Warsaw

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Warsaw
April - May 2014
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uI. Chocimska 7, Warszava
leI. 22 848 12 25, leI./fax 22 848 15 90
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4 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Contents
Feature
You Light Up My Life! 8
Arrival & Transport 12
City Basics 18
History Basics 20
Culture & Events 22
Restaurants 28
Cafs 57
Nightlife 58
Sightseeing
Essential Warsaw 51
Sightseeing 70
Old Town 82
The Royal Route 85
Palace of Culture and Science 87
Praga 88
Copernicus Science Center 90
azienki 92
Wilanw 95
Jewish Warsaw 98
Warsaw Uprising 101
Chopin 105
Further Afeld
d 108
Leisure 110
Shopping 112
Directory 118
Hotels 120
Maps & Index
Street Index 124
City Centre Map 125
City Map 126-127
Country Map 128
Listings Index 129
Features Index 130
IN PRINT
ONLINE
ON YOUR MOBILE
Neon Muzeum Ilona Karwiska
E S S E N T I A L
C I T Y G U I D E S
PLAC TEATRALNY 3, WARSAW
TEL. +48 601 81 82 83
INFO@THAITHAI.WAW.PL
Foreword
Welcome to Warsaw and the 80th edition of Warsaw In
Your Pocket! Faithful readers might notice that this issue of
Warsaw IYP has a new look. Thats right, to commemorate
our 80th issue weve given the guide a thorough overhaul.
Warsaw IYP is now cleaner, sleeker, sexier, and just as clever
as ever. Weve tweaked this edition to be both easier to read
and easier to use. We hope that you, our readers, will be
happy with the results of our eort. Let us know what you
think about it on Facebook (/warsawinyourpocket.com)
or old-fashioned email: editor_poland@inyourpocket.com.
In addition to the new design, weve got plenty of new con-
tent as well including an in depth look at how Warsaws sto-
ried Neon signs came to be and where and when you should
go and see (p. 8). We also have plenty of events to recom-
mend in the coming months from the smooth jazz stylings
of Kenny G (if thats your cup of tea) to the classical virtuosity
of Nigel Kennedy and the eclectic electronic sounds of Cut
Copy. So grab a coee, have a read, tuck us In Your Pocket
and get out there and enjoy the spring in Warsaw!
CZECH
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HUNGARY
SERBIA BOSNIA
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FYR MACEDONIA
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CROATIA
SLOVENIA
AUSTRIA
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UKRAINE
GEORGIA
BELARUS
LITHUANIA
LATVIA
ESTONIA
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IRELAND
ABOUT IYP
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Editor: Thymn Chase; Contributing Writer: Mat Fahrenholz;
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FEATURE
Warsaw is one of those cities
that pays great dividends if you
look up every once and a while..
Perched atop many of the huge
communist era buildings in the
city center are original or recent-
ly restored retro Neon signs. By
day they look great but at night
theyre out of sight. To nd out
more about Warsaws Neon signage check out the fea-
ture on page 8.
April - May 2014 9 facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket
You Light Up My Life!
You Light Up
My Life!
WARSAWS ENDURING LOVE AFFAIR WITH NEON LIGHTS
Stop for a moment and think about your perceptions of
Poland during the communist years - the so called PRL
era. Chances are your mind will conjure up visions of bleak
and colourless concrete heavy cityscapes with miserable
old grannies and drunks trudging through the mud and
snow pulling trolleys laden with potatoes and toilet paper
behind them. That vision may be partly true, however, hold
your horses now, the reality was actually brighter and more
exciting than our history teachers and the western media
led us to believe.
After the death of Stalin in 1953 Polands authorities were
well aware of the opportunity to break free from the shack-
les of the Socialist Realist urban vision and a less restric-
tive and artistically creative period for architects, designers
and city planners ensued.
One of the more interesting state endorsed projects of the
time was to encourage the installation of neon signage.
Although the popularity of neons in Poland continued into
the 1970s the high point lasted from the late 1950s to the
mid 1960s, with the programme employing 1000s of peo-
ple in the designing, production, installation and mainte-
nance of these liquid re signs. Almost every application
from state-run companies, cinemas, restaurants, cafes and
theatres was quickly rubber-stamped, signed and given the
go-ahead. Warsaw saw the installation of the most neons
in the country but was closely followed by Katowice, as
the state wished to emphasise the economic success of its
industrial heartland.
First shown at the Paris Motor Show in 1910, neon light-
ing rapidly became the medium for advertising. Soon after,
cities like Paris, Berlin and New York were ablaze with
colour by night, the signs were seen as symbols of moder-
nity, progress, energy and the cultural high-life. Even today,
it would be hard to imagine a sight which says more about
nancial success and a happy-go-lucky approach to leisure
time than a photo of Las Vegas at night.
One important cultural dierence is the fact that in Poland
the signs were, more often than not, designed by some of
the countrys top artists and graphic designers who were
drafted in to add contemporary and creative air to the
projects.
In Warsaw, the neons certainly brightened up the city, but
in reality they also served as a convenient veneer, cover-
ing over the fact that behind the modernist faades and
bright lights, the shelves of shops were regularly empty
or that the glamorously advertised restaurants and cafes
could rarely sell you a beer or a bite to eat.
As the country drifted into the economic despair of the 1970s
the last thing on peoples minds was fancy energy wasting ad-
vertising, proclaiming non-existent lifestyles and goods. The
lights started going out and due to the lack of maintenance
and general apathy the neons were quickly forgotten about.
The collapse of communism and the hatred of anything to
do with that era saw many important architectural buildings
torn down and neons tossed into the dustbin of history, or
simply left to fall into further states of disrepair and neglect.
Todays interest in all things retro and the burgeoning
contemporary arts scene in Warsaw means that the im-
portance and preservation of the citys neons has become a
matter of urgency and necessity. A new generation of Var-
sovians see these iconic works as part of a cultural legacy
and a unique part of the citys heritage, rather than simply a
by-product of a much despised totalitarian system.
| Syrenka | Ilona Karwiska |
Neon Muzeum Berlin Mat Fahrenholz
Neon Muzeum logo Ilona Karwiska
Izis, ul. Marszalkowska Mat Fahrenholz
10 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com April - May 2014 11 facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket
You Light Up My Life! You Light Up My Life!
Nobody deserves more credit for the resurgence of interest
in Polish neon than the photographer Ilona Karwiska and
designer David S Hill. Karwiska has been documenting the
neons of Warsaw, and throughout Poland, since 2005 and
her coee table tome - Polish Cold War Neon - is a lavish
photographic record of the most iconic neons in the country.
An exhibition of her photographs has travelled extensively
throughout Europe and was instrumental in raising the pro-
le of Polish neon and letterforms to new audiences.
Not content with simply recording the objects, in 2012
the pair opened the Neon Museum in the fashionable
Soho Factory (ul. Miska 25, building 55, Praga Poudnie,
open Wed-Sat 12:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00, www.
neonmuzeum.org), a complex of design and architects of-
ces, shops, restaurants and publishers in the Praga dis-
trict of Warsaw. The museum is home to over 50 neons
and around 500 letterforms as well as a huge archive
of documentation, blueprints, photographs and original
plans relating to the history of these signs. Other buildings
around the complex play host to some of the neons from
the collection, so be sure to check out the wall spaces and
rooftops while wandering around. These outdoor exhibits
come to life during the hours of darkness, but do keep in
mind that the museum itself will be closed at night. An-
other important aspect of the museums work is to renovate
and maintain neons which are still in-situ around the city.
Their latest on-site project has been the renovation of the
Syrenka (the Warsaw mermaid symbol) perched upon
an open book and a giant pencil. The building previously
served as a public library and the neon can be seen at ul.
Grjecka 81/87 (D-5).
Interestingly, much of the renovation and restoration work
carried out for the museum is undertaken by Reklama, a
local company whose history dates back to the 1950s and
were the original producers of many of the neons which
are now being restored by them. Some of the highly skilled
employees still recall working on the originals during the
late 1960s and early 1970s!
Being a labour of love for Karwiska and Hill, the Neon
Museum is entirely privately funded by money raised from
organising events, sponsorship from private companies
(aptly, the energy company RWE is one of the major sup-
porters of the project) and the hard work of a passionate
team of volunteers. There is no entrance fee for visiting the
museum, but visitors can leave a donation. The gift shop
also features a unique and brilliant selection of collection
inspired designer products.
In order to see Socialist period neons in their original set-
tings in Warsaw a good starting point is the agship, early
1950s, Socialist Realist Plac Konstytucji (Constitution
Square, F-4) . Up until the early 1980s this large square was
aglow with vast neon signs. Today, amongst the giant bill-
boards and vulgar uorescent lights advertising the likes of
Samsung and Orange, a gem of PRL era neon is still in
place - the Siatkarka (the volleyball player) is situated on
the corner of the square and ul. Pikna (F-4) this leaping
female form blasts a volleyball into the air and then in a
sequence of neon lights the ball drops down the elevation
of the building. Designed by the famous artist and print-
maker Jan Mucharski in 1961 to advertise a sports shop of
the time, the neon was restored to its former glory in 2005
thanks to the initiative of artist Paulina Orowska and the
support of the Foksal Foundation Gallery.
Head back towards the city centre to check out the lovely
neon roses and letterforms outside the legendary health
and beauty centre IZIS (a business establish way back in
1927) at ul. Marszakowska 55/73 (F-4).
Warsaws stunning, in our opinion at least, early 1970s
Central railway station (Dworzec Centralny, A/B-4) may
have undergone a recent upgrade, but in keeping with
the design the faade has kept its chunky neon name.
The new pavilions in the main hall are also adorned with
retro style neon signs. Cross the road to Plac Delad
(B-4) and check out the 1963 Warszawa rdmiecie
(Warsaw City-centre) railway station with its functional,
austere and old-school socialist rooftop neon. Youll nd
more neons by taking a walk round the Palace of Cul-
ture (page 89). Ironically, the Technical Museum, which
is housed in the Palace, has only three of its neon letters
lighting up!
One of the crowning glories of Warsaw neons must be the
globe which sits atop the Orbis Hotel at the corner of ul.
Bracka and Al. Jerozolimskie (C-4). The globus Orbis may
look spectacular but sadly, the current version is in fact a
modern replica. The original, installed in 1951 was one of
the oldest neons in the city. Due to corrosion and neglect it
was deemed to be unrestorable and was replaced with the
new model in 2011.
From the Globe take a short stroll down to the palm tree
at the crossing of Al. Jerozolimskie and Nowy wiat, look to
the right, in the direction of Plac Trzech Krzyy, and youll
see the dynamic Dancing sign standing proud on the
rooftop of Nowy wiat 3/5 (C-4) . This neon was installed in
1962 to advertise Melodia, one of Warsaws most popular
post-war dancehalls.
One of the more bizarre neons to be found in the city cen-
tre can be seen on top of the Emil Wedel townhouse at
ul. Szpitalna 8 (B-3). The building dates back to 1893 and
was built in front of the famous chocolate manufacturers
original factory. Stop o for a hot chocolate in the glamor-
ous old-world Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel on the ground
oor of the building, before peering skywards to see a large
neon featuring a rather Brothers Grimm looking young
lad riding a zebra and carrying huge bars of chocolate on
his back! The whole weird scene is undersigned with the
companys trademark - E. Wedels signature.
New and fashionable businesses in the city now regularly
use retro Polish style neon signs for their logos. For a good
comparison visit Relax Cafe Bar, (see page 57) stroll 50
metres along the street, look up, and youll see the original
Relax Cinema (closed in 2006) neon sign at ul. Zota 8 (B-3).
The local snack chain Zapiexy Luxusowe (ul. Widok 19,
B-4) also uses a neon logo for its shop fronts which is heav-
ily inuenced by Polish designs from the 1960s.
Neon Muzeum Mat Fahrenholz
Neon Museum Photo by Mat Fahrenholz
Dworzec Centralny Mat Fahrenholz
Warszawa rdmiecie Mat Fahrenholz
Dancing Mat Fahrenholz
Wedel Mat Fahrenholz
Relax Cafe Bar Mat Fahrenholz
Arrival & Transport Arrival & Transport
BY TRAIN
Warsaws main train station, Centralna, is a hulking metal
giant that sits conveniently in the citys center and is the
main hub for trains arriving in the capital. Additionally pas-
sengers may disembark at the smaller Warszawa Wschod-
nia on the eastern side of the Vistula river between Praga
Pnoc and Praga Poudnie districts, and Warszawa Zachod-
nia on the border of Ochota and Wola districts to the west
of the city.
WARSZAWA CENTRALNA TRAIN STATION
Warsaw Central Station (Warszawa Centralna) is exactly what
it says on the tin: central. And thanks to recent renovations
were happy to say its now easy to navigate as well. Centralna
is looking better than it ever has with new storefronts and
modern upgrades that will impress those whove been away
for a while. From alighting the train you should take one of
the two facing escalators (if theyre working) in the centre
of the platform, which will lead you up into one of the un-
derground passages that ank the main hall. Whichever side
you come up on you will be one level below ground level
and the ticket hall. Kantors can be found in the underground
passageway between Centralna and the Marriott. Signs for
ATMs (bankomats) are everywhere, and though once sparse
the machines can be spotted at almost every turn.
Tourist info can be found across the street at the Palace of
Culture - just look for the i sign (Open 08:00 - 18:00. From
May open 08:00 - 20:00). They can provide you with maps,
etc. Tickets for the public transport system can be bought
from most of the newspaper kiosks. Left luggage is located
in the underground corridor that runs below the main hall.
Look for Przechowalnia Bagau, where stewards will look
after your bag, or opt for one of the plentiful lockers. Con-
nect to a Polish network via mobile by getting SIM and pre-
paid cards from the same newsagents.
Both entrances of the main hall are covered by taxi ranks,
and by passing via tunnels under the main road youll nd
bus and tram stops though once you enter the signs are
more of a hinderance than a help and you may never be
seen or heard of again. O cially sanctioned ELE taxis can
be found at the rank on Aleje Jerozolimskie and SAWA taxis
can be found rank on the Zote Tarasy side.
On the ground level there is a travel o ce run by Polish rail.
Find it on the Zote Tarasy side of the building to the right
of the stairs heading down to the platforms under the Cen-
trum Obslugi Klienta sign (info line 197 57, www.intercity.
pl). Open from 09:00 - 21:00, the multi-lingual sta (they
can even assist the deaf ) can search for the cheapest/easi-
est connection, sell you international and domestic tickets,
and can help plan your trip for you.
The selection of outlets selling food and drink at Centralna
has improved dramatically with the renovations. There are all
kinds of local and international coee joints, fast food chains
and kebab shops to grab a quick bite or pass some time. If
you have a lot of time to kill, Champions in the Marriott can
be reached via the underground passageway and oers a
far better place to sit and wait than the station itself, as does
the nearby Zote Tarasy shopping centre. Dont be alarmed
to nd Warszawa Centralna used as a drop-in centre by War-
saws homeless population - while most are harmless some
like to pass their time being drunk and abusive. Bizarrely,
while the Polish rail sta manning the ticket booths are mo-
no-lingual, the tramps in Centralna seem adept at begging
in a multitude of tongues.QA/B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 54, tel.
(+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones). Open
24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reserva-
tions cannot be made between 23:30 - 01:00.
WARSZAWA WSCHODNIA TRAIN STATION
QH-1, ul. Kijowska 8, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from
foreign mobile phones). Open 24hrs. Note that due to
system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made
between 23:30 - 01:00.
WARSZAWA ZACHODNIA TRAIN STATION
QD-4, ul. Tunelowa 1, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from
foreign mobile phones). Ticket of ce open from 03:30
- 24:00.
BY PLANE
Getting in and out of Warsaw by plane improved drastically
in recent times. The capitals main air hub - Chopin Airport
- got a modern overhaul, while budget carriers moved in
at the new Modlin Airport just northwest of the city. That
was until winter came and the Modlin runway cracked
apart (bravo). It has now nally been repaired, but the wise
men at WizzAir prefer to remain at Chopin, while Ryanair
recently resumed their ight schedule at Modlin.
WARSAW CHOPIN AIRPORT
(LOTNISKO CHOPINA W WARSZAWIE)
Warsaw Chopin Airport has recently seen the opening of
Zone CDE, a glass and steel giant that sits rather awkwardly
next to the older Zone AB (which is currently under major
renovation and will remain closed until 2015). Collectively
they are called Terminal A, and the spacious CDE now
handles all incoming and outgoing tra c. The hallway con-
necting the zones houses ATMs, exchange o ces, tourist
info, coee shops and snack marts.
WARSAW MODLIN AIRPORT
The brand new Modlin
airport looks like a shiny
overturned tin can nestled
in a forest in the middle of
nowhere, which is essen-
tially what it is.
Those looking to end up in
Warsaw city center have three main options for trans-
port: grab a cab or private shuttle, take a bus to the
capital, or board one of the green and yellow shuttles
that will take you to Modlin Train Station where you
then take a train to your destination. The train route is
economical (15z for shuttle and train) although slightly
time consuming. If money isnt an option Glob Taxi is
currently oering transport to the city centre for 99-
109z during the week (weekends after 22:00 add 30%).
Also recommended are Sawa Taxi and Taxi Modlin.
For other private transport options check out Modlin-
Transport.pl or look up AB Everest.
Overall, the most practical means of transport is prob-
ably to take one of the several private bus services avail-
able. Translud is the cheapest overall transport option
but Modlin Bus is faster and doesnt involve annoying
transfers. For a full listing of Modlin Airport Transfer
services check our our online guide.Qul. Gen. Wiktora
Thommee 1a, Nowy Dwr Mazowiecki, tel. (+48) 22
346 43 63, www.modlinairport.pl.
MODLIN TRANSFERS
AB EVEREST
Relieve the strain of standing
around looking lost and bewil-
dered at Modlin by booking the
door-to-door services of AB Ever-
est. Fill out the English reservation
form on their website and an English speaking driver
will be waiting to whisk you straight to your destina-
tion. Prices start at 40z per person but the price gets
cheaper the more passengers there are travelling to the
same address. There is an additional fee if you want to
go to further ung districts such as Ursynw, Wilanw
,Wawer, Targwek etc. Check their website for details.
Qtel. (+48) 722 261 731, www.abeverest.pl/en.
MODLIN BUS
Modlin Bus company oers two routes from the air-
port coordinated with airline schedules: one deposits
travellers outside Warszawa Centralna train station at Al.
Jerozolimskie 56C (at guarded parking) for 33z, while
the other either drops you at the Mociny metro station
for 29z or whisks you onward to d Kaliska for 44 z;
tickets can be purchased at the well-marked desk near
the airports exit, and all buses are equipped with wi-.
Qtel. (+48) 801 80 10 81, www.modlinbus.com.
TRAIN SMARTS
The Polish rail network is generally in decent shape
even if the rolling stock is by and large something you
may have travelled on in Italy some years ago. Certainly
better than Britains railways; youll nd most trains run
on time, are cheap, and dont crash. Travelling times are
generally pretty slow even on Intercity trains with lim-
ited high-speed sections of track throughout the coun-
try. That is being remedied but in turn this is causing
increased travelling times on many lines. Tickets are by
western standards very cheap with a rst -class ticket
to Krakw from Warsaw for instance setting you back
about 150z (about 40).
The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several
types of train. Express InterCity (EIC) trains are the fast-
est, newest and most expensive of the lot, with rst and
second class compartments holding up to six people
and seat reservations required. New rolling stock is ap-
pearing with open carriages and 230v AV sockets. The
Express (EX) train is less modern than the EIC but still
considered expensive, and also requires seat reserva-
tions. The EuroCity (EC) trains oer international connec-
tions and seat reservations as well. Cheapskates looking
to cut costs should opt for the markedly cheaper Twoje
Linie Kolejowe (TLK) which has second class seats that
often require no seat reservation and rst class seats that
do; the InterREGIO (IR) trains, which are the cheapest,
have only second class seats and require no reservation;
and the REGIOekspres (RE) which no longer has seat
reservations available online. With the budget options
you will pay buttons for the privilege, but your journey
is guaranteed to try your good humour.
More information on train times and prices check the
very useful www.rozklad.pkp.pl which has an English
option. There is the functionality to book tickets online
once you have registered (https://bilet.intercity.pl/irez/
index.jsp). This option allows you to book a ticket and
seat in one without the hassle of queuing at the station.
If you nd yourself faced with long queues in the train
station then youll be pleased to hear you can hop
on the desired train and buy a ticket direct from the
conductor. Youll pay a small surcharge for this (approx
15z), and credit cards are now accepted. Travellers are
expected to greet others in their compartment with a
curt dzie dobry, and it is taken as given that a male
passengers will help females or the elderly with any
heavy baggage.
Finally most stations throughout the country are ap-
pallingly lacking in signs denoting the station name
and its surprisingly easy to miss your stop. Commu-
nicating with your fellow passengers can save a lot of
time and frustration.
Arrivals Przyjazdy
Departures Odjazdy
Platform Peron
Fot. PKP S.A./ P. Krzywicki
and you should be heading in most cases for the Central
Train Station (Dworzec Warszawa Centralna) and its neigh-
bour, the Palace of Culture (PKiN). Parking in the central
area is generally available on-street where there are stan-
dard parking charges payable at roadside machines. Most
major hotels will oer some form of o-road guarded park-
ing. Be warned that Polish roads and Polish drivers are not
the best especially if you have driven in western Europe.
Indeed, Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road
fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the
pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of
poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of dif-
ferent tra c and, most of all, drivers who have no consider-
ation for anybody else result in the common sight of man-
gled car wrecks around the country. Police seem unwilling
to control irresponsible driving, and dont be surprised to
see cars shooting through red lights, cutting each other up
and staking a claim for the Formula 1 championship.
The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between
23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/
hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways.
Seat belts must be worn at all times and it is illegal for driv-
ers to use hand-held mobile phones. Following the letter
of the law all cars should be equipped with a rst aid kit,
warning triangle, re extinguisher, rear mud aps and right
and left hand outside mirrors. Flouting the rules will cost
you 200z (for using a mobile), 100z (not wearing a seat
belt) and up to 500z for speeding. The legal limit for drink
driving is 0.2 blood/alcohol level. Put simply, if youre
driving, dont drink.
EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as long
as they are valid, however citizens of countries that didnt
The taxi rank outside exits 1 and 2 oers three certied com-
panies: Super Taxi, Sawa Taxi and Ele Taxi. The 15-30 minute
ride to the centre costs around 35-50z, though be on guard
for unlicensed sharks who will try to charge three or four
times that. After hearing several complaints, we suggest
agreeing on the price with your driver before setting o.
Cheapskates can catch the brand new train into the city or
get bus number 175.
The train station can be found underground by turning right
outside of whichever arrivals area you leave from and going
all the way to the end of the covered section where you will
nd escalators taking you down to ticket booths. The SKM
trains run three times per hour and are red and white in co-
lour. Line S2 takes you to rdmiecie station in the city cen-
tre, while line S3 takes you to Warszawa Centralna station. To
take one of these trains you need a normal public transport
ticket (exactly the same as what youd use for the bus) that
are available from the ticket booths and cost 4.40z. The KM
trains run once per hour, are green and white, and will take
you to Centralna. They have their own ticket o ce at the sta-
tion with a xed price of 5,80z, but you can use an SKM ticket
here as long as you have the train driver validate it. Got that?
The train ride should take around 20 minutes. Bus stops can
be found in front of arrivals at Zone AB and Zone CDE. Buses
run frequently between 04:27 and 22:57 with journey time
taking approximately 25 minutes. At night when the 175
stops running travellers can take the N32 night bus, which
runs every 30 minutes.Qul. wirki i Wigury 1, tel. (+48) 22
650 42 20, www.lotnisko-chopina.pl.
WARSAW SHUTTLE
The company oers private airport transfer services at com-
petitive prices from 79PLN per run. Highest quality for the
best possible price. Call in advance to book or book online.
Qtel. (+48) 506 17 54 95, www.warsawshuttle.com.
BY CAR
Warsaw is located in the heart of the country and has ex-
tensive road links with other major Polish cities. Having said
that the competition on the roads front isnt erce. Roads
leading into Warsaw tend to be of decent dual carriageway
standard, though once you enter the city limits Warsaw
tra c can become a serious problem - particularly during
the week. Most major hotels are located in the central area
ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America)
will nd their licenses invalid (though that hasnt stopped
anyone we know from driving their girlfriends car). Carry
your license and passport at all times when driving.
Since April 2007 it has been compulsory for headlights to
be switched on at all times.
GUARDED PARKING
The underground parking is guarded while the other park-
ing is supervised.QB-3, ul. Krlewska 11 (Softel Warsaw
Victoria Hotel).
TAXIS
The days when cash bells would ring whenever a cab
driver would hear a foreign accent might have passed,
but its still always better to ring ahead rather than just
hailing a taxi in the street. In particular be vigilant when
taking a cab to the centre from the arrivals hall of the
airport; weve heard plenty of horror stories. The ac-
cepted fare from Warsaw Chopin Airport to the centre
is 35-50z; we suggest that you agree upon this price
with your driver before setting o in order to ensure
avoiding any shenanigans.
All the companies we list will usually have someone
on their switchboard who can speak English. MPT, the
state-run rm, can boast the most reliable reputation,
but you wont nd many cheaper than Super Taxi. Find
ELE taxis on the Marriott tower side of the central sta-
tion; its the second row of cars. Tipping is not expected,
but if your driver gets you from A to B without a detour
through the countryside then by all means, feel free.
ELE TAXIQtel. (+48) 22 811 11 11, www.eletaxi.pl.
HALO TAXI OKQtel. (+48) 22 196 23,
www.halotaxiok.pl.
MERC TAXIQtel. (+48) 22 677 77 77,
www.6777777.pl.
MPTQtel. (+48) 22 191 91, www.taximpt.pl.
SAWA TAXIQtel. (+48) 22 644 44 44,
www.sawataxi.com.pl.
SUPER TAXIQtel. (+48) 22 196 22, www.supertaxi.pl.
Warsaw Chopin Airport Boston9/wikipedia/CC BY-SA 3.0
CONTACT:
tel: +48 22 572 65 65
www.avis.pl
* NET PRICE PER DAY, MIN. 3 DAYS REQUIRED,
ECONOMY CLASS CAR, UNLIMITED MILAGE.
ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFFIC,
GET ON THE OPEN ROAD
AND EXPLORE POLAND
WITH GREAT CAR RENTAL
PRICES FROM 98 PLN
*
.
SPECIAL WEEKEND
OFFER FOR YOUR
CAR RENTAL.
Avis provide short-term and
long-term rentals, chauf-
feur drive service as well as
cargo van rentals. Theres over 1,000 models available,
equipped with air-conditioning, air bags and ABS for
your guaranteed comfort and safety. Also possible
to exchange and swap cars. Also at Al. Jerozolimskie
65/79 (B-4, Marriott Hotel) and ul. opuszaska 12a
(Wochy).Qul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48)
22 650 48 72, www.avis.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:30.
A wide range of cars
from the Fiat Panda
to the spacious Mer-
cedes E-class. All cars
are equipped with power assisted steering. Satellite
navigation systems are also available. Special rates of-
fered to those who order through the Joka website, and
go online to nd the latest seasonal promotions.QD-2,
ul. Okopowa 47, tel. (+48) 609 18 10 20, www.joka.
com.pl. Open 09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. Closed
Sun. Outside of these hours open on request.
One of the worlds
biggest car rental
companies oers
rental solutions tailor made for travellers (both short
and long term) that will suit all needs (9 dierent cat-
egories of cars are available; Europcar is present at all
Polish airports and many other convenient locations).
Europcar creates exible driving solutions to meet
your individual mobility needs. Note that the Radisson
Blue Sobieski is a meeting point (cars can be picked
up and dropped o here).Qul. wirki i Wigury 1
(Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 25 64, www.europcar.pl.
Open 07:00 - 23:00.
One of the worlds largest and
oldest car rental companies
oers a choice of solutions
from short and long rental periods to holiday cars.
Theres even a eet of limousines if youre interested.
Vehicles range from Seats to luxury Mercedes. Bonuses
include GPS and Sixt cards. Also at ul. Emilii Plater 49
(A-4, InterContinental Hotel).Qul. wirki i Wigury 1
(Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 20 31, www.sixt.pl. Open
07:00 - 23:30, Sat 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00.
CAR RENTAL BY BUS
If you come to Warsaw by bus, odds are you'll be landing
at the main bus station on Al. Jerozolimskie, while budget
options like PolskiBus drop passengers o at Dworzec Au-
tobusowy Metro Wilanowska, a short distance from the
Metro Wilanowska stop.
MAIN BUS STATION (DWORZEC AUTOBUSOWY
WARSZAWA ZACHODNIA)
Coaches arrive and depart - unless otherwise stated
- from the Warsaw West Bus Station (Dworzec Autobu-
sowy Warszawa Zachodnia). Find a currency exchange
and two ATM (bankomat) machines located in the main
hall. There is no Tourist Info point, for the closest you'll
have to make the journey into the Palace of Culture, Pl.
Delad 1 (entrance from ul. Emill Plater). There's a legiti-
mate left-luggage operation, as well as ve payphones
located in one of the side corridors (though you'll need
to buy phone cards to use them). You can do that by vis-
iting one of the Relay kiosks in the main hall. You'll also
be able to buy SIM cards, prepaid cards and transport
cards from here. Taxis to centre run between 20-30zl
(refuse a lift from any of the smiling unlicensed opera-
tors who oer you a lift). The bus running to the centre
is found right across a busy highway and getting there is
an adventure in itself seeing there are no signposts in the
subway leading there. Basically from the main hall duck
down under the sign saying Dworzec PKP, head down
the stairs, turn right, follow the corridor to its conclu-
sion, turn right again - you'll see two stairwells leading
to the surface. Take the left one and presto, there's your
bus stop. Confused? Not half as much as we were. Good
work Warsaw. To get to Central Station take bus number
127,158 or 517. At night you'll be needing and N35 or
N85. The journey takes approximately 15 minutes so buy
a 3,40z ticket valid for 20 minutes. Remember to validate
your ticket on boarding.QD-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 144,
tel. (+48) 703 40 33 30, www.pksbilety.pl. Ticket of ce
open 05:30 - 22:00.
POLSKIBUS
Note that the Warsaw-Gdask route leaves from Metro
Mociny.Qul. Puawska 145 (Dworzec Autobusowy Met-
ro Wilanowska, stance14), www.polskibus.com.
PRIVATE TRANSPORT
HELICOPTER.PL
Why travel with the masses when you can opt for your own
private ight in a helicopter? Helicopter.pl oers ights
throughout Poland via hubs in Warsaw and Wrocaw.
Flights take place in Eurocopters, which are renowned for
their safety and modern design. Provide the number of
people (and luggage) as well as your desired destination
to the sta and theyll draw up a quote.Qul. Ksiycowa
3 (Bielany), building #15, tel. (+48) 509 26 04 00, www.
helicopter.pl.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Warsaw has an extensive
bus and tram system
criss-crossing the city as
well as a good, but very
limited, metro system
running from north to
south. Over 1,500 buses
operate in and around
the city, and most run
from between 05:00 and
23:00. After that night
buses run on most routes
twice every hour. All night
buses display the letter N,
followed by a two digit number. Fast buses' (marked with
red digits) skip the smaller stops.
Tickets (all valid for use on metro, bus and tram) can be
bought from some kiosks bearing the green and yellow
RUCH logo, or anywhere with a sign reading Bilety. There
are now also a series of ticket machines with instructions in
English dotted around the city, and English translations are
printed on tickets.
A standard public transport single ticket costs
4.40z. If you're travelling to the further reaches of War-
saw you'll be needing a ticket that covers both zones 1
and 2 - these are priced at 7z. Note that the airport is
in Zone 1. Still with us? Good. There is also a 20 minute
ticket priced at 3.40z. Tickets valid for 24 hrs are priced
at 15 or 26z if travelling through both zones. They have
also introduced a new weekend ticket (avaible from
19:00 on Friday till 08:00 on Monday) which costs 24 z.
Children ride free until the end of the August of the
year they turn 7. (Really. Probably makes sense with
vodka. Have proof of age ID handy). Everyone else pays
full fare unless in possession of an ISIC card (in which
case you must be 26 and under). This entitles you to buy
a reduced ticket (ulgowy) which costs approximately
50% of the full fare.
You can buy single tickets from machines on most
trams and busses or from the driver, though you must
have exact change. Once you've got a ticket you will
need to validate it in one of the box-style kasowniks,
thus activating the magnetic strip on the back. On the
metro this must be done before you get on board. It
is no longer necessary to buy an extra ticket for ani-
mals or large pieces of luggage. Plain clothes ticket
inspectors regularly stalk the lines, dishing out 266z
for those without valid tickets (we understand quick
payment results in the fine being lessened). They often
don't look very official and you are within your rights to
request identification, or even do as the locals do, and
attempt to bargain them down.Qtel. (+48) 19 115,
www.ztm.waw.pl.
BUDGET
Qul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 40 62,
www.budget.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00.
City Basics City Basics
ELECTRICITY
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are
round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are
coming from the UK or Ireland you are definitely going
to need a plug convertor. The best place to pick these
up is at home as our residents Brits will testify although
if you do arrive without a covertor you can try your ho-
tel concierge or reception. If they don't have one the
best place to pick one up is at one of the big electrical
outlets often situated on the edge of town. Our advice
is save yourself the hassle and get one in the airport as
you leave.
HEALTH & EMERGENCY
In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for an
ambulance, 998 for the re brigade and 997 for the police.
Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the
relevant department. English speaking assistance is not
necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabili-
ties of the operator.
English, German and Russian speakers have the option of
using separate lines specically designed for foreigners in
distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both
numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land
line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles dur-
ing your stay. The lines are active year round with later
hours during the high-tourist season.
If you've woken up to nd you've got a raging headache, a
swollen foot you can't put weight on and vague memories
of some kind of calamity we suggest you sort it out by call-
ing a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notori-
ously long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clin-
ics can be found in the Directory in the back of this guide.
Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates,
a list of which can also be found in the Directory. If it's a -
nancial emergency your hopes will rest on a Western Union
money transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus
(kantors) can now carry out such transactions, just keep an
eye out for the Western Union logo.
For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section
at the back of this guide.
LAW & ORDER
In general Warsaw is far safer than most Western cities,
and visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime
does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pick-
pockets working tram and bus routes by the train station.
If you're in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside
your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left ly-
ing around. Those travelling by car are advised to use a
guarded car park. Avoid being ripped o by opportunistic
taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs, something to bear
in mind around the train station and airport. The o cially
sanctioned state company MPT (tel. 22 19191) is possi-
bly the best bet, and their switchboard features English
speaking operators. The vagrants and pondlife who gather
around the train station are by in large harmless and eas-
ily ignored. Warsaw's right bank has traditionally enjoyed
something of a no-go reputation, though is now fast be-
coming ever more trendy.
Staying on the right side of the law is significantly easier
for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are
rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you're determined
to make an idiot of yourself then make sure it's not in
front of the law. In recent years visitors ranging from
folks in Chewbacca costumes to complete fools who've
thought it's perfectly acceptable to drop trousers and
urinate in a city centre fountain have tested the patience
of the local law enforcement. Their tolerance threshold
is now decidedly low so don't push your luck. Those
who do may well be treated to a trip to Warsaw's pre-
mier drunk tank (ul. Kolska 2/4), a chastening experi-
ence which will set you back 250z for an up to 24 hour
stay. In return for your cash expect a strip search, a set
of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling
vagrants. Not to mention a hefty fine (credit cards not
accepted, of course).
The other well-known ways tourists can cross cops is by
jaywalking. If you are from a country which has no (or
doesn't respect) jaywalking laws, you'll be surprised to
see a crowd of people standing obediently at a crossing
waiting for the lights to change. This peculiarity has extra
eect if you are aware of how little Poles respect the rules
of the road in a vehicle, where it often feels like a survival of
the ttest. The reason for the obedience of this particular
rule is the fact that the local city police (Stra Miejska) will
quite freely give you a 50-100z ne for crossing a road at
a place where no crossing is marked or a 100z ne when
the walk' light is red. And don't think you are exempt by
being a foreign visitor. You are subject to the law too and
your non-residency means you will need to pay the ne
on the spot.
RELIGION
For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark
of Catholicism, ghting against the horrors of pagan inva-
sions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and
national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th
century, many turned to the church for solace and during
the communist era, underground resistance meetings were
surreptitiously held in churches.
The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a
genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a
way more profound than cynics in the West can under-
stand. Many Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II
single-handedly started the overthrow of Communism in
Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, that your
average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously. Those used to
the more easy-going habits of the West may nd the Polish
enthusiasm a bit unnerving at rst, particularly the solemn
and opulent processions that occur from time to time and
the droves that ock to mass.
FACTS & FIGURES
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and
is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea
(528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km),
Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and,
Ukraine (529km).
Longest River
Warsaw is split by the river Vistula (Wisa). At 1,047km
it is Polands longest river and ows into the Bay of
Gdask (Zatoka Gdaska).
Highest Point
The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499 metres) found
in the Tatra mountains in the south of Poland.
Population (2012)
Poland: 38,533,299
Warsaw: 1,715,517
Krakw: 758,334
d: 718,960
Wrocaw: 631,188
Pozna: 550,742
Gdask: 460,427
Katowice: 307,233
Local Time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Warsaw its 11:00 in Lon-
don, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish
summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last
Sundays of March and October.
LANGUAGE SMARTS
Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy
command of the English language. Many are also adept
at other European languages with German being the most
commonly spoken. Older Poles will ercely contest that
they have forgotten the Russian taught to them at school
but most will still have a reasonable understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal,
often resulting in personal degradation as shop assistants
laugh at your ustered attempts. That aside, learning a few
key phrases will smooth your time in Warsaw and may
even win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is one of the most di cult lan-
guages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside,
unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled the way they
are pronounced. This is a great help once you know how to
pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many
letters represent the same sounds as they do in English,
below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed
by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!
Basic Pronunciation
sounds like on in the French bon
sounds like en as in the French bien
is an open o sound like oo in boot
c like the ts in bits
j like the y in yeah
w is pronounced like the English v
like the w in win
like the ny in canyon
cz and like the ch in beach
dz like the ds in beds
rz and like the su in treasure
sz and like the sh in ship
drz like the g in George
r is always rolled
Polish Words & Phrases
Yes Tak (Tahk)
No Nie (Nyeh)
Hi/Bye (informal) Cze (Cheshch)
Hello/Good day (formal) Dzie dobry (Jen doh-bri)
Good evening (formal) Dobry wieczr (Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
Good-bye Do widzenia (Doh veet-zen-ya)
Good Night Dobranoc (Doh-brah-noats)
Please Prosz (Prosheh)
Thank you Dzikuj (Jen-koo-yeh)
Excuse me/Sorry Przepraszam (Psheh-prasham)
My name is... Mam na imi... (Mam nah ee-myeh)
ImfromEngland. Jestemz Anglii (Yehstemzanglee)
Do you speak English? Czy mwisz po angielsku? (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)
I dont speak Polish. Nie mwi po polsku. (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)
I dont understand. Nie rozumiem. (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
Two beers, please. Dwa piwa prosz. (Dvah peevah prosheh.)
Cheers! Na zdrowie! (Nah zdrovyeh!)
Where are the toilets? Gdzie s toalety? (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
You are beautiful. Jeste pikna. (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
I love you. Kochamci. (Ko-hahmchuh.)
Please take me home. Prosz zabierz mnie
do domu.
(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh
doh-moo.)
Call me! Zadzwo do mnie! (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)
Airport Lotnisko (Lot-nees-ko)
Train station Dworzec PKP (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
Bus station Dworzec PKS (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess)
One ticket to Jeden bilet do (Yeh-den bee-let doh)
MARKET VALUES
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices. Market values as of March 21, 2014
based on 1 = 4.16z
McDonald's Big Mac 9.40 z 2.26
Snickers 1.69 z 0.41
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 23.99 z 5.77
0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.79 z 0.67
0.5ltr beer (bar) 9.00 z 2.16
Loaf of white bread 1.59 z 0.38
20 Marlboros 14.70 z 3.53
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.86 z 1.41
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 4.40 z 1.06
History Basics History Basics
Early fortied settlements are
believed to have existed in what
is now the district of Brodo
as far back as the 9th century,
and while historians struggle to
conclusively agree as to exactly
when Warsaw was founded most
appear to accept that the rst
recorded mention of the city can
be traced to 1313.
Things started looking up for
the city in 1413, when the ruling
Dukes decided to shift the capital of Mazovia from Czersk to
Warsaw. Over the next century it gathered importance as
a trading point, and was incorporated into the Kingdom of
Poland in 1526. The town was expanding in both status and
stature, though nothing was to prepare it for the bombshell
that arrived in 1569. The Union of Lublin amalgamated Po-
land with Lithuania, and as such the decision was taken to
centralize parliament and move it from Krakw to Warsaw.
Twenty seven years later, in 1596, King Zygmunt III Vasa de-
cided to follow suit and shifted his Royal Court north as well,
thereby making Warsaw capital of this newly-formed com-
monwealth.
Testing times lay ahead. Between 1665 and 1668 Warsaw
was ransacked three times, and if it the natives thought that
was bad you should have seen their faces in 1700; the Great
Northern War kicked o when an anti-Swedish alliance com-
prising of Russia, Poland and Denmark launched the open-
ing attack. The Swedes werent having any of it, and by 1702
their counter-attack had landed them at the gates of Warsaw.
Over the next few years Warsaw was passed back and forth
like a bag of sweets, sustaining heavy economic and physi-
cal damage in the process. The war, a right epic scrap if ever
there was, drew to a close in 1721 and Warsaw was nally left
to pick up the pieces and move forward.
The Collegium Nobilium, a posh boarding school for the
landed classes, was opened in 1740, and this was promptly
followed by Polands rst library seven years later. This age of
enlightenment promised much for Poland, a fact not lost on
her three neighbours: Prussia, Russia and Austria. Little Po-
land was clearly getting too big for her boots, so the three
acted swiftly by imposing the First Petition of Poland in 1772,
a move which essentially robbed the country of a third of
its territory and population. Nonetheless, her three bully-
ing neighbours clearly hadnt counted on Stanisaw August
Poniatowski, the countrys last king, and arguably her nest.
It was under his leadership the Constitution of May 3rd
was ratied in 1791. This landmark code was the rst of its
kind in Europe (and only second in the world after the USA),
with reforms focused on handing more power and freedom
to the general populace. Poniatowski was hailed as almost
visionary in his outlook, however his ideas once more stirred
his neighbours into action. This time round both Prussia and
Russia moved to weaken Poland in The Second Partition of
Poland (1793), snatching away 308,000 sq/km of territory,
and reducing her to just 223,000 sq/m.
Provoked by this latest aggression the Poles fought
back launching The Peasant Uprising of 1794. Led by Ta-
deusz Kociuszko the insurgents scored a notable victory at
Racawicka, but eventually superior numbers told and the
rebellion ended in surrender. The following year Russia, Prus-
sia and Austria joined together to carve what remained of
Poland between them.
Napoleon oered the capital brief respite, and when his
armies marched eastwards in 1807 he created a semi-inde-
pendent Duchy of Warsaw. His failings on the battleelds of
Russia led to defeat, and within eight years Russian forces
had pushed the Frenchman back and regained Warsaw as
their own; Poland had eectively been wiped o the map.
Discontent with Russian rule was to come to a boil twice
in the following decades: rst in the form of the November
Insurrection of 1831, and then again with the January Up-
rising of 1863. Both rebellions were brutally crushed, and
saw more patriots packed o to serve penance in Siberia.
Strangely, however, it was these dark years that saw Warsaw
blossom. Under the auspice of Russian-born Mayor Sokrates
Starynkiewicz the city developed at lightning pace, and by
the time of his death in 1902 the town had acquired a mod-
ern sewage system, street-lighting, paved streets and over
2,500 newly planted trees.
Still, resentment over foreign rule continued to linger,
and it was only the outbreak of World War One that prom-
ised hope. The collapse of the Eastern Front saw the last
Russian troops leave in 1915, though these were immedi-
ately replaced with German uniforms. Only when Germany
signed the armistice in 1918 was Poland nally freed from
the shackles of occupation. Arriving overnight in a sealed
wagon, Jsef Pisudski, a patriot who had been imprisoned
in Magdeburg, reached Warsaw on November 11 to assume
leadership of the nation. By the time of his death in 1935
this national hero witnessed the introduction of the zoty, a
failed coup and the assassination of President Narutowicz.
Even allowing for these, nothing came close to the defeat
of the Red Army during the Polish-Soviet War of 1919-1921,
a triumph which not just guaranteed Polands short-term
future, but Europes.
The twenties and thirties saw Warsaw ourish into a con-
dent, successful city, alas, we all know what was to come. Sep-
tember 1 saw Nazi Germany start WWII with their attack on the
Westerplatte Peninsula in north Poland. By morning Luftwae
squadrons were rebombing Warsaw, and in spite of dogged
resistance the capital nally fell on September 30th.
The fate of the Jewish population, and the Warsaw Upris-
ing, is documented in detail elsewhere in the guide, so fast
forward instead to January 17, 1945. Liberation of sorts had
arrived, unfortunately for the Poles it meant spending much
of the following ve decades under Soviet hegemony. In
the wave of Stalinist terror that followed businesses found
themselves nationalized, and political and religious leaders
imprisoned.
Stalin died in 1953, but his legacy didnt. The Warsaw
Pact, a military treaty between eight communist states, was
signed in 1955 the same year Stalins parting gift to the city
the Palace of Culture was completed. A year on Pozan ex-
ploded like a powder keg in what turned out to be the rst
street demonstrations against communism. The communists
reacted in time honoured fashion, with their sts, and the
nal score stood at 76 dead (uno cial estimates suggest far,
far more) and a city defeated.
In a bid to appease the people several hardliners were
dismissed and Wadysaw Gomuka was appointed as Po-
lands premier. Limited social reforms and a small-scale lifting
of press censorship followed, and a political thaw set in. This
veneer of social happiness was shattered in 1970 when new
protests broke out, this time in Gdask. Forty four died when
the army suppressed the demonstrations, and for a while
things appeared to settle down. Edward Gierek came in to
replace Gomuka as First Secretary, and he set about turning
the country round. Living standards increased, and for a time
Gierek carried the tag of miracle worker. He wasnt. Gierek
had built a house of cards, propping up the Polish economy
with half-mad policies based on acquiring mountains of for-
eign debt. The oil crisis of 1973 saw the creditors come call-
ing and by 1976 price increases were in the pipeline. A fresh
batch of riots broke out across the nation, and military might
was once more relied upon to bring the people to heel.
The public was starting to get restless, but their protests
needed focus and direction. That came in 1978 when Karol
Wojtya, born in Wadowice close to Krakw, was appointed
Pope in 1978. Wojtya, who had adopted the name John Paul
II, returned to Poland the following year, and his whirlwind
tour of the country is seen by many as the pivotal moment
when the nation gathered courage to defy the system. Do
not be afraid, spoke the ponti to the masses, change the
image of the land this land. It was a veiled message, but a
clear one, and from there on the fuse was lit.
In the form of Pope John Paul II the Poles had found a spiri-
tual direction, what was lacking was a physical one. That came
in the surprising shape of Lech Wasa, an unemployed electri-
cian with an extravagant moustache and a podgy look. Within
the space of a second he went from no-one to someone and
bulldozed Polish politics into the 21st century. The year was 1980
and workers in the Lenin Shipyards in Gdask were fuming at
the dismissal of a female crane operator. Talk and promise of
strike was rife, and the atmosphere heated. On the spur of the
moment Wasa climbed a gate and addressed those below. In-
advertently he had made himself the public face of Solidarno
(Solidarity), a trade union that would prove the slingshot that
felled communism. This time round the protestors had learned
from their bloody mistakes and rather than confronting the
tanks simply locked themselves in the shipyards.
Amazingly it was the government that backed down,
on August 31 it signed an agreement meeting the workers
demands. The rst peaceful victory over communism had
been won.
This wasnt to last Solidarity continued to press for fur-
ther reform, and with the Soviet Union looking likely to in-
vade the Polish President General Jaruzelski declared Martial
Law on December 13, 1981. Though Solidarity was o cially
dissolved, and its leaders imprisoned, it continued to oper-
ate underground. When Father Jerzy Popieluszko, Solidaritys
chaplain, was abducted and murdered by the secret police
over a million people attended his funeral.
Renewed labour strikes and a faltering economy forced
Jaruzelski into initiating talks with opposition gures in 1988,
and the following year Solidarity was once again granted
legal status. Soviet leader Gorbachev had made it clear he
wouldnt intervene in Polish politics, and when Jaruzelski was
pressured into holding partly free elections Solidarity swept
the board with Wasa leading from the front. The regime
collapsed and in 1990 Wasa was elected the rst president
of post-communist Poland. Shock capitalist tactics were
used to rotate Poland into a free market economy, and while
this left several losers the nation emerged stronger than be-
fore. Acceptance into the European Union in 2004 was proof
of this, and Polands rise illustrated by the decision to award
it co-responsibility for the Euro 2012 Football Champion-
ships. Today Poland, with Warsaw as its gurehead, stands as
an exemplary member of the EU, and notably was the one
European nation to avoid recession in the recent global crisis.
HISTORICAL TIMELINE
1313: First written mention of Warsaw
1413: The regional capital of Mazovia is moved from
Czersk to Warsaw
1596: King Zygmunt III Vasa moves the Royal Court from
Krakw to Warsaw
1665-1668: The old town comes repeatedly under
siege, only just about surviving
1700: The Swedes invade Poland, capturing War-
saw two years later and installing Stanisaw
Leszczyski as a puppet king in 1704.
1764: Stanisaw August Poniatowski is crowned King
1772: Poland is partitioned for the rst time
1791: The historic May 3 Constitution is signed, inadver-
tently prompting the second partition of Poland
two years later
1795: Third Partition of Poland
1807: A semi-independent Duchy of Warsaw is created
by Napoleon. Its dissolved eight years later fol-
lowing Frances military disasters and Warsaw falls
once more under Russian control.
1830: The November Uprising breaks out
1863: One more anti-Russian rising breaks out, this one
know as the January Uprising
1915: The Russians leave Warsaw in disarray but are im-
mediately replaced with Germans. Independence
takes another three years
1920: The Red Army is defeated at the gates of Warsaw,
saving post-war Europe from communism
1939: Nazi Germany invades Poland.
1943: Jews remaining in the Ghetto rise against the Na-
zis. Their insurgency is crushed
1944: The people of Warsaw launch the Warsaw Uprising,
but are defeated following 63 days of resistance
1945: The Red Army liberates Warsaw but Poland is forced
to kowtow to Moscow for the next few decades
1989: The communist regime crumbles
2004: Poland enters the European Union
2010: Poland is plunged into national mourning after a
plane carrying President Lech Kaczyski and all
on board crashed while on its way to a memorial
service in Katy.
2012: Poland successfully co-hosts the Euro 2012 football
tournament with neighbouring Ukraine (though the
Polish team didnt make it out of the group stage).
Culture & Events Culture & Events
OPERA STAGES
GREAT THEATRE - NATIONAL OPERA
(TEATR WIELKI - OPERA NARODOWA)
QB-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22 692 02 08, www.
teatrwielki.pl. Box of ce open 09:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun
11:00 - 19:00. Tickets 28-160z.
PHILHARMONIC STAGES
NATIONAL PHILHARMONIC
(FILHARMONIA NARODOWA)
QB-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 10, tel. (+48) 22 551 71 28, www.
flharmonia.pl. Box of ce open 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00
- 19:00, Sun depending on the repertoire. Tickets 25-
250z.
THEATRE STAGES
DRAMA THEATRE (TEATR DRAMATYCZNY)
QB-4, Palace Of Culture, Pl. Deflad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656
68 44, www.teatrdramatyczny.pl. Box of ce open 12:00
- 19:00. Tickets 20-80z.
NATIONAL THEATRE (TEATR NARODOWY)
QB-2, Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. (+48) 22 692 06 04, www.
narodowy.pl. Box of ce open 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 -
19:00, Sun depending on repertoire. Closed Mon. Tick-
ets 40-90z.
THE JEWISH THEATRE (TEATR YDOWSKI IM.
ESTERY RACHEL I IDY KAMISKICH)
QF-2, Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. (+48) 22 850 56 56,
www.teatr-zydowski.art.pl. Box of ce open od 11:00-
14:00, 15:00-18:00; Sat 12:30 - 19:00, Sun 14:30 - 18:00.
Tickets 50-80z.
CONCERTS
10.04 THURSDAY
BRUNO PELLETIER
French-Canadian pop singer Bruno Pelletier was born in
1962 and spent much of his twenties singing in Montreal
bars before releasing his debut self-titled album in 1992. Ten
more albums followed, as did numeral musical roles, such
as the lead in Dracula - Entre lamour et la mort. The musi-
cian has racked up a whole bunch of Flix awards as well,
and is currently the spokesperson for La Fondation qub-
coise du cancer.QB-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Deflad 1, www.
makroconcert.com/pl. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets
105-245z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul.
Zota 59, B-3; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
17.04 THURSDAY
KENNY G
Kenny G, with his smooth jazz and glorious hair, is com-
ing to Congress Hall to play his greatest hits and/or songs
from his newest album Namaste. One of the best-selling
artists of our time, the Seattle-born saxophonist has sold
ART GALLERIES
STAIRS GALLERY (GALERIA SCHODY)
QC-3, ul. Nowy wiat 39, tel. (+48) 22 828 89 43, www.
galeriaschody.pl. Open 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Admission free.
