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Arequipa is the starting point for the 165 km journey to the Colca Valley. There are buses to Chivay and Cabanaconde, the two main towns in the valley. Combine an organized tour and stay on a few more days to see all the valley has to offer.
Arequipa is the starting point for the 165 km journey to the Colca Valley. There are buses to Chivay and Cabanaconde, the two main towns in the valley. Combine an organized tour and stay on a few more days to see all the valley has to offer.
Arequipa is the starting point for the 165 km journey to the Colca Valley. There are buses to Chivay and Cabanaconde, the two main towns in the valley. Combine an organized tour and stay on a few more days to see all the valley has to offer.
The city of Arequipa is the starting point for the 165 km journey to the Colca Valley. The journey to the Colca may be carried out independently, may be organized by a tourist agency or may be a combination of both. For the tourists who wish to travel independently, the buses to Chivay and Cabanaconde, the two main towns in the valley, set off from the bus terminal in Arequipa. There is a day bus and a night bus. The journey lasts approximately four hours with one stop at a police control. In Chivay you can find all the services a visitor might require, while in Cabanaconde, Yanque and Achoma, these services are limited. There are very few tourist services in other towns or villages. There are local buses which travel between the towns and villages in the valley, but their time schedule is irregular. It is more practical to hire a taxi for a few hours. The travel agencies usually programme excursions which normally only include a visit to the southern area of the valley, between Chivay and Cabanaconde. Some also offer visits to less well known sites, as long as there is enough demand. The third way is to combine both methods: first to take an organized tour and then stay on a few more days in order to take your time and visit those hidden marvels which the Colca offers. This is an especially interesting option for those who love walking as they can take time to tour all the valley. Portrait of Arequipa Arequipa is located in the South of Peru at the foothills of the Andes, 1,020 kilomtres from Lima. It is the second largest city of the country and a must for any tourist plans for visiting the Colca Valley. If you are travelling up from the coast, due to the altitude in the Colca, it is advisable to stay in Arequipa for one or two days to get acclimatized and take advantage of the warm climate and the varied tourist attractions. Arequipa has possibilities for tours within the city as well as to the surrounding area. Its varied culinary delights are well known throughout the country. The "White City", as it is called due to the white volcanic rock with which many of its buildings are built, maintains ancient architectural treasures in the way of grand houses and impressive churches and monasteries. Historical tours include the visit to the Plaza de Armas (main square) with its cathedral, the church of the Compaa de Jesus and the Santa Catalina Monastery. On the outskirts the attractions include the Cayma district with a church built in 1730, and Yanahuara which also has a church and an outlook point from where you have a magnificient view of the city and volcanoes which surround it. As far as excursions to the surrounding area are concerned, there are possibilities for visiting the picturesque villages, the Mejia lakes, the Salinas and Aguada Blanca Nature Reserve or the Colca Valley. Arequipa can be reached by land, along the Panamericana Sur highway, by train from Puno, or by air from various cities in Peru. Activities and routes As mentioned before, the journey to the Colca Valley offers a great variety of attractions in the way of ecology, landascape and cultural and historical monuments. It is possible to visit all of these to a lesser or greater extent, depending on the transport available and the tourist's interests. So if you are an experienced mountain climber who wishes to try the high mountain tops of the area it is possible to find a prepared guide at the Arequipa Mountain Guides Association, who will accompany you to see, for example, the origin of the Amazon River. If you enjoy trekking you may go on excursions to all corners of the valley where you will see not only amazing flora and fauna and landscape, but also wonderful archaeological remains and towns. The local guides enrich the experience with their interesting explanations. We recommend that your stay in the Colca Valley should last at least three to six days. A stay this long will enable you to have quite a full impression of the cultural and natural wealth of the region. A shorter stay will only enable you to see a part of what the Colca offers. The following suggested route enables you to see a bit of everything using your own or hired transport and we have called it the "Colca Classic Route". We also suggest some partial routes in the way of very practical excursions which you can use at your choice and depending on the type of holiday you want and the time you have available. In a different section of this CD-ROM you will find detailed information about activities and journeys which can be done in the Colca. These short lines are merely an introduction to this more complete information. Climate, clothing and other recommendations As the Colca is a valley enclosed by the high snow-capped Andes mountains at an average altitude of 3,500 metres above sea level, its climate is typical of a high mountainous region. Temperatures rise and fall greatly from day to night. In the dry season (mid April to mid November) temperatures usually fall to below zero at night and reach 15 C - 20 C during the daytime. During the rainy season (end of November to end of March), changes in temperature are less dramatic as the overcast sky impedes the penetration of the sun's rays and the heating of the atmosphere during the day and the frost and cold at night. Temperatures vary between 5 C and 10 C. As far as clothing is concerned, comfortable footwear for walking, preferably sports shoes or boots; warm clothes; a sun hat and a water bottle or container, are recommended. For the rainy season, it is also best to bring appropriate protection from the rain. For the visit to the spring baths at Chivay and Yanque you should take swim wear and your own towel. You must never forget to wear sun glasses and high sun factor protection cream when you visit the Colca Valley. A good, night moisturising cream is also recommended. If you plan to walk along some of the suggested routes you should carry your own camping gear and first aid kit. You should also have become accustomed to high altitude conditions for a few days first so that the physical exercise is not too demanding and your body does not suffer from lack of oxygen. Finally, as the Colca Valley nears the Pacific Ocean it narrows and becomes a canyon. The Colca canyon reaches a depth of approximately 3,400 metres. This view cannot be seen on any other of the usual tours. Its access is down river and requires previous preparation as it is a difficult route. The maximum height which the standard tours show is at the Cruz del Condor viewpoint (about a 1,200 metre fall). ROUTES CONVENTIONAL TOURIST OFFER HISTORY/CULTURE/MONUMENTS/LANDSCAPE History, archaeology, culture, landscape, nature THE "COLCA CLASSIC" TOUR (THREE DAYS AND TWO NIGHTS)
The three days and two nights "Colca Classic" tour starts from Arequipa on the first day towards Chivay through Yura, passing impressive volcanoes and scenery. After an initial climb we arrive at Pampa Arrieros and then Pampa Caahuas, within the Salinas and Aguada Blanca Nature Reserve. This area is ideal for short stops to watch vicuas, alpacas and other fauna and flora. After the police control at Chasquipampa and taking a turn to the right, we can enter Sumbay and visit the cave paintings. Later we come to a fork in the road: the right leads to Cuzco and indirectly to Chivay and the left heads straight towards Chivay. We head briefly towards Cuzco to see the origins of the river Colca and to stop at the cave paintings at Mollepunku. Continuing the road there is a new fork and this time we take the left turn to enter the Colca. On route we visit Callali (church and rock formations) and Sibayo (church, handicrafts and surroundings). The arrival at Chivay, after a five-hour journey, marks the end of the day for a better adaptation to the altitude. The spring baths at Chivay are three kilometres from the town. The second day can start with a visit to Chivay and the surrounding area, including the archaeological remains of Uskallacta. After that we recommend travelling to Coporaque to admire the churches and squares. From Coporaque, it takes an easy three hour walk to get to the village of Yanque. This walk takes you past the archaeological remains of San Antonio, the spectacular Yurac Ccacca terraces, the Occolle outlook point and the hanging tombs of Chininea. After lunch at Yanque, the rest of the afternoon is taken up with visiting the beautiful church, the Choquehuanca Inca house, the Cervantes colonial bridge and the spring baths. It is best to sleep the night at Yanque or Achoma. There are various places which offer accommodation. The third day starts early in order to observe the flight of the condors from the Cruz del Condor outlook point. This place offers a good view of how the river starts to narrow (1,200 metres below) in order to reach a maximum depth of 3,400 metres much further on. From the Cross onwards you can enjoy an interesting journey observing the flora and fauna of the area. On the way back to Chivay you can stop at places you did not visit on the way there. Lunch is usually eaten at Chivay before returning to Arequipa. The last part of the journey holds a surprise: the Patapampa outlook point which is the highest viewing point in the Colca at 4,800 metres above sea level, where you can admire the volcanic mountain range.
CONVENTIONAL TOURIST OFFER HISTORY/CULTURE/MONUMENTS/LANDSCAPE THE "COLCA CLASSIC" TOUR (FOUR DAYS AND THREE NIGHTS)
The four days and three nights "Colca Classic" tour starts from Arequipa on the first day towards Chivay through Yura, passing impressive volcanoes and scenery. After an initial climb we arrive at Pampa Arrieros and then Pampa Caahuas, within the Salinas and Aguada Blanca Nature Reserve. This area is ideal for short stops to watch vicuas, alpacas and other fauna and flora. After the police control at Chasquipampa and taking a turn to the right, we can enter Sumbay and visit the cave paintings. Later we come to a fork in the road: the right leads to Cuzco and indirectly to Chivay and the left heads straight towards Chivay. We head briefly towards Cuzco to see the origins of the river Colca and to stop at the cave paintings at Mollepunku. Continuing the road there is a new fork and this time we take the left turn to enter the Colca. On route we visit Callali (church and rock formations) and Sibayo (church, handicrafts and surroundings). The arrival at Chivay, after a five-hour journey, marks the end of the day for a better adaptation to the altitude. The spring baths at Chivay are three kilometres from the town. The second day can start with a visit to Chivay and the surrounding area, including the archaeological remains of Uskallacta. After that we recommend travelling to Coporaque to admire the churches and squares. From Coporaque, it takes an easy three-hour walk to get to the village of Yanque. This walk takes you past the archaeological remains of San Antonio, the spectacular Yurac Ccacca terraces, the Occolle outlook point and the hanging tombs of Chininea. After lunch at Yanque, the rest of the afternoon is taken up with visiting the beautiful church, the Choquehuanca Inca house, the Cervantes colonial bridge and the spring baths. It is best to sleep the night at Yanque or Achoma. There are various places which offer accommodation. The morning of the third day includes a visit to Lari with its spectacular church and also a two-hour walk to the village of Madrigal, passing by lakes Haachigua and Lekempa. Madrigal is a good place to have lunch. After a short visit to the church, we set off for Ichupampa where you can admire surprising colonial doorways. From there you take the road to Cabanaconde where you sleep the night. During this journey tourists usually stop at the various viewpoints and at a place where cheese is made. The fourth day starts early in order to observe the flight of the condors from the Cruz del Condor outlook point. This place offers a good view of how the river starts to narrow (1,200 metres below) in order to reach a maximum depth of 3,400 metres much further on. From the Cross onwards you can enjoy an interesting journey observing the flora and fauna of the area. On the way back to Chivay you can stop at places you did not visit on the way there. Lunch is usually eaten at Chivay before returning to Arequipa. The last part of the journey holds a surprise: the Patapampa outlook point which is the highest viewing point in the Colca at 4,800 metres above sea level, where you can admire the volcanic mountain range. CONVENTIONAL TOURIST OFFER HISTORY/CULTURE/MONUMENTS/ LANDSCAPE OPTIONS FOR THE "COLCA CLASSIC" ROUTE Landscape, nature, physical-recreational.
