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TECHNIQUES OF DYEING COIR MATERIALS by K.G.Mohanan, P.C.Antonel Vaz, J.Sunilduth, A.Radhakrishnan, V.A.Sebastian and U.S.Sarma, Proceedings of the International workshop on Wet processing of Coir 8-9, December 1997 Abstract Dyeing of coir fibre/yarn is essential for improving the marketability of coir products and satisfying the requirements of consumers. A literature and industrial survey had been conducted to ascertain the dyestuffs/chemicals and processes used for colouring coir materials and comparative cost involved for dyeing of coir. The fastness characteristics of different classes of dyestuffs used for dyeing of coir materials were analysed and chemicals marketed by different firms were examined for their suitability in the dyeing of coir. The synthetic, natural and ecofriendly dyestuffs were identified and dyeing experiments were carried out for assessing their suitability to coir. Introduction A dyestuff is most commonly an organic compound which can be used to impart colour to a substance. The literature survey reveals that a wide range of dyes capable of yielding bright shades of good to excellent fastness are available for the dyeing of textiles. However, quite a large number of such dyes are not useful for dyeing coir, for some of them require special pretreatments of the material before the dye is applied or they are costly from the point of view of the coir industry. Dyes are applied to coir materials by two distinct processes, dyeing and printing of which the former is extensively used. In dyeing, the fibre absorbs the dye from the aqueous solution or dispersion and is more or less uniformly coloured. The uniformity of dyeing (level dyeing) depends upon the absorptive power of coir fibre, the nature of the dye and condition of dyeing. The dyed shade usually must be matched against a sample and the fastness of the dyeing (ie. the resistance of the shade to the action of light, water rubbing etc.) must conform to the specified requirement of the consumer. In the attempts to identify dyes/chemicals suitable for achieving better fastness properties, penetration and brilliant shade with less cost revealed that the most commonly used dyestuffs for coir materials belong to the classes of Basic, Acid and Direct dyes. These dyes are applied to the materials from their solution in water with the aid of chemicals like acetic acid, sulphuric acid formic acid, common salt etc. to facilitate the transfer of dyes from the dye bath to the fibre substrate under appropriate conditions of temperature for specified periods depending on the dyestuff that is being used. The basic dyes have high tinctorial value and affinity to coir but are fugitive to light and rubbing. The acid dyes have better fastness to light but of less brightness that basic dyes. Direct dyes find use in producing shades having fastness properties better than acid dyes but they produce dull shades and require longer processing time. The use of imported dyes is limited in coir Industry. INDUSTRIAL SURVEY The survey confirmed that the major quantity of dyeing of coir fibre/yarn is done in the small scale sector using conventional process. With a view to improve the quality of dyed material, modern dyeing methods are also adopted by the industry. The industry adopts the following methods for dyeing 1. Conventional method of dyeing coir 2. Improved method of dyeing coir 3. Mechanised method of dyeing coir CONVENTIONAL METHOD OF DYEING COIR In the conventional method, the dyeing is carried out in copper or alminium/Indalium or G.I dye vat of 1.2 M dia and 0.75 height placed on hearth made out of country bricks, fired from below using country wood. The dye vat is sufficient to process 60 kg.of coir yarn or 30 kg.of coir fibre with a material to liquor ratio of 1:12 for coir yarn and 1:20 for coir fibre. After filling with required quantity of water, it is heated from below till the required temperature is reached. The required quantity of dyestuffs (according to the percentage of shade) and chemicals are added to the dye bath after making into a paste. The dye bath is stirred well and the material is entered