ZACHTA - NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART
(ZACHTA - NARODOWA GALERIA SZTUKI)
QB-3, Pl. Maachowskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00,
www.zacheta.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 15/10z, Thu free.
CINEMAS
IMAX
Qul. Powsiska 31 (Sadyba), tel. (+48) 22 550 33 33,
www.kinoimax.pl. Box of ce open from 30 minutes
before the frst showtime to 15 minutes after the last
showtime. Tickets 26-35z.
LUNA
QF-4, ul. Marszakowska 28, tel. (+48) 22 621 78 28,
www.kinoluna.pl. Box of ce open depending on reper-
toire. Tickets 8-24z.
MULTIKINO ZOTE TARASY
Also at Al. Ken 60 (Ursynw), Wola Park, ul. Grczewska 124
(Wola); Centrum Targwek, ul. Gbocka 15 (Targwek).
QA-4, ul. Zota 59, tel. (+48) 22 462 81 10, www.
multikino.pl. Box of ce open from 09:00 to 15 minutes
after the last showtime. Tickets 19-35z.
CULTURAL CENTRES
JIDYSZ CULTURAL CENTRE
QE-1, ul. Andersa 15, tel. (+48) 22 620 47 33, www.
jidyszland.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
MAZOVIA REGION CENTRE OF CULTURE AND
ARTS (MAZOWIECKIE CENTRUM KULTURY I
SZTUKI)
QA-3, ul. Elektoralna 12, tel. (+48) 783 70 83 80, www.
mckis.waw.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun depending
on repertoire. Price depending on event.
UJAZDOWSKI CASTLE (MUSEUM OF MODERN
ART/CSW) (CENTRUM SZTUKI WSPCZESNEJ
ZAMEK UJAZDOWSKI)
QG-4, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64 08, www.csw.
art.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 12/6z, Thu free.
CULTURAL INSTITUTES
BRITISH COUNCIL
QB-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 59, tel. (+48) 22 695 59 00,
www.britishcouncil.pl. Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 -
13:30. Closed Sun.
Based on Opening Night
by John Cassavetes
directed by
GRZEGORZ JARZYNA
Premiere: 24-25.04.2014
Preview: 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 22, 23.04.2014
WWW.TRWARSZAWA.PL
Organizer
April 22-27, 2013 / Murnanw Cinema / Warsaw / 5 Andersa Street
10
TR WARSZAWA
TR Warszawa are a modern theatre that proudly boast
openness to new ideas and cultivation of tradition.
Over the past ten years, theyve managed to secure a
fair amount of popularity in Poland, attracting directors
like Grzegorz Jarzyna, Krystian Lupa, Krzysztof War-
likowski, Ren Pollesch, and Kornel Mundruczo. Its their
14th year of operation, and in that time theyve hosted
many visual arts and contemporary drama presenta-
tions - most recently the play T.E.O.R.E.M.A.T., which
was shown with English supertitles. They dont just
stay put in Warsaw, either - the cast has performed in
Edinburgh, Moscow, Berlin, Toronto, NYC, LA, Welling-
ton, Hong Kong, and many places in between.QG-4,
ul. Marszakowska 8, tel. (+48) 22 480 80 08, www.
trwarszawa.pl. Open 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00,
Mon 11:00 - 16:00, Sun 13:00 - 19:00 and before the
performance. Tickets 40-120z.
Culture & Events
a staggering 75 million records worldwide since his solo ca-
reer took o in the seventies.QB-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Deflad
1, www.goodmusic.com.pl. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets
110-300z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (ul.
Zota 59, B-3; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
22.04 TUESDAY
CUT COPY
Free Your Mind with Cut Copy (Paste?), as the Australian
electronic quartet leave their sunny homeland for Europes
uncertain spring. These Grammy-nominated boys have
been making music since 2001, but only rose to promi-
nence after releasing their second album, the 2008 In Ghost
Colors , which peaked at no. 1 on Australian charts.QC-4,
Basen Club, ul. Konopnickiej 6. Concert starts at 20:00.
Tickets 99-110z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl, Empik
(ul. Zota 59, B-3; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00)
and before the concert.
24.04 THURSDAY
NIGHT IN CALISIA
Join Grammy award winners Wodek Pawlik, Randy Becker,
and the Calisian Philharmonic Symphonic Orchestra as
they perform - in full! - their celebrated album Night in Cali-
sia, a 2012 work recorded in honor of the 1850th anniver-
sary of the founding of Kalisz. Did we mention that Wodek
Pawlik is the only Polish jazz artist to win the prestigious
award? Worth a listen.QB-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Deflad 1,
www.stx-jamboree.com. Concert starts at 22:00. Tickets
99-299z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (ul.
Zota 59, B-3; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
13.05 TUESDAY
NIGEL KENNEDY
The British violin/viola virtuoso is coming to Warsaw this
May, to the delight of many a classical music acionado.
The internationally-acclaimed and somewhat controversial
musician is known not only for his renditions of the great-
est violin concertos, but also his classical interpretations of
music by Jimmy Hendrix and The Doors. He plays jazz as
well, and has been know to dabble in Klezmer music with
Krakw band Kroke. QF-5, Stodoa Club, ul. Batorego 10,
www.stodola.pl. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 69-99z.
Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59,
B-3; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
22.05 THURSDAY
GORAN BREGOVI & THE WEDDING AND
FUNERAL BAND
Wedding, funeral - such is the prose of life. And no one
knows it like Goran Bregovis band. The brass ensemble
(part of a 40-piece orchestra) have been performing with
the Balkan rock n folk musician since 1998. The artist has
Polish ties as well - he has collaborated with Kayah and
Krzysztof Krawczyk and composed music for a whole
bunch of lms.QB-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Deflad 1, www.
stx-jamboree.com. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 99-
299z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (ul. Zota
59, B-3; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
JEWISH MOTIFS FESTIVAL
22.04 TUESDAY - 27.04 SUNDAY
10TH JEWISH MOTIFS
INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL
This lm festival focuses the lens on the Jewish nation -
its tradition, history, and identity, both past and present.
Filmmakers will compete in three dierent categories:
ction, documentary, and short/experimental, with over
thirty lms total, including the Oscar-winning The Lady
in Number 6. Though the bulk of the movies will be from
Eastern Europe, entries range from the United States to
Israel, and the festival has partnerships with similar lm
showcases in Brighton, Vienna, and Stockholm. This
years special guest is the celebrated Polish director An-
drzej Wajda!QA-1, Muranw Cinema, ul. Gen. Andersa
5, www.jewishmotifs.org.pl. Full schedule available at
www.jewishmotifs.org.pl. Admission free.
www.BodiesRevealed.pl
12.03- 30.06
Instytut Chemii Przemysowej
ul. Anny German
Warszawa
DISCOVER MYSTERY OF HUMAN BODY
BODIES REVEALED
12.03 WEDNESDAY - 30.06 MONDAY
BODIES REVEALED
An exhibition of polymer injected human cadavers and
body parts may not be everyones idea of a fun day out
but this hugely popular and world travelled exhibition
presents the human body in all its skinless wonder. Ed-
ucational, thought provoking and strangely beautiful it
may be but its also well worth taking a peek at some of
the online controversies regarding the dubious sourc-
ing of bodies from China and the Catholic Churchs
view that the exhibition disrespects the dead. In case
you need convincing that smoking and booze are bad
for you, this show can help.QIndustrial Chemistry Re-
search Institute, ul. Anny German 12 (oliborz), tel.
(+48) 501 30 30 21, www.bodiesrevealed.pl. Open
09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before clos-
ing. Tickets 35-60z. Family ticket 125-145z.
Culture & Events
31.05 SATURDAY
PAT METHENY UNITY GROUP
Jazz legend Pat Metheny (winner of approximately a mil-
lion Grammys) is coming to Warsaw with his newly formed
Unity Group, an extension of the Unity Band project started
in 2012 with drummer Antonio Snchez, bassist Ben Wil-
liams, and saxophone player Chris Potter. No Pat Metheny
- Anna Maria Jopek duo this time, sadly.QB-4, Congress
Hall, Pl. Deflad 1, www.go-ahead.pl. Concert starts at
20:00. Tickets 100-180z. Available at www.ticketpro.
pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 21:00).
FESTIVALS
06.04 SUNDAY - 18.04 FRIDAY
18TH LUDWIG VAN BEETHOVEN EASTER
FESTIVAL
Time for some classical music appreciation: the Ludwig
van Beethoven Society has been organising Easter Fes-
tivals aiming to popularise the great composers music
since 1997. This years edition features thirteen days of
concerts by international musicians at locations including
the National Philharmonic and the Royal Castle.QEvent
takes place in various locations, www.beethoven.org.
pl. Full schedule available at www.beethoven.org.pl.
Tickets 30-250z. Available at www.eventim.pl and
Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00
- 21:00).
SPORT
13.04 SUNDAY
ORLEN WARSAW MARATHON
Lace up and put your stamina to the test! The Orlen War-
saw Marathon will take you through the citys main streets
in a sports event that will have you remembering your
Poland trip for a long, long time (for better or for worse).
Its April, so the temperatures should be just right!QH-2,
National Stadium, ul. Wybrzee Szczeciskie, www.
orlenmarathon.pl. Event starts at 09:30. Registration
fee 139z.
THEATRE
11.04 FRIDAY
GAELFORCE DANCE
Gaelforce are the Ferrari of Irish dance - yup, thats right:
fast, furious, amingly red. Unlike the other river-dancing
ensembles, which are - presumably - Toyotas, Hummers,
and the occasional Lada or Polish Fiat, this troupe does
everything 100% live. Also of note, their original choreog-
rapher and star was the famed James Devine, a Guinness
World Record holder for tap-dancing speed, at a humming-
bird-like 38 taps per second.QB-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Def-
lad 1, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Performances start
at 17:30 and 20:00. Tickets 99-250z. Available at www.
eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3; open 09:00 -
22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
WARSAW CHAMBER OPERA
WARSAW CHAMBER OPERA
(WARSZAWSKA OPERA KAMERALNA)
The Warsaw Chamber Opera was founded in 1961 by
Stefan Sutkowski, who has served as its Managing and
Artistic Director ever since. The companys inaugural
production, performed on the 4th September 1961,
was Pergolesis La Serva Padrona. Since October 1986
the Opera has performed at its own theatre, a listed
building dating from 1775 whose audience contributes
to the acoustic sound created.
The repertoire of the Warsaw Chamber Opera spans a
wide variety of musical styles and genres: from medi-
eval mystery plays to the operas of the Baroque and
Classical periods, 18th century pantomimes, the operas
by Rossini and Donizetti, as well as works by contem-
porary composers.
The Warsaw Chamber Opera ensembles also give
regular concerts featuring chamber, oratorio, and sym-
phonic music of various epochs. In 1984 the Warsaw
Chamber Opera established the Research and Docu-
mentation Centre of Early Polish Music. It deals with the
research, publication, performance and recording of
newly-discovered works by Polish composers.
The music of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart has long oc-
cupied a prominent place in the companys repertoire.
The Warsaw Chamber Opera is the only company in
the world to have Mozarts entire operatic output in its
permanent repertoire and this unprecedented achieve-
ment has won the Warsaw company-wide internation-
al recognition. In addition to this the Warsaw Chamber
Opera has also organized the 4th Claudio Monteverdi
Festival, The Celebrations to Mark 400 Years of Opera as
a Genre, and An Ode to Europe Festival.
New projects launched in 2013 include Friday concerts
at the Royal azienki Museum, Wednesday concerts at
the Dominican Church, the educational cycles Family
Music Matinees and Opera Lovers Box, the Youth The-
atre, and the Marionette Theatre.QA-1, Al. Solidarnoci
76b, tel. (+48) 22 625 75 10, www.operakameralna.
pl. Box of ce open 11:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 3 hours be-
fore the spectacle. Closed Mon. Tickets 30-130z.
05.04 SATURDAY, 06.04 SUNDAY, 18.05 SUNDAY
IN THE FAIRYLAND OF THE MAGIC FLUTE
Give your children a proper introduction to the beauty
and wonder that is classical music by taking them to
this age-appropriate rendition of Wolfgang Amadeus
Mozarts The Magic Flute. The show is aimed at kids sev-
en and up and will be performed in Polish - but the mu-
sic breaks all language barriers, does it not?QA-1, War-
saw Chamber Opera, Al. Solidarnoci 76b, tel. (+48)
22 625 75 10, www.operakameralna.pl. Performance
starts at 11:00. Tickets 30z. Available at Warsaw
Chamber Opera box of ce (open 11:00 - 19:00; Sat,
Sun 3 hours before the performance. Closed Mon).
Restaurants Restaurants
AFRICAN
CAF BAOBAB
A million miles away from its previous incarnation as Sax
- the legendary down at heel haunt of poet Agnieszka
Osiecka, this venue is now a Senegalese bar and restau-
rant. Run by former basketballer and champion cocktail
mixer, Aziz, its a multi-cultural wonderland where youre
sure to nd someone who speaks your language. The bar
is decorated in rich woody colours, some nice large scale
photos from Senegal and piles of books about faraway
places. On Thursdays a local French chap hosts board game
nights, and if youre really lucky youll be here for one of
their splendid and impromptu outdoor African music
concerts. The Senegalese menu isnt half as scary as food
cowards may think, with all the meat and sh dishes well
worth trying.QH-3, ul. Francuska 31, tel. (+48) 22 617
40 57, www.cafebaobab.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (28z).
TA6GBSW
AMERICAN
BURGER KITCHEN
This seemingly straight forward American diner has an al-
most more french bistro vibe. The design is casual, cool and
lived-in and the hip, buzzy sta give you the impression
they really believe in what they are doing. Only the nest
Angus and Hereford eco-raised beef is used for the burgers
(aged for 16 days!) and the unique brioche style buns are
brilliant. Even the fries are exemplary as they are hand cut
daily and fried in 100% vegetable fat. The playful and excit-
ing experimentation in the kitchen means that new ideas
are regularly added or subtracted from the menu. Try the
gloopy shakes (banana and nutella!) and dont miss their
smart breakfasts and sophisticated Sunday brunch.QB-4,
ul. Widok 8, tel. (+48) 22 464 82 84, www.burgerkitchen.
pl. Open 08:30 - 23:00, Fri 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (20-59z). TA6UGSW
HARD ROCK CAFE
Is there anything more American than sinking your teeth
into a 10oz burger stacked with cheddar and bacon while
Warsaws come a long way fast, and nowhere is the urban
vibrancy more apparent than in the citys progressive cu-
linary scene. Today one can nd quality dining experiences
from most corners of the world, though the predominance
of Italian trattorias, sushi bars and designer burger
joints never ceases to amaze us. As the Polish palate is de-
veloping, so too is the service industry, though gru, ditzy,
or plain incompetent service is still far too common. As re-
gards to tipping, 10% is standard (easy math!), if a decent
enough job is done.
While our rigorously researched opening hours would
seem self-explanatory, be aware that venues will close their
doors if business is slow, and some restobars employ dif-
ferent sets of hours for bar and kitchen - the times we list
in such cases are for the kitchen, and the prices we list in
brackets denote the cost of the cheapest and most ex-
pensive main course on the menu.
Below is a selection of recommendations depending what
you are looking for:
BUSINESS
Restauracja Rana is an experienced local oering that
will impress the client and give you room to talk shop, while
Butchery and Wine recently won accolades as the citys
top restaurant. 99 Restaurant & Bar also continues its
reign as the place of choice for many an ex-pat business
meeting.
CHEAP
The many bar mleczny (milk bar) canteens are a sadly
declining legacy of the communist past. Theyre a unique
Polish experience, but dont expect culinary miracles. Do
expect culinary miracles at Kaskrut though - the food
looks a million dollars while strictly adhering to a nothing
over 29zl policy.
COUPLES
For a romantic and elegant night out Halka ticks all the
right boxes, while those looking for somewhere with a
more casually stylish atmosphere should try out the award
winning and groundbreaking Atelier Amaro. This is Po-
lands only Michelen starred restaurant so expect to pay a
little more for that unforgettable dinner.
KIDS
Hard Rock Cafe is always going to be a favourite and they
do know how to make your special ones feel like Miley or
Justin. Credit also goes to the childrens menu at Kuchnia
Funkcjonalna, which treats the wee ones like mini-mas-
terchefs.
LADS
Launch an attack on the pies, sh & chips and burgers at
Legends while downing pints of Spitre Ale and watching
the footie, or head down to the Old Town via BrowArmia
where the menu is perfectly matched to the liquid gold
from the on-site microbrewery.
POLSKI
Eat Commie style in Obera Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem,
or for a pre-revolutionary and elegant take on Polish cui-
sine Dom Polski a class act thats hard to beat. For a full-on
rustic Polish experience in the big city, the rustic style of
Zapieceks pierogie specialties is a good choice.
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning T Child-friendly
G No smoking A Credit cards accepted
6 Animal friendly Y Tourist Card accepted
B Outside seating U Facilities for the disabled
S Take away X Smoking room available
V Home delivery E Live music
I Fireplace W Wi- connection
J Old Town location
staring at the jacket worn by Jimi Hendrix on the cover of
Are You Experienced? The Hard Rock Cafe has based a busi-
ness around the concept of unrivalled burgers and impres-
sive memorabilia, and Warsaws chapter is no dierent. The
two-story venue features a wall made of 675 guitars and
menu items like hefty nachos and barbecue ribs. The dark
basement bar churns out heaping drinks that look like they
require two straws. Even the bathrooms are painfully cool,
labelled Guns for him and Roses for her. Dont miss the
weekday main+side+drink lunch special from 12-4pm for
29z.QB-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 222
07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (33-
115z). PTA6UGBSW
SOMEPLACE ELSE
SPE has been serving up some of the best burgers in Warsaw
for as long as we can remember, and a recent visit shows
little has changed: the Orient Express burger is a marriage
of lamb and roast beef doused in hallumi cheese and Medi-
terranean veggies - epic and creative. The large, open bar is
capable of mixing up anything you can think of, including
a spicy bloody Mary to accompany the Sheratons brunch,
which is served here on Sunday. Recommended particularly
if you are sleeping upstairs so you wont have far to haul your
happily fed self.QC-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Ho-
tel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa.someplace-
else.pl. Open 12:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun
12:00 - 23:30. (38-110z). PTAUEGSW
ARGENTINEAN
HOA BY MONDOVINO
An Argentinean steakhouse and seafood restaurant with
a classy and sensual interior; bullght reds, polished black
xtures, stripped brickwork and bright blue paintwork
blend together under the low lighting to create a nice at-
mosphere of old world Buenos Aires with a modern kick.
Though the chef is a native Argentine, Hoa only uses Pol-
ish beef, sourced from Limousin and Angus stock, which is
hung and cured in their own dry ageing room for a mini-
mum of 12 days. Although youll pay a hefty 86z for the
premium sirloin steak it will certainly be one of the nest,
softest, melt in the mouth hunks of meat money can buy in
this part of the world. It also comes with pomme frites and
a side salad. You wont fail to notice the encyclopaedic wine
list, but note that their stellar bar also includes 50 kinds of
whisky.QC-4, ul. Hoa 25A, tel. (+48) 515 03 70 01, www.
hoza.warszawa.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
(20-170z). PTAXSW
NEW
SALTO
Winner of the 2013 edition of Polands Top Chef competi-
tion, Argentinian born Martin Gimenez Castro now heads
his own signature restaurant in the citys glamorous Art
Deco Hotel Rialto. Enter via a separate door on ul. Emilii
Plater and prepare to be dazzled by the South American
modern style cuisine on oer. The sh and seafood dishes
include corvina, one of the most highly prized sh in South
the editor
kindly asked us
not to aDD photoS
of our food,
as last time we did,
people ATE the
whole page...
...YES. ITS THAT GOOD.
+48 22 464 82 84 | Widok 8, 00-023 Warszawa
www.burgerkitchen.pl
HEALTHY EATING
When it comes to trends, Poland is often late to adopt
what other countries would now consider routine.
So it goes with the green, eco-friendly fad, which has
reached a fevered pitch in many major cities while War-
saw is just beginning to embrace the idea. A group of
new (and already popular) venues are using their green
status as a major lure for customers in eort we expect
will soon be duplicated all over the city.
CAF 6/12
A prominent Warsaw caf, and one popular with ad
execs and scenesters. Making good use of the high ceil-
ings and socialist granite touches 6/12 features trance
like music and subdued lighting, adding a chilled out
element to this long-living establishment. However, this
place is so much more than a caf, and a thumb through
the menu conrms so; the smoothies, and theres mil-
lions to choose from, are hands down the best in the
city, while food choices include a range of light gourmet
bites youd imagine a Kate Moss character stabbing her
fork at.QC-4, ul. urawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 622 53 33,
www.612.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun
10:00 - 23:00. (20-65z). PTA6GBSW
KLUBOKAWIARNIA RESORT
What looks like a normal caf at rst glance is anything
but: old bathtubs have been turned into couches, metal
shopping carts now serve as seats, and the bar is made
from colourful stacks of old books (its worth a visit
to their Facebook page to see how they created this
unique bar). Even cardboard tubes have been reinvent-
ed as chairs. While the dcor is decidedly reused, the
food and drinks are true originals. Cocktails are made
with fresh fruit, while stomachs can be lined with what-
ver tasty concoctions the chef comes up with on a reg-
ular basis. Fortunately, you can drink your bottled beer
or Argentine cola without any guilt since Resort makes
recycling a part of its mission.QB-2, ul. Bielaska 1,
tel. (+48) 507 17 99 35. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 04:00. (10-12z). PA6BXSW
PESTKA ORGANIC BISTRO
An oasis of healthy eating in a simple, modern and
bright space. Pestka specialises in organic, bio and
traditionally produced Polish and European products.
All certied ecological dishes are marked BIO on the
menu with other ingredients sourced from small-scale
operations strictly adhering to traditional production
methods. White sugars, monosodium glutamate, arti-
cial avour enhancers and genetically modied scary
things are strictly o limits. Even the sh is checked for
high metal content. Judging by the popularity of Pest-
ka, it really looks like their colourful and healthy dishes
are proving to be a big hit in town.QC-4, ul. Bracka
6/8, tel. (+48) 691 70 69 00, www.organicbistro-
pestka.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun
12:00 - 19:00. (5-31z). PA6UGSW
America, and fresh oysters every Thursday. Mr. Gimenez
Castros encyclopaedic knowledge of the proper hanging
and preparation of beef can be experienced by diving into
the separate weekend steak menu. They also oer an ex-
tensive breakfast menu daily from 06:30 till 10:30.QF-4, ul.
Wilcza 73 (entrance from ul. Emilii Plater ), tel. (+48) 22
584 87 71, www.saltorestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30.
(45-96z). PTAUGSW
BRITISH
LEGENDS BRITISH BAR & RESTAURANT
Legends is settling gently into its rhythm as the thinking
(and eating) mans football watching venue of choice. Basi-
cally has two things going for it: good British grub (a steak
and kidney to relish is served), British ales and Sky Sports (if
the waitress can work out which channel is showing what).
What it needs now are a few pints spilt on the oor and a
few rowdy evenings to knock o the new look. Find it a
stones throw south of the Marriott hotel.QB-4, ul. Emilii
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.pl.
Open 10:30 - 21:00, Fri 10:30 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (25-50z). PTABXSW
CHINESE
CHINA GARDEN
Excellent food served in an elegant but relaxed atmosphere
down in the moneyed Wilanw district of Warsaw. Un-
like many Chinese restaurants the decoration is tastefully
done with tiled oors, lanterns and lots of reds and blacks
with an aquarium and fountain centrepieces. The food is
authentic with a particular focus on the cuisine of the Ji-
angsu region and the menu oers a comprehensive choice
of dishes including a beautifully presented Nanjing duck.
Of note if you are visiting the palace at Wilanw, youll nd
it a 10 minute walk along Klimczaka. Its denitely worth
the walk and arguably even the cab fare from the centre,
with a solid lunch special Mon-Fri from 12:00-16:30 for just
21z. (Also check out there second location at ul. Puawska
1).Qul. Kazachska 1 (Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22 241 10 10,
www.chinagarden.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (37-70z).
PTAUGSW
CZECH
U SZWEJKA
This aging establishment, equipped with Czech street signs
and images of simpleton Szwejk, is a bit of a Warsaw clas-
sic, and while it looks brash and basic the food is ne and
the portions are scary. The steak is inconsistent, so best stick
to ordering standards like sausages and schnitzel, and visit
in summer when a terrace opens onto Pl. Konstytucji. Pa-
tience is a good tactic to use with the sta, but theres cer-
tainly no criticism of the Pilsner on draught - cut the dismal
waiting times by ordering in steins.QF-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1,
tel. (+48) 22 339 17 10, www.uszwejka.pl. Open 08:00
- 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (19-45z).
PTAEBXSW
FRENCH
BISTRO PIGALLE
Positioned on the corner of ul. Hoa and ul. Poznaska,
Bistro Pigalle is a stylish addition to this increasingly lively
area. Huge Palladian windows let you look into the front
room with its rustic xtures and ttings and open kitchen,
where traditionally kitted out chefs frantically rush around
within grabbing distance of a lethal range of knives. The
French-style menu changes depending on the freshest
products available and its great to see so many sh and
seafood options on the list (they even have their very own
lobster tank!). Take part in the action by sitting round the
kitchen area or take shelter in the peaceful ambience of the
upstairs room.QB-4, ul. Hoa 41, tel. (+48) 881 00 01 82.
Open 11:00 - 01:00, Mon 13:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 03:00. (14-75z). PAGBW
CHARLOTTE. CHLEB I WINO
Sinking your teeth into Charlottes pain au chocolate you ex-
pect to hear La Seine bubbling past, but instead its your wait-
ress bringing giant jars of jams, honey and chocolate spread
to dig into - this doesnt look like typical French portion con-
trol. This French bakery/bistro is already a popular breakfast
spot, and a communal table in the center of the restaurant
is a genius solution for the many solo diners ducking in for a
pastry and a latte. The service at this start-up is still spotty, but
considering the crowds its also understandable. Charlotte is
the ideal place to sip a Perrier and nibble a tart without feel-
ing like le snob.QF-4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (entrance from Pl.
Zbawiciela), tel. (+48) 662 20 45 55, www.bistrocharlotte.
com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00,
Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (8-18z). TA6GBSW
LE BISTRO ROZBRAT
Unpretentious, uncluttered and wickedly stylish, Le Bistro
brings the tastes and ambience of an authentic Parisian
eatery to Warsaw. The menu features a range of classic
French dishes with contemporary tweaking kept to a mini-
mum. The wines are all sourced by the owner directly, and
the range includes some brilliant propositions from small
scale vineyards specialising in traditional and organic pro-
duction methods. Top o the whole exprience franaise
with the fact that the French owner, Alain Budzyk, is one
of the most amiable and passionate hosts you will meet in
the city.QG-3, ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. (+48) 22 881 78 08,
www.lebistrorozbrat.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (25-45z).
PTA6GBSW
LE VICTORIA BRASSERIE MODERNE
Located inside the Victoria Hotel, Le Brasserie sparkles
with a sophisticated colour scheme of beige, creams and
greys. Black and white light ttings, orange highlights,
window-like mirrors and comfy geometric seating add
a warm and spacious feel to Didier Gomezs design. The
slick open kitchen area draws your eye to the work of chef
Maciej Majewski and his team as they prepare seasonally
adjusted dishes based on classic and modern brasserie-
style French cuisine. Prices are seriously competitive with
From 15th April we invite y
o
u
to our summer garden
Business lunch
20 PLN
11:00 - 15:30
Get take away delivered to your home, hotel or
office through Royal Menu + 48 22 244 21 21,
www.royalmenu.pl
ul. Nowy wiat 23
tel. +48 22 826 35 01, +48 725 111 222
www.buddha.info.pl
www.facebook.com/Buddha.Poland
Al. Solidarnoci 129/131
Mob. +48 536 335 333
INDIAN FOOD -
BRITISH STANDARDS

Mon-Sat 11.00-22.00, Sun 12.00-22.00
info@namasteindia.pl | www.namasteindia.pl
AUTHENTIC IN
DIAN CUISINE IN WARSAW
ul. Nowogrodzka 15
+48 22 357 09 39
ul. Piwna 12/14 (Old Town)
+48 22 635 77 66
MILK BARS
Dont expect a gastronomic experience. Do expect a rare
insight into Eastern-Bloc Poland. Subsidised by the state,
this was food for the masses back in the day. With the fall of
communism many bar mleczny found themselves forced
out of business although a few of these canteens have sur-
vived and, aside from oering an interesting diversion for
amateur anthropologists, they make it possible to eat lots
in return for a handful of coins. Value is value wherever you
are. Queue up at the counter, peruse the choice of soups,
meat and veg on oer before placing your order, then
watch in awe as matronly ladies serve up everything from
budget excellence to bowls of slime. One tip is to go earlier
as the choice and quality in some tends to fall as the day
progresses. In Warsaw keep an eye out for ones we list here.
BAR MLECZNY FAMILIJNYQC-3, ul. Nowy wiat
39, tel. (+48) 22 826 45 79. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 17:00. (3-13z). PUGS
LENIWA GOSPODYNI
QF-4, ul. Nowowiejska 12/18, tel. (+48) 22 825 44 23,
www.leniwagospodyni.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. (10-20z). A6GS
MLECZARNIA JEROZOLIMSKA
QC-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 32, tel. (+48) 602 38 17 34,
www.mleczarniajerozolimska.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. (6-12z). PUGBS
of both seating styles. Kooky enlargements of antique ani-
mal and bird illustrations add a touch of surreal quirkiness
to the relaxing interior space.QB-2, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11,
tel. (+48) 22 828 01 30, www.restauracjanorma.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (26-61z). PTA6GSW
GALICIAN
C.K. OBERA
Budget priced dinners, pints of lager and a bubbly atmo-
sphere come presented inside a basic room decked out in
dark woods. The menu is all pork chops, potato pancakes
and plates of animals, and happily consumed by crowds
who recognise a serious bargain.QB-4, ul. Chmielna 28,
tel. (+48) 22 828 45 85, www.ckoberza.pl. Open 11:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (27-80z). ABXS
INDIAN
BUDDHA INDIAN RESTAURANT
Buddha really impressed when they opened up a couple
of years back giving us very good Indian food right in the
heart of the city. The decor is lush and extravagant, and
the curries follow a similar suit with a spicy slap that puts
them at the top of our list. The rest of the menu is mon-
strous, but helpfully benchmarked with symbols for hot,
vegetarian and even kid-friendly dishes.QC-3, ul. Nowy
wiat 23, tel. (+48) 22 826 35 01, www.buddha.info.pl.
Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (30-130z).
PTAUGBSW
MADRAS
This brightly decorated and dimly lit restaurant may well be
one of the smallest curry houses you ever visit - the down-
stairs area hosts a staggering two tables with a further four
at the top of the mini staircase - but the simply presented
and extremely well priced meals on the extensive menu
are outstanding. A big hit with locals and the ex-pat curry
fetish fraternity, we visited early on a Sunday afternoon and
the place was packed. Its easy enough to nd a more el-
egant and signicantly more expensive Indian restaurant in
Warsaw, but the quality of the food makes this tiny restau-
rant HUGE!QE-2, Al. Solidarnoci 129/131, tel. (+48) 536
33 53 33. Open 11:00 - 22:00. (20-60z). TAGS
NAMASTE INDIA
What began as a modest Indian-owned grocery store soon
expanded into a full-on ethnic restaurant and proved so
popular that a second location was needed to meet the de-
mand for delicious Indian cuisine. For o ce workers around
town, this - the original Namaste - remains the best, and
well agree that it simply doesnt get much better for Indian
food in the capital. Better still, the prices are set so low you
cant help but ask whats the catch. There isnt one; weve
tried pretty much everything on the menu, and have yet to
nd a weak link. Consider ringing ahead for takeaway be-
cause waiting times can be torture. Also at ul. Piwna 12/14
(B-2).QC-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. (+48) 22 357 09 39,
www.namasteindia.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 -
22:00. (20-40z). PTUGBSW
NAMASTE INDIA CLAY OVEN
When Namaste rst opened it proved such a success
story a new venue was needed to cope with the over-
ow custom. And if you thought the previous eort was
pretty good, then bow down and worship at what is up
there with the great Indian restaurants of Central Eastern
Europe. Theres no such thing as a bad meal here, but to
really hit the high notes order the butter chicken - incom-
parable to any other curry in town. Also at ul. Nowogrodzka
15 (C-4).QB-2, ul. Piwna 12/14, tel. (+48) 22 635 77 66,
www.namasteindia.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (22-40z).
PTAGS
SHEESHA LOUNGE
Its been a while coming but the lads from Sheesha have
nally made the move from their much loved previous site
on ul. Sienkiewicza to this three level site directly behind
the city centre Novotel. The t out is a jewel of Middle
Eastern promises and the second you enter you feel youve
been transported into a sultry world of wonder; Arabic x-
tures and ttings, the sweet smell of shisha, dim lighting, a
laid back atmosphere and a majestic menu of Middle East-
ern, Indian and fusion cuisine make it a tranquil daytime
oasis in the heart of town. In order to nd out why we say
tranquil daytime oasis, check out our clubs section listing
for Sheesha.QB-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 33, tel. (+48) 22 828
25 25, www.sheesha.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00
- 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. (28-48z).
PTAEBXSW
/ SHEESHALOUNGE
c|ak 8 restzarzat
8hLL8hk I8 hL 0LY 0L III
Al. 1erozolimskie 33
(22) 828 25 25, www.sheesha.pl infosheesha.pl
, Warszawa (behind hotel Novotel)
88LkkIk8 L00h IML 10:00-12:00 12:00-16:00
0IL8 8L ML0 16:00-3:00
nearby restaurants, making it an attractive proposition for a
stylish and upmarket dinner date or business lunch.QB-3,
ul. Krlewska 11, tel. (+48) 22 657 82 32, www.softel-
victoria-warsaw.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
(18-145z). PTAUGSW
FUSION
FUSION
Beautifully presented food in the modern, if regularly quiet,
interiors of the Westin hotel. The food here is very good, if a
tad pricey compared to city restaurants, but you get what
you pay for, with everything being of a superior quality.
Regular seasonal specials based around particular ingredi-
ents keep happy local foodies coming back for more.QA-3,
Al. Jana Pawa II 21 (The Westin Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450
86 31, www.restauracjafusion.pl. Open 06:30 - 10:30,
12:00 - 22:30; Sat 07:00 - 11:00, 12:30 - 22:30; Sun 07:00 -
11:00, 13:00 - 22:30. (45-150z). PTAUGSW
NORMA
Set close to the National Theatre and Opera house, Norma
bravely crosses the culinary arts of Poland and Italy and
presents a concise and interesting seasonally-adjusted
menu created by rising-star chef Kuba Korczak. Dishes like
ravioli lled with Polish white sausage, or the refreshing
curly kale, hulled barley and lemon grass salad. Choose
to sit at the high tables by the bar and ogle the shelves of
wine, or venture into the two classy dining rooms. If you
cant decide, try the cosy upstairs level which features a mix
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Restaurants
INTERNATIONAL
12 STOLIKW
If the idea of a restaurant not having a menu sounds pre-
tentious, well, we thought the same thing. Fortunately the
concept turns out to be charming at 12 Stolikw, a small
restaurant that writes the ever-changing oerings on a
chalkboard facing diners. Waitresses are happy to interpret,
and though the transient system means you might not get
the delicious tomato soup with pesto or handmade ravioli
that we did, their quality indicates you cant go wrong. The
high ceilings and stacks of wine crates are all that pass for
dcor, but we couldnt take our eyes o the chef temper-
ing chocolate on the centre island - call it dinner and show.
And were not the only ones who think so: 12 Stolikw was
named one of the top ve restaurants in Warsaw in 2011
by Gazeta Wyborcza newspaper.QF-3, ul. Krucza 16/22,
tel. (+48) 795 37 38 15. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 -
22:00. (25-70z). PTA6UGSW
BROWARMIA
Warsaws other microbrewery tends to mysteriously live in
the shadow of the more famous Bierhalle, and though it
fails to share the lively atmosphere of its rival, BrowArmia is
by no means second best. The interior has a dark beer hall
vibe with all the requisite pipes, dials and tanks on display,
as well as a good menu that trounces the competition -
the sticky wings pair perfectly with a BrowArmia pils. More
importantly the beer is top standard and best imbibed
on the seasonal terrace looking onto bustling Krakowskie
Przedmiecie.QB-3, ul. Krlewska 1, tel. (+48) 22 826 54
55, www.browarmia.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (27-66z).
PTAUEBXSW
BUFET CENTRALNY
We like to think of BC as a kind of post-modern milk bar.
Severe white tiles, cement skimmed walls, chunky tables
and a mish-mash of seating options abound. The bar
area, made up of dierent coloured and painted woods
is rather nice and behind the bar you can see the heads
and shoulders of the chefs in the kitchen, surely making it
a good contender for Warsaws most closed, open kitchen
award! The short and regularly changing menu is inter-
esting enough and the sliced ank steak with a medley
of vegetables that we ordered was cooked to perfection.
Somehow this place exudes cool and in the evenings is
packed tighter than a hipsters jeans. Check out their great
logo which features an engraving-style image of a sacred
heart with an embedded meat cleaver.QB-4, ul. urawia
32/34 (entrance from ul. Parkingowa), tel. (+48) 532 74
91 60, www.bufetcentralny.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri
12:00 - 04:00, Sat 13:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. (16-45z).
TAGBS
CONCEPT
Its hard to do justice to Concept restaurant, one of the most
impressive dining experiences to be found in Warsaw. Found
inside a former pre-war bathhouse this place is accessed
down a gloomy looking courtyard, anked on each side by
kebab stands and student dives. Dont turn back. Instead
duck through the entrance to nd yourself in a whole dier-
ent world. Decorated with glazed oor tiles, shimmery fabrics
and a skylight this place looks every inch a masterpiece. Keep-
ing up with the surrounds is the food, with a newly launched
menu that includes a near perfect steak.QC-3, ul. Kra-
kowskie Przedmiecie 16/18, tel. (+48) 22 492 74 09, www.
likusrestauracje.pl/pl/Restauracja_Concept. Open 18:00
- 23:00. Closed Sun. (35-99z). PTAEXSW
GRAND KREDENS
Few places in Warsaw match this for a ne, dare we say
splendid dining experience. The decor is tremendously,
enjoyably eclectic, and the menu - with a terric variety
of sh (amongst much else) to savour - well up to the
challenge of its rivals. It is not by any means the cheapest
place in town, but we would be fairly certain that how-
ever big the bill, you will leave feeling well satised. This
has been around Warsaw longer than we have and its a
treat.QA-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. (+48) 22 629 80
08, www.kredens.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (30-100z).
PTA6UIEGBSW
KASKRUT
Small venue with big ideas! Although we suspect the mod-
est, enthusiastic and friendly French owner would play
down the big ideas part, the truth is this is one of the most
innovative and experimental eateries in town. The three
starters/three mains/three desserts menu changes every
two weeks and consists of avour and ingredient combina-
tions which at rst glance may look bonkers, but in the end
youll feel silly for ever having questioned them. We had
salmon, caramelised pineapple and harissa served in at
bread and an amazing dessert which included aubergine
and halva foam served with meringue. Marvel at the easy-
going teams skills by seating yourself down in front of the
open kitchen. If all of this wasnt enough we later found
out that the change the menu every week! Considering the
whirlwind of innovation, its impressive that nothing on the
menu costs over 30zl.QB-4, ul. Poznaska 5, tel. (+48) 22
622 54 38. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
(19-30z). PA6GW
KUCHNIA FUNKCJONALNA
Seconds away from the hectic Washington roundabout,
its di cult to believe how tranquil and relaxed this place
is. A prime example of Functionalism designed in 1928 by
Czesaw Przybylski for the sculptor Mieczysaw Lubelski,
this smallish restaurant is an unusually harmonious blend
of rustic, modern and industrial elements. The short menu
oers a seasonally changing selection of European-style
dishes mixed with a healthy dose of Polish ingenuity and
locally sourced produce. The sta are some of the best we
have come across in Warsaw - helpful and extremely knowl-
edgeable about all aspects of the menu. Also, check out
the BWA and Asymetria art galleries which are based in the
building.Qul. Jakubowska 16 lok.7 (Praga Poudnie, en-
trance from ul. Estoska), tel. (+48) 512 89 38 98. Open
11:00 - 23:00. (25-60z). PTA6GBSW
SAM BAKERY & RESTAURANT
Fresh baked bread, plentiful salads, a shop with organic
herbs and superfoods like acai...its safe to say that SAM
has arrived in Warsaw with some strong credentials,
and after our visit we can declare it the Charlotte of
the student set. Youll nd the same lackadaisical ser-
vice and hipster clientele as the popular Pl. Zbawiciela
hotspot, and if you can overlook these aws youll be
delighted with healthy dishes that ensure youll forever
be able to squeeze into those skinny jeans.QC-2, ul.
Lipowa 7a, tel. (+48) 600 80 60 84, www.sam.info.pl.
Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (15-35z).
TA6UGSW
SKWER - FILIA CENTRUM ARTYSTYCZNEGO
FABRYKA TRZCINY
If location is everything then Skwer is the place to be.
Commanding a prime spot on Krakowskie Przedmiecie
a stones throw from the presidential place it looks
like an architects show-home yet manages to create
a decent atmosphere thanks to the students who ock
here for coee after lectures. By night the crowd gets
trendier as local arty-types turn up to be seen eating
the well-priced food through the glass walls.QB-2, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 60a, tel. (+48) 508 36 58 49,
www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (18-39z).
PTAUGBSW
SOLEC 44
Solec 44 marries two of the best things around at one lo-
cation: delicious food and the joy of beating the crap out
of your friends at board games. Come for the grub - which
is a delectable menu of fresh, local and seasonal options
plus hearty sandwiches - but stay for the chance to crack
into Settlers of Catan or Scrabble with a beer in hand. The
space itself (which can be tough to nd and is tucked
behind a kebab shop) is sprawling and ideal for long eve-
nings of dice rolling, especially when the sun stays out so
late.QG-2, ul. Solec 44, tel. (+48) 798 36 39 96, www.
solec.waw.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon 16:00 - 24:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (25-90z). TA6G
BSW
NEW
STARA KAMIENICA
Located in a secessionist era townhouse in the city centre,
at rst glance, Stara Kamienica comes across as a 1920s
styled and dark wood furnished traditional restaurant.
Chandeliers, vases of fresh owers, chintzy curtains, deco
style mirrors and subdued lighting give the venue a quiet,
old-world charm but its also more than that; changing
art exhibitions, live acoustic music evenings with an Irish
and country blues feel and an interesting menu of tra-
ditional Polish and French classic dishes with a modern
twist. Extra Brownie points for using the proper name
of zander instead of pike-perch in the sh section!Qul.
Widok 8, tel. (+48) 22 690 67 67, www.stara-kamienica.
com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (30-79z). PA6E
GBSW
MEAT LOVE
The audacious name would suggest a barbarian bone-
sucking, nger-licking orgy of dripping meat juice (to us,
anyway), but the reality is a woodsy, intimate, eco-minded
sandwich shop that eectively reclaims hipsterdom from the
vegans (though weve spotted two vegetarian options on
the menu). Meat Loves specialty is fresh rolls and baguettes
stued with tender, organic, hormone-free carnivorous deli-
cacies, and theres a good selection of teas, coee and other
drinks to accompany them (whiskey anyone?!). One also
cant help but admire the simple genius of their Belgian waf-
e topped with pulled pork and maple syrup. The sta have
all the hallmarks a hip urbanite should: tattoos and studs,
scraggly beards and suave haircuts, but the atmosphere is
family-friendly and completely sincere. A great addition to
the neighbourhood, in fact its places like this that create
the illusion pocket neighbourhoods even exist in the capital.
QB-4, ul. Hoa 62, tel. (+48) 22 404 67 36, www.meatlove.
pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 -
22:00. (13-20z). A6VGBSW
RESTAURACJA KULTURA
On the ground oor of the Kino Kultura, and therefore com-
manding one of the greatest locations on all Krakowskie,
the Kultura makes good use of the space by serving food
that lives up to its surroundings. Smart waitresses wearing
freshly starched aprons will bring a bowl of chodnik with
craysh to your table before presenting you with a bill that
should, given quality, be far higher.QB-2, ul. Krakowskie
Przedmiecie 21/23, tel. (+48) 784 04 40 51, www.
restauracjakultura.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 -
24:00. (35-62z). PTAGBSW
RESTAURACJA WILANW
An extraordinary excursion back to the days of a planned Pol-
ish economy, this much talked about classy restaurant serves
a range of international and Polish food in a blast to the past
atmosphere. Despite what they say about the place theres
no ignoring the service. Breathtakingly snobby, expect to
be treated like something the cat dragged in if youre not
dressed for the opera.Qul. S. K. Potockiego 27 (Wilanw),
tel. (+48) 22 842 18 52, www.restauracjawilanow.com.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (32-58z). PTA6GBS
SALVE
A two-level bistro set on a quiet street just away from the
hustle and bustle in the centre of the city. A small downstairs
area connects to an intimate upstairs with black and white
prints on walls tastefully decorated with striped wallpaper set
above wooden picture rails. The menu is concise featuring
an international selection of well-prepared and presented
dishes including soups, salads, pastas and meat dishes. Good
as a lunch stop, where the daily specials are well-worth the
few euro prices, it is a particularly recommendable as a place
for an intimate meal away from the crowds of Chmielna with
the food matched by a good selection of wines and cocktails.
QB-3, ul. Szpitalna 8 (entrance from ul. Grskiego), tel.
(+48) 22 828 42 85, www.grbistro.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (22-54z). TA6GBSW
Senses is about being honest and
emotional about the food. Using the
fnest produce we are innovative and
modern yet surprisingly familiar."
Andrea Camastra Chef de Cuisine
12 Bielaska Street, Warsaw
(Senator building )
P: + 48 22 331 96 97
M: +48 733 390 000
@: restaurant@sensesrestaurant.pl
www.sensesrestaurant.pl
Senses-Restaurant
"Modern, Polish inspired cuisine."
Ul. Peczyskiego 32 lok. U9
Mobile: +48 530 636 366
www.facebook.com/LaPanciaPiena
Select toppings and
a generations-old Italian pizza recipe
NEW
STREFA RESTAURANT & BAR
Situated in a sympathetically restored townhouse on one
of the most atmospheric and historic little streets in War-
saw, Strefa oozes old style glamour from the exterior and a
cool, modern, whitewashed brick and pale colour scheme
interior. Nothing is over the top and the more informal
bistro/bar area compliments the stunningly designed res-
taurant room beautifully. The kitchen, with award winning
chef Jarosaw Walczyk at the helm, specialises in seafood
and sh signature dishes as well as a range of Italian and
Polish based options. The ambience, quality and standard
of service more than justify the borderline high prices.
The Bistro side oers a separate menu and is open Daily
09:30 - 24:00.QF-2, ul. Prna 9, tel. (+48) 22 255 08 50,
www.restauracjastrefa.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (45-80z).
PTA6UGBSW
WINESTONE
The Mercure Hotels concept restaurant has proven itself a
popular venue for the local business set. The name Wine-
stone comes from the menus selection of Les Planches -
dishes served on simple stone tablets, and the incredible
range of ne wines in stock here. The menu also covers a
range of seasonally changing international and French style
dishes, as well as some modern interpretations of Polish
classics. Presentation is slick and the sta are wonderfully
polite and professional. The relaxing and modern interior is
perfectly unstuy and features Warsaws must have restau-
rant design element of the year - the open kitchen. There is
also a shop for taking home olives, wine and bread of your
own following your meal.QA-4, ul. Zota 48/54, tel. (+48)
22 697 37 55, www.mercure.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
(14-69z). PTA6UGSW
WINIARNIA RESTAURACJA SUPERIORE
This recently relocated restaurant and Wine bar inds itself
a few doors down from Krystyna Jandas (just nod and
pretend you know that shes a very famous Polish actress)
Teatr Polonia, making it an excellent choice for a few pre-
performance aperitifs and a bite to eat. The interior is slick
rustic with the shelves of wine bottles making up much of
the dcor. Italian wines take priority here, but youll also nd
a good selection of Spanish and Austrian wines. The heav-
enly aromas wafting from the kitchen will pull you, trance-
like, towards the menu. Regional Wednesdays serves up
dishes from a dierent region every week and Fridays see
an ever-changing seafood menu with fresh catches brought
in weekly - everything from mussels and oysters to sh and
octopus! They serve breakfast Mon- Fri 08:00 - 12:00;Sat, Sun
09:00 - 12:00. Prices for breakfast starts from 9 z.QF-4, ul.
Pikna 28/34, tel. (+48) 506 40 40 59. Open 08:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (25-60z). PTAVGSW
URAWINA REST & WINE
Stylish and spacious, this upscale resto wine bar looks like it
should be attached to a modern art museum and is about
as fashionable as they come, while still maintaining a level
of casual comfort that wont put o those of us who dont
spend half our paychecks on our hair. Post-modernist paint-
ings and slick plastic seating are o-set by elegant place
settings, fresh owers and gorgeously presented dishes.
Choose from sexy drinks and desserts, or dive into to-die-
for dishes like sea bass with creamy potatoes salsify and
claried butter. The place of choice for well-bred Varsovians
on rich dates, business meetings and mixers, in the evening
its a great cocktail and wine bar.QB-4, ul. urawia 32/34,
tel. (+48) 22 521 06 66, www.zurawina.eu. Open 12:00 -
23:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 14:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00
- 21:00. (34-68z). PTAEGSW
ITALIAN
NEW
GIANCARLO RISTORANTE ITALIANO
One only need mention the name Giancarlo Russo to any
of the legions of Italophiles in Warsaw to get them salivat-
ing at the mouth. His knowledge of the culinary arts of
Italy is second to none, with notable moments in his career
including preparing dinners for John Paul II and Benedict
XVI, his own TV show and an entry in the Guinness book of
records for preparing the worlds largest Italian mushroom
dish! The traditionally styled three roomed restaurant in-
cludes the popular, and slightly creepy, grotto room with
its cave-like atmosphere, subdued lighting and Hessian
covered seating. Dont miss their delicious set lunches Mon
- Fri 12:00 - 15:00 (25z).QC-4, ul. Wilcza 8, tel. (+48) 22
126 31 66, www.giancarlo.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00. (15-
110z). PTA6GBW
LA PANCIA PIENA
This neat little Italian eatery is located in the rapidly devel-
oping suburb of Bemowo, previously known as the bed-
room of Warsaw. La Pancia Piena (The Full Belly) presents a
full range of Italian dishes and is particularly well known for
its thin crust pizzas. The list of 42 pizzas will play havoc with
your eyes, but fans of our at friend hold the authenticity
in high regard. The interior is a homely, cosy and traditional
aair and the seasonal garden area out-front make it the
ideal place to chill-out on a warm summers evening.Qul.
Peczyskiego 32 lok. U9 (Bemowo), tel. (+48) 530 63
63 66. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 -
20:30. (20-60z). PTAGBS
MERCATO (ITALIAN DELI/BISTRO)
A traditionally designed Italian bistro and deli with the
added authenticity of a mixed clientele of diners, shoppers,
manic sta and a constant air of somethings going on but
youre never quite sure what. Rather than being annoying,
its all quite fun. The deli section is stocked with a great range
of products sourced mainly from small scale regional pro-
ducers in Italy. The kitchen uses the products available from
the shelves, fridges and hanging from meat-hooks in the ex-
tensive range of bruschetta, panini and salads on oer. We
recommend the extremely popular, well-priced and ever
changing two course hot lunch deal.QB-3, Prna 7, tel.
(+48) 509 00 78 03. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Fri 08:30 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 14-26 z. PA6GBS
LITTLE SICILY
IN THE HEART
OF WARSAW
TRATTORIA DA ANTONIO-
ITALIAN FLAVORS AND
SICILIAN TEMPERAMENT
Welcome to our newly opened Italian
restaurant, which is guided by one maxim:
La famiglia il pi importante- Family is most
important and our guests are our famiglia!
ul. urawia 20, Warsaw
Tel. +48 22 625 54 17
biuro@trattoriadaantonio.pl
www.trattoriadaantonio.pl
Restauracja Dawne Smaki
ul. Nowy wiat 49, 00-042 Warszawa
Tel: +48 22 465 83 20
info@dawnesmaki.pl
www.dawnesmaki.pl
DawneSmakiRestauracjaPolska
Polish Cuisine
NEW
TRATTORIA DA ANTONIO
Sicilian born chef Antonio Centurrino has been a xture
in Warsaws Italian culinary scene for as long as we can
remember and his fans will be delighted with his latest
venture on ul. Zurawia. The main room is an open, spacious
and bright area, while the second space has more of an in-
timate taverna feel. Being Italian, family plays an important
role in the proceedings, so a third room is kitted out as a
play room for kids. As well as a whole host of classics, the
comprehensive menu also features some house specials,
like marinated swordsh carpaccio.QC-4, ul. urawia
20, tel. (+48) 22 625 54 17, www.trattoriadaantonio.pl.
Open 11:00 - 24:00. (30-60z). TA6GBwW
TRATTORIA RUCOLA
Trattoria Rucola has taught us a simple truth: wed surely eat
more salads if they all came with smoky bacon. The smell of
garlic wafting onto Krakowskie Przedmiecie will undoubt-
edly lure you in, the strange leafy dcor will encourage
you to grab a table and the hefty menu of Italian staples
will mean a certain belt-loosening. Thirty pizzas dominate
the menu, but we were intrigued by the rare sighting of
doughy calzones. The aforementioned salads are soaked in
a lush balsamic dressing that no one should be ashamed to
lick from their ngers (we did). Also at (H-3), ul. Francuska
6 and (C-4), ul. Krucza 6/14.QB-2, ul. Miodowa 1, tel.
