Cotton Cotton: is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective capsule, around the seeds of

cotton plants of the genus Gossypium. The fiber is almost pure cellulose. Under natural conditions, the cotton bolls will tend to increase the dispersion of the seeds. The plant is a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, Africa, and India. The greatest diversity of wild cotton species is found in Mexico, followed by Australia and Africa. otton was independently domesticated in the !ld and "ew #orlds. The $nglish name derives from the Arabic which began to be used circa %&'' A( The )panish word, *algod+n*, is li,ewise derived from the Arabic. The fiber is most often spun into yarn or thread and used to ma,e a soft, breathable textile. The use of cotton for fabric is ,nown to date to prehistoric times- fragments of cotton fabric dated from .''' / have been excavated in Mexico and the Indus 0alley ivili1ation 2modern day 3a,istan and some parts of India4. Although cultivated since anti5uity, it was the invention of the cotton gin that so lowered the cost of production that led to its widespread use, and it is the most widely used natural fiber cloth in clothing today. urrent estimates for world production are about 6. million tones or %%' million bales annually, accounting for 6..7 of the world8s arable land. hina is the world8s largest producer of cotton, but most of this is used domestically. The United )tates has been the largest exporter for many years. In the United )tates, cotton is usually measured in bales, which measure approximately '.&9 cubic meters 2%: cubic feet4 and weigh 66;.9 ,ilograms 2.'' pounds4.

Types of Cotton:
Main article< Types of cotton There are four commercially grown species of cotton, all domesticated in anti5uity<

Gossypium hirsutum = upland cotton, native to entral America, Mexico, the aribbean and southern >lorida, 2?'7 of world production4 Gossypium barbadense = ,nown as extra@long staple cotton, native to tropical )outh America 297 of world production4 Gossypium arboreum = tree cotton, native to India and 3a,istan 2less than 674 Gossypium herbaceum = Aevant cotton, native to southern Africa and the Arabian 3eninsula 2less than 674

The two "ew #orld cotton species account for the vast maBority of modern cotton production, but the two !ld #orld species were widely used before the %?''s. #hile cotton fibers occur naturally in colors of white, brown, pin, and green, fears of contaminating the genetics of white cotton have led many cotton@growing locations to ban the growing of colored cotton varieties, which remain a specialty product.

History of Cotton:
otton plants as imagined and drawn by Cohn Mandeville in the %&th century otton was used in the !ld #orld at least :,''' years ago 2.th millennium / 4. $vidence of cotton use has been found at the site of Mehrgarh, where early cotton threads have been preserved in copper beads. otton cultivation became
1

more widespread during the Indus 0alley ivili1ation, which covered parts of modern eastern 3a,istan and northwestern India. The Indus cotton industry was well developed and some methods used in cotton spinning and fabrication continued to be used until the industriali1ation of India /etween 6''' and %''' / cotton became widespread across much of India.D >or example, it has been found at the site of Eallus in Farnata,a dating from around %''' / . otton fabrics discovered in a cave near TehuacGn, Mexico have been dated to around .9'' / , although it is difficult to ,now for certain due to fiber decay. !ther sources date the domestication of cotton in Mexico to approximately .''' to H''' / .

Organic production of Cotton:

!rganic cotton is generally understood as cotton, from plants not genetically modified, that is certified to be grown without the use of any synthetic agricultural chemicals, such as fertili1ers or pesticides. Its production also promotes and enhances biodiversity and biological cycles. United )tates cotton plantations are re5uired to enforce the "ational !rganic 3rogram 2"!34. This institution determines the allowed practices for pest control, growing, fertili1ing, and handling of organic crops. As of 6'':, 6;.,.%: bales of organic cotton were produced in 6& countries, and worldwide production was growing at a rate of more than .'7 per year.

Pests and weeds of Cotton:

The cotton industry relies heavily on chemicals, such as herbicides, fertili1ers and insecticides, although a very small number of farmers are moving toward an organic model of production, and organic cotton products are now available for purchase at limited locations. These are popular for baby clothes and diapers. Under most definitions, organic products do not use genetic engineering. All natural cotton products are ,nown to be both sustainable and hypoallergenic. Eistorically, in "orth America, one of the most economically destructive pests in cotton production has been the boll weevil. (ue to the U) (epartment of Agriculture8s highly successful /oll #eevil $radication 3rogram 2/#$34, this pest has been eliminated from cotton in most of the United )tates. This program, along with the introduction of genetically engineered /t cotton 2which contains a bacterial gene that codes for a plant@produced protein that is toxic to a number of pests such as cotton bollworm and pin, bollworm4, has allowed a reduction in the use of synthetic insecticides. !ther significant global pests of cotton include the pin, bollworm, 3ectinophora gossypiella- the chili thrips, )cirtothrips dorsalis- the cotton seed bug, !xycarenus hyalinipennis- the tarnish plant bug, Aygus lineolaris- and the fall armyworm, )podoptera frugiperda, Ianthomonas citri subsp. malvacearum.

