Level 6-

Critical
research
project
Preliminary report -
Dissertation Task 1
Sheridan Jade Clarkson
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Sustainable Jewellery and crafts

Dictionary definition of the word sustainable

As a self-confessed lover of mixed media jewellery, the concept of using sustainable and
recycled items in my jewellery work is even more appealing to me because of the wide
spectrum of non-precious materials that can be used. The possibilities are endless when it
comes to using these materials. The materials being easily source such as plastics, glass and
cardboard makes the trial and error process when designing and making more flexible due
to the fact that the materials are of no value. This notion puts the well-known quote and
idiom one mans trash is another mans treasure into perspective.
In this research I am going to look at the plus points of sustainable jewellery but I am also
going to scrutinise some others. I will be looking into what is a good idea and what isnt very
functional for day to day wear ect. Where the designers could improve and why their work
is a good representation of sustainability.
I am going to research my work using several different places. Mostly books such as
sustainable jewellery which includes many different sustainable jewellery artists that use
a wide spectrum of materials, from old sweet wrappers to actual frozen water in specific
shapes. I will also be using news articles from reliable sources and internet sources that are
direct links to the designers themselves.
When focusing on recent issues in the media, such as global warming, waste disposal and
landfills and the dramatic impact that it is having on the environment. Recycling objects has
become a main focus to some designers (Manheim, J. (2009). Sustainable Jewellery. London:
A&C Black publishers limited.) For example, jewellery designers like Emma Ware that
creates neck pieces from salvaged metal and leather, Verena Sieber-Fuchs uses materials
such as egg boxes, burnt photography film and chocolate wrappers to create dramatic
catwalk style piece and Mormol Radziner who creates metal cuffs made from salvaged
pieces of metal found in old and demolished buildings. Re-using old materials and
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transforming them into new and appealing pieces of art and jewellery can be tricky at times
but when it is done properly, the pieces have more of a value to them than the brand new
quota on the market.

A make do and mend concept has been taken on with the crafts industry. Designers are
Sourcing cheaper materials by using found objects, disposable items often used as
commodities and unrecyclable items and objects. Material we take for granted can and are
used for jewellery making. Designer and jeweller Naomi Filmer uses water to create ice
pieces. These can only be used for a limited amount of time because obviously the ice will
melt from its solid form and return to its natural liquid state. This design is rather appealing
because the water can be frozen again in the moulds but it will always be slightly different
due to the natural patterns created by how the water molecules freeze in random
formations. (Manheim, J. (2009). Sustainable Jewellery. London: A&C Black publishers
limited.)

Combining materials together and making mixed media jewellery has become a common
thing in recent craft media. Interoperating random objects with possibly new or even
more found objects to create a piece of art, jewellery or sculptures is a fine art. Designers
are re using materials such as old aluminium coke cans and even old body parts from Barbie
dolls. Designer Margaux Lange creates wonderful pieces of jewellery from random body
parts of Barbie dolls. Hands that create a focal point to the neck and chest and statement,
heart shaped pendants that have Barbies breasts set in them and Barbies hands on
earrings with her own jewellery displayed on her wrists and fingers. Her pieces of Barbie doll
art are combined with sterling silver and pigment silver. (Lange, M. (n.d.). About: Margaux
Lange. [online] Available at: http://www.margauxlange.com/ [Accessed 13
th
April, 2014])

Found objects are commonly interpreted in to jewellery and sculpture. Mark Oliver created
a series of sculptures that look like a collection of taxidermied insect made entirely from
found objects. The collection is called The litter bug; these sculptures are named after the
object in which they are made from. For example leather back beetle is created from a
leather bound book, Passion fly is made from pieces of bible papers and a Jesus on a
crucifix as a central focal point and muscle bug is made from anatomically correct pieces of
paper in a symmetrical formation with cut up spectacle pieces that create the antennas for
the bug. (Oliver, M. (n.d.). The litter bug by Mark Oliver. Retrieved 2013, from The litter bug:
http://cargocollective.com/TheLitterBug/The-Litter-bug)
The more you look at his art, the more you realise what is used. Keith Lo Bue makes
sculptures and jewellery from found objects. Similar to Mark Olivers work. The harder you
look the more you realise what it is made from. He usually casts his found objects in a resin,
often amber coloured to make the piece look aged and slightly haggard. His metal is a
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combination of new and scraps pieces but he always tarnishes the metal to look older and
to fit with the final outcome. (Bue, K. L. (2011). Stuffsmith: Volume One. Keith Lo Bue: Self
publication)

