Angela Osborn

Adventures with needle & thread

Bow Tie
Your beau will be the epitome of sophistication in this dashing bow tie. The
dapper style of this classic bow tie will have him feeling like a true gentlemen.
It ts a 43 cm (17) neck, but you can easily add or subtract a little from the
pattern at the centre back to make a different size if need be.
www.angelaosborn.com.au
Angela Osborn, 2012. All rights reserved.
This pattern and all written instructions, diagrams and photos are intended for the personal use of
the purchaser only and may not be copied, sold, shared with any third party or reproduced with the
intention of selling or proting in any way from the designs contained herein. These original
designs remain the property of Angela Osborn, so please do not sell anything you make using
these designs in Australia or anywhere else.
Hello! Welcome to your new pattern. I hope you have fun making your new
bow tie! Remember to read all of the instructions, take your time and have
regular tea breaks. Tea is an important part of the creative process!
Difculty Rating: Beginner.
Suitable for beginners.
Brief guide to your Angela Osborn pattern:
To use your pattern you will need to print off the PDF pattern. Open the document using Adobe
Reader. If you dont have Adobe Reader, dont panic, it can be downloaded for free from
http://www.adobe.com/products/reader/. When you print out your pattern, always make sure your
printer has plenty of ink and paper. Make sure the page scaling is set to none, (or 100% if
expressed at a percentage). This ensures your pattern will be printed off in the correct size.
Read through the booklet and make sure you have everything you need before you commence
making your project. It might seem like a lot of information, but I think you will nd it helpful. Once
you have all you pieces laid out on your fabric, making sure all the grain lines are parallel to the
selvedge, pin the pattern in place and carefully cut out the pattern in your fabric.
Read the super helpful glossary of stitches, techniques and pattern symbols to help you
understand all the markings on you pattern and the different sewing techniques that you might
come across in the sewing instructions. Now you can follow the sewing instructions to start making
your bow tie! Yay! Remember to follow the instructions carefully and take your time.
Fabric and other bits and bobs you will need:
80 cm of lightweight fabric such as gingham or quilters cotton, which comes in lots of cute
prints. You need a large amount of fabric because its very important that the tie is cut on
the bias. If you use the seamed version of the pattern you can cut the tie out of a smaller
piece of fabric (about 40 cm), you will just have a seam at the centre back of the tie.
80 cm of lightweight iron-on interfacing. (Or 40 cm if using the seamed pattern.)
Thread to match your fabric
Chopstick or narrow paint brush (for turning the tie through)
General sewing requirements
Angela Osborn
Bow Tie
Reference No: A12-101
Page: 2
Angela Osborn, 2012. All rights reserved.
This pattern and all written instructions, diagrams and photos are intended for the personal use of
the purchaser only and may not be copied, sold, shared with any third party or reproduced with the
intention of selling or proting in any way from the designs contained herein. These original
designs remain the property of Angela Osborn, so please do not sell anything you make using
these designs in Australia or anywhere else.
Super Helpful Glossary of Stitches,
Techniques and Pattern Symbols
1. Grain line:
Grain lines are indicated on all pattern
pieces. The grain line must run parallel to
the selvedge of your fabric. Making sure
your grain lines are aligned accurately
ensures your fabric will sit nicely and not
warp or twist in an undesirable way.
2. Selvedge:
The selvedge is the self-nished edge that
runs along both edges down the length of
a roll of fabric. The selvedge is formed
when the fabric is made and it prevents
those two edges from fraying. The grain
line of a piece of fabric runs parallel to the
selvedge.
3. Seam Allowance (S/A):
Seam allowance refers to the distance
from the edge of the pattern piece to where
you need to sew the seam. This pattern
includes 1 cm (3/8) seam allowance on all
edges unless specied otherwise.
4. Notches:
Notches are important points on the
pattern indicating the S/A or marking
specic points that need to be matched
together. A notch is usually a small triangle
sticking out of the pattern. It takes a little
bit more time to cut around these notches,
but they are very helpful in piecing your
pattern together.
