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1.0 SCOPE 8391-ZA-C05-0009-F-V R evision A AL MUSAIRIE NATIONAL PROCEDURE FOR SUPERSTRUCTURE This document describes

1.0 SCOPE

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PROCEDURE FOR SUPERSTRUCTURE

This document describes the work activities associated with superstructure such as block works, plastering, painting, carpet and vinyl installation, door and window fixing, ceiling installation, plumbing works, inspection, and management of materials during construction and shall be read in conjunction with the relevant Engineering Standards & drawings, Industry codes and any other additional requirement as set forth by the client.

2.0 RESPONSIBILITIES

Project Manager: Ensure compliance by all parties to this procedure, inspection plans, materials, client specifications, drawings and industry codes.

Site Engineer: Ensure compliance by all craftsmen to the requirement of this work instruction, relevant specification and QC Inspection Requirement. Confirm the availability of all resources necessary to complete the work in a timely manner.

Safety Supervisor: Examine the site, become familiar with all existing condition, and evaluate the conditions with respect to performance of the work. Ensure compliance to this procedure, client specifications, drawings and health, safety & environment plan.

3.0 PROCEDURE

3.1 Concrete Block

This part of the procedure explain how to lay bricks and/or blocks, stone Masonry, instruction in laying out and/or spacing bonds; determining vertical and horizontal alignment of courses using gauges, plumb-bubs, and levels; and cutting, notching, and shaping blocks, bricks, and stone to construct or repair walls, partitions, arches etc.

The concrete block wall system is made up of just two basic block shapes, corner blocks and regular blocks. These two block shapes are modified as needed, which support the load over doors and windows, and which are used to make stem walls.

This procedure creates a flat, tight wall that is stable both during construction and as a finished product. This kind of construction has a built-in requirement on any given wall, the two corners must be built first, and then the regular blocks are placed in between. If the wall length is a few inches too long to be right for the block leave spaces between the blocks in each row to make up the difference, and then form over the openings before grouting the wall. This actually strengthens the wall, since each vertical channel is getting an increased load of grout.

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Having the opposite situation from the one above, and the wall is a little shorter than what would be a perfect fit for the last block in a given row, then cut the block to the size needed. Also cut a vertical half channel to allow the grout to flow. This method also strengthens the wall, since it effectively brings the grout channels closer together.

3.2 Plastering Works

The operation of hand applying plaster begins when the plaster for the scratch coat is placed on a mortarboard. The plasterers shall verify that the plaster is properly mixed by kneading it on the board. The plasterer then shall remove the plaster from the board, puts it on the hawk, and begins plastering the base surface. For vertical surfaces, plastering can be done from bottom to the top of the work area, or from top to bottom. The direction depends on the type of work being done and local practice.

After transferring some of the plaster from the hawk onto the trowel, the plasterer shall lay the plaster on the surface. Enough pressure is applied to obtain good contact between plaster and base surface. This procedure continues until the entire surface is plastered to the desired thickness. Excessive troweling or movement of the scratch coat plaster must be avoided as it is being applied, too much surface action will break the bond created between the plaster and the base, whether concrete, masonry, or metal lath.

The scratch coat should be uniformly scored in a horizontal direction on the vertical surfaces and in one direction on ceilings; shallow scratching is adequate.

Floating of the coat is the most important part of plastering. Floating must be done only after the plaster has lost sufficient moisture so that the surface sheen has disappeared and before the plaster has become so ridged that it cannot be moved under the float. This interval is critical, since the degree of consolidation that occurs during floating influences the shrinkage- cracking characteristics of the plaster.

3.3 Painting Works

3.3.1Safety

This procedure specifies the minimum requirements to be undertaken in the areas of Painting. This document is not only details procedures which are designed to protect the safety and health of painters but also to minimize the impact on other staff and the environment.

Authorized spray painting only after health, safety and environmental considerations are taken into account, and where there are means to reduce its impact to acceptable levels. Spray painting may only be conducted by those persons who are familiar with the procedures of spray painting and those outlined in this document.

During the process of painting, persons may be exposed to a variety of substances, which may have implications to their safety and health.

AL MUSAIRIE NATIONAL 3.3.2 Personal Protective Equipments 8391-ZA-C05-0009-F-V R evision A Personal protective equipment

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3.3.2Personal Protective Equipments

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Personal protective equipment shall be personal issue to reduce the risk of spread of diseases, and encourage care and maintenance. It is the responsibility of the owner of this equipment to maintain it in a good working condition.

It is management’s responsibility to provide the appropriate personal protective equipment. The following are the personal protective equipment required for personal safety while applying paint with a brush or roller are Coveralls or overalls, Gloves. In some circumstances barrier cream may be used. Appropriate footwear and hat when painting to keep paint droplets out of ones hair.