(+48) 888 57 54 57, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00
- 22:00. (22-59z). PTAVGBSW
JAPANESE
We could quite easily have a guide with only sushi restau-
rants such has been the explosion of them in recent years.
This is a selection of the places we feel you ought to know
about but you are likely to nd somewhere serving sushi in
every major mall these days.
BESUTO
Besuto has moved from among the prefab cabins and ram-
shackle pavilions inside Nowy wiat 22 to a more visible location
just down the street at 27. The good news is the sushi, which has
historically been very decent hot and cold cuts prepared in front
of your eyes, is still reliably delicious, and the new storefront is
signicantly less likely to make your date question your commit-
ment - - the interior also gets marks for being bright and mod-
ern. The bad news is that a better location means higher prices
than Besuto loyalists might be used to, but its worth it to dig
a little deeper.QC-3, ul. Nowy wiat 27, tel. (+48) 22 828 00
20, www.besuto.pl. Open12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,
Sun12:00- 22:00. (21-52z). PTA6VGBSW
ICHIBAN SUSHI
A ne city centre location for this small sushi bar chain. Small
is the key word here, not helped by the addition of an up-
per level, which makes the ground level area feel very low
and claustrophobic. The walls are totally covered in Japanese
calligraphy, making you feel like you are having your eyes
tested by a rather thorough Tokyo optician. Having said that,
the menu is fairly extensive and the miso soup garners high
praise from those in the know. Due to the ever-changing pro-
motions and voucher schemes, Ichiban is fantastically popu-
lar amongst the lunchtime eat something quick and get back
to the o ce crowd. Well priced and good quality, but not a
place to visit for a special dinner date.QC-3, ul. Nowy wiat
61, tel. (+48) 22 692 45 45, www.ichibansushi.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (20-30z). PTAUVGBSW
INABA
Heres a restaurant that was around years before sushi be-
came a fashion statement. Japanese owned and run every-
thing about Inaba strives for authenticity, and this is one of
only three places in town that can claim a Japanese master
chef calling the shots in the kitchen. A pleasantly panelled
interior creates a great atmosphere and those who want
more than just raw sh should take a look at the grill dishes
(be sure to try the salmon in teriyaki sauce).QB-4, ul. No-
wogrodzka 84/86, tel. (+48) 22 622 59 55, www.inaba.pl.
Open 11:30 - 22:00. (25-58z). PTAVGSW
KIKU JAPANESE DINING GALLERY
Our advice when coming to this typically Japan-in-a-packet
decorated place is simple: forget the sushi and just ask for
the noodle menu. Never before in this city have we eaten
such fresh, spicy and downright tasty noodles as we have at
Kiku. At around 25z a bowl, a portion of noodles here - and
the seafood ones are best - represents terric value.QB-2,
ul. Senatorska 17/19, tel. (+48) 22 892 09 01, www.kiku.pl.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (25-65z). PTAUVGSW
ROMA
Attention to detail is apparent at Roma, and every aspect
of this secretive restaurant hints at the neighbourhood
locales youd nd in the side alleys of Italy. The interior is
intimate and elegant. The menu itself is encyclopaedic -
were talking three pages of pastas - enabling Roma to
build a loyal fan base across the years. Were fans of the
onion and tru e cream soup, especially on rainy days,
and if you like strings of mozzarella dangling from your
lips were fairly certain you will too.QG-5, ul. Belweder-
ska 17 / ul. Grottgera 2, tel. (+48) 22 841 01 33, www.
restauracjaroma.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00
- 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (26-63z). PTAG
SW
ROMA BUKIETERIA
Pasta might be the kind of thing youre used to gorg-
ing on, but not here. Roma Bukieteria is all romantic
atmosphere - - think candles, terracotta and heavy
wood tables - - so bring your best manners and
your latest date. The only place with a larger selec-
tion of pasta has to be Rome itself, so take your time
when sorting through the massive menu. It may look
like a small trattoria, but the wine list suggests sea-
soned pros who will ensure a charming date.QC-4,
ul. Mokotowska 49a, tel. (+48) 22 621 03 11, www.
restauracjaroma.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 -
23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (24-69z). PTA6G
SW
OTO!SUSHI
One of our favorite sushi spots in Warsaw. Sure, the location
helps - who can argue with sitting outside on swanky Nowy
wiat? - but the helpful sta, great tea options and fair prices
put it squarely on top. A vegetarian sushi set for two with
22 pieces ranging from kappa maki to inari was tops, and
the tempura is crispy rather the soggy we often encounter.
Ducking in for a lunch special will get you heaps of fresh
sushi along with miso soup, a salad and green tea for a rea-
sonable price. The small storefront means you may have to
ght for a seat, though.QF-3, ul. Nowy wiat 46, tel. (+48)
22 828 00 88, www.oto-sushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (20-60z). PTAVGBSW
RY I RYBA
Congratulations are due to this sushi bar for being one of
the only Japanese eateries we can think of whose name
doesnt end in the letters o or i; instead theyve gone for
the straight-forward Ry i Ryba (Rice & Fish). This smart
little place is situated close to the famous Plac Konstytucji
at the entrance to the Pikna 20 modern o ce block and
attracts many of the suited and booted class from the
building. All the old favourites are on the menu, freshly pre-
pared by the Polish trained sushi masters. Belonging to the
same owners as the ever popular Pikna Bistro next door,
you can expect to have some cool jazz piped through the
sound system while you twiddle your chopsticks.QF/G-
4, ul. Pikna 20, tel. (+48) 22 627 41 50, www.ryziryba.
pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (12-42z).
PTA6UVGSW
SOTO SUSHI
Warsaws Sushi glitterati have always rated the original Soto
Sushi on Al. KEN very highly indeed, with many devotees
regularly making the pilgrimage to deepest, darkest Ursyn-
w in order to visit their favourite shrine. Well, now they
dont need to bother, Soto have opened another branch in
the centre of the city! The crisp white and minimal interior
highlighted with pale green neon wall lighting makes for
a rather sterile look which made me think of those ultra-
violet y zappers in butchers shops, probably just my over-
active imagination though. On the other hand, the overall
look of this sushi bar presents a feeling of cleanliness and
order which is reected in the beautifully presented and
carefully prepared sushi. The salmon tartare gunkanmaki is
yummy and a special mention has to be made for the killer
lemon pepper shrimp soup.QC-4, ul. Wilcza 26, tel. (+48)
22 629 94 85, www.sotosushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (15-56z). PTAVGBSW
TOMO SUSHI
Many claim you wont nd better sushi in Warsaw, and
who are we to argue with the masses. Tomos reputation
is well earned, and as such dont be surprised to be knock-
ing elbows with sushi snobs showing o deft chopstick
moves.QC-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 434 23 44,
www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (45-80z). PTA6UGB
SW
WASABI
Located in the stunning Metropolitan building, designed
by Sir Norman Foster, Wasabi is a smart and tranquil sushi
restaurant in one of the citys more upmarket areas. As well
as an extensive range of freshly prepared sushi, the menu
also oers a ne selection of Korean and Japanese hot dish-
es including bulgogi (fried marinated beef with vegetables)
and the heavenly fried duck in a teriyaki sauce. A selection
of Japanese beers, plum wines and sake complement the
dishes perfectly. For maximum eect and a more intimate
dining experience try to grab a space in the enclosed oor
seating area.QB-2, Pl. Pisudskiego 2, tel. (+48) 22 314 69
63, www.restauracjawasabi.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (8-55z). PA6UVGBSW
KOSHER
GALIL
Housed in one of the beautiful old townhouses on ul. Zielna,
bordering the area of the former Warsaw Ghetto, Galils menu
is a rich and wonderful fusion of Israeli, Arabic, Mediterra-
nean and Polish inuences. The restaurant holds a kosher
certicate from Rabbi Yosef Karasik and all products and
food preparation adhere to the strict Orthodox standards of
Kashrut. Splash out on one of the house specialities like the
succulent red wine and thyme marinated entrecote served
with Lyonnaise potatoes and a fattoush salad, or the date syr-
up glazed chicken breast. The drinks list includes kosher spir-
its from the famous Strykover distillery near d.In addition
to the elegant main dining area, the restaurant also has two
rooms which can be reserved for a more private dining expe-
rience.QF-2, ul. Zielna 37, tel. (+48) 731 49 26 34, www.
galil-restaurant.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00.
Closed Fri, Sat. (34-75z). PTAUBXSW
LEBANESE
LE CEDRE 84
This popular Middle Eastern staple hops across the river to
a more accessible location at the intersection of Jana Pawa
and al. Solidarnoci and thankfully brings all their reliably ex-
otic avours along too. The interior is a magenta masterpiece
and sets the scene for you and your Scheherazade to explore
the hefty menu. Our recommendation: though were fans of
the entrees like shawarma your best bet is to mix and match
hot and cold starters, of which theres a dazzling array (stued
grape leaves and grilled halloumi top our list).QA-3, Al.
Solidarnoci 84, tel. (+48) 22 618 89 99, www.lecedre.pl.
Open 11:00 - 23:00. (32-59z). PTAVGBSW
MEDITERRANEAN
PAROS
Paros is the rst and last place in Warsaw where a waiter pulled
out our chair and helped us with our coat - - colour us charmed
by the gallantry. That attention carried over to the meal, with
Greek staples like hefty salads and bite-sized spanakopitas all
imparting the taste of the Mediterranean. The restaurant itself
is so large it can be half lled with customers and still seem
ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 87/89, Warsaw
Tel. +48 22 497 57 72
Tel./fax. +48 22 827 30 54
e-mail: biuro@literatka.com.pl
www.literatka.com.pl
Restaurant Literatka
is pleased to invite you for delicious
dishes of traditional Polish and
international cuisine.
Restaurants
spacious, even with a packed white wraparound bar in the
middle of the room.QB-3, ul. Jasna 14/16a, tel. (+48) 22 828
10 67, www.paros-restauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-73z). PTAUEGBSW
RESTAURACJA OLIVA
Take a well-deserved break from the racket of Nowy wiat
and visit this unpretentious yet smart, light and airy restaurant
on the quiet ul. Ordynacka. The Mediterranean based menu
includes a healthy dose of homemade pasta dishes and
pizzas which are created to their own recipes. A stand-out
main dish is the succulent Guinea fowl piccata, game rarely
found on Warsaw menus. As the name suggests, the menu is
strongly inuenced by the use of olive oil and the restaurant
also has a display of ne olive oils from a number of countries
for sale. Sta get full marks from us for neither pretending
to be your best mate, nor seeing you as their worst enemy
- they get it just right. The corner location also has a nice ter-
race area for the warmer weather. Considering the ambience
and quality, prices are excellent.QC-3, ul. Ordynacka 10/12,
tel. (+48) 22 826 70 60, www.restauracjaoliva.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (26-62z). PTAGBSW
NEW
SENSES
Situated between the historic and war scarred Reduta Bank
building and the new Senator o ce complex, Senses is part
of the micro-elite of Warsaws world class, innovate and ultra-
modern dining establishments. Head chef, Andrea Camastra,
relishes the culinary traditions and produce of Poland, so the
menu may be strongly rooted in tradition but his dynamic,
uncompromising and experimental approach in achieving
his vision take things to unprecedented levels - the state
of the art kitchen features its own laboratory room where
miracles happen. The interior masterfully blends the feeling
of the surrounding architecture and the attention to detail
is mind-boggling. Prepare to have your senses blown away.
QF-2, ul. Bielaska 12, tel. (+48) 22 331 96 97, www.
sensesrestaurant.pl. Open 12:00 - 14:30, 17:30 - 22:00; Sat
17:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (84-110z). PAUGW
MIDDLE EASTERN
SOKOTRA
The restaurant takes its name from the isolated Yemeni is-
land of Sokotra, a geographic location once described as the
most alien-looking place on earth. Warsaws Sokotra is nei-
ther isolated nor alien-looking, its situated in the city centre
and its interior is a cool modernist take on the simplest of Ar-
abic design. Traditional Yemeni cuisine is heavily inuenced
by Indian, reected by the heavy, rich and well-seasoned
sauces with most of the dishes here - ideal for some serious
roti dipping. The lentil, lemon and green chilli soup was stun-
ning and the mutton, okra and tomato dish was great. Theres
standard table dining if youve just had your hip replaced, or
try the cushioned oor sitting area for an even more authen-
tic experience.QC-4, ul. Wilcza 27, tel. (+48) 22 270 27 66,
www.sokotra.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.
(20-40z). PTA6UGBSW
POLISH
There are basically three ways you can experience the Pol-
ish dining experience. The cheapest is at one of the surpris-
ingly large number of surviving communist era Milk Bars,
which you can read about elsewhere. Then there are the
chains of country cottage style places which turn out Pol-
ish staples of rye soup, stued dumplings and heaps of
meat and veg in gut-busting portions. The third form is
still a relatively new one and involves a growing number of
young, world-class chefs using their talents to bring Polish
cuisine into the 21st century. We can happily recommend
all three forms depending on the occasion. Take a look at
the places listed here to give you an idea of which is which.
NEW
22 BISTRO BURGER
Its at number 22, its a bistro and sells burgers. Heres hop-
ing they didnt employ Saatchi and Saatchi to come up with
the name! The burgers have some brilliant names though,
based on Warsaw landmarks and local lads from dierent
districts like the smart alec from Ochota and Jacky-boy
from Wola. They also oer up plenty of Polish staples (po-
tatoe pancakes, pierogi to balance out the menu). In the
beverage dept. the oer up ve splendid Czech beers, in-
cluding Skalak on draught. If youre looking for something
a little stronger try out one of their designer shots (Sour
Cherry, Bubble Gum Vodka)!QG-3, ul. Nowy wiat 22, tel.
(+48) 22 692 46 99, www.22nowyswiat.pl. Open 08:00 -
23:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00
- 23:00. (20-32z). PTA6GBSW
99 RESTAURANT & BAR
A xture on the Warsaw dining scene for over ten years and
still going strong in the local corporate lunch trade. An up-
dated design which is space age white and rather dashing
compliments a highly-recommended, global menu which
includes whats possibly the best steak in Warsaw. Located
within a stones throw of some of the citys nest hotels,
this is one of the most reliable places in town from break-
fast through to supper whether youre socialising, doing
business or a bit of both.QA-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 23, tel.
(+48) 22 620 19 99, www.restaurant99.com. Open 08:00
- 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 -
22:00. (29-99z). PTAUBXSW
ATELIER AMARO
Its not hyperbole to call Atelier Amaro one of Polands
most modern restaurants, and the folks at Michelin cer-
tainly agree; it is the rst restaurant in the country to land a
coveted Michelin star. All the credit goes to famed chef and
owner Wojciech Modest Amaro, who describes the cuisine
as where nature meets science. That science is molecular
gastronomy, which means almost nothing is as it seems: an
amuse-bouche arrives on the table with a ourish of dry
ice fog, revealing caviar atop a surprisingly citrusy foam.
Meals can be 3, 5 or 8 moments (what us regular folks call
courses) and employ traditional Polish plants like nettles
and beetroot in unexpected, highly creative dishes - like
Aleje Jerozolimskie 111, Warsaw
tel. +48 22 629 80 08, Mob. +48 697 900 000
kredens@kredens.com.pl, www.kredens.com.pl
Traditional Polish cuisine
Best venison and lamb in Warsaw
Live music
Regional wine, beer and spirits
Grand Cupboard - 16 years full of tradition
juniper ice cream hugging a miniature chocolate cake with
chestnuts (with dishes changing almost daily, your menu
will undoubtedly be dierent). Count us as impressed that
Amaro himself can be seen serving many of the dishes in
this intimate restaurant just inside azienki Park. An abso-
lute must for diehard foodies. Keep in mind that Fridays and
Saturdays they serve only 8 moment dinners and children
under 14 years of age are not allowed any day.QG-4, ul.
Agrykola 1, tel. (+48) 22 628 57 47, www.atelieramaro.
pl. Open 12:00 - 14:30, 18:00 - 22:30; Mon, Sat 18:00 -
22:30. Closed Sun. (185-320z). PAUGBW
BIAA G
Biaa G unseated a favourite restaurant, Restauracja Pol-
ska Tradycja, and used their name as the subtitle (in large
font). We were inclined to dislike it as a result, but after a
visit we couldnt help but enjoy. The menu is denitely
upper-crust - you can get a coated goose for 490zl if the
mood strikes - but the changing seasonal menu is both
more reasonable and creative. The dumpling with goose
and cranberry sauce was rich yet light, a description that is
also apt for the dacquoise meringue with coee crme. The
over-decorated interior, complete with Polish music from
the 1930s, has to be overlooked for enjoyment.QG-5, ul.
Belwederska 18 a, tel. (+48) 22 840 50 60, www.bialages.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (40-120z).
PTAGBSW
DAWNE SMAKI
Its great to nd a traditional Polish restaurant amongst
the endless string of international eateries on Nowy
wiat. Dawne Smaki thrives on old style Polish cooking,
so get ready to sample a comprehensive range of home-
grown specialities. The whole spectrum is pretty much
covered, from the basics like herrings in oil, pigs trotters
in aspic, potato cakes and pierogi, right up to some high
class mains like loin of venison and hand chopped steak
tartare. Although a rather fearsome looking fresh water
based predator may not be on your list of priorities, pike
has always been popular throughout Polands culinary
history; the more adventurous should try Dawne Smakis
version, which comes fried and served in a light creamy
sauce with craysh. Find Kasztelan and Green Bergen
beers on tap, plus live music daily. Private parties can rent
a VIP space too. QC-3, ul. Nowy wiat 49, tel. (+48) 22
465 83 20, www.dawnesmaki.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (19-95z).
PTA6UEGBW
DOM POLSKI
Much ink has been spilt over the virtues of Dom Polski,
some of it in these pages, but there is no getting away
from the fact that this is a good restaurant. Found in a
discreet villa on Warsaws millionaires row you can expect
Rolls Royce service from the minute you walk in. The food
is equally good, chosen from a menu which is mercifully
short, with just a couple of starters and several main cours-
es to choose from; how it should be, in other words. We
went for the urek followed by the potato pancakes with
smoked salmon and red caviar, and couldnt fault a thing.
QH-3, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 22 616 24 32, www.
restauracjadompolski.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (26-98z).
PTAUGBSW
DYSPENSA
Towards the southern end of Mokotowska, Dyspensa
specializes in churched-up Polish fare like pierogis
packed with veal and roasted duck. The newly stream-
lined interiors give the restaurant a sophisticated look
worthy of its location, with beige walls and white table-
cloths beneting from the pops of colour delivered by
strategically placed artwork. Try and grab one of the
tables by the window to get the best out of the place.
QG-4, ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. (+48) 22 629 99 89,
www.dyspensa.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (56-89z).
PTA6GBSW
FOLK GOSPODA
Far from promising on the outside, Folk Gospoda unravels
on entry as a glorious slice of traditional Poland. Its inside a
rugged interior of stout furnishings and ceramic pots youll
nd boys and girls in peasant attire rushing around carry-
ing plates of fortifying Polish food (think heaps of duck).
Indeed, the Polish highlands meet the city inside Gospoda,
and thats never more so than when the band strikes up to
hoot and holler over the sound of busy diners. Be sure to
check out the wild Polish trout, an eco-friendly dish that
will have your shirt buttons pinging o in no time. On
weekends the restaurant thoughtfully employs a kids cor-
ner with child minders from 12:00 - 17:00 so you can prop-
erly focus on your food.QE-2, ul. Walicw 13, tel. (+48)
22 890 16 05, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
(29-69z). PTAUGBSW
HALKA RESTAURACJA PO POLSKU
Named after one of Polands best loved operas Halka takes
its name seriously; interiors here have been painstakingly
designed to mimic a 19th century country manor, a clear
nod to Stanisaw Moniuszkos popular script. Dripping with
elegance and lordly touches this is upmarket Polish food at
its best. And despite what the well-done interior might sug-
gest, they even have a childrens corner.QE-3, ul. Paska
85, tel. (+48) 509 59 33 05, www.restauracjahalka.pl.
Open 12:00 - 22:00. (22-55z). PTAGBSW
LITERATKA
Located in the shadow of Zygmunts column on the War-
saws poshest street, Literatka is a traditional Polish res-
taurant with a cosy feel and an impressive range of Polski
and international dishes. Pierogi, pork and duck all make
an appearance as well as a more than acceptable sirloin
steak. Its not bad at all and a suitable way to nish a day
ploughing the tourist trail in the adjacent old town, and
the Mon-Fri lunch special (12:00-17:00 soup and a main for
19zl) is a deal.QB-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 87/89
(second entrance - ul. Senatorska 3), tel. (+48) 22 827 30
54, www.literatka.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (30-70z).
PTA6EBXSW
feel poland on your palate.
www.eatWARSAw.com
+48 513 605 618; +48 502 815 844
llat
food &
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tourS
EAT
WARSAW
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9 Prna Street, Warsaw
Tel: (+48) 222 55 08 50
www.restauracjastrefa.pl
Strefa-Restauracja-Bar
LOKAL.BISTRO
The former Grand Old Dame of Warsaws designer burger
bars, this bistro of high ceilings, chalky walls, blonde wood
and lots of varnished chipboard has apparently grown disen-
chanted with Warsaws latest food fad and has jumped o the
burger bandwagon. Fear not, the burgers are staying on, but
now youve got other grilled specialties to choose from, plus
regularly changing Polish and International dishes. Theres
a heavy emphasis on local and Polish-sourced ecological
ingredients, and drinks-wise theres rather such oddities as
beetroot juice, Kwas Chlebowy (a traditional yeast fermented
drink that may well get your bowels going) and Czech beers.
You can also pop in for breakfast Mon-Fri with sets ranging
from 10-15z.QB-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 64, tel.
(+48) 506 82 39 03. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 -
23:00. (20-40z). TA6GBSW
OBERA POD CZERWONYM WIEPRZEM
Workers of the world unite around a large choice of well-pre-
sented Socialist Bloc cuisine. Deriving its name from a former
meeting place for members of the early communist move-
ment, legend has it that even Lenin paid this place a visit in
1909. The interior is based on the style favoured by the 1950s
-1960s party elite, and the walls are bedecked with memo-
rabilia of the era. Somehow the owners have managed to
carefully side swerve tackiness and the whole experience has
a lovely, faded and nostalgic glam to it. Immensely popular
with locals and tourists alike (including Bruce Willis and box-
ing champ Lennox Lewis), 2012 saw The Hog voted one of
the 25 best and most interesting restaurants in the world by
the Spanish Trade Leaders Club.QE-2, ul. elazna 68, tel.
(+48) 22 850 31 44, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open 12:00
- 23:30. (24-69z). PTAUGBSW
RESTAURACJA RANA
A two oor pre-war villa full of chichi touches, owers and
crockery. Very pretty, but youll soon learn they attract re-
turn custom on account of the cooking, not the interiors.
The setting might look high end but the prices are certainly
not, and youll nd Rana recognized across the city as
one of the best dinner deals around. The veal liver with
onions and cherry sauce is divine. Plenty claim to open till
the last customer but only these guys are the real deal - if
theres people dining then the kitchen will stay open, and
that doesnt matter if its midnight or daybreak. Give a quick
call ahead to check.QG-5, ul. Chocimska 7, tel. (+48) 22
848 12 25, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00 -
24:00. (30-70z). PTAEGBSW
NEW
SENSES
Situated between the historic and war scarred Reduta Bank
building and the new Senator o ce complex, Senses is part
of the micro-elite of Warsaws world class, innovate and ul-
tramodern dining establishments. Head chef, Andrea Cam-
astra, relishes the culinary traditions and produce of Poland,
so the menu may be strongly rooted in tradition but his
dynamic, uncompromising and experimental approach in
achieving his vision take things to unprecedented levels -
the state of the art kitchen features its own laboratory room
where miracles happen. The interior masterfully blends the
feeling of the surrounding architecture and the attention
to detail is mind-boggling. Prepare to have your senses
blown away.QF-2, ul. Bielaska 12, tel. (+48) 22 331
96 97, www.sensesrestaurant.pl. Open 12:00 - 14:30,
17:30 - 22:00; Sat 17:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (84-110z).
PAUGW
SONY
Magda Gessler strikes again, but not with the usual overdec-
orated sit-down restaurant weve come to expect; this time
the celebrity restaurateur has created a grown-up snack bar
thats a complete knockout. A glass case in the middle of
the restaurant houses a variety of canaps to choose from
- wouldnt the French die to see smalec and pickles on a
canap? - and the menu is populated with small meaty
dishes primarily in the 4-12z range (can we call it Polish
tapas?). The simple homemade white sausage with onion
jam is on our city-wide best-of list, and with one entire wall
utilised for wine storage you can sip and snack your way to
pure bliss.QG-4, ul. Pikna 11 (entrance from ul. Krucza),
tel. (+48) 22 629 03 64, www.slony.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (12-49z). PA6GSW
SOWA & PRZYJACIELE
The pet project of well-known Polish master chef Robert
Sowa, this outstanding restaurant raises the bar not only
with its extensive range of tantalising dishes that sound
so good youll want to eat the menu, but also with the
level of hospitality. The ostensibly casual, modern interior
is elevated to elite by elegant table settings and excellent
service, and includes not one, but three VIP rooms, plus a
plush cigar room thats also stocked with Scottish single-
malt whiskies. To give you a sense of the calibre of the cui-
sine here, the pan fried sea bream with green pea pure,
herb-butter sauce and caramelized baby carrots was wor-
thy of an award. So delicious its almost embarrassing to eat
in public, we worry what might happen when we try the
venison.QG-5, ul. Gagarina 2 (entrance from ul. Czernia-
kowska), tel. (+48) 22 840 70 71, www.sowaiprzyjaciele.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (30-110z).
PTAUBXSW
SPECJAY REGIONALNE
This is a great little caf and deli serving out meat and po-
tatoes in all their varying Polish forms, but in small enough
portions to not come away in pain. Think Polish tapas - its
a great place to go and sample the full range of Polish
sausage meat and ham, especially when the prices are so
small. As an extra bonus, if you really like what you have you
can order some more from the deli to take home for later.
Furthermore, the owner is something of a mead fanatic
and they have a great hot and cold selection. Also at ul.
Gagarina 4 (Mokotw), ul. Dbrowskiego 3 (Mokotw), ul.
Feliskiego 52 (oliborz) and Centrum Handlowe Prome-
nada (Praga Poudnie).QC-3, ul. Nowy wiat 44, tel. (+48)
662 25 42 15, www.specjalwiejski.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00.
PAGSW
44 Nowy wiat Street, Warsaw
Traditional Polish Cuisine
and Regional Products
+48 662 254 215
restauracja@specjalyregionalne.pl
www.specjalyregionalne.pl
Find us on www.tripadvisor.com
Discover delicious Polish cuisine:
Original Polish Recipes
Meat and other ingredients from ecological
and family run farms
Souvenirs from Poland:
Delicious cold cuts, cheeses and preserves as well
as the best Polish mead, traditional Polish aged fruit
liquors and vodkas plus jewellery made from striped
int and amber joined with bog oak.
10% discount of of menu prices
in our Restaurant and Food Boutique with this ad.
Chmielna
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2 Bracka Street
(next to Trzech Krzyy Square)
tel. +48 519 875 767
www.ole-restaurant.pl
Spanish cuisine
Top quality products and
a casual atmosphere
Spanish Style KOBE beef
(Wagyu)
Excellent steaks - tender, juicy
and favorful
We also recommend:
Spanish aged-beef
U FUKIERA
The most famous restaurant in town with a guestbook
that speaks for itself; Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and
Sarah Ferguson are a few of the names whove taken a seat
here. The interior is a work of art, crowded with paintings
and antiques, its hard not to feel a part of history when din-
ing here. The food is the perfect indulgence with perfectly
presented game dishes. Your bill is a dierent matter, and
may present a double Dutch situation.QB-2, Rynek Star-
ego Miasta 27, tel. (+48) 22 831 10 13, www.ufukiera.pl.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (41-105z). PTJAGBW
WARSZAWA WSCHODNIA
Not content with running a rather large number of restau-
rants in the city centre, the Gessler clan now set their sights
on the never-quite-rejuvenated area of post-industrial
Praga with this new venture in one of the old buildings
of the Soho Factory complex. One of the two brick walled
rooms is vast, the smaller room has a central kitchen area
which diners sit around and watch the frantic goings-on
of the chefs at work. Ultimately, this island eating concept
is rather irritating, noisy and a tad aromatic in our opinion.
Mind you, none of that stops the young, rich and beauti-
ful from piling in here. The kitchen, under the command of
Robert Kondziela, presents a modern take on Polish clas-
sics and contemporary French cuisine, and serves it round
the clock.Qul. Miska 25 (Praga Poudnie), tel. (+48) 22
870 29 18, www.gessler.sohofactory.pl. Open 24hrs. (39-
78z). PTA6UEGBSW
ZAPIECEK
Packed through all hours this pierogi kitchen assumes the
Grandmothers country cottage look, with pots and pans
hanging from every shelf, and lots of hard timber touches.
Much talked about, their deliciously light dough pockets
come with all the llings you can imagine. If you dont fancy
a sit down then check their street-level take away window
for lunch-on-the-run. Also at Al. Jerozolimskie 28 (C-4), Al.
Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1, Arkadia).QC-4, ul. Nowy wiat 64,
tel. (+48) 22 692 41 35, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 11:00 -
23:00. (19-36z). PTAGS
SEAFOOD
OSTERIA
Some of the best seafood in Warsaw, with a menu featur-
ing fresh oysters, langoustines, parrotsh (yes, really) and
some very good octopus. The modern interior includes
hardwood and porthole nishes, as well as aquariums from
which African sh look on in alarm as their colleagues meet
a sticky end in the open kitchen.QF-3, ul. Koszykowa 54
(entrance from ul. Poznaska), tel. (+48) 22 621 16 46,
www.osteria.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00.
(49-122z). PTAGBSW
SPANISH
CASA PABLO
Spanish restaurants are few and far between in Warsaw, so
its not hard to stand out if thats the menu youre sling-
ing. Yet Casa Pablo doesnt rest on those laurels and ups the
ante with creative Spanish-inuenced cuisine. Try the deli-
cious Carpacho de vieiras- carpaccio from St. James mussels
served with homemade foie gras mi-cuit, cauliower and
grilled pineapple drizzled with olive oil . That doesnt even
touch on the desserts, or the specials weve seen...not that
youll need any extra enticements once youve explored this
unique menu.QA-3, ul. Grzybowska 5a, tel. (+48) 22 324
57 81, www.casapablo.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (45-85z). PTAUG
BSW
LA VIA
La Vina successfully brings a little slice of Spain to Warsaw.
A wine bar, tapas bar, restaurant and shop are all combined
in this light and smart space. The wines are all sourced from
northern Spain and selected by the Spanish boss (who is
also a part owner of the Bodegas Santa Runo vineyard),
and the kitchen is under the control of two chefs from Mal-
aga. Top food, rened wines, fantastically friendly sta and
a lovely attitude towards demystifying the snobbery of the
quality wine scene in Warsaw makes this one of our favou-
rite places in town.QE-4, ul. Tarczyska 1 (entrance from
ul. Raszyska), tel. (+48) 22 416 27 50, www.lavinabar.pl.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (20-80z). AXW
Well-known
and respected Osteria
invites you to enjoy delicious
fish and seafood...
This is the only
such restaurant in Warsaw.
Entrance from Poznanska 2 str.
(Ul. Koszykowa 54),
Tel. 22 621 16 46, Mob. 601 243 466
www.osteria.pl, restauracja@osteria.pl
OPEN: Mon-Sat 12:00 23:00 or last guest,
Sun 13:00 21:00 or last guest
LIVE MUSIC
OLE TAPAS STEAK RESTAURANT
The steak trend in Warsaw shows no sign of losing steam
as Ole adds to the sti competition amongst esh slingers,
but with a Spanish twist. That theme is clear as soon as you
step inside the small, modern restaurant which uses im-
ages of Flamenco dancers to line the mezzanine staircase.
Weve seen diners swoon while consuming the fresh tuna,
and the Spanish tortilla packed with zucchini makes an
ideal light lunch when you dont want a slab of beef weigh-
ing you down. Oh, but when you do, Ole spoils diners for
choice with Basque, Kobe, Galician and even Sirloin with
foie gras. Ask your server what he recommends, as ours
was liberal with solid recommendations.QC-4, ul. Bracka
2, tel. (+48) 519 87 57 67, www.ole-restaurant.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00. (60-200z). PTAGBSW
SOL Y SOMBRA
Formerly Cuatro Caminos Tapas Bar, Sol y Sambra seems to
have kept the formers kitschy dcor as well as their con-
sistently delicious cuisine (new owner, new chef ), which is
authentically Spanish to the core. The lunch special lands
you soup and a main, and we cant say enough for the
gazpacho when its in season. The paella requires a bit of
a wait but its well worth it, and the tenderloin with goat
cheese is also highly recommended. As the third tapas bar
to call this address home were thinking this one is a keeper.
QA-3, ul. Grzybowska 2 lok.16, tel. (+48) 22 404 70 11,
www.solysombra.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 11:00
- 21:00. (29-49z). PA6UEGBSW
More reviews online:
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
TEX-MEX
DOS TACOS
The 5th oor of the Millennium Plaza business and re-
tail building may not be the most attractive of settings
for visitors to the city but Dos Tacos is popular with the
people who work there, including the sta of the Mexican
Embassy. The darkly lit interior features a host of Mexican
style nick-nacks, a colour scheme inspired by the coun-
trys ag and a neat mosaic covered bar. The owner, An-
gelika Luengas Kaamaga, constructs the dishes from her
own familys traditional recipes and the sexy drinks come
courtesy of top Polish mixer ukasz Klocek.QE-3, Al. Jero-
zolimskie 123A, tel. (+48) 22 243 46 18, www.dostacos.
pl. Open 11:00 - 21:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (19-45z).
PTA6UGSW
WARSAW TORTILLA FACTORY
In a country that considers ketchup spicy were always
trepidacious when restaurants boast of any sort of heat
factor. Fortunately, the Warsaw Tortilla Factory isnt
kidding when they call their habanero mango salsa
explosive. The rest of the Tex-Mex menu also lives up
to expectations, with outsized burritos few adults can
finish and a cheesy Philly taco thats so wrong its right.
And dont forget chicken wings for 1z on Tuesdays. Heck
wed probably lick the guacamole off the floor and wash
it down with a Corona. We doubt anyone at the WTF
would blink if we did since the mixed crowd of locals
and ex-pats is equally as focused on their salsa-laden
plates.QF-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48) 22 621 86 22,
www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (29-79z). PTA6E
BXSW
THAI
NATARA
Located within the defensive walls surrounding the Old
Town, Natara serves up a vast array of authentic Thai
dishes. Dont be put o by the school project style ad-
vertising outside the restaurant, or the fact that the own-
ers have no interest in the ultra-modern Warsaw eatery
design trends of the moment. They stick to an old-school
colonial look, which actually suits the location perfectly,
and concentrating on what they do best - Thai cooking!
If the lengthy menu sets your mind spinning, we can
highly recommend the tom yum kung spicy coconut
soup and the green curry chicken, or simply go with
one of their daily specials.QB-1, ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13,
tel. (+48) 22 635 25 01. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (20-35z).
TAGBS
PAPAYA
Well never tire of recommending Papaya, an ice white ven-
ue rated as one of the best restaurants in the city. Oysters
come plucked from the aquarium, while an open kitchen
allows the pleasure of watching the chefs at work; these
guys dont miss a beat, and show o every trick in the book
as they create standout dishes like steamed bass in banana
leaf and class pad Thai.QC-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22
826 11 99, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
(32-265z). PTABXSW
THAI THAI
Run by the Godfather of Warsaws Thai cuisine, Sanad
Changpuen, this restaurant is 100% the real deal. No
messing around with fusion concepts or little Polish ad-
ditions. The ve strong Thai kitchen team stick rmly to
tradition and the results are spectacular. Based in the
National Theatre building itself, the exterior of hefty, grey
stonework gives you no inkling of the opulent interior
which awaits you. Black walls decorated with Thai designs
and gold curved ceilings create a very calming and relax-
ing environment. The well laid out seating areas also oer
you the option of dining in a more private space, great
for business meetings or an intimate dinner date.QB-2,
Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. (+48) 601 81 82 83, www.thaithai.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (37-120z). PTAUG
BSW
UKRAINIAN
KAMANDA LWOWSKA
Heres a restaurant that gets back to basics, oering up a
cavalcade of dishes that have been otherwise deleted from
modern Warsaw. Featuring peasant pictures and brick ceil-
ings this isnt the experiment in vanity you expect of ul. Fok-
sal, choosing instead to hark to the times when Ukrainian
We invite you to the best
oriental restaurant in
Warsaw
Reservations +48 (22) 826-11-99
PapayaRestaurant
www.papaya.waw.pl
16 Foksal Street
00-372 Warsaw
BEEF AND WINE
8 Moliera Street, Warsaw
Tel. (+48) 22 465 15 53
www.muumuu.pl
MuuMuuWarszawa
STEAK
The steakhouse has enjoyed prime (get it?) placement
on Warsaws dining scene of late, and talk of the best
cuts, grass-fed beef and who has the juiciest New York
strip can be hashed out at this list of Warsaws steak-
centric restaurants.
BUTCHERY & WINE
A wonderful addition to the Warsaw dining scene
winning points for originality and simplicity. This
bright, modern, relaxed venue has an open kitchen
and enough wine on display to oat a battleship. The
menu features a range of real steaks prepared exactly
to order and served on wooden boards with addi-
tional sauce and side options. While it doesnt have
to be steak (the rest of the menu also looked mouth-
watering) we cant imagine ever daring to order any-
thing. Highly recommended!QB-4, ul. urawia 22,
tel. (+48) 22 502 31 18, www.butcheryandwine.
pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (35-129z).
PTAGBW
BYDO I POIDO
The name may translates, rather unglamorously, to
Cattle & Troughs. Their steaks come from Polish, Argen-
tine, Brazilian, Scottish and Italian bred stock and theres
a range of burgers also on the menu. If you cant look
into the eyes of our bovine friends without bursting
into oods of tears while contemplating their future,
you may enjoy the humus veggie burger... although in
reality you probably dont want to be in here in the rst
place. The interior is rich and old fashioned with a lovely
green tiled bar and leather and rawhide seating. There
huge wine list is chosen specically to be paired with
their beef. Nurembergs cult Tucher beer, in pils and
wheat versions, is also available on draught.QC-4, ul.
Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 434 22 16. Open 12:00 -
23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00
- 22:00. (21-219z). PTA6UGBSW
MUU MUU
This attractive little restaurant on a short street near
the Old Town prides itself on using Polish beef from the
green pastures of Mazury and top-class Wagyu beef,
reared in the traditional Japanese way in Argentina,
so the cattle probably have tango music on their iPods
and Borges read to them while receiving massages. The
menu is split into meat, side orders and sauces, allow-
ing you to construct your own main course. The illustra-
tions of cuts and explanation of cooking methods are a
nice touch. Theres also several surf options if you de-
cide to steer away from the turf. The wine list is exten-
sive and red heavy.QB-2, ul. Moliera 8, tel. (+48) 22
465 15 53, www.muumuu.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (30-160z). PTA6UG
BSW
Cafs Restaurants
NEW
AROMA ESPRESSO BAR
Aroma may not be the rst name that springs to mind in the
world of coee shop chains, but this Israeli based company
opened its rst caf in Jerusalem in 1994 and their world class
robust coee stands head and shoulders above much of the
wishy-washy competition. The Warsaw bar is a small and
simple aair which also sells a range of cakes, pastries, salads
and sandwiches, including some Middle Eastern variants like
savoury burekas or the shakshuka breakfast. All eats are freshly
prepared to order, so no plastic tubs of wilting greenery or pre-
packed sarnies here. Check out their second location in Galeria
Mokotw on ul. Wooska 12, II oor (open 09:00-23:00 Mon-Sat,
10:00-22:00 Sun).QC-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 7, tel.
(+48) 22 827 02 21, www.aromaespressobar.pl. Open 07:00
- 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. PTAUGBW
BLIKLE CAF
A part of Warsaw folklore. This is where Charles De Gaulle
used to come for his doughnuts back in his Warsaw days, and
Blikle still sells a variety of desserts and cakes that are famous
in their own right. A classy, august venue, with a menu avail-
able until midnight that includes a range of breakfasts, lunch-
es, ice creams and a dessert selection that will have you in
heaven.QC-3, ul. Nowy wiat 33, tel. (+48) 22 826 64 50,
www.blikle.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. PTAGSW
CAFE PRNA
Making a stir with Warsaws intellectuals is Cafe Prna, a crack-
ing cafe set inside a shattered building that looks ready to keel
over. Youll be lucky to nd a seat inside this narrow venue,
even more so if theres a lecture or reading going on. Decorated
with pre-war photographs, Prna comes with a pile of well-
thumbed history books in the entrance, tiny tea candles and
a basement level to soak up any overow of customers. The
only disappointment here are the smoothies; nowhere near as
good as the venue deserves.QB-3, ul. Prna 12, tel. (+48)
22 620 32 57, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Mon,
Sun 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. A6GSW
CAF VINCENT
This place is a great French bakery and coee shop doing
a huge range of authentic pastries and bread. This is rather
unfortunate as the large queue and tiny shop space move
quickly while you dither, and you also risk being smacked
by a baguette if you turn around too quickly, but its worth
it as a coee and croissant will set you back less than 20zl.
Also at ul. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1, Arkadia).QC-3, ul. Nowy
wiat 64, tel. (+48) 22 828 01 15. Open 06:30 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 06:30 - 01:00. PA6UGBSW
LENIVIEC
The name roughly translates as Lazy Guy and Leniviec really
is one of the better trendy cafes for just collapsing in a heap,
drinking some ne coee from the comprehensive menu and
you can even select from aeropress, chemex or drip methods
of brewing. Nice, light and healthy food is on oer and early
birds can pop in for a selection of breakfasts from 7.30am. The
weekend themed buet breakfasts are also proving to be a big
hit. In the evenings check out the cocktail bar menu; budding
cosmopolitan alcoholics can sip on Manhattans or, seeing as
you are in Warsaw, delve into the Made in Poland section.
Waiting times can be a bit of a drag, but hey, youre a lazy guy,
whats the rush?QB-4, ul. Poznaska 7, tel. (+48) 22 350 77
77, www.leniviec.pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri 07:30 - 02:00,
Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. A6EGSW
PIJALNIE CZEKOLADY WEDEL
The reason everyone at Czekolady Wedel looks like theyre in
a daze is because this is the mothership of chocolate cafes,
ground zero for all things dark, milk and achingly sweet. We-
del is the countrys longest established chocolate manufac-
turer and one of the best known brands in Poland. This classy
venue, featuring comfortable seating in room after room of
tables, is located in what was once the factory and cafe of the
Wedel business. Youll still be able to taste the original choco-
late creations of its founders which were so popular that Karol
Wedel had to introduce a factory seal carrying his signature
to combat the number of forged Wedel products that were
lling the market in the 1860s. The menu here is impressive
in both its size and scope, covering every variety of chocolate
drink, dessert, tru e and ice cream dish imaginable. Choco-
late comas are inevitable.QB-3, ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. (+48) 22
827 29 16, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. PTAGBSW
RELAX CAFE BAR
Relax has long been one of our favourite escapes in the
city centre for ne coee (including aeropress and French
press) and great homemade cakes. Find it in part of the for-
mer Relax Cinema building, just behind the main drag of
big stores on ul. Marszalkowska. Check out the communist
era cinema neon sign on the end of the building which is
located around 100m from the caf itself. The lovely sta
spend most of their time nattering away to customers
and enthusiastically pointing out hard to nd destina-
tions to lost looking tourists on maps of Warsaw. Recently,
they have added a range of 25 regional bottled beers to
the menu and be sure to sample the Cider Inn - Polands
best home-grown attempt at the fruity elixir.QB-3/4, ul.
Zota 8a (Pasa Wiecha), tel. (+48) 22 827 35 65, www.
relaxcafe.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat
10:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:30 - 22:00. PA6GBSW
WAWEL
Yes it sounds awfully similar to Wedel, and their histories are
equally alike. Confectioner Adam Piasecki founded the company
in 1898 in Krakw and, making it through World War II, Wawel
became a recognisable Polish brand for sweets. Their Warsaw
chocolate lounge is located on swank Krakowskie Przedmiecie,
and though it is nowhere near as vast as the Wedel lounge nor
as daunting in menu choices, chocoholics can still indulge in a
ridiculous array of tru es and treats. The hot chocolates impres-
sively diverse for the adventurous, with Cherry Crush and Cin-
namon Islands recommended for those who like to compliment
their chocolate with additional avours.QB-3, ul. Krlewska 2,
tel. (+48) 22 828 14 99, www.wawel.com.pl. Open 10:00 -
20:00, Sat, Sun10:30- 21:00. PAGBSW
GREEN BAR
An oasis of veggie goodness in the meaty heart of
this carnivorous city, Green Bar keeps it simple - soup,
quiches, light meals and the like - but does so very
well indeed, and keeps prices low, ensuring it a steady
stream of customers - at lunchtime especially. Just
about your only veggie option this close to the city
centre, we say get here while you can.QB-3, ul. Szpi-
talna 6, tel. (+48) 602 27 17 50, www.greenbar.waw.
pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (12-15z).
PAUGBS
GREEN PEAS ECO BAR & COFFEE
If the mossy paint colour didnt tip you off, then the
menu at Green Peas Eco Bar & Coffee will: these folks
are seriously green. Everything is made from organic
products free from genetic modifications and chemi-
cals, theres no microwave on the premises, nothing is
deep-fried and dates are typically substituted for sugar
to maintain their quest for natural cooking. The menu
was designed with the environment in mind, which can
sound boring on paper but is delicious on the plate.
Breakfast runs from 10:00 -12:00 Mon-Fri, salads are just
15z and combine impressively fresh greens with home-
made dressing, and tofu is a word youll see often. Even
the cola is organic!QB-3, ul. Szpitalna 5, tel. (+48)
228261985, www.greenpeas.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (14-22z). PTA6G
BSW
Lviv was actually Polish Lww. The emphasis is rmly on
the good old days - before moustached dictators started
dictating Polands borders - and the design is a pleasing
jumble of craftwork and clutter. The menu, too, has been
painstakingly perfected, and includes such masterstrokes
as tatar and a meringue cake with raspberry mousse.
QC-3, ul. Foksal 10, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 31, www.
kamandalwowska.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (39-90z).
PTAEGBSW
VEGETARIAN
BIOSFEERA
An ultra-funky interior full of hanging canvas lamps, or-
ange dashes and shining wood nishes generates the hip
atmosphere normally lacking in Polish vegetarian haunts.
The Koza Italiana is a fantastic way to prime yourself for
the meatless main courses that come with names like
Made in Poland and Zucchini Cymersiki. Freshly squeezed
juices and fruit cocktails come as refreshment, and ex-
pect the thousand-yard stare if you ask for a beer and an
ashtray.QF-6, Al. Niepolegoci 80, tel. (+48) 22 898 01
55, www.biosfeera.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (29-39z).
TA6UGBSW
Nightlife Nightlife
BARS & PUBS
BEIRUT HUMMUS & MUSIC BAR
Our favorite new addition to Warsaws bar scene, Beirut is
pure atmosphere - the bar itself is made with sandbags,
after all - and oers traditional Lebanese snacks like olive
oil-soaked hummus and falafel to pair with your beer. While
the weather is nice the front is open to the street, letting
passersby marvel at the sound system and the unique hair-
styles of the hip sta.QB-4, ul. Poznaska 12. Open 12:00
- 01:00. PAUGBW
BRITISH BULLDOG PUB
One of the biggest anti-climaxes of 2012. Found in the
venue that for many years housed the uninviting London
Steak House, the British Bulldog pub saw the place com-
pletely rebuilt, a great year round terrace added (where you
can smoke) and the introduction of British and Irish beers.
A good looking menu and satellite television promised
some sort of choice for the English speaking expat zloty.
And then the British front man leaves shortly after the re-
launch and the place loses traction. Far be it for us to de-
clare this place as lost so early as it still looks impressive
and the beer is wet and the satellite connected, but its got
a lot to do particularly in the kitchen and on the service
front to get a thumbs up from us.QC-4, ul. Krucza 51, tel.
(+48) 22 827 00 20, www.bbpub.pl. Open 11:00 - 01:00.
PABXW
CAFE KULTURALNA
Cafe, bar and club, Cafe Kulturalna is an amazing space,
and unmissable if you appreciate a venue with char-
acter. Decorated with vinyl armchairs, artwork and
tasteless 50s chandeliers this is a magnet for the stu-
dent intelligentsia. DJs, film screenings, readings and
assorted artsy tosh regularly held. Find it in the Palace
of Culture on the Marszakowska side of the building
next to the theatre in the south-east corner.QB-4,
Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel. (+48) 22 656 62 81, www.
kulturalna.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
04:00. AUEGW
COCTAIL BAR MAX
We also question the spelling, but otherwise Maxs
concept is endishly simple, colourful and fun. Step up
to the expert bar sta, give them a rundown on your
favourite tipples, fruits and taste sensations and - HEY
PRESTO - they concoct a magical potion especially for
you! Weird and wonderful fruits and glamorous bottles
of booze are imported from around the globe. The main
bar area is a bright and airy aair with bleached wood
and multi-coloured seating. Tucked away at the back of
the bar you will nd the dark and mysterious special-
ist whisky and cigar area. Over 500 bottles of the wa-
ter of life stand like museum exhibits in dimly lit glass
cases. Stare in awe at the 32-year-old Port Ellen, yours
for only 550z a shot!QC-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48)
691 71 00 00, www.barmax.pl. Open 11:00 - 05:00.
PAUBXW
The explosion of bars and clubs in Warsaw over the last
few years means that you are never far from a fresh beer
or decent nightspot. On the other hand, its still easy to nd
yourself stranded outside the bolted doors of a suppos-
edly popular club on a Wednesday night, or staring into the
bottom of a pint glass in a deserted bar. Local knowledge,
trends and the Superman-like ability to scoot across town
in a ash (Taxi!) are prerequisites to achieving a success-
ful night out. But thats why you have us. The new money
crowd have certainly found a home amongst the posh eat-
eries and glamorous nightclubs around Pl. Pisudskiego
(B-3) and Pl. Teatralny (B-2); keep in mind, however, that
clubs in this area have such strict door policies that it may
be easier to get out of a mobile phone contract than get in
for a drink and a boogie. Warsaws young arty crowd pre-
fer the down-at-heel clubs and bars that have popped up
in the districts across the river: Stara Praga (G/H-1) and
the fashionable and increasingly gentried Saska Kpa
(H-2/3).
Opening hours listed here should only be treated as rough
approximation; in practise many bars and clubs will stay
open well beyond the call of duty if the need arises, but by
the same benchmark will happily bolt the doors if business
is slow. Below are a few rapid-re suggestions for those
who need an instant plan; the less desperate should spend
a bit more time scrutinising our in-depth reviews section.
LOCAL
Warsaws rst multi-tap bar Cuda na Kiju attracts a true
mix of punters, all of whom are attracted by the selection
of hand-crafted Polish and European beers. Across the river,
OSP Saska Kpa is a neat little bar and an amiable local
experience with the addition of classy Polish beers.
CHEAP
It has to be The Pavilions, a ramshackle collection of dive bars
in the courtyard behind Nowy Swiat that oers Warsaw drink-
ing in its rawest form. And if you dont mind herring and 5zl
vodka shots explore the 24 hour zakski bars like Bar Warsza-
wa de Luxe and Przekski Zakski to drink like a local.
COUPLES
The pricey custom cocktails at The Pictures are made with
the precision of an atomic scientist; it may not sound ro-
mantic...but it is! Judging by the numerous sexy couples
seated at the bar, Coctail Bar Max hits the right note with
their tell us what avours, alcohols and fruits you like and
well mix a drink specically for you concept.
SPLURGE
Panorama Bars cocktails are worth the dip into your wal-
let, as are the views from the 40th oor. If youre dressed to
impress hit up Club Capitol for the chance to drink like a
champagne-swilling Russian oligarch.
Piw iw wPa PPaww
CUDA NA KIJU
Finally the wait is over and Warsaw has its very own spe-
cialist draught beer bar. Housed in the former communist
party HQ, just next to the statue of General De Gaulle, this
3 level bar hosts an impressive 16 taps pouring beers from
around Poland and Europe. The enthusiastic and highly
knowledgeable barmen are constantly on the prowl for
new guest beers for the ever changing menu. The interior
design is unobtrusive and kept to a minimum which makes
for a nice and airy atmosphere and outdoors features three
dierent seating areas, so take your pick depending on the
weather. The owners should really be given a special prize
for this brilliant initiative, in true Warsaw tradition what
theyll probably get instead is dozens of copycat bars ap-
pearing around town in the coming months!QC-4, ul.
Nowy wiat 6/12, tel. (+48) 662 00 61 06. Open 10:00
- 02:00. PAEGW
HYDROZAGADKA
You will not nd a more unkempt bar than Hydrozagadka;
this place looks like its been ransacked by students, and its
almost advisable to check yourself for eas when leaving.