5. Right Side/Wrong Side of Fabric:
Fabric is woven with an intended right and
wrong side. Your pattern and instructions
will often refer to the right side of the fabric,
such as when cutting out or when sewing.
The fabric needs to be sewn with the right
sides together. Sometimes the pattern will
specify that a piece needs to be cut right
side up or wrong side up (these pieces
only need one cut out, i.e. not a pair).
6. Pin:
Pin each seam, matching notches as
necessary, before stitching the seam.
Carefully remove pins as you sew. If you
sew over a pin you may damage or break
the needle of your sewing machine.
7. Ironing:
As you sew each seam, press it carefully
with your iron on a setting appropriate for
the type of fabric you are using. Clip into
the seam allowance when necessary to
ensure the seams lie at and neatly. For
more on clipping seam allowance, see
Layering.
8. Layering/Trimming Seam Allowance:
Sometimes the seam allowance needs to
be trimmed to reduce bulk and achieve
neat, at seams. The type of seam and
whether or not it is curved will determine
the best way of trimming or layering the
seam allowance. With all methods of
layering and trimming, be sure to only cut
in the seam allowance. Do not cut across
the seam or the stitching will come apart
creating a hole in your project. Oh no!
Angela Osborn
Bow Tie
Reference No: A12-101
Page: 3
Angela Osborn, 2012. All rights reserved.
This pattern and all written instructions, diagrams and photos are intended for the personal use of
the purchaser only and may not be copied, sold, shared with any third party or reproduced with the
intention of selling or proting in any way from the designs contained herein. These original
designs remain the property of Angela Osborn, so please do not sell anything you make using
these designs in Australia or anywhere else.
8.1. Layering straight seam
allowance to reduce bulk
8.2. Layer seam allowance and trim
corners to reduce bulk and to
make it easier to turn the
corners through.
8.3. Clip concave curves to allow the
seam allowance to fan out
around the curve and lay at
when turned through.
8.4. Clip little triangles out of the
seam allowance of convex
curves to allow the seam
allowance to lay at when
turned through.
9. Back Tack:
At the beginning and end of every machine
stitched seam or row of stitching, you must
always stitch backwards and forwards for a
few stitches. This stops your seam from
coming undone. Do this for every seam
unless specied otherwise.
10. Interfacing:
Interfacing can be sew-in or iron-on. I
usually use iron-on interfacing, which is
also referred to as fusing. It is used to add
strength and stability. Press interfacing to
the wrong side of the corresponding fabric
piece. Always test a scrap of interfacing on
a scrap of your fabric as sometimes
interfacing can make certain types of fabric
pucker. If this occurs use a sew-in
interfacing instead of an iron-on
interfacing.
11. Double Thread/Single Thread (hand
stitching):
When sewing by hand, you can sew with
either a double or single thread (see
diagrams). Either way, you need to knot
the end before you start sewing. I usually
use a double thread because it is stronger,
especially when sewing on buttons.
Occasionally if hand sewing a hem in a
very ne, light-weight fabric, I will use a
single thread. If sewing embroidery, you
should use a single thread (even though it
may have multiple strands.)
12. Hand Stitching Starting Off
Always knot the end of your thread
(whether double thread, single thread or
embroidery oss) before beginning any
hand stitching. Start by passing the needle
from the wrong side of the fabric to the
right side so the knot wont be visible on
the outside. The knot anchors your work
and prevents it from coming undone. If you
are working with a loosely woven fabric
you might nd that the knot pulls through
the fabric. If this is the case, you may also
need to do a couple of tiny stitches on top
of one another to anchor your work.
Angela Osborn
Bow Tie
Reference No: A12-101
Page: 4
Angela Osborn, 2012. All rights reserved.
This pattern and all written instructions, diagrams and photos are intended for the personal use of
the purchaser only and may not be copied, sold, shared with any third party or reproduced with the
intention of selling or proting in any way from the designs contained herein. These original
designs remain the property of Angela Osborn, so please do not sell anything you make using
these designs in Australia or anywhere else.
13. Hand Stitching Finishing Off
When you have completed your stitching,
or run out of thread, you need to nish off
securely. If you simply cut the thread there
is nothing preventing it from unraveling.