and turned manually at frequent intervals for level dyeing. At the end of dyeing the material is taken out washed in cold water and dried under shade. IMPROVED METHOD OF DYEING COIR The improved method of dyeing process is carried out by highly skilled 'Moopans'in the industry using dye vats made or stainless steel and fitted with drinage valve for proper draining or dye effluents. The vats are fixed on hearths made of fire bricks with flue pipes for efficient air draught for maximum utilisation of the heat energy. The dyes are taken as per recipes formulated by CCRI which is available on the shade cards. The quality of dyeing is improved compared to the small scale sector. MECHANISED SYSTEM OF DYEING To get the best desired result, coir yarn is dyed in the mechanised system of dyeing, comprising of dye vats with forced circulation of the dye liquor in two directions on uniformly arranged coir yarn for uniform level dyeing. The temperature is controlled as per the requirement by regulating the flow of heating system. After the dyeing operation, hydro-extractors are used to drive out the major part of the machanically held up water and finally these materials are dried on the endless conveyor drier, for efficient drying. This system of dyeing helps to improve the penetration, shade consistency, uniform dyeing on coir fibre/yarn by the action of temperature, efficient & forced circulation of dye liquor and period of dyeing. This method help to dye large quantities of material at a time avoiding shade variations compared to the other two processes. The comparative cost for dyeing using standard receipes for five common solid colours in conventional improved and mechanised system of dyeings are furnished below as Table I
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Table - I : Cost aspects of dyeing in different method Sl NO 3 Shade Coomasse red-PG C.Iacid red 85 %shade -do-do-do-do-do-do-do-do-do60 60 2 3 1 3
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TABLE IV CHARACTERISTICS OF DYED COIR MATERIALS USING DIRECT DYES 1 2 3 Direct fast scarlet SEC.I Direct Red- 23 Direct fast yellow 3 C.I Direct catachine 77 New C.i.Direct brown 33 1.00Acid/ Formic 1.00 1.00 Sulphuric1-1.5 hrs. -do-do90-95oc -do-domoderate -do-domoderate -do-do70 60 60 3 2 2 3 3 3
TABLE V CHARACTERISTICS OF DYED COIR MATERIALS USING REACTIVE DYES 1 2 3 Procion brill red M.5B Procion yellow M3R Procion turquoise MGN 2.00 2.00 2.00 C.Salt Soda ash -do-doCold 2 hours -do-doPoor -do-doAverate -do-do40 40 40 4 4 3.4 5 5 5
The fastness properties of dyed coir materials witch as water fastness, light fastness and rubbing fastness, are to be determined in respect of each dyestuff belonging to the different classes. A number of dyestuffs belonging to basic, acid and direct classes were used to for colouring coir materials such as retted coir fibre, green husks fibre, green husk treated with coirret, yarn from retted and brown coir fibre. The details of the shades developed with receipe are furnished as Annexure-1I The yarn produced from brown fibre was dyed in different shades using dyestuffs such as Auramine, Rhodamine B 500, Magenta, Malachite green, Bismark brown, Chrysodine, Methyle violet at different concentrations of 0.2%, 0.25% and 0.3%. It was observed that the shades with 0.25% of the basic dyes showed a satisfactory coverage on the fibre. In order to compare the brightness of shade, pick up light and water fastness, green husk fibre treated with coirret and retted coir fibre were dyed using Acid orange II, Rhodamine B 500, Direct green B and Malachite green for developing different shades. 4 shades evolved from acid and 2 shades from direct classes of dyestuffs which is safe to the environment was taken on coir yarn spun from retted fibre using receipe. Detailed in Table VI TABLE V I : ECOFRIENDLY SHADES EVOLVED FOR COIR MATERIALS No 1 Class Acid class Name of shade TOKYO Name of the Dyestuff Acid orange II Sulphuric acid Azo fast LRW 2 Acid class FLAX FLOWER Acid brill blue Acid violet Sulphuric acid Azofast LRW 3 Acid class LOVE BIRD Acid milling yelow G Patent blue AS Azo fast IRW 4 Acid class CHROME LEMON Acid milling yellow G Patent blue AS Sulphuric acid Azofast LRW % of shade 0.50 1.00 1.00 0.113 0.066 1.00 1.00 0.70 0.02 1.00 0.75 0.0016 1.00 1.00
