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Cheap and Easy Toner Transfer for PCB Making
by hilarycheng on April 5, 2007
Table of Contents
Cheap and Easy Toner Transfer for PCB Making . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Intro: Cheap and Easy Toner Transfer for PCB Making . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Step 1: Start to Iron It. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Step 2: Soak It with Cold Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Step 3: Etch It ! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Step 4: Clean and Then Finish! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-and-Easy-Toner-Transfer-for-PCB-Making/
Intro: Cheap and Easy Toner Transfer for PCB Making
There are lots of people mentioned about using Inkjet Glossy Paper to do Toner Transfer. It can be done. But it is not easy to remove it after ironing. You have soak the
PCB in hot water for more than ten minutes. It is quite time consuming. If you cannot remove the coating completely. It cannot be etched.
I have tried to use Konica Minolta Photo Quailty Matte Paper. Then design your own circuit and print it on the Matte Paper. Remember, before printing it. You need to
mirror board. Otherwise, the circuit will be inversed.
Image Notes
1. Inkjet Mate Paper with Printed Circuit
Step 1:Start to Iron It.
Face the Toner Side of Matte Paper towards to the Copper Side. Turn On your Iron. Unlike the Glossy Paper, you have to turn to maximum temperature. You don't need
it this time. I turn the iron to medium temperature (becoz the paper is not very thick.. Heat is easy to Transfer to Copper and Toner). Firstly, Iron the side of PCB. After 30
seconds, you will find the Matte Paper will stick to Copper firmly. It means it is successful. Then Iron the whole PCB. Depends on the Size of PCB, I use around 2minutes
for this Copper Board (Around 3cm x 4cm).
If some area cannot stick, it means your copper board is not clean enough. Remove the Paper and Use Acetone and Sand Paper to Clean it.
Image Notes
1. Iron!
2. Iron
3. Iron
4. Iron
http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-and-Easy-Toner-Transfer-for-PCB-Making/
Step 2:Soak It with Cold Water
Just Soak It in the Cold Water. Since Matte Paper are much thinner than Glossy Paper. Paper will become soft very quickly. Use your finger to remove the paper gently.
Don't Remove it Too Hard. Otherwise, some toner will be removed too.
Please check the every trace. Find out any broke trace. If find, use Acetone to clean it and do it again.
Image Notes
1. Remove Paper Gently
Step 3:Etch It !
Use any kind of etchant to etch your copper board. I use Ferric Chloride. Put Ferric Chloride into Water and wait until it dissolve. Put the Copper Board into it and Wait
Until All Uncover Copper Disappear.
Step 4:Clean and Then Finish!
Finally, we need to remove the Toner. Use the Acetone (Nail Polish Remover) to clean it.
This PCB in the Photo are LQFP -80 14mmx14mm. The Trace is around 14mil. It is quite clean and no broken trace is found.
Originally, this method are tried by Karo-sama . He has made a video for demostration.
For more details , you can find it in my wiki .
http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-and-Easy-Toner-Transfer-for-PCB-Making/
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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 57 comments
ARJOON says: Feb 15, 2011. 7:08 AM REPLY
A MORE effective method is using a G clamp. clamp your pcb to a pentium3 heat sink and put it on the gas stove for about 30s, even distribution of heat and
compressive strength
dagenius says: Jul 16, 2009. 5:25 PM REPLY
In the intro, you say that you must reverse the image. I disagree, for that is only true when you are using surface mount components. If you are using the
through hole variety, then the simple act of turning the pcb over to put the parts in the correct way will reverse it.
Unit042 says: Jan 19, 2011. 2:55 PM REPLY
You are right, but sometimes, the CAD program can flip it for you. Also, when doing through-hole components, the act of flipping the PCB does not fix
text. They have to be mirrored when on the bottom of the PCB.
The question of "mirror or not" can't really be definitively answered unless all those other variables are accounted for, which would make for a loooong
instructable.
In my etching experience, do a test print on regular paper, and do a thought experiment: imagine that regular paper as your transfer paper and work out
what needs flipping for your own setup. Then print on the transfer paper.
nightmissle says: Dec 27, 2010. 1:11 PM REPLY
A home-made etchant of 1 part Muriatic Acid (common 28%) to 2 parts Hydrogen Peroxide (common 3%) can be used. If Ferric Chloride is used check for it
at www.jamco.com p/n 70201.
