Basics of Wave Motion

Basics of wave motion
Prof.V.Sundar, Dept.of Ocean Engg, I.I.T.Madras, India

1
BASICS OF WAVE MOTION

Prof. V. Sundar,
Department of Ocean Engineering, Indian Institute of Technology Madras,
INDIA
2.1 GENERAL:

Waves are periodic undulations of the sea surface, the complexity of which is most
challenging to those working in the oceans. They impose highly variable and fatigue type
loading on offshore and exposed coastal structures, and they may adversely affect coastlines
and harbor facilities and induce violent motions in moored ships and floating structures. The
designer of offshore structures must have a good understanding of the basics of wave
generation, its characteristics and behavior before evaluating forces and other potential effects.

Turbulent pressures fluctuations and variations in wind velocity cause an initial
disturbance of the sea surface, thus precipitating wave growth. The initial movement of the sea
surface is perpendicular to that of the wind, but it quickly aligns itself approximately with the
wind direction or some oblique angle to the wind. A light air movement of only two knots or
less will cause small ripples on the sea surface, which disappear immediately when the
generating wind stops. These ripples are associated with capillary force and are in conflict with
surface tension. As the wind speed increases, and if, it is of any duration, larger Gravity
waves begin to develop as the wave height builds up, and a more complex pressure
distribution forms at the surface. Normal stresses as well as tangential stresses now act on the
surface profile to further wave development. The exact way this growth begins is still not
completely understood. These are, however, many semiemperical relationships that describe
the growth of wind waves reasonably well. The ultimate state of wave growth depends
primarily on three parameters basic to wave forecasting: the fetch (F) or the distance over
which the wind blows, the wind velocity (V) and the duration (t) of time for which the wind
blows. Thus, for a given steady wind speed, the development of waves may be limited by the
fetch, or the duration. If however, the wind blows over a sufficient distance for a sufficient
length of time, a more or less steady state condition, where the average wave heights do not
change, will occur. This condition is called a fully developed sea (FDS). Waves moving out of
the generating area and are no longer subjected to significant wind action are known as swell.


It is important to distinguish between various types of water waves that may be
generated and propagated. Ocean waves are classified according to apparent shape, relative
water depth and origin. According to apparent shape, waves can be classified as progressive
and standing waves. Progressive waves may be oscillatory or solitary. According to relative
water depth two types namely small amplitude waves and finite amplitude waves exist. Finite
amplitude waves may be further classified as intermediate depth waves (Stokes wave) and
shallow water waves (cnoidal waves). Fig.2.1 shows the classification of ocean waves.

2

WAVES
According
To Apparent shape
According to relative
water depth
Progressive
waves
Standing waves
(Clapotis)
Small amplitude
waves (Airys theory
is used)
Finite Amplitude
waves
Oscillatory
waves
Solitary waves
Intermediate depth
waves (Stokes
waves)
Shallow water
waves
According to origin
b. Ultragravity
waves (Surface
tension and gravity
T upto 0.1 sec
a. Capillary
wave (due to
surface tension)
T upto 0.1 sec
d. Infra gravity waves
(stroms)
T = 30 sec to 5 min
c. Gravity wave
(wind)
T upto 30 sec

g. transtidal waves
(stroms, Tsunamis
due to under sea
explosives)
f. Ordinary tidal
waves (attraction of
astronomical bodies)
T = 12 hrs to 24 hrs
e. Long period waves
(stroms)
T = 5 mins to 12 hrs

Fig.2.1 Classification of Ocean Waves
3
The most fundamental description of a simple sinusoidal oscillatory wave consists of its
length, L or period, T and height, H. Small amplitude wave theory and some finite amplitude
wave theories can be developed by the introduction of a velocity potential (x,z,t). The
velocity potential, Laplaces equation and Bernoullis dynamic equation together with the
appropriate boundary conditions provide the necessary information needed in establishing the
small amplitude wave formulas.

The assumptions in deriving the expression for the velocity potential due to propagating ocean
waves are:
(a) Flow is said to be irrotational.
(b) Fluid is ideal.
(c) Surface tension is neglected.
(d) Pressure at the free surface is uniform and constant.
(e) The seabed is rigid, horizontal and impermeable.
(f) Wave height is small compared to its length.
(g) Potential flow theory is applicable.
(h) A velocity potential exists and the velocity components u and in the x and z directions
can be obtained as .
z
and
x

2.2 DERIVATION FOR VELOCITY POTENTIAL:

The governing equation is the Laplace Equation given by

0 (2.1)
2
=
The continuity equation and Bernoullis equation given by equations (2.2) and (2.3) are used in
the solution procedure

0
z
w
y
v
x
u
=
(2.2)

( ) 0 gz
p
w v u
2
1
t
2 2 2
= +
+ + + +

(2.3)
4

2.2.1 BOUNDARY CONDITIONS:

(1) The equation (2.1) is to be satisfied in the region < < x z d where is the
water surface elevation measured from the Still Water Level, SWL.
(2) The kinematic bottom boundary condition meaning, that the vertical velocity component at
the sea bottom is zero.
Since z is negative downwards from SWL
(3) The pressure at the free surface is zero or at z =
Linearising the Bernoullis equation results in
0 gz
p
t
= +

(2.4)
when z = and taking p = 0 using Eq. (2.4) we get

=

=
z
t g
1

This is the dynamic free surface boundary condition. Since we assume that amplitude of the
waves are small, the above equation can be written as
0 z
t g
1
=

= (2.5)
This is applicable only when is small and is valid for
L
H
and
d
H
< 1. The definition sketch
is given in Fig.2.2. With the above boundary conditions the solution to eqn.(2.1) is solved.

5
2.2.2 SOLUTION TO THE LAPLACE EQUATION:

0
z x
2
2
2
2
=

(2.6)

Method of separable is used to obtain the solution to Equ.(2.6).
Let us assume
( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) t T z Z x X t , z , x = (2.7)

Substituting Eq.(2.7) in Eq.(2.6) we get

0 T " Z X T Z " X = +
Where each prime denotes differentiation once with respect to the particular independent
variable.
Z
Z
X
X
gives T Z
" "
= X Dividing both sides of the above

Let this be a constant = -k
2
.
0 X k " X
2
= + Then (2.8)
0 Z k " Z
2
= (2.9)
kx sin B kx cos A X + =
kz kz
e D e C Z

+ =
( ) ( )

Hence,
( ) ( ) t T De Ce kx sin B kx cos A t , z , x
kz kz
+ + =
The solutions to are simple harmonic in time requiring T (t) be expressed as cos(t) or
sin(t),thus leading to four forms of solutions to , such that

6
t sin . kx cos
kz
De
kz
Ce
4
A
4
t cos . kx sin
kz
De
kz
Ce
3
A
3
t sin . kx sin
kz
De
kz
Ce
2
A
2
t cos . kx cos
kz
De
kz
Ce
1
A
1

+ =

+ =

+ =

+ =

2.2.3. DETERMINATION OF THE CONSTANTS:

The constants are determined by using the dynamic free surface boundary condition
and the kinematic bottom boundary condition.
Considering
2

t sin . kx sin
kz
De
kz
Ce
2
A
2

+ = (2.10)

Applying, the kinematic bottom boundary condition,
d z at 0
z
= =

i.e.,
0 t sin . kx sin
kz
Dke
kz
Cke
2
A
d z
z
2
=

=
=

A
2
0, sinkx . sint 0 [since velocity potential exists]

