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Build Your Own Arduino


by ArduinoFun on October 16, 2009 Table of Contents Build Your Own Arduino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Intro: Build Your Own Arduino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 1: Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 2: Setting Up Power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 3: Arduino Pin Mapping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 4: Component Hook Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 5: Programming Options . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 6: PCB Files . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 7 8 8

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-Arduino/

Intro: Build Your Own Arduino Setting up an Arduino on a breadboard has become a process I have grown to love. Within a few minutes you can have a fully working Arduino platform to work with as you will see in this tutorial. There have been several occasions when I was at school and quickly put together one of these for testing some ideas for a project. Plus it is just looks so neat with all the components laid out over the breadboard. Some of my Arduino Projects

Whats is an Arduino?
Arduino is an open-source electronics prototyping platform based on flexible, easy-to-use hardware and software. It's intended for artists, designers, hobbyists, and anyone interested in creating interactive objects or environments. Arduino can sense the environment by receiving input from a variety of sensors and can affect its surroundings by controlling lights, motors, and other actuators. The microcontroller on the board is programmed using the Arduino programming language (based on Wiring) and the Arduino development environment (based on Processing). Arduino projects can be stand-alone or they can communicate with software on running on a computer (e.g. Flash, Processing, MaxMSP).[1] www.arduino.cc

Image Notes 1. 9V Battery with Battery Snap 2. 400 Point Breadboard 3. +5V Regulator 4. ATmega328

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-Arduino/

5. 16MHz Clock Crystal 6. .22 pF Capacitors 7. Breakout Board for FT232RL USB to Serial SparkFun sku: BOB-00718 8. 10 uF Capacitor 9. 10 uF Capacitor 10. LEDs 11. Momentary Tact Switch, normally open (off) 12. 10K Ohm Resistor 13. 220 Ohm Resistors

Step 1: Components With a few inexpensive parts and a solderless breadboard you can quickly and easily build your own Arduino. This concept works great when you want to prototype a new design idea, or you don't want to tear apart your design each time you need your Arduino. The example below shows how to hook up the components on your breadboard. We will go into further detail throughout this project. Figure 1-1: Breadboard Arduino with USB programming ability. Before we get started, make sure you have all the necessary items in the component list box. If you need to purchase parts you can do so from my site at www.ArduinoFun.com or see below for other online stores * See note about the TTL-232R cable in programming options before purchasing. 10% OFF Entire Order at ArduinoFun.com, use Coupon Code: INSTRUCTABLES upon check out.
You can buy components at www.ArduinoFun.com or www.SparkFun.com or www.CuriousInventor.com or www.FunGizmos.com or www.Adafruit.com just to name a few places off hand. Origninal tutorial by: http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/Tutorials/ArduinoBreadboard

Step 2: Setting Up Power The first thing you need to do is set up power. With your breadboard and components in front of you... let's get started! With this step, you will be setting the breadboard Arduino up for constant +5Volts power using a 7805 voltage regulator. Figure 1-2: Power setup with LED indicator. In order for the voltage regulator to work, you need to provide more than 5V power. A typical 9V battery with a snap connector would work just fine for this. Power is going to come into the breadboard where you see the red and black + and squares. Then add one of the 10uF capacitors. The longer leg is the Anode (Positive) and the shorter leg is the Cathode (Negative). Most capacitors are also marked with a stripe down the negative side. Across the empty space on the breadboard (the channel) you will need to place two hook-up wires for positive (red) and ground (black) to jump power from one side of the breadboard to the other. Now add the 7805 voltage regulator. The 7805 has three legs. If you are looking at it from the front, the left leg is for voltage in (Vin) the middle leg is for ground (GND) and the third leg is for voltage out (Vout). Make sure the left leg is lined up with your
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-Arduino/

positive power in, and the second pin to ground. Coming out of the voltage regulator and going to the power rail on the side of the breadboard you need to add a GND wire to the ground rail and then the Vout wire (3rd leg of the voltage regulator) to the positive rail. Add the second 10uF capacitor to the power rail. Paying attention to the Positive and Negative sides. Its a good idea to include an LED status indicator which can be used for troubleshooting. To do this you need to connect the right side power rail with the left power rail. Add positive to positive and negative to negative wires at the bottom of your breadboard. Figure 1-3: Left and Right Power Rail Connections. Having power on the left and right power rail will also help to keep your breadboard organized when providing power to the various components. Figure 1-4: For the LED status indicator, connect a 220& resistor (colored as: red, red, brown) from power to the anode of the LED (positive side, longer leg) and then a GND wire to the cathode side. Congratulations, now your breadboard is set up for +5V power. You can move onto the next step in the circuit design.