Recycling is possibly the most unrestrained creative art. Mostly using objects that are easy
to come by are in good condition but often still thrown away in mass amounts. Cardboard
boxes being underrated and only being used for transportation of goods. Chris Gilmour took
this opportunity and took advantage and created wonderful and highly detailed sculptures.
Creating things such as a huge statue style sculpture of St George slaying a dragon, statues
of Queen Victoria and random things like scooters and wheelchairs. These pieces made it to
local newspapers such as the Metro. Materials such as wine bottle corks have been made
into comfortable, modern chairs, light shades and decorate vases. (Haywood, J. (2009).
Design & make: Mixed-media jewellery.
Bloomsbury Publishing Plc.)



















Margaux Lange, Ploom brooch, sterling
silver, Barbie face and resin.
(Lange, M. (n.d.). About: Margaux Lange.
[online] Available at:
http://www.margauxlange.com/ [Accessed
13
th
April, 2014]



Mark Oliver, prophet moth, made from a
bible and clock pieces.
Oliver, M. (n.d.). About: The litter bug.
[online] Available at:
http://cargocollective.com/TheLitterBug/The
-Litter-bug [Accessed 13th April, 2014]


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Using old materials and transforming them into something new is not a new thing. Back in
world war two, materials such as clothes and food being rationed. Having an ongoing war
meant that basic things such as stocking and corn flakes. Leaflets on how to transform old
things into new such as how to make coats out of blankets, how to stain your legs with gravy
and draw a line on them to look like youre wearing stockings and how to make baby clothes
from old pillow cases. Materials such as pots, pans and iron railing were used to make
planes, missiles and bullets. If something like a leg on the bed broke, you had to fix it. If
clothing got a hole in it you would mend it by sewing and if you didnt have a woollen
jumper, you would knit it from using an old knitted blanket. The rationing started in 1941
and finished in 1949. For eight years the British became self-sustainable. Not relying on
things brought from other countries. This shows that the UK can survive by using old
material rather than wasting mass amounts of energy to make more. (BBC. (n.d.). About:
World war 2: The War Effort. What was make do and mend? [online] Available at:
Keith Lo Bue, Piece name unknown.
Bue, K. L. (2011). Stuffsmith: Volume One.
Keith Lo Bue: Self-publication

Chris Gilmour, St George and the dragon.
(Metro. (2009). About: Artists amazing
cardboard sculptures. [online] Available
at:
http://metro.co.uk/2009/11/27/chris-
gilmours-amazing-cardboard-sculptures-
613086/ [Accessed: 29th April, 2014])

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http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/primaryhistory/world_war2/the war_effort/ [Accessed: 19
th

April, 2014])
The public have become more fashion conscious. Making sure that they know exactly how things are
made and where the materials used in the items are coming from. Products in shops are displaying
that they are from certain countries and that the products are fair trade. With several scandals
revealed in the news, where large companies such as Primark have been accused of producing
clothing in mass quantities but using sweat shops to make sure the products can stay low. This
means the workers are being paid little or pretty much nothing. The wages that they earn are
sometimes just to keep a roof over their heads. This roof is usually a back room in the sweat shop
itself. This means the workers are living in poor conditions, no beds, little food and to coin the
phrase living to work or working to live. Metro. (2013). About: The price of cheap clothes: 100 die as
sweatshop factories collapse. [online] Available at: http://metro.co.uk/2013/04/24/the-price-of-
cheap-clothes-100-die-as-sweatshop-factories-collapse-3665811/ [Accessed: 27
th
April, 2014]
These issues are also relating to the jewellery industry. Most eco jewellery designers are
sourcing metals and other materials such as diamonds from clean sources. This means
making sure that no materials that are used are from poor conditioned work places. People
and even children are forced into collecting materials from unsafe and dangerous places.
This results in many deaths and unclean materials. ( Lee, M. (2009). About: Can silver ever be
ethical?. [online] Available at:
http://www.theecologist.org/green_green_living/clothing/270580/can_silver_ever_be_ethi
cal.html
[Accessed 29
th
April, 2014])
(Cred Jewellery. (n.d.). About: Fairtrade Silver. [online] Available at:
http://www.credjewellery.com/about-fairtrade/fairtrade-silver.html [Accessed: 29
th
April,
2014])

Researching into jewellers that make items made from found objects has inspired me to add
more mixed materials and see the potential in less desirable objects. As a metalworker,
mixing alloys can be a scary process but if done properly and joining them together in an
alternative manner, can be pulled off. The processes have to be thought out a little more
than joining precious metals together but his thought process can be beneficial to future
work.





