September Gardening Tips for Los Angeles County Residents

by Yvonne Savio September's mildness makes just about any gardening tasks pleasant. The soil and air are warm but not overly hot. Fresh summer produce is still delicious, but production is slowing down. Garden tasks center around cleaning up the old garden and getting the new one started. Seeds and trans-plants o cool-weatherhardy crops can be planted now or harvests rom all through early spring. Seeds sown now or spring blooms and crops--especially edible peas and lowering sweet peas--will encourage strong root and oliar development that will survive most rosts, thrive, and bear sooner in the spring. Soil amendments can be collected and dug in now to break down over the winter, enriching the soil or ne!t year's gardens.

Vegetables and Fruits

Sow beets, bok choy, broccoli, "russels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauli lower, celery, chard, chervil, chives, collards, endive, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce #in our hot climate, this is the best time or sowing and transplanting heading types$, green onions, short-day bulb onions #like Grano, Grane!, and %alla %alla$, parsley #the lat-lea type is more winter-hardy than the curly one$, parsnips, peas, white potatoes, radishes, spinach, and turnips. Sow or transplant two or three times the amount you would or spring harvest, as these overwintering crops will grow very slowly, and you'll harvest only a lea or two a week rom each lettuce plant. &s some herbs reseed themselves, transplant them or overwintering either into the garden or indoors. 'ill, especially, seems to germinate better this way, so take advantage o it. (onsider sowing some rost-tender herbs or resh use indoors all winter long. Seeds can be started either indoors or outdoors now, but they must be moved indoors by ne!t month. This will allow them to acclimate to the warmer and drier indoor conditions be ore it's too cold outdoors. )uite a ew herbs make attractive edible house-plants, including both dark green and dark opal basil, chervil, chives, dill, mint, oregano, parsley #the lat-lea type is hardier and more lavor ul$, rosemary, summer savory, sweet marjoram, and thyme. Sow the seeds thickly to guarantee good germination, as plants will grow slowly over the winter, and conse*uently less oliage will be available or recipes. +roblems with seed ger-mination may be due to old seed, soil that is too warm or has been allowed to dry out, or seeds that were sown either too deeply or not deeply enough. ,eep seedbeds moist and shaded rom hot a ternoon sun until the seedlings develop two to our true leaves. & ter transplanting them, mulch the soil lightly,and add more in -ctober and .ovember or additional rost protection. ,eep the mulch an inch away rom the plant stems, however, or good air circulation and less potential or disease problems. /egetables that tolerate light rosts and temperatures in the upper twenties will e!tend the growing season and provide resh produce all winter long. These include beets, (hinese and savoy-lea ed cabbages, collards, kale, butterhead and heading and romaine lettuces, lat-lea parsley, radishes, turnips, savoy-lea ed spinaches, and Swiss chard. Sow or transplant two or three times the amount you would or spring harvest, as these overwintering crops will grow very slowly, and you'll harvest only a lea or two at a time rom each plant. +lants that have developed deep root systems and mature leaves are more tolerant to the cold. %hen these plants are three or our inches in si0e be ore the irst hard rost, they're mature enough to be harvested throughout the all, winter, and early spring. These will bolt at the irst real warmth o early spring, though, so they can't be countedon to provide a crop a ter that. "ut, by then, you'll have made the irst spring plantings, so the gap between harvests won't be too long.

%hen sowing cover crops or the all and winter, consider edible ones. ,ale and rocket #ro*uette, arugula$ are ull- lavored lea y vegetables that withstand ree0ing. "oth germinate in cool weather and are welcome resh greens or stir- ry and soups all winter long. 1n the spring, they can be easily turned under as 2green manure2 when preparing the soil or the main spring and summer crops. +inch out new blossoms and growing tips o melons, winter s*uashes, and determinate tomatoes to orce growth into the ruits that have already set. &ny that set rom now on won't ripen su iciently be ore cool weather comes--unless you want lots o immature green tomatoes around Thanksgiving. 1ndeterminate cherry tomatoes, on the other hand, can be allowed to continue setting, as the little ruits ripen more *uickly.

