. Any fuel will do for starting the cooking. "6. In addition 1o all these advantages, the complete apparatus constitutes the Simple Refrigerator,* for the preservation of ice, which has attracted so much notice (see letters in Times, July 30th, 31st, Aur\?st 4th, 1S68), and had such warm approval from medical men. 'It will keep ice in small quantities for many days.' "The author of the above says: 'One of the most interesting novelties displayed in the department devoted to Norway, in the French Exhibition of 1S67, was the Self-Acting Norwegian Cooking Apparatus, constructed in the most timple manner, of a wooden box lined with four inches of felt, in which the saucepans containing the food, previously boiled and maintained at the boiling-point for five or ten minutes, according to the nature of the food to be cooked, are placed. The heated saucepans are covered with a thick felt cover, and, the lid of the box being fastened down, the rest of the cooking is done by slow digestion, no more heat being added. "The heated vessels containing the food will retain a high temperature for several hours, so that a dinner put into the apparatus at 8 o'clock in the morning, would be quite hot and ready by 5 o'clock in the afternoon, and would keep hot up to 10 or 12 o'clock at night, because the felt clothing so completely prevents the escape of the heat; and as the whole is enclosed in a box, there are no currents of air to carry off any other heat by convection."
;
when
ed in block tin are also made to fit the interior of the tin box. Now, to cook a Sunday's diuner, you have only to partly roast or boil the meat by the ordinary means and also to pour boiliug water on the vegetables contained in the special vestels, then fill up the hollow space inside the jacket of the tin box with boiling water, put the meat,
vegetables, etc., in their several places in the apparatus, close the lids securely and
'
the cooking will go on inside, whilst you are absent from home, with the certainty that the dinner will be hot whenever you return, and that the meat will not be dried, burnt, or overdone. L. M. T. D. (Glasgow) sends the following extract from Professor Pepper's "Cyclopaedic ircienco Simplified," for the information of M. V. T. " The principle on which this cooking apparatus acts, is that of retaining the heat and it consists of a heatretainer, or isolating apparatus, shaped something like a refrigerator, and of oue or more saucepans or other cooking-vessels made to fit into it. "Whereas in the ordinary way of cooking, the fire is necessarily kept up during the whole of the time required for completing the cooking process; the same result is obtained, in using this apparatus, by simply giving the food a start of a few niinntei' boiling, the rest of the cooking being completed by itself in the heat-retainer away from the fire alto:
box
case of gas being used, the saving would be greater still. "2. Economy of Labour. A few minutes* boiling is sufficient. No fire is necessary afterwards. The cooking-pot once in the apparatus, the cooking will complete itself. Over-cooking is simply impossible, and the process of cooking is infallible in its results. The focd will be cooked in about the same time as if fire had been continuously used But the food need not be eaten for many hours after the cooking process is complete ; so that half-an-hour's use of a fire on a Saturday night, for cxanrple, will give a smoking-hot dinner on Sunday. " 3, Portability. The weight of the apparatus, complete, varies from eighteen to
gether.
"Directions for Use. Put the food intended for cooking with the water or other fluid,
the saucepan, and place it on the it boil, and when on the point of if required. This done, replace the lid of the saucepan firmly, and let it continue boiling for a few minutes. After the expiration of these few minutes, take the saucepan off the fire, and place it immediately into the isolating apparatus, cover it carefully with the cushion, and fasten the
cold, into
fire.
Make
boiling,
skim
pounds. The apparatus can, in proportion to its dimensions, be carried about with great facility, without interfering with the cooking process. By means of a large apparatus, for instance, following on a cart a detachment of soldiers on the march, it is possible to provide them with a hot meal at any moment it might be found convenient, as may be proved by official reports from the officers of the Royal Guard at Stockholm, in the possession of the patentee. "Again, fishermen, pilots, and others,
fifty
Ivory. M. (London) suggests that H. A. D. (Belfast) should use chloride of lime made
C. J.
into a paste.
AMATEURS IN
Liquid Damp-Froof Glue. Chesucus writes : J. B. (Jubbulpore) will find the following very good. Mix -t
parts of treacle with 12 parts of water bj weight, and add 1 part of quicklime ; heat to about 150 degrees Fahr., and after-
COUNCIL.
547
gouges various sizes, a brogue, an ordinary gauge, and a few small blocks of hardwood to fix the brogue in when using
wards macerate for 2 or 3 da_\s with frequent agitation. Then decant from the
undissolved lime. The solution has the consistence of mucilage. By adding to this solution about a quarter its weight of glue with about 2 or 3 per cent, of glycerine, a strong and waterproof glue will
exactly as a stain," but will make a very good black enamel. Mix sufficient finely powdered and sieved gas-black with wood naphtha, to make the mixture of the consistency of cream, add sufficient shellac to make it stick, but not enough to give a glossy appearance if a dead-black is required.
be formed
H.
An
it
J
Fig. 2.
as a cutter. Whether the moulding be an outside or an inside curve, or whether the curve be round or oval, or a combination, the method is essentially the same. Commence gauging and by planing your wood up nearly the finished size, theu chalk the ends and draw the moulding with ahard sharp pencil, as in Fig.
1.
excellent varnish which dries in a few seconds, and produces a colourless, smooth,
prepared from the following ingredients Sandarac, 53 parts oil of mastic, 20 parts; camphor, 1 part
is
:
Gauge
on a bar
to
legs at back, a is the fan driven by cord from flywheel to small pulley on fan as spindl;, shown in ticked
line3.
is
The flywheel
on
a
carried
through the cross straps shown in end at back of hearth. The fan is secured
to a plate fastened to the legs. The flywheel is 18 inches in diameter, and the fan 8 inches, with four arms and vanes, each 2 inches by 2 inches, and the small p alley being 2 inches in diameter, wiil easily run at -Front 1000 revolutions per minute. The hearth may be made of T\ sheet iron riveted to the leg?, which may be of angle iron 1* inch by 1\ by T% inch, e is the pipe leading blast to the iron. I hope the above will assist T. "W. If it is not sufficiently comprehensive, I shall be happy to furnish any further information within my power. The illustrations are drawn on the scale of 1 inch to a foot.
with chisels The and gouges. grooves are cut by usiug the brogue n the manner shown in Fig. 2. "When all the grooving and checking has been done you may proceed to finish it carefully with chisels and gouges, and
fully
working
in
cross-
and
Elevation.
gouges
sideset-
ways on the
SMALL PORTABLE
;
Fig 2. End Elevation at Back of Fire. stone so as to them scrape rather FORGE? than cut.
Effect of Zinc
J.
make
lavender, 8 parts Venice turpentine, 4 parts ether, 6 parts ; methylated spirit, 40 parts. The ingredients must be macerated for wesks, until everything is dissolved.
;
on Hot Coals.
Circular Mouldings. (Eeidlerj) will perhaps find the following to answer as well as the tool he enquires about. No special tools are required, and with a little pains and
E.
W.
Chemiccs writes
j
(Oldham) writes in reply to H. B. : I have frequently noticed, when emptying into the stove fire, the refuse oxidised matter from a ladle, in which zinc has been melted, that every vestige of soot disappears, as if by magic, from the inside of the stove, and as far up the pipe as can he seen. The refuse burns with beautiful colours, and gives out thick white fumes, which deposit on cold surfaces exposed to them.
L.
E.
has
Dissolve the dye in the boilthen add other ingredients. When ccld it is ready for use. The cost of 3 ounces of the above ink will be less than
treacle,
\
oz.
Rebrowning Gun Barrels. Gkaham writes for the information of C. J. M.: Some time since I was away shooting among my guns was one with
;
ing water,
Fig.
r.
sixpence.
patience an excellent job can be made. The tools needed are a few chisels and
bright barrels. I wished to brown them, but could not get any mixture for the purpose nearer than forty miles I therefore varnished them with Ibbotsou's Oak Stain (Dark)
;
548
and what was put on a makeshift has remained ever since. If I had taken a little
AMATEURS IN
refer to
COUNCIL.
Thelettera
If
same parts
more care in putting it on, it would look better but not be more useful.
Polishing Horn.
the cork can be got sound, and of sufficient length, I would advise A, W. to keep it
Amateur's Cheap Lathes. Conscientious Turner wishei to know if he can purchase anywhere a better or cheaper amateur's lathe than that sold by
Sonnentbal, Queen Victoria the "Victoria," price 17 10s. [I am not acquainted with the "Victoria" Lathe, and therefore I cannot venture to express any opinion on it at the present moment, but I may say that excellent lathes may be obtained at lower prices from various makers. At the same time the requirements of the person who is to use the lathe must be borne in mind. A cheap lathe that would suit a beginner' would not be suitable for a turner who was gaining experience in the art, and who would require a more expensive one. Will any correspondent report on the "Victoria" Lathe ? Ed].
Messrs. Selig
Strset, E.C.,
&
Willing to Help sends the following E. B. to polish horn : Get some pieces
ly
;
called
to
then take some fine sand-paper, and give a good rubbing. If any ridges appear, asthey will do if not most carefully scraped, give them a touch with tbe glass. Then take a
slightly greasy woollen rag, a little dry whit-
and a good supply of elbow grease, and rub again and again until you are satisfied with tbe polish, when the horns will be finished. It will be found that the cutting edges of the glass require constant renewal. This is done as follows Take a file, and press it with the chest against anything that will hold it firmly. Take a piece of glass in both bands, turn tbe glass away from you, and run it lightly, but sharply, down the edge of the file, reverse tbe glass on the file so as to bring tbe top towards you, pull down bard with both hands. It will come asunder, and give fresh cutting edges.
ing,
:
HOOKAH.
Fig. 1. Hookah complete; Fig. 2. Hookah in sec3. Fig. tion
;
pipe
Fig.
4.
Indian hookah.
useful
when
for
staining the new parts to match tbe old. The polish will not mix well together, but when about to use it, shake tbe bottle well.
have used it myself, and bo can recomit. This recipe is valuable, and the only polish approved of by the late Sir Gilbert Scott, and was used in all the churches restored by him.
I
mend
Hookah.
L. M. T. D. (Glasgow) sends the following information, and the accompanying Bketcbe3 for A. W. {Leeds) : Fig. 1 shows hookah complete. a is a special meerschaum bowl, d is a turned piece of wood to fit bowl, and left long enough to go
into cork c. c a good, sound, tight-fitting cork, t a glass tube about J inch diameter, fitted into bottom of d, and of such a length
as to be about l inch above bottom of water-bottle, vase, etc g. t a small piece
,
-".
,:.r
projecting above neck of bottle, as shown by dotted line in Fig. 2. If air getB into vessel, and smoke does not come through tube in sufficient quantity, the top of the cork must be varnished, or have a coat of india-rubber varnish.
of tube (glass) J inch diameter, put through cork, and projecting about 4 inch under
INFORMATION SOUGHT.
Impressions of Ferns,
:
cork, s is the "snake" or tube (indiarubber j'jths or i inch diameter) attached to t. B the mouthpiece. Water in bottle Bbould always be about 3 inches below end of tube t and should be renewed frequently as it soon gets discoloured. Fig. 2 is a Fig. 3 shows pillar d section of Fig. 1. adapted to an ordinary pipe, the mouthpiece being unscrewed, the bowl may be screwed on to face of pillar, instead of inserting whole stem cf pipe, as sketched. Fig. 4 shows the hookah, as commonly used in India, a, burnt clay bowl, d, turned woe den pillar, c, cocoa-nut shell. b, bamboo mouthpiece. Water, of course,
;
etc.
Can anyone inform me how E. C. writes I can take impressions of ferns, leaves, etc., on paper, and whether special paper is required or not ?
space to articles on subjects that are useful to the many. B. G. W. A paper on the subject you mention is in preparation, but has not yet reached my hands. Jack Horner. I am sorry you should have taken the trouble to write about so trifling a matter. It was necessary for me to take advantage of your previous strictures to put things in a proper light before the readers of the Magazine.
Vane.
H.
S.
(Hacfcney)
writes: I should be
obliged if you, or one of your readers, would give me directions how to make a vane, with one of those figures that swing their arms about. Is there any other way but the usual (arrow) system of keeping them to the wind ?
Communications received and unavoidably held over. A Poor Man, J. Sandwell^. J. S. (CMsea), Harger Brothers, G. P. (Gateshead), Anxious, A. F. S. (I>re8 den), J. W. C. (Henuicfc), H. C. S., Victor,
H.
S.,
E. C. D., G. F. (Hereford),
J. S.
FEW HANDY
TOOLS,
.U9
hand than
brace for
is
make a
much
LVKm.
than is charged at a tool shop. The pressure frame consists of an upright bar, from which projects
a horizontal
is astonishing how few amateur workshops contain efficient drilling and screwing apparatus yet of all mechanical
;
arm
arm passes
a screw to act
is
carried on.
very geneto
How much of this can we hunt up among the odds and ends of the workshop, or obtain for a shilling or two at the nearest ironmonger's,
store
?
relegated
the
or
old
iron
lathe, which,
very
fit
Jn these days
is
chine
to
small
drills, is, at best, but a poor contrivance for the purpose, owing to the
BpB
when gas
towns,
iron,
used, even
gas
pipes
of
difficulty
of holding, in
As long
such
it
as the
latter is of
size
and and
you
able
may
for
see
many
shape that
can be held
pressure
by
the
fingers,
handle
subjected
to
now under
tion.
considera-
and
simplest
that
method,
are
so
now
drill
self-centring
have no catalogue
chucks
by
me
of very
recent
of
readily obtained.
But,
T-pieces
list
very
frequently,
efficient
some
of
is
more
mode
work
a large
manufacturing
as
follows
I
:
securing
the
chemist
is.
needed
tion,
it it
and
if,
in addi-
inch
is
is
that
diameter;
inch bore;
2d. with
9>d.,
inch.
to
The
A HANDY HOME-MADE DRILLING APPARATUS FOR AMATEURS.
;
pipe
is
sd.
76.
sition,
apparatus then becomes highly desirable. Now, to take up, say Churchill's Catalogue, is to make an amateur's mouth water. Therefore put it aside. and let us see what can
A, Vertical Bar; B, Socket to hold Bar (Plan) ; C, Socket in elevation; - shaped, L - shaped, D, D, Sliding Socket on Bar, with Screw to hold Brace G, Pipe con. , .. , j neeting Sockets D, D E, Bench; F, Iron Brace; H, Plug with Straight, With both ends Flange ; K, L, M, Drilh, ; N, Vice. similar, and also of the
. . ;
same shape, but with one end larger than the other. These are called diminishing sockets. I fancy the price
here statedishigherthan that askedattheironmonger's.
be managed
little
in
the
home workshop, by
help of a
made
in brass.
ingenuity and patience. will first of all arrange a simple pressure frame for use with an ordinary hand-brace, which latter, I may remark, is a tool of real use, and far too much neglected by
We
we
shall
many
come
in exceedingly well
and can often be used as subI propose to make such use of hand. For the upright bar a bit
amateurs on account of
its
apparent clumsiness.
The
it
practical mechanic, on the other hand, would make one of his first purchases. The village blacksmith,
them
of
1
for the
work
in
it
may be
sv
from 2
serve
;
A
but, as the
FEW HANDY
Perhaps
affair is
will
TOOLS,
2 feet
6 inches will
whole
to
and
very
fit
prove a
vice bench,
rest
on the bench
difficult job.
Of
and the
above
1
while the jaws of the leg vice stand up 3 or 4 inches The size being it, a 3-foot length will be better.
inch bore will afford a good strong bar,
1
arm, as well as the upright pedestal, can be of solid bar if preferred. A blacksmith will readily forge the
lot
;
its
outside
its
nut have to be
being
inch or more.
The
9d.
made
that
and
is
fore, not
more than
is.
We
now
require a T-piece
it
them
if
which
it.
but without
much
play upon
The
often use-
can mount the I inch bore T-piece in the lathe, and bore it so as just to cut out the screw threads, when it will be exactly what is needed and as these gas threads are very shallow, sufficient metal
;
We
lessly prolonged.
readily
is
needed, but
projecting so as to endanger
is
remain to prevent the socket from bursting out when under the strain that will come upon it. But if we have any doubt about this, we can substitute a T-piece a size larger and leave the threads, as this will slide up and down without being bored out at all. In this case (and it is always well to err upon the side
will still
arm during
use.
often itself
arm
amateurs' work.
The
of strength)
alike,
i.e.,
I should advise a T-piece with both ends but with the stem of the T-piece a size smaller, 1
and screw B, to support the upper end of the pedestal, is shown as intended to pass through the
wall, but
may be made
it
with merely a
flat
plate drilled
of
inch bore
the
Ij inch.
The tendency
is let
is
not to dispbee
wall.
Into
this, at
The
any desired part of the upright bar (pipe). This ought to present no difficulty to an amateur, as he can do but little indeed if he cannot drill and tap a hole, and fit a screw
into
it.
bench as
plate to
shown, or
but
if
is
gas-pipe
We now
require a bit of
article,
the simplest
here.
way
is
to let
it
bench as
The
drawn
how
far
shorter
is
it
will
prevent the
knuckles,
when
main objects of this article is to show workshop fittings. It is cheaper than solid bar, and quite stiff enough for many such purposes as the above and when the ends are
One
of the
fore suffice.
One end
needed
to
be
solid,
steel,
screw
pipe,
latter.
will
iron, or brass.
which
slides
on the upright
should be
made
and
I
will
am
made
very tight, as
screwed
a
at
length,
i.e.,
you
enough
is
can
get, therefore,
9 inches long,
When
the vice
not used,
is
of course
swung round
six shillings
if not,
you must
so as to be over the
will, I think,
bench
itself.
fit
Five or
screw (or get it done at the gasfitters). This screw is for the attachment of another 1 inch T-piece, and it is to fit the stem of the T so that it shall stand perpendicular to the arm, and vertito cut a
cally.
do your best
quite suffice to
up
this drill-post
comit
plete.
in question,
The drawing
will
make
all
this clear.
Now
may be as well to add a few words about The amateur who possesses that most useful
the
drills.
appliance,
work
inside the
but the size of the bore is too big, and if were not, the thread is only cut about inch inside both ends of the piece. It is necessary, therefore, to plug the part with an iron or brass plug, of which a nut can be made by boring and tapping. It will be necessary, therefore, to consider what will be likely to prove the easiest. If, however, the amateur can himit
a portable forge, will have no difficulty, after a little practice, in making his own drills; and if he has no
forge but a fireplace in which he can
fit
a blower
fire),
(I
mean merely
he
may, with a little contrivance, do the same. Steel must not be heated to anything like a white heat, and
therefore a forge
sity.
is
HOW TO MARE A
the steel
MAGNETO-ELECTRIC MACHINE.
very slight force to keep them up to their work.
therefore do not strain the mandrel, or bring
55'
They
undue
when heated, and also a pair of smith's tongs and a heavy hand-hammer. Very great heat can be got out of an ordinary fireplace by means of one of the above blowers if it is made to come down to the bottom, bar. In many cases brass can be melted, and
small jobs of brazing done, but for the latter an open forge fire is far preferable on account of the difficulty
of getting work placed properly in an ordinary grate.
it.
brace these
reason
if ever,
drills
some
seldom,
now
even
in the
generally
workshops of amongst
=-==-$=--=
For small
bit of iron
can
difficulty exists.
HOW
for drills
a few square bars which can be easily and accurately fitted to the taper-hole in the brace. This can be done wholly by filing, though it saves the file to heat and hammer the steel to something near the required taper. This is the first thing to be done, and the next is to heat and draw down the bar to the required size, and then to spread the end. The forging will be like K the finished drill like L. The end is to be square, as shown by the dotted lines, unless some special job should need a more acute point- Very small drills are often pointed, but for work needing a cranked brace the square end is correct. Of course the sides the
far better to get
GEORGE EDWINSON,
I
of good
steel,
HEN
tric
drew up
my
of electric machines,
intended to have
embodied a description
fiats
are
machines and electro-motors, the construction of which might reasonably be supposed to be within the means and ability of amateur workmen. In devoting a single article to the description of a magnetoelectric machine I shall deviate but little from my original plan, for, in that I intended to have led my
readers from the construction of a simple useful machine up to the details of more complicated and larger
and then, when the end is squared off, as shown, the two cutting edges are bevelled off to complete the tool. And here again a great mistake is made. These
edges are bevelled off a great deal too high. They should merely escape rubbing. It does not add to their sharpness to make them of a long bevel, and they are exactly the same in principle as a cutting tool
for the lathe.
machines, and I can think of no better beginning than the attempt to make such a machine as that detailed in There this article and the sketches accompanying it. is but little difference in principle between any of the forms of machines used in the generation of galvanic
electricity, since all
Looking
is
no
magnets
sharper than
no need
is
L, but is simply weaker. There is also spread the metal, by hammering, wider than absolutely necessary. It should be just enough
conversely, the
movement
to
spread to
let
magnets, to generate an electric current. When permanent magnets are used in their construction the machines are termed magneto-electric machines
The
made of round iron, like M, the metal being very slightly spread at the point, and the main shank running parallel for some distance,
best shaped drills are
are
so
made
create
currents, the
but the older form will answer very well for general work and if anything better is needed, there are the
;
heads on purpose
the latter as
is
machines, because for distinction the current is supposed to be generated by the motive power imparted to the machine. But, as a matter of fact,
electric
To watch
made
commonly made and used, the wonder can be made with sufficient accuracy
most unimportant
the
tool,'
that a hole
named
dynamo-electric machines,
for
even the
made and used with twist drills, very excellent work can be done. It is also a powerful tool, and will save a great deal of wear and tear of
but
if
nicely
the lathe.
When
the latter
is
by
easily fitted
any that will merit the definition, since all depend on moving masses of iron, or movements of coils of wire in the presence of masses of iron, for their usefulness, and it is well known that iron always holds some Without stopping to traces of residual magnetism. quote how or by whom the property was discovered and applied, I will say at once that it is well known, that when a piece of iron is made to move within the influence of a magnet, the magnet makes, as it were,
55*
HOW TO MAKE
fro,
if
A MAGNETO-ELECTRIC MACHINE.
induced currents, the laws which govern them, nor their general
characteristics; suffice
it
passes to and
the
and
piece
of
wound
that
is
known
known
magnets
current
property
to
of
an
is
induce a
electricity
of
in a coil of wire
wound
The
the
on an armature moved
within their influence,
impulse
regulated
by
has been
sufficient
utilized
in
strength of the
net,
generating currents of
intensity to
flash
of
convolutions
through
beings,
the
wire
its
brought
within
influence, together
human
cause
shocks.
electric
and
with
the rapidity
to
is
of
the
those
peculiar
sensations
he:e
named
the armature.
