THE ITTLE

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rsetBoo._
A WORKBOOK ON PERIOD UNDERWEAR
Bonnie Holt Ambrose
(O 1997 by Bonnie Holt Ambrose
Ali rights reserved under the lntemational and Pan-American Copyright
Conventions. For information address Quite Specific Media Group Ltd.,
7373 Pyramid Place, Hollywood, CA 90046. Printed in Canada.
Email: info@gujtewcificmedja.com
Voice: 323.851.5797
Fax: 323.851.5798
The Utt le Hatmakiog Book and The Ut tle Bodice Book were originally
published by Drama Publishers.
Quite Specific Media Group Ltd. lmprints include:
Drama Publishers
Costume & Fashion Press
EntertainmentPro
By Design Press
Jade Rabbit
OI
ORSET 18
02
PATTERN MAKINGI890,s COI\SE.T
I h ~
FOLLOW THE GRID A80VE ANO TRAN5FER THE
PATTERN PIEC.E5 TO TRU-GRID PELLON OR I " GRID
PAPER. CAREFULLY FOLLOW MEA5UREMEHT5 ANO
DRAW ALL DIREC.TION5 ONTO THE PAI I ERN
PIEC.E5 WITH A FELT PEN. lf A DIFFERENT 51ZE
CORSET 15 DESIRED, 5EE THE C.HART ON PAGE
ELEVEN.
CUT OUT PAT I ERN PIEC.E5 ANO PIN TO C.OTTON
C.ORSET FA8RIC.; THE IDEAL FA8RIC. 15 C.OTTON
C.OUTIL, A DKILL C.LOTH, A SATIN 8ROCADE, OR
CANVAS. TltE C.ORSET WILL NOT 8E LINED,
THEREFORE TIGHTL V WOVEN C.OTTON FA8RIC. IS
5UGGE5TED.
03
PRE- SHRINK C.ANVAS ANO ORILL c.LOTH.
,
PRESS.
ARRANGE PA I I ERN PIEC.ES C.AREFULL V ON FOLOEO
FABRIC.. PATTERN PIEC.ES SHOULD 8E PLAC.ED
THE FA8RIC. GRAIN <AS A80VE). PIN
ANO C.UT OUT. THE REMAINING FA8RIC. 8E
USEO TO C.UT 61AS STRIPS T O FINISH TOP ANO
60TTOM EOGE OF C.ORSET. USE A C.HALK PENC.IL
ANO IOENTIFV ALL C.UT OUT PIEC.ES ON THE
SIOE Of THE f A8RIC. .
PIN C.ORSET PIEC.ES TOGETHER THE
SIOES FAC.ING. LEAVE T HE C.ENTER f RONT ANO
C.ENTER 8AC.K SEAMS OPEN. USING SEAMS
1
MAC.HINE STITC.H C.ORSET PIEC.ES TOGETHER.
THESE SEA.MS 8E FINISHEO
RJ880N STAV C.OVERS. TRIM All SEAMS TO
ANO PRESS.
04
AOO A SATIN RI660N WAIST BANO TO INSIDE OF
C.ORSET TO REDUC.E STRAIN ON THE FABRIC. AT
WAIST UNE.
PIN I Y:r.."' SATIN RI660N IN POSITION AT EAC.H
SEAM. AS R1660N STAV C.OVERS ARE STITC.HED
IN PLAC.E THE RI660N WAIST BANO WILL BE
STITC.HED ALSO.
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CHOOSE A C.OMPLEMENTARV C.OLOR FOR THE
RI660N STAV C.OVERS AS THIS WILL AC.C.ENTUATE
THE WAIST UNE ANO SHAPE OF THE C.ORSET.
THE RI660N WIDTH IS IMPORTANT AS IT MUST
C.OVER THE M ETAL STAV ANO ALLOW FOR
MAC.HINE STITC.HING ON 60TH SIOES lAS SHOWN
os
PLAGE RI860N OVER SEAM, PIN, ANO SEW OOWN
ONE SIDE AS GLOSE TO EDGE OF RI880N AS
POSS18LE. SEW THE OTHER EDGE. CONTINUE
THIS PROGEOURE UNTIL AU SEAMS ARE GOVERED.
USE A GHALK PENGIL TO MARK WHERE THE
REMAINING STAY GOVERS WILL 8 E SEWN. PIN
RI880N STAY GOVERS IN POSITION ANO MAGHINE
STITGH.
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OH THE GOOD SIDE OF FA8RIC. PIN FRONT FAC.ING
TO CENTER FRONT RIGHT SIDE. LAY CL.ASP I "'
DOWN FROM TOP Of CORSE T. USE PENCIL. TO
MARK 80TH SIDES OF EAC.H Cl.ASP. PIN AT EACH
MARK. MACHINE STITC.H 8ET"-'EEN STRAIGHT
PINS. 8ACKSTITCH AT EACH STOPPING POINT.
PRESS OPEN SEAM.
IN OROER TO HIOE M ETAL. CL.ASPS A 8ROCAOE
RI880N CAN 8 E ADOEO. STITCH RI880N OOWN
FRONT Of PRESSED OPEN SEAM AS SHOWN.
