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No Topic Pg No
1 Introduction
2 The origins
3 Bohe-mania takes over
4 the Bohemian fashion bible
5 The Fashion Elements of Bohemian ulture
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Introduction
Bohemian (b him n )
noun - a socially unconventional person, especially one who is involved
in the arts.
Bohemian is a kind of lifestyle followed. What started as a
counterculture , has in recent times become a raging fashion culture.
From being shunned to now being embraced by the holy triage of luxury
- D&G , Burberry & Gucci , it walks the fne line between Haut`e couture
& comfort.
This report is an attempt to understand and follow the evolution of a Sub
culture through the ages. As Fashion is ever changing & evolving , this
culture has evolved from being a lifestyle to fashion sub culture starting
from the French revolution to the Cloud age.
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The origins
The Bohemians, as a counterculture, appeared in France after the
French Revolution. Deprived of the former system of patronage, where
wealthy clients supported the arts, artists were plunged into poverty.
Many took up a nomadic life style, lived cheaply, and wore worn out and
unfashionable or used clothing.
Formerly, an artist was seen as a skilled and talented crafts person. But
the Romantic Movement of the late 18th century rejected the confnes of
bourgeois life and the former importance placed on reason, to embrace
the imagination.
A new cult of personality emerged with the artist as hero and individual
style expressed in the way one dressed.
An artist became a special type of person, not merely a crafts person,
but a kind of eccentric genius whose creativity was displayed in the way
they lived and looked. The artist himself (or herself) was a piece of art.
People compared the new artistic types to wandering Gypsies and
believed that Gypsies originated in Bohemia, an area of Eastern Europe
and the Balkans. So, they came to refer to artists and intellectuals as
Bohemians. (Gypsy was a European term for the Romany people, an
ethnic group with Indian origins who had migrated north. The word
Gypsy, derived from the word Egyptian, which many thought the actual
home of the nomadic people who were often social outcasts that lived
outside the mainstream.)
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Bohe-mania takes over
1830s
By the 1830's, the French Bohemian art crowd and the Romantics
embraced medieval and oriental clothing styles. With their colorful
fabrics, long fowing hair, and wide brimmed hats, the artistic culture did
come to resemble Gypsies.
The novelist Henri Murger wrote tales about the people that he called
bohemians, centering on a group of artists and intellectuals in
threadbare coats, old shoes, and a general look of dishevelment. The
stories inspired Puccinni's famous opera, La Boheme.
19th Century - The Aesthetic Movement
In the 19th century, the Aesthetic Movement became a type of bohemian
life style. The Aesthetics rebelled against the rigid social constraints of
the Victorian era and embraced a style based on the clothing of the past,
particularly medieval dress and oriental designs.
Beliving that the mass production of the Industrial Revolution was
dehumanizing, the Aesthetics strove to encourage the old techniques of
the Middle Ages with individually crafted goods. Clothing was loose and
soft, using fabrics colored with organic dyes and decorated with hand
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embroidery. The Pre-Raphaelite artists of the day rejected corsets,
crinolines, and the stif bodices and restrictive clothing of Victorian
fashion.
The Hippie Movement of the late 1960's incorporated bohemian ideals.
Centered on creativity of life and dress, hippie style included elements of
historic costume, ethnic dress, and a rejection of mainstream life. To the
right, in a clip from the Monterey Pop Festival of 1967, Country Joe and
the Fish perform to a crowd dressed in classic hippie style.
20th century
Greenwich Village, New York or The Village was a gathering place for
impoverished artists and writers in the 20th century, a haven for the
creative communtiy as a distinctive minority group.
The Left Bank In the early 20th century, the Montparnasse area of
Paris France was a hub of creativity that attracted artists, writers, and
intellectuals. Here, people like Marc Chagall, Ernest Hemingway, Henri
Matisse, and others were able to live cheaply, meeting in bistros and
restaurants to share ideas.
Paul Poiret - The early 20th century fashion designer reworked a variety
of ethnic designs for Western fashion. His use of elements of Russian
peasant costume, Middle Eastern, oriental, and historic dress introduced
bohemian concepts int high fashion that eventually bled into mainstream
fashion.
William and Jane Morris - William Morris was a designer who created
alternative textiles for clothing and interior design, known for his
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involevment in liberal socialism, historic preservation and known as an
early environmentalist. He also designed clothes for his wife, Jane
Morris, a model who became an icon of the Aesthetic and Arts and
Crafts movements in her loose, medieval style dresses and abundant
long hair.
Dorelia McNeill was a model for the artists Gwen and Augustus John in
the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Augustus and Dorelia lived a
gypsy life in a caravan while he painted her in long, loose skirts and
scarves as they lived in a personal bohemian utopia.