Decorations arent so much limited as virtually non-exis-
tent, and you wont nd much more than brick walls and a
collection of seats that appear to have been rescued from
the rubbish. But while it looks scruy this has emerged as
one of the best places in town, with o-beat performances
enjoyed by a crowd that doesnt get out of bed till way after
noon.Qul. 11 Listopada 22 (Praga), tel. (+48) 502 07 09
16, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 20:00
- 05:00 and during events. PAUEXW
KLAPS
Peculiarities abound in the drinking maze known as The
Secret Garden, but none come close to matching Klaps in
the weirdness stakes. Theres dildos for beer taps and a wall
of plastic boobs, and like everywhere in this area, you wont
nd beer costing more than 9z. Finding it is a challenge in
itself - its close to the passage that connects the courtyard
to Smolna.QC-4, ul. Nowy wiat 22/28 (Pavilion 12a).
Open 15:00 - 02:00, Mon 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 -
04:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PAX
KRAKEN RUM BAR
The rst thing that hits you upon entering this little sea-
food joint is the great smell which immediately makes
you think of harbourside cafes and holidays to the seaside
with your bucket and spade. The interior is reminiscent of
a shermans shed; sh-box wood, sun bleached driftwood
tables and chairs and a selection of old maritime imagery.
The seafood is simply presented, very tasty and well priced.
Also, try the Kraken rum which is made especially for the
bar by the brewers at Artezan - Polands smallest brewery.
The sta are a tattooed, trendy bunch, but rather than be-
ing press-ganged and forced to set sail for the Greenland
sheries, we suspect theyve just dropped out of uni and
possibly taken a pedalo for a spin on a boating pond.QB-
4, ul. Poznaska 12. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
02:00. PAUGBW
Nightlife Nightlife
KUFLE I KAPSLE
Hot on the heels of the original Warsaw real ale bar Cuda
na Kiju comes this beer drinkers paradise. The name
Kue i Kapsle means Beer Mugs and Bottlecaps and
the interior is a perfect blend of European traditional bar
design mingling with Polish features, such as the large
tiled heater in the back room. Twelve taps are on oer
and the bottled beer selection has more variety than a
Glaswegian glass recycling bin! An interesting selection
of bar snacks are also available; biltong, prunes wrapped
in bacon and warm French pastry with savoury toppings.
Keen to spread the gospel, the owners are also respon-
sible for the Warsaw beer trail map, just ask at the bar. In
contrast to many other local bars, expect it to be packed
and buzzing from around 17:00. We love it!QB/C-4, ul.
Nowogrodzka 25, tel. (+48) 22 127 72 18. Open 14:00
- 02:00, Fri 14:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 -
02:00. AGBW
OSP SASKA KPA
Sharing none of the pretence of nearby ul. Francuska,
this great caf, social club and re station (crazy, but
true!) is by far one of the jolliest places in Saska. OSP
attracts a variety of customers; o duty remen, locals,
arty types and a very happy little Jack Russell terrier.
Tasty, cheap home cooked food and a good range of
di cult to nd beers are on oer - - think 25 regional
brews from around Poland and Czech Republic. Regular
music/lm nights add to the appeal, and dont forget to
try on the collection of remens helmets and hats after a
few beers.Qul. Walecznych 74 (Saska Kpa), tel. (+48)
603 10 38 88. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
PAUEGBW
PANORAMA BAR & LOUNGE
Warsaws highest bar - and indeed Polands - sits on the
40th oor of the Marriott with prices to match the top
tier location and a new VIP room to boot. The views of
Warsaw glimmering below are outstanding, and theyre
no longer the only reason to visit. Gone is the JR Ew-
ing glitz and chrome, replaced instead by a tasteful in-
terior consisting of ock print wallpaper, violet seating
and clever lighting. Theres no better place for Sleepless
In Seattle seduction, or a corporate chinwag.QB-4, Al.
Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48) 22
630 74 34, www.panoramabar.pl. Open 18:00 - 02:00.
PAUXW
PARKING BAR
Eortlessly cool dive bar on the ground oor of the big-
gest hi-rise car park in town (the exterior of which is deco-
rated with, supposedly, the biggest mural in Europe). The
oor is the original car park oor marked with parking
spaces, crossings etc. Concrete pillars, oil drums and a
row of surprisingly comfortable swing seats made from
tyres make up the raw and spacious interior. A minimal
amount of coloured neon lighting adds the only touch
of warmth to this concrete jungle. No food or snacks,
slightly shell-shocked but nice sta and when we visited
POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS
A very Polish phenomenon that has swept the coun-
try in recent years is the 24-hour snack and shot bar.
Known locally as Zakski Przekski (literally Appetis-
ers & Snacks), or Polish Tapas as its been dubbed by
some, these trendy, formulaic budget bars cash in on
communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by
oering a small selection of simple, local appetisers
(typically served cold) for about 8z each, with drinks
typically xed at 4z. Familiar as the bar food of the lean
communist years, the menu reads like a list of correct
answers to the Jeopardy question Foods that follow
vodka and typically includes ledz (pickled herring in
oil), galaretka (pig trotters in jelly), kiebasa (sausage),
pierogi, pickles and tartare. Much like a milk bar with a
liquor license, Zakski Przekski bars oer budget food
and drink late night and are a great place to meet the
citys strangest characters. We list the best in Warsaw
below:
BAR WARSZAWA DE LUXE
Bar Warszawas popularity has been so explosive
theyve created a satellite location, Bar Warszawa
de Luxe, to handle the late-night overow. While
the original of this recipe at ul. Miodowa 2 - which
combines ridiculously cheap Polish food and booze
with nerdily dressed employees - only services cus-
tomers until 04:00, the Deluxe version is open 24
hours slinging 11z snacks like herring and 5z vodka
shots. Newly added live music can be seen Thursdays,
Fridays and Saturdays, while DJs take over the dance
oor on Fridays, Saturdays starting at 01:00 and Sun-
days at 22:00. If youre looking to really bring the
bling, you can call ahead and rent out their VIP room.
QB-2, Krakowskie Przedmiecie 79, tel. (+48)
510 40 08 64, www.barwarszawa.pl. Open 24hrs.
UEGB
PRZEKSKI ZAKSKI
Although Warsaws glitterati (note the small g) are
still in a period of mourning due to the closure of PZs
former cult venue in the Hotel Europejski building,
Mr. Gessler has been quick o the mark to relocate to
a new and rather odd establishment behind the cen-
trally located Rotunda bank building. Cheap vodka
shots, beer and PRL-style snack dishes like Steak tar-
tare, marinated herring and pigs feet in aspic rule the
day and now they have also added a range of sand-
wich options. The slightly sad tent in which it is based
was originally set up as a temporary bar for Euro 2012
and is as far away from the beauty of the 1950s glam
of their previous home as you can get. Nevertheless,
the original concept of everyone welcome and low
prices remains.QB-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 44 (entrance
from ul. Widok), tel. (+48) 666 92 72 25. Open 24hrs.
AUGSW
they were almost out of beer - although the two function-
ing taps were better than the usual gut-rot. Dont let any
of that put you o, it really is strangely brilliant!QB-4, ul.
Nowogrodzka 27 (entrance from ul. Parkingowa), tel.
(+48) 537 60 68 97, www.parkingbar.eu. Open 16:00 -
02:00, Fri 16:00 - 05:00, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun.
AUEGBW
PIW PAW
57 tap beers and a wall of refrigerators stued to bursting
with bottled beers (over 200 kinds of bottled beer eg. Pol-
ish, English, Russian, Belgian, Czech etc.) may sound like
youve died and gone to heaven, but somewhere along
the line they must have come up with a pretty odd busi-
ness plan. Besides bragging rights, we cant really see the
reason behind the massive selection, or the fact that the
venue only has around a dozen tables and, even more
scarily, only two toilets! In fairness, a large amount of trade
comes from the o-license side of things - even the tap
beers can be poured into containers and taken with you.
The meticulous queuing system at the bar also detracts
from it having a real pub atmosphere. Whatever the down-
sides, one cannot deny their passion for real beer.QB-4,
ul. urawia 32/34 (entrance from ul. Parkingowa),
tel. (+48) 534 73 45 00, www.piwpaw.pl. Open 24hrs.
AGW
PLAN B
Walk up a curving stairwell to enter Plan B, a venue where
the ceilings are high and the windows are low - so low
youll have to crouch for views of pl. Zbawiciela. Plan B has
seen minimal investment, with a design that must have set
the owner back the price of a packet of sausages; decor
is limited to little more than tatty posters, white tiles and
sofas with springs practically sticking out of them. But this
place has become astonishingly popular, especially with
students and other sorts who look like theyve just nished
band practice. Dont be surprised to nd the party spilling
outside, with gangs of drinkers chucking frisbees and shar-
ing sneaky pus on Moroccan cigarettes. Drunkenness is
rife and encouraged, and its only fair to note this place has
become a bit of a magnet for expat lads looking to tap up
impressionable Polish girls.QF-4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18, tel.
(+48) 503 11 61 54, www.planbe.pl. Open 11:00 - 03:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 03:00. ABXW
PO DRUGIEJ STRONIE LUSTRA
This unique Praga bar used to be much like the district it-
self: artsy, mysterious and a little bit junky. But after recently
moving locations, the bar has left behind the thick layers of
grime and history at their former Zbkowska location and
simply brought their strongest suit - an endless collection
of bottled and draught craft beers - along with them to ul.
Jagielloska. Sure, it feels a little weird to not stick to the
tables and to use a toilet that has an actual seat attached,
but were happy to exchange that charmfor a more grown
up (and cleaner!) headquarters.QH-1, ul. Jagielloska
22, tel. (+48) 534 73 40 99, www.po2stronielustra.com.
Open 10:00 - 24:00. AEXW
FREN
C
H
TREN
D
S
FROM
Nightlife Nightlife
SKWER - FILIA CENTRUM ARTYSTYCZNEGO
FABRYKA TRZCINY
An oshoot of Fabryka Trzciny, though a darn sight easier to
get to than its daddy bar/club. Situated inside a weird concrete
bungle this construction looks more like a car park than bar,
but dont let that stop you from further investigations. Con-
certs are frequent, and frequently excellent, as are the book
signings and vernissages. The location splat in the middle of
Krakowskie Przedmiecie means theres no shortage of look-
ers to train your eyes on.QB-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
60a, tel. (+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. Open
12:00 - 01:00. PAUEGBW
SOMEPLACE ELSE
Someplace Else is an expat legend, and the comfortable
open-plan space and industrial bar are a great setting for the
mix of live sports and music that can be found here almost
every night of the week. Still boasting one of the best bar
menus in the city - were fans of the Orient Express burger -
its easy to come for dinner and stay into the night to sample
from the long list of extravagant cocktails.QC-4, ul. Prusa 2
(Sheraton Warsaw Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.
warszawa.someplace-else.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEGW
THE PICTURES ART BAR CAFE
Modern, slick and central, The Pictures lives up to its name
with high-quality original art and photographs (no repro-
ductions here) on the walls. While particularly pleasant dur-
ing its day guise as a quiet cafe and bargain lunch spot, in
the evening this place is packed with hipsters drawn to the
smart service, crafty cocktail list, and simple but tasty and
aordable food. Some places deserve to be trendy, and this
is one of them.QB-4, ul. Chmielna 26, tel. (+48) 22 826 17
83, www.thepicturesbar.com. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Mon,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PAGBW
WARSAW TORTILLA FACTORY
This long-established Tex-Mex bar is one of the go-to
hangouts for ex-pats, thanks in part to the Irish owner Niall,
though discerning the various accents becomes harder
with every margarita and Corona that goes missing. Once
youre inside theres something for everyone: Sky Sports
on the TV, live music on weekends, and a decent pint of
Murphys or Guinness. The global crowd is easy to mix with
and accepting of outsiders, especially when they buy the
tequila shots. Added bonus: the separate smoking room
will save you a trip outside.QF-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48)
22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PAEBXW
WARSZAWA POWILE
Set in a former ticket hall this PRL-era concrete rotunda
proved one of the recent summer hits, and a bit of a gath-
ering ground for those enjoying post-Luztro x-me-ups.
Interiors here are all cheap and chipboard - tables included
- and while it looks tatty and torn its become a HQ of sorts
for hardcore clubbers hiding their horror behind reective
specs (which explains why the neighbours want it shut
WINE BARS
KAVA & VINO
Located in the heart of the city, Kava i Wino is far more
than a coee and wine bar. As well as being bean &
grape specialists, this high-ceilinged and massive-win-
dowed two-level venture has an excellent restaurant
with a seasonal menu that caters to every level of hun-
ger - from tapas and light snacks to lunches and a range
of mains. Our waiter was also the resident wine expert
and took great delight in showing us round the wine
room in near-perfect Queens English. Look skywards
to check out the algorithmic installation suspended
from the ceiling - its made from over 1200 wooden
pieces!QB-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 42, tel. (+48) 22 692
73 14, www.kavaivino.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PAGBW
NEW
SKANDAL BISTROBAR
The name may summon up visions of some unsavoury
Newcastle backstreet nightclub, so its a nice surprise to
nd that Skandal is in fact a rather trendy and relaxing
bistrobar and its di cult to expect anything less from
the crew that also runs the legendary Lenewiec on ul. Ul.
Poznaska. Smarter than its older brother, this funky split
level venue features a quality European menu, rustic dis-
plays of breads, pastries, mu ns and a small deli area sell-
ing mainly Mediterranean products. The basement room
has a ne wine bar with an on-hand sommelier dishing
out advice and recommendations.QF-3, ul. Sienkiewic-
za 4, tel. (+48) 22 350 04 44, www.skandalbistrobar.pl.
Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00,
Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (20-40z). TA6GBSW
WINIARNIA RESTAURACJA SUPERIORE
Yet another business venture which has decided to
make the move from the once-posh, but increasingly
sad-looking Miasteczko Wilanw estate and into the
centre of the city.The interior is slick rustic with the
shelves of wine bottles making up much of the dcor.
QF-4, ul. Pikna 28/34, tel. (+48) 506 40 40 59. Open
08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PAGW
WINOSFERA
This restaurant, cinema, piano bar and theatre is best con-
sidered a number of ventures under one roof united by the
humble grape. The raw brickwork and plaster grey interior
has all the modern charm of a re-tted factory space and
features the must have current trend of the open kitchen.
Head chef previously worked at Londons The Square(two
Michelin stars) and the legendary Amber Room in War-
saw. Expect culinary magic from the short and perfectly
constructed menu. The clean and perfect presentation of
dishes, such as rump of lamb with Madeira sauce, green
peas and topinambour, are rapidly turning the restaurant
into one of Warsaws top eateries.QA-3, ul. Chodna 31,
tel. (+48) 22 526 25 00, www.winosfera.pl. Open 12:00 -
23:00. Closed Sun. PAUGW
Simply the best food
- g-| .--:
We invite you for our special
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ul. Pikna 28/34, Warszawa
Tel. (+48) 506 40 40 59, www.superiorewinebar.pl
al. Jerozolimskie 42
00-024 Warszawa
tel: 22 692 73 14
www.kavaivino.pl
Caf & Wine Bar
"Wondering where to eat if you are alone
for the evening, meeting friends,with the
kids, on a date,conducting business
or hosting a private party?
KAVA & VINO
is your answer to all of the above."
down). How to nd it? Walk down the platform on Powile
Station, then hang a right down the stairs. An extra incen-
tive to visit: they just underwent a huge renovation and have
an expanded food menu (polish dishes & burgers!).QG-2,
ul. Kruczkowskiego 3b, tel. (+48) 22 474 40 84, www.
grupawarszawa.com. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00,
Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. PAUGW
W OPARACH ABSURDU
(IN THE MISTS OF ABSURDITY)
This bar could have a weird-o with fellow Praga bar Po Dru-
giej Stronie Lustra that would easily end in a draw. Both favour
twinkle lights, ea market knick-knacks and crap furniture,
though Absurdu has embraced colour, and bright murals, to
set it apart. Absurdu is spread over numerous rickety levels
and populated by local bohemians who crave live music
and strong drinks. A small menu of snacks and Polish staples
(yep, pierogis) are available to line your stomach.QH-1, ul.
Zbkowska 6, tel. (+48) 660 78 03 19, www.oparyabsurdu.
pl. Open 12:00 - 03:00. PAUEXW
JAZZ
METRO JAZZ BAR & BISTRO
Bathed in a soothing forest green glow this is a clas-
sic jazz bar where aesthetic shortcomings are brushed
over with a pot of atmosphere. Take to one of the
swivelly barside stools to knock back the barmans cre-
ations while taking in nightly jazz performances that
uctuate hugely in both style and volume.QF-3, ul.
Marszakowska 99a (Metropol Hotel), tel. (+48) 22
325 31 06, www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. Open 12:00 -
24:00. PAUEGW
NU JAZZ ZONE
A cavernous bar decorated sparingly with slick fur-
nishings and attractive sta. Good cocktails, served by
procient bartenders, and a strong fusion menu. The
occasional jazz performances can be excellent, and the
basement bar features comfortable seating and a big
screen for sports action. Neither loud nor lively, expect
the tables to be occupied by couples with single roses
in front of them.QC-4, ul. urawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22
621 89 89, www.jazzone.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAEGBW
PIKNA BISTRO
Pikna Bistro is everything you dont expect of a jazz
bar, with a smart set of customers inside an attractive
interior that recently enjoyed a modernising.The live
performances are consistently excellent, and better
still, never loud enough to completely sink conversa-
tion. Weve heard its converting to a sushi establish-
ment. Will the jazz stay? Were not sure, but be warned
that upheaval appears imminent.QG-4, ul. Pikna
20, tel. (+48) 22 627 41 51, www.jazzzone.pl. Open
11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
PAUEGW
Nightlife
ZNAJOMI ZNAJOMYCH
With two levels and a strange arrangement of rooms newcomer
Zna Zna can feel as if youre wandering through an M.C. Escher
drawing. Heres a primer: the rst oor features a large smoking
room and several adjacent rooms with seating, and the main
oor has a bar with DJ/dance oor - we saw a keytar being
played - and more labyrinthine seating areas. The pile of taxis
outside should tell you this is currently one of Warsaws favourite
places, with huddles of hipsters and interpretive dancers shar-
ing space and spilling drinks together. Theres even a respect-
able menu of pasta and pizza thats available into the weekend
wee hours (weekdays 24:00, Fri and Sat 01:00, Sun 24:00) to
soak up the booze, and a movie room for weekly Wednesday
night (20:00) screenings. Recommended.QC-4, ul. Wilcza 58a,
tel. (+48) 22 628 20 61, www.znajomiznajomych.waw.pl.
Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun
14:00 - 24:00. PAUBXW
CLUBS
Clubs in Warsaw range from sedate to sinful, and we cover
the full gamut here. A night spent clubbing means youll most
likely greet the dawn because, unlike the closing times you
might be used to, Polish clubs stay open until the sun comes
up. Expect a cover charge at most venues that can range from
5-20zl depending on events, and note that toilet paper is of-
ten a luxury that seems to universally run out around 22:00.
CLUB CAPITOL
Global recession you say? Nobody told the chaps at Capitol, a
jaw dropper of a venue whose opening conrms north War-
saws status as the o cial party part of the city. Filled with post-
socialist bling this venue is immense, and has seen the contents
of an oligarchs deposit box thrown into impressive interiors. A
pneumatic set of breasts should be enough to guarantee fe-
male entry, while boys should consider adding an arrogant lope
to their step and some designer horses to their clothes. And the
promoters havent been slouches either, having so far secured
the appearance of several club circuit legends. VIP room avail-
able as well for you jet-setters.QB-2, ul. Marszakowska 115,
tel. (+48) 608 08 95 04, www.clubcapitol.pl. Open Fri, Sat
only: 22:00 - 06:00. PAXW
CLUB MIRAGE
A totally unique experience, this is a club like no other in
Warsaw. Not because its anything particularly special, but
because it is set in the bowels of the monstrous Palace of
Culture. Descend the stairs through the entrance facing
the central railway station into a mass of writhing young
bodies getting down around the centrepiece fountain.
Once youre done there, retreat to the long bar and lounge
area to relax before heading back out into the surprisingly
unpretentious party crowd. The coat check looked after by
moustachioed men in their 50s gives a small hint of the
days when this place must have been frequented by the
great and not so good of communist Poland.QB-4, Pl.
Deflad 1 (entrance from ul. Emilii Plater), tel. (+48) 22
620 14 54, www.clubmirage.pl. Open 21:00 - 05:00, Wed,
Thu 21:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAEX
OPERA
A no-expense spared design masterpiece found in the
basement of the National Opera. Descend the curving
stairwell and all youll see is boys with attitude, dressed in
popped collared polo shirts, and a heart-stopping spread
of gazelle-like girls. If you were wondering where the good
lookers went, youve found the answer. Tread down wood
boards and through vaulted tunnels to reach the main are-
na, checking out the numerous side rooms on the way; this
place was formerly known as Bedroom, and thats because
of the alcoves found shooting o in every direction. Each
comes decorated with poufs, loungers and Persian drapes,
and serve as a great spot to enjoy illicit activities.QB-2, Pl.
Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22 828 70 75, www.operaclub.pl.
Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 06:00. PAEXW
PLATINIUM CLUB
Status is everything in Warsaw, and youll be awarded plenty
of it if you can wheedle past the gatekeepers at Platinium.
Door policy is stringent here, mercilessly culling the beasts
from the beautiful, thus ensuring everyone inside is either
rich or beautiful - sometimes both. Regarded as Warsaws n-
est club this place, set inside a historic former bank, has seen
plenty of money spent, with a design that includes marble
columns, chandeliers and glowing oors. This is champagne
living Warsaw-style, meaning hot sounds from the DJ decks
and a riotous party that goes way, way late.QB-2, ul. Fredry
6, tel. (+48) 694 41 34 39, www.platiniumclub.pl. Open
Thu, Fri, Sat only: 21:00 - 06:00. PAUEXW
ROOM 13 CLUB & LOUNGE
Warsaw has had the benet of a club explosion (clubsplo-
sion?) lately, and after visiting venue upon venue Room 13
is the one that stands out. The interior has a striking fallen
angel theme, with pillowy clouds painted across the ceil-
ings in the multiple rooms, and giant images of what Vic-
torias Secret has taught us an angel looks like. And if your
idea of heaven is two bars, a VIP room, a wide array of music
and lots of high heels, then consider this your HQ.QB-3, ul.
Mazowiecka 13, tel. (+48) 22 827 60 44, www.room13.
pl. Open 22:13 - 05:00. Closed Tue, Wed. PAGW
SHEESHA LOUNGE
Having added a massive dose of pizazz to the formerly
grubby little street behind the city centre Novotel, Sheesha
transforms from its peaceful daylight persona into one of
the most popular dance venues in town during its regu-
lar club nights. The ground oor level turns into a dance
oor and in-house DJs Alex and Saad knock out the mainly
Arabic, oriental and R&B fat beats to the sexy crowd. Belly
dancers and darbuka players make frequent appearances
to add to the multi-cultural shenanigans and the steamy
atmosphere. Dive into the vibe, watch from the mezzanine
oor or just chill in the basement bar area. The restaurant
remains open and pu ng on a hookah is highly encour-
aged. Strict door policy to keep the oiks, drunks and great
unwashed from spoiling the fun.QB-4, Al. Jerozolimskie
33, tel. (+48) 22 828 25 25, www.sheesha.pl. Open 10:00
- 03:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 03:00. PAEXW
Adult Entertainment Adult Entertainment
Those who visited Warsaw in the nineties and around the
turn of the century may have lingering memories of a
seriously mucky city. With an estimated 1,500 brothels in
operation the city established a reputation as a destination
for hairy-palmed perverts. Then along came the late Lech
Kaczynski as Mayor of Warsaw who became a one man
anti-sleaze machine driven by a zealous desire to restore
Warsaws lost innocence. While he never fully succeeded in
cleansing Warsaw of the brothels and the yers, Kaczynskis
crusade had a striking impact.
One of the results of this campaign is that Warsaw now of-
fers a collection of seemingly legitimate and, on the whole,
fairly presentable Gentlemens Clubs. Brothels still exist but
not in the huge numbers that they once did. Although
there is no specic red light district youll nd a small con-
centration of brothels around al. Jerozolimskie, ul. Wilcza
and ul. Nowogrodzka. Theyre simple enough to nd, just
look for the yers pinned to car windscreens or clogging up
the gutters. Dont expect English to be spoken, and dont
reckon on being greeted by the sirens pictured on the
aforementioned yers.
Now, in the old days wed use this space to fire some
recommendations your way. Legal factors now make
that a foolhardy path to pursue, so instead we advise
prospective punters to visit the Polish forums on www.
internationalsexguide.com, where the message boards
are alive with the latest dispatches from the frontline,
as well as pics and maps from the more committed
posters. For independent girls check websites such as
www.odloty.pl and www.sexatlas.pl, where youll find
a choice of literally hundreds upon hundreds of feisty
Polish girls promising a lively time. Your third choice is
to simply put your faith in a taxi driver. More often than
not this will involve being driven to the suburbs and to
whichever brothel is giving the cabbie a kickback. Prices
in these high end establishments will tend to start at
200z, though dont be tricked into buying champers for
the lady unless youre sure you can afford it. Similarly,
greenhorns should watch their wallet in strip clubs - bills
easily spiral, even more so when the drinks start being
poured.
Scumbag, y-by-night brothels still exist; STDs are a
fact of the trade, and dont think for one jiy youre be-
yond reproach. Do not assume either that the Barbie of
your choice is in on the game because she enjoys rolling
around with aging baldies. Poland has an appalling record
where human tra cking is concerned, and its safe to as-
sume a fair few ladies sta ng such venues have been co-
erced into their career. Finally, the venues listed here are
generally central and established but please be warned
that in recent months weve had a report of 8,000z being
spent willingly in one club listed here and another of 8,000
sterling being spent unwillingly in one which is not listed
here. In the second case half of the money was retrieved
from the bank because of payment irregularities but be
on your guard.
COYOTE BAR & NIGHT CLUB
On the new Street of Sin that is ul. Mazowiecka, Coyote
Club is an adult entertainment establishment of the girls in
their underwear which leaves little to the imagination will
dance for you variety. Drinks (the beers at least) are not as
outrageously priced as in other similar places and we have
to say that the girls we bumped into when we popped in
for a quick one were sirens.QB-3, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8,
tel. (+48) 505 46 90 56, www.coyotenightclub.pl. Open
20:00 - 04:00, Sun 20:00 - 03:00. PAUXW
LIBIDO GENTLEMANS CLUB
Newcomer Libido was designed with the customer in
mind: the large onyx bar doubles as a runway for strippers,
who sashay past gaping customers (watch your drinks!)
on their way to one of three mid-bar poles. Head to the
basement if you prefer your dances more intimate, where
closed-o booths let the dancers get up close and per-
sonal. Everything from the coat check to the bathrooms is
above board, a nice change for those who like their enter-
tainment without the usual seedy undertones.QB-3, ul.
Kredytowa 9, tel. (+48) 22 828 23 07, www.libidoklub.pl.
Open 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PAX
NEW ORLEANS GENTLEMENS CLUB
From Sunday to Wednesday youll nd the girls kitted out
in evening dress, with a higher-class of punter choosing
the girl of his dreams before sitting down to a good, intel-
ligent natter. Of course, this being a strip club, the removal
of the aforementioned evening dress is also an available
option. At weekends youll nd New Orleans reverting to
the more standard formula, with girls tottering around in
next to nothing, and oering the usual hip-grinding ac-
tion. Now added, a night restaurant with an erotic menu
featuring oysters, lobster and Argie steak. If they ow runs
low just saunter akwardly over to their in house ATM ma-
chine.QB-3, ul. Zgoda 11, tel. (+48) 22 826 48 31, www.
neworleans.pl. Open 21:00 - 04:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 21:00 -
05:00 Note that everyday the bar opens at 16:00, while
the club doesnt open until 21:00. PAXW
SOFIA
A legend in nineties and noughties Warsaw, there was a
time no self-respecting male could leave Warsaw without
having rst visited Soa. Those days may have gone and so
it seemed had Soa. But it appears not with the opening of
this place, three years after the original closed, just down
from Pl. Zbawiciela which boasts a modern spacious club
area and a host of minimally dressed women. In the wild
days of nineties Warsaw this was known in local parlance as
The Bulgarian Embassy. Itll be interesting to see if it lives up
to the reputation it built then.QF-4, ul. Polna 13, tel. (+48)
22 224 25 24, www.klubsofa.pl. Open 20:00 - 05:00.
Closed Sun. PAUX
citys doomed rebellion against the Nazis in 1944. Packed
with interactive displays, photographs, video footage and
miscellaneous exhibits this is guaranteed to leave a deep
mark on all visitors, and will go a long way in explaining
why Warsaw is far from the architectural pearl it once was.
Although the Nazis attened the Jewish Ghetto after a he-
roic uprising in 1943 there are still traces of Warsaws Jew-
ish past, including a remaining piece of the Ghetto wall
(E-3, ul. Sienna 55), a memorial where the loading ramp
to Treblinka once stood (E-1, Umschlagplatz) as well as
one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in Europe (D-1, ul.
Okopowa 49/51). Most recently, a trail marking the Ghetto
boundaries has been unveiled, its course interspersed 21
dual-language plaques at sights of specic interest.
The citys dening landmark
however has to be the fear-
some Palace of Culture and
Science (B-4, pl. Delad 1).
Looking like something youd
see in Ghostbusters the build-
ing towers at just over 231
metres in height - making it
the tallest and largest structure
in Poland. Commissioned by
Stalin as a gift from the Soviet
people the building was com-
pleted in 1955 and built using an estimated 40 million bricks.
The crowning glory of the structure is the viewing platform on
the 30th oor, a must see. And while its the most obvious, its
not the only example of the Socialist Realist style, and visitors
have plenty to marvel at from the everyman residential units
of Muranow and pl. Konsytucji, to the stern looking block that
once housed Communist HQ (C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 6).
Across the river the Praga suburb is undergoing a long
due revival, and its growing reputation as an artistic ha-
ven is evident in the cafes that have sprung up along the
pre-war Zbkowska street. But while the Praga area is
breathing once more, it still looks shabby. For a glimpse of
Warsaws Imperial beauty head instead to her palaces, in
particular azienki Park and Palace (G-4, ul. Agrykoli 1)
and Wilanw Palace - dubbed The Polish Versailles - (ul.
Stanisawa Kostki-Potockiego 10/16).
Sightseeing and Warsaw
dont usually go together,
and the reason, if not the
blame, for that falls on her
citizens. While some cities
may have been happy to
wait out Nazi occupation,
the Warsaw locals were
having none of that. The
ensuing uprising which
took place in 1944 would
become both the most
glorious and tragic episode
in the citys history. Doomed from the outset the Warsaw
Uprising enraged Hitler, and his retribution proved swift
and brutal. Warsaw was to be wiped from the face of the
map, and his cronies set about their orders with a zealous
fury. While Red Army tanks stood stoically stationed across
the river the Nazis set about blasting western Warsaw into
oblivion. Anything deemed of cultural importance was dy-
namited, and whole districts were set on re. By the time
liberation arrived, over 90% of the city lay in total ruin. I
have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere have I been
faced with such destruction, commented a visibly moved
Dwight Eisenhower on a later visit to the city. That the city
still stands at all is tribute enough to the indefatigable spirit
of the Polish capital.
Nowhere bore the brunt of the Nazi malice more than
the Old Town, and its here that most tourists will choose
to start their tour of Warsaw. Using paintings and photo-
graphs as an architectural blueprint the Old Town was
painstakingly rebuilt, with the reconstruction of the historic
centre only completed as late as 1962. The areas inclusion
on the UNESCO World Heritage List speaks volumes for the
eort involved, and nothing is more striking than the co-
lourful, wonky-looking burgher houses that frame the Old
Town Square (B-1/2, Rynek Starego Miasta).
The historic centre is also home to numerous churches,
including the striking St. Johns Cathedral (B-2, ul.
witojaska 8) whose details number gothic artworks as
well as the tombs of knights, regents and eminent citizens.
Marking the edge of the Old Town is the Royal Castle (B-2,
pl. Zamkowy 4), reconstructed from a pile of rubble at in-
credible cost between 1971 and 1984. The prescribed tour
will take you through the Kings apartments and chambers,
heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments.
Although youll nd plenty of photographic opportunities
in and amongst the tight cobbled alleyways save a few
shots for the viewing platform at the top of St. Annes
Church (B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 68), and dont
leave the area without rst exploring the lesser known de-
lights of the New Town.
There is far more to Warsaw than its Old Town however, and
one museum that demands to be visited is the Warsaw
Uprising Museum (D-3, ul. Grzybowska 79). Its here,
inside Polands best museum, that youll learn about the
Essential Warsaw
Warsaw Sightseeing
DISCOVER THE CAPITALS MANY TREASURES
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Sightseeing Sightseeing
behind a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved by
Leonardo Marconi.
Although this serves as the churchs key draw theres
several other features of note to tempt the visitor inside
this astonishing Baroque creation. The churchs history
originally dates from the 15th century when a small
wooden chapel stood on the site. Destroyed during the
Swedish Deluge of the 1650s, the church was rebuilt in
1682, with the cornerstone being ceremoniously laid by
Prince Jakub, son of King Jan III Sobieski. Designed by
the royal architect, Jakub Bellotti, it was completed in
1696 though over time would see numerous additions
to its shape. The most notable of these would come in
the following century when Jzef Fontana added two
Baroque crowns to the square-cut twin towers. His son
Jakub would later extensively refurbish the faade with
Jan Jerzy Plersch adding elaborate decorative touches
to the interior.
Throughout history the church has played its role in
Warsaws glories and calamities. It was here that the last
Polish King forged the Order of the Knights of St Stan-
islaus, and it was directly outside in 1861 that Russian
troops brutally suppressed a patriotic protest. It was
this bloodbath that lit the touchpaper for the January
Uprising of that year. Devastated during the Warsaw
Uprising in 1944 the church was painstakingly rebuilt at
the end of the war and is today a feast for the heart,
eyes and soul. The organ (built in Salzburg in 1925) is
the largest in Warsaw, and other points of note include
an urn with the remains of Nobel Prize winning author
Wadysaw Reymont, and tablets honouring various Pol-
ish icons including poet Juliusz Sowacki and WWII hero
Wadysaw Sikorski.QC-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
3, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl. Open
10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00 No visiting during
mass please.
JESUIT CHURCH (KOCI JEZUITW)
Built at the behest of King Zygmunt III Wazas confessor,
Piotr Skarga, this lovely little Renaissance church was
constructed between 1609 and 1626 for the citys Je-
suit community. Having had something of a varied and
colourful history to say the least, it suffered at the hands
of the Swedes in the latter half of the 17th century, who
looted it of its entire contents, and it even spent time
as a storehouse during the Partitions. Also known as
the Holy Mother of Grace Church after the citys patron
saint, the church was returned to the Jesuits at the end
of WWI only to be destroyed by the Germans in 1944.
Rebuilt between 1948 and 1957, the church has a few
remaining original interior parts - of particular interest
is the 17th-century picture of the Holy Mother herself.
The crypt, not open to visitors, contains the remains of
Prince Karol Ferdynand Waza and Maciej Kazimierz Sar-
biewski (1595-1640), the Jesuit priest, poet and court
preacher to King Wadysaw IV.QB-2, ul. witojaska
10, tel. (+48) 22 831 16 75, www.laskawa.pl. Open
09:00 - 15:30, Sun 14:00 - 15:30 No visiting during
mass please.
CHURCHES
Many Poles still see a direct connection between the
church and patriotism, explained much by the fact that
during centuries of oppression by neighbouring powers,
the church helped the nation of Poland to survive by giv-
ing Poles an identity. Although on the wane in post-com-
munist Poland, the church still plays an important role in
many peoples lives and churches reect the importance of
religion in the history of the Polish nation.
CHURCH OF THE ASSUMPTION OF THE VIRGIN
MARY AND OF ST. JOSEPH
Known more commonly as the Carmelite Church, this
structure features a stunning neoclassical facade origi-
nally created in the 18th century. It features twin belfries
and is most notable for being the site of Chopins rst
employment as he was invited to perform a recital on
the churchs organ. The church is set directly next to the
Presidential Palace and is unfortunately only open dur-
ing mass.QB-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 52/54,
tel. (+48) 22 556 61 00, www.wmsd.waw.pl/kosciol-
seminaryjny. Open by prior arrangement. No visiting
during mass please.
HOLY CROSS CHURCH (KOCI W. KRZYA)
No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw without rst visiting
the nal resting place of his heart. Added to the church
in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and then placed
GUIDED TOURS
EASTERN STATION WARSAW
Warsaws rst bike tour company gets it right with
a range of 3-hour routes that take visitors to places
that stray from the usual Old Town tourist traps and
promise great photo opportunities. The Wild Vistula
trip gets you up close to the river while the Cold War
HQ trip will have you climbing through a three story
underground Atomic Command Headquarters. Call in
advance to arrange a tour, or sign on for their daily
bike tour at 15:00; all tours leave from ul. Smolna 10
but this is subject to change so double check their
website beforehand. Bike tours go from May-Septem-
ber and walking tours depart daily at 11:00 from King
Sigismunds Column for a 2.5-hour wander through
the Old Town.Qtel. (+48) 513 60 55 18, www.
easternstation.eu. Bike tours 100z; walking tour
free (but be sure to tip).
NATIONAL STADIUM TOURS
A series of tours are available at the citys National
Stadium, which allow you to get behind the scenes
to see where the players prepare for international
matches. Tours take place every day and do not require
prior reservation or a minimum number of people to
take part. Tickets can be purchased from the booth
on the Al. Zieleniecka side of the stadium.QH-2, Al.
Ks. J. Poniatowskiego 1, tel. (+48) 22 295 90 00,
en.stadionnarodowy.org.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Tickets 10-30z (5-20z reduced)
depending on the tour. Note the Historic Tour is only
in Polish.
SEGWAY CITY TOURS
Consider it the next generation of Warsaw tours: visitors
are propelled 10km around town on Segway Personal
Transporters (helmets provided!) and shown a vast
swath of the city in around 3 hours. Tours depart daily
Pl. Zamkowy and cost 347zl per person and require
booking in advance.Qtel. (+48) 600 31 03 20, www.
segwaycitytours.pl.
WARSAW CITY-TOUR
Bus tours of Warsaw on a yellow double-decker bus.
The tours start from the bus stop on ul. Krlewska
and runs at 09:50, 11:50, 13:50 and from May at 15:50
as well. The route takes about 1.5 hours and covers all
the major sites in the city including Old Town, Jew-
ish Warsaw, WWII, Palace of Culture and Lazienki Park.
Qtel. (+48) 500 03 34 14, www.city-tour.com.pl.
Single journey ticket 40/34z. One day ticket 60/54
z. Two day ticket 80/72z. Family tickets (2 adults
and 2 children) 205zl/day, 274zl/2days; 130zl single
journey; (2 adults and 3 children 254zl/day, 340zl 2
days; 160zl single journey). One and two day tickets
ofer hop on/hop of option.
ALTERNATIVE TOURS
ADVENTURE WARSAW
Tours of Warsaw including the popular o the beaten
pathtour which delves into Socialism, communism and of
course vodka, all while cruising in a vintage Nysa 522. You
can even get inside the Palace of Culture and Science for
a look around. Group, private and walking tours also avail-
able from this crew of young, enthusiastic local guides,
who will even take you and your stag party around town
or host a pub crawl.Qul. Miska 25 (Praga Poudnie), tel.
(+48) 606 22 55 25, www.adventurewarsaw.com.
EAT WARSAW
Ever wondered what Polish cuisine has to oer beyond
pierogi? Let energetic tour guides Magda (food) and
Micha (vodka) lead you round some of their favourite
haunts and introduce you to how the locals guzzle and
gulp! Sample a variety of Polish dishes and vodkas
while learning how social and historical events shaped
the popularity of Polish cuisine. Walking between ven-
ues also allows the knowledgeable guides to point out
places of interest and help you to burn o a few calories
before the next sitting. They also oer cooking work-
shops if you want to polish your Polish cooking chops
(literally). .Qtel. (+48) 513 60 55 18, www.eatwarsaw.
com. Food tours (includes a full meal, plus dessert)
290z; Vodka tours 190z.
YeIIow DoubIe-Decker Bus
nvites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist
attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a
relaxing and comfortable way.
Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hours,
a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful
and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its
interesting districts, palaces and churches,
monuments and museums, parks and historical
cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.
Line approved by municipal
authorities.
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ST. BENNOS CHURCH (KOCI W. BENONA)
Bennos has a wacky history. King Sigismund III was a devo-
tee of St. Benno and invited peer priests from Bavaria to
Warsaw in the 17th century. Their main aim was to support
Germans living outside their home country. Ironically, in
1944, the chapel was blown to smithereens by you-know-
who. Rebuilt by the Poles in 1958, it now has an interesting
interior dating from 1977.QB-1, ul. Piesza 1, tel. (+48) 22
578 70 10, www.swbenon.redemptorysci.eu. Open dur-
ing mass and by prior arrangement.
ST. CASIMIRS CHURCH
(KOCI BENEDYKTYNEK - SAKRAMENTEK)
Founded by Mary Sobieski, wife of King Jan III Sobieski,
to commemorate her husbands victory over the Turkish
army at the Gates of Vienna. The baroque-style church was
designed by Tylman van Gameren and was completed in
1692. In 1944 it served as a Polish eld hospital, and re-
ceived a direct hit from a German bomb, killing more than
1,000 civilians, priests, nuns and soldiers who were inside.
Today it has been fully restored and has a charred wooden
cross as tribute to those who died. Please note that the
church specially requests solemnity and quiet while visit-
ing.QB-1, Rynek Nowego Miasta 2, tel. (+48) 22 831 49
62, www.sakramentki.opoka.org.pl. Open by prior ar-
rangement.
ST. FRANCIS SERAPH CHURCH (KOCI STYG-
MATW W. FRANCISZKA SERAFICKIEGO)
Completed in 1733 this baroque masterpiece holds the re-
mains of St Vitalis; see the glass co n for yourself by visiting
the chapel to your left. Many of the religious relics found
scattered around were donated by Pope Benedict XIV in
1754, and this church is also entered in the history books as
holding the rst free mass in Warsaw following the ight of
the Nazis. Currently the left nave is obscured due to reno-
vations, but the rest of the church is open.QB-1, ul. Za-
kroczymska 1, tel. (+48) 22 831 20 31, www.warszawa.
franciszkanie.pl. Open 06:00 - 20:00. No visiting during
mass please.
ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST CATHEDRAL (BAZYLIKA
ARCHIKATEDRALNA W. JANA CHRZCICIELA)
Originally built in the 14th century, St. Johns is steeped in
history. The last king of Poland, Stanisaw August Ponia-
towski, was crowned and eventually buried here, and in
1791 he also declared the Constitution of May 3 inside the
building. The crypt holds the bodies of Henryk Sienkiewicz
(writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Polands rst president) and
various Mazovian knights, but its currently o-limits due to
renovations. Other interesting details to look for include the
covered walkway that links the Cathedral with the Royal
Castle. It was added in 1620 as a security measure following
a failed assassination attempt on King Sigismund III. As with
most major landmarks, it was the scene of heavy ghting
during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising and was subsequently
left in a heap of ruins before being rebuilt in pseudo-gothic
style. On the external wall by the main entrance are frag-
ments of a Goliath - a remote-controlled tank used by the
German army. A 17th century bell made by artisan Daniel
Tym (who also made the statue of King Sigismund III atop
the famed column) can now be found in the centre of ul.
Kanonia (B-2). The bell itself never rang at the cathedral, but
it has developed its own legend: touch the top of the bell
and walk its circumference and your wish will come true.
QB-2, ul. wietojaska 8, tel. (+48) 22 831 02 89, www.
katedra.mkw.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 15:00 - 17:30.
No visiting during mass please.
ST. MARYS CHURCH
(KOCI NAWIEDZENIA NMP)
Scan the horizon of the New Town and chances are youll
nd your eyes settling on the Gothic shape of the Church
of the Visitation of St Mary. Built in the 15th century on the
whim of a Mazovian princess this brick beauty allegedly
stands on the site of an ancient pagan place of worship.
Extensively remodelled over the centuries it was rebuilt
true to its original form after WWII.QB-1, ul. Przyrynek 2,
tel. (+48) 22 831 22 53, www.przyrynek.pl. Open half an
hour before and during mass only and by prior arrange-
ment.
MONUMENTS
ADAM MICKIEWICZ MONUMENT
Patriot, poet and the man who inspired Romanticism in
Poland, Mickiewicz stands out as Polands greatest literary
gure - as well as a gure of hope during a bleak age of Rus-
sian oppression. His involvement in politics saw him exiled
east in 1824 by the ruling Russians, before nally heading
to western Europe in 1829. A bid to return to his homeland
in 1830 was thwarted at the border, and he never saw his
native Poland again.
Much mystery surrounds his life; his role as a national
cultural icon meaning that much of the seamier side of
his life has been covered up, including his involvement in
strange cults and alleged womanising. To this day, even his
birthplace remains a hot source of argument. Some say
Nowogrdek (Lithuania), others say the nearby Zaolsie. A
champion of freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak
in Turkey, 1855, while recruiting a Polish legion to ght the
Russians in the Crimea. Originally buried in Paris, Mickie-
wiczs body now lies in Wawel Cathedral, Krakw.
His dening masterpiece, Pan Tadeusz, is a beautifully writ-
ten epic portraying Polish society in the 19th century. His
statue dominates ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie, and traces
of bullet holes dating from WWII are still visible on the
monument.QB-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 5.
CHARLES DE GAULLE MONUMENT
Charles de Gaulle is the subject of one of Warsaws
newer monuments. Striding away from what was once
the Commie party HQ, the monument is a gift from the
French government and can be found on (C-4) Rondo
de Gaullea. A resident of Warsaw in the 1920s, de Gaulle
is a bit of a hero in these parts for the role he played in
The Battle of Warsaw in 1920. With Europe in turmoil fol-
lowing the aftermath of WWI the Red Army launched a
WARSAW STREET MURALS
Poland has long embraced the fact that large scale art-
work and design motifs can be a fascinating and crea-
tive option for advertising or, more recently, as an outlet
for the artistic visions of local and international street
and mural artists. During the communist era huge ad-
vertisements would be painted onto the gable ends of
buildings and factories. With the current fashion for all
things retro and the undeniable coolness of Polish de-
sign from the 1960s - 80s the remaining wall paintings
are once again being seen as something to cherish. A
ne example, advertising the Toto lottery, can be seen
on a vast wall along ul. Widok (B-4) in the city centre;
its current shabby state only adds to its sense of his-
tory and charm. One of our favourites adorns the end
wall of a tenement block along ul. Wolska (D-2), a crazy
typographical mishmash of overlayed texts headed by
the PRL slogan of Mleko = Zdrowie (Milk = Health).
This building can be spotted as you tootle along ul.
Towarowa on the tram in the direction of the must-see
Warsaw Uprising Museum.
Launched in 2010, the Bliej Konsumenta (Closer to the
Customer) organisation aims to document and protect
the small number of original communist era advertising
murals which are still with us. Their map, highlighting
worthy walls, is available as a free download from the
Modern Art Museum website (www.artmuseum.pl).
Today, street art around the city is going through a
tidal wave of popularity and notoriety. This summers
fth edition of the Street Art Doping Festival invited
three of Europes top street artists, Dome (Germany),
Sam3 (Spain) and Phlegm (UK), to leave their large
scale marks around town. Their murals can be seen at
ul. Racawicka 17 (F-6), ul. Rakowiecka 2c (F/G-5) and
ul. Miska 12 (in Praga Poudnie) respectively. Home-
grown work can also be seen all around the city, with
the more down at heel districts of Praga (G/H-1) and
Wola being particularly well represented.
To help you nd some of the city-centre highlights
of Warsaws growing street art scene, weve marked
known murals with a icon on the city maps in the
back of this guide. Check it out!
POLISH EASTER
Palm Sunday (13/04/2014) marks the o cial begin-
ning of Polands Easter festivities perhaps the coun-
trys most sacred holiday. Leading up to the season you
may see decorative handmade palms for sale around
town. These traditional decorations are made from a
variety of dried owers and plants, and are taken to
church on Palm Sunday to be blessed, after which they
decorate peoples homes throughout the holiday.
As a deeply Catholic country, Poland takes its Easter
(Wielkanoc) celebrations seriously; throughout the
period visitors can expect bars and restaurants to be
either empty or closed beginning on Good Friday
(18/04/2014). On Easter Saturday (19/04/2014)
Poles, typically children, bring brightly decorated bas-
kets of food to church to have these blessed as well.
Polish Easter baskets traditionally contain a piece of
sausage, bread, egg, poppy-seed cake (mazurek), some
salt, horseradish and a ram made out of dough - each of
which has a symbolic meaning, of course. Also included
are pisanki - painted boiled eggs which have been pre-
pared in the lead-up to Easter by the whole family.
Rezurekcja (Resurrection), a traditional mass with proces-
sion, is held Saturday night or Easter morning depending
on parish tradition. On Easter Sunday (20/04/2014),
families gather together to celebrate with Easter break-
fast from their Easter baskets, accompanied by urek
(Polish rye soup) and other traditional foods. Each person
places a small piece of the blessed food on their plate
before exchanging wishes with other members of the
family. The symbolic dough ram is placed on the table to
symbolise the resurrection of Christ.
Things thankfully take on a more lighthearted air on
Easter Monday (21/04/2014). Known as mingus
Dyngus, this day is dominated by public water ghts
and everyone is given carte blanche to drench any-
one they see with water. As a foreigner, you are not
exempt from this practice, so move fast if you see
someone armed with a water pistol or a bucket and a
grin. Although its never pleasant to have a jug of water
thrown over your head, this is an improvement from
the past when young people were beaten with Palm
Sunday sticks. Apparently either will bring you luck.
THE EASTERN WALL
Reeling from near total annihilation the post-war years
saw Warsaw emerge as Europes biggest brickyard as it
struggled to rebuild itself from the ashes. Initially the
buzzword for architects in the region was Socialist Re-
alism, a severe style following strict guidelines from a
Soviet masterplan. The death of Stalin in 1953 changed
all that and architects looked to the west for inspiration,
a disastrous move that saw all manner of brutalist mon-
strosities rise from the ruins. The competition in Warsaw
is erce, but probably nastiest of the lot is the develop-
ment dubbed the Eastern Wall (ciana Wschodnia), a
collection of buildings and tower block running from
Rondo Dmowskiego (B-4) to ul. witokrzyska (B-3).
Architect Zbigniew Karpiski - the guy who also de-
signed the bunker-like US Embassy on ul. Pikna - won
the competition to rebuild the area and set about re-
modelling the centre of Warsaw with the zealous glee
of a complete nutter. Construction kicked o in 1962
and was completed seven years later, the result being
four department stores, the Rotunda bank building, a
blockish o ce building behind it, a cinema, and even
a nightclub. Towering over it all were three residential
blocks situated on witokrzyska (85 metres), Zgoda
(87 metres) and Chmielna (81 metres). Originally hailed
a work of genius the Eastern Wall soon became a bit of
a rusty elephant, crippled and blackened with age and
neglect. The collapse of communism breathed new
life into the complex - Polands rst McDonalds was
opened at the witokrzyska end of the complex, while
the o ce block behind the Rotunda temporarily held
the title for having the largest billboard in the world.
More recently steps have been taken to polish up the
area with shining glass frontages added to the depart-
ment stores, and granite oored pedestrian walkways
and modern tubular lighting added to the section
behind the Jerozolimskie end. But snoop behind the
area around McDs and youll nd a glorious blast to the
past, with smashed pavements, useless bare-lit super-
markets and a couple of cafes selling ersatz coee to
hunched old men smoking cigarettes by the stful.
huge military strike, aimed at enslaving the rest of Europe.
The Bolsheviks expected an easy march to Paris, but the
Poles has other ideas. With the Red Army just 23km from
Warsaw Marshal Pisudski launched a deft action to split
the Bolshevik forces in two and encircle them. The battle
raged from August 13-August 25, 1920, with the Poles
claiming a historic victory in what Woodrow Wilson went
on to describe as the seventh most important battle in
history. The Bolshevik forces were decimated, and Eu-
rope saved. De Gaulle fought with distinction and was
awarded the highest military honour in the country, the
Virtuti Militari.QC-4, Rondo de Gaullea.
CROSS-MONUMENT
Nine metres high and made of
white granite June 6, 2009 saw
the unveiling of giant cross on
pl. Pisudskiego. It was here that
Pope John Paul II returned to
Warsaw for the rst time after
being made pope, and it was
also on this spot a candlelit vigil
was held when news rst broke
of his death. The inscription
is taken from his sermon and reads: Let your spirit come
down and renew the face of earth, this earth. Unveiled by
Warsaw Mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz Waltz and Archbishop
Kazimierz Nycz, the towering monument was designed by
Jerzy Mierzwiaka, Marek Kuciski and Natalia Wilczak.QB-
3, Pl. Pisudskiego.
JAN KILISKI MONUMENT
A huge monument honouring Jan Kiliski, a Warsaw cob-
bler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kociuszko
Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliski and his
troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassadors
Warsaw residence; an action that ultimately led to his im-
prisonment in St. Petersburg. Said to embody the Polish
virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected
in 1936 and originally located on pl. Krasiskich. In reprisal
for an attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops
hid Kiliski inside the vaults of the National Museum.
Within days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with
the gra ti People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan Kiliski. After
the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful place, be-
fore being nally relocated to ul. Podwale in 1959.QB-2,
ul. Podwale.