Flame Seedless grapes almost ready or munching right rom the vine. +hoto by 6vonne Savio

+lant new trees while the soil is still warm to encourage the roots to get established be ore going dormant or the winter. Trim o deadwood and watersprouts #*uickly-growing upright shoots$, but leave major pruning or 3anuary, when the trees are dormant. Feed citrus or the last time this year, and water trees less as the weather cools and the rains #hope ully$ take over. (upped, wilted, or alling leaves signal moisture stress rom hot winds, which can occur even when the soil is damp. +rovide lath, shade cloth, or other semi-open material or protection. +ale green new citrus leaves may need a dose o li*uid chelated iron or a solution o ish emulsion and kelp. 4emove and destroy ruit mummies on the ground or still on the tree to reduce the chance o brown rot ne!t year. Strawberries with whitish or yellowish leaves need to be ertili0ed one last time with a high-nitrogen ood. & ter that, ertili0er them with a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus, and high-potassium ertili0er to help them harden o or the winter. Sun-dry the last prune plums, grapes, igs, apples, and pears. "e sure to keep the moist pieces separate so the sur aces can orm a seal against spoilage.

Ornamentals
Sow or transplant ageratums, alyssums, asters, astilbes, baby blue eyes, baby's breath #gypsophila$, bachelor's buttons #corn lower$, begonias, calendulas #winter or pot marigold$, campanulas #bell lower, canterbury bells$, candytu ts #iberis$, carnations #dianthus, pinks, sweet williams$, chrysanthemums, clarkias #godetia$, columbines #a*uilegia$, coralbells #heuchera$, coreopsis #pot o gold, calliopsis$, gloriosa daisy #rudbeckia, black-eyed-susan, cone lower$, Shasta daisy, 5nglish daisy #bellis$, delphiniums, orget-me-nots #myosotis$, o!gloves, gaillardias #blanket lower$, gerberas #Transvaal daisy$, geums, hollyhocks, impatiens, larkspur, linarias, lobelias, lunarias #honesty, silver dollar plant, money plant$, nemesias, nigellas #love-in-amist, +ersian jewel$, pansies, penstemons #bearded tongue$, phlo!es, 1celand and -riental and (ali ornia poppies, primroses #primula$, salvias, snapdragons, statice #limonium, sea lavender$, stocks, sweet peas, verbena, and violas. Several companies o er individual varieties and collections o (ali ornia wild lowers that are grouped by color or geographic area or other characteristics such as drought resistance. For very ragrant sweet peas, rely on some old- ashioned varieties such as Antique Fantasy and Painted Lady, or new cultivars that have the distinctive ragrance bred back in, like Leamington, Rosy Frills, Royal Wedding, and Snoopea. +lant cyclamen and primroses where they're shaded rom the still-intense a ternoon sun or color through ne!t spring. -ther all-color perennials include ortnight lily and ,a ir lily.

