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N1

Complimentary copy
www.inyourpocket.com
Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
BUDVA
The Budva Riviera
Some of the Adriatics best beaches
can be found in and around Budva
Theatre City
A city-wide open-air performing arts
festival like none other in the region
Sveti Stefan
Follow in the footsteps of the worlds
most glamourous holidaymakers
2012
In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.
The New York Times
Including
Kotor
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Choose Prva!
Branch Ofces
Budva
Branch Ofce Budva, Mediteranska St. 5
Toward hotel Avala resort & Spa Villas
Counter Splendid, Conference & Spa resort
Beii bb
Tivat
Branch Ofce Tivat, Pine bb
City promenade
Kotor
Branch Ofce Kotor, Trg od oruja bb
Main Old Town Square
ATMs
Budva
Mediteranska St. 5, Branch Ofce Budva
Toward hotel Avala resort & Spa Villas
Mediteranska St. 8, Main Post Ofce Budva
Toward hotel Avala resort & Spa Villas
Beii, Splendid Conference & Spa resort
Reception
Beii, Splendid Conference & Spa resort
Counter
Petrovac bb, Post Ofce
Kotor
Trg od oruja bb, Branch Ofce Kotor
Main Old Town Square
Hotel Cattaro Maximus
Prvoboraca St. 232, Casino Win
Tivat
Pine bb, Branch Ofce Tivat
City promenade
For all that matters
Choose Prva!
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
4
CONTENTS
Arriving & Getting Around 8
Transportation and tourist info
The Basics 12
Budva by the numbers and more
History 15
Mythological founding to independence
Language 15
Basics for eating, drinking and getting around
Where to stay 16
Exclusive resorts to basic apartments
Restaurants 27
Meat-lovers rejoice, vegetarians beware
The famed Sveti Stefan resort island is onl y a few
kilometres south of Budva, photo courtesy of the Tourist
Organisation of Budva
Contents
Cafs 36
Get your caffeine fix or start drinking early
Nightlife 38
Beach bars, pubs and one enormous club
Beaches 42
A full guide to Budvas raison dtre
Sightseeing 44
The old town, Sveti Stefan and more
Shopping 50
Exclusive shopping at Porto Montenegro
Kotor 52
A UNESCO heritage site unlike any other
Directory 58
SIM cards, laundry and everything in between
Maps & Index
Budva Riviera map 59
City centre map 60
Index 62
Unlike our cover photo, you wont need your own fl ying
machine to get a shot from this angle, photo by Aleksandar
Jaredi
PORTO MONT ENEGRO
+382 (0)32 660 900 or i nf o@por tomontenegro. com
www. portomontenegro. com
INTERNATIONAL SHOPPING
NAVAL HERITAGE COLLECTION
CHILDRENS PLAYGROUND PIRATE SHIP
WATERFRONT DINING
WATER SPORTS
PUROBEACH POOL & BAR
T HE MED S L EADI NG LUXURY YACHT
HOMEPORT AND MARI NA VI L L AGE
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
6
FOREWORD
Dominated by the bell tower of St John the Baptist
Church, what Budvas old town lacks in square metres
it makes up for with centuries of historical intrigue,
reminders of which can be found around nearly every
corner. In our humble opinion, wandering aimless down
the beautifully restored alleyways is one of the most
pleasant ways to pass your time at the coast. Throw in a
couple of beaches with azure waves lapping against the
ancient city walls, a few atmospheric bars and several
genuinely homey traditional restaurants and youve got
yourself one hell of an old town.
Cover story
Editorial
Editor Yuri Barron
Research Adria Management Group
Layout & Design Vaida Gudynait
Photos Branka Jovanovi, Yuri Barron,
Tourist Organisation of Budva
Cover Tourist Organisation of Budva
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Marko Mirovi
marko.mirovic@inyourpocket.com
+382 69 55 67 95
Its with great honour and satisfaction that we proudl y
bring you the first edition of Budva In Your Pocket, just in
time for the 2012 summer season. In the following pag-
es you will (hopefull y) find everything you need to know
about the city before and during your stay in the undis-
puted capital of Montenegros Adriatic coast. Its with
good reason that Budva is nicknamed the Montenegrin
Miami, as the beach takes centre stage here, the night-
life is by far the best in the entire region and every year
more of the worlds elite jet setters flock here for a taste
of everything the Budva Riviera has to offer. That said,
dont fret if youre not fortunate enough to count yourself
among the ul tra-weal thy or prefer cul ture to clubbing, as
the city offers something for every budget and boasts
enough sights to keep even veteran travellers satisfied.
Weve also made sure to include a few of Budvas world
famous neighbours, namel y the fortified island resort
town of Sveti Stefan, and Kotor, a UNESCO Heritage
site on one of the Mediterraneans most breathtaking
bays. Thanks to all the welcoming, proud, friendl y, drunk,
knowledgeable, helpful locals who assisted us while we
were painstakingl y researching the guide at Budvas
many beaches, bars and restaurants - as they say, its
tough work, but someones got to do it! If you have any
questions, comments or suggestions we welcome any
and all feedback, be it on Facebook, Foursquare, Twitter
or even old-fashioned email.
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright PIYP
s.r.o. 2000-2012. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Bernardin 9-4, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearl y marked as such. We welcome all
readers comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
Budva In Your Pocket
Moskovska 16, Podgorica
Montenegro
budva@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1800-9778
Printed by Golbi Print Podgorica
Published 1 time per year
30,000 copies
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
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Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
8
ARRIVING & GETTING AROUND
Tourist Organization of Budva (Turistika
organizacija Budve) B/C-3, Mediteranska 8/6,
TQ Plaza, tel. +382 33 40 28 14/+382 33 40 28 15,
tob@t-com.me, www.budva.travel. Budvas friendly
tourism office can help with accommodation and travel
tips. Its located on the 6th floor of TQ Plaza. Check bellow
to see the locations of their info points in town. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Tourist Organization of Budva (Info Point 1) C-2,
Trg Sunca bb, tel. +382 33 45 34 16, www.budva.
travel. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.
Tourist Organization of Budva (Info Point 2)
B-4, Njegoeva 28, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 27
50, www.budva.travel. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
09:00 - 14:00.
Tourist Organization of Budva (Info Point 3)
C-2, Popa Jola Zeca bb, Bus station, tel. +382 68
89 09 24, www.budva.travel. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Sun 08:00 - 14:00. Open: June - September
Tourist Organization of Budva (Info Point 4)
E-3, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 69 26 78 12, www.
budva.travel. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.
June - August
Tourist Organization of Budva (Info Point 5)
J-2, Rafailovii bb, tel. +382 69 63 35 91, www.
budva.travel. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.
June - August
Tourist Organization of Budva (Info Point 6) J-2,
Prno bb, tel. +382 69 14 53 11, www.budva.travel.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. June - August
Tourist Organization of Budva (Info Point 7)
J-2, Sveti Stefan, www.budva.travel. Find all the in-
formation you need in Cipa and Levantin travel agencies.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. June - August.
Tourist information
Flights
Tivat International Airport is only 8km away, but unless
youre coming with your own private jet or on one of the fre-
quently scheduled flights from Russia, youll most likely be
arriving at Podgorica Airport, which has many direct flights
to around a dozen or European cities throughout the year.
Buses
Local buses begin and terminate in Mediteranska Street,
directly opposite Perla. Two lines run all the way to Sveti
Stefan and Petrovac, both starting at 06:00 and running
every 15-20 minutes during the summer, with the last
buses back to Budva leaving around midnight. In the sum-
mer additional also go to Jaz, Trsteno and Ploe every hour
from 07:00 to 18:00. Intercity and international buses are
frequent and surprisingly punctual, with the most common
routes being Hercog Novi, Podgorica and Belgrade. There
are also daily buses to Dubrovnik in the summer, but its
advisable to arrive early if you want a ticket.
Cars and Parking
In short, driving and parking your own car during the
summer in Budva is a nightmare at best and an absurd
exercise in futility at worst. While having your own car
is great for exploring the countryside and getting to the
beach, make sure to book a hotel with parking and avoid
driving in the city to avoid unnecessary headaches.
Airlines
Montenegro Airlines B-3, Mediteranska 21, tel. +382
33 45 17 35/+382 33 45 62 44, office.podgorica@
mgx.me, www.montenegroairlines.com. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Airports
Podgorica Airport (Aerodrom Podgorica) Golubovci,
tel. +382 20 44 42 44/+382 20 44 42 33, fax +382 20
44 42 21, info@apm.co.me, www.montenegroairports.
com. TGD.
Tivat Airport (Aerodrom Tivat) Tivat, tel. +382 32
67 09 60, fax +382 32 67 09 50, dispatch@aptivat.com,
www.montenegroairports.com.
Car Rental
Amon D-1, rtava faizma bb, tel. +382 69 43 33
44/+382 33 46 58 12, info@amon-budva.me, www.
amon-budva.me. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
10
ARRIVING & GETTING AROUND
Although size-wise Budva is a town that can easily be covered
on foot, walking around in oppressive summer heat is a far
from pleasurable experience. Luckily, Budvas taxis are plenti-
ful, comfortable and even cheap if you call one of the more
reputable companies weve listed here. Hailing one on the
street, especially at taxi ranks, almost guarantees youll be
overcharged at least two or three times the going rate.
Hello Tel. +382 195 55.
Slava Tel. +382 197 15/+382 68 01 97 15 (sms).
19715
Terrae Tel. +382 197 17, terrae-car@t-com.me,
www.terraecar.com.
Taxis
Bon Voyage H-2, Beii bb, tel. +382 67 35 03
33/+382 68 81 21 00, info@bonvoyage-rentacar.com,
www.bonvoyage-rentacar.com.
City CarB-3, Mediteranska 23, tel. +382 69 01 16 00/+382
67 61 16 00, www.rentacarcity.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Dimpex C-3, Juni bulevar bb, tel. +382 69 38 95
01/+382 69 02 76 32, dimpex@t-com.me, www.
rentacardimpex.com.
Magic E-3, CDF Podkoljun bb, tel. +382 33 40 17
30/+382 67 60 63 14, magic.rentacar@t-com.me.
QOpen 08:00 - 15:00.
Mixage E-2, Velji Vinogradi bb, tel. +382 33 45 89
18/+382 67 45 67 67, mixage@t-com.me, www.mix-
age.me. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Sixt D-2, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 67 64 52 01, of-
fice@sixt.co.me, www.sixt.co.me. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00,
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Terrae Car B/C-3, Mediteranska bb (TQ Plaza), tel.
+382 67 24 88 99/+382 69 44 43 34, terrae-car@t-com.
me, www.terraecar.com. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
Travel Agencies
Adria D.M.C. C-2, Popa Jola Zeca bb, tel. +382 33 45
51 81/+382 33 45 51 82, adriaex@t-com.me. QOpen
08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Maroje Travel B-1, tel. +382 33 45 42 19/+382 69 55
43 96, marojebd@t-com.me. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Monteline Travel D-3, Hotel Slovenska plaa, tel. +382
33 45 26 07, monteline@t-com.me, www.montelinetravel.
com. Trips around Montenegro. QOpen 09:00 - 00:00.
Montenegro Cruising H-2, Beii bb, tel. +382 68 82
13 00/+382 33 47 18 91, marketing@montenegrocruis-
ing.com, www.montenegrocruising.com. QOpen 09:00
- 11:00 15-:00-21:00.
Pilon C-3, 22 Novembra bb, tel. +382 33 45 21 26/+382
69 25 64 44, pilon@t-com.me, www.pilontravel.com.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Prometheus E-1, Mainski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 31
22/+382 69 34 56 64, prometheus@t-com.me, www.mon-
tenegro.prometheus-travel.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00.
R-Tours E-3, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 15 02,
rtoursbd@t-com.me, www.r-tours.me. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,
Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Silver Holiday C-1, I Proleterske S52, tel. +382 33 45
20 05, mneotpusk@gmail.com, www.silverholiday.me.
Q Open: Mon - Sat 08:00-13:00 and 16:00-21:00
Talas M C-1, I Proleterske S53, tel. +382 33 40 25
40/+382 33 40 38 60, booking@talas-montenegro.com,
www.talas-m.co.me. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Travel Centar E-3, Lugovi bb, tel. +382 33 45 97 06,
tc@t-com.me, www.tc-montenegro.com. QOpen 09:00 -
19:00. Closed Sun.
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
12
BASICS
Communism
The communist era was a dark age for many countries
in Europe, but many older people in Montenegro fondly
tell stories of how good it was when called each other
comrade (drue) and lived in the Socialist Federal Republic
of Yugoslavia, a country with something to say on the world
stage. But apart from some statues and buildings, the visible
communist legacy is disappearing fast.
Driving
Getting around the country by car is relatively fast and
efficient, though driving can be manic; beware of dare-
devils overtaking on blind corners. The maximum speed
in Montenegro is 50km/hr in towns and villages, 80km/hr
on other roads unless indicated otherwise, which is strictly
enforced around Budva - especially on the stretch of road
into town from the airport.
Electricity
Montenegrin domestic electricity is 220V AC, 50 Hertz,
supplied through standard European two-pin sockets.
Gay & Lesbian
The Bal kan paternal i sti c macho cul ture i s strong i n
Montenegro, with men expected to be chunky and manly,
and women to be elegant and dependent. Public displays of
homosexuality are not tolerated and gay visitors should be
careful to avoid hostile reactions. Even in the international
resort town of Budva theres little tolerance, and there are
as yet no gay bars or clubs.
Mobile Phones
While a mobile phone from your home country should have
no problem roaming on Montenegros networks, to avoid bill
shock after you return its best to get a local Montenegrin
number, even i f you dont plan to make many calls. As a
point of reference, we once paid nearly 3 per minute to
make calls from our Slovenian number. SIM cards from all
the major carriers can be purchased at any of the numerous
phone shops or post offices around town for only a few
euros (ID required).
Money
Montenegros official currency is the euro (), with notes
coming in the standard denominations between 5 and 500,
while coins are worth between 0.01 and 2. Montenegro
unilaterally decided to switch from the Yugoslav dinar to
the German mark in 1999, and adopted the euro when the
currency was introduced in 2002. Although Montenegro
doesnt have a monetary agreement with the European
Central Bank and does not have issuing rights, the EU does
not object to Montenegro using it. Euros are best obtained
from ATMs where EU account holders should be charged the
same transaction fees as in their home country.
Registration
Forei gners spending the ni ght in Montenegro of ficiall y
need to be registered. All hotels and registered private
accommodations take care of this for you. However, if youre
staying in the latter double check that the owner has done
so, as you can have problems exiting the country if this was
not the case.
Religion
The major religion in Montenegro is Orthodox Christianity.
Other i mpor tant rel i gi ous communi ti es are Musl i ms,
especially in the Albanian-inhabited area around Ulcinj, and
Catholics.
Safety
Budva is a peaceful place and visi tors should take no
more precautions than for other European cities. With a
prevalent and youthful caf culture, alcohol poisoning and/
or falling in love with a local are currently the biggest threats
to foreigners.
Climate
How far does your euro, pound or dollar go?
Taxi from airport to city centre 10
Espresso 1-1.50
Glass of local beer (0.5 litre) 2-2.5
Mineral water (1.5 litre) 0.50
Mars bar 0.50
Purchasing power
Well make sure to send Hello Kitty a few copies of the
guide, so this little girl can get some free swag from them
1 EUR = 1.27 US$ = 0.81 UK = 1.20 CHF =
8.08 CNY = 101 = 41
(21 June 2012)
Exchange rates
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
14
BASICS
2012 budva.inyourpocket.com
15
HISTORY
Population
Montenegro 620,029, Budva 19,218 (2011)
Territory
13,812 square kilometres
Borders
Adriatic 293km Albania 172km Bosnia 255km
Croatia 14km Kosovo 60km Serbia 143km
Longest river
Tara (Drina) 144km (110km in Montenegro)
Largest lake
Skadar 370-530 square kilometres (shared with
Albania. Size depends on water level)
Highest point
Bobotov Kuk (Durmitor) 2,523m
Longest beach:
Velika Plaa, Ulcinj 13km
UNESCO World Heritage sites
Durmitor National Park, Kotor old town, Kotor Bay,
Tara Canyon
Local time
GMT+1 Daylight saving time between the last Sundays
of March and October.
Montenegro by the numbers
Language
The locals have recently decided to officially name the
language they speak Montenegrin. This is a dialect of Serbian
that has been promoted as the national language since
independence in 2006, though many locals still declare they
simply speak Serbian. Whatever you want to call it, its a south
Slavic language closely linked to others in the region, but with
small variations and an alphabet that has two extra letters.
As in Serbia, both the Latin and Cyrillic can be used to
write Montenegrin, though nearly all texts, street names
and newspapers are in Latin script. While were on the
topic of language, note that people from Montenegro are
not Montenegroes as you sometimes see written, but
Montenegrins.
Pronunciation
like ch in church
similar to ,- but softer
D d like g in George
/DJ /dj like j in jaw
J j like y in yes
like sh in show
U u like oo in roof
like x in luxurious
Niceties & Necessities
Yes Da No Ne
Hello Zdravo Goodbye dovienja
Good Dobro Please Molim
Thank you Hvala Here you are Izvolite
Good morning Dobro jutro Good day Dobar dan
Good evening Dobro vee Good night Laku no
Cheers! ivjeli! All the best! Sve najbolje!
Excuse me Oprostite Sorry Izvinite
How are you? Kako si?
Practicalities
My name is... Moje ime je
Im from... Ja sam iz
...UK ...Velika Britanija
...USA ...Amerika
I dont understand Ne razumijem
I dont speak... Ne govorim...
... Montenegrin/Serbian Crnogorski/Srpski
Whats your name? Kako se ti zove?/Kako ti je ime?
A ticket, please Kartu, molim
How much does this cost? Koliko ovo kota?
When? Kada?
Now Sada / Odmah
Where? Gdje?
Here Ovdje
There Tamo
Who? Ko?
Why? Zato?
What? ta?
I have... A imam...
I am... Ja sam
Signs
Open Otvoreno Closed Zatvoreno
Entrance Ulaz Exit Izlaz
Push Guraj Pull Vuci
No smoking Zabranjeno puenje
Numbers
0 - nula
1 - jedan
2 - dva
3 - tri
Smoking
Visi tors to restaurants and bars will see plenty of no-
smoking signs and a number of non-smoking areas, but
unfortunatel y the l ocals rebelli ous spiri t and tobacco
addictions mean that these are widely ignored. I f youre
a forei gn smoker i ts not uncommon for wai ters to
accommodate you by bringing a small dish rather than a
proper ashtray, which limits their risk of fine in the event
that an inspector is lurking about.
Visas
For stays of up to 90 days, visas are not required for
citizens of the EU, western and many other countries. All
others need a visa, although those with valid Schengen
(EU) visas or US visas may stay visa-free for up to seven
days.
Water
Whi l e tap water i s of fi ci al l y safe to dri nk i n Budva,
bottl ed water is wi del y availabl e, and as far as were
concerned i ts better to be safe than sorry whil st on
holiday. You can support the local economy by buying good
Montenegrin brands like Aqua Bianca, Aqua Monta and
Suza.
Vice
Prostitution and drug use are illegal in Montenegro, and
plain-clothes police officers wont have any second thoughts
about arresting and charging foreigners who are looking to
have a little too much fun.
Budva is considered one of the oldest settlements on the
Adriatic coast, with vast archeological evidence suggesting
that it had already developed into an urban area as early
as 500 BC. But of course like many - if not most - ancient
Mediterranean towns, Budva also has a founding mythology
that goes back even further.
Legend has it that the Phoenician prince Cadmus and his
wife Harmonia landed near modern Budva after having fled
from Thebes, which he had founded some years earlier after
consulting the oracle at Delphi and following a special cow
all the way to Egypt. Before you laugh, know that Budva has
an even stronger bovine connection, as Cadmus mode of
transport on his flight from Thebes was oxen, which in Greek
are called bous, from which Budvas name was derived.
