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MAGAZINE | NYT NOW
Masala Dosa to Die For
By ROLLO ROMIG MAY 7, 2014
SaravanaBhavandoesntlooklikeahouseofsecrets.Itsdiningroomat
thecornerofLexingtonAvenueand26thStreetiscleanandbrightand
oftenattractsalineoutfront.Itdoesntadvertisebecauseitdoesnt
needtothefactthatitsoneoftheworldslargestchainsofvegetarian
restaurants33inIndia,another47inadozenothercountriesis
consideredtooobvioustoitscoreclienteleofIndianexpatriatesand
touriststobeworthtrumpeting.Inacityoverwhelmedwith
underwhelmingnorthIndianfood,SaravanaBhavanisthestandard
bearerofthedelicaciesofthesouth,butitmakesnoefforttoeducate
theuninitiated.Ifyoudontknowwhatadosaisorhowtoeatit,youre
onyourown.
Themanbehindthechainisanelusive66yearoldnamedP.
Rajagopal.AmonghispeersintherestaurantbusinessinChennai,the
southIndiancitywhereSaravanaBhavanisheadquartered,Rajagopal
isalegend.Hebroughtprestigetothevegetarianbusiness,saida
restaurateurnamedManoharan,whorunsacompetingchaincalled
MuruganIdli.Hemadearevolution.
Bornintoalowcasteinaremoteprovince,hecametoruleafield
thatwasoncethesoledomainofBrahmins,cleverlyupdatingtheir
traditionalfareinasettingthatwasbothrespectableand
unpretentious,therebycateringtoIndiasmiddleclassatjustthe
momentitemerged.Todayheemploysmorethan8,000peoplein
Chennaialone.HisworkersenjoybenefitsfantasticenoughforSilicon
Valley(pensions,TVs,education),inspiringamongthemfierceloyalty
toRajagopal.Everydaythousandsofpilgrimscometoprayatthe
templeshebuiltinthevillageofhisbirth,andahundredthousand
cometoeatinhisrestaurants.
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Hisbusinessmodelissoseeminglyfoolproofthatthecompanyhas
acquiredanairofinvincibility,evenasitsfounderbecamesulliedwith
scandal.AsSaravanaBhavanwentglobal,Rajagopalwaschargedwith
murder,foundguiltyandsentencedtolifeinprison.Yetheserveda
totalofonly11months,andtodayhesfreetocontinuehisexpansion
nextstopHongKong,followedbySydney,Australia.Andthen,ifhis
healthholdsout,buildinghisfirstluxuryhotel.
SaravanaBhavanspecializesintheholytrinityofsouthIndian
snacksknownastiffin:dosa,idliandvada.Allaremadefromground
riceandlentils,withremarkablydifferentresults.Dosasarecrispy
goldencrepesthataremostdeliciouslyservedwithamasalaofpotato
andonionvadasaredeepfriedsavorydoughnutsandidlis,thesouths
staplefood,arepurewhitesaucershapedsteamedcakes.Atmost
branchesofSaravanaBhavaninChennai,youcanalsofindforsalea
littlebooktitled,ISetMyHeartonVictory.Firstpublishedin1997,
thebookisRajagopalsmemoirandmanifesto,acuriousblendof
mythmakingandselfeffacement.
Hisstorybeginsin1947,10daysbeforeIndiasindependencefrom
theBritish,whenhewasborninthevastbrushlandinthesouthern
stateTamilNadu.Hisvillage,Punnaiadi,wassoinconsequentialthatit
didntmeritabusstophishomewasashackwithmudandcowdung
floors.Rajagopalwritesthathequitschoolafterseventhgrade,left
homealoneandtookajobwipingtablesatacheaprestaurantina
distantresorttown,whereheshoweredinawaterfallandsleptonthe
kitchenfloor.Buthewasproudofhiswork,especiallyafterthe
restaurantsteamasterinductedhimintothemysteriesofmakinga
perfectchai.
Whenhewasateenager,hemovedtoChennai,thenknownas
Madras,andin1968openedthefirstinaseriesoftinygroceriesonthe
outskirtsofthecity.Onedayin1979,athisgroceryinaneighborhood
calledKKNagar,asalesmanmadeacasualremark:Hedhavetogoall
thewaytoTNagarforlunchbecauseKKNagardidnthaveany
restaurants.