"ring in houseplants rom their summer breather outdoors a ter grooming them and thoroughly checking them or pests. This is a good time to repot them in resh potting mi!. Toss the 2old2 mi! out into the garden or onto the compost pile. ,eep them in a bright area indoors or three weeks to let them gradually get used to the darker, warmer, and drier indoor conditions. Then move them to their winter homes--but away rom dra ts and heaters. Transplant perennials, ground covers, shrubs, and vines while the soil and air temperatures are still warm to give them a ull season's root development over those planted in the spring. Set them out in the cooler late a ternoons or evenings, and water them in with a mild solution o a balanced ertili0er to promote new root growth and reduce transplant shock. 7ulch and shade them lightly or the irst week. &dd more mulch in -ctober and .ovember or additional rost protection. Transplant shrubs and trees no later than si! weeks be ore the soil temperature drops to 89 degrees or lower to give them enough time to settle in. This is especially help ul or lowering crabapples, or-sythias, 5nglish ivies, junipers, honey locusts, maples, pines, rhododendrons, spruces, and yews. Switch to a 9-:9-:9 ertili0er or a0aleas, camellias, gardenias, and >innias are a riot o color at rhododendrons to encourage ormation o ne!t spring's blossom buds. 1ncrease the end o summer. the spring bloom si0e o a0aleas, camellias, dahlias, and rhododendrons by remov-ing hal o the new lower buds. For e!tra-large camellia blooms, remove all but one bud per branch; leave some urther down on the bush or later bloom. +rolong blooming on tuberous begonias, dah-lias, and uchsias by pinching o aded lowers. %ater them re*uently while the weather is still hot, and then eed them with a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus ertili0er be ore they begin to go dormant. 'ivide and replant crowded perennials such as agapanthus, coralbells, Shasta daisies, daylilies, phlo!es, and yar-row. Stake tall-growing mums be ore they get too top-heavy and all over, unless you pre er a cascading or curly-stemed display. Feed mums until the buds show color and begin to open. (ut back alyssum, coreopsis, marguerite and Shasta daisies, delphiniums, dianthus, elicias, gaillardias, geraniums, ivies, lantanas, lobelias, petunias, and santolinas to one-third or one-hal o their present si0e. <owever, don't cut them back beyond the green oliage to the older woody growth, as this may kill the plant. 4oot the cuttings o semi-woody plants, including uchsias, geraniums, hydrangeas, ivies, and mar-guerite daisies. 4emove all but the top our leaves, and bury at least two nodes #but pre erably our or ive$ on the stem in damp sand or a peat moss-and-perlite mi!. They should be ready to transplant in two months. +lant iris rhi0omes, daylily crowns, and lily bulbs in well-drained soil amended with organic matter. 1rises pre er to sit on top o the soil, with only their roots buried. 'aylilies like to be one inch below the soil sur ace. =ilies need a three-inch layer o humus on top o their roots. 1rises can take all the sun they can get, daylilies will bloom nicely in ull sun or partial shade, and lilies need their bases shaded but oliage in the sun. +lant lily bulbs as soon as you get them, as they don't ever go ully dormant. Trim bearded iris oliage ans to about eight inches rom the rhi0ome. +lant new irises and divide others i they have less than an inch o soil space between them or i they didn't bloom well last spring. 'iscard the old, lea less center sections, trim the roots o the newer ones to two inches in length, and plant them just below the soil sur ace. 'on't ertili0e them, but water them in well a ter planting and every other week until the rains take over. This is the last month to prune roses and eed them or their last bloom cycle be ore going dormant. <old o on severe pruning until plants are ully dormant in 3an-uary. Feed plants lightly, and water. (ontinue to water them only in the mornings to lessen mildew and other wet- oliage-at-sunset-with-warm-evenings disease prob-lems.

"ulbs to plant or spring bloom can be purchased now or irst-choice *uality. These include alliums, amaryllis, anemones, brodiaeas, crocuses, da odils, reesias #so ragrant?$, ritillarias, galanthus, baby glads, glory-o -the-snows, grape and 'utch and wood hyacinths, 'utch irises, i!ias, leucojums, lycoris, montbretias, narcissus, paperwhites, peonies, ranunculus, scilla, snowdrops, spara!is, tigridia, tritonia, triteleia, tulips, dog-tooth violets, watsonias, and winter aconites. (hoose big, plump bulbs, as these have the most stored ood and will produce the largest and most numerous blooms over the longest period o time. They cost a bit more, but they'll provide a great deal more pleasure when they bloom. 4e rigerate hyacinths and tulips or si! to eight weeks be ore planting them in .ovember. 5specially ragrant reesia cultivars include Athene, Allure, Demeter, Excelsior, Golden Wave, Westlind, Sno#don, and Wel"in. ira!el, Pin"

