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THE art OF SEWING
ACCESSORIES:
FREE Purse Sewing Patterns, Bag Sewing
Patterns + Scarf Sewing Patterns.
PAGE 1 OF 12
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1 2
3 4
Silk + Pearls
Clutch
Waterfall
Scarf
Mosaic
Silk Scarf
Sashiko
Saddle Bag
1
2
3
4
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sewing made modern.
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THE art OF SEWING ACCESSORIES:
FREE Purse Sewing Patterns, Bag Sewing
Patterns + Scarf Sewing Patterns.
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THE PERFECT OUTFIT needs the perfect accessory, and what
could be better than sewing those accessories yourself to
customize them to your outt? Sewing accessories is easy and
quick, making them the perfect small project to sew in an
afernoon and wear out that night. They are also a great way
to practice embellishment and handsewing techniques. And
they make great gifs!
We have collected some of our favorite handbag sewing
patterns and scarf patterns to get your creativity owing.
These free purse sewing patterns and scarf patterns each have
a little twist to them to make them interesting to sew and
stylish to wear. You probably already know how to sew a scarf,
but making that scarf unique with machine embroidery and
fabric manipulation takes it above your basic scarf. And add-
ing sashiko stitching, patchwork, fabric owers, or beading
takes sewing purses to a whole new level.
Silk + Pearls Clutch: This luxurious silk clutch features
elegant fabric ower embellishment with freshwater pearl ac-
cents, making this one of our favorite purse sewing patterns.
1 Silk + Pearls Clutch ...................................... 3
2 Waterfall Scarf............................................... 6
3 Mosaic Silk Scarf .......................................... 8
4 Sashiko Saddle Bag .................................. 10

EDITOR Tricia Waddell
ART DIRECTOR Pamela Norman
ILLUSTRATION Ann Sabin Swanson
PHOTOGRAPHY Joe Hancock
(unless otherwise noted)
PROJECT DESIGNERS
Marlene Blessing , Katrina Loving,
Tricia Waddell
Projects and information are for inspiration
and personal use only. Sew Daily and Stitch
magazine are not responsible for any liability
arising from errors, omissions, or mistakes
contained in this eBook, and readers should
proceed cautiously, especially with respect
to technical information. Interweave grants
permission to photocopy any patterns pub-
lished in this issue for personal use only.
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Find STITCH magazine, and
sewing epatterns and
books in our online store
www.interweavestore.com
Find STITCH magazine, and
sewing epatterns and
books in our online store
www.interweavestore.com
Find STITCH
& sewing
epatterns
visit us online
Find STITCH magazine, and
sewing epatterns and
books in our online store
www.interweavestore.com
Find STITCH magazine, and
sewing epatterns and
books in our online store
www.interweavestore.com
Contemporary sewing
that celebrates the
handmade
lifestyle!
Contemporary sewing
that celebrates the
handmade
lifestyle!
Contemporary sewing
that celebrates the
handmade
lifestyle!
Contemporary sewing
that celebrates the
handmade
lifestyle!
Contemporary sewing
that celebrates the
handmade
lifestyle!
www.interweavestore.com
Find STITCH
& sewing
epatterns
visit us online
Contemporary sewing
that celebrates the
handmade
lifestyle!
www.interweavestore.com
Waterfall Scarf: A silk douppioni scarf gets a creative
twist with shirred and rufed edges allowing you to sculpt
the ends in unique ways.
Mosaic Silk Scarf: Play with fabric and metallic thread
in this scarf featuring silk fabric squares and fringe.
Sashiko Saddlebag: Get creative with Japanese hand-
stitching (sashiko) and Asian print accents in this double-
pouch annel bag.
Youll love making these scarf and bag sewing patterns
and have fun customizing them in your own unique way.
So pull out some fabric and get started sewing accessories
today!
Happy Sewing,
tricia waddell
Editor in chief, Stitch magazine
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THE art OF SEWING ACCESSORIES:
FREE Purse Sewing Patterns, Bag Sewing
Patterns + Scarf Sewing Patterns.
PAGE 3 OF 12
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by KATRINA LOVING
What better way to add a
luxurious touch to your outfit
than to carry this luscious silk
clutch, complete with fresh-
water pearl accents? It features
dual interior zippered pockets
that are roomy enough to carry
the essentials.
FABRIC
Fabrics should be at least 45" (114.5 cm) wide.
