Seams and Stitches A seam is defined as a line over which two or more fabrics are superimposed over each

other. A seam may also contain the row or rows of stitching threads used to superimpose the fabrics. A stitch is how an interlacing threads move over and between the two or more superimposed fabrics, joining them. Stitch is also applied at the edges of the fabric to avoid unraveling of ends.

Submitted by Kundan Ganvir Roll no. M/MFM/12/15 MFM 2nd Semester

Seams and Stitches

-Types and Classification

Seams- Classification
Super-imposed seams
Page no. 1

Flat seams
Page no. 4

Lapped seams
Page no. 2

Decorative seams
Page no. 5

Bound seams
Page no. 3

Edge neatening seams

Page no. 6

Super-Imposed Seams
Definition: A category of seams in which two or more piles of fabric are overlaid, one on the top of other with raw edges aligned and sewn together at the designated distance from the raw edges, with one or more rows of stitch.

Super imposed seam on denim sides

Applications: Side seams of skirt, in seams of jeans, dress stacks, finishing belt ends, attaching elastic to waistline, ends of waist bands on jeans, collars or cuffs, seamed and stitched.

Super imposed seam on shirt sides

Lapped Seams
Definition: A category of seams in which two or more piles of fabric are overlapped with raw edges exposed or the seam allowance is folded under and stitched with one or more rows of stitching.

Lapped seam with single stitch line

Applications: Main seaming of denim jackets, jeans, and overalls. Fabrics that will not ravel, unlined garments, side seams of shirts, joining lace to another fabric, attaching patch pockets, decorative finish

Lapped seam with double stitch line

Bound Seam
Definition: A bound seam class is formed by sewing one piece of fabric or binding as it encompasses the edge of one or more pieces of fabric.

Bound seam with single stitch line

Applications: Finishing necklines, sleeves hems, inside waistbands of trousers and pants, finishing seams on unlined jackets and coats, adding interest as a design or decorative detail, finishing raw edges, continuing the motif design of lace.

Bound seam at neck line

Flat Seam
Definition: A flat seam is constructed by having two pieces of fabric meet precisely at their edges. A cover stitch is used to sew the two pieces of fabric together. This stitch has multiple needles and creates a stitch perpendicular to the seam line.

Flat seam with single stitch line

Applications: Close fitting garments where the seam allowance may put pressure on the body, high-stretch fabrics, athletic apparel, shape wear, undergarments, and swimwear.

Flat seam on baseball ball

Decorative Seam
Definition: This seam is made using machines with zigzag capability. The zigzag stitch length (coverage) must be adjusted to accommodate and prevent fabric from raveling. The more the fabric ravels, the closer together the stitches need to be (tighter or shorter stitch length).

Ornamental seam with beads between fabrics

Applications: Adding a design detail, cording, piping, tucking, welting, box or inverted pleating, decorative stitching, etc.

Decorative seam on hand bags

Edge Neatening Seam

Definition:
A category of seam constructed with one or two plies of fabric used to finish the edge of a garment or item. There are three finishing types within the classification. 1. Secures a folded edge to the shell fabric by stitching, either on the face or back. 2. Stitching is used at the edge or to cover the raw edges, and may or may not be folded. 3. Applies a binding on a single ply of a seam allowance to finish raw edges.

Edge finishing on raw edges of trousers

Applications: Bottom and side hems of shirts, trousers, raw edges of apparels, etc.
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Edge neatening seam on handkerchief

Stitches- Classification
Class 100 Chain Stitches
Page no. 8

Class 400 Multi Thread Chain Stitches

Page no. 11

Class 200 Hand Stitches

Page no. 9

Class 500 Over Edge Stitches

Page no. 12

Class 300 Lock Stitches

Page no. 10

Class 600 Covering Chain Stitches

Page no. 13

Class 100- Chain Stitches

Chain stitches are produced by one or more needle threads and are characterized by interloping. One needle thread is passed through the fabric, form needle loop and is secured by the next loop formed by the same thread. Chain stitch is elastic and thicker than lockstitch and can easily be ravelled, Particular care is required to prevent runback from the last stitch, Used for temporary stitching or for Blind stitching Formed with one thread and a curved needle which passes from left to right, entering and exiting from same side of material carrying a needle thread which is intercepted by a blind looper.

