Natural Skin Care

WellBeing Australasias leading natural health and livi ng magazine
1 Natural Ski ncare

This Special Report was written for WellBeing Magazine - Australasias leading natural health and living magazine. This and
many other WellBeing Special Reports are available for free download at Wellbeing.com.au. To receive the latest information
subscribe to WellBeing at Universalshop.com.auor contact us on 1300 303 414.
Natural
Skincare
A WellBeing Special Report
By Carla Oates
2 Natural Ski ncare
Contents
1. The structure of skin and ageing Page 3
Protecting the skin
The sun
Free radicals
2. What should you put on your skin? Page 5
Essential Oils
Plant hormones
Unrefined vegetable and nut oils
Sun protection
3. Inner Beauty feeding your skin Page 7
Alpha lipoic acid (ALA)
Essential fatty acids (EFA)
Antioxidants
Vitamins
Minerals
4. Whats your skin type? Page 11
Normal
Oily
Dry
Sensitive
Other
5. Treatment oils for the skin Page 13
Oils for every skin type
Stress and the skin
6. Your skincare routine Page 14
How to care for your skin
Skincare around the eyes
3 Natural Ski ncare
The skin is usually the first organ to show signs of ageing. How quickly this occurs depends
on many factors including genetics and lifestyle. However, the ageing process can be
slowed significantly if you address your health holistically. I refer to this as the skin trilogy:
what you apply to your skin; what goes into your body; and your state of mind. To achieve
healthy, glowing skin you need to aim for harmony within your whole body.
Whats so appealing about youthful skin is the clarity and vital energy it radiates. However,
this vitality can be achieved at any age, whether youre 35 or 65, if youre careful with your
lifestyle: eat a diet rich in organic and biodynamic foods; employ the healing and rejuvenating
qualities of botanicals in skincare; have facials and massages; swim in saltwater; get
controlled sun exposure, exercise and good sleep; drink plenty of purified water for
detoxification; achieve a balance between work and play; laugh a lot; and cultivate inner
peace and contentment. Feeling comfortable in your own skin will give you a radiance that no
amount of cosmetics can replicate.
THE STRUCTURE OF SKIN & AGEING
The skin is divided into two main layers: the exterior epidermis and the dermis beneath. The
stratum corneum (the horny, outermost layer of the epidermis) comprises dead cells that are
flat and scale-like in shape and arranged in overlapping layers to create a waterproof-like
barrier.
Beneath these layers is the germinative or basal cell layer, where new cells constantly form
and old ones are pushed to the surface. The old cells are then shed when you rub against
sheets and pillows or removed when you cleanse and exfoliate your skin. When youre young
this rejuvenation process occurs about every four weeks. As you mature it slows significantly.
The dermis is made up of a connective tissue framework in which blood vessels, nerves,
glands, cells and the proteins collagen and elastin are embedded, providing strength,
resilience and flexibility to the skin. Unlike the epidermis, the dermis is vascular and provides
the skin as a whole with energy, nutrients and water.
When youre young, collagen is mattress-like firm and bouncy and elastin is flexible.
As you mature, collagen breaks down, the elastin fibres fragment and both substances cross-
link and become matted like a coarsely knit jumper. The skin then becomes less able to take
up moisture, collagen breaks down and elastin loses flexibility. The subcutis (the innermost
layer of the skin comprising a network of fat and collagen) then begins to shrink. The
epidermis responds by becoming wrinkled and furrowed.
Other factors besides advancing age contribute to the rapid cross-linkage and dismantling of
collagen: poor nutrition, poor elimination of toxins, lack of oxygen and moisture, weak
circulation, hormonal changes, emotional stress, environmental toxins, cigarettes, alcohol,
dehydration, medications, synthetic chemicals in cosmetics, congestion of the bodys systems,
drinking impure tap water, swimming in chlorinated water, ultraviolet radiation, emotional
burdens and inherited factors. The more stress you put on your body the more the collagen
breaks down and the elastin loses flexibility.
4 Natural Ski ncare
Protecting the skins acid mantle
The skin acts as a barrier between your internal environment and the external world,
protecting your body from physical damage, toxins, pollutants, invasion by micro-organisms
and ultraviolet light. It also assists in the elimination of toxins from the body and therefore
plays an important role in your overall health and wellbeing.
The protective acid mantle on the epidermis is thriving with good bacteria, water and lipids
(oils) that keep the skin healthy and balanced. Maintaining the health of the acid mantle with
gentle, natural skincare is important, as an imbalance of this delicate ecosystem can
contribute to many skin conditions, including dermatitis and acne. The acid mantle acts as the
skins gatekeeper. If it breaks down, harsh synthetic chemicals, germs and bacteria can
penetrate the skin more easily and compromise your health and the supporting structures of
the skin.
The sun friend or foe?
Guarding against the suns ultraviolet rays is one of the first steps to maintaining healthy
skin. UVB rays cause visible sunburn and UVA rays penetrate the skin, causing cellular