After youve sewn your nal stitch, sew
three tiny stitches on top of one another (in
an inconspicuous spot) and then cut the
thread. This secures your stitches rmly so
they wont come undone.
14. Ladder Stitch:
Sometimes you will need to sew things by
hand and it needs to be very neat and
almost invisible. For example, when
sewing closed an opening or to join 2
folded edges of fabric. The most common
stitch used for this purpose is ladder stitch.
With the 2 folded edges butted together,
sew them together with a horizontal stitch
going from one piece to the other, with a
vertical stitch going up inside the folded
edge. Then draw the needle back out to
create another horizontal stitch across to
the other side. Pull the thread rmly as you
go and it will draw the folded edges
together. Finish off with 3 tiny stitches on
top of one another in an inconspicuous
spot, then cut the thread. Use a double
thread to make it extra strong.
15. Running Stitch
Running stitch, a.k.a. the easiest stitch in
the world is a versatile stitch that can be
used decoratively, to join multiple pieces of
fabric together, or even to gather fabric if a
longer stitch length is used. All you do is
poke the needle up through the fabric,
back down through the fabric a short
distance away, then back up, keeping the
distance between each stitch even and
repeat. Its that simple! A longer, looser
running stitch can be used to gather fabric
- just pull the thread to gather the fabric.
16. Back Stitch

Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Back stitch is an ideal stitch for sewing
seams by hand as it is very strong and
Angela Osborn
Bow Tie
Reference No: A12-101
Page: 5
Angela Osborn, 2012. All rights reserved.
This pattern and all written instructions, diagrams and photos are intended for the personal use of
the purchaser only and may not be copied, sold, shared with any third party or reproduced with the
intention of selling or proting in any way from the designs contained herein. These original
designs remain the property of Angela Osborn, so please do not sell anything you make using
these designs in Australia or anywhere else.
Insert needle where
rst stitch ends
secure. I like to use a double thread when
sewing back stitch for seams to make it
extra strong. Back stitch can also be used
decoratively. In this case, dont use a
double thread and use embroidery oss
(the number of strands you use is up to
you and will depend on the size of your
project and the desired effect). Start by
sewing one stitch, then pull your needle
back up a short distance away (the length
of one stitch away). Instead of moving
forward, poke the needle back down
exactly where the rst stitch nished,
bringing the needle up in front of the
thread. Continue in this manner. The back
might look a little funny, but the front
should be a row of evenly spaced stitches
that all line up perfectly, each one
beginning exactly where the previous stitch
nished.
17. Whip Stitch
Whip stitch is a versatile stitch that can be
used to join two pieces of fabric, such as
when closing an opening, to hem things, or
to attach things. To sew whip stitch, simply
sew over and under from one of the pieces
of fabric to the other as shown in the
diagram. This stitch is not as invisible as
ladder stitch, so keep your stitches tiny and
close together for a neat nish.


Angela Osborn
Bow Tie
Reference No: A12-101
Page: 6
Angela Osborn, 2012. All rights reserved.
This pattern and all written instructions, diagrams and photos are intended for the personal use of
the purchaser only and may not be copied, sold, shared with any third party or reproduced with the
intention of selling or proting in any way from the designs contained herein. These original
designs remain the property of Angela Osborn, so please do not sell anything you make using
these designs in Australia or anywhere else.
Bow Tie Sewing Instructions
1. Start by printing off your pattern. The
pattern le contains two different versions
of the pattern, both of which will make
exactly the same bow tie. The only
difference is that one of the patterns is for
one long piece (the entire length of the tie)
and the other pattern is for half the length
of the tie so you will have a seam at the
centre back. Using the seamed pattern will
allow you to cut the pattern out of a smaller
piece of fabric. Choose which pattern you
want to use and cut it out of the paper,
taping the pieces together along the dotted
lines. More detailed instructions for sticking
them together are written on the actual
patten pieces.