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SUOE FRONT C.l.ASP INTO OPENINGS. USE Z IPPER
FOOT TO STITC.H THROUGH AU FA81UC. L.AYERS
NEXT TO C.L.ASP.
07

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PIN 1_ Vz. " \o/IDE FAC.ING ANO INTERFAC.ING TO
OUITR FA8RIC. AT 8AC.K OPENING
1
MAC.HINE
STITC.H Vz. " SEAM
1
PRESS ANO FOLO TO INSIOE Of
C.ORSET BAC.K. PRESS ANO PIN IN POSITION.
SEW FIRST ROW Of STI TC.HES Vz." IN FROM
OUTSIDE EDGE. LEAVE Ya.. M SPAC.E FOR EYELETS
ANO STII (.H A SEC.ONO SEAM. SEW A FINAL ROW
OF STITC.HES AT OUTER EDGE OF FAC.ING. THE
FINISHED 8AC.K CORSET SHOULD HAVE A C.ENTER
AISLE FOR EYELETS ENC.LOSED 8Y 80NING ON
EITHER SIDE.
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FINISH THE TOP EOGE Of THE CORSET WITH 81AS
TAPE IN THE SAME FA8RIC. MACHINE STITCH
81AS TAPE TO TOP OUTSIOE EOGE OF CORSET.
FOLO 81AS TAPE TO INSIOE ANO MACHINE STITCH
OOWN. SLIOE THE APPROPRIATE LENGTH METAL
STAYS INTO THE R1880N CASINGS. TACK STITCH
~ FROM 80TTOM EOGE OF CORSET.
ANISH THE 80TTOM EOGE OF CORSET WITH 81AS
TAPE JUST AS THE TOP EOGE \JAS COMPLETEO.
09
LAV C.ORSET FLAT WITH 8AC.K OPENING EVEN ANO
MARK WHERE ALL EVELETS WILL BE INSERTEO.
USE A SMALL EVELET HOLE PUNC.H TO C.UT
THROUGH ALL LAVERS. WORK ON TOP Of A
OISPOSA8LE PIEC.E Of WOOO. PRAC.TIC.E SETTING
THE EVELETS FIRST 8V USING SC.RAP FA8RIC..
Vou WILL NEEO A SMALL HAMMER ANO A METAL
EVELET SE I I ER. INSERT EVELETS FROM TOP
SIOE Of FA8RIC.. FLIP C.ORSET OVER ANO SET
EVELETS FROM INSIOE. E. VELETS SHOULO SPREAD
ANO C.LAMP INTO FA8RIC. TIGHTL V.
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WKE. snKr a.-=--
QJRVI AT ICI AS
SHOWN. PULL EXTIU\
LAC.E lENGTH OUT AT
WAIST AREA.
CONTINUE TO lAC.E TO
80TTOM OF C.ORSET.
nE 80W ANO KNOT.
USE WAIST LAC.ES FOR
ADJUSTMENTS. WRAP
LAC.ES AROUND WAIST
ONC.E THEN TIE IN 80W
AT 8ACJ(.
11
FABRIC. ANO NOTIONS: ( SIZE 12.) I YO. FABRIC.,
2 ~ Y05 .!4" SATIN RI880N, 2. V ~ VOS. INSERTION
LAC.E, I YO. I " 8ROC.AOE RI880N
1
1
1::2.. YO. IRON-
ON c.ANVAS INTERFAC.ING, 12. " METAL C.ENTER
FRONT C.LASP, 30 #2. METAL EYELETS, EYELET
SETTER., HOLE PUNC.H., 8 YO. SHOE L.AC.E.
1
/Cf" METAL STAYS : fo/ 12. " , 10/ 11 " , 4/ 10 " ,
12./ 9 " .. 2./ 8 " .
SIZE C.ONVERSION C.HART
SIZE c. 8 lO 12. 14 u. 18
6UST 34 3S 3C. 38 40 42. 44
'lo(AIST 2.S 2.C. 2.7 2.8 31 34 38
HIP 3S 3{o 37 39 42. 44 48
2.0
4C.
40
so
BAc.K I S ~ I C. l{oY4 I C ~ I ~
,,.'!14-
17 17 V.r.
ME. TA L STAYS
SIZE b
-
blll "l 10110"1 4/9"1 8/8'"1 2 /7 "
SIZE 8 - '-112. ",
10/11 ", 4/10'", 10/9 , 2../8 "
SIZE lO
-
'-112. ", 10/11 ", 4/lO" , 12/9", 2.. /8"
SIZf. 12.
-
'-112. ", lO/li " 1 4/lO", 12. /9 .O 1 2. /8"
SIZE 14
- '-112. ..
10111 , 4110", 14/9'", 2../8 "
SIZf. lb
-
b/13" , 10/12.. .. , 4/11 ", 1'-110 ", 2../9"
SIZE 18
-
"-113", 10112. .. '
4/11 "1 18/10 ", 2./9"
StZf. 2.0
-
b/14 " , 10113 '"1 4/12." 2.0/11"1 2.110"
nfESE QUANTITIES fOR METAL STAYS ARE
APPROXIMATE ANO MAY C.HANGE AS THE C.ORSET
1s FII I EO ANO TAKEN UP .