In more archeologically supported terms, Budva was already
inhabited by the Illyrians prior to the 5th century BC, when
it was described in one of the plays of famed Greek trage-
dian Sophocles. The following century it developed into a
wealthy Hellenist trading centre and colonised by the Greeks
for several hundred years. The prosperity it enjoyed during
this period made it an attractive takeover target for the
expansionist Romans, who gained control of ancient Budva
in the year 168 BC and ruled it continuously for nearly half
a millennium, until their inevitable downfall in 395.
Now boasting grand buildings, paved roads and thick defen-
sive walls, the city came under the control of the Byzantine at
the beginning of the 6th century, and although this nominally
remained the case well into the 12th century, Slavs began
moving into the area as early as the 7th century and were
already a well-established ethnic group by 841 when the city
was sacked the Saracens.
In 1186, Budva fell under Serbian control for the first time,
and remained part of the Nemanji dynasty until the Vene-
tians came at the beginning of the 15th century. Between
then and the downfall of the Most Serene Republic in 1797,
Budvas old town took the form for which it is still famous
to this day.
As with most of Europe, the turn of the 19th century was a
tumultuous time for Budva, as control passed between the
empires of Venice, Austria, Russia and France in a period
of only a single decade, before finally falling back to the
Austrians, under whom Budva stayed for over a century
until Serbian and Montenegrin independence finally came
in 1918 at the end of WWI.
From this point onwards, Budvas history converges with
that of modern Montenegros, first becoming a part of
the Kingdom of Serbs. Croats and Slovenes and later the
Kingdom of Yugoslavia during the interwar period, before
emerging as one of the six constituent republics of social
Yugoslavia after WWII.
After the infamous breakup of Yugoslavia began in 1990,
Montenegro stuck out the union longer than others, only
beginning to sever ties with Belgrade in 1996, officially
dropping the Yugoslavia moniker in 2003 and finally gain-
ing full independence after a referendum in 2006 - making
Montenegro either the second, third or fourth youngest state
in the world depending on your calculations.
Balkans
In Your Pocket
Covering 70 cities and towns in nine
Balkan countries, In Your Pocket offers
unparalleled access to travel informa-
tion and foreign travellers. Whether
youre planning a business/leisure
trip, or if youre looking to advertise to
travellers with money to spend, In Your
Pocket is the city guide series for you.
www.inyourpocket.com
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
16
WHERE TO STAY
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant M Nearest metro station
D Sauna C Swimming pool
6 Animal friendl y W Wi-Fi connection
Symbol key
Budva has thousands of beds, creaking under the weight
of Russian and other tourists in summer, but mainly used
by conference guests in winter.
Upmarket
Aman Sveti Stefan J-2, Sveti Stefan bb, tel. +382 33 42 00
00, fax +382 33 42 02 22, amansvetistefan@amanresorts.
com, www.amanresorts.com. The jewel of Montenegros
Adriatic coast and perhaps the most exquisite island in the entire
Mediterranean (a bold statement to be sure, but one that we
sincerely mean), some people are understandably disappointed
when they discover that Sveti Stefan is actually a private resort
island, which is no longer open to the public. However, for those
who can afford to stay in one of the 50 extensively renovated and
uniquely designed rooms, cottages or suites that now occupy the
bulk of the islands buildings, the experience is simply otherworldly.
A further eight suites are also available at the nearby Villa Miloer
on the mainland, which was formerly the summer residence of
the royal family and the first of the two properties to open in
2009. For those without bank balances large enough to cover
even the modestly priced rooms (750 per night, minimum three
nights in July and August), take heart! You can still use the public
beach located just opposite the islands southeastern walls.
PARIFLBKDCW
Astoria B-4, Njegoeva 4, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 11
10/+382 69 77 55 11, fax +382 33 45 12 15, budva@
astoriamontenegro.com, www.astoriamontenegro.com.
The onl y boutique hotel in Budvas well-preserved old town,
Astoria is trul y in a class of its own, exquisitel y combining
modern minimalist Mediterranean-influenced interior design
with the original architectural elements of the centuries-old
noble house in which it is located. The service is of course
excellent, as is the restaurant, which opens perhaps the best
terrace in the city on the buildings rooftop overlooking the
sea during the summer months. Booking well in advance is
recommended, as the six rooms and six larger suites here
are constantl y in high demand. Q 12 rooms (singles 190-
220, doubles 230-260, triples 300, sui tes 290-420
from May - Sept, 95-120, 120-150, 170, 170-230 from
Oct - April). PJAKW
Avala A-4, Mediteranska 2, tel. +382 33 44 10 00, fax
+382 33 44 15 26, reservations@avalaresort.com, www.
avalaresort.com. Modern clashes with traditional where this
huge hotel and spa resort meets Budvas old town. Right on the
beach beside the city walls, its large and elegant rooms look
out on the Adriatic Sea or the mountains. Spacious and sophis-
ticated, yet simple and peaceful. Q 297 rooms (singles 175-
188, doubles 210-256, apartments 290-435 in July and Aug,
88-176, 112-224, 190-390 from Sept - May, Penthouse
3,500) 67 villas 288-448 in July and August, 176-392 from
Sept - May. POHAUFLGKDCW
Bella Vista H-2, Beii bb, tel. +382 33 47 13 77/+382
33 47 13 78, bellavista@t-com.me, www.bellavista.me.
The name is not a misnomer, as most rooms here boast
balconies with unobstructed sea views, and the onl y thing
separating guest from the beach is some 90m of grass and
trees. As the majority of accommodation is in the form of
apartments and even the standard rooms have kitchenettes
and ample space, this place really feels more like a residence
than a classic hotel, making it a perfect choice for those seek-
ing the privacy of the former with all of the advantages of the
latter. Q 44 rooms and apartments (singles 69, doubles
94-98, apartments 138-248 in July and Aug, 43-52, 58-
74, 81-196 in May-June and Sept-Oct). ALKW
Iberostar Bellevue H-2, Beii, tel. +382 33 42 51 00, fax
+382 33 42 51 25, reservations@iberostar.co.me, www.
iberostar.com. An all-inclusive package hotel beside Beii
beach, the Iberostar Bellevue ships in foreigners by the planeload
to enjoy the beautiful gardens, swimming pools, and decent
rooms. Many guests are happy to stay in the hotel perimeter for
days, using the tennis and basketball courts to stay slim. Q 562
rooms (doubles 182-228). PTHAUFLGKDC
Maestral J-2, Prno, Sveti Stefan, tel. +382 33 41 01 09,
fax +382 33 41 01 90, hotel@maestral.info, www.maestral.
info. Across the bay beside the old fishing village of Prno, the
luxury Maestral hotel offers fantastic views across to Budva. The
recently renovated four-star wonder has stunning interiors as
well as a brand new wing for even more exclusive guests. Expect
spacious suites, lush gardens, a good beach out front and great
views. Q 214 rooms (singles 135-251, doubles 180-662,
apartments 432-1920, exclusive apartments 960-5000 from
June - Aug, 79-129, 106-342, 248-1240, 650-5,000 from
Sept - May). POTHAUFLGKDCW
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
18
WHERE TO STAY
IOTFL SPLFNDID CONFFRFNCF o SPA VFSORT, MONTFNFGRO

Mediteran H-2, Beii, tel. +382 33 47 18 45/+382


33 47 18 46, prodaja@hotelmediteran.info, www.ho-
telmediteran.info. A short walk from the beach, this huge
four-star hotel complex is popular with both sun-worshippers
and conference-goers. Beauti ful and comfortable rooms,
great service and an excellent wellness centre go a long way
to make you feel like royal ty. Top that with an amazing aqua
park with indoor pool, and you are in for a great experience.
Q 230 rooms (singles 156-190, doubles 184-224 in Jul y
and Aug, 74-106, 114-164 from Apr - June and Sept - Oct).
PTHAFLGKDCW
Montenegro H-2, Beii, tel. +382 33 77 37 73, fax
+382 33 45 12 39, reservations@montenegrostars.com,
www.montenegrostars.com. Located right beside sandy
Becici beach, this hotel is paradise for tourists coming to unwind
and relax - though as the hotel offers a multitude of summery
activities, you wont be spending much time in the elegant
rooms. The hotel staff is welcoming and hospitable. Find it
two kilometres south of central Budva. Closed during winter.
Q 172 rooms (singles 154-174, doubles 206-232, apart-
ments 316-346 in July and Aug, 88-141, 118-188, 228-
346 from Sept - June). POHAUFLGKDCW
Queen of Montenegro H-2, Narodnog fronta bb, Beii,
tel. +382 33 66 26 62/+382 33 66 26 17, fax +382
33 66 26 33, hotel@queenofmontenegro.com, www.
queenofmontenegro.com. With a beautiful restaurant ter-
race and infinity pool overlooking the beach, well-designed
interiors and efficient rooms and suites, the large Queen of
Montenegro hotel is luxurious yet qui te simple. For those
who like to play there is an abundance of activities you can
participate in, including gambling. Q 232 rooms (singles
120-159, doubles 168-210, apartments 198-423 in Jul y
and Aug, 74-102, 103-158, 118-297 from Sept - May).
POTHAUFLGKDCW
Residence Jadranski put bb, Miloer, tel. +382 33 42 71
00, sales@hecmontenegro.com, www.residencemonte-
negro.com. We wont lie, once we knew that this place had a
rooftop swimming pool and bar with panoramic views of Prno
beach, it was love before first sight. Three of our favourite things
(pools, views and alcohol) all in the same place, are you kidding
us? However, this place doesnt miss a beat below roof-level
either, as the rooms and apartments are truly deserving of
the label luxurious, the exceedingly professional members of
staff speak English fluently and the location is unbeatable. Q 8
rooms and 21 suites (singles 170, doubles 198, suites 190-
298, deluxe suites 278-338). PTHALKCW
Slovenska Plaa D-3, Trg Slobode 1, tel. +382 33 45
16 54/+382 33 45 12 67, slplaza@t-com.me, www.
hgbudvanskarivijera.com. A city within a city, this sprawl-
ing Mediterranean-style resort has nearl y 1000 rooms and
apartments (no, those three zeros are not a typo), with vari-
ous shops, restaurants, bars, activity centres and much more
contained within its labyrinth of identical-looking streets and
alleyways - but only during the peak summer season. You can
tell that this was formerl y one of the top destinations on the
coast for Yugoslavian holiday-makers, and while recent years
have brought some much needed (and ongoing) renovations,
its still fallen a bit behind the times. ALKCW
Splendid (Splendid Conference & Spa Resort) H-2,
Beii bb, tel. +382 33 77 37 77/+382 33 77 47 74,
fax +382 33 77 37 57, reservations@montenegrostars.
com, www.montenegrostars.com. The brightest star of
the Montenegro Stars chain completel y dominates Becici
Beach. Its the most luxurious hotel in the country and has
everything you may need, including special business, wedding
and spa packages. With indoor and outdoor pools, a spa
(www.splendidspa-montenegro.com), a conference centre,
spacious halls, tastefull y decorated rooms and several bars
and restaurants (including a Japanese one), theres no doubt
that the Splendid is indeed splendid. Q 341 rooms (singles
288-436, doubles 384-582 in Jul y and Aug, 160-315,
214-420 from Sept - May), apartments 600-830 in Jul y
and Aug, 350-650 from Setp - May, Penthouse 4,000,
Presidential 7,000 per apartment. POTHAU
FLKDCW
Mid-range
Admiral E-3, Jadranski Put bb, tel. +382 33 45 92
63/+382 68 88 50 03, info@hoteladmiralbudva.com,
www.hoteladmiralbudva.com. Al though its often lumped
together with some of the other hulking monstrosities along
the Montenegrin coast, Admiral has aged better than most,
and relativel y recent renovations have made the place one
of the more popular options for budget conscious travellers
looking for a bit of luxury. Large flat screen TVs, an outdoor
swimming pool and one of the friendliest staffs around all
help its case. Q 32 rooms (singles 55, doubles 90 from
June - Sept, 30, 50 from Oct - Apr). LKW
Aquarius C-3, Zmajeva 8, tel. +382 33 40 27 16/+382 69
91 91 91, aquariusbudva@gmail.com, www.hotelaquari-
usbudva.com. Originally a well-regarded family-run restaurant,
over the past couple of decades the place has expanded to a
full-fledged medium-sized hotel with some three dozen rooms
and apartments. The two studio apartments are probably the
best deal of the lot, as the huge covered terraces are nearly as
large as the rooms themselves, while the regular apartments on
the top floor may give sufferers of claustrophobia fits due to the
low sloping ceilings. The restaurant is of course still open and
still quite good. Q 33 rooms (20-40 in July and Aug, 15-25
from Sept - May, per person). LKW
Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by al-
phabetical order within that band. The price band refers
to the rack rate for a double room.
Hotel Listings Policy
Not qui te as famous as the Dancing Girl statue, the
Golden Lady lamp is unarguabl y more functional, photo
by B. Jovanovi
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
20
WHERE TO STAY
Blue Star D-2, Mainski put bb, tel. +382 33 42
31 00/+382 33 77 37 77, fax +382 33 42 31 12,
rbluestar@montenegrostars.co.me, www.montene-
grostars.com. The Blue Star is one of the smaller hotels
the Montenegro Stars chain, but profiled as a business
hotel and located just 500 metres from Budvas Old Town
i ts well-placed for both business and leisure trips. Wi th
comfortable rooms, friendl y service and a lovel y restaurant,
i ts a quiet option compared to the larger hotels in town. Q
23 rooms (singles 96-116, doubles 148-178 in Jul y and
August, 64-116, 98-178 from Sept - June), 2 apartments
99 in Jul y and Aug, 79-99 from Sept - June per person.
PHA6UGKW
Fineso D-2, Mainski Put bb, tel. +382 33 45 41
20/+382 69 02 24 38, fax +382 33 45 38 50, www.
hotelfineso.com. A smallish famil y-run hotel housed in
a new three-floor building smack in the centre of town,
wi thin walking distance of everywhere you need to go, all
rooms have bal conies, parking is al ways availabl e and
from what weve experienced the service is a notch or
two above what you can expect at similarl y priced hotels.
Tennis players will also want to note that they can make
arrangements for guests at some well-kept courts nearby.
Q 17 rooms. LW
Fontana B-3, Slovenska Obala 23, tel. +382 33 45
21 53/+382 69 08 11 20, f ontana.lekic@t-com.
me. This narrow three-floor building offers nine cramped
rooms, which from the looks of the place were buil t while
Yugoslavia was still a uni fi ed countr y - al though to be
weve never confirmed this wi th the staff. But thats not
to say i ts completel y wi thout i ts charms. One persons
cramped is another persons cosy, and the l ocation in
the green space separating the waterfront from the the
newer part of town is undeniabl y prime. The service also
generall y gets good marks, as does the restaurant on
the ground floor. Q 9 rooms (singles 40, doubles 60).
ALKW
Grbalj C-2, Trg Sunca bb, tel./fax +382 33 45 23 00,
tel. +382 69 53 81 32, hotelgrbalj@t-com.me, www.
hotelgrbalj.com. The famil y-run Grbalj has been welcoming
guests to Budva and ensuring them a pleasurable stay for
nearl y two decades now. Located wi thin walking distance of
most places worth walking to, i ts still far enough away from
the open-air bars and clubs that you can enjoy some peace
and quiet and get a good nights sleep i f thats what youre
after. Theres ample parking in back for guests and good
restaurant on the ground floor. Q 18 rooms (singles 45,
doubles 60, triples 90, apartments 120 in Jul y & Aug,
35/50/75/100 from Sept - June). LKW
Kangaroo E-3, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 86 53,
fax +382 33 46 02 33, reservation@kangaroo.co.me,
www.kangaroo.co.me. A classic you get what you pay
for hotel, which in this case is prime location location wi th
free parking and rooms that are completel y adequate. Dont
expect any frills and the service can be a bi t - how should we
put i t? - unenthusiastic at times (especiall y for non-Serbian
speakers), but in terms of value i ts not bad. Q 32 rooms
(singles 32, doubles 64, triples 96). HLKW
Max Prestige E/F-3, rtava faizma bb, tel. +382 33
45 83 30, fax +382 33 45 83 50, maxprestige@t-com.
me, www.hotelmaxprestige.com. Al though i ts name
sounds like something that would be chosen by Homer
Simpson, i f we suppress our sarcastic instincts and look
at things objecti vel y, the place does defini tel y possess an
above average level of prestige. Looking like something
that would be more at home located on a secluded bluff
overlooking the sea, i ts somewhat residential location is
a bi t odd, but once inside i t does have an oasis-type feel
to i t. Large elegantl y designed rooms, even larger sui tes
(some wi th 2-floors), and a sprawling outdoor poll and
lounge area remind you that your money has been well-
spent. Q 11 rooms (singles 100, doubles 118 in Jul y and
August, 58-73, 78-98 from Sept - June), 8 apartments
69 in Jul y and Aug, 49-59 from Sept - June per person.
PTALKDCW
Mena E-2, Velji Vinogradi bb, tel. +382 33 45 93
10/+382 69 02 76 32, hotelmena@t-com.me, www.
hotelmena.com. A decent medium-sized hotel that gives you
the impression that they genuinel y care about making their
guests feel comfortable, the rooms here are kept thoroughl y
tidy and everything seems to run how it should. Parking is
available in an underground garage. Not the kind of place youll
be gushing to your friends about back home, but you will most
certainl y have a pleasant stay. Q 20 rooms (doubles 53
from June - Aug, 43 from Sept - May). ALKW
Mogren B-4, Slovenska obala, tel. +382 33 45
11 02/+382 33 40 15 12, fax +382 33 45 27 95,
hotelmogren@t-com.me, www.mogrenhotel.com. I f
your main aim is to get a taste of what i t was like to go on
holiday in Yugoslavia, during simpler times when the world
was di vided into black and whi te, everyone had a job, ce-
lebri ties were actuall y talented and everything was easier,
then a night or three at Hotel Morgen is defini tel y in your
cards. What were trying to say is this place is old. Some
people view i t as a romantic throwback, while others are
inclined to less lofty assessments. Well let you decide.
Q 49 rooms (singles 40-70, doubles 60-90, triples 90-
135, apartments 80-140). HLKW
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
22
WHERE TO STAY
2012 budva.inyourpocket.com
23
WHERE TO STAY
Oaza B-3, Slovenska obala 27, tel. +382 33 45
22 15/+382 69 02 47 56, fax +382 33 40 26 09,
oazabudva@t-com.me, www.oaza.co.me. Taking i ts
name from the peaceful green surroundings that somehow
manage to keep it hidden despite being onl y metres from the
promenade and main city beach, Oaza is a classic of the Mon-
tenegrin Riviera and equall y recommendable for its location,
service and overall ambience. Some rooms come with both
a standard bathroom and a second one containing a jacuzzi,
while we prefer staying in the larger studio apartments. Q 15
rooms & apartments 15-40 per person. ALKW
Odissey A-4, Jadranski Put bb, tel. +382 33 46 37 07/+382
69 22 23 37, fax +382 33 46 37 09, info@hotelodisey.
com, www.hotelodisey.com. A palatial modern structure, the
Odisey (or Odissey as it is also sometimes spelled) looks oddly
out of place on a thoroughly unexciting stretch of road leading
from Budva to the airport. We spent a not insignificant amount
of time trying to think of advantages to staying here rather than
somewhere in or at least closer to the city, but this proved more
difficult than we had imagined - which is not to say that the rooms
are not spectacular or undercut the merits of having a casino on
the premises. Q 18 rooms (doubles 70 in July and Aug, 50-60
from Sept - June). ALBKW
Oliva E-2, Velji Vinogradi bb, tel. +382 33 45 94 29.