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5 Direct Class CLOUB BROWN Direct brown MR Direct black E Direct fast violet BI Azofast IRW Common salt 0.20 0.20 0.05 1.00 1.00
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CONCLUSION 1. The mechanised system of dyeing is most effective as it helps to achieve shade consistency, between penetration of dyes and byulk treatment of odye effluent 2. The list of banned carcinogenic dyes and chemicals were identified and circulated among the trade. 3. It is desirable to assess fastness properties of each dyestuff belonging to different classes and their suitability to coir 4. For improved appearance and dye up-take, it would be preferable to wet out the material in cold water. 5. Strict adherance to the methods of dyeing including the optimum use of chemicals, temp and duration of treatment is necessary to obtain dyeing of satisfactory standards. 6. Only those 'safe' dyes that have high rating of light fastness should be taken for use. 7. Light bleaching of the material prior to dyeing yield pastel shades of good brightness. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT The authors place it on record their sincere thanks to FAO/CFC for providing fund to conduct the studies and also grateful to the Coir Board for providing facilities for carrying out the investigations and for their kind permission to publish this paper, BIBLIOGRA PHY 1. Reactive dyes toxicity, V.A.Shenai, Chemical Weekly, May 9, 1995 P 151 2. Toxicity of dyes oand Intermediates, V.A.Shenai, Chemical Weekly, March 28, 1995 3. Dyestuff Industries in a changing Era-Chalenges and oppurtunities, R.A.Mashelkar and T.Ravindran, Chemical Weekly July 25 1995 P 147-151 4. "German Ban" An Eco Friendly Prescription for the coir Industry, U.S.Sarma Coir News Vol-24, Book5, May 1995,P 25-37 5.Treating of sisal and hard fibre, H.A.Elkin and W.A.S.White, C.A.Vol 36, 1942 P 5029-5030 6.Dyeing of jute and hesian fabrics, J.W.Brown, C.A.Vol.37, 1943, P 1043-1044 7. Coir dyeing, K.K.Kylas, C.A.Vol.39,1945 P.623-624 8. Absorption of basic dyes on jute, P.B.Sarkar, et-al, C.A.Vol 40, 1946, P 4857- 4788. 9. Action of light upon Jute,H.J.Callow,C.A.Vol.41, 1947,P 4651-4652 10. Coir observation and it dying characteristics, G.N.Prabhu, Coir, Vol 5, 1961,3, P.25-27 11. Staining jute by different acid and role of lignin BC.Chatterjee ann S.N.Bose, C.A.Vol.68,1968,P 201-203 12. Dyeing Sisal and other plant fibre, AJ Canning and C.G.Jarman, G 177 Nov.1983, TDRI, London. 13. Black dyes for coir fibre, A.J.Canning and C.G.Jarman, 1, 40 1979, TDRI, London 14. Dyeing leaves and straws, A.J.Canning and C.G.Jarman G. 178 1983 TDRI, London 15. Dyeing Sisal and other plant fibre, A.J.Canning and C.G.Jarman, G.178,1983 TDRI, London. 16. Dyeing Studies at elevated temperatures between 200 and 300 deg.F.Heat,G..I Reyer et.al.C.A. Vol 43, 1949, P 1904-1905 17. Dyeing of Textile fibre at high temperature, L.Drijvers Teintex C.A.Vol 46, 1952, P.6865-9892
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18. Application of dyes to textile fibres at high temperature, Charles. L.Zimmerman C.A.Vol.48,1954, P 627-634 19. Dyeing cellulose fibre at a temperature higher than 100 deg.cent. J.G.S. Pawelstia,C.A..vol 60, 1964, P 3461-7420 20.Treating of jute for improved light fastness. Sengupta et.al.CA Vol 72, 1970, 676223 21. Action of light on jute, W.G. Macmillan et.al. J.Text. Inst. 45 1954, P 700-702 22. Dyeing on sisal and other plant fibres, A hand book for craft instructors, A.J.Canning & C.G.Jarman. G 176, 1983, TDRI, London 23. Light fastness of dyeing, the state of direct dyes in cellulose, Wanshikha Ta Hanhua Hsueh Hui-chit, C.A.Vol.60, 1964, P 3460. 24. High light fastness of dyes, C.H.Giles and K.V.Datya, J.App ;.Chem, C,.A..Vol.60, 1964, P 473 25. Xenon 450, an apparatus for rapid illumination and weathering, Kockott, Dieter Klippert, C.A.Vol.70, 1969, P.1692, 479 zq. 26. Colour change due to flart abrasion (Frosting) Screen method AATCC technical manual 1963. 