1 yd (91.5 cm) silk douppioni or sueded, raw,
or other medium-weight silk fabric for shell
(Main; shown: deep red pintucked douppioni)
yd (46 cm) satin or similar fabric for lining
(Contrast; shown: cream diamond-patterned
satin)
OTHER SUPPLIES

7
8 yd (80 cm) of 20" (51 cm) wide craft-
weight fusible interfacing
yd (68.5 cm) of 20" (51 cm) wide ultra-
rm fusible stabilizer
Scrap of medium-weight fusible interfacing
for snap installation (optional; at least
4" x 2" [10 x 5 cm])
" (2 cm) magnetic snap
Matching and contrasting sewing thread
for Main fabric (shown: red and blue) and
matching sewing thread for Contrast fabric
(shown: cream)
Nine 6.58mm freshwater top-drilled
teardrop pearls or other beads in contrast-
ing color (shown: midnight blue freshwater
pearls)
Two 12" (30.5 cm) zippers (shown: black)
Fabric pen or tailors chalk
Sewing machine needle appropriate
for medium-weight fabrics
Sewing machine needle appropriate
for heavyweight fabrics
Handsewing needle
Fabric pen or tailors chalk
Thimble (optional)
Sharp, sturdy beading needle thin enough
to pass through chosen beads
Zipper foot for sewing machine
Blind hem foot for sewing machine
(optional; see Notes)
Point turner or similar tool (such as a large
knitting needle)
Press cloth
Flat-nose pliers (for installing the snap)
FINISHED SIZE
12" wide x 7" high (30.5 x 18 cm)
when closed
NOTES
All seam allowances are " (1.3 cm)
unless otherwise noted.
For explanations of terms and techniques,
see Sewing Basics at interweavestitch.com
/sewingbasics.
The rosettes are left raw and will fray
slightly. If you prefer a cleaner look, cut
the rectangles slightly larger in Step 1 to
include a small hemming allowance. The
rosettes shown were cut along the selvedge
to create one naturally nished edge, while
the remaining edges were left raw.
It is helpful to use the blind hem foot when
edgestitching. The foot makes it easy to
sew an even, straight edgestitch by running
the built-in guide along the edge of the fab-
ric. Consult your sewing machine manual
for further information on using the blind
hem foot and make sure you are using a
regular straight stitch and have adjusted the
needle position to fall to the left of the guide
and into the edge of the fabric.
Use a press cloth when pressing the silk
and use the appropriate iron setting.
CUT THE FABRIC
1 From the Main fabric, cut:
One 31" long x 13" wide (79.5 x 33 cm)
rectangle for bag body
One 2" long x 13" wide (5 x 33 cm)
rectangle for zipper connector
Four 2" x 1" (5 x 3.8 cm) squares
for zipper tabs
For the rosettes, where uniformity and exact
measurements are not essential, cut the fol-
lowing pieces freehand:
One 14" x 11" (35.5 x 2.53.2 cm)
rectangle
One 10" x 1" (26.5 x 22.5 cm) rectangle
One 10" x
5
8" (25.5 x 1.31.5 cm)
rectangle
One 10" x
5
8
7
8" (25.5 x 1.52.2 cm)
rectangle
2 From the Contrast fabric, cut:
One 29" x 12" (73.5 x 32 cm) rectangle for
the lining
One 9" long x 5" wide (24 x 14.5 cm)
rectangle for phone pocket
One 7" long x 3" wide (18 x 9 cm) rectangle
for credit card pocket
3 Cut one 29" x 12" (74.5 x 30.5 cm) rectangle
from the craft-weight interfacing.
4 Cut two 7" x 11
7
8" (18 x 30.2 cm) rectangles
from the ultra-rm stabilizer.
FOR EXPLANATIONS OF
TERMS + TECHNIQUES USED
CLICK HERE FOR OUR
SEWING BASICS ONLINE
silk + pearls
clutch
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PREPARE THE SHELL
+ INSTALL THE SNAP
5 Center the interfacing rectangle, adhesive
side down, on the wrong side of the bag body
rectangle. Center the interfacing accurately,
leaving 1" (2.5 cm) margins at each end and
" (1.3 cm) margins on each long side of the
Main fabric. Fuse, following the manufactur-
ers instructions, ensuring that the interfacing
is evenly and securely fused.
6 With the interfaced bag body right side
up, nd the center of one short edge, then
measure up from the center point 6" (15 cm)
and mark with a fabric pen or tailors chalk.
Repeat on the opposite end.
7 Install one half of the magnetic snap at each
mark, following the manufacturers instructions.
Optional: Cut the scrap of medium-weight inter-
facing into two 2" x 2" (5 x 5 cm) squares. Place
one of the squares adhesive side down over the
wrong side of the snap (covering the prongs)
and fuse in place, following the manufacturers
instructions and using the tip of your iron to seal
the interfacing around the snap; dont iron the
snap directly. This will keep the prongs from
rubbing directly against and possibly snagging
the lining fabric. Repeat the entire step to install
the other half of the snap at the mark on the
opposite end.
EMBELLISH THE SHELL
Complete Steps 810 with each rosette
rectangle.
8 Using the contrasting sewing thread,
edgestitch along each raw edge; if you prefer a
cleaner look, fold the raw edges under before
edgestitching or complete a narrow
(
1
8" [3 mm]) rolled hem. Leaving at least "
(6 mm) of space along one long edge free of
stitching (between the edgestitching and the
next parallel line of stitching; this will become
the inner edge of the rosette), embellish
the rectangles with a more lines of stitching
parallel to the long edges. The " (6 mm)
space left free of stitching will be used for the
gathering stitches.