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The three Rs
Designers, especially jewellery designers that use sustainable resources always refer back to
the three Rs. These are -
Reduce
Make something that is less desirable and disposed of more often, something of
beauty, the task of making the material less or a smaller amount to reduce the mass
production of more materials and waste of energy. Reducing the materials thrown
away can also be good for the materials which are considered to be raw materials.
The process of reusing will help to keep using something we might not get in the
future.

Reuse
The action of using something over and over and never disposing of it. Whether its
in its found state or transformed into something else. Energy and resources are
wasted and dumped in a landfill. Reusing materials cuts down on materials which
can easily be put to good use, saving on energy and bad emissions released into the
environment.

Recycle
There are over one thousand five hundred landfills around the UK, this causing high amounts of
methane released in the eviroment. Breaking a material down into its raw state and making it into
something new. This process preserves energy which is useful because more energy is used to make
new things than it is to recycle the old. It also reduces greenhouse emissions which are released into
the environment, saving over 18 tonnes of C02 a year. Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC).
(2008). About: The 3R's Still Rule. [online] Available at: http://www.nrdc.org/thisgreenlife/0802.asp
[Accessed 17
th
April, 2014]



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How recycling helps save energy (ADMIN. (2009). About: Recycling fun facts!. [online]
Available at: http://www.recyclingawarenessideas.com/2009/11/recycling-fun-facts-2.html
[Accessed 3
rd
May, 2014])

Recycling uses less energy which means fewer fossil fuels are burned; this means less C02 is
released into the atmosphere which also means less greenhouse gasses that cause global
warming.
Recycling aluminium cans uses 95% less energy than it does to make new ones
75% less energy is used to make cans used to store in cupboards than it does to create new
ones from raw materials.











Oslo, Marie Asbjornsen, 2006. Recycled maps of Oslo, cartoon, aluminium and silver. Photo: Marie
Asbjornsen. (MacDonald, J. (2009). Jewellery from recycled materials. London: A&C Black publishers
limited.)
Recycling paper not only saves one energy it also saves trees and rainforests, which save
animals and their habitats. The process also save around 60% less energy than it does to
make wood pulp to create the paper.




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In the red bay: The arts necklace, Emiko Oye, 2001. Recycled glass, resin, sterling silver and
transparencies. Artists collection. Photo: Hap Sakwa. (MacDonald, J. (2009). Jewellery from recycled
materials. London: A&C Black publishers limited.)
Glass has the lowest amount of energy saved. It saves around 30% energy because the glass has to
be heated to melting point to get it back to its natural raw state. Glass bottles can be recycled again
but not in a recycling factory, the common household can reuse the jars for things such as storage,
preserves and also cups.






Neclace, Marie Asbjornsen 2006. Aluminium boxes and coated steel wire. The museum of decorative
arts and design. Photo: Marie Asbjornsen (MacDonald, J. (2009). Jewellery from recycled materials.
London: A&C Black publishers limited.)
Recycling aluminium is one of the best recycling processes. It requires very little energy and
can be used many times. The process only takes around 5% energy than it does to make a
whole new batch. The cans are heated, melted and added to some new raw material to
create more cans and other containers.


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Polyp colony, Isobel Wise, 2003. CR-39 lens plastic, sterling silver and nylon. Artist collection. Photo:
Victor France (MacDonald, J. (2009). Jewellery from recycled materials. London: A&C Black publishers
limited.)
Recycling plastic depends on what materials were previously stored in them. For
example, bottles that display a number one are for things such as fizzy drink bottles and
ready meal packets. Bottles marked number two are usually used for mild and washing
up liquid and bottles marked with a number 3 are used for cling film, shampoo and
mineral water.

How it can help the future generation?
Cutting down on the costs of materials can be a brilliant way to make a better profit.
Designers find it hard to minimalize the costs but make the final product better.
Using former scrap metals can help with this, like retaining silver scraps and using
them to melt and cast objects, also using found objects as the casting mould, this
saving on time which is also money. This can also help with lowering the amounts of
c02 which are released into the air causing greenhouse emissions and polluting the
environment, making less landfills and using less energy and materials to create new
items.