Acenturyago,therewerevirtuallynorestaurantsinallofChennai.
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Itsacountrythatwasveryconservativeabouteatingout,said
KrishnenduRay,afoodstudiesprofessoratN.Y.U.WhenRajagopal
wasborn,therestaurantsceneconsistedoflittlemorethanBrahmin
hotels:modestaffairscateringtothetravelinguppercaste,whose
dietaryrulesdictatedthattheycouldnteatfoodcookedbyanycaste
buttheirown.AsamemberoftheNadarcaste,Rajagopalwouldnt
havebeenallowedtoeatinmostBrahminhotels,letalonerunone.But
bythetimehecameofage,entrepreneursfromothercasteshadbegun
tomeetChennaisincreasingappetitefordiningout.
TherewaslittletosuggestthatRajagopalwasreadytojointhem.
WhenheopenedhisdebutrestaurantinKKNagarin1981,his
strugglingshopshadlefthimdeepindebt,andheknewlittleabout
foodservicebeyondsellinggroceries.Hemadetheleap,hetoldme,
onlyafteranastrologerrecommendedthathetryalineofworkthat
involvedfire.Abusinessadviserinsistedthatheshouldusecheap
ingredientsandpayhisstaffaslittleaspossiblefoodworkersare
vagabonds,hesaid,andtheylltakewhattheycanget.Ididnotlikehis
argumentatall,Rajagopalwritesinhismemoir.Hefiredtheadviser,
startedusingcoconutoilandtopqualityvegetablesandgavehis
workerssurprisinglyhighwages.Thebusinesslost10,000rupeesa
monthabigdeficitforarestaurantwheremostitemsonthemenu
soldforarupeeapiece.
Butwordspreadthathisfoodwastastyandcheap,andsoon
Rajagopalwasturningaprofitandopeningnewbranches.He
expandedhisworkersbenefits,allofthemunprecedentedinIndian
restaurants:freehealthcare,housingstipends,amarriagefundfor
theirdaughters.SaravanaBhavanworkersstartedcallinghimAnnachi,
aTamiltermofrespectthatmeanselderbrother.
Bythe90s,aSaravanaBhavancouldbefoundinneighborhoods
throughoutChennai.Localssometimesrefertothebrandastheir
versionofMcDonalds:welllit,ubiquitousanduncannilyconsistent.
UnlikeMcDonalds,therestaurantsmakeeverythingfromscratch.One
afternoon,atrioofbrighteyedassistantsfromthecompanysR&D
departmentgavemeatourofthebranchinMylapore,aChennai
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neighborhood.Iwassurprisedtofindthattherewerenofreezers,justa
singlewalkincoolerforvegetablesthathadbeenboughtatmarketthe
daybefore.Eventhericeflourforthedosaswasgroundonthe
premises.
Whenthetourwasover,theassistantstalkedtomeabout
Rajagopal.Heisthesameasthefatherofafamily,onesaid.Any
problemIhave,headdressesit.Thecompanypaysforemployeesto
visitRajagopalshomevillageforafewdayseachyear,hetoldme,
drivingthemdowninacompanybus.WhenIgothere,Icanwitness
alltheloveandaffectionthevillagepeoplehaveforAnnachi.
Iaskedifthecompanyhadcutbackonitspackageofbenefitsasit
hasgrown.Theyveonlybeenincreasing,asecondassistantsaid.The
companyprovidesthemwithmagazinesubscriptions,acellphoneanda
motorbike,hesaid,andcoversthecostoffuel.(Theonlybenefitit
discontinuedwasahaircutallowance.)
Andwehavemechanicssothatwedonthavetogooutsidetofix
ourvehicles,thethirdtoldme.
Myfriendusedtojokewithme,Theonlythingyoucandowith
yoursalaryisputitinthebankandsaveit,thesecondassistantsaid.
Theytakecareofeverything.
