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Contents

Short Story
Story Encounter
Malifaux Strategies
Crew Tactics
Terrain Building
Accursed Preview
Seasons Review
Competitive Painting
Painting The Depleted
October 2013
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Copyright Wyrd Miniatures, LLC
Contents
Contributors
Volume 8
Editing and Layout:
David Hanold
Writers:
Justin Gibbs
Adrian Scott
Graeme Stevenson
Redd Cohen
Michael Kelmelis
David Herbert
Ross Watson
Wojtek Tekielski
Mark Rogers
Graphic Design:
Redd Cohen
Contributing Artists:
Melvin de Voor
Stephane Enjoralas
Hardy Fowler
Christophe Madaru
Pablo Quiligotti
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Welcome to the eighth installment of the Wyrd Chronicles! We have a lot of exciting things for you this
issue, from terrain building to a new story encounter. But, I want to talk about a change we are making to
the Chronicles as a whole.
Starting with this issue, we will begin featuring material and games from other companies. The Chronicles
will, of course, remain an excellent source of Wyrd-related articles. We strive to include as many or more
articles on Wyrd products as we have always done. However, we will begin doing reviews of other games
as well.
The logic behind this is simple; the more people we have reading the Chronicles, the better it is for us,
because it features our games prominently. And as we feature more games and add a wider variety of
articles, we will gain a wider variety of readers. And we give you, the reader, more articles to enjoy. This
whole prospect is a little experimental, because we will be actively promoting companies and games who
may compete with us. However, I firmly believe that what is good for the industry as a whole is good for us
all. So long as people are going into stores, playing games, talking about games, and buying games, we all
benefit. And I am lucky enough to work for a company that is willing to give this idea a shot.
I want to say up front that all of our reviews will be positive ones. Its tacky to review another companys
product and give it a bad review. Additionally, I think people are more interested in what is exciting and
fun, and I see no reason to waste space with bad reviews. That said, we will only review games which we
genuinely think are good and which we enjoy.
We are kicking this endeavor off with an inside look at the Accursed Kickstarter by Ross Watson and his
team, and a review of the game Seasons by Redd Cohen. If this goes over well, expect to see more of this
in future issues. Tell your friends and spread the word, the Wyrd Chronicles is a free, general gaming
magazine which covers more things than just Malifaux (but dont worry, we have plenty of Malifaux).
Finally, if you have a product which you would like us to review, email Justin@wyrd-games.net.
Enjoy!
By: Justin Gibbs
Changes
-Justin Gibbs
Copyright Wyrd Miniatures, LLC
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By: Graeme Stevenson
In Pursuit of Happiness
Sticky Bill ran.
He ran fast, skinny legs knifng up and down, rubber-
soled shoes thumping the dirt. Te alley stretched away
in front like a narrow fnger, black as tar the only
light was the moon refected in the puddles he splashed
through.
Sticky Bill was no stranger to running; hed been running
all his life in one manner or another. Mostly on account
of his sticky fngers, but there were other things equally
catalytic of his sharp exit; things like commitment and
responsibility.
It wasnt that he was afraid of such things, merely that
he considered them disagreeable on the whole and
contrary to the manner in which he liked to conduct
his afairs. And when it came to the manner in which
he liked to conduct his afairs that mostly involved him
grabbing something and retreating.
Unscientifc though this approach may seem to the
layman, it had proven extremely efective over the
years. It was astonishing how much revenue a quick-
footed thief could generate if he were to hang around
an opportunistic neighborhood. And by opportunistic
he meant rich.
Any number of wealthy industrialists wives could be
found at this hour of the evening, literally dripping with
emeralds, diamonds, gold and pearls and all it took
was a nimble half-second with a sharp knife or a pair
of shears and he was away down this alley, over that
wall, through a derelict basement and gone beyond all
hope of capture.
Mr. Flavio was most obliging when it came to the re-
settlement of wayward items of jewelry, most obliging
indeed. Why, it almost seemed his civic duty to fnd
a new home for all those bracelets, necklaces, and
pendants that became separated from their former
owners and were desirous of a new home.
In the last six months in particular, Sticky Bill had
earned such an amount of scrip (and that was at little
more than a ffh of his sparkles actual worth rot that
pinching beggar Flavios soul) that he had begun idle
speculation into his retirement plans. He was only four-
and-thirty, but already his hidey-hole under the brick
mantle of his safe house had grown a prodigious nest
egg. Another year, perhaps even less, and he would buy
his ticket back Earth-side and, whats more, hed come
back through that Breach a gentleman.
He ran on, his wind pufng out through drawn pock-
marked cheeks.
