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Living in a densely populated area antennas are an issue here. Officially I can place one antenna
provided it is situated at the back of my house and not higher than 5 meters above the point where
the antenna or mast meets the roof line.
The challenge: how to get good results on multiple HF bands from the home QTH with an antenna
that is not too much in your face. Following the official rules I could still install an enormous beam
(provided the width fits my 9m wide lot). However this would create problems with the XYL,
neighbours and probably the official body that has a say on the aesthetics of any change you make
at or around your house.
In 2010 I worked mainly using a Ventenna dipole in my attic (inside the house) - not a real DX killer.
In 2011 I started using an end fed half wave wire that I set up sloping from my attic window into the
garden. This worked a bit better but I need to change the wires for different bands and I keep on
getting better results when I work portable with the same end fed wire vertically on a fibreglass
mast.
Reading a lot of enthusiastic stories on the Cobwebb antenna (originally by Stephen Webb, hence
the weBB) and considering its dimensions I thought it would make a good compromise for my
situation.
There are two main configurations for the Cobbwebb: the original T-match version as developed by
G3TPW and the 1:4 balun version as developed by G3TXQ.
Comparing the two versions it appeared to me that the G3TXQ version was easier to build and tune
with no apparent disadvantages.
A few good sources I used:
Mr Stephen (Cob)Webb
Detailed PDF describing the Cobwebb version by G3TPW
G0MTD's experiences building two CobWebbs
The 4:1 balun version by G3TXQ
Good step by step description by NH7RO of the 4:1 balun version
Parts
After soaking in all the information I set out to get components that would make the antenna less
visible, sturdy enough to keep the antenna in one piece in windy conditions and that would allow
me to use the antenna as a portable antenna if I would choose to do so.
The following are my main building blocks (click on the pics for a larger version):
1. Support poles
2. Antenna wire
3. Center plate
FT-240 toroids,
RG-316 coax,
SO-239
5. U-bolts
6. Steel angle
7. Balun box
8. Balun parts
1. Support poles - looking at the various fishing poles used by people building this antenna I
was not too enthusiastic. The fibreglass tubes used in fishing poles are rather thin. This
means you have to either choose a large diameter or accept drooping poles. It turned out
however there is a fibreglass producer in the Netherlands that sells tubes through a
webshop. I visited them to find the best diameter versus stiffness. It turned out to be a
16mm diameter tube with 2mm thick walls. I bought 4 x 2m + 1x 1m of the stuff.
2. Wire - I chose to get me very thin yet very strong wire from DX-Wire in Germany. Aiming at
low visibilty yet flexible wire (for portable use) I selected the UL version of their wire that
has an outer diameter of 1,5mm. I was already familiar with DX-Wire through my various
end fed wire antennas.
3. Center plate - after looking for some sort of plate - preferably aluminium - I came across
the plate shown in the picture. It is a very thin metal plate called a "nailing sheet" over
here. The way I was planning to connect the support poles the thickness of the plate is not
very relevant. The advantage of this plate is that it holds a lot of holes that can be used to
affix parts and that it is very light (good property for a portable antenna).
4. Fixture for the support poles - I found a 50cm (20") metal axis with an inner diameter of
16mm. This suited me nicely as the fibreglass poles were just under 16mm outer diameter.
The idea was to fix the metal tubes on the center plate and insert the fibreglass poles into
the metal tubes.
5. U-bolts for the metal tubes - not having any u-bolts of a convenient size handy I decided to
take a length of M5 (metric) wire and cut and bend that to form U-shapes
6. Steel angle - to be able to attach the center plate to a mast I included this piece of metal.
My idea is to use the vertical strip for holding a u-bolt. For a more sturdy (permanent) setup
I can extend the strip adding a plate the same width (that allows for more u-bolts) or adding
a strip that is wider (that allows larger u-bolts).
7. Junction box - the antenna needs a 1:4 (12.5 : 50) balun. The picture shows the box already
prepared for the balun. You will find more info on how to construct it below - after the
center plate construction info. I chose a junction box of 110mm x 110m x 60mm (4.3" x 4.3"
x 2.4"). If you are looking at different sizes of boxes: the minimum I would recommend is
110mm x 100mm x 50mm. Note that I am constructing a QRO balun and therefore use large
toroids.
8. Balun parts - for the QRO balun you additionally need: an SO-239 chassis connector, two
toroids (FT-240) and 2.5m (8') of RG-316 coax.