This property of magnetism to cause a current of electricity in a coil of wire, is termed its " inductive influence," and the current of electricity
chine,
before us
therefore
and
its
use
is
to
send a series of
electrical
is termed an induced current. All currents of electricity possess this property, and exert an induc-
thus caused,
and
of such a machine
is
is
shown
;
on all conducting bodies contiguous to those which convey the currents. We cannot stay now to inquire into the causes of
tive influence
Fig.
i,
represented as en-
closed in a
mahogany
which
is
and key
and
at Fig. 2,
References to
Letters
Fig.
2.
in
A, Armature.
B, Bobbins.
C, Contact Break.
~^
D, Driving Wheel.
Studs to connect Shock-
) ing Handles.
G, GroovedWheel.
H, Driving Handle.
K, Armature Knob.
M, Magnet.
S,
Spring connecting
with
spindle of coils.
FlG.
IN BOX,
SHOWING ALL
ITS
HOW TO MAKE
A MAGNETO-ELECTRIC MACHINE.
553
FIG. 9.
FIG..
THE MAGNET. 10. RELATIVE SIZE OF COIL BOEtlNS AND THEIR CORES TO
FULL
SIZE.
554
its
HOW TO MAKE
A MAGNETO-ELECTRIC MACHINE.
the other end must be stripped
in
The machine itself permanent magnet M, 8 inches long, with legs i inch wide by inch thick; the price of such a magnet will be from 6s. to 6s. 6d., and is best when bought of makers or vendors, for an amateur cannot easily make one; nor can he get such good results from a home-made magnet. The next most important parts are the two bobbins, B B, shown in section and in detail at Figs. 3, 4, 5, and 6. These are made up of the core-holder (Fig. 4), and F in section (Fig. 3) the cores, c and C 2 the bobbins, B 1 and B 2 the contact spindle, E, the insulated spindle, D, and a piece of brass tube, A. The coreholder is shown full size it may be of cast iron, cast and turned to the form shown, cr it may be made out of a piece of wrought iron of the form shown Fig. 8 in this case a driving pulley will have to be fitted on the contact spindle, and this firmly fixed in the corehold-, r. The cores are made out of best round iron -fa inch in diameter, turned and screwed at cne end and fitted into the core-holder, as s-hown. On these cores are fitted two bobbins of turned iron, ij; inch in
construction and arrangement.
consists of a
;
a similar manner,
now
be described. It will be noticed that the core-holder F is bored through with a hole f inch in diameter. This hole must be tapped to receive the screwed end
of a piece of brass tube, length if inch, fitted tightly with a steel spindle E this is '.he contact spindle, the
;
end of
this spindle is
shown
fitted
in
clevat on at Fig.
5,
and turned.
Having
should be
filled
up
If
filled
up with a wooden
will
be best
to
fit
shown by the deeply-shaded part in the sketch. A hole must now be bored through the ebonite and into the plug to receive the end of the spindle D this must be done with great nicety and
tube, as
;
the
if
the
in
centre
of
the
two
spindles
not
exactly
filed
or planed
true
and the bodies of the bobbins should be well covered with melted shellac, and then filled with No.
34 or 36 silk-covered copper wire legularly wound on.
each other an eccentric or wobbly motion will be given to the bobbins. It will now be seen that this spindle is insulated from all other parts
line with
To do
this, mount the bob! ins inside end to inside end on a mandrel, or on a spindle secured in a lathe small holes should have been bored near the edges of the inside flanges, and a small groove cut with the file for each of the fLinges from the holes down to the body of each bobbin. The hole is to take the starting end of the wire, and the groove is to receive the wire
;
by the ebonite and the wood. We must now bore a small slanting hole through the ebonite plug, bring one outer end of the wire from one of the bobbins through this hole; bare the end of the wire, clean this and the spindle with a scrap of emery cloth, wind the bare end of the copper wire around the spindle two or three turns, and put on a drop of solder to secure it in contact. A strip of velvet passed around both coils and sewn between them will impart a finished
appearance.
Before
therefore pass 6 inch.es of the wire through one of the holes, secure it there with a drop of sealing-wax, lay the wire along the groove, then secure this also with
we pass
if
the wires
to
from
galvanic
battery
were
connected
electric
the
a streak of sealing-wax
spindles
d and e
respectively, the
current
which the wire is wound) on a piece of iron wire held in one hand, at the distance of 7 or 8 inches from the metal bobbin start the lathe, and allow the wire to guide the hand to and fro instead of attempting to
;
make
guide
the
it
on
hand guide the wire. Work slowly and well, and when the first bobbin is full to
;
cut off the wire, leaving 6 inches as at starting, and proceed to fill the other bobbin in the same way When the bobbins are fitted
on their cores,
it
be seen that the wires from the be similarly placed as those on the
will
;
magnet these two ends must be soldered together when the bobbins are in position on their cores. There now remains the other two ends to be disposed of. One of the ends must be
stripped of
its silk
and soldered
to the brass
tube A,
on both bobbins, and any current set up in those wires must be taken off at D and E. When the bobbins are fixed in position in the frame and we turn them in front of the magnet, this makes snatches at the bobbins and their cores, and causes a current of electricity to pass through the copper wire wound upon them. If now we allow the spindles to run in a metal frame, the current of electricity will circulate through that frame but if we insulate one of the outside the bobbins spindles from the frame by a bush of ebonite or of wood, we shall not get an external circuit for the As we do not desire to waste the electric current. current in a useless round through the frame, we bore a large hole in the frame for the end of the contact bush this hole wiih hard wood or with spindle ebonite, and this again with a bearing of brass tube,
must
also that
HOW TO MAKE
The end
bearing-
A MAGNETO-ELECTRIC MACHINE.
the handle bored
in the
it
555
and runs in contact with the spring s (Fig. 2). By this arrangement there is no external circuit for the electrical impulser set up in the coils on the bobbins. To secure this circuit we have to add a
separate part, consisting of a steel contact spring
the form and size of which are shown at Fig.
6.
and tapped
;
to receive
is
it.
By
this
always secured
C,
of
same direction since, should any person turn wrong way, the handle will come off. A piece round leather boot-lace sewn with thread will serve
It will
If this
for a driving-band.
spring was
of the
made to press equally on the rounded end spindle we should again short circuit the coils
c,
and that
is
to
this is
intended to facilitate
through the frame, and fail to get any external results. To avoid this, the end of the spindle is shaped as shown, Fig. 5. On referring again to Fig. 6, it will be
seen that whereas a round spindle would be always in
contact with the spring, this
filing
adjustment, and it may be as well to state here tha 1 the action of the machine may be much impaired by
a faulty adjustment of this part. The current is taken off by means of two handles made out of brass
tube, connected
contact
is
it
avoided by
only makes
to
brass
pins
inserted
two E
contact at each half-turn of the spindle. The coils are therefore short circuited through the frame at
and
F.
The
shocks
and the
severity of the
every half-turn of the spindle, and this circuit is broken at every other half-turn. This answers to the
may be
Apart from
this,
the strength of
will by knob and
is
coils,
and the
shocks
may be
diminished or increased at
being given by the jerky impulses sent through the spring s to the stud F (Fig. 2), and through the frame to the stud E every time contact is broken at C. As the working of the machine depends on the perfection
of this part,
I
actuating an armature A, by
means
of a
draw-bar K.
A
9.
full-size
It
is
shown
at Fig.
concerning
a few words.
it.
The
(fitted
other parts
may be
described in
3? inch by I inch by J inch, the bottom hole fitted with an iron pin f inch in length, and the smaller hole in the position shown in sketch, fitted with a hook of i inch brass wire, terminating outside the box in a brass knob. The use of this armature is to act as a
divider of the magnetic influence of the
is
The frame
wheels consisting of a 2f inch driving wheel, containing 10 teeth to the inch of circumference, gearing into a pinion fixed on the spindle of the driving pulley).
magnet
that
to say,
when
the armature
is
the magnet, as
netic influence
shown
is
in
magis
This frame
is
made
by
j inch,
and
is
usually cast in two parts, but it might be easily formed out of malleable brass, bent to proper form and se-
away from
the
magnet
shown
On reference to the plan (Fig. 2) the following points will be observed in the form of the
cured by set screws.
by the dotted lines in the plan, all the influence of the magnet is exerted on the revolving coils, and the
strength of the current
is
frame A bracket-like projection with a hole in it, will be seen in the top left hand corner this is made to receive the shank of the handle or key, when the machine is not at work on the same side of the frame, near the bobbins, the frame appears to terminate, but does not really do so, but is here turned aside between the legs of the magnet, as shown at Fig. 7, where it is seen to support the end of the insu:
increased.
In
fitting this
armature we
first
marked T on
plan, to receive
the iron pin that forms the pivot on which the armature rests
and moves.
We
it
lated spindle
at this point, also, two transverse lugs of brass spring out as supports for the magnet, which
;
here gripped between the lugs and a transverse supporting piece of brass on the other side, secured to the frame by a set screw, the curved part of the
is
it there with a grip of the such a manner as to keep it from slipping out, but leaving it free to move in the hole; then bore a hole in the end of the box for the brass wire to pass through, cut it off when the armature is in the position
magnet being supported by another transverse piece, as shown Fig. 7. The frame is supported in the mahogany box by long screws at M and at c, and by the stud E, which is made to screw into the frame. The handle H is made to screw on the end of the
plan, and fit a small neat brass knob to the end of the wire. The machine from which the plan was sketched, was enclosed in a neat mahogany box, 10 inches by 4 j inches by 5 inches, fitted with lock and key. Such a machine is sold by Mr. Dale, of 4, Little Britain, London, E.C., for 18s. 6d., and any part of the same
shown on
SS&
will
"
be supplied by him
up machines.
From
Faraday Works,
readers
Leicester,
am
my
housed with the mother hen during wet or windy weather (3) a dust bath and ash box are wanted for the special use of the growing broods, chickens being particularly plagued by insects and (4) coops for fattening cockerels for killing are welcome to every
; ;
hen-wife.
As regards pigeons
are
birds,
demands
and large machines for bazaars and With any of these machines the makers supply a twenty-four page pamphlet, showing
13s.,
guineas.
(3) and cages for prize pigeons, or valuable specimens of fancy varieties, usually kept in confinement, such as Fantails, from which it is desirable to
how
to
breed.
So much space has already been taken up in describing the manufacture of these machines and the principles of their construction, as to preclude any
remarks on how to apply the current to give relief from pain. I must, therefore, hold back several
sketches of appliances, and instructions for using them, to form the subject of another short article. I
will merely say at present that the current from such machines, when properly applied, has often relieved
Now
claim
that
the
be purchased separately from the makers of such appliances, must entail a considerable outlay, and there is every inducement to the amateur woodworker to give his leisure hours to the construction of a contrivance which is designed to save him that expense. The outlay for material, as will be seen by the figures appended to this article,
requisitions, if the
articles
sum of
that
it
fifteen shillings.
is
pain
ache,
in
assume
and kindred
useful
make
posal.
as
auxiliary to other
means
much as possible out of the space at disWere a yard of confined dimensions simply
with
the
articles
Q-==-0
A
"
littered
mentioned
viz.,
sitting
MULTUM-IN-PARVO
13y
"
FOR POULTRY
pigeon pans, and pairing cages it would be obvious that not much room would be left for the occupants Therefore, at the start, it is clear the of the yard.
style of architecture
fact,
in
By doing
OULTRY
limited
stands
so the area of the yard in which the arrangement is not only undiminished but is actually increased, as
I
1 is
1
a sketch of
is
upon
for
their resources.
is
What
not
is
sufficient
Multum
in Parvo."
Tier
a portion
not
when chickens begin to appear, and the advent of "squeakers" marks an epoch of overcrowding, unless additional room is
adult fowls
to pigeons,
and
as th
flooring does
extend for more than two-thirds of the length, the birds can readily obtain access to it from below, where
provided.
Such indeed has proved the experience of now sets forth in detail a plan by which some of the most urgent wants may be supplied. Perhaps it is necessary to state, by way of
preface, that the hints given are intended for the use
of suburban
residents possessing
moderate
vious
size,
small
portion
only
No. 2 they are provided with a run, partly and a compartment in which to nest, reached by holes, and placed within command of the owner by means of a door on the outside. The remaining and lower half of the house is apportioned to On tier 3 are two boxes the one containchickens.
on
tier
roofed,
ing
lime
cinder
number
easily lifted, and as they serve to roof over the run underneath, means of reaching the innermost recesses of that part are at once at hand. The sketch repre-
then, the
season
with
it
several
demands.
With
may be
by two flaps. Behind the and larger flap galvanized wirework is permanently fastened. In the case of the smaller flap
sents this lower run shut in
front
placed on the ground, so that the eggs may benefit by the natural moisture cf the earth (2) dry runs are needed for young chickens, in which they may be
;
wirework is stretched on a frame swinging from above, and so arranged that, fastened back at an
this
find
room
for free
A
ingress
"
.1)7
not per-
wind and wet, and render the quarters warm and secure and again, when both are fastened down, there is ample room for two broody hens, which do
;
____^
^J^*""'
TIER.!-
^^
<.-TlER.2-*
-TIER.3~>
^
- <-FT
-
t^^
^
>
TIER.-?..
FIG. 3.
FIG.
I.
^_
FIG.
-^
2. SKELETON OF FRAME.
when basking
in
effectually exclude
by the way, appreciate too much light, and require moreover on the soil. It merely requires a moment's attention to convert the same space into fattening pens for cockerels whenever occasion a ses.
not, to
sit
553
" MULTUM-IN-PARVO"
in-Parvo,"
To proceed to the construction of the " MultumI may observe that the measurements were
decided with especial reference to the economical use of wood as purchased in small quantities at a timber
yard.
notice
suffice
now
The framework
is
formed of quartering
\\
inch
now be
Match-lining
tier
feet, at
No.
1,
as
an idea of the skeleton of the whole, and Fig. 3 depicts a frame, of which it is necessary to make two one for each end of the house, which, hence, is six feet in height and two feet in depth, the length and breadth of the frame. The frames stood up on end, four feet apart, are braced together on. either side by widths of quartering, put eighteen inches from top and bottom. In order that it shall be perfectly clear to the unpractised carpenter
Fig. 2 gives
shown
wide,
is
1.
door
15 inches
now
to
can be hung to the upright by means of 6-inch garnet To divide the breeding place hinges, at 3d. per pair.
how
I add explanatory sketches. bottom corner, A the detached pieces of wood before they are screwed together. Fig. 5 in the same way shows the cross-bar mortise.
from the run a few pieces of board nailed together, having pigeon-holes cut therein, may be kept in position by means of a slide at top and bottom, and it will also be necessary to board in that portion of tier No. 2 at the side and back. The tiers, No. 1 and 2, are under control by the addition of the door at one
end.
it
length,
A being the cross braces, four feet and B the bar bisecting the frame shown
in
in
Measuring 3 feet in height and 2 feet in breadth, answers for closing in the ends of both tiers, one large door being more convenient and practicable than two small ones. This door is a light frame, constructed on the same model as that which is given
for
the smaller sketch in Fig. 2. All the joints are of the simplest mortise they are quite good enough for the
;
the frame
is
in
Fig. 3
used
It
only
purpose
in view, for
length of 12 feet
be just enough.
I
may
prefer
it,
quartering should be ordered, and these can be cut to the required measurements with a minimum of waste
with latches, which permit of the door being unhooked and carried out of the way. To complete the
chisel,
workman
to Figs.
I
needs.
Turning again
on
tier
and
will
be seen that
pigeon part of the house wirework is wanted to enA mesh of iA inch will do, close the vacant spaces. and 2 yards, 2 feet wide, at 4d., with 4 yards, 1 foot
wide, at 2d., will be the quantity to be ordered. Descending to the third tier, all that necessitates
attention
is
in
These can be of
from corner
wood
portion not already roofed, by the two boxes shown in the sketch. Such boxes, old brandy cases, which are
which
is
to
thoroughly well made, and measure 20 by 18 inches, I The bought of my grocer for fourpence a piece. skirting consists of the match-lining already obtained.
We have
is
The
all
the better
now come to the lowermost tier, which if made draught free, and for the
I
rabbet and
groove arrangement locks the several boards into one safe whole, which answers the double purpose that of a roof to the nesls below, and of a platform upon which the pigeons are eager to parade
sake of warmth
of
stouter
planks,
in
the sunshine.
boarded in on two sides one end, and the back permanently. The flap, or front is of like material, one board in width, and hung by garnet or T-hinges to the
brace, or joist above.
posal of rain-water,
be necessary to give this left to right, which may be done by nailing a tapering fillet of wood upon one end of the joists. The same plan serves for the flooring below, which, in its turn, protects the ash box and dust bath beneath but it must be remembered, in this case the floor boards run lengthways instead of across, and the fillet without being tapered,
will
;
The
structure
is
skirted with
At one explanks, screwed to the four uprights. tremity of the smaller flap, drawn partly open in the
sketch (Fig.
is
1), is
hung
in a similar
manner, but as
right up,
it
it is
must be attached
to the cross
It has already wirework (1 inch mesh) is stretched in the front as a permanency, and In Fig. 7 at the end in the form of a swing door.
ORIENTAL LATTICE-WORK.
I
559
mode which
find
work
and
is
answers, serving to confine hen and chickens, or hen alone at will, according to the angle at which the door
admits
air,
occupations of an
and suspended by a stay-hook. Three coats of paint may now be given, a pound of priming, lead colour, and green being laid on with a medium brush in succession, taking care to allow one coat to dry before the next is commenced. When working, the less humid the atmosphere the better. In damp weather the paint refuses to dry and soon discolours, becoming blotchy. In conclusion, I give below a detailed account of expenditure for materials, amounting to 14s., in proof that my estimate need not be overstepped. So many are the uses to which the house may be adapted, that the owner will find it worth his while to give it standis
raided
oriental dwelling.
The
being
The
that
only from the amateur that any departure from the established form and colouring of this work can be hoped. We cannot expect a return to the wrought iron verandah work of the early Georgian
it is
and the writer has no wish to see the cast-iron work of some of the Dutch villas repeated in England. There, however, it is no unusual thing to see the front of a house almost completely screened by latticed
period
;
ing
room
in his
yard in
all
seasons, though,
if
he
attics,
and
cast-iron is the
throughout, every part maybe rendered easily detachable and capable of being packed away in small compass, either for removal
when changing
his residence,
eye from
its
The
rich
;
howeyer, very
at first sight
to
may seem
to
Cost of Materials.
j.
d.
1
amateur
to pieces
attempt
Five 12
ft.
lengths quartering, \\
\ in. stuff,
in. sq.
at 5d.
at 5d.
in.
"|
Two
ft.
by 2
in.
o 10
Three 16
J in. match-lining, 6
how
simple was
all
With
J
...
One One
the various
12
12
ft.
.,
1
I
patterns are
made
of small pieces of
wood, bored,
ft.
in planking, 11
in.,
at is.
Two
and
the
fitted
old brandy cases, 20 by 18 in., at 4d. each Three pair 6 in. garnet hinges, at 3d. per pair... Nails and screw, catches, say
A in.
mesh
of the most effective in appearance, and at same time, most commonly met with, is the lattice pattern shown in the large compartment of Fig. 1.
One
ft.
wide, at 4d.
wide, at 2d. wide, at 4d.
To
construct this,
all
that
is
necessary
will
be a
Two
yards
1 ft. 1
in.
mesh,
ft.
wood of an oval shape, say 2 inches long diameter, and ij inches short diameter, the thickness of the wood being about 3 of an inch together with a number of pegs about J inches long
number
of pieces of
;
and i inch
in thickness.
By
ORIENTAL LATTICE-WORK.
By CEABCROSSE.
HE
fail
who
where the
lattice-work
open and a greater amount of light be admitted. These being provided, the circumference of each oval must be pierced with six holes, about 3 inch in depth, and of just the size to admit the pegs. The proper direction in which these holes should be bored, and also the manner in which the pegs are fitted in, will be seen by referring to section Fig. 2, from which illustration the whole principle of constructing these oriental lattices may be seen at a glance.
Upon
patterns
entirely
in
shown in Fig. 1, the variety depending upon the form of the pieces of wood used,
very great, and the effect very rich, especially when several of these occur in one piece of
work.
and the angles at which the connecting pegs are fitted In the compartment A of this illustration, the pattern is varied by using flaj; oblong forms placed
in.
5 6
alternately vertical
ORIENTAL LATTICE-WORK.
Besides the normal use of this
lattice-
and horizontal; while by substituting oval forms for the oblong, another variety would be obtained. In the compartment B, the form of the pegs is varied, and calls of wood are used the manner in which they are fitted together being shown in Fig. 3. In short, there is scarcely any limit to the variety of patterns which may be produced in this kind of work. Some ingenuity and patience will,
;
work
to
for casements,
divide off
also
where
partial privacy
is
desired, as in
the straw-
berry
FIG. 4.
STRAWBERRY
and blossom, which occur so frequently in Alhambresque decoration played a prominent part, and
leaf,
fruit,
LEAP,
FRUIT,
AND BLOSSOM.
these might also be applied to the kind of decorated lattice-work described above,
them
in their frames,
is
the effect
very striking.
is
oriental latticing
when this is accomplished, As regards strength, this much stronger than would be
but
to
the pegs being used to form the stem-like connection between the different parts, as in Fig. 4, from which illustration it will be seen that a little chisel- work may
imagined
adapted
It will
be necessary
to the forms.
to give character
compartment
to
ought
be
of
it.
the strength
fill
when any
to
Of the lattice and screenwork formed from the bamboo cane, I do not purpose to speak
as the material necessary for
its
extent of this
work has
be
done,
to
treat
the different
construction
is
not readily
compartments as window obtained in England, and, sashes, and to fit each one into therefore, is not available for WOODEN BALLS AND CONICAL PEGS. a general frame-work of upthe amateur. I have, however, rights and cross-rails, for the sake of support to the seen very fine specimens of this work, and one which whole, and to give also the opportunity of " hanging " I possess exhibits singular beauty of design and great some compartments to open as doors or windows. ingenuity in its construction.
FIG. 2.-
ORIENTAL LATTICE-WORK.