Tats right a gentleman, with fne cotton and silk
about him and a watch chain and a top hat shiny with
mercury and perhaps even a cane. Hed have means and
the lower orders would tip their caps to him and have
not the slightest thought he was anything less than a
proper lad.
Hed have port and sherry with every meal, and a
beautiful hourglass wife with eyes like sapphires, and
perhaps even a town house where
A bullet shrieked along the alley and a chunk of brick
exploded at his ear.
Instinctively, he switched direction and few along a
side-alley between two crooked slums, so narrow as to
skim his shoulders on both sides as he ran. He vaulted
a heap of rags and newspaper and a few seconds afer
that scrabbled over a rude fence of old splintery wood
and wire.
Te sounds of pursuit were still behind him, but more
distant. Tis was always the way. Teyd give chase for
a short spell with a good deal of bluster and shouting,
enough to put on a show of efort for the disadvantaged
lady, you understand, then theyd head back with a
rueful shake of the head and send an urchin to fnd a
Guardsman. It was the accepted order of things.
Te lady would take a snort of brandy to soothe her
nerves and her rich industrialist husband would buy
her an even more lavish and exquisite piece to replace
the stolen one. Everyone was happy.
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Another shot rang out as Bill reached the end of the
alley and he swerved lef onto a larger street, racing past
dawdling couples and rows of futtering orange gaslights.
He knew this area well this was Coddle Street a low-
to-middle class run of tenement residences and modest
shops.
A half-block or so further on, he could take a right into
Fiddlers Den, a claustrophobic knot of side-streets and
tiny courtyards where a hundred enterprising thieves at
once could lay low without a hope of being found.
Hed duck in there, fnd a likely spot and catch a short
snooze. By the time he woke itd be well afer midnight
and even the most determined gentleman pursuer
would have long since retreated to the comfort of the
nearest club to spin his wildly-embellished yarn.
Only, his gentlemen pursuers seemed particularly
committed this evening. Tey had come steaming out
of the alley mouth, pistols in hand, racing afer him
with a grim and evident determination.
Te opal necklace was heavy in his coat pocket, but hed
stolen far more valuable things in his time and never
been chased with such passion. Perhaps it was an object
of particular sentimental value, or the lusty gentlemen in
question had in mind more than just a ladys gratitude.
Whatever their motive, he was resolved not to fnd out.
He put on a burst of speed, his heels fying over the
cobbles as he made for Fiddlers Den.
As Bill drew within ten yards of his salvation, a third
gentleman carrying a long rife stepped from the
entrance to the Den right in front of him and raised the
weapon without hesitation.
Like a jack-rabbit, Sticky Bill swerved away on refex
and ran the width of Coddle Street, vaulting a low iron
railing and raced into Turnbull Lane.
Where had that fellow with the rife come from? Bill
could scarcely believe it less than two minutes since
he had snatched that willowy ladys necklace and he had
somehow been cut of. How could the rifeman have got
there so fast, and as calm as he was? Whats more, hed
had no hint of a fushed face or ragged breath which
a normal man would surely have displayed afer such
a desperate run. Hed have had to run as though the
Death himself was on his trail to have reached Fiddlers
Den before Sticky Bill.
No, Bill was more of a mind that the fellow had been
there all along, waiting. But how could that be? Who
could have known hed make straight for Fiddlers Den?
Turnbull Lane was far less to his liking it was much too
well-lit and ran straight for over a hundred yards with
nothing but high un-scalable walls on both sides. He
could hear boots pounding on the cobbles behind him
they sounded closer than before but he was certain it
was just the lane funneling the sounds of their pursuit.
He risked a glance over his shoulder and saw all three
fgures in hot pursuit, the two pistoliers and now the
rifeman, running with a steady measured pace that
seemed almost efortless despite their heavy-looking
greatcoats and boots.
He considered tossing down the opal necklace then,
to secure his getaway, but the thought of it stuck in his
throat. Hed never been caught once at this game and
would be damned if hed be collared now.
Te end of the lane was drawing near. Tis place was well
known, too: to his right was Sturgeon Cross and then
Rottenrow Quay by the river, too much open ground
and exposure for his liking, even at night. No, he would
take a lef at the end of the lane, along Cove Walk where
the loose and broken cobbles were an ankle-breaking
nightmare for the uninitiated, up the Hundred Stairs,
past the statue of Magdalene Barrow, and if his pursuers
had the wind to follow him that far, he would take to the
Bread Vaults, soot-smeared caverns that were the bones
of a massive bakery, burned down untold years ago.
He was scant feet from the lane mouth when a titanic
noise almost knocked him of his feet. Te wall to his
lef immediately bulged outward and shattered, toppling
forwards and burying Cove Walk under tons of black
brick and dust. Bill caught the faintest suggestion of a
shape huge, humanoid coming through the wall and
he immediately cut to his right, dodging the bouncing
bricks that scattered around him.
