The existing garden consisted of flower beds bordering the paths, and some dry impoverished clay soil

with depressing tufts of straggling grass in what could euphemistically be called a lawn, which you can just see in my photo on the left.

My idea was to remove the grassed area completely, lay a pattern of paving stones in the form of a 'T' shape, in order to have easy access to all parts of the flower garden, and then fill the rest of the area with flowers, which I would select according to their height, seasonal variation and growing pattern, colour, ability to flourish in half-shade, somewhat dry because of a tree in the street outside.

The End Result for my Cottage Garden

Lots of shorter plants, various colour schemes, according to season
So in summer it was pink, white, mauve and flashes of orange. In autumn it was more orange, evergreens and fuschia colours. In winter, lots of white berries from pernettya, blue-black berrries on themahonia and red berries on the cotoneaster androses. : In January the white-green hellebore flowered, followed in early spring by yellow mahonia, yellow and white daffodils and narcissi, then pinkbergenia and bluebells and forget-me-nots, bright primroses, then flame coloured wallflowers, almost dazzling in their brightness, and grey-white osteospermum.

This Design is so Simple You could Do It Yourself

You just need a little bit of thought to work out what you need

These are the Basic Tools and Materials You Would Need for your Garden

Tools for digging, moving stuff around and good soil for planting out

VINCA MINOR (also known as PERIWINKLE) -

small shiny leaves, small violet star-shaped flowers in spring and then intermittently during summer and autumn

Good ground cover. Vinca is evergreen and low-lying and gradually spreads, so needs to be kept under control

5.DICENTRA SPECTABILIS, also known as BLEEDING HEART -

In Spring this root puts out stems with soft interesting-shaped leaves with a small dark pink or sometimes pink-and-white flower which does indeed resemble a heart

It flowers for about two months and looks lovely grown near bergenia and Solomon's seal. Propagate by dividing the roots after it has finished flowering. I have never found it very easy to increase and usually end up buying more plants.

7. MAHONIA -

Mahonia is an evergreen shrub

Mahonia is a shrub with very shiny dark green leaves, a bit like holly and just as spiky, with purple-black berries from Autumn through winter, and a mass of bright yellow tiny frothy flowers in Spring They multiply by sending out sucker-type shoots, so keep them under control. The type I grow (Mahonia

aquifolium) is fairly short, no more than 3 ft. high, but my neighbours have a different type which is more like a tree, about 10 ft. high.

MYASOTIS also known as FORGET-ME-NOT -

they range in colour from bright blue to pale blue, some tinged with pink, with soft small leaves, and flower in late Spring for about four months

Forget-me-nots are about 6 - 8 inches high and quite bushy. They are annuals, not perennials, but always seed themselves abundantly, so they never go away if the position is right for them. They grow in sun and shade. After a few years, they tend to spread and become invasive, but it's easy to control them by digging up unwanted plants. The trouble is, it's tempting to keep them anyway, because a sea of blue spring flowers round a garden is breathtakingly beautiful.

Step 1: Mark it Out

Make your new garden the best it can be. Give it a fun shape with flowing curves or use it to echo the lines of your house. Get it just right by laying out a hose to outline your bed. Once you have the perfect shape, mark the edges with a line of sand or flour.

Step 2: Get Rid of the Grass

If you have grass growing in your newgarden spot, dig it up with a spade or sod cutter. Or, if you have time to wait, mow that area as low as you can, then cover it with a several-sheet-thick layer of newspaper and several inches of soil or compost. Wait a couple of months for the grass to die.

Step 3: Dig It Up!

Now comes the digging. Dig up or till your new garden, removing any rocks, roots, or other debris. If you have poor soil, now's also a great time to incorporate organic matter, such as compost. Just dig it in while you work the ground.

Step 4: Edge Your New Bed

Keep the lawn from crawling into your gardenwith a good edge. A trench about 8 inches deep and a couple of inches wide will stop even the worst invaders from crossing. Alternatively, sink an edging material around the perimeter of your garden.

Step 5: Site Your Plants

Though it takes a little extra time, placing all your plants before you put them in the ground can make a world of difference. This allows you to get the spacing just right and make your plants really will look good next to each other.

Step 6: Get Planting

When you know all of your plants are in exactly the right spots, plant them in the ground. It's helpful to loosen or tease the plants' roots before you put them in the ground, especially if they were rootbound.