There are many reasons which lead
that the
56i
all
me
to believe
I
the
method of making
lattice-work that
have
all
trellised doors,
described above
of novel
forms
for
and patterns
ental
style
that in
country
is
of
there
found
va-
making
is
lattice
so very
little
both
appli-
riety in lattice-
cable
sirable.
and
de-
work, or
trellisit
work, as
is
of
it
Much may be
commonly
ed.
sists,
call-
fashioned in the
lathe, as, for ex-
most
flat
of
consisting
laths set at
of balls of
wood
and
various
crossing
base,
with
in
one another at
angles,
(
pointing
different
tion, as
according to the
pleasure of the
direcin
shown
maker,
being
Fig.
3.
Ornaof
in
pinned together at each crossing by a wire nail, which is clenched in order to keep
the
laths
mentation
this
kind cut
thin
wood by
fretis
aid of the
saw,
not
so
useful,
because
lasting,
contiguous
in
not so
for
close
such a patas
that
in Fig. 4,
contact.
Now
trellis-
tern
although
shown
in
work
kind
and,
is
of
this
when rendered
fret
-
strong,
work,
to
compara-
would be apt
break.
If this
easily
is
made, it monotonous
its
in
appear-
panels
sorted
will
is to,
reit
ance, especially
where there
is
be well to
for
much
It
is
of
it,
and
that
FIG.
I.
use
the
requires true
it
relief.
purpose
wood
when
is
over-
formed of three
layers glued to.
its
grain in a contrary
year
when
are,
is
most
likely
to
come under
notice.
There
however,
many garden
structures in which
St.,
Chiswell St., E. C.
5^2
THE VIOLIN:
THE VIOLIN
By
:
HOW
TO MAKE
IT.
which
is
to exactly the
A, B,
done by unfastening it, and fastening it same position by making the notches
maple
for
scroll.
This
is
stored in
2 to
i| inches.
smooth and even, like the slabs for the back and belly, then with a small plane and T-square square to the smooth side the 2-inch or thicker edge of the block. When this is done, and quite true, take an ordinary cutting or marking gauge, and mark a line along the thick edge i-ff inches from the planed side. Then make the other side smooth and square to the thick planed edge by planing down to the gauged line. This done, you will have a block \o\ inches long, about 2| broad, one edge i'-J- deep, squared and planed, the other edge left rough, and your neck block is prepared for work. You may now proceed to mark and cut out the neck and scroll. In the Supplement (Part 17) is given
a Straduarius scroll corresponding with the outline. In page 254 are given directions for copying any scroll
and mark the outline in the same way with and pencil, and thus you have two outlines marked exactly on either side opposite one another. Before removing the plank outline from either side, mark the curl of the scroll by thrusting a point through each of the drilled holes, a, a, a, which indicate it on the outline, by which the volute of perforations on the outline will be marked by little dents on the outline drawn on either side of the block.
the edge,
point
Now
bed e f g k,
Fig. 47,
i k,
if
on to paper. Let a tracing of this scroll, or your own, be glued on to a thin plank or leaf of wood (like the plank outline), and cut it out in the same way very exactly, so that you have in fact Fig. 47 in thin wood. Now all along, or rather round the line a a a of the
volute pierce with a small drill small holes, so that the form of the scroll is marked on the plank by a perforated volute. Now on the front of this outline
block
is
perfectly plane.
Now
the back
scroll
on
notches at the point, A, B, c, Fig. 47, and you have the complete model for marking the
three
little
make
and
neck and
scroll, as at
I.
You
will re-
member
neck
is
which
is
smooth and squared, and the other side is left rough. Now fasten the plank outline of the neck and scroll on to one smooth face of the block against the squared and planed side of the block, as in Fig. 47, taking the square D E F G to represent the block, and
F its squared side, the outline just touching the edge at the points H, A, B, as in the figure. It is important that it be flush with the edge at A and B,
c,
centre exactly f T from each side having got it and set a gauge to this distance, mark a centre line right
round the neck and scroll, being careful that the side along which you run the gauge is the plane side from which you squared and planed the two surfaces. With the aid of this centre line proceed to mark your scroll by means of a set of three models, made of pliable zinc or soft brass, taken from some acknowledged master-violin.
but at
it
maybe
just a
shade lower, as
in the figure,
The
Now
line,
mark
marking a rougher one outside it with a pencil now by means of a square mark across the smooth edge, G F, of the block three lines at the point A, B, c,
Fig. 47, exactly at the notches, A, B, c.
from the Stradivarius fiddle from which I have taken all the models with which I have presented my readers, a being the front, B the back, and C the front of the volute. First set the fine end of the model, A,
Fig. 48, up under the volute on the front of the scroll, so that, as in a,
line,
it
This
will serve
as a guide where to
fix
as
shown by
the line
front of the
IT.
563
the centre.
At present
only the lines A, B (Figs. 49, 50, and 52) are marked on the block, it will now be found that the bottom of A,
Fig. 4S, just reaches the line A, Fig. 49, so by the model A, Fig. 48. you can mark the lines D, d', Fig. 49. Next set the top of the model, B, at the top of the scroll block, and similarly mark the back of the scroll with
Having made the lines of the volute, as viewed back and front, as in Fig. 53, perfectly straight and even to one another, with chisels, gouges, and files, proceed
with a
flat
the lines E,
e',
as in Fig. 51.
Now mark
the front of
model c on the centre line, coinciding with the lines E, e', Fig. 51, and mark the These being done, you may roughly lines F, f'. elongate the lines D, d' and F, f' to G, g' on back and Be careful, however, to front, as in Figs. 49 and 51. leave plenty of breadth between G and G', which
the
scroll,
setting the
should be at least
1 \
inch apart.
sides
Meanwhile,
the
of your
is
neck-block are
50,
marked
as in Fig. 47,
(;z
which
enlarged at Fig.
a a, Fig. 47) being marked by puncnow draw the tures in the wood, as there described line C c' in the position indicated in Fig. 50, on both sides, and with a fine tenon saw cut down to the lines D, d' and F, F'; be careful not to go beyond either of them either side, for they are not opposite one another on back and front.
the volute
;
box smooth, making them equal by the centre line, by means of the spring compass, and adjusting the breadth from your model by the bow compass (Fig. 18). Now, from the model B (Fig. 48), cut out a thin slip of wood, like Fig. 54, by which to regulate the cutting of the chin of the scroll, K (Figs. 50 and 51), which must now be done with a sharp knife and file, so that when viewed sideways it is pronounced and wellangled, as in Fig. 50, and nicely rounded into the lines E, e', as in Fig. 5r, and at B, Fig. 48. Next, with a fine-bladed knife, cut out and neatly form the corner under the volute, L (Fig. 50), so that it follows the model in the Supple7iient. Now open the spring compasses -^th inch, and gauge a line round the sides of the volute from the eye of the scroll M (Fig. 50) to
the outer point C of the line C
c' in
the
same
figure.
it
were) must be
left in
the subsequent
margin
A, A,
this line as an outside proceed to chisel the scroll, letting the lines which appear perpendicular in Fig. 53, to
Taking
be
left
flat,
Now set the block upside down in the vice so that about 3 inches are above the bench, and saw down the lines G, G' to the head, only sawing two or three inches
at a time, for the least strain
and
B, B,
sink in a
little
scroll,
on the head
and exactly
down
as
line
C',
Now prithee be as carelul as if you were catching the sparks of a squib in a plate over a powder magazine, and proceed as follows Make from the sides to the lines F, f' and E, e', on back and
and
52.
:
J J, remove the and the corners left round the outer volute by them, and take care not to cut biyond any part of the lines F, f' and E, e' on either
front,
H, 11, and
side.
You
any deviation from, or careless treatment of, these particulars would render the scroll more Guarneriuslike, and unworthy the model we are working on. Now proceed to cut out the grooves down the back of the scroll and round the volute (n, n, Figs. 51, 52); this must be done by fastening the neck downwards into the vice, and grooving it out carefully, taking the depth, etc., from the model you are following. Before commencing to do so, open the spring compass -rsth inch, and mark a gauge line round the back and over to the front of the scroll, similar to the one you drew round the sides and volute the grooves, N, N, must be sunk between this gauge line and the centre line, which latter must be left strong and clearly defined.
;
One
is
marked and
finished,
i.e.-,
cannot describe
words
to
fail
me to
express
the
it
roughly
copied.
When
make
the spiral
is
Fig. 53 represents the back and front of a properly cut volute if you cannot copy by eye and hand, leave
;
you are a
lailure.
This you will see on consultThese grooves must be equal on both sides of the centre line, and must come right over the scroll and under the volute to the point L (Fig. 50), but this last had better be left till the peg-box is cut out, which may now be done, first marking it by opening the marking compass T3F th inch, and drawing a line down each side of the front of the scroll and
shown
in Fig. 55).
5 64
IT.
along the line A (Fig. 52), so as to enclose a space as shaded on Fig. 52. N.B. In case by the chiselling of the chin, the line B is not exactly on a level with the base
it must be corrected, i.e., the line B (Figs. 49, 50, and 52), must be exactly opposite the chin, and the line A brought as before just ^th inch (the breadth of the nut), above it, as in Supplement. The peg-box, therefore, being marked as in Fig. 52, proceed to cut it out, beginning with a small gouge, and going on with gouge, knife, and flat chisel, till the peg-box is cleanly and sharply cut, as The cheeks are a little thinner just above the nut than set down on page 255, Vol. I. elsewhere, to allow the G and E string to go from their pegs to the nut, clear of the Finish the peg-box by scraping cheeks, and at an equal distance from the others. the bottom of it with the flat edge of the chisel, and file the insides of the cheeks, and also the outsides, quite clean and smooth with a flat file. File also the fronts of the cheeks, to have them clean, smooth, and sharp-cornered, as in Fig. 55. Your scroll is now therefore cut as I warned you before commencing the description of the process, is, perforce, meagre, and you must get a well-cut head as a model, which you must work from more than my directions, which, after all, can only serve The measurements also on page 255, Vol. I., are only as an outline of procedure. approximate they vary, of course, with every model and in this also you must be guided by common sense and eye, without which you can never make a fiddle, much
:_
FIG.
scrape
head as near as you can with the chisel, then and sand-paper it thoroughly all over the curves and In cutting the grooves on the back, etc., mind and in the corners of the volute. the sand-papering, etc., will remove leave the centre mark prominent and untouched To sand-paper the grooves you will find it a good plan it from the top of the ridge. to roll a piece of sand-paper round the end of a penholder, and work thus with a cylinder of sand-paper. When thoroughly sand-papered, wet the head all over with a brush and cold water, this (as in the case of the back and belly) will throw up any faults, defects of scraping, etc., after which it must be thoroughly rescraped, if necessary, and re-sand-papered, which operations must be gone through some two or three times. Be most cautious not to alter the character of the head, or spoil its lines by too vicious sand-papering. When
This done,
it
is done, proceed to bevel off the edges of the head, all round the head and volute (but not inside the peg-box), extending the bevel to lines, which should be very carefully and exactly gauged round the corners ^th inch from the edges. Begin this cutting with the knife, and finish it with a file to make it even, removing the file marks with fine sand-paper (but keep the edges of the bevel sharp). This done, dip the head in water for the last time, and when thoroughly dry polish it up well with finest
this
must be perfectly
flat.
As sand-papering
result
in
FIG.
inevitably
rounding off
THE
VIOLIN:
HO IF TO MAKE
IT.
FIO. 57.
SLOPE OF SHOULDER.
E
566
THE
upon
it.
VIOLIN:
HOW TO MAKE
back.
to
careful,
IT.
wide enough to allow B
little
B'
and it remains only therefore finally to shape the neck and shoulder before setting it upon the body of the violin. For this purpose you will require a neck outscroll flat
Your head
is
now
finished,
wider.
;
Be
line,
useful here as
Fig.
and so may now be made. It is represented by 56, actual size, and may therefore be copied in
From
the line B
measure down the centre line, and makeamark at a distance of 5^th inches from B. Now, with a square draw a line across the face of the neck (as at G G', Figs. 49, 50, and 52), and laying the neck outline (Fig. 56) on the side of the neck and scroll, so that its lower point A is on the line drawn across the neck, as above, and its straight edge cor-
and
52),
flat
mark on
is
at
the slant
and
all
shoulder (as at
o',
by the
however, not to cut them too wide though, by accident it should be so, by planing down the end B B the neck will go farther back and fill up the space between the cuts. The neck and shoulder being thus held on to the top of the fiddle, see that it is quite straight, and mark on the top of ribs the lines D B and D' B', with a fine marking-point or the point of a knife. Holding the knife firmly, deepen this mark by drawing the knife down it (being careful not to let it slip on to the belly at the end of the cut) till you have cut quite through the ribs. Now remove the wood between the lines, cutting away equally belly, ribs, and block, till you have hollowed out a chamber (as for the rest), quite square and clean cut, \ inch deep all over, being so exactly the shape of the shoulder (Fig. 57), that the latter fits quite tightly into it. The under surface of the shoulder must be planed until from the nut (line B, Fig. 52) to the end of the neck, G G',
if
,
remove
Fig. 52) is a distance of exactly 5 T 5 inches. The planing must, however, not alter the slant determined
'
by the model
(0,
figure.
done as follows Note lower edge of the face of the neck), where the centre line, which extends from the nut throughout its length, ends at the point A. From the point a, by means of a square laid on l) D', draw a centre line A a'. Open the spring compasses ith inch, and mark on each side of A', the points B, B', and finish the slopes D B, d' B', which must be quite straight, true, and, above all things, plain. You can now proceed to fix your neck and scroll on the body of the fiddle. With the spring compasses ascertain the exact centre of the belly between the crannies of the twoy/holes, and make a small mark in like manner find and mark the exact centre between the edges of the upper bouts at their
This
is
:
n' (the
Fig 50) must be cut so as to fit exactly against the when thus fitted, the front of the shoulder
Fig. 50)
\ of
an inch above
the belly.
set
fitting exactly,
exactly straight
is
This
ways
get.
to ensure
perfection,
which
is
very hard to
:
The neck
1st,
from the rise of the arching to the is on straight, the centre ridge of the back of the scroll will coincide with and form a
button;
if
the neck
continuation of this
larly, so that
the
line. 2nd, Hold the belly simimark you made between the crannies
of the
f f holes
coincides
and forms a
broadest part.
flat
If the point A, Fig. 57, at the bottom of the neck. neck is straight, the centre ridge on the front of the
exact
volute of the
this line.
head
will coincide
centre
by
this
means mark
broad,
about the distance at equal distances on the top edge, from the point you have marked in the centre of the top edge, in the
Now open the spring compasses C C (Fig. 57), and mark two points
and 2h inches high at the broad end. Now set the fiddle on its side, and slipping the wedge underneath the scroll, note the point on the side of the wedge
where the eye of the
the fiddle over
process,
it
it.
;
Now
same
turn
same manner
points
as
the place on
and
set
on
if
its
other side
repeat the
point,
regular, the
the rest.
At these
and
if
make two
cuts,
your model
is
zontally,
through the edge as far downwards and inwards as the top and surface of the ribs. In the hollow thus cut, set the shoulder cut as at Fig. 57, so that the end B B' goes against the button left on the
head and neck must be exactly true to the axis of the instrument. This is the best, because the most certain test for the fiddle-maker.
When
outline
a fiddle
is
is
very
old
sometimes
THE
untrue,
VIOLIN:
it is
HOW TO MAKE
the
IT.
fil
and then
it
fails
and one
at
Having
Fill the
ascertained, therefore,
by
is right, proceed to chamber, and smear the button with good strong glue, press the neck in as hard as you can with the hand, and just rapidly repeat your tests, to make assurance doubly sure then with a strong iron cramp, cramp the shoulder to the button, protecting the latter with a slip of wood, seeing that the shoulder is well pressed to the bottom of the chamber. Apply the screw button of the cramp to the face of the neck, pressing as hard as you can.
;
protected by a slip of
wood between
this is
it
arm
of the cramp.
When
and
not cut
down
into the
Wipe
down
glue with
warm
water,
and
The
the neck,
is
is
to cut
board, which
a finger-board
made
of pear or syca-
from which it may be prepared the roughlyhewn neck must be cut away with the knife, being most cautious not to let the knife slip and injure the head, till the end A of Fig. 59 just fits over it below the chin of the scroll, and the end B just fits over it above the shoulder. It is best that at these points the forks of the model should, in the first stage of the cutting, barely go over the wood, it will be sufficient to get these diameters approximately right,
till
we
are ready to
fit
up the
and
purpose we must prepare what is called the fingerboard holder, which is a wooden contrivance, shaped as in Fig. 58, in which the fingerboard (false or final) is held for working on, and to serve as a guide to the outline and shaping thereof. It is composed of a slip of wood, A, represented by the shaded part, I inch thick and Il| inch long, being fl in. broad at B and ii in. broad at C; it is hollowed This slightly down the centre, as shown in section. is enclosed between two walls, D D, formed of two other strips of wood, high enough to stand T 5 inch above A on each side. A piece of wood the shape of A may be pushed into this, and held firmly whilst being worked at, the scooping out allowing of its being inserted curved side downwards.
For
this
till
further reduce
them.
just
'
4-^ inch. Continue to cut down the neck and shoulder till the model (Fig. 59) goes well over both neck and false fingerboard at the two points above explained. With the smallest flat steel plane smooth the sides of the false fingerboard, till the line where it joins the neck
is
done
the button,
making
it
as even
Having and
circular as possible,
and
To make
wood
If!
in.
from the edge of the back. you have shaped the neck as far as possible with the knife, take a good rasp and obliterate, as far as possible, the marks of the knife, but not more
(neither
less),
more nor
When
and render one side absolutely plain. Turn it over and replace it in the holder, and having reduced it to a thickness of f inch round the top approximately like that of a real ebony fingerboard. Now go over the face of the neck of your fiddle with a fine steel plane so as to render it quite plane and level (but not so as to work it down thin) so that the false fingerboard lies close upon it. Take a gouge and hollow out a trough along the under or plane surface of the false
broadest ends.
Set
it
in the holder
files
flat fine one for the neck, and an oval fine one for the shoulder and chin of the scroll. Bevel off the outer edge of the button just as much as (in fact to match) the bevel of the edges. Now, with a scraper, scrape the neck and shoulders as smooth as possible, after which give it a good polishing with
using a
fine.
Now
go
all
may have
fingerboard,
so
that
it
will
last rubbing,
when you remove it to make permanent one, and smearing what is left of this under surface with glue set it on the neck, the narrow end being flush with the lower edge of the peg box (line A, Fig. 52) when it will be found just to project about inch or a little more over the belly. Fix it with three iron cramps, one just below
way
for the
;
you can make it, your instrument is finished " in the white," and can at once be varnished preparatory to If it is in the summer fitting it up and playing on it. time this can be proceeded with at once, as described but if it is in autumn or in the chapter on finishing winter, hang up your fiddle, if possible, in a dry
;
j68
glass case
will
till
and
it
be greatly benefited by the seasoning " in white." It remains only to give instructions for varnishing and bringing up to melody point, but I may now take the opportunity to say that if I am called on to do so by those who have followed me in Violin-making up
to this point,
I
As we have got thus far in our subject, I think it would not be out of place to give a brief resume of the process of sand-moulding for the benefit of those of our readers who would like to experiment a little in
this line.
The
will,
at
some
think
it is
in the
preceding chapters
violin on an inside mould. whole back. 3. With a spliced, or joined head, which will show my readers how to put a new neck on a fiddle, whose original neck is too short, or in any other way defective, but whose head it is of course archidesirable to retain. 4. With
to
How
make a
With a
slab, or
and differing in other slight particulars, by which identical results are produced by different means. I will, if they are called for, give the mould
sides,
The first thing he will require is sand; he can obtain from any brass moulder if he lives in a large town, if not, any of the dental depots in London will send a bag for about a shilling Claudius Ash & Sons, Broad Street, Golden Square, London, for instance, will supply you. The moulder will let you have as much as you can carry for about sixpence. The next thing required is a moulding box, a useful size for an amateur would be about six inches by eight inches, and about eight inches deep it is made as a square frame (no top or bottom as an ordinary box) and then sawn in two about the middle, some arrangeof amateurs.
this
;
;
in
the readers of
ment must then be added to ensure the two halves always going back into the same place after separation;
can be effected, for instance, with three small bolts in fastening cupboard doors, the bolt being fastened to the top half, and the eyelet part, into which
this
Amateur Work may have the advantage of having both of the great models to work on, besides a thorough practical, theoretical, historical, and scientific
used
knowledge of the
{To
art
We
Fiddle-making.
be continued.)
=*=
J.
DVRRANCE.
IV, TURNED
WORK AND CORES [continued). E will now take Fig. 14, which is quite
ferent to the others.
It is
mould the cap chuck, Fig. 10. Commence by slightly damping the sand, just sufficient to make it adhere when squeezed in the hand now lay the bottom half of box on a flat board, ram it full of sand, smooth off with a piece of wood, place the pattern, mouth downwards, on the sand, and in the centre put the top half of box on and fasten the bolts in their places. Something must now be sprinkled
suppose we are going
to
;
on the sand
dif-
sand sticking to
a slotted faceto
plate
for lathe,
proceed to ram the top half of sand. When finished, turn over the box and separate. What was firstly the
and
elevation, being
shown
in Fig.
15.
The
pattern
is first
glued on. A strip of wood is then planed up for a core pattern, to wrap paper round. Remember it
print,
16,
added, Fig.
so that
when
the pieces
into
their
are cut
off
the core-strip,
and dropped
places in the mould, they will touch the top half of the
mould, and make] square holes through. The casting, Fig. 17, shows pattern in plaster. Proceed as follows Get a circular card-board box, cut a hole in the centre to let the portion, A B, in Fig. 17, drop through run a little wax round to make tight, to prevent plaster running out. Now pour in plaster ; dry take off paper box wrap paper round as before and then put on the top, making holes for pouring
:
bottom half will now be the top, out of this knock the sand first rammed in, put back into its place and proceed to ram in sand, which will now go into the large hole in the pattern. When finished, tap all round gently with a piece of wood, then separate. The pattern must now be drawn by driving into it a small spike then gently knocking from side to side, the pattern will draw out of the sand. A pouring hole, or gate, as it is called in the trade, must now be made no vent is required in this instance as the sand is porous. The box is now fastened together and the metal poured quickly in. Cores are inserted just the
;
same as
subject,
We will,
in plaster,
etc
and now take an example of an irregular core, and a very advanced specimen of core work. This brings us to the making of a core box, as our
S69
FIG. 14.