damage that accumulates over time. UVA rays are insidious no redness occurs but the
cumulative damage gives rise to visible signs of ageing. These include textural changes,
reduced barrier function, hyperpigmentation, fine and deep wrinkles, impairment of the skins
immune function and increased incidence and severity of skin disorders like rosacea and
skin cancer.
Controlled exposure to sunlight is important, though, as the body needs it to synthesise
vitamin D, essential for the absorption of calcium and therefore healthy bones and teeth.
Controlled exposure can also have a therapeutic effect on skin complaints such as acne and
dermatitis.
Free radicals
Free radicals are oxidising agents produced as part of the bodys immune response. If left to
roam freely they can overload the cells and cause damage. The greatest damage tends to
occur when your natural defences are low and the first signs are usually seen in the skin
with early wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone. Free-radical triggers include
ultraviolet radiation, pollution, poor diet, refined foods, fried and burnt foods, processed
cooking oils, alcohol, cigarettes, synthetic chemicals and stress. Antioxidants ingested and
applied to the skin can provide protection from free-radical scavengers.
Inflammation
After an injury (for example, sunburn), infection or the application of a harsh product, your
skin becomes warm and red the result of inflammation. Inflammation can be beneficial to
the skin in the short term but prolonged inflammation causes free-radical damage and cell
wall deterioration. Its important to use gentle, soothing ingredients, both topically and
internally, to help calm any inflammation that may arise.
5 Natural Ski ncare
WHAT SHOULD YOU PUT ON YOUR SKIN?
Your skin is like the rest of your body: to thrive and flourish it needs to be fed a variety of
nutrients. Natural skincare involves the application of biological substances derived from
living plants and mineral sources that havent undergone any synthetic processes. Minerals,
and plants that contain active substances such as vitamins, minerals, alkaloids, saponins,
antioxidants and tannins, can be employed for protecting, healing, balancing, hydrating,
fortifying and rejuvenating the skin. Many of these ingredients are easily absorbed deep into
the skin where they can improve skin metabolism, accelerate cell functioning and affect
collagen and elastin.
Essential oils
When applied to the skin, essential oils are cleansing, healing, balancing, antiseptic and
anti-fungal. They help speed up the removal of old skin cells and promote the growth of new
ones. They improve muscle tone and blood circulation and help eliminate waste, reduce
inflammation, regulate sebum production and alleviate emotional stress. (Sebum is the oily
substance secreted by the sebaceous glands. It provides a thin film of fat to the skin to slow
water evaporation and also has an antibacterial effect.)
The stimulating properties of essential oils oxygenate the blood, energise cells and promote
regeneration. The nutrients and proteins in essential oils help maintain collagen and elastin.
The small molecules of essential oils are easily dissolved by the sebaceous fat and can
penetrate the skin to affect the deeper tissue and organs. (See Treatment oils for the skin
below.)
Plant hormones
Plants possess their own healing hormones. When a plant is damaged, sap travels to the
injured area, sealing the wound and accelerating new cell growth. Plant hormone extracts
have the same healing and rejuvenating effects when applied to your skin. Calendula,
chamomile, arnica, comfrey and aloe vera are just some of the plants rich in these healing
hormones.
Certain plants contain hormones that mimic oestrogen and affect collagen and tissue. They
have a tautening and rejuvenating effect on the skin and are found in soybeans and soymilk,
wild yam, black cohosh, flaxseed, chaste berry, red clover and a variety of beans and cereal
brans. The essential oils of sage, verbena, hops, fennel and eucalyptus also contain these
plant hormones.
Certain vegetable oils, such as avocado and soybean, are rich in phytosterols, a type of
plant hormone that increases collagen synthesis in the skin. Phytosterols improve skin healing
and help minimise scarring and inflammation.
Unrefined vegetable and nut oils
Pure vegetable oils, fats and waxes are extracted from the seeds, kernels, nuts and other
parts of plants. These lipids are highly emollient and rich in essential fatty acids,
antioxidants, phytosterols, vitamins and minerals. They can penetrate deep into the dermal
6 Natural Ski ncare
layer and are used in cosmetics to soften, smooth, calm, moisturise and regenerate the skin,
prevent moisture loss and restore lipid balance. Such oils include jojoba, sweet almond,
apricot kernel, soybean, coconut, olive, rosehip, evening primrose, avocado, borage,
macadamia, calendula-infused and wheatgerm, along with cocoa butter and shea butter.
Soy isoflavones
Protein extracts of soybean and soymilk contain oestrogen-like substances called
isoflavones, which protect the skin against sun damage and may increase the production of
hyaluronic acid (a substance that reduces wrinkles by binding to water molecules in the
skin). They may also help lighten age spots.
Phospholipids
Soybean-derived lecithin is a well-known phospholipid, a substance with great ability to
