Wavelength Kayaking Magazine: Summer 2008

Paddling The Pacific Coast and Beyond
july–september 2008
WaveLength MAGAZINE
Paddling Places
Santa Rosa Island • Cascade High Lakes
Brooks Peninsula • Discovery Islands
Alaska's Spencer Glacier • East Coast
PM 40010049
Bute Inlet Grizzlies • Greenland

Plus - Make Your Own Yogurt • Navigation Fat select
R outlets
EE
Finding Fish • Lendal Paddles or by subscription
www.wavelengthmagazine.com
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2 WaveLength Magazine july–september 2008
july–september 2008 WaveLength Magazine 3
Contents
29 36
8 Solitude on Santa Rosa

California's Channel Islands
by Chuck Graham
12 Paddling the Cascade

High Lakes
Oregon
by Suzanne Johnson
24 22
14
18
14 Slipping Past Solander 32

12 The Brooks Peninsula
by Dan Lewis
18 Discovery Islands
Quadra, Sonora,
Maurelle and Read
8 Islands
by Lyn Hancock
28 Alaskan Whistle Stop

The Spencer Glacier
by Dan Armitage
32 Paddling Picks on the

East Coast
Atlantic Provinces
by Keith Nicol

6 Editorial
16
Regular Contributors
16 The Art of the Portage
by Adam Stewart
Dan Armitage is a boating, fishing and
travel writer based in the Midwest. He is
22 Bute Inlet Grizzlies a licensed (USCG Master) captain, hosts a
by Alex Matthews syndicated radio show, and presents kayak
fishing and photography seminars at boat
24 Kayaking the Broughton Archipelago shows.
by Matthew Bowes
36 Greenland–Paddling Through a Sea of Ice Adam Bolonsky is a kayak fishing guide

and fitness expert, based near Gloucester,
by Jean-Luc Grossmann and Rafic Mecattaf
Massachusetts.
22
You can read Adam’s lively blog at
40 Maximize Your Tent Time paddlingtravelers.blogspot.com
by Neil Schulman
42 Kayak Navigation: The Basics

by Adam Bolonsky Dan Lewis operates Rainforest Kayak
Adventures in Tofino with Bonny Glambeck.
250-984-2307
46 Finding Fish
© Mark Hobson photo

www.rainforestkayak.com
Fishing Angles
by Dan Armitage
48 Lendal Kinetic S Paddle 24

Hilary Masson, our Paddle Meals
Gear Locker contributor, is a guide and part owner of
by Alex Matthews Baja Kayak Adventure Tours Ltd.
www.bajakayakadventures.com
50 The Low Brace Lean Turn www.silvabaykayaking.com
Skillset
by Alex Matthews
Alex Matthews is WaveLength’s gear reviewer
51 Yogurt: Keeping the Culture Alive and writes our paddling skills columns. He has
Paddle Meals authored and co-authored several kayaking skills
by Hilary Masson books and has been involved in the design and
development of kayaks.
36 matthewsalex@hotmail.com
52 Book Reviews
54 WaveLength Bookstore Neil Schulman’s writing and photography
have appeared in numerous magazines and
publications. He also does environmental work
56 Coastal News
© Wade Norton photo
in Portland, Oregon.
57 Events
58 The Marketplace
62 Kayaking to Save the Albatross
by Hayley Shephard

editorial
WaveLength magazine
July–September 2008 Volume 18, Number 3

PM No. 40010049
A
Editor – Diana Mumford Diana@WaveLengthMagazine.com
lthough it seems like we've only just begun,
Publisher – Ron Mumford RMumford@PacificEdgePublishing.com
it's time to say good-bye as Ron and I de-
Copy Editing – Jenni Gehlbach liver WaveLength into the capable hands of
Marketing – Frank Croft Frank@WaveLengthMagazine.com its new owner, John Kimantas. Finding our life out
Ben Mumford Ben@PacificEdgePublishing.com
of balance after the acquisition of WaveLength, we were delighted to find that John, expedition
Webmaster – Paul Rudyk paddler, former newspaper editor and author of several BC kayaking guides and atlases, was keen
on taking up the challenge of publishing an outdoor recreation magazine and of adopting Wave-
Writing not otherwise credited is by WL staff. Length as his own. As a result of our timely connection, this is the last issue that we will publish—
Cover Photo: Hole in the Wall, Discovery Islands area, look for changes at www.WaveLengthMagazine.com and the stamp of a new editor in the October
by John Kimantas. – December 2008 issue.
(Cover Photo for the April-June issue was taken by We are more than happy with this unexpected turn of events and confident that John's skills,
Rob Newell of Rob Newell Photography.)
experience and interests will ensure that WaveLength continues to entertain and inform you about
Safe paddling is an individual responsibility. We the pleasures of paddling the Pacific Coast and beyond. Ron and I look forward to having more
recommend that inexperienced paddlers seek expert time to be on the water. Maybe we'll see you in some secluded cove, enjoying the peace and beauty
instruction and advice about local conditions, have all the
required gear and know how to use it. The publishers of this that is ours to honor and share.
magazine and its contributors are not responsible for how the
information in these pages is used by others.
WaveLength is an independent magazine available free
at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling shops,
outdoor stores, fitness clubs, marinas, events, etc.), and
globally on the web. Also available by subscription.
Articles, photos, events, news are all welcome. SPOT Messenger and Personal Locator Beacons - Thanks to John Harper for his research and report.
In a previous article, we reviewed the SPOT Messenger as a potential safety tool for
subscribe kayakers and boaters. A few questions came back on the difference between SPOT and
$18 for 1 year – 4 issues Personal Locator Beacons (PLB). PLBs are a recognized emergency locator beacon that,
$30 for 2 years – 8 issues when activated, sends a signal to the COPAS-SARSAT satellite system where it is relayed
us$ for usa / cdn$ for canada to Mission Control in Trenton, Ontario. Most PLBs include a GPS so the Mission Control
to subscribe: 1-800-668-8806 or can determine the location of the alert and direct the call to the most appropriate re-
www.WaveLengthMagazine.com sponse centre. In the case of west coast kayak incident, it is most likely the call would
be directed to the Joint Rescue Coordination Centre (JRCC) in Victoria. Mission Control
and the JRCC have access to registration information associated with the PLB and will
advertising rates and submission guidelines
available at www.wavelengthmagazine.com
attempt to contact the emergency numbers listed in this registration data as part of
their response.
ISSUE AD DEADLINE Where the SPOT differs from the PLB is that SPOT can provide outside contacts with location data when there is not an emer-
January–March Nov 30
April–June Feb 28
gency, allowing family or friends to track the location of the user via email, text messaging or web. If the SPOT emergency button
July–September May 31 is activated, the signal is relayed to a private company (located in Houston, TX) through the GlobalStar satellite system. This
October–December Aug 31 company determines the position of the alert and contacts the appropriate response agency. In the case of the Canadian west
coast, the JRCC is the agency they would call. Their response time has been good (average of 11 minutes from receipt of alert to
call-out) and like the JRCC, they also immediately contact the emergency numbers associated with the SPOT registration data.
Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to:
The main differences between the SPOT and PLB are: the PLB alerts pass through the COPAS-SARSAT, which is a government
Wild Coast Publishing supported system, and SPOT alerts pass through a private company on their way to the appropriate response centre; SPOT does
2101 Cinnabar Drive, Nanaimo have the advantage of providing location info when there is not emergency.
British Columbia, Canada V9X 1B3
Ph: 1-250-244-6437 Fax: 1-250-244-1937 More on PLBs and COPAS-SARSAT: http://www.nss.gc.ca/site/cospas-sarsat/locaterBeacon_e.asp
1-866-984-6437 1-866-654-1937
Email: info@WaveLengthMagazine.com More on SPOT Messenger: http://www.findmespot.ca/
Website: www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
An interesting article where a hiker in the Highlands of Scotland was incapacitated, activated his SPOT 911 Alert and was medi-
© 2008. Copyright is retained on all material (text, photos and graphics) in this magazine.
No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form, print or electronic, for any purpose, vaced to hospital within 2 hours. http://www.sunderlandecho.com/news/Scotland-SOS-heard-in-Texas.4076827.jp
except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing.
Rescue coordinator, Flight Sergeant Tim Dickinson, said, "This was a perfect example of excellent cooperation between the police
Printed on recycled ancient rainforest-free paper.
at Fort William and the military search and rescue services. "We have rescued a Danish tourist in the Scottish mountains follow-
ing an emergency call from the USA, using a Royal Navy helicopter and coordinated by the Royal Air Force."
Sunderland Echo Newspaper, 13 May 2008 

Cobra
Half moon
Bow
Wetsuit exit
yoga for paddlers
drysuits | wetsuits | neoprene cement | mec.ca

Solitude on Santa Rosa
by Chuck Graham
T he bugle call bellowed from above the

ridgeline, disturbing my deep slumber
where I was tucked away in a gritty al-
cove. Startled, I sat straight up in my sleeping
bag, fumbling for my headlamp. My eyes soon
Nose to Nose with
Spilogale gracilis amphiala
I left my tent at home. I wanted to travel light,
move quickly and break camp with minimal
wasn’t a threat, it stomped its padded paws and
continued foraging for food. It wasn’t alone.
Two little ones waited nearby, creating quite a
ruckus thrashing through the parched grass.
fuss. Sleeping under the stars was the way to
adjusted with the benefit of a full moon, and I Elephants of Santa Rosa
go. Water Canyon campground is one place,
watched the rangy silhouette of a Roosevelt elk When I rounded Sandy Point, the exposed
though, where you don’t want to lay your sleep-
loping across rugged Santa Rosa Island. northwest tip of the island, blubbery northern
ing bag out in the open. Endemic deer mice will
There’s one campground on each of the five elephant seals swam and bobbed near my boat.
use your downed mound as a potential play-
islands in the Channel Islands National Park The big bulls breached the cobalt blue ocean
ground, scurrying across your body, playing tag
off the coast of California, and on Santa Rosa, with bloodshot eyes, revealing their pink necks,
with their siblings and cousins.
the second largest island in the archipelago, raw from countless battles for females and ter-
I solved this conundrum by throwing
beach camping is allowed. The only way to get ritory.
my sleeping pad on top of a picnic table. The
to its nameless coves and deserted beaches and Then, without warning, two young adult
campground was deserted and I slept soundly
to explore its nooks and crannies is by hugging males rose up, breaking the surface of the water
until around 3 a.m. Then a steady thump on
the coast in a kayak, camping on beaches where on either side of my kayak. Their girth caused
the bench of the table woke me up. Quietly I
the only footprints you are likely to see will be huge waves, and their sudden appearance sur-
grabbed my headlamp, switched it to the on po-
yours and the seabirds’. prised me, nearly causing me to capsize. I stead-
sition and looked down. I was literally nose to
On the Channel Islands, restrictions ap- ied my boat, dug in and quickly paddled away
nose with an inquisitive spotted skunk.
ply, self-sufficiency is a must, but the rewards from the craggy point fingering its way toward
Skunks are native on Santa Cruz and Santa
abound for a kayaker dodging rogue waves, San Miguel Island three miles west.
Rosa Islands. This one didn’t flinch and stood
paddling against powerful northwest winds Another elephant once roamed these parts.
its ground, its snout twitching with each sniff
and communing with curious pinnipeds peer- About 20,000 years ago, the archipelago was
to determine what I was. After deciding that I
ing above the canopy of a kelp forest.

ing spray from the exploding waves. Some
young California sea lions frolicked in the tu-
bular conditions, the best bodysurfers on the
windswept isle. Far beyond the cresting swells
and the swaying kelp beds, a lone sea urchin
boat lay anchored motionless on the horizon.
I scrambled up a short, steep bluff with my
binoculars and scanned 360 degrees. The
plume from a whale’s spout floated offshore, a
pair of black oystercatchers pried at barnacle
encrusted mussels, and a herd of Kaibab deer
frozen by my presence stared back teary-eyed
into my binoculars.
Then I came across a once popular but now
ancient beach hangout on one of the many ma-
rine terraces on Santa Rosa—a dense pile of
broken abalone shells, sun-bleached fish bones
and spineless, gutted sea urchins. Known as a
midden, or trash heap, it is evidence of ancient
everyday living on the windswept island. Vari-
ous sites similar to this one, numbering in the
hundreds throughout the chain, are the re-
mains of Chumash villages, burial grounds and
tool making quarries.
The First Islander

Paddling along the coast of Santa Rosa As well as the bones of pygmy mammoth,
Island, one of the Channel Islands. Santa Rosa Island contains the oldest positively
dated human remains in North America, at
13,200 years old. Known as “Arlington Springs
Man,” his remains were discovered in 1959 by
one immense island named Santarosae. Then, ly stretch of sand dunes. Weathered bluffs hov- anthropologist Phil Orr at Arlington Canyon,
the channel crossing from the mainland was ered above crashing surf. California brown pel- where a freshwater spring gently flows to the
a mere five miles, and Columbian mammoths icans, double-crested cormorants and western beach on the west end of Santa Rosa Island.
made the swim across to the island. Seven gulls roosted on knobby pinnacles, enjoying Two femurs were found protruding out of a
thousand years later, those wooly behemoths the warm sun and the occasional light, sooth- crumbling canyon wall along with fossilized
had evolved into a pygmy species only four feet remains of pygmy mammoths and giant mice.
tall at the shoulder. Eventually, the polar ice
caps melted, sea levels rose and the archipelago
formed. This left the mammoths stranded
where they eventually became extinct. About
2,000 years ago the islands reached their pres-
ent size. Today you can find fossilized remains
of the woolies protruding from the walls of re-
mote canyons.
Over fifty archaeological sites containing
pygmy mammoths exist on Santa Rosa Island,
and a complete pygmy mammoth skeleton, the
only one of its kind, was discovered in 1994.
The Maritime Culture of Wima

Wima is what the Chumash Indians called
Santa Rosa Island. After landing my kayak on
another deserted beach, I explored a long, lone-
Arlington Canyon, where the remains of Arlington Springs Man were found.

The canyon is generally difficult to approach
in a kayak because it is exposed to swells pushed
by strong northwesterly winds. Fortunately,
when I arrived, conditions were placid. I glided
in on a feathering wave at high tide. The cobbled
beach was fortified by a flotsam of tangled bull
kelp, shards of driftwood, tattered fishing lines
and punctured buoys. I ran through a gauntlet
of kelp flies, escaping into a freshwater estuary.
The water was clear and sweet and soothing on
my salt-encrusted skin.
Arlington Canyon is narrow and tranquil.
Where the remains of Arlington Man were
found, the first islanders had a terrific vantage
point to watch the sea, retrieve fresh water, fish
and hunt. What is amazing is that Arlington
Man must have paddled some form of water-
craft, migrating down the coast and out to the
island.
Rounding Carrington
The front side of Santa Rosa along the wave-
battered coast was awe-inspiring. For eighteen
miles I dodged consistent surf as howling
northwest winds aided my progress. When I
needed a rest, I paddled into thick kelp beds
that forced the waves to lie down. On a couple
of occasions I ducked inside tiny, secluded
coves with just enough beach to rest and hide
from the weather.
As I was closing in on Carrington Point, a co-
lossal wall of fog engulfed my point of reference,
bearing down on me like a giant wave. When it
swallowed me up I couldn’t see a quarter mile
ahead, but the misty haze cooled my skin and
offered respite from the glaring sun. As quickly
as it arrived, the overcast skies opened up, and
the sheer, broad cliff face of Carrington again
dominated the horizon.
When I rounded its eroding mass, half
moon Bechers Bay shimmered in the after-
noon light. The end of my journey had arrived.
I was thrilled to reach my final destination and
grateful for my discoveries, but equally dispirit-
ed that my thirty-seven mile circumnavigation
of Wima was finished.
Island Info
National Geographic Maps Trails Illustrated of the Channel
Islands National Park shows permitted camping areas on Santa
Rosa. The topographic map explains those restrictions. Call
800-365-CAMP for a beach camping permit.
For boat transportation, call Island Packers 805-642-1393.
For more information, contact the Channel Islands National
Park 805-658-5730. http://www.nps.gov/chis/ 