In2000,SaravanaBhavanbranchedoutforthefirsttimebeyond
India,openingafranchiseinDubai,whereIndianexpatsvastly
outnumbernativebornEmiratis.AccordingtoRajagopalselderson,
ShivaKumaar,theopeningdaycrowdwaslikeforanewlyreleased
movie.TheydeventuallyexpandtoParis,Frankfurt,London,Dallas
andDoha,Qatar.Thestrategyissimple:openonerestaurantinevery
citywithalargeexpatIndianpopulation.(OneexceptionisManhattan,
whichhastwo.)Preyonhomesicknessbyimportingskilledchefsto
ensurethatthefoodtastesjustthewayitdoesinChennai.Dontbother
tryingtopursuenonIndiancustomers.
In2002,theyearthatheopenedfranchisesinSingaporeand
Sunnyvale,Calif.,Rajagopalwaschargedwithmurderingthehusband
ofawomanhewantedtomarry.In2003,hisrestaurantexpandedto
Canada,OmanandMalaysia,andhewenttojailforthefirsttime.In
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2004,alocalChennaicourtsentencedhimto10yearsinprison.Bythe
endofthatyear,theempirehadopened29branchesworldwide.
Eightmonthsintohisprisonterm,theSupremeCourtsuspended
Rajagopalssentenceonmedicalgroundswhileawaitingappeal,citing
hisdiabetes.In2009,theMadrasHighCourtnotonlyupheldthe
verdictbutalsoupgradedtheconvictionfromculpablehomicideto
murderandenhancedhissentencetolifeinprison.Afteranotherthree
monthstint,hewasoutonbailpendingaSupremeCourthearing,
whichnooneexpectstohappenanytimesoon.Thecourtswontgive
himbackhispassport,butotherwisehesfreetogoabouthislife.All
butoneofSaravanaBhavans47foreignfranchiseshaveopenedinthe
12yearssincethemurder.
Itsamazinghowhemanagedit,saidSriramV.,alocalhistorian.
Imean,ourlegalsystemisnotthatbad.
Chennaistabloidspublishedeveryluriddetailofthemurder
allegations,buttherestaurantjustkeptgrowing.Othersinthat
positionwouldhavetotallycollapsed,saidManoharan,ofthe
competingchainMuruganIdli.Peoplethoughthewasfinished.But
therewasnoimpact.
IthelpedthatRajagopalhaslittleinterestinpersonalfamehe
promotestherestaurantsbrand,nothisown,whichmakesiteasierfor
customerstocompartmentalize.AsoneSaravanaBhavanloyalisttold
me:Someofmyfriendsusedtosay,Howcanyougoandeatinhis
restaurant?Youreactuallyfatteningthewalletofamurderer.AndI
usedtotellthem,Look,IdontknowwithwhomIdobusinessinmy
daytodayactivity,whetherhesadrunkorbeatshiswife.Ihaveno
idea,butIdobusiness.Soaslongashesgivingmegoodqualityfood,I
gothere.
SaravanaBhavanemployeeshavebeenespeciallyfaithful.M.
Mahadevan,aconsultantwhohashelpedwiththechainsinternational
expansion,toldmeastorytoillustratetheirdevotion.Iwasatthe
SaravanaBhavandowntheroad,drinkingcoffeewithsomefriends,
Mahadevansaid.TheoldmanthatswhatMahadevancalls
Rajagopalwasinprisonatthattime.Thesebighulkyguyscamein,
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eightofthemtheywerelocalrowdies.Theywantedtoeatwithout
paying.Oneofthemwasbullyingthewaiter,saying:Hey,mister,hows
yourboss?Dontactfunny,Iknowhesinside.Therewasaboypouring
water,andhetoldthem:Youretalkingaboutmyboss.Yousay
anythingagainsthim,andIllputthisjugofwaterintoyourmouth.
Notonyouintoyourmouth.Iwasastonished.Theboywasthree
footnothing.Andimmediatelyallthewaiterscameandstoodnextto
him.
Forhim,theoldmanwasagod.Period.Hesgotthatkindof
loyalty.Hetakesboysfromthestreet,fromthevillages,andheteaches
them.Hepicksthemupandmoldsthem.
OnegloomyWednesdayeveninginAugust,Iwenttomeet
RajagopalatSaravanaBhavansheadquarters,passingseveralofhis
restaurantsasIinchedmywaythroughthecityseternalgridlock.