1 you like having blooms in the lawn, these are good or naturali0ing, and the ripening oliage ollowing bloom won't inter ere with mowing the lawn@ (hionodo!a, eranthis, muscari, ornithogalum, and puschkinia. 'on't orget to buy some bulbs just or indoor orcing color rom Thanksgiving through 3anuary. Good choices include amaryllis, crocus, reesias, lily-o -the-valley, paperwhites, and tulips. Store the bulbs in a cool, well-ventilated area until you're ready to plant them. (hill crocus, da odil, hyacinth, narcissus, and tulip bulbs in a paper bag on the lowest shel in the re rigerator--at about 89 degrees-- or at least si! weeks. %rap them in paper--not plastic--bag, since the bulbs are alive and must breathe. 5nrich the soil where the bulbs are to be planted with com-post, bone meal, and granite dust or wood ashes #but not rom charcoal bri*uets used in the barbecue, which contain harm ul chemicals$. &lso, add some nitrogen, as it is easily washed rom the soil by winter rains, and bulbs need a small but continuous supply all winter long or strong growth o the oliage and the bloomstalk. For a long-lasting spring display, plant some early, mid-season, and late-blooming bulbs every other week rom -ctober through mid-'ecember, and again beginning in late 3anuary. 'epth o planting also a ects when the bulbs will bloom@ shallower plantings will bloom sooner, and deeper plantings will bloom later. 1 you want everything to bloom or one spectacular display, plant the bulbs at the same time and at the same depth. 1 you pre er color over several months' time, plant bulbs every several weeks, and vary the planting depths each time you plant. +lant autumn-blooming sa ron crocus now or a .ovember harvest. 5ach corm produces rom one to three lowers, and about si! corms should provide su i-cient sa ron--just the three tiny red stamens in each bloom-- or each cooking or baking recipe. (orms are available rom .ichols Garden .ursery, ::A9 .orth +aci ic <wy., &lbany, -regon ABCD:. 'ry lowers or arrangements that you've grown yoursel . The easiest to dry are baby's breath, bachelor's button, bells o 1reland, lavender, scabiosa, statice, straw lower, and yarrow. &ll but the bells o 1reland are best air-dried@ tie a ew stems into a loose bunch, and hang it up, lower heads down, in a cool, dark, dry place or several weeks. The e!ception is bells o 1reland--stand these upright in a container with a hal -inch o water; lowers will dry as the water evaporates. Save the stalks o tall sun lowers, stripped o their branches and leaves, to use ne!t year as trellises or peas and beans. Start or reseed lawns. ,eep the soil sur ace moist so seeds germinate and seedling roots get a good start. Feed and water established lawns; continue mowing at two inches in height. Shrubs with color ul berries to plant now or all and winter accents include abelia, barberry, bottlebrush, orsythia, holly, hydrangea, oleander, pyracantha, *uince, and toyon. This is the per ect time o year to plant a tree to beauti y your yard--the roots will get well established be ore they go dormant, ready or the spring surge o both oliage and root growth.

'ecide what you want rom a tree--where it will be planted and or what purpose. 1 you want summer shade or the house, a deciduous tree planted on the south side would be appropriate. 1 you pre er a pleasant window view, a grouping o silver birches might be nice. Fall colors come alive with many trees, including beech, birch, coral tree, gingko, li*uidambar, magnolia, maidenhair, 3apanese and other maples, crape myrtles, persimmon, (hinese pistache, sour gum, (hinese tallow, tulip tree #named or its tulip-shaped leaves$, and 0elkova. -nce you've made a preliminary choice, consider the mature si0e o the tree--does the area allow the tree su icient space when it's matureE <ave you planned or the di erent needs o the shaded and moist soil underneath its widespread limbsE %hen all these considerations seem to it, purchase it and plant it. &void planting trees that are prone to wind damage. These include acacia, ash, cypress, elm, eucalyptus, li*uidamber, (ali ornia pepper, and pine. Shape evergreen hedges or the last time this year.

General
(ontinue replenishing your compost pile. Spent annuals and vegetables add a lot o bulk now, along with grass and other garden clippings, and non-greasy trimmings rom the kitchen. "ut, leave out plants that are obviously in ected with diseases--destroy or dispose o these, instead. (hop up bulky items to help them decompose aster. =ayer greenery with a bit o soil and dry matter. ,eep the pile moist but not waterlogged, and turn it or loosen it up every other week or so to let in air. 'ig in organic soil amendments to break down over the witner, enriching the soil or ne!t year's garden. &s you clean up dried oliage rom bulbs, mark their locations, so you don't damage them when digging later in the season. <ose o plant oliage--both top and underneath lea sur aces--to lessen insect populations. This is especially help ul to get rid o aphids, caterpillars, mealybugs, spider mites, and white lies on beans, collards, kale, tomatoes, and roses. "e sure to do this early enough in the day #pre erably early morning$ so that the oliage can dry completely by sunset. &n old paring or putty kni e can be used to cut transplants out o a lat or to aid harvesting. -ld tires can serve a variety o uses besides as tree swings. Single ones illed with soil orm small-scale raised beds. Fse a porous mi!ture o potting mi! or e!tra good drainage. Several tires stacked on top o one another orm deep barrels or potatoes and tomatoes. -verlap tires up a slope, illing each with soil and planting ground cover or e!cellent rein orcement o unstable embankments or where there's little soil. The tires retain heat, resulting in e!tra late- all and early-spring growth. Fse a garden hose to help plan a curved landscape area. 1ts position can be changed easily until the desired shape is determined. (ut o the bottoms o plastic gallon jugs, use the tops as mini-greenhouses, and use the bottoms as saucers or pots or shallow starting trays. (ut a slit rom one side to the center, and cut an inch-wide hole at the center or a per ect cutworm guard or tomato plants ne!t spring.