2. The pattern is to be cut on the bias. The
bias is the diagonal grain of the fabric and
has more give than the straight grain. By
cutting the tie on the bias you will end up
with a tie that has a bit of give. This makes
it easier to t a variety of neck sizes, it will
be easier to tie and more comfortable for
the wearer.
3. You will notice criss-crossing grain lines on
each pattern piece. Just line up one of
these lines with the grain line of your fabric
(it doesnt matter which line you use) and
pin in place. Once it is cut out the bias
grain will run along the length of the tie.
Cut it out according to the instructions on
the pattern piece, including cutting it out of
interfacing.
4. Iron the interfacing onto the fabric. If you
are using the seamless pattern you will
need to iron one long tie piece of
interfacing to one long tie piece of fabric
and you will have one other long tie piece
without interfacing. If you are using the
seamed pattern (as I am in the photos) you
will need to iron two interfacing pieces to
two tie pieces and you will have another
two tie pieces without interfacing.
5. If using the seamless pattern, skip this
step. If using the seamed pattern, place the
two tie pieces (with interfacing) together
along the centre back seam. Make sure the
right sides of the fabric are facing together
and the notches match.
6. Pin and sew with 1 cm (3/8) seam
allowance and iron the seam open and at.
Repeat with the other pair of tie pieces
(without interfacing).
7. Trim off the little triangles that are poking
over the edges.
Angela Osborn
Bow Tie
Reference No: A12-101
Page: 7
Angela Osborn, 2012. All rights reserved.
This pattern and all written instructions, diagrams and photos are intended for the personal use of
the purchaser only and may not be copied, sold, shared with any third party or reproduced with the
intention of selling or proting in any way from the designs contained herein. These original
designs remain the property of Angela Osborn, so please do not sell anything you make using
these designs in Australia or anywhere else.
8. Place the two tie pieces together with the
right sides facing together and pin all the
way around the edge, leaving a gap of
about 10 cm (4) at the centre.
9. Sew all the way around with 1 cm (3/8)
seam allowance, leaving the gap open.
Trim away some of the seam allowance all
the way around the tie except for along the
gap opening.
10. Trim the seam allowance across the
corners. Clip into the concave curved
areas and cut little notches out of the
convex curved areas, as shown. For more
on clipping curves, refer to the layering
section of the glossary. Take your time to
trim and clip the seam allowance as it
really makes a difference to how the tie will
sit once its turned through.
11. Turn the bow tie through to the right side,
using a chopstick if necessary to poke the
corners through neatly.
12. Iron the bow tie at, folding in the seam
allowance along the gap.
13. Pin the gap closed and then hand stitch it
using either ladder or whip stitch.
Angela Osborn
Bow Tie
Reference No: A12-101
Page: 8
Angela Osborn, 2012. All rights reserved.
This pattern and all written instructions, diagrams and photos are intended for the personal use of
the purchaser only and may not be copied, sold, shared with any third party or reproduced with the
intention of selling or proting in any way from the designs contained herein. These original
designs remain the property of Angela Osborn, so please do not sell anything you make using
these designs in Australia or anywhere else.
14. Iron the bow tie again and it is nished! If
you are feeling super nice and have some
left over fabric, you could make a pocket
square to go with it. Simply cut out a
square of fabric measuring 23 cm (9) by
23 cm (9) and fold over 5 mm (3/16)
along each edge. Fold over a further 5 mm
(3/16) and sew all the way around the
hem. Now you have a thoughtful and
stylish handmade gift for the man in your
life! If youre not sure how to tie a bow tie,
try a search on youtube - there are heaps
of videos that can show you how to do it!
Take your time and remember that this
traditional style of bow tie is not supposed
to look perfectly symmetrical, unlike a pre-
tied bow tie. An imperfect knot is part of the
charm!
Angela Osborn
Bow Tie
Reference No: A12-101
Page: 9
Angela Osborn, 2012. All rights reserved.
This pattern and all written instructions, diagrams and photos are intended for the personal use of
the purchaser only and may not be copied, sold, shared with any third party or reproduced with the
intention of selling or proting in any way from the designs contained herein. These original
designs remain the property of Angela Osborn, so please do not sell anything you make using
these designs in Australia or anywhere else.