Dont come here expecting anything that could be properl y
described with the word modern, but this is a homey hotel
if there every was one, as the proprietor Branko will go out
of his way to make guests feel like at home. The expansive
terrace out back is shaded by some perfectl y mangled old
olive trees, and is the best setting to sample some of the
restaurants fine traditional cuisine. Rooms vary quite a bit,
so make sure to ask whats available. Q 15 rooms (doubles
70 in Jul y and Aug, 58 in June and Sept). LKW
Regina Elena E-3, 29th Novembra 20, tel. +382 33 45
92 55/+382 68 11 77 77, hotelreginaelena1@gmail.com,
www.reginaelena.me. One of the most underrated hotels in
Budva, the Regina Elena has won our affection by virtue of its
high ceilings (which we love), a large rooftop terrace and bar
(where you can take your breakfast) and the crme de la crme:
a small swimming pool on an even higher section of the roof,
from where you can take in glorious views of the city, work on
your tan, enjoy a cold beer and stay cool in the pool - all at the
same time! And all this within easy walking distance of the
beach for only 30 per person in the high season. Q 32 rooms
(singles 40, doubles 60, in July and August, 22-40, 30-50
from Sept - June), apartments (triples 95, quads 120 in July
and Aug, 45-75, 48-90 from Sept - June). AKCW
ajo E-3, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 46 02 43/+382
33 46 02 45, fax +381 33 46 02 46, sajohotel@t-com.
me, www.sajohotel.com. A modern business-class hotel
with reasonable prices, ajo wouldnt be our first choice of
accommodation in Budva, but you could do a lot worse. On the
other hand, if you need a large conference room theres one
here on the top floor thats recently been renovated. For those
that appreciate having some extra space to stretch out, the
apartments are a great value for only 10 more than standard
doubles. When booking any room, make sure to request a sea
view, as theres no extra charge. Q 18 rooms (singles 113,
doubles 142-152 in July and August, 77-106, 96-132 from
Sept - June), 8 apartments 81 in Jul y and Aug, 58-71 from
Sept - June per person. PHFLGKDCW
Hostels
Camp Tipi Hostel A-4, Lastva Grabaljska, tel. +382
69 55 48 27, camptipihostel@gmail.com, www.camp-
tipihostel.com. Set in the grassy hills above the main road
Budva-Tivat road and onl y 3km from the famed Jaz Beach,
compared with the rest of the accommodation in and around
Budva this camp (which also includes basic hostel accom-
modation) is in the middle of nowhere. Of course this is the
main draw for guests, who come here to escape city life and
explore a bit of the wild Montenegrin countryside. The afore-
mentioned beach has some of the best swimming conditions
on the coast, and the hospitable owner Ivo and his staff are
more than happy to help with any arrangements you need.
Onl y open from June till August.
Mojo Budva C-3, Vojvoanska 3, tel. +382 69 71 19
86, info@mojobudva.com, www.mojobudva.com. A hybrid
hostel/budget hotel, solo travellers can book singles beds in
the triple and 4-bed rooms, but it seems most guests come
here for cheap private accommodation. If you are looking to
socialise, theres lots of communal space here, including a sun
terrace, barbecue pit, inside lounge area and our favourite a
hammock garden. Its located very near to the massive new
TQ Plaza shopping centre, but still seems to give some people
fits finding it - check the map carefull y when booking.
Montenegro Hostel Budva B-4, Vuka Karadia 12, Stari
grad, tel. +382 69 03 97 51, montenegrohostel@gmail.
com, www.montenegrohostel.com. Having opened the first
proper hostels in Kotor, Podgorica and also here in Budva, the
owners of this place know a thing or two about operating high
quality backpacker and budget friendly accommodation. The
location in the very centre of the old town couldnt be better, and
the all of the extras - including a huge common room on the top
floor - give this place an edge over the competition. The en suite
private rooms in a nearby building are some of the best value
beds in Budva, and also let you take advantage of all the facilities
and services in the main building. Q 5 rooms (1 double 30-50,
1 triple 45-60, dorm beds 12-20). W
Sun Hostel E-2, Ferona bb, tel. +382 69 76 92 12,
budva.sunhostels@gmail.com, www.sunhostels.com.
While we were first tempted to say that this wasnt reall y
a hostel in our book due to a lack of dorms - single, double
and triple rooms are all they have - we humbl y had to change
our minds after finding a preponderance of evidence to the
contrary. Aside from its Hostelling International membership,
the large kitchen and common room, and the fact that you can
book single beds in the triple rooms, the overall vibe here is
decidedl y backpacker-oriented. A bit tricky to find if you dont
know the town, its not as inconvenient as it first seems once
youre familiar with the surroundings. Q 24 rooms (singles
15-40, doubles 20-44, triples 27-60).
Apartments
Alexandra E-2, 20 Novembra bb, tel. +382 67 25 74
06/+382 67 24 10 00, appalexandra@gmail.com, www.
apartmani-alexandra.com. Set within a stones throw of
some great local grill restaurants, in the middle of Budvas
so-called Hotel Street, the nine studio apartments and
one larger unit that sleeps up to eight people are basic but
adequate for your typical beach holiday. All apartments come
with a kitchen, air conditioning and a small cable TV, and must
be rented for a minimum of one week during the peak of high
season (ie 1 Jul y - 20 August). Q 10 apartments (40-145
in Jul y and Aug, 25-85 from Sept - May). L
Bella B-4, Vrzdak 3, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 24
39/+382 67 40 39 40. Four medium-sized apartments
situated in a beautifully restored building just off a leafy green
square in the old town. The most pleasant aspect has to be
the cosy little terraces that are perfect for a morning coffee or
an evening drink (although the lack of a kitchen definitely makes
the former more difficult). Early birds and light sleepers may
find the late night parties at the open air bars just outside the
walls a minor inconvenience during the high season. Q 4 apart-
ments (60-90 in July & August, 40-60 September - June).
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
24
WHERE TO STAY

tourist service
Cetinjski put bb | 81000 Podgorica
Tel./Fax: 00382 20 511 200
smjestaj, izleti, rent a car, festivali,
Hoteli
Privatni
smjetaj
Charter
Rent a car
Izleti
Butua B-2, Nikole Tesle 11, tel. +382 33 40 20 26/+382
33 40 20 27, www.apartmanibutua.com. When it was
founded by an exiled Phoenician prince and his wife some
2500 years ago it was called Butua, from which both the
modern name is derived. However, the name is the onl y thing
not modern about Batua Apartments. Set in the middle of
the city, the modern five-floor complex contains spacious
apartments, as well as single, double and triple rooms. In
addition to all the standard amenities and excellent profes-
sional service, it is the onl y building in Budva that is officiall y
registered as completel y accessible for physicall y disabled
persons. Q ULW
Captain D-2, 13. Jula bb, tel. +382 67 58 75 87. Right in
the city centre but still (mostly) surrounded by greenery, these
apartments score highly for their convenient location, cleanli-
ness and personal attentive staff and managers - al though
if you are staying out of season you should arrange an exact
check-in time in advance, as the place is not full staffed. The
rooms also range from tiny to extremely spacious, so choose
carefull y when booking.
Contessa B-2, Maksima gorkog bb, tel. +382 33 45 12
63/+382 68 86 87 77, www.contessabudva.me. Another
excellent example of how apartments should be designed,
furnished and operated. Located slightly up the hill to the west
of downtown, the views are magnificent, the furnishings are
of reasonabl y high quality and unobtrusive and the prices
some of the best around. The building is also stunning from
the outside and has a couple of large common terraces that
are great for socialising at breakfast time or in the evening.
Q 10 apartments (48-86 in Jul y & August, 35-59 in June
& September, 25-50 October - May). Prices 30% higher if
staying less than 3 nights. PAL
daMonte B-2, Topliki put bb, tel. +382 33 40 30
64/+382 67 66 96 85, apartmani@damonte.me, www.
damonte.me. The apartments here are like a breath of fresh
air - quite literall y as theyre set at the base of the hill to the
northwest of the city centre - when compared to many of
the others in town that were blatantl y just thrown together
to make a quick profit. Al though the website doesnt boast
of spacious, luxurious rooms (as many of their competitors
falsel y do), both terms appl y here in spades. In short, this
family-run property is easily one of the better accommodation
options in Budva. W
Invest Montenegro B-2, Topliki Put bb, tel. +382 33
45 56 42/+382 69 36 68 76, office@investmontene-
gro.com, www.investmontenegro.com. Wi th dozens of
apartments and other properties for both holiday and longer
term rental in Budva and elsewhere along Montenegros
breathtaking Medi terranean coast, Invest Montenegro is
sure to have something for every budget and taste. Their
rental units are careful selected to provide quality and value
for money, thoroughl y cleaned and serviced prior to your ar-
rival. As their name suggests, these are also the people to
talk to if youre interested in investing in property anywhere
in the country.
Lux B-4, Vuka Karadia 1, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45
43 54/+382 69 03 94 38, melita@t-com.me, www.
luxapartman.com. This will probabl y sound a lot worse
than we intend it to, but whoever chose the name of this
place has a different understanding of the words lux, luxury
and luxurious than we do, as none of those terms came to
mind when we saw the place. On the plus side, the location
just inside the old town walls is great, and the views of the
harbour from the balcony of the second floor apartment are
a boat-lovers dream.
Pima B-2, Preernova 3, tel. +382 67 55 83 24, www.
pima.me. Offering both rooms and apartments, as well as
friendl y personal service both at check in and during your
stay, this place reall y has the feel of a famil y-run hotel or
guesthouse. Theres a pleasant enclosed garden in the back,
with citrus trees and plenty of tables to sit at and relax in the
shade. Book one of the two apartments upstairs (suitable for
four or more people) if youd like a terrace with a sea view.
Saki F-2, IV Proleterske bb, tel. +382 33 45 85
65/+382 67 36 80 65, sakiadrovic@yahoo.com, www.
saki-apartmani.com. Located in the far north of town in the
Lazi district, the premises include 14 apartments that sleep
between two and six people in a modern four-floor building.
The owner and host, Saki Androvi, is a friendl y fellow that
goes out of his way to make guests feel welcome and can
arrange pretty much any activity or trip that youre interested
in - especially if it involves a trip on his fishing boat. The beach
is only a 10 minute or so walk downhill, and a taxi back should
onl y cost a few euros. If you decide to spend the evening in to
play billiard, table tennis or just relax in the courtyard, dinner
can be arranged for onl y 5 per person. Q 14 apartments
(25-90). LW
Salus B-2, Nikole Tesle 13, tel. +382 33 45 18 43/+382
69 22 16 21, salus@t-com.me, www.apartmanisalus.
me. Salus offers a combination of full y-furnished rooms and
apartments right in the heart of the city centre, some of which
even have sea views. Each of the apartments has its own
kitchen, and the larger 3-bedroom units can comfortably sleep
up to nine people. While Budva is by no means a dangerous
town, the building is under video surveillance for added se-
curity, and in case of water shortages it has its own reserve
suppl y. Q 27 rooms and apartments. LW
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
26
WHERE TO STAY
2012 budva.inyourpocket.com
27
RESTAURANTS
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
O Casino M Nearest station
R Internet 6 Animal friendl y
V Home Delivery
Symbol key
Bogdanovi B-4, Petra I Petrovia 1, Stari grad,
tel. +382 69 61 05 32/+381 63 7 64 19 11, mabra-
movic@live.com. W
Bojana C-1, Prve Proleterske 15, tel. +382 33 45
66 68/+382 67 25 12 44, vilabojana@yahoo.com,
www.vila-bojana.com. Q 36-38 in July and August,
28-30 from September-May. LKCW
Bujkovi D-2, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 29
29/+382 67 25 74 09, altada@t-com.me. L
Kovaevi D/E-3, Velji Vinogradi bb, tel. +382 33 45
86 42/+382 67 33 19 68, sandjok@t-com.me. L
Mikovi B-2, Svetostefanska 1, tel. +382 33 45 28
00/+382 67 81 36 88, jelena452800@yahoo.com,
www.vilamikovic.com. L
Oregon D/E-3, Velji Vinogradi bb, tel. +382 33 45
86 02/+382 69 60 47 08, www.oregon.montene-
gro.com.
Perovi E-2, Velji Vinogradi bb, tel. +382 69 36 92
15, vilaperovic@gmail.com. LCW
Stevi E-1, Mainski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 90
49/+382 69 65 06 71, astevic10@yahoo.com. L
Sui B-3, 13. Jula 9, tel. +382 33 45 29 62/+382
69 59 64 28, sssudjic@t-com.me. LW
Svetionik J-2, Rafailovii bb, tel. +382 33 40 40
32/+382 69 60 83 08, info@apartmanisvetionik.com,
www.apartmanisvetionik.com. Q Apartments 100-
120 in July and Aug, 40-80 from Sept - May. ALW
Tatjana D-2, Mainski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 72
81/+382 69 48 80 77, info@hoteltatjana.com,
www.hoteltatjana.com. Q 34 apartments, 15-20
per person. LCW
Tomy D-2, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 32
88/+382 67 85 24 42, vilatomy@t-com.me. LW
Velon D-2, Mainski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 45
00/+382 69 32 32 34, vilavelzon@live.com. LW
Vila Balkan B-4, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 40 35
64, info@vilabalkan.me, www.vilabalkan.me. Q 5
apartments. W
Villa Centar D-2, Mainski put 9, tel. +382 33 45
45 19/+382 69 54 94 88, www.vilacentar.com. 9
rooms and apartments. LW
Private apartments
Vidikovac A-4, Vidikovac bb, tel. +382 33 45 18
56/+382 69 17 28 37, vidikovac@mail.ru, www.
vidikovac. me. Al though we genuinel y try to avoid hyperbole
and unnecessaril y inflating expectations whenever possible,
its without hesitation that we implore you to stop what youre
doing right now and book a room here - even if you dont have
tickets to Montenegro yet, a stay here alone is worth a trip to
Budva. Elegantl y designed rooms, unbeatable views of the
old town from large terraces, and free use of the swimming
pool, jacuzzi and sauna, all at prices that would still be a good
value if they were twice as high, set Vidikovac apart from its
peers. Q 21 apartments (doubles 85, triples 105, quads
125 in Jul y and Aug, 40-65, 45-80, 50-105 from Sept -
May). LDCW
Vila Spas A-4, Vidikovac bb, tel. +382 67 21 17 71,
vilaspas.com@gmail.com, www.vilaspas.com. Perched
on the hill overlooking Mogren Beach just off the road leading
into Budva from the west, the apartments in this beautiful
stone villa are a great value for those who dont mind driving
or catching a taxi into the centre. Minimall y furnished with a
touch of opulence here and there, while taking in the expansive
sea views from the large terrace youll feel like royal ty - or at
least we did. Q 9 apartments (85 from 15 June - 15 Sept,
70 during low season). PTLW
For an highl y developed resort town, Budva has a
surprising amount of green space, photo by B. Jovanovi
Adriatic B-3, Mediteranska 23, tel. +382 33 45 18 02.
Set a bit away from the action on the promenade but unfor-
tunatel y not away from the traffic, Adriatica boasts a large
terrace and an even larger selection of pizzas. The menu offers
up choices of pasta, fish and meat dishes as well, but the
pizzas are the main draw here, which you can also take away
or have delivered. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. ABW
Astoria B-4, Njegoeva 3, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45
11 10, www.astoriamontenegro.com. A trendy restaurant
situated in, and on top of, the hotel of the same name, if the
breathtaking view of the sea and old town from the rooftop
terrace is what brings people here for the first time, its the
impeccabl y prepared and presented cuisine that keeps
them coming back again and again. The very wide-ranging
selection of main dishes (from Indonesian and Thai options
to Medi terranean and Montenegrin to a gourmet take an
classic fish and chips) is complimented by some delectable
starters, absolutel y heavenl y desserts and a lengthy wine
list. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. ABW
Babaluu C-3, Mediteranska bb (TQ Plaza), tel. +382 69
04 04 40, babaluubd@gmail.com. All other factors aside,
this is easil y the most interesting place we have ever ordered
pasta. The menu contains an impressive matrix of different
ingredients and spices, encouraging diners to choose their
own combinations. Of course there are also suggestions for
those not feeling up to the pressure. Located on the ground
floor of the new TQ Centre, Babaluu also serves as a popular
caf-cum-trendy bar. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. ALBW
Bruno A-4, Mediteranska 2, tel. +382 33 44 13 98,
bruno@avalaresort.com, www.avalaresort.com. The
newly opened restaurant at Avala Resort & Villas has already
earned its place on any credible shortlist of the best restau-
rants in Montenegro - and would reside near the top if we had
any say in the matter. Approaching perfection in every aspect of
the dining experience, Bruno offers superlative cuisine, service
and ambience. We usually opt for one of the daily specials and
matching wines, as it saves us from having to choose from so
many tempting seasonal dishes on the la carte menu, but by
all means have a go if you feel up for it. ALW
City Club C-3, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 33 45 24
46/+382 67 20 32 53, cityclub@hotmail.com. Located
opposi te TQ Plaza and one of the ci tys main taxi ranks
[Editors note: see the Getting Around section for our tips
on how not to get ripped off by Budvas taxi drivers], this
place bakes some half-decent pizza, but the real draw here
is the large terrace where diners can take in the various
happenings at the busy crossroads. They also offer nargilas
(aka water pipes or hookahs), for those looking to puff on
some sweet tasting tobacco after (or in lieu of) their meal.
Q Open: 07:00-02:00 from June-August, 07:00-01:00 from
September-May. ABW
D & R E-4, Jadranski put bb. If youre staying in the east
part of the city and looking for a cheaper al ternative to the
waterfront establishments, head to the roundabout leading
out of town towards Beii. Of the handful of places situated
there, D & R seems the most popular or is at least the larg-
est. Settle into the softl y lit cavernous interior or choose
a roadside table on the sprawling terrace. In the summer,
the smells from the open grill can be hard to resist. QOpen
07:00 - 02:00. LBW
Dona Kod Nikole B-3, Gradska Marina, tel. +381 33
45 15 31. A little sea-worn and rough around the edges,
this place never seems to attract the same kind of crowds
that a couple of its neighbours do. However, we find it to be
squarel y on the good side of charming, and have al ways
been a bit put off by elbow room onl y situations. As for the
food, you can do (much) worse elsewhere, but with so many
similar restaurants vying for your euros it reall y does often
come down to how you feel about the atmosphere. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. AB
Fratello E-3, 29. Novembra bb, tel. +382 (0)68 20 30
78 The hands down winner of our unofficial Restaurant
that is so good we eat there all the time but still feel a little
guil ty writing about it because then it wont be our secret
anymore Award is the unassuming shack called Fratello
next to a carwash on the main ring road. Simple, tasty and
inexpensive grilled dishes coupled with friendl y service and
an owner who makes patrons satisfaction his personal busi-
ness, adds up to an experience that is hard to beat. Theres
even a covered terrace down the stairs in the back. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. VBS
If your table were any closer to the sea, youd be getting
wet!
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
28
RESTAURANTS
Garden Caffe B-3, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 33 45
20 90/+382 67 59 06 59, rvadjon@t-com.me, www.
garden-budva.com. Low prices, good pizza, cold beer and
li ve music - whats not to like? The superb setting under the
trees is probabl y the biggest draw, which by your second
drink will have you forgetting that youre onl y a minutes walk
from both the beach and old town. The music is a bi t more
mellow during the day, but usuall y swi tches over to rock in
the evenings, attracting a crowd more interested in beer
than pizza. I f youre up earl y they also do fine breakfasts,
and discounts are offered on Sundays. QOpen 07:30 -
01:00. AEBW
Grill Bata Lim E-4, Slovenska obala bb, tel. +382
69 02 39 57/+382 69 08 47 36. Another fine beach-
side dining option along wi th i ts twin next-door neighbour
Pi vnica Nik Gold (which shares south wing of the same
building), grill is qui te li terall y the name of the game here,
as evidenced by the large open-air barbecue on the ter-
race. Come straight from the beach or after a long day of
sightseeing, but just make sure to come hungry. QOpen
07:00 - 02:00. ABW
Hemingway B-4, Slovenska Obala 11, tel. +382 33 45
24 00. Named for one of our favouri te personali ties, i f not
wri ters, of the 20th century, this caf restaurant just outside
the old town already had our favour before we ever saw
the place, but luckil y theres a lot to like here. The terrace
is a pleasant place to enjoy breakfast in the morning or a
drink in the evening (preferabl y a daiquiri), and the menu is
reassuringl y to the point - wi th chicken in dill sauce and chili
beef being two of the standouts. For a bi t of historical ki tsch,
look up for the photo of El Papa greeting a young upstart
Cuban poli tician called Fidel Castro. Q Open June-Sept
08:00-01:00, Oct-May 08:00-23:00. ABW
Hong Kong B-4, Vuka Karadia 1, Stari grad, tel.