Paddling the Cascade High Lakes
by Suzanne Johnson
A t the southern end of the Cascade

mountain range in Oregon, nestled
into a curve in the Deschutes River,
the thriving little city of Bend draws in flocks of
tourists to fly-fish the river, mountain bike the
patches of charred tree trunks serving as a re-
minder of the power of wildfire.
Located near the 44th parallel, equidistant
from the North Pole and the equator, the High
Lakes have over fifteen hours of daylight at the
High Lakes and most inviting for an invigorat-
ing swim.
Cutthroat and brook trout populate the lake
and fishing is popular early in the season, drop-
ping off as lake levels diminish. Another 350
trails of the Deschutes National Forest, or wine height of summer. Yet at 5000 feet above sea acres of wetlands and wet meadows extend be-
and dine in the growing restaurant scene. Those level, evening temperatures drop enough to yond the lake, attracting Rocky Mountain elk,
who come to canoe or kayak often assume that keep glacial fields hanging on the peaks year beavers and raptors.
the Deschutes River offers the best paddling op- round. As in many northern latitudes, the sum- The volcanic activity that formed these lakes
portunity, and thereby miss out on the breath- mer days stretch into long golden evenings, but is evident today, especially around the shores of
taking beauty of the Cascade High Lakes. the summer months are short-lived, and every Sparks Lake. Remnants of the lava flows that
The Cascade Lakes Highway winds south- minute is precious. And there’s nowhere better originally diverted and dammed sections of the
west out of Bend, through the Deschutes Na- to spend them than in a canoe or kayak in the Deschutes River now exist as black pumice and
tional Forest and up to the High Lakes, a string middle of a cold, clear alpine lake. basalt formations edging the lake and jutting
of liquid pearls tucked beneath the peaks of The High Lakes encompass over a dozen up as small islands. They are both interesting
South Sister, Mt. Bachelor and Broken Top. The bodies of water ranging in scale from the 110 and hazardous, as the sharp, rough surface can
highway climbs eighteen miles before reaching acre Little Lava Lake, headwaters of the De- make shore access difficult and walking the lake
Mount Bachelor Ski Resort, which is the end of schutes River, to Wickiup Reservoir, which bottom painful. Rafting sandals or water shoes
the road for six months of the year. From mid- covers 10,000 acres at full pool. Sailboat en- with sturdy soles are highly recommended!
November well into May, the snow plows go thusiasts are drawn to the consistent winds of
no farther than the ski resort’s parking lot, and Elk Lake, while waterskiers and wakeboarders HOSMER LAKE
only those on Nordic skis or snowmobiles can head to Crescent Lake or Cultus, where long Continue west on Century Drive past
venture beyond. By late May, the ten-plus feet stretches of calm water can usually be found. Sparks Lake for about eight miles to find Hos-
of annual snowfall has melted, and the Cascade For paddlers seeking clear, calm water with ex- mer Lake. Turn east onto Forest Road 4625 and
Lakes Highway shoots through the valley be- cellent wildlife viewing, Sparks Lake and Hos- drive about a mile to the lake. Before unloading
tween Mount Bachelor and Broken Top Moun- mer Lake are the destinations of choice. the boat or fussing with gear, walk to the water’s
tain, opening a veritable summer playground of edge and activate your senses. Early arrivals can
lakes, rivers and trails. SPARKS LAKE catch the mist burning off the water, while the
The Cascade Lakes Highway is listed by the About seven miles west of Mt. Bachelor on songbirds belt out their own personal anthems,
US Forest Service as an official scenic byway, the Cascade Lakes Highway, Sparks Lake is the and the occasional trout startles the surface in
and is worth the drive just to take in the scen- first of the High Lakes visible from the road. The search of breakfast.
ery. The area’s volcanic history is evident in the lake covers almost 400 acres, with a channel Like Sparks, Hosmer Lake is divided into
looming fields of rough black volcanic boulders linking the northern and southern parts of the two main open areas that are connected by a
and red cinder rock. Towering ponderosa pines lake. Sparks is quite shallow, less than ten feet at channel. With over 150 acres of lake to explore,
and junipers dominate the landscape, with its deepest point, making it the warmest of the you'll want to bring along some food and water

to avoid trips back to the car. The lake water is Trail Alliance launches the first phase of the cooking is required: the resort restaurant serves
clear enough to watch the torpedo shapes of At- Deschutes Paddle Trail. Following two years up hearty fare at breakfast, lunch and dinner.
lantic Salmon, rainbow and brook trout swim- of study, mapping and planning, the BPTA has Dinner reservations are recommended.
ming below—polarized sunglasses define produced a Deschutes Paddle Trail Guide, cov- Each of the High Lakes has one or more rus-
the view even more. The Atlantic Salmon are ering both the Deschutes River and the High tic campgrounds along its shores, maintained
hatchery raised and managed by the Oregon Lakes. The lakes guide consists of a foldout by the US Forest Service. The sites are available
Department of Fish and Wildlife. Their pres- map with driving directions, GPS information, on a first come, first serve basis for RVs or tent
ence improves the fishing capacity for the lake. boat launch and campground sites and safety camping, and during the height of summer,
Hosmer is a flyfish-only lake. Small electric mo- information. It will be available for no cost by sites fill by Thursday afternoon for the week-
tors are allowed, but more fishing is done by July 2008, at the Bend Visitor Center and lo- end. Pit toilets are provided but bring your own
float tube than motorboat, keeping the scene cal paddling shops. More information on the drinking water. Some campgrounds charge a
quiet and serene. Binoculars help to get up Deschutes Paddle Trail, the lakes guide and $6/night fee.
close and personal with the herons and bitterns the river guide are available on the Bend Paddle RESOURCES
stalking frogs in the reeds. One last suggestion: Trail Alliance website (bendpaddletrailal- High lakes campground information: High Lakes Contractors.
mountain runoff water stays cold and weather liance.com). Phone: 541-382-9443. Web: www.fs.fed.us/r6/centraloregon/
changes quickly, so pack a shell or fleece jacket. recreation/campgrounds/
Note: Like most sites maintained by the For- LODGING AND DINING
Canoe and kayak rentals: Alder Creek Kayak & Canoe, 805
est Service, a parking pass is required at all High For a weekend or extended stay, Bend lodg- Industrial Way, Suite 6, Bend, OR 97701. Phone: 541-317-9407.
Lakes boat launch parking lots. Cars must dis- ing options range from campgrounds to cozy Web: aldercreek.com
play an Annual Northwest Forest Pass or Inter- B&Bs to full service hotels. The Bend Visitor Bend Visitor Center, 917 NW Harriman Street, Bend, OR 97701.
agency Pass, or visitors can purchase a day pass Center offers an online guide to lodging and Phone: 800-949-6080. Web: visitbend.com
onsite for five dollars per day. dining at visitbend.com. Elk Lake Resort. Phone: 541-480-7378. Web: Elklakeresort.net
For those who’d prefer to avoid the bustle Deschutes Paddle Trail Guide information: BendPaddleTrailAl-
DESCHUTES PADDLE TRAIL GUIDE of town, cabin rentals are available along the liance.org 
This summer is the perfect time to paddle shores of Elk Lake at the Elk Lake Resort. The
the Cascade High Lakes, as the Bend Paddle cabins are equipped with full kitchens, but no

SLIPPING PAST SOLANDER
by Dan Lewis
photo by Bonny Glambeck
A friend once asked Bonny and me where we would go and what

we would do if we knew we had only a week to live. She found it
remarkable that we responded separately with the same answer:
back to the Brooks Peninsula.
The Brooks Peninsula is the Mount Everest of Vancouver Island’s
I wanted to get off the water, pronto. We decided to head for shore. I
saw a tiny patch of sand, and we snuck in through a maze of boulders in
the surf zone. The patch of sand turned out to be about the size of a tiny
living room, and was covered in bear tracks. Still, it was much better than
paddling in that spooky wind. I passed the evening in existential angst,
coast. Take a look at any map—the Brooks is on the west side, right near wondering what the heck I was doing out there at the edge of the world,
the north end. It juts ten miles out to sea, and the rugged rocky shoreline trying to understand why the wind had picked up so suddenly, and won-
is constantly pounded by swell. The tip of the peninsula has been named dering if and when it would ever die down. The winds did finally ease that
Cape Cook by Europeans, and consists of sheer cliffs rising above a night. We got up early the next day and made good our escape.
minefield of underwater rocks and reefs. It is just north of the Nuu-Chah- A couple of years later I rounded the Brooks a second time, while
Nulth village of Kyuquot, a name meaning “place of many winds.” The circumnavigating Vancouver Island with my pal Pierre. We were young
Brooks was a glacial refugium, never covered by glaciers during the last and hungry for challenges. The westerly wind was already blowing in the
ice age, and thus home to rare endemic plants. The hills were not shaped twenties when we set off. We pounded into headwinds along the north
by ice like the rest of the BC coast, and they are covered with gnarly little shore of the Brooks, rounded Cape Cook, and put up our kites to sail the
trees. You see it immediately and feel it instinctively in your soul—this rest of the way. My kite crashed into the sea, and I floated there amongst
place is different. the boomers, untangling the lines as Pierre disappeared up ahead.
I have only paddled around it three times, and each time has been dra- I finally gave up on the kite and began to surf wind waves, trying to
matically different. The first time it was flat calm, unbelievably so. As we catch up to Pierre. The sun was sinking over the horizon when I finally
set off to round the cape, I pondered the meaning of extreme kayaking. realized I wasn’t going to catch up. I wasn't particularly worried—I felt
“Is this it?” I wondered. “This place is supposed to be so scary, yet it’s like a level of comfort from having been there before, a sense that I knew the
paddling a mill pond.” place and would be okay. Just then Pierre paddled up from the sketchy-
We rounded Cape Cook and began to head south. The wind began to looking beach on shore. “Did you see the huge bonfire I built to guide you
rise so subtly that we didn’t notice at first. It quickly rose to a breeze, then a in?” he asked. Only then did I notice his blaze, completely dwarfed by the
stiff breeze. Within fifteen minutes the winds were howling an estimated immensity of the landscape.
twenty to thirty knots, from the northwest. I love paddling in wind, but The third time I rounded the Brooks was with Bonny, as we kayaked
this wind was blowing offshore, and if we were swept away from the pen- home from Winter Harbour in September—a dicey time of year. The
insula, we would end up drifting down the coast, about ten miles out. weather can be brilliant—clear, sunny, calm—but everyone knows that

winter is coming and there is a sense of waiting for the other shoe to drop. past Solander—next stop Tokyo. We realized there must be a current
The first big storm often hits around the equinox, but it can easily arrive off the tip of the Brooks pushing us backwards. The headwind had also
early. picked up dramatically as we rounded the cape, and was combining with
We approached the Brooks from the north, mid-month. A storm was the current to push us off course.
forecast, so we decided to hole up in the East Creek Valley (see "Night It was time to think fast—no screwing up. We decided to ferry out to
of the Rising River," WaveLength June 2001). After weathering the storm, Solander, which would take us out around the boomers, then use the back
there was a bit of a window, and then another storm was predicted. The eddies along Solander to creep upstream against the wind and current. It
last thing I wanted was to get trapped on the north side of the Brooks Pen- was that or turn back, which would not have been easy.
insula as the autumn storms began, so we decided to make a run for it, Sure enough, the plan worked like a charm. We were easily able to
even though conditions were less than ideal. make progress in the eddies off Solander, and once we had cleared its
By less than ideal I mean: winds forecast from the southwest at up to southern tip, the current and the wind both died down. They must have
20 knots, with combined wind wave and swell height reported at 3.9 me- been funneled between the steep cliffy shores of Solander Island and
tres. We figured we could manage it. With the sea state so huge, we knew Cape Cook. The rest of the day turned into a slog, then a blur. We finally
we would not be able to land on any of the beaches. This meant about pulled out on a sandy beach just after sunset, exhausted and barely able to
twenty nautical miles in the cockpits, so we had better be prepared. stand, let alone haul our kayaks up the beach and set up camp. We were
We spent the day before our departure resting, spreading all our gear famished and had to feed ourselves, then we fell into bed and slept for
out in the sun to dry, and repairing everything that needed repairs—your more than twelve hours.
basic pagan ritual to appease Neptune. We finally pushed off at dawn, un- As these tales demonstrate, it is scary out there and you need more
der overcast skies and light winds. We quickly paddled the north shore. than just paddling skills to survive the Brooks Peninsula. Most people
As we rounded Cape Cook we saw a vast area of boomers, whitewater approach from Kyuquot, and explore the south side, rather than trying
cascading down over all those rocks and reefs between the cape and So- to kayak around.
lander Island—a wee island about a mile off Cape Cook. It is forbidden Our friend was astonished to learn not only that Bonny and I would
to land there as it is an Ecological Reserve, meant to protect the nesting want to do the same thing if time was short, but that we had already done
habitat of seabirds. it. Whatever your dream is, I urge you to go for it. If recreation is not a
We swung wide of all the boomers, trying to go out and around. It priority, it won’t get done! 
became apparent that we were not going in the direction our bows were
pointed; rather we were ferry gliding on a line that would take us right

The Art Of The Portage
Sayward Canoe Route
by Adam Stewart
I n the late 17th century, in the remote forests of New France, troops
of frontiersmen risked their lives transporting fur pelts down the
narrow and rocky rivers of Quebec. The voyageurs, or coureurs des
bois, battled churning rapids and potent winter storms to trade goods and
supplies for the prized furs that were sent to Europe. Life was harsh and
After launching at Gosling, our group enjoyed a leisurely 1.8 kilometre
paddle across this calm, isolated lake. As easy as the paddle was, we quick-
ly found out the adventurous nature to this lake circuit—the portage.
BC Forest Service maintains trails between the twelve lakes, which
range in length from 100 metres to 2.2 kilometres. Most trails are smooth
dangerous. Day after day, these men endured the gruelling task of portag- and wheel-ready, but the odd portage is undeniably challenging. The
ing with a canoe full of goods. Voyageur canoes were usually about 24 feet portage between Lawier and Mohun Lakes, although only 300 metres,
long and 250 pounds, with eight men sometimes bearing a payload of up snakes over slippery rock and dodgy root sections. The rough terrain
to 2½ tons. It’s no surprise that the most common injury was a strangu- makes wheeling impossible, so prepare for some team laboring early on.
lated hernia. Mohun Lake sports a beautiful wooded island, ideal for a lunching or
The art of the portage is as variable as each portage itself. No one tech- camping site, at the start of a 9.2 kilometre paddle. Terminating at the end
nique is enough; rather, the paddler becomes a climber, laborer, engineer, of a long arm at the north end of the lake, the paddling section then leads
dancer, comedian, and most of all, frustrated madman. A taste of the to a long uphill portage. This 1.6 kilometre section is fairly steep in some
voyageur spirit is available on the Sayward Canoe Route, a twelve-lake sections and sporting some washed out areas riddled with gnarly root sys-
circuit on North Vancouver Island. tems and slick rocks. Prepare for a bit of effort and group cooperation to
In the presence of the island’s natural oceanic beauty, the fresh water get fully loaded kayaks through.
pursuit is often forgotten. No need to either put the kayak away for the
season or brave the havoc of the winter Pacific. The sheltered lakes of the
island make for a splendid winter paddle. The Sayward Canoe Route, de-
spite its name, offers a wonderful option for a moderate kayak excursion
through the scenic Sayward Forest.
Devastated by the Great Campbell Lake Fire of 1938, the Sayward
Forest was nearly wiped out by the month-long blaze. Over 30,000 hect-
ares of old growth was destroyed. Fortunately, the devastation stirred a
massive replantation effort the following year, and 800,000 Douglas firs
were planted in only one month. The firs dominate the view from the
lakes, although the odd hemlock, cedar and pine dot the shoreline.
One of the most popular routes for canoes, this circuit covers 48 kilo-
metres of both paddling and portaging over three to four days. While the
paddles are often short and easy on calm, glassy lakes, several of the por-
tages pose a hurdle with a fully-loaded kayak. Thus, wheels are advisable.
Most of the twelve lakes are accessible via logging roads, making for However, this particularly challenging portage is not without its re-
easy put-ins at almost any section of the circuit. Menzies Main logging ward. The trail leads to a low-lying marsh area, with shallow canals twist-
road runs west off Highway 19 north of Campbell River, just past the ing through reeds and other wetland foliage. The canals can be disorient-
Catalyst Sawmill. Access to the lakes is on arteries from Menzies Main. ing, so be prepared to navigate.
Many of the lakes have forestry-serviced Recreation Sites, making them The swamp channels lead to Amor Lake, where there are several small
excellent put-in spots, the main ones being Gosling, Campbell and Mo- islands that are ideal for camping, being just big enough for two or three
hun Lakes. tents and accompanying gear. Following two more short portages and

“We know our stuff”
more wetland channels, the route exits onto Brewster Lake, a 5.2 km
paddle on possibly the most scenic lake of the route.
Past Brewster Lake is a logjam that requires a short logging-road por-
tage to short paddles on Gray, Whymper and Fry Lakes, terminating back getting you out there since 1981
at Campbell Lake. A moderate 8.3 km paddle on more exposed waters
returns to the popular put-in at Gosling Bay.
Although we’ve traded pelts for Gore-Tex and polar fleece, a taste of A Proud “on water” Point 65 North dealer
the frontier spirit is still accessible today. Provided one is ready to put out
some effort navigating a kayak through the forest, the Sayward Canoe
Route offers an exciting and practical excursion through one of the is-
land’s overlooked paddling gems. Just be glad there are no pelts to carry. 1824 STORE STREET VICTORIA, BC. PH 250.381.4233 • TOLL FREE 1 800 909 4233
Adam Stewart is an outdoorsman, writer and native Vancouver Islander.  WWW.OCEANRIVER.COM
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Discovery Islands
Kayaking Off The Radar
by Lyn Hancock
I first battled the rips and rapids of the various Discovery Islands between Van-
couver Island and the Mainland—Seymour Narrows, Yuculta Rapids, Arran
Rapids, Dent Rapids, Hole in the Wall and Surge Narrows—over 40 years
ago in a 15 foot rubber boat powered by a 45 hp outboard motor.
Unlike kayakers, my husband chose to do this at peak flood for more exciting
film footage. I recall enormous logs being gobbled down like matchsticks through
gaping holes in the swirling water and killer whales spouting beside us, cleaving
the same whirlpools. It was nerve wracking to think our motor could stop and we
would be sucked down into the vortex of those treacherous waters.
So it was with some trepidation that I joined a group of Nanaimo Paddlers—
Glenn Lewis, Jean Graham, Ron and Claire Surgenor—to do these waters in a
double kayak with my paddling mate Reale Emond.
John Kimantas, author of The Wild Coast trilogy of paddling guides, described
our route around Quadra, Sonora, Maurelle and Read Islands as “well off the kay-
akers’ radar” and with good cause.
Glenn Lewis, our experienced leader, assuaged our fears somewhat by assuring
us that we would be paddling the rapids during the neap tides of June, just after
the first and third quarters of the moon when there is the least difference between
high and low water. He planned our itinerary to transit the rapids around slack
tide. Once on the water, he pointed out further safety options. Wherever feasible,
we avoided the main current, we chose calmer waters close to the shore and we
utilized back eddies. He emphasized staying together as a group.
The big event of the first day after we launched from the Walcan Road Cannery
on the west coast of Quadra Island was Seymour Narrows in Discovery Passage.
In the late 1700s, Captain George Vancouver called this “one of the vilest stretches
of water in the world.” The two peaks of Ripple Rock that reached within a few
metres of the surface had sunk or damaged 119 vessels and killed almost as many
people. The rocks were removed in 1958, but the waves and whirlpools remain.
To my amazement, I actually missed this famous area of turbulence. I must
have been day dreaming, gawking at the line of yachts and power boats making
their run through the narrows on the Vancouver Island side while we in kayaks,
also one behind the other, sneaked along the edge of Quadra Island on the oth-
er side of the passage. We were slapped around when the wake of the big boats
reached us but I was expecting some of the dangers I remembered from my first
trip. I did warn Reale who was steering our double to stay closer to shore.
“I am compromising,” she countered. “I don’t want to go too close to the rocks,
neither do I want to edge too much into the main current.”
Current? Thanks to our leader’s plan of avoidance, I had scarcely noticed there
was one.
Glenn was waiting ahead. “Well, you just did Seymour Narrows,” he said with
a smile when we caught up with him. I scarcely believed him.
Two days later, we had rounded Sonora Island, camped without incident in
prime bear country, managed to keep our tents above high tide line with bunkers
of rocks and logs, and were planning our strategy for Dent and Yuculta Rapids.
This waterway included a dangerous tidal whirlpool appropriately named Devil’s
Hole.