Step 3: Arduino Pin Mapping Now we want to prepare the ATmega168 or 328 chip. Before we begin, lets take a look at what each pin on the chip does in relationship to the Arduino functions. NOTE: The ATmega328 runs pretty much the same speed, with same pinout, but features more than twice the flash memory (30k vs 14k) and twice the EEPROM (1Kb vs 512b). Figure 1-5: Arduino Pin Mapping The ATmega168 chip is created by Atmel. If you look up the datasheet you wont find that the above references are the same. This is because the Arduino has its own functions for these pins, and I have provided them only on this illustration. If you would like to compare or need to know the actual references for the chip, you can download a copy of the datasheet at www.atmel.com. Now that you know the layout of the pins, we can start hooking up the rest of the components.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-Arduino/

Step 4: Component Hook Up To start, we will build the supporting circuitry for one side of the chip and then move on to the other side. Pin one on most chips has an identifier marker. Looking at the ATmega168 or 328 you will notice a u-shaped notch at the top as well as a small dot. The small dot indicates that this is pin 1. Figure 1-6: Supporting circuitry pins 15-28 From the GND power bus, add a jumper wire to pin 22. Next, from the positive power bus, add jumper wires to pin 20 (AVCC Supply voltage for the ADC converter. Needs to be connected to power if ADC isn't being used and to power via a low-pass filter if it is (a low pass filter is a circuit that cleans out noise from the power source, we aren't using one) Then add a jumper wire from the positive bus to pin 21 (Analog reference pin for ADC). On the Arduino, pin 13 is the LED pin. Note that on the actual chip the pin is number 19. When uploading your sketch code and for all projects you will still reference this as Pin 13. To hook up the LED, add a 220& resistor from GND to the cathode of the LED. Then from the anode of the LED add a jumper wire to pin 19. Now we can move onto the other side of the chip. You are almost finished! Figure 1-7: Supporting circuitry pins 1-14 Above the ATmega168 chip near the pin 1 identifier, place the small tact switch. This switch is used for resetting the Arduino. Right before you upload a new sketch to the chip you will want to press this once. Now add a small jumper wire from pin 1 to the bottom leg of the switch then add the 10K resistor from power to the pin 1 row on the breadboard. Finally add a GND jumper wire to the top leg of the switch. Add power and GND jumpers to pin 7(VCC) and pin 8 (GND). Add the 16MHz clock crystal to pin 9 and 10 and then the two .22pF capacitors from pins 9 and 10 to GND. (See note below for alternative method). Your basic breadboard arduino is now complete. You could stop right here if you wanted to and swap an already programmed chip from your Arduino board to the breadboard, but since you came this far, you might as well finish off by adding some programming pins. This will allow you to program the chip from the breadboard. NOTE: Instead of using the 16MHz clock crystal, you can use a 16 MHz ceramic resonator with built-in capacitors, threeterminal SIP package. You will have to arrange your breadboard a little differently, the resonator has three legs. The middle leg will go to ground and the other two legs will go to pins 9 & 10 on the ATmega168 chip. Referring to Figure 1-7, locate a spot where you have 6 columns on the breadboard that are not in contact with anything else. Place a row of six male header pins here. With the breadboard facing you, the connections are as follows: GND, NC, 5V, TX, RX, NC, I am also calling these pins 1,2,3,4,5,6. From your power bus rail, add the GND wire to pin 1 and a wire from power for pin 3. NC means not connected, but you can connect these to GND if you want to.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-Arduino/

From pin 2 on the ATmega168 chip, which is the Arduino RX pin, you will connect a wire to pin 4 (TX) of your programming headers. On the ATmega168 chip, pin 3 Arduino TX gets connected to pin 5 (RX) on your header pins. The communication looks like this: ATmega168 RX to Header Pin TX, and ATmega168 TX to Header Pin RX. Now you can program your breadboard Arduino.