CAUTION etchants creates harmful fumes, best done outside, using proper protections.
A suggestion about how to dispose of used Ferric Chloride etching solution. A current law prohibits disposal of those chemicals in the sewer.
Before you pour it in to the sink, pour it in a plastic tank (I used a sealable freezer bag) and drop in some scraps of old steel nails, screws, small, nuts, bolts,
etc., and let it stay for a few days. It will turn the hazardous mix of copper chloride and Ferric Chloride (FeCl3) into copper powder (sludge) that settles on the
bottom, and a non-etching and non-corrosive solution of FeCl2.
After separation of solution of FeCl2, mix it with solution of soda (Na2CO3 used as detergent) in a flat tray lined with plastic film. It will turn FeCl2 into
Fe(CO3) (insoluble rusty mud) and NaCl (harmless cooking salt). After drying outdoor whole dry rusty powder could be wrapped in plastic film and disposed
of in the normal trash container.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-and-Easy-Toner-Transfer-for-PCB-Making/
DemonSpawn says: Dec 15, 2009. 12:55 PM REPLY
what do you maen by the "toner side" of the paper? and du you have to print this with a inkjet or lazer?
Wilzyx says: Nov 9, 2010. 4:16 PM REPLY
You have to use a laser print because:
* Lazer transfers by heat.
* Ink dissolves in water, so when you attempt to etch it, the ink will dissolve it in water.
The toner side of the paper is the side of the paper that has the pattern printed on. Lots of videos on youtube that shows this procedure. GL
ahowell16 says: Nov 9, 2010. 3:23 AM REPLY
you use lazer as the ink particles that sre present are more likely to produce a better finished product.
Mike44 says: Feb 15, 2010. 11:10 AM REPLY
A laser printer is always required. This is because laser ink contains about 50% plastic in it, so by applying the heat it allows the plastic to melt onto the
copper board. Removing the heat allows the plastic to harden again. Normal ink jet ink doesn't contain plastic, so no matter how much heat you apply,
you will always be able to wipe away the ink!
Wilzyx says: Nov 9, 2010. 4:14 PM REPLY
I had almost given up making my own PCB without any fancy equipment until I read this instructable.
I've tried dozens of ways using standard A4 copy paper. I've tried ironing it, I've tried yelling at it, hitting it, whileas it only makes incomplete routes, requiring
lots of rework with knife/rerouting.
The magazine paper idea worked out GREAT!! I've just finished my first etching proper PCB with all routes intact, no short circuits etc, even the tiniest ones
going between IC pins seem fine! Can't wait to drill/solder this baby, but that'll have to wait till tomorrow.
Thanks.
j39305 says: Nov 12, 2009. 7:29 PM REPLY
I have used 'recycled' CD-label backing paper with success. Just remove all the remaining adhesive-backed labels and everything else from the waxy paper
it was stuck to. Then use the waxy side for the transfer. The wax isn't enough to interfere with the circuit traces. Didn't seem to harm my old LJ2100 either.
sosoft says: Nov 4, 2010. 5:29 AM REPLY
I had better results with 'recycled' backing paper for car or window labels, used in graphic studio. It's more waxed.
saone says: Sep 29, 2010. 9:31 PM REPLY
i can only use laser printer for printing the circuit?
ziggalo says: Jul 10, 2010. 1:19 AM REPLY
What's the difference between "matte" paper and just plain old, regular printer paper? sorry if that's a stupid question
bricabracwizard says: Aug 29, 2010. 11:14 PM REPLY
Matte paper has a shinier surface because it is slightly waxed, whereas plain paper usually doesn't contain any fillers.
tomtortoise says: Jun 10, 2010. 1:43 PM REPLY
I was wondering where you got your ferrum chloride if you got it at a store or online and also what are some other etchants that can be used?
ziggalo says: Jul 10, 2010. 1:19 AM REPLY
do you have a MarVac's store nearby? the one by my house carried ferric chloride
Computerman29 says: Apr 8, 2010. 4:14 AM REPLY
Hello All,
I had ZERO success with ANY toner transfer methods until I tried these two things together:
1) After scrubbing the copper board, drop it into the etching solution for a few seconds. Remove and rinse. Be careful not to touch the copper after it is
dipped/rinsed. It roughens up the surface and makes the toner stick much better. It also removes any deep-down dirt that the scrubbing missed.