Step 7: Spread Mulch

Other than amending the soil, the best thing you can do to keep your new garden healthy and low-maintenance is to spread mulch. A 2-inch-deep layer of shredded wood or other material will do wonders for stopping weeds and helping your soil conserve moisture during times of drought.

Step 8: Water It In
Once your bed is planted and mulched, give your plants a good soaking. Hint: If your mulch is dry, it may absorb some water before your plants can. Soak dry mulch well to make sure your plants get enough moisture.

this list of these Nature's Wonder Workers' Uses and Benefits and you'll see just how insightful you truly are. Possibly a little Strange, but None-The-Less, Insightful.

Worm Composting or Vermicomposting o Vermiculture o Compost Bin o Worm Tea o Organic Fertilizer o Lessen Garbage o Vermicompost Bin Fishing Worms Attracting Wild Birds Feeding o Pet Birds o Turtles o Iguanas o Aquarium Fish o Pond Fish o Salamanders o Snakes o Frogs o Raising Trouts Raising Worms at Home o Worm Farms o Worm Bins o Worm Kits o Can o Worm Composters Nourishing Garden Soil o Vermicompost or Worm Compost o Gardens (Bigger Tastier Veggies) o Organic Gardening o Lawns (Greener Healthier Grass) o Flower Beds (More Colorful Blooms & Stronger Stems) Fertilize House Plant soil o Hanging Plants o Potted Plants o Garden Plants Soil Enhancing (Black Gold soil) Eliminating Chemical Fertilizers Food Additives and Red Worm Recipes ...Really

Garden at School
Planning a school garden can be a lot of fun. It is a great place to learn-by-doing. Teachers, parents and students should help to plan the garden. The following are some things to think about as you plan your school garden.

Planning
Choose a Site. Of course you want a site with sun, good soil and drainage and probably most important of all, close to water. If your site

is on school grounds there are probably outside faucets available. Have your school janitor check to make sure they are working. If your school does not have any green space, you may choose a site on a nearby vacant lot . You may have to check with your local city official to get permission to garden on the lot. Finding water can be a problem for a vacant lot garden. Many towns will allow you to access a nearby fire hydrant for water. Check with your local fire department.
Involve everybody as you make decisions about the garden. Choose what flowers and vegetables to plant and where they will be planted. Remember, this is "your" garden. Dont get overwhelmed with things to do in the garden. Take breaks between activities. Make sure you know what you are to do in the garden and the time required for each garden visit. Visit your garden at least one-to-two times a week to care for your plants. Grow veggies and flowers you like. Look through garden catalogs and cut out favorite vegetables and flowers. Start with crops that mature quickly such as: lettuce, radishes, sunflowers, spinach, bush beans and zucchini. If your school doesnt have space outdoors, green onions, radishes, lettuce and herbs can be grown in a sunny window in plastic pots or

a heavy duty ziploc-quart or gallon freezer bag.

Everybody should have their own space in the garden. A 4 x 4 foot area is a nice size to begin with or at least have a space for your classroom. Dont let adults do everything for you in the garden. Direct the kids without doing. You can do most garden tasks with gentle guidance from adults. Do it yourself!

Eat the food you grow. Have a salad party or help prepare a recipe using "your" vegetables. Create a journal of your gardening experience. A journal could contain a map of the garden; what seeds were planted; what the weather was; pictures of what flowers were grown; who visited the garden; bees, bugs, birds & butterflies that were seen in the garden; and photos of the vegetables that were harvested. Vandalism can be a problem. It can be very discouraging to grow nice ripe, red, juicy tomatoes and then have them disappear overnight. Here are some tips to help reduce vandalism:

Reserve garden space in the school garden for neighbors who live around the school. Hold an "Open House" and invite neighbors to see what you are growing. Visit your garden as often as possible. Recruit your parents and other students to work on Saturdays in the garden with you. Plant extra vegetables and flowers for the unwelcome visitors. Ask nearby neighbors and local police to keep an eye on the garden. Plan a gathering space in the garden for everybody to gather for gardening activities such as work days or a harvest festival. Repair damage or graffiti as soon as possible.