Substituting for C in eq.2.10 and simplifying,
( ) ( )
t sin . kx sin
2
z d k
e
z d k
e
kd
De
2
A 2
2

+
+
+
=
( ) t sin . kx sin z d k cosh De A 2
kd
2 2
+ = (2.11)

and ( ) t cos . kx sin . kd cosh e D A 2
t
kd
2 0 z
2
=

=

7

On assuming,
get we
t g
1
condition
boundary surface free the applying and
2
H
amplitude wave a , where , t cos . kx sin a
0 z
2

=
= = =
=

asinkx.cost =
g
e D A 2
kd
2

coshkd. Sinkx. Cost
2A
2
De
kd
=
kd cosh
1
.
ag

Substituting in eq.(2.11), we get

(2.12)
t cos . kx sin
kz
De
kz
Ce
3
A
3

+ =
( )
t sin . kx sin .
z d k cosh
.
ag +
kd cosh
2

=

Let us consider
3

(2.13)
Applying the kinematic bottom boundary condition
[ ] 0 t cos . kx sin Dke Cke A
z
kd kd
3 d z
3
= =

=

A
3
0, sinkx.cost 0

C = De
2kd

Substituting for C in eq. (2.13)
( ) ( ) t cos . Sinkx z d k cosh De A 2
kd
3 3
+ = (2.14)

and t sin . kx sin . kd cosh e D A 2
t
kd
3 0 z
=

=

On assuming and applying free surface boundary condition t sin . x sin a =
=
kd cosh
1
.
ag
De A 2
kd
3

8
Substituting this in eq.(2.14), we get

(2.15)
( )
t cos . kx sin .
kd cosh
z d k cosh ag
3

+
=

( ) t sin . kx cos De Ce A
kz kz
4 4
+ =

(2.16)

( )
kd 2
kd kd
4 d z
4
De C
t sin . kx cos De Ce A
z
=
=

=

Substituting for C in eq.(2.16)
( ) t sin . kx cos . z d k cosh De A 2
kd
4 4
+ = (2.17)
and
( ) t sin . kx cos . z d k cosh . De . A 2
t
kd
4 0 z
4
+ =

=
) 5 . 2 ( . eq applying and t cos . kx cos a =

Assuming
We get 2A
4
De
kd
=
kd cosh
1
.
ag

Substituting this is eq.(2.17), we get

(2.18)
( ) t cos . kx cos De Ce A
kz kz
1 1
+ =

( )
t sin . kx cos .
z d k cosh ag
4
kd cosh

+
=
(2.19)
kd 2
d z
1
De C
0
z
=
=

=

Substituting for C in eq.(2.19)
( ) t cos . kx cos . z d k cosh . De . A 2
kd
1 1
+ = (2.20)
Assuming = acoskx.sint and applying eq.(2.5)
9

kd cosh
ag
De A 2
kd
1

=
Substituting this in eq.(2.20)

(2.21)

( )
t cos . kx cos .
kd cosh
z d k cosh
.
ag
1

+
=

If
+
=
2
-
1

( )
[ ] t sin . kx sin t cos . kx cos .
kd cosh
z d k cosh
.
ag
+
+
=

(2.22)
) t

This is the expression for the velocity potential for a propagating wave in a constant water
depth.
Since
0 z
t
.
g
1
=

=
) t kx sin( .
kd cosh
) z d ( k cosh
.
ag
.
g
1

+
=
Hence
(2.23)

is periodic in x and t. If we locate a point and traverse along the wave, such that, at all time
t our position relative to the wave form remains fixed then the phase difference is zero or
(kx - t) = constant.
And the speed with which we must move to accomplish this is given by kx = + t Constant.
=
dt
dx
k

or C
T
L
2
L
.
T
2
k dt
dx
= =
=
kx cos( .
kd cosh
.
) z d ( k cosh ag

+

=
) t kx sin( a =
10

= =
T
L
C CELERTY or Speed of the wave (2.24)

Wave moving in ve x direction

1 2
+ =
=
( )
) t kx cos( .
kd cosh
t kx k cosh
.
ag
+
+

0 z
|
t
.
g
1
=

=
( )
+
+
= )) t kx sin( .(
kd cosh
z d k cosh ag
g
1

= a sin (kx + t)
To obtain the celerity of the wave we have
kx + t = Constant

C
T
L
k dt
dx
=
=

= (2.25)

2.3 DISPERSION RELATIONSHIP :

The relationship between wavelength, period and water depth is obtained as given below. The
main assumption while establishing the relationship is that, since, we are dealing with small
amplitude waves, meaning that the slope of the wave profile are small so that

dt
d
can be
approximately said as equal to the vertical component velocity, w. This is,

11

t
x
.
x t dt
d
w
=

Wave slope being small by setting

0
x

t
w

=
But
z
w

=

Hence,
z t

=

(2.26)

Differentiating Eq. (2.22) we get

0 z
2
2
t
g
1
t
=

Hence,

( ) t kx cos . kd cosh
g
A
t
2

=

(2.27)

Where
kd cosh
1
.
g
2
.
H
A=

k A
z
w =

= sinhkd. cos (kx-t) (2.28)

Using the relation of Eq.(2.26), equating Eq. (2.27) to Eq. (2.28)
We get
=
) t kx cos( . kd cosh
g
A
2
A k.sinhkd. cos (kx-t)

12

kd cosh
kd sinh k
g
2
=

or the dispersion equation can be written as

tanhkd . gk
2
= (2.29)

: Wave angular frequency =
T
2
and k: wave number
L
2
=

The above equation can be written as

kd tanh .
2
gL
T
L
kd tanh .
L
2
g
T
2
2
2

(2.30)

The speed at which a wave moves in its direction of propagation as a function of water depth is
given by Eq. (2.30)
T
L
C= Since , from the above equation we get
kd tanh .
2
gL
C
=
kd tanh .
k
g
2
C =
(2.31)

or kd tanh .
2
gT
L
2
= (2.32)

13
Since the unknown L occurs on both sides (Implicit Eq.) of Eq.(2.32), it has to be solved by
trial and error.

2.4 CELERITY IN DIFFERENT WATER DEPTH CONDITIONS:

Classification of waves according to water depth is made with respect to the magnitude of d/L
and the resulting limiting values taken by the function tanh (kd) given in Table 2.1.
Table 2.1 Classification of ocean waves according to water depth.

Classification d/L

L
d 2

L
d 2
tanh

Deep waters

Intermediate Waters

Shallow waters
>1/2

2
1
to
20
1

>

20
1
<
to
10

10
to 0

~ 1

L
d 2
tanh

~
L
d 2

The variation of the hyperbolic functions shown in Fig.2.3 against d / L
o
permit us the
determination of L and the needed hyperbolic functions.

14
Deep water conditions:

In the case of deep waters Eq. (2.30) becomes

=
2
gL
C
o
o
since, tanhkd = 1
and Eq. (2.31) becomes

=
2
gT
C
o
(2.33)

or
=
2
gT
L
2
o
(2.34)

That is, when
2
1
L
d
, tanh(kd) approaches unity and the wave characteristics are independent
of the water depth, d, while wave period remaining constant. Hence,

2
2
o
T 12 . 5
2
gT
L =
= feet [FPS]

2
2
o
T 56 . 1
2
gT
L =
= meters [MKS]

If Eq. (2.33) or (2.34) are used to compute wave celerity for shallow water conditions (d/L <
1/20) an error of about 20% to 50% results. This is illustrated with a worked out example at the
end of this chapter.