THE COLCA GEYSER: Instead of returning to Arequipa on the last day of the "Colca Classic" tour, you may sleep the night at Chivay, Yanque or Achoma. The next day we set off for Cabanaconde and turn off a little after the village of Pinchollo, towards the Hatun Infiernillo geyser along a road only for four wheel drive vehicles. The walk from where you leave the car to the geyser takes around 30 minutes. This activity lasts two hours in total and it is not very strenuous. The route is not steep until the last two hundred metres. The difficulty lies in the altitude of the road (4,500 metres above sea level). This whole activity lasts two hours. Effort level: Easy CABANACONDE AND NATURE: Instead of returning to Arequipa on the last day of the "Colca Classic" tour, we sleep in Cabanaconde and set off the next day on a three days and two nights tour which takes us to San Juan de Chuccho, Tapay, Corihua and Malata, based at Sangalle, a unique ecosystem in the valley and the canyon, forming an oasis of riverside vegetation in a warm, subtropical climate with abundant vegetation, fruit trees and a beautiful landscape. This route begins at Cabanaconde (at 3,250 metres above sea level) and descends to 2,200 metres above sea level in the oasis. This impressive difference of 1000 metres takes us through the heart of the Colca and its variety of ecological levels, microclimates and natural diversity. Effort level: Moderate-Demanding THE COLCA OASIS: Instead of returning to Arequipa on the last day of the "Colca Classic" tour, we sleep at Cabanaconde and set out the next day for Sangalle, the Colca oasis. This option is different from the previous tour in that we head straight for our destination and we aim to enjoy a pleasant climate, fruit and a few days rest and relaxation surrounded by nature with a unique view of the Colca canyon. The tour lasts two days and one night camping at the oasis which provides a camping area, toilets and a swimming pool. Effort level: Moderate-Demanding THE COLCA WATERFALLS: Instead of returning to Arequipa on the last day of the "Colca Classic" tour, we sleep at Cabanaconde and set off the following day on a three day and two night tour to the most spectacular waterfall in the Colca, Huaruro. The route leads through the oasis, the village of Paclla, until it reaches the waterfall. During the walk you can see a great variety of ecological levels, landscape, climates and the walk varies in difficulty (from very easy to moderate and strenuous). Without a doubt, this is one of the most complete walks in the Colca. It is a strenuous and demanding tour. Effort level: Demanding. CONVENTIONAL TOURIST OFFER HISTORY/CULTURE/MONUMENTS/LANDSCAPE "NATURAL COLCA" ROUTE (THREE DAYS AND TWO NIGHTS)
Nature, ecology, physical-recreational, rural The "Natural Colca" starts from Arequipa on the first day towards Chivay through Yura, passing impressive volcanoes and scenery. After an initial climb we arrive at Pampa Arrieros and then Pampa Caahuas, within the Salinas and Aguada Blanca Nature Reserve. This area is ideal for short stops which enable us to observe the ecosystem of the arid, high plateau with vicuas, alpacas and other fauna and flora. After the police control at Chasquipampa and taking a turn to the right, we can enter Sumbay and visit the cave paintings. Later we come to a fork in the road: the right leads to Cuzco and indirectly to Chivay and the left heads straight towards Chivay. We head briefly towards Cuzco to see the origins of the river Colca and to stop at the cave paintings at Mollepunku. Continuing the road there is a new fork and this time we take the left turn to enter the Colca. On route we visit Callali (rock formations) and Sibayo. The arrival at Chivay, after a five-hour journey, marks the end of the day for a better adaptation to the altitude. The spring baths at Chivay are three kilometres from the town. The second day starts early in order to observe the flight of the condors from the Cruz del Condor outlook point. This place offers a good view of how the river starts to narrow (1,200 metres below) in order to reach a maximum depth of 3,400 metres much further on. From the Cross onwards you can enjoy an interesting journey observing the flora and fauna of the area. On the way back to Chivay we stop and explain the landscape and the ecosystems at Tapay, Antahuilque, Choquetico and Achumani. Then we visit the centre at the Achoma hotel and have lunch. In the afternoon, we walk to the river bed to see the Colca river ecosystem. It is best to sleep at Yanque or Achoma. There are several places which offer accommodation. On the third day we set off for Cabanaconde and turn off a little after the village of Pinchollo, towards the Hatun Infiernillo geyser along a road only for four wheel drive vehicles. The walk from where you leave the car to the geyser takes around 30 minutes. After this tour, we return to Chivay to visit the village of Maca and the geological fault which runs through it and to visit a place where cheese and dairy products are made. We have lunch at Chivay and then return to Arequipa. The last part of the journey holds a surprise: the Patapampa outlook point which is the highest viewing point in the Colca at 4,800 metres above sea level, where you can admire the volcanic mountain range. Optional: At the end of the second day, instead of staying the night at Acho, or Yanque, you can spend the night at Cabanaconde and take any of the optional tours as options for the "Colca Classic" Route. CONVENTIONAL TOURIST OFFER HISTORY/CULTURE/MONUMENTS/LANDSCAPE "THE OTHER COLCA" (THREE DAYS AND TWO NIGHTS)
Historical, archaeological, religious, cultural, landscape. "The other Colca" Tour starts from Arequipa on the first day towards Chivay through Yura, passing impressive volcanoes and scenery. After an initial climb we arrive at Pampa Arrieros and then Pampa Caahuas, within the Salinas and Aguada Blanca Nature Reserve. This area is ideal for short stops to watch vicuas, alpacas and other fauna and flora. After the police control at Chasquipampa and taking a turn to the right, we can enter Sumbay and visit the cave paintings. Later we come to a fork in the road: the right leads to Cuzco and indirectly to Chivay and the left heads straight towards Chivay. We head briefly towards Cuzco to see the origins of the river Colca and to stop at the cave paintings at Mollepunku. Continuing the road there is a new fork and this time we take the left turn to enter the Colca. On route we visit Callali (church and rock formations) and Sibayo (church, handicrafts and surroundings). The arrival at Chivay, after a five hour journey, marks the end of the day for a better adaptation to the altitude. The spring baths at Chivay are three kilometres from the town. The second day can start with a visit to Chivay and the surrounding area, including the archaeological remains of Uskallacta. After that we recommend travelling to Coporaque to admire the churches and squares. From Coporaque, it takes an easy three hour walk to get to the village of Yanque. This walk takes you past the archaeological remains of San Antonio, the spectacular Yurac Ccacca terraces, the Occolle outlook point and the hanging tombs of Chininea. After lunch at Yanque, the rest of the afternoon is taken up with visiting the beautiful church, the Choquehuanca Inca house, the Cervantes colonial bridge and the spring baths. It is best to sleep the night at Yanque or Achoma. There are various places which offer accommodation. The third day includes a visit to Lari with its spectacular church and also a two hour walk to the village of Madrigal, passing by lakes Haachigua and Lekempa. Madrigal is a good place to have lunch. After a short visit to the church, we set off for Ichupampa where you can admire surprising colonial doorways. From there you take the road back to Chivay before returning to Arequipa. The last part of the journey holds a surprise: the Patapampa outlook point which is the highest viewing point in the Colca at 4,800 metres above sea level, where you can admire the volcanic mountain range. SUBJETS THE BATTLES OF CHAYLLAYCHO: THE STRUGGLE FOR THE IRRIGATION OF COLCA VALLEY ABSTRACT The battles that have occurred between two villages of the Colca Valley, Yanque and Coporaque, for the control of water sources, reflect the importance of irrigation in this semiarid environment typical of the western Andean escarpment. They also reflect the problems caused by the division of population and catchment basins into two or more administrative units as of the colonial period. This paper traces the history of population and territorial fragmentation as they transpire from colonial and republican documents pertaining to the Province of Collaguas, now called Caylloma. The author argues that in the prehispanic and early colonial period, native authorities controlled population and irrigation sources over extensive territories; and that colonial institutions such as villages, and republican administrative units such as distritos and indigenous or peasant comunidades (a legal construct associating groups of peasants) tend to create opposition and conflict over territorial boundaries and access to irrigation water. ANDEAN IMIGRANT IN THE DESSERT: THE MAJES IRRIGATION PROJECT INTRODUCTION The Majes Irrigation Project in the department of Arequipa, Peru had approximately 12,000 hectares and 25,000 inhabitants in 1996. By definition all inhabitants of Majes are migrants, as the location is a desert where there has only been water since 1982. The Pampa de Majes is an irrigated area, run by the Majes, Arequipa, Irrigation Project. The Pampa de Majes population is basically divided into tenant farmers and employee labourers, temporary workers like craftsmen, merchants and employees of state institutions as well as national and international development project workers. Most of the farmers and their labourers are from the Andean region and have previous experience in animal and crop farming. The Majes project was originally designed to be a social project but in actual fact it has promoted milk production for dairy factories and other agricultural related industries. The Majes project has been called a complete development project and its objective was to satisfy the demands of the Arequipa region for more cultivable land. The Project would use the water from the Colca river and the Apurimac river to irrigate 57,000 hectares in the Majes and Siguas areas on the coast; 3,000 hectares in the highlands between Cabanaconde and Huambo and supply two hydroelectric plants. According to Jacob Maos, the Project was accepted because irrigated agriculture is and will be one of the main social and economic resources in Peru. The coast is so arid that it requires a great deal of irrigation. It depends almost entirely on water which flows from the Andes mountain ranges to the Pacific Ocean. The government at the time presented the Majes project as an example of social justice for the less favoured farming class. Infrastructure The Majes project infrastructure began in 1971. The work for the transfer of water from the Colca river to the Siguas river and then to the Pampa de Majes was started by an international consortium by the name of MACON. The company began to build a reservoir for the water of the Colca river, in Condoroma. It would store water during the rainy season (December to March) to be used during the dry season (April - November). In 1992, the infrastructure for the transfer of the Colca river water through the Condoroma reservoir to the Pampa de Majes was complete. There were economic factors however, which did not enable the project to work as planned and some of the water was being used for other irrigation areas. The geographical, topographical and ecological environment The Pampa de Majes is slightly uneven and is sufficient to allow normal drainage. The land is desert and there is not much erosion except in places where rivers like the Siguas and Vitor are located and deep U valleys have been formed. During the winter there are thick mists. The temperature reaches 28 degrees centigrade and the minimum temperature is 11 degrees centigrade. At present the irrigated area is humid due to the evaporation of the watering by sprinklers, which creates a type of greenhouse effect. As there is a tendency to over irrigate, water forms pools in the lower parts of the plots of land and mosquitoes proliferate. Approximately 90 percent of Majes grows alfalfa for dairy production. MIGRANTS IN THE MAJES IRRIGATION PROJECT The water from the Colca river arrived at the Pampa de Majes for the first time in 1982. Many people, mainly from the provinces of Arequipa, Caylloma and the Siguas valley, applied for land. The Colca valley inhabitants had been promised that they would be given priority if their lands had been affected by the Majes channel infrastructure, however inhabitants from other areas were also given priority, as were some inhabitants who did not meet the economic and social requirements but who were from more socially privileged groups. The Information Bulletin explained that the land was desert and that there was no vegetation or organic material. It was sandy and stoney. The farmers would have to withdraw the stones with great effort. Then they would have to level the surface, a new activity, which would require machinery to facilitate drainage. The Agricultural Bank would provide loans for the acquisition of machinery for irrigation and levelling. The farmer would have to have his own sprinkling system. There were some water supply points for human consumption. In many cases, however, the farmers did not actually go to live in the area but rather paid others to take charge. Tenant farmers, low paid labourers and employees The migration to the Majes project was greater than expected but not all of those who lived there were the farmers. Some of the inhabitants were low-paid labourers and others were not the original beneficiaries. In the case of the labourers, there is a constant turnover. It is hard to tell what their gain is as they live in very poor dwellings and receive very little for their work. Many of the migrants are originally from the highlands but have already had experience of living on the coast.Therefore they are indirect migrants. However, they do have difficulties as far as the irrigation is concerned as they are not used to the type of irrigation required. The irrigation by gravity which they are accustomed to is forbidden in the Majes and it is only carried out illegally. In the highlands the farmers have the right to farm but they do not possess the land as it belongs to the community. However, the Majes project offers the right to buy the plot and have the title deeds. Economic, technological and social problems The bank loans and technological training offered became more difficult to come by. The farmers were advised to live in small towns with basic municipal, school and religious services , but the towns were mainly occupied by employees of the different commercial, banking, religious and educational institutions and by temporary workers, merchants and craftsmen. The farmers and labourers or those in charge of the land live mainly on their land. Irrigation system on the Pampa de Majes The Majes Project uses three irrigation systems which are: irrigation using sprinklers which is mainly for the alfalfa; drip irrigation using special filters for fruit orchards and grapevines and irrigation by gravity which requires ditches on a slope, which is officially forbidden but is used due to lack of equipment. In general those farmers with experience were accustomed to the latter type or flood control irrigation and therefore tend to water excessively when using sprinklers. Conclusion The Majes project is one of the development projects which attracts people from the highlands to the coast, directly or indirectly. The population however, in Majes fluctuates and changes constantly. The original intention of favouring the poor peasants and farmers with 5.5 hectare plots of land is not materializing. The social and economic environment in Majes reflects Peruvian society, divided into classes and in which the land is owned by few. The evaluation carried out before the project began and a lack of understanding of the national reality, did not foresee obstacles which cropped up during the development of the project (such as the amount of farming land to be destroyed in the Colca; the demands of the farmers in the Siguas valley; the fact that the majority of the farmers would not actually reside on the Pampa and would leave their land to others to look after and the fact that the land where alfalfa was sown became grazing land for animals which provided milk for the dairy companies). However, The Majes Project did provide paid employment and training for a considerable sector of the Colca population for a decade and it enabled a number of Andean peasant farmers to receive land. GEOLOGICAL ASPECT OF THE COLCA VALLEY The Colca Valley is located in a geologically rich and active area. It is located in the south of Peru, in and between the Andes mountains, and it belongs to the South American tectonic plate. This continental plate lies under the Nazca oceanic plate. The friction between both at a depth of over 100 kilometres causes the magma to rise to the lithosphere through large geological crevices, thus forming volcanoes. So, the Colca area is predominantly made up of volcanic rocks, with the presence of some sedimentary rock. This type of rock can be seen to the northwest of Maca. The most recent sign of vulcanism, is made up of the highest mountains in the valley: the Hualca Hualca, Ampato and Sabancayo volcanoes. The Colca valley is noticeable for the diversity of materials which cover it: the alluvial terraces made up of conglomerates, gravel and mud slime. The second structure is made up of alluvial cones. These materials have descended from the high parts due to water erosion and probably glacial activity. Maca, Lari and Madrigal stand out for the presence of great masses of rock. These frequently slide, greatly affecting agriculture. The landslides are produced by the clayey lithology of some of the sediments, the abundance of water and the fracture of the land and even by active geological faults. The volcanoes Two of the at least four active volcanoes in the south of Peru, are to be found in the Colca valley or in the tourist areas linked to the Colca. These are the Sabancaya and Misti volcanoes. Along with the Ubinas and Huaynaputina volcanoes, they both belong to the central Andean volcanic region. The snowcapped mountain, Sabancaya, by the Colca valley, is the highest of the active Peruvian volcanoes. It is located near to the ancient Hualca Hualca volcano and the most recent one, Ampato.