Harvesting of Cotton:
Most cotton in the United )tates, $urope, and Australia is harvested mechanically, either by a cotton pic,er, a machine that removes the cotton from the boll without damaging the cotton plant, or by a cotton stripper, which strips the entire boll off the plant. otton strippers are used in regions where it is too windy to grow pic,er varieties of cotton, and usually after application of a chemical defoliant or the natural defoliation that occurs after a free1e. otton is a perennial crop in the tropics and without defoliation or free1ing, the plant will continue to grow. otton continues to be pic,ed by hand in developing countries.
2

British standard yarn measures:

% thread J .. in or %&' cm % s,ein or rap J 9' threads 2%6' yd or %%' m4 % han, J : s,eins 29&' yd or ::' m4 % spindle J %9 han,s 2%.,%6' yd or %H.9H ,m4

Fiber properties of Cotton:

Property )hape Auster Tenacity2strength4 (ry #et Oesiliency (ensity Moisture absorption raw< conditioned saturation merceri1ed< conditioned saturation (imensional stability Oesistance to acids al,ali organic solvents sunlight microorganisms insects Thermal reactions to heat to flame

Evaluation >airly uniform in width, %6=6' micrometers- length varies from % cm to ; cm 2K to 6K inches4- typical length is 6.6 cm to H.H cm 2L to %M inches4. Eigh H.'=..' gNd H.H=;.' gNd Aow %..&=%..; gNcmP 9..7 %.=6.7 9..=%'.H7 %.=6:7Q Good damage, wea,en fibers resistant- no harmful effects high resistance to most 3rolonged exposure wea,ens fibers. Mildew and rot@producing bacteria damage fibers. )ilverfish damage fibers. (ecomposes after prolonged exposure to temperatures of %.'R or over. /urns readily.
3

otton fibers viewed under a scanning electron microscope The chemical composition of cotton is as follows:

cellulose ?%.''7 water :.9.7 protoplasm, pectins '...7 waxes, fatty substances '.&'7

Flow chart of wet processing:

/efore dyeing a fabric or yarn some pre@treatment and after treatment is needed. A flowchart is drawn here by combining these< Grey >abric Inspection S )ewing or )titching S )ingeing S (esi1ing S )couring S /leaching S Merceri1ing S (yeing S 3rinting S
4

>inishing S >inal Inspection S (elivery This is the most widely used wet processing flow@chart on the contemporary textile industry. /ut sometimes on some factories the scouring and bleaching is done simultaneously. Eere is a brief description of every process steps i have mentioned in above (yeing flowchart<@

Gray Fabric Inspection< In this step all of the gray and already colored fabric is separated. Mainly
we will wor, with the gray fabric is to ma,e this colored in our next process.

ewing or titching< If the fabrics are in part or in separate segments- then we have to bring these
all together by stitching or sewing.

ingeing< )ingeing is the process to remove or burn the protruding fibers over the cloth. #hile
weaving a fabric- some protruding fibers is created at the surface of the fabric and we should remove these short fibers before further dyeing processing.

!esi"ing< At the beaming section of ma,ing a >abric we uses various starch and si1es to ma,e the
warp yarn more stronger. /ut while we planned to ma,e this fabric colored we have to remove the applied starch and si1es as it might causes negative reaction with colors and chemicals.

couring< The main obBective of )couring process of wet processing technology is to polish the fabric
service by rubbing it hard or cleaning the surface and brighten it.

#leaching< /leaching process is one of the crucial processes of (yeing as it helps to gray fabric
brighter than usual.

$erceri"ing< Merceri1ing is a costly process but due to buyer re5uirements we might have to give the
fabric extra luster and brighter appearance.

!yeing< After merceri1ing the cotton or fabrics- this is the time to apply dye along with chemicals.
(yeing process is a broad topic and it is discussed in another category of this textile blog.

Printing< #hile dyeing is conducted to put color in all over the body of the fabric- 3rinting is done in
a specific 1one of the fabric. A specified design is created on the fabric surface before printing application is manipulated.

Finishing< In the finishing department of this #et processing >lowchart- the faults of fabrics, faults of
dyeing is to be monitored and possible spots is to be fixed.

Final Inspection< After dyeing a fabric it is to be finally monitored and rechec,ed.

5

!ispatch or !elivery< This is the last sector of (yeing department and in this stage the dyed fabrics
is to be exported or sent to the buyers.

couring couring< )couring is the process by which all natural and adventitious impurities such as oil, wax, fat
etc. are removed to produced hydrophilic and clean textile material. It is the vital process of wet processing.

Ob%ects of couring:

To ma,e the fabric highly hydrophilic. To remove impurities such as oils, waxes, gum, hus,s as completely as possible. To increase absorbency of fabric or textile materials without undergoing physical and chemical damage. To produced a clean material by adding al,ali. To remove natural colour and ma,e the fabric for next process. To remove non@cellulosic substance in case of cotton.

couring methods of Cotton:

Generally, there are two principle methods of cotton scouring. Fier boiling process Eori1ontal 0ertical. )couring in C or A box. 2 ontinuous4

Continuous scouring process of cotton & couring in '( bo)*: The scouring vessel is loo,s
li,e the $nglish letter TCU hence, this process is called B box process. In the process, desi1ing, scouring and bleaching can be performed at a time.

tandard recipe:
Al,ali 2"a!E4 #etting agent Q(etergent M<A 3ic, up Impregnation Temp Impregnation Time )toring time in C@box Temperature in C@box &@.gmNA &@.gmNA %<H ?'@%''7 :'@9'' &.@?'sec 6@&hr %'6@%'.o

Process: The wor,ing process in C@box can be divided into four units. There are

)aturation. 3re = heater. C = box.