9 Set the machine for a gathering stitch
(4.0 mm long) and sew along the strips
length within the " (6 mm) space left free
of stitching.
0 Gather one of the basted rectangles tightly
by pulling gently on the bobbin thread only,
sliding the fabric along the thread with your
ngers and distributing the gathers evenly.
Knot off the thread tails at one end. Bring the
two short ends of the rectangle together and
overlap them to create a circle. Adjust the
gathers for a pleasing result and then pin the
short edges together. Whipstitch the short
ends together by hand, or use a machine
stitch to topstitch around the rosette, along
the ends and across the central gathers,
securing the edges and the gathers in place.
Position the machine stitches slightly closer
to the outer edge to avoid the thickest areas
near the center. Go slowly and adjust the
rosette often, because you will be sewing in
a tight circle. Repeat the entire step to form
rosettes from the remaining rectangles,
figure 1
7"
(19 cm)
1"
(4.5 cm)
stacking the largest rectangle and one of the
others (shown: the 10" x 1" [26.5 x 2 2.5
cm] rectangle) to make the largest blossom.
- With the right side of the bag body facing
up, measure up 7" (19 cm) from one short
edge and draw a line parallel to the short end
with a fabric pen or tailors chalk (make sure
the marks are removable by testing rst on a
scrap). Measure 1" (4.5 cm) from the long
edge on the right, and draw a line parallel to
the long edge (figure 1). You will be attaching
the rosettes in this general area, making sure
that the edges of the rosettes are no closer to
the edges than the lines just drawn. Using a
handsewing needle and matching thread, sew
the rosettes in a group within the marked area,
which will become the bottom front corner of
the bag. Take small stitches through the center
of the rosettes, stitching through all layers to
secure them to the bag body. A thimble will
assist in pushing the needle through the thick
interfacing. Remember to sew a smaller rosette
on top of the largest one for a double-layer
ower, as shown in the sample.
= Using the beading needle and matching
thread, sew the pearls or beads in the centers
of the rosettes, grouping the pearls as desired
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figure 2
(the sample shows groupings of 5, 3, and 1).
Knot the thread securely so that the beads will
stay put; for greatest security, knot the thread
on the project wrong side before and after
each bead, so if one bead is lost the others are
still held fast.
SET IN THE ZIPPERS
Note: Measure each zipper to ensure that they
are 13" (33 cm) long from raw end to raw end.
They will most likely be slightly longer; if this
is the case, trim equally from each end of the
zipper tapes.
q Fold each of the zipper tabs in half length-
wise, with wrong sides together, yielding a
1" x 1" (2.5 x 3.8 cm) piece, and press at.
Place one zipper tab, centered, on top of each
end of one zipper, aligning the raw edges of
the tab with the edge of the zipper tape. Baste
the tabs in place, " (6 mm) from the edge of
the zipper tab. Repeat to baste the remaining
tabs on the other zipper.
w Fold " (1.3 cm) to the wrong side on each
short edge of the shell and press. Pin one
short end of the shell on top of one of the
zipper tapes, right sides up, placing the folded
shell edge
1
8" (3 mm) from the zipper teeth.
Using the zipper foot (refer to your sewing
machine manual for information on using this
foot), edgestitch the shell to the zipper. Start
with the zipper unzipped 23" (57.5 cm), then
when you are close to the zipper pull, leave
the needle down and lift the presser foot so
that you can pull the zipper closed to keep the
zipper pull out of the way. Lower the presser
foot and continue sewing. Repeat the entire
step to attach the remaining zipper to the
opposite short edge. To match the sample,
reverse the direction in which you attach the
second zipper so that the zippers open in op-
posite directions.
e Roll the shell fabric up and over the zip-
per teeth to create a doubled
3
8" (1 cm) fold,
bringing the interfacing into the crease of
the new fold, which will just cover the zipper
teeth. Pin in place, with the new fold lying over
the zipper teeth. With the zipper foot, topstitch
3
8" (1 cm) from the new fold, along the entire
zipper tape. The new stitches lie directly over
the previous stitch line, now hidden under-
neath the fold, creating a small ap that will
just cover the zipper teeth (figure 2). Repeat
to create a ap over the other zipper.