He ran faster and harder than he ever had in his life
before; forgetting the necklace in his pocket and the
three men pounding afer him his immediate and
overbearing concern to escape the artifcial landslide
that was taking place behind him. Tat sound an
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instant before the wall exploded had sounded
almost almost like a shout.
He pounded down to Sturgeon Cross, head back, elbows
high, arms and legs pumping. Te thunderous deluge
behind him did not abate instead the rumble became
a heavy rhythmic pounding that sent shock waves up
through his feet to rattle his skull.
He dared not look back to see what behemoth had now
joined the chase but as he skirted through the busy
Cross, he saw a hundred astonished faces staring back
the way he had come, and when he swerved around an
immobilized hearse (the horses were shying), in the
polished side window he saw the refection of a giant
fgure loping afer him, smeared with blue and red light.
Saints an Lords protect me, he gasped, his legs
becoming a blur as terror lent fresh speed to his fight.
People were shouting and scattering behind him as he cut
through the Cross, half-fell down a dozen cobble steps
and took of along the wooden front of Rottenrow Quay.
He was accustomed to running prided himself on
great reserves of stamina, in fact but the strangeness
of his pursers and this latest absurd twist had disturbed
him greatly. His heart was running much too quick and
he could feel the fear soaking up the strength in his legs,
leaving a rubbery infrmity.
He had to go to ground, and soon.
And out here was probably the worst place to try and
fnd a hiding spot. To his lef, the quay spread a crazy
array of plank jetties out onto the dark river, most of
which held a moored ship. To his right were netted piles
of crates, none higher than a man and widely spaced.
Tere were no more alleys or basements, nothing under
him but wood and the mud of the riverbed, nothing
around but open air. He couldnt shake the feeling that
he had been driven here deliberately herded to this
wooden platform with the stairs in plain view and his
back to the river. Bill was no swimmer and the thought
of leaping into that churning black water was even
worse than capture.
Hed been fushed out like a grouse and run to ground
by those trench-coated dogs. His pursuers his hunters
would be at the top of the stairs already; whichever
way he turned they would see and they would run him
down.
Or so they thought. Sticky Bill still had one trick up
his sleeve.
He ran as far as he dared along the quay (the planking
was uneven and spongy with rot in places) and then
swerved to his right, skidding to a panting halt behind
a mound of crates in their cargo net. Te rope net was
as thick as his wrist and stank of river mud; the crates
within marked with some unintelligible dialect.
Te thumping footsteps had slowed and given ground
as he entered the quay, but he could hear them again
now something enormous and heavy was coming
down the cobble steps.
He sneaked a quick peek around the edge of the crate pile.
At frst he thought it was a machine, like those huge
clanking Guild things that sometimes patrolled
Curmudgeon Square outside the Guild ofces, but as it
drew closer he saw it was a woman - a woman wearing
a massive armored suit. It must have been ten feet tall,
with a fat iron chimney emerging from its back and
venting a curious purple exhaust. In fact, the entire
mechanism gave of a queer blue-purple blush, ofering
weak illumination to the dark riverside.
Tree fgures followed it down his gentlemen pursuers,
he reckoned. He saw them defer up to the mechanized
woman. She spoke to them briefy and Bill strained his
ears, but the distance swallowed the sense of it. Tey
turned and lost themselves among the crate piles and
the woman continued along the quay. She took careful
slow steps while the quay planking protested loudly at
her mechanized weight, but her attention was fxed on
Bills hiding place.
Well, he thought, she might have seen him duck in here,
but that wasnt to say hed still be here when she arrived.
It was a curious and ultimately fortuitous skill that he
had inherited on his journey through the Breach. Back
Earth-side he had been a moderately good thief and
a better runner. In Malifaux he had discovered a new
string to his criminal bow.
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Te frst time it happened was an accident he was
asleep at the time and was woken with a bump when
he hit the foor. Most people fall out of bed he fell
through his.
With a few more false starts, he got a grasp on his new
ability and began putting it to good use. He found
that it worked best if he imagined the surface he was
pressed against as a fower with its petals folded, and
then he imagined those petals opening, well, a strange
sensation and a few moments later he was standing on
the other side.
It didnt always work the denser and thicker the
barrier, the harder the challenge. A single layer of porous
brick was manageable, but a heavy stone wall was as
impenetrable a barrier to him as to any other common
thief. Wood was easy, though. He could slip through a
closed door or a fence with barely a moments pause.
Te gnarled old planks of the quay shouldnt prove
much more difcult.