6

#ashing unit.

aturation: )aturation is prepared by above recipe without caustic soda in the saturator. Then the wet
fabric is passed through the guide roller and immersed into the solution by immersion roller. The fabric is saturated either by open width or in rope form. Eere temperature is ,ept :'V = 9'V for about &'@?' sec then the fabric s5uee1ed and passed to the preheated.

Pre heater: In pre heater, material is passed into the thermostatic controlling system at temperature
%%'V = %6'V for H' se and passed to the C@ box by drawing roller.

'(bo): The fabric brought in C@ box after pre heater. In B@box, solution of caustic soda are ,ept and
fabric is stored in this solution for about H' min, here temperature %''V . In B@box, "a!E, reacted with the impurities present in the fabric and finally removed.

In C@/ox generally %6'''@ %.''' lb fabric can be scoured after C@ box the fabric is s5uee1ed and passed to the washing unit.

+ashing unit: The water soluble impurities or products that are left on the mtl are removed here.
>irst the materials are washed in hot water then cold water and finally dried.

,dvantage:

This process is a continuous process, so it consumes less time. This process is economical use. Use for scouring obtained)couring, de si1ing and bleaching performed at a time. The result is not good as compared with ,ier boiler. Euge damage may occur due to power failure.

!isadvantages:

#leaching
7

#leaching: /leaching of textile material is a chemical or commercial process which can be defined as
(estruction of natural coloring matters to impart a pure permanent and basic white effects suitable for the production of white finishes, level dyeing and desired printed shade with the minimum or no tendering2degradation4 or without diminishing the tensile strength.

Ob%ect:
To ensure a pure and permanent basic white color fabric. (estruction of natural coloring matters from the fabric. To increase absorbing for dyeing operation. To ensure level dyeing property. To ma,e the textile materials suitable for subse5uent processing 2dying printing etc.4

#leaching agents:
Two types of bleaching agent i.e oxidi1ing bleaching agent and Oeducing bleaching agent.

I* O)idi"ing bleaching agent<

!1one2!H4 Eydrogen peroxide 2E6!64 alcium hypochlorite W a2! l46D )odium hypochlorite W"a! lD )odium hlorite 2"a l!64 3otasium 3ermanganate 2FMn!&4 3er acetic acid /leaching powderW a2! l64.6 a2!E46D generally W a2! l4 lD 3otasium di@ hromate2F6 r6!:4 )odium di hromate2"a6 r6!:4 3otasium chlorate2F l!H4 )odium per oxide 2"a6!64 Xinc dust2Xn4 )taneous chloride 2)n l64 >errous sulphate 2>e)!&4 )ulphar di@oxide2)!64 )odium bi@ )ulphate2"aE)!&4 Eydrogen )ulphide2E6)4 )odium )ulphite formaldehyde )dium sulphate 2"a6)!&4 Eydrogen 2E64 arbon 2 4

II* -educing bleaching agent:

Classification of bleaching agent: Chlorine(based bleaches:

hlorine@based bleaches are found in many household cleaners. The concentration of chlorine@based bleaches is often expressed as percent active chlorine where one gram of a %''7 active chlorine bleach
8

has the same bleaching power as one gram of chlorine. These bleaches can react with other common household chemicals li,e vinegar or ammonia to produce toxic gases. Aabels on sodium hypochlorite bleach warn about these interactions.

Chemical interactions:
Mixing hypochlorite bleach with an acid can liberate chlorine gas. Eypochlorite and chlorine are in e5uilibrium in water- the position of the e5uilibrium is pE dependent and low pE 2acidic4 favors chlorine, l6 Q E6! EQ Q lY Q E l!

hlorine is a respiratory irritant that attac,s mucous membranes and burns the s,in. As little as H..H ppm can be detected as an odor, and %''' ppm is li,ely to be fatal after a few deep breaths. $xposure to chlorine has been limited to '.. ppm 29@hour time@weighted averageZH9 hour wee,4 by !)EA in the U.). )odium hypochlorite and ammonia react to form a number of products, depending on the temperature, concentration, and how they are mixed. The main reaction is chlorination of ammonia, first giving chloramine 2"E6 l4, then dichloramine 2"E l64 and finally nitrogen trichloride 2" lH4. These materials are very irritating to the eyes and lungs and are toxic above certain concentrations- nitrogen trichloride is also a very sensitive explosive. "EH Q "a! l [ "a!E Q "E6 l "E6 l Q "a! l [ "a!E Q "E l6 "E l6 Q "a! l [ "a!E Q " lH Additional reactions produce hydra1ine, in a variation of the !lin Oaschig process. "EH Q "E6 l Q "a!E [ "6E& Q "a l Q E6! The hydra1ine generated can react with more chloramine in an exothermic reaction to produce ammonium chloride and nitrogen gas< 6 "E6 l Q "6E& [ 6 "E& l Q "6 Atmospheric carbon dioxide and water react with bleaching powder 2 a l2! l44 to release hypochlorous acid which gives a characteristic smell to the bleaching powder. Eypochlorous acid decomposes readily to atomic oxygen. This atomic oxygen acts as bleaching agent through oxidation. 6 a l2! l4 Q E6! Q !6 [ a !H Q a l6 Q 6E l! E l! [ E l Q W!D 6E l Q W!D [ E6! Q l6 Eowever, the place of atomic oxygen in accounting for the formation of chlorine is not as plausible as another theory based on the so@called 8chloride system8 employed in modern hydrometallurgy to dissolve
9