attract and hold water. Soybean phospholipids contain a high percentage of essential amino
acids that play a role in the synthesis of collagen and elastin fibres. They are often used as
emulsifiers in natural skincare products.
Ceramides
Ceramides are skin lipids that also exist in beans, flax seeds, sunflower seeds, rice grains
and cows milk. They form the epidermal barrier and stick the horny cells together like mortar
holding bricks together, giving the skin its smooth, intact surface and protecting it from water
loss and dehydration. Ceramides are used in the prevention of skin disorders and diseases.
Marine extracts
Sea plants boast the largest range of minerals of any organism and are used in skincare
preparations for their cell regenerative properties and ability to attract and retain water. They
are soothing, healing and anti-inflammatory. Add powdered kelp to your face masks or dip
sheets of nori into warm water before pasting them on your face as a mask. Rich in
nutrients, spirulina makes an excellent skincare ingredient when applied externally or
ingested.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)
AHAs are substances naturally derived from fruits (including citrus, tomatoes and
strawberries), sugar cane, milk and yoghurt. They break down the intercellular glue holding
dead skin cells together, helping to increase skin cell turnover rate and revealing a brighter,
softer, smoother-looking complexion. AHAs may also stimulate increased
glycosaminoglycans (substances in the skin that are important for the maintenance of
collagen and elastin) in the collagen matrix, thereby boosting the amount of moisture in the
skin and minimising fine wrinkles.
BHAs are said to be gentler on the skin. Salicylic acid is an effective BHA found in willow
bark and meadowsweet.
Note: High percentages of AHAs in skincare products can damage the skin. Avoid sun
exposure after using AHAs as they can make the skin sun-sensitive.
7 Natural Ski ncare
Proteolytic enzymes
Proteolytic enzymes, which can digest dead or diseased protein material without harming
living, healthy cells, make gentle but effective skin exfoliants. A commonly used proteolytic
enzyme is papain, which is found in papaya, especially green papaya. Regular use
enhances the smoothness, clarity, moisture and firmness of the complexion. Rub the inside
of the papaya skin on your damp skin. When it has dried, rinse it off.
Clays
French Argiletz clays and Australian clays (slightly stronger) are cleansing, detoxifying,
drawing, exfoliating, healing, soothing, toning and rejuvenating. Green clay, the most
absorbent, is suited to acneous, oily and neglected skin. Pink is purifying and toning and is
suitable for all skin types. Red helps treat sensitive skin and broken capillaries. White, the
gentlest, is soothing, softening and suitable for all skin types. Yellow is recommended for
restoring tired and neglected skin of all types.
Sun protection
Protect your skin from environmental assault and free-radical damage by wearing a good
natural sun block. Look for products that use the physical blockers (as opposed to chemical
sunscreens) micronised zinc oxide or micronised titanium dioxide.
Note: Avoid wearing certain essential oils in the daytime as they render the skin
photosensitive. These include bergamot, angelica root, bitter orange, cold-pressed lime and
grapefruit.
INNER BEAUTY FEEDING YOUR SKIN
I often recommend people see a naturopath before they see a beautician, as good skin
begins in the stomach. The skin, hair and nails are the last stop for essential nutrients that
are distributed to the internal organs first.
A naturopath will help you reassess your diet and check that youre digesting and
assimilating nutrients properly. Theyll work with you to ensure your body is eliminating toxins
efficiently so they dont come flooding through your skin and cause skin conditions. Theyll
also help you sort out any hormonal imbalances that contribute to skin conditions such as
acne.
Start your beauty regime in the morning by drinking a glass of water laced with lemon juice,
which is cleansing for the liver and aids digestion and the elimination of toxins.
Note: Fad dieting results in loss of muscle tissue, leading to a drawn complexion. Eating the
right foods and fats like omega-3s will help you burn body fat but prevent the loss of wanted
fat and muscle in your face.
Alpha lipoic acid (ALA)
Like oxidisation, glycation is another primary cause of premature ageing of the skin. Eating
carbohydrates with a high glycaemic index causes blood sugar levels to rise. Sustained high
levels of sugars cause glucose molecules to stick to protein collagen. This impairs the
functioning of collagen and can cause age spots as well as loss of the skins elasticity and
premature wrinkling.
8 Natural Ski ncare
ALA helps to stop glycation and has been touted the universal antioxidant because its
both water- and fat-soluble, which makes it able to neutralise free radicals in both the fatty and
watery regions of the cells. It promotes the antioxidant network it directly recycles and
extends the metabolic lifespan of other antioxidants, says naturopath Alison Cassar. Natural
sources of ALA are red meat, spinach, liver, tomatoes and brewers yeast.
Topically: ALA is able to reach and protect both the water and lipid portions of the skin with
potent antioxidant benefits. It plumps out wrinkles and gives the skin a healthy glow. It is also
used to treat pigmentary disorders.
