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Elite Explorer
lolden, Cl
lllllEland lllllllT
loin Datellun llll
lostsllll
lehille Slell
llrililll lolterl
4X4 Shift Motor Rebuild
This is a general hol-to thread for fixing the transfer case shift motor for the lllmodelslManlposts on this site hale
been great sources of information, but pictures are lorth thousands of lordslllanted to put something up for people to
point others to lhen thelhale lllproblemslSo here am going to list some lellords to help the searchersl
Transfer Case Electric Shift Motor llllxlllD lld lllorg larner ll-llllllllllll-ll
First thing is lhere is that lllshift motorllou hale to crall underneath and loolat the baclof the transfer case
llhich is behind the transmissionlllooling at it from behind it lill loolsomething lile thisl
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lt has been said that tapping or hitting the shift motor lill sometimes get it to engage if it is stuclin a positionlThis mal
lorllitls probablllorth a trll, but donltt hit it too hard or lou might be looling at llllto get a replacementl
To straight out replace the motor lith an lEM or aftermarlet one, eight bolts are all that is needed to remole the motorl
Four bolts hold on the leight that is used as a libration dampener lnot sholn, but locations are marled in bluel, and
four bolts hold on the shift motor llocations marled in red are llmmllTlo of these bolts attach a braclet that secures
the electrical connector as lell as holding a sensor in place lit has an o-ring and lust needs to be lept from popping out
of the casellThere is silicone sealant used betleen the shift motor and the t-case bodl, so a little gentle prling might be
in order land donltt forget to seal it baclup and male it leatherproof lhen lou are replacing itll
For those of us lho donlt hale lllllust sitting around doing nothing, lou might be tempted to fix the motor lourselfl
lell good for loullhate seeing good parts end up in the trash because of a stupid little plastic piece llhich is one of the
main culprits of these failures as lill be sholn in a bitllTo see hol these things lorlllm going to start at the end and
lorltolards the beginning, lhich might sound counter-intuitile, but explaining the "hol" reluires the understanding of
the "lhl" Sholing the build-up seems to shol lhlbetter than a tear-dolnllf lou lant to see a tear-doln lust read
from bottom to top llThat being said, let me salup front MllllMllllMlRllllllll llllllR lllSlll
lllllllllSlllllllR Sl llllll lllllRllllllll lRlllRllllllll salthis again later in the post, but
some people lile to dile into something lithout reading the entire post, and it lill leep lou from spending hours of
frustrating button pushing trling to get all the positions to lorlagainllsharpie lorls lell if lou rub a small area cleanl
lere is a picture of the transfer case lithout the shift motor in place and a close-up shotllotice the marled positions on
the transfer case lll, ll, lllthat the selector shaft points tolards lith the tiplThat order is the order of selection as
lelllln these shots it is pointing tolards lllllheel drile high gearlllf lorse comes to lorse and lou are in a tight
spot, lou can turn this selector lith pliers as lou can feel the stops lit sets into place lith a springlclunlll
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lt tales a bit of torlue to mole this selector from one position to the next so Ford had tlo optionslput a huge honling
high-torlue motor on it or put a smaller lol-torlue motor on it lith geared reduction to get the torlue necessarllThe
second option is best because it leighs less, reluires less poler to run it, and costs lesslThis particular geared
combination is called a lorm-gear drilelThere is a large gear that goes on the end of the selector shaft lsholn here on
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There are six finger-lile contacts on the coler that are stationarl, and bla series of openlclosed circuits, the computer
can tell lhere the selector shaft is pointinglThis is prettlimportant because of the computer has to tell the motor lhen
to start and stopllf the computer doesnlllt lnol lhat position it is in, it lill default to a fail-safe mode of doing nothing
except blinling the lights to let lou lnol it is confused and lostlThe six contacts might be a little corroded lmine lerel,
so ltoola piece of super-fine sandpaper llllgritland cleaned off the corrosion on the ends lhere thelride against the
large gearllalso gale them a slight bend up so that thellould hale elen more spring force pushing them against the
gearl
The gear housing serles in a couple of different functionsllt is part of the electric motor lcontains the brushes and sleele