ores with wea, acids in highly ionic and concentrated salt solutions. )alts particularly effective, in this regard, include Mg l6, a l6, >e lH and, to a less extent the mono@valent "a l. This is, in effect, an application of the non@common ion theory, or as discussed in #i,ipedia under )olubility $5uilibrium as the 8salt effect8. #ith respect to /leaching powder, which has been described as a compound salt of the form a2 l!46. a l6. a2!E46.xE6!, the presence of a l6 in very concentrated solutions can greatly increase the 8activity level8 of wea, acids. )o, in this particular proposed application, E 6 !H from !6 and moisture on the /leaching powder, acts on the a l6 to release some E l which acts on the E l! releasing hlorine< E l! Q E l [ E6! Q l6 or, the increasing acidity creates more E l! which moves the following ,nown 2and old, see #att8s (ictionary of hemistry4 e5uilibrium reaction to the right< a l6 Q 6 E l! J a2!E46 Q 6 l6 "ow, the strength of the particular application of this theory is that a similar release of hlorine is not as easily observed with concentrated "a l! solutions 2which it should be if one subscribes to the action of atomic oxygen on E l4. As the latter hlorine bleach also contains "a l, and as the "a l is not 5uite as effective as previously noted as, for example, with a l6, the ionic strength is not as great for noticeable hlorine formation.

odium hypochlorite:
Main article< )odium hypochlorite )odium hypochlorite is the most commonly encountered bleaching agent, usually as a dilute 2H@;74 solution in water. This solution of sodium hypochlorite, commonly referred to as simply *bleach*, was also one of the first mass@produced bleaches. It is produced by passing chlorine gas through a dilute sodium hydroxide solution l6 2g4 Q 6 "a!E 2a54 [ "a l 2a54 Q "a l! 2a54 Q E6! 2l4 or by electrolysis of brine 2sodium chloride in water4. 6 lY [ l6 Q 6 @e l6 Q E6! \ E l! Q lY Q EQ The dilute solution of sodium hypochlorite is used in many households to whiten laundry, disinfect hard surfaces in ,itchens and bathrooms, treat water for drin,ing and ,eep swimming pools free of infectious agents. Moreover, due to transport and handling safety concerns, the use of sodium hypochlorite is preferred over chlorine gas in water treatment, which represents a significant mar,et expansion potential.

Calcium hypochlorite:
Main article< alcium hypochlorite

10

alcium hypochlorite, also ,nown as chloride of lime, is made by reacting chlorine with calcium hydroxide< 6 l6 Q 6 a2!E46 [ a2 l!46 Q a l6 Q 6E6! It is used in many of the same applications as sodium hypochlorite, but has the advantages of being more stable and containing more available chlorine. alcium hypochlorite is the active ingredient in bleaching powder or *chlorinated lime*, which is usually a white powder containing calcium hypochlorite, calcium hydroxide and calcium chloride. A purer, more stable form of calcium hypochlorite is called ETE or high test hypochlorite. /leaching tablets contain calcium hypochlorite plus other ingredients to prevent the tablets from crumbling. A supposedly more stable mixture of calcium hypochlorite and 5uic,lime 2calcium oxide4 is ,nown as *tropical bleach 3ercent active chlorine in these materials ranges from 6'7 for bleaching powder to :'7 for ETE.

Chlorine:
Main article< hlorine hlorine is produced by the electrolysis of sodium chloride. 6 "a l Q 6 E6! [ l6 Q E6 Q 6 "a!E hlorine is used to prepare sodium and calcium hypochlorites. It is used as a disinfectant in water treatment, especially to ma,e drin,ing water and in large public swimming pools . hlorine was used extensively to bleach wood pulp, but this use has decreased significantly due to environmental concerns.

Chlorine dio)ide:
Main article< hlorine dioxide hlorine dioxide, l!6, is an explosive gas and must be used where it is made or shipped and stored as dilute a5ueous solutions. (espite these limitations it finds applications for the bleaching of wood pulp, fats and oils, cellulose, flour, textiles, beeswax, s,in, and in a number of other industries. It can be prepared by oxidi1ing sodium chlorite with chlorine 6 "a l!6 Q l6 [ 6 l!6 Q 6 "a l /ut more commonly it is prepared by reducing sodium chlorate with a suitable reducing agent li,e methanol, hydrogen peroxide, hydrochloric acid, or sulfur dioxide 6 "a l!H Q 6 EI Q *O* [ 6 "aI Q 6 l!6 Q *O!* Q E6! #here *O* is the reducing agent and *O!* is the oxidi1ed form.

odium per carbonate:

)odium percarbonate is produced industrially by reaction of sodium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide, followed by crystalli1ation. Also, dry sodium carbonate may be treated directly with concentrated hydrogen peroxide solution. 6"a6 !H Q HE6!6[6"a6 !H.HE6!6
11

(issolved in water, it yields a mixture of hydrogen peroxide 2see above4 and sodium carbonate. It is generally considered to be an eco@friendly cleaning agent.

odium perborate:
)odium perborate, "a6E&/6!9, is made by reacting borax with sodium hydroxide to give sodium metaborate 2"a/!64 which is then reacted with hydrogen peroxide to give hydrated sodium perborate. "a6/&!: Q 6 "a!E [ & "a/!6 Q E6! 6 "a/!6 Q 6 E6!6 Q ; E6! [ W"a/!6 2!E4 6 x H E6!D 6 )odium perborate is useful because it is a stable, source of peroxide anions. #hen dissolved in water it forms some hydrogen peroxide, but also perborate anion 2/2!!E42!E4H@4, which is activated for nucleophilic oxidation.