Timing is crucial for safe transit of rapids, and with
only 45 minutes to travel between Dent and Yuculta, we
could not be in both places at the same opportune time.
Instead, we would have to compromise and try the sec-
ond set of rapids at the beginning of the flood tide.
With jocularity masking our apprehension, we took
the precautions of rising well before dawn, donning wet
suits, doing without a hot breakfast, and clearing the
decks of our kayaks for safer rescues if necessary. We
left our camp under the dour shadow of Estero Peak and
paddled through the tranquility of dawn towards waters
described as “perilous” by John Kimantas.
When we got to Dent we found it more picturesque than perilous. Seals were ev-
erywhere bobbing about in the current. Seabirds were riding the waves. Eagles were
making passes over the water. All were attracted to the abundant fish, which were in
turn attracted by the upwelling currents of the changing tides. We decided to play
safe and bypass Dent Rapids by using Tugboat Passage between Dent and Little
Dent Island. It was still thrilling, especially for our lighter singles, to paddle through
the playful waters and feel their power—manageable power at the time we arrived.
But Yuculta Rapids opposite Stuart Island were still ahead and it would be the
beginning of the flood tide by the time we got there. “Coming up, your next chance
to die,” said Glenn flippantly as he passed me with a smile. “I don’t mind losing one
paddler per trip, no more.”
A few moments later while I was ogling the mountains behind Big Bay on Stu-
art Island for photo-ops, he quipped,” Well, how did you like those whirlpools back
there?”
“Whirlpools? Where?” I asked innocently. Not again!
“You just came through them,” he laughed. Again, Glenn’s good planning had
avoided the dangers of the more infamous rapids.
Later that day, having decided to leave the Rendezvous Islands in Calm Channel
to another trip, we avoided the strong currents at the west entrance of the Hole in the
Wall between Sonora and Maurelle Islands by waiting till slack tide. Some of us spent
several hours dozing on the comfortably smooth rocks of Florence Cove.
Finally, we left the cove and paddled past the lighthouse under Elephant Moun-
tain towards the exit of the passage. We hugged the southern shoreline as closely as
possible, constantly checking the strength of the current. The waters were still too
turbulent. We stopped and waited again, after finding temporary harbors for our craft
among the slippery rocks. Finally Glenn motioned that it was safe enough to make
the turn into Okisollo Channel. I was thankful for his leadership and Reale’s compe-
tent steering.
Ironically, we ran into trouble on the day that four of us left the group while we
were camping on exquisite Francisco Island close to
Maurelle Island in Okisollo Channel. Glenn and Jean
decided to relax at our campsite handily situated on
a narrow neck of land so that our kitchen area faced
Maurelle on one side and our haulout beach and a cou-
ple of our tents faced Quadra and the Octopus Islands
Marine Park on the other side.
It was the only hot, sunny day of the trip and Ron
and Claire, Reale and I were keen to explore every
nook and cranny of the beautiful Octopus archipelago.
Several huge mud flats made it inconvenient at low tide
to land kayaks but there was one usable beach, lots of
clams, sand dollars and moon snails to lend interest,
and even a river in which to wash. If I get back I will
camp there in the grass by the big white stone that

from a distance looked like a house, but close-up was a plaque acknowl- Suddenly we were in the middle of the tidal stream and it was every
edging the private gift to the park of a dozen hectares in 2005. kayak for itself.
If the ease of riding the rapids of the past days had made us nonchalant, “What huge whirlpools!” I heard Claire yell. I turned my head to catch a
the comparative difficulty of returning to our camp on Francisco Island glimpse of her little kayak bouncing around in the white-crested waves.
kept us humble. Unlike Glenn, we hadn’t done enough homework. We “She’s having problems. Let’s go help,” said Reale instantly as she began
hadn’t foreseen the power of the flooding tide that hurtled past our island the turnabout.
We were caught between helping our companion who seemed to be
having problems, the risk of turning over in the tumultuous waters in or-
der to reach her, and the improbability of doing a rescue if anybody fell
out. I didn’t know what to say.
“What should we do?” asked Reale anxiously. “We have to make up our
minds.”
“Ron’s closer to her. All I know to stay safe is to paddle as hard as we can
across the current and get to shore. No help if four kayaks bump into each
other in the current and all capsize.” Still, I felt guilty.
Our double Seaward with its four-arm power definitely had the ad-
vantage in these waters. Reale and I reached the northernmost beach
of Francisco Island with little difficulty, followed almost immediately
by Ron and the irrepressible Claire who insisted that she really wasn’t
in trouble and that she enjoyed the challenge of the whirlpools. I didn’t
know whether to believe her or not. One thing for sure, all of us learned
home once we left the protection of the Octopus Islands to begin the not to take anything for granted.
paddle across the channel. It had been calm on the way over. Currents Our last rapids before the end of our trip at Rebecca Spit was Surge
and counter currents made it turbulent on the way back. Narrows in Okisollo Channel at the southern end of Maurelle Island.
“Let’s head for a point further north than our island,” advised Ron, “oth- The sea had not yet finished its teaching.
erwise the current will push us right past the bay where we want to go.” There are several routes through Surge Narrows. Powerboats use the
Easier said than done. We didn’t get as far north as we needed. It looked wider Beazley Passage between Sturt Island and Peck Island. We had
as if we’d miss the island entirely and never make it back to camp till the been advised against this for kayaks because Beazley is the centre of the
tide changed again. strongest rapids and also has competing traffic. Kayakers prefer the less
We thought of heading for the back side of Francisco Island where it turbulent southern channel between Peck and Quadra or the northern
cuddled into Maurelle, perhaps the water would be calmer there. A good channel between Sturt and Maurelle.
thing we didn’t, as Glenn and Jean told us later that the water was even Planning from secondary sources is not always a substitute for first
faster on the other side. They had watched branches whizzing around the hand experience and even a structured trip should remain flexible. We
same whirlpool for hours. That could have been us. took one look at fast foaming water being hurled above a big rock island in
“Let’s see if we can reach the little bay at the northern end of the island the middle of the southern channel and knew we could not run that pas-
where we can regroup, hug the shore and creep through the kelp to our sage. We looked left but the water was still running too fast for us on the
camp site,” I suggested when we got close enough to communicate. other side of the rocky divide as well. Perhaps the northern channel be-

tween Sturt and Maurelle was calmer but it took more time to get there.
Keeping the northern option open, we heeded Ron’s observation that
Beazley in the middle didn’t look as bad as our southern option so we
lined up behind Glenn and paddled briskly to its entrance. Midstream,
Glenn took a look and agreed with Ron. “Let’s give it a try.” It was half an “We know our stuff”
hour after the low slack and the current was running about 6 knots.
The entrance into Beazley was surprisingly calm but as soon as we ex-
ited the narrow channel between the islands, we slammed into the turbu-
lence. The sea became a stage for whirling dervishes as streams of water
from all the channels joined in the dance.
“Keep going,” screamed Jean to Glenn, “or I’ll bash into you.” There
was little that Glenn could do to avoid her. At the mercy of the eddies, his
kayak swung around and faced hers head on. Jean slipped past in time to
avert collision. Meanwhile, Claire’s kayak was turning circles. I didn’t see
Ron. “Go right,” I shouted to Reale, “let’s get out of here.”
In calmer waters we regrouped for the five hour run in the fog and rain
down Hoskyn Channel to Rebecca Spit on Quadra Island and so com-
pleted our circuit of the Discovery Islands.
“We haven’t lost anyone!” Glenn announced facetiously at roll call. Yes, getting you out there since 1981
due to his detailed planning and our ability to change plans in the light of
personal experience.
Lyn Hancock is an adventurous Aussie Canuck, an author of 19 books and multitudinous articles,
A Proud “on water” Delta Kayaks dealer
a photographer, teacher and presenter based in Nanoose Bay. She calls her kayak Lyn's Ark and
readers of her books such as There's a Seal in my Sleeping Bag and Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon will
know why. Visit her at www.lynhancock.com and lynhancock@shaw.ca. 
1824 STORE STREET VICTORIA, BC. PH 250.381.4233 • TOLL FREE 1 800 909 4233
WWW.OCEANRIVER.COM
{ www.cdkayak.com }
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Bute Inlet Grizzlies
A trip to British Columbia’s
Coast Mountain Watershed
by Alex Matthews
I snap a few wildly desperate shots and then drop the camera from my
eye, ready to flee. Of course, the bear is a good distance away: it’s only the
extreme magnification of the zoom that has fooled me. Our guide lightly
touches my shoulder and gives me an amused grin. I feel foolish, but my
heartbeat starts to slow down to a reasonable rate. I take more pictures as
this awesome animal inspects us and then moves on. Finally, I draw what
feels like my first breath in minutes—the encounter has literally left me
breathless.
Last September my wife Rochelle and I went along on a guided kayak
trip led by my pal Ralph Keller of Coast Mountain Expeditions. Ralph
and his wife Lannie also own and operate Discovery Lodge on Quadra
Island. Quadra is located between mainland BC and Vancouver Island
Photo by Alex Matthews
with ferry service from the town of Campbell River on Vancouver Is-
land.
O ur small group of paddlers stands on a gravel bar where the Al-

gaard Creek joins the Orford River. We’re here to see grizzlies.
Our Xwemalhkwu (Homalco) First Nation guide points far
downstream to a big male making its way back up along the riverbank.
He’s sure that the grizzly will take a path through the bush and emerge
We met up with six other guests at the beautiful Discovery Lodge,
which was to be our point of departure. After a great night’s sleep and
breakfast, we loaded our kayaks and headed out toward the mainland.
Our paddling route took us through Whiterock Passage, to a lunch-spot
on one of the Rendezvous Islands. From there it was a straight shot across
back out onto the beach across the river from us. We hurry into posi- Calm Channel to the BC mainland and our first campsite.
tion and I rush to get my biggest lens fitted to my camera. Just as I swing The following day we began to kayak up Bute Inlet, enjoying the
the Nikon up to my eye, the bear bursts out of the forest. Seeing us, the amazing skyline of the magnificent Coast Mountain watershed, which
big grizzly takes several rapid steps in our direction. His image fills my includes some of British Columbia’s highest mountains. A warm sun beat
viewfinder and emergency bells explode in my head: this bear is way too down on us, even as the water beneath our hulls took on the distinctive
close! icy teal color of glacial runoff.

Having camped out a second and more importantly provides the
night, we paddled the last leg of our needed distance and security to pro-
journey up Bute Inlet to the mouth of tect both visitors and bears.
the Orford River and the Xwemalh- For both days that we stayed at
kwu First Nation’s grizzly bear sanc- the camp we had incredible views
tuary. This is the ancient Papknach of grizzlies, and it was tremendous
village site in the traditional territory seeing the bears work the river. On
of the Xwemalhkwu—a people who shore, our Xwemalhkwu guide took
have shared their home with the griz- us to several viewing locations, but
zlies for millennia and consequently we also used our kayaks to great ef-
have a profound connection to the fect, paddling up the mouth of the
bears and their environment. river for some spectacular views of
Every fall, grizzlies congregate bears.
at the Orford River for the salmon Leaving the camp the following
run, feeding on the fish that head up day we set out paddling back to-
the river to spawn. The salmon run is ward Quadra. Some hours later, as
incredibly important to the grizzlies Photo by Rochelle Relyea prearranged, Lannie met us in the
because before they head back inland lodge’s boat. Displaying the perfect
to hibernate for the winter, the bears timing of the true professional, she
need the big protein hit that only gorging on salmon can provide. Nor- appeared just as the first drops of rain began to fall. In no time, our kayaks
mally, grizzlies would never tolerate so many other bears in such close were loaded aboard and we were soon back at the lodge. Tucking into an-
proximity, but the rich resource of the salmon-filled river is enough to other beautiful meal, we swapped stories, relived events and marveled at
force a truce, at least for a little while. the magnificent grizzlies that we felt so privileged to have seen.
The Xwemalhkwu First Nation maintains a small hatchery on the For more information contact:
Orford and offers guided bear watching tours. We stayed at their camp, Coast Mountain Expeditions
which consists of basic logging-camp style accommodation. While it’s www.coastmountainexpeditions.com 
not luxurious, its simple utilitarian approach is reasonably comfortable,
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Kayaking the
Broughton Archipelago
“Enjoy Our Beautiful Country”
by Matthew Bowes
S prawled out on Bill Proctor’s dock amidst

a mess of charts in the afternoon sun, I
am absorbed in a scene framed by the
image of the freshly painted “Ocean Dawn,” a
beautiful classic troller built for open waters by
points, awls and hammer stones. The trolling
spoons on the wall hang in testament to the
commercial fishing history on the coast. An ad-
jacent building sells local art, crafts and litera-
ture. I like dropping by the Proctors’ because it
with a heightened sense of place to carry away
with them.
On a typical trip during the summer , after a
week spent camping on secluded shell midden
beaches and weaving through a dizzying maze
second generation Vancouver shipwright Mor- offers a glimpse into rural coastal life and its his-
ris Gronlund. The boat is set against a backdrop tory, and Bill is always happy to talk or “bulls...t”
of glassy water and homes perched along the with my groups about his home—“the area
densely treed, steep, rocky shoreline of Proc- from Drury Inlet to Johnstone Strait … called
tor’s Bay. the Broughton Archipelago by government
I have known Bill casually for about eight agencies, but the residents of the area simply call
years since I began bringing my kayaking it the Mainland” as described by Bill and Echo
groups into Echo Bay as a guide on commer- Bay writer Alex Morton in Bill’s life story, Heart
cial sea kayaking trips in the Broughton Archi- of the Raincoast. Moreover, they contend “[t]here
pelago and Johnstone Strait. A visit to Billy’s are very few family homesteads left on this coast
Museum situated on the Proctor homestead is and here is unique, with three generations liv-
always a highlight of these trips. Lining the floor ing on it until 1997…”
and shelves are artifacts, or what he calls “junk,” of islands, we paddle slowly into Echo Bay’s
collected during a lifetime of logging, fishing small, protected harbor. A faded pictograph
and beachcombing. The scene always reminds on the steep south-facing cliff at the entrance
me of Martin Alderdale Grainger’s Woodsmen beckons, and the Windsong Sea Village with its
of the West description of the shops on Cordova funky disarray of brightly painted float houses
Street in Vancouver in the early 20th century: comes into view on the north side of the bay.
You come to shops that show faller’s axes, swamper’s These houses display a decidedly Caribbean-
axes—single bitted, double bitted; screw jacks and like disposition in contrast to the characteris-
pump jacks, wedges, sledge hammers, and great tic diffused light of the west coast, which Echo
seven foot saws with enormous shark teeth… Bay artist and writer Yvonne Maximchuk of
Antique bottles are lined up on the shelves Sea Rose Studios (www.zoombuy.net/searose.
in translucent rows, and glass topped wooden html) described to me once as “mother of pearl
boxes house large displays of ancient projectile A visit to Echo Bay is always complemented white.” On the south side of the Bay sits the Echo
by a stopover on Village Island further south Bay Store and Resort. (Editor's Note: Echo Bay
in the Archipelago at the beginning of our Resort has been purchased by Pierre and Tove
kayaking trips: the site of a large abandoned Landry and is now operating as Pierre's at Echo
native village which is documented vividly in Bay.)
J.P Spradely’s Guests Never Leave Hungry: The We land on the white midden beach at the
Autobiography of James Sewid, a Kwakiutl Indian. head of Echo Bay, and set up camp high on the
These places bookend our journeys through the meadow above the rim of black soil and shell
islands, inlets and open sea between. These visits bank built up during thousands of years of hu-
also provide experiences from which a cultural man settlement. Other times we paddle one
landscape is formed in people’s imaginations bay further to Bruce and Josee McMorran’s
to enrich and frame their paddling experience Paddler’s Inn (www.paddlersinn.ca), a rus-