+382 33 45 27 25. Amazingl y, this Chinese restaurant
started operating in Budva wi th staff from Hong Kong back
in 1991, and i t still happil y serves food that is as authentic
as i t gets in the Balkans. Wi th a terrace beneath the vines
and overlooked by the ci ty walls, i ts a good place for hun-
gry tourists to try the stir-fries, noodles and more. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. ABS
Jadran B-3, Slovenska Obala 10, tel. +382 33 45 10
28/+382 69 03 01 80. Wi th all the competi tion around
i t should say something that this place consistentl y ranks
as or among the best restaurants around, but that said,
dont blame us i f you find that your expectations were too
high. Other than the reputation, wed be hard-pressed to tell
you what exactl y i t is that sets this place apart. The fish is
fresh, the service professional and prompt and the ambience
that of your classic seaside restaurant. We guess theres
something to be said for knowing the basics and doing them
well. Q Open June-August 08:00-01:00, September-May
08:00-01:00. ABW
Juice Bar B-4, Vranjak 13, Stai grad, tel. +382 33
45 70 23, juicebar@juicebar.me, www.juicebar.me.
Perhaps i ts the bright orange polo shirts that the staff
wear as well as the matching seat cushions and logotype,
but this place makes us feel heal thier just thinking about
i t. The menu is comprised of a dozen of so di fferent frui t
smoothies, fresh meal-size salads and some other light
snacks, which can be enjoyed in the small (but heavil y traf-
ficked by pedestrians) square outside the Budva Museum
in the old town. They also make all of their own products,
including some absolutel y delicious sun-dried tomato bread.
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. ABW
PORTO MONTENEGRO
ONE
The perfect place for lounging over cocktails
with spectacular views at the foot of Jetty
One with the private dining area and wine
tasting room. Porto Montenegro Village -
Teuta, Tivat, jettyone.com, tel.: +382 (32)
661 035.
AL POSTO GIUSTO
Classic Adriatic Mediterranean cuisine with
contemporary dcor and wood-fired oven
Porto Montenegro Village - Ozana, Tivat, har-
monyoftaste.com, tel.: +382 (0) 69 146 046
MITSU SUSHI RESTAURANT
Authentic Japanese cuisine and sushi
Porto Montenegro Village - Milena, http://
www.facebook.com/mitsurestaurant, tel.:
067626973
www.inyourpocket.com
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
30
RESTAURANTS
2012 budva.inyourpocket.com
31
RESTAURANTS
Konoba Demiana B-4, Slovenska Obala 3, tel. +382
33 45 50 28. If the seemingl y countless restaurants along
Budvas promenade strike you as being much of a muchness
(an impression that would not be entirel y unwarranted), rest
assured that this inconspicuous konoba hidden behind a leafy
terrace is not onl y a cut above the others, but also generall y
considered one of the better restaurants on the coast - which
explains why mini-motorcades of diplomatic vehicles from
Podgorica parked outside are not an uncommon sight. Aside
from the ambience, exquisitel y prepared fish and seafood is
what attracts the refined masses here, and reservations are
all but required. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. AB
Konoba Feral B-4, Trg palmi bb, Stari Grad, tel. +382
69 56 02 32. This unpretentious place in the old town
offers a an excellent selection of fish and seafood dishes
in a homey atmosphere. Inside the walls are covered with
antique bric-a-brac and an eclectic collection of modern art
(which is all for sale, with the proceeds going to the Orthodox
church), while during the summer months the terrace outside
is completel y immersed under a sea of ivy and fishnets. A
sign at the door lists the specials of the day. QOpen 11:00
- 01:00. ABW
Konoba Galeb B-4, Vrzdak 11, Stari grad, tel. +382 33
45 65 46/+382 69 03 79 48. Were not sure how much it
helps customers with their selection, but we were quite fond
of the poster by the door depicting all of the fish from the
Adriatic. Opened in 1966, Galeb is one of the best known
restaurants in the old town, and a top choice for lovers of all
food originating from the aforementioned sea. The 1st floor
terrace offers some much appreciated breathing room from
the bustling foot traffic on the street below, while the down-
stairs dining area has its own ambience below the low wooden
beam ceiling. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. ABW
Konoba Knez B-4, Stari Grad, tel. +382 69 47 50
25/+382 68 04 06 05. A bit on the eccentric side and all
the better for it, this is your classic one-man band type of
establishment, where the owner will welcome you as if youre
an old friend and then prepare you a traditional home-cooked
meal at the partiall y open-kitchen - all the while pl ying you
with local beer and schnapps. By the time you leave youll feel
like a member of the family. However, reservations are recom-
mended, as there are a total of six tables - three inside and
three outside in a small arched passageway. Q Open: June-
August 12:00-01:00, September-May 12:00-23:00 AB
Konoba Stari Grad B-4, Njegoeva bb, Stari Grad, tel.
+382 63 22 54 03, info@konobastarigrad.me, www.
konobastarigrad.me. An al together classier affair than
most everything else in the old town (and the rest of Budva
for that matter), theres a lot to like here: low wooden ceilings,
exposed brick walls and black and photos of old Budva on the
walls, the ambience reall y cant be beat - they also have a
covered terrace on the beach if youd like to eat outside. The
menu weighs more than our laptop, and all that girth is put
to good use, with many seafood specialities that you wont
see elsewhere. And to top it all off theres live music every
night. All in all, one of our favourites. Q Open June-August
11:00-00:00, September-May 11:00-23:00. AW
Kuina E-2, rtava faizma bb, tel. +382 33 45 94
80/+382 68 66 66 93, kuzinabudva@gmail.com. With food
this good, Kuina knew that it could open a restaurant well out-
side the tourist centre of the town and still have patrons make
the effort to find the place - ample free parking always helps
of course. Like its counterpart in the capital, Kuina combines
traditional cuisine and aesthetics (wooden bench seating with
red and white checkered tablecloths) with modern design and
excellent service. Grab a seat on one of their two terraces and
enjoy a draught Nikiko while your selection of meat is grilled a
few metres away. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. ALB
La Bocca D-3, Slovenska Obala bb, tel. +382 33 45
14 23, www.astoriamontenegro.com. Onl y just opened
as we were preparing the guide for print, the earl y reviews
have been roundl y favourabl e and i t looks likel y that La
Bocca will become one of the dining options of choi ce on
this part of the beach. None of this should come as any
surprise, as the owners are the same team behind the
Hotel Astoria and i ts fabulous restaurant in the old town.
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. ABW
Lord E-3, 29. Novembra 10, tel. +382 69 33 14 02. Far
removed from the action along the waterfront, we happened
upon this nondescript (and bizarrel y named) place entirel y
by chance several years ago, but have been coming here
ever since. The owner Vule, an exceedingl y sociable native
of Podgorica who has spent some three decades in the res-
taurant business, may not speak much English, but makes
himself known regardless (often with the help of some com-
plimentary homemade rakija). The house speciality is slow
roasting full pigs, sheep and seemingly anything else with four
legs - groups should order their animal of choice one day in
advance, and Vule will collect it from a local farmer. A highl y
recommendable experience. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. A
Mona Lisa B-4, Trg Palmi bb, Stari Grad, tel. +382
69 33 13 27. Modern, dark and moody wi th a coupl e of
dour Mona Lisa portrai ts watching over the place, i t took
us a whil e to fi gure out i f i t was a caf, bar or restaurant
- mainl y because i ts all three. Come wi th your laptop dur-
ing the day for coffee and free WiFi, peruse the l engthy
menu around dinner time, or drop by at ni ght for a few
drinks on the large covered terrace outside. Al ternati vel y,
theres a breakfast menu, drinks are served all day and
the WiFi is still free at ni ght - you get the idea. QOpen
09:00 - 00:00. ABW
Bocconcino B-4, Stari grad. Of all the takeaway pizza
places in the old town, this is probably our favourite - al-
though we cant decide if thats despite or because of its
goofy sunglasses wearing cartoon pizza logo. Serving up
slices from huge 50cm thin crusts pies as well as tasty flat
bread sandwiches that are also toasted in the pizza oven,
rest assured that your 2 will be well-spent here. QOpen
08:00 - 01:00.
Maradona 10 B-4, Stari grad. Taking its name from a
stout Argentinian footballer who scored his most famous
goal with his hand [editors note: yes, the writer is an un-
abashed Pele supporter], our instinct was to be highly criti-
cal of this place and make at least one joke that included
the word cocaine, but you could do worse than the pizza
slices, sandwiches, and sweet and savoury crepes on
offer here - especially if youve spent the night drinking at
nearby Casper Republica. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
Promenade Food Stalls C-3, Slovenska obala. If
youre not cooking for yourself, by far the cheapest place
to fill up your stomach in Budva is at one of the many fast
food stands that congregate on the promenade between
the post office and the beach. Burgers, burek, pizza and
kebaps (or gyros as theyre called) are the standard fare
of choice, and most also do sweet crepes for dessert. An
even better way to satisfy your sweet tooth during the
summer, is at one of the nearby ice cream stands.
Fast Food
Oaza B-3, Slovenska obala 27, tel. +382 33 45 22
15/+382 69 02 47 56, oazabudva@t-com.me, www.
oaza.co.me. Set amongst a l eafy patch of trees and
small canal a hundred metres or so from the beach, this
place indeed feels like an oasis. A famil y-run establish-
ment wi th decades of experience, the servi ce is friendl y
and personabl e, wi th a menu focussed on fish and other
seafood. I ts a popular venue for locals to gather for fam-
il y reunions, receptions and other cel ebrations - whi ch is
al ways a good si gn - and in the summer they set up a grill
outside. Try the homemade ice cream for dessert. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00. ABW
Obala J-2, Beika plaa 25, Rafailovii, tel. +382
33 47 10 45/+386 33 47 10 54, www.hotelobala.
me. One of several restaurants along the pedestrian-onl y
promenade in Rafailovii, i ts a fine place to grab a bi te
close to the beach - especiall y i f you manage to get a table
outside in the shade under a large pine tree. For those
watching their wall et, they even offer very budget-friendl y
set lunch and dinner specials from onl y 5. The owners
also have a hal f-dozen or so di fferent accommodati on
options in the area, including a decent hotel above the
restaurant. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. ABW
Old Fishermans Pub B-4, Slovenska Obala bb, tel.
+382 69 48 24 25. Call ed the Old Fishermans Pub for
a reason, as you can find patrons inside lingering over a
pint at most times of the day, i ts also a full restaurant
that specialises in pizzas and grill ed meat dishes - wi th
the latter prepared in front of you on the terrace, much to
the the deli ght of your eyes and nose. You cant miss the
bri ghtl y painted tabl es and benches on the terrace at the
corner of the harbour just outside the old town. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. ABW
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
32
RESTAURANTS
2012 budva.inyourpocket.com
33
RESTAURANTS
Olimp B-3, Slovenska Beach, tel. +382 33 45 16
29/+382 69 33 35 95, olimpia-r@t-com.me, www.
en.restoranolimp-budva.com. If its not the newest of the
clutch of restaurants along the promenade between the
beach and old town, it at least looks to be. Theres plenty of
seating arranged around a pleasant garden, but we prefer to
sit at one of the tables along the rocky shore just centimetres
from the water. The menu is more limited than most, with lots
of seafood and a few grilled meat dishes to choose from, but
we find this an advantage rather than the opposite. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. ABW
O Sole Mio B-3/4, Slovenska obala bb, tel. +382 69 89 14
04. Its popularity is largely inexplicable to us, but what do we know?
Its not like we write travel guides for a living - oh, wait.... We do admit
that the pizzas are some of the biggest around, although they are
priced accordingly, and if you need seating for three-hundred people
or more at short notice this may be your best bet. On the plus side,
it is a fine place for a drink and some people watching during the
evenings. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. AVBW
Pablo Picasso B-4, Slovenska obala 13, tel. +382 21 88
38. Formerly located inside the old town, Picassos new home
is on the Slovenska Obala just after Hemingway - why this small
stretch of pavement in Budva attracts such famous names, were
honestly not sure. The pizzas and sandwiches here come quite
highly recommended by locals, but it seems unforgiveable that
of all the paintings on the walls, none looked to be by the famous
Spaniard. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. AB
Parma E-1, Mainski put 70, tel. +382 67 57 37 33, parma.
dapcevic@gmail.com. We only found this place after dropping
off our car for service at the garage next door, which almost made
up for the 60 we paid for a new spare tyre. Most likely the cheap-
est grill in town, if you know of anywhere that beats Parmas 750g
mixed plate for only 7.90 drop us a line. They also have at least
one friendly English-speaking waiter, and if youre staying in they
have reliable delivery. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. AB
Perla B-3, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 68 80 80 80,
info@perlabudva.com, www.perlabudva.com. Definitel y
one of Budvas top destinations for the stylish jet set since its
auspicious opening on New Years Eve 2009, in addition to be
a popular lounge bar and concert venue on two levels, theres
also a vastly underrated kitchen that turns out a mouthwater-
ing selection of gourmet international and Montenegrin dishes.
The curved wooden and glass faade is impossible to miss at
the roundabout just outside the promenades main entrance.
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. ABW
Pivnica Nik Gold D/E-4, Slovenska Obala bb, tel. +382
68 50 77 02, restoran.pivnica.nikgold@gmail.com, www.
pivnicanikgold.me. Perhaps our favourite of Budvas beachside
restaurants, although we couldnt find the phrase anywhere on
the menu this is a classic surf n turf joint if there ever was one,
with a menu so heavy it could easily be used to club a fish or put
down a cow - not that such a need would ever arise. While its the
kind of establishment where youll feel comfortable dining in your
swimwear, be aware that this will make it more difficult to hide
the inevitable bulge youll have after finishing your meal. QOpen
08:00 - 01:00. 8-25. ABW
Pizzeria Lav B-4, Iva Mikovia 16, Stari grad, tel. +382 68
53 20 02. Hidden down a tiny alleyway around the corner from the
main entrance to the old town, while the pizzas are better than youd
be led to believe from the weather-worn sign out front, the same
signs proclamation that they are the best pizza in the city is also
probably a bit of a stretch. A seating area in the back in covered by
a roof of blue plastic sheeting, which will keeps you dry and cool, but
also adds some eerie lighting. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
34
RESTAURANTS
2012 budva.inyourpocket.com
35
RESTAURANTS
Porto B-4, Slovenska obala, tel. +382 68 12 13
14/+382 69 02 58 50, www.restoranporto.com. Of
all the waterfront restaurants along the harbour (and there
are many), Porto is easil y the most popular, wi th a steady
stream of customers even in the low season and nary a
free table during summer months. The menu doesnt offer
any surprises, but everything i t includes is well-prepared,
the prices are reasonable, the wine list extensi ve and the
service generall y gets high marks. Sometimes following
the crowds can lead unsuspecting visi tors astray, but that
is fortunatel y not the case here. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00.
AB
Porto Pizana B-4, Marina Budva, tel. +382 68 71 88
38, restoran.pizana@gmail.com. Wi th an unbeatabl e
location overlooking the yachts in the harbour and serious-
looking wooden exterior, ones first impression of this place
is likel y to be of an upscale formal dining experience. While
we cant say that this is entirel y incorrect, it does have a
quirky edge to it, with dcor that includes lamps shaped like
women, snakeskin embellishments, faux Greek sculptures
and mul ti-coloured chandeliers. Of course at the end of the
day its the food that counts, and everything here is excellent,
with one of the most extensive menus in Budva. QOpen
08:00 - 01:00. ABW
Rabello E-3, Podkoljun bb, tel. +382 67 35 55 55.
This jack of all trades may not excel at any one thing, but its
location on one of the towns busier roundabouts gives you
a front row seat to witness Montenegrin driving etiquette
in all its glory. The menu contains pizza, pasta and other
standard international fare, but we recommend stopping
by in the morning for breakfast or the evening for an earl y
drink. Q Open June-August 07:00-01:00, September-May
07:00-24:00. ABW
Aleksandar J-2, Beika plaa, Rafailovii, tel. +382
33 47 15 55/+382 67 60 02 17, restoranaleksandar.
klikovac@t-com.me. With the opening of Aleksandar to
start the 2012 season, the waterfront in Rafailovii finally
has an exquisite 5-star restaurant to call its own. While
seated at the bright airy terrace, you can practically feel the
waves of the Mediterranean crashing before you, and the
ambience of the seaside setting carries over into the so-
phisticated menu as well, which is of course complimented
by one of the most complete wine lists on the coast. All
in all Aleksandar offer elegant dining that few others can
match. QOpen 11:00 - 00:00. ABW
Tri Ribara J-2, Beika 37, Rafailovii, tel. +382 33
47 10 50, 3ribara@t-com.me, www.triribara.com. The
owners families personally catch the fish served in this
famed local seafood restaurant. For over 30 years the
rustic Three Fishermen, in a basic space decorated with
seafaring memorabilia, has been a much loved destination
for people across the country. The family also runs the La
Mirage caf by the beach. A little out of the way in the fish-
ing village of Rafailovii, at the far end of Beii beach, but
well worth the trip. Q Open June-September 12:00-24:00,
October-May 12:00-23:00. GB
Around Budva
Sambra B-4, Trg Palmi, Iva Mikovia 10, Stari grad, tel.
+382 33 45 13 08, sambra@t-com.me, www.pizzeriasam-
bra.com. Another restaurant that claims to have the best pizza
in town, while we can neither deny nor confirm this assertion,
the place does have a charming little terrace located on the
aptly named Palm Square. Opened in 1989, its also officially the
longest running Italian restaurant in Budva, with pizza compris-
ing only a small percentage of its vast offering, which ranges from
pasta and speciality salads to a handful of traditional dishes and
some breakfast options. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. AB
San Marino B-3, Slovenska obala 21, tel. +382 33 45
29 60. Were not sure if this place is technically named after
the tiny European city state, but at peak hours it may have
just about as many people. We exaggerate only slightly as the
terrace does have room for some 150 patrons (with another
80 seats inside), many of whom come for the live music. Italian
and Mediterranean standards populate the menu here, and over
the years weve grown quite fond of the seafood paella for two.
Q Open: 08:00-01:00 from June-August, 09:00-23:00 from
September-May. AB
Shanghai B-4, Stari grad, tel. +382 63 22 54 01, www.
kineskirestoran.me. If youre looking for a break from the heap-
ing platters of grilled meat and fish or the occasional pizza that
dominate most menus in Budva, perhaps some crunchy spring
rolls, a bowl of hot and sour soup, and a steaming plate of spicy
Szechuan beef is the answer - or at least it is for us from time to
time. Follow your nose to the covered terrace up the stairs past
the entrance to the Modern Gallery. Q Open: 11:00-24:00 from
June-August, 11:00-23:00 September-May. ABW
Sky Light B-4, Trg Bazilike bb, Stari grad, tel. +382
69 03 79 48. With seating set up along the edge of the
overgrown ruins in front of the ci tadel, a trip to Sky Light
will not onl y satiate your hunger, but also remind of you of
Budvas ancient past. The menu consists of fairl y standard
pizza and pasta dishes, and it seems more often then not
customers here are interested in a coffee or a cocktail than
a full meal. In case of bad weather keep your sunglasses
on, as the small interior is painted a blinding blue. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. AB
Tropico C-3, Slovenska Obala bb, tel. +382 69 02 58
75/+382 69 43 42 91, www.tropico-budva.com. It would
be easy to lump Tropico in with the countless other beach-
side restaurants, but the management here does seem to
genuinel y put in more effort than most. Of course if we try
to think of some concrete examples to support this claim we
come up empty, but thats just the feeling we get when we eat
here. The menu covers just about everything, but we prefer
the grilled dishes to the seafood, pasta and pizzas. QOpen
08:00 - 01:00. ABW
Zeleni Gaj C-3, Slovenska Obala bb, tel. +382 69 25
95 15. One of several waterfront restaurants whose tables
spill out onto the beach, Zeleni Gaj is distinguished by the
grove of trees providing a bit of additional protection against
the summer sun, and its proximity to a childrens playground
located under said trees. The wine list is perhaps the most
aestheticall y pleasing in town, with small flags denoting the
country of origin, and liberal dollops of the house tartar sauce
make everything you order taste better. Q Open June-Sept
08:00-02:00, Oct-May 09:00-23:00. PGBS
Zlatibor E-2, Velji Vinogradi 23, tel. +382 33 45 95
12/+382 67 61 01 40, zlatiborbd@t-com.me. Another
quali ty dining option that is somewhat hidden away in a
mostl y residential district, Zlatibor strikes us as something
of a shel tered oasis in a proverbial urban jungle. Open onl y
during the warmer months, the restaurant has a deal with
a local fisherman to keep its suppl y of fresh fish trul y fresh -
as you can see for yourself in the iced display case near the
entrance. Several rooms are also available for rent upstairs.