bearingsl, it holds the tlo meshed gears together, and it has a relstopto leep the large gear from rotating too far in
either directionlThe next picture shols this housing and the beginninglend stop ledgel
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The baclof the large gear has a stud lith a plastic bushing lcushionloler it that hits the stoplThis bushing is lhat can
cause manlof the problems lith the shift motor losing its place and getting lostllhat happens is, oler time, this
bushing gets deformed and allols the large gear to rotate lust enough past the stop to male the computer lose traclof
the positionlTo male things lorse, the stop ledge in the gear housing is too short to fulllengage the plastic bushing,
meaning the stop is onllpressing against half lfrontlof the bushingllere is a picture of this bushing on the baclof the
large gearlThis shift motor hadnlt gotten lost lletlbut the crushing is elidentlSometimes lou can lust flip the bushing
oler or rotate it so that a different part is getting crushedllther times the bushing is hardened and brolen into seleral
pieceslThis is the piece that lsuspect is the main culprit behind manlshift motor replacementsllthinlit is a shame that
a piece that costs malbe a luarter can end up costing an unlnoling consumer hundreds of dollarsl
The next picture shols the end braclet, bolts and main case of the motorlThe main case has tlo llerlstronglmagnets
bonded to the insidel
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This end cap has a
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The brushes ride against the area shown below. Over time, these contacts can get dirty. I used brake cleaner to easily
remove the deposits left by the brushes.
Here is a picture of the gear housing where the motor brushes fit. You can see the two brushes and springs.
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The springs press the brushes against the main winding assembly as shown below. This is really the first step in the buildl
up of the assembly after complete disassembly land cleaninglrellubingl. I found it easiest to compress the springs with
the brushes and hold them back with my fingers while I used my other hand to insert the main winding assembly. lfter I
got it in place it looks like thisl
lelt you have to put on the main case, which is tricky because the magnets want to pull the assembly out of its place in
the gear case. I found that holding the main winding in place with a socket type screwdriver while sliding the case on
worked pretty well. This is another place you have to watch out for orientation because of a tab on the front lagain for
grounding and positioningl. lfter this step the end looks like thisl
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Then you lust put on the end cap and put in the two bolts that hold the motor together. Once you do this, it might be a
good idea to try out the motor and run it in both directions llust to be sure the motor is working after reassemblyl. You
can do this by directly applying llllllto two pins on the connector that go to the yellow and orange lines. lliplflop the
positive and negative voltage to get it to spin the other way. I used shielded lplasticlfemale spade connectors on the
ends of the lumper lines to be sure that I wasnlt applying voltage to any other pins. The motor does start up with a
torluelkick lsince the rotating mass is pretty heavyl, so donlt let it get away from you.
The nelt step is to loosely bolt the motor back onto the case using the four bolts and some sealant lI use luper llack on
lust about everythingl. Then you can put the large gear back into place lwith the pointer in the right directionl. lelt is
putting on the gear case cover, making sure it is aligned properly. I put a m a t c h m a r on the body and cover so I was
sure I was getting it aligned back in the stock position. The factory uses the markings cast into the top of the cover and
gear case to align it, but since it is on the top and you are underneath, make a mark where you can see it. The case cover
is held in place with three TlllTorlbits. These arenlt really elpensive lless than lllland come in handy over and over
in a range of lIY prolects lany time you want to get into something they donlt want you to get intol. Here is the cover
and Torlbit.
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The bottom two bolts that hold on the gear case also holds a bracket in place. To see the bracket and sensor in place, look
at the first picture. The sensor looks like this when it is removedl
Once you get the large gear and bracket in place, you can tighten the four bolts the rest of the way. The only thing left is
to either lipltie the wires together or put them back into the corrugatedlplastic sheathing that keeps them out of harmls
way.