JZEF PISUDSKI MONUMENT
Casting a steely gaze over the
square named in his honour is
a gloomy looking Field Marshal
Pisudski, a man many Poles
hold responsible for winning
the country its independence
in 1918. Regarded as a political
and military hero this man did
more than most to free Poland
from the shackles of Russian
control; his early years saw him imprisoned in Siberia after
being wrongfully convicted of plotting to assassinate the
Tsar, though his nest hour undoubtedly came in 1920
when he beat o the Bolshevik hordes at the gates of War-
saw, inadvertently saving a battered post-war Europe from
being ooded by the rampant Soviets. Unveiled in 1995
this particular monument is the work of Tadeusz odziany,
and Pisudski fans can view another such monument to the
man on ul. Belwederska.QF-2, Pl. Pisudskiego.
KING SIGISMUNDS COLUMN
Built in honour of the man who made Warsaw the capital
of Poland, the column was erected back in 1664 and stands
twenty two metres high. During the war the column col-
lapsed under bombardment and the original now lies close
to the Royal Castle (and is considered lucky to touch). The
gure of Sigismund survived and the new column was
proudly re-erected in 1949.QB-2, Pl. Zamkowy.
NICOLAUS COPERNICUS MONUMENT
The founder of modern astronomy. A sheltered academic,
he made his observations a century before the invention of
the telescope and without help or guidance. His book De
Revolutionibus (1543) posited that the earth rotated on its
axis once a day, travelled around the sun once a year, and
that mans place in the cosmos was peripheral. This may
seem obvious today, but it was an utterly radical idea at
the time.
Although astronomers who propagated his ideas were
burnt at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revo-
lutionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there
was no turning back progress. The modern cosmological
view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is
this mans legacy.
The statue itself was unveile in 1830 and has seen its fair
share of adventure. During WWII the Nazis placed a bronze
plaque insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp
- a German. In 1942, a boy scout called Alek Dawidowski
ducked the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with
fury, the Nazis removed the statue, hid it in Silesia and dy-
namited a few other surrounding monuments for good
measure. The statue was recovered in the years following
the war, while Dawidowski has entered Polish folklore as a
result of his bravery. The plaque at the centre of the storm is
currently held in Warsaws History Museum.QC-3, ul. Kra-
kowskie Przedmiecie.
NIKE
Just before hitting the WZ tunnel that rumbles below
the old town visitors cant fail but see a giant cast iron
statue of Nike: as in the Greek Goddess of Victory, not the
shoe. Standing with sword raised aloft this noble struc-
ture is actually o cially named Monument to the Heroes
of Warsaw 1939-1945, and remembers the thousands of
locals who fought against - and died under - Nazi rule.
The statue made its debut in 1964, originally standing on
pl. Teatralny. This was before there was any o cial me-
morial to the Warsaw Uprising, and as such Nike became
the favoured assembly point for Polish veterans, as well as
student agitators in later years. In 1997 Pl. Teatralny un-
derwent a well-deserved facelift and the fearsome Nike
found herself forklifted over to her current spot where she
stands with a watchful eye over the cars and buses that
gasp to-and-fro.QB-2, near Pl. Zamkowy (Trasa W-Z
scarp).
RONALD REAGAN MONUMENT
A large bronze statue of U.S. President Ronald Reagan now
calls Warsaw home after an unveiling in November 2011
that included former Polish President and Solidarity leader
Lech Wasa. The large 3.5-metre monument portrays Rea-
gan, who was the 40th president of the United States and
held o ce from 1981-1989, when he stood at a podium
at Berlins Brandenburg gate and declared, Mr. Gorbachev,
tear down this wall, back in 1987.
So why are the Poles using their valuable bronze on the
Gipper? In Poland Reagan is considered one of the 20th
centurys most important leaders thanks to his long-stand-
ing opposition to communism. During Reagans Christmas
address in 1981 he cited the persecution of the Solidarity
trade union by the countrys communist government as
evidence that the regime was waging war against its own
people. That holiday season candles were put in the win-
dows of the White House to show Reagans support of the
Solidarity movement and the Polish people.
Reagans continued policy of vigorously promoting democ-
racy and condemning communism is credited as hasten-
ing the dissolution of the Soviet Union, and along with
Pope John Paul II he was a strong supporter of Wasas
campaign for presidency in 1990. During the unveiling
ceremony Wasa noted his belief that without Reagan Po-
land wouldnt be a free nation today. The statue, which was
created by Polish sculptor Wadysaw Dudek, can be found
across the street from the United States embassy.QC-4, Al.
Ujazdowskie.
Sightseeing
FOTOPLASTIKON
Now, you may hear some people claiming this to be
the only fotoplastikon in Europe. This is clearly a lie -
theres one across the road in the Palace of Culture,
for a start. Nonetheless, dont let that stop your visit.
Hidden away in a darkened pre-war tenement a visit
here really is a trip back in time. So what the devil is a
fotoplastikon? Invented in Germany in the second half
of the 19th century theyre basically a 3D peep show
(no, not the saucy kind) set inside a great big drum-
like contraption. Presenting vivid images from across
the world these groovy machines became an absolute
sensation and at any onetime there were an estimated
250 in Europe. Warsaw apparently got its rst in 1901,
and the one on show here is thought to be from 1905.
Although fotoplastikons were made obsolete by im-
proved camera and lm technology this one continued
to open for the public, and during the war apparently
served as a contact point for the Polish underground.
Its role as a meeting point for academics and intellec-
tuals continued well into communism, and today this
family run operation allows visitors to glimpse Warsaw
and other global landmarks in their pre-war glory. The
show lasts 20 minutes and comes highly recommend-
ed.QF-3, Al. Jerozolimskie 51, tel. (+48) 22 629 60
78, www.fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl. Open 10:00 -
18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4/2z. Sun free. N
White House in 1910 the promise was made to erect a copy
in Poland if ever the country regained its independence.
The man himself was educated in Warsaw and Paris during
which time Poland was partitioned for the rst time in 1772.
Kociuszko found himself attracted to the American ght for
independence and arrived in Philadelphia aged 30. Upon
arrival he read the Declaration of Independence and found
himself so inspired and in concert with its ideology that he
determined to meet the man who wrote it, Thomas Jeer-
son. The two men later began a lifelong friendship which be-
came so binding that Kociuszko made Jeerson the execu-
tor of his will. Jeerson was to call Kociuszko the purest son
of liberty among you all that I have ever known, and of that
liberty which is to go to all, not to the few or the rich alone.
It was as a colonel in the engineering corps that Kociuszko
distinguished himself and it was his choice of Bemis Heights
as the place to engage the British that was to become the
decisive turning point of the northern campaign - the Battle
of Saratoga in October 1777. The victory at Saratoga won the
northern campaign and the alliance of the French as Louis XVI
o cially recognised America as an independent country.
Kociuszko was then charged with fortifying West Point,
New York, where he built an impenetrable fortress that would
later become Americas premier military academy. Rewarded
with citizenship, the rank of Brigadier General and land near
Columbus, Ohio, at the end of hostilities, Kociuszko found
himself instead drawn back to Poland whose aggressive
neighbours continued to threaten its sovereignty.
Having rst freed the serfs on his own estate back in Poland,
Kociuszko once again returned to the military. On May 3,
1791 the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth created the
rst constitution in modern Europe (second in the world
after America), which enacted widespread reforms and
four days later the Russian army crossed the border trig-
gering the Polish-Russian War of 1792. Kociuszko again
distinguished himself in battle and became regarded as
Polands leading military strategist having never been de-
feated. However the neighbouring powers further reduced
the power and size of Poland through the Second Partition
of Poland (January 21, 1793) leaving Kociuszko to resolve
that the Poles were going to have to drive their oppressors
out and to regain their independence.
What followed came to be known as the Kociuszko Up-
rising. Kociuszko, using his experience of the American
war of Independence, led his ill-equipped peasant army to
victory over the Russian army at Racawice. The ultimate
defeat of Poland resulted in the Third Partition of Poland
(October 24th, 1795) and Poland disappeared from the
map of Europe for the next 123 years. Read more about the
man in our feature online.QA/B-3, Pl. Za elazn Bram.
TOMB OF THE UNKNOWN SOLDIER
The only surviving part of the destroyed Saxon Palace. The
palace was constructed during the 17th century though
the tomb was not added to the complex until 1925. Ee-
rily, the tomb was the only part of the structure to survive
being dynamited by the Nazis. The ashes of unknown
soldiers from WWII have been ttingly added.QB-3, Pl.
Pisudskiego.
SYRENA
The mermaid is the symbol of Warsaw, and as such youll
nd her likeness on everything from buses to beer cans. The
legend dates to the time of Prince Kazimierz, who allegedly
got lost while on a hunting expedition in the area that is now
Warsaw. Behold, a mermaid transpired from the marshland,
and guided the hapless prince to safety by ring burning ar-
rows. Firmly established as an icon of Warsaw youll nd three
mermaid statues in Warsaw, specically on (C-1), Old Town
Square, (D-2), witokrzyski Bridge and on (C-2/3), ul. Karowa.
The original mermaid - or syrena in local parlance - stands in
the Historical Museum, and was crafted from bronze by the
expert hand of Ludwika Nitschowa. Modelling for her was ac-
tress Krystyna Krahelska, who was mortally injured on the rst
day of the Uprising while working as a eld nurse.
TADEUSZ KOCIUSZKO MONUMENT
History produces few men like Tadeusz Kociuszko (1746-
1817). Kociuszkos highest ideal was freedom, and he used
his own to try and secure it for all those less fortunate. In
one country - Poland - he failed and is remembered as the
greatest hero who ever walked the land. In another country
- America - he succeeded, and yet has been almost com-
pletely forgotten. A monument to the man was unveiled in
November 2010 in the presence of the Polish President and
the US Ambassador. The monument is an exact copy of one
in Washington by sculptor Antoni Popiel given to Americans
on behalf of the Polish nation. At its unveiling outside of the
solute must for museum diehards - just try to nd any other
English-speaker whos been here (though recently the mu-
seum has added some English brochures to help non-Polish
visitors). As the title suggests, everything here is focused on
Polish people/peasants, with the oldest exhibit being a 17th
century manuscript approved by King Jan III Sobieski grant-
ing serfs a tax reduction. Most of these scrolls, documents
and papers will be lost on the foreign visitor; making more
sense are the printed materials, which include election post-
ers from the interwar years, as well as decrees, ration cards
and purchase vouchers supplied by the occupying Nazis
during WWII. Times under communism are particularly well
represented, and visitors will see a number of stirring Soviet
chic posters encouraging hard work and high production.
Very Socialist Paradise indeed.
Patriotism plays a large part in understanding this oddity,
and art fans will be pleased to nd a series of paintings de-
picting peasants in full battle, including of course Tadeusz
Kociuszko doing his bit against the Russkies. Stamps, ags,
medals and caricatures, theyre all here, as well as a great lit-
tle war-themed section which presents bayonets, armbands
worn by peasant ghters during WWII, rst aid kits and a
typewriter and printing contraption used in the creation of
subversive press.QAl. Wilanowska 204 (Mokotw), tel.
(+48) 22 843 38 76, www.mhprl.pl. Open 08:30 - 15:30.
Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 2/1z. Thu free. N
GALLERY OF PAINTINGS, SCULPTURE AND THE
DECORATIVE ARTS (GALERIA MALARSTWA,
RZEBY I SZTUKI ZDOBNICZEJ)
The east wing of the Royal Castles main oor is now home
to a permanent exhibition of various works of art that had
formerly been spread throughout the property, including
two works by Rembrandt: The Girl in a Picture Frame and
The Scholar at the Lectern. Both paintings were part of a ma-
jor donation of 37 works of art given by Countess Karolina
Lanckoroska, a Polish resistance ghter and concentration
camp survivor who, upon Polands return to independence
in 1989, bequeathed her familys art collection to the na-
tion. The Castle has done an impressive job of staging the
artworks, with muted walls and focused lighting keeping
all the attention on the various portraits of 16th and 17th
century royalty like Marie Antoinette and still life paintings
of ower-lled bounties. Theres also a room devoted to
porcelain, tapestries and glassware from the era. The Castles
free admission on Sundays have seen the new gallery over-
run with visitors, so serious art lovers will want to pay for the
chance to wander at a less harried pace. Dont miss their
new temporary exhibition The Gold of Columbia.QB-2, Pl.
Zamkowy 4 (Royal Castle), tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.
zamek-krolewski.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admis-
sion 20/15z, family ticket 10z per person. Sun free. U
HISTORICAL MUSEUM OF WARSAW
(MUZEUM HISTORYCZNE MIASTA WARSZAWY)
One of our favourite museums, The Historical Museum of War-
saw has been o ine for several issues now but is easing into a
return after months of renovations, which will continue to take
place over the next several years. What can you see so far? Not
very much as the main oor is closed for overhaul. One aspect
not to be missed, however, is the lm Warsaw Will Remember
in the museums cinema. The lm addresses the war years from
1939-1945 and the rebuilding of the city. The lm is shown
on the hour Tue-Thu from 10:00-17:00; Fri-Sun 10:00-19:00
and lasts 20 minutes (in French, Italian German and Spanish
by request). Film tickets are 10/7z (and the entrance for the
lm is from Rynek Starego Miasta 42) while general museum
admission is 10/7zl. Thursday, however, are free.QB-1, Rynek
Starego Miasta 28-42, tel. (+48) 22 635 16 25, www.mhw.pl.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. YU
KRLIKARNIA
Krlikarnia, which translates as the rabbit house, is a lavish
palace in Mokotw named for its role as King Augustus II the
Strongs rabbit warren for hunting. Built between 1782 and
1786, the palace has been home to a number of interesting
residents including insurrection leader Tadeusz Kociuszko
and Charles Thomatis, a man many believe acted as a pimp
for King Stanisaw August Poniatowski. Like much of Warsaw,
the palace was obliterated during the war but meticulously
rebuilt in 1964 and now operates as an art museum that fea-
tures the works of famed Polish sculptor and Auschwitz sur-
vivor Xawery Dunikowski on the verdant park grounds (you
can keep an eye out for The Soul Escaping the Body, a sculp-
ture that is replicated on Dunikowskis tombstone). Visitors
TOURIST INFORMATION
TOURIST INFORMATION
(STOECZNE BIURO TURYSTYKI)
This central tourist information o ce is inside the Pal-
ace of Culture (if you exit central station on the Zote
Tarasy shopping complex side and cross over the road
youll see it). Inside you can choose from a series of
guides as well as buy some souvenir books and gifts.
QB-4, Palace of Culture, Pl. Deflad 1 (entrance
from ul. Emilii Plater), tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.
warsawtour.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00. From May open
08:00 - 20:00.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Located in the arrivals hall of the new part of the air-
port, the point is small but has all the necessary guides
and maps you might need including In Your Pockets.
Qul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 194 31,
www.warsawtour.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00. From May
open 08:00 - 20:00.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Find this point on the Market Square of Old Town
where you can pick up maps, guides, book tours and
buy gifts and souvenirs.QB-2, Rynek Starego Miasta
19/21/21a, tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.warsawtour.pl.
Open 09:00 - 18:00. From May open 09:00 - 20:00.
can end their museum visit with a meal courtesy of the caf
which prepares picnics and oers blankets for outdoor dining,
a must considering its location on an escarpment overlook-
ing the Vistula. Visiting hours are 6 am until dusk.QG-7, ul.
Puawska 113a, tel. (+48) 22 843 15 86, www.krolikarnia.
mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/4z, Thu free. N
MUSEUM OF INDEPENDENCE
(MUZEUM NIEPODLEGOCI)
Rather ironically, the museum that charts Polands struggle
for freedom was home to the Lenin Museum during com-
munist rule. Celebrating Polish patriotism, the museum
covers all the key dates of Polish history, including the
1794 Kociuszko Uprising, the 19th century insurrections,
Pisudskis return to Poland, WWII and the rise of Solidarity
(though this last exhibit is currently unavailable). Among
the 48,000 exhibits are objects recovered from WWII con-
centration camps, and some wonderful displays of Socialist
Realist artwork. Two of the current exhibitions on display
are: With the White Eagle for centuries the emblem and
coat of arms of the Polish State over the course of history
and Polonia Restituta about independence and borders
1914-1921.QB-2, Al. Solidarnoci 62, tel. (+48) 22 826
90 91, www.muzeum-niepodleglosci.pl. Open 12:00 -
17:00. Closed Mon, Tue Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 8/5z. Thu free. N
MUSEUM OF JOHN PAUL II COLLECTION
(MUZEUM KOLEKCJI IM. JANA PAWA II)
This is exactly the kind of overlooked museum that houses
gems tourists will consider themselves lucky to stumble
upon. In 1986 Janina and Zbigniew Carroll-Porczynski gifted
the country with 400 paintings and sculptures acquired
through years of dabbling in Western European art. The
Carroll-Porczynskis themselves are an interesting duo - she
was sent to Sibera in 1940, then matriculated to Rhodesia
and England where she obtained several degrees while he
was part of the Home Army and sent to Pawiak Prison, Aus-
chwitz and Buchenwald before going to England and get-
ting a PhD. Their collection is now housed in the historical
Bank of Poland building and includes a unicorn sculpture by
Salvador Dali, a painting of Renoirs son Pierre, an idyllic farm
scene by Van Gogh, the head of John the Baptist by Rodin
the mind boggles at the list of noted artists housed here. The
Banks soaring rotunda is home to over 80 self-portraits, and
the rst oor houses works of a more religious nature. One
of the most stunning is Wojciech Gersons Baptism of Lithu-
ania, a massive painting that represents Lithuanias baptism
into Christianity. A lack of surly museum maids and a well-
marked route make the JPII museum even more enjoyable.
QA-2, Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. (+48) 22 620 27 25. Open 10:00
- 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4 z. YN
MUSEUM OF POLISH PEOPLES MOVEMENT
(MUZEUM HISTORII POLSKIEGO RUCHU
LUDOWEGO)
Set in a neo-Renaissance villa designed by Italian-born Mary
Lanci the Museum of the Polish Peoples Movement is an ab-
MUSEUMS
Warsaw now has an ever more impressive selection of
museums dotted around and even older ones are getting
facelifts to bring the visitor experience into the 21st cen-
tury. There are still instances of poor or no English language
explanations but these are becoming less common. With-
out doubt the big three places on your list should be the
Uprising Museum which charts the dening period in the
history of modern Warsaw; the Copernicus Science Centre
which is the citys most interactive and visitor friendly mu-
seum and the Chopin Museum which is both interesting
and Warsaws best example of a modern museum experi-
ence. Most museums listed present a cycle of temporary
exhibitions, details of which can be found in our culture
and events section.
ADAM MICKIEWICZ MUSEUM OF LITERATURE
(MUZEUM LITERATURY IM. ADAMA MICKIE-
WICZA)
Find out about the smart Alec who inspired Romanticism
in Poland. As well as aving a number of manuscripts and
historical artefacts connected with Mickiewicz, the mu-
seum also has exhibits connected with other leading Pol-
ish writers. If Polish writers are your bag be sure to check
out the three other related sites that are part of the citys
Museum of Literature and celebrate historic authors:
the Wadysaw Broniewski Museum of Literature at ul. J.
Dbrowskiego 51 (F-6), the Andrzej Strug Museum of Lit-
erature at Al. Niepodlegoci 210/10a (F-4) and the Maria
Dbrowska Museum of Literature at ul. Polna 40/31 (F-4).
QB-1, Rynek Starego Miasta 20, tel. (+48) 22 831 76 91,
www.muzeumliteratury.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Wed,
Thu 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat and ev-
ery last Sun of the month. Admission 6/5z, Sun free for
permanent exhibit only. N
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
(MUZEUM ETNOGRAFICZNE)
Tragically overlooked by far too many visitors to Warsaw
(who cant see past World War II and communism) this is
a joy of a museum that showcases and highlights all thats
best about Polands cultural heritage. There are costumes,
handicrafts, furniture, Polish inventions, art, photographs;
most of it is beautifully presented in what is a superb build-
ing. There are also exhibitions of African and Australasian
(the latter closed until the end of the year) ethnographic art,
and the museum is one of the citys most active, putting on
all sorts of temporary exhibitions and organising hands-on
events and workshops. Directors of Warsaws other muse-
ums might want to come and take notes. Just brilliant, and
unquestionably essential. A major renovation was recently
completed and two permanent exhibits of interest can be
explored: Time to Celebrate Polish and European Folk Cul-
ture and Ordinary Extraordinary.QB-3, ul. Kredytowa 1,
tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.ethnomuseum.pl. Open
09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00 Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6z.
Sat free. YU
MUSEUM OF PRIEST JERZY POPIEUSZKO
(MUZEUM BOGOSAWIONEGO KS. JERZEGO
POPIEUSZKI)
Youd probably think a museum honouring a priest
doesnt sound like much fun, and indeed this place really
isnt. However, it is a very decent detour if you happen to
be in the oliborz area, and thats because Father Jerzy
was no ordinary priest. Popieuszko came to national at-
tention in the early1980s for his erce anti-communist
rhetoric, and with close ties to Radio Free Europe and
Solidarity it wasnt long till he ran afoul of the internal
security services. In 1984, with Poland in political chaos,
they decided to get rid of him altogether. A car accident
was set up for this purpose, though Popieuszko some-
how survived unscathed. Six days later he was abducted,
beaten and murdered, his corpse dumped in a reser-
voir. His funeral drew a crowd of 250,000 mourners and
made headlines the world over. Today the basement of
his former parish church has been turned into a museum
to remember not just his life, but the whole struggle for
post-war freedom. Newssheets printed by the under-
ground, banners from the Solidarity strikes and pictures
of the funeral are among the many items on display, as
are the clothes he was wearing when he was kidnapped.
Particularly poignant is a curved wall, its bricks inscribed
with the names of martyrs dealt with by security services
between 1981 and 1989.Qul. Kardynaa Stanisawa
Hozjusza 2 (oliborz), tel. (+48) 22 561 00 56, www.
popieluszko.net.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free. Donations
welcome.
NATIONAL MUSEUM
(MUZEUM NARODOWE W WARSZAWIE)
Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre inter-war
building, Warsaws National Museum has thankfully just
reopened after a long renovation that has seen many
changes including the renovation of the museums main
courtyard, a major rearrangement of the permanent gal-
leries and an impressive upcoming schedule of temporary
exhibits. Considering the new overhaul this museum is a
must for anyone visiting the city. Dating from 1862 and
operating under its current name since 1916, theres a
huge array of permanent exhibitions and antiquities.
Visitors will nd a wealth of delightful 15th-century Dutch
and Flemish paintings in the Gallery of Old European
Paintings and several galleries of Polish art from the 16th
century onwards, including some of the best work by the
countrys leading names in art - Chemoski and Matejko
to name a few. There is also a large gallery of medieval art
and a new gallery dedicated to works from the 20th and
21st centuries is well worth a look for fans of more recent
pieces.QC-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 621 10
31, www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 -
21:00. Closed Mon Last entrance 45 minutes before
closing. Ticket prices: permanent exhibitions 15/10z,
entire museum 20/15z. Family ticket: 40z permanent
exhibits, 50z entire museum. Tue free for permanent
exhibition.
POLISH ARMY MUSEUM
(MUZEUM WOJSKA POLSKIEGO)
The chronological his-
tory of the Polish army is
presented in a series of
gloomy rooms. Suits of
armour, crossbows, mus-
kets, medals and paintings
pack this museum, though
the scarcity of English-
language explanations
mean youll need to hire
an English-speaking guide
to get the most out of the place. The room at the end is
dedicated to Polands role in WWII, with specic empha-
sis on the Warsaw Uprising. Curiously, the best part of the
museum is actually free of charge: the outdoor collection
of 20th century weaponry includes an array of tanks, mis-
siles, aircraft and rocket launchers. Note that visitors can
see the Transport Aircraft AN26 or the Jak-40 for a 2z each.
QC-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 692 52 71, www.
muzeumwp.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon, Tue Last entrance 30 minutes before clos-
ing. Admission 12/6z, Sun free. Tours with audioguide
17/10z. N
PLACES OF INTEREST
INVISIBLE EXHIBITION
(NIEWIDZIALNA WYSTAWA)
Would you pay good money for an exhibition you cant
see? Thats the idea behind Niewidzialna Wystawa (The
Invisible Exhibition), which takes visitors into the world
of the sightless. The roughly hour-long tours (which we
recommend you book in advance to avoid waiting) are
helmed by guides who know of what they speak: all are
partially or completely blind themselves. Tours begin
with several stations that help get you acclimated to the
challenges blind people face daily. Youll get to tap on a
Braille typewriter, test out gadgets that help the sightless
do tasks in the kitchen, and try to solve simple puzzles
while wearing a blindfold. Once youre su ciently awed
by your inability to do even minor tasks the guide leads
the group into the main portion of the exhibition: a
pitch-black series of rooms that force you to rely on your
other senses to get by (were not kidding about the dark-
ness level; be prepared). Youll visit an art gallery, a bar
and take a walk outside while the guides ask questions
about what youre encountering - youll be listening for
the swoosh of cars before crossing the street, or feeling
a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is. If you bring
along change the guide will even serve you a drink in
the completely dark bar. An eye-opening experience that
will have you thinking heavily about what you take for
granted.QA-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 123a, tel. (+48) 504 32
44 44, www.niewidzialna.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00 Last
entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 24-28/19-
25z, family ticket 69z. Tickets reserved online cost 3
z less per ticket. N
PRESIDENTIAL PALACE
If pre-war Warsaw was
considered the Paris of
the East then Krakowskie
Przedmieie would have
been its Champs Elysees,
its importance recognized
by the number of palaces,
institutions, monuments and churches that line it. Of
those none are more important than the Presidential
Palace at number 46/48, that mysterious fenced-o
building guarded by stone lions and stern looking sol-
diers. Construction on it started in 1643 at the behest
of Stanisaw Koniecpolski, though was only completed
after his death. It passed into the hands of various aris-
tocratic families and in the 18th century became famed
for its banquets the most extravagant being held to
commemorate the coronation of Stanisaw II August
Poniatowski in 1789; over two million zoty was spent
entertaining the 4,000 guests. Poniatowski was to
prove one of the nations nest monarchs and the Con-
stitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very grounds,
is recognized as Europes rst and only the second in
the world. A statue of Poniatowskis brother, himself
a military hero, was added to in 1965. Of its residents
none were more eccentric than General Zajczek, a one
legged Duke who was carried around in his armchair by
a team of simpering servants. After 1818 it became the
seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, and its halls
entertained many a visiting Tsar. In 1852 calamity struck
and the palace was burned to the ground. Reconstruct-
ed by Alfons Kropiwnicki the rebuilt structure served
as a home to the Agricultural Society, and in 1879 Jan
Matejkos epic painting The Battle of Grunwald was put
on display to an appreciative Warsaw public. Extensive-
ly remodelled throughout the course of history one of
its biggest revamps came at the beginning of the 20th
century when one wing was demolished to make way
for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its indepen-
dence in 1918 it was commandeered to serve as home
of the Prime Minister and his Council of Ministers.
Amazingly it survived both the 1939 Siege of Warsaw
and the Warsaw Uprising ve years later, though that
did little to stop the authorities employing Antoni Brus-
che and Antoni Jawornicki to give it a further facelift. It
saw more momentous events in 1955, this time when
the Warsaw Pact the Soviet Unions answer to NATO
was ratied within its walls. Since 1994 it has served
as the o cial home of the Polish president, which is
exactly why youll nd streams of limos heading in and
out, and square jawed soldiers pointing their weapons
at anyone who strays too close. Interestingly enough,
however, is the fact that current president Bronisaw
Komorowski does not live there; instead he has cho-
sen to reside at Belvedere Palace next to azienki Park.
QC-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 46/48.
SASKI PALACE
One piece of lost Warsaw that is set to rise again is the
Saski Palace, formerly located in the grounds of Saski
Park (B-2). Originally the residence of the Morsztyn fam-
ily the building was purchased by King Augustus II and
substantially enlarged and used by both him and his
successor, Augustus III. O-topic, but nevertheless worth
airing, amateur historians will delight in learning that Au-
gustus II sired 12 children by dierent women, while his
successor managed to match the number, only this time
staying loyal to his wife in the process.
Back on track, when Augustus III passed away (shagged
out most likely) the building fell into disuse before being
rented out for accommodation. Between 1806-1816 the
Prussians established Warsaw Lyceum on the premises,
and conicting evidence suggests that Chopin either lived
there for a time, or that his father taught French in one of
the outbuildings. Extensively remodelled in 1842 the Pal-
ace nally assumed its best known shape in 1925 when
the Tomb of the Unknown soldier was added to the series
of colonnades used to link the two wings together. Serv-
ing as the seat of the Polish General Sta after WWI it was
here that the German Enigma Code was rst cracked by
local science bo ns. WWII signalled the end of the Palace
and it was attened by retreating Nazi troops, with only
the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier surviving the blasts.
But the story continues. In a rare act of foresight the city
of Warsaw has decided to cover the 201 million zoty
cost of rebuilding Saski Palace. Budimex Dromex have
been awarded the tender to undertake the work and
the faade, thanks to blueprints made available by the
Central Military Archive, will look just like it did in 1939.
Its not known what will occupy the space, with ideas
ranging from a Museum of Polish History to an institute
dedicated to the thoughts of Pope John Paul II. Comple-
tion was originally set for 2010, though so far building
work has not entirely gone to plan. Although sappers
failed to nd any undetonated devices, builders have
since come across over 10,000 rare archaeological nds
including baroque sculptures, secret tunnels, ancient
wells, German helmets and wine glasses bearing August
IIIs monogram. The one problem being that no provi-
sion was made for discoveries of this scale, meaning that
many of the treasures recovered have since corroded af-
ter being incorrectly stored. For the time being work ap-
pears to have stopped completely, with even the fences
taken down - when itll resume is anyones guess, though
we could be in for a bit of a wait.
Old Town Old Town
y j Pho Photo to by by Jac Jacek ek Kad Kad Kaddaj aj aj aj
A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement
facades and picturesque plazas with plenty of Olde World
charm, its easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaws
top tourist area. Entirely rebuilt after the Warsaw Uprising of
1944, the Old Town is also symbolic of Warsaws rise from the
ruins of WWII and of Varsovians pride in their city.
When US General Dwight Eisenhower visited Warsaw
after the war he was moved to comment, I have seen many
towns destroyed, but nowhere have I been faced with such
destruction. Buried beneath twenty million cubic metres
of rubble the city resembled a shattered shell; over half the
population had been killed, and 85% of the city razed to the
ground. The Old Town had been hit with particular Nazi e -
ciency, and by the time the Red Army rolled across the river it
was little more than a smouldering wasteland. To their credit
the Capital Reconstruction Bureau chose to rebuild the his-
toric centre, a painstaking process that would last until 1962.
Using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs the Old
Town was carefully rebuilt, though only at the considerable
expense of Polands recovered territories. Although now only
half a century old, Warsaws historic quarter is an architectural
miracle, and a stunning tribute to the citys will to survive.
WHAT TO SEE
Most visits to the Old Town begin on Plac Zamkowy (B-
2) under King Sigismunds Column. There isnt a more
popular meeting place in the city, and not a minute of the
day when the steps to the statue arent besieged by dating
couples, school kids and skateboarders. Erected in 1644 by
Sigismunds son, Wadysaw IV, the twenty-two metre col-
umn was designed by Italian architects Augustyn Locci and
Constantino Tencalla, and the gure of Sigismund ranks as
Polands second oldest monument - the oldest being the
Neptune Fountain in Gdask. Local legend asserts that Sigis-
mund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an oc-
currence that was rst reported during the 1794 Kociuszko
Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising
in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell
and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived,
losing only his sword, and he was returned to his new perch
in 1949. The remains of the original column can be seen
nearby at the side of the Royal Castle.
Its hard to believe that at the end of 1944 all before you
was just rubble, but thats exactly what it was. Evidence of
this can be viewed on ul. Zapiecek (B-2) where black and
white photographs illustrate the devastation. The Old Towns
subsequent inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List in
1980 is also remembered in some cobblestone pavers here.
Resisting the draw of the market square for the time being,
instead head down ul. Piwna (B-2) - aptly named Beer
Street after the 15th century breweries that once operated
here - for a glimpse of St. Martins Church at ul. Piwna 9/11.
Flattened during the war, the only fragment to survive was
a half-burned gure of Jesus. During the period of Martial
Law, Solidarity supporters would convene here to worship
and hold secret meetings. As with the rest of the Old Town,
the real beauty of ul. Piwna lies in the details - check out
the elaborate paintings and gargoyles that peer from the
facades, and dont miss the portal at number 6.
Stay on the left ank of the Old Town to check out the
area around ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska (B-2), once
home to a small square used for executions. Nicknamed
Piekarka, this is where witches and other neer do wells were
burned at the stake, hung, or beheaded. Marking the end of
Piekarska, just outside the old city walls, check out the sword
waving gure of Jan Kiliski - a legendary Polish patriot and
hero of the 1794 Kociuszko Uprising. Tadeusz Kociuszko
himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5; this wide street
was formerly home to Warsaws sh market, while the nar-
row street running at a 90 degree angle, Wski Dunaj, was
the towns Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages. Directly
behind the wall, and onto ul. Podwale (B-2), youll nd one
of Warsaws most poignant landmarks - The Monument
to the Little Insurgent - depicting a young lad weighed
down by a machine gun and over-sized helmet. The monu-
ment honours the memory of the child soldiers who fought
and died during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising.
Follow Podwale along to the Barbakan (B-1). Crown-
ing the set of defensive walls which once protected the
city, this fearsome rotund structure dates from 1548. Today
it serves as a bridge between the Old and New Town, and
is also the hangout of choice for teenage drinkers and art-
ists selling their wares. During the summer months you
can visit the interior, though its best avoided if you have
an aversion to conned spaces. The moat around the area
is another relatively recent addition. The original ditch was
lled in back in the 18th century and the walls were incor-
porated into the dense tangle of new townhouses. Frag-
ments of these forgotten defences were unearthed in 1937
and a decade later, with Warsaw in ruins, architects took the
decision to restore the ancient walls.
At this point youll nd your nose pointing straight
down ul. Nowomiejska (B-1). Continue forward to reach
the beautiful Old Town Square (Rynek, B-1/2). Measuring
90 by 73 metres this square is Warsaws dening highlight,
lined with richly decorated burgher houses. During the
15th century the Old Town Square was home to Warsaws
Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never
replaced. Today youll nd a couple of water pumps dat-
ing from the 19th century, as well as Warsaws best loved
monument - Syrenka. Cast in 1855 this mermaids form
graces every bus, tram and coat of arms youll nd in the
capital. While the Old Town Square presents no shortage of
ways to part tourists from their cash, one place that is worth
popping into is U Fukiera at number 27. The culinary tradi-
tion here dates from 1810 when the Fukier family turned
this place into Warsaws top winery. Today the restaurant
is in the hands of the famed Gessler family, and their guest
list reads as something of a Whos Who of stage and screen.
Close by is the Historical Museum of Warsaw (Rynek
Starego Miasta 28-42, B-1).
Finally, conclude your epic walking tour by swerving
onto ul. Kanonia (B-2). Once a graveyard, this little square
features a cracked cathedral bell (that promises good luck if
you touch the top and circle it) as well as one of the worlds
most narrow houses at number 20/22 (Etgar Kerets House
at ul. Chodna 22/ul. elazna 74 actually holds the claim for
worlds most narrow). Close by note the covered walkway
linking the Cathedral to the Royal Castle. This was built after
a failed assassination attempt on Sigismund III. The King es-
caped unharmed, but the hapless hitman, Micha Piekarski,
found himself skinned alive, stretched by four horses and
then chopped into pieces with an axe!
You yourself are now within horse-stretching dis-
tance of your starting point by Sigismunds Column.
Point your fatigued gure in the direction of Krakowskie
Przedmiecie and prepare yourself to take the path of
Kings along The Royal Route. Cue fanfare!
ROYAL CASTLE
More a palace than a castle, this building is the pride of
Warsaw, reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incred-
ible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furni-
ture was donated by now deceased commie buddies
such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money for
rebuilding came from generous donations from exiled
Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has
been the residence of Polish kings, then of the presi-
dent and then the seat of parliament. The prescribed
tour will take you through the Kings apartments and
chambers, heavily adorned with paintings of famous
Polish moments. Maps on the wall reect Polands
greatest days, when it stretched from the Baltic to the
Black Sea. The apartments of Jzef Poniatowski have
recently been opened to the public, though unfortu-
nately none of the accompany descriptions are in Eng-
lish. The rooms are still a worthwhile part of the tour,
if for no other reason than to see the Princes surpris-
ingly cerulean bedroom and grand collection of paint-
ings. Some of the halls are reputed to be intermittently
haunted by a white lady. According to legend her ap-
pearance signals imminent disaster. The nearby cha-
pel boasts an urn containing the heart of Polish hero
and freedom ghter Tadeusz Kocuiszko. Next on the
tour, the Houses of Parliament. Last but not least, the
opulent Great Assembly Hall has so much gold stuck
to the walls its hard to resist the temptation to scratch
some o - just a bit, they wouldnt notice. Behave or
get accosted by vigilant wardens and enjoy the views
across the river to the Praga district instead. For those
interested in the Castles reconstruction the basement
exhibition From Destruction to Reconstruction details
the buildings resurrection after World War II rendered
the place a pile of rubble. Note that this exhibition is
free, so those not willing to spring for a ticket for the
entire tour can still visit this section of the Castle.QB-2,
Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-
krolewski.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Ad-
mission 22/15z, family ticket 14z per person. Sun
free. Poniatowski apartments 14/7zl, family ticket
6zl per person. Sun free. Guides in English 110z, au-
dioguides 17/12z. U
The Royal Route
Warsaws famed Royal Route links the citys three Royal res-
idences, starting from the Royal Castle on Plac Zamkowy,
via azienki Parks Palace on the Island, en route to Wilanw
Palace in the district of the same name. Covering 11km in
length, this main artery through the city takes in a great
range of Warsaws historic buildings, parks, churches and
monuments, making a trek down the path of the Kings a
must-do part of any visit to the city. The heart of the route,
along Krakowskie Przedmiecie and Nowy wiat, will also
lead you past, or more likely into, a grand selection of hos-
telries, restaurants and shops. Granted, a few of the further
out parts of the route may not be anything to write home
about, but it really is worth making the eort in order to vis-
it the beautiful Wilanw Palace, gardens and parkland. We
let you know what not to miss in our walking tour below.
KRAKOWSKIE PRZEDMIECIE
Krakowskie Przedmiecie is easily one of Polands most pres-
tigious and well-known streets. It stretches from the Royal
Castle (Pl. Zamkowy 4, B-2) in the Old Town until it blends
into ul. Nowy wiat. With the Royal Castle and Old Town cov-
ered extensively elsewhere in the guide (see Sightseeing), we
begin our stroll from the sabre-rattling King Sigismunds
Column just outside the castle. This popular meeting point
sees its steps visited by buskers, tourists and white-gowned
brides in search of memorable snaps. From this point head
to St. Annes Church (ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 68, B-2),
a neo-classical eort that survived the war but came within
a whisker of collapse when work on the W-Z street tunnel in
1949 caused several landslides; it took a team of 400 workers
two weeks to shore the foundations and stabilise the soil, but
the real hero of the hour was Romauld Cebertowicz - a pro-
fessor who invented a way of solidifying the soil via the use
of electrical currents. The interior of St. Annes is ne, but the
real reason for visiting is the viewing platform, which oers
impressive views of the Old Town and a distant shot of the
red and white National Stadium.
A short stroll will take you to the Adam Mickiewicz monu-
ment (ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 5, B-2). This statue was
erected in 1898 - the centenary of the birth of Polands best-
loved bard. Unveiled at a time of Imperial Russian repression
the very creation of his likeness was regarded as something
of a bombshell, and over 12,000 patriotic Poles turned up to
cheer the ribbon cutting. Standing just behind Mr. Mickiewicz
is a 1784 pink building recognisable for having a chunk miss-
ing from its facade, and the 17th century Carmelite Church
next door (ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 52/54, B-2) is one of
the best examples of the classical style to be found in Poland.
Stop for photos by the stone lions and stern looking
guards outside the Presidential Palace (ul. Krakowskie
Przedmiecie 46/48, C-2). Construction on the palace
began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisaw Koniecpolski,
although he died before it was completed. It passed into
the hands of various aristocratic families and in the 18th
century it became the famed venue for lavish society ban-
quets - none being more extravagant than the party held
to celebrate the coronation of Stanislaw II August Ponia-
towski in 1789, when the astounding sum of over two mil-
lion zoty was spent entertaining 4,000 guests. Some will
say it was money well spent; Poniatowski proved to be one
of Polands nest monarchs and the constitution of May 3,
1791, signed on these very grounds, is recognised as Eu-
ropes rst. When Poland regained independence in 1918
the reconstructed building was commandeered to serve as
home to the Polish Prime Minister and his Council of Min-
isters. It saw more momentous events in 1955, this time
when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Unions answer to NATO
- was ratied within its walls. In 1989 round table talks
between the communists and the opposition were held
here, paving the way for political freedom, and in 1994 it
was appointed as the o cial home of the Polish President -
though current president Bronisaw Komorowski has opted
to reside at the Belvedere Palace (ul. Belwederska 56, G-5).
The Prez obviously needs classy neighbours, so next door
youll nd the elegant and recently overhauled Bristol
Hotel (ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 42/44, C-2). A brass
plaque boasts of its many famous guests: Picasso, Nixon
and Dietrich, to name but a few. Across the street, the
current building of the Ministry of Culture and Art (ul. Kra-
kowskie Przedmiecie 15) is also home to its own historical
factoid - it was here that Napoleon met his paramour Marie
Walewska at a ball held in his honour.
Why all the young, fresh faced kids? Well, youre in War-
saw University-land. The Unis main campus lies behind
the grand gateway at ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 26/28
(C-2). Dating from the 17th century the main building,
known as Villa Regia, was remodelled and renovated sev-
eral times before Warsaw U was established here in 1819.
The uni had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in re-
taliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the university continued
to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar calmed
down enough to rubber stamp the creation of a School of
Medicine. Today, with some 57,000 students on the roll call,
the university stands out as the largest and arguably best
in Poland. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier
Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning
hack Ryszard Kapuciski, the late president Lech Kaczyski
and poet Julian Tuwim.
Silverline
Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13, Warsaw
OPENING HOURS:
Mo-Fri 10-19 Sat-Su: 10-17
Modern and traditional
jewellery
with
natural amber
DESI GNERS QUALI TY
Te best Baltic amber in Warsaw
ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
Palace of Culture & Science The Royal Route
the Russian governor in 1863. Infuriated Cossack troops re-
acted by launching a piano once tickled by Chopin out the
window, though nowadays the drama is limited to dancing
in the basement club or dining on the elegant ground oor.
Back onto Nowy wiat you should now be in sight of our
citys famous plastic palm tree which stands on the de
Gaulle roundabout at the intersection of Al. Jerozolimskie
and Nowy wiat. Created by artist Joanna Rajkowska, the
palm links the fauna of the city of Jerusalem with its name-
sake avenue Jerozolimskie in Warsaw. Before reaching the
palm tree, however, one must stop o at an oasis, and
there is no place better than the legendary rat-like maze
of Pawilony (The Pavilions) located behind the gates at
number 22. Klaps (ul. Nowy wiat 22/28, Pavilion 12a, C-4)
is a cant-miss experience if you like your dcor to include a
wall of plastic boobs and beer taps crowned with vibrators!
Before crossing the busy roundabout keep your eyes peeled
for a poignant Socialist Realist mural of a girl holding a pis-
tol - one of the earliest tributes to the Warsaw Uprising. Once
safely across de Gaulle roundabout, you will be greeted by a
monument to the great General himself. Behind him stands
the hulking edice of the former Communist HQ at Nowy
wiat 6 (C-4). Completed in 1948, rumours that it was secretly
connected by a tunnel to the Palace of Culture appear unsub-
stantiated, but you have to love the irony that it briey served
as home to the stock exchange; today the building hosts nu-
merous o ces, a Ferrari dealership and Cuda na Kiju - one of
Warsaws best real ale multi-tap bars. Scurry along this fairly
uninspiring stretch of Nowy Swiat to Pl. Trzech Krzyy (C-4),
home to the beautiful 19th century classical style St. Alex-
anders Church (ul. Ksica 21, C-4). The surrounding area is
home to some of Warsaws top boutiques, including the likes
of Burberry, Zegna and Escada.QC-3/4.
FURTHER ON
From Plac Trzech Krzyy (C-4), Warsaws royal route
continues down the Embassy-land of Aleje Ujazdowsk-
ie past the Ujazdowskie and azienki Parks (G-4), down
ul. Belwederska (G-5), ul. Sobieskiego (H-6) and Aleja
Wilanowska to ultimately end at Wilanw Palace - the
17th century private residence of King Jan III Sobieski.
While a walking tour of the remaining 10km isnt re-
alistic, or especially rewarding, azienki and Wilanw
are both required visits for getting a broader sense of
Warsaws history and former glory as the grand capital
of a vast and wealthy commonwealth stretching from
the Baltic to the Black Sea. We detail both destinations
extensively further on in our Sightseeing section, and
though both could occupy the better part of a day on
their own, you can also easily continue your tour from
the bus stop at the southern end of Pl. Trzy Krzyy. To
get to azienki Park, simply hop on bus numbers
116, 166 or 180 and get o two stops later at
azienki Krlewskie. For Wilanw, take bus 116,
180 or E-2 and get o at Wilanw 25mins later.
Photo by Kescior/Wikipedia
Head across the street to visit the Church of the Holy Cross
(ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 3, C-3). This is the famed nal
resting place of Fryderyk Chopins heart, which was sealed
in an urn at his own request and placed behind a tablet fea-
turing his likeness, becoming a place of pilgrimage for his
legions of fans. Finish your Krakowskie Przedmiecie wan-
der with a visit to the Nicolaus Copernicus monument,
located opposite the church, appropriately seated in front
of the Polish Academy of Sciences (ul. Nowy wiat 72, C-3).
The monument was unveiled in 1830 and has seen plenty
of action, particularly during WWII when the Nazis added
a bronze plaque suggesting the astronomer was actually
German. In 1942 a brave boy scout removed the plaque,
causing the Nazis to remove the monument and bomb
several others as retribution. Fortunately Copernicus was
recovered and restored following the war. The controversial
plaque can now be seen in the Historical Museum of War-
saw (Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, B-1).QB-2, C-3.
NOWY WIAT
Nip across the ul. witokrzyska intersection and Krakowskie
Przedmiecie suddenly becomes the New World! The story
of ul. Nowy wiat (New World Street) dates back to medieval
times when it was traversed by Kings on their way between
Warsaw and Krakw, with the rst settlements appearing in
the area during the 17th century. Levelled during WWII, the
street found itself rebuilt in rather uniform neo-classical style,
as returning it to its predominantly Art Nouveau pre-war
style was simply unfeasible. Nowy wiat, along with its little
o-shoot streets, has long been seen as one of THE places to
be seen and is home to numerous shops, bars and eateries.
Expect a myriad of modern and traditional restaurants and
coee shops, including the popular Bierhalle microbrew-
ery which makes an ideal pitstop at ul. Nowy wiat 64 (C-3),
before shoving o to snap a pic of the former home of cult
writer and Anglophile Joseph Conrad at number 45. If its
too early in the day for a hefty German style beer, drop into
the renowned Caf Blikle (ul. Nowy wiat 33, C-3), famous
for once serving doughnuts to a young and sweet-toothed
Charles de Gaulle. Just across the street you will nd super
trendy ul. Foksal (C-3) for more gastronomic and drinking
opportunities; follow it to its end to see Zamoyski Palace
(ul. Foksal 1/2/4), a neo-renaissance pearl designed by Mar-
coni and the scene of a botched assassination attempt on
PALACE OF CULTURE AND SCIENCE
(PAAC KULTURY I NAUKI)
For all the aggressive westernisation that has overcome
Warsaw, the four decades of communism have yet to be
completely erased from the face of Warsaw.. You couldnt
miss this hulking giant of a landmark if you tried.
Originally commissioned by Stalin as a gift from the Soviet
people the 231 metre structure actually takes its inspiration
from the capitalist world, namely the Empire State Building,
but, believe it or not, was specically designed to include
inuences from all of Polands architectural styles. Stalin
had sent a secret delegation to New York to learn both
about the building and American construction methods,
though the outbreak of WWII meant that it wasnt until
1952 that his architects were able to commence putting
their knowledge into practice. Lev Rudynev, the brains be-
hind the equally monstrous Lomonosov University in Mos-
cow, was put in charge of the design and set about making
the building into one of the most notorious examples of
Socialist Realist architecture in the world. Over 5,000 work-
ers were ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a
purpose-built village in Jelonki, west Warsaw, where they
were eectively cut o from the outside world. Working
around the clock, it took them just three years to complete
the Palace. In all 16 died during the construction, though
despite the Olympian eorts of the labourers Stalin never
lived to see his pet project completed.
Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing 3,288
rooms the Palaces purpose was to serve as not just party
headquarters but also the peoples castle, with invitations to
the annual New Years Eve Ball issued to the best workers in
socialist Poland. Regardless of this the building became an
object of hatred and the palace was seen as no more than
a symbol of Russian hegemony. Viewed from a distance -
apparently it can be spotted from 30km away - the palace
appears a faceless monolith. Viewed closely several intricate
details appear in focus. Under Stalins orders architects trav-
elled around Polands key cultural sights, from Wawel to
Zamo, observing Polish architectural traditions, hence the
numerous crenulations, courtyards and motifs.
Once inside the ground oor becomes a maze of halls and
corridors, with chambers named after Eastern icons - Yuri
Gagarin, Marie Skodowska-Curie (a famous communist
sympathiser), etc. Brass chandeliers hang over clacking par-
quet ooring, secret lifts lie hidden around and allegorical
socialist reliefs take inspiration from ancient mythology - its
easy to imagine Bond snooping around planting listen-
ing devices. The crowning glory of the ground oor is the
Sala Kongresowa, a decadent red theatre space apparently
inspired by La Scala. Holding 2,880 its original use was to
host party conferences, though through the years it became
better known as a concert venue - hosting acts as diverse as
the Rolling Stones in 1967 and the Chippendales in 2006.
Given that the building boasts over 3,300 rooms there is not
a lot to see, unless youre into conference facilities, so visitors
are best directed to the terrace on the 30th oor. To get there
youll need to buy a ticket, after which youll be shepherded
into an old-style lift complete with a lovely lift attendant who
has probably been doing the job since the building opened.
Opening hours of the Palace are likely to expand in May.QB-
4, Pl. Deflad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Open
09:00 - 18:00. Admission for the viewing level is 18/12z.
Group ticket for more than 10 people 10z per person. N
MUSEUM OF TECHNOLOGY (MUZEUM TECHNIKI)
A vast collection dedicated to the history of everything
technological inside the equally enormous Palace of Cul-
ture & Science, this museum is only missing a map. Truly
huge, and clearly laid out by somebody with a sadistic
sense of humour, the scores of rooms are scattered willy
nilly and organised with what appears to be a contemptu-
ous disregard for reason and logic. Highlights include a cav-
alcade of impossible-looking motorbikes and aeroplanes,
a room packed with 19th century musical boxes, historical
cars like a 1936 Lux-Sport limousine chassis and a small ex-
hibition celebrating space exploration that could do with
some serious updating. Decorated with lace curtains and
staed by an army of sinister-looking old ladies, this mu-
seum guarantees that you wont learn a thing no matter
how hard you try, but its a strangely rewarding experience
that really has to be seen to be believed.QB-4, Pl. Deflad
1 (PKiN), tel. (+48) 22 656 67 47, www.muzeumtechniki.
warszawa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 14/8z. Family ticket (up to 5
people) 30z. Guided tours in English - additional 50z
per group. YN
Warsaws Palm Tree Photo: Ala_z/wikipedia/CC BY 3.0
Praga Praga
SOVIET WAR MEMORIAL
(POMNIK BRATERSTWA BRONI)
Dedicated to the Soviet soldiers who died during the lib-
eration of Warsaw, this monument has been removed due
to the construction of a new Metro station and will spend
some time being restored before relocating 80 metres
down the road on Pl. Wileski (towards ul. Cyryla i Meto-
dego). Erected in the immediate aftermath of WWII, the
rusting edice is the citys least loved memorial and is often
littered with gra ti (though the clean-up should temporar-
ily take care of this). Its Praga location is quite apt - this was
where the Red Army halted their advance in 1944, while
Nazi troops put down the Warsaw Uprising and then de-
molished the city.QG-1, Pl. Wileski.
STS. MICHAEL & FLORIAN CATHEDRAL
(KATEDRA W. MICHAA ARCHANIOA
I W. FLORIANA)
This giant gothic cathedral
viewable from across the
Vistula in Warsaw proper was
built in reaction to the build-
ing of an Orthodox Church
and a number of other struc-
tures on the Tsars orders in
the latter half of the 19th
century. A certain Pole by
the name of Father Ignacy
Dutkiewicz decided to hit
back with the construction of
a huge new Catholic church,
which was consecrated in
1901. Unsurprisingly this vast Gothic beast was blown to
pieces by the Germans in September 1944 and is now
almost exclusively the work of ongoing reconstruction
between 1947 and 1970. Featuring a pair of steel-tipped
75-metre steeples, the church, which includes a photo-
graph of what remained of it after the Nazis dynamited
it on the left wall as you enter, has a rather plain interior
though the vaulted ceilings are well worth a look at if youre
in the area.QG-1, ul. Floriaska 3, tel. (+48) 22 619 09
60, www.katedra-foriana.home.pl/cms/. Open by prior
arrangement.