Type 101Formed with only one thread introduced from one side of material only.

Type 103-

Applications: Hemming, Belt Loops, Padding Operations & Felling. Types of Chain Stitches: Type 101, 103 and 104

Class 200- Hand Stitches

This type is originated from hand stitches. It is produced from a single thread. This thread is passed through the fabric from one side to another and the stitch is secured by the single line of thread passing in and out of the garment.

Types of Hand Stitches:

Running Basting: Temporary and decorative purposes.

Back stitch: Used whenever strength is important.

Applications: Stitching of costly dresses, jackets, sample garments, etc

Diagonal Basting: Useful for slippery fabrics.

Buttonhole stitch: Decorative of functional depending on closeness of stitch.

Class 300- Lock Stitches

Type 301This type of stitches is produced with two or more groups of threads. Here the two threads are joined by interlacing. Loops of one group are passed through the material and are secured by the thread of second group. One group is referred as needle thread and other as bobbin thread. This stitch has enough strength and same appearance on both sides. Two threads, one needle and other bobbin thread. Loop of needle thread passes through material and interlaced with bobbin thread.

Type 304The construction is similar to type 301, but the needle bar moves as the material is fed giving a zigzag stitch.

Applications: Underwear, most types of apparels, decorative purposes. Types of Lock Stitches: Type 301, 304, 308 and 309

Type 308Double step zigzag lockstitch.

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Class 400-Multi thread chain stitch

This class is formed with two or more groups of threads. Loops of one group of thread are passed through the material and are secured by interlacing and interloping with loops of another group. Here on group is called needle thread and another group looper thread. It has an appearance of lock stitch on the top but has a double chain effect formed by a looper thread on the under-side.

Type 401Loops of needle thread are passed through materials and interlaced with loops of bobbin thread. These interloping are drawn up against underside of material.

Type 402Zigzag chain stitch, construction is same as type 401, but needle bed moves as material is fed.

Applications: Used for setting elastic in waist bands, decorative stitching on belts. Types of Multi thread chain stitches: Type 401, 404 and 406. Type 406Two needle threads interlace with one bobbin tread, which are then drawn up

underside of material.
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Class 500-Over-edge chain stitch

The stitch type in this class is formed with one or more groups of threads. Here at least one group of thread passes around the edge of material. So no thread from the fabric can come out. The most frequently used stitch of this type have one or two needle threads and one or two looper threads and thus forms a narrow band of stitching along the edge of the fabric.

Type 503Two threads, needle thread passes through material and is brought to edge where it is interlaced with bobbin threads. Edge of fabric is sealed.

Type 504Three threads, one needle and two lower bobbin threads. Needle thread interloops with one bobbin thread, then the first bobbin thread loop is interlaced with second bobbin thread.

Applications: Edge neatening of knitted fabrics, where extensibility of stitches in important. Polo tees, sports wear, dance wear garments. Types of Over Edge chain Stitches: Type 503, 504, 512.

Type 504Four thread over edge chain stitch.

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Class 600-Over-edge chain stitch

This type of stitches is generally produced with three groups of threads. Threads of two groups can be seen from either side. The first group of thread is called needle thread, second is called top cover thread and the third is called bottom cover thread. The stitches of this class are very complex and up to 9 threads can be used in producing these stitches.

Type 602Formed with four threads, two needle threads, one bobbin and one cover threads. Needle threads are passed through loops of covering threads on material surface and interlace with bobbin thread at underside of material.

Type 605Five threads, three needle, one covering and one bobbin threads. Construction is same as type 602.

Applications: Knits, Lingerie, binding elastics, decoration, etc. Types of Over-Edge Chain Stitches: Type 602, 605, 607

Type 607Six threads, four needle threads, one covering thread and one bobbin thread. Construction is

same as 602 and 605.

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