Shallow Water Conditions:

When
20
1
L
d
,
10
kd
=

15
) kd ( tanh .
2
gL
C
2
=
Here tanhkd ~
L
d 2
kd

=

L
d 2
.
2
gL
C
2

=

C
2
= gd

gd C= (2.35)

This relation shows that when a wave travels in shallow waters, wave celerity depends only on
the water depth.

Relationship between d/L and d/L
o

It can be shown by dividing Eq. (2.31) by Eq. (2.33) and dividing Eq.(2.32) by Eq. (2.34) that

. kd tanh
L
L
C
C
o o
= =

then ,
L
d
Multiplying both sides by

kd tanh
L
d
L
d
o
= (2.36)

The relation between
o
L
d
and
L
d
is given in the Wave Tables, given in Appendix A.

16

2.5 LOCAL FLUID PARTICLE VELOCITIES AND ACCELARATIONS UNDER
PROGRESSIVE WAVES:

In the evaluation of wave forces on offshore structures it is desirable to know the fluid
particle kinematics, that is, velocity and acceleration.

We know

( t kx cos .
kd cosh
) z d ( k cosh
.
ag

+
= ) (2.37)

The horizontal water particle velocity or orbital velocity, u is given by

( )
( ) t kx sin .
kd sinh
z d k cosh
. k .
ag
x
u
+

= (2.38)

The horizontal water particle velocity or orbital velocity, u is given by

( )
( ) t kx sin . kd tanh .
kd sinh
z d k cosh
. k .
ag

+
=

k
g
C
2
= tanh kd (Eq. 2.30) and
2
H
a = Substituting the relationship
In the above expression we get

( )
( ) t kx sin .
kd sinh
z d k cosh
k C .
2
H
u
2 2

+
=

( )
( )
( )
( ) t kx sin .
kd Sinh
z d k cosh
T / 2
L / 2
T
L
2
H
2 2

+
=

Simplifying, we get,
17

( )
( t kx Sin .
kd Sinh
z d k cosh
.
T
H
u
+
= ) (2.39)

The vertical fluid particle velocity, w is given by

z
w

=
( )
( t kx cos .
kd cosh
z d k sinh
.
agk

+
= ) (2.40)

( )
( ) t kx cos . kd tanh .
kd sinh
z d k sinh
.
agk

+
=
using eq. (2.30) we get

( )
( ) t kx cos .
kd sinh
z d k sinh
.
T
H
w
+
=

) t kx cos( .
kd sinh
) z d ( k sinh
.
T
H
w
+
= (2.41)

The above equations express the velocity components with in the wave at any depth z. At a
given z, the velocities are seen to be harmonic in x and t.
At a given phase angle , ( = kx - t) the hyperbolic functions of z (cosh and sinh) cause an
exponential decay of u and w with distance down from the free surface. This is indicated
schematically in Fig.2.4 for the phase angles at which the components are largest. The
variation of u and w with respect to phase are shown in Fig. 2.5.

18

The local acceleration in x and z directions are given by
) t kx cos( .
kd sinh
) z d ( k cosh
.
T
H 2
t
u
u
2
2
.

+
=
= (2.42)
) t kx sin( .
kd sinh
) z d ( k sinh
.
T
H 2
t
w
w
2
2
.

+
=
= (2.43)

The expressions for the fluid particle kinematics reported above is for to water surface
elevation, being a Sinus curve. The fluid particle kinematics for being a cosine curve are
given below.

The can also be derived as
) t kx sin( .
kd cosh
) z d ( k cosh
.
ag

+
= (2.44)
In which case
= a cos (kx-t) (2.45)

) t kx cos( .
kd cosh
) z d ( k cosh agk
u
+
= (2.46)

19
) t kx sin( .
kd cosh
) z d ( k cosh
agk u
.

+
= (2.47)

) t kx sin( .
kd cosh
) z d ( k sinh agk
w
+
= (2.48)
) t kx cos( .
kd cosh
) z d ( k sinh
agk w
.

+
= (2.49)

2.6 WATER PARTICLE DISPLACEMENT UNDER PROGRESSIVE WAVES:

The expressions for individual horizontal and vertical water particle displacements is obtained
as follows.

) t kx cos( .
kd sinh
) z d ( k cosh
.
2
H
udt
x

+
=
= (2.50)

) t kx sin( .
kd sinh
) z d ( k sinh
.
2
H
wdt
z

+
=
= (2.51)

2
B
z
) t kx (
2
sin :
2
B
x
) t kx (
2
cos
kd sinh
) z d ( k sinh
.
2
H
B where ) t kx sin( B
z
kd sinh
) z d ( k cosh
.
2
H
D where ) t kx cos( D
x

=
+
= =
+
= =
Let
Since, [sin
2
(kx-t) + cos
2
(kx-t) = 1], we have

1
B
z
D
x
2 2
=

(2.52)

20
This is the equation of an ellipse showing that that water particles, move in an elliptical orbit.

Where D = Semi major axis (horizontal measure or particle displacement)
B = Semi minor axis. (vertical measure of particle displacement)

Shallow water condition:

For ) z d ( k cosh have we ,
20
1
L
d
+ < 1
Sinh k(d+z) k(d+z)
Sisnh kd kd
Hence,
d
) z d (
2
H
kd
) z d .( k
.
2
H
B
kd
1
.
2
H
D
+
=
+
=
=

Hence, the water particles move in elliptical orbits (paths) in shallow and intermediate waters
with the equation of the form

(2.53)
1
z ( H 1 H
=
+
+
d
) d
2
z
kd 2
x
2 2

Deep Water Condition:
For the case
2
1
L
d
>
D =
kd sinh
) z d ( k cosh
2
H +

=
( ) ( )
+ +
kd kd
z d k z d k
e e
e e
.
2
H

21
As d (depth of water or d/L) is very large e
-k(d+z)
and e
-kd
will be very small compared to e
k(d+z)
Hence,

( )
kz
kd
z d k
e
2
H
e
e
2
H
D = =
+

Similarly,
kz
e
2
H
B=
Thus, the water particles move in circular orbits in deep waters (since D = B) with equation of
the form

(2.54)

This shows that for deep-water conditions, the water particle paths are circular. The amplitude
of the water particle displacement decreases exponentially along the depth and in deep water
regions. The water particle displacement becomes small relative to the wave height at a depth
equal to one half the wavelength below the SWL. The variation of the water particle
displacements under different water depth conditions is illustrated in Fig.2.6.
1
e
2
H
z
e
2
H
x
2
kz
2
kz
=

Approximate Solution to the Dispersion Equation:
An approximate solution for wave number, k in the dispersion relationship given by eq.(2.29)
for a given and d proposed by Hunt (1979) can be solved directly for kd.
22

( )
+
+ =
=
6
1 n
n
n
2 2
Y d 1
y
y kd (2.55)
Where y = d k
g
d
o
2
=
and
d
1
= 0.6666666666 , d
2
= 0.3555555555
d
3
= 0.1608465608 , d
4
= 0.0632098765
d
5
= 0.0217540484 , d
6
= 0.0065407983

The wave celerity can be obtained as
[ ]
1
1 5 4 2
2
) y 0675 . 0 y 0864 . 0 y 4622 . 0 y 6522 . 0 1 ( y
gd
C

+ + + + + = (2.56)

Which is accurate to 0.1% for 0<y<.