ZBKOWSKA
Nowhere is Pragas revival better illustrated than ulica
Zbkowska, the natural gravitational point for all the Boho
and artistic types who have recently materialized to up-
grade the district. Originally lined with timber frame hous-
es, Zbkowska experienced a erce blaze in 1868 that led
to wooden lodgings being replaced with tall tenements,
all but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street
hard, with Zbkowska allowed to fall into such disrepair
that plans for wholesale demolition were seriously con-
sidered. However it survived, and today restoration work
has seen many of buildings returned to their former glory,
streets repaved and galleries opened. For some the very
name Zbkowska is synonymous with lively bars lled with
student revolutionaries.
BUILDINGS
Although in a sorry state of disrepair, much of Praga sur-
vived the war. Nowadays, to walk around the bullet-scarred
tenement houses found by the riverside is to immerse
yourself in pre-war Praga. The oldest surviving residential
building in the district can be found on (H-1) ul. Targowa
50/52. Built in 1819, it once housed a Jewish Synagogue
and bears a Hebrew inscription dating from 1934. Note that
at press time the buildings were covered with a protective
sheet due to impending renovations.
KOCIUSZKOWCW MONUMENT
(POMNIK KOCIUSZKOWCW)
A formidable monument erected in 1985 to act as a memo-
rial for those who fought in the First Polish Infantry Division.
Formed in Russia, the division attempted to cross the Wisa riv-
er several times without success, in a bid to support the 1944
Uprising.QG-1, ul. Wybrzee Szczeciskie, Near Port Praski.
ORTHODOX CHURCH OF ST. MARY MAGDALENE
(CERKIEW W. MARII MAGDALENY)
Constructed between 1867 and 1869 to a design by Mikoaj
Syczew, St. Mary Magdalenes was originally built for the large
congregation of Russians living around Jagielloska as well as
people arriving from the East at the nearby Wileska train sta-
tion. Now belonging to the independent Polish Autocephaly
Orthodox Church, this stunning, ve-domed building features
a breathtaking golden interior and some unusually cheerful ab-
stract designs. One of only two Orthodox churches to survive a
demolition campaign in the 1920s, its easily the best-smelling
church in Praga thanks to the heavy burning of rich incense.
QG-1, Al. Solidarnoci 52, tel. (+48) 22 619 84 67. Open
11:00 - 15:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00; Sat open during mass only.
RYCKI BAZAAR (BAZAR RYCKIEGO)
Once regarded as Warsaws premier bazaar, the rambling
Bazar Ryckiego has seen its popularity wane since 1989.
Black market trade once thrived under Nazi and communist
governments, but nowadays the historic market (it began in
1901) is a ghostly image of its former self. Once considered the
place for cardigans, rearms and spurious goods, its now a
mildly depressing look into working class Warsaw life. Visitors
could easily outt an entire polyester wedding thanks to the
heaps of vendors selling cheap wedding dresses, tacky kiddie
tuxes and chintzy mother-of-the-bride gowns.QH-1, ul. Tar-
gowa 54, tel. (+48) 22 619 44 06, www.bazarrozyckiego.pl.
Open 07:00 - 17:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
youve seen the condition Warsaw was left in). The Russians,
again, arrived in Praga in July 1944 and stopped at the Vis-
tula, famously leaving the Polish Home Army dangling dur-
ing the Warsaw Uprising.
Today working-class Praga is the standard-bearer for cool,
especially among those who nd the tourist-heavy Old
Town too Disneyed and the sterile clubs of Warsaw proper
as distasteful. Folks here prefer their bars dark and their fun
improvised, and visitors can easily spend a day checking
out the sights and an evening enjoying the often impres-
sive beer selection.
AGNIESZKA OSIECKA MONUMENT
(POMNIK AGNIESZKI OSIECKIEJ)
Agnieszka Osiecka (1936 - 1997) was a Polish poet and jour-
nalist, and the author of over 2,000 songs, many of which
were turned into pop hits. Shes also known for a particularly
grisly connection to the Swinging Sixties; her rst marriage
ended in tragedy when her husband, Wojciech Frykowski,
became one of those slain by Charles Mansons family of
weirdos in what would turn out to be one of the crimes
of the century. The statue is located in Praga Poudnie, a
more modern section of Praga (note the surrounding em-
bassies) than Stara Praga. To round out your visit check out
Osieckas favourite caf, Maska, which stands around the
corner from her monument.QH-2, ul. Francuska (corner
of ul. Obrocw).
BEARS
Strangely enough, bears have been living on the con-
crete island in Praski Park since 1949; over 400 have been
reared here before being packed o to zoos, safari parks
and circuses around the globe. Although the bears look
rather sleepy they can still pack a punch. Several years
ago a drunken idiot was savaged after jumping into the
enclosure. The three current well-rested residents are
called Tatra, Maa and Sabina.QC-1, Praski Park (from al.
Solidarnoci), tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41.
GETTING TO PRAGA
By Public Transport:
From Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the
river and drop you at the Park Praski stop, a great place
to begin your tour of Praga (you can nod at the bears
as you disembark). If youre in the Old Town simply walk
down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarnosci
and the Stare Miasto tram stop and every tram heading
over the river (23, 26) stops at Park Praski as well. These
same trams will return you to the Stare Miasto as well.
By taxi:
You can also take a taxi which should cost around
20-30z and should take you from the centre area to
Zbkowska in less than 20 minutes. Please remember
that the price and time depends on the tra c, so your
journey may be longer during rush hours.
TOURIST INFORMATION
PRAGA TOURIST INFORMATION (PRASKA
INFORMACJA TURYSTYCZNA)
Info on the local area and guided tours in English and
Polish, as well as an application for smartphones that
oers a tour of Praga in English.QH-1, ul. Zbkowska
27/31, tel. (+48) 22 670 01 56, www.totu.travel.pl.
Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Micha Durak/Wikipedia/CC
BY-SA 3.0
Gritty. Bo-ho. Up-and-coming. There are a lot of terms be-
ing tossed around to describe Praga, the eastern district of
Warsaw that hugs the Vistula River, and theyre all fairly apt.
Praga has long been regarded as o-limits to Western visi-
tors thanks to its criminal underclass and imposing tower
blocks, but a revival of sorts now makes this section of town
worthy of emphasising - especially if you prefer to see the
citys artsy underbelly and get away from the well-trodden
tourist path in Old Town. The area is still at least ve years
away from being hipster-soaked Brooklyn or boho Mont-
martre, but thats exactly why now is the time to go: a visit
will mean you can say you saw the evolution in progress.
In practice and geographically Praga has always been set
apart from Warsaw proper. Until 1791 the district was its
own separate town and the inability to build a permanent
bridge between Praga and Warsaw until the mid-18th cen-
tury surely proved a factor in the separatism (ferries in the
summer and a stroll across the iced-over Vistula in the win-
ter were the main option for transit in the pre-bridge days).
Finally in 1791 King Stanislaw August Poniatowski attached
the district o cially to Warsaw, dissolving it of its indepen-
dence (at least on paper).
Praga wasnt given much time to enjoy its new status as
part of Warsaw thanks to the The Battle of Praga in 1794,
which saw an aggressive invasion by the Russian army.
Following the quick but devastating battle the Russians
burned the entire district and massacred the 20,000 Poles
living there. During World War II Praga wasnt quite as dev-
astated as Warsaw proper (which isnt really saying much if
Copernicus Science Centre Copernicus Science Centre
VISITING TODAY
Arriving at the main doors at the north end of the build-
ing, you will be met by the centres very own Robothespian.
A fully programmable humanoid robot, the Robothespian
was developed in Britain by the Eden Project in Cornwall.
He speaks, interacts, mimics and performs, and visitors
can prompt him to make a number of sounds, speech and
movements by the adjacent control panel. This will keep the
kids busy while you queue at the central ticket desk where
you will be given a set of credit card-style entrance passes.
You should keep hold of these as not only do they allow
you to enter and exit the building throughout the day, but
they will also become your ID card as you move through the
exhibitions, many of which allow you to record your results
(which are stored and then emailed to you afterwards).
Passing through the barriers, the rst display you come to
is a huge swinging ball. The ball swings backwards and for-
wards, periodically knocking over mallets that strike a bell
as they fall. These bells are lined up around the swinging
ball in a circle and although the ball swings in a straight line
backwards and forwards, the knocking over of the mallets
proves that the earth is constantly, actually rotating.
Having admired this, the interactive exhibitions begin. First
of all, register your card with your name and email address
at one of the terminals so that you will be identied as you
progress through the CSC. You currently have over 350
experiments to visit, spread over two oors and six areas:
Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre
Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre
GETTING IN
COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE
(CENTRUM NAUKI KOPERNIK)
QG-2, ul. Wybrzee Kociuszkowskie 20, tel. (+48)
22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl. Open 09:00 -
18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last en-
trance 1 hour before closing.
Note that the Planetarium has diferent opening
hours. Open 09:30 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Last en-
trance 1 hour before closing. Admission 25/16z,
family ticket 66z. (2adults+2children). Use of the
labs, which are only available to individuals on the
weekends, costs an additional 9z. Note that you
must buy a separate ticket for the Planetarium. Ad-
mission 18-23z/13-18z, family ticket 49-64z.
While the worlds attention was drawn towards the highly
visible, round-the-clock construction of Warsaws amazing
new stadium on the right bank of the Wisa, work was also
being carried out across the water on a building that has
since outshined the stadium now that the Euro 2012 hoop-
la has died down. Built on time and on budget (well, just
about), the Copernicus Science Centre (CSC) - which stands
almost directly opposite the stadium along the river - has
established itself as one of Warsaws top tourist attractions.
GETTING THERE
The centre can be found in the shadow of the witokrzyski
Bridge on the banks of the Wisa River. A journey to the CSC
from the centre of Warsaw should take around 10 minutes.
Buses 105, 118 and 127 will drop you at the Biblioteka Uni-
wersytecka stop, requiring a short walk around the corner
to the unmissable building. Buses 102 and 162 will drop
you at the Pomnik Syreny stop with the CSC clearly in sight.
Alternatively visit the About us section of the English lan-
guage website www.kopernik.org.pl, where you can get di-
rections by car, by bus, or by foot by typing in your address.
INTRODUCTION
A rare example of European Union funding being used in a
genuinely visionary way, the CSC is many things, not least
(in the words of Polands Education Minister shortly before
the opening) an attempt to restate the case for science and
research in what can still be an intensely and deeply reli-
gious country. In that sense, giving t he centre the name of
the man who did so much to end the churchs monopoly of
education in the rst place is little short of a masterstroke.
Not that Copernicus did it all his own way; in the aftermath
of the tragic death of Polish President Lech Kaczynski in
April 2010 the presidents political party, PiS (Law & Justice),
lobbied heavily to have the CSC renamed for him. The re-
quest was politely, respectfully, refused.
Given the stunning, futuristic sight - all glass and steel -
that greets visitors at the 93 million (half of which came
from the EU, half of which came from the Polish taxpayer)
CSC today, its a little ironic that the buildings origins are
slightly more humble. The idea of creating the centre rst
took shape at the informal Science Picnics - outdoor sci-
ence, culture and art events aimed at the general public
that have been held in Warsaws Rynek Nowego Miasta
since 1997. The idea of the picnics (which were organ-
ised by Polskie Radio, strangely enough) was to bring
popular science to the masses through hands-on experi-
ments. Each year, as the numbers of scientists, universities,
schools and members of the general public taking part
grew, it became clear that there was an expanding interest
in science in Warsaw, while the large numbers of foreign
visitors who came to the events suggested that there was
an untapped market in the region for hands-on scientic
learning. Construction of the CSC was the natural next
step, though it took a number of years to secure the site
and funding.
Given the ad hoc Science Picnic origins of the CSC, it is
no surprise that the museum (if we can call it that) was
opened in a slightly ad hoc, it-will-be-all-right-eventually
fashion. The opening show, Wielki Wybuch (The Big Bang),
directed by Peter Greenaway and Saskia Boddeke, was a
little underwhelming (and at certain points quite bizarre),
while visitors to the centre in the rst couple of weeks were
greeted by an annoyingly large number of this exhibit is
temporarily out of order signs. Yet throughout 2011 as
the CSC rolled out sections of the museum to the public
it quickly became clear that this is unquestionably the very
best science centre in Europe, and today visitors can enjoy
a fully completed attraction.
Roots of Civilisation, Bzzz! (for preschool children) and
RE:generation (for young adults) on the ground oor, and
Humans and the Environment, LightZone and On the Move
located upstairs. Each area demonstrates a range of phe-
nomenon by way of experiments, button pressing, quizzes
and in some cases physical exertion with the aim of helping
you to discover the secrets of the world around us.
Additional hands-on activities geared especially towards
teens can be found in the Re: generation Zone, where
visitors over 14 can experiment with psychology, sociol-
ogy, economics or biotechnology through 80 multimedia
exhibits we swear weve never seen teens more eusive
and excited as they tried to identify a monkeys emotions,
or nish lyrics to popular songs. Theres also four interactive
labs dealing with chemistry, biology, physics and robotics
that oer supervised experiments for kids over 13 (instruc-
tions are in Polish however) and an outdoor Discovery Park
lled with installations lining the Wisa.
Its easy to declare that the centre is well-worth a few
hours of your time and will impress you with its design
and range of experiments. Factor in the main oor caf-
eteria and the packed Science Store (potentially the best
spot for childrens gifts in Warsaw) and its a one-stop day
of fun. The sta is keen, very helpful and English-speaking;
we saw many interacting happily with kids and helpfully
controlling the chaos. If there is one gripe we have it would
concern the Robotics show, which can be found inside the
Roots of Civilisation section. The 20-minute show we saw
told an embarrassingly bad story about a robot that wants
to become human in order to marry a princess, and used
language that seemed slightly out of reach for young chil-
dren. The various accents can also be ba ing (one robot
sounds like a drunken Sean Connery) and the robots them-
selves are like sti mannequins that move back and forth
on a small track. Completely skippable.
Considering the size and scope of this operation, one mi-
nor aw in an otherwise awe-inspiring complex is a feat
unseen in Warsaw. And if truth be told, it would have been
very hard to imagine such a potentially world-class visitor
attraction being built in this city just a few years ago. Yet
here it is, which ought to be worth an exhibit in and of itself
about how the impossible can become possible.
azienki
PALACE ON THE ISLAND (PAAC NA WYSPIE)
The Palace on the Island is azienkis raison detre. The pal-
ace - completed in 1683 to designs by Tylman Gamerski
- was originally a bathhouse, converted into a residence
in the late 1700s (after being bought by Stanisaw August
Poniatowski). The palace is built on an articial island that
divides the lake into two parts, and is connected to the
surrounding park by two colonnaded bridges. The faades
are unied by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two
oors and are crowned by a balustrade that bears statues
of mythological gures. The northern faade is relieved by
a striking central portico, while the southern faades deep
central recess lies behind a screen of Corinthian columns.
Today a museum, almost all of the palace can be visited
(though currently the rst oor is o limits), including the
main reception room, Solomons Hall, decorated in the
most extravagant of Baroque styles with a series of paint-
ings depicting the History of Solomon. They were executed
for King Stanisaw Augustus in 1791-93 by Marcello Bacci-
arelli and depicted the monarch himself as the biblical king.
Many of the kings personal rooms are also open to the pub-
lic, set in their original context. To get the best out of the
palace we recommend taking one of the excellent guided
tours (call ahead to book such a tour). Opeing hours are
subject to change.QG-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506
00 28, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00,
Mon 11:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Admission
20/15z and comes with headphones. Free on Thurs and
daily from 17:00-18:00. Guides 100z per group up to 25
people. To arrange guide call 22 506 01 70.
azienki
GETTING TO AZIENKI
Any number of buses stop in front of the parks three
main entrances, on Al. Ujazdowskie, including Nos. 116,
166 and 180. From the city centre however perhaps the
easiest way of reaching azienki is to take a tram from
Centrum to Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, and walk 100 metres
along Bagatela to the parks southern entrance, in front
of the Belvedere Palace. Orientation around the park is
relatively easy given the prominent placement of maps
and signs - in Polish and English - in key locations. There
is also a very good azienki complex map (again, in Pol-
ish and English) which can be picked up for free from
the Palace on the Water or any of the museums in the
park. If you enter the park via any of the entrances on Al.
Ujazdowskie, chances are you will end up, willingly or
not, via some surprisingly hilly paths set with tall trees,
at the vast articial lake in the parks centre, straddled
by the magnicent Palace on the Island. In doing so
however, you risk missing out on a few treasures, so try
to circumnavigate the park instead.
While you can buy tickets for each azienki attraction
individually, you can also purchase a one-day ticket or
two-days combined ticket which oers single-access
to a chunk of the attractions (Ujazdowski Castle, The
Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship and the Bo-
tanical Garden are not among them). A one-day ticket
is 25/15z, two-day tickets 30/20z.
Anyone who still thinks that Warsaw is a city of concrete
and cement has clearly never been to the citys lung, the
incomparable azienki Park (G-4). Quite simply, this glori-
ous, 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of
the jewels in Polands crown, which might explain why half
of Warsaw chooses to spend its summer Sundays here. Fear
not though, for so big is azienki that it never gives the
impression of being crowded, and even on the busiest of
days you will always be able to nd a quiet, shady corner
somewhere.
BELVEDERE PALACE (BELWEDER)
Head next for the Belvedere Palace residence of the Pol-
ish President from 1918 to 1995 (Presidents Aleksander
Kwaniewski and Lech Kaczyski opting to live in the Presi-
dential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie) this is once
again the Warsaw residence of the Polish president (now
Bronisaw Komorowski). Built in 1694 but thoroughly re-
modelled in 1818, the building is predictably o limits. For
the best views of the palace and some outstanding photo
opportunities you should look at it from Al. Ujazdowskie: it
is a wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tym-
panium and oversized Corinthian columns.QG-5, ul. Bel-
wederska 56.
CHOPIN MONUMENT & TEMPLE OF SIBYL
(POMNIK CHOPINA I WITYNIA DIANY)
On entering the park proper, make your rst port of call
the Chopin Monument, sculpted by Witold Szymanowski
and unveiled in 1926. It depicts Chopin sitting right here in
azienki, next to a willow tree. The original sculpture was
destroyed during WWII, and the one we admire today went
up in 1958. During the summer impressive concerts take
place around the statue almost every Sunday at 12:00 and
16:00 (concerts begin May 18 and end September 28). Al-
most hidden in the trees a few metres from Chopin is the
astonishing Temple of the Sibyl (closed to the public), an
1820s replica Greek Temple built entirely of wood. Look out
too for a gaggle of other little buildings here such as the
Hermitage, the Egyptian Temple and the Water Tower.
None are currently open to the public.QG-4.
AZIENKI PARK (PARK AZIENKOWSKI)
The name azienki means baths and is derived from the
parks centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace
on the Island. The palace was originally built in the 17th
century as a private bathhouse for Stanisaw Herakliusz Lu-
bomirski, owner of the adjacent Ujazdw Castle and much
of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come to men-
tion it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Po-
land, Stanisaw August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted
into a private residence (and taking the name Palace on the
Island). It was at this time that the grounds were formally
laid out as a private garden, most of the landscaping being
carried out to the designs of Karol Ludwig Agricola and Karol
Schultz. Today dotted with many palaces (big and small),
summer houses, pavilions, mansions, cafes, restaurants,
lakes and theatres, azienki oers much to see and to make
the best of it you should plan to spend a full day here.
One word of warning however before you pack a picnic
and the cricket set: azienki, for all its charms, is further evi-
dence of the fact that many Central Europeans have never
quite grasped the idea of what parks are actually for. With
superbly kept grass at every turn, perfect for picnics, pick up
games of cricket, softball, football or whatever else it is peo-
ple get up to in parks in the western world, azienki takes
a very stern look but dont touch attitude when it comes
to its lawns. If you dont believe us, try sitting on a azienki
lawn and see what happens. That said, the park has recently
added two zones where youre allowed to have a picnic.
Progress!QG-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28,
www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Open from dawn till dusk.
MUSEUM OF HUNTING AND HORSEMANSHIP
(MUZEUM OWIECTWA I JEDZIECTWA)
North of the Palace on the Island, the Museum of Hunt-
ing & Horsemanship is worth a quick visit.QH-4, ul.
Szwoleerw 9, tel. (+48) 22 522 66 30, www.muzeum.
warszawa.pl. Open 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Tue; From
May Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admis-
sion 3-8/2-5z. Thu free.
MYLEWICKI PALACE (PAAC MYLEWICKI)
Make sure you have time too for a guided tour of the mag-
nicent, semi-circular and recently restored Mylewicki Pal-
ace. The residence of the kings nephew, Jzef Poniatowski,
the palace is very much as was complete with original
murals, furniture and art.QH-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48)
22 506 00 28, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Open 09:00
- 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00. Admission 6/4z. Thu free.
Guided tours in English 70z per group.
Wilanw azienki
THEATRE ON THE ISLAND (AMFITEATR)
Crossing the tail of the serpentine lake, follow the path that
leads along the embankment until you hit the Amphithe-
atre, also known as the Theatre on the Island. The theatre
hosts productions throughout the summer starting on
April 20, though unless you fancy seeing Henry V in Polish
these will hold little interest for foreign visitors. (There are
exceptions: ballet and contemporary dance performances
sometimes get put on here). It is enough just to admire the
setting before heading for one of the kitsch (one features
an enormous swan) but irresistible gondolas that ferry up
and down the lake starting from May 15. A short trip costs
8/6z per person, and trips depart throughout the day - you
may have to wait for the boat to ll up before the gondolier
sets o however.QG-4.
UJAZDOWSKI CASTLE (MUSEUM OF MODERN
ART/CSW) (CENTRUM SZTUKI WSPCZESNEJ
ZAMEK UJAZDOWSKI)
A castle of some description has been on found on this site
since the time of the Masovian Dukes (1300s), but the Ujaz-
dowski Castle we see today was completed in a baroque
style in 1730 for Stanisaw Herakliusz Lubomirski (it was
his bathhouse that later became the Palace on the Island
and gave azienki park its name). Ujazdowski survived two
centuries before being gutted by re during WWII, and was
indeed lucky to escape total destruction: the retreating Na-
into a palace during the years 1681-1696 under the su-
pervision of Agostino Locci to his own design. It is within
the central part of the palace where you will see the living
quarters of King Jan III Sobieski and his French queen con-
sort, Marie (or Marysieka as she was aectionately called
by Sobieski and still is by Poles today) in what is the original
part of the palace.
After Jan III Sobieskis death in 1696, his widow returned to
France and the palace through their sons became the prop-
erty of Elzbieta Sieniawska. She continued to develop the
palace most notably the two wings which were built in the
years 1720-1729. Sieniawska, like many of the subsequent
owners, honoured Sobieski by conserving much of the pal-
ace in memory of the victorious king. It was to become a
royal residence again in the early 1730s during the reign
of August II the Strong. Over the next two hundred years
the palace became the property of a succession of the
most important Polish families including the Czartoryskis,
Lubomirskis, Potockis and Branickis and each left their mark
as they expanded and developed the property. One of its
most enlightened residents was Stanislaw Kostka Potocki
who in the early 19th century, at a time when Poland as a
country ceased to exist because of the Russian/Prussian/
Austrian partition, made his collection of art and access to
the royal apartments of King Jan III Sobieski available to the
public. Keep an eye out for the words Cunctis patet ingres-
sus on the palace oor signifying that the palace and its
collection were open to all.
zis actually tried to blow it to pieces, as they did a number
of azienkis nest buildings. But - as is so often the case
- what the Nazis couldnt do the communists could, and
though the original walls and foundations remained struc-
turally sound in the 1950s Polands communist authorities
decided to tear down the shell of the building and place
a military theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed
however, and the 1970s saw Ujazdowski rebuilt to its origi-
nal plans. It today plays host to three large exhibition halls
dedicated to showcasing the very best of contemporary art
inside; nd a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly,
featuring the work of Polands leading contemporary artists
here. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery also
houses a very good bookshop and a caf, which has a ter-
race whose views over the park, Warsaw and what appears
to be half of Poland are jaw dropping. One not to miss.QG-
4, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64 08, www.csw.art.pl.
Open 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6z,
Thu free. U
WHITE HOUSE & ORANGERY
(BIAY DOM I STARA POMARACZARNIA)
Not quite as grand as the Belvedere but equally impressive
is the little White House a gorgeous summer house built
in 1774 for the kings sisters which displays a ne collection
of period furniture and decorations. It is open for visitors
from April 15 and the price of admission is 6/4z. A few
steps away is the impressive Old Orangery, one of very
few surviving court theatres in the world. It dates from 1774
and is still used today to host chamber concerts, as well
as being a popular wedding venue for Warsaws wealthy.
Part of the building houses a museum of sculpture. From
here head back past the White House, resist the temptation
to head straight for the Palace on the Island and instead
head south, towards the New Orangery. Built in cast iron
and glass it was designed by Jzef Orowski and opened
in 1861. It is home to the upmarket Belvedere restaurant,
which is closed for the season until June 2014.QG-4,
ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28, www.lazienki-
krolewskie.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00.
Orangery admission 10/5z. Thu free. Guided tours in
English 70z per group.
The Wilanw Palace Museum, author: Magdalena Kulpa
GETTING TO WILANW
The Palace and Gardens at Wilanow can be reached
best of all by bus or taxi directly from the city cen-
tre. The citys metro system does run to a stop called
Wilanowska but this is about 5km from the palace and
will involve taking a bus from outside of the station.
BY BUS
From Old Town:
From (B-2) Pl. Zamkowy take buses 116 or 180. Journey
takes about 35 minutes.
From Pl. Trzech Krzyy:
From (C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyy take buses 116, 180 or E-2.
Journey takes about 25 minutes. The bus stops can be
found at the southern end of the square on Al. Ujaz-
dowskie.
From the centre:
From (B-4) outside the Cepelia store on Marszakowska
take bus 519.
From Warszawa Centralna train station:
Take bus 519 or 700 from the southbound stop on (A-
4) ul. Chaubiskiego. Journey takes about 30 minutes.
All buses stop directly outside the palace gates.
It is very easy to visit Warsaw and imagine its history
stretches no further back than the communist post-war
era and that of WWII when the city was eectively wiped
from the map of Europe. But that would be to only under-
stand a small part of this citys and countrys history. The
nations capital has been in Warsaw since the late 16th
century and at one time was the centre of the burgeoning
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, a union which lasted
over 200 years and whose territory at once stretched from
the Baltic to the Black Sea (incorporating much of modern
day Poland, Ukraine, Belarus and the Baltic States). With so
much of pre-war Warsaw destroyed there are few places
to experience what this must have been like more than at
Wilanows palace and gardens.
The Polish Versailles is just one of the many tting monikers
applied to this splendid late 17th-century Palace which can
be found in the Warsaw district of Wilanw, 10 kilometres
south of the city centre. Essential visiting for all who come
to soak up the capitals lavish culture and wish to under-
stand a little more about ancient Poland, Wilanw is more
than just a Palace - it represents an era from which much
has been lost. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble
of buildings represent the height of Polish Baroque and this
is one of Polands greatest national treasures.The sprawling
45-hectare setting is also full of things to do, from visiting
the superb Poster Museum next door to renting a rowing
boat on the Palaces lake. If the weathers good and youve
got time to spare, its easy to spend an entire and thorough-
ly rewarding day here.
HISTORY
Wilanw gets its name from the Warsaw borough in which
Wilanw Palace is located. First mentioned in the 13th cen-
tury as Milanw, the then tiny village changed hands sev-
eral times before being bought in the 17th century by the
family of Stanisaw Leszczyski. Leszczyski began building
a Palace here, but the project was halted by the Deluge and
the subsequent capture and plundering of the region by
the Swedes. In 1676 the abandoned Milanw was bought
by King Jan III Sobieski looking for a country retreat away
from Warsaw, and he ordered a new Palace to be built on
the site. Originally called Villa Nova (New Village), the name
was soon polonised to the one its known by today. A brick
manor house was built in 1680, expanding in two stages
Wilanw Wilanw
The palace avoided the fate of the city of Warsaw and sur-
vived the war virtually intact although its collections were
seriously looted. Conscated by Polands post-war Com-
munist government, Wilanw became part of the National
Museum in Warsaw and was painstakingly renovated dur-
ing the 1950s and early 1960s, opening its doors to the
public again in 1962. Today it is the subject of a 32 million
zloty revitalisation program which is overseeing conser-
vation work in the royal apartments and archaeological
research of the area. The gardens have also recently been
restored to the splendour they enjoyed during Jan III So-
bieskis time.
PARK & GARDENS
The 45 hectares that make up Wilanw Park grew over the
centuries according to the particular fancies of its owners.
The Parks present form dates from the extensive and mostly
faithful renovations made during the 1950s, overseen by the
architect and historian Professor Gerard Cioek (1909-1966).
Made up of a series of individual gardens, the Park includes
a two-level Baroque garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose gar-
den, a classical English landscaped park and the so called
English-Chinese landscape park. The nearby Orangery and
its garden serves as a splendid venue for outdoor classical
music concerts during the summer season. The park near
the Orangery, East, North and Rose gardens and their associ-
ated architecture were recently the subject of a major revit-
alisation program and during work on the Baroque garden
a series of archaeological digs discovered several artefacts,
including ceramics dating from the 12th century. Now the
gardens have been restored to their appearance during the
time of King Jan III Sobieski.Q. Open from 09:00 till dusk.
Admission 5/3z, Thu free. Note that an obligatory 0z
ticket is still required on Thursdays. Really.
POSTER MUSEUM (MUZEUM PLAKATU)
Housed inside the Palaces former indoor riding area, the
Poster Museum features two large halls full of wonder-
ful posters from all over the world. At over 55,000 pieces,
this is reportedly the largest poster collection to be found
JAN III SOBIESKI
Jan Sobieski was born in
Olesko near Lwow (now
Ukrainian Lviv) in 1629. His
father was a Polish-Lithuani-
an nobleman who ensured
young Jan and his brother
received a rst class education and they both went onto
study at the Jagiellonian University in Krakow before Jan
travelled abroad. He studied military history and tactics
including signicantly as it would turn out in Turkey (as
an envoy of King Jan II Casimir) where he learned the
Tartar language in the 1650s. Sobieski also spoke French,
German and Italian and during this time met major Euro-
pean political gures including Louis II deBourbon, Wil-
liam of Orange and Charles II, where it is clear that he
learnt the value of diplomacy as well as military might.
Jan Sobieski would have a lifelong love of France
thanks in part to his French wife Marie (or Marysienka
as he fondly named her) whom he married in 1665 and
fathered 14 children with (of whom 8 survived).
Having returned to Poland Sobieski went on to serve
with distinction in the Battle of Warsaw (1656), where
he led a Tartar cavalry regiment, and the Polish Swed-
ish wars (1655-1660) among others. In 1666 he sided
with the king Micha Korybut Winiowiecki during the
Lubormirski rebellion and added another major victory
to his list by defeating the Turks at the Battle of Chocim
in 1673. It was this victory allied to his reputation as a
strong leader, astute military tactician and a canny po-
litical knack that would result in him being elected as
Polish King the following year, in 1674.
Sobieski inherited a nation virtually penniless from 50
years of continuous war and set about stabilising the
countrys borders through treaties and strategic battles.
It is for this combination of wisdom and bravery that he
is well remembered today.
Sobieskis greatest moment, however, was to come in
1683. Having marched through most of the Balkans a
vast Turkish army was massed on the outskirts of Vien-
na threatening to overwhelm the Christian world. Led
by King Jan III Sobieski a joint Polish/German/Austrian
army scored a magnicent victory in a daylong battle
on 12 September 1683 vanquishing the Turks. Sobieski
led a charge of Polish hussars breaking the opposition
lines and sending the Turks into disarray. Sobieski en-
tered the abandoned tent of the Turkish commander
Kara Mustapha in the early evening signifying vic-
tory and parts of that tent are today on display within
Wilanow Palace. The Turks were to name Sobieski The
Lion of Lechistan (Lechistan being an ancient name of
Poland) while Danzig astronomer Johannes Hevelius
would name a newly discovered constellation Scutum
Sobiescianum (Sobieskis Shield) after him, quite an ac-
colade for a still living, non-astronomer as was Sobieski.
THE WILANW PALACE
MUSEUM
THE WILANW PALACE MUSEUM (MUZEUM
PAACU KRLA JANA III W WILANOWIE)
The rst museum at Wilanw was opened in 1805 by
the palaces owner at the time, Stanisaw Kostka Po-
tocki. The current museum, which takes up a substan-
tial portion of the Palaces interior, comes in two parts.
Having bought your ticket in the ticket o ce near the
gate, enter the wing on the right and descend the
stairs. Heading through a small room containing some
old royal coaches, head up the stairs into the rst part
of the museum - The Polish Portrait Gallery - featur-
ing portraits from the 16th to 19th century. Wander
through room after room of portraits of the rich and
the powerful including some fascinating Polish co n
portraits of important gures. If portraits are your thing
you will nd this very interesting although the lack of
description and in some cases even the name of the
people portrayed is rather frustrating.
The tour leads you around the top of the house and then
downstairs once more where you will nd yourself in
the residence of the palace. Featuring suits of armour,
Etruscan vases, a room featuring magnicent frescoes
uncovered during restoration work after the war, resi-
dential rooms, an exceedingly rare 18th-century glass
grandfather clock and even a private chapel there is a
lot to admire. The central part of the lower oor is the
most impressive. It is here that you will nd the private
apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife while the
wings house the apartments of the subsequent own-
ers of the palace. It is quite easy to spend a couple of
hours wandering around the palace but be warned that
it tends to ll with schoolchildren during the week and
tourists at the weekends so theres not really a best time
to visit.Qul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27
00, www.wilanow-palac.pl. Open 09:30 - 16:00, Sun
10:30 - 16:00. Closed Tue. From April 28 open 09:30 -
16:00, Mon 09:30 - 20:00; Wed, Sat 09:30 - 18:00, Sun
10:30 - 18:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Admission 20/15z, Sun free, but you must obtain an
obligatory ticket for 0z (were unfortunately not kid-
ding). Audioguide (available in English, French, Ger-
man, Italian, Russian and Spanish) 12z. YU
The Wilanw Palace Museum, author: Zbigniew Reszka
anywhere. The museum focuses on the artistic merits of
the posters rather than their documentary value and plays
host to a cycle of temporary events and exhibitions. As
a contrast to the historic palace and collection of paint-
ings next door, this makes for interesting additional place
to visit while in Wilanw.Qul. S. K. Potockiego 10/16,
tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.postermuseum.pl. Open
10:00 - 16:00, Mon 12:00 - 16:00. From May open 10:00
- 16:00, Mon 12:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/7z,
Mon free.
POTOCKI MAUSOLEUM
(MAUZOLEUM POTOCKICH)
A tomb dedicated to Stanisaw Kostka Potocki and his
wife Aleksandra (nee Lubomirska) Potocka by their son
Aleksander. Designed in 1834 by Henryk Marconi and built
between 1834-1836 by Jakub Tatarkiewicz and Konstanty
Hegl, the mausoleum is made entirely of sandstone. It is
located in the park leading to Wilanw Palace and consists
of a Neo-Gothic canopy with lions holding shields bearing
the crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski families in each
corner. On the sarcophagus are the gures of the deceased
and around the sides symbols of their virtues and interests
are displayed.QWilanw Park.
ST. ANNES CHURCH (KOCI W. ANNY)
A church on this site dates back to the 14th century when
the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here. This was
replaced by a Gothic wooden construction and graveyard
in the 16th century and it wasnt replaced with a brick one
until well after the time of Jan III Sobieski in 1772. The new
church was called St. Annes and was founded by Prince
August Adam Czartoryski to a design by Jan Kotelnicki.
Czartoryskis grand-daughter, Aleksandra Lubormirska Po-
tocka, decorated the church with art in the period 1799-
1831, the most precious of which is the Annunciation to
the Virgin Mary in the main altar.
Between 1857 and 1870, Aleksandras son August and his
wife extend the church to a design by Henri Marconi. The
church gets a Neo-Renaissance look and the marvellous
dome is added. In the gardens surrounding the church
building you will nd terracotta shrines marking the four-
teen Stations of the Cross while within the church, in the
crypt under the chapel, are the tombs of the Potocki family.
The church suered damage during both world wars and
was even used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who
also looted and damaged it. The church bells dating from
1723 and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local
people who hid them and these are now housed in the
newly built Third Millenium Tower.
The church is a particularly beautiful one to visit nowadays
thanks in no small part to the work of the parish priest
Bogusaw Bijak and it is protected as part of a complex of
parks, buildings and original roads running into the centre
of the city as a national Historic Memorial.Qul. Kolegiacka
1, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafawilanow.pl. Open
08:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00 No visiting during mass
please.
Jewish Warsaw Jewish Warsaw
of their boltholes by amethrowers and gas. On May 8 Ger-
man forces surrounded the principal command post of the
rebels on ul. Mia 18 and rather than face capture Aniele-
wicz and his cabal opted for mass suicide.
By May 16 the Uprising was over, with German commander
Jurgen Stroop announcing, The former Jewish quarter of
Warsaw is no longer in existence. With the ghting over
the rest of the ghetto was levelled, and its inmates either
sent to Treblinka or assigned to Gsiwka (ul. Gsia), a small
concentration camp. It is estimated that some 15,000 Jews
survived the war hiding out on the Aryan side, but with the
war over and the vitriolic anti-Zionist policies of the post-
war government the majority sought a new life in Israel.
Today Warsaws Jewish population is estimated to stand
at 2,000 and eorts are underway to gradually reintroduce
the citys hollowed out Jewish culture.
HEROES IN HORROR
Sometimes it takes tragedy to create heroes. This is never
truer than with the Holocaust, a black time where Nazi ter-
ror was answered with dignity and courage. Anti-Semitism
was common in pre-war Poland (in fact so clear was this di-
vide that the inter-war years saw seated segregation in such
grand institutions as the local university) and under Nazi
occupation collaboration was commonplace - denouncing
Jews and revealing hiding places brought considerable -
nancial reward. Worse still, there were several instances of
Poles actively taking part in pogroms and Jew hunts, the
most notorious occurring in the town of Jedwabne in 1941.
It was here on the 10th of July that a mob of Poles rounded
up nearly 400 Jews and marched them to a barn which
was subsequently torched. Its a shameful episode in Polish
history, and one immortalised in Jan Grosss book Neigh-
bours. Nevertheless, such events should be oset by stories
of those who risked life and limb to help the persecuted.
Poland was at the forefront of Nazi terror, and the punish-
ment for sheltering Jews was death. The policy was unique
in the occupied territories, and ruthlessly enforced. Even so,
it is estimated that over three million Poles actively helped
Jews to survive and Yad Vashem has recognised over 6,000
Poles as being Righteous Among Nations - more than in
any other country.
From the beginning conditions in the city were harsh; re-
covered Nazi les show that while ethnic Germans were
granted a food allowance totaling 2,613 calories per day,
Jews and other groups deemed sub-human were expect-
ed to survive on 184 calories. Unsurprisingly a black mar-
ket supported by a smuggling network ran rife, with some
80 percent of the food in the ghetto supplied through ille-
gal means. Still it was not enough and as the noose tight-
ened starvation became the principal enemy. In 1941 over
100,000 died in this way, their bodies often left to rot in
the streets. Of the 800 ghettos scattered around the Third
Reich Warsaw was the largest and also the deadliest. At its
zenith approximately 380,000 residents found themselves
squashed into the ghetto, with an average of eight people
to a room. Yet amid this sea of suering a remarkable so-
cial scene ourished, as proved by the meticulous ghetto
diaries kept by Emanuel Ringelblum. Although murdered
by the Nazis in 1944, Ringelblum, an intellectual and social
activist, kept volumes of notes documenting the day-to-
day life of ghetto inhabitants. It is from his painstaking
notes we learn of the soup kitchens and charities that ex-
isted, of the musical concerts and cabarets and the fty or
so underground newspapers that circulated amongst the
masses.
The illusion of a self-contained, cruel, but surviving parallel
world was shattered in 1942 when the Wansee Conference
rubber-stamped plans for the nal solution to the Jewish
question and the rst deportations to death camps began
in July. Over the next few weeks around 265,000 Jews were
harried to a waiting area known as Umschlagplatz, from
which they were loaded into cattle wagons destined for
the Treblinka gas chambers. A year later a new action to
thin the ghetto was launched, and by April 1943 a nal
push to completely liquidate the biggest ghetto began. For
too long the Jews had been limited to passive resistance,
but now, with rumours circulating about death camps, a
band of ill-equipped insurgents faced up to the full weight
of the Nazi military machine. Led by Mordechaj Aniele-
wicz, the Jewish Fighting Organization (OB) launched the
Ghetto Uprising on April 19, 1943. Numbering a few hun-
dred the Jewish ghters continued their dogged resistance,
but faced with heavy artillery and even Stuka Dive Bombers
it was a doomed struggle. Vicious street-to-street, house-
to-house battles ensued, with insurgents often burnt out
Collection of Shalom Foundation by Goda Tencer - Szurmiej
Collection of Shalom Foundation by Goda Tencer - Szurmiej
At the time Hitler chose to expand Germanys territories
under the odious excuse of providing living space for the
German people, Warsaws Jewish population numbered
350,000 and growing. Neither pogroms nor the occasional
boycott of Jewish businesses deterred Jews from settling
in the Polish capital and only New York could boast a larger
Jewish community. Yet within six years Warsaws thriving
Jewish scene was all but wiped from the map, with over 90
percent perishing either in the Ghetto or the gas chambers
of Treblinka.
Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare Poland was
seen as a relative safe haven, and it drew settlers forced
into ight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By
the inter-war years the Jewish population had made sig-
nicant contributions to the social, political and cultural
fabric of Poland, a contribution that would eventually be
extinguished by the monstrous racial policies of the Nazis.
When Warsaw fell following a brief yet brutal siege the
citys ancient Jewish population was damned to destruc-
tion. By 1940 Jews were forcibly penned into an area that
already housed most of the Jewish population. On March
27, 1940, the Judenrat, a Jewish council answerable to the
Nazis whims, was ordered to build a wall around the ghetto
and a resettlement deadline of October 15 was handed to
the citys Jews. Failure to move into the assigned area was
punishable by death. Spanning 18 kilometres and enclos-
ing 73 of Warsaws 1,800 streets, the area was carved into a
small and large ghetto, the two linked by a wooden bridge
standing over ul. Chodna (E-2). Today an installation titled
Footbridge of Memory stands at this spot, with optical
bres illuminating the former handrails over the street at
night.
In Rozwadow Dr. Eugeniusz Lazowski, a graduate of
Warsaw University, is credited with saving approximately
8,000 Jews after putting his medical knowledge to use.
Having injected the towns Jews with a benign form of
typhus he then informed the Nazis that an epidemic was
at large. Terried that it would spread, the Nazis quaran-
tined the town and left it to its own devices. Known as the
Polish Schindler, Lazowski saved 12 ghetto communities
in this crafty manner. I was not able to ght with a gun
or a sword, Lazowski said. But I was able to nd a way to
scare the Germans. In Krakw a gentile pharmacist named
Tadeusz Pankiewicz was given special permission to re-
main in the ghetto and exploited this to lend aid to the
Jews. Medicine and vaccines were distributed for free,
and his pharmacy - now a museum - came to double as
a centre of underground activity. Regarded as a hero, Pan-
kiewiczs role in the Holocaust is remembered in Thomas
Kenneallys epic Schindlers Ark.
Another doctor, Irena
Sendler, is credited
with rescuing over 2,500
Jews from the Warsaw
ghetto. Born in 1910,
Sendler had a long
history of sympathis-
ing with the plight of
the Jews and was sus-
pended for three years
from Warsaw Univer-
sity after voicing her
vociferous opposition
to segregated benches
and was active in the
underground the moment the war broke out. Aided by
her colleagues she forged over 3,000 documents to help
Jewish families, and later headed the childrens section
of Zegota - a secret organisation that was a Council to
Aid Jews. Using the erce-looking court building on
Solidarnosci as her bridge from the ghetto to freedom
she smuggled countless children inside parcels and
boxes. The children were then sent to live in convents
and rectories, but not before she recorded their identi-
ties in a glass jar she kept buried at home. Her actions
aroused the attention of the Gestapo, and in 1943 she
was arrested, tortured and sentenced to death. A bribe
from Zegota saved her life, but nonetheless she was left
unconscious in a forest, with both her arms and legs bro-
ken. She was o cially declared dead by the Germans,
and spent the rest of the war in hiding. But even peace
brought no respite; she was persecuted by the commu-
nist authorities on account of her wartime relations with
the exiled government, and faced constant harassment.
In 2003 Pope John Paul II sent her a letter praising her for
courage, and later that year she was awarded the Order
of the White Eagle - Polands highest civilian decoration.
She died in 2008, though even now remains a target of
hate for some; in July 2010 her grave was vandalised with
the words Jews Out.
Warsaw Uprising Jewish Warsaw
Finally, Jan Karski is remembered in the history books
as the man who tried to stop the Holocaust. Born in
d in 1914, Karskis photographic memory and fluent
command of foreign languages caught the attention of
the Polish diplomatic services, landing him prestigious
posts abroad. With Europe gearing up for war Karski
joined the horse artillery, with his unit captured by the
Red Army. Karski avoided death in the forests of Katy
when he escaped from a train transporting him to a
POW camp and headed to Warsaw to join the Polish
underground. Realising the value of his remarkable
memory his superiors employed Karski as a courier, a
perilous position that involved crossing frontlines in
order to swap information with allies. One such foray
saw him captured by the Gestapo while crossing the
Slovakian Tatra Mountains. He slit his wrists following
an intense bout of torture, and was locked in a closely
guarded hospital in Nowy Sacz. Determined not to lose
their star courier a crack team of Polish troops broke
him out and Karski resumed his duties. In 1942 he was
chosen to undertake a daring mission to meet Wlady-
slaw Sikorski - Prime Minister of Polands government-
in-exile - in London, the purpose being to reveal the ex-
tent of German atrocities in occupied Poland. To gather
information he was smuggled into the Warsaw ghetto
and given a graphic tour of the hunger and horror
manifesting behind the walls. The experience proved
so powerful that Karski later found himself question-
ing his own memory and decided a second visit was in
order to convince him that what he had seen was real.
This time, disguised as a Ukrainian guard, he infiltrated
a transit camp in Izbica and witnessed random brutali-
ties as well as cattle wagon transports leading Jews to
the gas chambers. He successfully made it to England
and was granted an audience with foreign secretary
Antony Eden as well as Sikorski and the leader of the
Jewish Bun. Maddeningly, his testimonies fell on deaf
ears. In the following decades his attempt to stop the
Holocaust was allowed to gather dust, and only came
to public attention with the release of the 1978 epic
film Shoah. He died in 2000, eight years after his Jew-
ish/Polish wife, herself a Holocaust survivor, commit-
ted suicide.
WHAT TO SEE
A FOOTBRIDGE OF MEMORY
One of the most recognisable images of the Warsaw
Ghetto is that of the footbridge constructed over ul.
Chodna to connect the large and small ghettos. To
commemorate that spot is one of Warsaws newest
memorials: a pair of metal poles connected via opti-
cal fibers which, after the sun sets, project the shape
of the footbridge over the road via light. Designed by
Tomasz Tusch-Lec and installed in September 2011, the
memorial also has viewing windows inside the poles
where visitors can flip through images of life in the War-
saw Ghetto.QD-2, Intersection of ul. Chodna and ul.
elazna.
inch. A German demand for surrender on September 14th
was rejected, and in spite of claims of triumph in the Ger-
man press the city fought on, civilians and military alike join-
ing together in a desperate attempt to ward o the invaders.
Warsaws fate, and indeed Polands, was sealed days later
on the 17th of September when the Soviets invaded from
the east thereby fullling their part in the Nazi/Soviet
Molotov-Ribbentrop pact. Even so, with the odds stacked
against them, the Poles continued the ght on two fronts,
with segments of Chopin aired every 30 seconds by radio
to let the outside world know that Warsaw was still Polish.
However the human cost was starting to mount; the mer-
ciless bombardment had claimed the lives of over 50,000
Varsovians, the Royal Castle lay in ruins, and supplies of
food, power and water had reached critical levels. With
Allied aid not forthcoming, and a humanitarian disaster
looming large, the capital nally raised the white ag on
September 28th. To bring the Polish heroics into perspec-
tive, Paris, defended by the largest standing army in the
world, took just nine days to fall.
OCCUPATION
Hitler arrived in Warsaw for his one and only visit to the Polish
capital on October 5th, inspecting a victory parade on (C-4) Al.
Ujazdowskie before scuttling o for a reception at the Belvedere
Palace. If his pre-war rants hadnt been ominous enough, the
Polish public were about to learn just what a nutcase this man
really was. The Fuhrers verdict on the Poles is damning,wrote
Goebbels shortly after Hitlers stopover. More like animals than
human beings, completely primitive, stupid and amorphous.
Hitler carved Poland into pieces - parts were annexed into
the Reich, other areas - Warsaw included - found them-
selves under the General Government of Hans Frank, an
expert chess player and fanatical Nazi: If I had to put up
a poster for every seven Poles I shot, the forests of Poland
would not be su cient to manufacture the paper, he is
said to have bragged. His rule was textbook despot, both
brutal and bloody, and it was under his suggestion that
Ludwig Fischer was appointed governor of Warsaw, a post
he would hold right until 1945. Fischer was more bureau-
crat than butcher, yet nonetheless it was under his author-
ity that Warsaw became a city of blood.
Insurgents charge into battle
Into captivity
August 1, 1944. Warsaw, subject to ve years of fascist he-
gemony, rose up in popular rebellion in what would go on
to be recorded as the largest ever uprising in the German
occupied territories. With German morale in ribbons, a re-
treat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army already
on the east bank of the Wisa, no time seemed better than
the present. Following close contact with the Polish gov-
ernment-in-exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home
Army (Polands wartime military movement a.k.a the Armii
Krajowy or AK) launched a military strike with the aim of
liberating Warsaw and installing an independent govern-
ment.
During the event the Red Army made no concerted at-
tempt to help the Poles, while promises of Allied support
proved largely empty. As for the Nazi hierarchy, they re-
acted with blind rage to this stroke of Polish insolence, and
what ensued was an epic 63 day struggle during which the
Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler. The most notori-
ous chapter of Warsaws history was about to be written.
OUTBRE AK OF WAR
At 4:45am on September 1, 1939, shots were red from
German gun emplacements positioned inside the light-
house at Danzig Neufahrwasser, found in what was then
known as the Free City of Danzig (today Gdansk). The ob-
ject of the aggression was the military garrison stationed
on the Polish controlled Westerplatte Peninsula, and
within minutes the German battleship Schleswig Holstein
joined the bombardment, inadvertently kicking o a con-
ict that would last six years and cost 55 million lives.
Approximately an hour after Westerplatte the capital it-
self came under aerial bombardment; waves of Stuka dive
bombers swooped on the capital in what can only be de-
scribed as one of the worlds rst ever terror bombings -
hospitals, schools and market places were all deemed legiti-
mate targets, while columns of eeing refugees were strafed
from the air. Within a week German land forces had reached
the city limits, though any thoughts of a swift lightning
victory were quickly rebued. An opening tank assault on
Ochota was fended o, with the Germans losing 80 tanks
from an attacking force of 220. Spurred on by the stirring
broadcasts of Warsaw Mayor Stefan Starzynski the defend-
ers dug in for siege, ghting street by street and inch for
JEWISH HISTORICAL INSTITUTE
(YDOWSKI INSTYTUT HISTORYCZNY IM.
EMANUELA RINGELBLUMA)
A chilling recollection of Polish Jewry and the only institu-
tion in Poland focusing entirely on the study of the history
and culture of the Polish Jews. This amazing building houses
permanent and temporary exhibits relating to secular and
religious Jewish life in the country from its beginnings to the
annihilation during WWII and beyond. As well as an excellent
bookshop, the institutes museum, opened in 1948, features
a large interactive display in the entrance hall that allows its
users to nd out about Jewish life in any part of the country.
They are several temporary exhibits on the Warsaw Ghetto
including a documentary in 4 languages. Essential visiting.
QB-2, ul. Tomackie 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.
pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Last
entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5z.
MONUMENT TO THE GHETTO HEROES
(POMNIK BOHATERW GETTA)
Designed by Natan Rappaport, the monument pays tribute
to the heroes of the Ghetto Uprising of 1943. Found be-
tween (E-1) ul. Anielewicza, Zamenhofa, Lewartowskiego
and Karmelicka it is here that the heaviest ghting took
place. In an ironic quirk, the stone cladding on the monu-
ment was originally ordered from Sweden by Hitler for a
victory arch.QA-1, ul. Zamenhofa.
NOYK SYNAGOGUE (SYNAGOGA NOYKW)
Built between 1898 and 1902 in a neo-Romanesque style,
this was the only Warsaw synagogue to survive the ravages
of war. It was fully restored between 1977 and 1983. Now
open for worship.QE-3, ul. Twarda 6, tel. (+48) 22 620 43
24, www.warszawa.jewish.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Fri
09:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat. No visiting
during services. Groups of more than ten should reserve
in advance. Admission 6z. N
OKOPOWA STREET JEWISH CEMETERY
(CMENTARZ YDOWSKI)
A beautiful and poignant place to visit. The cemetery was
originally founded in 1806 and currently houses around
250,000 tombs. Amongst those buried here are Ludwik Za-
menhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto.
QD-1, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.
beisolam.jewish.org.pl. Open from 10:00 till dusk, Fri
09:00 - 13:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission 8z.
