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Nurturing Guidance
The following nurturing guidance techniques are a valuable tool for establishing a positive parrot/human bond. These concepts are ever-changing as we learn more about the various parrot species and their

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bond. These concepts are ever-changing as we learn more about the various parrot species and their emotional and psychological needs. While the concepts are always changing, the emphasis will always remain on building trust. 1. Lower your energy level whenever you approach your bird, and never do anything that threatens or scares your bird. Parrots are prey animals and are quick to become suspicious if they feel threatened. Sudden and quick movements will often alarm a bird. It's one reason that many birds become anxious or agitated around small children. 2. Never pull your hand quickly away from your bird or have a lot of hand motion over its head. This action will give the bird mixed signals as to what you want him to do. Your bird must always trust your hands. 3. It's a good idea to establish boundaries from the beginning by letting the bird know you are in charge. This can be done by keeping the bird at chest level and practicing the "step up" command with your bird every day. Never pick up your bird by its body, legs, or from behind the bird. You should place your finger, hand, or arm under its belly while you are facing him and instruct the bird to "step up." Another way to establish control with your bird is to place your thumb over your bird's foot while he is on your hand. Just resting your thumb over his foot is sufficient. If, at any time, the bird should try to establish itself as the flock leader, do not allow yourself to become intimidated. Birds are very smart and will pick up on this quickly. Once a bird knows it has the upper hand, it becomes more difficult for you to regain control. 4. Parrots should not be allowed to climb up to your shoulder. If you want your bird on your shoulder, YOU place him there and YOU remove him. This is yet another means to establish control with your bird. 5. A healthy bird is a happy bird. Proper nutrition is essential to maintaining good health. An all seed diet will eventually lead to illness. Therefore, be sure to feed a well-balanced diet consisting of a variety of healthy foods. The importance of a good diet cannot be stressed enough. 6. A fairly regular routine of playtime, feeding time, and rest time gives the bird a sense of security. Neglected birds may become depressed and possibly ill while overindulged birds may develop bad habits. It's important to strike a balance, and consistency works best. A bird that is caged for days or weeks at a time will begin to resent attempts at social interaction and become apprehensive at being removed from its secure confines. On the other hand, a bird
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become apprehensive at being removed from its secure confines. On the other hand, a bird that is overindulged and allowed to have free run of the house will resent being caged and may display its displeasure through screaming or feather plucking. The bird needs to know how to amuse itself when caged as well as enjoy its social time. 7. Socialize your bird by allowing family and friends to handle your bird. Always make sure anyone handling your bird has CLEAN hands. Always supervise your bird's playtime with young children. 8. Your bird must be taught to stay where you put him (e.g. on a tree stand or play gym). If the bird leaves its play area, calmly and consistently put him back where he was, and he will eventually learn to stay there. Always make the play areas enticing and exciting. This will naturally keep your bird where you want him to stay. Change the toys in your bird's cage often. This will not only stimulate your bird, but it will prevent repetition and boredom. 9. Baby birds often go through a "teething" stage sometimes referred to as the "terrible two's." Birds are very inquisitive and because they use their beaks to explore different textures and substances, they will sometimes clamp down a little too hard on human body parts. This should not be mistaken as aggressive behavior. A bird will usually outgrow this over time, and it's important to know how to handle this phase of development. Don't overreact if the bird gets a little rough but rather try to distract it. Offer the bird a hand held toy or popsicle stick to chew on and try to keep your finger out of its mouth. You can also try using the "up" command to ladder the bird from hand to hand. As a last resort, quickly drop your arm, without dropping the bird, or rock your hand from side to side in an earthquake move. The bird will become distracted by having to maintain its balance and will eventually get the message. 10. Don't "beak wrestle" or "tweak" your bird's beak. Your bird could get mixed signals when you want to pick him up. Remember, your bird must always trust your hands. 11. Know your bird's mood. Most birds will give a signal that they are about to bite. If you suspect your bird may bite, leave it alone for the time being. It may be that the bird is busy eating, engrossed in playing with a toy, or just tired and is resting. It's important to know that every bird has the potential to bite and, at some point, probably will. If you are bitten, look at the event objectively and try to determine what provoked it. You will be better equipped to avoid being bitten the next time. 12. Respect your bird at all times. If your bird doesn't want to be petted or skritched, do not insist,
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as it may lead to you getting bit. Do not feed or skritch your bird through the bars of its cage. This is the bird's home, and the bird should feel safe there. 13. Know that birds are individuals just like us humans, and, therefore, have different preferences. Take the time to learn what your bird likes and dislikes (including toys, food, etc.). Keep in mind that your bird's likes and dislikes may change over time. Change WITH him, NOT against him. 14. Vocalization is a bird's natural form of communication and most birds do vocalize at certain times of the day. Normal vocalization usually occurs in the early morning and late afternoon. A bird may also scream for other reasons such as being hungry or not let out of its cage on time. The overindulged or spoiled parrot can get into the bad habit of screaming for attention. This behavior should not be encouraged. It's best not to remove a screaming bird from its cage but rather wait until he's quiet. Birds thrive on drama, and screaming back at the bird will only prove to elevate the decibel level. Try to ignore the screaming. If this doesn't work, try moving the bird and cage to another room away from household activity until he quiets down. Birds do make noise, some more than others. Those who are sensitive to sound should make sure that they can handle the level of noise a particular species can produce prior to purchasing a bird. 15. Always reward your bird with praise and a treat whenever he has done something positive. Do not reward the negative. For example, if your parrot begins screaming, don't yell back or go to him. If you do respond to your bird under these circumstances, you have unintentionally created a negative reinforcement. Now the bird thinks every time it screams, it will get a reaction from you, whether it is a good or bad reaction. 16. One of the most appealing things about some parrots is their ability to talk. Talking ability depends upon the particular species and the individual bird's desire to learn. Therefore, don't set high expectations for your parrot. It will be a letdown for you, and it is unfair to the bird. 17. Once you can define and understand a negative behavior and what established it as a pattern, only then can you make positive attempts to change it. 18. While there are many variables to the complex behavior of parrots, understanding the above basics can make a positive change in the way you approach your avian companion. View Larger Map Awesome African Grey that knows so many phrases!

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Birds By Joe Proprietor: Joseph Reilly 1309 Bound Brook Road Middlesex, NJ 08846 Phone: 732-764-BIRD (2473)

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