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tic and cozy wilderness kayaking lodge with
worldclass views and paddling at its doorstep.
Its heart is the main float house with warm,
lantern lit rooms, hot showers and inviting
atmosphere. In a past life this building was a
church, and stained glass windows still glow
reverently as if in religious testament to the sur-
rounding glory and splendor of islands, ocean,
trees and mountains. Its pulpit is a large, hostel
style kitchen where hungry paddlers preach the
gospel of kayaking over self-prepared meals. If
you choose the catered option, Josee’s cooking
can be described as no less than fresh, heavenly
and organic.
Inevitably, wherever I end up staying, I even-
tually wander off to the Proctor homestead by
walking past the community hall in Echo Bay,
nestled in the meadow beside Echo Bay Marine
Park, past the Echo Bay School and across the
tidal flats. Much of Bill’s personal history, envi-
ronmental values, and political views are well
known, as he has published them in Heart of
the Raincoast and in an award winning history
of the Broughton Archipelago Full Moon Flood
Tide, co-written with Yvonne Maximchuk.
Both books describe a passion, intimacy, depth
of knowledge and deep connection to the land
gained by exploration of its islands and deep
inlets as a commercial fisherman, a logger and
a trapper.
I once asked Bill to describe or define his
Celebrating 36 Years
sense of this place by inquiring, “do you have
one sentence to describe the area or what the
area means to you?” This question elicited a
www.easyriderkayaks.com thoughtful pause and a good natured, hearty
kayaks – canoes laugh. Bill shook his head and exclaimed a
rowing shells jovial, “I don’t know. I have no idea,” that ex-
catamarans
outriggers pressed the obvious difficulty in trying to de-
sail rigs scribe something so complex. He declared,
catalog package & video: “Anybody comes and leaves here, I always tell
factory direct $20 ppd. (see website) them to enjoy our beautiful country.”
Canoe & Kayak Co. Matthew Bowes is a Gabriola Island based writer and photogra-
pher. Matt and partner Jen Smith own and operate Gabriola Sea
Kayaking. www.kayaktoursbc.com 
P.O. Box 88108 Seattle, WA 98138
425-228-3633

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Wavelength Magazine
Ocean
3.375" River’s Jon LaCroix.
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December, 2007
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Alaskan Whistle Stop
SPENCER GLACIER BY RAIL AND PADDLE
by Dan Armitage

T he sky-blue ice matched the color
of the bottle of premium gin I had
stashed back at my room, and as each
paddle stroke brought me closer to the glacier, I
considered chipping off a cube to chill a shot or
three of the liquid Sapphire as a fitting way to
end an eventful day.
Before I could act, Mother Nature per-
formed the honor for me, causing the glacier to
calve a Camry-sized chunk of blue ice that set waterway that might mark the elusive route. The There, two giant canoes were pulled up onto
the canoe bobbing in its wash. No small effort stretch of shoreline is rich in wildlife from bald the sand, each more than 30 feet long display-
that, as the craft carrying me was an anatomi- eagles to wild salmon and the beluga whales ing the lines of traditional watercraft used in
cally—if not materially—correct reproduction that follow the fish, and my nose was tight to the the region, with extended prow and exagger-
of a freight canoe that might have plied these window glass the entire hour-long ride. ated stern, and painted with traditional Haida
same Alaskan waters two centuries ago. Mea- Just past the first stop at Girdwood, Alaska’s designs.*
suring 31 feet bow to stern and 54 inches across famous ski resort at the base of Mount Aly- After a shore lunch prepared by the guides,
the gunwale, the canoe carried eight of us, each eska some forty miles down the line, the train we donned PFDs, were issued laminated ash
with a blade in hand and stroking in unison to- leaves the mainline for a twelve-mile spur to paddles, and boarded the canoes, two abreast
ward the towering wall of ancient ice. the port of Whittier. Known as the gateway to with a guide at the stern.
The voyage toward Spencer Glacier was just Prince William Sound, the trip includes an ee- Primarily a solo kayak paddler, it was strange
part of one of those rare paddling adventures rie passage through the longest combined rail- for me to be in so large a manual-powered craft
that began long before we wet a hull. The fun highway tunnel in North America, at 2.5 miles. propelled by so many arms—sort of like riding
commenced back in Anchorage, fifty rail miles After the stop at Whittier to offload anglers and in a full-sized SUV after hopping off my motor-
up the line, when I boarded a train to take me to sightseers boarding boats at the scenic port, the cycle.
the remote site where I would see my first gla- train returns to the main line to continue its trip On the other hand, paddling the multi-per-
cier up close and personal. toward Spencer. To do so, the route follows the son craft was like playing a team sport again af-
The Alaska Railroad recently began offer- rugged Placer Valley through a remote, roadless ter a season of singles tennis; I enjoyed the effort
ing a creative mix of rail and paddle packages to region filled with wildlife and overseen by nu- at coordination required to bring all the blades
its more adventurous passengers who want to merous glaciers. into a rhythm and stroking in unison. Once
reach out and touch some of the state’s natural The Glacier Discovery train next stops at we mastered the commands and practiced the
wonders. One of the newest offerings is the op- Portage, where personnel from Chugach Ad- turns, stops and other maneuvers taught by
portunity to paddle a canoe to Spencer Glacier, venture Guides board the car and meet the pas- our guide, the canoe cruised as if powered by a
tucked deep in the Chugach National Forest. To sengers taking the canoe tour. Our guides in- single force, and the effect—and the power—
get to the site, the Glacier Discovery train leaves troduced themselves, explained what we would was thrilling.
Anchorage at ten in the morning and follows be likely to see along the paddle route, answered So was the destination: the sheer face of the
the shore of the Turnagain Arm of Cook Inlet, questions and outfitted us with rubber knee- glacier that towered higher overhead with each
so named because it was the spot that Captain boots and raingear for the damp, overcast day. centipede-like stroke of my fellow paddlers. We
James Cook decided was as far as his quest for Within minutes the train slowed. Peering actually had to dodge several icebergs that had
the Northwest Passage would lead him, and he through the window I could see the brilliant calved off the ancient river of ice, cruising close
ordered his ship to turn around to seek another blue of the glacier, less than a mile from the enough to verify that the ice that appears above
Photo-Left: The Alaska Railroad makes a whistle stop at Spencer to offload pad- tracks. The train stopped and the dozen of us the waterline represents but a fraction of what
dlers who plan to canoe to its namesake glacier. The 50 mile train ride alone is spec-
tacular, following the rugged and road-less Placer River valley from Anchorage.
who had signed on for the canoe paddle to the the berg holds submerged below.
glacier got off and boarded a bus for the two- The water wasn’t close to being as clear as the
Photo-Top Right: Naturalists explain and help identify the flora and fauna that
paddlers will see during the canoe trip to Spencer Glacier. minute ride to the beach at Spencer Lake. gin I hoped to chill with its source—the min-

ute particles of rock and debris that the glaciers
push around and suspend eventually shed off
into the water as the bergs melt. Still, you can
often see several feet below the surface, depend-
ing on the state of the lake’s turbidity. But it is the
sights above the waterline that have awed and
inspired visitors to Spencer Lake for centuries,
and shouldering up to a hunk of ice that may be
several thousand years old is not something to
shrug off—or turn your back upon, as warned
by our guide. You may get anything from a The Canoes
faint groan to a sound as sharp as the crack of Clipper Canoes’ Northern Dancer model was devel-
a rifle to warn you as a chunk is shed from the oped at the urgings of noted Canadian artist Roy Henry
ice wall where it meets the water, and you bet- Vickers. It is a canoe true to native design, but has been
built with modern materials. According to Clipper Canoes,
ter be ready to paddle clear of the phenomenon
the bow and stern of the Northern Dancer are true to
known as “calving.” time-honored First Nations lines and designed by Vickers.
You also need to hold on, for the waves gen- The hull was produced by Canadian canoe designer James
erated by the future icebergs when they hit the van Nostrand. The Northern Dancer weighs a fraction of a
water can easily swamp an ill-balanced boat far traditional dugout canoe, and has all the aesthetic beauty
larger than the Big Canoes we were aboard. of the boats that are considered national treasures.
After we checked out the glacier from water The Northern Dancer is manufactured in fiberglass with
level, we beached the canoes on the gravel next Kevlar® and “S” glass reinforcing. The unique hull design
makes it responsive for as few as 5 or 6 paddlers while it will
to the ice’s edge and hiked atop the frozen mass,
handle up to 9 or 10. This canoe has been used extensively
past ice caves and giant crevasses. Standing on the West Coast, from the Columbia River to Alaska. It is
atop Spencer looking down at the water below equally at home on large rivers and lakes.
as cloud-shrouded mountains towered over an Large canoes, those exceeding 22 feet, are often referred
icy landscape broken by countless kettles and to as “war” canoes, particularly in articles written in the
moulans, I realized it was the best place I’d visit- early 1900s. Today the craft are referred to as “Big Canoes,”
ed yet to soak up the scenery that makes Alaska encompassing the many styles and shapes paddled in
such an appealing place to visit. Knowing that North America today.
the only way to get to the spot was by rail and For more information:
Clipper Canoes, 1717 Salton Rd., Abbotsford, BC V2S 4N8
866-644-8111 westerncanoe@telus.net 
paddle made it all the more special.
If You Go
For more information about the Glacier Discovery Spencer Photo-Top: A juvenile iceberg recently calved by Spencer Glacier retains the eerie
Glacier Canoe Paddle, which sells for $181 per person roundtrip blue that marks it as glacier ice.
from Anchorage, contact the Alaska Railroad at 800-544-0552 Photo-Sidebar: The historically correct, reproduction “Big Canoes” accommodate
/ AlaskaRailroad.com or Chugach Adventure Guides at up to ten paddlers who team up to power the voyage to the glacier—a new experi-
877-783-2004 / info@alaskanrafting.com ence for kayakers who primarily go solo.

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Paddling Picks on the East Coast
by Keith Nicol
Bottle Cove to Lark Harbour
W ith close to 30,000 kilometres of shoreline, the best way to

explore the four Atlantic Provinces is in the seat of an ocean
kayak. The following suggestions will point you to just a
small portion of what the Atlantic region offers to the sea kayaker. In the
Summer 2007 issue of WaveLength Magazine I provided one great pad-
Other paddles in the Bay of Islands include trips to Woods Island,
Seal Island or Governor’s Island. Get a weather forecast in advance, since
winds can come up quickly in this area and kayakers have been stranded
on the islands while they waited for winds to die down. For more infor-
mation, contact the City of Corner Brook at www.cornerbrook.com.
dle pick from each province; this article continues with that approach.
Let’s start with the province with the longest coastline, Newfoundland
and Labrador.
Bay of Islands, Newfoundland and Labrador

You could paddle along a different shoreline of Newfoundland’s
17,000 kilometres of beaches, sea stacks and bold rocky cliffs every sum-
mer for many years and still never see it all. But one area that provides a
huge variety of paddling opportunities in a relatively small area is the Bay
of Islands, near Corner Brook on the province’s rugged west coast. De-
pending on the weather, you can choose to paddle along monstrous 300
– 400 metre cliffs or to numerous offshore islands complete with sandy
beaches and great camping spots. Since some of the shoreline in the Bay
of Islands is lined with communities, and put-ins are numerous, you can
easily spend several days here exploring different areas.
For light wind days, a classic paddle is to circumnavigate South Head Malpeque Bay, Prince Edward Island
Lighthouse. We usually put in at the sandy beach in Bottle Cove (at the
end of Highway 450) and then head out into the open Gulf of St. Law- Last summer we paddled in PEI, and one of our favorite trips was to
rence. Off shore you can see glacially sculpted Guernsey Island, one of Malpeque Bay, famous around the world for its oysters. We sampled the
the islands that stands guard at the entrance to the Bay of Islands. There oysters one evening in a restaurant and although some people like them
are not many pullouts along the first 6 kilometre stretch, so only attempt raw, we preferred them fried or broiled. Malpeque Bay Kayak Tours is
this trip when the swell and winds are light. Once you round South Head a fine place to start if you want to explore this area. Anne Murray runs
Light, the wind and waves usually drop off and there are several acces- a kayak operation here, with numerous tours and programs including a
sible beaches for lunch breaks. Be sure to stop for photos where a water- kayak-art class which runs on Thursday evenings through the summer.
fall empties into the ocean, and at high tide you can paddle through an Local artist Anne Gallant accompanies the group and they paddle to
elegant arch closer to the take-out at Lark Harbour. The total trip is about nearby Ram Island and set up with sketchpads on the beach. On our trip
13 kilometres and can easily be done in three to four hours. we joined a large group of eleven other paddlers for the regular half-day
6 – 7 kilometre circumnavigation of Ram Island. Since Malpeque Bay

is fairly shallow, it warms up very nicely through the summer and even
though the day was overcast, the chop spraying across our decks and
arms was refreshing. The island has a huge population of cormorants
and their guano has started to denude the trees in the area, producing
eerie skeleton-like structures. Anne Murray told us that this area has the
highest population of cormorants on PEI and that Malpeque Bay is an
internationally recognized site for its rich bird populations. As we pad-
dled around the island, the cormorants were everywhere, swooping and
searching for food. When we stopped on the north end of the island for a
snack, our guides provided an overview of the region’s human and natural
history. The Mi’kmaq Indians were early users of this bay and knew of its
richness long before Europeans settled here in the 1700s. Malpeque Bay
Kayak Tours offers other half-day and longer trips to other destinations in
the area. They can be reached at www.peikayaks.ca.
Ocean River’s
senior instructor/guide,
Gary Doran.
Deer Island, New Brunswick

Last summer we also were fortunate to get to Deer Island and had an getting you out there since 1981
epic day there paddling with Seascape Tours. Deer Island is in the south-
west corner of New Brunswick very close to the US border. We knew
things were off to a good start when we had barely begun paddling be-
A Proud “on water” Current Designs dealer
fore our guide, Bruce Smith, pointed out the flashing backs of a school of
porpoises just to our right. “They are probably chasing the herring which
are running right now,” he said as we paddled our double kayaks out to-
ward Helena Island. We had joined Seascape Tours for a full day paddle
in the island-studded Bay of Fundy near the Maine and New Brunswick WWW.OCEANRIVER.COM
border. This part of the Bay of Fundy doesn’t have the huge tides of its up-
per reaches, but at 6 – 7 metres they are still a force to be reckoned with,
especially in the maze of islands just off Deer Island and Passamaquoddy Sunshine Kayaking
Bay. “We plan our daily paddles for the wind and weather of the day as Rentals Lessons Sales Tours
well as what the tides are doing,” says Bruce, “but with all of the islands we Helping you discover the Sunshine Coast since 1991
can usually find an interesting place to go.”
On this day, the wind was gusting at 30 plus km/hour from the north-
west, so we paddled in the lee of several islands and got as far as Barnes FEATURING O ut There
ou
Island where we had lunch. Most of the islands here are uninhabited and gY
ttin
have small beaches in between the otherwise rocky shoreline. The islands
Ge
are generally composed of shale, conglomerate and other sedimentary

rocks and are capped with a mix of shrubs, spruce and fir. This area has a A beautiful 40 min. ferry ride from Vancouver to the Gateway of the Sunshine Coast
rich marine life and we paddled past the unusual wooden fishing weirs for Molly’s Lane, Gibsons, BC Tel: 604-886-9760
which this area is well known. These permanent fishing traps catch fish www.sunshinekayaking.com
8
1
e 19
july–september 2008 Sinc
WaveLength Magazine 33
like herring that swim along the shore. Eagles were also abundant and two
were swooping over us while we ate lunch. In the afternoon we paddled
past Mowat and Simpson Island and caught sight of two fin whales that
were being followed by a local whale watching boat. As we returned to
Northwest Harbour, we were accompanied by the bobbing heads of har-
bour seals. This area certainly has much to recommend it for sea kayaking
(see www.seascapekayaktours.com for more information).
Your Mothership Repair Specialists
Lower Prospect, Nova Scotia