TRACES OF THE GHETTO
Following the Ghetto Uprising the whole area was levelled
so few traces remain. If you duck into the courtyard at (E-
3) ul. Sienna 55 you will see a remaining part of the ghetto
wall complete with a commemorative plaque. Somewhat
impressively, the local government have decided to honour
Warsaws Holocaust history by introducing a ghetto trail. De-
veloped with the help of the Jewish Historical Institute the
route has seen the boundary of the former Ghetto outlined
on pavements, as well as the appearance of 21 dual language
information boards positioned in places of particular interest.
Warsaw Uprising Warsaw Uprising
veterans who survived were treated with suspicion and dis-
dain by the newly installed communist government, others
were persecuted for perceived western sympathies. Post-
war Soviet show trials convicted 13 leaders of the Uprising
for anti-Soviet actions, and thereafter the Uprising was con-
demned as a folly to serve the bourgeois ends of the Pol-
ish government-in-exile. Today, nally, the event that has
come to dene the spirit of Warsaw, has been awarded the
recognition it deserves.
Freedom came out against slavery. The ame of the Uprising
remained in peoples hearts and souls. It was passed on by the
baton of the generations. The spirit proved indestructible and
immortal. Soldiers of the Rising. You did not die in vain.
Lech Walesa, 1994
UPRISING MUSEUM
WARSAW UPRISING MUSEUM
(MUZEUM POWSTANIA WARSZAWSKIEGO)
Opened in 2004, this remains one of Polands best mu-
seums. Packed with interactive displays, photographs,
video footage and miscellaneous exhibits its a museum
thats guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. Occu-
pying a former tram power station the 2,000m2 space
is split over several levels, leading visitors through the
chronological story of the Uprising (provided
they dont make any wrong turns, alas, a common mis-
take).
Start o by learning about life under Nazi rule, your
tour accompanied by the background rattle of machine
guns, dive bombers and a thumping heartbeat. Dier-
ent halls focus on the many aspects of the Uprising;
walk through a replica radio station, or a covert print-
ing press.
The mezzanine level features lm detailing the rst
month of battle, before which visitors get to clamber
through a mock sewer. The nal sections are devoted to
the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remem-
brance, and a particularly poignant display about the
destruction of the city; take time to watch the black
and white before and after shots of important Warsaw
landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Na-
zis as punishment.
Near the exit check out the lm City of Ruins,a silence-
inducing 5 minute 3-D aerial lm which took 2 years
to make and used old pictures and new technology to
recreate a picture of the desolation of liberatedWarsaw
in March 1945.
There is also an exact replica of a B24 Allied plane once
used to make supply drops over the besieged city. A
viewing platform and peace garden wrap up this
high impact experienceQD-3, ul. Grzybowska 79,
tel. (+48) 22 539 79 33, www.1944.pl. Open 08:00
- 18:00, Thu 08:00 - 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Tue. Admission 14/10z (children under 7
free). Sun free. Audio guides for 10z per person. Film
costs 2z per person. U
Luftwae v Warsaw
The racial politics of the Reich were pursued with active
intent, with whole swathes of the city set aside for Ger-
mans only. The largest Ghetto the world has ever seen was
constructed to the north, and Warsaw was marginalized
in importance and earmarked as a town whose true pur-
pose would be to soak up refugees expelled from Aryan
territories to the west. Chopin disappeared from his plinth,
Copernicus and his statue were awarded German identity,
and the Polish community alienated from their own city.
Daily rations were set to 669 calories (184 for Jews), and
its estimated that a quarter of the population were only
saved from starvation by the appearance of emergency
soup kitchens. But worse was to follow; from 1943 the
Gestapo were granted carte blanche to shoot people on
mere suspicion of wrongdoing, and street roundups and
public executions became a daily occurrence. This wasnt
so much a city under occupation as a city under tyranny.
THE UPRISING
With such a malignant machine in force its little surprise Po-
land gave birth to Europes largest resistance movement. Even
still, with the war moving towards its closing stages it was far
from obvious that the resistance would abandon its partisan
tactics and launch a bona de military assault on the Nazis.
By July 1944 the Red Army led by Marshal Rokossovsky had
reached the Wisla, and on July 22 a panicked Fischer ordered
the evacuation of German civilians from Warsaw; sensitive pa-
pers were torched and destroyed, trains screeched westwards
to Berlin and all the signs suggested liberation was but days
away. German intelligence was aware that an uprising was
possible, yet nothing seemed clear cut. Fischers appeals for
100,000 Poles to present themselves to work on anti-tank de-
fences were ignored, as were broadcasts reminding the Poles
of their heroic battle against Bolshevism in 1923. Tensions in-
creased with Red Army leaet drops urging Varsovians to arms,
and were further exacerbated on July 30th with a Soviet radio
announcement declaring, People of the capital! To arms! Strike
at the Germans! May your million strong population become
a million soldiers, who will drive out the German invaders and
win freedom. Still, like boxers prowling the ring, each side ap-
peared locked in a waiting game, so much so that German
military despatches on the afternoon of August 1, 1944 con-
cluded with, Warschau ist kalm.Warsaw was anything but.
On orders from General Tadeusz Bor Komorowski 5pm
signalled W-Hour (Wybuch standing for outbreak), the
precise time when some 40,000 members of the Home
Army would attack key German positions. Warsaw at the
time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any
numerical supremacy the Poles could count on was oset
by a chronic lack of arms, and a complete dearth of heavy
armour. Nonetheless the element of surprise caught the
Germans o guard, and in spite of heavy losses the Poles
captured a string of strategic targets, including the old
town, Prudential Tower (then the tallest building in Po-
land), and the post o ce. The rst day had cost the lives of
2,000 Poles, yet for the rst time since occupation the Polish
ag uttered once more over the capital.
Yet in spite of these initial successes their remained several
concerns. Polish battle groups were spread across the city,
and many had failed to link up as planned. More worry-
ingly, several objectives had been met with disaster - the
police district around (G-4) Al. Szucha remained rmly in
German hands, even more importantly, so did the airport.
Hitler, meanwhile, was roused out of his torpor, screaming
for No prisoners to be taken, and Every inhabitant to be
shot.
Within days German reinforcements started pouring in, and
on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the
western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, wom-
en and children in what would become one of the most
savage episodes of the Uprising. Indeed, it was to prove a
mixed rst week for the Poles. In liberated areas, behind
the barricades, cultural life thrived - over 130 newspapers
sprang up, religious services were celebrated and a scout
run postal service introduced. Better still, the rst allied air
drops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out,
this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, un-
der the command of the Erich von dem Bach, replied with
heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks.
Even worse, the practice of using Polish women as human
shields was quickly introduced.
The insurgents were a mixed bag, featuring over 4,000
women in their ranks, a unit of Slovaks, scores of Jews liber-
ated from a Warsaw concentration camp, a platoon of deaf
and dumb volunteers led by an o cer called Yo Yo, and an
escaped English prisoner of war called John. Fantastically
ill-equipped, the one thing on their side was an almost sui-
cidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times
as high as those inicted on the Germans, yet the Poles
carried on the ght with stoic self-assurance. Air drops
were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though hopes
were scuppered with Stalins refusal to allow Allied planes
landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set
up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi
to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over
16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate - one
such mission concluding with 960 canisters out of a 1,000
falling into German hands. All hopes, it seemed, rested on
the Russians.
After six weeks of inaction Rokossovsky nally gave the go
ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the
river and relieve the insurgents. The operation was a de-
bacle, and with heavy casualties and no headway made the
assault was called o. For the Russians, this single attempt
at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own.
Already by this time the situation in Warsaws old town,
defended by 8,000 Poles, had become untenable, and a
daring escape route was hatched through the sewers run-
ning under the city. The Germans were now free to focus
on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, a task
undertaken with glee and armour. Six hundred millimetre
shells were landing on the centre every eight minutes, and
casualties were rising to alarming rates. Surrender negotia-
tions were initiated in early September, though it wasnt till
the end of the month - by which time all hope had been
exhausted - that they took a concrete shape. Abandoned
by her allies the Poles were forced to capitulate once more,
some 63 days after they had taken on the Reich. The battle
is nished, wrote a eulogy in the nal edition of the Infor-
mation Bulletin. From the blood that has been shed, from
the common toil and misery, from the pains of our bodies
and souls, a new Poland will arise - free.
AFTERMATH
Having deposited their weaponry at pre-designated sites,
11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity, de-
feated but proud. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian
lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles
would add a further 40,000 to the gure. Hitler was ecstatic;
with the Uprising out of the way his plan to raze Warsaw
could nally be realized. Remaining inhabitants were exiled
(though around 2,000 are believed to have seen the lib-
eration by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans set about
obliterating what was left of the city. No stone can remain
standing, warned Himmler, and what happened next can
only be described as the methodical and calculated mur-
der of a city. Buildings were numbered according to their
importance to Polish culture before being dynamited by
teams of engineers, while less historic areas were simply
burned to the ground. Nothing was spared the iconoclasm,
not even trees. I have seen many towns destroyed, ex-
claimed General Eisenhower after the war, But nowhere
have I been faced with such destruction.
Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around
fty four billion dollars. In human terms Poland lost much
more. With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very
foundation a new post-war Poland could build on. Those
Chopin Warsaw Uprising
RUINS OF THE RISING
Between 1939 and 1944 over 84 percent of Warsaw was
completely destroyed, with the city centre bearing the brunt
of the damage. In spite of the Herculean rebuilding work that
has since taken place, bullet scarred walls on pre-war tene-
ments can still be found in relative abundance round the few
parts of the centre that escaped total destruction. Perhaps
most obvious of all is the building on ul. Walicw, featuring
shell-pocked facades and a wall half-tumbling down.
SAPPER MONUMENT
(POMNIK CHWAA SAPEROM)
Designed by Stanisaw Kulon and unveiled on May 8th,
1975, the monument to the sappers is a typically formida-
ble piece of 70s brutalism. Designed to evoke the explosive
blast of a landmine this seventeen metre high monstrosity
commemorates the sappers who died defusing mines and
booby traps in the years after the war. Free Warsaw will
never forget those who, with their pain and blood, started
the work on her reconstruction reads the accompanying
plaque. The names and units of the sappers who died are
listed on the pylons, as well as Polish-language descrip-
tions of the hazardous work they undertook.QH-3, Park
Marszaka Edwarda migego-Rydza.
THE LITTLE INSURGENT MONUMENT
(POMNIK MAEGO POWSTACA)
The communist authorities continually thwarted eorts to
commemorate the Uprising, though by the early 80s cracks
in their resolve were beginning to show. On October 1, 1983,
the most poignant of all Uprising monuments was unveiled
by the walls of the Barbakan. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkie-
wicz and funded by collections undertaken by scouts, the
bronze installation shows the gure of a boy soldier clutch-
ing a Sten gun and weighed down by an adult-sized helmet.
Commemorating the children who served as messengers
and frontline troops, the gure is inspired by the story of 13
year old corporal Antek, himself killed in action close to the
scene on August 8, 1944.QB-2, ul. Podwale.
Old Town Square, 1945
Warsaw Uprising: Aug 1 - October 3
BIELASKI BANK
Few remnants of the Uprising are more conspicuous than
the hulking shell on ul. Bielaska. Its got quite a history.
The site was originally home to a mint, but that found itself
demolished to make way for the Warsaw division of the
Imperial Bank of Russia. Designed by Leontij Nikoajewicz
Benois, a rector of the Fine Arts Academy in St Petersburg,
construction began in 1907 and went on for a further four
years. Within another four years the Russians had left, the
collapse of the Empire seeing all Tsarist subjects head back
east with their tails between their legs. The Poles took over
the building, rst employing it as the National Treasury,
then establishing it as the headquarters of Bank Polski in
1926. The structure became a key strategic target during
the Warsaw Uprising, and on capture served as a base for
Polish insurgents. Smashed to pieces by German bombs
the building was left to rot in the decades that followed.
Originally slated to house the Warsaw Uprising Museum,
the bank was subject to legal wrangles that saw that idea
bite the dust. Recently Belgian property developer Ghelam-
co redeveloped the site as an o ce complex that opened
last fall. According to plans the six-oor building exposes
parts of the walls of the ancient mint.QB-2, ul. Bielaska
10.
EXECUTION SITES
The fall of communism brought with it a huge desire to
commemorate the Uprising, which had hitherto been
largely erased from Polish history by anti-nationalist
communist censors. Now memorial plaques and tablets
abound around Warsaw and though they tend to be in Pol-
ish only, it doesnt take long to get the hang of them; on
the whole theyll display the date and number of people
executed by the Nazis.Q.
MONUMENT TO THE WARSAW UPRISING
(POMNIK POWSTANIA WARSZAWSKIEGO)
It was only with the regime close to collapse that this un-
conventional, not to say controversial monument was un-
veiled. Completed in 1989 and designed by Wincent Kuc-
ma, it depicts a group of insurgents in battle, and another
faction retreating into the sewers.QB-2, Pl. Krasiskich.
2010 saw the country toast Chopin with champagne;
Polands greatest composer, and Warsaws favourite son,
a man whose lent his name to everything from vodka to
airports (and even an asteroid). For 2010 marked the 200th
anniversary of Fryderyk Chopins birth and saw the city cel-
ebrate his life with amongst other things the opening of a
fabulous new museum.
CHOPIN-LIFE & TIMES
And what a life it was. Of course, in the spirit of all the greats
theres a considerable element of mystery surrounding the
man. Say it very, very quietly, but theres even dispute as
to his birthday and parentage. Most sources agree he was
born on February 22, 1810, yet some claim his family could
be found celebrating his birth on March 1. At the time of
his death only Jane Stirling, his Scottish benefactor, claimed
to know the truth, and this she wrote on a piece of paper
before burying it with him. Furthermore, while most accept
he was the son of a French expatriate some experts argue
he was the bastard child of an unnamed aristocrat. The
truth has been lost to time.
One thing we can be certain of, and thats his birthplace -
the town of elazowa Wola fty kilometres west of Warsaw.
However, he stayed there for just a year, with the family
moving to Warsaw in 1811 after his father, a man whod
fought the Russians in the Napoleonic Wars, found a job
as a French tutor.
By all accounts he was a prodigy from the o ng. The young
Frederic started learning piano at the age of four, and by
the age of eight had already performed at what is now the
Presidential Palace. Yet in spite of his obvious talents ap-
plications for a state grant were repeatedly refused. Nev-
ertheless, his childhood was happy, and the gingerbread
eating Frederic received gushing reviews in local columns
and press.
A diligent student he was educated at home for the rst
13 years, before attending Warsaws Lyceum, and then the
Warsaw Music Conservatory. He continued to blossom
under its director, the Polish composer Joseph Elsner, who
was wowed by Chopins musical mastery. He graduated
from the Conservatory in 1829, the same year he was to
meet Konstancha Gadkowska, and his unrequited love for
her inspired many of his early compositions.
Within three weeks of graduation he made a sparkling
foreign debut in Vienna, before returning to Poland to per-
form the premier of his Piano Concerto in F minor. Already
recognised as an amazing talent, Chopin started showing
the signs of illness that would continue to blight the rest
of his life. A keen traveller (on record is a tour of Europe un-
dertaken in 1826 during which he visited Dresden, Krakw,
Prague and numerous other places as a tourist), Chopin set
o to play in Vienna in November 1830, following a farewell
party in a Wola tavern.
Unbeknownst to him at the time, that was to be his last
taste of Warsaw. By the end of the month Poland had risen
in rebellion against the ruling Russians. Dissuaded from
joining the uprising himself Chopin drew inspiration from
events to write his masterpiece, Revolution. Passages of his
Stuttgart diary record his torment: Oh God, do you exist?
Or are you yourself a Muscovite! Choosing to stay in exile
Chopin settled in playboy Paris where he was welcomed by
Polish migrs, as well as upcoming composers and high
society. His friends numbered Berlioz, Bellini (who he is bur-
ied next to) and Mendelssohn, as well as high prole Poles
like the uncrowned King, Prince Adam Czartoryski and
bard Adam Mickiewicz, while his dapper dress and natural
charms attracted a string of adoring females.
Drawing on his Polish upbringing the 1830s saw Chopin
enjoy an impressively productive spell, composing a series
of acclaimed polonaises and mazurkas. Ill health followed
him however, so much so that when he was taken ill on a
trip to meet his parents in 1835 some Polish scandal sheets
reported him dead.
He wasnt, and the dening point of his life was to oc-
cur two years later when he met the controversial author
George Sand (yes, thats a woman). His rst impression is
recorded as being surprisingly acid: what an unpleasant
woman, he is known to have commented. Already se-
cretly engaged to a 17 year old Polish girl, how Chopins
life would have evolved if he had never seen Sand again is
open to speculation. Instead he embarked on a torrid nine
year aair with this classic scarlet woman, with one stage of
their rocky relationship marked by a stint in an abandoned
monastery on the island of Mallorca.
Racked with chronic lung problems and a near permanent
cough, the faltering aair span out of control when Sand, a
loose-moraled man-killer, serialised the novel Lucretia Flo-
riani in a Paris newspaper in 1846. The boorish, asexual anti-
Chopin Chopin
ELAZOWA WOLA
ELAZOWA WOLA - BIRTHPLACE
The Chopin clan left for Warsaw in the autumn of 1810,
but even so elazowa Wola clearly held fond memo-
ries for the family. Close friends with the neighbouring
Skarbek family the Chopins found themselves return-
ing frequently for their holidays, and we know for fact
the composer spent Christmas here in 1825 and New
Year in 1826. The ZW manor house which saw the birth
of Chopin is thought to have been built at the tail end
of the 18th century, and came into the ownership of
Countess Ludwika Skarbek in 1801. Adam Towiaski,
who resided there between 1859 and 1878, was the
rst to raise the idea of turning the manor into a place
of memory, and he set about restoring the complex to
its Chopin-era glory. A change of ownership saw the
project stall for a decade and it was only in 1891 that
work was resumed on building a Chopin museum.
Thwarted by a lack of funds these eorts didnt get
much further than the unveiling of a Chopin monu-
ment, and for the next couple of decades work didnt
so much stall as die.
Poland regained her independence in 1918, and the
related surge in national pride and patriotism saw
new eorts to commemorate Chopins legacy. The
building was granted historic status and in 1928 the
property was purchased by a Sochaczew-based Cho-
pin society. Restoration on the buildings was initiated
in 1930, as were plans to landscape the gardens, and
buoyed by donations the curators started amassing
a stack of Chopin memorabilia, among them a Pleyel
piano. Disaster struck in the familiar form of the Ger-
man army: the outbreak of war in 1939 saw a German
unit billeted here, and the building was looted and
damaged.
By the time the Chopin Institute was awarded trust of
the house in the late 1940s the house found itself in
a sorry state of rot. Working round the clock to restore
it elazowa Wola was re-opened to the public on the
centenary of his death in 1949.
Today no original xtures and ttings remain, and even
the original layout has been altered somewhat. Even so,
the house has been lled with period keepsakes, instru-
ments and paintings, and visitors all attest to the haunt-
ing spirit of Chopin that hangs in the rooms.
Outside the landscaped gardens make for a nice week-
end walk, and feature four Chopin monuments includ-
ing one obelisk dating from 1894.
elazowa Wola is 54km west of Warsaw and can be
reached by catching a mini-bus at ul. Marszakowska
(next to Rossman) courtesy of Motobus.Qelazowa
Wola 15, tel. (+48) 46 863 33 00, www.chopin.
museum. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Museum closed Mon
(park open). Last entrance 30 minutes before clos-
ing. Admission 7/4z for the park, 23/14z for park
and museum. Thu free. N
FRYDERYK CHOPIN
MUSEUM
Touted as one of the most high tech in Europe the mu-
seum o cially opened in the spring of 2010 to help mark
the 200th anniversary of one of Polands most famous
sons. Taking up four oors the museum features an inter-
active style and shares in the life of Chopin from start to
nish leaving absolutely no detail out. Among the 5,000
exhibits are a lock of hair, his school exercise books, a sweet
box, a gold watch presented to the ten year old Frederic
by an admiring Italian singer and the passport he used to
enter England. So comprehensive is the collection it even
features the last letter he wrote to his family and dried
owers from his deathbed. Also, of course, are several
paintings and sculptures (including his death mask), and
a recreation of his Paris drawing room and even an intrigu-
ing section on the women who made the man.
However, what really revolutionizes this museum is
the way your route is conducted. Aside from an ava-
lanche of e-books, audio-visuals, music games and
touchscreen options, the museum allows visitors to
adapt their trip to their particular circumstances. Put
simply those entering can choose exactly what they
want to see, and how much they want to know about
it. Even better are the micro-chipped tickets that can
be swiped along dierent interactive exhibits to allow
the visitor to hear music, stories or watch a lm. One
area that was particularly popular is the musical Twister
game, which had normally stoic middle-aged tourists
leaping from spot to spot as music played. Mr Chopin,
welcome to the 21st century.
As for the building, thats worth getting to know as well.
Located in the Ostrogski Palace the structure housing the
museum is something of a Warsaw landmark, and was
originally designed by Tylman van Gameren. In the past
its been home to everything from a Napoleonic military
hospital to the riotous Morgans Pub, and its catacombs
are said to be home of the legendary Golden Duck; a prin-
cess charmed by the devil before being transformed into
a beaked amphibian.QC-3, ul. Oklnik 1, tel. (+48) 22
441 62 51, www.chopin.museum. Open 11:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Ad-
mission 22/13z, family ticket 62z, Thu free. Number of
visitors is restricted, so it is advisable to reserve tickets
in advance by email or phone. YU
hero is commonly recognized as being a parody of Chopin.
Broke, ill and now broken-hearted, Chopin led an increas-
ingly miserable and secluded life. He nally passed away in
his Paris apartment aged just 39 - though just like his birth,
his death is equally contentious; some believe tuberculosis
as the cause of death, others a malady such as emphysema
or cystic brosis. If you believe the stories he carried a lock
of Sands hair till the day he died (though by the same to-
ken he is also alleged to have carried an urn of Polish soil).
Buried in Pere-Lachaise cemetery in Paris, on his insistence
his body was cut open (he was petried of being buried
alive) and his heart later interned in a pillar of Warsaws
Koci witego Krzya. His funeral was as weird as his life,
delayed for two weeks while church authorities debated
whether to grant his wish and allow Mozarts Requiem to
be sung at his funeral (the point of contention being the
presence of female singers). Regarded as the pinnacle of
the Romantic style his music and legend survive to this day.
WHAT TO SEE
THE CHOPIN FAMILY DRAWING ROOM
The young Chopin hopped around three separate residences
in Warsaw, though only one will be of use to visitors. Saski
Palace - where his father worked as a tutor - was in the pro-
cess of being rebuilt (work now halted and temporarily aban-
doned), while Kazimierzowski Palace is closed o to visitors
as part of Warsaw University - a plaque on the right wing
commemorates his eeting presence. Instead pay a visit
to Krasiski Palace (formerly Czapski Palace) on Krakowskie
Przedmiecie, a place Chopin himself described as his refuge.
Reconstructed in 1960 and opened to the public in 1969
none of the original furnishings survived the war, though
the period furniture on display has been faithfully assembled
to recreate his drawing room as seen in an Antoni Kolberg
painting made in 1832. Chopin lived and entertained here
from 1827 until his last day in Poland, and today some of
the antiques on display include a writing desk owned by
his elder sister and a pianoforte dating from 1830, as well as
paintings of his mother, sister and tutor. Another pianoforte
on show was once allegedly used by Franz Liszt. Thats not
the only famous connection - poet Cyprian Norwid attended
school in this building.QC-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
5, tel. (+48) 22 320 02 75, www.chopin.museum. Open
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 3/2z, Wed free. N
AZIENKI PARK
Our youthful cherry-cheeked hero frequently gave con-
certs in the Belvedere Palace (G-5, ul. Belwederska 52), then
the stamping ground of the Russian aristocracy. It was here
he played for the Tsars brother, Great Prince Konstanty,
whose numerous duties included being the commander-
in-chief of the Polish Army. So taken was he by Chopins
skills that he persuaded him to pen a march to be played
during military parades.
Elsewhere in azienki dont dare miss a visit to the art nou-
veau Chopin Monument (G-4) next to the Botanical Garden.
Set in the midst of a rose garden it was erected in 1926, the
work of acclaimed sculptor Wacaw Szymankowski. As part
of the Nazi brutalization of Warsaw it was dynamited by
German busybodies on May 31, 1940. The following day an
unknown patriot had placed a placard on the smouldering
ruin declaring: I dont know who destroyed me, but I know
why; so I dont play the funeral march for your leader. A
plaster-cast of the original model allowed the statue to be
rebuilt and a faithful reconstruction was unveiled in 1958.
An identical replica can be found at Japans Hamamatsu
Academy of Music.
CHOPIN MONUMENT (POMNIK CHOPINA)
Dont dare miss a visit to the art nouveau Chopin Monu-
ment (G-4) next to the Botanical Garden. Set in the midst of
a rose garden it was erected in 1926, the work of acclaimed
sculptor Wacaw Szymankowski. As part of the Nazi brutal-
ization of Warsaw it was dynamited by German busybodies
on May 31, 1940. The following day an unknown patriot
had placed a placard on the smoldering ruin declaring: I
dont know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I dont
play the funeral march for your leader. A plaster-cast of the
original model allowed the statue to be rebuilt and a recon-
struction was unveiled in 1958.QG-4, azienki Park.
CHOPIN BENCHES
The good city of Warsaw has devised one more way to
bring Chopin to the people, and thats by way of fteen
musical benches that have been placed at key sites con-
nected with his life. Made of cast iron and polished black
stone these benches, designed by Professor Jerzy Porebski,
feature a button which when pressed have been designed
to unleash a thirty second torrent of Chopin. They also
come equipped with a route map as well as brief expla-
nations in Polish and English as to the sites relevance to
Chopin. However, thats not all. These benches see Chopin
go techno: each one comes inscribed with a special code
- take a pic on your phone, then send it to the instructed
number and youll be rewarded to free access to Chopin
melodies, facts, gures and photographs.
AND THE REST
It didnt have a Starbucks and it didnt have Coeeheaven,
but even back in those days Warsaw had a thriving caf cul-
ture. This wasnt lost on Chopin who would frequent now
defunct venues such as Pod Kopciuszkiem and Dziurka on
ul. Miodowa. One venue that has survived is Honoratka,
named after its proprietor Honorata Zimerman, and a
particular favourite stomping ground of the composer. He
was also an avid reader, confessing to visiting the Brzezina
Bookstore (again, now gone) on Miodowa every day, as
well as stocking up on sheet music in Dal Trozza on Sena-
torska. Elsewhere the building on the corner of ul. Kozia
and Trbacka formerly housed the Royal Post O ce, and
its here that Chopin forwarded his luggage from before
departing Poland for what would prove to be his last time.
Finally theres Powzki Cemetery, where his parents lie in
plot 9-IV-1. Jzef Elsner, his mentor and teacher, can be
found at plot 159-V-1.
d
GETTING TO D
dz lies 140km south west of Warsaw and is easily ac-
cessed by train. When modernization nishes dz will
be within an hours reach of Warsaw, but for the time be-
ing journey time is around two hours and fteen minutes,
while they continue to work on the new high speed link. If
youre travelling from the capital youll need to book a ticket
running to d Kaliska train station (dz Fabryczna is un-
der construction until 2015). The city centre is best reached
by taxis. Taxis stand directly outside the main entrance the
train station, though travellers should only use cabs that are
clearly marked.
SOME BASICS
d rst appeared in written records in 1332 under the
name of odzia and remained little more than a rural back-
water for the following centuries, with a population num-
bering just 800 as late as the 16th century.
The birth of modern d as we know it can be traced to
1820, when statesman, philosopher and writer Stanisaw
Staszic began a campaign to turn the Russian-controlled
city into a centre of manufacturing. The rst cotton mill was
opened in 1825 and by 1839 the rst steam-powered fac-
tory in Poland and Russia was o cially christened. A mas-
sive inux of workers from as far aeld as Portugal, England
and France ooded the city, though the mainstay of the
towns population remained Poles, Germans and Jews.
Within a matter of decades d had grown into the big-
gest textile production centre in the Russian Empire, during
which time vast fortunes were made and lost by the major
industrialist families.
By the outbreak of WWI the town stood out as one of the
most densely populated cities on the planet with a popula-
tion of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre.
But hard times were around the corner; the inter-war years
signaled an end to the towns Golden Age, and the loss of
Russian and German economic markets led to strikes and
civil unrest that were to become a feature of inter-war d.
Things were about to get worse: the outbreak of WWII saw
the city annexed into The Third Reich.
The following six years of occupation left the population
decimated with 120,000 Poles killed, and an estimated
300,000 Jews perishing in what was to become known
as the Litzmannstadt ghetto. Following the war, and with
much of Warsaw in ruins, d was used as Polands tem-
porary capital until 1948. The wholesale war-time destruc-
tion of Warsaw also saw many of Polands eminent artists
and cultural institutes decamp to the nearest big city; that
city was d, and today the town can boast a rich cultural
heritage, with Polands leading lm school, one of the most
important modern art galleries in Europe, and an exciting
underground culture.
Today d is a city slowly rediscovering itself, growing in
condence and coming to terms with its patchy history.
Overlooked by many visitors to Poland, this is a city full of
hidden charms: from the awesome palaces that belonged
to the hyper-rich industrialists who made the city, to Eu-
ropes longest pedestrian street (Piotrkowksa) to the largest
municipal park in Europe. Youll nd everything you need
to know about the city in our print guide to d, as well as
our full content online at www.inyourpocket.com.
MANUFAKTURA
How many times have you heard a shopping centre call
itself More than a shopping centre? In the case of Manu-
faktura, for once the hyperbole is entirely justied. For this
is indeed more than a shopping centre. In fact, we really
shouldnt be calling it a shopping centre at all. Covering a
space of 150,000m2 Manufaktura does of course feature a
mall with endless shopping opportunities, but that would
not tell the full story.
Manufaktura today is the result of Polands largest renovation
project since the reconstruction of Warsaws Old Town in the
1950s. Originally a series of factories that were constructed
in the latter part of the 19th century the restoration of the
old factories quite simply has to be seen to be believed. En-
ter through the Poznaski gate, where workers used to le
through everyday on their way to the mills, and youll ar-
rive at the projects ground zero: the 30,000m2 Rynek (main
square). Featuring Europes longest fountain the square is the
cultural hub, with restaurants, tness club and IMAX cinema
crowded around it. A full program of events is planned to
keep things lively, including pop concerts, beer festival and
big screen showings of sports events.
Manufaktura is visited by close on 20 million visitors a year
and has become the new heart of the city. For the more
languorous character two electric tramlines have also been
added to ferry visitors from one end of the complex to the
other. And in spite all of this Manufaktura remains very
much a work in progress with new additions and changes
happening all the time. The complex can boast a state of
the art 4-star Andels hotel, a Museum of Art as well as the
History of Lodz museum set in the palace of the former mill
owner Izrael Poznanski.
D IN YOUR POCKET
d may look like its pro-
nounced Lodz, but it most cer-
tainly isnt. Think of it as Woodge,
and three hundred years ago a
visit here would have produced
the sight of little more than one
man and his dog. In terms of age
d is one of the youngest cities
in the country, and a direct prod-
uct of the Industrial Revolution.
And while d cannot boast the twee charisma of
Prague and Krakw a scratch of the surface rewards the
intrepid traveller with a city stued with wacky stories,
dark history and some of the countries nest after-dark
venues youll nd them all inside our 13th issue of
d In Your Pocket; Polands rst comprehensive Eng-
lish-language guide to the city.
Hotels Restaurants Bars Sights Shops Events Maps
L00Z
January - April 2014
N21 - 5z| (w tym 8% VAT) lodz.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1896-1169
jewish Ldz
Explore the former
ghetto
Local street art
Free-form art
is everywhere
Leisure
SPA & BEAUTY
ALCHEMY DAY SPA
Pamper yourself at one of Warsaws most established
day spas. Alchemy offers a full range of beauty treat-
ments and relaxation therapies using some of the finest
natural products from around the globe. If the sterile,
hospital-like look of many modern spas isnt your thing
then this is the perfect place for you. The location itself,
a 1920s town house apartment with a great sense of
history, makes you feel relaxed and at home the mo-
ment you set foot in the door. Forget all the madness
going on outside and just let the goodness wash over
you!QG-5, ul. Klonowa 20/1, tel. (+48) 22 849 32
56, www.dayspa.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 -
21:00. Closed Sun.
FRANCK PROVOST
French-trained English-speaking stylists oering unisex
hair treatment and styling from 100z to 350z. Manicure
and pedicure also available as well as cosmetic products by
LOreal and Kerastase. Also at ul. Puawska 25a (G-5), which
has expanded spa services like massage and microderm-
abrasion.QC-3, ul. Nowy wiat 58a, tel. (+48) 22 826 81
01, www.franckprovost.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00
- 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
SWIMMING
AQUAPARK WESOLANDIA
Includes a junior swimming pool, Jacuzzi, slide, tness
centre. Length 25m, depth 1.1-1.8m.Qul. Wsplna 4
(Wesoa), tel. (+48) 22 773 91 91, www.wesolandia.pl.
Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. 12-20z per
hour. All day tickets 30-32z.
WODNY PARK
Heres the best pool of the lot with facilities including sau-
nas, steam rooms, snow cabins, solariums as well as loads
of slides and other recreational facilities. Prices range from
20-26z/12-20z per hour, with a reduced ticket to the spa
available Mon-Fri until 17:00 for 20zl.Qul. Merliniego 4
(Mokotw), tel. (+48) 22 854 01 30, www.wodnypark.
com.pl. Open 06:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00 (Spa
open 11:00-22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-22:00. Admission 27-
42/20z).
HORSE RIDING
ANKA RANCHO HORSE RIDING
Qul. Wawrzyniecka 25, Glinianka, tel. (+48) 602 30
48 61, www.ankarancho.pl. Open Sat, Sun only: 09:00
- 13:00, 15:00 till dusk. Phone reservation two days in
advance. One hour horse riding 50z.
WILCZENIEC COUNTRY CLUB
English speaking instruction also available.Qul. Kocielna
Droga 10, omianki, tel. (+48) 22 751 97 77, www.
wilczeniec.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. 60z/45
minutes of riding in a closed corral with assistance,
40z/45 minutes riding outside the corral on your own.
PARKS
HELICOPTER.PL
See Warsaw from above in a Eurocopter courtesy of Helicopter.
pl. Flights depart from Bemowo and last 30 minutes, ying over
the Wisa and National Stadium.Qul. Ksiycowa 3 (Bielany),
Bldg #15, tel. (+48) 509 26 04 00, www.helicopter.pl.
ZOO
Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares
and attracts some 500,000 visitors each year. Four elephants,
a family of seals and a lion were added to the current collec-
tion of reptiles, birds and tigers. Conditions have improved
dramatically in recent years, though a visit here will do little to
change any opinions you have on locking animals in cages. As
with every major Warsaw landmark, the zoo has plenty of war
stories. It was bombed at the beginning of the conict and
by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to
the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo
director, Jan abiski, became something of a hero; wounded
during the 1944 Uprising, abiski helped save countless lives
by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo.
The zoo o cially re-opened in 1949.QC-1, ul. Ratuszowa
1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Open 09:00
- 18:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission
20/15z. Children under 3 years free.
RACQUET SPORTS
CITY SPORTS CLUB
Located on ul. Domaniewska, they oer a variety of sports in-
struction and facility rental for tennis, swimming, golf, squash,
dance and climbing walls. Tennis is perhaps the most popular
with numerous courts available (60-100z/per hour), lessons
with an English-speaking instructor (60-180z/per hour),
equipment rental (by prior arrangement) and social lessons
for expats.Qul. Domaniewska 41a (Mokotw), tel. (+48)
695 83 68 80, www.citysportsclub.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
SQUASH CITY Nine air-conditioned courts. A second lo-
cation at Malborska 51-53 features six courts and the same
prices for admission.QAl. Jerozolimskie 179 (CH Blue City,
Ochota), tel. (+48) 22 499 64 66, www.squashcity.pl. Open
07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 45-65z.
SUNGATE BEAUTY & SPA
The menu of services available at Sun-
gate is staggering: from facials and ev-
ery imaginable type of massage (shea
butter to aromatherapy) to waxing
and nailcare they have you covered
from head to foot. Package for cou-
ples, women and just regular folks who like to indulge
are also available.QB-3, Pl. Powstacw Warszawy 2,
tel. (+48) 517 01 28 80, www.spasungate.pl. Open
10:00 - 24:00.
b e a u t y & s p a
Leisure
BIKE RENTAL
WYGODNY ROWER
Choose from two different styles of bicycles for cruis-
ing around the city at this cafe/boutique/bike shop.
An hour goes for 10 z, 2 hrs/18z and 4 hrs/25 z
while a full day will cost 40z and 24 hours 50z. All
rentals require a returnable deposit of 200zl or 50
euros.QC-3, ul. Smolna 10, tel. (+48) 787 38 63 86,
www.wygodnyrower.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
BOWLING & BILLIARDS
ARCO BOWLING ALLEY
Two oors, 32 lanes, restaurant and club. 80-150z per lane
per hour, shoes and instructor included.QD-5, ul. Bitwy
Warszawskiej 1920r. 19, tel. (+48) 22 668 75 91, www.
arco-bowling.pl. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
ENTERTAINMENT CENTRES
HULAKULA LEISURE CENTRE
Includes a bowling alley, club, restaurant, pool hall, climb-
ing wall and indoor playground for children.QC-2, ul. Do-
bra 56/66 (University Library), tel. (+48) 22 552 74 00,
www.hulakula.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Wed 12:00
- 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 -
04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
SPIN CITY
Admission for bowling is 40-99z per hour. Features a
bowling alley, a bar with pool tables and darts and a video
games area.Qul. Powstacw lskich 126A (Cinema
City, Bemowo), tel. (+48) 22 560 42 42, www.spincity.pl.
Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00.
FITNESS & GYMS
PURE HEALTH AND FITNESS
Third oor of Zote Tarasy, with facilties including gym,
jacuzzi, sauna and solarium.QA-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote
Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 379 77 77, www.purepoland.
com. Open 06:00 - 22:30, Sat 08:00 - 22:30, Sun 08:00
- 21:30.
GOLF
GOLF PARK DRIVING RANGE
For 25z you get 50 balls for use on the driving range.
Qul. Vogla 19 (Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22 424 70 83, www.
golfparkspoland.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00.
HULAKULA BOWLING
ALLEY
QC-2, ul. Dobra 56/66
(University Library), tel.
(+48) 22 552 74 00, www.
hulakula.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Wed 12:00 -
01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00
- 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 35-125z per hour. Shoes
included.
Shopping
EKSKLUZYWNE ALKOHOLE M&P
Wines and assorted alcohol from Poland and across the
world.QE-3, ul. Paska 81/83, tel. (+48) 22 652 85 22,
www.wina-mp.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun.
AMBER & JEWELLERY
Vodka isnt the only golden nectar popular in Poland; the
country is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who
handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and cov-
eted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bring-
ing baby some Baltic Gold and youve booked yourself a stint
in the doghouse. The best place to begin your search is the
Old Town, which is lled with purveyors of amber baubles.
ART GALLERY AMBER SILVER LINE
This gorgeous gallery specialises in luxury handcrafted jew-
ellery of the amber variety. This is the agship location of
what is the largest and oldest Amber dealers in the City.
Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top design-
ers, plus high quality jewellery made with other precious
stones. Also visit theyre other high street location at ul.
Nowy wiat 59.QB-1, ul. Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13.
Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
GALERIA BURSZTYNEK
The Caka family have been in the amber business for two
generations and their love of this gift of the Baltic coast
ALCOHOL
Of course you didn't come to Poland just for the booze, but
while you're here it'd be rude not to check out what the
country has to oer. Primarily that means vodka, with the
two most highly regarded clear Polish vodkas being Bel-
vedere and Chopin. Find them in any alcohol store. Oth-
ers to watch for include ubrwka - that's the one with
the blade of bison grass inside - krupnik, a sweet honey
vodka, and winiwka, a sickly sweet cherry drink usually
consumed after meals. Finally, check Goldwasser, a unique
elixir characterised by the 22 karat gold akes oating in it.
Bottle shops are numerous in Poland, as common as cab-
bage, though the ones we list come guaranteed to have no
tramps or underage teens.
BODEGAS SANTA RUFINA
Under the same ownership as the La Vina tapas bar, this
little wine shop stocks about 50 rened wines from a num-
ber of Spanish provinces north of Madrid. As well as the full
range of wines from the owners own Santa Runa vine-
yard, he has personally sourced an outstanding selection
via his own personal contacts and his passion for the wines
of northern Spain. Being the sole importer means that you
will not nd these wines anywhere else in the city. So go
ahead, impress your friends!QD-6, ul. Bohdanowicza 3,
tel. (+48) 22 824 00 33, www.bodegassantarufna.pl.
Open 15:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed
Sun.
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Shopping
Paris, London or New York it aint, but hard-core shoppers
can still nd plenty to spend their well-earned lolly on. War-
saw is seeing true growth in the array of shops available
and the number of big-name labels that are opening store-
fronts. Whether its western-style malls, designer boutiques,
dusty family stores or antique markets, a day spent shop-
ping can result in both bargains and treasures, and there
are plenty of gifts to be had for everyone on your list (in-
cluding yourself ); below we list some recommendations:
Wife/Girlfriend:
Poland is well known as THE home of amber, so grab a
piece of jewellery made from this Baltic treasure at the ap-
propriately named World of Amber. For Darling, Ill love
you forever gifts, check out the credit card busting, luxury
goods worlds of VITKAC or the Likus Concept Store.
Husband/Boyfriend:
One word: vodka. Another word: smalec. Take home Po-
lands famous nectar and a container of savoury, spreadable
lard and youll make any man happy. Krakowski Kredens
carries tasty tubs of smalec (as well as dozens of other
Polish foodstus that make perfect gifts), while youll nd
popular Polish vodka brands like ubrwka and Belvedere
in any alcohol shop.
Brother:
What brother couldnt use a Prussian helmet or a bobble-
head of a long-deceased dictator? Check out our markets
section, where places like Koo Bazar and Targowisko
Bakalarska promise an array of oddities and treasures that
brothers will appreciate for their sheer quirk.
Sister:
Sis will denitely become suspicious of your new found eye
for design if you pick her up a fashionable felt bag embel-
lished with an embroidered traditional folk motif from the
immensely popular and trend-setting Polish design shop
Goshico. If the bags a bit much, go for something smaller
like an iPhone case from the equally cool accessories range.
Children:
The agship store of the EMPiK department store stocks a great
range of kids toys and games. In the mayhem youll nd sur-
real Polish cuddly toys battling it out with the latest blockbuster
movie gurines, both computer and board games, plus loads
of other creative things for little tykes. For young bo ns we
recommend you raid the Science Store at the Copernicus Sci-
ence Centre; games, experiments and books for all ages await.
Mother:
You cant go far wrong by getting mama some of PLs fa-
mous Bolesawiec Pottery from the store of the same
name. The mainly blue and white peacock eye patterns
hold something of a cult status and a great range is avail-
able from Cepelia. The neighbours will be in awe when
they drop by for tea and a gossip.
Father:
If your dad is anything like ours he can lose hours of his life
in interesting vintage bookshops. Warsaw is packed with
them, and Antykwariat Lamus is one of the best for old
postcards, unique prints, old books and yellowing maps
from bygone days. Remember to ask about restrictions on
certain pre-1945 items being taken out of the country.
Shopping Shopping
MOLIERA 2
Exclusive two level boutique featuring collections by Val-
entino, Salvatore Ferragamo, Christian Louboutin, Balmain,
Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Sim-
onetta Ravizza, Tods and Ralph Lauren.QB-2, ul. Moliera
2, tel. (+48) 22 827 70 99, www.moliera2.com. Open
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
PL. TRZECH KRZYY 3/4
Label-conscious shoppers will delight in the mix of de-
signers like Ralph Lauren, Moncler, Salvatore Ferragamo,
Valentino, Tom Ford, Tory Burch and TODs that are spread
across mens and womens apparel and accessories. Dis-
plays of pristinely-folded sweaters are immaculate, and the
sta is eager to search for any size - and have an encyclo-
paedic knowledge of which celebrities are sporting which
style.QF-4, ul. Hoa 1, tel. (+48) 22 622 14 16, www.
plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -
17:00. Closed Sun.
TFH TYMCZASOWY BUTIK
This one-time pop-up shop has set down roots nally,
which means youll know exactly where to nd the citys
hottest fashions. TFHs new boutique displays an impressive
selection of stylish t-shirts, handbags and hoodies from a
variety of dierent designers. Dont forget to check out the
accessories and large pictorial books about - what else?
- fashion.QB-4, ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. (+48) 509 74 17 89.
Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
GOSHICO
We can guarantee that you wont have to walk very far
before spotting one of Goshicos handmade, felt and tradi-
tional folk design inspired embroidered bags on the arm of
some trend-setting local. Due to the companys phenom-
enal success the range continues to expand and now in-
cludes the likes of iPad/phone cases, laptop bags and small
accessories. Products are available from numerous outlets
around Warsaw but visit the city centre showroom to view
the whole range or discuss having a custom made item de-
signed especially for you.QF-4, ul. Koszykowa 51a lok.37,
tel. (+48) 501 80 88 78, www.goshico.com. Open 09:00
- 17:00, Mon, Thu 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
TAX FREE SHOPPING
Non-EU residents are entitled to claim
a VAT refund when the purchased
goods are exported in an unused
condition outside the EU in personal
luggage. Shop wherever you see the
Global Blue logo. The minimum to-
tal purchase value with VAT per Tax
Free Form is 200pln. Keep the Tax Free Form, have it
stamped when leaving the nal point of departure
from the EU and reclaim your money. For full details
check www.global-blue.com.
2 STAMP IT
3 REFUND
1 GET IT
Once youve found that perfect item, remember to ask the shop
staff for a Tax Free Form when youre paying for it.
Tax Free Shopping

For more details contact:
Global Blue Polska Sp. z o. o.
Phone: +48 22 500 18 51
e-mail: taxfree.pl@globalblue.com
www.globalblue.com
As a traveler residing in a
non-EU country you are entitled
to claim back the VAT on your
purchases when you bring them
home.
You will find Global Blue Tax
Free Shopping service in the
major shops of Poland.
Spend a minimum of 200PLN,
and save up to 12% of the
purchase price.
When youre leaving the country to head home
or to continue your journey, take your
purchases, receipt and passport to the customs
desk to get your Tax Free Form stamped. If
youre travelling on to another EU country, get
the stamp on your Tax Free Form at your final
point of departure from the EU.
Finally, show your stamped Tax Free Form and
passport to our staff at Global Blue Customer
Services or one of our partner refund points and
theyll issue your refund immediately.
The Global Blue Card
Your Passport to Great Savings, the World Over
(more information at GBs website)
GALERIA ABO ART
Miniscule art gallery that sells only works by Polish artists.
Watercolours of Old Town landmarks, metal art, painted silks,
glassware and jewellery all jumbled together for your perusal.
A unique local oering.QB-1, ul. Rynek Nowego Miasta 17,
tel. (+48) 604 78 18 81. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
LAPIDARIUM
We can (and probably have) spend hours at Lapidarium
wandering the cluttered rooms lled with all manner of junk
- - and we say that with love. Old uniforms, reproduction
propaganda posters, busts of Lenin, ancient record players
and even old farm equipment ghts for your attention here.
Give yourself time to wander and accumulate a weird selec-
tion for purchase. How to spot this place? Look for the an-
tique bicycle and spindle sitting outside the entrance.QB-
1, ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, tel. (+48) 509 60 18 94, www.
lapidarium.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 19:00.
BOOKS, MUSIC & FILMS
Good luck nding your morning paper; despite the millions
of ights that land each morning, most English language
dailys dont hit the shops until the afternoon, sometimes
not untill the next day. The most comprehensive source of
foreign press can be found at EMPiK, but you might also try
the newsagents found in ve star hotels. As far as maga-
zines are concerned, EMPiK blows the competition out of
the water, though you can expect to pay a hefty mark-up
for your mag of choice. For the latest paperback beach
reads check out American Bookstore.
AMERICAN BOOKSTORE
Located in the enormous Arkadia shopping complex, this
is an excellent shop for English-language literature, though
their stock is heavily inuenced by the bestsellers list.QF-
4, Al. Jana Pawa II 82, tel. (+48) 22 331 29 08, www.
americanbookstore.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 -
21:00.
EMPIK
A hefty selection of international magazines and newspapers
as well as music, video games and movies. Theres also an
Empik megastore nearby at ul. Marszakowska 116/122QC-
4, ul. Nowy wiat 15/17, tel. (+48) 22 451 04 81, www.
empik.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
FASHION & ACCESSORIES
The stylish denizens of Warsaws streets are an easy indi-
cator that fashion is important in the capital city. Trot out
anything less than your best and it wont go unnoticed, we
promise you. With the opening of dom handlowy VITKAC
the city has seen the arrival of major labels like Gucci and
Lanvin, and the Likus Concept Store is a reliable go-to for
the latest designer oerings. Check out high quality Polish
brands like Reserved, Vistula and Tatuum, all of which youll
undoubtedly nd in Warsaws shopping centres like Zlote
Tarasy and Arkadia.
makes Galeria Bursztynek the store to visit for stunning
jewellery and artefacts, all produced in their own work-
shop. Not content with just selling you a unique souvenir
from your trip to Warsaw they are also keen to educate
customers about the history of amber, the craftsmanship
involved in working the resin and its many uses through-
out the ages. In order to do this, they have turned part of
their glamorous Old Town emporium into a permanent and
fascinating museum display. Also at ul. Zamoyskiego 45a/2
(H-1).QB-1, ul. Duga 8/14 lok.70, tel. (+48) 508 51 16 80,
www.bursztynek.co. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
SILVER LINE
The name says silver, but this shop cum gallery specializes
in amber. They are the oldest and largest amber jeweller
in the capital and the only one approved by this sultry
saps very own governing body (International Amber As-
sociation). Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top
designers, plus high quality jewellery made with other pre-
cious stones. Also in the Old Town at ul. Rynek Starego Mia-
sta 9/11/13 (B-1).QC-3, ul. Nowy wiat 59. Open 11:00
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
W.KRUK
Polish jewellery, amber and watches from various in-
ternational brand names including Emporio Armani,
Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer, Maurice Lacroix, Longines,
Anne Klein. Watches only available at these locations:
(C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyy 8 and Pl. Konstytucji 6 (F-4).QC-
4, Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, tel. (+48) 661 98 05 74,
www.wkruk.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
ANTIQUES & ART GALLERIES
A walk through the streets of old and new town is usu-
ally enough to full antiquarian designs, as will a short
mooch along Mokotowska. However, anybody whose
anybody will tell you the real treasures are found else-
where, namely the excellent Bazar Na Kole, an open-air
market where haggling and bargaining are considered
de rigeur. For full details on that check Markets. If youre
planning on taking an artwork out of the country, and
it was produced prior to 1945, you will need authorisa-
tion to permit you to do so. Most shops will be able to
provide you with this straight o the bat, but do check
beforehand.
ANYTKWARIAT LAMUS
On rst glance youll spot the shelves packed with old
books and encyclopaedias and want to thumb your nose,
but a further peek inside Lamus reveals bins of prints wait-
ing to be sifted through. Old Warsaw cityscapes, drawings
of Polish ora and fauna and even the o bit of vintage
erotica can be found by those intrepid enough to dig, and
the walls are hung with old maps that are also for sale.
QB-1, ul. Nowomiejska 7, tel. (+48) 22 831 63 21, www.
lamus.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sun.
Shopping Shopping
SHOPPING MALLS
FACTORY OUTLET URSUS
This outlet centre is preoc-
cupied with fashion, of-
fering top brand names
at 30-70% discounts over
other shopping malls. Rec-
ognisable names among
the brands include Pepe Jeans, Wrangler, Wittchen
and more. One of the only such outlet centres in Eu-
rope, you can access it by taking the SKM train from
rdmiecie and getting o at SKM Ursus, or by catch-
ing bus 127 at Dworzec Centralny and switching to bus
194 or 716 at PKP Wlochy. Your nal destination will be
Ursus-Ratusz. Also at ul. Annopol 2 (Biaoka).QPl. Cz-
erwca 1976r. 6 (Ursus), tel. (+48) 22 478 22 70, www.
factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
FACTORY OUTLET ANNOPOL
FACTORYs second Warsaw location featuring: Nike, Adidas,
Smyk, Ecco , Empik, Guess, Wrangler, Pepe Jeans and more.
Qul. Annopol 2 (Biaoka), tel. (+48) 22 441 90 00,
www.factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
VITKAC
The giant glowing Gucci sign will be your rst hint
that this isnt your typical shopping centre, and the
heavy security is the second. Shoppers can nd the
popular Likus Concept Store on the main level of the
sprawling structure while labels like Givenchy, Armani,
Dsquared2, Alexander McQueen, Gucci and Yves Saint
Laurent are spread over the remaining four levels of
shopping space, with roughly three employees avail-
able for every browsing customer. The atmosphere
is more museum than mall, but if youre looking to
splurge on designer names then this is your headquar-
ters. If maxing out your credit card works up an appetite
be sure to head to Restauracja Concept 13, which oers
sweeping city views in a modern, open-concept space.