He crouched and took a deep breath if there was water
under the quay he didnt want to drown himself for want
of a lung full of air. Te familiar fower image formed in
his mind and he focused on it, imagining the layers of
petals slowly beginning to slide back.
Te warped planking underfoot sofened, then became
insubstantial. He closed his eyes despite the mechanized
womans heavy footsteps being almost upon him and felt
himself starting to slip. His body was sinking, sliding
down through the planks like a hot stone melting
through snow.
Te womans voice flled the air she shouted in a
language Bill had never clapped ears on in his life and
his downward progress halted abruptly. One moment
the fower was almost fully open the next it had
vanished from his mind and all sense of dislocation had
been ripped away.
He shrieked when he felt the biting pressure on his legs and
looked down, expecting to see an alligator or some other
swamp critter gripping him in its jaws. Instead he saw
his knees and shins vanishing into the twisted boards of
the jetty. He had been stopped less than halfway through
the boards and had fused with the wood. He could feel it
grinding against the bones of his legs.
Saints an Lords! he howled, gripping at his legs. Me legs!
Te woman stood over him, unmoved and frowning
through delicate half-moon glasses. Te massive
suit around her hummed, radiating heat and a faint
electrical crackling.
You led me quite a chase, she said. I thought at one
point you were going to make that lef on to Cove Walk.
Me legs! he shrieked again, scrabbling at the splintery
boards.
Yes, youve mentioned that, she said.
Her three gun-dogs appeared out of the dark, the
rifeman resting his weapon over a shoulder.
You were right, Hannah, the rifeman said, chuckling.
He did go for Fiddlers Den.
Of course he did, she said with eyes still on the sobbing
thief.
Von Schill has been afer this guy for months, the
rifeman continued, and you catch him in one night?
Its a simple matter of probabilities, the mechanized
woman said. Any animal will go for cover in a pinch
and when you close of its bolt-hole itll run anywhere
you like in its eforts to escape. All I had to fgure out
was where to place the lure.
Sticky Bill wasnt so agonized as to miss this last
inference and avarice made him reach for the sparkle
in his pocket. By the light of the mechanized suit, he
saw that the necklaces heavy opals as they really were
varnished pebbles. He threw it down with venom.
You tricked me! he said.
Dont fatter yourself, Hannah snifed. It wasnt that hard.
Teres a lot of people afer this fellow, the rifeman
said. Quite a pay-day for the Freikorps.
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Te woman made a gesture and one huge mechanized
hand reached down and smashed through the planking,
the other gripped Bill around the middle. He cried out
as he was uprooted from the quay, a jagged fringe of
wood projecting out around his fused legs.
Doesnt look like youll be doing any more running for
a while, Sticky Bill, Hannah said as the suit hissed and
whined, lifing the squirming thief overhead.
Wait! Wait! Bill exclaimed, wrestling futilely with the
thick steel fngers around his middle. I have money! A
lot of money! Its yours if you let me go!
Te woman looked at him, her quick eyes meeting his
and seeming to drink him in.
Let me go and Ill tell you where to find it, he
babbled. Cunningly hidden, mind you youll never
find it unless...
... under the third brick on the right hand side of the
hearth, Hannah said, her eyes like black pools sucking
the images from Bills head. Tey fashed before his
eyes as they passed. Te upstairs hearth. Last house
on Crookmonger Alley. It has a mark scratched on the
door, like a sideways S.
Bill goggled at her, his jaw hanging slack. She had taken
it taken it right out of his head.
What what are you? he whispered.
Not to be trifed with, Hannah
replied tartly, turning to her waiting
Freikorpsmenn. Olaf, see to that, will
you?
With pleasure, he said and loped of in
the direction of Crookmonger Alley.
Lets go, Bill, Hannah said, striding
back towards the cobble steps and
the city. I have a number of wealthy
clients who are very eager to meet
your acquaintance.
Im ruined, Bill wailed. He would
never be a gentleman now.
Oh I dont know, Hannah said, looking pointedly at the
wooden fringe around his shins. Your thieving days
may be over, but you look to me as though youve got all
the makings of a fne fence.
Bills curse was drowned out by the laughter of the other
Friekorpsmenn.
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Copyright Wyrd Miniatures, LLC
Happy Halloween
With the Halloween and Harvest season right around the corner, it is once again time to kick things off
with our most popular painting contest, The Rotten Harvest!
Round about the paint pot go. On the palette throw
Royal blue and blood red. Thirty-seven Days of Dread;
Double, double toil and trouble; Fire burn, and paint pot bubble.
The contest runs from September 25th through October 31st. Entries can be submitted at any time during
the contest. Voting will occur from November 1st - 7th, done anonymously through the Wyrd forums.