Q Open June-August 08:00-24:00, September-May 10:00-
22:00. AB
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
36
CAFS
Black Iris Caf B/C-3, Mediteranska bb, TQ Plaza,
tel. +382 78 11 95 30. Located on the first floor of the TQ
Plaza, if youre looking for a place to enjoy the match with
air conditioning and relative peace and quiet this could be
your huckleberry. I ts also a fine place to rest your weary
legs during a longer shopping binge in the mall. Q Open
Jul y and Aug 07:00-00:00, from Sept - June 07:00-23:00.
AW
Horoo (X) B-3, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 69
59 76 66/+382 69 66 36 33. Taking its name from the
Russian word for good or fine and spel t onl y in Cyrillic, to
find the place look for the big red and yellow X! logo through
the park during the day, or listen for live music and crowds
murmuring over cocktails at night. On a scorching summer
day, nothing helps to beat the heat like the eponymous house
drink - a non-alcoholic mix of lemon and soda water. QOpen
08:00 - 01:00. AEBW
Moto Club BU-2 E-4, Jadranski put bb (Hotel
Park), tel. +382 69 20 42 05. A surprisingl y modern
and tidy affair that straddles the line between caf and
bar, any motorcyclists that frequent the place are more
likel y to own a Ducati than a Harley - al though wi th pints
of draught Nikiko coming in at onl y 1.60 each even
the moped set can afford to drink away an afternoon.
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. ABW
Mozar t B-4, Stari Grad, tel. +382 33 45 17 12,
vuckovic@t-com.me, www.cafferestaurantmozart.com.
One of several cafs with row upon row of tables and chairs
on the square just outside the main gate to the old town,
Mozart also also boasts a full restaurant menu, al though
most people coming here for lunch choose to sit at one of
the more intimate tables in an alleyway just inside the walls.
We usuall y opt for one of their heaping meal-sized salads
followed by a Snickers crepe (Twix, Kinder and Bounty are
also available), but they also do some of the best cakes in
Budva. Q Open June-September 08:30-02:00, October-May
08:00-01:00. AGBSW
Plaa Caf B-4, Old Town Beach. Once the only option for a
drink on the old town beach, the venerable Plaa now has some
stiff competition. To its benefit it does have slightly lower prices
than its more upscale neighbours (with upscale being a rela-
tive term, as they all offer chairs on the same sand), and also
offers the lounge chairs for those looking for the true beach e
xperience.
Cider with fresh crisp natural taste
Somersby once made
ice a hot commodity
PORTO MONTENEGRO
THE CLUB HOUSE
Aussie inspired laid-back watering hole with
extensive music and cocktail list. Porto Mon-
tenegro Village - Ozana, Tivat, theclubhouse.
me, tel.: +382 (0)67 626 973
PURO BEACH POOL&BAR
Luxurious lounge and restaurant featuring a
central Olympic sized pool cantilevered over
the Bay with unparalleled views, music and
atmosphere. Porto Montenegro Village - Jetty
3 /Lido Mar, Tivat, purobeach.com, tel.: +382
(0)32 660 970
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
38
NIGHTLIFE
Not having much competi tion from anywhere else in the
country to begin wi th (were especiall y looking at you
Podgorica!), during the summer months Budva is the
unequi vocal nightli fe capi tal not onl y of Montenegro,
but pretty much the entire region between Bel grade
and Athens. During this time i ts no exaggeration to say
that the party never reall y ends, as the vast maj ori ty of
the people in town are here on holiday and drinking at a
restaurant during lunch or at the beach during the day
is just short of being mandatory.
Once the sun goes down, the nightli fe action more or
less falls into three categories: tradi tional bars and
pubs, open-air bars and everything else. The old town
establishments, most of which soldier on throughout
the year, are bi t more low key than elsewhere, while
the seasonal open-air bars and clubs near the marina
and along the water front are where things get can get
reall y crazy. Then of course there are the tradi tional
clubs nearer the ci ty centre, and last but defini tel y not
least the absurdl y large Top Hill that is trul y in a class
of i ts own.
Bars & Pubs
Casper Bar B-4, Cara Duana 10, Stari grad, tel.
+382 33 40 22 90. We probabl y shouldnt play favouri tes,
but at the same time we feel compell ed to mention that
theres no place wed rather spend the better part of the
ni ght drinking in Budva than under the pine trees on one
of Caspers several terraces in the old town. Possessing
an authenti ci ty that at times can be in short suppl y in
these parts, this place is defini tel y the anti thesis of the
mega-clubs and beach bars blasting turbo folk. Jazz,
RnB, hip hop, el ectro, reggae, Latin, broken beat and
Nikiko Pivo
From 1896 until the present day, Nikiko Pivo has
become the most popular beer brand in our market.
Produced from natural ingredients, skilfully and expertly
by our brew masters, this famous lager has preserved
its recognizable taste over the years.
The 115-year long tradition, numerous medals and
awards at world competitions confrm the undoubted
quality of our beer. Once again, as a result of tradition
and quality, Nikiko Pivo won a gold medal at this
years prestigious international competition - Monde
Sellection.
Nikiko Pivo is produced in seven different SKUs:
0.5 l returnable bottle, 0,33 l non - returnable bottle,
cans 0,33 and 0,5 l, 2l PET bottle and keg volume 30l
and 50l. It contains 5% alcohol, and is best served at
3 - 5 C.
Nikiko Pivo, just like the region it hails from, has
always been the synonym for adventure, competitive
spirit and return to nature, and is ment to be enjoyed
with mates.
Always among friends
house are the norm here, and they even host an an-
nual jazz festi val in earl y September. I f youre looking for
something al ternati ve, this is your place. Q Open: 10:00-
02:00 from June-August, 17:00-02:00 from September-
May. ABW
Chest OSheas Irish Pub B-4, Vuka Karadzica 9,
Stari Grad, tel. +382 69 57 94 68, chestosheas@
gmail.com. A town is not a town wi thout an Irish Pub, in
whi ch case Budva owes i ts very existence to this place
- the onl y representati ve of the Emerald Isl e in these
parts. In addi tion to Guinness on tap (whi ch any and all
Irish pubs deserving of the name have of course), there
are al so spor ts, spor ts and more spor ts, wi th a flat
screen TV on virtuall y every wall showing virtuall y every
sporting event worth watching. Some ni ce extras include
a book exchange, current English language newspapers,
free internet and an organised pub crawl. QOpen 12:00
- 24:00. ABW
Greco B-4, Njegoeva bb, Stari grad. Arguabl y the
most popular place to par ty wi thin the old town walls,
during the summer months the action doesnt reall y get
going till sometime after 10pm and continues until well
after weve begun to feel guil ty for local residents trying
to sl eep. Even when the place gets packed inside and
out - whi ch i s almost a guaranteed occurrence ever y
ni ght of the week - i t still feels a bi t more intimate a venue
than the larger beach bars outside the old town, due to
the natural space limi tati ons. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.
AB
Jeff B-4, Njegoeva bb, Stari grad, tel. +382 68 03 33
35. The mostl y standing-room onl y nei ghbour of Greco in
the centre of the old town, even when theres not much
going on here, places to rest your weary l egs are in short
suppl y. Weve still never managed to find out who Jeff is,
but we have repeatedl y been serenaded drunk tourists on
more than one occasion. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
40
NIGHTLIFE
Korkovado B-4. Al though i t shares i ts name wi th the
caf-cum-restaurant just outside the old town gates, this
hip cocktail bar is a completel y different experience, with an
ambience all its own. Sitting quite literall y atop and within the
old town walls, Korkovado has the look and feel of an exclusive
nightspot, but luckily none of the pretension. To find the place,
turn left as soon as you pass through the main gate (Glavni
ulaz) and follow the narrow alleyway until you see a sexy
bikini-clad cartoon pointing you to the entrance.
MB IceClub B-4, Njegoeva 44, Stari Grad, tel. +382
33 45 25 52/+382 69 45 25 52, iceclubmb@gmail.
com. This one could have easil y been included under cafs,
as its pleasant terrace on the old towns largest square - in
the shadow of the towering belfry of the Church of St John the
Baptist - is one of the best places to grab a coffee, cake or
fancy ice cream concoction during the day. However, theyre
also well-known for cocktails and club is in the name, which
was the deciding factor. For more unique drinking experience,
try to grab a seat on one of the three-person sofa swings.
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. ABW
The Prince B-4, Vranjak 8, Stari Grad, tel. +382 69 31
25 98. Budvas old town is small, but this place still man-
ages to remain off the proverbial beaten path, surrounded
by private courtyards with vegetation spilling out over their
walls. A small but dignified-looking interior is supplemented
by a handful of tables and chairs in the alleyway outside, and
you can set your glass of draught Nikiko on the weather-
worn stone next to the entrance that looks to be from Roman
times. They have Guinness, but a pint will cost you nearl y 8.
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. ABW
Clubs
Discoteque Trocadero B-3/4, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382
69 06 90 86, info@trocaderobudva.com, www.trocader-
obudva.com. Opened in 1992, Discoteque Trocadero (not to
be confused with the seasonal beach bar of the same name)
is indisputably the godfather Montenegros party scene, with a
reputation that long ago spread to Belgrade and beyond. In 2005
the club moved to its current location in the centre of Budva, which
was formerly the citys main cinema, and it can now host nearly
2,000 partygoers at once - which is does on nearly a nightly basis
during the summer. There are frequent live performances, mostly
of the Yugo pop and turbo folk variety. Q Open June-September
22:00-05:00, closed in winter. AE
Sparta C-3, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 69 91 49 14,
www.clubsparta.net. One of Budvas most exclusive club
(at least of those that are accessible to the general public),
as the name suggests, Sparta has a vaguely Greek or Roman
theme, but done in a sophisticated style that doesnt take
things too far. This is the place that VIPs come to party if they
want to have a good time but still keep a relativel y low profile,
and its Fashion TV events have become the stuff of legends.
Pack some smart clothes if you plan on getting in, while reser-
vations are also recommended. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00.
Open-Air Bars and Clubs
Arena H-2, Beika plaa bb, tel. +382 69 03 53 50/+382
33 45 18 43, salus@t-com.me. Designed to resemble the
coliseum in Rome (or at least half of it), Arena is a beach bar in
the most literal sense, as the light yellow panels that make up
its semi-circle exterior are set up right on the sand. While they
unfortunately dont have any gladiators battling to the death for
the publics entertainment, let alone any lions, tigers or other
animals of prey, they do have loud music and lots of alcohol,
which in our book is almost as good.
El Mundo Cocktail Bar B-4, Stari grad, tel. +382 69
48 12 95. Of all the open-air bars that set up shop around
old town walls during summer, El Mundo is one of the longest
running. Located near the marina on Trg od Gvozdenih Vrata,
its known for its special ty cocktails and focus on Latin music
(if you can manage to differentiate the noise coming out of its
speakers from that of its neighbours). And on a completel y
subjecti ve note, weve found that for some reason this is
where some of the most attractive girls like to congregate.
QOpen 20:00 - 02:00.
Fortaleza B-4, Trg od Gvozdenih Vrata bb, Stari grad, tel.
+382 69 89 14 04. Were not sure if this open bar just outside
the old town is named for the brand of tequila or the capital of
the Brazilian state of Cear, but one night last summer we drank
so much tequila here that we could have sworn we were at Car-
nival in Brazil - which was good fun until the next morning when
we tried to roll out of bed only to realise that we had passed out
on the beach and had one of the worst hangovers of our life!
We guess what were trying to say is, drink in moderation and
stay away from tequila. QOpen 21:00 - 01:00. A
Hacienda B-3, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 68 22 70 94,
info@haciendabarbudva.com, www.haciendabarbudva.
com. Order a couple of the giant cocktails served in carved
out full-sized watermelons and you may just start thinking
youre in Rio during carnival season. Onl y operating during
the summer season, this Latin themed open-air party venue
is hidden amongst the trees just to the west of the old town
and promenade. A mild mannered caf and restaurant by day,
once the sun goes down everything goes, and its not uncom-
mon to see full y costumed Brazilian dancers entertaining the
sweaty crowds, or a live cuban band improving requests from
the crowd. Q Open: June - September 08:00-02:00 A
Maltez C-3, Slovenska obala bb, tel. +382 68 31 87
92. Al though this is Budvas onl y pirate-themed nightclub,
Pirates of the Caribbean fans shouldnt get too excited, as
waif-like Kiera Knightl y has been replaced by a crew of volup-
tuous Montenegrins rocking swimwear and high heels, while
gyrating wildl y on the bar and most other available surfaces
[Editors note: Coming here with your girlfriend may not be the
best idea youve ever had], and Johnny Depps impersonation
of Keith Richards reanimated corpse now looks a lot more like
Russians in muscle shirts. Of course thats not to say that you
wont have a great time here. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00.
Top Hill A-1, Topliki Put bb, tel. +382 68 05 05
08/+381 69 1 66 96 00, info@tophill.me, www.tophill.
me. With a capacity of well over 5,000 this massive open air
club on the hill overlooking the city and sea some 600m below
could fit nearly one third of Budvas population within its walls
at the same time, and is one of the largest open air clubs
in all of Europe. Onl y opened in 2010, its headline-capturing
capacity and state-of-the-art facilities (not to mention ideal
location) have made it possible to add some of the biggest
brand names in clubbing to its programme, such as Ministry
of Sound, Hed Kandi, Playboy and Fashion TV. More than just
another club, an night at Top Hill is an experience not soon
forgotten. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. AL
Trocadero Open Bar C-3, Slovenska Obala bb, tel.
+382 69 32 20 65. Not to be confused wtih the famous
Discoteque Trocadero a few hundred metres away, this is
easil y the most recognisable of the many places that line the
main city beach thanks to the replica Eiffel Tower at its centre.
Like elsewhere you can expect loud (turbo folk) music blasting
from every direction, girls dressed appropriately for the beach
dancing in high places, and guaranteed good times under the
stars and/or moon. QOpen 21:00 - 01:00.
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
42
BEACHES
2012 budva.inyourpocket.com
43
BEACHES
Its no secret that Budvas biggest asset when it comes to
tourism is its beaches. This is no chicken or the egg type
argument - the beaches were here first, and the people,
towns, resorts, marinas, nightclubs, Russians, go-go
dancers, Ferraris and everything else followed. The so-
called Budva Riviera comprises some 35km in the heart
of Montenegros Adriatic coast, roughly 12.5km of which is
covered by glorious glorious beaches.
Usually officially divided into 18 different locations - most
of which weve covered in detail here - Budvas beaches
run the gamut in terms of size, atmosphere and history,
and each has its own unique personality. Most of the them
also offer ample opportunities to party, with beach bars,
open-air clubs and loud music being the normal state of
affairs along most of the coast during the summer.
While the majority of the beaches are privately operated,
admission is usually free of charge, with the catch being
that you are required to pay for a parasol and sun chairs
(and presumably large amounts of alcohol), which can cost
anywhere from 5-15 for two people depending on the
beach. However, some stretches of the nicest sand (most
notably at the west end of Beii and around Sveti Stefan)
are reserved only for guests of certain hotels and resorts.
Beii For the majority of visitors - both tourists and locals
- all discussions of beaches on the Montenegrin coast begin
and end with Beii, the nearl y 2km long swath of sand just
east of Budva that stretches from Zavala hill to the former
fishing village of Rafailovii. Beiis prestigious reputation
dates back to at least 1935, when it was awarded the Grand
Prix in Paris as the best beach in all of Europe. Nowadays,
the western half of the beach is maintained by the luxury
resorts and hotels that have latel y made Beii one of the
most desirable addresses in the entire Mediterranean for jet
setters and the international elite, which means that much
of this area is reserved for guests onl y. But if the 7000 a
night presidential suite at Hotel Splendid is not in your budget,
dont fret, as the eastern half of the beach shares the same
sand, sun and water, and an umbrella and two sun beds can
be rented for as little as 5 per day.
Guvance Less than 100m long, Guvance surrounded by
vegetation and nestled beneath the main Budva-Beii road
and often referred to simpl y as the small beach. The walking
path that runs all the way (more or less uninterrupted) from
Mogren beach to Sveti Stefan passes just above the pristine
white sand before disappearing into the tunnel that emerges
in Beii on the other side, making Guvance a popular place
to stop on a day of beach hopping along the coast. As it
faces west towards the old town, this is also one of the best
places to be at sunset.
Jaz Aside from the beaches surrounding the fame resort
island of Sveti Stefan, Jaz is likel y the most internationall y
known beach in all of Montenegro, as it has recentl y hosted
legendary concerts by some of the worlds most famous
performers. The Rolling Stones first came here in 2007 as
part of their A Bigger Bang Tour, and we followed the next
year by the likes of Lenny Kavi tz, Arman Van Helden and
Madonna, with the latter drawing a crowd of over 50,000,
or nearl y three times the population of Budva. In addition
to its status as a world famous concert venue, Jaz is also
one of the finest beaches in the country, with over 1200m
of pebble-lined shores, clear turquoise water and a nearby
campsite that boasts an eye-popping 2000 lots. Dont worry
too much about crowds though, as the furtherest end of the
beach provides is backed by hills and provides enough privacy
that it was formerl y reserved for nudists.
Kamenovo One of the most underrated beaches in the
region, we like to come here on foot via the tunnel from
Rafailovii (where we also like to return for dinner in the eve-
ning), but you can also park just off the main road above and
walk down. Facing to the southwest, it gets sun for nearl y the
entire day, and offers nice views of sunset behind Sveti Nikola
Island in the distance.
Queens Beach is definitely fit for royalty, photo courtesy of
the Tourist Organisation of Budva
Miloer Arguably the most picture-perfect of all the beaches
on the Budva Riviera, the 300m pink sand beach is surrounded
by the manicured gardens of the Villa Miloer resort, which itself
is part of an 18 hectare nature reserve populated by a varitey of
exotic plant species such as Lebanese cedars, tropical mimosas,
Japanese medlars and various cacti. Sometimes referred to as
Kings beach, this was formerly the summer residence of the royal
family, who obviously chose this location for a good reason.
Mogren Unless you brought your climbing gear, Mogren beach
is only accessible by following the narrow concrete path along
the rocky cliffs from the Avala Hotel just outside the old town
walls (you literally have to go underneath an elevated outdoor
swimming pool), making it one of the most secluded in the
entire area despite being so near to the city centre. Awarded
the prestigious Blue Flag designation in 2004, its often called
one of the most beautiful beaches in Montenegro, thanks to
the lush green hills behind and the clean fine sand both on the
beach and the sea bottom. Its 350m length is actually divided
into two separate beaches, which are connected by a tunnel
through the hillside that juts out into the sea.
Pizana The smaller and less attractive of the two old town
beaches, Pizana is found on the opposite side of the jetty that
protects Budvas marina. That said, the views down the old town
walls are simply stunning, as are those out towards St Nicholas
Island, and the water remains shallow for quite some distance.
Prno The public beach for the lovel y little Mediterranean
settlement of Prno, i ts some 300m of fine sand curves
nearl y halfway around the idyllic bay on which the town sits,
and wi th the four-star Maestral resort and casino not far
away, you know that it will al ways be well-maintained. Facing
due west it also some spectacular sunsets, with Budvas old
town even visible in the distance.
Queens Beach Along with neighbouring Miloer, Queens
beach (or Kraljiina in Serbian) is part of an 18 hectare
protected nature park, that was a part of the royal famil ys
Mediterranean estate prior to being nationalised in 1945.
This small 200m gem was said to be the favourite beach
of Queen Marija, the wife of King Alexander Karaorevi,
which is where it got its name. Al though the Montenegro is
no longer a monarchy, the beach is still said to be a popular
destination for state officials, so theres a chance it may be
closed to the general public if you try and visit.