How old materials are better for experimenting with?
Using recycled materials in mixed media jewellery is great to experiment with. Using
materials such as glass, plastic bottles and cardboard are easy to come by. This is a
bonus to experimenting because the unlimited amount of materials gives you
enough to manipulate and play with. Mass amounts of materials such as paper, easy
to come by in everyday circumstances, for example newspapers, leaflets and
receipts. This giving the designer enough materials for trial and error when
experimenting.





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Designer and jeweller Janna Syvanoja
uses recycled materials to create her
jewellery pieces. Mostly from finely cut
pieces of paper and metals such as steel
wire to thread and join them together.
Syvanojas work is like finely sculpted
pieces of jewellery that look somewhat
futuristic but with a natural organic feel
and flow.





The previous use of the paper material associates with communication
between people message and expression. A piece of jewellery is worn for
the same purpose
Janna Syvanoja


Designers that I have researched use non precious materials with precious metals. For
example, Margaux Lange uses materials such as old Barbie dolls but then sets them in
sterling silver inlays for brooches or pendants. (Lange, M. (n.d.). About: Margaux Lange.
[online] Available at: http://www.margauxlange.com/ [Accessed 13
th
April, 2014])

Metals such as brass, copper, guilding metal and bronze can easily be joined by soldering
together. The metals can be joined by using silver solder, flux, water and a heat torch.
Mixing alloys together can be hazardous or can ruin other metals. For example, in my first
year of university, on the health and safety course induction I learnt that mixing the slightest
bit of aluminium dust with sterling silver can contaminate the silver becomes brittle due to
the aluminium eating away at the silver. This makes the sterling silver not so sterling.
The properties of metals are what make the difference. Metals like iron and steel are usually
avoided by jewellers because they can ruin pickling solutions and other metals that they
come into contact with. Non-ferrous metals (metals which don not contain iron) are the
most used metals used historically in jewellery work. Precious metals such as platinum, gold
and silver are considered precious metals and metals such as copper, nickel, brass,
Janna Syvanoja
Necklace, 2010 Recycled paper and steel
wire - 5 x 11 x 17 Diameter 21cm.
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aluminium and titanium are base metals. Alloys are mixed non-ferrous metals that have
been combined together to create new metals. For example, bronze is a mixed metal
creation. The colours of alloys are intensified and the strength of the material is tougher.
Some alloys that are popular are sterling silver, white gold and rose gold. (Holschuh,
Brandon.(2009) the jewellers studio handbook. Quarry books. [Accessed July 13
th
2014])


Different atomic mechanisms of alloy formations.