Also, during voting, anyone may leave comments and critiques, which previous entrants have appreciated.
The winners will be announced soon after the voting ends, and Wyrd will send prizes to those winners,
along with random prizes that we give away with every contest.
Te specifc rules for the contest can be found under Contest Rules and Info. Everyone should read the rules,
because we want to avoid any misunderstanding of the contest, including the theme and disqualifying criteria.
Due to the sheer number of people that have entered unedited photographs in the past we will no longer
do any editing for you. There are many free photo re-sizing programs out there. Wyrd staff will attempt to
notify anyone whos pictures were deleted due to size or for any reason, but can not guarantee notification.
Witches and Warlocks Spellcasters of all sorts, from high fantasy, modern day dabbler to
the far sci-f future. If they carry a wand, cast a spell or even have a hint of mysticism to
them, this is the category for them.
Not Quite Dead Yet Still stumbling around afer all the major organ functions have shut
down? Have a beef with the living? Tis category is for the Undead, or as they like to be
called Living Impaired.
Tings that go Bump in the Night Creatures, critters, monsters and other things that have
a tendency towards anti-social behavior and prowl the night looking for victims. Caution,
here be Monsters!
Te Trick or the Treat Tis is our catch-all category as there are some miniatures that
are just right for the theme but just dont seem to fall into any other category. Zombie
Hunters, pumpkin characters, and certainly several miniatures we never would have even
contemplated.
Te Harrowing Harvest A diorama with two or more miniatures locked in combat, or
something as equally disturbing.
Te categories for the contest are:
10
Setup
Randomly determine an attacking player and
defending player. After choosing deployment
zones, the defender places five 30mm pumpkin
markers. One of the pumpkin markers must have
a distinctive mark on the bottom. Which pumpkin
marker has the mark is hidden from all players. One
marker must be placed in the center of the board.
Three may be placed anywhere on the board at least
8 from the defenders deployment zone and at least
6 from another pumpkin marker. The final marker
must be placed anywhere on the attackers half of
the board, at least 6 from another pumpkin marker,
not in terrain. A bag of Halloween candy (or other
suitable consumable item ) must be available to
all players.
Special
Models from either Crew may perform a (1) Interact
Action while in base contact with a pumpkin marker
to remove it from play. When the noted pumpkin
marker is removed from play, the defender places a
Carver in base contact with the model which took
the interact Action. The Carver is considered to be
a part of the defenders Crew in every way (at least
until a joker is flipped, see Carvers card). Once per
turn, during the draw phase, the defender may eat
a piece of Halloween candy to look at one pumpkin
marker to see if it is the noted pumpkin marker, and
then put it back in the exact same location without
revealing it to the other player.
Attacker Victory
At the end of the game, the attacker scores 1 VP
for each pumpkin marker which was removed
(regardless of which Crew removed it). The attacker
does not score any VP for removing the noted
pumpkin marker.
Defender Victory
Flip a card which may not be cheated, reflip jokers.
The defender has one of the following victory
conditions, depending on the suit of the card flipped.
Crows: Carvers Feast. The defender earns 1 VP
for each attacking model killed by the Carver.
Rams: Carvers End. The defender scores 4 VP if
Carver has been killed or sacrificed by the end of
the game. If the defender has this objective, Carver
is considered to be a part of the attackers Crew
when he is placed, instead of the defenders.
Tomes: Te Carving Ritual. Te defender earns 4 VP if
an opposing Master or Henchman is killed or sacrifced
by the Carver.
Masks: To Carve Another Day. At the end of the game,
the defender earns 4 VP if the Carver is still in play.
By: Justin Gibbs
The Carver Strikes At Midnight
A Malifaux Story Encounter
Rustle, rustle and snickity snack,
The Carver strikes once and then strikes back.
Slice, dice and guts a-twist,
The Carver cannot be stopped. Not by kick or fist.
Rustle, rustle and snickity snack,
The Carver strikes once and then strikes back.
Tremble, quiver, and try to hide,
The Carver will find you. Your escape, denied.
Rustle, rustle and snickity snack,
The Carver strikes once and then strikes back.
Download Carvers
Card Here

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Copyright Wyrd Miniatures, LLC
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Copyright Wyrd Miniatures, LLC
Michael is a regular writer on the Guessing Zero
gaming website at www.guessingzero.com, and is a
cohost of the podcast Gaming Done Right on the
Guessing Zero Network.
Tere is a lot to talk about on the topic of winning at
Malifaux. For those with short attention spans, Ill sum
up the entire rest of the article with these few words: you
win Malifaux by gathering more Victory Points than your
opponent during the course of the game. Tats it. Te rest
of what follows will give more details on how to stack the
game in favor of earning more Victory Points than your
opponent, but overall, Malifaux is that simple. Score more
Victory Points than your opponent and youll win the game.