Step 5: Programming Options The first option is to buy a TTL-232R 3.3V USB TTL Level Serial Cable. These can be purchased at www.adafruit.com or www.ftdichip.com The other two options, which I prefer are to buy one of two breakout boards from www.SparkFun.com. They are: FT232RL USB to Serial Breakout Board, SKU: BOB-00718 (This option takes up more space on your breadboard) FTDI Basic Breakout - 3.3V SKU: DEV-08772 (This option, and using right angle male headers works the best out of all three because it is secured better on the breadboard)

Double check your connections, make sure your 9V battery is not connected and hook up your programming option. Open up the Arduino IDE and in the Example sketch files, under Digital, load the Blink sketch. Under the file option Serial Port, select the COM port that you are using with your USB cable. i.e. COM1, COM9, etc. Under the file option Tools/Board, select either: Arduino Duemilanove w/ATmega328 Arduino Decimila, Duemilanove or Nano w/ATmega128 (depending on which chip you are using with your breadboard Arduino) Now press the upload icon and then hit the reset button on your breadboard. If you are using one of the SparkFun breakout boards, you will see the RX and TX lights blink. This lets you know that the data is being sent. Sometimes you need to wait a few seconds after pressing the upload button before pressing the reset switch. If you have trouble, just experiment a little with how fast you go between the two. This sketch if uploaded properly will blink the LED on pin 13 on for one second, off for one second, on for one seconduntil you either upload a new sketch or turn off the power. Once you have uploaded the code, you can disconnect the programming board and use your 9V battery for power. Troubleshooting No Power Make sure your source power is above 5V. Power but nothing works recheck all your connection points. Uploading error Refer to www.arduino.cc and do a search on the particular error message you receive. Also check the forums as there is a lot of great help there.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-Arduino/

Step 6: PCB Files


If anyone is interested in etching their own PCB (printed circuit board) I have included the component and solder side pcb files. I have added a zip file which contains 300dpi JPG files of the component side and solder side. If you have questions, feel free to email me and I will help you out the best I can. Just note I have classes throughout the day, so sometimes my replies can take a day to respond.

Image Notes 1. These are just extra hook ups for anything. 2. These were for servos. This board was actually part of a school project I did. So you can ignore these if you want. 3. Volts In. +9 to 12v 4. DC Power jack 5. Raw 6. Raw 7. +5V 8. 16MHz crystal resonator with built in capacitors 9. Programming Pins 10. Female Headers 11. Female Headers 12. ATmega 168/328 socket and chip

File Downloads

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-Arduino/

pcb.zip (447 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'pcb.zip']

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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 101 comments

ArduinoFun says:

Oct 19, 2009. 2:11 PM REPLY I had the images embedded into the step by step directions. Were you able to see those? I have uploaded printable versions to be included as well with each step. Please let me know if everything is done properly now. I felt the embedded illustrations worked better so you could follow along easier and look at them as a map of where to place wires, etc. Thank you for your time, and for such a great web site!

XylophonicMonkey says:
I have a sneaky suspicion that it's an automated response. Nice initiative with the embedding forces you to read the steps and not just give the pictures a once over and forget it like one usually does :)

Oct 20, 2009. 9:28 AM REPLY

purpulhaze says:

Apr 7, 2010. 6:48 AM REPLY I believe the cheapest route would be to use a usb to rs-232 cable as they can be bought for as lil' as $2.00 shipped. Couldn't I also tap into the power from the cable so I can eliminate the 9 volt battery. How well would a setup like this work with serial monitor though?

msuzuki777 says:

Mar 10, 2011. 12:32 PM REPLY I recently ordered one of these usb to rs-232 cables but just thought of a problem. RS-232 signals are +5 and -5V instead of 0 and 5V so RS-232 will not interface directly with an Arduino or the breadboard. However, I think these are all based on the Prolific PL2303 chip which I believe is 0-5V (TTL). If that is the case, then the correct signals are available. If I get it to work, I will do and Instructable. Lazy Old Geek

espert92 says:
I did the breadboard setup above and bought a usb-to-rs232 cable. what now? how do I connect the two

Mar 10, 2011. 2:39 AM REPLY

msuzuki777 says:
If you also bought the P4, in theory you could connect the cable to P4 and connect the P4 to the breadboard.