Essential fatty acids (EFAs), or vitamin F
EFAs are polyunsaturated fatty acids the body cannot synthesise, so they must be derived
from foods such as vegetable, nut and fish oils. EFAs are essential for the building, growth
and maintenance of cells. They regulate the production of prostaglandins, which mediate in
the process of inflammation and increase blood circulation (and therefore oxygen) to the
skin. EFAs help maintain the fluidity and integrity of skin cell membranes, increase dermal
hydration and rejuvenate the skin.
Supplementation with oils containing gamma linolenic acid, or GLA, (like evening primrose)
and omega-3 fats (found in coldwater fish and flaxseed oil) improves skin texture and helps
manage skin conditions such as eczema, dry skin, acne and psoriasis.
Topically: See Unrefined vegetable and nut oils above.
Vitamin A
Vitamin A (retinol) is effective in healing wounds, treating acne and psoriasis and helping to
reduce scarring and wrinkles. Food sources are red meat (especially beef), chicken liver and
dairy products. However, beta-carotene, a precursor for vitamin A, may be a safer way to
reap the benefits of this vitamin, especially for children, pregnant women and those with liver
or kidney problems. Beta-carotene is found in most dark-green leafy vegetables and most
orange vegetables and fruits.
Topically: Retinoic acid, or tretinoin a derivative of vitamin A is a popular skincare
ingredient as it helps increase the skins elasticity, stimulates collagen, reduces signs of
photo-ageing, clears up acne and reduces scarring, hyperpigmentation, fine lines and
wrinkles. Rosehip oils retinoic acid content, along with its high concentration of EFAs, may
contribute to its formidable cell- and scar-healing effects minus the skin irritation and
redness retinol causes.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is required for wound healing and preventing bruising, and is essential for
collagen production. Its an excellent detoxifier and potent antioxidant. Food sources are
citrus fruits, parsley, tomatoes, strawberries, cantaloupe, broccoli and cabbage.
Topically: Vitamin C stimulates the synthesis of collagen. It helps to minimise fine lines,
scars and wrinkles and reduce hyperpigmentation. There are many forms of vitamin C in
skincare products, but L-ascorbic acid is the only useful form to apply to the skin.
9 Natural Ski ncare
The B vitamins
The B vitamins, which include biotin and niacin, coexist in many of the same foods and often
work together to maintain metabolism and the health of the skin, hair, muscles, immune
system, nervous system, eyes, liver and digestive system. Deficiencies can cause
dermatitis, seborrhoea (excessive secretion of sebum by the sebaceous glands), acne and
wrinkles. Food sources are eggs, milk, liver, whey, almonds, beef heart, mushrooms,
wholegrains, peas, peanuts, sunflower and sesame seeds, salmon, walnuts, peanuts,
wheatgerm, bran, brown rice, molasses, legumes, offal and leafy green vegetables.
Biotin (a B-group vitamin also known as vitamin H) is an important nutrient for the growth of
tissues and the regulation of sebaceous gland secretion. A deficiency can lead to extreme
drying of the skin and a sallow or dullish-grey complexion. Biotin is found in egg yolk,
soybeans, organ meats, brewers yeast, cheese, barley and milk.
Topically: Biotin helps moisturise a dry complexion. Niacin has anti-inflammatory, skin-
lightening and rejuvenating properties. Vitamin B
5
assists in the treatment of acne and
wrinkles.
Antioxidants
Antioxidants are the skins warriors against premature ageing. They intercept free radicals
before they can damage the skin. They help enhance our own natural SPF (sun protection
factor) when ingested and applied topically.
Carotenoids and flavonoids are powerful antioxidants found in brightly coloured fruits and
vegetables. The more vibrant, the higher the levels of antioxidants. Such foods include
pumpkin, papaya, tomato, watermelon, rockmelon, blueberries and spinach and the herbs
calendula and rosehip. Catechins are protective antioxidants found in green, red, black and
white teas.
Other powerful antioxidants are vitamins A, C and E, selenium, olive leaf extract, lycopene,
grapeseed extract (also enhances the potency of vitamin C), co-enzyme Q10 and alpha lipoic
acid.
Note: Dont take vitamin A supplements during pregnancy without the advice of a doctor.
Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol)
Vitamin E is the bodys most important fat-soluble antioxidant, especially for cell
membranes. It protects other fat-soluble vitamins from oxidative damage, is necessary for
tissue repair, is a natural anticoagulant and promotes healing. It has a protective effect when
applied topically and ingested. Food sources are vegetable oils, nuts, wheatgerm oil,
mustard greens, chard, sunflower seeds, turnip greens, almonds and spinach.
Vitamin K
Vitamin K is necessary for the bodys blood-clotting mechanism. It aids the healing of
capillaries (blood vessels that have enlarged or burst to show through the skin). It helps
reduce dark circles under the eyes and aids in the fading of hyperpigmentation and the
treatment of rosacea. Food sources are chlorophyll, green tea, turnip greens, broccoli,
spinach, cabbage, asparagus and dark-green lettuce.
10 Natural Skincare
Topically: Dermatologists have found vitamin K to be successful for treating dark circles