ASSEMBLE THE SHELL
r With the shell right side up, nd the exact
center of the long edges and then mark
1
8"
(3 mm) to the right and left of the center on
both long edges. Fold each short edge, with
its zipper, toward the center, right sides
together, so that each zipper meets the clos-
est mark, leaving a " (6 mm) gap between
the zipper tapes. Pin and then sew the long
edges together. Keep the seam allowances
as accurate as possible, sewing slowly and
carefully over the zipper teeth. Clip the
corners and trim the seam allowances to "
(6 mm). Turn the two pouches right side out;
the interfaced fabric will be stiff, so use a
point turner to gently push out the corners
and smooth the edges.
tInsert one of the ultra-rm stabilizer
rectangles into each pouch, with the ad-
hesive side facing the outer surface of the
bag (the side without the zippers). You may
need to trim the stabilizer slightly to t into
the pouches; the t should be snug without
causing the bag to pucker. To test the t,
insert the stabilizer and then press down
with your hands around all the edges. If the
stabilizer settles at into place with pres-
sure, the t is good. If the stabilizer rolls a
bit at the edges, remove it and trim its edges
slightly, then test again. Flip the shell over
so that the outer (embellished) side is facing
up and, using a press cloth over the silk and
following the manufacturers instructions,
fuse the stabilizer in place from the outside
of the bag, making sure it is securely fused
at the top (near the zipper placement). Work
around the rosettes as closely as you can,
but do not apply the iron directly over the
rosettes. Be careful to fuse evenly to avoid
bubbles in the fabric.
yOnce the stabilizer is in place, install a
larger sewing machine needle and edgestitch
each long edge of the bag, through all layers,
from the topstitching of the zipper ap to the
outer, folded edge, leaving the area between
the zipper aps free of stitching.
ASSEMBLE THE LINING
u Fold the 9" x 5" (24 x 14.5 cm) phone
pocket piece in half widthwise, right sides
together, so that you have a 4" x 5" (12 x
14.5 cm) piece. Pin and sew the three open
edges, leaving a 2" (5 cm) gap in one side.
Trim the corners and turn the pocket right
side out and press, pressing the seam allow-
ances to the wrong side along the gap.
i Fold the lining rectangle in half, width-
wise, to nd the center and crease lightly.
Unfold, then fold in half lengthwise and
crease lightly. Open the rectangle, right side
up, and measure 2" (7 cm) from the cross-
wise crease along one lengthwise crease
and mark. Center the phone pocket side to
side, with its folded edge just covering the
mark. Pin the pocket to the lining, then edg-
estitch around the sides and bottom to close
the gap and secure the pocket to the lining,
leaving the top edge free.
o Fold the 7"x 3" (18 x 9 cm) credit card
pocket in half widthwise, with right sides
together, so that you have a 3" x 3"
(9 x 9 cm) piece. Complete the pocket as
in Step 19. Measure and mark the pocket
placement 2" (5 cm) below the center on the
end of the lining opposite the phone pocket,
as before. The pockets open edges face
each other. Return to the crosswise center
markings on the lining; measure
1
8" (3 mm)
to each side of the center and mark along
the long edges.
p Fold " (1.3 cm) to the wrong side on
each short edge of the lining and press. Fold
each short edge toward the center, right
sides together, so that each edge meets the
closest mark, as in Step 16. There will be a
" (6 mm) gap between the linings folded
edges. Pin and then sew the side edges
together, catching the " (1.3 cm) fold-overs
in the seam. Trim the seam allowances to
" (6 mm) and nish the edges with a zigzag
stitch or serger.
FINISH THE CLUTCH
[ With the lining still inside out, insert the
lining pouches into the shell pouches, push-
ing the lining pouches into place through the
central gap between the zippers.
] Slip-stitch the folded-over edge of each
pouch lining to the zipper tape to which the
shell fabric is sewn, positioning the pressed
fold just over the stitching on the zipper
tape.
\ Fold " (1.3 cm) to the wrong side along
both short edges of the zipper connector
and press. Repeat to press the long edges,
creating a 1" x 12" (2.5 x 30.5 cm) rectangle.
Pin the prepared rectangle on top of the
zipper tapes on the inside of the clutch, right
side up, covering the exposed " (6 mm) of
lining and the edges of the free zipper tapes.
The pressed edges of the connector should
fall beside the zipper teeth. Using the zipper
foot, topstitch along each long edge of the
rectangle, " (6 mm) from the pressed edge.
Finish by slip-stitching the short edges to
the clutch. The zippers will be mostly hidden
but should zip and unzip easily.
KATRINA LOVING is the projects editor for
Stitch and a book editor for Interweave. She
lives in Colorado with her husband, two dogs,
and lots of fabric.
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FABRIC
1 yd (91.5 cm) douppioni silk
OTHER SUPPLIES
Matching high-quality polyester or silk
thread
Fabric pencil or tailors chalk
Silk needle for sewing machine (consult
your manual)
Handsewing needle
FINISHED SIZE
About 66" (168 cm) long x 17" (43 cm) wide
(at center)
FOR EXPLANATIONS OF
TERMS + TECHNIQUES USED
CLICK HERE FOR OUR
SEWING BASICS ONLINE
by TRICIA WADDELL
Douppioni silk gets a creative
texture treatment in this simple
scarf featuring shirred and
ruffled edges. The shirring is
made by gathering the scarf
both vertically and horizon-
tally, allowing you to sculpt the
ends in unique ways.