27. Colour fastness to crocking carpets, AATCC Test method 165, 1988AATCC Technical Manual 1993 28. Colour change due to flat abrasion (Frosting) AATCC Test method 120, 1989 Emery mothos, AATCC Manual 1993 29. Silk and wool with god colour fastness to rubbing Sawa, Masad , Yasube, Kazuo, Tapan, C>A>Vol.73, 1970 P 21136. 30. Technology of Textile Proscessing V.A.Shenai (UDCT, Mumbai, India)Textile dyer Printer, C.A. Vol.73,1970,P67529. 31. High Temperature Dyeing .P.K.Agrawal. Silk & Rayoon Industries . India C.A.Vol.73, 1970. P 83662. 32. Coir Dyeing K.Kylash, C.A. Vop.139,1945.P1261 33. Dyeing of Jute Hessuab Favbric A.W.Brown, Text, Journal Australia,. XC.A.Vol.37. 1969, P1043-1044. 34. Silk Rayon Industry in India , M.D.Bhavsar, Sasmira, Mumbai India C.A.Vol.71,1969,P113982 35. Mechanised cor dyeing , K.G.Mohanan, Coir News, Vol XXIV No.3 March 15 1995 P9 36. Levelers for Dyeing, Sara P Malik, Belgium, C.A. Vol 61, 1964, P 16472 37. Effect of light on dyeing and dyes, Ludwig, Hoffmann, V.A.Vol 61, 1964, P 12597 38. Dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes. H.T.Lokhande, C.A.Vol.71,1969, P.3699 39. Dyeing of cellulose fibres with reactive dyes, Vonder Eltz, C.A.Vol 74, 1971, P 14147. 40. Basic Dyes in Textile Printing, Kuchnel, C.A.Vol 72, 1970 P.101671 41. Application of textiles auxiliaries, Nirokas. M.V.Chem.Abstr.74, 1971, P.134845 42. Blue colour fading of the ISI light fstness scale in relation to the amount of irradiated light. Presle L F C, Chem 74, 1971 P 49466 43. Dyeing and Printing with fibre reactive dyes. Balland Jean, Chem.Abstr 74, 1971, P 14152 44. Technology of Textile Processing, Shenai. V.A. Chem.Abstr.72, 1970,P,137184 45. Brightness and Uniformity of dyeing from the view point of the dyeing material Fujimoto Nubumasa, Chem.Abstr.73, 1970 P.105258 46. Simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of cellulose fibre by means of indigosol, Goorhuls, Chem.Abstr. 69, 1968 P.11317 47.Singlebath bleaching-dyeing of jute fabric with hydrogen peroxide-direct dyeing combinations. Pandey S.N., Chattopadya A.N, Pan N.C. and Dey A. Indian Journal of fibre & Textile Research Vol.19, March 1994 P.3437
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ANNEXURE-1 DYESTUFFS TO BE USED FOR COLOURING COIR MATERIALS 1. Rhodamine B 500 2. Malachite Green XLS 3. Bismark Brown 4. Magenta powder 5. Chrysodine 6. Basic black SDI 7. Methyle Blue extra 8. Acid Brill Blue BR 9. Acid Turquoise Blue G 10. Acid Red G 11. Acod Pramge 11 12. Acid Red B 13. Acid Coir Scartet AR 14. Acid yellow 5N 15. Acid Red RS 16. Acid Green B 17. Acid Brill Red 3 BN 18. Acid Scarlet 3R 19. Acid Maroon V 20. Acid black G 21. Acid Brown R 22. Acid Violot N 23. Acid Rhodamine BL 24. Acid Coffee brown 25. Direct Gray 26. Direct Yellow 5 GLC 27. Direct gray BL 28. Direct Green G 29. Direct kaki 2B
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30. Direct fast olive RN.Conc 31. Direct green B 32. Direct Catachine 77 New 33. Chrysophenine CH 34. Direct brown MR 35. Direct black E Extra Conc. 36. Direct fast Orange S.E 37. Direct fast Red 5B 38. Direct Sky Blue D 6B 39. Direct yellow SG 40. Direct fast violet BL 41.Nilgrosine XLS 42. Diamond green XLS 43. Texasol Brown TDJ Spl.NB 44. Toxasol Navy Blue AM 45. Procion brill Red M-5B 46. Procion Yellow M-3R 47. Procion Turquoisize M-GN 48. Procion Brill Magenta MB 49. Procion Yellow MGR 50. Procion Brill Blue M GX 51. Procion Brill Orange MZR 52. Procion Brill Red M-8B 53. Procion Blue M- 4GD 54. Procion Navy Blue M-3R ANNEXURE- I I DYESTUFFS USED WITH CONCENTRATIONS FOR DEVELOPING DIFFERENT SHADES ON COIR MATERIALS RETTED COIR FIBRE Sl..No. 1 Shade Deep Blue Dyestuffs used Acid Brill Blue BR Acid violet Sulphuric acid 2 Brown Direct Catachine 77 New Common Salt 3 Chocolate Direct Brown MR Percentage 1.00 1.50 2.00 2.00 10.0 1.50
