carpology.net 025 February 2013 carpology.

net 024 February 2013

| R I G S
When you mould your putty you
need to ensure that it doesnt
cover the whole of the swivel to
ensure you still get a maximum
amount of movement fromthe
rig. The best way to mould it is
to wrap it around the top eye of
the swivel with the bottomof
the putty resting against the top
of the swivels barrel. This then
leaves the whole barrel and the
bottomeye and ring to give a
maximumamount of movement.
If you are shing a Chod Rig
with a Loop Knot to the swivel,
then mould the putty around the
knot, this means that the loop
and swivel is left totally
open and unhindered for
a maximumamount
of movement.
SI MON S TWEAKED CHOD
The Chod Rig is a set-up I used a bit
a few years ago but I have to be honest,
not to very good efect at the time. I
was losing a lot of sh; more than I was
landing, and when I look back now, it
becomes obvious as to why. There were
a few minor and a couple of major errors
in what I was doing, things like the size
of lead; the way my hooklink would slide
right down to the lead; opting for a size
8 hook with a straight eye; positioning
my beads too close together; and using
a pop-up that would probably not be
popped up in 5 or 6hrs time. Put all of
these together in one situation and in
my experience theres more chance a sh
will be lost than landed, so a few changes
were needed.
I opted for a 1.5oz lead and above that
a ve-inch length of 5mm silicone tubing
(colour optional depending on time of
year and weed growth) so the hooklink
cant get closer than three-inches to the
lead once compressed. Above that is the
bottom bead and my hooklink and then
my top bead was to be shed 18-inches
above that and at least 18-inches from the
end of the leadcore. I would sh a size 6
Chodda hook which had been sharpened
and a buoyant enough hookbait was key.
Couple all this with the right situation
and the rig can be devastating. However,
one thing to remember is always allow
your top bead to pass over and of the
leadcore freely to release the rig in any
event of a break-of; safety to the sh is
number one.
The Chod Rig, when used in the right
situation, can get you bites that you
possibly wouldnt get if shing bottom
bait rigs. There have been a couple of
situations this year where I have been
shing very weedy areas and I started
of shing light bottom baits. The lakebed
I was shing over was weed of about 2ft
with small clearings and bigger weedbeds
surrounding the area; just trying to even
get a drop on the lead was tricky and
even then, if I did, I didnt know how
the rig would be sitting. It was from
then on that I changed both rods over
to Chods and started catching
straightaway. Just knowing my bait is
presented perfectly without necessarily
getting a drop gave me condence and
enabled me to have minimal casts.
So for times like this, the Chods are
invaluable but they are not for every
situation if I was shing a clear
bottom for instance, but for when the
area is weedy and youre struggling
to get a drop, theyre perfect.
H O W T O . . .
M O U L D Y O U R
P U T T Y P E R F E C T L Y
SIMON HOFGARTNER REVEALS HOW SOME MINOR AND A COUPLE
OF MAJOR ERRORS COST HIM FISH WITH THE CHOD RIG
CHOD TWEAKING
H O W H E G O E S A B O U T C O N S T R U C T I N G I T
Simon uses Riga-Mortis in 25lb.
The stifness is essential as it holds its
shape once curved. The stifer the better, as
even shing the 20lb version sometimes loses
its shape on the cast.
Before starting to tie my Chod Rig,
I would always straighten the uorocarbon
by looping both ends and pulling straight, this
helps with the curving and the nal presentation
of the rig.
Now the knot I choose for attaching my
hook is a Domhof Knot which is very
neat, very strong and sits perfectly. To tie this,
forma fold in the uorocarbon about one-third
to two-thirds respectively.
1 2 5
Then lay the folded part along side the
hook shank like so with the loop pointing
towards the eye. Next you want to pinch the eye
and both parts of uorocarbon as shown here and
then move onto Step 5.
Pass the longer length of uorocarbon
around the hook and both parts of
uorocarbon ve times and then pass the end
back through the loop you have created above
the eye.
Wet the knot and pull down slowly to bed.
Once pulled tight, pass the end through
the eye. Using this knot, you will only need to go
through the eye twice in total, not three like with
a Knotless Knot.
4 5 6
What I like to do before creating my
D on this hooking section, is to grab the
hook and pinch the tail and pull it the opposite
way to which it normally twists just like I have
done here.
Next thread on a rig ring and pass the tail
back through the eye, trimming of about
10mmfromthe eye and blob down with a lighter.
Be careful of any wind as the lighter can melt the
hooklink material.
The knot I use to attach the swivel is
a Two-Turn Blood Knot, which is plenty
strong enough when using 25lb uorocarbon.
On tightening, the D will twist a bit and end
up true to the back of the hook.
7 9
The ACE Multi-Tool may look like a
bit of a gimmick, but it actually comes in
really handy when tying and pulling up all knots
on all types of rigs, especially Chods Rig like
I amhere.
At this stage you would normally have
to steamthe rig to create the perfect
curve, but where I straightened it earlier, a gentle
tease down the hooklink a few times, is enough
to curve it perfectly.
With the rig almost complete, take the
ACE Multi Tool and create the perfect
shape for your D, as well as checking everything
is sitting true with the curve of the hook; that
is essential.
10 11 12
Simons rig
components
Nailed on the reformed
Chod set-up