QC-4, ul. Bracka 9, tel. (+48) 22 310 73 13, www.
vitkac.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
ZOTE TARASY
Located next to the central train station, the Zote Tarasy
complex signals a bold shift away from the out-of-town
malls found in Warsaw, and features familiar stores like
Marks & Spencers, Aldo, Polands rst Body Shop, Hugo
Boss, Van Graf and EMPiK. For leisure, visitors can not
only visit Polands rst Hard Rock Caf which is split over
2 levels, but also a multiplex cinema and more than 20
restaurants and bars spread over 5 levels. Designed by
Jerde Partnership International, the central showpiece is
a 10,000m glass dome, tted with a special mechanism
to both lter sunrays and to stop snow from building
up.QA-4, ul. Zota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222 22 00, www.
zlotetarasy.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
SPECJAY REGIONALNE
This is a great little caf and deli serving out meat and po-
tatoes in all their varying Polish forms, but in small enough
portions to not come away in pain. Think Polish tapas - its
a great place to go and sample the full range of Polish
sausage meat and ham, especially when the prices are so
small. As an extra bonus, if you really like what you have
you can order some more from the deli to take home for
later. Furthermore, the owner is something of a mead fa-
natic and they have a great hot and cold selection. 8-21zl.
QC-3, ul. Nowy wiat 44, tel. (+48) 662 25 42 15, www.
specjalwiejski.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS
Polish glass and amber are highly thought of, though if you
want something clutz-proof then Polish linen, lace and wood-
work all look lovely on someone elses mantle. Folk art is an
easily recognizable symbol of Poland, as is a magnet of the
countrys favorite hero and saint-in-waiting Pope John Paul II.
For the lads, pick up a Polski football shirt or scarf o any of
the stalls that spring up unannounced around central station.
BOLESAWIEC POTTERY
Brightly patterned hand-nished ceramics and tableware.
QA-4, ul. Prosta 2/14, tel. (+48) 22 624 84 08, www.
ceramicboleslawiec.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
CEPELIA
Your rst stop for tacky souveniers. Amongst the tat also nd
traditional Polish handicrafts: table cloths, ceramics, glass
etc. Also at ul. Chmielna 8 (C-3).QB-4, ul. Marszakowska
99/101, tel. (+48) 22 628 77 57, www.cepelia.pl. Open
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
NEPTUNEA
A weird little nd selling decorative sea shells, minerals,
fossils, silver jewellery, oriental furniture and exotic crafts.
An absolute treasure, and a must visit if youre looking
for a something a little unique.QB-2, ul. Krakowskie
Przedmiecie 47/51, tel. (+48) 22 827 97 05, www.
neptunea.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
ROCK SHOP
You know a city has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe
and is there anything which says Ive been there more
than a Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the Warsaw
one to add to your collection at the shop inside the HRC
in the Zote Tarasy development opposite the train sta-
tion. Classic t-shirts cost 99z, all others run 115z.QB-4,
ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.
hardrockcafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00.
TEBE
Ever wondered where to get a gingerbread Tornado ghter
aircraft whilst visiting the city? Tebe has been producing
traditional decorative gingerbread (piernik) decorations
for as long as we can remember. Only natural ingredients
are used and around 100 dierent types of seeds, owers
and fruits are used to add details to the items on oer. Gin-
gerbread decorations are a staple of Polish Christmas and
Easter celebrations, so its a great shop to stock up on some
rather unusual festive goodies. As well as the previously
mentioned Tornado, the special section rather surreally
includes; motorcycles, crocodiles and a dachshund. Wacky,
but irresistible! Its also well worth visiting the famous Foto-
plastikon which is located in the same old courtyard.QB-4,
Al. Jerozolimskie 51, tel. (+48) 601 38 22 84, www.tebe.
waw.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
MARKETS
Cheapskates rejoice, while the closure of The Russian Mar-
ket hit bargain hunters hard Warsaw still has a very decent
spread of bazaars. While rumours of pickpockets are at
times exaggerated, do nonetheless exercise a degree of
vigilance while perusing the swag on show.
KOO BAZAR
Quality ea market held each weekend from dawn till
dusk. Attracting buyers and sellers from across the coun-
try this is exactly the place if youve ever wanted to own
a Prussian helmet or set of palace doors from India (yours
for 16,000z). What else can you nd? Weve spotted pre-
war posters advertising Polish toothpaste, early 19th cen-
tury postcards, prewar bathroom xtures and grandfather
clocks. Vinyl records go for as little as 1z. The golden rule is
to haggle at all times. Paying the asking price means over-
paying.QD-2, ul. Obozowa 99, tel. (+48) 22 836 23 51.
Open 06:00 - 19:00.
TARG DOBREGO JEDZENIA W FORTECY
Food, food and more food. Find fresh herbs and vegetables,
cheeses, meats, eggs straight from the chicken and eco
honey for sale.QB-1, ul. Zakroczymska 12, tel. (+48) 601
13 58 01, www.kregliccy.pl. Open Wed only 08:00 - 17:00.
TARGOWISKO BAKALARSKA
Prior to the building of Warsaws new National Stadium
the site was home to the famous communist era Stadion
Dziesiciolecia (10th Anniversary Stadium), a monstrous,
crumbling stadium which spent its last years as a huge out-
door market. After the market closed many of the vendors
relocated here, making it the capitals largest, most diverse
daily outdoor market. Expect to nd loads of tat, clothes,
foodstus, perfumes, toys and a few oddities of dubious or-
igin. With over 500 pavilions and 700 market stalls, its a fun
place to just wander around and soak up the atmosphere.
To get there take bus 141, 189 or 401 to the Hynka stop;
or trams 7, 9, or 15 to Wochy-Ratusz. Qul. Bakalarska 11
(Wochy), tel. (+48) 22 846 51 79, www.naszrynek.eu.
Open 07:00 - 17:00.
FOOD & SWEETS
Food-wise Poland has plenty of edible delights that will
tempt (or shock) your friends, from delicious sausages and
preserves to jars of smalec (yep, thats spreadable lard for
your bread). Dine in true Polish style long after youve leapt
the border by bringing home traditional staples or any
number of the hearty sweets that end every Polish meal.
NEW
CUKIER LUKIER
Warsaws very own Willy Wonka style boiled candy factory
selling a vast range of naturally avoured sweets. Choose from
a great range of taste-bud tickling avours, including kiwi,
rhubarb, aniseed and almost any berry you care to mention.
Lollipops come individually wrapped in all shapes and sizes,
from classic whirly-twirly designs through to hearts and roses
for that special sweet toothed person in your life. Demonstra-
tions of the candy making process are held four times a day
and the whole shop can be booked for private demonstrations
and lollipop workshops, a great idea for a creative kids party.
QB-4, ul. Emilii Plater 10, tel. (+48) 605 66 00 05, www.
cukierlukier.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
SAM
If youre looking to stock up on fresh produce, roasted cof-
fee beans, the best homemade breads and all the neces-
sary staples for your kitchen you can do no better than
SAM, which is tucked inside this restaurant/bakery near
the University library. Organic and local is the name of the
game, and its always worthwhile to grab a meal before you
lug your haul home.QC-2, ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. (+48) 600 80
60 84, www.sam.info.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00.
Directory Directory
EX-PAT ORGANIZATIONS
ALCOHOLICS ANONYMOUS
QB-4, ul. Radna 14 fat 3, www.warsawaa.org.
FANTASY ROLE-PLAYING GROUP
Qcreativecowboy@outlook.com.
INTERNATIONAL WOMEN'S GROUP OF WARSAW
Qwww.iwgwarsaw.eu.
TOASTMASTERS CLUB
Qtel. (+48) 696 292 451, www.toastmasters.org.pl.
GENEALOGY
NATIONAL ARCHIVE
QB-1, ul. Krzywe Koo 7, tel. (+48) 22 635 92 68,
www.warszawa.ap.gov.pl.
REGISTRY OFFICE
QE-1, ul. Andersa 5, tel. (+48) 22 443 12 30,
www.um.warszawa.pl.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW
Qul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. (+48)
22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org.
ECOLE ANTOINE DE SAINT-EXUPRY
Qul. Nobla 16 (Praga Poudnie), tel. (+48) 22 616 14 99,
www.saint-exupery.pl.
INTERNATIONAL AMERICAN SCHOOL
Qul. Dembego 18 (Ursynw), tel. (+48) 22 649 14 40,
www.ias.edu.pl.
INTERNATIONAL EUROPEAN SCHOOL
Qul. Wiertnicza 140 (Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22 842 44 48,
www.ies-warsaw.pl.
PRE-SCHOOL THREE LANGUAGES
QC-2, ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 and 2, tel. (+48) 503 07 21
19, www.3languages.pl.
THE BRITISH SCHOOL
Qul. Limanowskiego 15 (Mokotw), tel. (+48) 22 842 32
81, www.thebritishschool.pl.
THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE
Qul. Pywiaska 14A (Mokotw), tel. (+48) 22 843 93
70, www.theenglishplayhouse.com.
INTERNET CAFES
ARENAQF-4, Pl. Konstytucji 5, tel. (+48) 22 629 07 76,
www.arenacafe.pl. Open 24hrs.
SOUND GARDEN CONFERENCE CENTER
QD-7, ul. wirki i Wigury 18, tel. (+48) 22 279 14 07,
www.soundgardenhotel.pl.
CONSULATES & EMBASSIES
AUSTRALIAQB-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. (+48) 22
521 34 44, www.australia.pl.
AUSTRIAQH-5, ul. Gagarina 34, tel. (+48) 22 841 00
81, www.ambasadaaustrii.pl.
CANADAQC-4, ul. Matejki 1/5, tel. (+48) 22 584 31 00,
www.canada.pl.
FRANCEQG-4, ul. Pikna 1, tel. (+48) 22 529 30 00,
www.ambafrance-pl.org.
GERMANYQG-4, ul. Jazdw 12, tel. (+48) 22 584 17
00, www.warszawa.diplo.de.
IRELANDQC-4, ul. Mysia 5, tel. (+48) 22 849 66 33,
www.embassyofreland.pl.
ISRAELQF-4, ul. Krzywickiego 24, tel. (+48) 22 597 05
00, www.israel.pl.
ITALYQF-2, Pl. Dbrowskiego 6, tel. (+48) 22 826 34
71, www.ambvarsavia.esteri.it.
LITHUANIAQG-3, Al. Ujazdowskie 14, tel. (+48) 22
625 33 68, pl.mfa.lt.
NETHERLANDSQH-4, ul. Kawalerii 10, tel. (+48) 22
559 12 00, www.nlembassy.pl.
NORWAYQG-4, ul. Chopina 2a, tel. (+48) 22 696 40
30, www.amb-norwegia.pl.
RUSSIAQG-5, ul. Belwederska 49, tel. (+48) 22 621 34
53, www.rusemb.pl.
SPAINQG-4, ul. Myliwiecka 4, tel. (+48) 22 583 40 00,
www.exteriores.gob.es.
SWEDENQG-5, ul. Bagatela 3, tel. (+48) 22 640 89 00,
www.swedenabroad.com/warsaw.
UNITED KINGDOMQG-4, ul. Kawalerii 12, tel. (+48)
22 311 00 00, www.gov.uk/government/world/poland.
USAQG-4, Al. Ujazdowskie 29/31, tel. (+48) 22 504 20
00, poland.usembassy.gov.
EMERGENCY ROOMS
SZPITAL KLINICZNY DZIECITKA JEZUS
QA-4, ul. Lindleya 4, tel. (+48) 22 502 20 00, www.
szpital-clo.med.pl.
24-HOUR DENTISTS
CCS LUDNAQG-3, ul. Ludna 10a, tel. (+48) 22 625 01
02, www.ccsludna.pl.
DENTALUXQD-6, ul. Racawicka 131, tel. (+48) 22 823
72 22, www.dentalux.pl.
24-HOUR PHARMACIES
APTEKA
QG-5, ul. Puawska 39, tel. (+48) 22 849 82 05,
www.apteka.jollymed.pl.
APTEKA BEATA
QE-2, Al. Solidarnoci 149, tel. (+48) 22 620 08 18.
BUSINESS ASSOCIATIONS
AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QF-3, Warsaw Financial Centre, ul. Emilii Plater 53, tel.
(+48) 22 520 59 99, www.amcham.pl.
BRITISH POLISH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QB-4, ul. Marszakowska 89, www.bpcc.org.pl.
CONFERENCE CENTRES
NATIONAL STADIUM
QH-2, Al. Ks. J. Poniatowskiego 1, tel. (+48) 22 295 95
55, sprzedaz@2012plus.pl, en.stadionnarodowy.org.pl.
CURRENCY EXCHANGE
Currency exchange o ces (Kantor) are easy to nd
in Warsaw, but as with any international destination,
its imperative to check the rates to ensure you arent
getting eeced. The general rule is you should never
change your money at city entry points, particularly at
the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To help
put your mind and your wallet at ease, weve assem-
bled a list of well-located exchange o ces that wont
rip you o, and dont take a commission.
AUREXQC-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 33, tel. (+48) 22 626
92 60, www.aurex.biz. Open 24hrs.
KANTORQA-4, Zote Tarasy, ul. Zota 59 (level 0),
tel. (+48) 22 222 12 34. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 21:00.
CYBER CAFEQul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Courtyard
by Marriott), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 72, www.
courtyardwarsawairport.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00.
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
EDU&MOREQB-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 44 lok.7, tel.
(+48) 22 622 14 41, www.polishonlinenow.com.
THE CENTRE FOR POLISH STUDIES
QB-3, ul. Szpitalna 5/213, tel. (+48) 22 826 19 04,
www.learnpolish.edu.pl.
POST OFFICES
CENTRAL POST OFFICE
QA-3, ul. witokrzyska 31/33, tel. (+48) 22 505 32 18,
www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.
POST OFFICE
QC-4, Pl. Trzech Krzyy 13, tel. (+48) 22 629 72 69, www.
poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
PRIVATE CLINICS
DAMIAN HOSPITALQG-3, ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. (+48) 22
566 22 22, www.damian.pl.
LUX-MED Also at ul. Domaniewska 41a, ul. 17 Stycznia
49, Al. Jana Pawa II 78 (E-1) and ul. Bobrowiecka 1 (H-6).
QA-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.
(+48) 22 33 22 888, www.luxmed.pl.
REAL ESTATE
KNIGHT FRANKQC-3, ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. (+48)
22 596 50 50, www.knightfrank.com.pl.
LOCO REAL ESTATE AGENCYQA-4, ul. Sienna 72A
lok. 1101, tel. (+48) 515 000 145, www.n-loco.com.
OBER-HAUS REAL ESTATE ADVISORS
QB-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 123a (Millenium Plaza, 1st
foor), tel. (+48) 22 116 65 00, www.ober-haus.pl.
TERRANUMQtel. (+48) 662 65 69 30, biuro@
terranum.pl, www.terranum.pl.
RELIGIOUS SERVICES
ST PAUL'S ENGLISH SPEAKING CATHOLIC PARISH
QC-3, ul. Radna 14, tel. (+48) 600 38 49 16, www.
warsawcatholics.pl.
RELOCATION COMPANIES
AGS WORLDWIDE MOVERS
Qul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 702 10 72,
www.agsmovers.com.
Hotels Hotels
SOFITEL WARSAW VICTORIA
Q B-3, ul. Krlewska 11, tel. (+48) 22 657 80 11, www.
softel-victoria-warsaw.com. 343 rooms (160 singles, 170
doubles, 52 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). P O T
H A R 6 U F L G K D C W h h h h h
THE WESTIN WARSAW HOTEL
Q A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 21, tel. (+48) 22 450 80 00, www.
westin.pl/en. 361 rooms (345 singles, 345 doubles, 15
suites, 1 Presidential Suite). P T H A R 6 U F
G K D W h h h h h
UPMARKET
HILTON WARSAW HOTEL & CONVENTION CENTRE
Q E-3, ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. (+48) 22 356 55 55, www.
warsaw.hilton.com. 314 rooms (303 singles, 303 dou-
bles, 10 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). P O T H
A R 6 U F L G K D C w W h h h h
MERCURE WARSZAWA CENTRUM
Q A-4, ul. Zota 48/54, tel. (+48) 22 697 39 99, www.
mercure.com. 338 rooms (23 singles, 305 doubles, 10
suites). P T H A 6 U F L G K D W h h h h
MERCURE WARSZAWA GRAND
Q C-4, ul. Krucza 28, tel. (+48) 22 583 21 00, www.mercure.
com. 299 rooms (86 singles, 207 doubles, 6 apartments).
P T H A R 6 U F G K W h h h h
NOVOTEL WARSZAWA CENTRUM
Q B-4, ul. Marszakowska 94/98, tel. (+48) 22 596 00
00, www.accorhotels.com. 742 rooms (50 singles, 679
doubles, 12 suites, 1 apartment). P T H A R U
F G K D W h h h h
POLONIA PALACE HOTEL
Q B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. (+48) 22 318 28 00,
www.poloniapalace.com. 206 rooms (198 singles, 198
doubles, 7 suites, 1 apartment). P T H A R 6 U
F G K D w W h h h h
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
T Child-friendly H Conference facilities
R Internet in room U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre L Parking on site
K Restaurant w Wellness
D Sauna C Swimming pool
6 Animal friendly W Wi- connection
J City centre location
MEET THE CONCIERGE
Dear Guests, visitors to War-
saw and readers of Warsaw
In Your Pocket,
As concierges were often
faced with the questions:
What to do? Where to go?
What to see? Well here come some answers for the
months ahead.
If youre in Warsaw during April or May you should
know about a very educative exhibition called Bodies
Revealed. It is open throughout both months and oers
a huge amount of information about the human body.
If you prefer a dierent kind of entertainment I would
recommend visiting the Congress Hall in the Palace of Sci-
ence and Culture - especially on April 11 when it will host
the Irish show - Gaelforce Dance. Once youve heard Irish
folk music youll never forget it and when its accompanied
by superb dancers it makes it all the more memorable.
The second date in your calendar should be the April 26
as the same venue hosts a show entitled Movie Music
Concert. Included in the programme of music will be
the compositions of Hans Zimmer and John Williams.
For those of you looking to listen to classical music
I would recommend the annual Festival of Ludwig
Van Beethoven. Running from April 6 to 18, the War-
saw Philharmonic will host the 18th Festival and it has
plenty to oer with musicians from Poland and all over
the world performing every day.
While April is the month when the weather is uncer-
tain, May is usually the time when you are encouraged
to spend time outdoors. My rst suggestion is to visit
the illuminated Fountains Park although at press time
the performance schedule is not known. Please ask
your concierge to check that for you.
May can be the most beautiful month of the year as
one can feel the unique freshness in the air. To expe-
rience this, I strongly recommend a stroll in the Royal
Lazienki Park or for something a little more challeng-
ing then why not rent a bike for the day and visit the
Kampinos forest which neighbours the city in the north
and which nowadays is a National Park and reservation.
After a long and intensive day of exercise, business
meeting or sightseeing I suggest taking a trip up to the
Jacuzzi on the 43rd oor of our hotel (the Interconti-
nental Warsaw), where you can enjoy breathtaking
views of Warsaw and contemplate what youve heard
and seen in our city that day.
However you spend your time in our city, I wish you a
pleasant stay and dont forget that my colleagues and I
are there to help make your visit pass as smoothly and
as enjoyably as possible. Do not hesitate to ask us for
help or advice.
Lukasz Ciemuchowski
Concierge
INTERCONTINENTAL WARSAW
Warsaw is a business city rst and foremost, and occupancy
rates reect that. Prices dip the moment the clock hits
Friday, 5pm, and youll nd some great discounts available
if you hunt around online. A good place to start is at
warsaw.inyourpocket.com where our Hotel Calculator
scours booking engines for the best rates based on your
criteria (you can thank us later). The Warsaw hotel market
reects the citys image as the corporate briefcase of Eastern
Europe and comes well equipped with ve star oerings as
well as a new breed of options for thrifty travellers. Warsaw
now has a group of Golden Keys concierges and their
tips for the coming months can be found in our Ask the
Concierge box.
CREAM OF THE CROP
HOTEL BRISTOL WARSAW
Q C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 42/44, tel. (+48)
22 551 10 00, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl. 206 rooms
(168 singles, 168 doubles, 37 apartments, 1 Paderewski
Suite). P T J H A R 6 U F G K D C W
h h h h h
INTERCONTINENTAL
Q A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48) 22 328 88 88,
www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. 414 rooms (336
singles, 336 doubles, 78 apartments, 1 Presidential
Suite). P T H A R 6 U F L G K D C w W
h h h h h
MAMAISON HOTEL LE REGINA WARSAW
Q B-1, ul. Kocielna 12, tel. (+48) 22 531 60 00, www.
mamaison.com. 61 rooms (58 singles, 58 doubles, 1
Penthouse, 1 Le Regina Suite, 1 Presidential Suite).
P T J H A R U F G K D C W h h h h h
MARRIOTT
Q B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. (+48) 22 630 63 06,
www.warsawmarriott.pl. 523 rooms (428 singles, 427
doubles, 31 suites, 60 apartments, 3 Vice Presidential
Suite, 1 Presidential Suite). P O T H A R 6 U
F L G K D C w W h h h h h
REGENT WARSAW HOTEL
Q G-5, ul. Belwederska 23, tel. (+48) 22 558 12 34. 246
rooms (88 singles, 129 doubles, 17 suites, 1 Diplomatic
Suite, 1 Presidential Suite). P T H A R 6 U F
L G K D C w W h h h h
RIALTO
Q F-4, ul. Wilcza 73, tel. (+48) 22 584 87 00, www.rialto.
pl. 44 rooms (6 singles, 27 doubles, 11 apartments).
P T H A R 6 U F G K D W h h h h h
SHERATON WARSAW HOTEL
Q C-4, ul. Prusa 2, tel. (+48) 22 450 61 00, www.sheraton.
pl/en. 350 rooms (326 singles, 326 doubles, 18 suites, 5
apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). P T H A R 6
U F L G K D W h h h h h
IN YOUR POCKET MOBILE
In Your Pocket is now available on all smartphones
via our responsive mobile platform, found at
m.inyourpocket.com. Featuring more than 100 cities
across Europe, In Your Pocket Mobile is an invaluable
resource which puts our unrivalled content together
with the technical capabilities of todays smartphones.
In Your Pocket Mobile allows you to view all venues in a
city on a map, quickly showing which are the closest
to your current location. Smart lters can be used to
ensure that only those places which matter to you are
displayed. You can also leave comments about venues,
as well as rate them, right in the mobile platform. You
can even share your comments with your friends via
the most popular social networks. Point your phones
web browser to m.inyourpocket.com now.
HOTEL CALCULATOR
Get the Best Rates on poland.inyourpocket.com
The concept of In Your Pocket has always been
to provide our readers and website users with as
much relevant information as possible about the
city they are visiting and to allow them to make
up your own minds. In addition to the hundreds of
hotel listings, with full descriptions and up-to-date
details (researched every 2-4 months), available on
our website - poland.inyourpocket.com - we also
oer a hotel price comparison function on our
website. Called HotelCalculator, this free service
compares hotel prices for the nights selected from
across dozens of dierent web booking engines
such as bookings.com, activehotels.com, laterooms.
com and hoteladvisor.com. You are then presented
with the best rates available online, which are often
well below the o cial rack rates. Once you select the
rate you want, you are transferred to the relevant
site, through which you book directly. It couldnt
be simpler, more eective or more in keeping with
our policy of providing unbiased information to our
readers. Take a look at poland.inyourpocket.com the
next time you are searching for a room in Poland and
see what In Your Pocket with HotelCalculator can nd
for you.
Hotels Hotels
Full contents online:
METROPOL
Q F-3, ul. Marszakowska 99a, tel. (+48) 22 325 31 00,
www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. 192 rooms (176 singles,
176 doubles, 16 suites). T A 6 U G K W h h h
BUDGET
START HOTEL ATOS
Q H-7, ul. Mangalia 1, tel. (+48) 22 207 70 00, www.
hotelatos.pl. 231 rooms (231 singles, 106 doubles, 109
triples). T H A R 6 U L G K W h h
APARTMENTS
P&O APARTMENTS
Q B-2, ul. Miodowa 12 lok.22, tel. (+48) 513 10 33 41,
www.pandoapartments.com.pl. 55 rooms (55 apart-
ments). A 6 G W
RESIDENCE ST. ANDREWS PALACE
Q B-4, ul. Chmielna 30, tel. (+48) 22 826 46 40, www.
residencestandrews.pl. 24 rooms (24 apartments).
P T A R G W
ROOMMATE APARTMENTS
Q B/C-4, ul. Hoa 27A/9, tel. (+48) 608 38 86 71, www.
myroommate.pl. 6 rooms (6 apartments). T A U G
W
HOSTELS
HOSTEL 36
Q ul. Bokserska 36 (Mokotw), tel. (+48) 22 207 90 00,
www.hostel36.pl. 144 rooms (83 singles, 58 doubles).
T A R 6 G W
OKI DOKI
Q B-3, Pl. Dbrowskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 828 01 22, www.
okidoki.pl. 37 rooms (1 single, 14 doubles, 2 triples, 8
quads, 100 Dorm beds). T A 6 G W
AIRPORT HOTELS
COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT WARSAW AIRPORT
Qul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 00,
www.courtyardwarsawairport.com. 236 rooms (113
singles, 121 doubles, 2 apartments). PTHAR
UFGKW hhhh
HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS WARSAW AIRPORT
Q ul. Poleczki 31 (Ursynw), tel. (+48) 22 373 37 00,
www.hiex-wa.com. 124 rooms (124 singles, 124 dou-
bles). P T H A U G W h h h
SOUND GARDEN HOTEL
Q D-7, ul. wirki i Wigury 18, tel. (+48) 22 279 14 11,
www.soundgardenhotel.pl. 206 rooms (201 singles, 161
doubles, 5 apartments). P H A 6 U G W h h h
Are you tired of staying in standard hotels?
Feel at home in P&O Apartments in Warsaw.
P&O Apartments offers you accommodation for rent
in the center of the City for overnight stays or for lon-
ger visits and helps you to feel at home in Warsaw.
We offer professional service, quality and excellent
locations as well as competitive pricing.
land line +48 22 219 51 06,
mobile +48 513 103 341
e-mail: booking@pandoapartments.eu
Internet: www.pandoapartments.com.pl
For sun lovers we offer properties for
Sale & Rental on the Costa Del Sol in Spain.
Visit our new and modern office
in Marbella on Costa del Sol or call us
+34 663 652 145; +34951245424
Internet: www.pandoapartments.es
email: costadelsol@pandoapartments.es
RADISSON BLU CENTRUM HOTEL
Q A-3, ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. (+48) 22 321 88 88, www.
radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw. 311 rooms (284 singles,
284 doubles, 26 apartments, 1 Presidential Apart-
ment). P T H A R 6 U F G K D C w W
h h h h h
RADISSON BLU SOBIESKI HOTEL
QE-3, Pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. (+48) 22 579 10 00, www.
radissonblu.com/sobieski-warsaw. 435 rooms (60 sin-
gles, 328 doubles, 40 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite).
PTHAR6UFGKDwW hhhh
MID-RANGE
BEST WESTERN HOTEL FELIX
Q ul. Omulewska 24 (Praga Poudnie), tel. (+48) 22 210
70 00, www.bwfelix.pl. 228 rooms (96 singles, 121 dou-
bles, 5 triples, 3 suites). T H A R 6 U L G K W
h h h
BEST WESTERN HOTEL PORTOS
Q H-7, ul. Mangalia 3a, tel. (+48) 22 207 60 00, www.
bwportos.pl. 230 rooms (230 singles, 156 doubles, 8
suites). T Y H A R 6 U L G K W h h h
CAMPANILE
Q E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 582 72 00, www.
campanile.com.pl. 194 rooms (194 singles, 194 dou-
bles). P T A 6 U G K W h h h
CASTLE INN
Q B-2, ul. witojaska 2 (entrance from Pl. Zamkowy),
tel. (+48) 22 425 01 00, www.castleinn.pl. 22 rooms (3
singles, 18 doubles, 1 triple). T H A 6 G W
GOLDEN TULIP WARSAW CENTRE
Q E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 582 75 00, www.
goldentulipwarsawcentre.com. 143 rooms (142 singles,
142 doubles, 1 apartment). P T H A 6 U F G
K D W h h h h
IBIS WARSZAWA CENTRUM
Q D-2, Al. Solidarnoci 165, tel. (+48) 22 520 30 00,
www.accorhotels.com. 189 rooms (189 singles, 189
doubles). P T H A 6 U G K W h h
MDM
Q F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22 339 16 00, www.
hotelmdm.com.pl. 134 rooms (21 singles, 108 doubles,
5 suites). T H A 6 U G K W h h h
DISCO POLO!
No, its not an equestrian sport involving bell-bot-
tomed jockeys (good guess, though), Disco Polo is
a rather peculiar and uniquely Polish sub-genre of
dance music. In fact you may have already been ex-
posed to it without even realising it. It could have been
blaring from a suped-up Fiat Duze rolling by, pulsing
from a radio in a abka convenience store or been the
soundtrack to that local wedding you attended a few
months back.
This cult genre rst emerged in the early 90s as folk
musicians and wedding bands nally were able to
upgrade their antiquated audio gear and buy some
shiny new keyboards with built in drum machines (and
70s disco presets). By mixing a little Italo Disco (read:
Eurotrash Techno) into their Casiotone folk-anthems,
a music revolution was born. Disco Polo quickly con-
quered every wedding hall, village disco and nightclub
throughout the land. The mainstream media soon piled
on and it was celebrated as a uniquely Polish form of
pop. By 1995 there were Disco Polo programmes on
every major radio and television station and even for-
mer Polish President Aleksander Kwasniewski used a
Disco Polo song during his presidential campaign that
year. Times were good and Disco Polo labels like Blue
Star and bands such as Bayer Full, Boys and Shazza
were pumping out the hits and rolling in the zlotties.
But alas, the good times couldnt last forever.
Disco polo was scoed at from the very beginning by
the likes of intellectuals, music critics and professional
musicians who viewed it as hokey and primitive (which
it was/is). The tide began to turn for the genre as a
whole when a few scandals involving disco polo artists
and local maa bosses started to make headlines in 96
and 97 (it was estimated that at the height of the Disco
Polo boom upwards of 70% of the Disco Polo market
was controlled by the Polish maa). These scandals co-
incided with a huge drop in cassette and CD sales. By
the late 90s the wedding party was o cially over and
the long national hangover had begun. Public opinion
and the mainstream media quickly turned and openly
derided and lampooned the jovial genre.
Nowadays, the Disco Polo genre is about as respected
as Country & Western or Smooth Jazz. Nonetheless,
much like these similarly maligned musical outliers,
Disco Polo artists continue to break album sales records
and tour regularly despite being the butt of almost
every musical joke. The truth is, while its been o cially
cool to make fun of Disco Polo for the better part of
a decade, its every red-blooded Poles guilty pleasure.
If you want to see for yourself, watch what happens
when a DJ spins the Boys smash hit Jeste Szalona
[Yes-Tesh Shah-lone-uh] at a wedding, disco or night-
club near you. Viva la Disco Polo!
Street Register
Boutique
Mercure
Warszawa
Centrum
H15
P
a
r
k
in
g
o
w
a
Radisson BLU
Mostowski
Palace
Krasiski
Palace
Warsaw
Uprising
Monument
Little
Insurgent
Monument
St. Anne's
The Great
National
Theatre
Lubomirski
Palace
Tomb of
the Unknown
Soldier
Warsaw
University
Chopin
Museum
National
Museum
Polish Army
Museum
Bkitny
Palace
The
Armoury
Warsaw
City Hall
1 - ul. Nowomiejska
2 - ul. Piesza
3 - ul. Fandaminskiego
1
2
3
1 Sierpnia D-6/7
29 Listopada H-4
Aleje Ujazdowskie C-4, (G-3/5)
Andersa, gen. A-1/2 (E-1/2)
Anielewicza A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Archiwalna D-5
Armii Ludowej, al. F/H-4
Bagatela G-4/5
Bagno B-3
Banachago D/E-5
Bankowy, pl. A-2 (F-2)
Barbary, w. B-4, (F-3)
Barokowa B-2
Barona D-2
Batorego E/F-5
Bednarska B/C-2
Bellottiego D-2
Belwederska G-5/6
Biaa A-3 (E-2)
Biaobrzeska D-4/5
Bielaska B-2 (F-2)
Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. D-4/5
Bobrowskiego D-5
Boduena B-3
Bohaterw Getta A-2 (E/F-1)
Bohdanowicza D-6
Bole B-1
Bonifraterska A/B-1
Bracka C-4
Browarna C-2/3 (G-2)
Brylowska D-3
Brzeska H-1
Brzozowa B-1
Bugaj B-1/2
Bytnara F-6/7
Canaletta B-2
Celna B-1/2
Chaubiskiego A/B-4 (F-3/4)
Chemska H-6
Chodna A-3 (D/E-2)
Chmielna A-4, B/C-3/4, (E-3, F-3)
Chocimska G-5
Chodkiewicza E-5/6
Chopina G-4
Ciasna B-1
Ciepa A-3 (E-2)
Cicha C-3
Corazziego B-2
Czackiego B-3 (F-2)
Czerniakowska G/H-3
Czerska H-5/6
Czeska H-2
Dbrowskiego, pl. B-3 (F/G-6)
Dawna B-1/2
Delad, pl. B-4 (F-3)
Dickensa D-5
Duga A/B-1/2 (F-1)
Dugosza D-2
Dobra C-2/3 (G-1/2)
Dobrzaskiego A-3
Dolna G-6
Drewniana C-3
Dubois A-1 (E-1)
Dzielna A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Dzika D/E-1
Elektoralna A-2/3 (E-2)
Emilii Plater A/B-3/4 (F-3)
Esperanto E-1/2
Etiudy Rewolucyjnej E-7
Filtrowa E-4
Floriaska G-1
Foksal C-3 (G-3)
Franciszkaska A/B-1
Francuska H-2
Frascati C-4
Fredry B-2 (F-2)
Freta B-1 (F-1)
Furmaska C-2 (F/G-2)
Gagarina G/H-5
Gaczyskiego C-3
Gamerskiego B-2
Geodetw D-5
Gsta C-2
Gibalskiego D-2
Grnolska H-3
Grska H-5/6
Grskiego B/C-3
Goszczyskiego F/G-6
Goworka G-5
Graniczna B-3
Grodzka C-2
Grjecka D/E-4/6
Grzybowska A-3 (E/F-2/3)
Grzybowski, pl. A/B-3
Grzymay D-4
Hoa B/C-4 (F/G-3)
Hynka D-7
Idzikowskiego G/H-6/7
Inancka A-1
Iwicka H-5
Jaktorowska D-3
Jana Pawa II, al. A-2/4, (D/E-1/3)
Jana Sobieskiego G/H-5/6
Jasielska D-6
Jasna B-3, (F-2/3)
Jazdw G-4
Jerozolimskie, Al.
A/C-3/4, (D/G-2/4)
Joliot-Curie F-7
Kacza D-2
Kaliska D-4
Kanonia B-2
Kapitulna B-2
Karasia C-3
Karmelicka A-2 (E-1/2)
Karolkowa D-2/3
Karowa C-2 (F/G-2)
Kasprzaka D-3
Kazimierzowska F-5
Kpna H-1
Kiliskiego B-1/2
Klonowa G-5
Kopotowskiego G-1
Kolberga F-7
Kolejowa D/E-3/4
Konduktorska G-6
Konopnickiej C-4
Konstytucji, pl. F-4
Konwiktorska A/B-1
Kopernika C-3
Kopiska D-4
Korotyskiego D-6
Kocielna B-1 (E/F-1)
Koszykowa E/G-4
Kotlarska D/E-2/3
Kozia B-2
Kola B-1 (F-1)
Krakowskie Przedmiecie
B/C-2/3, (F-2)
Krasickiego F/G-7
Krasiskich, pl. B-2 (F-1)
Krasnocka H-5
Kredytowa B-3 (F-2)
Krochmalna A-3 (E-2)
Krlewska B-3 (F-2)
Krucza C-4 (F/G-3)
Kruczkowskiego C-3 (G-2)
Krywulta C-3
Krzywe Koo B-1
Krzywickiego E-4
Ksica C-4 (G-3)
Kubusia Puchatka C-3
Kusociskiego G/H-4
Kwiatowa F-5
Ldowa G-5
Lechicka D-7
Lenartowicza F/G-6/7
Lennona G-4
Leszczyska C-3
Leszno D-2
Leszowa E/F-4/5
Lewartowskiego A-1/2 (E-1)
Lindleya A-4 (E-3/4)
Lipowa C-2
Litewska G-4
Lubelska H-1
Ludna G/H-3
Ludowa G-6
Lwowska F-4
azienkowska H-4
ucka A-3 (E-3)
Madaliskiego F/G-5/6
Majewskiego D-5
Maachowskiego, pl. B-3
Malczewskiego F/G-6
Mariaska A-3
Mariensztat C-2
Markowska H-1
Marszakowska B-2/4 (F-2/4)
Matejki C-4
Mazowiecka B-3 (F-2)
Miczyska E-6/7
Miedziana A-4 (E-3)
Mia A-1 (D/E-1)
Miobdzka E-6
Miodowa B-2 (F-1)
Mireckiego D-2
Mirowski, pl. A-3 (E-2)
Mynarska D-2
Mokotowska C-4 (G-3/4)
Modawska D-6
Moliera B-2 (F-2)
Moniuszki B-3
Mostowa B-1 (F-1)
Muranowska A-1 (E-1)
Mysia C-4
Myliwiecka G/H-4
Na Rozdrou, pl. G-4
Na Skarpie, al. G-3
Nabielaka G-5
Nalewki A-1/2
Narbutta F/G-5
Narutowicza, pl. D-4
Nehru H-5
Niecaa B-2, (F-2)
Niemcewicza D/E-4
Niepodlegoci, al. F/G-4
Niska A-1, (D/E-1)
Niska D/E-1
Niyskiego Pasa B-3
Nowiniarska B-1
Nowogrodzka A/C-4 (E/F-3)
Nowolipie A-2 (E-2)
Nowolipki A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Nowowiejska E/G-4
Nowy wiat C-3/4 (G-2/3)
Obona C-3
Obozowa D-2
Oczki E/F-3/4
Odolaska F/G-6
Odyca F/G-6
Ogrodowa A-3 (E-2)
Oklnik C-3
Okopowa 1/2-D
Okrg G/H-3
Okrzei G-1
Oleandrw F/G-4
Olimpijska E-6
Olkuska G-6
Olszewska G-5
Olszowa G-1
Ondraszka E-4/5
Opolski, pl. D-2
Ordynacka C-3 (G-2)
Orla A-2/3 (E-2)
Orowicza G-3
Ossoliskich B-2
Padewska G-6
Panieska G-1
Paska A-3/4 (E-3)
Parkowa G-5
Pasteura D-4/5
Paszyna D-1
Pawia A-2 (D/E-2, E-1)
Pawiskiego D-5/6
Pereca A-3 (E-3)
Piaseczyska G-6
Piekarska B-2
Pikna F/G-4
Pisudskiego, marsz. pl. B-3 (F-2)
Piwarskiego G/H-6
Piwna B-2
Patowcowa E-6
Platynowa E-3
Podchorych G/H-5
Podwale B-1/2 (F-1)
Pokorna A-1
Polna F/G-4
Poniatowskiego, ks. Al. H-2
Powzkowska D-1
PowstacwWarszawy, pl. B-3
Poznaska B-4 (F-3)
Promenada G-5/6
Prosta A-4 (D/E-3)
Prna B-3
Prusa C-4
Pruszkowska D-6
Przechodnia A-2/3
Przemyska D-5
Przyokopowa D-3
Przyrynek B-1
Ptasia A/B-3 (F-2)
Puawska G-5/7
Puku Baszta F-7
Pytlasiskiego G-6
Racawicka D/E-6
Radna C-3
Rajcw B-1
Rakowiecka E/G-5
Raszyska E-4
Rejtana G-5
Rokitnicka E-5
Rostaskich E-5
R, al. G-4
Rana F/G-5/6
Rozbrat G-3
Rycerska B-2
Rynek Nowego Miasta B-1 (F-1)
Rynek Starego Miasta B-1/2
Rysia B-3
Sandomierska G-5
Sanguszki B-1
Sanocka D-5/6
Sapieyska A/B-1
Sasanki D-7
Senatorska B-2 (F-1/2)
Schillera B-2 (F-1)
Siedmiogrodzka D-3
Sielecka H-5/6
Siemieskiego D-5
Sienkiewicza B-3
Sienna A-4 (E-3)
Skaryszewska H-1
Skaryskiego D-5
Skierniewicka D-3
Skorochd D-5/6
Sawiska D-3/4
Soneczna G-5
Supecka D-4
Smocza D/E-1/2
Smolna C-3/4
Sokola G/H-1/2
Solec G/H-2/3
Solidarnoci, al.
A/C-1/3, (D/G-1/2)
Sosnowa A-4
Spacerowa G-5
Spartaska E-7
Spiska D/E-4
Srebrna F-3
Stara B-1
Starociska F/G-5
Starynkiewicza, pl. E-3
Staszica D-2
Stawki A-1 (D/E-1)
Stefana Batorego E/F-5
Stpiska H-5/6
Sulkiewicza G-5
Szara G-3
Szarych Szeregw D-3
Szczliwicka D-4
Szczygla C-3
Szkolna B-3
Szpitalna B-3/4
Szucha, al. G-4
Szwoleerw H-4
liska A-4
witojaska B-2
witojerska A/B-1/2 (E/F-1)
witokrzyska B/C-3 (E/G-2/3)
Tagorea F-6
Tamka C-3 (G-2)
Targowa G/H-1
Teatralny, pl. B-2 (F-2)
Tomackie A/B-2
Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza
B-2/3
Topiel C-3
Towarowa D/E-2/3
Traugutta B/C-3
Trbacka B-2
Trojdena, ks. D/E-5
Trzech Krzyy, pl. C-4 (G-3)
Tuwima C-3
Twarda A-3/4 (E-3)
Tyniecka G-6/7
Unii Lubelskiej, pl. G-4/5
Ursynowska F/G-6
Wa Miedzeszyski H-2/3
Walecznych H-2
Walicw A-3 (E-2/3)
Waowa A-1/2 (E-1)
Warecka B/C-3 (F-2)
Waryskiego F/G-4/5
Wski Dunaj B-2
Wawelska D/F-4
Widok B-4
Wiecha Pasa B-3/4
Wiejska C-4 (G-3)
Wierzbowa B-2 (F-2)
Wiktorska F/G-6
Wilanowska H-3
Wilcza B/C-4 (F/G-3/4)
Wileski pl. G-1
Willowa G-5
Winnicka D-5
Wiolarska H-3
Wilana C-2
Wilicka D-5/6
Winiowa F/G-5, F/G-6
Witosa, al. H-6/7
Wodna B-1
Wjtowska B-1
Wolno D-2
Wooska E/F-6/7
Wolska D-3
Woronicza E/G-7
Wronia E-2/3
Wsplna A/C-4 (F-3)
Wybrzee Gdaskie
B/C-1/2, (F-1)
Wybrzee Helskie C-1 (G-1)
Wybrzee Kociuszkowskie
C-2, (G-1/2)
Wybrzee Szczeciskie
C-1/2, (G-1/2)
Zbkowska H-1
Zajcza C-3 (G-2)
Zakroczymska B-1
Zamenhofa A-1/2 (E-1)
Zamkowy, pl. B-2 (F-1)
Zamoyskiego H-1
Zapiecek B-2
Zawiszy, pl. E-3
Zbawiciela, pl. F-4
Zbierska G/H-5/6
Zgoda B-3/4
Zieleniecka, al. H-1/2
Zielna B-3
Zimna A-3
Zota B-3, A/B-4 (E/F-3)
Zoli G-4
Zwycizcw H-3
elazna A-3/4 (E-2/3)
elaznej Bramy, pl. A/B-3 (F-2)
urawia B/C-4 (F/G-3)
wirki i Wigury D/E-4/7
ytnia D-2
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Index
12 Stolikw 36
22 Bistro Burger 46
99 Restaurant & Bar 46
Adam Mickiewicz Monument
73
Adam Mickiewicz Museum of
Literature 78
Adventure Warsaw 71
A Footbridge of Memory 100
Agnieszka Osiecka Monument
88
Alchemy Day Spa 111
American Bookstore 114
Anka Rancho Horse Riding 111
Anytkwariat Lamus 114
Aquapark Wesolandia 111
Arco Bowling Alley 110
Aroma Espresso Bar 57
Art Gallery Amber Silver Line
113
Atelier Amaro 46
Bar Mleczny Familijny 33
Bar Warszawa de Luxe 60
Bears 88
Beirut Hummus & Music Bar 59
Belvedere Palace 92
BEST WESTERN Hotel Felix 122
BEST WESTERNHotel Portos 122
Besuto 43
Biaa G 48
Bielaski Bank 104
Biosfeera 56
Bistro Pigalle 33
Blikle Caf 57
Bodegas Santa Rufina 113
Bolesawiec Pottery 116
British Bulldog Pub 59
BrowArmia 36
Buddha Indian Restaurant 34
Bufet Centralny 36
Buildings 89
Burger Kitchen 29
Butchery & Wine 54
By Bus 95
Bydo i Poido 54
Caf 6/12 31
Caf Baobab 29
Cafe Kulturalna 59
Cafe Prna 57
Caf Vincent 57
Campanile 122
Casa Pablo 53
Castle Inn 122
Cepelia 116
Charles de Gaulle Monument
73
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 33
China Garden 32
Chopin Benches 107
Chopin Monument 107
Chopin Monument & Temple
of Sibyl 92
Church of the Assumption
of the Virgin Mary and of St.
Joseph 70
City Sports Club 111
C.K. Obera 34
Club Capitol 65
Club Mirage 65
Coctail Bar Max 59
Concept 36
Copernicus Science Centre 90
Courtyard by Marriott Warsaw
Airport 123
Coyote Bar & Night Club 67
Cross-monument 74
Cuda na Kiju 59
Cukier Lukier 116
Dawne Smaki 48
Dom Polski 48
Dos Tacos 54
Dyspensa 49
Eastern Station Warsaw 70
Eat Warsaw 71
Ekskluzywne Alkohole M&P
113
Empik 114
Ethnographic Museum 78
Execution Sites 104
FACTORY Outlet Annopol 117
FACTORY Outlet Ursus 117
Folk Gospoda 49
Franck Provost 111
Fusion 34
Galeria aBo Art 114
Galeria Bursztynek 113
Galil 45
Gallery of Paintings, Sculpture
and the Decorative Arts 78
Giancarlo Ristorante Italiano 41
Golden Tulip Warsaw Centre
122
Golf Park Driving Range 110
Goshico 115
Grand Kredens 36
Green Bar 56
Green Peas Eco Bar & Coffee 56
Halka restauracja po polsku 49
Hard Rock Cafe 29
Helicopter.pl 111
Hilton Warsaw Hotel &
Convention Centre 121
Historical Museum of Warsaw
78
Holiday Inn Express Warsaw
Airport 123
Holy Cross Church 70
Hostel 36 123
Hotel Bristol Warsaw 120
Hoa by Mondovino 30
Hulakula Bowling Alley 110
Hulakula Leisure Centre 110
Hydrozagadka 59
Ibis Warszawa Centrum 122
Ichiban Sushi 43
Inaba 43
InterContinental 120
Invisible Exhibition 81
Jan Kiliski Monument 74
Jesuit Church 71
Jewish Historical Institute 100
Jzef Pisudski Monument 74
Kamanda Lwowska 55
Kaskrut 36
Kava & Vino 62
Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery
43
King Sigismund's Column 75
Klaps 59
Klubokawiarnia Resort 31
Koo Bazar 117
Kociuszkowcw Monument
89
Kraken Rum Bar 59
Krlikarnia 78
Kuchnia Funkcjonalna 36
Kufle i Kapsle 60
La Pancia Piena 41
Lapidarium 114
La Via 53
azienki Park 92, 106
Le Bistro Rozbrat 33
Le Cedre 84 45
Legends British Bar &
Restaurant 32
Leniviec 57
Leniwa Gospodyni 33
Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne
33
Libido Gentleman's Club 67
Literatka 49
LOKAL.BISTRO 50
Madras 35
Mamaison Hotel Le Regina
Warsaw 120
Marriott 120
MDM 122
Meat Love 38
Mercato 41
Mercure Warszawa Centrum
121
Mercure Warszawa Grand 121
Metro Jazz Bar & Bistro 63
Metropol 123
Mleczarnia Jerozolimska 33
Moliera 2 115
Monument to the Ghetto
Heroes 100
Index
FEATURES INDEX
Currency Exchange 118
Facts & Figures 18
Fotoplastikon 76
Healthy Eating 31
Jan III Sobieski 97
Jazz 63
Language Smarts 19
Market Values 18
Meet the Concierge 121
Milk Bars 33
Polish Easter 73
Polish Snacks & Shots 60
Presidential Palace 81
Royal Castle 83
Saski Palace 80
Steak 54
The Eastern Wall 74
Train Smarts 12
Warsaw Street Murals 72
Warsaw-Modlin Airport 13
Wine Bars 62
You Light Up My Life! 8
Monument to the Warsaw
Uprising 104
Museum of Hunting and
Horsemanship 93
Museum of Independence 79
Museum of John Paul II
Collection 79
Museum of Polish People's
Movement 79
Museum of Priest Jerzy
Popieuszko 80
Museum of Technology 87
Muu Muu 54
Mylewicki Palace 93
Namaste India 35
Namaste India Clay Oven 35
Natara 55
National Museum 80
National Stadium Tours 70
Neptunea 116
New Orleans Gentlemen's
Club 67
Nicolaus Copernicus
Monument 75
Nike 75
Norma 34
Novotel Warszawa Centrum121
Noyk Synagogue 100
Nu Jazz Zone 63
Obera Pod Czerwonym
Wieprzem 50
Oki Doki 123
Okopowa Street Jewish
Cemetery 100
Ole Tapas Steak Restaurant 53
Opera 65
Orthodox Church of St. Mary
Magdalene 89
OSP Saska Kpa 60
Osteria 52
OTO!SUSHI 44
Palace of Culture and Science
87
Palace on the Island 93
Panorama Bar & Lounge 60
Papaya 55
Park & Gardens 96
Parking Bar 60
Paros 45
Pestka Organic Bistro 31
Pikna Bistro 63
Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel 57
Piw Paw 61
Plan B 61
Platinium Club 65
Pl. Trzech Krzyy 3/4 115
P&O Apartments 123
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra 61
Polish Army Museum 81
Polonia Palace Hotel 121
Poster Museum 96
Potocki Mausoleum 97
Praga Tourist Information 89
Przekski Zakski 60
Pure Health and Fitness 110
Radisson Blu CentrumHotel 122
Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel 122
Regent Warsaw Hotel 120
Relax Cafe Bar 57
Residence St. Andrew's Palace
123
Restauracja Kultura 38
Restauracja Oliva 46
Restauracja Rana 50
Restauracja Wilanw 38
Rialto 120
Rock Shop 116
Roma 42
Roma Bukieteria 42
Ronald Reagan Monument 75
Room 13 Club & Lounge 65
Roommate Apartments 123
Rycki Bazaar 89
Ruins of the Rising 104
Ry i Ryba 44
Salto 30
SALVE 38
SAM 116
SAM Bakery & Restaurant 39
Sapper Monument 104
Segway City Tours 70
Senses 46, 50
Sheesha Lounge 35, 65
Sheraton Warsaw Hotel 120
Silver Line 114
Skandal Bistrobar 62
Skwer - filia Centrum
Artystycznego Fabryka Trzciny
39, 63
Sony 51
Sofia 67
Sofitel Warsaw Victoria 121
Sokotra 46
Solec 44 39
Sol y Sombra 53
SomePlace Else 30, 63
Soto Sushi 44
Sound Garden Hotel 123
Soviet War Memorial 89
Sowa & Przyjaciele 51
Specjay Regionalne 51, 116
Spin City 110
Squash City 111
St. Anne's Church 97
Stara Kamienica 39
Start Hotel Atos 123
St. Benno's Church 72
St. Casimir's Church 72
St. Francis Seraph Church 72
St. John the Baptist Cathedral
72
St. Mary's Church 73
Strefa Restaurant & Bar 40
Sts. Michael & Florian
Cathedral 89
Sungate Beauty & Spa 111
Syrena 76
Tadeusz Kociuszko
Monument 76
Targ Dobrego Jedzenia w
Fortecy 117
Targowisko Bakalarska 117
Tebe 117
TFH Tymczasowy Butik 115
Thai Thai 55
Theatre on the Island 94
The Chopin Family Drawing
Room 106
The Little Insurgent
Monument 104
The Pictures Art Bar Cafe 63
The Westin Warsaw Hotel 121
The Wilanw Palace Museum
96
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
76
Tomo Sushi 44
Tourist Information 79
Traces of the Ghetto 100
Trattoria Da Antonio 42
Trattoria Rucola 42
U Fukiera 52
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum
Of Modern Art/CSW) 94
U Szwejka 32
VITKAC 117
Warsaw City-Tour 70
Warsaw Tortilla Factory 54, 63
Warsaw Uprising Museum 103
Warszawa Powile 63
Warszawa Wschodnia 52
Wasabi 45
Wawel 57
White House & Orangery 94
Wilczeniec Country Club 111
Winestone 40
Winiarnia Restauracja
Superiore 40, 62
Winosfera 62
W.Kruk 114
Wodny Park 111
W Oparach Absurdu 63
Wygodny Rower 110
Zbkowska 89
Zapiecek 52
elazowa Wola - Birthplace
107
Zote Tarasy 117
Znajomi Znajomych 65
Zoo 111
urawina Rest & Wine 40

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