NOTES
For explanations of terms and techniques,
see Sewing Basics at interweavestitch.com
/sewingbasics.
A subtly contrasting color of thread can be
used instead of a matching thread to accen-
tuate the shirring on the ends of the scarf.
waterfall
scarf
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CUT FABRIC + FINISH SEAMS
1 Cut two pieces of douppioni silk, each 36"
(91.5 cm) long x 18" (45.5 cm) wide.
2 Attach the two fabric pieces along the short
end with a slight variation on a traditional
lapped seam, according to the following
instructions. Fold over the short edge of one
piece " (2 cm) toward the wrong side; fold
over the short edge of the second piece " (2
cm) toward the right side. Overlap the folded
edges as shown in figure 1, so that the right
sides of both pieces are facing up (the raw
edges will be hidden); pin the pieces together.
On each side of the scarf, edgestitch along
the clean folded edge to attach the pieces
together (figure 2). Press at.
3 Now that you have the nished scarf length,
its time to nish the outside border of the
scarf. Fold over " (6 mm) on one long side
and press, then fold over another " (6 mm)
and press. Edgestitch the hem. Repeat the
entire step on the remaining long edge and on
both short ends of the scarf. Press all hems.
CREATE SHIRRED EDGES
4 Using a fabric pencil or tailors chalk and a
straightedge, mark a line across the width of
the scarf, 12" (30.5 cm) from one short end.
Starting at that line, measure and mark a
parallel line every 1" (2.5 cm) toward the short
end until you have 2" (5 cm) left at that end
of the scarf. Along the line farthest from the
end, mark off every 4" (10 cm), and then mark
vertical stitch lines to the end of the scarf at
each of these marks. You will have marked
a checkerboard of 10 horizontal lines and 3
vertical lines (figure 3). Repeat the entire step
at the other short end of the scarf.
5 Using basting stitches (3.0 to 4.0 mm),
stitch along each marked horizontal stitch
line, leaving long thread tails on each end; do
not backtack and be careful to avoid stitching
over the thread tails! Repeat to stitch the 3
vertical stitch lines.
6 To create the horizontal shirring, grasp
the bobbin thread only on the rst line of
stitching and gently slide the fabric along the
thread, toward the center, to gather loosely.
Repeat to gather from the opposite end of the
same stitch line. When you are happy with the
gathers, use a handsewing needle to bring
the top threads through to the back and knot
securely (use a double knot), then trim the
ends. Repeat the entire step for all 10 hori-
zontal stitching lines on each scarf end. Note:
If the thread breaks, remove the stitches and
rebaste along the marked line.
7 Now gently gather the 3 vertical lines of
stitching on each end, as before, to create
interesting sculptural fabric. Adjust the verti-
cal and horizontal shirring, if necessary, until
you are pleased with the look. To nish off the
thread tails from the vertical stitching, knot
and trim the threads along the bottom edge
of the scarf. For the thread tails at the top
1
(2.5 cm)
1 2
3
1
(2.5 cm)
1 2
3
figure 1
figure 2
1
(2.5 cm)
1 2
3
end of the vertical stitching, use a handsew-
ing needle to bring the top thread through to
the back, and then securely knot and trim the
threads as before.
Optional: For added security, set your machine
back to the default length for a straight stitch
and stitch directly over each previous stitch
line. This will set the shirring in place so that
the gathers will not shift.
TRICIA WADDELL is editor in chief of
Stitch.When shes not working shes sewing.
figure 3
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FOR EXPLANATIONS OF
TERMS + TECHNIQUES USED
CLICK HERE FOR OUR
SEWING BASICS ONLINE
mosaic
silk scarf
by TRICIA WADDELL
Create a stunning evening
scarf by combining two
colors of silk douppioni into
a clever mosaic. Sew the
mosaic squares to water-
soluble stabilizer using me-
tallic thread and you have a
unique accessory.
FABRIC

1
8 yd (11.5 cm) each of two complementary
colors of 44" (112 cm) wide silk duoppioni
OTHER SUPPLIES
Sulky Solvy lightweight, translucent water-
soluble stabilizer (7
7
8" [20 cm] wide, 9 yd
[ 8.2 m] roll)
Glamour Madeira Metallic overlock thread in
contrasting or matching color
Matching Metallic Madeira machine embroi-
dery thread
Rotary cutter and self-healing cutting mat
Quilt ruler
FINISHED SIZE
8" (20.5 cm) wide x 56" (142 cm) long
NOTES
All seam allowances are " (1.3 cm)
unless otherwise noted.
For explanations of terms and tech-
niques, see Sewing Basics at interweave
stitch.com/sewingbasics.