2.7 PRESSURE DISTRIBUTION UNDER PROGRESSIVE WAVES:

The linearised Bernoullis equation is given by
0 gz
q
p
t
= + +

Multiplying through out by , the total pressure is given as,
) z (
t
p +

=
(Dynamic) + (Static)
Substituting for from eq.(2.22), we get
z ) t kx sin( .
kd cosh
) z d ( k cosh
.
2
H
p
+
=

p
K
kd cosh
) z d ( k cosh
let and ) t kx sin(
2
H
=
+
=
Where K
p
is the pressure Response factor, then,
23

P = K
p
-z

Or ( z
p
K
p
=
) (2.57)

It is to be mentioned that p was set to zero to define the free surface boundary condition in the
Bernoulli equation. However, was determined by setting p=0 at z=0 instead of z = [Refer
Eq.2.5]. Hence, eq.(2.57) is valid only for negative z.
Applying Eq. (2.57)

Pressure at z = 0, =
p

Pressure at z = -d, d
kd cosh
p
+
(2.58)
That is, [d + + <
d ]
kd cosh

Since, cosh kd is always greater than 1.

Under the trough at seabed
Conditions are
z = -d, = -
Substituting
kd cosh
1
kd cosh
) d d ( k cosh
p
K =
=

and = -. Hence from eq.(2.57)
d
kd cosh
p
+

=
(2.59)
) d (
kd cosh
d
p
>

24
It is often needed to determine the surface wave height based on subsurface
measurement of pressure. For this purpose Eq.(2.57) is represented as

( )
gK
gz p N
+
=
Where K is pressure response factor at the seabed given by
kd cosh
1
.
N is the correction factor depending on the period, depth, wave amplitude, etc.
N > 1 for long period waves
N < 1 for short period waves
N = 1 for linear waves.
The pressure distribution under a progressive wave is given in Fig.2.7.

2.8 GROUP CELERITY:

25
When a group of waves or a wave train travels, its speed is generally not identical to the speed
with individual waves within the group travel. If any two wave trains of the same amplitude,
but, slightly different wavelengths or periods progress in the same direction, the resultant
surface disturbance can be represented as the sum of the individual disturbances. For waves
propagating in deep or transitional waters, the group velocity is determined as follows.

) t x k sin( a ) t x k sin( a
2 2 1 1 2 1 T
+ = + = (2.60)

= t
2
x
2
k k
sin . t
2
x
2
k k
cos a 2
2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1
T

This is a form of a series of sine waves the amplitude of which varies slowly from 0 to 2a
according to the cosine factor.
The points of zero amplitude (nodes) of the wave envelope
T
are located by finding the zeros
of the cosine factor.

i.e.,

2
) 1 m 2 ( t
2
x
2
k k
when occurs 0
2 1 2 1
max T
+ =

=
( )

In other words, the nodes will occur on x axis at distances as follows:

t
k k k k
1 m 2
X
2 1
2 1
2 1
node

+
=
Since the position of all the nodes is a function of time, they are not stationary. At t=0, there
will be nodes at
,...... 3 , 2 , 1 , 0 m at . e . i . etc ,
k k
5
,
k k
3
,
k k
2 1 2 1 2 1
=

The distances between the nodes are given by

1 2
2 1
2 1
L L
L L
k k
2
x
= (2.61)
26

The speed of propagation of the nodes and hence the speed of propagation of the wave group
is called the Group Velocity and is given by:

+ = + = =
= =

=
=
dL
dk
1
dL
dC . k
C
dK
dC
. k C
dk
) KC ( d
C
T
2
T
L
.
L
2
. C . K But
dk
d
k k
C Velocity Group Wave
dt
dx
G
1
2 1
G
node

Since,
L
2
k

=

+ =
2
G
L
2
1
dL
dC
.
L
2
C C
dL
dC
. L C C
G
=
) kd tanh( .
k
g
2
= C Since

Substituting and on simplification we get

(2.62)

+
kd
kd 2
1
1
G
= =
2 sinh 2
n
C
C

For Deep waters, zero is
kd 2 sinh
kd 2

Hence,
o G
C
2
1
C =

o
o
G
C
2
1
T
L
2
1
C = =
27
(2.63)

The Group Celerity is one half of the phase velocity in deep waters. Further, it should be noted
that variables if associated with a suffix o refer to deep-water conditions. For example, C
o
is
deep-water celerity.

Table. 2.2 Variation of Asymptotic Functions

Asymptotes Function
Shallow waters Deep waters
sinhkd

coshkd

tanhkd
kd

1

kd
2
e
kd

2
e
kd

1

In shallow waters, since sinh 2kd = 2kd
gd C C
G
= = (2.64)

Hence, in shallow waters the group and phase velocities are same and is a function of only
depth of water and in deep waters, the C
G
is a function of wave length. Because of this, in
deep waters, the longer waves (long L) travel faster and produce the small phase differences
resulting in wave groups. These waves are said to be dispersive or propagating in a dispersive
medium, i.e., in a medium, where, their Celerity is dependent on wave length.
2.9 WAVE ENERGY

Total Energy = Potential energy + Kinetic energy.
28

In order to determine the total energy under progressive waves, the potential energy of the
wave above z=-d with a wave form present is determined from which, the potential energy of
the water in the absence of a wave form is subtracted. Refer Fig.2.8 for definitions.
The potential energy (with respect to z=-d) of a small column of water (d+) high, dx
long and 1 m wide is

+
+ =
=
2
d
) d ( . dx
x A dPE
1

( )
dx .
2
d
2
+
(2.65)

The average potential energy per unit surface area (sometimes called the average potential
energy density) is
=
+ + L x
x
2
T t
t
1
dt . dx . ) d (
T
1
L
1
2
PE

The integration is from a time t over a wave period, T and from a certain distance x over a
distance x + L.
=
+ + L x
x
2
T t
t
1
dt . dx . ) d (
LT 2
PE
becomes ) 66 . 2 ( . eq ), t kx sin( a
(2.66)

Using =

+ +
=
+ + T x
x
2 2 2
T t
t
1
dt . dx )] t kx ( sin a ) t kx sin( ad 2 d [(
LT 2
PE

On simplification

29
4
a
2
d
PE
2 2
1

+
= (2.67)

Which is the average potential energy per unit surface area of all the water above z = -d.
The potential energy in the absence of a wave would be
=
+ + L x
x
2 2
T t
t
2
. 2 / d dt . dx d
LT 2
PE (2.68)

The average potential energy density, PE which is attributable to the presence of the
progressive wave on the free surface, is
2
d
4
a
2
d
Energy Potential Average PE PE PE
2 2 2
2 1
=
= =

4
a
PE
2
= (2.69)

Kinetic Energy
2
1
The kinetic energy, KE = mv
2
, where m is the mass of the fluid and v is the resultant
velocity. For a 2-D wave flow (Refer Fig.2.7 for definitions)

( ) dx . dz w u
2
1
dM w u
2
1
) KE ( d
2 2
2
2 2
+ =
+ =

The average K.E. per unit of surface area is then given by
30

+ +
d
2 2
L x
x
T t
t
dt . dx . dz ) w u (
LT 2
KE

with ) t kx sin( a =
[ ]
+ + +
+ + 0
d
2 2 2 2
2 2
2
L x
x
T t
t
dt . dx . dz ) t kx ( cos ). z d ( k sinh ) t kx ( sin ) z d ( k cosh
kd cosh
) agk (
LT 2
KE

Using the trignometrical identities
[ ]
[ ]
1 ) t kx ( sin ) t kx ( cos
) t kx ( cos ) t kx ( sin ) t kx ( cos
) z d ( k 2 cosh 1
2
1
) z d ( k sinh
) z d ( k 2 cosh 1
2
1
) z d ( k cosh
2
2 2 2
2
2
= +
=
+
= +
+ + = +

sinh2kd = 2sinhd.coskd
and = gk tanhkd
2

it can be shown
4
a
KE
2
= (2.70)
KE + PE Total Energy E =
2
2
a
E = (2.71)
The average total energy per unit surface area is the sum of the average potential and kinetic
energy densities, often called as specific energy or energy density.