12
COKSL 1 18"0
13
PATTERN MAKING 186o's CORSET
CUT TWO EAC.H OF THE PAI I ERN PIEC.ES, PLUS
TWO 'EAC.H FOR THE C.ORSET LINING.

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TO ENLARGE AN EXISTING C.ORSET PAI JERN TAK.E
C.AREFUL MEASUREMENTS OF THE SU8JEC. T AND
COMPARE THE MEASUREM ENTS TO THE PATTERN
PIEC.ES. REM EMBER THAT THERE ARE 2.4 SEAM
EDGES IN A 12. PIE C. E C.ORSET. I F VOU N.EED AN
EXTRA 3 "' IN T HE UNDER- 8UST AREA, THEN
DIVIDE 3 BY 2.4 . VOU WILL 8 E ADDING TO
EAC.H SEAM. IF IS NEEDED IN THE HIP AREA,
THEN DIVIDE BV 2. 4 ANO ADD Y-+ TO EAC.H
SEAM EDGE.
14
SIZ.I:. E.NLARGf..MfNT DIAGRI\M

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TO E AC:M SEAH IS Y+.
F01t A ltE.I>UC-TIOM IM SIZ.E
CUT .SUC.MTL"{ .Sfii\AU . .E.R
ANO FIT TO WUUt.ER
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BACI<.
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FIT NOW. PIN OR BA STE THE
FRONT SEAM. THE SEAM OF THE
SHOULD HAVE A GAP OF UP TO 2. ". Til E
SHOULO LOOK SM OOTH ON THE 600Y.
AOJUSTMENTS 6 E EASILY MAOE 6Y TAKING
UP SEAMS IN LARGER TIONS.
AFTER. ALL SEAMS HAVE 6EEN TAKEN UP TO T HE
SIZE ANO .. TRIM
SEAM TO THE REQUIREO y..q. " SIZ E. STEAM
PRESS SEAM IN THE SAME
THE WIOTH OF THE TURN
OVER ANO PRESS AG.AIN. VOU ARE NOW
REAOY TO APPL Y THE RI860N STAY
17
HAVE A FRIEND HELP \o/ITH THIS FII IING. THI:RE
SHOULD 8E A 2. " GAP AT 8AC.K OPENING FOR
REOUC.TION OF THE \o/AIST. . START TAKlNG UP
SEAMS A LITTLE AT A TIME UNTIL THE C.ORREC.T
FIT IS AC.HIEVED. 8E SURE TO TAKE THE SAME
AMOUNT OUT OF THE MATC.HING SEAM ON THE
OTHER SIDE OF C.ORSET.
I
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-
WHEN FITTING IS COMPLETE ON 80TH THE OUTER
FA6RIC. ANO LINING, TRIM ALL SEAMS 00\o/N TO V..tt':
STI:.AM PRESS ALL SEAMS TO\o/ARD 6AC..K
OPENING. ON THE FRONT SIOE OF C.ORSET
RI:INFORC.E SEAMS 6Y TOP STITC.HING. FOLLO\o/
THE SAME PROC.EDURE \o/ITH C.ORSET LINING.
15'
PIN C.ORSET OUTER FA8RIC. TO C.ORSET LINING.
lAV FRONT C.LASP ON C.ORSET FRONT OPENING
ANO MARK ON EAC.H SIOE OF C.LASP HOOKS. ON
THE OTHER SIOE OF FRONT OPENING INOIC.ATE
WHERE HOLES WILL 8E C.UT FOR INSERTION OF
CLASP EVES. AT 8AC.K OPENING STEAM PRESS IN
~ ~ IRON-ON C.ANVAS TO STRENGTHEN
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EYELET AREA.
MAC.HINE STITC.H AC.ROSS TOP
OF C.ORSET ANO OOWN 8AC.K
SEAM. STITC.H FRONT SEAM AS
INOIC.ATEO IN ORAWING. STITCH
UP TO MARKS ANO 8ACK STITC.H
TO LOC.K THREAO. SKIP TO
NEXT MARK ANO 00 THE SAME.
THE METAL HOOKS OF THE
FRONT CLASP SHOULO SLIDE
EASIL V INTO THESE OPENINGS.
T\JRN CORSET RIGHT SIOE OUT
AND STEAM PRESS.
SLIDE FRONT CLASP HOOKS INTO DESIGNATED
OPENINGS ANO PIN IN POSITION. CHECK MARKS

fOR HOLES ON THE OTHER SIDE Of FRONT
OPENING. USE AN ICE PICK OR NAIL TO PUNCH
SMALL HOLES FOR CLASP EYES. INSERT CLASP
EYES ONTO HOLES ANO PIN CLASP FIRML V
AGAINST SEAM. USE A Z.IPPER FOOT TO STITCH
NEXT TO 80TH CLASP PIECES.
