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A Quilt-It-Yourself Cloth Tote for Shopping and Travel

For the Joy of Sewing with Barbara Weiland


The Shoppers Fancy Tote

Materials: 44- or 54-wide fabric*


*40 of usable width after preshrinking; you
will have fabric scrap leftovers with wider
fabric.
5
/8 yard Fabric #1: Double-faced, quilted fabric;
if double-faced, quilted fabric is not available in fab-
ric combinations you like, choose two fabrics to quilt
together. See Quilt it Yourself on page 5 for
yardage, cutting and quilting directions for the fabric
for the tote bag body.
1 yard Fabric #2: Contrasting print (unquilted)
for the outer, divided and inner zipped pockets and
the upper-edge finish; this can be one of the two
fabrics in the quilted fabric if it is available as an
unquilted companion fabric;otherwise choose a
different coordinate.
5
/8 yard Fabric #3: Contrasting print (unquilted)
for the tote bottom, straps, and binding
Notions
1 yds. 1-wide belt stiffener or waistband
interfacing for the straps; if unavailable,
substitute a relatively firm 1- wide elastic
1 yds. -wide strips of fusible web
7-long nylon or polyester coil zipper, for the
inside pocket
Size 100 Jeans sewing machine needle
Optional: 1 yard contrasting narrow piping to trim
the edges of the bottom panel
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The Shoppers Fancy Tote

2011 Revised Barbara Weiland Talbert


Cutting
Refer to cutting layouts below to make best use of
the fabrics. Cut all pieces from a 42-wide single
layer of fabric.
IMPORTANT: If you are quilting your own fabrics
together, read the directions for Quilt-It-Yourself on
page 5 before you cut the fabrics (Fabrics A and B) and
the batting to create Fabric #1.
From Fabric #1 (double-faced quilted fabric):
2 pieces, each 17 x 20, for the tote body
From Fabric #2--unquilted contrast for the outer
pockets and upper-edge finish:
2 pieces, each 17 x 20, for the pockets;
1 strip, 4 x 42, for the upper-edge finish;
1 piece, 3 x 9, and 1 piece, 9 x 16, for
the inside zipped pocket.
*From Fabric #3--unquilted contrast for tote bot-
tom, straps, and binding:
1 piece, 12 x 17, for the bottom panel;
2 pieces, each 2 x 17, for binding the
outer pockets;
2 pieces, each 3 x 27, for the straps;
2 pieces, each 2 x 10, for binding the
edges of the inside zipped pocket.
*See cutting layout on page 2.
Double-faced, quilted
fabric is the backdrop
for contrasting divided
pockets and the bottom
panel on the outside of
this pretty tote. Use it
for round-the-town
shopping or as a roomy
carry-on for your travel
essentials. Inside, youll
find a zipped security
pocket.
For lots more fabric
options, check out
home dec fabrics to
make your own quilted
yardage (see page 5 for
how-tos).
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Fabric #1
Double-faced,
quilted fabric
17 x 20
Tote Body
17 x 20
Tote Body
17 x 20
Outer Pocket
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17 x 20
Outer Pocket
Fabric #2
Unquilted,
contrasting
print
4 x 42 Upper-edge trim
9 x 16
Inside Zipped
Pocket
Inside Zipped Pocket
3 x 9