-Oo
Hk,
nump
CORE
PRINTS
; 1
CORE
WIDTH
OF
CORE STRIP
FIG. 15.
FIC.
f;*
PRINTS
^f:
z H
Ul
l
"
PRINTS
<JI
\m
~~
:
'^W\
'mm^
FIG. 17.
PATTERN
IN PLASTER.
57
instance.
A COAL-SCUTTLE
By
There is scarcely any limit to the shape of cores which can be made in these boxes. The example,
Fig.
18,
is
make
NE
hole, being
shown
plainly in
Now
Make a
pattern
is
not quite
set,
then
when
quite hard,
as before.
to
In
fact,
proceed just
make a mould
shown
in
to cast in.
Now
in
oak might be given in these pages, and I have been asked to comply with the said correspondent's request. do so the more gladly, I because directions for making an article of such general use cannot fail to be of service to a large number of amateur carvers and carpenters and, in;
A mould
19,
two halves
now made,
thicker
deed,
it
is
Editor's
as
plan Fig.
only
make
it
little
When
communication found me with such an article in progress in my own workshop, for use in my own
study.
now our core box, In ordinary practice, as we require. made of wood, in two halves, and dug
pins inserted, to always go back in
now done with. We have and with it can make as many cores
these boxes are
of
which he desires
The correspondent in question has old oak by him, His case is probably to make use.
others. A small article like a coal-scuttle a good opportunity for using up fragments of
that of
offers
same
place.
is
For
the
our method
best.
carving which are not large enough for any more important piece of furniture. There is no reason why
Now
pound
to use the
Thoroughly dry, then coat slightly oil mix core comlay two halves of core box face upmould.
utilise
wax
wards; fill each with plaster, quite full; as soon as it is very slightly set, so that you can turn it over without spilling (don't let it set too much), place the two halves together, the groove will make it go into its proper place (for core boxes make a very deep groove) now put a pressure on the mould I usually stand on it with one foot for a minute, then put a weight Then open and shake out core trim on till dry. with a knife, as plaster generally runs between faces of mould now dry in the oven, as before drop into its
now given should not be so adapted as to such scraps. I shall, therefore, have something As, however, likely to say under this head presently. to be of the greatest use to the greatest number, I have given drawings of new carved decoration for all
the plans
In Fig.
the whole.
will
This sketch
as
made
In such an
exposed
is
I
it
must be
to
constant rough
usage, strength
ness.
place in
mould of
think these
made of inch oak. If, however, the worker make his work lighter, both in appearance and reality, which he may do safely if he proposes to
out be
prefers to
line the inside with metal,
manage. I must
present.
It
now
conclude
this
subject
for
the
The
to
only differ-
has just struck me I have written part of a treatise on moulding and casting, and I have no doubt the amateur pattern-maker may learn a hint or I hope he may. two for pattern-making generally.
ence
this
will
make
with
will
regard
the working
drawings
will
be that he
The bottom,
stuff.
lid,
have many mishaps, but he must let his motto be, Nil despcrandum. He will find the practice of the art that I have been endeavouring to describe and explain extremely useful and valuable, for it will
enable him to carry out for himself, and with his own hands, many a piece of work, to achieve which he
He may
The dimensions
inches.
length, 18 inches
11
The
must otherwise have sought the aid of others, and thus to become independent of assistance of this kind, an end which every amateur, whatever may be his special hobby, should seek to attain.
owing
directly
to the angle at
placed bringing
and top, and which it is under the eye, are the most
These, therefore,
will
.571
If old
is
be
little
but
if
the
From
carved.
rate
can promise a rich effect when The pattern may at first sight appear an elabo2
I
Fig.
may be
as well to guard
one for the purpose. But the decoration is little beyond surface-decoration, and is of a kind that may be executed with much rapidity. Carvings in this style
are frequent in the panel-work of the seventeenth century. Such work is quickly carved, because the various incisions are generally to be cleared out with
we have a view
Its
way
in
which
it
trenched upon by the support of the handle, render an awkward space to decorate satisfactorily. This,
is
however,
of less consequence, as
it
will not
catch
It will
be
tool merely.
is
made
to conceal the
dove-
interlacing bands.
A,
full-size, of one of the which bound it, marked are made by a single sweep of the V- chisel, or
give a section,
The
lines
dividing-tool.
The central hollow, B, is made by a similar sweep of the gouge. The round and crescent-
emphasized and made prominent. In such an article dovetailing is wanted to secure due strength, and that being the case, it would be false taste to try to
hide
the
it.
An
shaped markings which enrich the hollow are each formed by two cuts of a smaller gouge, the corners of which have been rounded off. Instead of these the enrichment might be made by simple indentations
with a grounding-punch, which would be done still more rapidly; or by a mixture of the two, as we
frequently see in old work.
and from
this
wood outwards is slightly rounded off, as it is also The thickness of the bottom is also at the corners. marked in a similar manner and thus a border is
;
formed round three sides of the space, along the centre of which a row of screw heads forms a dotted
line.
About a quarter of an inch would be the greatest depth to which any part of this decoration would extend.
be cut with equal rapidity, its outline being shaped by two or three double cuts with a large gouge, and its veins put in with the
dividing-tool.
The demands
here
it
into ornament.
And
may be
is
manner
is
in
The
central flower
may
fixed
It
is
fitted
with a
as
shown
in Fig. 6.
The
object of this
much
way
If joined as directed,
Scarcely more labour will have to be spent on the ornamental border. The edge has first to be moulded
be dust-proof,
at c, and then enriched with an old English rendering of the Classical " Egg and Dart " pattern. Here, again, a couple of double strokes with the gouge will express the semi-circular
shown
in the illustra-
The heads
add
to
leaves which take the place of " eggs." Three strokes with a smaller gouge one down the centre, and one
metal
lining, best
made
of zinc or galvanized
the
woodwork
each side will vary the surface, and give a pleasing play of light and shadow and veins running through
to
;
from much rough wear, and is cleanly. The amateur may not, however, choose to incur the expense of this,
deep notch
dividing-tool. A simple each of the intervening spaces between stands in place of the "tongue," and
(Fig. 7),
completes the border. In illustration of the speed with which the flat band-work decoration can be cairied out, I may say that in about three evenings I have filled the whole
six panels of
They
They
little
gouge-work.
to
These
feet,
flat-
a door with a pattern not less intricate than that before us. My study is surrounded with a
to
headed screws
dado of old oak panelling. Most of the panels came my hands plain, some half-dozen only being enAll
both those pieces which meet at the corner, help to support the bottom, and greatly strengthen the whole work.
riched in the
manner described with ancient carving. the rest somewhat more than thirty panels
As the back (Fig. 8) can rarely be seen, it would be useless to waste carving upon it. To it is screwed
the catch (Fig. 9) to receive the coal-scoop. In those districts where large coal only is used, a scoop is
useless,
have decorated to harmonize with the ancient work, and I was surprised to find how quickly and easily
the task was accomplished.
and
this feature
The handle
(Fig. 10) is
strip of
572
^w^w^m^m^
/^Sts
FIG.
I. COAL-SCUTTLE
IN
CARVED OAK.
PERSPECTIVE VIEW.
573
FIO. II.
SUPPOKT OF HANDLE.
574
f-inch
stuff,
A FANCY JARDINIERE.
15!-
inches long.
The
central part
is
the purpose.
My plan
rounded, and cut to a twist. The ends are rounded down to 1 inch, to pass through the holes bored in the supports. Here they are secured, as shown, by square pegs driven from above. If the worker has a
lathe, instead of the twist
make
slips
the carved
slight decoration
will
upon it with screws from within. This would be much more satisfactory than gluing them. The pieces can be planed down at the back to a uniform thickness, and a good effect may be got from odd
scraps thus applied,
if
probably sub-
be neater in effect. It will be well that the pins on which the supports turn should be fitted with screws and nuts on the
will
which
may
if,
make
some
workers.
may
inside.
If
inch board
is
used
common
suffice
;
instead of one-fourth, they will regard the working drawings as one-fifth of the actual size, and enlarge
loose in time.
The supports
are
made
so long as to
them accordingly, they will have a scuttle 22I inches There are few rooms in which a larger size long.
than this can be required.
in
down over
the
scuttle,
top,
and so to let the lid be folded flat whenever there may be occasion for
states that
Those who do their work partly in old and partly oak, and wish to make the whole harmonize in colour, I must refer for directions to my articles on
new
he
I.
has a carved panel, measuring 9A inches by 7 inches by 2 inches, of which he would wish to make use in the lid of his coal-scuttle. The dimensions are not quite
well suited for the purpose,
fair to
have pleasure
in
by
and
to
other readers
if I
were
that correspondent of whom I have before spoken. " Common soda, 2 lbs. ; burnt umber, It is as follows
:
lb.
pints of water,
and simmer
till
meet his requirements. I will, however, suggest two methods by which such a panel might Le adapted to the plan before us. If placing the panel with one of its ends lowermost will not spoil the effect of the carving, he has but to join to it a strip of inch wood, 2 inches wide, all round. In Fig. 12 A is the panel, and B B are the strips. A line of moulding laid on these, as at c C, will lead down from the thicker to the thinner wood, and form a sort of frame to the carved panel. If the old carving be good, this will undoubtedly make a very rich lid. If, however, the design of the carving renders it necessary that it should be placed lengthwise, two broader strips, 3$ inches wide, will have to be joined which will bring it to the panel, above and below from 7 inches to the required depth, which is 14. The length of the panel is 92 inches and three-fourths of an inch, the half of the difference between this and
clusively to
; ;
reduced to a quart. Paint on with a brush, and when dry, brush the wood with a whalebone brush till polished; then apply naphtha varnish,
the mixture
spirit
My correspondent pronounces this to be the best and cheapest method of colouring new oak to resemble
old, that
x=4==-
A FANCY JARDINIERE.
S]j
(For Illustrations,
see the
Supplement
to this Part.)
LOWERS
that
is
for lovers
of
branch of nature
Artificial
1 1
lid, will
proper border.
plan will be to
man,
make
have arrived
but these,
two inches than the dimensions laid down. It can be done with little difficulty. The quatrefoil carved on the top and the slight ornament on the front may both be elongated a little without injur)'. The two broad strips will require a little enrichment, which should harmonize with the carving of the central panel. Unlike this correspondent, those who possess scraps of carved panel which might serve to decorate a coal-scuttle, will probably have them in thin board, too thin to have by themselves strength enough for
although nice ornaments, are at their best but pot compared with nature, and lacks that which is mocharming life. Lovers of botany when among flower are never without companions, and the science is on
which embraces a wide field of interesting information. A thorough knowledge of flowers is certainly useful in various ways, and affords an acceptable subject for conversation, besides perhaps being of service to
youthful couples wishing to correspond surreptitiously. Fach flower has a significant meaning, and there are
m--
XXIII. OV\
A FANCY JARDINIERE.
many
which, when blended as a bouquet, are most
575
beautiful,
and convey terms of endearment which are perhaps, a'.one understood by the donor and recipient. There are many, perhaps, who would cultivate the study of flowers more generally if they had convenient receptacles for them, and could tend them with ease. Our illustration, while offering these advantages, is, at the same time, an additional and ornamental piece
of furniture.
The
construction
is
such as
preferred,
although,
if
may
be inserted
made, and a larger upon the plain surface D, and is enclosed by eight pieces, G, which are surmounted by the fancy piece F (here also only half of design is given). Through J the glass is inserted, and upon the lines Q, if the lace pattern is used at E, a similar enclosure, I, must be made to correspond. Fig. K is a rough skeleton sketch of the general construction, and a glance first at this and then at the "miniature" (p) will unquestionably assist the amateur in comprehending the idea more easily than by wading through a long description. The
at D, a slight elevation is
shown
glass used.
Here the
glass rests
and
substituted.
The advantages
of a fancy jar-
is
may
be above those
in the glasses
The design
is
they can be
moved
and
if
apprehension of their coming to grief, the glasses holding them being partially enclosed (b) and, still
;
cutting out,
it
will
much
further,
may be planed
be
less
To
the
more
cynical,
the drawing
may
who
;
The glasses for the bulbs can be purchased at any china warehouse at a very reasonable cost. The
circles
and frequent " stimulant " but this suggestion must be obviously unfounded in these days of " Blue Ribbonism " and " Good Templarism," when such corrupt practices are without record.
to receive
;
same must be
cut to
the size of
glasses purchased
followed exactly.
pleasing effect
in
may be
obtained
parts
by a
is
little
judgment
The wood
to
be con-
and
flowers.
Those
structed must be
The sycamore,
is
appearance,
be lined at the back with a suitable coloured cashmere. This, besides being an ornamentation, will hide the ends of the glasses otherwise
seen,
and therefore troublesome to keep clean while mahogany and walnut, which are darker in colour, are, perhaps, more advantageous in this respect to work.
The
fully
mount
The
th'ckness of the
amateur
ever,
inch slack.
Our
illustration (on
ment (a). The shape, as is readily seen, is octagonal, and the whole of top (19 inches in diameter) can be
cut at once, if the halves are tacked together, fretted, then separated, planed, and fitted down centre. By this plan a great deal of labour will be saved, the general appearance enhanced, and the pattern through-
or
3s.,
which
will
Toconnect
a good plan
Draw lines
;
depth of
inch
and
cut to
L.
fit
into
(as
them shown in
Figs.
and connected to the top Tby pieces c. These parts, which may be screwed from the lines E downwards, and again secured to jottpm at R,'are"eight in number, and must be cut and
of deal,
may be
This
is
at
an angle.
is
The angular
ap-
ment
relieved
of the ornamental parts. Sand-paper all those surfaces which are not quite smooth, then size and varnish and, if these instruc;
considered an improvement)
tions
to,
amateur can fit the lace-work borders, H, eight of thich form a reclining enclosure. In the centre, as
the
meet
all
expectations.
576
considerations as
more than
sufficient to
prevent
with increase of
and
therefore,
Ill, RUSTING OF
first,
the
first
noticed
one
viz.,
damp upon
and
in
Now,
polishing steel
is
referred incidentally to
another
the rusting of
the strings.
The
latter
may
comment, but
whereas any
FIG.
result in
if
more
allowed to continue to form, rust may eventually succeed in eating through the strings to the extent of
so weakening them, that they cannot endure the strain, and snap. Therefore, when rust appears on the
strings,
may be
readily ridded o
rust, or
perhaps have
its
circumstances altered^
in
be cleaned
it
should,
as
formation of
positively,
am
not unaware
once be seen whether the cause of the rust is dampness generally pervading the atmospherd of the room, or whether it is dampness merely risinj
may
among manufacturers on the point, some of whom suggest that the rust may be left alone but, while I
;
should be unwilling to
insist that
from the floor. The latter is becoming of more fre. quent occurrence now that, particularly in the suburb builders more often than formerly build houses withal out basements, the joists supporting the ground-floo
A
resting
577
case of brass instru-
but
at
little
way,
if
all,
above
In the
abrading
the ground.
just
sufficient
to
parts,
and not
other
The
rubbing with
this fined
emery
taking
length
cloth should be
strument
straight
up and down,
as of
great
string
a
as
possible,
most
affected,
and
the
i.e.,
be done
in
creases
towards
above the
is
This
parts
is
se-
usually
rust.
of
the
thus,
equally
rubbing
-O-
with
by regular
The
finest
ELEVATION (2), SECTION. A, Rod B, Slit C, Screw D, Washer between Screw and Rod E, Washer between Rod and Walls of Piano F, Wall of Piano.
FIG. 7.
(i),
;
should
;
be
used.
than
is
emery,
though
all,
the
it
crocus powder,
so as
minimum.
It
has to be
is
is
per ounce.
It
should
bome
in mind, that while the primary object removal of the rust, a no less important one
the
the
a
that
particularly
it
is,
is
hygro-
A, Lever.
B,
Rod from
Pedal Levers.
FIG.
6. SECTION OF DAMPER.
A, Lath.
B, Felt.
FIG.
^
3.
IG.
damper
down
;
acts.
A,
;
C,
Hammer
D, String.
^:
FIG. 4.
~JBL
IMPROVED
PEDAL
JOINT.
578
scopic.
A
is
Care must therefore be taken that every removed from the string, and that before use it is thoroughly dried by heating either in the oven or in an iron spoon over the fire. It should go without saying that the rust be quite removed, not only from the wires, but also from their neighbourhood to wit,
particle
action
by which
is
obtained a soften-
Prevention of Rust.
because the sequence seemed so natural, but in practice it will be well to deal with the cause of the rust
before
by playing as softly as possible, is and the result is brought about by the moving slightly to the right of the upper ends of the stickers {i.e., the upright rods which spring from the inner ends of the keys, and communicate motion to the hammers), so that, instead of playing upon two wires when a key is struck, the hammers, when the soft pedal is down, only strike one; and similarly, instead of striking three strings in
known
attacking
the
rust
itself.
As
in
diseases
brought about or prejudicially affected by permanent conditions, if the rust is caused by regular dampness
is
now
in
many
pianos of a
remedy is change viz., from one room from a lower to a higher floor and if this is impracticable, or a dry atmosphere cannot be provided, there is no cure, and as fast as rust may be removed, more will form. But if the dampness only rises from beneath the boards, the remedy is easy. I the floor is very near the earth, of course an improvement would follow on the removal of a few cartloads
of
air,
the only
to another, or
by one which has obtained very large and high favour viz., the " Celeste." I do not wish to convey the impression that everyone who
better class, being replaced
enamoured of it.
former.
If
it
The
fact
is,
move-
its
it
is
not intended to
is
another plan
;
its immediate substitution where there is a different aim, the must be quite a matter for decision,
advocating
and tongued
but
fair rental.
greatly superior.
Mostly they are laid unseasoned, and edge to edge, and when dry gape. To counteract these defects, make thin slips which will perfectly fill these openings, glue their sides with thin hot glue, drive them well in, and plane down. The portion of floor thus treated should extend a foot beyond the piano in each open direction. Similarly treat any space between the floor and skirting-board. Then cover the whole with two good coats of linseed-oil varnish. If this is well done, no damp will rise. But, to make assurance doubly sure, sew together two large sheets of brown paper,
giving a lap of about an inch
;
shifting action is applied there is no gradation in volume or quality of tone between the softest sound of the natural piano and the sound when the but there is necessarily, from the pedal is down sudden break from two strings to only one, as sudden a decrease and difference in the tone. There is no bridging over this break no medium between the whole and half or whole and two-thirds, as the case may be. It is exactly this defect and as a defect I certainly regard it that the Celeste meets and sup;
plies,
All this
must be done
in
hammers and the strings a strip the hammers strike the wires with
as
so that
the
felt
intervening,
When
shown
in Fig. 9.
be laid over the prepared flooring. Relay the carpet and replace the piano, and the boards will be
There is another source of damp viz., a damp wall. Here the cause will most probably be the absence of a damp course and the readiest way of meeting this difficulty is removing the plaster on the wall, and replacing it with some impervious cement. The piano should in this case stand at some little distance from
;
is altogether one of taste and feeling, it will be proper audire alteram partem. Those who favour the old plan claim that by it one gets a beautiful harp-like tone, and decry the Celeste
as having a muffled tone. Prceterea nihil of the " Celestials " is clear and decisive
just
the reply
:
part has
the wall.
I
will
now
been indicated. Granting, for the sake of argument, the similarity between the sound of a single string struck and that of another plucked a similarity which is not perfect there is no getting over this fact, that with the old action there is no option between all
harp and
all
promised
to say
a few
piano.
;
words
viz.,
remains a piano
With the Celeste the instrument and with the slight modification
579
most experienced could detect when the action comes into play. As to the muffled tone, chacun a son gout.
It is at least as clear as
the harp.
Further than
this,
and not ignoring the fact that the soft pedal only properly comes into operation in soft movements, we
all
know
discord.
The
used
;
the pitch
what is sufficient to cover the wires. deep and \ in. thick, and fits into a slot at the upper end of each side-rod, so that the top edge of the lath is level with the end of the rod. The side-rods rest on the extreme ends of the pedal levers, to which they are attached by leather hinges and the mode of attachment will best be observed from the existing side-rod, which will be too short for use. These rods must run up quite close to the sidewalls of the piano, and their length will be such that
just a trifle over lath
is
The
l\
in.
and we have the family jars. But in the Celeste there is no partial playing all the strings are used as before. And, lastly, the lowest notes are, by the old plan, only
of one alters
more than
that of another
the upper edge of the felt will rest ordinarily 1 in below the line on which the hammers strike the strings. At about 6 in. down a mortise is cut in each rod, and this works on a l\ in. screw, driven into the sidewall.
The
is
such, that
when
hammer-edge instead of by the full whereas, in the Celeste, the hammers not being
removing the upper and lower panels and the
On
and the right-hand pedal lever removed, we have only the back, body, strings, and soft pedal lever left. At the back of the action frame there runs a strong board, which keeps the stickers and hammers in position. This is kept firm by a strong spring at the right-hand end, and at the left-hand end will be found a lever which, viewed from the back, appears as in Fig. 8. The lower left end of this lever rests on the upper end of the upright rod which springs from the side end of the pedal lever, while the upper end of it
fits
down, and the rods raised, the felt will cover the line on which the hammers strike the strings. A small circular felt washer lies between the rod and the wall, and another between the rod and the head of the screw. A strong band spring attached to the under side
the pedal
is
'HE
process of autogenous
is
soldering or
When
the pedal
is
is
welding
strictly limited to
those few
raised,
pressed
is
sideways.
With the
It
no
when
is
longer required.
removed.
The
process
From
this
it
will
be
seen that two pedal levers are required in order to support and work the two side-rods that carry the
lath to
I
termed autogenous, because the solder is self-produced that is, produced by the metal we wish to unite. We have already seen that certain alloys can be
which
is
attached the
useful.
felt.