WITH A CHALK PENCIL MARK ON THE LINING
WHERE ALL STAYS WILL 8E INSERTED. ORAW A
'
UNE ON EITHER SIDE OF THE STAY WHERE
STITCHING WILL BE LOCATED. MACHINE STITCH
AROUNO EACH STAY POCKET LEAVING EACH
POCKET 80TTOM OPEN. SUDE METAL STAYS
INTO EACH POCKET ANO STITCH IT CLOSED AT
8oTTOM.
20
SEW' A 2. ,. PIEC.E Of FAC.ING DOW'N EAC.H SIOE OF
8AC.K OPENING. lRON - ON C.ANVAS li YL" W'IDEJ
SHOULD ALREADY 8 E APPLIED DOW'N THE 8AC.K
OPENING FOR EXTRA STRENGTH. TURN FAC.ING
UNOER
1
STEAM PRESS
1
PIN ANO MAC.HINE STITC.H.
SEW' A SEAM ~ . FROM 8AC.K EOGE TO C.REATE
THE POC.KET FOR A METAL STAY. INSERT
METAL STAYS IN POC.KETS ON 80TH SIDES OF
8AC.K OPENING.
21
SPAC.E EYELETS f Y1- APART ANO MARK W'HERE
THEY W'ILL 8E INSERTEO. USE A HAMMER ANO
SMALL HOLE PUNC.H TO C.UT THROUGH ALL
LAYERS. WORK ON A PIECE Of W'OOO. PUSH
EYELETS THROUGH FROM FRONT SIDE Of fA8RlC..
FUP FA8RlC. OVER ANO SET EYELETS W'ITH
METAL SETTING TOOL ANO HAMMER.
TURN A SEAM TO THE INSIOE ALONG C.ORSET
80TTOM EOGE. PRESSI PINI ANO STITC.H C.LOSEO.
PIN LAC.E ANO RI880N TRI.M ALONG LOW'ER EOGE
Of C.ORSET ANO STITCH IN POSITION.
PIN LAC.E ANO RI880N TRIM TO TOP EOGE Of
C.ORSET. HANO STITC.H IN POSITION. FOR EXTRA
TRIM
1
AOO A SMALL 80W' AT TOP C.ENTER ANO
80TTOM Of FRONT C.LOSURE.
22
FA8RIC ANO NOT IONS: ( SIZE 12.) I VO. FA8RIC, I
I YO. LINING FA8RIC, 2.
1
/;z ... VOS. I " SATIN RI880N,
I Y2- VOS. INSERTION LACE, I !h.. VOS. I NSERTION
RI880N, I VDS. I " EYELET LACE, ~ VO. IRON-
ON CANVAS INTERFACING, 14 ,. M ETAL CENTf:R
FRONT CLASP, 3 0 #2. M ETAL EYELE.TS,. EYELET
SE r JER, HOLE PUNCH, 6 VO. SHOE LACE.
SUGGESTED FA8RICS: SATIN 8ROCAOE, SILK,
COTTON 8ROCADE, TAFFETA, COUTIL, SATIN
RI880N, MOIRE TAFFETA RI880N, VELVET RI880N,
EYELET LACE, ANTIQUE LACE, CANVAS LINING,
8RUSHED COTTON LINING.
23
CHEMISE..
24
PATTERN GR\0
USE TRU- GRIO ANO DUPUC.ATE THE PAr 1 ERN
BELOW'. MAKE YOUR SIZE ADJUST M ENTS NOW'.
THE 8UST AREA SHOULD M EA SURE 2_ T O 4 "
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LARGER T HAN YOUR OW'N M EA SUREM ENTS. VOU
C.AN LENGTHEN OR SHORITN T HE C.HEMISE AS
DESIRED.
LAY THE T RU- GRIO PAI r ERN PIEC.ES ON YOUR
FOLOED FABRIC.. PLAC.E C.HEMISE C.ENTER FRONT
ANO C.ENTER BAC.K ON T HE FOLO. CUT OUT All
THREE PIEC.ES ANO SOME I Yt.." BIAS TAPE STRIPS.
SERGE T OGETHER SHOULDER SEAMS. GATHER
T OP OF SLEEVE ANO PIN INT O ARM EYE. SERGE
IN PLA C.E. SERGE SLEEvE ANO SIDE SEAM. ADD
BlAS T APE TO NEC.KLINE START ING AT FRONT
BELOW' C.ENTER NEC.K . FINISH DIAS 8Y LEAVING
25
AN OPENING AT CENTER FRONT NECKUNE TO
INSERT DRAWSTRING.


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USE A 50FT 8ATISTE FA8RIC FOR THE CHEMISE.
CUT IT LARGER 50 'THAT IT CAN 8E DRAWN UP
AROUNO THE NECKLINE. THE CHEMISE CAN 8E
SLEEVELESS, HAVE A NARROW SHOUL OER, HAVE
AMPLE LACE TRIM OR MAOE PLAIN. THE CHEMISl
MAKES THE CORSET A LITTLE MORE
COMFORTA8LE.
8EFORE SEWING SIOE SEAMS APPL Y LACE TRIM.