Now the problem with Malifaux is that ofen the game will
try to distract you from doing just that. Assembled and
painted miniatures look fantastic. Te stories behind each
character and the interactions they have in the fuf might
pull your attention. Te abilities and actions the models
have on their cards might look too fun not to try. All of
these shiny bits will take your eye of the prize. But at the
end of the day, if you want to win at Malifaux, you have to
earn more Victory Points than your opponent.
So how do you stack the odds in your favor to make sure
Victory Points are yours to gain?
Plan from the Beginning How to Get Victory
Points
Te game of Malifaux begins before the frst duel is fipped.
It begins before the frst model is moved, the frst initiative
is taken, and even before the frst model is deployed. It
begins when the crews are being picked. Tat is the frst
chance a player has to make choices that will infuence a
game in his or her favor.
Te game size and terrain choices should be made without
trying to gain an advantage over the other player. Te
deployment type is not a choice, and neither are the strategy
nor the available schemes in the Scheme Pool.
Once the Scheme Pool is created, a player can begin
stacking the game in his or her favor. Review the strategy
and schemes. Tese are where Victory Points are earned,
and thus this will be where the game is won and lost. Even
if you think you know the conditions by which to gain
Victory Points, read them again. Tere are enough games
that are lost because a player did not understand what they
needed to do to win. Make sure that doesnt happen to you.
Afer understanding what you need to do to win a game,
its time to turn to your model selection. Every model has
its niche. Some might have two or three, but every model
has its strengths and weaknesses. Review what needs to be
done to earn Victory Points from the strategy and make
sure you take models that can achieve those points. If you
have Reckoning, for example, make sure you have models
that can kill opposing models. If you have Turf War, on
the other hand, models that can survive longer while in the
midst of enemy models become more of a premium.
Strategies and Schemes
Strategies can give a maximum of four points and usually
only grant one point a turn, starting with the second turn.
So in a standard-length game, you want to be getting
yourself a Victory Point from your strategy every turn,
or youre losing out on the chance for that Victory Point
forever. Te fip side of this is true as well. If you are able to
prevent your opponent from getting a Victory Point from
a strategy, that is usually going to be a point they can never
regain. So plan your lists around preventing your opponent
from getting points too. In Reckoning, your opponent can
only get as many Victory Points as half of your models.
Taking a swarm list of easy models gives your opponent a
chance for more points.
Schemes have to be considered diferently. Unlike the
strategy, you have the ability to pick the schemes you want
to take for the game. Schemes are where the bulk of Victory
Points will come from, though, so make sure to choose the
best ones.
By: Michael Kelmelis
Winning Malifaux
Before the First Duel
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Copyright Wyrd Miniatures, LLC
Look for themes within the schemes. Sometimes there will
be two schemes that can easily ft together with particular
model choices. Body guarding a model that moves fast and
can get Breakthrough is a nice way to lock up a bunch of
Victory Points at once. But be careful about this, because
it wraps a lot of your Victory Points in a single model and
leaves you vulnerable to an opponent killing that model.
Have a contingency plan ready and build redundancy in the
list. If you are looking to win, pass on the fun model that
you want to put on the table but will not actually support
your strategy or schemes, and instead take another model
that can get A Line in the Sand for you easily, or can reach
an enemy Master quickly to Deliver a Message.
Models chosen for a crew should all have specifc jobs for
them. Once the battle is joined, those roles may need to be
adjusted slightly, but each model should have a specifc job.
Silurids may be taken to pick up Plant Evidence. Pandora,
Teddy and Baby Kade may be selected to interfere with the
opponents models. Candy and a Doppleganger may be
selected to hold the center for Turf War. Make sure as the
crew is selected that the models have roles that directly lead
to gaining or preventing opponents from gaining Victory
Points.
Once the crew has been selected to accomplish both the
strategy and the schemes, the question is whether to reveal
the schemes or keep them hidden. Tis is more a matter of
personal taste, but from a standpoint of trying to maximize
Victory Points, any scheme that gives a beneft for revealing
should start the game revealed.
Deploy With a Goal In Mind
Finally, the last thing to consider while in the planning
stage of the game is where to deploy the models in your
crew. When you deploy ofers you an advantage either
way. Te advantage for deploying second is much easier to
see. Te person who deploys second can react to how their
opponent sets up his or her models, allow him or her to
choose not to deploy in positions that are disadvantageous.
Tere is a strong advantage to deploying frst too, though
that is ofen overlooked. Te person who deploys frst can
lay claim to the best positions. If there is a clear avenue to
the center of the board, the frst player gets to lay claim to
it and the second person to deploy has the choice of either
contesting it or yielding it, but they cannot lay sole claim to
it anymore.