.ydrogen pero)ide:
Eydrogen peroxide is produced in very large amounts by several different processes. Its action as an oxidi1er is why it is made and used in such large 5uantities. It is used by itself as a bleaching agent, for example to bleach wood pulp, hair and so on, or to prepare other bleaching agents li,e the perborates, percarbonates, peracids, etc.

.ydrogen pero)ide bleached uses chemicals:

Oe5uired chemical< Eydrogen peroxide 2E6!64 )tabili1er austic soda. )oda ash #etting agent

#leaching action of .ydrogen per o)ide: Under certain condition, particularly regard to P. ,
hydrogen peroxide will liberate hydrogen ion and per hydroxyl ions in the following manner 3er hydroxyl ions responsible for bleaching. Al,alinity favours the liberation of 3er hydroxyl ions because the positively charged hydrogen ion is neutrali1ed but excessive al,alinity cause the peroxide to become unstable. The hydro = peroxide ion is resposible for bleaching action. In presence of catalyst such as a !H, >e, u, r, Mg etc. liberated oxygen by decomposing E 6!6 and lower the strength of E6!6. 6E6!6 6E6! Q !6 Eence 26' = :'4 or 2;' @ 9'4 hardness are suitable for bleaching.

$ethods of bleaching with .ydrogen Pero)ide:

There are two chief methods for bleaching of cotton goods with E6!6. /leaching in ,ier 2(iscontinuous4 /leaching in C = /ox 2 ontinuous4

#leaching in %(bo): &continuous bleaching process*:

12

The bleaching vessel is loo,s li,e TCU the english letter TCU hence this process is C = /ox process. C@/ox is made of stainless steel or ceramic. )couring in C@/ox mode, the scouring in short duration and easily controlled. As scouring and bleaching are performed continuously, hence two C@/oxes are re5uired. In textile mill, this process are used commercially. apacity of C@/oxes are ;@&' tones per day. >ollowing recipe is re5uired for bleaching< austic soda = 6 lbs E6!6 2H.74 = %.. gallon Magnesium sulphate = '.6 lbs )odium silicate = %. lbs #ater = ?: gallons 3E = %'.? This process is done by following three processes< &/*Processing in impregnation bo): At first, above chemicals are dissolved and ma,e li5uor is impregnation box. After processing from %st C@box for scouring the mtls. then wash. The mtls. are immersed into impregnation box by immersion roller then s5uee1ed and brought to the C = box. &0* toring in '(#o): After impregnation of fabric from bleaching li5uor then, the mtl. store in C@/ox where, steaming is done at ?H@??'c for ;'@?' mins. and bleaching is completed. &1* +ashing: Then the mtls are washed in hot water then in cold water and finally dried or first the mtls are washed with 67 solution of sodium carbonate at 9'@9?'c and finally washed with cold water.

,dvantages of .0O0 bleaching over other bleaching agent:

E6!6 does not react with residual protein of fibre and hence no need antichloro treatment. 3ermanent white cotton is obtainable and the bleached fabics are highly hydrophilic since the waxes are solublised and removal by the hot al,aline solution. Its reaction products are relatively non toxic and it decomposes to oxygen and water thus reducing greatly the effluent pollution of the bleaching plant. E6!6 bleaching is carried out in al,aline medium and elevated temp. is about %'''c, hence scouring and bleaching completed together. )mall amount of impurities present in cotton fibre, give stability of E6!6 in solution and so needs scouring. >or this reason, impurities in cotton acts as stabili1er in E6!6 bleaching. #eight of fabric after E6!6 bleaching is higher than that of hypochlorite bleaching. Tensile strength is greater after E6!6 bleached fabric than that of hypochlorite bleached. Another advantage is degradation possibility of fabric is less due to over bleached.
13

Eard water preferable.26'@:' 4. /leaching and dyeing can be sometimes combined in a single operation. The no. of operation and stages in the bleaching can be reduced and continuous one stage process can be wor,ed. It si compatible with the most fibres and can be applied to a wide variety of fabric under a wide range of bleaching condition and machines.

!isadvantages of .0O0 bleaching over other bleaching agent:

/leaching is slow unless high temperature is applied energy atalytic decomposition of E6'6 occurs along with catalytic degradation of cellulose due to iron, "e, u and 3b hydroxide present in the bleaching solution or I the fabric. The above metals and their alloys cannot be used as material of construction of E 6'6 bleaching containers.

Causes of .0O0 universal bleaching agent:

Eydrogen peroxide is successfully used to bleach both cellulosic 2vegetable4 and protein 2animal4 fibre. In case of cellulosic fibre, E6!6 permanently destroy the natural color and obtained good result. In case of protein fibre E6!6 oxidi1ed the protein mtl. but if no chloride ion. >or this di@ appearance, it has no effect on protein fibre and also destroys the natural color permanently. E6!6 bleaching is done at elevated temperature is about %'''c in al,ali medium and hence scouring and bleaching can be performed together. )o, E6!6 is called univesal bleaching agent.

