When exposed to bright light, the photoresistor's resistance is very low.

It dro
ps to around 3-11K?. This creates a low-resistance path for current to travel. S
o most current goes through the photoresistor when exposed to bright light and t
o ground, bypassing the base of the transistor.
.. Thus, the transistor does not receive enough current to turn on and power on
the lamp (relay). Thus, the lamp is off when there is a lot of light in the surr
oundings.
.. However, when it begins to get dark, the photoresistor's resistance becomes v
ery high. Its resistance goes up to near its rated value of 200K?. This creates
a very high-resistance path. This means that current does not go through the pho
toresistor. Instead current goes through the 50K? resistor and through the base
of the transistor. The transistor receives enough current to power on and turn o
n the lamp connected to its anode terminal.
.. est siguiendo la corriente en stdo contrario (ie de + a -): qd hay luz, photo-
R es baja y la corriente circula atravs suyo y no x el emitter (el - del transist
or), en oscuridad resist alta provoca q corriente circule x el emitter -> collec
tor activando el relay con la intensidad amplificada x la base.
. The BASE is the lead responsible for activating the transistor.
The COLLECTOR is the positive lead.
The EMITTER is the negative lead.
.. The transistor has to receive a voltage at its base and until this happens the
lamp does not light.
..
run R1 as close to the regulator output pin as possible. Contrary to that run th
e common side of R2 as close to the load as possible. Run a large wire between
the regulator output and the load.
..
entre mayor sea la diferencia de voltaje entre la entrada y la salida del regula
dor,ms calor se generar cuando comience a circular corriente. Por ejemplo,el LM317
puede dar como mximo 1,5A pero supongamos que tu carga le demanda 1A. Dices que
el transformador es de 15V,por lo que tu capacitor de 2200 se cargar a 15X1.4142=
20V aprox considerando la cada del puente rectificador. Entonces 20-5.3V=14.7V; (
14.7V)1A=14.7Watts! Una verdadera "planchita",que sin un disipador enorme en pro
porcin,se calentar a punto de destruccin. Si deseabas una fuente fija de 5V sin tan
to calor puedes hacer dos cosas:
-Usar un transformador de menor voltaje y misma corriente,digamos 9V,1.5A
-Usar un regulador de fuente conmutada como el LM2575-5 (si usas hasta 1A), el LM
2576-5 que llega hasta 3A. No se calientan casi nada en comparacin y el disipado
r es casi simblico.
..
lm317: 240 + 1680 = 10v
..
- 200 Ohms for R1 and 1K for R2 which gives:
1.25 X (1+(1000/200))= 1.25 X (1+5) = 1.25X6 = 7.5V
.. The typical application note from the same datasheet gives 120 Ohms for R1 an
d 5K adjustable for R2, in order to get a variable 1.2>25V regulator.
.. You need R1=120 Ohms and R2=1K2 in order to get a 13.75V output, so use a 2K
or 5K adjustable and you're done! (you can probably even leave R1 at 220 Ohms bu
t need to increase R2 to 2K).
.. but I want 6,3v output. :wink: That's why I feel this is odd - without load
it goes there, with load it doesn't even if there's plenty of input voltage.
.. With your original values (255 Ohms and 1k) you can barely get 6V according t
o the equation... So, works exactly as expected.
.. Which I soon changed to 200ohm + 1k, as told previously.
. I wouldn't make conclusions of unloaded measurements, because the LM338 regula
tor want to see a minimum load...
.. not too small.
. the datasheets advise a 240 Ohms value for R1 with LM138 and 120 Ohms with LM3
38.
-.
Well, I call it case closed.
Adjusting R1 doesn't do anything. It just plain & simply looks like you need a h
uge voltage difference for regulating at these currents.
-.
I did try out adding a 2,2ohm resistor after the input capacitor, resulting in a
bout 3 volts drop if I remember it right. The maximum output was about 4,5vdc.
. When I adjust the output to 5,5v - or whatever, the regulator runs fine.
-.
Problem solved.
.. I got tired in dicking around with this thing, so I went and bought a new reg
ulator and a big, proper heatsink for it, which I mounted on the back panel of t
he unit.
.. Now it works as expected. No ripple at output, voltage adjustable. I also put
a 1ohm/25w resistor to drop the voltage a little. It seems to be a good choice.
.. What went wrong? I assume it was the back panel as the heatsink.
. It does sound as if it was a sick part, since thermal things are rarely so sho
rt-time-constant that merely a bigger heatsink would make an immediate differenc
e.