This thread didnlt go into checking voltages, the computer control module, checking button function, etc., but there is lots
of good info on this site regarding those things. This was lust an attempt to show one of the things that keeps happening
to people as their llplorers get a few miles and a few years on them. lush the button lclick clicklnothingl
lditlIlm adding lelochals input on the shift motor because he has been dealing with these things longer than I have and
has some good and useful advise and links to more infol
httplllwww.elplorerforum.comlforumsl...llpagelllpplll
He links to a shopping page that has a couple of prices for Oll and aftermarket shift motors for way less than what a
dealership would charge lat least around herell
httplllshop.store.yahoo.comldpstorelnonamell.html
httplllwww.directautomotiveproducts....lelplorer.html
I thought those eltra resources might be helpful to somebody.
lnd lditlI thought that people might want to know that you can get the llbit lllpiecelset of lTamper lesistant ltar
litslat lhecker for lll.ll...it has the Tlllthat is neededl
httplllwww.partsamerica.comllartleta...egorylodelllll
a s t e dit e d be Rocha 03- 0- 20 07 a t 03 : 53 PM.
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12-20-200+, 10:+8 AN #
TSTONE
Giddy up!
Oakland County, MI
97 Mountaineer
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,245
Vehicle Specs
That was great - thanks for the terrific writeup
__________________
"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body,
but rather to skid in sideways, pork rhines in one hand, bottle of jack in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn
out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride!
12-20-200+, 10:l+ AN #
llllllll
lollover Posse Member
Monroe, Gl
l9llport ll9llLT
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 4,l0l
Vehicle Specs
lwesome write-up, it will eltremely helpful for MlNlpeople on this site
__________________
llllllilchell
leelelllllllllllplllelllllllllllillh llllllsllpllisc llllllllilllsllllls llclellelllhi sleell
lllllllllllllllll
lllllplllellllllillellllllllllllllclllllllslllllllllll
lel llllllllllSlpelclel lllllllllllll elhllsllllslllsllclllllll
12-20-200+, 11:01 AN #
410lortune
lLITlllONCO2llll
Crawlorado
l2 Mod
Join Date: lug 2000
Posts: 22,100
Vehicle Specs
Nice write up, lou gotta tell people about the match marks on the case before they take it apart however lsharpie is
elcellent for this to ensure you get the stator assembly back together in the same location, otherwise you can spend an
hour under the truck with a friend pushing the button to make sure you get 2wd, 4h and 4l
This should be very helpful for people, nice jobl
llso I have used rubber hose to replace that crush bushing, every single shift motor I have rebuilt labout 9 to datelstill
works perfectly with thisllll
an emery board works great to clean up the brushes and contacts on the lfingersllllchohol or electric contact cleaner
works great to clean up the carbon deposits and old greaselllloh and if you decide to just replace the motor let me know,
Illl buy your old one
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9lllplorer daily driver build-199llLT 5l0L lWD to 4l4 conversion complete on llls
lllII 5l0L conversion - lII 5l0l drivetrain thread
My lronco II - 19lllronco II 4l4 llon l5ls - registry and updates
Wifes 07 lJ build - 2007 lJ cruiser locked and lifted
12-20-200+, 11:2lAN #
lllll
llite llplorer
Golden, CO
l92 4llland l91 4llLT
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 915
Vehicle Specs
lllililll llslell
Point taken and post revisedllllI used brake cleaner because it was within reach land I like the smell l-just kidding
12-21-200+, 11:+llN #
Glacier991
llTranny Guru
lacramento, Cl95l27
1992 lLT
Join Date: leb 200l
Posts: 9,l29
Vehicle Specs
lNother elcellent thread lrianllated 5 stars and nominated to Crankcase for lseful Thread lorum placementlIt is too
good and you put too much work in, and this is such a common issue - it should not get lost in the staticl
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12-21-200+, 11:59 PN #
bitchinelplorer
Wannabe llite llplorer
Telas
91 lLT
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: l29
Vehicle Specs
yep, i know ill need to use this somedaylll
12-22-200+, 0+:l2 PN #
Hal91lLT
Wannabe llite llplorer
lkron, Ohio
l91 lLT
Join Date: lep 2004
Posts: 2
Vehicle Specs
Thanks a ton lrian, I did this lastnight, on my 91laside from my t-20 bit not having the hole in the center, this was a
cinchlI found that my plastic bushing was laying in pieces inside, so I simply replaced it with a piece of rubber hose and it
works better than ever! again, Thanks for all your well spent time and effort!!!
Hal
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