CUT OUT + MARK FABRIC
1Cut a handful of 1" (2.5 cm) squares out
of one color of silk duoppioni. Cut handfuls of
1" x 2" (2.5 x 5 cm) rectangles, 1" x 3" (2.5 x
7.5 cm) rectangles, and 1" x 4" (2.5 x 10 cm)
rectangles out of the second color of silk
duoppioni.
2Cut a length of Solvy to the desired length
of your nished scarf (the sample shown is
8" [20.5 cm] wide x 56" [142 cm] long). Begin
pinning squares and rectangles to the length
of Solvy as desired, randomly mixing colors
and sizes. Make sure all the fabric pieces are
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mosaic silk scarf
8
"

(
2
0
.
5

c
m
)
56 " (142 cm)
figure 1
close together (no more than about
1
8"
[3 mm] apart). To create the angled edge of
the scarf, pin the fabric pieces at the same
(not opposite) angle on each end so that the
scarf will have a triangular shape when the
two ends hang together around your neck
(figure 1). Once you have all the fabric pieces
pinned to the Solvy, you are ready to sew.
SEW FABRIC TO STABILIZER
3This scarf uses two different threads simul-
taneously. Thread the heavier overlock thread
through the sewing machine needle. Use
the lighter weight embroidery thread in the
bobbin. This will give you a different textured
effect on each side of the scarf.
4Think of the scarf as a giant grid of 1" (2.5
cm) squares. Machine stitch along the entire
length of the center of each line of mosaic
fabric pieces, removing pins as you go, to
secure the fabric to the Solvy. Dont worry
about making your stitch lines perfectly
straightthe irregularities are what make this
scarf interesting! Backstitch at the beginning
and end of each stitch line. If you want fringe,
leave long thread tails at the beginning and
end of each stitch line.
5Machine stitch along the width of each line
of mosaic fabric pieces at 1" (2.5 cm) intervals
in the center of the mosaic pieces. Backstitch
at the beginning and end of each stitch line.
6Replace the overlock thread in the machine
with the machine embroidery thread. Now you
have the same thread in the needle as you
have in the bobbin. Stitch along the length of
each line of mosaic fabric pieces a bit to the
left of your original line of stitching. This will
help secure the fabric squares together even
more. Backstitch at the beginning and end of
each stitch line. If you want fringe, leave long
thread tails at either end as you did in Step 4.
WASH OUT STABILIZER
7Following the manufacturers instructions,
gently submerge the scarf in water for 30
seconds to 2 minutes. The stabilizer will melt
away. Drain your sink and repeat submerging
the scarf in clean water. This will ensure that
all of the stabilizer washes out of the fabric,
otherwise your scarf will be stiff. Squeeze the
water out of the scarf and hang on a drying
rack to dry overnight. Untangle any fringe.
FINISHING
8Now, dont be afraid when you return to
your scarf in the morning and its crinkled and
frayed! All it needs is a little steam ironing.
Set your iron on the lowest setting for silk
fabric and steam iron each mosaic fabric
piece at. Duoppioni silk naturally frays at the
edges, so let it do what it wants to do. This will
show the contrasting fabric threads. Pull any
loose threads along the edges of the fabric
mosaic pieces throughout the scarf.
9Cut any fringe to desired length.
TRICIA WADDELL is editor in chief of
Stitch.When shes not working shes sewing.
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by MARLENE BLESSING
This saddlebag showcases the
beauty of traditional Japanese
handstitching (sashiko) on fabric
with contrasting thread. Made
of wool flannel Asian prints,
and padded with lightweight
batting, the double-pouch bag
is strong and big enough to
carry all your favorite things.
sashiko
saddlebag
FABRIC
1 yd (1.6 m) of fabric (at least 45" [114.5
cm] wide) for Shell and Strap (shown:
medium-weight wool annel; Main)
1 yd (1.6 m) of print fabric (at least 42"
[106.5 cm] wide) for Lining (shown: cotton
broadcloth print; Contrast A)
yd (46 cm) of contrasting print fabric (at
least 36" [91.5 cm] wide) for Flap (shown:
cotton broadcloth print; Contrast B)
A scrap of contrasting print fabric (at least
5" x 6" [2.5 x 15 cm]) for Appliqu (shown:
cotton broadcloth print; Contrast C)
FOR EXPLANATIONS OF
TERMS + TECHNIQUES USED
CLICK HERE FOR OUR
SEWING BASICS ONLINE
OTHER SUPPLIES
Matching sewing thread
Wound silk thread in contrasting color for
sashiko stitching
1 yd (1.6 m) of medium- to heavy-weight
interfacing
1 yd (1.6 m) of low-loft batting
Large decorative button with shank (heavy
enough to weight the ap; shown here: 1"
[32 mm] round button)
5" (12.5 cm) of 1" (2.5 cm) wide ribbon
(shown: embroidered silk)
Clear acrylic ruler
Fabric pencil
Small plate or bowl, about 5" (14 cm) in
diameter
Handsewing needle
Point turner
FINISHED SIZE
14" long x 11" (37.5 x 30cm) wide. Strap is
44" long x 1" (112 x 3.8 cm) wide.