under the eyes and bruising on the face, possibly because it stimulates blood flow to the area.
Minerals
Zi nc
Zinc repairs damaged tissue, protects against susceptibility to skin infections and improves
skin conditions such as acne, psoriasis, eczema and rosacea. Without zinc, vitamin A could
not be released from the liver. Food sources are lean meat, seafood, eggs, soybeans,
peanuts, wheat bran, cheese, oysters, brewers yeast, kelp, liver, mushrooms, nuts,
pumpkin seeds and sunflower seeds.
Topically: Zinc protects the skin from ultraviolet light, speeds healing and is antibacterial,
making it an effective ingredient in acne preparations.
Selenium
Selenium is a critical component of the bodys own antioxidant enzymes. It protects cell
membranes and red blood cells from free-radical damage. Selenium is found in Brazil nuts
(high levels), tuna, beef, cod, turkey, eggs, oatmeal, chicken and rice.
Sil ica
Touted the mineral of youth because its one of the most vital elements of tissues, silica is
essential for maintaining the elasticity, firmness and strength of connective tissue. Lack of
silica will hinder the skins quick healing and lower elasticity and water content. Silica is
found in the herb horsetail (a rich source) and grains like oats.
Topically: Silica is widely used in skin-firming preparations for the face, body and bust.
Co-enzyme Q10
This nutrient helps to regulate energy production in cells. Its a powerful antioxidant whose
application both internally and externally before sun exposure protects against sun damage.
It also helps to stimulate cell turnover and reduce the appearance of fine wrinkles. Olive leaf
extract and certain vegetable oils such as soy and canola contain this nutrient.
Glucosamine
Glucosamine is produced in the body to help manufacture specialised molecules called
glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), which are important for the development of connective tissue
and collagen. Glucosamine supplements are derived from the processed shells of
crustaceans.
Topically: Glucosamine is said to stimulate collagen production.
Amino acids
These are the main building blocks of protein for cell renewal and growth (including collagen
and elastin) and the maintenance of the bodys functions. Signs of an amino acid deficiency
are skin problems such as blemishes or a dull, devitalised complexion. Meat, poultry, fish,
eggs and dairy products are rich in amino acids.
11 Natural Skincare
Topically: Amino acids increase the moisture content of the skin, making it smooth and
soft. They are thought to help other ingredients penetrate the skin.
Probiotics and prebiotics
Probiotics are the friendly bacteria in the gastrointestinal tract that help support the immune
system and fight off disease-causing bacteria such as candida. They clean out the digestive
tract and therefore promote a clearer complexion.
Many microbiologists believe that a shortage of probiotic bacteria in the gastrointestinal tract
is the underlying cause of premature ageing. Supplements can help with acne, psoriasis and
other skin disorders. Prebiotics (found in certain foods like tomatoes, onions, J erusalem
artichokes and chickpeas) feed the friendly bacteria.
Together, supplements of probiotics and prebiotics are a powerful symbiotic combination
that can help you maintain a healthy digestive system. Look for the proven strains L Casei
immunitas and BB-12 Bifidobacterium bifidum.
Topically: Probiotics in skin cleansers, creams and masks soften, smooth and exfoliate the
skin, giving it a youthful appearance. For this reason, live yoghurt makes a great cosmetic.
Wheatgrass
Wheatgrass is a super, living food replete with vitamins A, B complex, C, E and K, many
trace elements, amino acids and around 30 enzymes. Its a powerful antioxidant and
detoxifier. Its high chlorophyll content cleanses the liver, tissues and cells, aids in tissue
repair, improves digestion and purifies and oxygenates the blood. It is anti-inflammatory and
antibacterial when ingested or applied to the skin. It contains azelaic acid, which is
antibacterial and anti-inflammatory, making it helpful in the treatment of acne and rosacea.
Beta-glucans
Beta-glucans are polysaccharides found in oats, yeast, algae, mushrooms and barley. When
ingested and applied topically they are effective in stimulating the immune system,
protecting the skin against environmental pollutants, chemicals and ultraviolet radiation,
increasing the skins ability to heal itself and reducing visible signs of ageing such as
wrinkles.
WHATS YOUR SKIN TYPE?
Normal rare unless youre very young. It is soft, smooth, finely textured, supple and
balanced in both oil and moisture content. It has no enlarged pores, wrinkles or blemishes
and is firm and resilient.
The following skin types represent a state of imbalance:
Oily has a coarser texture with obvious enlarged pores. The skin may look sallow or
dingy and is prone to acne, blackheads and infection. It is greasy as a result of
12 Natural Skincare
overproduction of sebum, which can be caused by a number of factors including heredity,
poor diet, metabolic disorders, hormonal imbalances, insufficient skin hygiene or harsh
preparations that strip the skin of oil.
Dry usually delicate and fine-textured with no obvious pores. It is predisposed to facial
lines and wrinkles, lacks moisture or fat due to inadequate sebum secretion and is unable to
trap surface moisture. Often it feels tight, parched and flaky.