Two summers ago we spent two weeks paddling in Nova Scotia. One of
our favorite areas was Lower Prospect (near popular Peggy’s Cove), which
is just a thirty minute drive south of Halifax. There we joined Dave Alder,
who runs East Coast Outfitters (ECO) for a half-day paddle amongst the
bold granite islands of Lower Prospect Bay. We were impressed with the
variety of paddling choices accessible from this spot—from tricky rock
hopping amongst the breaking swells for expert paddlers, to protected
channels for novices. We paddled through the “Window” into the moder-
ate swell along the shore of Ryan and Shannon Islands.
We were now in pond smooth water as we headed to a sandy beach
on Hearn Island. The turquoise water almost looked like the Caribbean,
but touching our toes in the water reminded us that we were still in Nova
Scotia. Then it was back through a neat little channel on the other side of
Shannon Island, past a small island full of cormorants to our dock and
put-in point. Here we enjoyed a full lobster feast complete with wine and
all the fixings. ECO offers a full range of programs from guide training to
multi-day trips and has a fleet of over fifty kayaks available. Dave Adler
explained that for those interested in multi-day trips, there were many op-
tions. “One great trip is to paddle from our operation near Mahone Bay/
Lunenburg to this location in Lower Prospect. This takes six days and can
be done either as an all camping option or all bed and breakfast or a com-
bination of the two. For those people interested in shorter one or two-day
overnight camping trips, we have that option here at Lower Prospect or in
the LaHave Islands, near Mahone Bay.” For more information on these
trips contact East Coast Outfitters at www.eastcoastoutfitters.net
Contributors Keith and Heather Nicol are avid sea kayakers. Keith Nicol has a popular Atlantic
Canada Paddling web site at www.swgc.mun.ca/~knicol 

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Greenland – Paddling through a Sea of Ice
Story by Jean-Luc Grossmann and Rafic Mecattaf
Photos by Jean-Luc Grossmann
45 days paddling off Greenland’s northwest coast, in the endless summer days of the midnight sun—this is the adventure lived by four outdoor
enthusiasts who were overwhelmed by the light on the icebergs and the blow of the whales.
The sun is low on the horizon and the sea is calm. Soon the village of Uummannaq, with its heart shaped mountain, disappears behind us. Our sea
kayaks point toward the massive island of Storøen, 8 kilometres away. Its fiery-red lighted cliff drops 1000 metres vertically into the sea and attracts
us like a magnet.
We are at a latitude of 70° 40’—well north of the Arctic Circle. Here, far away from the rush of civilization, we have all the time in the world to observe
the magical spectacle of nature. Under the midnight sun, the sea is first crimson / blue and its surface becomes so glassy that everything is reflected
as in a mirror. Mountainsides light up in powerful reds, shadows lengthen, and the icebergs seem to be under a giant spotlight.
DAILY LIFE our own bread. If necessary, we melt ice for drinking water. While
sleeping, we recharge the batteries for our satellite phone, VHF, GPS
Little by little we get used to the icebergs and are better able to
and radios with the help of our solar panel.
judge how close we can safely approach them. From these f loating
When a site seduces us, we stay for several days and explore the re-
mountains that appear so calm, large blocks of ice make a thunder-
gion by foot. Our long walks are rewarded with amazing views of col-
ous racket as they crash into the sea all around us, creating breaking
lapsing glaciers and fjords full of icebergs. On the horizon the white
waves, full of giant lumps of ice. At one point, we watch as a huge ice
surface of the inland ice stretches endlessly.
break creates a wave over three metres high.
We wash in seawater and where possible, rinse ourselves in the
clear freezing water of small freshwater streams, following a ritual we
named for fun “the full body wash.” The climatic conditions allow
such a ceremony only every week. We keep a journal and take notes
of the GPS points of each campsite and the distances paddled.
We sometimes observe the spurts of whales, backlit by the mid-
night sun and glowing from afar. Other times we locate the whales
from the sound of their blows, which can propel the water spurt more
than 10 metres in the air. This characteristic sound echoes over the
sea, and we hear it from a distance of more than 5 kilometres! Curi-
ously there are many fewer fin whales compared to our first expedi-
tion in this region in 2005. We think this is due to the large amount
of ice this year.
The fact that the summer days last for 24 hours does not disturb
our sleep. We find a rhythm and make steady progress of 10 – 40
kilometres each day. We can keep up a pace of 6 or 7 kilometres an
hour when the wind or the current are not against us, which, unfor-
tunately, they often are. The wind generally blows from the north,
but when the sun warms the land for several days, the thermal wind
coming off the inland ice can reach Beaufort 8!
Numerous towering cliffs dropping abruptly into the sea often
prevent us from going ashore to make camp. Many days we have to
paddle further than we had planned, before finding a campsite. Every
evening (or morning, depending on the time of day paddled) we set
up camp in some little terrestrial paradise that is only marred by the
presence of satanic mosquitoes! We fish, collect mussels and make

On our left, the cliffs drop abruptly into the sea and give us no
possibility of getting ashore. We have 30 kilometres behind us and
large plates of pack ice block our way at the exit of the channel. In this
labyrinth of ice we paddle as a group and stay as close as possible to
the shore as we don’t want to be smashed between moving ice plates.
On several occasions the coastal ice is too thick to pass through and
we have to pull our kayaks for several metres to reach the next open
water channel. The rain is now changing to snow and the wind drops.
After 40 kilometres we finally find a place to camp. We don’t have the
strength to cook and instead improvise a meal. This evening we fall
asleep within seconds. Yes, it was a hard day. One of those days that
make you feel alive!
THE WHIMS OF NATURE UP HILL AND PLAINS

On Day 14, we enter the narrow fjord of Inukavsait. The sky is The entrance of the Uvkusigassat fjord is now only 15 kilometres
filled with heavy clouds, exhibiting a full range of greys. The rain car- away, a distance that we have to paddle in open water. After a good
ried by the wind is whipping my face. I pull energetically on the shaft dinner we walk to the top of the island to check the crossing for the
of my paddle while staring at the dark horizon filled with small tufts next day. We are surprised to discover once more that large plates
of white foam. A gull passes in front of my kayak before rising with of ice are blocking our way. This makes us think that the end of the
break-neck speed, its cry choked by the wind. The clouds are lifting fjord may still be frozen. Next morning we decide to go for it and
and shortly we have a view of steep cliffs, a mountainous chain with paddle around the plates of ice where seals are resting. After almost
bizarre shapes, some glacier tongues f lowing to the sea and an arch three hours we reach the entrance of the fjord without too much dif-
perfectly sculpted in the middle of a huge iceberg. A multi-faceted ficulty, but get stuck 500 metres later because of very dense pack-ice.
landscape appears before us! The wind starts to blow and a little rain starts. We go to sleep and are
The atmosphere is surreal and we wish to stay a moment, observ- not sure if it will be possible to go on tomorrow.
ing the whims of nature, but we listen to our instincts, small inner Early in the morning we are pleased to see that while we were
voices that warn of danger and dictate caution. sleeping the wind blew all the ice out and a cloudless blue sky took
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the place of the rain. The dream of paddling to the end of the 100
kilometre fjord and crossing the land of J.P. Koch on foot lives on.
We are entering the inner fjord. We are the first this year to enter
this almost unknown territory and we enjoy its pristine nature. Clear
water streams coming from the snowy mountains fall into the sea
where countless seals seem to want to follow us on our adventure.
We need three days to reach the end of the fjord where a marshy zone
awaits us which we must cross before reaching the mainland 5 kilo-
metres away.
We wait for high tide and start to go up the river but we are forced
to give up the battle because the current is too strong. We then pull
our kayaks through the windings of the river in 3°C water that often
comes up to our hips. And we have to react fast because of quick sand.
We reach the mainland around midnight, exhausted, but also happy
to have reached the end of the fjord, where some ducks and geese are
staying for the summer.
Next day we decide to take a day off and explore the region be-
fore starting the long 40 kilometre crossing pulling the kayaks to get
to Upernavik further north. We climb onto a f lat mountain above
Oct 2008 Halong Bay Outer Limits exploration and staff training our campsite and find two musk oxen grazing on the grass in front
Nov Ranong multi-experience exploration of us. They don’t see us and we observe these animals, impressive
Dec Tarutao Kayak Camp - Xmas/New Year
Jan 2009 Phang Nga Bay clean-up - one week Jan 14 - Ling Yai is 64 because of their size, power and calm. We hide behind a large stone, a
Feb Coron Island Kayaking & Love Affair With Nature
Mar Andaman Island Hopping - Tarutao to Phuket (or vice versa) bit intimidated and not sure how to react. Twenty minutes later they
April New Caledonia notice us and run away down the hill.
May Fiji Outer Islands
June Festival of the Forest, Puerto Princesa After a good night we start the 4-day crossing that will always stay
July Tahiti, possibly Marquesas
August Footsteps of Hi’i’aka - Big Island, Hana Coast, Moloka’i, Na Pali - one week each in our minds. We form two teams, each pulling one of the kayaks
Sea Kayaking the

Great Bear Rainforest
on the Northern Coast
of British Columbia.
Contact: Norm Hann
604.785.2999
norm@tantalusadventures.com
tantalusadventures.com

along the ground with a harness. Then we go back to take the next
kayak. Each kayak weighs 100 kilograms. We pull like crazy for ten
hours a day and try to stay on grassy, less rocky ground. The effort
is intense and the food is rationed because we do not know exactly
how long it will take to reach the next village. Each of us has to push
himself to his physical and mental limits.
We cross three almost-frozen lakes. From far away the second lake
seems impassable, but when we get closer we notice a narrow open-
water channel. We get into it without losing time as we don’t want it
to close in front of us. The points of our kayaks split some small ice
plates, making a noise like a million crystal bells ringing.
On the third day we reach 400 metres above sea level and start to
go down the other side. We are now fine-tuned and move forward
fast. We feel that the sea is close. On day 4 we reach the river we
hoped to kayak down, but we find a wild stream with a huge amount
of water. To get in this would be pure suicide!
Even though we are exhausted, we decide to keep going. The
banks of the river are hilly. We have been pulling for twelve hours
straight. The plain and the hills are passing by. Suddenly, at the top
of a small hill, I see Sylvain raising his arms in the air and shouting.
I join him. An intense joy pervades me and within seconds all my
pains have disappeared. There, finally, is the sea!
An imposing landscape is presented to us. The glittering curves of
Laksefjord contrast with the surrounding islands like a monochrome
photograph. Soon, Rafic and Thomas join us. For a long moment, we
stay here, side by side, our eyes fixed on the sea and we realise what
we have lived through.
UPERNAVIK
It’s 8 o'clock when we pass the north point of the small Island of
Nunarssuaq. Only 30 kilometres now separate us from the village of
Upernavik. The weather is perfect. A light breeze pushes us to the
south. A group of guillemots are soaring above us. We paddle slowly,
savouring each and every second. After 10 kilometres, we find big
slabs of stone on which we decide to camp.
On the following day, the fog that had been blocked by the sur-
rounding islands has put its white shroud around our campsite. Vis-
ibility is reduced to 100 metres.
While we paddle along the coast of the Karrat Island, the sky
clears up and gives place to a cloudless blue sky. There is just time
to take a short break and eat before the mist comes back. This time
we navigate with the GPS. The 5 kilometre crossing to the island of
Upernavik is a slalom run. We pass icebergs, sometimes on the left,
sometimes on the right, so that we can keep approximately on the
!6%-/.%9
right course.
Suddenly the horizon gets darker and the coast appears through
the fog. In a couple of days our adventure will come to an end and a
feeling of melancholy overcomes us. We have travelled a total of 600
kilometres and taken over 350,000 paddle strokes. More important-
ly, we lived for 45 days, away from the rush of human civilization, and
we witnessed the incredible power and beauty of our natural world,
as we lived an intense and unforgettable adventure, navigating a sea
of ice. 
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Maximize Your Tent Time
Twelve Ways to Get Out More Have A List in that order, regardless of what’s in them. You can use a differ-
You probably have a list that says things like mow the lawn, ent system, but be sure you use a system. Chances are that if
clean the garage, and buy more light bulbs. Have one for pad- you don’t, the impatient glares of your paddling partners will
dling trips too, and not the “spend three weeks paddling the inspire you to find one quick.
west coast of Vancouver Island” kind of trips. This list is for trips Organize the Basement
close to home—the island you’ve paddled by but haven’t Keep your paddling and camping gear organized in the
camped on, the cove that promises a sweet sunset view but is basement or the garage. This makes a simple process of grab-
usually a day trip, nearby coastal bays. The list should fit regu- bing stuff off shelves and chucking it into the back of the
lar two-day weekends. Post it on the fridge next to that other car—no trying to remember if the stakes are packed with the
list so you see it often. tent, or where to find the tow belt in a mountain of gear, or if
Last summer, I did an overnight on a place called Sand Is- the VHF is still upstairs on the charger. A particularly organized
land in the Columbia River, where I’d paddled dozens of times. friend of mine has gone as far as to stick a laminated list to
I could have paddled another ten minutes and been home the big tub she throws everything in. The trick is to keep stuff
in another thirty. But instead, I sat in a hammock and read, organized so you can find it automatically—and to remember
by Neil Schulman watched two woodpeckers chase each other around the trees to put everything where it should be when you get back. Now
and the sunset light up the Columbia and Mount St. Helens. all you need to deal with is the chow.
Much better than being home in time to catch a movie.
I
Keep the Pantry Full
f you're like me, you've probably had Plan Wednesday Ah, yes, the “quick stops” at the grocery store where “I just
weekends that you let slip by. The weather Wednesday may seem early to start thinking about the need an onion and two peppers” turns into a 45-minute menu
was great, but you were out having a beer on weekend, but this is the key to getting out more in the sum- re-planning process. Start with a sealed tub in your basement
mer. By Wednesday, I’m usually laying plans, recruiting my with pre-packed, non-perishable camping food that you can
Friday night and didn’t make a plan. You could
paddling buddies, and hatching the plan and a route. I’m look- augment with fresh produce. The perishable stuff you can grab
have gone paddling somewhere, but you fig- ing at charts, tides and currents, which means that I can…
ured that by the time you made a plan, checked on Thursday, now that the rest of the gear sorting only takes
the tides and currents, called your friends, and Pack Thursday, Leave Friday half an hour or so.
You probably know this one, but how often do you do it? Go Solo
sorted through the piles of gear, it would have
If you plan your trip on Wednesday, after work on Thursday all Flakey friends? Bob wants to go, but he has tuba practice
been nearly noon, and then there’s food shop- you need to do is get your gear together. (This needn’t take a
ping, boat loading, and an hour and a half to the or a meeting or something on Saturday. Heck, Bob can meet
whole evening, as you’ll find out in a moment.) Now you can you out on the island later. Weekends are great for solo trips—
put-in. It was just too much trouble, and so you leave directly from work at 5:01 pm on Friday—no waiting you can get out there with minimal hassles, can often cover
ended up mowing the lawn and wishing you’d while someone tries to find his sprayskirt. more distance, and the solitude is great after a week at the salt
gotten it together. Paddle Friday Evening mines. Your paddling and safety skills and judgment will need
But there’s hope! You can fit kayak camping Make use of the long evening hours of daylight—it’s one to be up to par, but solo weekends are a wonderful way to ex-
into regular two-day weekends—no need to of the best times to be on the water anyway. You might end up perience the watery world, and to prep for longer solo trips.
wait for your too few vacation days. setting up camp in the dark, but being on the water at sunset The rewards of solo paddling can often outweigh the risks,
And it’s not just about getting out paddling can make up for it. Then you’ll wake up on Saturday with all the especially if you’re in familiar waters.
more—it’s about sleeping out under the stars getting-there hassles behind you. And if your night navigation Enjoy the Wild Edge
more. Remember why you started kayaking to skills are solid, it will open up your options even more. In my quick, local camping trips, I’ve come to appreciate
begin with? I bet it wasn’t only the paddling; it Take Less Stuff the edges between civilization and what we call “the wilds.” I
was love of the outdoors, camping out, slowing I’m an expedition paddler at heart, so I have lots of stuff— camped once across a narrow channel from a county fair, with
down, watching sunsets, listening to the birds three tents, a cooking shelter, tarps, two stoves, two camp the lights from the Ferris wheel like a fireworks display, and
chairs, tons of camera gear, you name it. Forget most of that where I met a local city councilor walking his dog. Too often
in the morning, and poking around in tidepools
and pack like a backpacker. The less stuff you have, the less we think of “nature” as being in the remote unpeopled wilder-
with the kids. time you’ll spend carrying loads between the beach and the ness, and everything else is “civilization." In reality, the two are
As time goes by, we’re camping out less. Sta- tent, fitting gear in your boat, and setting up and breaking merging more every day, and you don’t have to go to remote
tistically, the average North American spends camp. Which means you’ll spend more time communing with national parks and designated wilderness areas to have a wil-
less time each year camping out. Author Rich- nature, going for a hike, taking photos, and doing the things derness experience. Camping close to home will show you that
ard Louv has noted the effects of less time in you came to that place to do. How likely are you to need a fold- the human and the wild often exist in the same place.
nature for children in his landmark book Last ing hatchet in a weekend, or even a tent if the forecast is good? Weekends as Shakedown
Child in The Woods: Saving Our Children from Keep it simple, and enjoy being out there more. Note: this rule Camping a lot over the weekends will make your big trips
Nature Deficit Disorder. I’m a firm advocate for does not apply to good single malt. easier, more instinctive, and more fun. You’ll have on-the-wa-
spending as many nights as possible camping Have a System ter and in-camp routines down, you’ll be used to paddling a
out. And it can be close to home—in fact, very We paddlers have already spent far too much of our lives loaded boat, you’ll be unfazed by a day of rain, and you’ll have
few of my nights out are a two-week paddling trying to figure out how to pack everything into our boats. If established a group of paddling and camping buddies.
vacation to faraway locales. Camping out is still you don’t have a system down already, come up with one. Have a Good Boss
The simplest way is to pack your boat once, using the smallest Heck, you work hard all year long. Who’ll mind if you’re not
camping out, even if you’re only 45 minutes
dry bags possible, and then write numbers on the bags, start- there at 3 pm on Friday? Don’t you have a meeting somewhere
out of the office? 
from your bed. ing with #1 at the bow and moving toward the stern. Now,
So here are some tricks to spending more once you pack everything into dry bags, you know they’ll fit
nights out under the stars.