The Sabancaya has been permanently active sine 1987. Its activity alternates between periods of relative calm and periods of increase in intensity. At present, the columns of ash from the Sabancaya rise from one to four kilometres into the air for ten minutes at a time, at irregular intervals. The ash is carried by the wind for several kilometres. The volcano started its reactivation in 1990 when the columns frequently reached over five kilometres into the sky and were seemingly full of volcanic particles. At that time llama and alpaca pasture in the area was stopped due to the ash. At present, it is impossible to foresee the future evolution of the Sabancaya. Historical narratives tell of similar activity during the XVIII century. And the volcano's name in Quechua means "he who spits", suggesting that this type of eruption did occur during the pre-Columbian era. Only a greater eruption could affect the Colca valley inhabitants, at 20 kilometres from the volcano. How to visit Sabancaya The best place to see the Sabancaya eruptions is the Pampa de Sallalli. You can reach there using a four wheel drive vehicle, along a dirt road which heads directly off the Arequipa-Chivay road, at Solarpampa. The journey lasts four or five hours from Arequipa, and approximately two hours from Chivay. The climb up to the crater is long and a guide is recommended. You must sleep the night at the mountain pass between Sabancaya and Ampato. Misti The Misti volcano is the most well known of the Peruvian volcanoes, not only for its symmetrical beauty but also, and most of all, for its proximity to Arequipa. Its activity has been known of for at least 35,000 years, when the most ancient eruption occurred. During this long period of time, up until the present, several dozen significant eruptions have occurred. The latest eruption took place 2000 years ago. This eruption started with the emission of volcanic material which fell on Arequipa. It is probable that over the last 2000 years, several minor eruptions have taken place. If a significant eruption of Misti did occur, Arequipa would be in a critical position. An eruption with an unfavourable wind, could cover the city in ash and pumice stone causing severe damage. It is possible that serious avalanches could occur. For example, the city is partly built on the remaining sediment of the collapse of the Pichu Pichu volcano. An avalanche of this nature would completely destroy the city of Arequipa in a few minutes. How to visit Misti The climb up Misti usually takes two days there and back. There is no technical difficulty in climbing it, but it is essential to be physically fit. A mountain guide is advisable. You can descend into the exterior crater, but it is dangerous to venture into the small central crater. Ashlar stone The beauty of Arequipa lies partly in the white ashlar stone used for building all of the colonial buildings in the centre. In the Colca Valley, the Lari church has also been built completely out of this stone. Ashlar is a volcanic rock which comes from a particularly violent eruption which took place over two million years ago. It is the product of monstrous streams of fire and lava which submerged the whole Arequipa basin. At the time of its emplacement and due to the high temperature, it solidified and formed the compact consistency which enables it to be used as construction material. If an eruption similar to that of the ashlar ever occurred again, the city of Arequipa and the neighbouring plains would disappear without a trace. Seismic aspects of the Colca The south of Peru is well known for its strong seismic features. The seismic activity in the Colca valley is significant. In July 1991 an earthquake of 5.2 degrees occurred and completely destroyed Maca and its church. The geyser and the hot springs The Colca valley has several hot mineral springs, probably associated with the vulcanism. Their origin is in the rain water which filters in the subsoil and is heated in the depths due to its proximity to a magmatic chamber. Thus the water is lighter than the surrounding cold water and it rises to the surface. If there are cracks in the earth, they favour a rapid rise to the surface, the water does not lose its heat. In some cases the magma transfers a certain quantity of carbonic gas to the water, changing it into high quality mineral water. To the south of Pinchollo, in the Colca river canyon, there is a constant jet of water vapour. There are also hot spring baths at Chivay and Ichupampa. Mineral resources in the Colca Valley: mines The Colca valley has two mines. The Maca and the Madrigal mines. The Maca mine contains diatomite. This contains the same typology as carbon, petroleum and natural gas. The mine is located in the Jatun Chicta region. The Madrigal mine contains metalic minerals. Up until a few years ago, copper, zinc, lead and silver were mined here. Due to economic measures, their mining ceased to be profitable and at present the mine is abandoned. The mine also contains quartz, calcite, galena, sphalerite, chalcopyrite and pyrite. THE CANYON: A DEEP AN ANCIENT GORGE High up, in the desolate places of Imata, near the Jayuchaca lagoon, the many Colca tributaries spread out over an Andean arch of over sixty kilometres. They run down the hills and, like the Chilamayo river, the headwaters of the Colca, they join the new river bed. It is here that the river begins its wilful journey which ends in the Pacific Ocean under the name of the Camana river. The torrent runs through parts of the canyon which only the midday sun touches and on its journey it lays bare the geological formations which have gathered since ancient times. HISTORY OF THE CANYON Seventy million years ago, during the Senonic period, the first Peruvian Andean upheaval, the Peruvian Uplift, ocurred. This wide-ranging orogenic movement of mountain building was followed by abundant volcanic outlets which spread all along the meridional mountain range, forming a strong platform. Much later, towards the end of the Tertiary period, the great volcanoes which stretch from the 150 parallel latitude to Tierra del Fuego, began to rise. Simultaneously, igneous (crystalline) rocks appeared which, after extensive erosive processes caused by differences in temperature, became exposed to the outside world. Thus, the Huaraz, Volcabamba and Urubamba mountain ranges had been formed. During the Oligocene period, thirty five million years ago, the Continental Mountain Range emerged with heights of up to a thousand or two thousand metres, causing new foldings of the sedimentary strata. Much later, towards the end of the Tertiary period, during the Miocene and the Pliocene periods, new eruptions occurred causing a great accumulation of volcanic layers. Tangential thrusts, particularly in the Pliocene period, produced the Quichano folding and lifted the range up to the altitude which it has today. During this period and the Pleistocene period, volcanic activity begins again and forms, among other outstanding mountains in the south of the country, the Coropuna and the Ampato. The eroding effect of the water which descends from the glaciers and from the different glaciations which occurred in the heights of the range millions of years ago, has laid bare the enormous upheavals in the geological formation. The fluvial lake terraces located above the present river bed on which the terraces are, are a clear indication of the above. That is, the break in the base level due to sudden (in geological time, naturally) and sharp upheaval of the Andes, caused the narrowness of the river and molded the terraces which stretch all along both sides of the valley. The deep vertical cut in the crust, the canyon, is, then, a geomorphological occurrence, a product of erosion. The Colca river bed is at 1,300 metres altitude, and the average height of the volcanic peaks is of over six thousand metres. There is then, a real difference of about five thousand metres: the Colca Canyon is, without a doubt, one of the deepest in the world. RIVER EROSION Like the other rivers located in the north and south, the Colca's winding route cuts through three well defined geomorphological layers: the western slopes of the Andes mountain range, scattered with formidable volcanoes; the arid plains of the constantly wind-blown deserts; and the low ridges of the coastal range, a projection of the Paracas peninsula. The Colca river descends from 4,500 metres to sea level. The violent erosive activity which it leaves on its way is the result of the accentuated unevenness in the land on most of its approximately 450 kilometre journey. From its origins on the high plateau right to its mouth, under the names of Majes and Camana successively, rocky strata can be seen along its banks. The most ancient rest at the bottom and the most recent at the top at ground level; except where the Tectonic compression, the crushing of the crust structure, has caused such an upheaval that it has inverted the sequence. But this does not occur in the Colca region. In the stratigraphic sequence that the Majes river reveals, however, some strata have been deposited or the million year erosion factor has purged them. In the area which corresponds to the Paleozoic Period, the Cambrian, Silurian, Carboniferous and Permian periods are missing; and in the area that corresponds to the Mesozoic Period, the Triassic period is missing. However, all the Cenozoic periods are registered, from the Eocene to the Pliocene periods; and the Neozoic Period is also present. This cut in the coastal mountain range which the Majes river pierces, is also a deep 40 km canyon (all the rivers which descend from the Andes to the Pacific Ocean and towards the Amazon Basin have the characteristics of the Canyon). Rocks from the basal complex of the Coast, from the pre-Cambrian period, can be seen there; examples of the primitive crystalline base of the crust. Thin, calcareous and sandy strata cover the outcrop; and on it lies a unique surface of Tertiary period erosion with the sediments of the Camana formation. Along both banks, subvertical strata can be seen covered by Tertiary period deposits. Up river, in the high plateau area, the volcanic layers cover all the underlying formations, particularly basalt and andesite. The aborigenes used these blocks which had fallen from the heights for the impressive petroglyphs at Toro Muerto. On the rough escarpments of the Colca canyon, sandstone, slate, quartzites and oil shale can be seen, formed in the Jurassic Period. And it is all covered by volcanic layers which end in the Coropuna and the Ampato. The stratigraphic sequence which appears in the former is very vast: it repeats the succession studied in the area surrounding Arequipa and on the basis of which all the outcrops in the south of the country have been determined. The above sequence includes nearly all of the Jurassic Period (Yura formation) and the Cretaceous Period (Aucurquina limestone). Evidence of how the Orogenic impulses carried ancient sedimentary formations to great heights, can also be found between the Colca and Callalli. There, at 4,600 metres above sea level, the quartzites can be seen in the Yura formations and the Aucurquina limestone from the Jurassic and Creatceous Periods. Such is the intimate and exciting panorama which the endless erosion of the Colca river is determined to show us. THE HISTORICAL PROCES . THE FIRST GUANACO HUNTING AND GATHERING INHABITANTS In the Colca Valley, in 10,000 BC, geographical conditions were more or less the same as they are today. During this period, which is also called "pre-ceramic", groups of hunters and gatherers were settling in the highlands and on the coast. Seed, fruit and bird egg gathering was selective. The same happened with guanaco and bird hunting. This method of avoiding the collapse of different species encouraged early settling in the Andes. Although the inhabitants did not know ceramics, they made arrow heads from stone. The Sumbay cave painting are a good example of life as it was then. This cave was inhabited between 5,800 BC and 3,000 AD. On the walls, the hunters had painted animals such as camelidae, pumas, foxes and other extinct animals running away. One ancient group of arrow heads were made of black volcanic rock. Another later group made arrow heads of obsidian. There are also disc shaped knives, scrapers and burins for sewing. 2. AGRICULTURE AND LIVESTOCK A similar revolution to the Neolithic one in Europe, began in the Andes as from 3,000 BC. In the Colca valley where the climate is arid, irrigation agriculture became the main factor of the society's transformation. The place where this change is clearly noted is the Mollepunco cave. This cave shows camelidae and the domestication of these animals over many years. Later, sculptured pictures in the cave show camelidaes with ropes around their necks as well as corrals. Studies have shown that the llama was the result of the domestication of the guanaco and the alpaca was the result of the domestication of the vicua. 3. ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES Sumbay Mollepunco Pumunuta Yanque Viejo Uyo Uyo Uska Llacta Inca Houses Yanque Lari Cabanaconde USKA LLACTA This is a prehispanic village with a cemetery and a colonial mill. It shows different eras including the Inca and colonial ones. The most important sector shows rectangular dwellings made of stone. They have a very narrow central door. Nearly all had two floors. There is evidence of the fires that were caused by the Spanish captain, Lope de Suazo, who burned these buildings in about 1570 to force the Collagua indians to move to the Spanish Chivay. The indians farmed the terraces. There are stone tombs and a colonial mill. There is evidence of Inca and Chucuito ceramics as well as earlier examples. This site has a magnificent view of the valley as well as the opportunity to observe the colourful costumes of the inhabitants. In fact, it is an impressive experience to watch the ancient customs during the harvest or when seed is being sown in Uska Llacta. Despite all of these attributes, Uska Llacta is not well known to tourists and is not well advertised. ACHACHUA This is a walled, prehispanic village with public areas and cemeteries. It is strategically located by the canyon at 1,200 m above the river, offering magestic views. Condors can also be seen. The majority of the dwellings are still buried. This is the best place to explain the urban process in the valley and its links with the Ayacucho capital , Wari, during the era. It was very defensive and controlled agricultural production which at present is corn. This site is not visited often by tourists, nor is it well advertised. INCA HOUSE IN CABANACONDE These houses were occupied by the Incas in Cabanconde for administration purposes. The houses are rectangular with one door facing East. They are built in Cuzco style. Previously the village was occupied by the Cabana ethnic group. The town is at present inhabited and although the buldings are known and admired, they are not well cared for or visited much by tourists. INCA HOUSE IN YANQUE These are houses from the time of the Inca occupation of Yanque for the Cuzco administration of this area of the valley. The Spaniards also arrived there. They are two storey, rectangular houses with one door. The architecture is in Cuzco style and ceramic was also found there. The site was previously inhabited by the Collagua ethnic group. UYO UYO or YANQUE VIEJO (Ichupampa) This is a prehispanic village. There are terraces and channels surrounding it. The rectangular dwellings are made from stone and have one central door. Nearly all of them have two floors. The village is divided into two sectors by a channel. This place shows clearly the organization of a rural Inca village. This village had a local population of farming Collagua Yanque inhabitants. The Spaniards found the Collagua indians living in this village and they forced them to move to the present town of Yanque. There is a myth about this event. The place has a spectacular view of the terraces and landscape. The colourful costumes of the local farmers are attractive. Despite its easy access from the road and from Ichupampa this site is not visited regularly by tourists. It is not well advertised either. SAN ANTONIO - CHURA (Coporaque) This is a prehispanic village with cemeteries and terraces as well as abandoned wells and channels. It lies at the foot of the Pumachiri hill. There are various sectors which correspond to different eras. The dwellings are rectangular and made of stone with one tall, narrow door. Nearly all of these houses had two floors. These houses were also burned by Captain Lope de Suazo as he forced the Collagua indians to move to Coporaque. There is a rectangular chapel which stands on the top of the San Antonio hill. It is a solitary, rectangular structure. Despite its spectacular landscape and its archaeological significance, the site is not visited regularly by tourists and information about it is not readily available. CHININEA (Yanque) These are tombs built into the side of the canyon, known also as hanging tombs. They are individual and group tombs built in stone and mud in caves dug into the wall of the canyon, following ancient traditions. They have small doors. The tombs were looted by the Spaniards. They can only be reached using ropes. They are directly related to the San Antonio - Chijra complex inhabited by Collagua indians. Despite its archaeological importance and magnificent view, the site is not regularly visited by tourists. It is easily accessible by means of a 20 minute walk to visit Coporaque, San Antonio, Chininia and Yanque. More information should be made available. AGRICULTURE IN THE COLCA VALLEY The first types of agriculture in the area were irrigated by flooding and later systems of irrigation extended to the highlands. There is no record of when agriculture began in the Colca valley however, research shows that the first fields were on the high slopes of the valley near the glacial water sources.
These are typical characteristics of the Colca valley. It is difficult to determine the age of the terraces as research shows the existence of different periods of farming and occupation. Terraces (Andenes) are generally modified and so soil is mixed and provides confusing results for analysis. Terraces and their functions 1. The terrace provides soil on non farmable land or retains soil which can be eroded. 2. Erosion control. 3. Microclimate control: the terraces can create favourable microclimates for crops, protecting them against freezing temperatures, wind and sun. 4. Humidity control: the terraces retain humidity and enable irrigation to be uniform. Types of agriculture Land is classified by its access to irrigation sources. Some fields which have access to water are not being farmed. Some fields which are irrigated have terraces and others do not. These latter fields are slightly sloping. Some terraces are not called this by the inhabitants if they are on topographically named plains. Farmers maintain that sloping fields can be irrigated if the water is carefully managed. Vegetable Gardens These gardens are irrigated by means of a system of channels which flow through the streets. Gardens usually produce vegetables such as lettuce, carrots, onion and garlic. Some families grow flowers or eucalyptus trees. Irrigation The inhabitants have a saying which says that to irrigate is to teach the water. They must force the water to flow in the appropriate directions and at the right speed. The inhabitants are concerned about saving water. They tend to value land according to its access to water sources. Irrigation in the valley has three purposes: 1. To bring forward the growth period for the crops to September, before the rains start; 2. To enable crops to ripen before the cold sets in April and May. 3. To rescue crops if the rains do not come after sowing. The Majes Project developed during the eighties consisted of the use of the Colca and Siguas rivers to facilitate irrigation for 12,000 hectares of the coast on the Pampa de Majes. This modern system has also regulated and improved the water sources for the left hand side of the Colca valley. The right hand side uses the Colca river and its streams. Terrace Rehabilitation The terraces in the Colca valley have slowly been deteriorating and there are fewer and fewer areas for farming. Therefore, annual improvement and rehabilitation are necessary. The process is as follows: the deteriorated terraces are selected; work teams are organized and then cleaning, digging and repairs are carried out. Farming The Colca has very limited mechanized farming due to the following facts: Uneven topography Low profitability Lack of means of communication and transport between the production and commercialization points Yield limited due to climate Agricultural machinery is needed less as there is sufficient manual labour Little diffusion of information about improved technology Traditional farming tools used The Chakitaqlla is a foot plough The spade The threshing stick Plough pulled by oxen Division of the Colca land At present there is a significant extension of more than 3000 hectares of abandoned terraces. A great investment is needed to repair them. Although the increase in population has not been great, there has been an increase in small farms. Seeds 32 varieties of corn seed, 12 of broad beans and up to 54 varieties of quinua seeds have been recorded. Farming system in the Colca Valley 1. Monoculture This consists of farming one crop such as Corn in fertile areas not affected by cold and with good water retention Barley in areas exposed to cold Broad beans in flat areas not affected by cold Alfalfa in flat areas and terraces with good water retention. 2. Mixed Farming This system particularly applies to sectors with some climatic, water or fertility limitations. Corn / Borad beans on terraces with lack of water Corn / Peas on terraces not affected by cold and with good water retention Broad beans / Quinua in flat areas and terraces which have low fertility and are exposed to cold Corn / Potato in cold areas with abundant water and high fertility Broad beans / Potato in cold, fertile areas with abundant water areas Corn /Quinua /broad beans in terraces with little water and soil fertility problems. 3. Crop rotation Crop rotation is based on programming different crops which diversifies the crop production and improves weed control, improving too the farmers economic possibilities for commerce. The advantages are as follows: Pest control Rational soil exploitation The need for large quantities of supplies is reduced Weed control Two or more harvests a year. 4. Ploughing The advantages of this are: Weeds rot The earth softens, breathes and rests Worms are eliminated The soil absorbs the sun's rays The soil is looser Pests and plagues are avoided Fruit growing The main fruit production is apples, pears, peaches, quinces, figs, pacaes, lucumas, custard apples, guavas, citrus fruit and avocado pears. The fruit production is low and the orchards are old and not maintained adequately. Main Crops POTATO (Solanum tuberosum) According to records potatoes have been identified as having existed for 9000 years on the Andean coast. The Spaniards discovered the potato on arrival in Peru and by 1573 it was being used in Seville, Spain. Soon the plant was taken illegally into France and most European countries. There are over 3000 varieties. CORN (Zea mays) Some consider corn to be originally Mexican. It was found in Cuba by Columbus' men and it was soon taken to Spain and by 1525 had spread over all the peninsula. By the XVIII century it was accepted as food for human consumption. There are approximately 10 local varieties in the Colca. QUINUA Quinua was the basic staple diet of the prehispanic peoples. According to research it originates in Lake Titicaca. It is not easy to cultivate it out of the Andes as it depends on a great deal of sun. Other crops in the Colca Caihua (grain) Kiwicha (grain) Trawl (Grain) Olluco (tuber) Oca (tuber) Au, Isau (tuber) Achira - Maca (tuber) Arracacha (tuber) Yacon (tuber) The Colca agriculture and its place in the regional and national economy. The local market depends on supply and demand and manual labour is also offered. This latter involves a temporary migration. Participation in the financial market is limited as this is restricted by credits from financial entities. 1. Farmers who are integrated into the market. They keep part of their produce for their own consumption and the rest is commericalized. 2. Farmers with little participation in the market. This category includes farmers who give priority to subsistence farming and reciprocity. 3. Farmers with two types of different produce. These are the fruit farmers who produce fruit for their own consumption and for exchange and cochineal for the local market. Often other activities or the offer of their own manual labour must be carried out for subsistence. All members of the family participate in the production and economy of the home. Role of the women in the Colca farming The women participate actively in farming such as preparing the land, selecting the seed and sowing, fertilizing the soil and weeding. The men drive the plough, level the ground, control pests and irrigate. All the family participates in the harvest. The women also run the home and are responsible for the domestic activities, the garden, the children, etc. ANDEAN RESTORING IN THE CALLUMAYO: LARI MICRO BASIN PRESENTATION According to the inventory carried out by the National Office for Natural Resources in 1988, the Colca Valley holds a total of 10,220 hectares of terraces. Some of these are abandoned and deteriorated, others are partly maintained and 4,760 hectares are in good use. The conservation and maintenance of these terraces are important for the area. Without terraces this land could not be farmed. The inhabitants who should carry out this maintenance and these repairs, require training in the techniques for repairing and maintaining this important productive resource which is also a great tourist attraction.