Basically unchanged for many years, bohemian style came to be
associated with young people hoping to distance themselves from the
materialistic culture of past generations. Bohemian style gave birth to
more modern counter culture styles. Beatniks, with their black turtle
necks and striped shirts took on a more austere tone of dress. Hippie
style introduced a note of childhood into the mix by incorporating cowboy
and Indian styles as well as short, girlish skirts.
Modern bohemian
Boho-chic is a style of female fashion drawing on various bohemian and
hippie infuences, that, at its height in 2004-5, was associated
particularly with actress Sienna Miller and model Kate Moss in the
United Kingdom and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen and Nicole Richie in
the United States. This trend, which had been going on since late 2000,
appeared to be on the wane by early 2009, but some elements were
evident again in 2010.
The boho look, which owed much to the hippie styles that developed in
the middle to late 1960s, became especially popular after Sienna Miller's
appearance at the Glastonbury Festival in 2004,[5] although some of its
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features were apparent from photographs of her taken in October
2003[6] and of others living in or around the postal district of W10 (North
Kensington), an area of London associated with bohemian culture since
the mid-1950s.
By the spring of 2005, boho was almost ubiquitous in parts of London
and was invading stores in almost every British high street.[7] Its
adherents were sometimes referred to as "Siennas".[8], this eponym
even being applied to Miller herself: "Sienna's Sienna- ishness", as
Jessica Brinton put it in the Sunday Times in 2007 [9]. Features included
"foaty" skirts (notably long white ones), furry gilets, embroidered tunics,
cropped jackets, large faux-coin belts, sheepskin ("Ugg") boots and
cowboy boots, baggy cardigans and "hobo bags". Demand was so great
that there were allegations the following year of some sub-contractors'
having used cheap child labour in India for zari embroidery and beading.
[10]
Footless tights or "leggings", of which Miller was a proponent, were a
contributory factor in the halving of sales of stockings in Britain between
2003 and 2007.
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the Bohemian Fashion Bible
Bohemian style evolved into a cult of the individual, a person whose very
appearance became a work of art with carefully planned outfts and
accessories. The word bohemian suggested a sense of arcane
enlightenment, sexual freedom, and poor personal hygiene.
Bohemian life rejects materialism, private property, and centers on
creativity and communal living. Often associated with the use of drugs
and alcohol, bohemians ignore social convention, centering their lives on
art.
A general disregard for tidiness and uniformity of dress
A look of contrived dishevelment
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Fashion Elements of Bohemian Style
Bohemian style, now referred to as boho chic, has come down through
history, reappearing as beatnik style and in the hippie culture of the
1960's. For 200 years, bohemian style has consisted of several fashion
elements.
Loose, fowing clothing made of natural fabrics
Less restrictive garments worn without corsets, bras or other restrictive
elements
Loose, fowing hair
Colorful scarves ,Peasant style clothing including tunics, loose trousers,
boots, and sandals
Oriental elements including robes, kimonos, an the ethnic designs of
Persia, India, Turkey, and China
Mixing historical elements of medieval clothing with ethnic styles
Layering
Matching of garments in a nontraditional manner, such as mixing prints,
or unusual color combinations
Multi strands of beads, several bangle bracelets, and the wearing of
unusual, hand crafted, or unmatched jewelry
Large dangle or large hoop earrings ,Broad brimmed hats
Key Pieces: Knits & Outerwear
Think of Dylan Thomas chunky roll necks and woollen jumpers for that
casual, lounging around the home look. Consider materials here; wool,
cashmere, silk or on trend alpaca or mohair. Look for cosy, non-synthetic
fabrics and keep the patterns relatively toned down to maintain an
elegant feel without looking like youre trying too hard.
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A classic white shirt under an oversized jumper will always be a winning
combination, and a blazer layered over the top would keep the look
refned, whereas a denim or leather jacket will provide a harder, more
youthful edge.
For those winter nights, think about fnishing with a dark trench or
peacoat both would complement the fnely crafted layers you have
underneath.
Make sure you think about layers when compiling an outft and how the
colours of each piece work together as a whole. Whether each piece is a
slightly diferent shade/texture or you go along the colour blocking route,
just remember that to maintain this bohemian aesthetic you need to stay
away from anything too bright or neon and look for tones that
complement the garments natural materials.
Key Pieces: Trousers
The trouser department should hark back to classic materials and
designs, being simple yet efective. A pair of slim ftted trousers/chinos in
a dark colour are one of the most fexible items of clothing you can own,
going well with most items.
However, for this modern take on the bohemian look, an on trend pair of
olive or burnt orange corduroys will inject life into your outft via both
colour and texture.
In addition, a pair of this seasons must have style the grey woollen
trouser will really complement this rugged look. If you want to switch it
up, a pair of white or indigo jeans will provide either a touch of Italian
elegance or British grit to the outft.