Gabriola Island, BC
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Kayak Navigation
The Basics
by Adam Bolonsky
A t its most basic, kayak navigation

boils down to a handful of skills
most anyone can learn in a day or
two. To begin, you’ll need a chart, preferably of
a place you like to paddle or one you’re think-
download and print them yourself or have a
designated reseller print them for you. They’re
also available on cd-rom or in regional portfoli-
os from any number of commercial publishing
concerns. With practice, their startling wealth
sandy, boulder-strewn, etc.); their wrecks; their
lighthouses (two) and the wide range of navi-
gational buoys which surround them (about a
dozen). The excerpt also shows the major ship-
ping channel, The South Channel, where the
ing of exploring, a deck-mounted or hand-held of information and high levels of detail can be length of football fields slip by at speeds of eight
compass, a sharp pair of eyes and a course-plot- read in just a few moments. The key is to learn knots or more.
ting tool. a few symbols. To depict the wealth of meaning and detail,
charts use a wide variety of numerals, letters,
Charts colors and codes. Outer Brewster Island, for ex-
ample, is 60 feet tall in its southeast corner and
Published by the National Oceanic and
rises to 103 feet at an overlook. It sports a sand-
Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) in the
spit that snakes out of the island’s southwest
US and the Canadian Hydrographic Service
corner for nearly a mile. Great Brewster also
in Canada, charts come in a variety of sizes that
has a wharf on its southwestern shore and is
range from gorgeous 46” x 44” to 11” x 23” gov-
surrounded by a deep thicket of large boulders.
ernment printings that contain a deep level of
Where would you choose to land if you wanted
detail (they make beautiful wall hangings) to
to explore Great or Outer Brewster? Now have
11”x17” commercial reproductions, printed in
a look at The Graves to the northeast and Little
folio form at somewhat lower levels of resolu-
Brewster to the southeast. You’ll note that each
tion, yet with no less detail, available from out-
has a lighthouse.
fits like MapTech.
A chart graphically describes everything you
Important to remember about charts is that
can expect to encounter when you paddle with-
they are drawn in a variety of scales and offer
Rocks, Shallows, Lighthouses in its territory: channel markers, navigational
different levels of detail. They always include a
buoys, lighthouses, wharves, wrecks, shore-
distance and latitude scale and, no matter their Take a look at the detail section of a chart, line contours, beach slopes, etc.—landmarks
size, always include the names of islands, capes, showing the outer wilds of Boston Harbor, a and features which will help you keep track of
peninsulas, etc., as well as the color and number place as good as any to look for adventure a few where you are. The chart will likewise help you
of navigational buoys. Just keep in mind that miles from home. assess good places to duck out of bad weather or
no matter what scale the chart, one minute of Among the excerpt’s myriad details, you’ll hunker down in a tent to wait out a storm.
latitude (a chart’s horizontal increment) equals note that the excerpt indicates all of outer Take a few moments to review the excerpt
one nautical mile—or about the distance an av- Boston Harbor’s significant submerged rocks, more carefully. You’ll note a code printed
erage paddler can cover in 15 minutes or so. each of its islands, all of its sandbars and shoals. beneath the lavender exclamation point that
You can purchase government-issue charts Digging a little deeper, you’ll also find that marks Graves Light (the outer harbor’s north-
from any full-service marine supplier in num- it describes the topography of the Brewster east corner):
bered series for around $18 each. Also you can Islands: the nature of their shoreline (rocky,

FL (2) 12s 98 ft 24M HORN dence between east, west, north and south and
Interpreting the code is easy. The lighthouse their corresponding numbers, however, has
flashes twice every twelve seconds, lies 98 frustrated more than one novice kayak navi-
feet above sea level, is visible on a clear night gator. So if you’re the type likely to forget the
for 24 miles not including its looming, and is numeric values of north and south and all of
equipped with a fog horn. the directions in between, you might want to
By studying your charts before you head choose a handheld compass first.
out, you’ll be that much more familiar with
what you can expect to see and encounter on
Handheld
the water. Handhelds are simplicity, versatility and
complexity rolled into a small and inexpensive,
Compasses durable package.
For starters, the needle on a handheld com-
Compass use is the second navigation skill. to use but because they often come on boats pass, painted red or a bright phosphorescent
Compasses come in two forms: deck-mounted pre-mounted. Deck-mounted compasses tell color, always points north (or at least what
and handheld. Knowing which to use is a mat- you, with just a glance, in what direction your passes for north in your local waters) no mat-
ter of finding out which type you find more use- boat is pointed. The trick is knowing how to inter which way your kayak is pointed. Simply by
ful and comprehendible. terpret their numbers. glancing at the needle you know where north is.
When a deck-mounted compass reads 90, Then, viewing the compass as if it were the face
Deck-Mounted for example, you’re headed east; 180 means of a clock, north is twelve o’clock; east is three
Deck-mounted compasses are typically south; 270 is west; anything close to 360 or 0, o’clock; south is six o’clock; west is nine o’clock.
mounted far enough forward on the foredeck north. Many paddlers value this quickness of getting
that you won’t get a stiff neck looking down at The distinct advantage of a deck-mounted oriented towards north above all else.
them, yet not so far forward you can’t see their compass is that you can read it in chop and There’s another advantage to handheld
numbers. They’re the most popular kayak com- breaking swell—rough weather won’t knock it compasses: their bezels. Once you know where
pass choice, not only because they’re the easiest out of your hand. Remembering the correspon- north is, you twist the bezel to take bearings

Course-Plotting Tools
Of the three types of course-plotting tools
most kayakers use, the parallel rule and rolling
rule have long been classics. The simplest and
most practical, however, is relatively new.
Called the Nav-Aid and designed by Chuck
Sutherland of Pennsylvania, the Nav-Aid is
simply a square plastic card with a compass
rose printed on it. A hole poked into the middle
secures a thick length of monofilament fishing
line with burned knots at either end. It also has
a lanyard.
off surrounding landmarks. You then use the

bearing numbers in concert with your chart to
figure out where you are—a fast technique for
getting unlost known as triangulation.
Although the intricacies of how to use hand-
held compasses are more complicated than can
be explained in this introductory article, the
long and short of handhelds is that their bezels
help you take bearings from landmarks without
having to spin your boat. Once you’re onshore
they’re also invaluable as an orienteering tool
when you start wandering in search of drinking
water, roads and trails, etc.
Their primary disadvantage is that they’re The Nav-Aid works on the same principle
impractical on long courses and in rough as the highly accurate rolling and parallel rules:
weather—their faces are small and the num- you place the Nav-Aid on your chart so the
bers are difficult to read unless viewed up close. center of the tool lies on top of where you are,
Also you can’t hold onto a handheld while or think you are. You then use the Nav-Aid to
you’re paddling since you need both hands to derive the compass route you need to follow to
paddle. get to where you want to go.
Deriving that route with the Nav-Aid is
Plotting Courses dirt simple: nothing more than extending the
monofilament line and connecting where you
The next essential skill is plotting courses by
are to where you want to go. You read where
way of a chart and a simple course-plotting tool,
the line crosses the outer ring of the compass
#
then using chart and compass to follow those

-
rose. That’s the compass course you need to
courses.
follow. The only trick is to scribe the Nav-Aid
9
Of all the navigation skills, course-plotting
with a Sharpie pen or grease pencil to account
#- and following are perhaps the most rewarding
for your area’s version of magnet north. Other-
and satisfying skills to learn and use, mostly
-9
wise using the Nav-Aid is quite straightforward
because they lend paddlers such an immediate
#9
and has the added advantage that you can store
guide certification and gratifying sense of competence and con-
courses it on your deck at all times, in place and always
#-9
trol. Learning to plot and follow courses also
ready for use.
+ gives you the ability to navigate spontaneously,
advanced to go where your eye draws you, to wander out
skills training to and investigate destinations you feel drawn Putting it into practice
towards, all without fear of getting lost or un- Reading charts, using a compass, plotting a
able to find your way home. route. These are three basic skills you’ll need to
taught by dan lewis and bonny glambeck To learn the first of those two crucial skills, learn to navigate your kayak. Of the three, chart
in clayoquot sound, tofino bc. you’ll need a chart, your compass and a course- reading is the easiest to learn at home. All you
www. rainforestkayak. com 877-422-9453
plotting tool. need is a chart and the willingness to study it
with a sharp eye focused on the chart’s rich
44 WaveLength Magazine july–september 2008 guide certification courses

advanced skills training
palette of symbols, icons, colors, numbers and
codes.
Compass reading is a skill you really can’t
practice at home. Instead, you’ll want to head
down to an area you already know pretty well
and paddle around pointing your compass or
your bow at landmarks so that you learn where
those landmarks lie according to the compass.
The beach you always put in at, for exam-
ple. Where is it really located? In other words,
where does it lie in relation to the island you
always paddle to? Does the island lie southeast
of the put-in? 140-degrees of the put-in? Does
reading your chart then tell you that that hill
on the far end of the island is 85 feet high, has a
lighthouse on it visible for 18 miles, and that not
only the island but lighthouse lie due north of
a red nun buoy (and a shipping channel!) that
throws a flash pattern, at night, of two flashes
every three seconds?
The long and short of kayak navigation is
this: learning to navigate will greatly expand the
range and variety of places you paddle. Armed
with the confidence to leave behind the same-
old destinations, your navigation skills will
deepen that mysterious and ineffable desire to
paddle a small and fast, remarkably seaworthy
and skinny little boat. 

fishing angles by Dan Armitage
Finding Fish
Ask Around
One of the best ways to learn of good fishing spots in any locale is to
ask around. The local bait or tackle shop is able to stay in business based
on anglers finding success and requiring bait and tackle to do so, and it
is in their representatives’ best interest to serve as source of local fishing
information. Ditto the local wildlife or fisheries agency, which are funded
by license sales and exist in great part to provide the public with informa-
tion that will help them find good fishing. While fellow anglers may not
Author with bonefish: Finding fish via kayak and paddle is half the fun of the sport, often leading you have the same incentive, most fishermen are friendly to novices or visitors
to places—both near and far—you might not otherwise visit. The author used a kayak to sneak in their area who come right out and ask for advice on where to go fishing
onto the bonefish flats on a recent Bahamas paddle trip and was not only rewarded with this catch, and what to use once they are there.
but by seeing a sea turtle eye to eye and watching an osprey angle the prime fishing grounds as
well. Think About It
Once you do get into fish, either following advice or finding a produc-
I
tive place on your own, the key is identifying what makes that particular
am frequently asked by non-anglers why I fish. The short answer is
spot a haven for the bass, perch, bluegill or salmon you are catching. Then,
that angling leads me to places I might otherwise miss. As with recre-
seek out other waters with the same attributes and you’ll be on your way
ational paddling, one of the joys of angling from a kayak is the ability
to accumulating your own fishing “hot spots.” And when you do find suc-
to fish waters that are not accessible by conventional fishing craft. By trad-
cess with a particular bait, lure or tactic, consider what you did differently
ing between paddle and rod and reel, you get to sample the bounty found
to make it work. Did you allow the lure to rest on the surface for longer
both above and below the water’s surface. The same stealth that allows
intervals before the bass blasted your popper? Did that salmon suck the
you to get within casting distance of fish, also puts you close to wildlife
streamer on the dead drift or when it appeared to be fighting the current?
above the surface—some of my most amazing wildlife encounters have
Did you hook the minnow that fooled the trout through the lips or under
come while I was quietly fishing from a kayak.
the dorsal fin? You don’t necessarily need to know why the subtle changes
Some may question the need for an additional incentive to explore
worked, just recognize them so they can be duplicated.
such waters. I simply know that the places I’ve paddled and experiences
Once you start to determine places and the fishing patterns that work
I’ve enjoyed while following my passion are unique to that pursuit, and
under a particular set of conditions at each, you can start considering
nothing less than the potential for a hook-up would have persuaded me to
yourself an angler, with knowledge of your own worth sharing with fellow
go there and allowed me to enjoy the sights and situations that result.
fishermen.
Whether or not you do so, of course, is up to you! 
If you are an angler, and have a few choice places where you go fishing
with good prospects for catching something, chances are good that you
can get there via kayak. In fact, your odds at success will probably increase
with the stealth factor and the added water access fishing from a kayak
should allow.
If you are just starting out, testing the waters for favorable fishing areas,
here are a few pointers to bear in mind.
Explore the Edge

Fish, like most creatures, prefer edges. Just as deer and pheasants and
rabbits and raptors like to work the edges of woods, fields, fencerows or
suburban lawns, venturing out into the open only when they feel secure,
fish frequent the same kind of cover and transition zones. Fish will be
found at the edge of weed beds, near a drop-off or point where deep water
meets shallow, or hanging around rocks or coral. Fish may also be found
at “edges” where water of different temperatures, oxygen levels, current
or clarity meet, which are known as “breaks.” If you know of a particular
place where you can pretty much count on finding fish, chances are that
an edge of one kind or another is nearby.

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-ARINEELECTRONICSROPESANCHORS
-ARINEELECTRONICSROPESANCHORS
HARDWARElSHINGTACKLELIFEJACKETS
HARDWARElSHINGTACKLELIFEJACKETS
CHARTSBOOKSANDMORE
CHARTSBOOKSANDMORE
&RIENDLY+NOWLEDGEABLE#REW
&RIENDLY+NOWLEDGEABLE#REW
%SPLANADE.ANAIMO"##ANADA

%SPLANADE.ANAIMO"##ANADA
gear locker by Alex Matthews
Lendal Kinetic S Paddle
Justine Curgenven, one of the world’s most prominent expedition paddlers and the creator of the “This is the Sea” videos.
T he Lendal name may be new to some,

but this long established brand has deep
roots in the UK and a devoted following
worldwide. Although founded and operated in
Scotland for many years, Lendal’s recent acqui-
Allen key in the button expands a collar within
the joint resulting in absolutely no “wobble”
between components. This allows 4-piece pad-
dles to fit together so securely that the resulting
paddle truly feels just like a 1-piece. Absence of
in line with the length of the shaft, but slightly
offset behind it. The advantage of this approach
is that when the blade is planted and drawn
through the water, the paddler’s hand leads the
blade through the stroke, resulting in a really
sition by Johnson Outdoors (owners of Necky, any play in the joint also eliminates the wear positive plant and no flutter at all—even very
Extrasport, Old Town, Ocean Kayak, and Car- and increasing deterioration that haunts other sloppy technique won’t cause the blade to mis-
lyle Paddles) will result in Lendal paddles being ferrules. behave.
more widely available in North America. With Lendal’s system, blades can be quickly
Lendals are almost synonymous with bent swapped out, or shafts changed to suit condi-
shafts—those twisty shafted paddles that are tions or tastes. Likewise, in the event of damage
designed to allow a more naturally ergonomic to a component (say a broken blade), only that
grip, resulting in less strain and fatigue to joints part need be replaced. Lendals are fantastic for
and tendons. But Lendal also offers a straight travel because the paddles break down to their
shaft option. In fact, perhaps the most unique four components (two blades and two shaft
aspect of the Lendal story is their “component” halves) to stow easily in a duffel or suitcase.
approach to paddles, based on their Paddlok Shafts are available bent (modified crank)
system. Paddlok uses a very clever ferrule union or straight, in fiberglass or carbon. Blades are
incorporating an Allen screw within the spring- available in seven different shapes and five dif-
loaded ferrule button—turning the supplied ferent materials.
Lendal also have three different center fer- I found the grip-width on the 210 cm crank
rules to choose from. Our test paddle was a to be overly narrow. The 215 cm grip-width was
4-piece, consisting of carbon modified crank better, while a 225 cm version required a grip-
shaft, with VariLok ferrule, and carbon Kinetic width worthy of King Kong. As in all matters of
S blades. fit, this is a very personal and subjective thing,
The Kinetics are very nicely constructed so be sure to try before you buy.
epoxy/carbon blades that favor a more vertical The VariLok ferrule adds about $50 to the
stroke. One aspect of the modified crank shaft price of a Lendal shaft and offers a high degree
is that it doesn’t feel neutral when out of the of fine-tuning ability, allowing infinite feather
water, having a tendency to rotate in the hand adjustment from 90° left-hand control, through
at some angles. This is because the blade is not to 90° right-hand control. Overall paddle

length can also be extended up to 5 cm (or any
fraction thereof) above the base length.
The Verilok option seems very robust and
offers a lot of flexibility in feather and length
adjustment, but I personally prefer a simpler
setup. Having to tighten the ferrule with the
tool before the paddle can be pressed into
service seems overly complicated, especially
when a standard 3-button-hole configuration
(but with the ability to tighten the joint) would
allow use of the paddle without needing to pull
out the tool.
Although the Kinetic S is a smaller version
of the original Kinetic, it’s still a pretty large
blade and best suits stronger paddlers if used
for general touring. It’s a great choice for fitness
paddling or playing in surf or currents where a
larger blade excels. While a touch heavier than
some of the other top end ultra-light paddles,
the Lendal impressed me with its durability
and unique assembly system. It’s ideal for air
travel and a great choice for paddlers who pre-
fer bigger blades with an aggressive bite.
Lendal USA
P.O. Box 548
Old Town, ME, USA 04468
Tel: 800-343-1555
Fax: 207-827-2779
www.lendal.com
email: usa@lendal.com
Lendal Kinetic S Touring Paddle