Make sure to deploy in such a way that you can begin
getting points quickly. If you took A Line in the Sand as
one of your schemes, deploy fast-moving models on the
edges of the board away from your main force to rush
the center line and start placing down Scheme Markers.
If you took Power Ritual, make sure that one of your
models is in position to immediately place a Scheme
Marker in one corner.
Te Slow Buildup
Positioning oneself for victory takes place well before that
frst activation, and without proper preparation, a player
leaves himself at a disadvantage in gaining his points. Te
game provides plenty of opportunity to create the perfect
situation for victory. Players need to take into account
every aspect the strategy, the scheme pools, the model
selections and what each models role is to be in the game,
and the deployment of the pregame in order to be ready
to claim victory.
Of course how a player turns these pre-game advantages
into a during-game Victory Points is important to crafing
a win, but ignoring the pre-game opportunities only sets
a player up for defeat. So next time you set across from
your opponent, before you even start moving models and
fipping cards, take a moment to sit down and formulate
your strategy to getting Victory Points. Afer all, at the end
of the game, the Victory Points are the only things that
matter in determining the winner.
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One of the great things about a new version of
Malifaux is, that it tends to put the whole community
back at square one. Everyone has to relearn their
crews, finding out what works for them and what
doesnt. The best (always a subjective term) crew
builds or tactics may not have even been found, so
talking about the best way to play certain models
or crews at this stage feels a little premature.
So in this issue I thought Id go back to basics, so
to speak, and talk about the general role of models
in your crew, specifically in terms of their ability
to achieve your strategies and schemes. Ive been
playing M2E in its various pre- and post-beta
incarnations for almost a year now and while the
models rules have changed, sometimes drastically,
the basics of how the game plays has remained
consistent. When it comes down to it, the strategies
and schemes are and have always been key to winning
a game. So when building a crew, you need to ensure
you have the right tools (ie. models) available for
both achieving your objectives and disrupting your
opponents.
Generally, I tend to classify the models in Malifaux
into four categories. These are Assassins, Tanks,
Schemers, and Support. Each has their own role
to play and are best suited for achieving certain
strategies and schemes over others, which Ill
explain below.
Assassins
Assassin models are those whose purpose is to simply
kill elements of the opposing crew. High damage models
like Killjoy or the Viktorias are great examples of this,
although cheaper minions such as Young Nephilim,
Tunder Archers, even a Rail Worker can fulfll the role
of an Assassin. Basically, if the model has some decent
damage output for its cost, it could function as an
Assassin in-game. Its worth noting that Assassins could
also be models who can deal damage without actually
targeting the enemy model, usually through either an
irresistible damage pulse, or due to blast efects from
their attacks. Witchling Stalkers and Ice Gamin both
have great damage pulse efects, as do Nephilim (thanks
to Black Blood), and any Gremlin within line of sight
of a model with the Show Of upgrade. Tese indirect
damage dealers ofen require you to hurt or kill your
own models (unless you can place blasts of an enemy
model to hit another model), but against enemy models
that are otherwise very difcult to target (such as
Lilith with her high Df or Marcus with his Defend Me
Trigger), they can be invaluable.
Assassins in Malifaux are usually at their best with
schemes or strategies that, unsurprisingly, require
you to kill your opponents models! Reckoning,
Assassinate, Vendetta, and Make them Suffer are
all typical examples of this. But this is not the only
purpose of the Assassin.
Even if they arent achieving any objectives of
their own, simply killing your opponents models
makes it much harder for them to complete their
own objectives. For instance, an effective Assassin
could prevent your opponent from getting a model
close enough to your Leader to Deliver a Message.
Alternatively, if theyre quick enough or have a good
ranged attack, you could task them with hunting
down any enemy model whos attempting to achieve
Breakthrough or Plant Evidence.
Tanks
At its simplest, Tanks are the polar opposite of
Assassins. Their purpose in life is to hold ground and
not die, or at the very least, take a disproportionate
amount of damage from the enemy before they do
die. Any model with abilities that enhance their
endurance (eg. Hard to Wound, Hard to Kill, Armor,
Incorporeal) or have a high Df or starting Wd value
tend to make good Tanks. Examples of this might be
Taelor, a Moleman, or the Judge.
Tanks tend to be a natural choice for the Bodyguard
scheme, and their resilience makes them well suited
for guarding your own scheme markers for Line in the
Sand or Protect Territory, since most models cannot
remove a scheme marker while they are engaged.