2.10 WAVE POWER:

31
Wave energy flux is the rate at which energy is transmitted in the direction of wave
propagation across a vertical plane perpendicular to the direction of the wave advance and
extending down the entire depth. The average energy flux per unit wave crest width
transmitted across a plane perpendicular to wave advance is
P = Wave Power = Average energy flux per unit wave crest width

g
C E nc E P = = (2.72)

where n =
+
kd 2 sinh
kd 2
1
2
1

For Deep Waters
o G
C
2
1
C and 0
kd 2 sinh
kd 2
= =
n =
2
1

or
o
o o
C E
2
1
P = (2.73)

For Shallow Waters

g
C E C E P = = (since sinh2kd = 2kd)

Assume the wave propagates from deepwater towards the shore. The ocean bottom slope is
gradual and there are no undulations and has parallel bottom slope contours. Accordingly to
the conservation of energy, equating the power in the shallow waters (Eq.2.72) to that in deep
waters (Eq.2.73) we get

2
C
.
8
H
C .
8
H
o
2
o
G
2

=

On substituting for C
G
and on simplification we obtain

+
=
kd 2 sinh
kd 2
1
1
C
C
H
H
o
2
o

s
K
n 2
1
.
C
o
C
o
H
H
= =
or
32

(2.74)

where ,

+ =
kd 2 sinh
kd 2
1
2
1
n

The above equation giving the ratio between wave height at any water depth in shallower
waters and the deep-water height. This relationship obtained without considering the irregular
variation in the sea bottom contours is called as shoaling coefficient. The variation of the
different properties of small amplitude waves are shown in Fig.2.9.

2.11 MASS TRANSPORT VELOCITY

When waves are in motion, the particles upon completion of each nearly an elliptical or
circular motion would have advanced a short distance in the direction of propagation
33
(Fig.2.10).Consequently there is a mass transport in the direction of progress of the wave. The
mass transport velocity at any depth z below S.W.L is given as

kd sinh
) z d ( k 2 cosh
.
2
C
L
) z ( u
2
2
+

= (2.75)
The mass transport speed is appreciable for high steep waves and is very small for waves of
long period.

2.12. IMPORTANT WEB ADDRESSES
www.coastal.udel.edu/faculty/rad/wavetheory.html
http://bigfoot.wes.army.mil/cem001.html

WORKED OUT EXAMPLES on WAVE MECHANICS

Problem 1

A wave flume is filled with fresh water to a depth of 5m. A wave of height 1m and period, 4
sec. is generated. Calculate the wave celerity, group celerity, energy and power.

Solution: -

34
m 21 . 22 L
2003 . 0
L
d
to ing correspond 2251 . 0
L
d
' Tables Wave ' From
2003 . 0
96 . 24
5
L
d
m 96 . 24 ) 4 ( 56 . 1 T 56 . 1 L
kd tanh
L
d
L
d
o
o
2 2
o
o
=
= =
= =
= = =
=

Celerity = sec / m 55 . 5
4
21 . 22
T
L
= =

Group Celerity =
+
kd 2 sinh
kd 2
1
2
C

=
+
436 . 8
83 . 2
1
2
52 .

= 3.71 m/sec.

Energy = m / kg 125
8
2
) 1 ( 1000
8
2
H
=

Power = sec / kg 75 . 463 71 . 3 125
G
8
2
H
= = C

PROBLEM 2

Oscillatory surface waves were observed in deep water and the wave period was found to be
6.7 sec.
(i) At what bottom depth would the phase velocity begin to be changed by the
decreasing water depth.
(ii) What is the phase velocity at a bottom depth of 15.3 m and 3.06 m.
(iii) Compute the ratio of Celerity at the above water depths to the deep water celerities.

SOLUTION: -

(i) m 03 . 70 7 . 6 56 . 1 T 56 . 1 L
2 2
o
= = =

The celerity will change, when water depth is less than
m 01 . 35
2
03 . 70
2
L
o
= =

(ii) At d = 15.3 m
35

2185 . 0
03 . 70
3 . 15
L
d
o
= =

From Appendix A (Wave tables) corresponding 2408 . 0
L
d
=
Hence L = m 54 . 63
2408 . 0
3 . 15
=

Celerity = sec / m 48 . 9
7 . 6
54 . 63
T
L
= =

At d =3.06 m

0437 . 0
03 . 70
06 . 3
L
d
o
= =
Corresponding 0871 . 0
L
d
=

Hence m 13 . 35
0871 . 0
06 . 3
L = =

. sec / m 24 . 5
7 . 6
13 . 35
T
L
= = Celerity =

907 . 0
7 . 6 56 . 1
48 . 9
T 56 . 1
48 . 9
C
C
o
=

= (iii) At d = 15.3, ratio

At d = 3.06, ratio 501 . 0
7 . 6 56 . 1
24 . 5
T 56 . 1
24 . 5
C
C
o
=
=
PROBLEM- 3
A wave flume is filled with fresh water to a depth of 5m. A deep-water wave height 2m and
time period, 4 sec. is generated. For a given n=0.6689, calculate the wave celerity, group
celerity, energy and power.

From tables, for n = 0.6689

36
m H
H
H
Cg
T L C
T
T L
L L
L
d
L
d
o
o
o
83 . 1 2 * 9179 . 0
9179 . 0
72 . 3
57 . 5 /
sec 4
56 . 1
29 . 22 12 . 25
2243 . 0 1990 . 0
2
0
= =
=
=
= =
=
=
= =
= =

Energy = m kg
H
/ 6 . 418
8
) 83 . 1 ( 1000
8
2 2
=

Power = sec / 22 . 1557 72 . 3 * 6 . 418
8
2
kg
H
G
= = C

PROBLEM 4

A wave of height 3m and period, 6 sec. is generated. Calculate the wave celerity, group
celerity, energy and power in water depths, 2m, 5m and 10m.
Solution: -
d=5 m
089 . 0 01313
' '
089 . 0
16 . 56
5
16 . 56 ) 6 ( 56 . 1 56 . 1
tanh
2 2
= =
= =
= = =
=
o
o
o
o
L
d
to ing correspond
L
d
Tables Wave From
L
d
m T L
kd
L
d
L
d

n=0.8290 L=38.08

sec / 34 . 6
4
08 . 38
m
T
L
= = Celerity =

Group Celerity = C * n
= 6.34*0.8260
= 5.26 m/sec.

d=2m
37
0356 . 07748 . 0
' '
0356 .
16 . 56
2
16 . 56 ) 6 ( 56 . 1 56 . 1
tanh
2 2
= =
= =
= = =
=
o
o
o
o
L
d
to ing correspond
L
d
Tables Wave From
L
d
m T L
kd
L
d
L
d

n=0.8290 L=25.81 m

Celerity = sec / 30 . 4
4
81 . 25
m
T
L
= =

= 4.30 * 0.9289
= 3.99m/sec.

d=10m
2066 . 0 01780 . 0
' '
1780 . 0
16 . 56
10
16 . 56 ) 6 ( 56 . 1 56 . 1
tanh
2 2
= =
= =
= = =
=
o
o
o
o
L
d
to ing correspond
L
d
Tables Wave From
L
d
m T L
kd
L
d
L
d

n=0.6946 L=48.40

sec / 06 . 8
4
40 . 48
m
T
L
= = Celerity =

= 8.06*0.6946
= 5.59m/sec.
38

PROBLEM 5

Consider a particle initially 3.06m below the SWL and 12.24 m above the sea bed. After the
wave motion is established, what is the size and character of the orbit of the particle. Repeat
the calculations for the particle at the surface and the other at the sea bed. T = 6.7 sec. and H
o

= 3.06 m.