-eactive !yes -eactive dyes: in a reactive dye a chromophore contains a substituent that reacts with the substrate.
Oeactive dyes have good fastness properties owing to the bonding that occurs during dyeing. Oeactive dyes are most commonly used in dyeing of cellulose li,e cotton or flax, but also wool is dyeable with reactive dyes. Oeactive dyeing is the most important method for the coloration of cellulosic fibres. Oeactive dyes can also be applied on wool and nylon- in the latter case they are applied under wea,ly acidic conditions. Oeactive dyes have a low utili1ation degree compared to other types of dyestuff, since the functional group also bonds to water, creating hydrolysis Usage Oeactive dyes react with the fibres. Mainly react with cellulosic fibres e.g. cotton, Bute, bast fibres, viscose, flax It can be applied to protein fibres e.g. wool ] sil,. Oeactive dye contains reactive group and this reactive group ma,es covalent bonds with the fibres and becomes part of the fibre. The general formula of Oeactive dye can be written as follows< (@I@^
14

Eere

( @@_ hromophore of (ye post I @@_ /ridge ^ @@_ >unctional group

(@I@^ Q >ibre @@_ (@I@^@>ibre ovalent bond. Oeactive dyes water soluble (@> Q ell@!E @@_ (ye@>@!@cell (@> Q E@!E @@_ (ye@>@!E Eydrolysis > J >unctional group

Properties of -eactive dyes:

#ater )oluble dyes. Ma,es covalent bonds with the fibres. A certain amount of dye is hydroly1ed during dyeing 2%'@;'74 (yeing is carried out in al,aline condition 23E %%..4.
J

Euge electrolyte is necessary for dyeing with reactive dyes. >astness 2wash, light, Oubbing, perspiration4 properties are generally good. $asy applicable to cellulosic as well as protein fibres. 2#ool ] )il,4 0ery popular and wide used in the wet processing industry in /angladesh. omparatively cheap. All ,inds of shade is found. (yeing method is easy.

.istory of -eactive dye: !n the occasion of %'' years celebration of )ynthetic dye manufacturing,
two chemists of I I ompany 2UF4 named )tephen and Oattee tried to manufacture a new dye stuff. Thus they succeed to invent a new dye in %?.; which was named O$A TI0$ (^$. This was manufactured for dyeing cellulosic fibres. The % st three Oeactive dyes were 3rocion ^ellow O, 3rocion brilliant Oed 6/ and 3rocion /lue HG. >or this effort they were awarded Gold Medal of the )ociety of (yes and colourists for the year %?;'. These dyes came to our country in Mid ;'Us and became very popular during 9'Us.

,dvantage of -eactive dyes:

Good washing fastness 2Oating &@.4 very good light fastness 2Oating ;4
15

Aower cost. )imple dyeing method Good reproducibility. Aow dyeing temp 2below %''o 4 Ability to produce bright shade (ye molecular composition $asily applicable to cellulosic fibre as well as protein All ,inds of shade is found.

Importance of -eactive group present in -eactive dye:

Oeactive groups do not contribute colour which is determined by chromogen group. the reactivity of vinyl sulphone group is less than halogen group. If no of reactive group increases, binding also increases depending on dye structure. reactive dye absorb up to ?'7. If the molecular wt of reactive group increases, reactivity also increases Oeactivity of vinyl sulphone group increases with increases of 3E and temp. )ulphone group has mere solubility but it is not stable hlorine imparts medium reactivity, but it is cheap. Oeactivity of >luorine is the least and its rate of hydrolysis is also less.

Criteria of cellulose for attaching -eactive dye:

hemical structure of cellulose molecule

Glucose unit:

16

$ach glucose unit contains one primary hydroxyl group 2@ E !#4 and two secondary hydroxyl
6

groups 2_!E4 3rimary hydroxyl group 2@ E !E4 at

6 ;

position is more reactive than the secondary hydroxyl

groups at
6 6

and
H

position hydroxyl group under suitable al,aline

H

Eydroxyl group is supposed to be acidic than condition and more reactive. The hemiacetal group at
%

position is the most active.

The reaction betn reactive group and cellulose ta,es place predominantly with primary hydroxyl group. In case of monochloro tria1inyl dyes, the reaction ratio of @ E !E ] @ E!E is %.<%
6

i.e.
;

<
6

or
H

J %.<%

In case of dichloro tria1inyl dyes, the reaction Oatio of @ E !E ] @ E!E H<% to :<%
6

)econdary hydroxyl group is the least reactive while primary one is the most reactive

Classification of -eactive dyes<

%2 On the #asis of -eactive group: Two types Ealogenated heteroycles Tria1ine group <

$xample< 3rocoin, ibacron

3yrimidine

17

`uinoxaline

Activated 0inyl compounds< 0inyl )ulphone 2(@)! @ E @ E @4 $x< Oama1ol.

6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6

0inyl )ulphonamide 2(@)! @"E@ E @ E @4 $x. Aevafix 0inyl acrylamide 2(@"E !@ E @ E @4 $x< 3rima1ine

02 On the #asis of -eactivity: Eigh reactivity < $x< 3rocion M Moderate reactivity< $x< Aiva fix@$ Aow reactivity < $x< 3rema1ine

(yes can be devided into 6 groups

18

old /rand Eot /rand.