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Direct black E Common Salt 4 Yellow Chrysophine CH Common Salt 5 Green Malachite Green XLS Auramine OA Acetid Acid 6 Deep Brown Direct Catachine 77New Direct brown MR Common Salt 7 8 Acid Brill Blue BR Nigrosine XLS Acid Milling Red G Acid Milling yellow Nigrosine XLS 9 Acid Milling Yellow Patent Blue ASD Conc. Nigrosine XLS 10 Acid Brill Blue BR Nigrosine XLS 11 Acid Turquoise Blue Acid Brill Blue 12 Nigrosine XLS Acid Brill Blue BR 13 Acid Turquise Blue G Acid Brill Blue BR 14 Acid Brill Blue BR Patent Blue ASD Cone Nigrosine XLS 15 Acid Milling yellow Acid Turquoise Blue G Nigrosine XLS 16 Acid Brill blue BR Nigrosine XLS 17 18 Direct yellow SGL Direct fast Orange SE Direct fast violet 4BL 19 Chrysophenine CH Direct fast Orange SE 20 Direct fast red 5B Direct fast Orange SE Direct fast Violet 4BL Aso fast LRW 21 Direct fast orange SE Direct fast Red 5B 22 Direct green B Direct Sky Blue D 6B Chysophinine CH 23 Direct Green B Direct Sky Blue D 6B 24 Direct Green B Chrysophenine CH 25 26 Direct Fast Red 5 B Direct fast blue FFS Direct Sky Blue D 6B 0.50 10.0 2.50 10.0 0.40 0.10 2.00 2.00 0.50 10.0 0.20 0.10 1.50 1.50 0.01 0.05 0.05 0.03 0.50 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.20 0.02 0.60 0.40 0.40 0.15 0.15 0.40 0.25 0.05 0.70 0.20 0.30 0.18 0.015 0.15 0.02 0.05 0.025 0.01 1.00 0.50 0.50 1.00 0.30 0.15 1.00 0.50 0.05 0.03 1.00 0.15 0.15
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27 Direct Catachine 77 New Direct Brown MR 28 Chrysophenine CH Direct fast orange SE COIR YARN (Natural) Sl..No. 1 Shade Lido Dyestuffs used Mechylene Blue 2B Methyl Violet 2 B 2 Ultramarine Methylene Blue 2B Methyl Violet 3 Indian Yellow Auramine OA Chrysodine 7 4 5 6 English Vermition Citrine Bronze green Acid Milling red G Auramine OA Direct fast olive RN con. Direct black E 7 8 9 Light Chrome Indian Orange Strawberry Direct Yellow 5 GL Acid Orange II Rhodamine B 500 Chrysodine 7(on bleached yarn YARN FROM BROWN COIR Sl..No. 1 2 3 4 Shade Dyestuffs used Acid Brill Blue BR Nigrosine XLS Patent Blue AS Acid Orange II Acid Yellow 5 Patent Blue Nigrosine XLS 6 7 8 9 Details of the materials used A: Dye stuffs 1. Rhodamine B 500 2. Malachite green XLS 3. Chrysodine G 4. Acid yellow G 5. Acid Green B 6. Coomasse Red PG 7. Direct Catachine 77 new 8. Direct fast Scarlet SE 9. Direct fast yellow 3G 10. Procion Brill Red M-5B 11. Procion yellow M-3R 12. Procion Turquoise M-GN 13. Acid Brill oBlue BR 14. Acid Violet 15. Direct Brown MR 16. Direct Black E 17. Chrysophenine CH 18. Aurammine OA 19. Nigrosine XLS 20. Acid Milling Red G 21. Acid Milling Yellow 22. Patent Blue ASD Con. Acid Orange II Nigrosine XLS Patent Blue AS Acid Orange II Percentage 0.20 0.20 0.50 1.70 0.04 0.05 0.07 1.00 0.50 0.10 0.50 Percentage 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.15 0.15 0.25 0.10 0.20 0.90 0.05 1.10 0.10 0.15 0.30 0.25 0.01 0.30 0.10
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23. Acid Turquoise BlueG 24. Direct yellow 5 GL 25. Direct fast Orange SE 26. Direct fast ciolet 4 BL 27. Direct fast red 5 B 28. Direct green B 29. Direct sky Blue D 6B 30. Direct fast Ble FFS 31. Methylene Blue 2B 32. Methyl Violet 2 B 33. Direct fast Olive RN cone. 34. Acid Orange II B: Chemicals 1. Acetic Acid 2. Sulphuric Acid 3. Formic Acid 4. Common Salt 5. Soda ash 6. Sodium bicarbonate 7. Caustic soda 8. Urea 9. Azofast LRW ANNEXURE-I A: ACID DYES C.I.NAME AMINE RELEASING Acid Black 29 Acid Black 94 Acid Black 209 Acid Black 131 ------30336 Black B/BS Black B/BV Black FC Black GBL/BGL Gray BGL Acid Black 132 ---Black BRI/RBL Nylacid fast Black B Chromoloather fast Black BV Corlacid Black B Irgalan Black GBL Lanasya Black BGL Irgalan Black RBI Lanasyn Black BRL Acid Orange 45 22195 Orange R Acid Orange R Milling Orange R Fast Orange R Acid Red 4 14710 Eosine G.Gc Pink B, Scarlet B/BL Red E Anll Acid Fast Pink B Anil Acid Scarlet B Erlo Scartet B Atul Acid Pink B Acid iRed 5 14905 Rhodine Gr Red R/RR Acid Red 73 27290 Croceine MOO/38/3BA Scariet DOO/3BC/R Red GR Acid Red 118 Acid Red 150 26660 27190 Cloth Red G2B Cloth Red 2R, No.6 Scarlet Acid Red 264 Acid Red 420 Acid Red 24 16140 18133 Brill Red 3 BL Scarlet Y-LEW Ponceau G RT Poncequ Scarlet Acid Red 85 Acid ioRed 114 22245 23635 Red G Red 2R/RS/BB Atul Acid Milling Red G Coomassie Red 2R Nylomine Red C-2R Sadolan Red RSI Nylosan Red F-RS Milling Red BB Acid Red 115 27200 Red 2B Erlosin Red 2B Erio Red R Azo Rhodine GR Atul Crocoline Scarlet Moo Ensin Red GR C.I.No COMMERCIAL NAME EXAMPLES