Solution: -
Water depth, d = 3.06 + 12.24
= 15.3m
L
o
= 1.56 T
2
= 70.03 m

2185 . 0
03 . 70
3 . 15
L
d
o
= =

.
2
1
L
d
20
1
< < The wave is in intermediate water depth condition The particles will move in
elliptical orbit.
2185 . 0
L
d
for 9227 . 0
H
H
and 2408 . 0
L
d
o o
= = = From Appendix A,
i.e., H = 0.9227 * 3.06m = 2.8235 m
099 . 0
L
2
=
: kd = 1.515 L = 63.6m : k =
Sinhkd = 2.16

At z = -3.06 m
kd sinh
) z d ( k cosh
2
H +
Semi Major axis (D) =
= 1.1923m
kd sinh
) z d ( k sinh
2
H +
Semi minor axis (B) =
= 0.9969 m.

At the surface, z = 0

m 555 . 1
kd sinh
kd cosh
2
H
D = =

39
m 4117 . 1
kd sinh
kd sinh
2
H
B = =

At the sea bed, z = -15.3 m

m 6536 . 0
16 . 2
1
*
2
8235 . 2
D = =

0 0 *
2
H
B = =

The water displacements at the three different levels are illustrated in the Fig. below.

PROBLEM 6
The semi major axis and semi minor axis are 1.1m and 1.0m at z = -2m. Calculate the water
depth, time period, wave height corresponding to this, as well as deep water wave height when
k = 0.14 and also find the displacement at z=-5 m, at sea bed and at free surface.

Solution: -

4222 . 0
4180 . 0
, 14 . 0
=
=
=
L
d
L
d
table from
k for
o

H/H
O
=0.9795

L
K
2
=
L=44.87
4222 . 0 =
L
d
40

d = 19m

4180 . 0 =
o
L
d

Lo=45.45 m
T=5.45 sec

At z = -2

Cosh k(d+z) = 5.44, sinh kd = 7.113

m
kd
z d k H
D 1 . 1
sinh
) ( cosh
2
=
+
=
1 . 1
113 . 7
44 . 5
*
2
=
H

H =2.87m
(we can also use the semi minor axis to find the H value)

H
0
= H/0.9795
H
0
=2.93m

At the, sea bed z = 0

m
kd
z d k H
D 44 . 1
sinh
) ( cosh
2
=
+
=
m
kd
z d k H
B 435 . 1
sinh
) ( sinh
2
=
+
=

At the surface, z = -19 m

m D 20 . 0
113 . 7
1
*
2
87 . 2
= =
0 0 *
2
H
B = =
Z=-5 m
Cosh k(d+z) = 3.62 sinh k(d+z) = 3.47

kd sinh
) z d ( k cosh
2
H +

41
= 0.730m
Semi minor axis (B) =
kd sinh
) z d ( k sinh
2
H +

= 0.700 m.
PROBLEM 7

Consider a particle initially 5m below the SWL and 20 m above the sea bed. After the wave
motion is established, what is the size and character of the orbit of the particle. Repeat the
calculations for the particle at the surface and the other at the sea bed. L=33m and a=2 m

Solution: -
Water depth, d = 5+ 20
= 25m

7575 . 0
33
25
= =
L
d

.
2
1
>
L
d
The particles will move in circular orbit. The wave is in deep water depth condition
7600 . 0 9994 . 0 75745 . 0 = = =
o o
L
d
for
H
H
and
L
d
From Appendix A,
i.e., H = a*2 = 4m
190 . 0
2
=
L
: kd = 4.75 L = 33m ; k =

Z=-5 m
kd sinh
) z d ( k cosh
2
H +
= 0.774m
Semi minor axis (B) = 0.774 m.(since deep water)

At the surface, z = 0

m
kd
kd H
D 2
sinh
cosh
2
= =

(since deep water) m B 2 =

At the sea bed, z = -25 m

m D 034 . 0
79 . 57
1
*
2
4
= =
42

0 0 *
2
H
B = =

Problem 8

For a wave of height 2m and period 7 secs, plot the variation of orbital velocity and
acceleration in the vertical and horizontal directions of a particle at a position 4m below SWL
and 20 m above the sea bed. Estimate the maximum velocities at this position, at SWL and at
the sea bed.

Solution:

( )
m 96 . 73 L , 325 . 0
L
d
ing correspond
314 . 0
7 * 56 . 1
24
T * 56 . 1
24
L
d
m 2 4 20 d
2 2
o
= =
= = =
= + =

At z =-4.0 m

Kd = 2.039, cosh k(d+z) = 2.826, cosh (kd) = 3.907
Sinh k(d +z) = 2.643, sinh (kd) = 3.776

Substituting the values in the expressions for u and w (eq.2.39 & 2.40)

. sec / m 628 . 0
776 . 3
643 . 2
7
2
w
. sec / m 672 . 0
776 . 3
826 . 2
7
2
u
max
max
=

=
=

=

2
2
2
max
o
2
2
2
max
o
s / m 564 . 0
kd sinh
) z d ( k sinh
T
H 2
w
s / m 603 . 0
kd sinh
) z d ( k cosh
T
H 2
u
=
+
=
=
+
=

43
At z =0.0

Coshk(d + z) =3.907, sinh k(d + z) = 3.776

. sec / m 898
776 . 3
776 . 3
7
2
w
. sec / m 929 . 0
776 . 3
907 . 3
7
2
u
max
max
=

=
=

=

2
max
o
2
max
o
s / m 805 . 0 w
s / m 833 . 0 u
=
=

At z = -24.0

Coshk(d +z) = 1.0, sinh k(d +z) = 0.0

0
max
w
2
s / m 213 . 0
max
u
. sec / m 238 . 0
776 . 3
1
7
2
u
max
=
=
=

=
o
o

. sec / m 0 . 0 0 . 0
7
2
w
max
=

=

0 90 180 270 360
-1.0
-0.5
0.0
0.5
1.0
0 90 180 270 360
-1.0
-0.5
0.0
0.5
1.0
u

m
/
s
e
c
0 90 180 270 360
-1.0
-0.5
0.0
0.5
1.0
w

m
/
s
e
c
0 90 180 270 360
-1.0
-0.5
0.0
0.5
1.0
U

m
/
s
e
c
0 90 180 270 360
-1.0
-0.5
0.0
0.5
1.0
W

m
/
s
e
c
2
o
(m)
44
The phase variation of u, w, are shown in the figure below.
w
and u
o
o

Problem 9

Determine the maximum orbital velocities and accelerations in the horizontal and vertical
directions of the particle at a position (i) 3.06m below SWL and 12.24 above the sea floor (ii)
at SWL and at the sea bed for H = 2.82 m and T = 6.7 sec.