The
united
by other
;
alloys
of
similar composition
as
description
may be
regards the metals in the alloy, and varying only in but masses of such metals as tin, their proportions
zinc,
draw down both levers, so that the division between them must be shaped accordingly. That shown in Fig. 3 is very commonly met
to
copper, silver,
melting thin strips of the same metals on their edges, nor can the thinned edges themselves be melted
together without causing a disruption of the edges or speak now, of course, from I of the whole mass.
with
but
it
it
often requires
division shown in Fig. 4 is very much better. ends where friction occurs are covered with baize, and then rubbed w^ith soap, such as yellow soap, not grease. Cottage pianos vary much in width and height, therefore particular dimensions are not of much use, but generally the height of the side-rods is determined by
The The
practical,
not
it
theoretical
point
of
view,
for
theoretically
is
and
to have successfully performed welding those metals, but, although I have myself obtained something like success in such experiments, the results were not satisfactory to me,
gold,
experiments
The damping
in.
felt is
in.
and
felt
The
length of the
because I have not been able to secure a strong joint by welding such metals together in their pure state. Copper rapidly oxidizes when heated up to and above
5 8o
a red heat
prevents
and
of
its
oxide
in
use
by
bridge-builders
and
the
unity
masses of metal. been made to prevent oxidation by dipping the cleaned parts in soap ley (obtainable from soap boilers), and then heating up on and under charcoal with a blowpipe flame. I have partially succeeded by rolling the cleaned parts in a flux of carbonate of soda paste, bedding the joint in charcoal, and acting on it with a very full coal-gas flame from a blowpipe urged by a foot blower. The
joint
boiler-makers.
bellows
others
worked by a small fan by hand, are obtainable through most tool vendors, or may sometimes be picked up at secondhand tool shops. Messrs. Rawson, Drew, and Co., 225, Upper Thames Street, London, are vendors of a superior hand - blower portable forge, made to work by wheel,
driven
treadle,
or lever.
The
following
not neat.
4 There appears to be no welding heat for silver and gold, as in heating they pass rapidly into a molten state, and break up in
SMITH S
excessive
when
Price.
the handiness
Hoods, for in. door use, extra.
is
Size of Hearth,
24 inches by 18
d.
d.
We
will
4 10
15
may,
3
3
22
Few
persons
34
of
26
have the good fortune to possess broken articles made of platinum, but to those few who may desire to
700
Street,
outfit
10
17
1
6
6
Mr. Fletcher,
also supplies
Museum
little
mend them I may say that cleaned small pieces of platinum may be welded together when heated to a
bright red heat.
will assist
a neat
follows
Strong double bellows blower Large blowpipe Hearth, tongs, shovel, two pokers
6
ft. 1
s.
d.
little salt
IS 7
in more speedily promoting union of the by forming an alloy with platinum, and the excess of antimony may be driven off by heating the
parts
India-rubber tubing
O O O
o
joint to whiteness.
The
of iron
ll
This
outfit
widely known, and there are few towns or villages in which the blacksmith's forge cannot be
may be used
This being the case, readers who may wish to learn how to weld iron will do well to visit the village blacksmith and observe his mode of working. The
found.
requisite tools
are a
forge,
small iron work for welding, or may be used to heat up work for brazing. The size of the hearth is 15 by 18 inches, and coal or coke may be burnt on it, or gas may be burnt with the latter, the blowpipe being adapted for that purpose. If the forge is to be
hand-hammer
(Fig.
47)
The
flue
weighing about a pound, or a little over this weight, and a swage, or two, if more than one shaped section of iron has
from
ried
this
into
On
my
last
article,
may be used
and,
able,
if
the forge
stone,
is
built of brick or
iron-
bound it is, therefore, a permanent structure, and one unlikely to be imitated by the $ amateur. He will require a '*:l28'?22i&r ^ FIG. 51. DISPOSAL OF JOINT
portable forge, such as those
,
the vapour from the petroleum gas generator may be used with coke instead of
FIG.
52. SHAVE-HOOK.
gas.
The anvil usually found 53. LEAD JOINT SHAVED FOR BURNING. in a smith's forge will be
FIG.
58i
seen to be too heavy for the amateur, but smaller anvils can be obtained, as they are made in different
sizes
will
iron.
lbs.
and upwards.
The
price
generally fixed at so
much
ing to the
price per
make and
ranging from 5d. to "d. per pound ; but tools at a less pound can sometimes be picked up at a
must be firmly fixed on a heavy block it to the required height, and this block is usually bedded in the floor, or secured to it by iron clamps. If the anvil is bedded in sand or in sawdust, the sound of the blows will be much deadened thereby. The stump of a tree will make an excellent block. This should be cut to such a length as to
anvil
The
The tongs observed in a well-appointed smith's shop are many and various but for most of the purposes of welding coming within the province of an amateur, two pairs of the following size will be found sufficient Jaws, 3 in. long by i\ in. in width, by J in. thick, with i in. to f in. groove in width, and f in. depth, running lengthwise through centre of jaws ;
;
:
of wood, to raise
handles, 18
will
in.
long, of
in.
iron.
Figs. 41
and 42
forges, a small iron trough is included, to hold the water needed in all smithing operations for damping the fire and cooling
the tools
and
iron
although not
so
the anvil to
the
handy
for
hips
of
the purpose.
the
work-
man.
it
1
Some
o
persons like
that
wer
of slack
coal.
or
than this,
and
higher
this
smith's small
others
;
This
but
has been
found to be a convenient
height
light
and
stones,
from
for
for
work.
surface
the
brassy
con-
The
of
specks
the
top
tain sulphur,
of the block
and
TOOLS USED IN SMITH'S WORK.
Fig. 41.
this
iron
should
for the
be
base
ruins
broad enough
of the anvil
Smith's Tongs. Fig. 42. Jaw of Tongs. Fig. 43. Top Swage. Fig. 44. Bottom and Swages. Fig. 45. Top Hard Chisel or Sett. Fig. 46. Bottom Hard Chisel. Fig. 47.
Smith's
Fig. 50.
steel,
Fig. 49.
and
this
must be secured
iron
to the
block by staples,
the
block, as
difficult
to
or strong
hooks,
driven
into
shown
and
2
in Fig. 40.
The
scrupulously clean of clinker and metal, scales of iron, and dirt of all kinds. Avoid heating soldering-irons
in the fire
strictly
taboo
all
from the
fire,
hand
left-
and
also
beware of galvanized
of the workman.
hand
side of the anvil. This is for the tangs of the swages (Figs. 43 and 44), useful tools for shaping the They are made in iron after it has been welded. various sizes, and with grooves of a size and Both top and shape to suit the work in hand. bottom swages are used in finishing weldings, the top swage being held in an iron or twisted hazel handle, whilst an assistant strikes it with a heavy
The joint most in general use for iron and steel, when these have to be welded, is the lap-joint shown
in sketch,
joint
although occasions will arise where a buttbut these are difficult, and should not be attempted by amateurs. will therefore
is
necessary
We
take for illustration a simple bar of iron broken in the middle, and proceed to mend it. Heat up the two
pieces to a white heat in the fire, take each out, and " dump " or upset them, hot end downward, on the anvil face, to cause the appearance shown in Fig. 48
hammer.
46)
is
hard
to
chisel,
fit
also
made
in the
dumped ends
5*1
the shape the
fire.
and return the pieces to dumping or upsetting is to cause the iron to thicken at the joint, and thus make material to swage down to shape after the joint is made. If the ends are not dumped, the joint will be too thin to swage until it has been thickened by dump-
To weld
The
object of
same
fire,
particular attention
must be given
heating.
It
avoid over-
thinned to lap one over the other, and thus present Turn large surfaces of iron to the welding process.
should be mentioned here that steel is an alloy of carbon with iron, that this alloy will melt at a
iron,
less
expose them to equal heat, and, when both have passed from a white to a dazzling white heat, and have commenced to fizz
the pieces frequently in the
fire,
to
lower temperature than burn out of the steel at iron, leaving that metal
dition.
in a
them quickly
from the
an assistant, direct him to lay the scarfed burning end on the anvil, and hold it there. Take the other piece in your left hand, place the scarfed end on that being held on the anvil
fire,
to
hammer
above a creamy yellow. How can we do same fire ? By simply protecting the heated end of the steel with a substance that will prevent burning out of the carbon. This substance may be silica in the form of silicated sand, or calcium in the form
heating
this in the
on the top of the pieces over the intended joint, then once or twice on each side, and return to the fire Heat up again to a white heat, and this together. time well hammer the joint to make it round, and turn it will then probably assume it frequently on the anvil the form shown in Fig. 50. If we wish to make the joint round or square and smooth like the rest of the These bar, we must resort to the use of swages. are blocks of iron grooved to certain sizes, round or
;
of
its
crystallized
carbonate.
flinty
Procure, then,
some
it
silver
sand, or instead of
or
with this
hot enough to be
fire,
welded.
Then snatch
smartly
brush the silicated coating off with a bunch of twigs and weld up at once to the iron as before directed for
iron.
cornered
is
one block
is
swage,
may be welded
a sufficiency of
together by pay-
of corresponding size
and pattern,
;
is
on the top of the iron an assistant strikes the top swage with a heavy hammer or sledge, whilst the
smith moves
until the joint
it
and employing
powdered lime-
welding heat.
steel is
Remember
bottom swage.
rest of the bar.
Thus the bar is heated and swaged, is round, and nearly as smooth as the
When
thus finished,
we
a creamy yellow, and that the coat of flux must be brushed from the joint before it is struck with the hammer success will then follow in welding all kinds
;
bar a little shorter than it was before it was broken. This is due to the iron burnt away during the operation of welding, and, although to a certain extent
unavoidable,
it
of steel.
In working a
that the
fire will
fire for
welding iron
it
will
be noticed
show a tendency
to spread
beyond
to the
heat the iron more times than necessary not to overheat it, and to waste no time in the process, but
strike whilst the iron is hot.
If
Confine
it
proper area by sprinkling the bed of ashes around it with water. The fire will also get dirty from an ac-
no
assistant,
rivet
he
may punch
cumulation of iron scale, ashes, impurities in the coal, and the flux above mentioned. These will collect as clinkers below the tuyere, and must be occasionally
pulled out with the bent point of the poker or cleared
He must
on the bottom swage alone. Hazel handles are more comfortable than iron ones, because the iron jars the hand; and seasoned hazel sticks, \ in. in diameter,
are easily twisted in the middle, and
the
When
wound around neck of the swage, the two ends being held together in an iron link. A boy's iron hoop will give some good practice in welding, for a man must be smart to properly weld a little article such as this.
be grasped by the hand without the aid of tongs, the ends to be grasped are kept cool with water, and tongs Leather aprons are employed by are dispensed with.
smiths as a protection to their clothing against the
sparks of the fizzing iron, but the amateur
may
pro-
soaked
in
583
of Lead.
This
process
amateur metal workers, but is at the same time one of those processes which must be rightly placed beyond their province, for it is most difficult to learn, and its performance is always attended with an element
of danger.
I
to
be
The
cylinder
must have
and enough
shall therefore
be a wood mallet, a
(Fig. 52), an apparatus for generating hydrogen gas, a blowpipe and foot blower, and some
lengths
first
of india-rubber pipe.
The
upon by
and air, until the lead edges melt and unite together. Hydrogen is generated in the apparatus by dilute sulphuric acid acting on fragments of zinc, and the gas thus produced is delivered under pressure to the blowpipe.
The danger
consists in
liability
(through
and air
in the generator,
and
firing this
by a backward
rush of flame from the blowpipe. The difficulty in using the apparatus consists in adjusting the air
pressure from the blower to the pressure of hydrogen
in
under a
first-class
workman
art.
Lead united by autogenous soldering has several advantages over lead joints made by the ordinary methods of soft soldering. Apart from the value of
such joints
acids
in
in lead vessels
But before we thus bed it we by pasting one or two thicknesses of strojig brown paper over the seam on the outside to the width of two or three inches also paste two strips of brown paper one inch wide along the seam on the inside, allowing 5 inch between two strips on the edge of the inside lap. This paper will prevent the sand from sticking to the hot lead. When the paper is dry, bed the cylinder as above directed, and proceed to form the runner on the inside of the seam. This " runner" is a channel for the hot lead to run in along the seam. To form the runner, take a straight smooth lath inch thick and inch wide, the length of the cylinder, and lay this along by the inner edge of the seam on the clean lead between the strips of paper, with one of its edges uppermost. Now bed the lath firmly in this position with moulding sand (Fig. 51), and bank up the sand on each side to the width of three inches. When this has been done, withdraw the lath and leave a clear channel free from sand straight along the seam into this dust a little finely-powdered resin. Next prepare a pond with sand or clay at the bottom of the runner to receive the molten lead, and then proceed to melt several pounds' weight of lead in a spouted iron ladle. Continue
keep the cylinder
fix
firm.
must
the laps
securely
is
not only
all
chemical
soldered lead joints are liable to disruption from extreme changes of temperature, from galvanic action in acidulated and mineral waters, and from acid vapours. I often experience inconvenience from soft soldered joints exposed to the acid vapours arising from galvanic batteries those vapours attack the tin in soft solder, and render it soft as putty. This inconvenience could be met by autogenous soldering where lead connections are used, or joints made as in some forms of storage cells.
;
dark or above the melting point of lead then proceed at once to pour it down the runner. The superfluous metal will collect in the pond below. Pour steadily for a moment or two, then
in the feel
the
seam
lath
;
at
if
smooth
enough.
seam
;
feels
if
hot
now be stopped
A
known
technically
pour on some more, until the runner then allow it to cool. The red-hot lead will partly melt the edges of the seam, and these will unite with the molten lead to form a firm joint.
sometimes resorted to where the form of the joint will admit of the process being employed. We will suppose the joint to be a seam on one side of a cylindrical lead vessel; we then proceed as follows Well scrape the edges of the seam until quite a quarter of an inch from each edge is made bright (Fig. 53). Overlap those bright edges and bed the cylinder in sand on an inclined plane, to allow
:
When
the joint
is
The above
is
584
ciples underlying the process.
may
wood
sent
by parcels post
for
be applied
1st,
arrangements being made to well clean the edges of the joint by scraping
to other jobs
; ;
small sum.
them bright
to
them seam
3rd,
bed the
article firmly in
sand
in
such a manner as
the
into
down
For ebony carving the amateur requires smaller and more delicate tools than for the style of work I have previously described. There are two ways of getting these tools either by making them, or by procuring Until very lately I have made them ready made.
pond below 4th, to form a clean runner along the seam 5th, to have the melted lead red hot at the time of pouring, and to pour it along the runner until the seam is melted smooth then, 6th, to stop the molten metal from running into the pond, and fill up
; ;
what small
tools
It was, is but a thankless job. however, a case of necessity with me, as although 1 had applied to several manufacturers of edge tools, none would undertake the job unless I gave an order
every appliance,
This series of articles on "Brazing and Soldering" In them I have sought to lead my is now completed. readers along by instructions illustrating the principles underlying the various processes, rather than by
giving detailed directions for doing certain
I
named
jobs.
some steel them in the gas, and with the aid of a hammer and two or three files work them into the necessary shape, and found I afterwards harden and sharpen them. method
of procedure
My
was
to get
have to thank correspondents for sundry useful hints given from time to time, and also for words of encouragement. If I have omitted to mention the use of
it
difficult in
many
any material or soldering appliance, it is either because I have not tried it myself, or do not know of any person who has tried it, or I have mentioned some other more simple and effective. This applies
specially to
To make
tice,
a considerable
._/
._
"
b'
^
.
on my I do not know
the complaints respecting an omission part to mention " Baker's Soldering Fluid."
it,
and think
it
cannot be procured as
be
made by
=+=
VI,
-EBONY CARVING.
in this
PROPOSE
of
^a ' the amateur will do v " .. by writing or calling on V Mr. A. S. Lunt, 297, Hackney Q E c Road, E., and give him a sketch FIG 34 . carving of the size and shape of the tools for ebony work ACTUAL SIZE. T Mr. Lunt re- a, Straight Tools B, Bent tools required. cently made some small carving Toottools to my written order, and it is but justice to state that they proved most satisfactory both for temper and shape, whilst the price was most moderate as far as I can remember, I only paid at the rate of sixpence each, and the tools were handled as well. Tools for ebony carving require to be of good temper, otherwise if they are too hard
of cases,
better
.
g^S, Eg
small ebony work, and to give a description of some of the extra tools
required for this kind of work by the
they will notch or snap, and. if too soft the edge will turn, and clean cutting is rendered impossible. With these small tools, which are, of course, not
also
intend
and
bracelets,
in
ebony
will
bear
be used with a mallet for "roughing in" purposes, but simply for finishing off delicate work, shoulders are not necessary. The whole length
intended to
of the tool should be about 4 inches, being 1 inch inserted into the handle, which should be of small
would supply
is
at
a reasonable price.
I
This wood
It
have
for
it.
frequently paid as
much
as a shilling per
pound
The handles and about 4 inches in length. should be small in diameter, and of nearly the same thickness, and either plain turned or octagonal. It will also be found more convenient to have the handles of different colours or shapes, so that they
size,
can be obtained either in blocks, or planed to any given thickness, and for carving purposes it will be better to obtain it planed to the required thickness.
may
as owing to the slight variation in the size of the tools it is not so easy to pick up the one required by
Thanks
to
the
new
postal
regulations,
it
will
be
itself.
585
brooch.
The
and sweeps
that
will
ebony
be
for these
of a few of the
tools
designs
should planed to
be found most
useful,
the thickness of
but
in
about \ of an
inch, unless
it is
addition a very
small
or
parting
tool,
desired to
the
in very
lief,
make
re-
and
work appear
bold
tainable veiner,
will
be required.
The
veiner
veiner cannot possibly be too small, as if a large is used it gives a coarse appearance to the
Great care will be required in sharpening the veiner and parting tool, but a slip of fine cutting stone can be filed to a feather edge and used for the purpose,
FIG. 38. BROOCH IVY LEAVES. an inch would be required. A piece of thin white paper should be pasted on the ebony, and the outline to be fret cut (as in Figs. 36, 39), traced upon it. After being fret cut, glue down the ebony to a piece of deal, taking care to insert between the ebony and
when an ad-
ditional I of
and
it
of the tool
The
now
on
(as
foliage,
etc.
The
cutting
be traced on the face of the brooch, and the superfluous wood cut away, and the background regulated with a small router, so as to be of uniform
depth.
edge
seen in Fig.
34, c)
forms three
In setting in
the
outlines
some
little
practice to
skilfully
work
used
it
properly, but
when
When this is done, use a quick tool to rough in the leaves and to show the course of the stem,
regulating the
outlines
afterwards
and similar
designs
to
work.
I
have given
with
of
lilies
two
for
brooches,
one
RING LILY OF of the valley, Figs. 35, THE VALLEY. 36, 37, and the other of ivy leaves, Figs. 38, 39, 40. It will, perhaps, be better to commence with the
ear-rings
match
EAR-
is
the chief
and the amateur will find it convenient to have a The few of the natural ivy leaves before him. rough appearance is given to the stem by means of
the veiner, parting tool, and a small flat tool. The next thing to do is to punch the groundwork, regulate
the fret cut outlines of the design,
than the
lilies of the valley. Both brooches are intended to show a groundwork in the centre, and not to be cut through. Of course the centres could be
and put
in the
but
think
it
These points
necessary veins of the leaves. The brooch can now be taken up and the glue
cleaned off the
are
always
in
or
catching
something
the other,
back.
edges
of
The
the
and
de;
leaves require to
are apt to
fret cutting
has the
of giving
when we
consider
may
the
a lighter appearFIG.
brooch
to
be
far
35. BROOCH
fig. 39..
ance
tO
the
finished, so
86
FERNERIES
the carving
in
is
THEM.
is
as
concerned.
large to
make a
viz.,
except
it
a very few
instances, be polished,
if
as
recom-
boiled linseed
hard brush, which has been slightly moistened with oil. The earrings are carved in exactly
4 in. long, 15 in. wide, and 2 ft. 6 in. high, the water-line forming the height of the aquatic
mended,
ft.
part being
in.
The
distinctive
in the
the
by
grown
upper part of the case, in rustic rockwork, Fig. 22, the lower and arched part of which stands in the aquarium.
pairs.
The framework
of the case
is
made
entirely of
up of the brooch and earrings had better be left to a jeweller, although the amateur can easily do what is necessary if he feels so disposed. The brooch pins and catches can be bought for a few pence from any working jeweller, and with the small veiner the amateur can make the holes in the back of the brooch to admit the pins of the catch. A little powdered shellac should be sprinkled in the holes, and the pins heated in the gas and then placed in position, when owing to the melting of the shellac
fitting
The
base of No. 31 bar, the uprights of No. 46 angle bar, the shoulder of No. 1 1, and the top frame of No. 8.
bar zinc
It will be seen that the centre of the top forms a narrow oblong ventilator, which may be fitted with loose pieces of glass, so as to be regulated or with a length of perforated zinc, which would always be open. The latter plan is recommended. This ventilator is ornamented with zinc fret, No. 54. The amateur will probably find the making of the top part of this fernery somewhat difficult, on account of its sloping towards the centre from all sides, the amateur usually failing to get the four slopes all of the same angle, and consequently the whole thing gets awry. A little extra carefulness and perseverance will, however, enable this and all other difficulties to
;
the
they
will
be firmly
fixed.
lilies
With
respect to the
of the valley,
it
will
be
drawing of them
to
copy from, as
it
Very little trouble will be experienced, I think, by the amateur in making these brooches, etc., from ebony,
the only disadvantage
brittle,
is
be surmounted.
that this
to carve.
The
good
in this case,
designs
readers,
probably suggest
jet
themselves
called
my
and so
bog oak
It will
be as
had intended
an ebony
must defer
it
until
my
next
when
and
making the top, so as to save time in the setting of the cement. For this purpose, measure carefully the front and back frames,
well to glaze the lower part before
ebony jewellery bears a strong resemblance to the bog oak ornaments, so frequently seen in all Irish towns, and upon close examination it will be found that they are identically alike, bog oak and ebony being in the matter of ornaments convertible terms. (To be continued?)
will
My
readers
find
that
this
carved
FERNERIES
and then the ends. Glass which is known as 32 oz. be required, and that of the best quality and as The best cement to set it in with is flat as possible. prepared as follows Get 3 lbs. of ordinary putty, 2 lbs. fine whiting, ground dry to a powder, J lb. of red lead, and mix up the whole with sufficient gold that is, ahout the size to form a paste easy to work consistency of bakers' dough. Use plenty of elbow Set in the large squares grease in working it up. first, and then the ends, smearing the edges of the glass about half an inch with gold size, for the purpose
will
:
Be
careful in pressing
DOSAID BEDE.
FERNERIES FOR INTERIOR DECORATION, SOMEWHAT novel and very interesting method of growing ferns in connection
with an aquarium
is
and the less between the glass and frame, consistent with its being fairly bedded in, the better. This being done, form the bottom by running into
into
its
home
position,
cement
left
stiff
batter of cement,
made
of twoset,
Roman and
form a
fit,
one-third Portland.