Chemical Classification of -eactive !yes:

Oeactive dyes can be classified chemically into three 2H4 different groups< hloro tria1inyl Oeactive dyes. Monochloro dyes. (ichloroN/ifunctional Trichloro. Monochloro dyes<

(ichloro<

Trichloro pyrimidyl<

6. 0inyl sulphone (yes<

19

(ye. )!
6

EJ E
6

H. Eeterocyclic helogen containing Oeactive dyes@

(rimarine F Aevafix $<

3rima1ine 3 (yes<

.ydrolysis of -eactive !ye3Technical defficiency of -2!:

Under al,aline condition, Oeactive dyes react with the terminal hydroxyl group of cellulose. /ut if the soln of the dye is ,ept for long time, its concentration drops. Then the dye react with the hydroxyl group of water. the reaction of dye with water is called Eydrolysis of reactive dye.

I4 Incase of Tria1inyl dyes< a4

20

II 4 In case of 0inyl )ulphone (yes< (ye@)! E J E Q E! = cellulose (ye = )!

6 6 6 6

E @ E ! cellulose
6 6

(ye@)! E J E Q E@!E (ye@)!

6 6

E
6

E !E
6

Mono hydroxy group !yeing mechanism of reactive dye: The dyeing mechanism of material with reactive dye ta,es place in H stages<@ $xhaustion of dye in presence of electrolyte or dye absorption. >ixation under the influence of al,ali. wash@off the unfixed dye from material surface. "ow they are mentioned below< (ye absorption< #hen fibre is immersed in dye li5uor, an electrolyte is added to assist the exhaustion of dye. Eere "a l is used as the electrolyte. This electrolyte neutrali1e the negative charge formed in the fibre surface and puts extra energy to increase dye absorption. )o when the textile material is introduces to dye li5uor the dye is exhausted on to the fibre.

>ixation< >ixation of dye means the reaction of reactive group of dye with terminal =!E or@"E 6 group of fibre and thus forming strong covalent bond with the fibre and thus forming strong covalent bond with the fibre. This is an important phase, which is controlled by maintaining proper pE by adding al,ali. The al,ali used for this purpose depends on brand of dye and dyeing temperature. Eere generally caustic soda, soda ash or "aE !H is used as al,ali depending upon reactivity of dye. They create proper pE in dye bath and do as the dye@fixing agent. The reaction ta,es place in this stage is shown below< @ (@)!6@ E6@ E6@!@ ell Q "aE)!H
21

%. (@)!6@ E6@ E6@!)!H"a Q !E@ ell

6. (@)!6@ E6@ E6@!)!H"a Q !E@#ool

(@)!6@ E6@ E6@!@#ool Q "aE)!H

H.

#ash@off< As the dyeing is completed, a good wash must be applied to the material to remove extra and unfixed dyes from material surface. This is necessary for level dyeing and good wash@fastness. It is done by a series of hot wash, cold wash and soap solution wash.

Controlling Parameters3Factors:
P. Temperature (yeing time. Ai5uor Oatio. oncentration of electrolyte 2salt4 3E of dye bath< 3E range for Oeactive dyes %'@%%.. (yeing time< (yeing time - Eydrolysis The exhausion ta,es place in 6'@H' min

22

Temperature< Temperature of dyeing Eydrolysis &'o@%''o temp is applied.

Ai5uor Oatio< M<A may be %<. = %<6' oncentration of electrolyte< ommon salt and glauberUs salt. oncentration of salt may be 6'@%'' gNA depends on the shade 2'.%@..'74

6. )emi continuous method

H. ontinuous method

tripping:
)tripping becomes necessary when uneven dyeing occurs. /y stripping a1o groups 2@"J"@4 brom the dye is removed.

I* Partial stripping methods:

3artial stripping is obtained by treating the dyed fabric with dilute acetic acid or formic acid. The commanded conc. is betn . to %' parts glacial aid or 6.. =%' parts of formic acid per %''' parts of water Oecipe< Glacial acetic acid J . = %' parts #ater !O >ormic acid #ater Temp Time @@_ 6.. to %' parts @@_ %''' parts @@_ :'@%''o @@_ Until the desired shade is obtained.
23

@@_ %''' parts

3rocess@ The goods are entered and temp is raise to :'@%'' o products of hydrolysis.

and the treatment is continued until the

shade has been reduced to the desired amount thoroughly washing is then necessary to remove the

II* Full stripping:

>or complete stripping, the goods are treated with "a6)6!& )odium hydrosulphite ] )oda at boil.

$aterials and $ethods of -eactive !yeing: -aw materials:

)ame fabric of Table % has been used in all trials done both in lab and bul,.

$ethods:
The fabric was dyed in exhaust method in the laboratory and in bul, scale at Aman tex Atd.

Processes followed in laboratory trial: Pretreatment:

Table@6< Oecipe for 3retreatment in laboratory trials. +ith #leaching 4ame of Chemical #etting agent )e5uestering agent Anti reasing agent austic soda 2"a!E4 Eydrogen per oxide2E6!64 .'7 )tabili1er 5ty &g3l* %.'' '..' %.'' 6.'' H.'' '..' +ithout #leaching 4ame of Chemical #etting agent )e5uestering agent Anti reasing agent austic soda 2"a!E4 Eydrogen oxide2E6!64 )tabili1er
24

5ty &g3l* %.'' '..' %.'' H.''

per @ @

3eroxide Filler M<A Temperature Time

'.H' %<%' %''ac .'min

3eroxide Filler M<A Temperature Time

@ %<%' %''ac .'min

25

The samples were categori1ed as dyed samples with bleaching and dyed samples without bleaching at same dye bath and same recipe