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NOTES
All seam allowances are " (1.3 cm) unless
otherwise noted.
For explanations of terms and techniques,
see Sewing Basics at interweavestitch.com
/sewingbasics.
Fusible interfacing can be substituted for
the sew-in interfacing, in which case follow
manufacturers instructions for attaching the
interfacing rather than stitching in Step 2.
This bag is not meant to be machine washed
and should be gently spot-cleaned or dry-
cleaned if necessary.
CUT OUT FABRIC
1Cut the following pieces as directed:
Cut one 13" x 59 " (33 x 152 cm) rectangle
each from the Main fabric (for Shell), Con-
trast A fabric (for Lining), interfacing, and
batting. Mark each as follows, referring to
figure 1: Measure 15" (39.5 cm) from one
short edge and mark both the top and the
bottom edges, then use a ruler to connect
the marks with a straight line (this will be a
fold line); label this section as the bag back
with a removable fabric pencil. Measure
15" (40 cm) from the opposite short edge
and mark another fold line in the same
manner; label this section as the bag front.
Cut one 5" x 44" (12.5 x 113 cm) rectangle
from the Main fabric for Strap.
Cut one 2" x 44" (6.5 x 113 cm) rectangle
each from batting and interfacing for Strap.
Cut two 8" x 13" (21.5 x 33 cm) rectangles
from Contrast B fabric and one from batting
for Flap.
Complete the following instructions for each
piece to cut the triangular pieces, referring
to figure 2 for assistance: Fold the rectangle
in half widthwise to nd the center point and
mark. Lay the rectangle at, with the marked
center point at the top, then use the ruler to
draw a diagonal line connecting the bottom
right corner to the marked center point.
Repeat to draw a diagonal line connecting the
bottom left corner to the marked center point.
Cut out the resulting triangle shape.
ATTACH INTERFACING
2Pin the 13" x 59" (33 x 152 cm) interfac-
ing rectangle to the wrong side of the same-
size Shell rectangle, pinning along all four
sides. Machine baste along the pinned edges,
" (6 mm) from the edge. Set aside.
ATTACH APPLIQU
+ ADD SASHIKO STITCHING
3Using a bowl or small plate about 5"
(14 cm) in diameter as a template, draw a
partial circle (slightly more than half) on the
wrong side of the Contrast C fabric or scrap
with the fabric pencil. Use the ruler to draw a
straight line connecting the edges of the half
circle. Cut out the half circle shape (this is
the Appliqu).
figure 1?
diagram A
diagram B
figure 2
figure 1?
diagram A
diagram B
figure 1
15"
(39.5 cm)
bag back bag front
15"
(40 cm)
13"
(33 cm)
54"
(152 cm)
4Place the Shell piece, oriented vertically
and right side up, in front of you, with the short
edge marked as the bag front closest to you.
Pin the half circle Appliqu to the right side
of the Shell (this will eventually become the
left side of the nished bag, once construction
is complete), about 7" (19 cm) above the
short edge, aligning the straight edge of
the Appliqu with the raw edge of the Shell.
Machine baste around the circular raw edge of
the Appliqu " (6 mm) from the edge. Next,
use a wide, loose satin stitch to nish the edge
of the Appliqu (be sure to remove pins rst;
you may want to practice with the satin stitch
on a scrap rst to establish the best width and
length settings).
5You will now be embellishing the bag front
with sashiko stitching between the short edge
and the rst marked fold line. Using the same
bowl or plate used to create the Appliqu,
draw overlapping sets of concentric half
circles, lling the space as desired or refer-
ring to the detail photo below to re-create the
circles appearing on the sample. Start at the
right edge (with the Appliqu) and work your
way across toward the left edge. The inner
concentric circles of each set are drawn by
simply slipping the bowl or plate down " to
" (6 mm to 1.3 cm) each time and drawing
interior lines until each half circle is lled. As
you draw, remember that the short bag end
nearest you, currently at the bottom of the
fabric, will be the top of the bag front.
6Handstitch the traced concentric lines with
a running stitch, using the silk thread. (A single
thread was used in this project, but you can
double the thread if you prefer.) Remove any
remaining pencil lines with water or as directed
by the manufacturer.
ASSEMBLE THE BAG
7Place the Shell in front of you, wrong (inter-
faced) side up, and place the same-size batting
piece on top. Machine baste or zigzag the bat-
center point
13"
(33 cm)
8

"
(
2
1
.
5

c
m
)
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ting in place, through all layers, along all four
sides, about " (6 mm) from the edge.
8Fold the Lining piece (13" x 59 " [33 x
152 cm]) in half widthwise to nd the center
point and mark on both raw edges. Unfold it and
place it at in front of you, right side up. Measure
and mark 1" (2.5 cm) to the left and to the right
of each center mark (figure 3). These marks will
indicate the placement of 2" (5 cm) gaps to be
left open when completing the next step.