When
a design
made by the
;
this will
its
first-rate
some seasons
be made up
to
may
perfect
is
When
dry,
any dimensions
just scrape
away
FERNERIES:
will
THEM.
eight
587
and strengthen
This
will
the
be
this
subsequently
filled
with
copal
varnish
cement.
give you
when With
end
aquarium aside
dry-
growing ferns, as shown in Fig. 25. This rockery should be sparingly coloured with paint made of copal
varnish, coloured with dry colour.
Your aqua-fernery
any
live
is
now complete
but before
is
Meantime, proceed to make the top. Fig. 23 shows the same in plan. The No. 8 bar zinc will
require a
little
in,
thoi-oughly seasoned
preparation before
these
must be gone through, if you wish to have a su'cessful and flourishing colony. The rockwork is not intended to be fixed in the tank, so that no dirt need be
can be put right by hammeting on a piece of squareedged iron. Then make up the lower part of the frame so as to fit loosely on the top of the aquarium
;
made
which
therein
is
when planting
ferns, etc.
Fig. 26
is
if it fits tightly
is
done,
it is
very
The amateur
awkward
to take off.
carefully,
Hav-
same
in
dimension.
Then
make
l6i
in.
by 2j
in.,
form a
half-circle
then
fit
your framework
to
it,
complete.
is
which
will
be scarcely
in, will
necessary.
by using
plaster, as above,
and
finishing off
is
when dry
zinc
box
grow
obtained. This
being done, paint the case to your taste (a rich chocois recommended, with gold lines); strain the paint
being damaged, or the setting disturbed. In selecting your tiles, carefully avoid any and every shade of green.
prevent the
tiles
through fine muslin, as the zinc being non-absorbent, every little grit shows. Finish with a coat of best
copal varnish, giving the
inside, at
all
com-
the angles
where the water touches, two or three coats, thoroughly drying each one before the other is put on.
appearance of a ruined temple of a hexagonal form, and, being plastered with tinted cement of a somewhat
irregular surface,
is
made
very attractive.
The
roof of
of the
Now for
First
make a
skeleton
frame, Fig. 24, by soldering together pieces of zinc bar; crooked or faulty pieces will answer this purpose.
down one
Length of frame, 18
ditto ends, 8 inches.
in.;
height at centre,
21
in.
falls,
so
Tack
we have a
Now
method already
and complete in itself, requiring no fixing or water supply beyond what is contained in the roof. Its
action water,
is
it
In making the arches use a core of cardboard to support the pieces of cemented coke
as irregular
as follows
The
runs
down
withdraw the cores, and make the arch and rustic as possible. Now get some flower-pots, which must be covered with paper (see page 206). Put one on each end of frame, and tie one at back and front in the centre leaning forward, taking care that the bottoms do not
reach within 8
in.
water
is
exhausted.
The
reservoir
is
then emptied at
and the waterreturned to the roof tank, The space all round between the reservoii
is
much
im-
waterline. When these are in position and set, place two others in the centre, with the mouths facing the ends cement these in carefully. Then, back and front, in the centre of these two, but high enough to allow room to get at the lower one, tie another, which Afterwards withdraw all set in the same manner.
;
proved by growing some small-leaved ivy, and trailing the same up the pillars. The construction of this interesting and attractive ornament presents no more difficult task than an ordinary amateur may be expected successfully to deal with for this purpose
.
some sheet zinc, compo pipe, some and some cement and sand, being
f-iii.
zinc
tube
all
that will be
5 83
FERNERIES:
THEM.
FIG. 23.
21.
9 .GJjD
FIG 25.
FERNERIES.required.
THEM.
effect
589
or
may be made, of any dimension, but one that I have just completed appears to answer very well,
It
otherwise
course, to
depend
entirely
upon the
quality
viz.,
height, 22
;
in.
width of
sides, 6 in.
the
ferns
un-
not clumsy.
It
is
FIG. 28.
PLAN OF EASE OF FERN TEMPLE WITH CIRCUMSCRIBED CIRCLE, SHOWING HOW TO FIND HEXAGON.
circle
1
masonry as the last The work will require a little tinting, which is best done by using shades of
coat
is
setting.
in.,
and mark a
lours in boiled
Fig. 29
is
oil,
brown, brightened in patches with mossy tints. Use dry cowhich will dry "dead" on the cement,
whose radius
lines
is
the
same
a design in woodwork, embodying the principle of the well-known " Oxford " picture frame,
between these points, and cut to the lines then up, solder on the band to the required dimensions. The upper vessel will be ii in. larger in diameter, the six pillars being soldered on at the corners, and covered at the base with zinc bent square, to imitate a plinth, which I believe is the correct architectural term for this part of a pillar. This base is then attached to a
;
and
to
make
vellously cheap.
be found very easy of construction, and marAs will be seen in the illustration, it consists of two Oxford frames, which form the back
will
and front, the angle uprights of light zinc bar being attached with small screws to the frames, the top and bottom being connected by horizontal straight bars of
wood, the growing part (a zinc tray) at base being covered on the glass with paper imitation
of
downwards
embossed
is
leather.
The
top
oz.
i an
is
cover
glass,
a loose piece of 21
slides,
which
as
and may
birdcage
for
etc.,
further attached to a
flat
piece
be
of zinc of the
stand,
tuettes,
shown,
or
staetc.
bric-a-brac,
The
by a piece of |-in. compo pipe soldered on to the top vessel, and passed through any one of
the pillars (see Fig. 28); arid another piece of the same ma-
The woodwork is in. in thickness, and when made up looks surprisingly light the wood
;
Fig. 29
connected with the centre vessel will provide for drawing off the water to recharge the
terial
rounded
off
with
file
and
top.
The
roof
is
formed of an
afterwards sand-papered.
The
pattern
a piece of perforated
anyone
of
zinc should
be soldered to this opening, and a piece of fine muslin used to prevent any
dirt getting to the jet.
work
the the
FIG. 29.
w^
and they will be found to ample room for selection \^^. for any position or rooms within
tion
;
afford
QOOrS.
(
To
be continued.)
59<>
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
NOTES ON NOVELTIES.
HAVE received
Darton,
don,
rr.icle,
is
when
No. 305
(is.),
a Fancy Epergne,
bold and
&
and may be utilized for many purposes. No. 301 a Whatnot, with three shelves, is well conceived and carried out and the same may be said of No. 307 (n.),
good,
(is. 3d.),
;
work, by Mr. H. C. Standage, a well-known writer on art subjects, the author of " Chemistry in Practice," "
the Fine Arts,"
a Folding Screen
No. 308 (2s. ), a Combination Cabinet ; 310 (is.), Wall Mirrors, Screens, and Brackets; and No. 312 (is.) a Corner Etagure. When combined with a little carving, to give expression to the
Bracket;
No.
"Notes on
ing,"
Artists'
work,
all
Selection and Arrangement of Pictures for a Dwelling-House " works to which I venture to call atten-
"The
them
and there
is
little
risk of disap-
am sure that there are many Amateur Work to whom one or the other of
tion here, as I
rei lers
of
show
that
it
the n
may
reduce
this to a
minimum.
My
prove useful as a reliable book of reference on the subject treated. The book before me if I may call it a book is
Table of Pigments, showing their Composition, Conditions of Permanency, Non-permanency, Effects in Combination with other and Adulterations
entitled
Artist's
;
" The
me
mode of adornment is introduced. Mr. James Walsh, 5, Marina Terrace, Cork, has also sent specimens of his skill as a designer of fretwork, and will
Amateur Work
the benefit of
Pigments and Vehicles, and giving the Most Reliable Tests for Purity," is sold at Is., and is very cheap at the price, when the value of its contents is considered, and the industry and practical knowledge displayed by the author in
collecting the facts
it
The
patterns to which
6d.), a
were
and information, and focussing them, as bringing them together, so as to be easy of access
(is.),
anyone who may require to consult them, without that loss of time which inevitably occurs when they have to be hunted up from many and various sources. The brochure
to
(6d.),
Motto:
"Be
Carte-de-Visite
Frame
Of
two are most elaborate and beautiful examples of fret-cutting, and I only regret that the cost of engraving,
which would be considerable, prevents
for
it
is
this
in.
rather than a
by 10 in., tabular matter and a dedication to Sir Frederick Leighton, P.R.A., who, in a letter to the author, written when the book was yet in embryo, says " I think your idea is an extremely good one, and if it is carried out so as to convey the results of the most recent investigations in the matter of pigments, you will have rendered a real service to artists." There are six tables, the colours treated being classified as White Pigments, Green Pigments, Blue Pigments, Vellow Pigments, Red Pigments, and Brown and Black Pigments
suring
i6J
:
me
but
from accepting
can
assure
if
to
me
for
insertion
those of
my
readers
who
they
purchase these designs they will find them well worth the
money and
not
suitable for
making fancy
articles,
which could
fail to attract
attention at fancy
fairs,
bazaars, etc.
The
and triangular top mounted on a platform or dais composed of three steps, and flanked by two wings in fretwork resembling in some measure the rood screen frequently
found
in
about 1S0 different kinds of colouring matter being considered under these headings. Owing to its size, it is a
old
churches,
especially
Devonshire churches,
awkward to use and I venture to suggest to author and publishers the desirability of reducing it to one-half, by folding the pages in the centre and binding them after the manner of an atlas, putting them into a stiff cover for better preservation. I consider Mr. Standage's work so useful,
little
;
Under the which yield to none in architectural beauty. canopy may be placed a statuette. That in the photograph before me appears to be one of the Ever-blessed Redeemer.
In the Jaunting Car every part
is
compered of panels
in
my
copy in
this
way, so that
may be
able
when finished, a beautiful model of one of these -vehicles. The prevailing ornament in Mr. Walsh's designs, as may be
supposed, is the shamrock ; but I never saw more happily introduced into work of this
regard to the wings of the miniature
well
if
to
keep
it
my
book-
the
shamrock
shelves.
kind.
With
have sent
altar,
me
several
sheets are
of their
new
made on
terns,
which
noteworthy for
for boldness
of purpose, for
purpose of a screen or
astical character.
any building of an
ecclesi-
and breadth of treatment. Space would fail me to dwell on each and all of them but I may call attention to No. 314 (o.d.), a Japanese Hanging
;
Bracket,
whose
circular
shape
is
novel,
and
its
general
portioned
XXXIII. of "The Journal of Decorative Art;" a Monthly Technical Journal for the House Painter, Decorator, and all Art Workmen. The price of each monthly part is 7d. The part now before me contains some excellent alphabets
Part
in imitation of sign writing.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
AMATEURS
IN COUNCIL.
pinched for space, and could therefore make the soundboards 6 feet long and wide in proportion, so as to allow plenty of speaking room for the pipes, and they will sound very much better. If the pedal pipes are placed on each side of the organ, the case would be about 7 feet 9 inches wide, 4 feet deep, and 10 feet high, but could be got in a less space by allowing less speaking room. The organ would be better situated if placed in the centre of one end of the room instead of in a corner as proposed. As a schoolroom is liable to sudden changes of temperature, give all the pipes at least two coats of oil paiut and two coats of varnish inside and out, and allow them to get thoroughly dry and hard before the instrument is brought into use. The bellows should be made as large as you have room for under the soundboards. Composition pedals arc not really needed in so small an instrument, but will be described in a subsequent article. The height of the mouth of stopt diapason should be taken to centre of arched lip, and that of the Lieblich Gedacht may be anything from one quarter to one half. H. S. (Alfnton) Tour soundboard, as described, would be large enough for an " oboe " stop, making a slider the same size as for the open diapason. The holes through the stoppers need only be regulated as regards diameter. As regards the quality of spotted metal pipes, it may vary considerably, according to the amount of tin used. Where the spots are very wide apart there is a minimum of tin, where they are close together and coalesce with each other there is a maximum, and the latter are the best pipes. If more tin were used, the spots would be absent. Organist. mixture of three ranks is a set of three rows of pipes all on one slider or worked by one stop knob, and they sound notes above the unison tone, according to the figures printed against them in the
59 1
H. A. The longest pipe of the keraulophon is six scales smaller than the open diapason Tenor C, that is the same diameter as the F sharp of that stop. The CC flute will be the same diameter as the C sharp open diapason, and the CC flageolet the same diameter as the D 1 open diapason. J. C. H. (Waterloo Rood). The directions
as to gluing the pallets are quite correct, and the glue touching the leather over the pallet tends to secure the return of the pallet
[The Editor reserves to himself the right of refosiDgarepJy to any question that may be frivolous or inappropriate, or devoid of general interest. Correspondents are requested to bear in mind that tfceirqufries will be answered only in the pages of the Magazine, The information sought being supplied for the benefit of its readers generally as well as for those who have a special interest in obtaining it. In no case can any reply be sent by poet-]
Interchange of Supplements. The readers of Ahattub Wohe will remember that by an unfortunate mistake on
the part of the hinder, the Supplement illustrative of the "Fancy Jardiniere," which should have "been given with the present Part, was sent out with Part XXI. for August, instead of the Design, and Working Drawings to Scale of the " Combination Saw
of
whf n released, and to prevent any escape wind at the tail end when closed.
J. L. (Kinross).
Youcanmakeakeybonrd
your harmonium by following generally the instructions given for the orcan keyboard in Part X. You will only require
for
Part XXI.
far as
it is possible to do so, by giving; in this month's Part the Supplement illustrating- the different parts of the " Combination
Saw Stand," and the method of putting them together. Our readers will kindly
hear in mind that the descriptive letterpress referring to the "Combination Saw Stand" is to be found in page 491 of this volume, or. in other words, in the August Part, and that the directions for making the " Fancy Jardiniere," issued in error with the August Part, are included in the present Part for October, 1883, which completes Volume II. As the Part to which each Supplement belongs is clearly stated on the Supplement itself, no confusion can arise in binding the "Volume.
the keys about half the length there described, and instead of having a centre pin you have a pin at the extreme back end. The keys act by merely pressing on the heads of the screws on the pallet levers. A. G-. (Manchester). The soundbonrd shown in Fig. 5 of the Pupplement is for a single manual, and though it might be made with more pipes, it would rot be more useful than the small two manual. The bass notes of all the stops are, as before stated, the largest pipes in those stops. You could get the whole organ in the space you men-
tion.
C. T. (Chester).
All
may
be
made
Oboe and
Organ
Building-.
F. S. (A&ern). The organs may be placed on any pressure you like, bat 1| or 2 inch
cornopean are reed stops, and I should not advise an amateur to attempt to make them. Dulciana is really a small-scaled open diapason, and maybe three or four scales smaller than that stop, and should be very delicately voiced. A metal or paper principal would be better than a wood one.
It is quite practicable to
make
a slider
on
wind
is sufficient
for
chamber organs.
The
subject of pressure will be fully explained in article on voicing and tuning. pESsBErET (Clapham). The sample of paper enclosed would do for medium-sized pipes, but all those above 18 inches long should be made of stouter brown paper, of which an excellent quality for the purpose, 4 feet 6 inches wide, can be purchased in your neighbourhood, viz., at " Dean's," stationers, Wandsworth Koad, for 2s. 3d. per dozen yard3. Cartridge paper * s D ^st for small pipes, and is easier to work, as it lays so smooth. Your specification will do, but wonld be improved by carrying the open diapason down to CC (8 feet long), and these large pipes would form an effective front to hide the swell-box from view. The scale for open diapason should be 5 inches diameter for CC, and 2? inches for Tenor C, and the pipes of the other stops should be made the requisite number of scales smaller, as described in Part XIL. If you hare already
descrix>tion.
Their use
is to
give fulness
where it is necessary to sustain where there are many stops. They are out of place in so small an organ as ours. "Prepared," as applied to wood, means planed and cut to size if applied to an instrument in connection with the stops, it means that a slider is placed and pierced
to the tone voices, or
;
ready for a set of pipes that may be purchased and inserted at a future time. Would-be Oeganibt. Your scales are correctly drawn so far as they go, but the flute should be placed on the left-hand side of the scale, as the longest pipe (CC) is The CC of the flageolet only 4 feet long. If you follow my suggestion is 2 feet long. of making each stop so many scales larger or smaller than the open diapason for the same length of pipe, you will not go wrong. I wish you every success in your endea-
the front cheek of the soundboard, but it would be very unwise to do so as it would weaken the soundboard. Gttixlahus. The stops you mention as being priced at 6d. each are merely the stop knobs. W. S. (Newburgh) . The pipes of the scales given in my article would do very well as a substitute for your damaged wood stopt diapason. A complete open .diapason would be preferable to the pipes you mention, but the others could be substituted, though the result would not be so satisfactory. The best test for the depth of voicing is the sound given by the pipe itself; do not cut too deep at first, but try the pipe on a shallow voicing, and you will soon see what is required. The specimen of paper enclosed is too soft to give good
results.
made any
pipes,
vours.
J. S.
H. H.D. B. (Blundcllsands). Your second method of making the pipes with inverted mouths is the correct one. J. H. (Romerlon) writes : You will be
,
larger scale bycutting down at the top so that they speak the note indicated by their dia-
M.
(Kensington).
Ivories
for keys
17, Charter-
meter on the
scale.
suitable for a schoolroom than a keraulopbon. Allow a slider the same width as the
house Street, Eolborn, from about 8s. to 12s. per set of five octaves. You need not cut
is
pleased to hear thnt I have been successful in making a stop (flageolet) of paper pipes, building frame, bellows, wind-chest, soundboard, and sliders, for five stops, and am just about to plant the stop I have finished, on the sound-board.
H.! H. B. (Glasgow). The extra size of the scale would account for the pipe having to be cut shorter to get the right tone but yon should not cut your pipes so inuch as a semitone sharp.
;
gamba
in a subsequent article.
twelfth weald be an improvement, as I assume the organ is intended to sustain a lirge number of voices. As the organ is for a schoolroom, I presume you are not
E. H. (Keswick) .Ivories for the keys maybe cut to size with a fine tenon saw, and polished with a damp linen pad, and finely-powdered pumice-stone. Sec article
in Part X.,
Volume
1.
592
House Painting and Papering-. Sabtdwell writes In your Magazine
:
AMATEURS IN
me?
Though
are
COUNCIL.
and that the preparation supplies as durable a wash of this nature as cun be obtained. When he tells you to use beer dregs, there is no difficulty in seeing that he means stale hard beer unfit for drinking, and this, I am sorry to say, from personal experience, is to be met with far too frequently in all parts of the country where beer is brewed and drunk. As to the proportions, you can
your requirements by resorting to simple division. You can make good whitewash say, a pailful of it -with twj or three large lumps or "stones" of unslaked lime, some water, a pound or two of size, and a very little blueblack, or indigo blue, and this ought not to cost more than a shilling at the utmost, though materials are sold at widely different prices by different persons, as your
easily reduce these to suit
J.
there
cannot I that I have Walker's, and I think it would be a good plan if the authors of the various subjects
would make them plain enough for such of your readers a3 myself to understand, because it is useless for anyone to read and not understand what he has read. In the articles on "Carpentry" there are the words "dado "and "tiles." For the life of me I cannot get at their meaning, perhaj s you will kindly tell me. Another good thing the authors would do for such as myself if they would thoroughly consider the cost of the material that they recommend to be used, because five shillings to me means more than 5 to some of you r readers, and probably there are others whose capability of expenditure is as limited as mine. In the articles on " House Painting and Papering" the writer recommends for "whitewashing" (see page 328, Part XVIII., for May, 1883), half a bushel of lime, two pounds of sulphate of zinc, two gallons of beer dregs, and two quarts of boiled linseed oil, and some blueblack. Now, bir, the lime here is Is. per hundred,
the linseed oil 8d. per pint, the sulphite of ziuc I sent a toy to a druggist to know the price of a pound, the druggist said, " Ob, you want a pennyworth.'' The lad Lad a penny in his pocket and brought that much, barely a quarter of an ounce -at the rate of 5s. 4d. a pound I sent to another draggist. He said the commonest would be 2s. per pound. Now, sir, at this rate, to whitewash the top of a room would cost lime, 6d. (the beer dregs I caunot get at all), linseed oil, 2s. 8d., sulphate of ziuc, 4s., blueblack, one halfpenny, and brush, 3s. 6d. (and this is a grass brush), and the tressels 5s. for the material to make them this is what it has cost me, as I have made a pair. So that altogether it amounts to 15s. 8}d; but leaving the price of the tressels out, it would then be 10s. 8Jd. But then there is the other "expenses clearcoUng". expense. Why, sir, we poor men cannot follow this. Now, sir, my house is in a very bad state, in consequence of being unable to follow my employment for nearly six years, and consequently earn nothing to pay to have it done, so that I am compelled to do it as well as I can myself, and I am neither carpenter, bricklayer, nor painter still I can do a little of each about
!
want to ask for a little information, and I think you can help me. The ceilings of my kitchens and bedrooms have been done at some past time with some kind of red ochre, so that they are between a red and a brown. When I put the whitewash on they look very bad. I cannot make them look nice and white. Now, sir, how can I do with these ceilings to get this old colouring off, and make them look nice and white ? The walls of my bedrooms are not papered, but coloured blue. Now, I should like to whitewash them (I mean lime-wash), and then either to paper them or colour them blue again. Now, if I whitewash, them with lime will it takethe blue colouring after, and how must I mix my blue colouring? Mr. Edwinson does not say anything about this. Or will the limewash take the paper ? I hope you will not think any ill of me complaining, hut receive these lengtby questions and remarks in the same kind spirit as they are sent, and that you will tell me the meaning of the words "dado" aud "tiles," and kindly give me the information about the ceiling, and how to recolour the walls of my rooms
blue. I have given
experience with the druggist goes far to prove. But druggists' prices are as a rule high, and if I wanted sulphate of zinc in any quantity I should not buy it of any dispensing chemist. It is scarcely fair to include the tressels in the cost of the whitewash, for these, when once made, form a useful part of your "plant" for indoor and outdoor work, and are available for other purposes than the single job of white-
washing
for
By
Mr. Sandwell's letter in full, because if I had not done so, the reason for my reply would not have been
clear,
Work
how
perhaps, to readers of Amateor generally. (1.) I fail to see myself the writers of the articles that appear
cellar and rooms had not been done for a length of time before I got injured. So this last week I made two tressels, as p<r sketch in Part XIV*., and I have whitewashed my cellar and the passage. I got some good lime, slaked it with boiling water, put in about a halfpenny worth of blueblack and a candle; the latter soon melted, and the walls look nice and white, and the smell is grand. Now, it is all very well for those
in this magazine could make them clearer and more explicit than they are. The words "dado" and " tile," of which you ask the meaning, are used very frequently in the present day and in my ignorance I supposed that everybody at all events, everybody who reads Amateur Wobe knew what they mean. Get rid of your " Walker" and buy Ward and Lock's " Staudard Etymological Dictionary," price 7s. 6d., and in this you will find the meaning of both "dado" and "tile" duly and clearly set forth. For your personal satisfaction, however, I may say that in a room the dado is that portion of the wall which lies between the chair-rail, real or Bham, and the skirting board, including these parts and if you do not know what a chainrail is I will add that it is a strip of wood, plain or moulded, attached ta the walls of a room and running roand them, except where its continuance is broken by door, window, or fireplace at chair height from the floor, and intended, as far as its practical utility is concerned, to protect the wall from being injured by the back of any chair that may be put back too roughly and thrust against
;
it.
a roofing tile
is,
that have plenty of money to have all the things recommended, bat your authors should consider the poor, and tell them how to do according to their pockets. Why, sir, where can I have the money to do all my rooms according to these directionsor thou:ands of others as well as
and what a paving tile is, and on this point I need only say that the tile used in decoration is square in form, varies in size from 4 inches square to 8 inches square, or even more, is made of earthenware, papiermache, and other substances, and is glazed,
painted, or otherwise embellished according to the nature of the material of which
it
is made. With reference to Mr. (2.) Edwinson's recipe for making whitewash, I may say that it is intended for whitewashing on an extensive scale of operation,
using a little thought and judgment you made a good and cheap whitewash, and materially improved the appearance of your house fioni a sanitary, as well as a cleanly point of view. i3.) And now I come to the ceilings of your kitchens and bedroom?, which you say have been coloured with "some kind of red ichre," a queer taste on the part of the colourist, and the bedroom walls which are coloured blue. Mr. Edwineon has told you, before you attempt to put on the new coat of whitewash or coloured wash, to wash off the old colouring matter, and this you must do from both ceilings and walls, using your broad whitewashing brush and plenty of clean water, which must be renewed from time to time as each pailful becomes dirty. You will thus clean off all the old coating of coloured wash from ceilings and walls, aud render the former fit to receive the whitewash when the plaster is dry, or nearly so ; and the latter fit to take the coloured wash, which is made by adding some colouring matter, which you can procure for a few pence of any oil or colour man, A limewashed wall will not take paper. If I were in your place I shoul 1, after washing them, apply a solution of Condy's Fluid, or carbolic acid, or any disinfectant of this kind, ti the walls to thoroughly sweeten them; then, after stopping all holes, cracks, etc., with plaster of Paris, give them a coat of size, and on this hang your paper, if you prefer to paper your rooms. If, however, you decide on colouring them, you can relieve their otherwise monotonous appearance by running a border in stencil round the top of the wall, immediately below the ceiling (or cornice if you have it), and round the mouldings of door, window, and firej>lace, and above the skirting board. I have now done my best to help you, and I trust you will be satisfied with my reply, which has run to even a greater length than yoiu: " long letter."