Mahadevanmetmeinthediningroomandescortedmetothebosss
office,introducingmeonthewaytoRajagopals39yearoldson,
Saravanan,whoisgraduallytakingoverthecompanysdomestic
operations.(Hiselderbrother,ShivaKumaar,runstheinternational
business.)Forawhilethethreeofussatandstaredatthewalls:Every
surfacewascoveredwithblownupimagesofRajagopalsfamilyand
favoriteHindudeities.ThensuddenlyMahadevanandSaravananrose.
Theofficedoorswungopen,andRajagopalentered.
HewasgrayerandjowlierthanhewasinthephotographsIdseen.
Heregardedtheroomwithmildamusement,bowedpolitelyand
walkedbehindhisdesk,wherehefacedaportraitofapopularguru
andfoldedhishandsforamomentofprayer.WithhimwasGanapathi
Iyer,hisoldestfriend,andapersonalassistantandavalet.Weallsat
butthevalet,whostoodreadywithaglassofwatertheinstanthisboss
coughed.Nobodyrelaxed.
IaskedRajagopalabouthisoriginsandbusinessphilosophy.Each
questionwasansweredwithacascadeofreplies:Rajagopalwould
answerinTamil,thenSaravananorMahadevanorIyerorallthree
wouldjumpintoelaborateorclarifyinEnglish,alanguageRajagopal
doesntunderstand.Itwasadynamicthatsometimesclearlyfrustrated
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theboss.
WhenIaskedaboutthemurder,everyonestartedtalkingatonce,
untilRajagopalcutimpatientlythroughthechatter.Imnot
responsibleforanyonesdeath,hesaid.Iusedtopraytomygod,why
wasIpunishedforsomeoneelsesmistake?Therewasareason,he
decided:GodwantedtogiveanopportunityformysonSaravananto
learnbusiness.Saravanansmiledfaintly.
Bythetimewefinishedtalking,itwasnearly11,andRajagopals
workdaystillwasntover.Inthefoyeroutsidehisoffice,eight
employeeswerestandinginlinewaitingtospeakwithhim.Anolder
manwithahandlebarmustacheandaproudbearingtoldmethathe
wasanightwatchmanandwastheretoaskRajagopalforapromotion.
Anothersaidhehopedtobetransferredtoadifferentbranch.Athird
saidhewantedtoinformRajagopalofhiscomingwedding.
IwentbackintoRajagopalsoffice.Hesatathisdesk,studyinga
spreadsheetwiththeaidofamagnifyingglass.Heconsultedhis
assistantandthencalledinthefirstman.Rajagopalignoredhimand
barkedintoawalkietalkie,askingthevoiceontheotherendwhathad
broughtinthismanwhostoodbeforehim.
Fromthewalkietalkiecameasurprisinganswer:Theykeep
fightingthewholenight.Thatwasnotwhathetoldmeoutside.The
manhunghishead.Rajagopalfiredhimonthespot.
Thenextmancamein,andanothervoiceonthewalkietalkietold
Rajagopalthathedbeenfiddlingwithhiscellphoneinthedining
room.Itturnedoutthatnearlyalltheemployeesinlinehadliedtome
theyweretheretobedisciplined.
Youvebeenwithusfortwoandahalfyearsdontyouknow
thatyourenotsupposedtouseyourphoneduringworkhours?
Rajagopalsaid.
Ididitbymistake,themanmumbled.
Answermyquestion!Rajagopalsnapped.
Iforgot,themansaid.
Howcanyouforget?Whenyoureinservice,youshouldserve.
Hedecidedtogivethemananotherchance.Nextupwasthe
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watchman.
Iheardyougotdrunkandabusedeveryoneandusedfoulwords,
Rajagopalsaid.Andyoushouldshaveoffyourmustache.Thesearenot
goodhabits.
Imsorry,Annachi,hesaid.Forgiveme.
HowcanI?Rajagopalasked.Theresanagetoforgive.Atyour
age,itdoesntmakesense.Thewatchmanstaredatthefloor.Areyou
listening?Rajagopalasked.
Againhedecidedtohavemercythemanwouldkeephisjobas
longashelaidoffthebooze.Hewhisperedhisthanksandleftwithout
everlookingup.
ThenightsworkwasoverRajagopalsatbackinhischair.What
todo?hesaid.Everyonemakesmistakes.