When paint is mixed, transferred or there is a risk of splashing safety glasses or goggles must be worn. When paint must be mixed for application by brush or roller, this must be done in a well ventilated area.

The cleaning of equipment must be carried out in a well ventilated area. Gloves must be worn when solvent is used.

3.3.3

Exterior Painting

3.3.3.1

Preparation

Refrain from painting when temperature is below 50° F and avoid painting in threatening weather -- a shower can ruin a fresh coat of paint.

Solvent-thinned paints should not be applied over damp surfaces. This will lead to blistering and peeling.

Prior to painting make sure to have enough paint to complete an entire section. Mix the paint thoroughly. Always stir before and during use.

3.3.3.2 Procedure

Using a Brush: Begin painting on the side of the building that will remain in the shade until you have finished. Direct sun causes rapid drying, interferes with the leveling qualities of the paint, and produces lap marks, particularly with latex paints. Dry blisters will develop with oil-based paints, especially with dark colors, if the sun (or strong wind) causes the surface of the paint to dry too rapidly.

Finish with the trim. Shutters can be removed, painted, and re-hung when the job is completed. Coat window sash and door panels first, and then paint the window frames, sills and door trim. Any paint on the putty line of the window will serve to protect the puttied surface from water, try to overlap onto the glass. Excess paint can be scraped off with a razor blade to create a clean edge.

8391-ZA-C05-0009-F-V R evision A AL MUSAIRIE NATIONAL A vertical technique is appropria te for shingled

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A vertical technique is appropriate for shingled surfaces. The shingles provide natural breaking points, so painting in vertical sections is convenient.

On horizontal siding, work from side to side beginning at the top. Minimize lap marks by painting four to five sections across until completed.

Coat as much length of the section as comfortably reach, then flip to the wider portion of the brush and coat the surface of the section. When loading your brush with paint. Immerse the first 1/3 of the bristles into the paint and tap the brush lightly side-to-side against the inside of the can. Do not drag the bristles across the lip of the can; this will rob your brush of half its paint carrying capacity.

When applying with a brush, use long, smooth strokes. Oil-based house paint should be brushed back and forth several times for a well spread, even coat. If paint gathers along the horizontal edge of the clapboard, paint is being applied too heavily or is not being adequately brushed out. Latex paints do not require much brushing. These paints dry quickly, and excessive brushing will cut deep brush marks permanently into the paint film. When using latex, apply paint generously, give it one or two back strokes and leave it to dry.

Paint will build up on the heel of the brush, where the bristles meet the ferrule. To eliminate this excess, occasionally drag the heel of the brush over the lip of the can several times.

Using a roller: Roller application works well for porous surfaces such as masonry and stucco. Dip the roller in the 5 gallon bucket and roll it up and down on the grid to remove excess paint. If it drips when picked up, it is overloaded.

Screw on a threaded pole 4' or so and you can easily roll out walls. A roller is ideal for flat surfaces, but will not fit into inside corners and will deposit too much paint on edges of outer corners. Apply paint to those areas first, (cutting in) with a brush to ensure good coverage. Use long even strokes, rolling in different directions to coat the entire surface. Finish off with strokes in one direction.

When you take a break, wrap brushes/rollers with plastic to keep paint from hardening or developing a skin. Replace the lids on open cans.

3.4 Carpet & Vinyl Laying

Floor preparation: All sub-floors must be smooth and level, free of dirt, wax and old adhesives. Replace or patch old vinyl tiles, strip all waxes, and fill in grout lines of ceramic floors if applicable. Sand or scrape ridges of old adhesives. Old cutback adhesives should be removed or flashed over with a flashing compound. Cracks or depressions should be filled with a premium grade latex patching compound. Do not use water-mixed underayments. Once the carpet has been checked and all the necessary site preparations have been completed, layout according to the seaming diagram and proceed with careful attention to dye lot placement and roll sequencing.

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If patterned products are involved, be sure to refer to which calls for laying out all the carpet before spreading any adhesive to avoid any pitfalls that could arise from standard pattern size variation.

Layout: Based on the floor plan and seaming diagram, start near the center of the room and snap a chalk line between opposite walls. This will be the first seam. Ideally, all the carpet should be laid out, squared with the dominant walls, rough cut to fit and side seams trimmed before any glue is spread. Dry laying is especially critical on all patterned products. Patterned products must be sequenced according size variation to allow for any pattern size variation.

Variation occurs to some extent in all patterned carpets. If these measurements are unavailable for any reason, the installer should count the number of patterns in a 10 ft length on each roll and then arrange the rolls to facilitate a pattern match.