2011 Revised Barbara Weiland Talbert barbara.weiland@yahoo.com


DUPLICATION/SHARING PROHIBITED
Tote Construction
Seams are wide, unless otherwise noted.
Tote Body and Outer Pockets
1. With wrong sides together, stitch the two quilt-
ed panels together along one set of short edges.
Press the seam open and topstitch both seam
allowances in place. This seam will be on the
outside of the tote to be covered by the bottom
panel.
2. Fold the 17 x 20 outer pocket panels in half
crosswise with wrong sides together so they mea-
sure 10 x 17. Press.
3. With wrong sides together, fold each
2 x 17 strip of Fabric #3 in half lengthwise and
press. Align the binding raw edges with the folded edge
of each pocket panel; stitch from the edge.
Press the binding toward the seam, then wrap it over
the seam allowance and press. On the right side of the
pocket, stitch in the ditch of the seam to catch the
binding in place on the underside.
4. Optional: Apply
narrow piping to
the 17-long edges
of the contrasting bot-
tom panel.
5. With right sides
together and raw
edges even, stitch
the pocket panels to
the bottom panel.
Press seams in the
direction of the
arrows.
6. Fold the pocket
panel in half with
raw edges even.
Make
1
/8-long snips
on both edges at
the fold.
7. Refer to the illustration at the top of the next
page.
Position the pocket panel face up on the right side of
the tote panel, matching the snip marks to the bot-
tom seamline. Pin in place. Machine-baste from
the raw edges. Topstitch from the bottom panel
seamlines through all layers. Topstitch through the
pocket panels as shown to make divided pockets.
If you want an undivided, larger pocket on one side
of the tote, topstitch only one panel.
2
Binding
Inner Pocket
Binding
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Fabric #3
Unquilted,
contrasting
print
3 x 27
3 x 27
Straps
2 x 10
Folded edge of
binding
Stitch-in-the-ditch
to catch binding on
underside.
Snip-mark center of
bottom panel at
each edge.

2011 Revised Barbara Weiland Talbert barbara.weiland@yahoo.com


Jo-Lydias Attic 1040 NE 33rd Ave., Vancouver, WA 98686
DUPLICATION/SHARING PROHIBITED
Pocket Panel
Pocket Panel
Right side (outside)
of quilted tote panel
Align binding raw edges with folded edge of pocket panel.
Inside Zipped Pocket
1. Serge- or zigzag-finish the
9-long edges of the 3 x 9 and
the 9 x 16 pieces. Turn under
and press at these two finished
edges.
2. Position the pressed edges of
the 2 x 9 strip and the
9 x 16 strip 1/8 from the coil of
the 7-long zipper. Edgestitch and
topstitch.
3. Fold the zippered panel in half
with wrong sides together and
raw edges even. Use the two
2 x 10 strips to bind the side
edges of the pocket as shown.
3
5
5
Topstitching
4. Position the finished pocket on the inside of the
tote panel, centering it along one short edge
machine-baste in place.
Straps
1. Machine-baste
5
/8 from one long raw edge of each
of the 3 x 27 pieces of Fabric #3 for the tote
straps. On the wrong side of each strap, position
one edge of the waistband or belt stiffener along the
stitching as shown. Edgestitch.
2. Wrap the fabric snugly around the stiffener; press.
Turn under the remaining raw edge and press. Tuck
strips of fusible web inside to hold the layers togeth-
er for stitching; fuse for a few seconds, then
edgestitch along both long edges of each strap.
3. Optional: For a more
comfortable grip, fold each
strap in half at the center
and stitch through all layers.
Tote Finishing
1. Fold the tote in half with right sides together and
pin from the upper raw edges down to the piping at
the contrast edge. Make sure the piping is aligned.
2. Refer to the illustration with step 3 on the
next page.
Tuck the bottom of the tote up so the bottom seam-
line meets the piping. From the piping to the bottom
Inside of tote
5
Wrong side of strap Basting
4
folded edges, pin all four layers together at each
side seam. This tuck creates the soft, boxed tote
bottom when the tote is turned right side out.
3. Change to a size 100 Jeans sewing machine
needle to handle the layers in the bottom tuck with-
out breaking the needle. Stitch through all layers,
using a
3
/8-wide seam allowance. Serge the seam
allowances or bind them for a clean, ravel-free finish
inside the tote.
4. Turn the tote right side out
and push out the corners.
5. Position the strap
ends at the upper
edge of the tote,
aligning the outer
edges of the strap
with the lines of top-
stitching on the
pocket. Pin in place
and then stitch
securely from
the upper edge.
Piping
Piping
6. Cut one end of the 4-wide strip at a
45-degree angle. Turn under and press . Fold the
strip in half with wrong sides together; press.
7. With raw edges
even and beginning
somewhere close to
but not right at a side
seam, pin the strip to
the inside of the
tote. When you reach
the starting point,
overlap and trim so
the raw end tucks
into the folded end of
the strip by .
Machine stitch
3
/8
from the raw edges.
8. Press the strip
toward the seam
allowance and then
wrap it over the seam
allowance edge to the
outside; press. Pin in
place. Edgestitch.
9. Flip the straps up over the band and press. Stitch
in place at each edge of t he band and t hrough
the center. Stitch a second time for added durabil-
ity.
Put the straps of
your new tote over
your shoulder and
head to the nearest
fabric shop to show
off your handiwork
while you shop for
more fabric for the
next one!
Align strap outer edges with
pocket topstitching rows.
Stitch straps in place over
the upper-edge binding trim.