AttheconclusionofRajagopalsappealtrialin2009,the
MadrasHighCourtissueda30,000worddocumentthatservedasits
definitivestatementonthecase.Byandlarge,awitnesscannotbe
expectedtopossessaphotographicmemorytorecallthedetailsofthe
incidentandtheactualwordsuttered,thecourtwarns.Itisnotasifa
videotapeisreplayedonthementalscreen.Butthisistheversionof
eventsthatthecourtfoundmostcredible.
Accordingtothedocument,Rajagopalpossiblyontheadviceof
hisastrologerbecamedeterminedtomarryJeevajothi,theyoung
daughterofoneofhisassistantmanagers.Thatwouldhavemadeher
Rajagopalsthirdsimultaneouswife:In1972,hemarriedthemotherof
hissons,andin1994,hemarriedthewifeofoneofhisemployees.
JeevajothiwasnotinterestedinRajagopal.Shewasinlovewith
herbrothersmathtutor,Santhakumar.In1999,Jeevajothiand
Santhakumareloped,butRajagopalsfixationpersistedhegaveher
jewelry,dressesandseveralinstallmentsofcashtohelpheropena
travelagency.WhileJeevajothiacceptedthegifts,shecontinuedto
resistRajagopalsadvances.OnSept.28,2001,Rajagopalcameto
JeevajothiandSanthakumarshouseatmidnightandwarned
Santhakumarthathehadtwodaystosevertheirrelationship.Hetold
Jeevajothithathissecondwife,too,hadatfirstrejectedhim,butnow
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shewaslivingaqueenlife.
Theyoungcoupletriedtofleetoaplacewheretheyhoped
Rajagopalwouldntfindthem,butfiveofRajagopalsemployees,ledby
arestaurantmanagernamedDaniel,interceptedthem.Thehenchmen
forcedthecoupleintoanAmbassadorcaranddrovethemtoa
SaravanaBhavanwarehouseinKKNagar,whereRajagopalappeared.
Accordingtothecourtsnarrative,Rajagopalhikeduphisdhotiand
gaveSanthakumarabeating.JeevajothifellatRajagopalsfeetand
beggedhimtostop.RajagopaltoldhismentotakeSanthakumartothe
nextroomandcontinuebeatinghim.Jeevajothisatinthecornerand
wept.
Thenextday,DanielcalledJeevajothitoapologizeandsuggested
thatshegotothepolice.
ThoughRajagopalsmenheldJeevajothiandSanthakumarunder
akindofhousearrest,theyescapedonOct.12underthepretextof
goingouttoattendafelicitationfunctionforRajagopal.Instead,they
wenttothecitypolicecommissionersofficetofileacomplaint.Six
dayslater,Rajagopalsemployeeskidnappedthecoupleagainand
forciblyseparatedthem.TheypushedJeevajothiintoaMercedeswith
Rajagopal,whobrandishedaphotocopyofherpolicecomplaintand
askedhermockinglyaboutitscontents.
JeevajothididntknowwhatbecameofSanthakumar.Hereached
herbyphonetwodayslater,tellingherthatRajagopalhadpaidDaniel
500,000rupees($10,000)tokillhim,butDanielhadinsteadlethim
escapeandadvisedhimtohideoutinMumbai.Sheurged
Santhakumartocomehometohertogether,Jeevajothisaid,theyd
pleadwithRajagopaltoleavethemalone.Itisobvious,thecourt
wrote,thattheiroverwhelmingloveforeachotherpersuadedthemto
taketherisk.
Laterthatnight,thecouple,joinedbyJeevajothisparentsand
brother,wenttoSaravanaBhavanheadquarterstomeetRajagopal.He
toldthemtowaitinanearbyroom.ThenheinterrogatedDanielabout
whathappenedtoSanthakumar.Danielliedandsaidthathehadtied
himuponarailwaytrack,whereatrainranhimover,andthenhe
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burnedhisclothes.Withadramaticflourish,Rajagopalthencalled
Santhakumarintotheroom.Whosthisthen,heaskedDaniel,
Santhakumarsghost?DanielstartedbeatingSanthakumarthereinthe
office,enragedthathedrevealedhisbetrayalofRajagopal.Jeevajothi
andherfamilytriedtointervene.EventuallyRajagopalandhis
henchmenputthemallintoavan,which,accordingtothecourt,took
themtoaspecialistinafarawayvillageforremovalofwitchcraft.