Riardova Glava Often mistakenl y referred to as Ci ty
beach, Riardova Glava (or Richards Head) is the small strip
of coarse sand just outside the southwest corner of the old
town walls. With the ancient walls towering behind you and
the waves crashing against the rocky outcrop upon which
the foundations of the church of Santa Maria in Punta sits to
your left, this is one of the most atmospheric beaches you
will ever enjoy a drink on (if you can find an empty table at
one of the three cafs that occupy the majority of the sand).
To get there duck through the small passageway from Trg
Pjesnika in the old town, or less romanticall y follow the citys
main promenade until it ends at the Avala Hotel.
Slovenska Plaa Famously given the name Slavic Beach in
1935 by a group of holidaying Czechs (al though dont tell this
to any Slovenians, as they are convinced that its named after
them!), Budvas 1600m long central beach stretches across
entire waterfront from the marina in the west until it ends just
past Hotel Park in the far east of the city. Lined more or less
continuousl y with restaurants and bars - some permanent
and some onl y temporaril y erected during the summer - this
is where the where the party is from morning till late at night
during the high season.
Sveti Nikola Island During the summer months boats regu-
larly ply the 1km of water separating Sveti Nikola Island from
the mainland, which makes getting here a breeze, but at the
same time assures that you unfortunately wont be alone on the
islands built up northern beaches, which account for a combined
840m of waterfront real estate. However, if youre up for a bit of
adventure you can rent a kayak and with some luck find a more
intimate patch of sand under the sheer rock cliffs on the western
or southern sides of the island. After an excursion here youll know
first-hand why the locals refer to the place as Hawaii.
Sveti Stefan If one image were chosen to represent all of
Montenegro, the medieval island resort town Sveti Stefan
would be it - and in fact is it, if you judge by the countless
magazine and guide book covers. While a nights sleep on the
island itself will cost you at least four figures, for considerabl y
less than that you can spend the day swimming on the beach
just opposite, or at least on the southernmost two-thirds, as
the pinkish red sands of the northern beach are reserved
exclusivel y for the resorts guests.
Jaz Beach is one of the our personal favourites
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
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WHAT TO SEE
2012 budva.inyourpocket.com
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WHAT TO SEE
While Budva is known primarily for its beaches and
nightli fe, there are plenty of historical and cultural
points of interest to keep you busy for a couple of days.
Unquestionably, the most famous individual sight is the
island town of Sveti Stefan some six kilometres south
of Budva, while a trip out to Sveti Nikola island just
off the coast allows you to combine a bit of Robinson
Crusoe-style exploration with some time on the beach.
Of course, most of the rest of Budvas sights are located
within, or just outside, the walls of its well-preserved
old town.
Churches
Church of St John the Baptist B-4. Soaring nearly twice
as high as any other building in the old town, the bell tower of
this 7th century church dedicated to St John the Baptist is the
unequivocal star of Budvas modest skyline. However, upon
closer inspection it becomes clear even to those unversed
in religious architecture that the mass of buildings referred
to as Sveti Ivan by the locals is actuall y comprised of three
completel y separate structures, namel y the bell tower, the
former Bishopric Court and squeezed between these two the
relativel y diminutive church itself.
The church has undergone significant architectural changes
throughout its history, and was officiall y a cathedral until the
Budvan Archbishopric was abolished in 1828. If you go inside
make sure to pay special attention to the icon of Mary in the
speciall y-buil t north al tar. As the inscription says in Greek, it
is the holiest of holies, and is said to have protected the city
from plagues, pirates and all manner of other scourges since
at least the 14th century.
Church of St Mary of Punta B-4. Legend has it that
the church was buil t on the spot where mysterious Spanish
sailors placed an icon of Mary along with two burning candles
in order to test the Christian faith of the local people sometime
before the 9th century - the idea being that if they were good
Christians they would accept the icon and perhaps build a
church. And here we are 1200 years later, and the church is
still standing! Founding legends aside, it is the oldest church in
Budva and one of the oldest pre-Romanesque churches in the
region. Buil t into the ramparts, it was originall y a Benedictine
monastery, before being taken over by the Franciscans and
later the French.
Church of St Sabas the Sanctified (Crkva Svetog
Save) B-4. Usuall y going by i ts shortened moniker the
Church of St Sava, this small Romanesque structure may
not be immediatel y recognisable as church - to us its al ways
looked a little naked without a bell tower or steeple of any
kind - but during its nearl y nine centuries of existence its
admirabl y served several denominations of church-going
Budvans. Forming part of the old towns southern fortifica-
tions, it in fact pulled double duty as both a Roman Catholic
and Orthodox church during Venetian rule. Nowadays you can
still view several fragments of what were once impressive
frescoes on the interior.
Church of the Holy Trinity B-4. The newest of all the old
town churches, the Church of the Hol y Trinity has onl y called
Trg od Crkava home for the past 208 years. Its architecture is
based on that of the Church of the Assumption in Podostrog
Monastery in the north of the country, and the interior is
notable for the finel y detailed iconostasis painted by the
well-known Greek artist Naom Zetiri in 1883.
Directl y in front of the church, under the shade of a couple
thick palm trees, is the tomb of noted writer and politician
Stjepan Mitrov Ljubia, who was born in Budva in 1824. This
church is popular with Russian tour groups, so if youre lucky
you may be able to sneak in for a quick look outside of the
official opening hours.
Early Christian Basilica B-4. What was once a huge
three-nave basilica dating from the late 5th century, is now
little more than slightl y overgrown ruins surrounded on two
sides by the terrace of caf and restaurant - which for our
tastes is actuall y a great place to grab a drink or light meal.
The remains of the formerl y magnificent structure still stand
as a testament to Budvas importance as a centre of cul ture,
religion and commerce in the south Adriatic region for the
better part of two millennia.
The Old Town
Budvas old town may not have the dramatic setting of
nearby Kotor or the size of Dubrovnik just across the
border in Croatia, but metre for metre its one of the best
preserved and most visitor-friendly ancient walled cities in
this part of the Mediterranean.
Originally founded in the 5th century BC, by the son of
Phoenician King Agenor if legends are to be believed, most
of the architectural elements present today are the work
of the Venetians. Over the centuries Budva has suffered
several major earthquakes, most recently in 1979 when
much of the old town was severely damaged and then
painstakingly restored and rebuilt during the better part
of the 1980s.
While we consider every narrow alleyway, square and
courtyard contained within the walls to be a sight unto
itself, most of locations weve written about in detail are
situated in the southernmost section of the ancient city.
Despite its small size, the old town can be a bit tricky
to navigate for those here for the first time, especially
if youre looking for a specific place. The enormous bell
tower of St Johns church is a handy point of reference,
and you can pick up a hand 3D computer modelled map
for free at any tourist office and many other places.
Budva Archeological Museum (Arheoloki muzej)
B-4, Stari Grad, tel. +382 33 45 33 08. Given the amount
of Budvas treasures that have been carted off to institu-
tions elsewhere in Montenegro, Serbia and further afield
(not to mention all the items that nefariousl y found their way
into private hands), its a bit of a surprise that there is still
anything left to exhibit in the towns fine little archeological
museum. However, as far as were concerned the collection
here is provides an excellent survey of what life was like in
this part of the world from ancient time until the end of the
19th century.
Beginning wi th the Ill yrians, who among other things left
behind a fierce-looking bronze helmet that is one of the
museums most prized pieces, the exhibi ts move chrono-
logicall y through various ceramics, glassware and jewellery
from the Greek and Roman periods, before skipping forward
to medieval times and the more modern items from the
Renaissance onwards, whi ch an expectedl y impressi ve
maritime collection.
A small exhibition on the 4th floor is reserved for ethnological
and cul tural artefacts. Its worth coming here with a guide, as
most of the exhibits are unfortunately only labelled in Serbian.
However, if youd like to remain independent, you can purchase
a detailed full-colour catalogue from the ticket office before
you enter. All in all, splendid way to spend and afternoon if
you grow weary of the beach parties.
Budva Marina B-3/4. While Budvas Marina probably isnt
at the top of (or even on) most visitors lists of sights to see
while on holiday here, we find it a fascinating location in its own
right, and for better or worse it has an inescapable presence
if youre walking, dining, drinking or swimming anywhere near
the waterfront. Once a small fishing harbour like countless
other you can find around the Adriatic, in recent years it has
been expanded to accommodate the speedboats and yachts
of wealthy locals and foreign holidaymakers. The juxtaposition
of the gnarled old fishing fleet and the glistening new pleasure
toys moored together beneath the old town walls, makes for
some interesting photo opportunities. This is also the place
to head if youd like to catch one of the regular boats to Sveti
Nikola Island during the summer.
Budvas old town is almost big enough to get lost in - if you try reall y hard, photo courtesy of the Tourist Organisation of
Budva
Discover Budvas history of piracy at the Archeological
museum, or see the real thing (apparentl y) at Budva Marina
The Church of St Sabas forms part of the old town walls
PORTO MONTENEGRO
NAVAL HERITAGE COLLECTION
Housed in a beautifully restored building,
the NHC tells the remarkable story of the
Adriatics maritime past, showcasing over
300 artifacts including Yugoslav submarines.
Porto Montenegro Village, Tivat, portomon-
tengero.com, tel.: +382 (0)32 660 900
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
46
WHAT TO SEE
2012 budva.inyourpocket.com
47
WHAT TO SEE
15.06 Friday - 01.08 Wednesday
Tel. +382 33 40 29
35, theatrecity@t-
co m. me, www.
gr adteatar. com.
Founded in the mid-
1980s as a way to
celebrate the end of
the multi-year rebuild-
ing process that was
required to repair the damage caused by a devastating
earthquake in 1979, Theatre City is more than just a
drama festival as the name would suggest. In fact, its a
six week performing arts festival held in various open-air
venues across Budva, and one of the largest events of
its kind in the region.
During the festival the city itsel f becomes one enor-
mous stage - hence the name - with actors, musicians,
artists, wri ters and poets practising their craft for
eager audiences. While the Citadels large elevated
courtyard can be considered the main stage, other
locations include several beaches, old town squares,
church interiors and several other venerable ancient
buildings. In addition to the nearly daily events officially
organised under the banner of the festival, there are
many additional smaller fringe events, exhibitions and
the like that further reinforce the festive atmosphere
in the city.
A full programme of events can be found on the official
festival website, which also includes detailed informa-
tion about the individual venues and performers.
26th Theatre City
Dancing Girl Statue A-4. Despi te the fact that i ts
become one of the most photographed sights in all of
Budva, surprisingl y little is known about this famous statue
positioned above the crashing waves on the rocks between
the old town and Mogren beach. The story thats most often
told about the statues origins is that its a memorial to the
daughter of a weal thy local famil y who went for a swim one
day and never returned, which is sometimes embellished with
additional details invol ving lost or unrequited love.
One legend weve never actuall y heard is that touching the
statues breasts, thighs or buttocks will bring good luck, but
judging by where the metal has been rubbed to a shiny golden
colour this rumour must have been circulating for some time.
At the end of the day, wed almost rather not knowing where
the truth lies, as finding out that its just an ordinary work of
art - even if its an exceptionally elegant one - would somehow
be disappointing.
Open Art Studio B-4, Iva Mikovia 8a, tel. +382 69
48 08 97/+382 69 27 40 82, openartstudionvip@mail.
ru, www.openartstudiovip.com. The private art gallery of
Jelena Papovi and ivojin eli is the just about the opposite
of what youd expect a private art gallery to be - a relaxed
quasi-spiri tual atmosphere where long discussions about
art, method, philosophy and life come before any mention of
sales or prices. Located just off of Trg Palmi, the two-room
gallery is also an active studio, with works in various phases
resting on easels, shel ves and the floor.
Al though the two resident artists both have Montenegrin
backgrounds, they are from different generations (ivojin is a
veteran of the art world having studied and lived in the Nether-
lands for two decades, while Jelena is some years younger and
has mainl y worked in Montenegro) and have vastl y different
styles (ivojin works primaril y on abstract, so-called energy
paintings, while Jelenas central subject is the human figure).
Art is subjective, and we wll admit that we quite like both
their work, but even non-collectors or enthusiasts may find
something interesting here.
Roman Necropolis A-4. Onl y discovered in 1937 during
the construction of what is now the Hotel Avala, the Roman
necropolis is actuall y two separate ancient burial grounds:
a Greek necropolis dating back to the 4th to 1st century BC
and a Roman one that was buil t on top of it during the 1st
and 2nd century AD.
Extensive archeological excavations took place over a period
of some three decades from the 1950s till the 1980s, un-
covering over 450 individual graves and countless priceless
artefacts. Most of these - which include ceramics, weapons
and jewellery from the Greeks, and ceramic, stone and glass
urns that held the remains of cremated Romans - were carted
off to various museums in Belgrade, Split, Cetinje and else-
where, although some items are also on display at the Budva
Archeological Museum nearby in the old town.
Additionall y, the site itself is now a small open-air exhibition
picturesquel y arranged under some swaying palms between
the aforementioned Hotel Avala and the neighbouring Hotel
Mogren at the end of the promenade.
The Citadel B-4, Stari Grad. Logicall y set at the high-
est point in the old town, the Citadel is thought to be buil t
upon the remnants of Budvas ancient acropolis. Expanded
and strengthened over the centuries, function was al ways
placed over style, which has given it the layered appearance
it has today.
The fortress main building was constructed by the Austrians
in 1836 to house the regiment of troops stationed at the
coast, and is now partially used for a small city museum, while
another section of the building houses a small but statel y
library - which would without question be our favourite caf
in town, if onl y there were a caf!
In the summer the Citadels large open-air courtyard is trans-
formed into a stage for the annual Theatre City Festival, giving
the audience an uncanny feeling of floating between sea and
sky. Q Admission 2.
Around Budva
Kosma Fortress H-1. Of the many si ghts hidden
hi gh up in the hill s above Budva, Kosma For tress i s
perhaps the impressi ve. A fine exampl e of functi onal
mid-19th century mili tary archi tecture, i t was buil t during
the 1840s along what was then the border between the
Austro-Hungarian Empire and Montenegro, and was the
most important and strategi call y placed of the chain of
defensi ve forti fi cations in the area - recei ving a personal
visi t from Emperor Franz Joseph himsel f in 1875. Con-
structed from grey limestone dug out from local quarries,
the fortress still bl ends in qui te seaml essl y wi th the rug-
ged rocky terrain. Nowadays the structure is in a state of
disrepair that could even be call ed ruins (as i ts missing
i ts roof and signi ficant portions of i ts tower and walls), but
i t is still a visuall y stunning specimen wi th breathtaking
views.
Mogren Fortress Ruins If the ancient buildings in
the old town are too well-preserved for your tastes, then
the ruins of once mighty Mogren Fortress may be more to
your liking. Situated on the seaside bluffs that overlook
both the city of Budva and Sveti Nikola Island to the east,
Jaz Beach to the west and the open sea everywhere in
between, the vantage point from atop what remains of
the fortress are arguably the best of anywhere the entire
Montenegrin coast.
Originally built in 1860 to protect against attack from the
towns western flank, the structure played an active role
in both World Wars after receiving some modern concrete
additions, but then fell into disrepair with the receding
likelihood of an Italian invasion. Nowadays it serves as
a site of interest for intrepid tourists, as well as popular
party spot for the local youth.
The easiest way to get there is to have a taxi drop you
off at the turn off just before the tunnel on the main road
to Tivat and Kotor, and then walk the 500m or so up the
unsealed path to the top. When youre done you have the
option of walking back down the hill on the same road, or
finding your way down to Mogren beach along the not very
well-marked path. Whichever way you choose beware of
snakes, as the long grass here is full of them (some of
which are poisonous) during the warmer months.
Mogren Fortress Ruins
Sveti Nikola Island is so close to Budva that if all else fails
you can swim there in about an hour, photo courtesy of the
Tourist Organisation of Budva
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
48
WHAT TO SEE
The forti fied island village of Sveti Stefan is an im-
age that most people are familiar wi th, even i f they
are not aware that i ts located in Montenegro - onl y
6km down the coast from Budva to be exact. Buil t in
the 15th century after a decisi ve victory against the
Turks at nearby Jaz beach (local legend has i t that
the construction was financed largel y wi th treasure
captured during the battle), for most of the next few
centuries i t was nothing more than a sleepy fishing
village that was home to a dozen or so familes and
occasionall y had to fend off attack by the Ottomans,
pirates or other neer-do-wells.
In the 19th century, the island became too small to
support to i ts 400 or so residents, who collecti vel y
deci ded to move the whol e vil l age a few hundred
metres away on the mainland. It was from this point
forward that Sveti Stefan was sl owl y transformed
into a resort town - first for the royal famil y and later
i n the 20th century for cel ebri ti es and the ul tra-
weal thy. In the 1960s and 1970s i t reached the peak
of i t international fame, as frequent guests included
Elizabeth Tayl or, Orson Well es, Sophia Loren, Kirk
Dougl as, Mari l yn Monroe, Pri ncess Margaret and
the first man is space Yuri Gagarin. Chess l egend
Bobby Fischer also won his famed rematch with Boris
Spassky here in 1992.
The island lost some of i ts lustre following the long
drawn out breakup of Yugoslavia in the 1990s, and by
the beginning of the earl y 21st century i t had begun
to fall into decline. However, in 2007 the entire island,
as well as the nearby Villa Miloer on the mainland,
was taken over by the exclusive luxury resort operator
Amanresorts, which has since undertaken extensi ve
renovation and restoration of many of the buildings,
reopeni ng the fi rst phase of the proj ect i n 2008.
Unfortunatel y for the maj ori ty of tourists - and pre-
sumably our readers - Sveti Stefan is currently closed
to non-guests, but at least i ts spectacular outward
appearance can still be freel y enj oyed from the adja-
cent beach and surrounding countryside.
Sveti Stefan
Podostrog Monastery G-2. This 17th century monas-
tery is situated on outskirts of modern Budva, onl y 2km or
so from the old town. With great views of the entire bay, it
was known as one of the favourite place of Prince Njego,
who ruled Montenegro in the middle of the 19th century.
The large complex was buil t in two stages, with the small
Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin and a two-
floor monks residence completed first and protected with
defensive walls and towers. The large terrace adjacent to
the residence, was said to have been buil t at the request of
Njego himself. A larger second church outside the walls was
added at a later date.
Praskvica Monastery J-2. One of the most beautiful (and
easiest to reach) of all the monasteries near Budva, Praskvica
is onl y a few minutes drive above Sveti Stefan. Dating back to
at least the earl y 15th century, today the still active Serbian
Orthodox monastery consists of two churches, a large building
serving as the monks residence and cemetery. The much
larger of the two churches is dedicated to St Nicholas and was
buil t in 1847 in the spirit of Neo-Gothic style. The interior of
the simple single-nave building is dominated by a large golden
iconostasis. The smaller church honours the Hol y Trinity, and
is notable for some well-worn yet nevertheless impressive
original frescoes from the 17th century.
Sveti Nikola Island That large green landmass sitting
conspicuousl y in the middle of Budvas otherwise empty bay,
is the island of Saint Nicholas, which also goes by the name
Sveti Nikola (in Serbian) and Hawaii. At 2km long its one of
the largest islands in the southern part of the Adriatic sea,
and is surprisingl y covered with lush vegetation throughout
the year.
Of cul tural importance is the small Church of St Nicholas,
which officiall y dates back to the 16th century, but was buil t
on top of the ruins of an even earlier Crusader-era church and
cemetery. At the north end of the island theres a restaurant,
caf and a couple of private beaches, while most of the rest
of the land is still wild, and home to many varieties of wildlife,
including rabbits, birds and even deer.
Its believed that a narrow sandbar once connected the island
to the mainland, and theoretically you could still reach it on foot
at low tide when the water is said to be only half a metre deep.
However, most people opt for one of the numerous water taxi
that travel back and forth during the summer season. At other
times of year youll have to negotiate with the local fishermen
if you dont have your own boat.