..and a hand full of washers, nuts, bolts and tie wraps.
1. I cut the metal axis in three pieces: 2 x 20cm (to hold 2 support poles each) and 1 x 10cm
(to hold the support pole for the balun).
2. I started adding my home made u-bolts through the right holes in the nailing sheet. I had to
enlarge the holes slightly (from 4 to 5 mm).
3. I added the metal angle that would go under one of the metal tubes, using two small bolts
to keep it in the right position.
4. I added the two larger tubes, drilled a hole through the whole stack and put a bolt through
it - this is not really necessary to keep the tubes in place (the u-bolts will do that) but the
center bolt marks the end of the insert for each of the four main fibreglass poles.
5. I added the fifth metal tube. To attach that one I used one u-bolt and one bolt through the
end of the tube. I chose this configuration as there was not enough room for two u-bolts
8. tube clamps
1. Cut four pieces of RG-316 of 540mm (21.25") each and strip the ends
2. Lay two pieces along side each other (use heat shrink tubing or tape to keep the two pieces
together) and connect the ends braid to braid and center to center
3. Wind the double RG-316 with 7 turns onto one of the toroids, creating a choke
4. Repeat step 2 and 3 for the remaining two pieces of RG-316 and the remaining toroid
5. Stack the two newly created chokes in such a way that the coax ends of both chokes are
aligned and bind the chokes together (using tie wraps)
6. Connect the coax ends in two different ways:
1. On one end connect the two combined coaxes (or 4 coax ends) braid to braid and
center to center. This end will be used to connect to the antenna wires ("the
antenna end").
2. On the other end connect the braids of one choke to the center of the other choke.
The two remaining "free" ends (center and braid) will be used to connect to the SO239 connector ("the feedline end").
7. Add two short pieces of wire (of equal length) to the antenna end of the balun - so you will
be able to bring these connections to the side of the balun box.
8. Prepare the balun box: add the SO-239 connector, two bolts to opposite sides that will hold
the antenna wires and any clamp to the bottom of the box that allows you to attach the
balun to the fibreglass tube later on (refer to picture 8 for a suggestion).
9. Solder the feed line end of the balun to the SO-239 connector
10. Attach the two wires of the antenna end of the balun to the bolts in the sides of the balun
box (I used cable shoes)
This concludes the balun construction. I found connecting the tinned center braids the most
challenging part as they tend to break off easily.
Band
Wire length
Wire length
(metric)
Centre-to-corner
length
Centre-to-corner
(metric)
20m
201"
510,5cm
72.25"
183,5cm
17m
157.5"
400cm
56.75"
144cm
15
135"
343cm
48.25"
122,5cm
12m
114"
289,5cm
40.25"
102cm
10m
100.5"
255,5cm
34.75"
88,5cm
Note that you use 2 wires for each band - the numbers represent one leg of the folded dipole. I
added a few centimetres when cutting the wires making sure both dipole ends were exactly the
same length. It is always easier to tune upwards cutting the wire than it is to tune downwards
(never found an easy way to lengthen a wire ;-)
With 10 wires of the right length you can start affixing them to the fibreglass cross, one tube after
one tube, one wire after the other (starting at the 10m wire and working outwards kinda makes
sense). I used the centre-to-corner lengths specified above and marked them on the fibreglass
tubes. That way I knew where to (approx.) wrap the tie-wrap around the wire and tube.
I then added cable shoes to each of the wires at the balun to make for a neat connection of all the
wires to the balun:
The other end of the wires are the ends of the folded dipoles. They need to stay some space apart.
The length of the wires and (therefore) the amount of space in between will change during the
tuning process. To keep the ends at an adjustable distance I tried several things but finally went for
electrical strip connectors (single pieces) and tie wraps.
For every end of wire I folded over a piece of the wire, slid the connector over it and screwed it
tight. That way I created small wire loops on all wire ends that could be connected using long tie
wraps. By folding over too much wire at the beginning of the tuning process I knew the wire ends
would only get closer to each other during the tuning. That is what you want if a tie wrap is keeping
the ends together (as a tie wrap is easily tightened but not so easily loosened).
After the tuning I removed the electrical strip connectors and replaced them by heat shrink tube
and a small tie wrap, like so:
Whatever you select as the material to keep the wire ends apart be careful that the material does
not soak up water and influence the SWR of the antenna.
From 10m I went outwards to all the other dipoles. I did not find a noticeable change in the
resonance of the dipoles I already tuned when tuning the other dipoles.