Standard Lengths:
210 to 230 cm in 5 cm increments
Average Weight:
830 g for Carbon Blade and Crank Shaft
A set of blades and a shaft must be purchased
and assembled to create a complete paddle.
This is only a small sample of the possible
combinations:
Carbon/Epoxy Kinetic S Blades:
$285 Cdn at MEC
SF (fiberglass-reinforced polypropyl-
ene) Blades: $115 Cdn at MEC
VariLok Carbon Modified Crank
Shaft: $195 Cdn at MEC
SwitchLok Fiberglass Straight Shaft:
$85 Cdn at MEC 

skillset by Alex Matthews
The Low Brace Lean Turn

photos by Rochelle Relyea
T he low brace lean turn is a skill that will come in handy in all
types of water conditions, but it is especially useful in current
and surf. Once perfected, this turn will amaze you with its
bombproof stability.
The low brace lean turn combines the motions of a reverse sweep
with the support of a low brace to make a smooth and effective turn.
It should be noted that while this stroke does generate a tight turning
radius, it will seriously slow your forward speed, often stopping you al-
together.
The low brace lean turn starts with forward speed and is initiated
with a forward sweep stroke on the opposite side to the lean turn itself.
This means that if you want to turn to the right, you’ll initiate the move
with a forward sweep stroke on the left. With the turn initiated, you’ll
then rotate your upper body as if to take a reverse sweep on your right,
and tilt your boat into this same direction. Unlike the reverse sweep
that is used when the kayak is sitting flat on the water, the primary focus
of your paddle is now to provide bracing support, while its secondary
purpose is to provide turning power. This means that your blade will
be almost flat to the water surface, although it will need a slight amount
of “climbing angle” so that it stays on the surface without diving, and
can be used to help turn your boat. Climbing angle refers to the lead-
ing edge of your paddle blade being higher than the trailing edge. It’s
the same as spreading jam on toast: picture the knife blade’s angle as
it glides over the surface of the bread, its leading edge higher than the
trailing edge. Failure to lift the leading edge of the blade will cause the
paddle to quickly dive beneath the surface and may even flip you up-
side down, so be warned and angle that blade!
As your boat begins to turn, hang on your low brace and slowly
sweep your bracing “reverse sweep” forward while keeping your boat
on edge. As your boat reaches the end of its turn, your blade should
have swept forward to a point directly out to the side from your hip.
To really get your kayak turning, edge the boat—as you plant your
blade for the turn, tilt your kayak into the turn and roll it up on edge. If
turning to the right, think in terms of rolling onto your right butt cheek
and lifting your left knee while keeping your head over the kayak and
lightly hanging on your low brace for support. Tilting the kayak will
greatly increase the turning power of the stroke, and typically, the more
you edge your kayak, the more it will turn. It’s important to realize,
however, that as your kayak slows down, the amount of support you’ll
get from your brace drops considerably. This means that you’ll need to
flatten out the tilt on your kayak towards the end of the turn, before
you’ve scrubbed all your forward speed, and support is lost. 

paddle meals by Hilary Masson
Yogurt: Keeping the Culture Alive

You’ll Need
½ cup plain store bought yogurt
1 litre (quart) milk
a thermos
Make sure that the yogurt has “active live cultures” written on the label. This will be
your starter of friendly bacteria, which will turn your milk into yogurt.
The good thing about store bought yogurt is that it will not spoil traveling in the
kayak if it is fully sealed. In Baja we can store it for a full six days with no problem.
Once open, the store bought yogurt can go bad without refrigeration.
The Process
1. If you are making this yogurt for Day One of a paddling trip, you can use fresh,
unopened milk. To make yogurt later in the journey, bring powered whole milk
and follow the directions for mixing up the milk powder. Bring the milk slowly
Fresh yogurt drizzled over a cucumber, tomato, parsley salad with
to just under a boil with low to moderate heat. The goal is to NOT bring it to
lemon and olive oil dressing.
a complete boil. The best test is when you put your pinky finger in and can
withstand the heat for 10 seconds, the milk is at the right temperature to add
W hile planning a paddling expedition in a new place, try break-

ing out of the normal camp cooking paradigm and get inspira-
tion from other cuisines around the world. Having a diversity
of meals that are beautiful, healthy and practical to prepare will expand
your appreciation of cooking in the outdoors. Ultimately the diversity
the yogurt.
2. Blend well.
3. Preheat the thermos—boil water and pour it into the thermos while you are
mixing the yogurt with the hot milk, then pour out the hot water, saving it to
and beauty of your paddle meal options should be consistent with the wash dishes or make tea.
diversity of your paddling destinations.
Lorraine Sahagian, a fellow “foodie” and sea kayaker, and I traveled 4. Put the yogurt/milk mixture into the thermos, close the thermos and store in
together for ten days in a double kayak in the Sea of Cortez from Loreto your kayak hatch for about 8 – 10 hours. The longer you leave it closed up, the
down to La Paz. On this remote stretch of coastline, the beaches blurred more tart it will become.
together, but remembering each meal on the trip helped bring back imag-
5. Eat and enjoy this yogurt, and when there is 1/2 a cup left over you can use that
es of the beautiful landscapes of each campsite. On some of our six-hour
as your own starter to keep the bacteria alive.
paddles we had lots of opportunity to discuss favorite family recipes and
to dwell on the interconnection of cultural identity and sharing meals.
Lorraine had some wonderful tips for healthy and balanced Middle
Eastern cuisine, where tangy homemade yogurt is used as a condiment This style of unsweetened yogurt is what you will find anywhere in the
for any meal. Yogurt is the connecting thread of her cultural identity Middle East. Traditionally it is not sweetened, but is treated like a condi-
through her association with traditional Armenian cooking. Yogurt in ment to drizzle over all types of food, three meals a day. Of course you
Lorraine's home was the responsibility of her father, a survivor of the Ar- can sweeten it with honey, and mixed with fruit and granola it can be a
menian genocide in 1915. He would make each batch of yogurt from the fabulous dessert.
remainder in the bottom of the jar. This starter batch of bacterial culture So when you are traveling this summer in your kayak, you can contin-
was continually being made into new batches of yogurt thus “keeping the uously make yogurt, without refrigeration. It is only that first starter batch
culture alive.” of active bacteria culture that has to be store bought. After that point you
Making fresh yogurt while kayaking is simple to do and will be thor- could be making yogurt every second night of your kayak journey. Thus,
oughly enjoyed with your meals. never running out of bacteria culture, you can keep the culture alive! 

book reviews by Diana Mumford
Paddling the Waters of Vashon Island Paddling and Hiking the
by Biffle French Georgian Bay Coast
Lao Mei Publications, 2008 by Kas Stone
ISBN 978-0-9800636-0-8 Boston Mills Press, 2008
$19.95, 216 pp, b/w photos and maps ISBN 978-1-55046-477-1
www.VashonKayakBook.com $29.95, 256 pp, color photos and maps, index
www.fireflybooks.com
The title of this book makes it sound like a guide book,
but actually, it is the running commentary of a novice If you’re looking for new paddling and hiking
kayaker as he experiments with paddling, is unimpressed, tries again, is hooked, places to explore, here is a just released guide to
and then explores his home waters, and so becomes an experienced kayaker. His the coast of Georgian Bay in Ontario. Kas Stone, experienced hiker and pad-
exploratory paddles are documented here with personal observations about the dler, outlines 38 excursions (from a few hours to multi-day expeditions) in and
history and present day culture of the Vashon Island area as well as what actu- around the body of water dubbed “Ontario’s sixth Great Lake.” Colour photos
ally happened on each particular day. You won’t find point form lists of put-in and clear maps of each area complement each description, with access routes and
points, relevant chart numbers, hazards and highlights, but you will find a highly points, historical notes and interesting features to be aware of. Up-to-date refer-
entertaining, on-going story which might help you find your way if you decide to ences to sources of information will lead you to anything you need that is not
paddle off Vashon. If not, you’ll still find a highly entertaining story that may mir- covered in this guide.
ror your own love affair with paddling, and resonate with your own experiences.
Definitely worth reading even if you have no intention of paddling the waters of
Vashon Island.
Paddle Your Own Kayak with relevant vocabulary and the anatomy of a kayak and a paddle. Other essen-
An Illustrated Guide tial gear is described and thoroughly explained with photographic illustrations. A
series of yoga poses that are helpful for maintaining balance and flexibility (and
to the Art of Kayaking
do-able on a sandy beach) are outlined and clearly demonstrated through pho-
by Gary and Joanie McGuffin tographs. Practical suggestions for carrying, lifting, launching and car-topping a
Boston Mills Press, 2008 kayak follow, and then a considerable portion of the book is devoted to paddling
ISBN 978-1-55046-464-1 skills, strokes and rescues for flat water and surf paddling. Chapters on navigation,
$34.95, 176 pp, hardcover weather, planning and building your own kayak complete this comprehensive
color photos and illustrations, index guide. As always, there is no substitute for the guidance of a qualified instructor
www.fireflybooks.com and on-water experience, but for an introduction to a new sport, or for at-home
study before or after lessons, this book is a valuable resource. With personal an-
With more than 600 color photographs (some enhanced to clarify a point) and il-
ecdotes and observations, the authors’ love of the wilderness and paddling shine
lustrations, Paddle Your Own Kayak is a beautiful as well as practical guide to kaya-
through the practical information presented, and make Paddle Your Own Kayak
king for novices and intermediate paddlers who would like to advance their skills
much more that a simple how-to guide book.
or reinforce past learning. Covering every conceivable topic, the book begins
Adventure Tourism
(250) 391-0331 www.bckayaks.com email: nwca@shaw.ca
Natural West Coast Adventure Gear Victoria, British Columbia
from the use of these products.
Natural West Coast Adventure Gear is not liable for any damages incurred
to do so could lead to injury or fatality.
rescue techniques must be obtained before using these products. Failure
Note: Some of the products are rescue equipment. Proper instruction in
West Coast Adventure Gear.
gear that are made by any company other than Natural
normal wear and tear and does not apply to repairs to the
or refund. The warranty does not cover damage due to
manufacture defect, return the product for repair, exchange
There is a two-year warranty on all our products. If there is a
Programs oma
ear dipl
or 2-y
i ficate
5-month cert
87535 natural West Coast BC
&ORPEACEOFAMTERIND
ONTHEW
Dehj^?ibWdZ9ebb[][_d9WcfX[bbH_l[h"89$ www.bckayaks.com
J[b0(+&/()#/-/.;cW_b0gk[ij_edi6d_Y$XY$YWM[X0mmm$d_Y$XY$YW%jekh_ic

Coastal Beauty Kids Gone Paddlin’
Wildflowers and Flowering Shrubs of Coastal The Young Paddler’s Guide
British Columbia and Vancouver Island to Having More Fun Outdoors
by Neil L. Jennings by Tom Watson
Rocky Mountain Books, 2008 Creative Publishing International, 2008
ISBN 978-1-897522-02-8 ISBN 978-1-58923-371-3
$26.95, 320 pp, color photos, glossary, index $12.95 US / $15.95 Cdn, 96 pp, color photos, index
www.rmbooks.com www.creativepub.com
This guide to coastal flowering plants is presented in a This guide to paddling is an introduction to the ba-
handy format well suited to taking along on day pad- sics of canoeing and kayaking for kids aged 8 – 12.
dles or expeditions (5 x 8 in., sturdy paperback cover and binding). The full page It provides beginner’s information in a colorful and
description of each of the wildflowers and flowering shrubs is accompanied by a easy to read format, perfect for the target audience. Boats and essential gear are
color photo, and the entries are organized by flower color which makes identifica- described, and basic paddle strokes explained. Safety is emphasized throughout.
tion easy. Intended for the amateur naturalist, this guide will answer the question A map and list of national parks in the US and Canada help to answer the ques-
“what is this flower called?” for a great many of the flowering plants you will en- tion: Where Can I Go? If you’re looking to interest your child or grandchild in
counter along our coast, which will add to your enjoyment of your explorations. paddling adventures, Kids Gone Paddlin’ is a great supplement to the time you
spend with them on the water.
Following the Curve of Time Blanchet and their move out to Vancouver Island, BC in 1922 where she lived
The Legendary M. Wylie Blanchet the rest of her life. When Geoffrey died, leaving her with five young children to
provide for, "Capi," as she was called, rented their Saanich home for several sum-
by Cathy Converse mers and headed upcoast with the whole family (and sometimes a dog as well)
TouchWood Editions, 2008 aboard their 25 foot cabin cruiser, the Caprice. These expeditions were later im-
ISBN 978-1-894898-68-3 mortalized in The Curve of Time, a book that has a place in the library of many
$24.95, 224 pp, b/w photos, bibliography, index coastal cruisers. In Following the Curve of Time, Cathy Converse paints a picture of
www.touchwoodeditions.com a singularly independent and feisty woman who used her ingenuity and resource-
fulness to raise her children on her own. This is a fascinating read for all those who
If you haven’t had the pleasure of reading The Curve have explored coastal BC with a copy of The Curve of Time in hand or have just
of Time, this biography of its author will surely entice enjoyed Capi Blanchet’s stories of her summer expeditions with her children.

you to do so. Through research and assistance from
the Liffiton and Blanchet families, Cathy Converse
has traced Muriel Wylie Liffiton’s early life in Quebec, her marriage to Geoffrey

Wavelength bookstore
paddling guides paddling guides
Stikine River Kayaking the

a Guide to Paddling The Great River Broken Group Islands
By Jennifer Voss By JF Marleau
224 pp, 5.5” x 8.5”, b/w, $19.95 cdn/us 128 pages, 6” x 9”, b/w, $19.95 cdn/us
The only available guide to the Stikine River, this book This paddling guidebook is a complete and up to date field
provides information for anyone planning a guided or self- reference on the Broken Group Islands. It is suitable for all
guided paddling trip on the Stikine River by canoe, kayak or kayakers, from the novice paddler to the experienced kayak
raft. It includes general trip planning tips and specific infor- guide. It provides in-depth information and will enhance
mation on the route. your preparedness as well as your safety, knowledge and en-
joyment of kayaking in the Broken Group Islands.
The Broken Islands
By Douglas Brunt
Sea Kayak
Desolation Sound and the Sunshine Coast
112 pp, 5.5” x 8.5”, b/w, $19.95 cdn/us
By Heather Harbord
This new edition of The Broken Islands guide has been 176 pages, 5” x 7”, b/w, $19.95 cdn/us
updated with current access and contact information, and
expanded to include maps, charts, graphs, natural and cul- This paddling guide to Desolation Sound and the Strait of
tural history chapters, and photographs of plants and ani- Georgia provides historical travel information on a part of
mals. This is a useful resource that will help to ensure a safe the Inside Passage between Vancouver Island and the BC
and enjoyable trip to The Broken Islands. mainland.
Paddling Through History Sea Kayak

Sea Kayak Vancouver and Victoria Around Vancouver Island
By Aileen Stalker and Andrew Nolan By Doug Alderson
192 pages, 5” x 7”, b/w, $19.95 cdn/us 160 pages, 5” x 7”, b/w, $16.95 cdn/us
Experience inner-city paddling with a guide that tells the Covers a full circumnavigation of Vancouver Island. Inter-
story of BC’s biggest city from water level. Explore history ested in a grand expedition, a week of summer touring, or a
with the tales behind the people, bridges, lighthouses, mu- weekend excursion? Each chapter in this guide book covers a
seums and watercraft that come to life in this guide, which section of the island providing ample information on: points
also includes a section on Victoria. of access, interesting sites, safe routes to travel, hazards to
avoid, and comfortable campsites.
EasyKayaker
A Guide to Laid-back Vancouver Island Paddling
By Gary Backlund & Paul Grey

Sea Kayak
the Gulf Islands
192 pp, 6” x 9”, $24.95 cdn/us
By Mary Ann Snowden
Discover easy-to-paddle trips in thorough easy-to-read chap- 160 pages, 5” x 7”, b/w, $16.95 cdn/us
ters and all the basic information you’ll need to get started—
with sections on buying a suitable kayak, camping, kayaking Each of the 23 trips outlined are headed with important
with kids and how to choose an appropriate tour guide. Cov- information on tides, currents, safety considerations, charts
ers eastern Vancouver Island and other paddling locations; and launching. Included in each route description is prac-
Gulf Islands, Broken Group and Nootka Sound. tical information on the different land jurisdictions, parks,
campsites, suitable landings and paddling conditions.
Kayaking Vancouver Island
Trips from Port Hardy to Victoria Sea Kayak
By Gary Backlund & Paul Grey Nootka & Kyuquot Sounds
295 pp, 6” x 9”, $24.95 cdn/us By Heather Harbord
Trips ranging from a lazy day excursion in Victoria’s historic 160 pages, 5” x 7”, b/w, $16.95 cdn/us
Gorge waterway to an exciting multi-day voyage around Nootka and Kyuquot Sounds are the next step for sea kayak-
Meares Island in Clayoquot Sound, the authors cover ev- ers who have enjoyed the Gulf Islands, the Sunshine Coast,
erything from launch sites to lunch sites, which currents Desolation Sound and the Broken Islands. The book breaks
to avoid and which tides to ride. The book is rich in local the area down into 49 trips. Once out there, wind and weath-
mythology, folklore and history. Writing with safety and er will dictate where you go depending on your skill level.
(mostly) easy paddling in mind, Backlund and Grey rate
paddling skills required for each area.