Budvas once mighty Citadel is now breached on a dail y
basis - by tourists, photo by Ruiz de Azua
Magnificent Sveti Stefan, photo by LeCardinal
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
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SHOPPING
2012 budva.inyourpocket.com
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SHOPPING
Fashion & Shoes
+IT B-4, Stefana Mitrova Ljubie 4, Stari grad, tel.
+382 33 45 29 31. Shoes and accessories. QOpen
09:00 - 00:00.
Afrodita B-4, Stefana Mitrova Ljubie 22, Stari grad, tel.
+382 33 45 26 29, amcbudva@gmail.com. Fashionable
clothing and shoes, some made by domestic designers.
QOpen 09:00 - 00:00.
Slovenska obala 11,
Budva
Mediteranska 8,
Budva - TQ Plaza
www.tenero.me
PORTO MONTENEGRO
FASHION&SHOES
HEIDI KLEIN
Resort wear, swim wear as well as beach
accessories from designers lines. Porto
Montenegro Village - Ozana, Tivat, heidiklein.
com, tel.: +382 (32) 660 964
WOLF&BADGER
Lifestyle boutique showcasing edgy mens
and womens lines and jewelry. Porto Monte-
negro Vlllage - Ozana, Tivat, wolfandbadger.
com, tel.: +382 (0)32 660 965
ANAMAR
Contemporary dcor pieces as well as bijoux
and fashion accessories from all over the
world. Porto Montenegro Village - Ozana,
Tivat, tel.: +382 (0)32 540 350
MOOI
Carefully selected high-end designer fash-
ion. Porto Montenegro Village - Zeta, Tivat,
m-o-o-i.me, tel.: +382 (0)32 660 960
MUNGOS
Well known Italian fashion brands. Porto
Montenegro Village - Ozana, Tivat, tel.: +382
(0)32 660 960
NO & ZO
Kids fashion, toys and bedding. Porto Mon-
tenegro Village - Ozana, Tivat, http://www.
noe-zoe.com, tel.: +382 (0)32 660 967
CHUCS
The best quality beach wear for ladies and
gentlemen. Porto Montenegro Village-Ozana,
Tivat, chucsdiveshop.com, tel.: +382 (32)
661 076
SADDLERS UNION
Hand crafted leather precious goods. Porto
Montenegro Village - Tara, Tivat, http://sad-
dlersunion.com, tel.: +382 (0)32 660 960
ITALIA INDEPENDENT
Trendy clothing and eyewear for men. Porto
Montenegro Village -Tara, Tivat, italiaindepen-
dent.com, +382 (0)32 660 960
PORTO MONTENEGRO
ART
GALLERY PIZANA
Showcasing talent from local and internation-
al artists. Porto Montenegro Village - Ozana,
Tivat, pizana.me, tel.: +382 (0)67 896 132
SPECIALITY SHOPS
SUPERMARKET CONCEPT STORE
A conceptual and a multifunctional space,
or as they say, everything you can think of in
one place. Porto Montenegro Village - Milena,
Tivat, www.supermarket.rs
FLOWER SHOP
Porto Montenegro Village - Teuta, Tivat
POLAR CLEAN
Laundry service. Porto Montenegro Village
Ozana, Tivat, tel.: +382 (0)32 684 077
FOOD&DRINK
BONELLA
Fruits and vegetable market with juice bar.
Porto Montenegro Village - Zeta, Tivat, www.
agrogroup.me/bonella.html
GIFTS&SOUVENIRS
AM/PM CONCEPT STORE
Range of handmade, sustainable and or-
Bambini B-4, Petra I Petrovia 1, Stari grad, tel. +382
68 06 95 61. Fashion for children. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
Bambola B-4, Njegoeva 26, Stari grad. Italian clothing
for women. Also at Petra I Petrovia 22. QOpen 09:00 -
00:00.
De Mode Shop B-4, Njegoeva 1, Stari grad, tel. +382
33 45 13 99. Underwear and swim wear for men and women.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
Euromoda B-4, Slovenska Obala 11, tel. +382 33 45
14 20, euromoda@t-com.me, www.tenero.me. Trendy
clothes by Pal Zileri, Baldinini, Santoni and Armata Di Mare.
Q Open 10:00-24:00 in Jul y and Aug, 10:00-21:00 from
Sept - May
Lisca B-4, Stefana Mitrova Ljubie 9, Stari grad, tel.
+382 33 45 17 12. Lingerie and swim wear for women.
QOpen 09:00 - 00:00.
Oko B-4, Slovenska obala 11, tel. +382 69 21 73 42.
Optics store with trendy frames and sunglasses. QOpen
09:00 - 00:00.
Paradiso B-2/3, 22. Novembra 7, tel. +382 33 45 11
65. Trendy fashion for women. Also at Splendid Hotel. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
Paradiso Outlet C-2, Jadranski put 37, tel. +382 33 45
20 02. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
Polini B-4, Njegoeva 16, Stari grad. Trendy Italian shoes.
QOpen 09:00 - 00:00.
Tenero Fashion B/C-3, Mediteranska 8 (TQ Plaza),
tel. +382 67 27 95 92, tenerofashion@t-com.me, www.
tenero.me. High fashion mul ti-brend store wi th Pal Zileri,
Baldinini, Santoni and Armata Di Mare. Q Open: 09:00-23:00
in Jul y and Aug, 09:00-22:00 from Sept - May
Unico H-2, Beii, Splendid Hotel, tel. +382 33 77 49
30. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
Womens Store C-3, Slovenska obala bb, tel. +382 67
56 18 71. Italian clothing and shoes for women. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00.
Gifts & Souvenirs
GG Souvenir Shop B-4, Njegoeva 30, Stari grad, tel.
+382 68 60 03 88. Get your gift or a souvenir from Monte-
negro here. Also in Museum of Budva courtyard, Slovenska
obala and near the big bell in front of the Old Town. QOpen
09:00 - 00:00.
Mistica B-4, Petra I Petrovia bb, Stari grad, tel. +382
69 08 07 29. Handmade souvenirs. Also at Stefana Mitrova
Ljubie 19, in the Old Town. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
ganic products from the Bay of Kotor and
beyond, all in one nautically themed space.
Porto Montenegro Village Ozana, Tivat, por-
tomontenegro.com, tel.: +382 (0)32 661 041
FOR THE HOME
PROHOUSE
Interior design company supplying furniture
lines from Italy and abroad. Porto Montenegro
Village Teuta, Tivat, prohousecg.me, tel.:
+382 (0)20 405 045
BOOKS&MAGAZINES
CITY BOOKSTORE
International books and magazines and cof-
fee bar. Porto Montenegro Village Teuta,
Tivat, novaknjiga.com
PORTO MONTENEGRO
JEWELLERY&WATCHES
CAROLINA BUCCI
Fine designer jewelry. Porto Montenegro Vil-
lage Ozana, Tivat, carolinabucci.com, tel.:
+382 (32) 660 966
MAWI
Stunning bijoux pieces warn by celebrities.
Porto Montenegro Village - Tara, Tivat, www.
mawi.co.uk, tel.: +382 (0)32 660 960
ZOE&MORGAN
Luxury jewelry with a rock&roll edge. Porto
Montenegro Village -Tara, Tivat, zoeandmor-
gan.com, tel.: +382 (0)32 660 960
Jewelry & Watches
Old Time Watch Shop B-4, Petra Prvog Petrovia 23,
Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 28 80. Chronotech, Jaques
Lemans, Fossil, Diesel and more. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
Tu Jewelry B-4, Njegoeva 20, Stari grad, tel. +382
33 45 21 30. Modern jewelry, some hand made. QOpen
09:00 - 23:00.
Sports & Outdoor
Mega Sport B-4, Njegoeva 9, Stari grad, tel. +382 33
45 34 51. Various high quality sports equipment, including
Nike. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
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Tourist Information Office Stari Grad, tel. +382
32 32 59 50/+382 32 32 28 86, tokotor@t-com.
me, www.tokotor.com. Kotors tourist information
office is in a kiosk just outside the main city gate. Staff
hand out free maps. Visitors can rent an audio guide (1/
hr) that has a commentaried walk through the old town.
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Forza Cattaro Trg od oruja 432, Stari grad, tel.
+382 32 30 40 68, forzacattaro@t-com.me, www.
forzamare.com. Guides, tours, transfers, hotel and
travel bookings from a helpful travel agent cum souvenir
shop right inside the ci tys main gate. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00.
Tourist information
The views of Kotor Bay from the fortifications above the old town are worth the (steep, slippery) climb, photo by Georgios
Giannopoulos
Kotor, known as Cattaro in medieval times, has the most
dramatic setting of any town along the Mediterranean
Sea.
In the far corner of the impressive Kotor Bay, surrounded
by 1,400 metre high mountains, its medieval stone
churches and houses huddle together within a small
triangle of mighty fortress walls, squeezed between the
waterfront and the mountains raising sheer up behind. Its
been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979, and youd
be mad not to visit.
With a population of 14,000 it is situated just 80km from
Podgorica, 22km from Budva and 90km from Dubrovnik
across the border in Croatia, and is easily reached by bus.
Getting Around
Kotor is quite small, easy to get around and easy to get
to, with buses shuttling up and down the coast and to
Podgorica all day.
Bus station Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 32 32 58 09.
With its unique bombed-out look, Kotors bus station is a
10-minute walk south of the old town and has smashing
views of the rockface directl y behind. If you want to use a
bus, youll have to brush up on your Cyrillic, as it is beyond
the ci tys budget to post the destination names in Latin
script. Theres a ticket office but they dont speak foreign
languages and you have to buy most tickets from the driver
anyway, so simpl y rock up 15 minutes before departure.
QOpen 06:00 - 21:00.
Where to stay
Kotor has many small hotels and apartments both in and
outside the old town. Beware that in summer the noise
from the bars in much of the old town are such that you
wont get much sleep until daybreak - and thats when the
sweepers come and clang the bins about. Choose your
room very carefully.
Hotels
Astoria Stari Grad 322, Trg od Pote, tel. +382 32 30
27 20/+382 69 77 55 22, fax +382 32 30 27 21, ko-
tor@astoriamontenegro.com, www.astoriamontenegro.
com. With onl y nine surprisingl y spacious rooms set in a
beautifull y restored 14th century palace, Astoria is reall y in
a class of its own when it comes to accommodation in the
old town - and not onl y Kotors old town, but anywhere. The
gorgeous rooms are complimented by staff that not onl y pro-
vides excellent service, but also seems genuinel y welcoming
and thoughtful to the needs and desires of guests. If youre
thinking of splurging onl y once during your trip, let this be the
place. Perhaps the onl y drawback about staying here is that
wherever you stay next will be disappointing in comparison.
Q 9 rooms (singles 120/180, doubles 150/230, suites
180/280 in low/high season). ABKW
Cattaro Stari Grad 433, tel. +382 32 31 10 00, fax
+382 32 31 10 80, cattarohotel@t-com.me, www.
cattarohotel.com. One of Kotors best hotels, buil t inside
the reconstructed Napoleontic theatre and a wing of the
dukes palace, with all rooms overlooking the main square.
The dcor is classy, with flatscreen TVs embedded in dark
wooden frames. Apartments are large and sl eep three
people. The hotel also has a casino upstairs. Q 20 rooms
(singles 69/89, doubles 99/119, suites180/230 in low/
high season). POARFBKW hhhh
Forza Mare Kriva bb, Dobrota, tel. +382 32 33 35 00,
fax +382 32 33 35 20, info@forzamare.com, www.forza-
mare.com. Do yourself a favour and book a room right now
for this 5-star boutique hotel tucked away on the coast a few
kilometres north of Kotor. If you succeed in securing one of the
ten highl y in demand suites, youll be in good company - wed
love to list the names that are rumoured to have stayed here,
but that would probabl y get us in trouble. Whats the draw?
Large individually designed and themed suites, first-rate facili-
ties (including a spa and wellness centre, outdoor pool, gym
and seaside dining), and discrete professional service to start
with. If youre splashing out anyway, the deluxe rooms with
sea views are well worth the premium. Q 10 rooms (doubles
220-322 from June - Sept, 180-252 in April, May and Oct,
closed from Nov- Mar). PAFLBKDCW
Monte Cristo Stari Grad 423/424, tel. +382 32 32 24
58/+382 69 71 33 58, fax +382 32 32 24 59, office@
montecristo.co.me, www.montecristo.co.me. Situated in
a 13th century palace on a lovel y little square in the middle of
Kotors old town, the Monte Cristo exudes a certain charm and
authenticity that few can match. The rooms are all uniquel y
designed in order to accommodate the floorplan of the
ancient building, and the care that went into choosing each
piece of furniture is immediatel y evident. Of course modern
amenities (LCD and satellite TV, broadband internet, etc) are
also included. Breakfast on the small terrace overlooking
the square is an absolutel y sublime experience, and all but
guarantees a perfect start to the day. Q 7 rooms (standard
doubles 75-110, deluxe doubles 90-130, 3-person suite
115-175, 4-person suite 150-200). PJAKW
Palazzo Radomiri Dobrota 220, tel. +382 32 33 31
72, fax +382 32 33 31 76, info@palazzoradomiri.com,
www.palazzoradomiri.com. The consensus opinion is that
Palazzo Radomiri is perfect, and al though we try to avoid
making such absolutist statements we find li ttle reason
to disagree. Buil t in the earl y 18th century by a famil y of
weal thy sea captains, the Venetian-era palace has been
painstakingl y restored to its original condition, and outfitted
ever so carefull y with all of the modern amenities one would
expect from a four-star boutique hotel. The same care and
attention to detail that went into its restoration is also shown
to guests, many of whom happil y return at the first available
opportunity. Rooms vary greatl y in size, price and views, but
all the pertinent info can be found on their website. Q 10
rooms (singles 60-170, doubles 90-240, famil y sui tes
120-260). Closed from Oct - April except for group bookings.
PTAFLKCW
Splendido Glavati bb, Pranj, tel. +382 32 30 17 00,
fax +382 32 33 62 22, hotel.splendido@t-com.me, www.
splendido-hotel.com. Just out of town, a short taxi ride along
the very scary road to the Kamenari ferry crossing, this splen-
didly located 18th century building has great views over Kotor
and the bay, a pool and private beach. Its named after the first
ship to sail around the world from Kotor (which actually came
back). The rooms in the main building are small, but those in
the newer annex are fine. Q 43 rooms (doubles 135-145,
apartments 150-200 in July and Aug, 88-125, 106-160
from Sept - May). PHALBKCW hhhh
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Vardar Stari Grad 476, tel. +382 32 32 50 84, fax +382
32 32 50 74, info@hotelvardar.com, www.hotelvardar.
com. Right on Kotors main square and equipped with one
of the most popular terraces, the Vardar is named after a
river in Macedonia and has comfortable rooms that provide
great views of the bustle in the streets around. For business
types theres wifi and a conference room, for bons vivants
theres a wellness centre and a cigar lounge. Q 23 rooms
(singles 125, doubles 185, apartments 220-255 in Jul y
and Aug, 95-115, 125-155, 165-230 from Sept - May).
PHAFLEKDW hhhh
Vila Panonija Dobrota 1, tel. +382 32 33 48 93,
vilapanonija@t-com.me, www.vilapanonija.com. Lo-
cated just a few minutes drive from the Kotor proper in the
settlement of Dobrota, Panonija is a great option for bed
and breakfast if avoiding the bus and boat-loads of tourists
that stream into the old town during the summer. It is a true
villa, buil t in stone in a traditional style. The seven rooms are
cosy, and most offer some view of the bay, including a couple
with terrace on which you can also enjoy your breakfast. The
dining room downstairs has some fine stained glass work,
and has the ambience of some kind of medieval manor or
castle. Q 7 rooms (singles 50, doubles 80, triples 99).
AK
Villa Duomo Stari Grad 385, tel./fax +382 32 32
31 11, tel. +382 32 32 30 30, info@villaduomo.com,
www.villaduomo.com. A beauti ful three-storey Renais-
sance home transformed into a boutique hotel. The rooms
and apartments inside retain their old stone walls, but now
have gleaming marble floors and modern bathrooms. Q 13
apartments (singles 120, doubles 120-135, triples 185,
suites 240-250). PALBW hhhh
Hostels
Montenegro Hostel Kotor Stari Grad, Trg od Muzeja
390, tel. +382 69 03 97 51/+382 69 27 05 10, mon-
tenegrohostel@gmail.com, www.montenegrohostel.
com. Montenegros first and still best chain of locall y-owned
hostels, the Kotor branch is where everything started, on
Museum Square right next to the ci tys famous Mari time
Museum. This place has a great backpacker vibe and
several sociable common rooms, and if you dont feel like
making use of the kitchen facilities, they offer all-you-can-eat
lunch or dinner offer for onl y 5. The in-house travel agency
can arrange all kinds of activities, including the famous Big
Montenegro tour that covers the entire country in a single
day. Stay consecutive six nights in any of their three hostels
and the seventh is free. Q 8 rooms (doubles 25-30, triples
37-45, dorm beds 11-14). PJKW
Old Town Hostel Stari Grad 284, tel. +382 32 32
53 17, info@hostel-kotor.me, www.hostel-kotor.me. If
youre like us, youre drawn to Kotor by the unique romance
of a well-preserved Venetian city on one of the worlds most
picturesque bays, and would love to spend your nights here
sleeping comfortabl y in a beautifull y restored 13th century
palace. And i f youre like us, such accommodation sadl y
exceeds your budget many times over. Luckil y for you (and
us) the folks who just opened the Old Town Hostel have
now made it possible to do just this for onl y 10 per night.
They also have a splendid lounge area, ample bathrooms
and kitchen, several private rooms and even rent electric
bicycles. Q 9 rooms (doubles 30-35, 6/10-bed dorms
10-12 per bed). PW
Where to eat
Kotor gets plenty of tourists in the summer months, and
the old town and immediate surroundings have plenty
of quality places to eat. Later at night, the narrow alleys
burst with young people enjoying drinks and amazingly
loud music.
Astoria Stari Grad 322, tel. +382 32 30 27 20/+382
69 77 55 22, kotor@astoriamontenegro.com, www.
astoriamontenegro.com. Like its sister property in nearby
Budva, the house restaurant at Astorias old town boutique
hotel in Kotor offers exquisi tel y prepared, presented and
served international and fusion cuisine that ranges from Japa-
nese and Thai to Italian and Montenegrin, and most things in
between. The ambience here is a bit different though, with
large format poetry in several languages on the walls and an
enormous artificial tree breaking through an opening in the
ceiling to the floor above. They also have ample seating in
the square outside. An excellent dining experience all around.
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PJABW
Bastion Stari grad 517, 29 Novembra, tel. +382 32 32
21 16. Away from the more touristy parts of the old town,
Bastion is a fine restaurant serving fresh fish dishes and other
Montenegrin specialities beside the citys northern gate. It
has a pleasantl y shady terrace on the quiet square in front of
the restaurant. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAB
Galion uranj bb, tel. +382 32 32 50 54, galion@t-com.
me, www.hotelvardar.com. One of the biggest problems
with dining within the old town walls of Kotor is that you cant
see the forest for the trees - sure there are some lovel y
squares in which to dine, but they simpl y dont offer you any
perspective. Its for exactl y this reason that people venture
several hundred metres around the harbour to Galion, which
sits literall y on top of the water facing the souther city walls.
Perhaps the best part is that the food and service are actually
almost as good as the views. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 01:00. PALBW
Konoba Scala Santa Trg od Salate, tel. +382 69 29
05 12. Said to be the oldest restaurant in Kotor, it definitel y
looks the part, absolutel y oozing authentic charm from every
crack in the ancient wooden beams that ever so tenuousl y
keep the place standing. Quirky touches - such as sea ur-
chins mounted in bird cages - blend into the more standard
maritime-themed dcor, giving patrons plenty to look at while
waiting for their meals, which will inevitabl y be some kind of
fish and/or seafood platter. A highl y recommendable experi-
ence in every regard. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. JB
Kotors famous clock tower used to lean a bit to the right,
but was finall y straightened in the 1980s
La Pasteria Trg Svetog Tripuna, tel. +382 32 32 22 69.