Combinati on a mixture of two or more skin types; often dry patches with oily patches on
the T-zone (forehead, nose and chin) where the sebaceous glands are most prevalent. Each
area is best treated according to its particular needs.
Sensi ti ve fine textured, translucent and often prone to lines and small surface veins. It
can suffer redness and irritation when exposed to allergens in the air, perfumes, lanolin and
pollen and is often more susceptible to eczema and dermatitis. People with this skin type are
often very sensitive and finely tuned, both physically and emotionally.
Dehydrated lacking in water, quickly wrinkled, drawn and often cold. May be caused by
insufficient fluid intake, poor lymphatic function, dieting, climatic conditions, central heating,
air-conditioning or lack of sebum. Both dry and oily skins can become dehydrated.
Mature or ageing prone to dryness, dehydration, wrinkles and lines, as it lacks oil and
moisture. The skin becomes flaccid, sags (with underlying fat shrinkage and skin loosening)
and looks dull. Growths and hyperpigmentation occur and small capillaries appear.
Acneous suffering from acne, a disease of the sebaceous glands and hair follicles. An
excess of sebum is produced and clogs the pores, forming blackheads. The pressure of this
sebum in the connective tissue increases and creates inflammations, abscesses or pimples.
Causes are usually hormonal or dietary. See Oily skin type above.
Broken capill aries appear as small, dilated, winding, bright-red blood vessels on the
cheeks, around the nose and sometimes on the chin. This occurs as a result of poor
elasticity of the capillary wall and gives the appearance of diffused or local redness. It is
aggravated by extremes of temperature, excessively hot or cold water, nervous or digestive
disorders, poor nutrition, saunas, exercise, drinking very hot liquids, spicy foods, blushing,
smoking, alcohol, synthetic chemicals and fragrances in cosmetics, aggressive scrubs and
alcohol-based toners and topical steroids.
Rosacea often misdiagnosed as adult acne. Typically, people with the condition will
experience inappropriate flushing not usually associated with sweating, and/or persistent
facial redness. Broken blood vessels on the cheeks are common and bouts of inflammation
that cause red papules or pustules may be experienced. (See Broken capillaries and
Acneous skin type above for what aggravates rosacea.)
Hyperpi gmentati on where patches of skin become darker than the surrounding skin. It
may be the result of a hormonal imbalance or, more commonly, sun exposure. It tends to
worsen with age, as sun damage accumulates and the skins ability to regenerate slows
13 Natural Skincare
down. It is caused by an increase in melanin production (the substance that gives your skin
its pigment).
Inflamed skin is more susceptible to hyperpigmentation, so its important to keep the skin
calm, well nourished and protected. Be diligent with sun protection and use ingredients that
promote the regeneration of cells, such as calendula-infused oil and rosehip oil (see
Vitamin A above).
Regular exfoliation is effective as it helps remove dead skin cells, giving a fresher, brighter
and more evenly toned complexion.
Vitamin C used topically is said to reduce hyperpigmentation. Arbutin, a natural compound
found in the leaves of plants such as cranberry, blueberry, bearberry and most pear plants, is
an effective melanin inhibitor, as are kojic acid (a byproduct of sake), azelaic acid (found in
oats, wheat, barley and wheatgrass), licorice root extract and mulberry bark extract.
TREATMENT OILS FOR THE SKIN
The following combinations of essential oils, carrier oils and infused oils help regenerate and
boost the skin while also treating specific conditions. Massage into the skin at night,
intermittently.
Oily skin: 5 tsp hazelnut, 5 tsp jojoba, 4 drops sandalwood, 3 drops mandarin, 3 drops
palmarosa.
Dry skin: 1 tbsp sweet almond, 2 tsp avocado, 2 tsp olive, 2 tsp wheatgerm, 4 drops
sandalwood, 3 drops geranium, 3 drops rose.
Combinati on ski n: 5 tsp jojoba, 5 tsp sweet almond, 10 drops lavender, 6 drops geranium,
4 drops neroli.
Sensi ti ve ski n, eczema and dermatitis: 5 tsp apricot kernel, 5 tsp jojoba, 3 drops
chamomile, 3 drops Atlas cedarwood, 2 drops lavender, 2 drops patchouli.
Dehydrated skin: 1 tbsp apricot kernel, 1 tbsp jojoba, 5 drops rose, 3 drops sandalwood,
2 drops palmarosa.
Mature skin: 1 tbsp jojoba, 2 tsp carrot-root-infused oil, 2 tsp evening primrose, 2 tsp
rosehip, 6 drops rose, 3 drops frankincense, 2 drops patchouli. (Macadamia nut oil is also an
effective treatment for dry, mature skin as it is high in palmitoleic acid, which closely
resembles human sebum.)
Acneous skin: 2 tbsp apricot kernel, 1 tbsp jojoba, 2 tsp rosehip, 4 drops carrot seed, 2
drops chamomile, 2 drops lavender, 2 drops tea tree.
Acne scars: 1 tbsp jojoba, 2 tsp rosehip, 2 tsp wheatgerm, 6 drops sandalwood, 4 drops
neroli, 4 drops lavender.
Devi tali sed ski n: 2 tbsp apricot kernel, 2 tsp wheatgerm, 5 drops geranium, 3 drops rose, 2
drops cypress.
Broken capi llaries and rosacea: 6 tsp calendula-infused oil, 1 tbsp rosehip, 4 drops rose,
2 drops chamomile, 3 drops cypress.
Hyperpi gmentati on: 1 tbsp calendula-infused oil, 1 tbsp rosehip, 5 drops celery, 5 drops
lavender, 5 drops lovage.
Stress and the skin
14 Natural Skincare
Not only does stress show in your facial expressions, it also weakens the skins protective