Wavelength bookstore
paddling guides paddling maps
The Wild Coast 1 BC Coastal Recreation Kayaking
A Kayaking Guide for North and West Vancouver Island and Small Boat Atlas
By John Kimantas Volume 1, South B.C. Coast and East Vancouver Island
300 pp, 6” x 9”, color, $24.95 cdn/us
By John Kimantas
This is the ultimate guide to exploring the stunning west
48 pages, 11” x 14”, full color
coast of Vancouver Island. Each of the eleven chapters
$39.95 cdn/us
describes a distinct area of the island, with attractions,
amenities, ecology, Native and European history, place Volume 1 in this atlas series contains waterproof
names, landing sites, campsites, and trivia. and manageably sized, detailed maps of BC's
south coast including Vancouver Island from
Victoria to Port McNeill. Numerous land-based
The Wild Coast 2 features are identified, including campsites and
A Kayaking Guide for North and Central BC Coast
launch locations. Ideal for kayakers who want a
By John Kimantas
detailed overview in an easy-to-use format.
344 pp, 6” x 9”, color, $29.95 cdn/us
Journey through the Inside and Outside Passages of BC
from north Vancouver Island to the Alaska border. Each
chapter explores a part of BC’s remote coastline and dis-
BC Coastal Recreation Kayaking
cusses the region’s Native and European history, geogra-
and Small Boat Atlas
phy, weather, ecology, attractions and services. Volume 2, West coast Vancouver Island
By John Kimantas
The Wild Coast 3 48 pages, 11” x 14”, color
A Kayaking Guide for BC’s South Coast and East vancouver island
$39.95 cdn/us
By John Kimantas
Volume 2 provides maps of the west and north
344 pp, 6” x 9”, color, $29.95 cdn/us
coasts of Vancouver Island (from Sooke to Port
Provides explorers with everything they need to know Hardy). Numerous land-based features are iden-
about the south coast and east Vancouver Island, from tified, among them campsites and launch loca-
Victoria to Port McNeill. This point-by-point guide, de- tions. Ideal for kayakers who want a detailed
signed for kayakers, describes the details, hazards, geog- overview in an easy-to-use format.
raphy, ecology, history, hikes and attractions.
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coastal news
Hope Floats—Kayak for a Cure III West Coast Expeditions’ Legacy Continues
Each summer, kayakers of all levels of expe- West Coast Expeditions, one of Canada’s earliest marine ecology and
rience launch their boats at Vancouver’s Jer- sea kayaking tour specialists, has new owners—David Pinel, Chris Nagle,
icho Beach and cross English Bay under the and Bev Hansen. Dave, long-time WCE guide and manager of operations,
“Kayak for a Cure” (KFAC) banner. KAFC is has been at the centre of WCE’s success for over a decade. Together with
an annual event that raises money for cancer his wife and veteran guide, Caroline Fisher, they have teamed up with
research through pledges gathered by par- Chris and Bev to keep building WCE’s programs in the remote Kyuquot
ticipants. KAFC Founder, Mark Starkey says, area on the northwest coast of Vancouver Island. Chris and wife Michelle
"We want to make Kayak for a Cure an experi- (also a guide) bring over a decade of guiding, instructing, and business ex-
ence that we give to participants, not the other way around. Participants perience to the WCE team, having worked with a number of companies
who raise $1000 or more are invited to a VIP reception the night before; on the coast, including Deep Cove Canoe and Kayak, Spirit of the West
we hold a beach party after the event, and have a BBQ for the participants Adventures, Northern Lights Expeditions and Pacific Northwest Expedi-
followed by an awards ceremony. We don’t want people to raise money, tions. Bev is from the Ka:'yu:'k't'h / Che:k:tles7et'h' (Kyuquot/Checle-
show up to paddle and then go home. It’s about celebrating people who set) First Nations, and notes that “this is a dream come true to become an
influenced our lives and were affected by cancer, meeting new people, and owner of WCE in my home territory.” Living in Kyuquot, she knows the
having a good time doing it. Kayak for a Cure II raised $1125, Kayak for area intimately, has strong interpretive skills (including cedar weaving),
a Cure II raised $20,000 and our goal for Kayak for a Cure III is $50,000. on-water guiding abilities, and years of administrative experience.
It’s ambitious, but we really believe something special is brewing here and WCE’s base camp on Spring Island—the Kyuquot Field Station—
Vancouver is the perfect place for an organization like ours." Hope Floats has been established for over 30 years and is perfect for family kayaking
is on August 17th in Vancouver, BC on August 10th in Victoria BC, and adventures, instructional programs, and other uses such as themed re-
August 2nd in Columbus, Ohio. Learn more and sign up at www.kayak- treats, reunions and field study programs. The nearby paddling options
foracure.ca. Event is sponsored by Ecomarine and FCV Technologies. are diverse for all interests and abilities. WCE programs will continue to
provide a strong educational and instructional focus, emphasizing con-
New Cetacean Sightings Website nections with the local ecology and remote community of Kyuquot. This
The BC Cetacean Sightings Network has launched a new website. Visit
maintains the legacy of previous owners Jerry Lang (1972-1990), Rupert
www.wildwhales.org to learn more about conservation and research or
Wong (1988-2004), and Kim Letson and late husband Mike Simpson
to report a sighting of a whale or sea turtle.
(2005-2007). For more information about trip options, visit the new
WCE website: www.westcoastexpeditions.com
Westport Marina Receives "Clean Marine BC" Recognition

Westport Marina in Victoria has recently become the first eco-rated
marina in British Columbia under Georgia Strait Alliance’s new Clean
Marine BC Program. This voluntary environmental recognition pro-
gram for marinas, yacht clubs, harbor authorities and boatyards encour-
ages best practices and continual environmental improvement. To be-
come certified, a facility must commit to the Clean Marine BC Policy and
undergo a thorough independent audit. Once through the audit process,
a certificate is awarded and the recipient is entitled to fly the Clean Ma-
rine BC flag. For more information on this innovative program, visit www.
GeorgiaStrait.org and follow the link from the Green Boating page.
Saving Puget Sound: A Call to Action

What’s at stake in saving Puget Sound and what’s it going to take?
"Puget Sound is like a peach, it looks great on the outside but if you cut it,
it’s rotten on the inside..." So says artist/educator Tony Angell in the new
seven-minute video produced for People For Puget Sound. The video ex-
plores urgent issues and what people can do to bring the Sound back to
health. Visit www.pugetsound.org to view the video.
New Paddle Trail in the Gulf of St. Lawrence

For more information about the new paddle trail in the Iles de la Mad-
elaine Archipelago in Quebec, visit http://www.tourismeilesdelamad-
eleine.com/watertrail. A series of 7 maps covering the most interesting
areas to paddle in the archipelago will be available for free online. 

events
July 3 – 13 August 1 August 24 – 30
Great Hudson River Paddle Paddle Kitsap Ontario Canada Folding Kayak Flotilla 2008
Hudson River Valley National Heritage Area Port Gamble to Poulsbo, WA Chaffeys Lock, Rideau Canal
www.hudsongreenway.state.ny.us/ghrp/ www.paddlekitsap.com/ www.folbotforum.com
July 5 August 8 – 10 August 30 – 31
MEC Halifax Paddlefest Canal Splash 5th Annual Tyee Kayak Fishing Derby
Graham's Grove on Lake Banook, Dartmouth, NS Buffalo to Albany to Whitehall Moutcha Bay, Vancouver Island, BC
www.mec.ca www.canalsplash.com www.canadiankayakanglers.com
July 6 August 17
MEC Vancouver Paddlefest September 5 – 7
Kayak for a Cure III
Ambleside Beach, Vancouver, BC Vancouver, BC 1st annual North East Canoe and Kayak
www.mec.ca/paddlefest mark@kayakforacure.ca Symposium
www.kayakforacure.ca Spruce Run Recreation Area, Clinton, NJ
July 17 – 20 www.gopaddle.org
24th Annual Great Moniker Lakes Sea Kayak August 21 – 24
Symposium Ladies of the Lake Sea Kayak Symposium September 19 – 21
Grand Marais, MI Drummond Island, MI 25th Anniversary West Coast Sea Kayak
www.glsks.com www.downwindsports.com Symposium
Port Townsend, WA
July 18 – 20 August 22 – 24 www.gopaddle.org
Small Craft Builders Rendezvous Greenland Style Paddling Symposium
Peterborough, ON Lake Superior, Wawa, ON September 21
www.bearmountainboats.com/rendezvous.htm www.naturallysuperior.com GoZero Kayak Race & Rally
Hudson River, Beacon, NY
July 26 August 23 – 24 www.johnnymilleradventures.com
Mattawa River Canoe Race Fourth Annual Port of Toledo Wooden Boat
The mouth of the Mattawa and Ottawa River, ON Show September 22 – 22
www.nbmca.on.ca Toledo, OR The Great River Amazon Raft Race 2008
www.portoftoledo.org Amazon Rafting Club, Iquitos, Peru
www.iquitostimes.com/raft-race-2008.htm 

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Kayaking to Save the Albatross
by Hayley Shephard
A t 6.30 am I awoke and peered out the porthole of my cabin. The However, behind the scenes of soaring albatross and spectacular
storm-lashed cliffs and glacier-clad peaks of South Georgia stood petrels is the insidiously slow, almost invisible loss of lives, thinning out
only a mile from our ship’s starboard side. Grey headed albatross breeding colonies, emptying skies and threatening the very existence of
glided effortlessly in the wind blown skies, leading us to their home, the nineteen out of twenty species of albatross, due to illegal fishing and poor
most extraordinary place on the planet. techniques used in the long line fishing industry.
This somewhat forbidden, almost untouchable island stands alone in International Seabird Conservation organizations are joining togeth-
the middle of the Southern Ocean, its nearest neighbor 1400 kilometres er to raise funds to implement research, which will then create opportuni-
away. Treacherous seas constantly batter the coastal rocks and ridges, ties to alter fishing techniques to reduce seabird by-catch—simple mea-
shaping beautiful surf beaten bays. Fearless animals take shelter from the sures to prevent so many birds dying needlessly.
savage winds, utilizing the abundance from the nutrient-rich ocean. Pon- In January 2009, I am attempting the First Solo Sea Kayak Circum-
derous elephant seals, gregarious fur seals and posh king penguins con- navigation of South Georgia Island in aid of the albatross. I am hoping
gregate on the few accessible beaches. Millions and millions of nesting this epic journey will capture a fascinated audience, promote public
terns, petrels and prions flutter in and out of cracks and crevices, feeding awareness, and ultimately encourage the protection of one of the most
their vulnerable young during a sporadic short-lived summer. amazing seabirds. The 500 kilometre journey will take approximately
This exceptionally isolated, storm-torn island, shaped and sculpted by five weeks to complete due to continuous foul weather that can keep one
Mother Nature’s dramatic forces has captured my attention, and is hold- beach bound for weeks.
ing me under a potent spell from which I will never be free. As hostile, as In 2005 the first ever sea kayak circumnavigation was accomplished
dangerous, as forbidden as it feels, South Georgia’s charm, its divine and by an Adventure Philosophy team consisting of three New Zealand men;
ruggedly stunning beauty, has a power that I will be forever drawn to, and a solo journey has never been attempted.
I shall not rest until I have seen it all. Personally I admire and respect those who not only strive to fulfill
This Sub-Antarctic island is 170 kilometres long and 40 kilometres their own dreams, but do so in ways that benefit others and that serve
wide and is situated along the fringes of Drake Passage, which separates an important cause. It is these accomplishments that can create positive
Antarctica from South America in the Scotia Sea. South Georgia has change for humanity and our planet earth.
been described by numerous explorers throughout history. Here is Cap- Hayley Shephard works as Expedition Leader in both the Arctic and Antarctic and has been guiding
tain Cook’s fierce portrayal: “A land doomed to perpetual frigidness whose sav- on the BC coast for over ten years. She was the first woman to solo sea kayak around both Vancou-
age aspects I have not words to describe.” ver Island and the Queen Charlotte Islands and presently has her sights set on South Georgia.
South Georgia is an extremely important breeding island for a num-
ber of species, including numerous seabirds such as penguins, petrels and
four species of albatross. For the past eight years I have arrived by Russian An expedition such as this one has its fair share of obstacles and challenges to face and
ship, leading adventurous groups from all around the world to Antarc- navigate. South Georgia is governed by Britain and over the years they have established
tica and South Georgia, to admire this island and the animals that dwell an environmental and safety protocol that adventurers must follow if they chose to do
here. an expedition on or around the island.
For me, the most majestic and mesmerizing of the species is the wan- For Hayley to gain permission to attempt her solo sea kayak circumnavigation, she is
dering albatross. This is the biggest of the albatross species and is classi- required by British Law to have in place a support vessel which will act as a back-up
fied as the largest flying bird that exists on earth with a mighty 3.6 metre search and rescue vessel in case an emergency situation arises.
wing span. This rather lanky seabird needs at least 20 knots of wind to Hayley has lined up the sailing vessel Northanger owned and skippered by husband and
get itself airborne, therefore it nests on steep, exposed coasts and islands wife team, Keri Pashuk and Greg Landreth. Although they are supporting the expedition
amongst the tussock grass, using a small runway and a sheer drop as a and cause by giving Hayley a substantial discount, the chartering of a vessel and crew
launching pad. has added a hefty sum to her expedition budget.
I am extremely privileged and honored to have had the opportunity Please visit www.kayakingtosavealbatross.com for more information on the expedition
to observe the grandiose albatross that glides effortlessly on the updrafts and the Albatross situation, as well you will find the means of making a donation if
of ocean winds, spending most of its life at sea, circumnavigating the en- you would like to support Hayley and her courageous attempt at helping to save the
tire globe frequently. These birds touch land only at an annual nesting site Albatross.
where they reunite with their lifetime mates and begin the most elegant Hayley will be most grateful for your interest and generosity. 
courtship behavior you could imagine. Their wings are stretched grace-
fully, the tail feathers are charmingly erect, their stylish heads are poised
in the most seductive stance, and together they begin to dance.

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Wavelength Kayaking Magazine: Summer 2008

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Paddling The Pacific Coast and Beyond

Bute Inlet Grizzlies • Greenland

Experience the next level in kayaking

8 Solitude on Santa Rosa

12 Paddling the Cascade

14 Slipping Past Solander 32

28 Alaskan Whistle Stop

32 Paddling Picks on the

4 WaveLength Magazine july–september 2008

24 Kayaking the Broughton Archipelago shows.

36 Greenland–Paddling Through a Sea of Ice Adam Bolonsky is a kayak fishing guide

42 Kayak Navigation: The Basics

© Mark Hobson photo

48 Lendal Kinetic S Paddle 24

july–september 2008 WaveLength Magazine 5

July–September 2008 Volume 18, Number 3

6 WaveLength Magazine july–september 2008

yoga for paddlers

drysuits | wetsuits | neoprene cement | mec.ca

T he bugle call bellowed from above the

8 WaveLength Magazine july–september 2008

The First Islander

The Maritime Culture of Wima

july–september 2008 WaveLength Magazine 9

10 WaveLength Magazine july–september 2008

A t the southern end of the Cascade

12 WaveLength Magazine july–september 2008

july–september 2008 WaveLength Magazine 13

A friend once asked Bonny and me where we would go and what

14 WaveLength Magazine july–september 2008

july–september 2008 WaveLength Magazine 15

16 WaveLength Magazine july–september 2008

REST EXPLORE ENJOY CONNECT EXPERIENCE

Enjoy professionally guided kayaking vacations, Sinc

18 WaveLength Magazine july–september 2008

july–september 2008 WaveLength Magazine 19

20 WaveLength Magazine july–september 2008

A Work of Art Made for Life

july–september 2008 WaveLength Magazine 21

O ur small group of paddlers stands on a gravel bar where the Al-

22 WaveLength Magazine july–september 2008

july–september 2008 WaveLength Magazine 23

S prawled out on Bill Proctor’s dock amidst

24 WaveLength Magazine july–september 2008

Sunny deck of Coast Mountain Expeditions, Read Island

Private 2 Bedroom Cottages Sunny, Sandy Beach

26 WaveLength Magazine july–september 2008

“We know our stuff”

Feathercraft Rainbow Ad 2008

getting you out there since 1981

A Proud “on water” Necky dealer

july–september 2008 WaveLength Magazine 27

28 WaveLength Magazine july–september 2008

july–september 2008 WaveLength Magazine 29

30 WaveLength Magazine july–september 2008

july–september 2008 WaveLength Magazine 31

W ith close to 30,000 kilometres of shoreline, the best way to

Bay of Islands, Newfoundland and Labrador

32 WaveLength Magazine july–september 2008

“We know our stuff”

Deer Island, New Brunswick

are generally composed of shale, conglomerate and other sedimentary

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