I. TERRACES AND THEIR IMPORTANCE The terraces or "pata patas" are man made modifications on the slopes of hills which form steps or horizontal platforms sustained by carefully built stone walls in order to keep the earth firm and so be able to cultivate crops in adverse topographical and climatic conditions. IMPORTANCE OF THE TERRACES The following are the many advantages of the terraces: 1. They keep the earth firm on the sloping hills avoiding the erosion of farming land by water. 2. They take greater advantage of the irrigation and rain water. 3. They make the most of fertilizers and maintain their natural fertility better. 4. The terraces facilitate farming on slopes for the inhabitants, making it easier for ploughing and other activities. 5. They create an appropriate climate for crops, reducing the effect of frost due to the fact that they maintain the heat of the sun during the day. 6. The wind on terraces does not cool or dry the soil as much and so reduces the effect of the cold winds. 7. The terraces as a whole generate a diversity of microclimates which enable the inhabitants to cultivate a variety of crops. II. PARTS OF A TERRACE AND HOW IT WORKS The terraces are not simple structures but rather a complex system. 1. WALL OR "ANCHACA" The wall of the terrace is a retaining wall made of stones of different sizes placed precisely one on top of the other. This provides stability. The wall follows the curve of the contour and slopes slightly inwards. The height of the wall depends on the width of the terrace and the slope. To fill in the terrace, small stones are used behind the wall to give it greater stability and drainage. 2. TERRACE This is the platform where the crops grow. Some of these are based on the side of the hill itself and others are more man made. The man made terraces use stone for drainage, then sand and clayey soil as well as fertile earth. 3. IRRIGATION DITCHES These structures are used for watering the terraces. The terraces use four types of irrigation ditches for different functions. Ditches at the head of the terrace or "Orccoyas" control and take the water to each terrace. They are made of stone and earth. Sloping ditches flow down the centre of the group of terraces and are made of stone. They have channels which branch off to each terrace. Falls or "Pakchas" and "K'alchas" transfer the water from a higher terrace to another interior one. When the water fall is steep, it is called a "Pakcha" and when the fall is subdued by a channel, it is called a "K'alcha". Drains or "Wikchuras" are ditches which are at the end of a group of terraces to evacuate the water to a main ditch. 4. PATHS OR ACCESS These structures enable the farmers to reach the terraces with ease: "Zarupas", "Charq'eas" or "patiqllos" are steps made of stone set in the wall. "Pucaras" is a stairway which sticks out and is parallel to the wall. It is made of stone which has been carefully tied to the wall and the terrace. "Hatun Pukaras" is a side stairway which joins several terraces at one side and it lies parallel to the irrigation ditches. III. REPAIRING OF THE DETERIORATED WALLS When a wall falls, it must be rebuilt immediately.
IV. CONSTRUCTION OF NEW TERRACES 1. EVALUATION OF THE TYPE OF SOIL It is important to design the type of terrace which is to be built according to the depth of the soil, the slope and the shape and size of the land. 2. CALCULATION OF THE SIZE AND DESIGN OF THE TERRACES According to the depth of the soil and the slope, the calculations can be made for the height of the wall and the width of the terrace. 3. PROCEDURE FOR BUILDING Mark the lines according to the contour line of the hill. Smooth the curves so that the terraces do not have sharp bends. Dig the foundation at a reasonable depth. Start building the foundation with stone. Continue the wall using stone. As the wall is built, the filling should be added and compressed. 4. OPERATION FOR FILLING THE TERRACE The terrace is a flat platform. It is advisable to work in small spaces or stretches of land at a time. 5. BUILDING OF THE SECOND TERRACE. The same method is used for the next terrace except that this time the building starts at the opposite end. 6. BUILDING OF COMPLEMENTARY STRUCTURES During the building process, the stairs and irrigation ditches will also be built. 7. FINISHING AND CHECKING THE TERRACE An edge is built along the wall to avoid water escaping during irrigation and the terrace is levelled off to give a flat terrace. The A-Frame can be used to measure and check the level. TERRACES MUST BE BUILT FROM ABOVE, MOVING DOWN. NEVER BUILD USING DRY EARTH. V. TERRACE MAINTENANCE 1. Irrigation must be controlled 2. Vegetation must be constantly cleared from the walls. 3. The walls must be checked regularly. 4. The pathways must be repaired. 5. Ploughing must not be done parallel to the wall. 6. The yoke must be used carefully. 7. Use natural compost to improve the quality of the soil. 8. Avoid loose animal grazing. 9. Never plant trees near the edge of the terrace. THE A-FRAME This is a simple instrument used for contour lines. It is made of 3 thin poles, some string and a stone. The poles are tied in the shape of an "A" and the string with the stone on the end is hung from the top.
MANTEINENCE AND OPERATION OF IRRIGATION INFRAESTRUCTURE INTRODUCTION The Colca Valley agriculture is peculiar for its low irrigation technique. Among the main problems of this area are the handling of water and the irrigation system deterioration due to lack of maintenance. On the last few years, private and government institutions have done works of irrigation systems at a high cost; if maintenance work is not periodically done on these systems they will not last as long as they are expected to do. The rustic (stone, earth and others) and permanent (concrete) irrigation system maintenance must be programmed as an extra activity of the farm work (canal, floodgate and sand-clearer cleaning); This way the construction life-span is secured and greater availability of water, which is scarce here, is also guaranteed. This work is also intended for those farmers who use the irrigation system facilities and water administrators as well as for the authorities that are directly involved in the control and supply of water. The irrigation system maintenance works are directed to the Comisiones de Regantes (Irrigators Commissions) but the people who actually use each canal are the ones who will be interested in securing the proper use of water on their farms. DESCO - Centre for the Research and Promotion of Development APACOLCA - Association of Farmers in the Colca Vallet Project: Seed Production and Resource Management in Ichupampa Colca Valley Rural Programme Team Work Lower Area DESCO Garcilazo de la Vega 210, Chivay, caylloma, Arequipa Domingo Gamio 112, Umacollo, Arequipa.
PARTS OF THE IRRIGATION SYSTEM 1. OUTLET This is the hydraulic structure which collects the water and takes it to the channel. 1.1 PARTS Wall - for channeling the water Barrier - to divert the water Entrance for the water to enter the channel Well for sand and stone removal Scouring sluice for removal of material accumulated in the well Overflow channel Flood gate to regulate the water flow. 1.2 MAINTENANCE Stones deteriorate the infrastructure and therefore it requires repair using cement, stones or other materials. The main problem with the floodgates is corrosion. 2. MAIN CHANNELS These are the most important in the irrigation system. 2.1 WHY DO THEY DETERIORATE? The reasons for deterioration are as follows: Heavy rain, animals, lack of flow control, plants. 2.2 MAINTENANCE Channels must be cleaned at least twice a year by the community. a. Slightly sloping earth channels. When these are cleaned, digging must not be too deep. The interior sloping walls must be cleaned inwards. When a channel has been affected by landslides or too much filtration, compressing can be carried out to repair, using the following: Clay Stones Soil compacting To compress adequately: Measure the original channel (width of base and height of walls, as well as slope.) Excavate to form a new channel. Excavate for the walls. Add the clay to the ditches and compress it in 10 cm layers. Check the quality of the compression, using a pick. Add rocks to slopes and floor to avoid erosion.
b. Concrete channels The main problem with the concrete channels is fissures and cracks. In order to maintain these, they must be repaired with cement and sand. Trees must be planted to control landslides. Infiltration ditches can control the run-off. 3. THE RESERVOIR The water that enters the reservoir drags the earth that accumulates causing a diminished capacity for storing water; obstruction and corrosion of earth walls. MAINTENANCE Withdraw the earth deposits in the desilter and the reservoir. If the walls are made of earth, always maintain the slope and use rocks. Grease and paint the valve of the flood gate. Repair the fissures and cracks in the walls. Protect the walls and surroundings of the reservoir with trees and bushes. 4. OTHERS 4.1 FLOW MEASURE It is of great importance to regulate the quantity of water that the crops and land require. In order to measure accurately, the channels must be cleaned frequently. 4.2 LATERAL CHANNELS These are located in the high parts of each irrigation sector all along the main channel. The flood gate must always be made of wood or metal. 4.3 AQUEDUCT Used for crossing a road or stream. 4.4 CHUTE These are used for water from streams in the rainy season to flow over the channel without damaging it. 4.5 DRAINS These must be built in places where channels cross roads. They must be maintained to avoid blockages. 4.6 FALLS These are located in places where the land is very uneven. The water must fall vertically into a well. This avoids erosion. 4.7 RAPIDS These are structures which enable the water to pass over very uneven and steep land. A well for calming the water torrent is necessary. It must be kept clean. 4.8 WATERFALL STEPS These are used for taking the water over very steep and uneven ground. 4.9 IRRIGATION CONTROL STRUCTURES These are lateral turnouts which divert the water to a natural stream for maintenance purposes. 4.10 WATERING PLACE These must be located in places where animals pass. Frequent maintenance is necessary. ARQUITECTURE AND URBANISIM IN THE COLCA VALLEY INTRODUCTION This article is a description of architectural and urban development in the Colca Valley. It also introduces the reader to an understanding of the architecture and urban development in the valley as an answer to the social, cultural, historical and physical factors of Collagua life.