Finishing Touches
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Shoes make the man. Throwing on a pair of tatty trainers or Converse
will jar with this classic, well-made look. If youre going to go tatty, wear
some scufed Chelsea boots for a rock n roll feel or washed leather
brogues to emphasise your take on dishevelled elegance.
When it comes to other accessories, let your creativity and personality
shine through. Look at the Kooples campaigns to see how jewellery can
really add something extra to this particular style. A masculine ring or a
simple necklace can elevate your outft to the next level and shouldnt be
dismissed.
If your outft needs a tie, make it a woollen one. Hats should either be
classic (a felt fedora for instance) or modern and edgy (such as a rolled
or ftted beanie), in premium fabrics and a muted colour. Although this
really is where your imagination and personality shines through, so go
with whatever you think complements the look as a whole.
Finally, perhaps one of the most iconic pieces within a bohemian
inspired look would be a scarf or neckerchief. Lightweight silk versions
are the most authentic, and statement patterns/colours are fair game
they will inject a sense of fair into your look, and when combined with
more muted pieces, it allows them to pop.
Either drape louchely round your neck a couple of times or tie them
short and tight like a true neckerchief. [For more ways to tie your scarf,
check out our guide here.
Bohemian Icons
The Rainbow Gathering is an annual meeting of like minded
individuals with a bohemian bent that reject capitalism and materialism
and embrace utopian ideals, the creative life, environmentalism, and
diversity.
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La Boheme and the Musical Rent - The musical Rent is based on
Puccini's opera La Boheme. The story revolves around a group of artists
living the bohemian life and their struggles with poverty and disease.
Sherlock Holmes - Arthur Conan Doyle's frst short story featuring
Sherlock Holmes included Doctor Watson's description of the famous
fctional detective's 'bohemian soul.
The Bohemian Icons
The collection of images below showcases some of the more well known
characters that are said to have lead a bohemian lifestyle Dylan
Thomas, Oscar Wilde and Bob Dylan along with a photograph of 1920s
bohemians by August Sander:
Bohemian Icons - Dylan Thomas, Oscar Wilde, Bob Dylan & 1920s
bohemians by August Sander
Their look is one that shows respect, whilst also being quite loose,
unconstrained and individual. Although Dylans look from the 1960s is
probably more relevant to us today, Wildes strong look has individual
items that are very much making a resurgence.
Fur overcoats, mens rings and other jewellery, velvet jackets, these are
all key trend items for this autumn/winter and when combined in a subtle
manner, can look extremely modern and stylish.
On The Catwalk
The catwalk images below were taken from Burberry, Acne and Lanvin
AW12 fashion weeks and demonstrate the kind of aesthetic you can
achieve with bohemian inspired pieces. Overall, its a very romantic look
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that includes a lot of layering, oversizing and autumnal materials and
colours all concepts that are seasonally appropriate.
The modern take on this bohemian look includes some rock n roll
stalwarts, like the leather or denim jacket, giving the look a much more
masculine and contemporary edge.
Bohemian Inspired Outfts on the Men's Catwalks - Burberry, Acne and
Lanvin

It usually starts in April in the northern hemisphere. Women who are
normally sleek and minimal in the colder months suddenly fnd
themselves foating into the ofce in a Matthew Williamson kaftan, a
tassel here, a rufe there, their hair a little looser Something about the
mercury rising has us ficking through our mental Roladexes and fnding
Woodstock 1969 fled under Summer only this season the bohemian
look we all know and love has gone luxe. Now its about Bianca
Brandolini DAdda the face of Dolce & Gabbana on the front row, all
bronzed limbs, artfully dishevelled waist-length hair and studded
Valentino sandals. It's Greek shipping heiress Eugenie Niarchos in a
Givenchy thorned headpiece. Its French model, singer and actress Lou
Doillon of-duty in a Vanessa Bruno playsuit and fedora. Its Isabel
Marants SS13 collection. If youre looking for a masterclass in summer
style, these are the ladies to learn from
Youll remember the last time that boho became a serious fashion player,
of course. It was back in 2005 when the actress Sienna Miller could
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cause a stampede every time she stepped out in a sundress and a pair
of Vivienne Westwoods pirate boots. But, like Miller herself, the new
bohemian has grown up and adopted a much more refned look.
Oferings such as Balenciagas Ottoman print silk top, Collette
Dinnigans broderies and guipure lace, Dolce & Gabbanas rafa totes
and Talithas exquisite Kantha jacket are all beautiful, artful pieces that
hint at an international jet-set life and far-fung holidays.