Solution:

kd sinh
) z d ( k cosh
.
T
H
u
max
+
=

kd sinh
) z d ( k sinh
.
T
H
w
max
+
=

kd sinh
) z d ( k cosh
.
T
H 2
u
2
2
.
+
=

kd sinh
) z d ( k sinh
.
T
H 2
w
2
2
.
+
=

d = 3.06 +12.24 = 15.3 m
L = 63.587m, kd = 1.512, sinh kd = 2.157

Using the appropriate expressions

For z = -3.06m : cosh k (d+z) = 1.825, sinh k (d+z) = 1.527

. sec / m 049 . 1
157 . 2
527 . 1
7 . 6
82 . 2
w
. sec / m 119 . 1
157 . 2
825 . 1
7 . 6
82 . 2
u
max
max
=

=
=

=

2
max
.
sec / m 049 . 1
157 . 2
825 . 1
7 . 6 7 . 6
82 . 2 2
u =

=

2
max
.
sec / m 878 . 0
157 . 2
527 . 1
7 . 6 7 . 6
82 . 2 2
w =

=

45
Similarly

at z = 0.0 : cosh k (d+z) =2.378, sinh k(d+z) = 2.157

sec / m 322 . 1 w sec, / m 457 . 1 u
max max
= =

2
max
.
2
max
.
sec / m 24 . 1 w , sec / m 367 . 1 u = =

at z =15.3: cosh k(d+z) = 1.0, sinh k(d+z) = 0.0

0 . 0 w , sec / m 613 . 0 u
max max
= =

0 . 0 w , sec / m 57 . 0 u
max
.
2
max
.
= =

Problem -10

A wave with a height, 5.5m and period, 8 secs propagates in a water depth of 15m. Determine
the local horizontal and vertical velocities at a depth 3m below the SWL when phase angle is
60
o
.

Solution :

z =-3m, d = 15m, T = 8 sec., kd = 1.152, L = 81.79,
Cosh k(d+z) = 1.456, sinh kd = 1.425
Sinh k(d+z) = 1.058

+
= sin .
kd sinh
) z d ( k cosh
.
T
H
u

+
= sin .
kd sinh
) z d ( k sinh
.
T
H
w

Subsituting the corresponding values in the above expressions at

o
60 =

911 . 1 60 sin
425 . 1
456 . 1
8
5 . 5
u =

= m/s

46
where as,

. sec / m 21 . 2 u
max
=

. sec / m 8 . 0 60 cos
425 . 1
058 . 1
8
5 . 5
w =

=

where as,

. sec / m 604 . 1 w
max
=

Problem 11

A wave of height 5.5m and wave length of 81.79m propagates in a water depth of 15m.
Determine the local horizontal and vertical velocities at depth 3m below the SWL at a position
one fifth ahead of the wave crest.

Solution:

For L = 81.79 m, d=15m, kd = 1.152
= m 358 . 16 79 . 81
5
1
L
5
1
Phase angle at
o o o o
162 90 72 360
79 . 81
358 . 16
= + = =

At z = -3m,

Cosh k(d+z) = 1.456, sinh kd = 1.425
Sinh k(d+z) = 1.058

Using the expressions for u and w

. s / m 68 . 0 ) 162 ( sin
425 . 1
456 . 1
8
5 . 5
u =

=

Similarly for w

( ) . sec / m 5216 . 1 162 cos
425 . 1
058 . 1
8
5 . 5
w + =

=

47

Problem 12

A wave of height H = 3m and wave period T = 10s, propagates in a water depth of
12m, the corresponding deep-water wave height H
o
= 3.5m. Estimate,
(a) The horizontal and vertical displacements from its mean position at z = 0 and
Z=-d.
(b) The maximum water particle displacements at a depth of 7.50m below SWL,
Where the wave is in deep water.
(c) For the deep water conditions of above show that the water particle
Displacements are small relative to the wave height at
2
o
L
z =
(d) Also, compare the water particle displacements in deep water conditions for the
corresponding deep-water wave height, H
o
= 3.5m and wave period T = 15s at z =
-7.5m

Solution:-

Given Data
Wave height, H = 3m
Wave period, T = 10s
Deep water wave height, H
o
= 3.5m
(a) The maximum horizontal (D) and vertical (B) displacements of water particle.
L
o
= 1.56 T
2
= 1.56 (10)
2
= 156m.
07692 . 0
156
12
Lo
d
= =

m 58 . 99
1205 . 0
12
1205 . 0
d
L 1205 . 0
L
d
= = = = From table

0631 . 0
58 . 99
2
L
2
K =
=

tanh kd = tanh (0.0631 x 12) = 0.6394
sinh kd = sinh (0.0631 x 12) = 0.8316

@ z = 0

( )
kd sinh
z d k cosh
2
H
D
+
=

( )
. m 34 . 2
6394 . 0
1
2
3
kd tanh
1
2
H
kd sinh 2
kd cosh
2
H
0 z D
=
= = = =


( )
2
0 . 3
2
H
kd sinh
kd sinh
2
H
kd sinh
z d k sinh
2
H
B = = =
+
=
= 1.5m.

@ z = -d = -12m

m 80 . 1
8316 . 0
1
2
3
kd sinh
1
2
H
D =
= =
B = 0

B=1.50m
B = 0
D = 180m
Z = -d
D=2.34m

Z = 0

(b) In deep water conditions, at z = -7.5m
( ) ( )
m 2938 . 1
5 . 7 0402 . 0
e
2
5 . 3
z
o
k
e
2
o
H
B D
0402 . 0
156
2
o
L
2
o
K
=

= = =
=
=

2
o
L
(c) In deep water conditions at z =
48
17D
D
B
17B
Z=-7.5m
Z=-78m=
2
0
L
( ) [ ]
. m 07562 . 0
78 0402 . 0
e
2
5 . 3
z
o
k
e
2
o
H
B D
m 5 . 3
o
H
m 78
2
156
z
=

= = =
=
=
=

So, it is inferred that for deep-water conditions the particle displacements are very small at
Compared with z = -7.5m.
m 78
2
156
z =
=
D 17 1092 . 17
07562 . 0
2938 . 1
=

49

(d) T = 15s, H
o
= 3.5m.
L
o
= 1.56 T
2
= 1.56 (15)
2
= 351m
K
o
= . 0179 . 0
351
2
o
L
2
=

At z = m 5 . 175
2
351
2
o
L
=

( ) ( ) 5 . 175 0179 . 0
e
2
5 . 3
z
o
k
e
2
o
H

= D = B =
= 0.07563m.

at Z = -78m

( ) ( ) 78 0179 . 0
e
2
5 . 3
z
o
k
e
2
o
H

=
( )
D = B =
= 0.43318m.

07563 . 0
43318 . 0
m 5 . 175
2
o
L
Z at
nts Displaceme vertical and Horizontal
m 78 Z at
nts Displaceme vertical and Horizontal
=
= =
=

= 5.72 6
Hence, the displacements of the water particle at Z = -78m are approximately six times
the displacements at Z = . m 5 . 175
2
o
L
=

If z=-0.2depth, for T=15secs and 10secs, B=D=1.67m for the former and B=D=1.37m for the
later, indicating that the displacement for longer period wave, the displacement is more.