9Flip the Shell over so that it is right side
up, and place the Lining piece on top, right
side down (right sides together). Pin in place
along both long edges and the short edge at
the front (embellished side) of the bag. Begin
sewing along the pinned edges, being sure to
leave the marked 2" (5 cm) segments open
and free of stitching; to do this, sew along
the edge until you come to the rst mark
and backtack, then lift the needle, skip over
the 2" (5 cm), lower the needle, and continue
stitching. Leave the short edge at the bag
back open as well. Trim the seam allowances
to " (6 mm) and clip the corners at the bag
front, then turn the bag right side out through
the open end, pushing out the corners with a
point turner. Press the edges well to prepare
for topstitching.
0Topstitch the same three sides of the bag
just sewn, " (6 mm) from the edge (leaving
the short, open edge at the bag front and the
2" [5 cm] gaps free of stitching, as before).
-To create the front pouch, fold the bag along
the bag front fold line, with wrong (lining) sides
together, and pin along both side seams, begin-
ning 2" (6.5 cm) below the short edge. Topstitch
the pinned sides " (6 mm) from the nished
edges, beginning where the pinning began,
2" (6.5 cm) below the short edge. Position the
topstitching directly on the previous topstitching.
Repeat the entire step to create the back pouch,
pinning and then stitching the sides seams 3"
(7.5 cm) below the short edge (the tops of the
two pouches will overlap each other slightly).
MAKE THE FLAP
=Lay the two triangular Flap pieces with
right sides together, and place the triangular
batting on top. Stitch the two diagonal sides,
leaving the 13" (33 cm) base side open. Trim
the seam allowances to " (6 mm), trimming
closer at the point to reduce bulk. Turn right
side out, using a point turner to push out a
sharp point; press. Topstitch " (6 mm) from
the two nished edges.
qFold the top (open) edges of the lined
wool back pouch to the wrong (lining) side
" (1.3 cm), and press. Insert the Flap "
(1.3 cm) deep into the opening of the back
pouch and pin together. (The widest part of the
Flap should align with outside edges of the
pouch.) Topstitch " (6 mm) from the pressed
pouch edge through all layers to close the
opening and secure the Flap.
w Sew the button to the ap, close
to the point.
MAKE THE STRAP
eFold the Main fabric Strap in half length-
wise, wrong sides together, and press. Unfold
the Strap and lay it on a at surface, with the
wrong side facing up. On one side, place the
interfacing Strap piece between the center
crease and the raw edge and pin in place. Ma-
chine baste the interfacing in place, along the
long raw edge of the Strap, about " (6 mm)
from the edge.
r Flip the Strap over so that the right side
is facing up. Measure 12" (30.5 cm) from one
short edge and mark. Using the same small
plate or bowl used to create the Appliqu,
draw two side-by-side sets of partial concen-
tric circles on the interfaced side of the Strap,
between the center crease and the raw edge.
Handstitch the drawn lines with a running
stitch as before.
tPlace the 1" (2.5 cm) wide ribbon on top of
the Strap, positioning it across the width (so
that raw edges are matched), between the
figure 1?
diagram A
diagram B
figure 3
center point
1"
(2.5 cm)
1"
(2.5 cm)
two sets of concentric circles (the ribbon may
overlap the edges of the circles depending
on their placement). Topstitch the ribbon in
place,
1
8" (3 mm) from each long edge of the
ribbon.
yTurn the Strap back over so that the wrong
side is facing up. Pin and then machine baste
the batting to one side of the Strap, as in
Step 15. Fold the Strap in half lengthwise,
with right sides together, along the original
center crease; pin and then sew on all three
open edges, leaving a 10" (25.5 cm) gap in the
middle of the long edge. Trim the seam allow-
ances to " (6 mm) and clip the corners.
uCarefully turn the Strap right side out
through the center gap. (Because the Strap is
made of heavy materials and not very wide,
this can be challenging. Use a large chopstick
or the end of a long, narrow wooden spoon
to help you push the fabric through the gap
without tearing the stitching.) When you have
turned the Strap right side out, turn in the
seam allowances at the gap, and press (use
caution when pressing the wool and use a
damp pressing cloth and the appropriate iron
setting to protect your wool fabric). Topstitch
" (6 mm) from each long edge.
iInsert one end of the Strap into each 2"
(5 cm) opening in the bag, inserting the ends
about " (1.3 cm) into the openings, between
the Shell and the Lining. Make sure that the
Strap isnt twisted, then pin the Strap ends
in place. Topstitch along the openings, "
(6 mm) from the bag edge, in line with the
original topstitching on the side seams.
MARLENE BLESSING is the editorial direc-
tor of books for Interweave. She has recently
returned to her first lovesewingand is
starting to build her fabric stash once more.

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