AMATEURS IN
Rubber Stamp Mailing.
I have been requested to state that orders for articles connected with, this process, previously supplied by Messrs. Henry J.
COUNCIL.
Buckled Bicycle Wheel.
Tut.
593
Martin & Co., Eubber Stamp Makers, Cork, may be addressed in future to Messrs.
Taylor,
E.C.,
Cook &
by
whom
pine 1 inch thick and 11 inches wide, and plane them perfectly true, now out 4 inches off one the whole length of the board; these two pieces are for the bottom board, and across these you will glue about eight pieces of i inch pine 11 inches wide by 10 inches in length, and one piece 5 inches in width by 10 inches in length to build up or strengthen the upper board where the groove will come (as in Fig. 1), leaving a gap 4 inches wide between the two bottom boards, thus making it 15 inches wide; now glue on the upper board, allowing it to lap an inch over the cross-pieces (as in cross section), and screw together with 2 inch screws from the bottom, this will allow the top to be planed if it should cast, as the screws do not come through, and the e Ige being raised and lapping over the
M. In most cases, if a buckled taken by two persons and twisted back, it will jump into its former position, and is often little the worse if, however, it wobbles badly when being turned, it maybe put right by slackening all the spokes, straightening the bent ones, then casting the eye along one side of the wheel rim the bends will be easily seen, these may bo pressed straight over a block of wood on the floor or bench. When the rirn is thus made straight, tighten up the spokes and true the wheel by measuring from hub to rim with a lath of wood, placing it close alongside of each spoke. All this may be done by au amateur without removing the tyre, and
H.
wheel
is
;
down the middle, by which I got the couple of ladders in a few minutes. The accompanying sketch will explain what I mean. Besides being made in far less time
it
the
article
entitled
Mechanical Aids in Cutting Dovetail Joints" in the July number of Amateur Work, I noticed a curious mistake of the writer. He spoke of the guides for cutting
the dovetail, and showed how to make and clamp tbem on to the table. The guides, as he describes them, will not give a proper dovetail, as his fixed guide forces the piece to move in a diagonal line as compared with the line in which the saw tends to cut, thus the only way his plan would work, would be by main force to make the
-
T. T
~'
< X
I
o o M
a
P
ISOMETRIC SKETCH OF FALSE TOP FOR TABLE] saw cut sideways, which would not do. For cutting the dovetail he must make a
second table with a slip on one face to fit into the groove in the first, or permanent
preparing uprights.
it is far
Having done a great deal of fret-sawing myself, and using the best machine made
(the Fleetwood), I strongly advise fretsawyers, who aspire to excellence in their work, to avoid cbeip machines, as they are only a soutcc of continual annoyance, and most extravagant in the breakage of saws. Since the advent of the "Griffin" saw I have abandoned the old kind entirely one Griffin being worth a hundred of the others.
< mo
fe
and agroove on the other side, exactly on the first table. He must put the slip on the guide at right angles to the way he described it, and move guide and wood together up
table,
cross-pieces, allows the edge to be squared, without parting the boards, while the air
against the saw. This false table, or top, of which I give an isometrical illustration, must have a slot for the saw instead of a hole, as the top has to move across the
at least a foot extra for the plane to run, thus, to plane up five foot stuff, make the
board at
thoroughly dry
having free play all round the boards they are not so likely to cast, and, in shooting an edge, the shavings and dust work away under the top board, bo as not to throw the plane out of square. The blocks are generally screwed across the board, but I cut a groove across, wedge-shape, 6 inches from the end, and cut wedges of various thicknesses for planing wood of any substance, so that the plane may run over the block, I am willing to execute as in section. orders for these boards at Is. 6d. per foot [For length, and blocks at 6d. each. address apply to Editor.]
Cement for Bicycle Tyres. E. P. (Great Yarmouth). I am not prepared to give reliable instructions for making cement. If you want cement only for your own use, I think it would he undesirable to attempt making it, as small quantities can be bought for a trifle. If you readthepapers on Wheelbuilding and Fixing
Tyres, in recent Parts of Amateur Work, you will have found full instructions on the A first-rate cement for cuts is subject. Rankin's Kilmarnock Bicycle Stop.
594
Granule Battery Electrified Lawyer. Your electro-motors have a low resistance and consequent! j require more current to work them than can be supplied by your small granule cells. I have known
a lrge three cell grannie battery to drive a motor continuously through one day of ei*rht hours without stopping. I am n<>t well acquainted with the Griseom battery. An article on the battery requested by you is now in type, when it appears yon will learn from it the causes of your failures. ELtCTUOTypiNG Solutions. V. {ArableElectrical Matters.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
formation on such subjects as those you mention than can be supplied in this department.
Telephones.
Bez.
describe
is of
B.
{Devizes).
The
designer of the
table suggests that a groove cut in the way shown is impracticable, a slip of wood, say quarter inch square fixed on the leg each side of the place the groove would occupy,
mentioned by you is only suitable for the deposition of copper on iron or steel, and is worked cold with a current from three Bunsen cells in series. A Eolution of sulphate of copper alone is tbe most suitable for producing an electrotype.
Blacklead too expensive What Use the best blacklead. One pennyworth will be enough to cover an acre of moulds. There are other more expensive conductors. Magnbto-ElectricMachine. In a Fix. An illustrated article showing every detail of a magneto-electric machine, appears
!
next?
in this Part, From it you will learn all you require to know. Electric Gong. E. H. P. (Manchester), It
is
simply a mechanical
contrivance
which you can easily understand by examining one of the bells. There is nothing
electric about
J.
it.
might answer the purpose, or the groove if cut need not be more than a quarter of an inch deep and could be worked with a small chisel without great waste of time, as the angle it is cut is of slight importance, provided the front edge of panel keeps true to the leg, it matters not if tho leg fits panel or the panel is bevelled to fit au ordinary groove in the leg. The idea of fret-cutting an imitation tile is good in the effect that would be produced if each tart were sand-papered by hand, and then put together, the slightly bevelled surface of every part would reproduce the inequality of the glaze, but the enormous waste of time to complete a number, and structural weakness, should be enough to decide against it without regard to the, colouriug. The locality you date from enables the getting actual tiles, I presume, an impossibility, otherwi-e the plain rich yellow tiles in low relief of the Burmantoft's Faience, or the modern eastern tiles imported by Holme & Co., Farringdon Ro id, would answer your purpose. The papyrotiles are
tasteful
American make, and its name, "Blake Transmitter," is stamped on the outside casing. It is in reality a microphone, and requires an induction coil, worked by a single Leclanchi5 cell. That which you call a brass knob (marked " p" in your sketch) is, if you examine it closer, a small block of carbon, which presses against a little knob of platinum fixed to the end of tbe thin brass spring, which you have marked "o." This X'hitiimin knob, again, rests
against the diaphragm, the vibrations of which vary the pressure of the carbon and platinum, creating a wave in the electric current passing through them. If you will send your name and address to the Editor, with a stamped envelope, for him to forward it tome, I shall be most hapjiy to give you a personal interview, as I reside iu the
same town from which you head your letter. I can then explain all you ask, and perhaps help you to ride your hobby, so that you may not run over or injure your "little
go " at the University. J. E. S. (Cannes). The "peculiar noise" in your telephone may arise from a bad "earth." If you have attached your " earth " wires to a brass or iron pipe, be careful to scrape o5 any lacquer or polish, and then make sure that the wire is firmly attached to the plain metal. If it is a lead pipe, scrape off the skin and fix your wire to the clean bright lead with a little solder. Tbe diaphragm being, as you say, bent may cause it either to touch the end of the magnet, or keep it too far off, in either case preventing it from vibrating freely; flatten it out with a wooden mallet.
W.
tory on advertisement pages, and consult Mr. Dale or Mr. Archbutt, both advertisers
also eastern in design. There are reproductions of eastern tiles in some of the
our columns. Magneto-E lectric Battery. Magneto. This can be purchased at as low a price as 18j. from either of the gentlemen mentioned above. See also the reply to " In a Fix." "We thank you for suggestions, but ;must decline to undertake the grave responsibility of giving medical advice to enquirers, except in very simple cases. Edectric Indicator. Edward J. seph, 8, Bull Ring, Birmingham writes "I have made several of the articles described in Amateur Wobk, and am very much pleased with them. Having a lathe, I should be pleased to supply my brother amateurs with
in
modern wall papers, but without a special search among the various makers I am unable to say precisely where to obtain them. The Japanese panels of open lattice work
tiles or the old Cairo could be imitated. The " Furniture Gazette," of May 1st and 8th, 1880, gave drawings of this Cairo work and also of Persian tiles. A low bench running all round the walls and cushioned at the back, would do for the lower part of the room, also this might cover hangings to the ceiling, while the doors treated in the overdoor Moorish style in Amateur Work, Part for July, 1882, and painted with bright arabesques, would give the style for the other woodwork a few hanging lamps, or Japanese lanterns would be suitable. The Indian dhurries imported by Liberty and others, from 2s. each, would be appropriate If the Japanese style were hangings.
several little articles at a nominal price such as electrical binding screws, contactbreakers, and parts of electric bells, elec-
simple galvanometers (such as those described in Amateur Work), induction coils, etc. etc.'* Electric indicators will come up for treatment when space can be spared for the articles. Cutting Zinc Plates. B. E. Z. Fix in a vice, and cut with a hack saw, or line out the sizes of the strips with the tang of a file, deeply groove the lines with the file, and break off the strips one at a time whilst held horizontally in the vice. Induction Coil. L. W. W. Tour questions respecting a coil to give a six inch spark when worked by the current from three Grove's cells, shall receive considtration in a forthcoming article on coils. Eepliea to questions dealing with informat.onnlready bupplied iu articles published in Amateue Work, will be freely given, but we must ask you to wait for fulier intric bells complete,
chosen, tiles would cease to be a necessity, and this very adaptable style would allow of wonders with very small amount of work. A smoking room in this style will be described in an early^number of this workj and will contain a few sketches of details.
Dead Polishing.
J
.
: In Fort Vlt, June, 1882, in an article on Electric Bells, a hope is heM out that something would be given on the pneumatic way of managing such bells. I have laid all the pipes required for it in the house I now occupy. I did so myself, while the house was in building. Might I ask will enough soon be said to enable a handy man to complete the pneumatic part of the arrangement ? I am not afraid of the electric part of the work but I would need some assistance on the pneumatic part of it. [Mr. Edwinson will shortly take this in hand. Ed.]
J. F. B. (Mtlford) writes
;
to a correspondent saying, " Work is not polished in a lathe;" as a fact, circular work is much easier to do in a lathe. Dead polishing is entirely in the finish ; the job is finished in the usual way, and then made dead " or dull" by rubbing with finely powdered pumice stone specially prepared; it is to be obtained at most shops where
polish is sold.
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
Supplements to "Amateur Work."
Iago Ctbi
-writes
:
595
hands to turn out well-finished tool?. For tools that a handy man, whether professional or amateur, can make for himself, instructions have been given, and will be given iu this Magazine, when opportunity
offers.
suggestions for keeping the supplements presented with. Ahatetjk Woke. I see it was impossible to make the sheets of less size than what they are. Get two pieces of cardboard a little larger than the sheets, aud make a case with them, the same as the case of a hook, but instead of leaves, put in some slips of paper about an inch wide. Cut out all the supplements and pa^te them on some stiff paper, or linen, and after they are dry, either paste them, or gum them, one to each of the slips of paper in the already made case this will be found to be more convenient when
;
be inspected, and, I believe, purchased at the printing shop in Ludgate Circus, London. Price would be some 40. For small card printing-presses apply Birmingham Machinists' Company, Printers' Engineers, Birmingham,
INFORMATION SUPPLIED.
Impressions of Ferns. A. S. (Stockport) writes: In answer to R. C, for instructions how to take impressions of ferns, etc., I will describe the method I adopt, which Procure is some smooth cartridge paper, then take the ferns or leaves and arrange them in position. If ferns, they look well put in groups if ivy, it will look well as a border, but whichever it is, put a pin through a leaf here and there, to keep the fronds from moving very fine pins, or the holes will show. Then procure a small-tooth comb, a stick of Indian ink, and a tooth-brush. Dissolve the ink in water don't get it in lumps and dip your brush in the ink do not get too much on and rub in gently along the comb, holding it over the group of ferns. If you get too much ink on your brush, it will fall in big drops the object is to make them as fine as possible. Rub more on near the joints of the ferns, just as iu a photograph, and let the colour gradually die away to the edge. Take the ferns off, and you will be surprised at the effect you have produced. If done neatly your ferns will hear a strong resemblance to a large-sized photograph. I shall be happy to supply further instructions if these are not suffi-
Spence'3 Metal.
W. E. R. (Bau-try). Spence's metal is a sulphur compound, patented and made by a company formed for the purpose. It may be obtained in most large towns; and in sniill quantities can be had of C. Malins. Hill Street, Birmingham price about 4d. per
;
pound.
perusing Aitatette Woek (whether bound or in single parts), than when they are bound with the pjrts and on the case inside make a small pocket for keeping scales, or working drawings, which may be made. To make the scales, proceed as follows Supposing the scale is ^ inch to a foot, get a piece of stiff card, or thin boswood, say about 6 inches long, mark 6 inches on it, divide the first inch into 12 equal part3, or 24 parts would be better, divide the other 5 inches each into 4 or 8 equal parts, whi h will be equal to 3 or 6 inches,
; :
sand-papered your work to get a perfectly smooth and even surface, stop all holes with some preparation for wood-filling. The "American Wood Filler" is considered excellent for this purpose. Then apply the stain to the wood thus prepared, and, lastly, French polish the surface. 2. Thank you for your esteemed offer, but I have many things of this kind on hand that have not yet appeared through want of space.
now you have a "2 foot rule," 6 feet long, and as the Erst inch (or foot) is divided into inches, you can measure the number
it, if the scale is 1\ inches divide the lj inches into part 3 the same as before, and the same for any. scale to which the drawings are made.
Bookbinding.
D. Hoeb3. 1. Tou can certainly do without a beating stone and hammer; if you pass your book through the mangle you
J.
of inche3 with
Plain Carpentry.
A. B. (Haeiney).1. You will find all the information that you can require on plain carpentry in "Every Man His Own Mechanic." A cheap edition of Part I. of this book, which i3 entirely devoted to the subject you mention, will shortly appear. 2. An article on the method of making a carpenter's bench suitable for amateurs is in the printer's hands, and will appear in an
early part.
Clock-repairing-. T. B. T- (Carnev;). The prospectus cf Vol. IH. of Amatextb "Woek which appears in the advertisement pages of thi3 Part will furnish a reply to the greater part of your letter with reference to musical instruments. The subject of repairing clocks will shortly be taken up by another writer, with whom arrangements are now pending.
Amateur Workshop.
Teic?clist writes : I take the liberty to suggest that you devote three or four columns monthly to Amateur Workshop, fitting engine up for same, \ to 2-horse power, best way of setting shafting out for
lathe, grindstone, fret-machine, etc.; best kind boiler for same ; mode of supplying
Eame with water, without much trouble ; any improvement in injector pumps, etc. LTois work will receive attention in the pagefl of this Magazine a3 soon a3 room can be made for it. Ed.] Decorative Carpentry.
G. The articles on this subject are generally issued in alternate parts of this work, and will appeal until the subject i3
folly treated.
have, in thin sections, say of six sheets, the book will be firm enough, but it will be advisable to press them in the copying-press. 2. Pressing-boards vary in thickness, those I have in use are made of iron, \ inch thick, with a thin millboard pasted each side. Cutting-board3 are inch, tapered off to J inch; backing-boards somewhat thicker, but at an angle at edge. It is advisable to use the boards the same length as the books. 3. The press running in when pressed up, shows that the guide-pius are not true. 4. Tour last question I do not quite understand, but see p. 227, Vol. II , for cutting press and plough. 1. Is answered, or J. M. (Brook Street). rather will be answered, in the papers devoted to Finishing. 2. Tour query respecting edges is answered in Part XVIII. A. b. G. The true Roxburghe style is gilt top, da k colour, straight grain, morocco back; ic bands or corners. Sides covered with du'l, deep, red paper; white end papers, and lettered rather high up on the back. Gholter. I hardly think that you have gone carefully through the book on binding by Zaehnsdorf, or you would find all you ask for in it. Bead the book again, and put down the various articles as mentioned. You will then have a complete list, and also where they can be had. Bookbinding requires more patience and thought than
cient.
INFORMATION SOUGHT.
Gilding on Stone. Yeoman writes Will anyone kindly inform me how to gild a tombstone, the
:
but the stone being outdoors, the paint will not stand. [This will be treated in "The Art and Mystery of Gilding," a series of papers which will appear in Vol. III. Ed]
most
trades.
Tool Making.
reconsidering my previous reply to you, I had better point out to you that you can buy such tools as benchplanes, moulding- planes, etc., far cheaper
Iago Ctbi.
On
W.
than you can make them, however explicit in detail any instructions for making them may be. Indeed, it requires practised
who will inform me how photogiuphy cau best be applied to wood engraving, i.e., that the positive can be transferred to the wood blocks, and the wood-cutting made direct from the photograph without the necessity of making any drawing by the hand on the wood. The writer is a practical photographer, and wishes to make use of negatives so that they may he reproduced cheaply, and printed in a serial with the type, in the same manner as a wood-block, and where many thousand copies are required. Should there be any other process by which photographs can be more readily and cheaply multiplied for printing along with type, than by wood-cutting and printing, the writer will be glad to have it described by any correspondent who will kindly take the trouble. It might put many photographers in the way of making
to anyone
their
useful.
596
Washing Machine. writes Would
:
AMATEURS IN COUNCIL.
(Orkney)
you, or any of your able correspondents, give me information on how to mate a thorough good washing machine, one that is not considered to damage the clothes. I should feel greatly obliged if you could give instructions how I could construct a simple planing machine. [Mr. Graham has the planing machine in hand. I shall, be pleased to receive an article, illustrated, on the method of making a useful washing machine. Ed.]
J. S.
that a soldering-iron becomes pitted after being used once or twice ? I have used soldering-irons for the last seven or eight years, but I have never, until lately, had one pit, as I have now. I use them like most plumbers, dipping them in water before use, and I take care never to overheat them. The solder is pure tin
generally, but sometimes a mixture of tin, lead, zinc, and antimony. I have a new iron, which has only once been used with tin solder, and it pitted at once. Is it a sign of bad copper, or what ?
me why it is
W. B. writes : Information as to the application of an electromotor for blowing a large harmonium with two manuals, and
J.
independent pedals, will be gladly received. [I am sorry you have not had the information you require earlier, but there is often a difficulty in procuring and giving what is wanted, as promptly as I could wish. En.]
Pine for Model Boat Building. wants to know where he can purchase a piece of white American pine, withJ. L.
Firework Cabinet.
O. writes : Could anyone tell me where I could get a firework cabinet, containing apparatus and chemicals also, what would the price be of it ?
L.
;
W.
out knot, split, or blemish, 2J feet long, I foot wide, and 10 inches deep, from which to
Enamel
Faint.
Victor writes: I shall feel obliged if you can inform me, through the columns of the "Council," of the recipe for making enamel paint, similar to that used on Venetian blind laths.
Conjuring Tricks. G. H. P. {Gateshead) wishes for some instructions, with diagrams, for conjuring apparatus that can be made on the lathe. [Your other requests and suggestions shall receive consideration. Ed.]
boat. J. L. cannot procure it in his town, of either wood merchant, joiner, or boat-builder.