In 2006, Julia Manheim, the writer of the book sustainable jewellery, worked with Ken
Taylor to created privacy screens around Manheims studio in South London. These screens
not only used for privacy purposes but also stopped big gusts of wind. Taylor, known for
being an architect and Manheim a jeweller, created these barriers from plastic milk bottles
encased in steel gabions. The building was previously known for being a milk depot and
these barriers show the indication of change over the past few years. This collection of
easily disposed of bottles shows new materials being introduced for other uses than rather
they were intended for. Over several years, jeweller Manheim has gained a reputation for
working with other specialised artists, such as dance objects, performance and sculpture
work. These have guided her down different routes on which she intended and has gained
her different skills in using a wide spectrum of materials and techniques. (Manheim, J.
(2009). Sustainable Jewellery. London: A&C Black publishers limited.)
The average UK household waste consists of 35% organic materials, 30% paper, 12%
construction, 9% plastics, 6% metal, 5% other and 3% glass. Organic materials such as fruit
and vegetable skins can be turned into compost. Some of these materials can be dried and
added to pulp which is made from paper. This, creating textured paper. Plastics can be
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recycled depending on the number grade displayed on the bottom of the object. Metals and
glass can be melted down and reused over and over again, but unfortunately these items
get disposed of in landfills and dumping sites. In the past few years, councils all over the UK
are promoting recycling in the average family household. Giving multiple coloured bins to
separate plastic, paper, cardboard and glass and metals.
Using found objects and other materials that have already been used can seem a little like
the designer is cheating to create cheap art. The uncultured public viewers can see and
analyse this as a lazy form of art.
Asking such questions as why not use brand new materials and create something shiny?,
why didnt they use materials that have never been touched? and I could have made
that!. Personally I find that the found object jewellery is more visually appealing. Aged,
distressed and beautiful to look at but others may disagree. It tells its own story rather than
the mass produced jewellery that you see day in day out being replicated over and over
again.
It could be argued that the three Rs method is used more often than not in an eco-designer
and makers thought process. The three Rs are - reduce, reuse and recycle. For example:
using a small tin as a starting point of a piece of jewellery. Making the tin in to a bezel and
casting a resin design and setting the piece in the original tin. Creating a statement piece of
recycled and also stainable jewellery and saving on metal costs but also reusing old
materials that were originally left for scrap. The three Rs are always good to refer back to
when trying to create
Recycled jewellery just doesnt mean placing any old object on a necklace. Often, jewellers
purchase old jewellery and make it something new but still using the old designs elements.
For example, melting the metals down and forming it into something else. Using the stones,
clasps or even the jump rings and chains and adding them to their own design. More often
than not, people use old wedding bands, even if theyre from a broken marriage, inherited
from family or even just if theyre renewing their wedding vows. These are usually melted
down and cast into another design. Still holding on to the sentimental value of the jewellery
but giving it a new lease of life.
Keith Lo Bue collects objects from junk piles, antique shops and flea markets. He stores
these objects in a personal storage system. They are stored by metal, colour, shape and
material. Not only does he create pieces of found object jewellery he has run several
workshops to get children aged between 8 and 14 in to creating new things from found
objects. Making the kids see a better way to use objects that can usually be considered to be
trash and easily disposed of. Help creating and making the future generation see the
positives in creating things from found objects rather than buying new, helping to save the
environment and how to recycle things. Some parents also got their hands dirty in the
process. These workshops were called Kids attack found objects in Hervey Bay. Held on the
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30
th
July back in 2010, these workshops were held in the same gallery where he was
currently exhibiting. The workshop was to get kids to create art from found objects but with
the task of not using glue. Lo Bues exhibition and workshops were a success. His own
daughter even got involved in the workshop, helping others and making new friends. The
kids all got involved and rather than using tape as a bonding agent, the children used it for
purely decorative purposes. (Bue, K. L. (2011). Stuffsmith: Volume One. Keith Lo Bue: Self-
publication)
Many designers who started out by using all new materials and then later took up using
mixed media jewellery which slowly interoperated recycled and found objects made the
designers look at less precious materials in a more creative manner now. Referring to Jaimie
MacDonalds book (MacDonald, J. (2009). Jewellery from recycled materials. London: A&C
Black publishers limited.), jewellery from recycled materials, she says she looks at her
surroundings in a different manner, becoming aware of the eviroment and these helping her
take her designing into a different direction. I personally find this inspiring. Over the past
several years, I have begun making my own collection of objects that I have found. The
range from old buttons, broken watches and clocks and random scraps like motorbike cogs
Ive found in my local woods. Most of these objects havent been used in any work of mine
yet but from time to time I do incorporate some of them into my jewellery work.
Some jewellery designers will even use materials from the human body but nothing too
disgusting for obvious reasons. Some designers have used materials such as human hair to
create casts for metalwork, pockets for second hand lockets to go in and also intricate
handmade neck pieces. Designer Kerry Howley uses human hair to create neck pieces to
conflict the human emotions. Hair is considered to be attractive and well cared for when it is
still on the body but once it is removed it is considered less attractive and more repulsive.
Howley tries to make her work more attractive by constructing it in a more appealing way.
Creating beautiful and intricate patterns to try and distract the viewer from it being made
from hair in which has been disposed of. Her work still has mixed reviews about it. (Howley,
K. (n.d.). About: Kerry Howley. [online] Available at: http://www.kerryhowley.co.uk/
[Accessed: 26
th
April, 2014])


Creativity is not the finding of a thing, but the making something out of it
after it is found
James Russell Lowell (1819 1891)


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In conclusion, the use of recycled and found object jewellery may not make a great
difference to the environment as much as the use of recycling in the everyday household
but can inspire future designers and makers to take a different approach towards the use of
materials. This will make the designers more aware of the materials and more conscious of
the use of new materials. Incorporating the old materials with the new and making the
jewellery more desirable to the general public and the eco warriors out there.
The impact of the use of recycled materials in jewellery isnt life changing but its a step in
the right direction to show other that you do not have to use brand new materials to create
art. The experimentation of these materials can help designers and makers become more
flexible with ideas and how they execute the use of materials.
The arts and crafts industry will always have critics saying that they either love or hate the
work of some artists so this should not put anyone off creating art that they are passionate
about. Especially when It comes to using materials which are often just tossed away in the
bin.
























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References

BBC. (n.d.). About: World war 2: The War Effort. [online] Available at:
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th

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