Proper power stretching reduces the potential for the carpet to later buckle or wrinkle during shifts in humidity levels. Buckling can usually be traced to inadequate stretching during the initial installation. Buckling can create a tripping hazard as well as accelerate carpet wear and cause the backings to separate or delaminate. Power stretching and proper cushion selection reduces the potential for buckling. Properly specified padding can extend the carpet's life. However, excessively thick or soft cushion can cause delaminating and buckling.

Cracks and holes must be patched with approved patching method and materials.

In order to spread adhesive throughout the room and allow for a single set up time, an additional perpendicular line should be established and squared from the center line of the room to run through doorways. Care should be taken to measure a distance equal to an even number of modules from the room’s center line to a point in the doorway. That point in the doorway will determine where the first tile is installed. By establishing a line through the doorway and perpendicular to the centered chalk line grid in the room, adhesive can be spread in the room. The installer can spread back through the doorway and begin a square installation in the doorway without having to track back through the adhesive.

Once the chalk lines have been established at right angles in the center of the room, install only one nexstep module. This first module should be snugly in the corner formed by the 90° angle of the chalk lines with two sides of the Nexstep module aligned along two chalk lines of one quadrant. Repeat procedure on remaining quadrants.

3.5 Windows Fixing

Prepare the opening. Remove all obstructions, such as loose materials etc. If the opening is severely out of square, fill it in, leveling the bottom sill and plumb the sides, before installing the new window or door.

Install the new window level, plumb, and square. Use a level to plumb the unit.

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To make sure it is square, adjust until both diagonal measurements are the same or open the slider just past the edge of the sash channel and adjust until the gap is even along its entire length. Anchor the window securely.

If the window is not squared or level, the sash will not close properly, and the weather stripping may not be able to provide an adequate weather seal.

First, make sure the sill jamb is level. Then, with the window centered in the opening and the bottom secured, open the sash just past the edge of the frame and check to see if the gap is uniform all along the edge. If it is not, adjust the jambs until the gap is even, and secure them near the top. As midpoint anchors are installed in the jambs, check for vertical alignment again to be sure the jambs have not bowed in or out.

Failing to support the retrofit window frame properly, particularly across the bottom, can cause the frame to contort and allow the sill to sag. This will result in such problems as rough sash operation, incomplete closure, leakage of air and water around the sash.

Support the frame and follow general good workmanship practices. Permanent shims should be doubled (one wedge placed upon another, oriented in opposite directions) so pressure is evenly distributed across the entire width of the frame. Driving in a single wedge can exert excessive force on one edge of the frame, causing it to twist.

Proper frame support is especially important along the sill jamb, because the bottom of the window must be level and stable. For windows other than vinyl, install a minimum of two bottom shims at quarter points. Support vinyl windows along the entire bottom surface with solid stock, such as slat shims. If you use spaced shims, the vinyl sill may sag between supports which will probably cause the sash to operate roughly in horizontal sliders.

For box frame windows, which have no mounting flange, the anchors usually penetrate the jambs inside the sash or screen pocket. Wood windows are usually attached with casing or finish nails or with wood screws installed through predrilled holes. Anchor box frame vinyl and aluminum windows with screws. Screws provide greater control and allow for adjustments to prevent the frame from bending. Anchors must penetrate solid material such as structural framing. Countersink anchors installed through wooden jambs.

Insulate gaps between the retrofit frame and the rough opening. Fill the cavity between the retrofit frame and the rough opening with foam backer rod or loosely packed insulation. Never use expanding foam. The seal must be continuous and should be tooled to fill gaps and to remove air pockets and excess material.

3.6 Doors Fixing 8391-ZA-C05-0009-F-V R evision A AL MUSAIRIE NATIONAL Verify that opening is plumb,

3.6 Doors Fixing

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Verify that opening is plumb, square and level. Measure the finished opening size grasp the frame on the sides, lift and tilt toward you, move the door system into the opening, setting the threshold down first and then tilting the unit up into the opening. Push the door and frame towards the hinge side of the opening. Check hinge jamb to make sure it is plumb and level. Install wood attachment screws, one in each corner and check for proper fit of the unit if installing mounting screw cover. BEFORE YOU BEGIN Remove tie strap from door latch bore. Open door and remove margin spacing clips plumb hinge side using level and t-square; make any necessary adjustments to verify squareness and placement of the frame. Install the balance of the wood attachment screws into every hole.

3.7 Ceiling

This procedure determined the location for the ceiling. A general rule of thumb is that the ceiling should be located at least three inches below the joists or as specified in the drawing. This will allow enough room to tilt the panels so that you can install or remove them.