26
CHOOSE A SOFT OLD FASHIONED LAC.E FOR
C.HEMISE TRIM. GATHER ALONG ONE EDGE ANO
PIN TO C.HEMISE AS DESIRED. 00 NOT RUN LAC.E
INTO AREA W'HERE C.ORSET W'ILL FIT. MAC.HINE
STITC.H LAC.E TRIM TO C.HEMISE. TINY R1880N
TRIM IS A NIC.E C.OMPLEMENT.
27
ANTIQUE, HANO CROCHETEO L.ACE CAN AOO A
SPECIAL. TOUCH TO THESE BATISTE OR SllK TOPS.
TINV PEARl 6UTTONS CAN BE
AOOEO TO THE FRONT PlACKET.
FABRIC ANO NOTIONS;
I Y2.. VOS. BATISTE, 1- 4
VOS. LACE, 42. "
ORAWSTRING, I YO.
R1880N.
SUGGESTEO FABRICS:
8ATISTE, SILK,
CHARMEUSE, SATIN
CORO, ANTIQUE lACE,
ANO 8UTTONS.
2C
DRAWERS
29
DRAWERS
'* - ' .; -
' '
, '' . '
1
1
, i"
!
lV '\1'.
...
l' 1.' 11 1.? '
COPV THE DIMENSIONS FOR THESE SIZE 12.
DRAWERS ONTO TRU- GRIO FA6RIC.. E.NLARGE
6V ADDING THE EXTRA INC.HES VOU NEED, EVENLV
TO THE SIDE SEAMS. TR.ANSFER PATTE.RN TO
FA6RIC. VOU HAVE C.HOSEN. CUT OUT TWO
FRONTS ANO TWO 6AC.KS.
30
SEW C.ENTER FRONT SEAMS TOGETHER. SEW
C.EN I ER 6AC.K SEAMS TOGETHER. PIN FRONT TO
6ACK DRAWERS ANO STITCH SIOE SEAMS
TOGETHER. PRESS ALL SEAMS OPEN. LNSEAM
WILL 6E LEFT OPEN FOR EASY APPLICATION OF
TRIM. FOLO t OOWN AT WAISTLINE FOR ELASTIC
CASING. MACHINE STITCH CASING ANO THREAO
ELAST IC THROUGH. llGHTEN ANO TACK ELASTIC.
31
PIN ROWS OF EYELET OR LAC.E TRIH TO
ORAWERS LEGS. SEW' ALL TRIH IN POSITION.
SEW' INSEAH C.LOSEO.
FA8RIC. ANO NOTIONS= I !h. VOS. FABRIC., 1)(. VOS.
3 ... EYELET LAC.E, 3 VOS. 7_ "' EYELET LAC.E,
I Ih,. VOS. E. YELET INSERTION LAC.E, ]_ VOS.
INSERTION R1880N. I VD. Y2- " ELASTIC..
32
TRIM DESIGNS C.AN BE AS ORNATE AS DESIRED.
A FEW EXAMPLES ARE SHOWN.
33

CORSlT 1750
34
CORSET \750
FOLLO'W THE GRIO 8 ELOW ANO TRANSFER THE
PATTERN PIEC.ES TO TRU- GRIO PELLON OR I " GRIO
PAPER. CAREFULLY FOLLOW MEASUREMENTS ANO
ORAW ALL OIREC.TIONS ONTO THE PATTERN PIEC.ES
WITH A FELT PEN. IF A OIFFERENT SIZE C.ORSET
IS OESIREO, SEE THE C.HART AT THE 8ACK OF
THIS 800K.
(&:llf "'
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CUT OUT . TRU- GRIO PAI I ERN PIEC.ES. ARRANGE
FRONT SIOE ANO 8AC.K PATTERN PIEC.ES ON
FOLOEO FA8RIC.. PIN IN POSITION ANO C.UT OUT.
CUT PEPLUM PIEC.ES FROM REMAINING FA8RIC..
CUT MATC.HING LININGS FOR ALL OF THESE
PIEC.ES. CUT SIOE, FRONT, ANO 8AC.K
INTERFAC.INGS FROM IRON-oN c.ANVAS.
35
FRONT
SU>E.
Y4 ME.TA\. Sli\V5 SHOULD BE OllDE.RED
tN Lf.NG'lttS. FOil P. Sll..E. .1'1..
CORSETOitDE.R 2./fl", 4/JO",
tS/12.'" ..r 8/to".
THESE QUANTITIES FOR METAL STAYS ARE
APPROXIMATE ANO MAY CHANGE AS THE CORSET
IS FITTEO ANO TAKEN UP.
AN INEXPENSIVE PROOUCT T HAT WORKS WELL AS
80NING IS M ETAL STRAPPING USED ON CRATES
ANO IN SHIPPING. TlfiS PROOUC"f MUST HAVE THE
ENDS TIPPEO WITH A PLASTIC SEALER SO IT WILL
NOT CUT THROUGH THE FABRIC. SPRAY PAINTING
THIS M ETAL STRAPPING WITH A NON- RUSTING
PAINT IS SUGGESTEO. THE AOVANTAGE OF THIS
METAL 80NING IS COST ANO THE ABILITY TO CUT
n: TO THE EXACT SIZE.