2) When repairing traces with a "sharpie", roast the board on your iron for about 20-30 sec. to make sure the "sharpie" ink is completely dry, then etch.
I use a beat-up HP Laserjet 6L, press-n-peel blue with my iron on about 3/4 full heat and moderate pressure, and get great results. Your millage will vary.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-and-Easy-Toner-Transfer-for-PCB-Making/
Experiment a bit. It is probably different with photo paper, but try the above tricks. Good luck!
cencia76 says: Jul 3, 2007. 8:19 PM REPLY
Hi, do you mind if I ask you where I can purchase a decent PCB board for the above application? You have mentioned a FR4 Silver Coating PCB. Is this a
good choice? If so, where do you think I can look for it? Any suggestion will be appreciate it. Massimo.
dowd95 says: Jul 24, 2009. 9:18 AM REPLY
radio shack or radioshack.com sells copperclad one or two sided boards for like 4-5 bucks
winchester883 says: Aug 29, 2007. 10:44 PM REPLY
When I did some art stuff with etched pcb's I bought from this brand. Their site has all the stuff you should need. It should be under "copper clad boards"
in their search by product name menu. Then you should find a online distributor and order to your hearts content.
http://www.mgchemicals.com/index.html
this is the actual company that i ordered from
http://www.alliedelec.com/Default.asp
hilarycheng says: Jul 3, 2007. 10:29 PM REPLY
I have brought it at Hong Kong from some sort of electronic parts shop. I donno any internet shop have selling it.
0_Nvd_0 says: Jul 20, 2009. 11:17 PM REPLY
Thank you very much. Now I know what Acetone is; nail polish remover. I have also cleared the toner by scratching the board with a used and blunt razor.
dhnobles says: Jul 16, 2009. 6:02 AM REPLY
If you can get you hands on an old HP plotter (good luck though) they work great for making circuits and you can buy the pens for them that are actually
resist pens. The nice thing about the plotters is that you can adjust the height of the printing surface thereby letting you print directly onto the copper with no
intermediate steps.
MeisterMarkus says: Oct 16, 2008. 5:19 AM REPLY
I had very good results using a steam-iron; the steam presses the toner onto the copper and the paper gets off real easy; no need to soak/peal/rub the paper
bombmaker2 says: Jan 4, 2009. 5:43 PM REPLY
I'm doing that right now but the iron leaked and tore the paper a bit it seems to have worked
bombmaker2 says: Jan 4, 2009. 6:47 PM REPLY
wrong tried it three more times and it still sucks
matador29b says: Jul 14, 2009. 2:41 PM REPLY
I found that this shrinks the image a bit, not good for surface mount chips
worldgnat says: Jul 14, 2008. 8:25 PM REPLY
Just a suggestion: if you find a broken trace you can fix it with a Sharpie marker (or so I hear).
440hertz says: Jun 21, 2009. 8:00 AM REPLY
good instructable. Magazine paper does work well, or the semi glossy junk mail. You can buy special 'press and peel' paper for toner transfer, its blue on
one side and it is very good for fine traces as you just peel off after ironing and it leaves no residue, it's more expensive though. I leave the toner on until
I have drilled the board and ready to solder, then rub it off with 1200 grit wet and dry sandpaper, leaves the copper nice and clean for easy soldering if
you don't tin your boards.
n0ukf says: Nov 7, 2008. 9:34 AM REPLY
Sharpies work well for repairing traces, also for hand-drawing circuit traces directly on the board for etching.