Make a level mark around the room. Although you can use a long level to place the marks, you can also use laser level to make the job easier. Mark a level line on the wall at the height you plan to hang the ceiling. Measure the length of the wall and cut wall molding to length with tin snips.

Fasten the molding to the wall using fence staples or similar, placed approximately 16 inches apart or as per drawing requirements, determine the layout by drawing a diagram. Base the diagram on the actual measurements of the room. Design the layout so that the tiles next to the wall are at least six inches wide. If possible, design the layout so that the main runners are perpendicular to the joists. Using the diagram as a reference, mark layout lines on the wall for the main runners.

Use a drill with an eyebolt adapter to drive eyebolts into the joists. The eyebolts will be used to support the main runners and should be spaced 48 inches apart or as specified; if the main runners are perpendicular to the joists and the joists are on 16- inch centers, then the eyebolts can be placed on every third joist. Eyeball the placement of the eyebolts to keep them in as straight a line as possible. You can also stretch a piece of string between the two ends to act as a reference.

Wrap a piece of suspension wire through each eyebolt, pulling it taut so that it hangs in a straight line. Position the first main runner along the layout line. Make sure it's parallel to the wall and clamp it in place. Place the next runner along the layout line, but do not clamp it in place. Set cross pieces into the slots on the runners and lock them in place.

8391-ZA-C05-0009-F-V R evision A AL MUSAIRIE NATIONAL Check the runners and cross pieces for square

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Check the runners and cross pieces for square by measuring the diagonals to be sure they're even. Clamp both ends of the second main runner and attach the suspension wires to the runner. Secure the runners in place with pop rivets.

Because the metal of the runners is soft, you can use a pop rivet punch to make the job easier. Repeat the procedure for each runner until you complete the grid. Finish the job by installing the tiles.

3.8 Plumbing Works

3.8.1 Installation Installation must be carried out in accordance with the contract specification for the installation of thermoplastics pipes and associated fittings for use in domestic hot and cold water services and heating systems and for design, installation, testing and maintenance of services supplying water for domestic use within buildings and their curtilages. If a joint beneath the floor is unavoidable, a compression fitting in accordance with the specification.

Fittings with compression ends for use with plastics pipes must be used. As all plastics materials expand and contract with temperature change, allowance in pipe runs should be made on installation to accommodate expansion and contraction of the pipe.

To ensure successful jointing, pipe ends should be cut smoothly and squarely. This can be achieved with purpose-made copper pipe cutters. A hacksaw may be used but the pipe ends may then need trimming or filing to allow easy insertion of the pipe support sleeve.

Pipe may be used with any standard Size compression fitting. Place the insert in the pipe, and the nut and olive on the outside diameter of the pipe. Push the pipe and olive into the fitting. Screw the nut tight to complete the compression joint.

For sharp bends, standard elbow fittings should be used. Where bends of 50 mm radius are required it is often quicker, neater and cheaper to use a standard 15 mm x 90 angle bracket. Gentle bends may be made by the use of pipe clips on either side of the bend, positioned to maintain the bend radius. The use of pipe bending springs and skilled manipulation is not required. The pipe should not be heated with a blow lamp or hot-air gun.

Clips should be positioned adjacent to fittings wherever possible, making allowance for expansion and contraction of the pipe work. Where pipe is to be surface mounted and visible the following clipping distances are recommended: Where pipe is to be boxed-in or installed under floors or in loft spaces, clipping distances can be increased or the clips omitted altogether if the pipe is adequately supported by other means.

Pipe is a tough material that needs no greater protection from accidental damage when installed than conventional copper. As with copper pipe should be sleeved when passing through walls and protected from nails, when placed under floorboards or buried under plaster. Pipe is stabilized to withstand limited exposure to ultraviolet radiation or sunlight, but is not designed for permanent direct exposure. Under such conditions painting or lagging is required.

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The system should be pressure tested before the concrete screed or sand/cement is laid over the pipe or conduit. Screeds should be laid in accordance with the relevant specification requirements.

When commissioning the system it must be flushed with water, the pump started or valve be open and residual air removed by opening the bleed valves in each circuit. The system must be checked for leaks after all the air has been removed and before the pipes are covered. To minimize the risk of damage to pipe runs associated with nailing through floor decks, the pipe runs should be kept clear of room perimeters and doorways.

4.0 SUPPORTING DOCUMENTS

8391-NS-G01-M

Project Health, Safety & Environment Plan Standard for Fire Protection & Safety Equipment On Site Control of Materials Architectural Building Material, Finishes and Fitting

KOC_L_009

8391-ZB-708-F

015-RH-100

Prepared by:

Jesus

M. Corre

QA/QC Manager (Name & Sign)

Date:

Approved by:

Tareq

Abdo

Date:

Business Development Manager (Name & Sign)