Process followed in testing

>or colour fastness to wash I)! %'. 'H was method followed- for colour fastness to rubbing Ncroc,ing $" I)! %'.b%6 was method followed and for color fastness to perspiration I)! %'. $'6 method was followed In respect to colour fastness properties, the unbleached samples revealed the same better results as it was in case of bleached samples2

-esults and discussions Color $easurement Committee &C$C* !E pass3fail values:

Table &< M passNfail values for different shade 7 hade 6 4ova2 -ed # 4ova2 8ellow 14ova2 #lue F4Combination &-(920: 8( 920: #(92/* '.%' '.6. '..' '.%' '.6. '..' '.%' '.6. '..' '.. C$C !E %.%. '.;' '.?? '.H6 H.&6 %.&: %.6' '.99 '.:9 '.&' !7 @6.%' @'.:H @%..6 @'.6? @6.?' @%.6H @'.?? @%.?9 @%.:. @'.:; !a %.;' '.9: %.H6 @'.6; H.?% %..6 @'.&? @'.66 '.%; @'.%. !b '.6. '... '.99 '.H& ;.6; H.&9 %.&H '..' @'.HH @'.%& Comments Fail Pass Pass Pass Fail Fail Fail Pass Pass Pass

26

The above result shows that dyeing without bleaching is possible up to '..7 red, '..7 blue and '.%7 yellow shades and also for specific combination shades 2'..74

Cost analysis
In the bul, trial bleaching process needed ? chemicals and without bleaching process only ; chemicals were used. )o process without bleaching saves extra H chemicals.

Cost of chemicals & ource: Purchasing department of ,mante) 7td2*

>rom the table it is clear that process without /leaching saves :.:T,N%''',g 2approx.4 fabrics.

Time saved:
As per table H, the process with bleaching needs 6&H min and process without bleaching needs %9. min. )o process without bleaching saves .9 min. As a result process without bleaching provides following benefits because of less time consumption< %. 3roduction will increase 6. Aabor cost will decrease H. )aves machine running cost. i.e. electricity, gas, and power cost.

Energy cost calculation for $C dyeing machine:

%,w hour J % unit of electricity % unit cost J ...T, 2approx4 (yeing machine is of ;' F# capacity o it consume ;'b% J ;' unit per hour ost J;'b... J HH'T,Nhr )ince process without bleaching save .9 minutes, )o it saves .9b... J H%?T, 2approx.4 energy cost. )ource< Maintenance department of Amantex Atd.

+ater saved due to elimination of per(o)ide:

the trial was done in Material< Ai5uor J %<;. >or conventional pretreatment process H''''lt water was re5uired, whereas without bleaching pretreatment process re5uired 6&'''lt. )o proposed process saves extra ;'''lt of water.

Cost of treated water after +ater Treatment Plant &+TP*:

27

)o for ;''' lit of water process without bleaching saves ;x..%% J H'.;; T, 2approx.4

Cost in ETP:

)o, for ;'''At of water process without bleaching saves ;x%%.?: J :%.96 T, 2approx.4 Total cost for ;'''lt water J H'.;;Q:%.96 J %'6.&9T, J /91 T;2 2approx.4

avings from cost of heating:

Eere Eeat "eededJ )pecific Eeat of #ater 2&.%9; ,BN,gNR 4amass of waterachange in temperature.
28

Eeating ost )avingsJ 2Eeat "eededN)pecific ost of steam< onsidering the steam cost of 33

$nthalpy

of

steam4acost

of

steam

Total saving in cost:

)o proposed process saves %&;;T,N%''',g 2approx.4 and .9 minute duration.

Conclusion:
(etailed experimental data were manipulated through the research wor,. As the elimination of bleaching results the grayness retaining in cotton fabric, M ($ passNfail comparison with conventionally treated fabric were investigated. onse5uently color fastness to wash, rubbing and perspiration have been tested. (uring this experiment dyeing is performed for shade percentages of '..', '.6., and '.%' with bleaching and without bleaching for Oed, ^ellow, /lue and combination shades. >or Oed, /lue and combination color up to '..7 shade has been passed in data color result but below '..7 the result in data color did not pass. It was passed up to '.%7 shade in case of yellow color. /esides, samples passed in data color results have been shown good color fastness 2washing, rubbing and perspiration4 values. )ome bul, dyeing has been performed in factory after successful completion of laboratory trials. $xperiments were done on different combination shades the results have been derived successfully. It can be concluded that dyeing with red 2'.674, blue 2'.%74 and yellow 2'.674 excluding bleaching process passed at data color ;.' 2 M passNfail4 with conventional 2including bleaching4 dyeing process. In case of specific combination shade it was found that '..7 shade is possible without bleaching operation. ost analysis displays that %66'T, 2approx.4 was saved per %''' ,g fabric dyeing through the proposed way.

-eferences:
%.http<NNwww.fibre6fashion.comNindustry@articleN&NH%;Ncost@effectiveness@in@textile@processing%.asp 6. Easan, Md. Oa,ibul, *)copes of Improvisation in Fnit@(yeing process of otton in /angladesh to optimi1e the process@time*, /angladesh Textile Today, March@April@6'%'. &. Interview from Mr. "eaB Mohammad )oyeb, (yeing Manager of Amantex Atd. ..Interview from Md Arshad, Manager of the department of $T3 and #T3. Amantex Atd.

29