36
USE IRON-ON C.ANVAS INTERFAC.ING TO STIFFEN
THE ARMHOLES ANO NEC.KUNE OF THE C.ORSET
LINING. STEAM PRESS ALL INTERFAC.INGS IN
POSITION. SEW LINING FRONT 80DIC.E SEAM TO
SIDE 800IC.E PIEC.E ANO SIDE 800IC.E SEAM TO
LINING 8ACK 800IC.E PIEC.E l AS SHOWN ). SEW
OUTER FA8RIC. PIEC.ES TO EAC.H OTHER IN THE
SAME MANNER. LEAVE THE 8ACK SEAMS OPEN .
37
,.,.
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WITH PENC.IL ANO RULER DRAW' STITC.HING UNES
FOR EVERY STAY POC.KET ON LINING FA8RIC..
WORK ON THE TOPSIDE OF C.ORSET LINING
FA6RIC.. PIN OUTER C.ORSET TO C.ORSET UNING.
WITH LINING FAC.ING UP MAC.HINE STITC.H EAC.H
PENC.IL UNE TO PRODUC.E POC.KETS FOR STAYS.
LEAVE TOP OF STAY POC.KETS OPEN FOR
INSERTION OF STAYS. FINISH 60TTOM OF EAC.H
STAY POC.KET 6Y MAC.HINE STITC.HING ~ 4 - A60VE
LO\.IFR C.ORSET EDGE.
31
CUT ALL PEPLUM PIEC.ES.
PIN ANO MAC.HINE STITC.H
EAC.H PIEC.E Of PEPLUM TO
LINING. llJRN AND PRESS.
NUM8ER Of PEPLUM TABS
WILL 8E GOVERNED 8Y
WAIST LENGTH.
CAREFULLY PIN TA8 PIEC.ES TO WAIST SEAM OF
C.ORSET. VISUAL L Y C.HEC.K TO 8E SURE PEPLUM
TA8S HANG C.ORREC.TLY WHEN VIEWED FROM T HE
FRONT . MAC.HINE STITC.H PEPLUM TA8S TO
C.ORSET WAIST. fiNISH THE WAIST SEAM 8Y
SERGING OR C.OVER THE SEAM WITH 81AS T APE.

39
FINISH THE 8AGK OPENING Of THE GORSET IN A
SIMILAR MANNER AS THE VIG TORIAN GORSET.
SEW A 8AGK FAGING DOWN 80TH SIDES Of 8AGK
OPENING. FOLD IN
1
PRESS
1
ANO WHIP STITC.H
FAC.ING TO FINISH 8AC.K SEAMS. MARK WHERE
EYELETS l SMALL GROMMETS ) WILL 8E
PLAGED. E YELETS SHOULD 8E PLAC.ED IN AISLE
8ETVE"EN TW'O 8AGK PIEC.ES OF 80NING. fOLLOW
DIREC.TIONS FOR SETTING EYELETS ON PREGEDING
PAGES. USE A 54 SHOE LACE TO FASTEN
C.ORSET.
40
FA8RIC. ANO NOTIONS : I YO. FA8RIC., I YD. LINING,
I 'h.. YDS. RI880N, I YD. IRON-:-ON C.ANVAS, 2.0 SMALL
GROMMETS, HOLE PUNC.H, GROM.M ET SE I I ER,
54" SHOE LACE.
METAL STAYS : (srz.e. l'l.) 2../.ft>", 12./8 .. , 4jlo",
18/1'2..''' 8Jt0 .
THESE QUANTITIES FOR METAL STAYS ARE
APPROXIMATE ANO MAY C.HANGE AS THE C.ORSET
IS FIJ I EO ANO TAKEN UP.
SUGGESTEO FA8RIC.S : EM8ROIOERIEO
TAPESTRY WEAVE, HEAVY 8ROC.AOE,
VEL VET, SATIN. LINING FA8RIC.-
C.ANVAS, SATIN, C.OTTON.
C.REWEL,
WOOL,
MUSUN,
41

CORSELET 1700
42
TT
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FOLLOW THE GRID ABOVE ANO TRANSFER THE
PAI I ERN PIEC.ES TO T RU-GRIO PELLON OR I " GRIO
PAPER. CAREFULL Y FOLLOW MEASUREM ENTS ANO
ORAW ALL OIREC.TIONS ONTO THE PAI I ERN
PIEC.ES WITH A FEL T PEN . lF A OIFFERENT SIZE
C.ORSET IS DESIREO., SEE THE C.HART AT THE
6At.K Of T HIS 600K.
CUT TWO EA C.H Of THE C.ORSELET FRONT _, 6At.K
ANO STRAPS. 00 THE SAME WITH THE UNING
FABRIC.. USE IRON- ON C.ANVAS T O C.UT FOUR
FRONT INTERFA C.INGS. WITH THE RIGHT SlOES Of
FA6RIC. T OGETHER SEW THE BAC.K SEAM. SEW
SIDE SEAMS. PUT THE LINING PIEC.ES T OGETHER
IN T HE SAME WAY.
43
PRESS C.ANVAS INTERFAC.ING TO LINING AT
C.ENTER FRONT OPENING.