ARCHITECTURE Evolution of urban and architectural structures throughout history Pre-hispanic period The villages were spread along the Colca valley forming "Ayllus", divided into two parts: Hanan Saya and Hurin Saya. The dwellings were organically organised around a central space. Religious symbols were represented by elements of nature (hills, snow capped mountains). The Incas imposed a political organization represented by the "curaca" (chief) in each Ayllu. Colonial period The indian population was forced to live in new urban groups in order to collect taxes and have manual labour easily accessible. The streets were formed by blocks, around a central square, with a church and the town council. A new type of rectangular dwelling was imposed, with the door facing onto the street. The villages were still divided into two areas, socially and by location. The "Curacas" no longer had supreme authority but shared it with the new mayors. Republican period The Independence did not constitute a social revolution. Colonial architecture did not change. However, a new concept of dwelling arose. The house looked inwards onto an interior patio. The new State political system named the Colca villages as districts. The 60's, 70's and 80' of the XX century The Agricultural Reform brought about a substantial change in the ownership of the land in Peru. Many large estate owners disappeared and made way for small farmers. Many new buildings appeared such as schools, markets and medical centres. New materials such as cement, corrugated iron and iron were used. Commerce and consumption of consumer goods increased due to the arrival of the MACON Irrigation Project and shops began to appear. Shops were an integral part of a house. The villages are still organised into groups according to location. This facilitates community participation for public works. The present type of building The buildings today are all organised around an interior patio. However, some houses are used for shops, others include animals pens. Houses can also be of different shapes. The dwellings - spatial distribution Some areas are covered, such as the kitchen, the entrance, the bedroom, store room. Others are open, such as the patio, pens and gardens. Some houses are very simple with the basic patio, kitchen, one all-purpose room and the animal yard. Others have more rooms. The kitchen is used only for the purpose of cooking. It is small, dark and for the family. The owner participates actively in building the house, choosing the materials and design and in giving the house a name and status. Religious elements are always present in the house (candles, niches, etc.). The family, neighbours and some builders all help to build the house. Social and Cultural Aspects The dwellings are divided into common and more open areas where celebrations and get- togethers can take place, and more intimate areas which are only for the family members, such as the kitchen, bedroom and store room. Once the roof is finished, there is a ritual celebration which involves giving the house a name and spirit. Social and community gatherings take place in the patio, the streets and the square. The calendar of these celebrations is based on the agricultural calendar. Bull fighting is also a popular community celebration. If there is no bull-ring, it is carried out on any convenient open space. Within community life there are three important moments when people get together: when the roof of a house is finished, a marriage and a funeral. Building Materials Traditional materials Earth - The sand and clay proportions in the soil are ideal for building. The earth is also thermal. It is used in the foundation and as bricks. Adobe - This is a brick made of mud mixed with straw and ichu. It is thermal and mainly used for walls. To make adobes the mud is prepared first with the appropriate addition of straw. Then it is placed into moulds and dried in the sun. Stone - This is used for various different parts of the house. It is easily acquired in the rivers or nearby and transported by truck or donkey and cart. Wood - This is mainly used for roofs or doors and windows. Straw - This is a material which has been used for hundred of years. It is mainly used for thatched roofs and also to mix for adobes. The most common are straw made from ichu and also straw made from barley. Straw does need appropriate maintenance. Industrial materials The most common industrial and non- traditional material is corrugated iron. It is being used more and more to replace straw for roofs. Acoustically and thermally speaking, it is not appropriate. RELIGIOUS ARCHITECTURE Colca Churches Churches were built in the Colca in order to present a symbol of Christianity within the indian villages. The Collaguas built and decorated these large, impressive churches and were well known for their artistic abilities. Most of the Colca churches are surrounded by vestibules or esplanades. Luis Enrique Tord states that most of the churches were built between the last third of the XVII century and the beginning of the XIX century. Nearly all the churches are in the shape of a Latin cross, have a large nave, access to the tower from inside and chapels. Nearly all the churches have two square bell towers. They also have open chapels which were for celebrating mass with the indians in the open air. IMMACULATE CONCEPTION CHURCH IN YANQUE Construction The old church was built by the Franciscans towards the end of the XVI century, but fell down in 1690. Indians, in groups, organised by the Spaniards, worked on the building with the traditional rituals and celebrations. Unfortunately the church went on fire in 1802 and many valuable objects were destroyed. What was left was used, along with donations and community efforts, to repair the church. Several different types of craftsmen worked on the church, such as painters, sculptors, carpenters, brick-makers and tile-makers as well as stone masons and builders. Church This church has a typical architecture of the time with a long main nave, the shape of a cross and two towers. The two extraordinary facades of this church are beautifully decorated with relief. There is a deteriorated image of the Virgin Mary. The decoration includes flowers, fruit and leaves. Saints are also depicted there along with the figure of a Bishop on horse back with a sceptre in his hand. He was Bishop Antonio de Leon (1700 and 1702). This facade is unique in the region but has similar characteristics to some in Cajamarca, Central America and Mexico. The facade facing the square is different and shares Renaissance and Baroque designs, which is difficult to explain. There are monograms of Christ and Mary as well as the Franciscan arms. Other decorative elements include lions, eagles, dragons and vegetables. Cobbled stones The entrance has coloured cobbled stone, which presents various decorative designs. The outlines are mainly in brown and white. The following designs can be seen: a rhombus, two circles and the sun with eleven rays including two eyes, nose and lips. There are other circles and a half moon on a rectangle. THE PURISIMA CONCEPCION CHURCH IN LARI Building This is one of the most spectacular churches in the Colca Valley and the only one which completed the full design of the Latin cross and a dome. The church was built during the second half of the XVIII century by the Priest Juan Bautista Ramos who started it in 1758. The church was 83 metres long and 11 metres wide. The dome was made by the Priest Luis Lazo de la Vega. Despite the grandeur of this church, the village had less than 1000 inhabitants. The Priests and Church would donate large sums of money for these constructions and the inhabitants would provide the manual labour. Repairs were made later to the church in the XIX century, due to an earthquake, a fire and also faults in construction. Certain parts of the church were built in strict imitation of the large churches in Arequipa. Later a cemetery was also built. The church It is a strong, powerful church, but the towers seem somehow out of place with the main body of the grand church. This type of construction may have been carried out due to the fear of earthquakes. It is built in the shape of the Latin cross with a main nave and a dome. There are two bell towers, topped by small pinnacles. There are many similarities between this church and churches in Arequipa, such as the San Francisco church. Decorations on the facade include white, green and red images on a yellow background. The main altar has impressive carved stone and the pulpit and easel paintings include indian images. The church is separated from the square by a double entrance area, divided by stone pathways. These serve as separations between the profane universe (the village and the square) and the sacred universe (the church). The impressive Lari church once again indicates the historical distinction of Lari as being high- ranking within the Collagua culture. INTRODUCTION This article describes the architecture in the Colca valley and in particular in the Province of Caylloma. This is an agricultural region which is well known for its spectacular terraces, its Barroque churches and tourist attractions. The Colonial aspects of its villages and architecture, are obvious. Yanque was the capital of the Collaguas province; Lari was equally important for the Colonial authorities and Coporaque was the first village to be evangelized by the Franciscans. These three villages were typical of indian villages converted to christianity and re-organized by the Spaniards. The article is divided into two parts. The first part analyses the use of space in the village and the second part focuses on architectural details. 1. TERRITORIAL PLACEMENT AND SPATIAL FORMATION 1.1 Location characteristics Yanque, Lari and Coporaque are located within the agricultural sector of the Colca valley between 3,200 metres above sea level and 3,800 metres above sea level. Yanque and Lari are built on similar flat ground whereas Coporaque is built on a slope with water running through the middle which breaks the tradition of the typical square village. Yanque occupies a central place which facilitated political and administrative control. Its agricultural land is on both sides of the river. Lari and Coporaque have their fields surrounding them. Most of the inhabitants of these villages are farmers and their lives are linked to the land and not to urban living. 1.2 Physical and spatial organization 1.2.1 Yanque Yanque is a very regular village, in the shape of a grid. This was a characteristic of the indian villages established by the Spaniards. There is a square in the middle. There are two main roads which cross at the square, one runs from East to West (Camino Real) and the other from North to South (Avenida Fray Martin de Porres). The cemetery is in the South. The village ends abruptly on the east where the fields start. This was another Spanish characteristic. Whereas in the North, the village ends far less precisely with a mix of rural and urban characteristics.The village is divided into blocks. 1.2.2 Lari Lari is divided into two different areas: the "new town" which is compact and square, to the North of the church; and the "old town", to the South, which has semi-regular rectangular and trapezoidal blocks. There are buildings which are seemingly pre-Colonial such as one called the "Chief's house". The church is the largest in the valley and the land surrounding it is vast. The limits of the village are difficult to define as the houses have been abandoned and are in ruins. 1.2.3 Coporaque Coporaque has a semi-regular shape with square, rectangular and trapezoidal blocks. The Chillintira river runs through the middle of the village from North to South. This does not however deform the grid shape of the village around the square and church. The blocks around the edges of the village are mainly uninhabited. 1.3 Public space and architectural expression The architectural structures show a desire to structure a new society on the basis of European models. The symbolic value of the church was obvious as it was placed in the centre of the village and was large and of different colours to the other dwellings. The portico or area in front of the church symbolized the transition between the sacred and the profane. The square was fundamental and used for traditional feasts, dances and processions. It was also used for markets or transport. 1.4 Churches and convents The churches in the Colca have been studied for their religious architecture. They are generally in the shape of a Latin cross with one main, high nave. They usually have two square towers with bells. They are built out of ashlar which is white, but black stone was also used in the case of Lari and Coporaque. The Coporaque church, which apparently dates back to the XVI or XVII century, has had its old straw roof replaced by metal roof. Later churches, such as Lari and Yanque, have the typical domed roofs of stone and brick. The old convent in Yanque is still in use and is in good condition. It is South of the church. Some fruit trees are grown in the patio and there is a well there. 1.5 The squares 1.5.1 Yanque The main square in Yanque occupies four blocks of land. It is rectangular with the church in the South and other buildings to the North. In the 1930's eucalyptus trees were sown there from East to West. Later other modifications have been made which are alien to the local reality. These variations have neither added to the square's beauty nor to its usefulness as an open space for public gatherings. 1.5.2 Lari The main square in Lari occupies nine blocks of the "new town" and has a trapezoidal shape. The church, municipal stadium and other buildings are to the North, and other houses and shops surround the rest of the square. Some buildings and modifications have been built which inhibit the use of the square and affect the dominance of the church over the square. 1.5.3 Coporaque Coporaque main square occupies around 10,000 m2 and is trapezoidal. The church is at the top of 24 steps. The bull ring is also in the main square area. Fortunately the archways of stone and tiles, which provide access to the square, are still standing. 1.6 The Streets The streets are approximately 4.80 to 6.80 metres wide. The use of cobbled stone to pave roads and/or pavements , has died out. Ditches with water for washing, animals and gardens, run along the middle or sides of the streets, some still in their stone channels. 1.7 Cemeteries The cemeteries in the Colca valley are usually surrounded by a wall, with a doorway and a chapel. In the three villages we have studied, the cemetery is separated by about 200m to 250m from the inhabited area. The Yanque and Lari cemeteries are surrounded by mud brick walls the tomb stones face the entrance. Some cemeteries have tables and places where inhabitants drink after the funeral. 1.8 The bridges The Yanque bridge, known as the Puente Cervantes, is a stone structure in the shape of a triumphal arch built at the end of the Colonial period. The bridle paths leading to it mean that cars cannot cross it but it is well used by inhabitants. 1.9 Bull ring Bull fights are traditional in the Andean villages and are carried out on religious and village feast days. Yanque celebrates these on the 1st of May (Virgen de Chapi), 13th June (San Antonio) and 16th July (Virgen del Carmen). The bull ring is circular and surrounded by a mud brick wall. The Coporaque bull ring is very large compared to the Yanque one. 1.10 Public pools Several public pools are used by inhabitants for washing and swimming. There are some built in Yanque. Coporaque has some spring baths which are used as public swimming baths. 1.11 Stadiums The stadiums are built using standard football field dimensions and a free space for the public. 1.12 Public services infrastructure The inhabitants of rural villages see their basic needs as different to those of the people accustomed to the services offered by urban areas. The water used for domestic purposes comes from the thaw. Most houses have a tap and sink in an outside patio this water must be boiled for drinking. There are no drainage systems. The inhabitants use the fields or animals pens for their needs. Inhabitants get most of their food from their own crops. Meat is obtained through exchange with shepherds. Many of the villages have a diesel operated generator for supplying electricity to the main streets and square. Nearly all the rubbish is organic so it is rapidly devoured by pigs. Other rubbish is burned. There is a medical centre in each village but inhabitants often use medicinal herbs as these centres often lack supplies. There is also usually a Primary school but there is a lack of text books. There is a secondary school in Chivay and an agricultural institute in Yanque. There is a daily bus and there are occasional trucks and cars which are also used for public transport. 2. DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE IN THE COLCA VALLEY 2.1 Housing Architecture depends on the conditions of the environment and the requirements of the village. Ancient buildings and new ones form a strange mix in these villages. The whole family and neighbours and friends participate in the building process. All the stages of the process are accompanied by rituals and celebrations which end in a large party for everyone. In the Colca, the dwellings represent an extension of the farmer's activities which take up most of his day. Therefore all the houses have areas for livestock and crops (vegetable gardens). The size and number of rooms depend on the owner's economic situation and how many people live there. The space distribution within the house is based on traditional Andean architecture. There is flexibility in the use of the rooms and they are built around a patio. The shape also depends on the winds and practicality. The general trend is to have a large room which is used for several purposes (livi ng room, dining room, bedroom and sometimes store room). Only members of the family or close friends or neighbours are allowed in here. Many of these rooms have a type of porch which looks onto the patio and it gives shade and protection. The kitchen tends to be small and dark. It is not necessarily a closed room. Firewood is often used for cooking. There is a store room with containers for grain and other products. It is usually large. The patio is used as the entrance and for receiving visitors. It is also used for celebrations and get-togethers. Chickens and rabbits and occasionally other small domestic animals are kept here. If the living room is too small, a bedroom is built but it is usually used too for storing domestic utensils and others. If a young couple gets married and comes to live with the family, a new kitchen is also usually built. Any buildings with two floors are relatively recent and have been built due to lack of space. If there is a shop within the house, it is often the women of the family who attend the shop. Any workshops usually function within the house and do not have direct access to the exterior. There are also special rooms built in the houses of families which prepare "chicha" ( a fermented corn drink) for storing the fermenting chicha. The vegetable gardens produce basic crops and others such as flowers. 