2011 Revised Barbara Weiland Talbert


barbara.weiland@yahoo.com
Jo-Lydias Attic 1040 NE 33rd Ave.,
Vancouver, WA 98686
DUPLICATION/SHARING PROHIBITED
Tuck tote bottom up to meet the piping.
Tuck raw end into folded end
at beginning of folded strip.
Add a Bottom Support
Its a good idea to add a removable support to
help maintain a flat bottom and squared corners in
your finished tote. Here are two easy options:
Carpet remnant cut to f i t i nsi de the tote
bottom. This is the weightiest but sturdiest alterna-
tive; just remove occasionally and vacuum.
Stiff cardboard or
3
/8-thick foam-center
board, cut to fit and covered with a fabric tube (see
below). You may need to replace the support periodi-
cally due to wear. Remove the fabric tube as needed
for laundering.
1. Measure the tote bottom and cut a paper pattern
slightly smaller than the dimensions.
2. Tuck the pattern into the bottom of the tote and
check the fit; adjust as needed. It should fit snugly.
3. Use the pattern to cut the support from the
desired material.
4. If desired, make a fabric tube to
cover the support. Wrap a tape mea-
sure around the support to measure
the width and thickness and cut a
piece of fabric this measurement plus
for seam allowances. Cut it the
length of the support, plus 5/8.
5. Make a narrow double hem at one
short end of the piece.
6. With right sides together, stitch the long edges
and one short end together. Turn right side out and
make a narrow double hem. Tuck the support inside
and turn any excess fabric at the opening end into
the tube.
Quilt-It-Yourself
If you cannot find a quilted, double-faced fabric and
coordinating fabric that you like, choose fabrics to
quilt yourself, for a truly custom-designed tote.
In addition to the Notions and the yardage
given on page 1 for the contrasting Fabrics #2
and #3, purchase 5/8 yard each of two coordinating
fabrics and a 24 x 44 piece of thin batting. You will
also need temporary spray adhesive for basting
the layers together, or you can use pin- or hand-
basting if you prefer.
Note: Wi t h t he qui l t i ng met hod outlined
here, you cut slightly oversized pieces from
each of the two fabrics and the batting, and then
quilt each set of pieces together and trim to size.
1. Referring to the cutting layouts on page 1, cut the
pieces from Fabric A, increasing the dimensions
by 1. To cut the pieces from the batting, add
2 to the dimensions given. To cut the pieces
from Fabric B, increase the dimensions by 3.
For example, the 17 x 20 tote panel would be cut
18 x 21 from Fabric A, 19 x 21 from the batting,
and 20 x 22 from Fabric B.
2. Arrange the cut pieces in sets for each tote piece
(Fabric A, Fabric B, and batting.)
3. Working with one set of fabric and batting pieces
at a time, apply a light coating of temporary spray
adhesive to the wrong side of Fabric B. (Work in a
well-ventilated area. To keep overspray under con-
trol, place the pieces inside a deep cardboard box.)
4. Center and smooth the
batting in place on top of
the Fabric B. Make sure
there are no wrinkles in
the batting or the fabric.
5. Apply a light coat of
spray adhesive to the bat-
ting. Center Fabric A on
top with right side up.
Smooth into place. Mark
the desired quilting
patt ern on the fabric,
using your favorite marking method. A grid of dia-
monds or squares is sufficient, or perhaps you can
outline stitch around some of t he desi gn motifs
in your fabric.
6. Stitch on the marked lines. Referring to the
cutting directions on page 1, trim the quilted pieces
to the correct size.
7. Repeat steps 3-6 with each remaining set of tote
pieces.
8. Return to page 2 to construct your tote bag.

2011 Revised Barbara Weiland Talbert


barbara.weiland@yahoo.com
Jo-Lydias Attic 1040 NE 33rd Ave.,
Vancouver, WA 98686
DUPLICATION/SHARING PROHIBITED
Batting
Fabric B
Fabric A
5
Narrow
double
hem at
one end

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