80NING WIU 6E APPLIED ONL Y TO C.ORSET
LINING. USE A C.HALK PENC.Il TO INDICATE
WHERE 60NING Wlll 6E SEWN TO LINING.
FEATHER WEIGHT 60NING MAY 6E USED INSTEAD
OF METAL 60NING. CUT 60NING TO SIZE ANO
STEAM PRESS FLAT. PIN IN POSITION LEAVING
A <'5./+ " SEAM AT THE TOP ANO 60TTOM Of
C.ORSELET. USE MAC.HINE TO STITC.H DIREC.Tl Y
DOWN C.ENTER Of EAC.H PIEC.E OF 60NING.
AFTER All 60NING IS APPUED., STEAM PRESS
C.ORSET LINlNG.
DECIDE 8EFOREHANO WHAT LOOK VOU WANT TO
AC.HIEvE W1TH C.HOIC.E OF FABRIC.,
C.OLOR, TEXTURE, ANO T RIM.
PIN T HE C.HOSEN TRIM IN POSITION LEAVING "
SEAM AL.LOWANC.E ON OUTSIOE EOGES. MAC.HINE
STITC.H ALL T RIM IN POSITION. PIN RIGHT SIOES
OF C.ORSEL.ET TOGETHER ANO SEW TOP, 80TTOM
ANO ONE FRONT SEAM. LEAvE THE OTHER SEAM
OPEN FOR TURNING T HE GARMENT. TURN RIGHT
SIOE OUT ANO PRESS.
"
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45
AFTER SEWING FRONT C.ORSET TO LINING, TURN
ANO PRESS ON WRONG SIDE. FOLO OPEN SEAM
TO THE INSIOE ANO HANO STITC.H c.t.OSED. MARK
WHERE GROMMETS WILL 8 E PLAC.ED. CHOOSE A
LARGE HOLE PUNC.H THAT WILL AC.C.OMMOOATE
THIS Slz.E GROMMET. AS SUGGESTED 8 EFORE,
WORK ON A PIEC.E OF WOOD.
PUSH GROMMETS INTO HOLES
FROM FRONT SIOE OF FA8RIC. ..--------::=r-...::---,
FLIP C.ORSELET OVER ANO
POSITION SEC.OND PART OF
GROMMET INTO PLAC.E. USE
A HAMMER ANO A SETTING
TOOL To JOIN GROMMET
PIE.C.ES TOGETHER TIGHTL V
TltlGH FAHIUC. '
46
DECIDE 8 EFOREHANO WHAT l..OOK VOU WANT TO
ACHIEVE W'ITH CHOICE OF FA8RIC
1
COLOR
1
TEXTURE
1
ANO TRIM.
PIN T HE CHOSEN TRIM IN POSITION LEAVING
SEAM All..OWANCE ON OUTSIOE EOGES. MACHINE
STITC.H All T RIM IN POSITION. PIN RIGHT SIOES
OF C.ORSELET TOGETHER ANO SEW TOP
1
80TTOM
ANO ONE FRONT SEAM. LEAVE T HE OTHER SEAM
OPEN FOR T URNING THE GARMENT. TURN RIGHT
SIOE OUT ANO PRESS.
,
,
,
,
I
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,
'

f
I
I
1 I
47
AFTER SE\o(ING FRONT CORSET TO LINING, TURN
ANO PRESS ON \o(RONG SIOE. FOLO OPEN SEAM
TO THE INSIOE ANO HANO STITCH CLOSEO. MARK
\o(HERE GROMMETS \o(ILL 8E PLACEO. CHOOSE A
LARGE HOLE PUNCH THAT \o(ILL ACCOMMOOATE
THIS SIZE GROMMET. AS SUGGESTEO 8EFORE,
\o(ORK ON A PIECE Of \o(OOO
.
PUSH GROMMETS INTO HOLES
FROM FRONT SIDE Of FA8RIC. r - : : : : - - f ~ ~ ~
FLIP C.ORSELET OVER ANO
POSITION SEC.ONO PART Of
GROMMET INTO PLACE. USE ~
A HAMMER ANO A SETTING ~ _
TOOL TO JOIN GROMMET
PIEC.ES TOGETHER TIGHTL V
THROUGH FABRIC..
4&'
MAKE C.ORSELET STRAPS BY PINNING FABRIC. ANO
UNING TOGETHER. STITC.H UP ONE SIDE AND
OOWN THE OTHER LEAVING THE 80TTOM OF
STRAP OPEN FOR TURNING. TURN ANO PRESS.
AOO TRIM. SERGE
FIT C.ORSEJ...ET TO
PROPER POSITION.
C.ORSELET.
80TTOM EOGE Of STRAP.
WEARER ANO PIN STRAPS IN
MAC.HINE STITC.H STRAPS TO
49
HERE ARE JUST A FEW OF THE DIFFERENT STYLES
THAT CAN 8E ACHIEVED WITH THE ADDITION OF
TRIMS.
1\UYo\\l\\IUI.\\UlliS\ lUIUU11n
11111

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ENLARGE. ""f SAC.K ANO .510f. SE.AMS.