2.2 A Traditional Dwelling There are some traditional elements which most houses have, such as: 1. "Patilla" - a stone or mud brick seat in the rooms or the patio. 2. Niches - for candles, lamps, religious images. 3. Altar - usually in the living room used for sacred images or ritual objects. 4. Water tap - located in the patio. The stone sink has been replaced by a cement sink in some places. 5. "Taquiraa" - a concave receptacle carved into stone for animals to drink from. 6. "Pilana" - this is similar to the Taquiraa and used for grinding grain. 7. Bonfire hearth - in an open area. It is a hole in the ground with stones around it. 8. Oven - this is only present in some homes where bread is made to sell. It is usually made out of mud. 9. Chicken coops and rabbit cages - these are made of wood and metal mesh. 2.3 Basic functioning There are two types of entrance to the dwellings: 1. Direct entrance through the patio. 2. Entrance through an intermediate space or passage (usually roofed). There is no direct access between rooms; the access is through the patio. In Lari, the kitchens tend to be close to the living room and bedrooms to provide heat. 2.4 Size of the rooms The largest rooms are usually between 9 and 13 metres long and 4.50 to 5.50 metres wide. The intermediate ones are around 6 to 9 metres long and are usually bedrooms or store rooms. The smallest rooms are generally the kitchens. The average length is 4.50 metres and the average width, 2.50 metres. 2.5 Technical building aspects 2.5.1 Traditional materials The Colca valley maintains its traditional building system based on the use of stone, mud, wood and straw. "Pirka" is a common material for walls. It is made from stone mixed with mud. Round cobblestones are commonly used for patios and pavements and floors seem to have been made out of flat earth. n"Adobe" or mud bricks seem to date from the Viceroyalty period. This brick is not as resistant as stone but helps maintain comfortable temperatures. Eucalyptus wood is used to replace the ancient species which were used previously, such as the queua and the quishar which are practically extinct. Straw is used on roofs to keep out rain and maintain temperatures. The roof is made of barley and wheat straw and ichu. The former two are used due to the lack of availability of ichu from the high mountains. 2.5.2 Non-traditional materials Corrugated iron is now used a great deal, as it is cheap and easy to install. Bricks and iron are used in modern, public buildings. Some people have used metal tubes sold at cheap prices by the Majes Project, for making doors. 2.6 Thermal insulation: heat gain and loss The climate is well known for its radical changes in temperature during the day and night and therefore materials which help to maintain a comfortable temperature, are needed. Adobe and pirka bricks are ideal materials. Straw is also an excellent material for the roofs. Corrugated iron, however, does not maintain a comfortable temperature. Windows and doors are also built small so as not to let in too much cold or heat. 2.7 Ventilation and illumination There is not much ventilation in most cases. Windows are small and look out onto the patio. Some have been covered. Glass windows only exist in modern buildings. The older buildings have wooden windows which are usually shut. The rooms are very dark. 2.8 Acoustic isolation The noise in these areas does not come from traffic but rather from the wind, rain and thunder, especially the latter two. Straw roofs help reduce sound. 2.9 Building process The characteristics of a particular dwelling are not based on written plans but rather on the requirements of the owner and experience of the builders. Spades and picks are used to dig ditches and stone and mud foundations are placed in them. On occasions, depending on the soil, the mud must be mixed with straw in varying quantities. The adobes are made with wood moulds and are left to dry in the sun. Adobe walls use eucalyptus or stone for the lintels. The walls are sometimes covered with mud afterwards. Stone wall building is relatively slow as the mortar has to dry. Some walls have stones and mud bricks. Eucalyptus is now used for roof structures even though it is inferior to the ancient queua and quishar wood. It needs treatment against woodworm. The logs used to be tied together with llama or sheep leather, but now nails and wire are used. 2.10 Roofs 2.10.1 Straw roofs This is the traditional material used for roofs in the Colca valley. Mud tiles have not really become popular. The best time of the year to thatch or re-thatch is the dry season, between April and November. 1. The material used for tying the straw is made out of the "chillihua" plant which is cut, dried and then wet and made into ropes. The straw is tied while the rope is still wet. When dry, it is tough and resistant. 2. Straw is laid on the roof structure and tied. 3. A second layer of straw is added. The straw may be barley or wheat straw. 4. A layer of "chilca" plant is added which has thin branches which help to fix the ichu. The branches must be green so that when they dry they are tight. Some "chac'mare" branches are also used. 5. Ichu is added finally. The more ichu is added, the more waterproof the roof is. The average thickness of a roof is 25 cm but one it has been re-thatched several times it can be up to 40 cm thick. 2.10.2 Metal roofs Corrugated iron roofs are economic and simple to install. Gutters are usually put in too. The sheets of metal are nailed on and stones are placed on top. 3. CONCLUSION The article has presented the historical, social and technological aspects of the architecture in Yanque, Lari and Coporaque which are three of the 16 indian villages formed by the Spaniards in the 1570's. They retain a great many of the original architectural characteristics. Hector Llosa, the researcher, considers that the traditional architecture meets the basic needs of the inhabitants within their environment. The modern additions are economically acceptable but are imported from urban areas which do not share the same needs or environment. However these changes do show the flexibility of the Andean inhabitants in accepting new elements and ideas. FOLKLORE FROM THE COLCA VALLEY INTRODUCTION The dictionary defines folklore as the body of traditions, stories, legends and customs of a country. Customs include food and drink, dances, rituals and beliefs of a human group. I DANCES 1. LOCAL DANCES The Qamili This is a fertility dance which is danced during the sowing season on the farm land of the patron saints, mainly Saint Isidro. The qamili is best danced in Chivay, Coporaque and Cabanaconde. On the set day, the steward of the farm goes to the plot of land with the dancers, musicians and people accompanying him. A hole is made in the ground, ceremonial objects are placed inside and it is covered with stones. The dance has its origin in ancient Inca myths. The group of dancers of 6 to 12 couples arrives, one of which represents the main characters (San Isidro Labrador and the Pachamama - mother earth)., The dancers sow the seed as they dance. The rhythm of the dance requires great skill and physical stamina. Sara Tarpuy The dance, like that of the qamili, refers to farming, this time to the harvest. It is very typical of Madrigal. The costumes are marvellous. The dancers dance to qamili, wititi and sometimes hauyno music, which is very popular. 2. PAGAN-CHRISTIAN DANCES The Turku Tusuy dance from Chivay and the Inti Killa from Tuti. The Turku Tusuy is a catholic ritual dance which represents the triumph of catholicism over the Callagua people. It is based on a catholic procession and pays homage to the Nuestra Seora de la Asunta of Chivay as the Patron saint. The dance represents a series of characters of Spanish and Inca origins. Variations of the dance are: Inti Killa of Sibayo and the Tuti which are also an affirmation of christianity in the area. The music is simple and adopts a war like rhythm and later a ceremonial and slow melody. During the procession the dancers dance together and periodically pay reverence to the Virgin, finally entering the church for the blessing from the priest. Then the dancers take off their costumes and dance in the streets to a band. The Turku Tusuy is an affirmation of the christian faith represented by Christ's mother. The victory on the cross is related to the Spanish victory over the arabs and so the conquered peoples accept the new religious symbols. However, acceptance is not total as the Inca carried a corn plant instead of a sceptre which represents some type of resistance. The leaves of the corn are withered as a sign of mockery. Los Negritos from Chivay The presence of negroes in the area was frequent as they came from the coast as workers in the mines. They became sweet sellers in the processions and became integrated into the communities. At the Seora de la Asunta de Chivay patron saint procession, groups of two to four dancers are employed and paid. Their attitude is not that of negro slaves but that of free negroes. There are other areas in Peru where similar dances occur but there is more lavish detail. 3. CELEBRATION DANCES These dances are carried out during the rainy summer in the farming villages in Collaguas in the Colca valley, from Tuti to Taya. Wifala means "dance banner" and this is the name of the dance. Wit'iti is the name given to the dance from the Quechua verb "witiy" which means "make love". This is then a love dance with certain erotic elements. The dance is part of the celebrations in honour of the patron saint. At the time of the procession, lavish clothing and quilts are placed before the altar. The wifala is danced in pairs, generally couples in love. The music is not sung but has accompanying words. The dance represents a clear view of past legends. The Coporaque village did not give itself up easily to the Inca troups; there was resistance, led by Princess Mamallachi, who in a legend takes the name of Waysha (flirt). Finally she is overcome and is a victim of lust. The wit'iti is based on history but is also about the union between a man and a woman and has strong erotic and religious elements. This dance can only be found in the Colca valley. The Wayllacha This is a round dance where people hold hands in a circle. A social feast generally begins and ends with this. The melody used is the huayno played with wind and string instruments. There is no special costume used. It has been put into practice since before the Spaniards arrived. Phujllay bulls The Spanish Conquest brought bull fights. However, they are different in the Colca valley. The bulls do not die and the fighters are not trained. The animal is respected and almost venerated. The greeting to the bull The night before there are ritual offerings to the Pachamama, with music and gatherings of people. There is a procession to the bull ring to greet the bull and after food and drink, there is a celebration at the bull fighter's home. The Main Bull Fight The fight begins at one or two in the afternoon. The custom is that the first animals let loose are the weaker ones. The Kacharpari After food and the fight, the band plays and everyone dances in the ring. The following year's bull fighter in charge is elected. The animals are thanked and are led to a place for rest and food. The Chujchu of Cabanaconde This is a dance which represents the journeys carried out by the Cabanaconde inhabitants towards the coastal valleys taking fruit and where they would get malaria. During the dance they give fruit, olives and chillis. The music is played with wind and string instruments. The Qhasqa of Taya and Lluta This is an agricultural celebration in order to clean the irrigation channels. After offerings have been made, the cleaning begins. The feast is made to receive those who have been brave enough to travel far to clean the top parts near the snow and Ampato to ensure that water is provided. There is abundant food, drink and music. The Majeo or Countryman This is a dance for men only remembering those who travelled far to carry coastal products such as pisco, figs and others from the coast to the highlands. They also carried the message of freedom and independence at the time of the independence war against the Spaniards. The music is played with string instruments. II PAGAN-CHRISTIAN TRADITIONS The Steward The steward was always in charge of the festivities of the religious processions in the villages of the Colca. He would employ the services of those required. In fact in some places the patron saint has land which the steward can farm while he is a steward. The Altars There are people devoted to the patron saint and in charge of setting up the altars in the streets which the image of the saint will pass by. "Previstas" These women are in charge of flower arranging for the saint's image. They are usually young single women who help the current Steward. III OTHER FOLKLORE The Warmichacuy This is when the hand of a girl is asked for in marriage. The young woman's hand is asked for in a meeting between the parents of the couple. It is almost always carried out at night. This is carried out when the couple, after sexual encounters, has decided to live together. They usually begin to live at the woman's house and must have one or two children. If the man lives up to the woman's family's expectations, the couple move to live at the man's home. After living in both homes and after having been accepted by both families marriage is considered. Carnivals These are celebrations brought from Spain. It is a time to visit the family. It is a celebration of youth, happiness and love. There are street processions with white flags as symbols of peace and songs paying homage to the home, animals and the mother earth. The Fiestas de la Cruz During the month of May there are celebrations in honour of the Sacred Cross, the symbol of Christianity. It is also a symbol of the good husband. On the 3rd of May women pay homage to their husbands, asking the Cross to grant her a good husband. The Puuchiy The puuchiy (to put to sleep) is a unique ceremony which is traditional and significant in married life. It is carried out by the godparents of the new couple. The godparents lead the couple separately to the previously prepared nuptial bed and give advice to each on marriage. Other godchildren pretend to be jealous and put up a fight. IV FOOD AND DRINK Each village in the valley has different typical food and drink. FOOD In the Colca valley a typical type of food is roast beef, mutton, alpaca and llama meat and pork. "Chupe" is a special type of thick soup. Guinea pig is cooked in many different ways in different villages. Custard type desserts are also typical using corn starch. There is also chicken stew. DRINKS Tafia or an alcoholic drink made with sugar cane is prepared in many different ways in the different villages.
V FUNERAL CEREMONIES As soon as someone dies the body is placed in another room for the wake. A special game of a type of dice is played. Later food and drink are served after having buried the body. Many believe in ghosts and that the coffin leaves the church and travels around. VI TRADITIONAL MEDICINE Good health in this region often depends on the resources of traditional medicine and rituals. Many men and women know how to diagnose frequent illnesses and how to treat them using herbs, including the frequent use of coca leaves. Witch doctors are also consulted. VII WORLD VIEW AND ANIMISM The inhabitants of the Collagua region observe in detail the cosmos, he geography and the environment of the region. Everything that is alive has a soul. The Andean world is a live world; everything is alive, not only humans and animals. The complex and detailed relationships between the groups of inhabitants and families show a different world full of rituals and offerings to the Pachamama. Although these rituals vary, they are all based on offerings of alpaca or llama fat, coca leaves and corn, Different colours in the offerings mean different aspects such as friendship or strength. The offerings are very complex. The Wilaja or Wilacha This is the supreme offering to the Pachamama with the blood of a live animal, usually a llama or alpaca. Again, the offering is detailed and specific in the rituals and objects used. Irrigation ditches Digging or cleaning irrigation ditches is a community affair organized by a mayor. There is a detailed order for this and everyone must participate. There are music and ceremonies organized. Rutuchi This is a custom which celebrates the child's first hair cut. There are godparents and gifts. VIII CRAFTS The crafts have changed over the years. Some typical crafts are disappearing, such as weaving as most clothes are bought ready made. Many women now embroider. Hats have also changed their styles with the arrival of new fashions. The hat embroidery is very original. IX QUECHUA The Inca language is spoken by over four million people: two million in Peru. It is an agglutinative and very flexible language. There are no root syllables as such. Oral Literature and Collagua stories There is a strong oral literature in the Colca valley which is expressed through stories, legends, myths and rituals. This literature is based on the Pachamama, the hills, lakes and rivers. Humans change into animals and animals change into humans, usually for love. They are also linked to the sun, the stars and other natural elements. MAYTA CAPAC MYTHS IN THE COLCA VALLEY FROM VILLAGE TO VILLAGE THE INCA ASKED THE INDIANS
For a significant part of the illiterate population, in the Colca for example, which had inherited a culture which did not use writing, an oral, changing, and at times divergent tradition, is the way in which world view is expressed. It is the appropriate expression of their community conscience. In Chivay, the Inca called to the Indians from the other side of the river. "What do you want over there on the other side of the river?" he asked. The Indians answered, "We want plenty of food". The Inca answered, "Let there be plenty of barley and plenty of quinua." And to this day there is plenty of barley and plenty of quinua. In Yanque, the Inca asked the Indians, "What do you need?" Amazed, the Indians answered arrogantly, "Nothing!" They spoke that way because they had all the food they needed. There was a great deal of water from the springs and the mountains. When the Inca saw their attitude, he was angry and said, "You lazy people! You don't need anything, ....you asked for it!" The Inca dried up the springs and that is why to this day the people of Yanque steal the water from Chivay. The water comes to Yanque from the Huaranccate, a hill which belongs to Chivay. The people of Yanque went to war waving their slings for the water. Some died and they won the war against the people of Chivay. That is why they take their water. When the Inca arrived at Maca, he asked the Indians the same question, "What do you need?". They answered quickly, "We need water." That is why he left them water in their hill. And that is why water still flows from inside the hill towards the river and there is enough for all.