Right opposite the cathedral and with great views from the
terrace, this Italian restaurant serves breakfast till 14:00,
and has lepinja bread sandwiches, pastas, pizzas, meat and
fish dishes and pancakes on the menu. At night the candlelit
tables form the best dining spot in town - reservations recom-
mended. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PABW
Luna Rossa Stari Grad 423/424, tel. +382 32 32 24
58, www.montecristo.co.me. Set on the ground floor
of the same 13th century palace as Hotel Monte Cristo,
while seated at one of the sturdy wooden and wrought-iron
tables in the pretty little square outside youd be forgiven for
thinking you were in a village in the Tuscan countryside. The
menu is focussed but appetising, and gives you the feeling
that every single dish has earned its spot on the page, with
New York steaks and seafood kebabs among those making
the cut with various other Montenegrin and Mediterranean
specialities. Try to get one of the tables on the small terrace
upstairs, which offers the most romantic dining in Kotor.
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PJB
Royal Trg od oruja, Stari grad, tel. +382 32 31 10 00,
www.royal.cattarohotel.com. Housed in what was formerly
part of the Napoleon Theatre, so named because i t was
speciall y buil t for the pint-sized emperor while Montenegro
was part of his Adriatic territories, dining at Royal is indeed
a royal experience. Designed to recreate the atmosphere
present during Napoleons time, the main hall has a notice-
ably Baroque feel to it, with the most prominent feature being
the large classicall y painted portraits covering the walls. Try
to request a table on the balcony outside, it onl y has room
for 16, but offers the best views of the main square. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. ABW
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Stari Mlini Ljuta bb, Dobrota, tel. +382 32 33 35
55, www.starimlini.com. Seven kilometres north of the
old town, the Old Mill (buil t in 1776) sits prettil y beside the
gurgling Ljuta river which springs from an impressive gorge.
Its well worth the trip, as the food is at least as good as the
setting, wi th wonderful, fresh local fish and meat dishes,
bread and wine. Perhaps the best dining in the bay. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. PALB
Vardar Stari grad 476, tel. +382 32 32 50 84, www.
hotelvardar.com. Three parts beige and one part red
leather, the interior here exudes sophistication, as does the
separate cigar lounge down the hall for those who wish to
indulge with some of Cubas (preferably accompanied by some
of Scotlands) finest prior to or after their meal. Diners have
an eclectic menu to choose from, which includes Mexican,
curry and modern Montenegrin dishes among others, and
are helped in their selection by a steady soundtrack of softly
played electronic music. We usually stop by for a light lunch -
the gourmet sandwiches are mouthwatering, as are many of
the starters - followed by arguably the best espresso in town.
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. ABW
Nightlife
If anything, nightlife in Kotor is loud. Damn loud. After dark,
every quaint little alley in town reverberates to the not-so-
sophisticated thumping of local techno anthems. Squares
get packed with well-dressed people drinking beer and
cocktails. Its quite something.
Bars
Cesare Stari Grad 327, tel. +382 32 32 59 13, adm-
cesare@t-com.me. With a light Roman Empire theme - think
Julius head in the logo and Latin mottos above the bar - Ce-
sare is currently Kotors most popular bar. On weekend nights
the dance floor fills with well-dressed people partying to live
music. Come earlier to enjoy the food, the menu includes
Italian and Montenegrin dishes. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PAEBW
Citadella Stari Grad 433, tel. +382 67 24 98 17, www.
cattarohotel.com. Part of the Cattaro-Maximus complex, in
the summer there is no better place to grab a coffee or light
snack during the day or a drink at night, than the Citadella
open bar. Something like a rooftop bar, onl y in this case the
rooftop in question is actuall y the fortifications that surround
Kotors old town, offering great views both out towards the bay
(youre almost on top of the cruise ships when the dock) and
to the ramparts above the town. It has a capacity of around
400, and some nights feels like it exceeds even that. QOpen
08:00 - 01:00. PAEB
Evergreen Pjaca od Cirkula, Stari grad. The closest thing
that Kotor has to a jazz club, they even have live concerts
from time to time, usuall y outside on the square during sum-
mer or at festivals. Located next to the Maritime Museum
and opposite Hostel Montenegro, its a popular destination
for guests of the latter. They also do basic Italian food and
sandwiches, but it feels decidedl y more like a pub or a caf
than a restaurant to us. QOpen 08:00:24:00.
Roma Pub Trg od Salate, tel. +382 69 239 368. A
relativel y new pub on a smaller square in the south of the old
town, a bit removed from the more touristy places. It draws
a youngish crowd of backpackers, budget travellers and the
like, with a few locals usuall y thrown into the mix for good
measure. A fine place to enjoy a cold draught beer during the
hot summer months, or stay warm with some spirits in the
bitterl y cold winter. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. JBW
Clubs
Maximus Stari Grad 232, Trg od Oruja, tel. +382 67
21 67 67, www.discomaximus.com. Depending upon who
you talk to Maximus is either the best club in Montenegro,
the best club in Europe or the best club in the world, and we
cant think of any good reason to disagree with any of these
opinions. This massive complex is literall y buil t right into the
walls of Kotors old and is a feat of both engineering, design
and architecture, with a mind-boggling capacity of around
4000 clubbers. Several dance floors, bars and lounges are
located across three-levels, each equipped wi th state-of-
the-art technology but possessing i ts own distinct vibe.
Maximus hosts big names throughout the year, but things
get the craziest in August during the annual Refresh Music
Festi val. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Sun.
Admission 5-6. PAE
What to see
Kotor has a small, atmospheric old town jam-packed with
lovely low-key sights and tiny alleys with scraggy cats in
the bins. Kotors magical location comes at a price, and
earthquakes have devastated the city more than once -
the last violent one was in 1979. Each time Kotor has been
rebuilt, and its not easy to say whats original and whats
not - which in itself is a compliment to the restoration
crews.
Clock Tower Trg od Oruja, Stari Grad. Construction on
the main squares hulking clock tower was started in 1602
and combined Baroque and Gothic archi tecture. But, this
being the Balkans, it still was not finished when the 1667
earthquake struck, causing the tower to til t. After the 1979
quake, history was finall y set straight and it was rebuil t (and
completed) in upright position.
Maritime Museum (Pomorski Muzej) Trg Grgurina,
Stari Grad, tel. +382 (0)32 30 47 20, www.museum-
maritimum.com. One glance at the mountains around town
and youll see the importance of seafaring history for Kotor.
The rambling Grgurina palace has models of pot-bellied local
traders ships, maps, period rooms recreating a merchants
office and a warship interior, Dutch and English nautical instru-
ments and guidebooks and halls full of old weapons. Theres
also a display on the 1918 mutiny here on the Austrian navys
warship St. Georg. Look for the display of painted bottles,
used by seamen to send desperate messages to their
beloved ones back home. A Kotor secret is revealed here,
as one of the rooms has a surprising view of a lush rooftop
garden. QOpen 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00-23:00, Sun 18:00 -
23:00. Admission 4, includes audioguide.
Old Town Ruins While most of the buildings in Kotors
old town were gloriousl y restored at some point over the
past three decades following the massi ve earthquake of
1979, here and there you can still find reminders of just how
devastating this disaster actuall y was. Cracked, roofless
and completel y overgrown, but still standing defiantl y, these
classical ruins offer an interesting contrast to the rest of
Kotor and most other Venetian towns elsewhere along the
Adriatic. Our single favourite is the old church just inside the
southernmost gate, which you can reall y get a good look at
by hiking up the steep stairs to the left, but other photogenic
specimens can be found in the east of town along the less
touristy pathways leading upwards.
St Lukes Church (Crkva Svetog Luke) Trg Sv.
Luke, Stari Grad. Opposite St. Nicholas Church, this pretty,
small church was buil t in 1195 by Mauro Kacafrangi and his
wife Bona. for the sal vation of their souls. They must have
done something right, because its the onl y building in town
that survived the 1979 earthquake undamaged. Inside there
are two al tars, for Catholic and Orthodox believers, and the
floor is paved with gravestones as people were buried here
until the 1930s.
St Marys Church (Crkva Svete Marije) Trg Sv.
Marije od Rijeke, Stari Grad. A small 14th century church
on the foundations of a much older church. The interior reveals
some 17th century frescoes and an exquisite 14th century
wooden crucifix.
St Nicholas Church (Crkva Svetog Nikole) Trg
Sv. Nikola, Stari Grad. The gloomy Orthodox St Nicholas
Church has shafts of sunlight piercing through the devote
atmosphere, with believers lighting up sputtering candles in
front of the soot-stained icon screen.
St Triphons Cathedral (Katedrala Svetog Tripuna)
Trg od Katedrala, Stari Grad. The most impressive church in
town is the 12th century St. Triphons Cathedral, overlooking a
pretty square and framed by the massive mountains behind.
Consecrated in 1166, i ts undergone enough restoration
projects to make even a British property buyer dizzy. The
faade and towers were rebuilt in Baroque style after the 1667
earthquake. The impressive Romanesque interior has beau-
tiful original architectural features and a few surviving 14th
century frescoes. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Admission 1.
Shopping
Shopping centres
Kamelija Shopping Centar Trg Mata Petrovia, tel.
+382 32 33 53 80, info@kamelija.me, www.kamelija.
me. Seamlessl y combining a an ancient villa with a larger
modern wing, Kamelija first opened its doors to the public
in the 1980s, and has recentl y received a complete renova-
tion to bring it into the 21st century. Various shops, cafs
and other services can be found on its air-conditioned three
floors, with the majority catering to those in need of clothing,
shoes or other fashion items. Theres also a pharmacy and
well-stocked grocery store on the ground floor. Just north of
the old town walls, parking is free for a time corresponding to
how much you purchase. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
Souvenirs
Kotorska Suvenirnica Trg Svetog Luke, tel. +382 69
68 50 18. The old towns largest souvenir shop stocks the
standard selection of postcards, magnets, shot glasses
and various other trinkets that tourists like to buy for under-
whelmed people back home. However, if you reall y want to
impress friends and famil y with something special, ask the
manager to show you some of the most exclusive items on
hand, which include rare antique lead soldiers that are the
only of their kind in the Balkans, icons blessed by local priests,
and what we were told was an authentic Faberge egg. Credit
cards and secured bank transfers gladl y accepted! QOpen
09:00 - 22:00.
The 4.5 kilometres of ramparts and walls surrounding the
city and creeping up Sv. Ivana hill are Kotors landmark
feature. A fortress has crowned the hill since Illyrian
and Byzantine times, but the massive defence system
you see now was first planned in the 13th century, and
was added to by the by the Venetians and Austrians. It
remained in use, on and off, until the end of the Second
World War. The walls are 20m high and 16m thick in
some places.
The lower town is surrounded by a partly restored wall
with Venetian-era and older towers, and bastions named
Gurdic, Korner, Valijer, Citadela (now a caf), Bembo (a
theatre) and Riva. Three gates give access to the old
town, the main Sea Gate from 1555 (then accessing
directly to the quay), the northern gate from 1540 with a
bridge across the Skurda river, and the 17th-19th century
southern gate with a bridge across the Gurdic river.
Above Kotor, the city walls zigzag to the ruined hilltop
Sv. Ivana fortress, 260m above sea level. Two steep
staircases (one near Sv. Marija, the other close to the
cathedral) make their way up the hill, past the Lady of
Salvation church (Crkva Gospe od Spasa), halfway up.
The fortress can be visited, though its best to avoid the
hottest hours of the day. Bring plenty of water and mind
your step - the fortress is in a pretty bad shape despite
renovations. The fantastic views from the top over the
bay and the gorge directly behind the fortress are worth
the struggle up.
Fortifications
Theres lots to explore in Kotors old town
Nature has slowl y started to reclaim this ruined church just
inside the old towns southernmost gate
montenegro.inyourpocket.com
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
58
DIRECTORY
Banks
Komercijalna banka E-3, Podkoljun bb, tel. +382 33
42 63 00, www.kombankbd.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00,
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Prva Banka B-3, Mediteranska 5, tel. +382 33 40 39
36, www.prvabankacg.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Beauty & Wellness
Energy Clinic A-4, Mediteranska 2 (Hotel Avala), tel.
+382 33 44 10 00, www.energyclinic.com. QOpen
09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
Hospitals & Clinics
Dom zdravlja Budva D-2, Popa Jola Zeca bb, tel. +382
33 45 35 01, dzb@t-com.me, www.dialysiscenter.me.
Insurance
Uniqa D-2, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 33 00,
www.uniqa.me. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Cl osed Sat,
Sun.
Laundry
Pingvin C-2, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 41 11.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Mail
Main Post Office (Pota Crne Gore) C-3, Mediteran-
ska 8, tel. +382 33 45 24 01, www.postacg.me. Also at
Budva Tennis Center E-3, Jadranski put bb, tel.
+32 68 41 50 41. Q Open: June - August 07:00-00:00,
September - May 08:00-22:00.
Montenegro Adventure Centre G-1, Lapii bb,
tel. +382 67 58 06 64, www.montenegrofly.com.
Paragliding and tandem flights, cycling, mountain biking,
walking, trekking, rafting, canyoning.
Montenegro Paragliding J-2, Slobode bb, Sveti
Stefan, tel. +382 67 81 10 91. Pragliding jumps from
Brajii (760m), for 60 (transport from and to you place of
stay included), CD with your jump video gratis.
Positive Fitness Club E/F-2, rtava faizma bb, tel.
+382 68 40 20 30. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
Water Sport E-4, Slovenska obala bb, tel. +382 67
62 24 36, www.watersportbudva.com. Different water
sport activities, such as: jet ski, parasailing, speed boats,
fly-fish, banana, tire etc. Also in MC Marina (Old Town) and
Splendid Hotel. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Sports
PORTO MONTENEGRO
BEAUTY AND WELLNESS
PURA VIDA DAILY SPA
Full range of beauty treatments as well as
on-call and yacht services. Porto Montenegro
Village Zeta, Tivat, puravida-spa.com, tel.:
+382 (0)63 240 202
HAIRDRESSERS
VLADO HAIR DESIGN
Cut, color and styling for both men and
women. Porto Montenegro Village Zeta,
Tivat, tel.: +382 (0)67 300 768
OPTICIANS
OPTIKA OKO
Stocking the latest designer sunglasses.
Porto Montenegro Village Tara, Tivat, tel.:
+382 (0)69 792 222
PHARMACIES
MAXIMA
Porto Montenegro Village - Teuta, Tivat, tel.:
+382 (0)32 540 240
the Bus station, as well as Podkoljun, Beii and Sveti Stefan.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Mobile Phones
Telenor B-3, Mediteranska 23, tel. +382 69 11 88,
budva@telenor.me, www.telenor.me. QOpen 08:00 -
20:00. Closed Sun.
T-Mobile B-3, Mediteranska 23, tel. +382 67 15 00,
call.centar@telekom.me, www.t-mobile.me. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Pharmacies
Aponia C-2, Popa Jola Zeca, Sportski centar 11, tel.
+382 33 45 50 82. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
62
INDEX
Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com
26th Theatre City 47
Admiral 18
Adria D.M.C. 10
Afrodita 50
Aleksandar 35
Alexandra 23
Amon 8
Aponia 58
Aquarius 18
Arena 40
Astoria 16, 27, 52
Avala 16
Babaluu 27
Bambini 50
Bambola 50
Beii 42
Bella 23
Bella Vista 16
Bojana 26
Bon Voyage 10
Bruno 27
Budva Marina 45
Budva Tennis Center 58
Bujkovi 26
Bus station 52
Camp Tipi Hostel 22
Captain 24
Casper Bar 38
Cattaro 52
Cesare 56
Chest O'Shea's Irish Pub 38
Church of St John the Baptist 44
Church of St Mary of Punta 44
Church of St Sabas the
Sanctified 44
Church of the Hol y Trinity 44
Citadella 56
City Car 10
City Club 27
Contessa 24
daMonte 24
Dancing Girl Statue 46
De Mode Shop 50
Dimpex 10
Discoteque Trocadero 40
Dona Kod Nikole 27
D & R 27
Earl y Christian Basilica 45
El Mundo Cocktail Bar 40
Energy Clinic 58
Euromoda 50
Evergreen 56
Fineso 20
Fontana 20
Fortaleza 40
Forza Cattaro 53
Forza Mare 52
Fratello 27
Galion 55
Garden Caffe 28
GG Souvenir Shop 50
Grbalj 20
Greco 38
Grill Bata Lim 28
Guvance 42
Hacienda 40
Hello 10
Hemingway 28
Hong Kong 28
Horoo (X) 36
Iberostar Bellevue 16
Invest Montenegro 24
Jadran 28
Jaz 42
Jeff 38
Juice Bar 28
Kamelija Shopping Centar 57
Kamenovo 42
Kangaroo 20
Komercijalna banka 58
Konoba Feral 30
Konoba Galeb 30
Konoba Stari Grad 30
Korkovado 40
Kosma Fortress 47
Kotorska Suvenirnica 57
Kovaevi 24, 26
Kuina 30
La Bocca 31
La Pasteria 55
Lisca 50
Lord 31
Luna Rossa 55
Lux 24
Maestral 16
Magic 10
Main Post Office (Pota Crne
Gore) 58
Mal tez 40
Maradona 10 30
Maroje Travel 10
Maximus 56
Max Prestige 20
MB IceClub 40
Mediteran 18
Mega Sport 51
Mena 20
Mikovi 26
Miloer 43
Mistica 50
Mixage 10
Mogren 20, 43
Mogren Fortress Ruins 46
Mojo Budva 22
Mona Lisa 31
Monte Cristo 53
Monteline Travel 10
Montenegro 18
Montenegro Adventure Centre 58
Montenegro Airlines 8
Montenegro Cruising 10
Montenegro Hostel Budva 22
Montenegro Hostel Kotor 54
Montenegro Paragliding 58
Moto Club BU-2 36
Mozart 36
Oaza 22
Obala 31
Odissey 22
Oko 50
Old Fisherman's Pub 31
Old Time Watch Shop 51
Old Town Hostel 54
Olimp 32
Oliva 22
Open Art Studio 46
Oregon 26
O Sole Mio 32
Pablo Picasso 32
Palazzo Radomiri 53
Paradiso 50
Paradiso Outlet 50
Parma 32
Perla 32
Perovi 26
Pilon 10
Pingvin 58
Pivnica Nik Gold 32
Pizana 43
Pizzeria Lav 32
Plaa Caf 36
Podgorica Airport (Aerodrom
Podgorica) 8
Polini 50
Porto 34
Porto Pizana 34
Positive Fitness Club 58
Praskvica Monastery 48
Promenade Food Stalls 30
Prometheus 10
Prva Banka 58
Prno 43
Queen of Montenegro 18
Rabello 34
Residence 18
Riardova Glava 43
Roman Necropolis 46
Roma Pub 56
R-Tours 10
ajo 22
Saki 24
Salus 24
Sambra 34
San Marino 34
Shanghai 34
Sil ver Holiday 10
Sixt 10
Sky Light 34
Slava 10
Slovenska Plaa 18, 43
Sparta 40
Splendido 53
Stevi 26
Sui 26
Sun Hostel 23
Sveti Nikola Island 43, 48
Svetionik 26
Sveti Stefan 43
Talas M 10
Tatjana 26
Telenor 58
Tenero Fashion 50
Terrae 10
Terrae Car 10
The Citadel 47
The Prince 40
Tivat Airport (Aerodrom Tivat) 8
T-Mobile 58
Tomy 26
Top Hill 40
Tourist Information Office 53
Tourist Organization of Budva
(Info Point 1) 8
Tourist Organization of Budva
(Info Point 2) 8
Tourist Organization of Budva
(Info Point 3) 8
Tourist Organization of Budva
(Info Point 4) 8
Tourist Organization of Budva
(Info Point 5) 8
Tourist Organization of Budva
(Info Point 6) 8
Tourist Organization of Budva
(Info Point 7) 8
Tourist Organization of Budva
(Turistika organizacija Budve) 8
Travel Centar 10
Tri Ribara 35
Trocadero Open Bar 40
Tropico 35
Tu Jewelry 51
Unico 50
Uniqa 58
Vardar 54, 56
Velon 26
Vila Balkan 26
Vila Panonija 54
Villa Centar 26
Villa Duomo 54
Water Sport 58
Women's Store 50
Zeleni Gaj 35
Zlatibor 35