THE AODITION OF V.ct-" TO TftE..SE. SEAM E.DGES WIU.
INCREJ\SE. TME. PRTTERN ONE. Sll:.E. .

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COll.SELET
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ADOITIONAL 50NIM(j WILL &E. JIE.CC.ESSAR.V AS TME.
COK.Sf.. U:.T SI'Z..E. JNCJtE.ASE.S.
FA6RIC ANO NOTIONS : 3. YD. FA6RIC., YD.
LINING FA6RIC, Y4 YD. I RON-oN CANVAS, 5
YDS . Pl..ASTIC. 60NING, 8 VOS. TRIM, 10 SMAll
GROMMETS, HOLE PUNCH, GROMMET SE I l ER,
3 fo " SHOE LACE OR LEATHER THONG.
FABRIC. SUGGESTIONS : HEAVY WOVEN FABRIC.S
WITH A OESIGN, PETTIPOINT UPHOLSTERY
FA8RIC, 8ROCADES, TRAPUNTO
1
CREWEL
WORK, SUEDE, VELVET.
TRIM SUGGESTIONS : METALLIC 6RAlD,
RI660N, TASSELS, 6UTTONS, APPLIQUES,
TIPS, FLOWERS.
LACE,
BOLO
51
SUPPUERS: PERFORMING ARTS SUPPLY C.OMPANY
11437 TODO
HOUSTON, TEXAS 77055
I l713) "81- 8"88
RIC.HARD THE THREAD
MELROSE AVENUE
W. HOLL YWOOD, C.ALIFORNIA 900"9
I l2.13) 852.- 4997
AMAZON DRVGOOOS
E. 11 TH STREET
DAVENPORT, IA.
I l319)

ia a
TiL tkJt4d7
7o



52
ALSO AVAILABLE. IN THIS SE.RIES:
THE UTTLE HATMAKING 800K
E.ASV TO FOLLOW GUIOE ON THE C.ONSTRUC.TION Of
A LARGE BRIM TURN-of- THE-C.ENTURY HAT FRAME.
PA f I ERNS, C.OVERING ANO TRIMMING TEC.HNIQUES
SHOWN.
THE LI I I LE 80DICE 800K
A WORKBOOK ON BOOIC.E C.ONSTRUC.TION. A SIMPLE
GUIOE USING ONE BASIC. 8001C.E PAl I ERN TO
AC.HIEVE OIFFERENT STYLES ANO PERIOOS.
SOON TO BE PUBI..ISHEO:
THE LI I I LE HATMAKING 800K 11
AN EASY TO FOLLOW GUIOE ON 8UILOING ELIU\BETHAN,
TUOOR ANO R.ENAISSANC.E HATS FOR M EN ANO WOMEN.
ALSO AVAILABLE:
THE COSTUME WORKSHOP
A ' HO\oi'- TO' TELEVISION SERIES OEMONSTRATING EASY
ANO EC.ONOMIC.Al METHOOS OF 8UILOING COSTUMES.
ntESE SHO\oi'S ARE AVAILA8LE IN 30 MINUTE V . H. S
SHOW # I LARGE BRIM VIC.TORIAN HAT FRAME
C.ONSTRUC. TION.
SHOW # 2. C.OVERING ANO TRIMMING A VIC.TORIAN
HAT.
SHOW #3 fROM GARAGE SALE TO RENAISSANC.E
COSTUME.
SHOW # 4 BUILOING A TURN-of- THE- C.ENTURY C.APE
ANO SKIRT THE EASY WAY.
SHOW #S fROM RESALE TO VIC.TORIAN WEOOING
ORESS.
SHOW ~ ... AN " 1830 UNifORM C.OAT fROM A NAVY
8LUE BLAZER.
53
SHOW # 7 TRIMMING THf: VIC.TORIAN 'WEDDING DRESS
FROM SHOW 5 .
SHO'W # S A SMALL 80V 'S KNIGHT C.OSTUME THE
EASV WAV.
SHOW #9 8UILDING LIGHT 'WEIGHT M EDI EVAL
C.ROWNS.
SHOW #IO C.ONSTRUC.TING AN INHVERNESS C.APE
WITHOUT A PAI f ERN.
FOR A FREE BROC.HURE ANO FURTHER IHFORMATION
C.ONTAC.T:
80NNIE HOL T AM8ROSE
THE C.OSTUME '-IORKSHOP
417 REINic.KE
HOUSTONI TEXAS 77007
I ( 713) 8b4-- 3%9
54
Bonnie Holt Ambrose's
ITTLE COSTUME WORKBOOKS
Bonnie Holt Ambrose h.as been designing, cuuing
and maintaining costumes in her own theatrical supply
company for 22 years. During tkat time, she lzas
discovered some time-saving and simple methods for
building hats and pen"od clothing and is slzarillg
chiS knowledge in her mini-book series. Each book
guides the reader through step-by-sup construc-
tion with waterco/or illustracions of various costume
parts. Bonnie's methods have proven popular
and easy-to-follow.
9
ISBN-13: 978-0-89676-130-8
I SBN- I 0: 0-89676- 130-4
90000
1111111111