Transferring Ordinary Engravings and Photos from Paper to Wood. Jack Horner asks : Would someone
Enamel on Coins. E. C. D. asks: By what means is that beautiful enamel produced on coins, and how would they advise an amateur to set
to work to gain the desired results seems to be a " trade secret" here.
?
who has tried the above kindly inform me how it is done. I have seen views, etc., on the lids of small white wood boxes.and would
like to
ornament one in the same way, but cannot get any information on the subject.
It
Water Telescope.
-I should have a description of the simplest means of making a water telescope to find articles lying at, or to inspect, the bottom of a lake from 4 to 6 feet deep.
T.
(Stoke-on- Trent) writes:
Re-polishing wardrobe. C. .(Hemeick) writes : Would yon kindly advise me what is best to do to restore the glossy surface on a mahogany wardrobe, which is affected in the following way the polish seems to have dried into the wood, and a kind of rust seems to have spread over the greater part. I have rubbed repeatedly with a mixture of turpentine and beeswax, but the rust comes through. Wardrube made about two years ago rust appeared three months after. [To your second query use linseed oil.
J.
Cleaning Old Armour. G. F. (Hereford) writes: Will you give a receipt in your Magazine for cleaning old armour, old swords, etc., to make them bright to hang against old oak panelling? [I cannot help you to procure oak panelling for your room. Ed.]
W.
like to
W.
Chemical Cabinet.
asks Can any reader give me sketches and sizes of a small chemical cabinet ? I would like it the shape of a bookcase; the bottom part to hold the chemicals, with doors, the upper part (without doors) with shelves to hold volumes on chemistry.
J.
S.
The
articles
you men-
(Lockerbie)
tion will, I believe, be reproduced in book form, but it is impossible at the present time to attempt to name the price of the
Spring Washers.
P. J. W. writes : Can you, through your valued periodical, inform me where I can obtain spring washers, which prevent nuts coming off bolts ? I want them to take a half-inch bolt, and require them for the wheels of a dog-cart.
contemplated volume. W. H. M. (New Suindon). We have no work on the subject you mention, but think, as far as we can say without referring to them, that you will find the information you require in one of the large encyclopaedias, such as the " Encyclopaedia Britan
nica.'
1
Ed]
Knitting: Machines. Anxious writes: Will you kindly recommend a good knitting machine, or state from what firm I might be able to procure price list or illustrations ?
Chip Baskets.
asks 1. How are the wooden or chip baskets made ? On a shape ? And how are the chips or laths made to bend without breaking ? And are they obtained by splitting or planing the wood ? Is there a inichine for making the chips ? How are the chip punnets made one sees in the
Liquid Brass PoliBh, etc. H, E. (Middleton) writes : I should be much obliged if you or some of the readers
J.
Selborne. You letter to the publishers has been handed to me, as they are unable to reply to it by post, because you have omitted to append your name. The title page and index to each volume of Amateub
Work
H.
S.
give itn> a, good receipt for liquid brass polish for cleaning chased brass work also a receipt forclean. ing silver gilt ? They would be very useful as I have some old things I should like to
of
;
is issued with the first part of the succeeding volume, because there is not sufficient time to get it ready for publication with the last part of the volume to
which
tion.
it
belongs.
A. S.
clean.
Wood
Carving.
London markets
so-called
2.
ivory paper ivorine made? [With reference to your other requests I will do my best to supply your lequirements. Ed.]
How
is
Desirous asks Where can wood carving models (plaster or soft wood) be procured; also where can I procure designs and tracings upon paper ready to be transferred,
for carving
?
"Lathe Construcnew volume, commencing with Part XXIV. "You will find
With regard
M. E. (Anglet, Bayonne). Brief instructions on cutting and polishing pebbles were given in Part XIX. of Amatbub Wokk, An Index to subj- cts dated June, 1883.
treated in Vol.
tions, will be given with
Camera Obscura.
T.
if
Staining Glass.
: May I ask
W.
to
you or any
of the readers of
Amateur
Work
can favour
me
with instructions as
and simplest mode of constructing a camera obscura, together with the hut
to the best
necessary for its manipulation. [I shall be glad to receive an article en this subject,
diagrams and
working
a cheap and glass, or to fix some colour on the surface of glass, so that it could be washed off if required. Would Judson's Dyes do with a little gum to thicken, and fix it on to glass? I have seen glass coloured, and apparently the colour had been applied in the fame
sinipla
with a List of IllustraPart XXIV., the opening Part of the New Volume.
II.,
TITLE PAGE AND INDEX TO VOL. II. The Title Page to Vol. II. of Amateur
Work, Illustrated, with, a full Index and List of Illustrations, -will be given to Subscribers with Part XXIV.
GENERAL
For Index
Amateurs
in Council, 47, 94, 143, 193, 243,
INDEX.
Council" see next page.
Knives, old, new uses for, 282
Lanterns, magic, photographic slides for, 204 Larder, a small portable, 443 Lathe, an amateur's, 139 Lathe, overhead motion for, 292 Lattice-work, Oriental, 559
to
"Amateurs
in
Dials, sun,
Arrangement
in
Decorative carpentry, 70, 267, 439, 535 how to make, 1, 49 Dolly, a house for, 333, 427, 474, Dovetailing machines, 182 Dowel-jointing, 112 Drilling machine, Makin's, 396 Dulcimer, the, how to make, 121
Electrical machine,
how
to
make a cylinder,
Machine, a cylindrical electrical, 259 Machine, a magneto-electric, 551 Machine, an improved fret cutting', 104 Machine, planing, a, 307 Machines, dovetailing, 182 Machine, Makin's drilling, 396 Machinery, wood -working, sea Wood-working machinery
new
Beds, flower, geometrical, 286 Bellows, organ, 221 Bells, code of signals for, 74
Bells, electric, see Electric bells
how
to
Bench, amateur carpenter's, 283 Bench, Syer's portable cabinet, 45 Binding, papers used in, 37
and mainten-
Bismuth
solders, 39
Bookbinding for amateurs, 36, 226, 317, 458 Bookcase, a folding, 117 Booth's corner cramp, 44 Booth's mitre-cutting machine, 44 Boots and shoes, how to make and mend them, 482 Bow, the modern, 101 Bows, violin, the art of making, 62 Bows, violin, their history, 58 Boies, egg and hatching, 282
Braces, chest-expanding, 528 brackets, wall, two designs for, 539 Brass-casting at home, 133, 216, 431, 568 t Brazing and soldering, 39, 136, 276, 380, 50y 579 Brushes for china painting , 126
.
1
ance, 175 Floors, boarded, how to decorate, 217 Flower-beds, geometrical construction of, 286 Folding bookcase, a, 117 Frames, picture, how to make, see Picture frames, how to make French polishing, a few words about, 510 Fret-cutting, ornamental epergne for, 54
Machines, moulding, 182 Machines, planing, 99 Magic lanterus, photographic slides for,
204
a,
Mantel-board, the "Azalea," 425 Mantelpiece with tile panels, a, 238 Maps, relievo, see Relievo maps " Merlin " tricycle, the, 67
of,
Moving models
" Multum-in-parvo," a, for poultry and pigeon keepers, 556 Music stand, design for a, 376
Cameras, American, 290 Canoe building, hints on, 384 Carpentry, decorative, see Decorative carpentry Carpentry, rustic, see Bustic carpentry Cartridges, magazine for, 484 "Challenge" cameras, the, 290 Chemical apparatus, cheap, 534 Clockhouse, an ornamental, 179 Clothes lines, a substitute for, 120 Coal scuttle in carved oak, a, 570
Cofl,
Greene's hydrostatic gas governor, 293 Greenhouse, how to warm a small, 79 Greenhouses, heating apparatus for, 118 Grindstone, the, how to get it up, 503 Gun implements, case for, 485 Gun wads, a new use for, 120
Hall, decoration of the, 70
Notes on Novelties,
*_
21, 81,
1$, 221,
Hat-stand, 72
in, 154
House
how
I built
my first,
178, 325
Colouring photographs,
see Photographs "Combination '* saw stand, 491 Composing, hints on, 55
Hygrometer,
a, 1
15
Conservatory, how to warm a small, 79 Corner cramp, Booth's, 44 Cramp for picture frames, 283
Ci)rrf:ri+
house
for, 389
detector, the, 74
Organs, paper pipes for, 22 Organs, specifications for, 21 Organs, to make the pipes for, 22 Oriental lattice work, 559 Overhead lathe, a new, 292 Overglaze painting on porcelain, lain, overglaze painting on " Overdoor " in fretwork, 511 " Overman " tricycle, the, 66
see
Porce-
59 8
Paint, luminous, 95 Painting on porcelain, overglaze, see Porcelain, overglaze painting on Palettes and palette knives, 299 Papers used in bookbinding, 37 Pliotograpbic apparatus, bow to make a set
of, 63,
INDEX.
Rack, boot and shoe, 512 Relievo maps and their construction,
209, 249, 410
Trypograph, the, 91
Tuners, organ, assistant
for, 154
Router, improved fillister, 93 Rubber stamp making, 331, 421 Rustic carpentry, 320, 377, 414, 462, 522
Sash-line,
360
Photographic slides for magic lanterns, 204 Pbotograpbic studio, an amateur's, 34, 212 Photographs, the art of colouring, 78, 308 Photography, its principles and practice, 86 Pianos, a few words about, 418, 57& Picture-frames, how to make, 130, 304, 492
Picture-frames,
how
Veneering, wood for, 48 Vice, " Standard " instantaneous grip, 45 " Victor " tricycle, the, 66
Violin-making, as
Violin, the,
it
Saw-stand, " Combination," 491 Sciatica, a cure for, 47 Sculpture, amateur, see Artistic modelling
Serials,
was and
101
how
to
make
it,
unbound, shelf
for, 512
and
its variegators.
bow
Soldering, see
11 Violins,
478 Picture -frames in fretwork, 159 Pigeons and poultry, a house for, 6 Pipes, organ, a new material for, 22 Plane, reed, substitute for, 511 Planing machine, an amateur's, 307 Planing machines, 99 Porcelain, overglaze painting on, 17, 124, 233, 299, 453 Portable larder, a handy, 443 Poultry and pigeons, a house for, G Poultry and pigeons, "multuni in parvo" for keeping, 556 Printing for amateurs, 55, 18G, 337, 514
bows
for, 58
Soldering, soft, 39 Sound-boards, organ, 163 Stamps, rubber, see Riibber stamps Standard " instantaneous" grip vice, Sticks, walking, how to make, 28 Stops, organ, notes on, 83
Vivarium,
how
to construct a, 389
45"
Wads, gun, a uew use for, 120 Walking sticks, how to make them, 28 Wall brackets, two designs for, 539
Storm
glass, a, 115
Ways and means, 42, 90, 131, Windmill, a small, 514 Wood-carving for amateurs,
Wood,
220
14, 171, 38^, 584 jointing, in all its branches, 112, 158,
Woodworking machine
99,182
for
amateurs,
31,
of, 280
professional, 445
117, 280, 511
INDEX TO AMATEURS
Alembic, a cheap, 195
IN
COUNCIL.
Filters, 247
Bachelor's sideboard, a, 194, 346 Bamboo, to bend, 248, 297, 403 Baud-saws, to mend, 450 Banjo making, 94 Barometers, construction of, 144 Baths, to heat rapidly, 352, 451 Bench holdfast, 99, 545 Bench hook, 194, 347
198,
248, 296,
China painting,
Bench
stop, 143, 296, 347 Bicycles, 98, 143, 342, 350, 394 Bird organs, 297
Bird-stuffing, 244
Block plane, 344 Boat building, 97 Bookbinders' sewing press, 96 Bookbinding, 98, 351, 595
397, 404 Circular saws, guide for, 248, 348, 402 Coach building, 295 Coins, old, 98, 145 Coke, use of, 196 Colour, metal tubes for, 248, 351 Concertinas, tongues for, 245 Concertinas, tuning, 245 Cooking stove, Norwegian, 546 Coral, bleaching, 198, 403 Cornices, gilt, to fix, 500
397 Floors, new mode of covering, 42 Floors, preparation of for dancing, 145 Floors, polishing, 344 Flower pots, hanging, 42 Forge, small portable, 547 Fountain, inexhaustible, 145, 195, 398, 450 Frame bouses, construction of, 132 Fret-saw blades, 296, 346, 498 Fret - sawing from designs in Amateur Work, 198
Fret-saw machine,
399,400.
Fretwork
Fretwork, sale
Furniture,
94
96, 145,
home - made,
147,
400,
plaster, 344
195
Book cases, 244, 402, 452, 498 Boot and shoe making, 147
Bottles, to cut off
Draughts, table
bottoms
for, 344 Drilling china, method of, 145, 451 Drilling glass, method of, 97, 451
Bottle-wax, insoluble in alcohol, 133 Braces, chest-expanding, 397 Brass fittings, to black, 145 Brazing, model boiler, 344 Brazing, soldering and, 347, 351, 400 Brick work, saltpetring of, 42 Bronze, American, 97 Bronzing, 194, 451, 452
Dutch
clocks, 145
132, 145, 194, 346
Gilding on wood, 401, 499 Gilt cornice, to fix, 500 Glass blowing, 450 Glass engraving, 198, 248 Glass etching, 297 Glass mirrors for cabinet work,
Glazier's diamond, 245
Electrical matters, 47, 95, 195, 345, 498, 594 Electricity as a curative agent, 198
Electro-gilding and plating, 196 Enigma in wood, 399 Epergne in fretwork, 499
Glue, liquid damp proof, 352, 400, 450, 498, 499 Glue, marine, 146 Glue, to prevent from cracking, 133 " Graph " composition, 48, 146
Greenhouse building,
97, 143
INDEX.
Grindstone, truing, 248, 350 Gun barrels, re-browning 145, 24S, 351, 404
1
599
Shampooing mixtures
,
Mowing machine,
398
for, 94
Hammocks,
499
48, 96, 342
Harmoniums,
Sideboard, scale of a, 401 Silk, painting on, 143 Silvering glass, 196, 244 Silver, to frost, 248
Size,
a, 404,
54S
Organ
building, 94, 95, 144, 193, 198, 247, 294, 343, 347, 351, 591
Tndia rubber, vulcanized, 351 Ink for rubber stamps, 500 TV stains, to remove from ivory, 450 Ink for tickets, 198, 297, 298 Iron and steel decoration, 447
Japanning' tin, 147, 298
Joining-
Painting and graining, 344 Painting door panels, 97 Paint, magnetic, 400, 450 Paints ready for use, 144 Paint remover, 498 Painting on terra cotta, 194
Sympathetic
fluids, 146
Photography,
wood by
fill
bolts, 195
Joints, to
up, 498
Lampblack, 147
Lathes, 48, 146, 195, 298, 344, 350, 404, 450, 499
Madrepores, to polish, 297 Magic lantern, transparency for, 145, 401 Mantelboard, 498 Maps, mounting, 97 Marble polishing, 98 Marble, removing stains from, 97 Marquetry work, 97 Matches, to light only on box, 351
Metal, a plastic, 133 Metal-work, varnish, 143 Meteorological instruments, 451 Mice, catching, 296 Microscopes, 297, 403 Mitre box, 246 Mitre cutting machine. 95 Modelling, 48
47, y8, 143, 145, 147, 196, 398 404 Pianoforte making, 97 Pianoforte organs, 245 Pianoforte tuning, 144, 197, 397 Picture-frame making, 197, 245, 403, 499 Pipes from potatoes, 353, 451, 500 Plane stop-chamfer, 402 Plants in fire screens, 244 Plaster of Paris, casting in, 95 Plum stocks for peaches, 42 Plumbers' joints, 344 Polishing oak, 194, 244 Polishing shells, 247, 345, 351 Polishing walnut, 133 Polishing without rubbing down, 397, 403 500 Printing for amateurs, 97, 346 Prints, old, to renovate, 344
Telephones, 47, 96, 295, 398, 594 Telescopes, 401 Tennis court marker, 344 Tissues, uninflammable, 132 Tobacco pipes, notes concerning, 298 Tools, cupboard for, 450 Tools, dealers in, 48 Tools, portable sets of, 47 Tools, sharpening, 144 Tracing paper, varnish for, 352 Tricycling notes, 98, 246, 350 Type metal, 94
298, 350 "Varnish for screen, 401 Velvet, attachment of, to wood, 47
Violin-making, 48, 196, 346, 397, 4)0. Vulcanite, to dissolve, 194, 498
Walls, damp, 345 "Walnut, imitation
Ramrod fixed
of, 344
Relievo maps, 343 Ribbon of Bruges, 351 Roofing small outhouse, 398
Water glass,
90
Waterproof cloth, to join, 145, 297 Waterproofing boot uppers, 197, 248 Wax, casting and moulding, 451 Window-cleaning, chair for, 246, 403
Wire, to straighten bent, 146
Wood, bending,
Wood
Monogram
in fret-work, 499
147, 402, 450, 400
Wood, lling for, 132, 404, 500 Wood, inlaying in the solid, 342
Mounting boards,
351, 403
Wood lice, 244 Wood posts, preservation of, 132 Wood suitable for veneering, 48
INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS.
Path, contrivance for heating, 352 Battery, electric light, 520 Bells, electric, current detector for, 77
Book Book
mode
of fixing, 37
in,
a, 103
Bench, portable cabinet, 45 Bench, stop for, formed of wedges, 143 Blocks for fiddle-making, 315
Bookbinding, finishing operations Bookcase, design for small, 402 Bookcase, folding, 118 Boots, rack for, 513
Bows, ancient
violin, 60, 61
Bracket and frame for wood carving, 387 Bracket in fretwork, a, 540
6oo
Bradawls, haudle
for, 544
1
INDEX.
" Glacier" decoration, examples Gnomon, ornamental, 51
of,
142
Palette knives for china painting, 209 Pantograph, use of the, 808
Gnomons
cores, 569
for sun-dials,
4, 5
Paper-hanging, tools
for, 487
Brass-casting, turned
work and
Grindstone, small, 185 Grindstone, stand for a, 504 Gun implements, case for, 485 Gnu wads, new use for, 110
Halls, brackets Halls, stands
Pianos, celeste action of, 576 Pianos, strings for, 420 Picture-frames, fretwork, 160, 101 Picture-frames, novelties in, 403 Pipes, tobacco, wooden, 298
Camera, details of
Canoe, design for
Carti*idges,
a, 65,
362
a,
385
for, 485
magazine
" Cases," printers', 516 Chair, rustic, 525 Chair, window-cleaning, 246 Chemical apparatus, cheap, 534
Circular saws on lathe, 348, 349
73
to
Hookah, how
make
a, 404,
548
Planing machine, Hazeland's, 307 Planing machine, Shill's pateut, 90 Plough, cutting press and, 2-7 Poultry -ho use, plan of, 8 Poultry-house, skeleton and details of, 8, 9 Press, " Garfield," automatic self-inker, 102
Printing, furniture for, 338, 339
Clock-house, an ornamental,
Coil, induction, 179, 327
180, 181
and
fillister,
Rnbber-stamp-makiug, tools
Knock and
ring," 543
Sash-frame, details
of, 157
521
\
Dial, combination, 53
Lathe, a good amateur's, 139 Lathe, overhead motion for, 292 Lattice-work, oriental, 560 Lawu-mowers, sharpeners for, 449 Lock, cylinder, and key, 448
4, 5
and gnomons,
Lotfel-geige, the, 12
Diapason, scale for, 82 Diaper work for flat surfaces, 15 Doll's house, details of, 476, 477
Doll's house, elevation
in, 580, 581 Soldering, irons and heaters for, 138 Soldering, tools for, 41 Spoon-fiddle, the, 12
and details
429
and carcase of, 334, 335 Door, parts of a, 330 Dovetailing machine, 18-1 Drilling apparatus, home-made, 549 Drilling machine, Makin's, 396 Dryer, American, 119 Dulcimer, details of, 123 Dulcimer, view of completed, 122
Doll's house, plan
Mautel-pieces, construction of tile, 239 Map, sketch, of England and Wales, 106 Maps, relievo, casting frame for, 249
" Star independent boiler," the, 80 Sticks, walking, heads for, 29 Summer-houses, rustic, 322, 378, 416, 464
Telephones, switches Tongs, crucible, 216
for, 280
relievo,
examples
Metal spinning, tools for, 311 Mitre boards for frame-making, 130 Mitre -cutting machine, 44 Models, moving works of a, 424 Modelling, frames for, 202
Modelling, tools for, 149, 152
Tricycle, fork
and steering-gear
for, 285
and elevations
of a, 68, 69
16
Egg
Moulding, relief, board for, 100 Mullers, forms of, 235 11 Multnm-in-parvo " poultry house,
Trypograph, the, 92 Type, method of setting up, 517 Type, parts of letters in, 186
a,
557
Fencing, rustic, 524 Ferneries, designs for, 207, 588, 589 Fernery, ornamental, 472 Fernery, rustic, 114 Filters, construction of, 176, 177 Filtre rapide, Maignen*s, 177 Floors, decoration for boarded, 218, 210 Flower-beds, geometrical, 289 Forge, small portable, 547 Fret-sawing machines, blower for, 398 Fretwork, overdoor in, 512
for, 540
Garden seat, rustic, 525 Gas governor, hydrostatic, 203 Gas heater, patent, 185 Gilding, cushiou and knife for, 318
222, 223 Organ-pipes, details of, 24, 84, 85 Organ-pipes, scale for, 22 Orgau-pipes, tools for making, 24, 25 Organ, stop action of an, 371, 376 Organ-tuners, mechanical assistant for, 155 Organs, coupling action for, 532 Organs, key-furniture for, 272, 273 Organs, pedal action of, 488, 489 Overdoors, designs for, 440, 441, 536 Oxford frames, details of, 306
Vase, rustic, 525 Vice, "standard," instantaneous grip, 45 Violin, /-holes of a, 469 Violin- making, special tools used in, 231 Violin, neck and scroll of, 564, 565
Violin,
peg in back
of, 501
Vivarium, construction of
a, 390,
394
Painting on china, rests and desk for, 453 Painting on china, study for, 457
Walking-sticks, heads for, 29 Windmill, small, 513 White -washing, tools required for. 111 Wood-carving, panels in, 172 Wood-carving, walking-sticks in, 173
Frontispiece.
to face p. 54.
to face p. 376.
...
...
p. 104.
p. 162.
p. 238.
The "Azalea" Mantel Board The " Combination " Saw Stand Home-made Machine for Sawing,
Grinding...
Drilling,
and
...
p. 265
A Fancy
Jardiniere
574.