Later the Inca asked the people of Pinchollo, "What do you need?" Just as the Indians were about to answer, the Inca farted and that is why there is so much wind to this day in Pinchollo. The Indians were so frightened that they said nothing. When the Inca arrived at Cabanaconde, they treated him well. There the Indians said, "We want to be good people and we want good food." The Inca took out his sack of well picked corn and gave it to the Indian Chief saying," The Indians of the village will eat this." That is why to this day, soft, delicious corn grows there and that is why the inhabitants have lovely faces and speak sweetly. The Inca did not manage to get to Tapay and the Indians there had not gathered together either. If the Inca had spoken to them, the fruit that grows there would be even more tasty than it is. When the Inca went to Tisco, he said, "What do you want?" They say that the Indians answered, "We want to dress well." That is why the Inca left the gold and silver mines ajar so that they could later be discovered; that is why they say that there could be gold and silver in those places.. Then the Inca descended to the village of Sibayo. There he asked the Indians and they said, "We want to eat bushes which live in the water." So the Inca said, " Every year you must harvest seaweed, cracked objects, broken pots and so many things that can be found in the sea." They say that to this day in Sibayo all types of stories are told about ancient peoples. In Callalli, the Inca asked the Indians the same question, "What do you want?" There the Indians answered, "We want large houses." That is why the Inca built great palaces. They say that these palaces have become the rocks that you can now see. Even to this day people ask why they say that the tola bushes could have been people's food. When the Inca got to Caylloma, he spoke to the Indians who lived there. Then they replied, "Whatever you want." That is why the Inca did not leave bushes, or anything to sow. To this day the people of Caylloma live off excrement. They gather the llama excrement in barrows to cook because there are no plants. They say that the Inca also went to Tuti. They say there were still Indians or inhabitants from the days of the gentiles; and it is there that the Indians had great faith in the Inca. The Inca even stayed and lived there for a long time and was happy to give them all types of plants which could be seen from the Pumunuta hill. They say that to this day there is a cave on Pumunuta and deep inside there is a hanging corn cob which is the size of a tall man. Some say that farming in Tuti only started when the Inca arrived. ART IN THE COLCA VALLEY For a long time the Colca valley has had an enormous wealth of cultural heritage, a product of the creativity of the inhabitants of the region in different periods. The expressions of this creativity are ideological as well as material, for example: oral tradition, customs, dances, rituals, works of art, architecture, etc. The works of art in the churches have been affected by the passing of time and the alterations made by man. Any restoration work carried out is done by trained young people from the area who can continue this work in the future. ART AND EVANGELISM IN THE COLCA The language and pre-hispanic religious beliefs in the valley were barriers that hindered the interests of the Crown. Artistic expression was an effective instrument for overcoming the Andean rituals and for imposing new religious concepts based on Catholicism. The Franciscans were the first to evangelize the Colca area and a church was built in Coporaque. Idols were changed for crosses and altars. Schools were also formed for the children. Many artists, part of the religious group, arrived from Europe. They were added to the competition of how many natives could be added to the religion. Lope de Suazo was in charge of forming villages of indians in appropriate places far from their old haunts where they might be drawn back to old religious practices. The indians did not accept with ease and had to be forced. During the XVI century the art is in a purely European style. It is only towards the end of the XVII century and especially in the XVIII century that the style becomes a mixed "mestizo" style. ARTISTIC DEVELOPMENT IN THE COLCA Initially works of art were brought from Europe and the first artists followed these styles. After some years, due to the need to find materials to teach indians about religion, schools were formed in Cuzco, Huamanga, La Paz and Quito. The artists would send their work or go and live temporarily in the villages where new styles began to appear. The experience which the artists gained was transferred to their children. This was a prehispanic custom. Family associations were formed. SCULPTURE Prehispanic Much has been said about the influence of the prehispanic, well developed, techniques (such as the use of maguey) on the colonial sculpture, but it is difficult to prove this. The prehispanic "dolls" made of wood and cloth were very well developed and used for religious purposes. The Incas, however, forbade these dolls. So the gap between the pre-Inca dolls and the colonial sculptures spreads over about 1000 years. Spanish sculpture The Spaniards always preferred wood carvings and polychrome. They brought these techniques to Latin America. During the XVI and XVII centuries a great many sculptures were imported from Europe. The indians soon added their own details using their own experience of making idols and using their own techniques. Renaissance and Manneristic art It was around 1570, towards the end of the Conquest when the Viceroyalty was established, that wood carving in maguey and also the use of cloth, began. Maguey was soft, light and easy to work with. The techniques for using these materials developed as the years went by. The last third of the XVI century and the first third of the XVII century The Spanish sculptors had to work rapidly during this period to decorate the churches. They were masters in polychrome and carving. They began also to use cedar wood and built retables, altars, pulpits and others. Sculpture during the Baroque period (1640-1700) Only some variations occurred during this period. Cotton began to be used in some areas. However, techniques were improved. Towards the end of the period images were made in order to be dressed and taken in religious processions. The "mestizo" Baroque and Realism (XVIII century) Art in Europe declined towards the end of the XVIII century, after the classical style period. Sculpture evolved towards realism. Crystal eyes and dresses, wigs, beards and eyelashes began to be added to sculptures. Nails made out of horn, began to be added to the statues and they were dressed using fine traditional costumes made with typical dyes of the time. Plaster faces were also made and details, such as eyes, teeth, tongues, tears and so on, were added. The face was always polychromic. Wigs were sometimes made out of real women's hair for special statues. By the end of the period there were great workshops and demands were made from abroad. Works were exported and this brought an increase in production, which in turn caused poor quality. Sculpture during the XIX century Sculpture continued to follow Colonial moulds, even after the Republic began. However, later the cloth began to take on a more industrial form and crowns turned to diadems. The colours were colder in Neoclassical style. The republics began to depend on England and France. Sculptures were imported from Italy, France and England, made of bronze and marble for the homes of the high officials. Paper also began to be used. Tools Sculptors used tools used by carpenters but during the XVIII century, use of tools and care of the maguey decreased. Techniques and materials There were many different types of materials such as wood, plaster, glue, maguey and cloth. Relief techniques were used for decoration and on hard materials. Some sculptors used assembly techniques using iron pins. Sculptors made images, statues and retables, and used polychrome. Towards the end of the XVI century, sculptures began to be made with less sculpture on the body as the image was to be dressed. This would probably save time and materials. They were cheaper too. The iconography which was most popular in the Colca at the time was that of the crucifixion. Other themes were Jesus carrying the cross, the Virgin Mary carrying the Baby Jesus, the Immaculate Conception and various saints. MURAL PAINTING These paintings were made on stone, mud brick, bricks, etc. The first type of mural was the cave paintings. This type of art continued throughout history and during the Colonial period was mainly used for decorating churches. Techniques Not much is known about how the mural paintings were made in the Colca. However, the most common technique was that of applying Contay (white earth) with cactus juice and then on the dry white surface, local earth colourings were added after having been mixed with glue and egg beaten with water. The mural painting was carried out by a group of people led by the master who painted the most complicated and detailed parts. Cave paintings Prehistoric and other paintings were painted directly onto the wall. Sumbay: There are some impressive cave paintings there which date back many thousands of years. They used white, cream, yellow and red to represent the fauna of the time. Scenes from daily life were also painted there. Colonial mural painting The building of the first churches goes hand in hand with the beginning of mural painting in the Colca. It is complementary to architecture and must form part of it. During earthquakes, some churches were ruined or destroyed along with their murals. All mural painting in the Colca is applied on dry backgrounds after having sketched the outlines in carbon. This type of painting was not so much religious as decorative. Some of the motifs are vegetables, such as corn, and also flowers. But there are also religious themes, for example in Chivay, where Jesus' baptism is painted. A great many of the mural paintings from the XVI, XVII and XVIII centuries have been lost and covered. EASLE PAINTING Cuzco was the main centre for painting during the Viceroyalty. It was the centre for cultural, social, ecclesiastical and political activities in the South. It is known as the Cuzco School of Art. At the time of the Conquest, Cuzco already had a deep artistic tradition which came from pre-Inca and Inca times. During the XVI century, Cuzco art was influenced by European work. Later, Viceroy Francisco de Toledo visited and ordered paintings depicting the Incas and scenes from Cuzco, painted by indians. Up until the XVII century, techniques were affected by a Manneristic influence along with the start of mural painting in churches in the countryside. In 1583 a Jesuit by the name of Bernardo Bitti arrived. He imposed the taste for the Roman Mannerism. Thus, many Europeans influenced the artistic styles of the Peruvian artists and in particular the Cuzco school. One of the techniques applied there was that of adding a dark grey brown with ashes, to the paintings. It is difficult to say when oil painting began. It was probably used since the beginning of the XVII century. First carbon sketches were made on a pink and sienna background and then the other details were added. In the XVIII intense colours were used, especially red. As rapid techniques were used, the Cuzco paintings have not lasted well. THE VALLEY CHURCHES The Chivay church: This church has been modified and was rebuilt in the XVIII century. The retable was made of stucco and there is one which is made in a clear Baroque and Cuzco style. The mural paintings date back to the XVII and XVIII centuries and can still be seen. It is another of the churches which was whitewashed, covering many of the mural paintings. "Immaculate Conception" Yanque church: This was built by the Collaguas and originally dates back to the XVI century. But was probably rebuilt since then. Its facade is ornamented with vegetables. Maca church: This church is deteriorated due to an earthquake in 1991. It has an interior mural painting and gilded retable. "San Pedro de Alcantara" Cabanaconde church: This is a late church built after the 1784 earthquake with a Neoclassical facade. Inside there are Cuzco paintings. "Santiago Apostol" Coporaque church: This is the oldest church in the valley. It has steps leading up to it. There has been obvious deterioration over the centuries. The work inside shows art from different periods. "San Sebastian" Coporaque church: This was built around 1565 when the Franciscans were living there. There are mural paintings with the Sun and Moon. "San Juan Bautista" Ichupampa church: The church was built in the XVII century. Later on the church was affected by an earthquake in 1784. It was rebuilt in the XVIII century and was added to a great many times. "Purisima Concepcion" Lari church: This was built in 1785 or 1768. It has extraordinary dimensions in relation to other buildings in the village. It has a huge dome. There are two important paintings inside - The Lord of the Earthquakes and the Ascension of the Virgin Mary. The two paintings are linked. "Santiago" Madrigal church: This is one of the oldest churches in the valley. It is built in Renaissance style. Saint James fighting against the Moors is the main figure in the relief work at the entrance. There is a silver processional cross among other works of art. "Santa Cruz" Tuti church: it has only one bell tower and is one of the smallest in the valley. It has an impressive pulpit in Renaissance style. "San Antonio de Padua" Callalli church: Its main facade is similar to that of Ichupampa. The painted retable is no longer Colonial style but was painted near the Independence. "San Juan Bautista" Sibayo church: This was built in 1692, it has easle paintings probably painted by artists from the region. ICONOGRAPHY Saint Ambrosio: One of the four fathers of the church. 7th of December. His icons are: book, whip, church and bee hive. Saint Ana: Mother of the Virgin Mary and Saint Joaquin's wife. Her name means grace. Her icons are an open book, red tunic and green shawl. She was the weavers and millers patron saint. 26th July. Saint Andrew: One of the twelve disciples. He was a fisherman and Saint Peter's brother. 30th November. Guardian Angel: Represented as a young man who points to the sky with his right hand. 2nd of October. Balthazar: One of the three Kings. A young , dark man wearing a turban or crown, riding on a camel, offering gold to the baby Jesus. Symbolizes the African continent. Saint Buenaventura: Born in 1221. Victim of an incurable disease but healed by Saint Francis of Assisi. Became a Cardenal. Holds an open book, a quill and a small church. 14th July. Good Shepherd: The image of a young Jesus carrying a sheep on his shoulders. Saint Catalina: Patron saint of Italy and protector of the Pope. Born in Italy in 1347. Saint Cecilia: Martyr saint who it is said invented the organ. 22nd November. Patron saint of musicians. Saint Clara of Assisi: Born in Italy in 1194. She formed a convent of nuns. She was the patron saint of washerwomen. 12th of August. Christ: Most of them depict a crucified Christ. Peruvian artists who painted him were asked to be left alone and their food was left at the door. Crucified Christ: This was painted with different numbers of nails in his hands and feet. Christ of Huanca: This is a stone sculpture of Christ being beaten. It is half way between the San Salvador district and the old Yanantin mines. There are two versions of its origin. One is that the image appeared to an indian who was running away from the mines and told the indian to return. Another version was the healing of a man in Potosi and Christ told him to visit him in Huanca. Christ of the Holy Sepulchre: He is part of the Good Friday processions. Christ of the Sugar Cane: He is known for the crown on his head and a cane sceptre in his hand. Christ of the Column: This depicted Christ, half-naked, bleeding with rope around his neck and tied to a column. Christ of the Earthquakes: Worshipped initially in the Triumph chapel and at present in the Cuzco cathedral. This is a statue of crucified Christ made of maguey and carved wood. The cross is made of wood and decorated with silver and gild. The first legend says it was given by an emperor. The second legend says that it was originally the Lord of the Good Death and then changed its name after the 1650 earthquake. Crosses: The cross worship can be celebrated on the 3rd of May linked to the harvest. The cross is carried through the streets. Diego de Alcala: This was a Franciscan saint born in Andalucia. He carried a great cross on one of his shoulders and a basket of bread in one hand. He is the patron saint of the sick. 11th of November. Franciscan order: This was founded in 1208 by Saint Francis of Asissi. There are variations of the Franciscan symbol. One of these is the crossed arms of Christ and Saint Francis on a cross. As from the XVIII the habit was light blue whereas before that the colour was not defined. Finally brown was adopted and the habits were made from sheep wool. Saint Isidro Labrador: This saint looked after sheep and was a farmer. He was a very religious man. He is the patron saint of many farmers. 15th May. Saint Joaquin: Saint Ana's wife and father of the Virgin Mary. He is an old, bearded man. He was patron saint of the weavers. 16th August. Saint Joseph: The virgin Mary's husband. He was a modest carpenter. Pope Pious IX declared him patron of the Universal Church. Saint Teresa was devoted to him. This devotion reached America in the middle of the XVII century. Saint John the Baptist: A Hebrew prophet. He announced Jesus ministry and was decapitated. He is dressed in poor pilgrim clothes. He is the patron saint of sheep and is celebrated on the 25th of June. Jesus as a Child: Christ was often depicted as a child. He was adorned with the images of the Incas but in 1675 the Bishop of Mollinedo ordered these to be taken away and he was only allowed to have the rays of the sun behind his head. 25th December and 6th January. Saint Paul: He was born in one of the intellectual centres of the Roman Empire. During his youth he persecuted the christians. One day Christ appeared to him and he was temporarily blinded. 25th January. Saint Peter: Part of the twelve apostles and saint Andrew's brother. Jesus commended the church to him. Wise Men: Their story is in the Gospel of Matthew. The tradition is that there were three kings but this is not proven. Their visit to the Baby is known as the Adoration of the Wise Men and is celebrated on the 6th January. Santiago el Mayor: He is part of the twelve apostles. He was John the Evangelist's brother. He is also known as James. He is patron saint of Spain in the wars against the Moors and therefore also protected the Spaniards against the indians. He is dressed as a knight on a white horse. Celebrated in Coporaque, Huanca and Madrigal on the 25th of July. Santiago el Menor: He is part of the twelve apostles. He was the youngest of the two Santiagos. He was the first Bishop of Jerusalem. Saint Sebastian: He was a Roman and was a martyr in 288 AD. During the Colonial period he was the patron saint of the indigenous aristocracy and was prayed to when there were epidemics and plagues. Holy Trinity: In Peruvian Colonial art this is depicted as three equal men with crowns, on thrones or standing. The Holy Spirit is on the left, God the Father in the middle and God the Son on the right. Virgin Mary: She is represented as a model of femenine purity. She is a typical case of syncretism as she represents the Roman goddess Venus but when she arrives in Peru, she represents the Pachamama and the Apu. Most of the worship of Mary comes from Spain. Usually she is depicted as a beautiful white woman. Virgin of the Ascension: This comes from the apocryphal gospel of Saint Peter who narrates Mary's ascension into heaven. 