Mar 10, 2011. 12:38 PM REPLY

If you haven't bought the P4, I wouldn't yet. I think there is a way to interface the cable directly to the breadboard. I have one on order and when I get it, I will try to get it to work and will write an Instructable if it does. Lazy Old Geek

robotakepri says:

Dec 18, 2010. 11:09 PM REPLY Hi, I'm a very newbie in this Arduino. I have tried to build my own Arduino Board using ATmega328 chip with Arduino Bootloader and for upload the sketch, I'm using FTDI Basic Breakout - 5V ( both of this part are from SparkFun ). I've followed all your wiring schematic. The power LED and the 13 pin LED blink without any problems ( so I think nothing wrong with the ATmega 328 chip ) The problem occured when I try to upload the blink sketch to the board, there are some avrdude error that I don't understand how to solve . The error message is : Binary sketch size: 1010 bytes (of a 30720 byte maximum) avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00 avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x51

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-Arduino/

For make sure all the wiring is correct, I upload the sketch through my Arduino Duemilanove board ( without the AT mega chip ), and within second the sketch uploaded to the board smoothly. No error at all. So, can anyone help me to solve this problem ?

msuzuki777 says:

Mar 10, 2011. 11:57 AM REPLY I've seen similar problems with some of my 'Arduinos'. The problem I had was intermittent connections on the serial connectors. If I just wiggled my USBBUB it would work okay. For this situation, make sure you also have a ground from your breakout board. Another possible problem is that Tx and Rx may be reversed. Different authors and vendors will label the Tx and Rx differently. The confusion is that a Tx (transmit) from one device say the Atmega is connected to the Rx of the other device say the FTDI. And vice versa. Also, some Arduinos have DTR connected to the the Atmega Reset pin, but the newer Bootloader has RTS connected to the Reset through a capacitor. I am guessing that if you don't have anything connected to the Reset pin than it should load correctly but you may have to push reset to start the program. Another thing to remember is with the Arduino software you may have to select the correct com port. Right now I have two Arduinos connected to my computer so I have to make sure I'm using the right one. Good luck, L.O.G.

Foxtrot70 says:
I have the same problem. The chip I am using is the AT328 with UNO preloaded and I get the same error msg.

Feb 1, 2011. 9:51 AM REPLY

AEAM says:

Mar 27, 2010. 11:14 AM REPLY works great with an ATMega168 ... I would really like to see an instructable that shows us how to use a simple rs232 cable and an rs232 chip setup instead of the expensive ftdi cable. that would be useful when we're beyond the prototyping phase and maybe want to do an inexpensive permanent setup with a serial comm option (ambient light based on twitter feed or server monitoring setup) I also added a couple of LED's to tx/rx lines just to see the activity during sketch upload.

msuzuki777 says:

Sep 3, 2010. 12:51 PM REPLY Modern Device and Wulfden have a nice little RS-232 to TTL board, the P4 http://www.moderndevice.com/products/p4 For the DIYer the schematics are also available. It's basically one IC and a bunch of resistors and capacitors and on zener diode. Lazy Old Geek

espert92 says:

Mar 10, 2011. 2:42 AM REPLY how do you use this. buy a usb-to-rs232 then use this to convert to TTL? then connect rx and tx to the breadboard setup?

msuzuki777 says:

Mar 10, 2011. 10:37 AM REPLY The Wulfden website is a little confusing but the P4 will not work with USB. It will work with RS-232 serial ports. I've never bought one as none of my current computers have an RS-232 serial port. To use a P4 you do connect the Rx and Tx to the breadboard but you also need a ground and 5V. Serial ports do not provide 5V so it must be supplied external such as from the 7805 on this breadboard. Lazy Old Geek

ArduinoFun says:
Sweet!

Apr 2, 2010. 11:09 AM REPLY

espert92 says:

Mar 6, 2011. 12:42 AM REPLY how exactly do you use the usb-to-serial cable with the setup? my computer recognizes the new COM port both under linux and windows, but it cannot communicate with the actual arduino setup.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-Arduino/

robonerd says:

Feb 8, 2011. 6:29 AM REPLY I know this post is from a ways back, but what program did you use to draw this design? Do you know of any free programs I can use to come up with something similar? Thanks for any help.

ardebot123 says:
i also have LEDS and wires.

Jan 29, 2011. 3:39 AM REPLY

ardebot123 says:
How much would this cost since i have resistors, capacitors, 5v regulator, and breadboard already?