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Acid Red 128 24125 Red 3B Bordeaux R Acid 148 Acid Red 158 26665 20530 Red BC Red 3 BL/ER Milling Borodeaux R Atul Acid Milling Red 3B Emiacid clothe Red BC Supranol Red 3 BL Teleon Fast Red ER Acid Red 167 --Red B Polnr Red B Milling Fast Red B Acid Red 265 Rhodine/ Calmine4B Milling Red BL Acid Violet 12 Acid Brown 415 POISONOUS C.I.NAME Acid Orange 156 C.I.No 26501 COMMERCIAL NAME Orange 3 G Orange GL/GNS Acid Orange 165 CARCINOGENIC C.I.NAME Acid Dye C.I.No 16155 COMMERCIAL NAME Ponceau 3R/ 3RN Orange GL/GNS Acid Red 16 Acid Violet 49 16150 42640 Ponceau 2R/RR/RL/FR Violet 38/48/68 Hylosan Orange CGNS Acid Ponceau 2RL Erloslno Violet 38 Acitan Violet S4 BN Acid Violet ALLERGENIC C.I.NAME Acid Violet 17 C.I.No 42650 COMMERCIAL NAME Violet 4B/4BS/R EXAMPLES Acid Brill Milling Violet 4BS Coomassic Violet R Sanolan Brill Violet E 4BNG ANNEXURE-I B : BASIC DYES CARCINOGENIC C.I.NAME Basic Red 9 C.I.No COMMERCIAL NAME Fusine rosandine Magenta N Basic Yellow POISONOUS C.I.NAME Basic blue 3 C.I.No 51004 COMMERCIAL NAME Blue BG/3G Blue Green 5G EXAMPLES Astrazone Blue BG Basacryl Blue Green X-5G Sandocryl Blue B 3G Basic Blue 7 42595 Blue BO Victoria Pure Blue BO Lake Blue BO Basic Blue 81 Basic Red 12 42595 48070 Blue FGA Phloxine G Pink AS Red BG Baosic Violet 16 48013 Violet 3R Red BG/68 Victoria pure blue FGA Astra Pholoxine G Extrn.Brillint. Pink AS 41000 Auramine O EXAMPLES EXAMPLES 28602 Orange 8RE EXAMPLES Sandlolain Orange PGL Hylosan Orange CGNS Aciddol Orange 3 RE 18075 --Red 2B/BB/BBA/A2B Brown S-GL Acid Red A2B 18129 Red BL Sandolan Brilliant Red E-BL
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Astra Violet 3 R Extra Basacry Brill Red BG Sandocryl Red B 6B
Basic Yellow 21
48069
Yellow 6G/ 7G
Astrazon Yellow 7GL1
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Astrazon Yellow 7GL1 AMINE RELEASING C.I.NAME Basic Brown 4 (Solvent Brown12) Vesuvine B Basic Red 42 Basic Red 111 ANNEXURE- I C: DIRECT DYES Name of Company Atul Ariabs Bayer Ciba Dinesh Golden dyes I.C.I Indokem Sandoz Texdyes Brand Name Atul Direct Tezazol Sirus, Supta Chloraline, Cupraling Dinamine Godamine Fast Chlorazol, Durozol Incomine Solar, Pyrazol Texazol, Texirius Red BJ Red EB K 2n BN Astra Vesuivme 8 21010 Bismark brown R Atul Bismarck Brown R C.I.No COMMERCIAL NAME EXAMPLES
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Sandocryl Brill yellow B 6 GL
The Ci names and commercial names are given below. No specific of brand names are given as all dyes areio known by their commercial name C.I.Name AMINE RELEASING Direct Black 29 Direct Black 38 Direct Black 4 Direct Black 154 Direct Black 91 Direct Blue 1 30400 24410 22580 30235 30245 Black Bo Black E/2E/EC/EG/ER/RT Black W/RW/R/RX/D Deep black XA/AXN Copper Black R/RL/RLW Sky blue FB/FFGB Blue GB/FF Direct Blue 10 Direct Blue 14 Direct Blue 15 24340 24850 24400 Blue G/GS/DG Blue 3B/3BX/NB/2BG Sky blue/Pure blue FB Sky Blue A/FF Direct Blue 151 Direct Blue 160 Direct Blue 173 Direct Blue 192 Direct Blue 2 22590 24175 Copper Blue B/BB/A Copper Navy blue R/RLL/RLW Copper blue 3G Dialuminous blue GF Black BT/BH/ABC Navy blue BH Direct Blue 201 Direct Blue 215 Direct Blue 22 Direct Blue 25 24115 24280 24790 Blue BRL Copper blue GR Blue RW/Blue 5G Blue/Brill blue/New blue 5B C.I.No. Chemical Name
Direct Blue 295 Direct Blue 3
23820 23705
Blue 2BNB Asurine 3B Veiolet 20
Direct Blue 35 Direct Blue 6 Direct Red 22 Basic Red 111 ANNEXURE- I C: DIRECT DYES
24145 22610 Basic Red 42
Brill blue 3B/3BN Blue 2B/BB/2B Red BJ Red EB K 2n BN
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Name of Company Atul Ariabs Bayer Ciba Dinesh Golden dyes I.C.I Incomine Sandoz Texdyes Solar, Pyrazol Texazol, Texirius Brand Name Atul Direct Tezazol Sirus, Supta Chloraline, Cupraling Dinamine Godamine Fast Chlorazol, Durozol