Twodayslater,RajagopalsmenforcedSanthakumarintoacar
withDaniel,andtheydrovenorth.OnOct.31,highupintheWestern
GhatsmountainrangeneararesorttowncalledKodaikanal,forest
officialsdiscoveredabody.Anassistantsurgeonatthelocalhospital
concludedinhispostmortemthatthecauseofSanthakumarsdeath
wasasphyxiaduetothrottling.Thepolicelaterfoundthealleged
murderweaponasarongundertheseatofDanielscar.
DanielwasconvictedofmurderalongwithRajagopalandhasalso
beenreleasedonbail,butIwasneverabletotrackhimdown.
Jeevajothi,too,hasmadeherselfimpossibletofind.
ThreedaysafterImetRajagopalinChennai,Itookashort
flighttovisitthevillagewherehegrewup.Rajagopalsdriverpickedme
up,andhebeamedwhenIaskedhimwhatthebosswaslike.Heslike
alivinggodtous,hesaid.Heunderstandseveryproblem,andhe
resolvesit.
ThevillagesnamehasbeenupgradedfromPunnaiaditoPunnai
Nagar,becauseofRajagopalsdevelopmentofthearea,hetoldme.The
busevenstopstherenow.Intermsofpopulation,PunnaiNagarisno
biggerthanitwaswhenRajagopalwasborn.Yetthevillagehasbeen
transformed.Inthemiddleofthereddirtmoonscape,Rajagopalhas
erectedasurrealmonumenttohissuccess,intheformofafouracre
SaravanaBhavancampus.ThecenterpieceisamilliondollarHindu
temple,whichisflankedbyaSaravanaBhavanrestaurantthatemploys
140peopleallforavillagethathasfewerthan90homes.
AworkertookmeonatourofRajagopalshouse,whichhebuiltin
1994onthespotwherehischildhoodhutoncestood,andwherehehas
increasinglybeenspendinghistime.Itsahugebeigeblock,nearlyall
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ofitgivenovertodormitoryroomsforhisstaff.Theonlydecorations
arepicturesofgods.Theworkerledmetoablackcouchonthesecond
floor,andafewminuteslater,Rajagopalemergedfromabackroom
andsatonachairoppositeme.GanapathiIyerwasthereagain,aswere
hisassistantandhisvalet,whoprickedRajagopalsfingerforablood
sugartest.ButthistimeRajagopalwaslesswillingtoletthemcontrol
theconversation.
Iaskedhimaboutarumorthatwhileinprisonhehadmanagedto
improvethefoodservedbytheprisoncanteen.Youcantchange
anythingthere,hesaid.Ihadtospendonelakh[100,000rupees]
everymonthinordertogethomefooddeliveredtome.
Donttellhimaboutthis,IyersaidtoRajagopal.Dowehaveto
talkaboutthecorruption?
Theyshouldknowhowcorruptweare,Rajagopalsaid.Wecant
justkeepbraggingthatwearegoodallthetime.Thetruthhastobe
told.
Iaskedhimwhathelikesleastabouthiswork.
Idontlikeemployeesdrinkingandlying,hesaid.Ifyouaskme,
IdontlikethatIwentafterJeevajothi.
Sir,notthat,Iyersaid,justofficework,officework.
TheresnothingIdislikeaboutthework,Rajagopalsaid.
AfterawhileRajagopalsaidhewasgettingtired.Aswegotupto
leave,hetalkedabouthowimportantitwasforsuccessfulvillagerslike
himtosupporttheplacestheycamefrom.Developingvillageswas
Gandhisdream,hesaid.IbelieveinGandhi.
IaskedwhatheadmiredmostaboutGandhi,andhelaughed.I
likethathehadagirloneacharm.Heturnedtomytranslator.Tell
himthathavinggirlsaroundkeepsaguyyoungforever.
Tellhimtheselastcommentswerejustajoke,hisassistantsaid.
ShortlybeforeIleftChennai,ImetagainwithRajagopalsson
Saravanan.Thistimeitwasjustthetwoofus,andwetalkedforhours
inthefoyeroutsidehisfathersoffice.Saravananisalargebutgentle
man,hishuskyvoicerarelymuchlouderthanawhisper.