Jan 29, 2011. 3:36 AM REPLY

Abaud4 says:

Dec 19, 2010. 11:27 AM REPLY I'm not sure whats going on what my setup. I've followed the wiring exactly but not getting my LED to flash and my 5V regulator is getting REALLY hot. Can anyone help? Dec 12, 2010. 1:10 AM REPLY

shiv.ram says:
hey...no one has asked about the bootloading thing.... Its Important....

thomasofacton says:

Nov 18, 2010. 4:35 PM REPLY Nice job but i can't seem to get to www.ArduinoFun.com, Every other site you listed works fine. Oh for parts use digikey or mouser most of the time they are cheaper then other people

canon1200 says:

Aug 9, 2010. 8:22 AM REPLY In my place they don't sell the ATmega328 or 168. Now I have a ATmega32-16PU and I have no idea what to do with it. It has 40 pins, in compare to the ATmega328, which has 28 pins. Could anyone tell me how to connect the pins? Thank you very much

sjbotha says:
You mention a 3.3V FTDI board. Will a 5V FTDI board work? Would make sense since the regulator is providing 5V.

Jun 28, 2010. 9:56 AM REPLY

148wmcquiston says:
Is there a DIY option to the programming cable?

Oct 23, 2009. 5:53 AM REPLY

ArduinoFun says:
check out this DIY option. http://www.uchobby.com/index.php/2009/10/04/diy-usb-to-serial-cable-for-3/ DIY USB to Serial Cable For $3!

Apr 2, 2010. 11:12 AM REPLY

osgeld says:

Oct 23, 2009. 5:45 PM REPLY the programmer interface happens tru the chips (ttl) serial port, so if you want usb what you really want is a chip that converts usb to ttl level serial (search ftdi) Thats going to be a bit of a pain to DIY, and the cost / fustration of the submicro surface mount parts its easy to just nab a board (modern devices sells their version of it for like 12 bucks) if your computer has a real serial port, then your in DIY heaven, the basics is to convert the pc's +- 12 volt to 0-5 volt ttl serial, you can do this (albeit at lower speeds) with a handful of discrete components, or use ic's (such as the max232 ect) www.scienceprog.com/alternatives-of-max232-in-low-budget-projects/

ArduinoFun says:

Oct 23, 2009. 6:50 AM REPLY I haven't found one, I have been looking also. You could build the SparkFun breakout board onto a protoboard with a few parts. They have a schematic at: http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/DevTools/Arduino/FTDI%20Basic.pdf

Mr.Fuzz says:
can you do run the arduino off the breadboard?

Apr 1, 2010. 9:04 PM REPLY

Mr.Fuzz says:
sorry can you run the arduino off the breadboard with it programmed and everything?

Apr 2, 2010. 8:21 AM REPLY

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-Arduino/

ArduinoFun says:
Yes, once you have it built you can program it to do what you want and keep it all on the breadboard.

Apr 2, 2010. 11:08 AM REPLY

ander says:
Sorry---what do you actually do with this after you make it? Or does it just flash some lights?

Oct 21, 2009. 3:50 AM REPLY

greenbean says:

Mar 29, 2010. 9:51 PM REPLY There are books on how to to everything from "flashing" your lights, automate anything/everything in you home, to creating a rocket avionics system(for real model rocket hobbyists). An Arduino is just a microcontroller circuit. Oct 21, 2009. 5:35 AM REPLY

ArduinoFun says:
Ander, you can do a lot more than flash lights. Check out this Solar Tracking project I am working on currently. http://arduinofun.com/blog/2009/10/21/arduino-solar-tracker/ If you do a search on Instructables for "Arduino", you will find all sorts of interesting ideas.

shad0w88 says:

Feb 19, 2010. 3:47 PM REPLY I'm assuming you're using an ATMEGA168 with the bootloader pre-installed.. What option do I have if I can't get a pre-installed ATMEGA and a TTL-232R(or any of the options you mentioned)?.. I'd really like to do this instructable but i can't get the parts mentioned in my country :( Oct 22, 2009. 1:07 PM REPLY Very Nice Instructable!! I am looking into trying to make a rf module from a arduino or pic but more research is needed on how the modules synchronize with each other. My end goal is to be able to make a rf receiver using only one chip.