barrier. Elevated stress levels and lack of sleep cause hormonal fluctuations, the release of
toxins, the constriction of blood vessels and dehydration.
To manage your stress levels, see a naturopath to help you reassess your diet and lifestyle.
Accelerated stress levels may be a symptom of nutritional deficiencies, especially of the B-
complex vitamins essential for a healthy nervous system. Your naturopath may also
recommend you take herbs such as passionflower, hops and valerian. The long-chain omega-
3s help decrease the stress hormone cortisol and inflammation levels.
As stress promotes the formation of free radicals, which damage body tissues, especially
cell membranes, antioxidants taken orally are beneficial to the skin.
Regular exercise is a great antidote to stress. It increases your intake of oxygen, improves
circulation, lowers blood pressure, promotes restful sleep, induces perspiration and the
elimination of toxins and releases feelgood endorphins.
Great improvements in skin problems exacerbated by stress (for example, eczema) can be
achieved with simple relaxation practices such as meditation.
Add six drops of Bach Flower Rescue Remedy to 100ml of your moisturiser or facial oil.
Take a bottle of bergamot and lavender around with you and smell these essential oils as you
need them. Bergamot is uplifting and antidepressant and lavender is calming.
YOUR SKINCARE ROUTINE
Always apply skincare products in upward, circular motions and extend all treatments to the
neck and dcolletage.
Cleansing
Cleansing the skin helps rid it of the days buildup of dirt and grime and cellular waste. If you
dont cleanse properly, congestion occurs and outbreaks and imbalances result. Avoid
cleansing with harsh surfactants (like sodium lauryl sulfate) that strip the skin of its oils.
Milk is a gentle and effective cleanser as its full of skin-smoothing acids, lipids, vitamins and
minerals. For oily skin, use skim milk or buttermilk. For sensitive skin, use goats milk or
soymilk.
Vegetable and nut oils make excellent cleansers as they help dissolve dirt on the surface of
the skin. For oily skin, use lighter oils like jojoba excellent for balancing sebum regulation.
For dry, mature skin, use heavier oils like olive oil.
Liquid castile soap is unlike other soaps, which are very drying, and makes an excellent
cleanser. Add 10ml of vegetable oil to 100ml of castile soap for oily/combination skin. For
mature/dry skin types, add 40ml of oil. You can add 20 drops of essential oil to suit your skin
type. (See Treatment oils for the skin above for oil combinations.)
15 Natural Skincare
Exfoliating
You can exfoliate with AHAs, fruit enzyme peels or mechanical scrubs (using grains) to
eliminate dead surface cells and promote a fresher, smoother complexion. Removing these
ineffectual cells also increases the efficacy of topical treatments applied to the area. (See
Alpha hydroxy acids and Proteolytic enzymes above.)
If you prefer mechanical scrubs, you can make a great base scrub using cup fine
oatmeal, cup rice flour and 1 tbsp clay to suit your skin type (see Clays above). Other
grains work well, too, but you must grind them as fine as possible with a coffee grinder. You
can mix a little with water, herbal tea, yoghurt, fruit pulp or juice, or milk suited to your skin
type (see Cleansing above).
Avoid mechanical scrubs if you have very sensitive skin or broken capillaries. Use papaya
instead. Very fine oatmeal soaked in water or milk and used gently is also OK. Always be
gentle to your skin to avoid inflammation rub, dont scrub!
Toning
Toners applied after cleansing or using masks help to remove or dissolve any residue. They
also help stimulate circulation, restore the skins acid mantle, hydrate and refine the skin and
temporarily reduce pore size. Avoid alcohol-based toners that strip your skin of its natural
oils, overstimulating the sebaceous glands and making your skin far greasier than before.
Here are some ideas for natural toners:
Distilled witch-hazel is healing, astringent and good for all skin types except those
with rosacea. Add 4 drops lavender essential oil to a base toner of 100ml distilled
witch-hazel.
Floral waters make soothing, healing skin toners alone or as bases for adding other
ingredients. Herbal or purified water can also be used as a base toner.
Herbal tea infusions make great toners, especially cooled green tea, which is healing
and soothing for all skin types.
Green tea and apple juice together make a lovely toner suitable for all skin types
(make fresh as needed it will keep in the fridge for up to a week).
Aloe vera juice makes an excellent addition to a toner because of its astringent,
healing, regenerative and antiseptic properties.
Add 1 tsp apple cider vinegar to 100ml base toner to help restore the skins pH.
Add 1-2 tsp fruit juices such as apple and lemon to 100ml base toner to enhance your
toners skin-smoothing properties.
Add up to 5 drops of essential oil suited to your skin type to 100ml base toner (See
Treatment oils for the skin above). Shake well before using to disperse the oil
throughout the base.
Healing & regenerati ve floral toner
4 tbsp rose water
2 tsp aloe vera juice
10 drops citrus seed extract
Mix the ingredients well and store in a bottle in the fridge. It will last up to three months.
This toner is suitable for all skin types, including those with rosacea, and is effective for
relieving sunburn.
16 Natural Skincare
Appl ying masks