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The Ci names and commercial names are given below. No specific of brand names are given as all dyes areio known by their commercial name C.I.Name AMINE RELEASING Direct Black 29 Direct Black 38 Direct Black 4 Direct Black 154 Direct Black 91 TECHNIQUES OF DYEING COIR MATERIALS by K.G.Mohanan, P.C.Antonel Vaz, J.Sunilduth, A.Radhakrishnan, V.A.Sebastian and U.S.Sarma, Proceedings of the International workshop on Wet processing of Coir 8-9, December 1997 ABSTRACT Dyeing of coir fibre/yarn is essential for improving the marketability of coir products and satisfying the requirements of consumers. A literature and industrial survey had been conducted to ascertain the dyestuffs/chemicals and processes used for colouring coir materials and comparative cost involved for dyeing of coir. The fastness characteristics of different classes of dyestuffs used for dyeing of coir materials were analysed and chemicals marketed by different firms were examined for their suitability in the dyeing of coir. The synthetic, natural and ecofriendly dyestuffs were identified and dyeing experiments were carried out for assessing their suitability to coir. INTRODUCTION A dyestuff is most commonly an organic compound which can be used to impart colour to a substance. The literature survey reveals that a wide range of dyes capable of yielding bright shades of good to excellent fastness are available for the dyeing of textiles. However, quite a large number of such dyes are not useful for dyeing coir, for some of them require special pretreatments of the material before the dye is applied or they are costly from the point of view of the coir industry. Dyes are applied to coir materials by two distinct processes, dyeing and printing of which the former is extensively used. In dyeing, the fibre absorbs the dye from the aqueous solution or dispersion and is more or less uniformly coloured. The uniformity of dyeing (level dyeing) depends upon the absorptive power of coir fibre, the nature of the dye and condition of dyeing. The dyed shade usually must be matched aginst a sample and the fastness of the dyeing (ie. the resistance of the shade to the action of light, water rubbing etc.) must conform to the specified requirement of the consumer. In the attempts to identify dyes/chemicals suitable for achieving better fastness properties, penetration and brilliant shade with less cost revealed that the most commonly used dyestuffs for coir materials belong to the classes of Basic, Acid and Direct dyes. These dyes are applied to the materials from their solution in water with the aid of chemicals like acetic acid, sulphuric acid formic acid, common salt etc. to facilitate the transfer of dyes from the dye bath to the fibre substrate under appropriate conditions of temperature for specified periods depending on the dyestuff that is being used. The basic dyes have high tinctorial value and affinity to coir but are fugitive to light and rubbing. The acid dyes have better fastness to light but of less brightness that basic dyes. Direct dyes find use in producing shades having fastness properties better than acid dyes but they produce dull shades and require longer processing time. The use of imported dyes is limited in coir Industry. 22580 30235 30245 Black Bo Black E/2E/EC/EG/ER/RT Black W/RW/R/RX/D Deep black XA/AXN C.I.No. Chemical Name
INDUSTRIAL SURVEY The survey confirmed that the major quantity of dyeing of coir fibre/yarn is done in the small scale sector using conventional process. With a view to improve the quality of dyed material, modern dyeing methods are also adopted by the industry. The industry adopts the following methods for dyeing. 1. Conventional method of dyeing coir 2. Improved method of dyeing coir
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3. Mechanised method of dyeing coir CONVENTIONAL METHOD OF DYEING COIR In the conventional method, the dyeing is carried out in copper or alminium/Indalium or G.I dye vat of 1.2 M dia and 0.75 height placed on hearth made out of country bricks, fired from below using country wood. The dye vat is sufficient to process 60 kg.of coir yarn or 30 kg.of coir fibre with a material to liquor ratio of 1:12 for coir yarn and 1:20 for coir fibre. After filling with required quantity of water, it is heated from below till the required temperature is reached. The required quantity of dyestuffs (according to the percentage of shade) and chemicals are added to the dye bath after making into a