bombmaker2 says: Jan 3, 2009. 1:59 PM REPLY
I usually draw mine for a simple circuit
http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-and-Easy-Toner-Transfer-for-PCB-Making/
bombmaker2 says: Jan 4, 2009. 6:47 PM REPLY
or I use PCB123 to design it
conrad2468 says: Mar 10, 2009. 9:23 PM REPLY
Id thank you but i have a mac......):
rippinblaise says: May 5, 2009. 1:26 PM REPLY
try using cadsoft eagle it works well for designing circuits and it works on windows, mac, and linux here's an example for what it can do
this is a circuit to a tesla coil i'm making
one transistor tesla coil.pdf(298x420) 7 KB
one transistor tesla coil board.pdf(298x420) 7 KB
bombmaker2 says: Mar 11, 2009. 3:52 PM REPLY
ok
YummyPancakes says: Mar 23, 2008. 11:20 AM REPLY
Me and dad did it with a laser printer, and it didn't work so well. I didn't know that it worked better with Inkjet. We could have saved $49!
n0ukf says: Nov 7, 2008. 9:37 AM REPLY
Try printing on the same paper a second time, doubling the toner thickness.
magician13134 says: Apr 5, 2008. 7:26 PM REPLY
It doesn't. You can't use an inkjet, he's recommending inkjet paper, but it's the toner you're after, exclusively from lasers.
bombmaker2 says: Jan 4, 2009. 5:42 PM REPLY
Just go to Staples or Office Depot and ask for about 5 copies
thatonekid says: Jul 29, 2008. 11:20 AM REPLY
if you do not have an old printer that uses toner, can an inkjet printer be used? does the paper have to be glossy or will regular printer paper work?
Junkyard John says: Aug 8, 2008. 7:15 PM REPLY
Laser printers print with plastic toner. I don't want to get into the nitty gritty details because I'm not knowledgeable enough, but and inkjet will not work.
The ink from and inkjet soaks into the paper, and does not bond to itself. Toner, on the other hand, is plastic-based, so a little heat will remove it from the
paper substrate it was printed on. I had the same problem, and had to go to Staples and have them do the copies for me. It really wasn't that bad.
Dandymon says: Jun 29, 2008. 1:28 PM REPLY
Use Magazine paper! I have spent a lot of money trying numerous photo and inkjet papers with little success, the toner won't stick to them. Any periodical or
womans magazine with the glossy-ish squeeky paper works a treat! It doesn't matter that the pages have pictures and text on them, they don't get
transfered, just the toner does. The thicker pages work better through the printer, but don't savage your printer with glossy card. It really does work - tyr it, i
know you've got a copy of TV weekly or Marie Claire sitting there doing nothing! If not, go swipe one from the doctor's surgery, they've got loads ;o)
dsandds2003 says: Jun 3, 2008. 7:48 AM REPLY
I have always used OOO steel wool to clean the toner off the board. Doesn't damage anything. also helps the solder stick better also.
dephr says: Apr 23, 2008. 2:36 AM REPLY
if you like ultra-super-cheap methods, instead of using Acetone to remove the toner try getting some plain paper and ironing it back off! you can eventually
melt it all off onto different spots on the paper, it just takes a bit of time. very handy if you don't have any acetone ;)
CoolKoon says: Jan 3, 2008. 5:02 PM REPLY
If there are some small errors in the transfer, you can fix it with an alcohol-based marker. It worked for me.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-and-Easy-Toner-Transfer-for-PCB-Making/
amplificar says: Dec 9, 2007. 6:29 AM REPLY
I found a miraculous fix for bad transfers, that have gaps: Wiggle a desoldered/clean, low power (approx. 15W) soldering iron across a gap to fill it. The iron
melts the toner and spreads it where the tip touches. *Works best where toner rubbed off - not as effective where no toner met the surface to begin with.
grg12 says: Jun 11, 2007. 4:54 PM REPLY
Im using something called "chalk paper" (looks like Glossy but without any plastic) and washing powder solution to remove paper after irioning - after 5
minute bath it releases without any scraping. Works with magazine paper too
kiwisaft says: Apr 6, 2007. 1:46 PM REPLY
baking paper works fine i think
hilarycheng says: Apr 6, 2007. 6:42 PM REPLY
have u tried it ? :P
kiwisaft says: Apr 19, 2007. 7:52 AM REPLY
not on PCBs but on a t-shirt - see here: http://www.instructables.com/id/ERRONEEF06ECIL2/
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