There is, of course, a degree of irony that a style founded on the
alternative and frugal existences of 19th-century artists has caught a cab
uptown and had a mani-pedi and a fantastic blow-dry. But no matter. No
one can argue that the women doing it best don't look absolutely
sensational. The new bohemians come, in fact, from a long line of
glamorous women. Dutch actress and style icon Talitha Getty was the
epitome of the 1970s bohemian and Patrick Lichfelds picture of her
wearing a kaftan on a rooftop in Marrakech is a boho mood-board
fxture. From actress Ali MacGraw's bare-faced beauty in the 1970 flm
Love Story to Stevie Nicks on stage with Fleetwood Mac, resplendent in
an embellished maxi dress they all worked the look of carefree
insouciance and fun, but they did it with style. So how do you wear the
new boho look? The
trick is all in the proportions. While before it was all about billowing
fabrics, now its far more streamlined.
Pair Isabel Marants embroidered chifon tunic with a
sleek pair of love-worn Frame Denim skinny jeans to keep
the look modern by day. For evening, Saint Laurents black
Le Smoking full-length gown is the ultimate choice. You
see, its boho, but not as we knew it
Bohemian Rhapsody
I recently went to the opera to see La Bohme by Puccini. Set in Paris
famous Latin Quarter in the 1830s, La Bohme opens in the dilapidated
room of four bohemians. Artists, writers, painters and musicians, they
have to pawn their belongings to pay the rent and burn old writings to
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keep warm. It was an excellent piece and had a bit of everything youd
expect from an opera: romance, death and great music.
However, something that stuck out above all of this was the clothing of
the four bohemians. They struck a fne line between formal wear and
casual wear, between groomed and rugged its what Christopher
Bailey masterfully calls dishevelled elegance, and it describes the look
to a tee.
This is a look that has been in vogue for some time now. The go to for
the skinny guy who would throw a smart blazer over an oversized shirt,
skinny trousers and a pair of battered Chelsea boots as he quickly
rufes his hair whilst listening to Laura Marling or Dylan.
Its also a look that has been on the catwalk in diferent guises for years,
with brands like Baileys Burberry, Acne, Lanvin, the Kooples and E
Tautz having prominently displayed the aesthetic throughout most of
their recent collections, although with a varying style.
Get The Look: Modern Bohemian
Leading By Example: The Kooples
The Kooples are one brand who continually manage to nail
contemporary, bohemian inspired looks whether it be through their
slick advertising campaigns or superb lookbooks.
Below you will fnd a few recent outfts created by Parisian brand, all of
which are the epitome of the aesthetic we are looking to achieve today:
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Conclusion
The bohemian look is certainly experiencing a strong resurgence. Not
just on the catwalks of the fnest fashion houses, but also on the streets
of Londons Brick Lane, Berlins Kreuzberg and Paris Latin Quarter.
Even if the overall aesthetic is not something youd like to achieve, the
bohemian look is full of key trend pieces that are suitable for AW12 and
many seasons to come.
Items like chunky roll necks, woollen trousers, a navy peacoat and a
good pair of Chelsea boots are fexible enough to ft into your existing
wardrobe efortlessly easily being dressed up or down, allowing you to
develop your own take on dishevelled elegance.
But as mass media embraced bohemianism, one wonders if the term is
still viable. When a counter culture goes mainstream, the style can no
longer be viewed as alternative.
When discount stores sell peasant skirts, and fashion magazines ofer
expensive designer made bohemian style garments, the nature of the
bohemian life has become a cultural norm, and no longer unique and
specifc to a particular group.
Though fashion often embraces boho chic, the life itself - the yearning
for individual freedom, the rejection of modern materialistic concepts, the
dream of utopian ideals, and production of hand crafted goods remains
a powerful alternative to mainstream culture.
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http://www.wisegeek.org/what-is-a-bohemian.htm
http://hubpages.com/hub/BohoTheFashionHistoryofBohemianClothes
http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2014/05/30/a-new-line-luxe-
bohemian-wear-talitha/?_php=true&_type=blogs&_r=0
http://www.fashionbeans.com/2012/the-look-bohemian/
http://www.missmalini.com/2012/07/27/10-spanish-clothing-brands-
you-should-know-about/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7f5Cior7p8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dL9JVxq6x2M
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Prorsum-autumnwinter-2014-collection-at-London-Fashion-Week.html
http://www.matchesfashion.com/womens/the-style-report/bohemian-
icon
http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/fashion-articles/21-reasons-
you-have-bohemian-style
http://www.pinterest.com/ecoartopia/bohemian-style-icons/
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http://www.diferencebetween.net/miscellaneous/fashion-
beauty/diferences-between-bohemian-and-hippie/
https://www.mtholyoke.edu/courses/rschwart/hist255-
s01/boheme/evolution.html
http://fashionsx.org/bohemian-fashion-men.html

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