paste. The dye bath is stirred well and the material is entered and turned manually at frequent intervals for level dyeing. At the end of dyeing the material is taken out washed in cold water and dried under shade. IMPROVED METHOD OF DYEING COIR The improved method of dyeing process is carried out by highly skilled 'Moopans'in the industry using dye vats made or stainless steel and fitted with drinage valve for proper draining or dye effluents. The vats are fixed on hearths made of fire bricks with flue pipes for efficient air draught for maximum utilisation of the heat energy. The dyes are taken as per recipes formulated by CCRI which is available on the shade cards. The quality of dyeing is improved compared to the small scale sector. MECHANISED SYSTEM OF DYEING To get the best desired result, coir yarn is dyed in the mechanised system of dyeing, comprising of dye vats with forced circulation of the dye liquor in two directions on uniformly arranged coir yarn for uniform level dyeing. The temperature is controlled as per the requirement by regulating the flow of heating system. After the dyeing operation, hydro-extractors are used to drive out the major part of the mechanically held up water and finally these materials are dried on the endless conveyor drier, for efficient drying. This system of dyeing helps to improve the penetration, shade consistency, uniform dyeing on coir fibre/yarn by the action of temperature, efficient & forced circulation of dye liquor and period of dyeing. This method help to dye large quantities of material at a time avoiding shade variations compared to the other two processes. The comparative cost for dyeing using standard receipes for five common solid colours in conventional improved and mechanised system of dyeings are furnished below as Table I Table - I : Cost aspects of dyeing in different method Table - I : Cost aspects of dyeing in different method Sl No Direct Blue 201 Direct Blue 215 Direct Blue 22 Direct Blue 25 Direct Blue 295 Direct Blue 3 Direct Blue 35 Direct Blue 6 Direct Red 22 Direct Red 24 Direct Red 26 Direct Red 28 Direct Red 37 Direct Red 39 Direct Red 40 Direct Red 46 Direct Red 62 Direct Red 67 Direct Red 7 Direct Red 72 Direct Violet 1 Direct Violet 12 Direct Violet 21 Direct Violet 22 Direct Yellow 1 24115 24280 24790 23820 23705 24145 22610 23565 29185 29190 22120 22240 23630 22500 23050 29175 23505 24100 29200 22570 22550 23520 22450 22250 Shade %shade Blue BRL Copper blue GR Blue RW/Blue 5G Blue 2BNB Asurine 3B Brill blue 3B/3BN Blue 2B/BB/2B Red 5B Purpurne 5B Purple B Scarlet 4BA/BAS/4BSL Scarlet 8B/SBS/8BA Congo Red Congo Red 4B/RS Red B Scarlet B/BL Scarlet 3B Rubine B borde Aux extra Red 8B,Purpurlno 8B Orange R/RS/FBR Purpurlono 4B >Cotton Red N Red 10B,Purpurlno 10B Scarlet 4BN/4SW Violet N/MN/NN/R/3R Violet R/O/OC/On Corinth B Violet LN Yellow G Chrysamine G Direct Blue 2 22590 Black BT/BH/ABC Navy blue BH
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Golden yellow N Yellow CT Yellow TG
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Direct Yellow 24 Direct Yellow 48 OTHERS Developer 14 Oxidation Basic 20
22010 23660
76035
Developer B/H/MTD/ Motatolum Phthalogen
Ingrain Blue 2/2
74160
Brill Blue IF3G Brill Blue 3G
ANNEXURE 1 D: LIST OF BANNED AMINES Sl.No 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Banned Amine Amionodiphenyl Boridino Chloro -O- Toluidine Naphthylamine Aminoazotoluene Amino-4- nitortoluene Chlorailine 4 Diaminoanisol 4 Diaminodiphenylmethan 3 Dichlorobenzidine Sl.No 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Banned Amine 3.3 Dimethoxyvenzidine 3.3 Dimethylbenzidine 3.3 Dimelthylebenzidine P.Kresidin 4.4 Methylene-Bis-(2)- Chloraniline) 4.4 Oxydianiline 4.4 thiodianiline O.Tonuidine 2.4 Toluyledindiamine 2.4.5 Trjmethylanialine
ANNEXURE I F: YIELDS OF NATURAL DYES DYE Madder Cochineal Indigo Saffron Annato Carotin Juglone Lac Back SOURCE Rootbark Female Cochineal louse Indigo Plant leaves "Crocus"Plant flower pistil Roucone tree-seed Carrot, ret palm oil, pumking seed Black Walnut hulls Stick-lac CONTENT 1.9% 1.8% 1.5-2.0 % 7.0% 15.0% 0.5% 0.2% 0.5-0.75%
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