There are two types of masks: wet masks, which infuse ingredients into the skin and are
predominantly hydrating, soothing, healing and calming; and dry masks, which dry on the
skin and are predominantly extracting, purifying, stimulating and toning. Great mask
ingredients include:
Clays use a clay suited to your skin type (see Clays above). To make a paste
you can add herbal waters or purified water. Yoghurt, mashed fruit and fruit juice
make excellent additions to clays. You can add 1-2 drops of essential oil suited your
skin type per application of clay mask (see Treatment oils for the skin above).
Avocado full of good oils and nourishing to the skin, especially dry and mature
skin types.
Cabbage great for treating inflamed, pimpled skin. Dip a couple of cabbage leaves
into boiling water to soften them. Once cooled, place them on your face for 10
minutes.
Cornflour mix with a little water to make a soothing mask for irritated skin suffering
from eczema.
Honey boasts skin-smoothing, antiseptic and humectant (attracts and retains
moisture) properties. Manuka honey is extremely healing and has greater
antibacterial properties than tea-tree oil, making it excellent for treating acne, dry skin,
mature skin, eczema and dermatitis. Apply a fine layer to your skin or add it to your
skincare preparations.
Oatmeal and almond meal replete with nourishing and skin-smoothing nutrients,
they are great bases for wet ingredients and suitable for all skin types.
AHA fruit gel mask with green tea
2 tbsp green tea
1 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp apple juice
1-2 tbsp citrus pectin
Mix the tea and juices together well and slowly add the citrus pectin until you achieve the
desired gel consistency. Apply to a clean face. Leave for 10-15 minutes. Rinse off well.
This is an excellent mask for decongesting the pores and improving hydration, tone and
texture. Its suitable for all skin types. For those with sensitive skin or broken capillaries and
rosacea, omit the lemon juice.
Moisturising
Skin moisturisers help prevent dryness and dehydration while creating a protective barrier
against free radicals and moisture loss. They must contain oil and water (to keep the skins
surface layer soft and supple), emollients (to lock in moisture already present in the skin;
see Unrefined vegetable and nut oils above) and humectants (to bind water to the skin;
commonly used humectants are vegetable glycerine and honey). Moisturisers may also
contain essential oils to assist in the rejuvenation process. Avoid mineral oil in moisturisers
as it is occlusive and causes imbalances in the skin.
17 Natural Skincare
Regenerati ve moi sturiser
First (oil) phase
8g vegetable emulsifying wax
2 tsp calendula-infused vegetable oil
2g shea butter (omit for oily skin and add another tsp calendula-infused oil)
1 tsp rosehip oil
Second (water) phase
5 tbsp purified water or rose water
tsp vegetable glycerine
Third phase (actives and preservatives)
4 drops Amiox (an antioxidant that keeps the oil fresh)
20 drops olive leaf extract (optional)
16 drops citrus seed extract (helps preserve the water content)
20 drops lavender essential oil or a mix of oils to suit your skin type (see Treatment oils for
the skin above)
Mix together the ingredients of the first phase except the rosehip oil. Place them in a bain-
marie or similar and heat over medium temperature. Mix together the ingredients of the
second phase in a pot and heat over medium temperature. Once both phases have reached
65-70C, remove from heat. Quickly add the rosehip oil to the first phase mixture. Add the
second phase mixture to the first phase mixture, constantly stirring. At 40C add the
ingredients of the third phase. Mix thoroughly and keep mixing. When the mixture starts to
thicken, pour into jars. Seal the lids after allowing the cream to cool for 1-2 hours.
This moisturiser can be used on all skin types. It will last up to nine months, especially if
kept in the fridge. Those with oily skin need apply only a small amount.
Skincare around your eyes
The skin around your eyes is the most delicate. It lacks oil glands, which makes it prone to
wrinkles. The regular and very gentle application of light gels or oils will help keep the eye
area moisturised and protected. Putting cool pieces of cucumber or cooled chamomile
teabags over your eyes is great for calming puffiness. Certain ingredients such as vitamin K
and Centella asiatica (gotu kola) are helpful for dark circles under the eyes.
Eye oil with rosehip & carrot seed extract
30ml jojoba oil
20ml rosehip oil
2 drops carrot seed oil
Mix the oils together well and store in a small bottle. Apply small amounts around the orbital
bone very gently with your middle finger.
Carrot seed oil contains vitamin A and is also helpful for stimulating sebum, thus providing
much-needed moisture to the eye area.
18 Natural Skincare
Carla Oates is a natural beauty expert who writes a regular DIY beauty column for The Sunday
Telegraph and is the author of Feeding Your Skin (Lantern Books).

Natural Skin Care

Загружено:

Сведения о документе

Авторское право

Доступные форматы

Поделиться этим документом

Поделиться или встроить документ

Параметры публикации

Этот документ был вам полезен?

Это неприемлемый материал?

Авторское право:

Доступные форматы

Natural Skin Care

Загружено:

Авторское право:

Доступные форматы

WellBeing Australasias leading natural health and livi ng magazine

1 Natural Ski ncare

Вам также может понравиться