Problem 13
Aerial photographs of a coastal line displayed the presence of two wave systems. One with
crests 60m apart and another with crests at 12m spacing. Timing of major breaking on the
beach in the same period indicated the wave period to be10 sec., for the longer wave. What
50
was the depth of water in the zone of wave observation and what was the period of the minor
wave system?
Solution:
L
major
= 60m : L
minor
= 12m
T
major
= 10 sec.
) kd ( tanh
2
2
gT
L
=
) kd ( tanh .
2
10
*
2
g
60
=
tanh (kd) = 0.3840
Corresponding to this value, from the wave tables d/L = 0.06478
Since L
major
= 60 m
d = 0.06478 * 60 = 3.89m
= d *
L
2
tanh
2
gT
L
2
or min
or min

= 98 . 3 *
12
2
tanh *
2
2
or min
gT
12
sec 8 . 2
97 . 0 * 8 . 9
24
or min
T =
=

Problem 14
Ocean waves measure 90m from crest to crest when travelling at a point at a speed of 32
km/hr. Find the depth in the ocean at this point and the period of waves. If the waves were
fully grown and their steepness, H/L = 1/23, what is the wave height?

Solution:
L = 90m
hr / km 32
T
L
=
. sec 1 . 10
32000
60 * 60 * 90
32
L
T = = =
sec / m 89 . 8 18 / 5 * 32 hr / km 32 C = = =
89 . 8 kd tanh
2
gL
C =
=
i.e. 012 . 79
2
) 89 . 8 (
2
kd tanh gL
= =

Therefore 5629 . 0
90 * 8 . 9
* 2 * 012 . 79
kd tanh =
=
Corresponding kd from wave tables = 0.6366
m 1186 . 9
2
90 * 6366 . 0
d =
=
23
1
L
H
=
m 913 . 3
23
90
23
L
H = = =

Problem 15
If a pressure sensing instrument is set up at 4m below SWL in a water depth of 20m, determine
the phase distribution of pressure head this instrument would record. Plot this pressure head
against phase and compare this result to the phase variation of hydrostatic pressure. The wave
height is 2m and period is 10 sec. and = 1020 kg/m
3
.

Solution:
The pressure head under a progressive wave is
z
p
K sin
2
H p

For T = 10 sec, d = 20 m
L is calculated as 121.24m
k = 0.0519 kd = 2/L * d = 1.037
51
52
859 . 0
587 . 1
364 . 1
) 20 * k ( cosh
)) 4 20 ( k ( cosh
kd cosh
) z d ( k cosh
p
K = =
=
+
=
Dynamic pressure head , =
sin * 859 . 0 *
2
0 . 2 p

2
m / Kg 876 1020 x 1 x 859 . 0 x
2
0 . 2
p , ssure Dynamicpre = =
= 0.876 m of water column.
Total Pressure , p =
2
m / kg 18 . 4956 1020 x 4 859 . 0 sin
2
2
=

Hydrostatic pressure head = 0.5*H*sin - z

For T = 5 sec., d = 20 m, d/L = 0.5, L = L
o
= 39
k = 2/39 = 0.1611, kd = 3.22
( ) [ ]
( )
( )
52 . 0
54 . 12
6 . 6
) 222 . 3 ( cosh
578 . 2 cosh
20 * 1611 . 0 cosh
4 20 1611 . 0 cosh
p
K = = =
=
2
m / kg 73 . 538 1020 x sin 5282 . 0 *
2
0 . 2
P essure Pr Total =
=
Note:
For a wave period of 5 secs the total pressure is less when compared to the wave period of 10
sec for the other conditions NOT being changed.
So, For longer waves the pressure is more

Problem 16
A subsurface pressure type recorder is installed at a depth of 6m at the point where water depth
is 8m. The average maximum pressure and the period registered by the recorder are 3060
kg/m
3
and 9.2 sec respectively. Compute , = 1020 kg/m
3
.

Solution:

k = 0.0823
53
[ ]
[ ]
8276 . 0
8 * 0823 . 0 cosh
) 6 8 ( 0823 . 0 cosh
p
K =
=
z
p
K
p
=

) 6 ( 8276 . 0 *
1020
3060
=
8276 . 0
1
. 6
1020
3060
=
= - 3.62 m
Note: Problem incorrect due to wave breaking condition

Problem 17
An average maximum pressure of 12500 kg/m
2
is measured by a sub surface pressure recorder
located at 0.6m above the sea bed in a water depth of 12m. The average wave frequency is
0.0666 cycles/sec. and = 1025 kg/m
3
. Determine the wave height.

Solution:
z
p
K
p
=

The maximum pressure would occur at
= H/2 (Crest of the wave)
p
max
= 12500, = 1025, z = - (12 0.6) = -11.4 m
m 6 . 157 L ., sec 15
0666 . 0
1
T = = =

8952 . 0
1174 . 1
0003 . 1
12 *
6 . 157
2
cosh
4 . 11 12 ( *
6 . 157
2
cosh
p
K = =
=

Substituting for the variables in the above formula

54
( ) 4 . 11
2
H
* 8952 . 0
1025
12500
=

Hence H=1.78 m

Problem: 18

Water depth,d =12m, Wave period, T=10sec and Wave height, H=1.0m
(a) Calculate mass transport velocity, u(z) for z=0 to d and find out the effect of z/d on u(z)
(b) d=12m, T=10sec and H=0.5 to 9m at 0.5m interval. Find the effect of H/L on u(z) at z=0.0
(c) d=12m, H=2.0m and T=5 to 15sec at every 1sec interval. Find the effect of d/L on u(z) at
z=0.0

Solution:
kd
2
sinh
) z d ( k 2 cosh
2
C
2
L
H +

Mass transport velocity u(z) = m/sec

(i) Effect of z/d on u(z):
Fig.1 shows the variation of u(z) with respect to the various values of z/d. It is
observed that the mass transport velocity decreases with increase in z/d values. i.e the mass
transport velocity decrease from the free surface towards the sea bed.

(ii) Effect of H/L on u(z):
Fig.2 shows the variation of u(z) with respect to the various of H/L. From the plot, it is clear
that u(z) increases with increase in H/L values. This means that, as the wave height increases
the mass transport velocity also increases.

(iii) Effect of d/L on u(z):
Fig.3 shows the variation of u(z) for various values of d/L. The plot shows that with increase
in d/L values u(z) also increases. If wave period increases, then the mass transport decreases.
55

0.04 0.08 0.12
d/L
0.00
0.10
0.20
U
(
z
)

m
/
s
e
c
0.0 0.1 0.1
H/L
0.0
1.0
2.0
U
(
z
)

m
/
s
e
c
0.0 0.5 1.0
z/d
0.000
0.010
0.020
U
(
z
)

m
/
s
e
c
Fig.1 Variation of U(z) with z/d
Fig.2 Variation of U(z) with H/L
Fig.3 Variation of U(z) with d/L
d=12m, T=10sec , H=1.0m
z=0.0 to d @ 1m interval
d=12.0m, T=12sec, z=0.0
H=0.5 to 9m @ 0.5m interval
d=12.0m, H=2.0m, z=0.0
T=5 to 15sec @ 1 sec interval
For Clarifications and comments if any contact the author at
vsundar@iitm.ac.in

Basics of Wave Motion

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= X Dividing both sides of the above

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