Tools You Will Need

Rake Hoe Spade Spading fork Hand trowel Watering can Gloves Rule

In some schools, gardens are being integrated into the educational curriculum to teach children not only about plants, nature, and the outdoors, but other subjects as well. Gardens can teach children about history, economics, poetry, and math, but are still primarily used for science studies. If you'd like to visit a school garden, try Lord Roberts Elementary School . What if you do not have a good school yard for a garden? A garden program does not necessarily have to start out using any outdoor land. Garden programs can be started right in the classroom on windowsill, cabinet, or table near a window or artificial light source.

Starting a School Garden

Starting School Gardens School gardens can provide an environment in which students can learn to work with teachers, parents and neighborhood resident volunteers while growing plants and learning the relationship between people, plants and wildlife. The lessons that are taught at the garden site are limited only by one's creativity. School Gardens are a special kind of learning center. Like libraries, they need responsible and knowledgeable people to do all the jobs necessary to maintain them as functional places in which children will learn. They should be seen as permanent additions and must be utilized year-round. Below is a framework which you should consider before starting your garden. Step 1--Form a Garden Committee As a teacher, you do not have the time that is needed to coordinate the garden program. Someone else has to be responsible for the garden work, finding funds to support the garden, scheduling educational activities, finding and training volunteers, researching and disseminating information. Forming a garden committee from a pool of dedicated people with those skills, will enhance the success of your program. Look for volunteers among the school staff, parents, and local residents. Or if you know of a gardener, ask that person to volunteer, or to recommend another gardener. Step 2--Define the purpose and objectives of your garden Every school garden must fulfill some need or objective. This is why each garden is unique. All teachers utilize the garden as a learning aid. For some teachers it may reinforce natural science classroom studies. For others it may reinforce social studies. Some teachers may utilize the garden across all curriculums. Whatever your needs are, by addressing these issues, you will have a better understanding of the work involved in this stage. Step 3--Layout your students gardening activities By determining your objectives at this early stage, you will have the opportunity to look at your lesson plans to see when and what types of garden lessons are needed. If you need help finding educational exercises and activities, there are many resources available for teachers (see below). You will need to determine which groups of students will be doing what and when, and determine how bed space will be allocated. The experiences and input from your garden committee will be helpful at this stage. This is your opportunity to schedule specific activities at specific times or assign certain tasks to your volunteers. Step 4--Define a year-round garden plan You have identified what your garden will be like while school is in session. But now, you need to think about your garden during summer break. The main question is, "Who is going to keep this garden maintained until school starts?" "How do you want the garden to look on the first day of school?" A year-round garden use plan will account for any school break.

Step 5--Choose a permanent garden site and design your garden Your garden site should be in an area that receives plenty of sunlight, has good drainage, and in close proximity to water, electricity and accessible to students, volunteers, and teachers. The site should have enough room for your garden, tool storage, and students. Maintaining a large garden will use up all of your time and energy so select a relatively small area. Step 6--Build your Garden according to plan This is the big moment when teachers, volunteers, students and their parents pool their resources and build this permanent addition to the school.

School Garden Considerations

Site selection
amount of sunlight needed soil characteristics lot debris drainage protection from damaging winds accessibility-people, water, wildlife, garden materials Garden design safety yearly maintenance structures for storage, composting, group gatherings type of materials needed cost effectiveness pathways and garden plot size convenience for teachers and students amount of space needed and its use irrigation-type water system space for expansion fencing, water ponds and open space Annuals, perennial, shrubs and trees Organizing people role of students in garden projects parents, teachers, administrators, and volunteers workdays and job distribution scheduling communication, information and education organizational structure, responsibilities garden leader and advisory committees Site preparation clean lot-remove trash, rocks, etc. prepare soil mark pathways and garden plots construct beds lay water system fill pathways build compost bin open for planting Composting organic matter

 maintenance utilizing compost organisms and wildlife Garden Care watering, weeding, soil improvements summer break covercrops protecting plants mulching clean-up planting Tools, Equipment and Structures trellis, arbors, fencing garden tools, tool shed and tillers buckets, sprayers, water hose Resources financial support for construction, maintenance seeds and transplants educational materials tools and equipment organic materials, fertilizer, insect control Liability physical hazards for students and visitors lighting fencing Schoolyard Ecosystems and Habitat flora and fauna fountains, pools, birdhouses and feeders Theft and Vandalism accessibility ,light, fencing Produce utilization of produce source for fund raising health and nutrition Use of Fertilizers and Pesticides safe products environmental effects organic methodology