PyromaniacDaniel says:

ArduinoFun says:

Oct 22, 2009. 3:04 PM REPLY PyromaniacDaniel, You can hook a Parallax RFID up to Arduino. This is my Flickr photo showing a project I did awhile back. http://www.flickr.com/photos/34908673@N00/3289110948/sizes/l/in/set-72157613805579303/ You will hook up the pins as: Arduino GND to RFID GND, Arduino TX to RFID SOUT, Arduino Digital 2 to RFID /Enable and Arduino 5v to RFID VCC.

PyromaniacDaniel says:

Oct 27, 2009. 11:04 PM REPLY Cool. I was talking more of a radio control rather then RFID however I have some RFID plans too like remote enrty into and starting my car with a RFID in my watch. I have learned that for the radio control the radio frequency is faster then the processor so you need a dedicated chip or module. However I have found a chip that has a RF module and AVR all on one chip. where AVR is the underlying chip for the Arduino boot program.

ArduinoFun says:
Whats the chip? I must have misread your post the day I replied. I see now that you didn't say RFID :) Check this out when you get time. http://www.gridconnect.com/wiflygsxkit.html

Oct 28, 2009. 5:15 AM REPLY

I just got one and have started to experiment with it. What I REALLY liked was that it took all but 2 minutes to set up. When I set up the Xbee devices they took a lot longer and was a bit more confusing to me. I am using the recommended terminal program that they suggest in the datasheets. I haven't fully figured it all out yet. Maybe we could co-work a project together sometime. I see you are in school for electronics engineering as well.

PyromaniacDaniel says:

Oct 28, 2009. 8:44 PM REPLY Theres the ATA6603NPLQW that is the one described above and there is the SX1282 which has a RISC CPU and might be able to run the arduino software?? not sure? I need to more about how AVR, Arduino, and PIC work to be sure. I have only just got my feet wet. I am taking Digital Systems and am learning assembly code and the X86 embeded system. We also use the FPGA Cyclone II from Altera on a DE2 board for my Digital Logic class. But I have not delt with the direct to chip programing or microcontrollers. Still in the research phase as to whether to go avr or pic and what the architechure of each is.

ArduinoFun says:

Oct 29, 2009. 3:01 AM REPLY I am taking Digital Systems also. Physics however is killing me right now. I am looking forward to the microprocessors class, havent had it yet either. I have been getting more and more people interested in Arduino at school. We have a class called Capstone, where you work on one project the entire class. You work in small groups and of the groups did a Arduino based postal mail tracking project. It was kind of cool because they had referenced my blog and didn't realize I went to school with them. I can't wait to take that class also.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-Arduino/

PyromaniacDaniel says:
I have the same capstone type class and this semester I am taking the Intro to Microprocessors class. What school do you go to and what degree and year are you? I go to University of North Texas and am a Junior in Electrical Engineering Technology.

Feb 15, 2010. 3:11 PM REPLY

mzaouar says:
i have bought a tact switch but it has 2 pins on the bottom, it's all i need right? and i didnt really get the part about how to program the duino, how can i connect a serial cable and the ATMEGA together?

Feb 4, 2010. 6:27 AM REPLY

sayre315 says:
will this do basically everything an Arduino will do?

Jan 29, 2010. 4:38 PM REPLY

ArduinoFun says:
Yes

Jan 30, 2010. 5:23 AM REPLY

EviLPyRo666 says:
Can all the parts to DIY build an arduino be bought at radioshack? im trying to put this together today and start playing with it

Dec 6, 2009. 7:54 AM REPLY

ArduinoFun says:

Dec 6, 2009. 8:34 AM REPLY unfortunately Radioshack doesn't carry all the parts. You would be able to pick up some of the items like the 7805, LED, wire, capacitors, but they wont have the ATmega chip or crystal.

DemonSpawn says:

Nov 12, 2009. 4:50 AM REPLY Would this secematic work with a ATMEGA328P? As i have an arduino but am looking to use it for more than one thing at a time and some need to be perminantly placed in my devices. so i want to program the mp with the arduino and then transferr it onto a another board ie this board you designed.

ArduinoFun says:
yes you can use ATmega328.

Nov 12, 2009. 5:06 AM REPLY

psuhas says:
I am sorry, you are correct. Please ignore my comment. My apologies.

Oct 29, 2009. 9:18 AM REPLY

psuhas says:

Oct 22, 2009. 7:51 AM REPLY I am not sure if Reset switch connections are complete. You will a pull up resistor of about 10K which will keep RESET pin HIGH

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-Arduino/