Hedescribedhisfatherasakeepguessingcharacter.Youdont
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knowwhathewillcomeupwanting,hesaid.Aphonecallcomes,and
youhavetobedeadsurewhathesaskingandwhatyoureanswering.
Thatfearisthereforeverybody.Isheanintimidatingbosstoworkfor?
Iasked.Whenhewantsthingsdoneacertainway,hesquite
intimidating,Saravanansaid.Ithastobedoneatanycost.
Ifhedhadhischoice,hesaid,hewouldhavebecomeanengineer.
Mydadsaid,No,wecomefromabusinesscommunityyouhaveto
studycommerce.Sohedidtwoyearsofcommerce,andthen
Rajagopaltoldhimhehadtostudyhotelmanagement.Fromtherehis
fatherassignedhimtoasevenyearrotationthroughthecompanys
departments:purchasingvegetables,workingthegraveyardshiftinthe
kitchen,manningaSaravanasweetsshop,makingicecream,working
inmaintenanceandaccountingandhumanresources.
ItsclearthatSaravanannevergaveuphisdreamofbecomingan
engineerhejusttransferredhisideastohisfathersbusiness.
Rajagopalsexactingstandardsweredictatedbytheinstinctofaself
mademan.Saravananwantstotranslatethatinstinctintoascience,
andwhenhetalksaboutthecompanythatsbecominghis,his
conversationispepperedwithtermsthatwouldbeforeigntohisfather,
likemanagementinformationsystemandtotaldissolvedsolids.Ina
biochemicallabSaravanansetuponthetopfloorofthecompanysice
creamfactory,hehasbeentryingtodeterminetheexactchemical
compositionofSaravanasdishesintheiridealform,andthelabuses
thisinformationtotestdailysamplesfromeachofthecompanys
Chennaibranchestoensurethatallaresupplyingthesamequality.
Asthecompanycontinuestogrow,manpowerisaworry.
Saravanansaidheiscommittedtomakingeverythingfromfresh
ingredientsinfact,hewantstotakeitfurther,andhehasbeen
experimentingwithreplacingtheartificialstabilizerinSaravanas
otherwiseallnaturalhousebrandicecreamwithflaxseed.Butsuch
cookingrequiresvastkitchenstaffs,andasbettereducationreaches
moreandmoreIndians,hesaid,fewerworkersareinterestedinthat
kindoflabor.
OnesolutionSaravananlikesisautomation.Anotherinhouselab
5/7/2014 Masala Dosa to Die For - NYTimes.com
http://www.nytimes.com/2014/05/11/magazine/masala-dosa-to-die-for.html?hp 13/13
isdevelopingprototypesforeverythingfromcoffeemachinestovada
fryers,accordingtoSaravanaBhavansveryparticularspecifications.
Herecognizes,though,thatthemassutilityofsuchmachinesisstill
yearsawayinthemeantime,personnelremainsthecompanysmost
treasuredasset,sohehasalsosystematizedthehiringprocess.Anin
housemedicalteamrecordseachapplicantsvitalstatisticsusing
softwareSaravanandeveloped.Acoffeeman,heexplained,shouldbe
smallandquiet,whileadosachefneedstobeatleast5foot6.
Buthewasquicktonotethelimitsofsuchalgorithms.Justthat
morning,hesaid,themedicalteamalertedhimtotheirconcernsovera
particularapplicant:Theynoticedthathehadcigaretteburnsonhis
forearm,apparentlyselfinflicted.Saravanandecidedtocalltheman
andaskhimwhathappened.Hetoldme,Ihadaloveaffair,itfailed,
shegotmarried,Igotagitated,Saravanansaid.Hemadeamistake
thatwasasmallpartofhislife.Thecompanyisstrict,butnot
unforgiving.Hetoldthemanhewouldhirehim.Andifthejobworked
out,SaravanaBhavanwouldpaytoerasehisscars.
Rollo Romig is a freelance writer in Turkey. He last wrote for the magazine about the plight of
celebrity elephants in India.
Editor: Samantha Henig
A version of this article appears in print on May 11, 2014, on page MM32 of the Sunday
Magazine with the headline: Masala Dosa To Die For.
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