15th August. Virgin of the Conception: Symbolizes the moment when the Virgin Mary receives the Child. Immaculate Conception: In 1263, the Franciscans took this image as their patron saint. She is usually depicted as being surrounded by angels with the dove of the Holy Spirit above her head. FLORA AND FAUNA IN THE COLCA VALLEY BIODIVERSITY IN THE RNSAB THE FLORA OF THE COLCA VALLEY, THE SALINAS AND AGUADA BLANCA NATIONAL NATURE RESERVE AND THE JOURNEY FROM AREQUIPA (2,300 metres above sea level to 5,000 metres above sea level) When we travel from Arequipa to the Colca Valley we will climb from 2,300 metres above sea level (desert) to 4,800 metres above sea level (high plateau) and then descend to the Colca river at 3,000 metres above sea level. (inter Andean valley). There are a great many changes in the vegetation as you go along. There is also a variety in the flora (around 300 species), some used as medicines, others as dyes and so on. In the valley, there are the remnants of what were the queoa forests. There are two marked seasons, the rainy and the dry seasons. DESCRIPTION OF THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF VEGETATION Desert type scrub with cacti This area has plants which only grow during the rainy season. Other bushes which remain dry occasionally come green when there is humidity. Scrubland The grass ("ichu") which grows here is typical and gives a yellowish hue to the ground. There is also a greyish pulse called iru-icchu among others. Pasture This area is yellowish in the dry season and green in the rainy season with a short grass called "crespillo" (Calamagrostis breviaristata) , along with the ichu and iru-icchu. "Tola" (Parastrephia lepidphylla, Baccharis buxifolia, among others) bushes This area was full of these types of bushes but due to the indiscriminate extraction of the "tola" bushes, there is another plant, the "canlle" (Tetraglochin Strictum) which grows on the now bare ground. Humid pasture There is a great deal of water in this area. There are springs and a permanent supply of water all year round. The vegetation here is not large in size but very nutritious for the South American camelidae. Yareta (Azorella compacta and Azorella yarita). This is a resinous plant which grows in high altitudes and forms small compact groups like cushions. It was used for fuel and for medicinal purposes. Riverside vegetation The vegetation in this area can be very different and varied. There are bushes such as the "Cantuta" (Cantua candelilla and Cantua buxifolia) known as the Inca Flower, dedicated to the sun and used in religious rites. It is used for dyeing yellow. Queoas This is a wood of queoa plants. There are also other bushes and herbs. The queoa trees have been felled indiscriminately by man for building, tools and carbon. This tree can be found in Chivay, Yanque, Cabanaconde and Huambo. Snowline There is apparently little vegetation in this area due to the altitude. The ground is greyish and there are rocks. However, yellow, orange and green lichen can be seen on these rocks. Scrub with thorny bushes This area is dominated by the "chiri-chiri" bush (Grindelia bergi), along with many other types of bush. Steppe with bushes and herbs There is a great variety of woody bushes as well as other thorny bushes. There is vegetation which only grows during the rainy season and also small cacti. Near to Tapay there are fruit trees. Steppe with Column Cacti Enormous column cacti up to 6 metres tall grow in this area. Their fruit is also used for medicine and some birds eat them too. The Raymondi "Puya" There are only about 150 of this plant. It has been affected by man's intervention. There are other bushes and vegetation around them. Terraces The crops grown on these are typical to the area: potato, corn, broad beans, quinua. They are also used to cultivate imported crops such as wheat and barley and oats and alfalfa. THE FAUNA IN THE COLCA VALLEY AND THE SALINAS AND AGUADA BLANCA NATIONAL NATURE RESERVE MAMMALS Despite their rugged countryside, The Andes have fauna which have adapted to these conditions. In the case of the Colca valley, it is not only rugged but also arid. 32 of the 68 species of mammal in the Colca live in the Salinas and Aguadas Blancas Nature Reserve. The White Tailed Deer and "Tarukas" The Taruka lives high up in the Andes and differs from the White-tailed deer in that it is stronger and the antlers only have two parts. This species is in great danger from hunters. The white tailed deer lives in the lower parts of the Colca valley (Cabanaconde and Huambo). They are also hunted. CARNIVORES There are five species of carnivore in these areas. The Puma This is the largest carnivore and is a solitary animal except when it is being raised by the mother. It adapts easily but needs a great deal of food and that is why its territories are wide. The fact that it is not very common in the Colca is due to the lack of food it can get there. It is also hunted and attacked by man to protect the flocks. It does not attack man however. Osjollo or wildcat This animal is larger than the domestic cat. It feeds off small birds and rodents. Andean fox This is the most common carnivore in the Andes. It is the size of a dog and even attacks domestic livestock, but prefers sick or vulnerable animals. It adapts easily and also eats all types of vegetables and fruit and even leaves. It can help to eliminate rodents and insects. Despite the fact that man attacks it, the fox reproduces quickly and has a great capacity for survival. Skunk This feeds off insects, larva, snails and worms but can also eat rodents, frogs and others. It is a calm and quiet animal. Achocalla (type of weasel) Its name in Quechua means that it is brown on top and white underneath. It is fierce and agile. It eats constantly and can eat a great many rodents. It likes to drink blood and eat brains. Vizcacha and other rodents The vizcacha lives in the rocky areas in the high Andes, all over Peru. It is similar to a rabbit or a squirrel.Its meat is tasty and is occasionally eaten by the inhabitants. It is exclusively herbivore. The other rodents are like mice or rats, of different colours and sizes. The smallest ones mainly eat insects and the larger ones are herbivores. They are small but reproduce fast and control the growth of the vegetation, spreading of seeds and abundance of insects. On the other hand, they do not help the farmers as they invade and consume crops and stored food. Marmots also exist in abundance in the highlands. They eat insects, eggs and fruit and are fierce. There are also bats which have adapted to the high Andes. BIRDS Peru and Colombia have the greatest variety of birds in the world. The Salinas and Aguada Blanca Reserve has 136 registered species. Condors Despite having been worshipped by ancient cultures and being present on four South American coats of arms, little is known about its habits and customs. The condor's habitat is inaccessible. It has been considered to be a sacred bird, a symbol of strength and power and the sun's messenger. It feeds off dead animals. It is almost extinct in other countries but is present in Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina. However, it has many factors against it such as the lack of wild fauna to feed off, the use of pesticides, hunting and others.It is a very heavy bird with a huge wingspan. The condors are well known for being black and white with a white collar. They have bare heads. Their nests are inaccessible and made of a few branches. The condor can live for up to 50 years. Aquatic birds These birds can swim and dive. Their feet and beaks are different. These are found in the lakes and rivers. Amongst these are the ducks, flamingos, sea gulls and Andean geese. There are three registered species of flamingo on Lake Salinas. There are thousands of these birds. There are seven different species of duck. Small birds The birds find shelter from the wind by the rivers and streams and in the bushes. There they find more vegetation and humidity. There are swallows, hummingbirds and others. They feed off fruit, flowers and insects. Giant Hummingbird The hummingbirds have long beaks and tongues and insert these into flowers. They assist pollination. The Giant Hummingbird is the largest in the world (23 cms long). It is aggressive and territorial and chases other hummingbirds. Birds of Prey Eagles Hawks Falcons Owls Nightjar The queoa forests are the home of many birds, some typical only of this area. There may be up to 45 species in a small area of the forest. Some of them have adapted specifically to this area. AMPHIBIANS AND REPTILES Reptiles and amphibians are scarce in this region. There are three amphibian species and five reptiles. The desert and the high altitudes are a hindrance for these types of animals. Frogs and toads stay close to the water and do not freeze at night due to a special substance in their blood. They are occasionally eaten by the inhabitants. There are also snakes and lizards. By PRODENA After many attempts, the Salinas and Aguada Blanca National Nature Reserve was declared a reserve in May 1977 and a National Reserve in August 1979. The declaration is based on the following: Seriously altered natural resources, such as the 10,000 hectares of queoa forests and other species which according to ONER studies existed on the slopes of Misti, Chachani and Pichu-Pichu; the desert encroachment due to the indiscriminate felling of tola and yareta and the near extermination of vicuas and guanacos. The historical value of the evidence found of man's evolution from hunting to domesticating alpacas and llamas and finally to putting them to sustainable use. The need to protect and suitably manage the water basin of the Arequipa valley and irrigation such as that of La Joya, San Isidro and San Camilo. The potential of repopulation, conservation and use of the vicua. The critical situation and poverty of the alpaca and llama breeding. The existing tourist potential, especially as this area is located on the route to the Colca, Puno and Cuzco. The creation of this reserve and particularly the Special Project for Rational Use of the Vicua, was greatly opposed by this sector. OBJECTIVE The conservation of the biological diversity of the high Andean species and the promotion of sustainable use of the natural resources available. FAUNA Among the protected species are the vicua (vicugna vicugna), the guanaco (Lama guanicoe) and the taruca (Hippocamelus antisensis). Among the carnivores are the Andean cat or osjollo (Pseudalopex culpaeus), the skunk (Connepatus rex) and the puma (Puma concolor). Other important species are the vizcacha (Lagidium peruanum) and 10 more rodents. There are around 121 bird species, amongst which are the condor (Vultur gryphus), three species of flamingoes (Phoenicoparrus andinus, Phoenicopterus chilensis, Phoenicoparrus jamesi), the ajoya (Fulica gigantea), the huallata (Chloephaga melanoptera) and three partridges. There are also eight species of amphibians and reptiles. VEGETATION There are around 180 species; some are particularly important, such as the q'eoa (Polylepsis besseri) as it is in danger of extinction and is the dominant species in the ecosystem with the greatest biodiversity in the Andes. Other species are significant due to their use, such as the tola (Parastrephya lepidophylla) and the yareta (Azorella compacta) which are used for fuel. There are also a great many species of gramineae which are fed on by the domestic and wild herbivores. The marsh vegetation is also particularly interesting. SOUTH AMERICAN DOMESTIC CAMELID ORIGIN AND IMPORTANCE OF DOMESTIC CAMELIDAE The Camelidae originated and developed in the North-Western region of North America approximately 16 million years ago. Different groups emigrated to different parts of the world, including one group to South America where it became four species: llama, alpaca, guanaco and vicua. Taxonomy Despite the fact that the term "auquenido" is often used to refer to the family of animals, it is not the correct term. These animals are camelidae. Their taxonomy is as follows: Kingdom: : Animal Subkingdom: : Metazoan Phylum: : Chordate Subphylum: : Vertebrate Class: : Mammal Order: : Artiodactyl Suborder: : Tylopod Family: : Camelidae World and National Distribution During the period of the Conquest, native livestock was replaced by foreign livestock. The number of llamas, alpacas and vicuas dropped during the Colonial period. During the Republican period, the depredation of camelidae was encouraged as a presumed tribute to the church. At present the breeding of camelidae by the inhabitants of the high Andes in our country is their main economic activity. Camelidae are a source of wealth which must be preserved and increased. Llama During the prehispanic period, the llama was the most important camelidae socially and economically. After the arrival of the Spaniards, the llamas were pushed to the high plains where the foreign animals have never been able to adapt. The llama eats dry, hard grass and is a strong and resistant animal. There are different types of llama: The Llama Ch'aku (woolly) which has two layers of different types of wool. The fibre is used for making ropes, sacks and blankets for the inhabitants' own use. The Llama Q'ara (short hair) has very short hair and in some parts has only very short smooth hairs. It is used for carrying loads. Both types of llama are of a variety of colours. Alpaca The alpaca is smaller than the llama and moves in smaller groups, overseen by shepherds. The alpaca eats the dry, coarse grass of the high plateaux. Its wool is well known all over the world. Alpaca Suri. This is a slim, angular animal. The wool is shiny and straight and does not absorb dyes easily. Alpaca Huacaya. This is taller than the Suri and has coarse, curly hair. The Huarizo or Misti This animal has characteristics which are intermediate between the llama and the alpaca. It is larger than the alpaca but its wool is thicker. PROBLEMS OF BREEDING CAMELIDAE IN THE COLCA VALLEY Over the last two decades the political and economic systems applied have not always been appropriate for the alpaca production. Also, due to social violence, the alpaca production was literally abandoned in many cases during the eighties. Towards the end of the decade there was another failed attempt to promote wool trade. During the nineties. Free trade was enforced and this meant the involvement of private enterprises in the trade. The soil and grass are progressively deteriorating. Industry began to demand white wool by weight and this also affected the trade. At present there is a programme for taking into account quality and classification. Due to this there is a move towards genetic improvement and programmes implemented by private and state institutions. CAMELIDAE HABITAT The camelidae tend to live in the south area of the Andean highlands between 3,800 and 4,800 metres above sea level. They thrive on slopes spread with short, coarse grass and gramineae. The temperatures are low, between 15 and 20 centigrade. Food (grass and water) There are two very important nutritional periods: 7-8 months old and the last trimester of pregnancy. These both coincide with the dry season where there is less availability of grass. This results in smaller and weaker animals. The alpacas are very dependent on water and therefore the shepherds must be careful to lead them to abundant water. Llamas are much more resistant to lack of water. For the farmer, the soil, water, grass and animal availability is very important. The farmers work together, sharing pasture land which results in animals passing on diseases easily. Land is divided into sections according to the seasons and availability of water and grass. In the rainy season, the farmer does not gather the animals together so that they do not pass on diseases to each other; they wander free at nights. Andean camelidae adapt marvellously to the altitude due to their ability to bear cold. The females give birth to their young during the rainy season when they have more chances of survival and this characteristic is genetic. Their lungs are formed in such a way that they are able to extract the maximum amount of oxygen possible. The following are general characteristics: Long hair Harelip Three compartments in the stomach Water compartment They do not uproot grass, enabling it to re-grow. Their hooves are made in such a way that they do not harm the soil They do not lick their young when they are born They can be inter-bred Polygamous They spit as a defence They walk great distances Age determination Their age is determined by their teeth, which are only found on the bottom jaw as the top one has no teeth. The animals are born with milk teeth and their teeth change as they grow older. Age can thus be determined by observing how many teeth have changed. Reproduction Camelidae are constantly on heat. Ovulation is induced by copulation and occurs 26 hours after this. Female camelidae reach sexual maturity at the age of two years or when they reach 33 Kgs in weight. Male sexual maturity is usually reached when they are three years old. Llamas and alpacas reproduce all year. However, females and males are constantly together which results in male inhibition and so young are usually born between December and March. Gestation lasts 342-358 days and young are born between 5 and 9 am to provide further chances of survival. Suckling does not affect ovulation. Farmers have a calendar of activities to manage the livestock, including parasite control, shearing and pasture rotation. Shearing Tinkachi or T'inka: This is a ritual and offering to nature, animal reproduction, the springs and streams and in request for protection. The offering is made in February and August. The offering is a llama, the blood of which is drunk by the family. Finally the animal is boiled and served to all attending. The bones are burned. PRODUCTION, TRANSFORMATION AND COMMERCIALIZATION Llamas are used mainly for meat and for carrying loads. Its wool is mainly used for the inhabitants' own consumption or for ropes and sacks but not for commerce. The alpaca wool used to be very popular but prices have dropped and lately alpaca meat has also been commercialized. The first to export alpaca wool were the British from Arequipa. Peruvian alpaca wool reached 80% of the world production during the eighties. It was used for jumpers, blankets and other articles. The fact that the industry demanded quantities of wool without taking into account quality control, has meant that quality has dropped. Designers are taking less interest in the product. However, articles of clothing are made with the wool, in the area, for the inhabitants' use as well as the tourist trade. Meat For many farmers, alpaca breeding has meant their only source of income as the high altitudes do not permit crop growing. Alpaca meat, wool and skins constitute a source of income for the farmer. Llamas tend to be used more for their meat. Alpaca meat has a higher protein percentage and less fat than the llama meat, although the percentages in both vary with age. Llama and alpaca meat consumption is often rejected as the meat is considered to be only for indians to eat or it can be confused with vicua meat which is an animal in danger of extinction. However, alpaca meat is healthier than other meats as well as having a pleasant flavour. It contains more protein and less fat and contains magnesium, sodium and potassium. It is low in cholesterol. The smell of the meat when it is cooked is strong. Hides It is not yet very commercial but after being treated can be used for clothing and other articles, especially the hide of the young. The alpaca hide is often wasted when the animal is killed. COCHINEAL AND AYRAMPO These are two natural colouring dyes which have been used since pre-Columbian times by natives for dyeing weaving. They also possess some medicinal properties. Cochineal is a parasitic insect which lives on a cactus, or prickly pear plant and contains a colouring substance, maroon red carmic acid. The Spanish conquerors found it in Mexico where the colouring was used by the Aztecs. Hernan Cortes took the prickly pear plant to Spain and it grew particularly in the Canary Islands. At that time only small cottony stains were observed on the prickly pear leaves and the dye was extracted. It was not until 1703 with the invention of the microscope that the Cochineal parasite was discovered. The dye is collected from the leaves of the prickly pear by scraping them so that the insects fall and then by drying them. The female insect is the one which possesses the dye and it contains the greatest concentration of it when it is in the process of egg laying. At present, this dye is in great demand for making cosmetics, drinks and food which require colourings, as it is not carcinogenic. Despite the fact that it exists in a great many locations, Peru is the country with the greatest production and the Colca is one of the most important regions where it can be found. The prickly pear is a nutritious and well liked fruit. It is gathered from the natural places where it grows, particularly by the streams in the canyon. The ayrampo, which is still is not used industrially, is also a dye from the fruit of a small cactus of the same family as the prickly pear, used for textiles and food. It is also used a great deal for its medicinal properties.