Professor Pontificates
By: Adrian Scott
Model Roles in Malifaux
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Cursed Object and Distract are also great choices
for Tanks, since they should have the resilience to
take a beating while you sit there and (1) Interact
with your opponents models. Theyre also a good
choice for achieving strategies and schemes that
require your models to hold ground somewhere, like
Reconnoiter, Turf War, and Entourage. Tanks with a
high enough Melee value are also quite capable of
holding enemy models in place, especially if their
melee range is very small, like Bishop, a Hanged, or
the Monk of Low River. This is particularly useful
for schemes like Take Prisoner, Spring the Trap, or
Plant Explosives. The latter two, in particular, can
be difficult if you dont have some way of keeping an
enemy model in one place.
Tanks can also include anyone who can summon
more models over the course of the game. While
they themselves might be lacking in resilience, their
ability to replenish and bolster your own ranks
means you can swamp your opponents models
with freshly raised crew members. Summoners are
therefore a great choice for schemes that require you
to hold ground or guard your own scheme markers,
as detailed above.
Schemers
Schemers are those models suited to either placing
scheme markers or making Interact actions, both of
which are essential for fulfilling half of the available
strategies and schemes in the game. Interact actions
are normally only possible when the model isnt
engaged, unless they target an enemy model (Cursed
Object and Distract, which as per above are better
suited to Tanks). The best Schemers therefore tend
to be those models who can get out of melee without
triggering a disengaging strike. Good examples
of this would be Necropunks, Silurid (with Leap)
and Torakage (with Agile). Models that can push
enemy models away (eg. Bishop and Barbaros),
will also have an easier time as Schemers, as would
those models who can make interact actions while
engaged (eg. Fingers and Doppleganger).
Schemes like Breakthrough, Plant Evidence, and
Power Ritual also have the additional challenge
of needing to place multiple scheme markers well
within your opponents side of the table. For these,
you really want some mobile models to have your
best chance of achieving them. Again, Necropunks
and Silurid are great examples of this. With Leap
they can cross the table quickly without getting
tied down by enemy models, before placing up to
2 scheme markers per turn as needed (as they can
Interact, Leap, and Interact again). Failing that, any
quick, low cost models could also fulfill this role,
like Bayou Gremlins, Canine Remains, and Steam
Arachnids. If you can keep most of your opponents
crew occupied with your own Assassins and Tanks,
you should be able to buy enough time for a few of
your cheap Schemers to skirt around the flanks and
place the scheme markers you need.
One ability worth mentioning here is Finish the
Job, found on models like the Death Marshall,
Crooked Man, or anyone with the Plant Evidence or
Oathkeeper upgrade. Since it allows you to place a
scheme marker when your model is killed, Finish the
Job is very useful for the normally tricky Spring the
Trap and Plant Explosives schemes, both of which
require you to get scheme markers nice and close
to your opponents models. Simply running these
models into positions where youd want a scheme
marker, can work pretty well too (such as for Line in
the Sand or Breakthrough). Your opponent is then
faced with either killing them to let them drop the
scheme marker, or leaving them be while that model
either interacts to drop a scheme marker anyway or
do some killing of his own.
Support
The Support is probably the broadest and hardest
to define category Ive listed here. For the most part
their role isnt in playing the Assassin, the Tank, or
the Schemer, and their ability to achieve objectives
and earn VPs can be somewhat limited. What they
do, however, is either improve the capabilities of
your own models, or hamstring your opponents
models in some way, thus making it easier for the
rest of your crew to complete strategies and schemes.
The way a support model bolsters or hinders crews is
incredibly varied. They might increase the damage
output of your own models (Ice Gamin and Lenny),
improve their resilience (Fransisco and Lenny) or
boost their mobility (Judge and Sybelle). They might
Copyright Wyrd Miniatures, LLC
16
also provide beneficial synergies, such as the Hanged
removing immunity to Horror Duels, or a Beckoner
pushing enemy models to within Striking range
of some Illuminated. They could also hamstring
the capabilities of your opponents models, such
as a Canine Remains reducing a models defense
value, or a Primordial Magic making a model
Insignificant. Finally, a support model might simply
act to counter your opponents negative effects, the
classic example of this being the Witchling Stalker
using Dispel Magic to remove a condition.
Some models might also offer support elements
to your crew in less orthodox ways. For instance,
a buried Bad Juju with the Eternal Fiend upgrade
can indirectly boost the Tank-like qualities of
your Swampfiends. After all, your opponent will
have to think twice about killing your Silurid and
Waldgeists, since theyre likely to be rewarded with
a large, angry Mire Golem in their face. The same
goes for Bete Noire.
Bringing it all together
Up until this point, Ive talked as if each model in
your crew would fit into just one category. But as
you might have guessed, models will more often
fulfill some role from two, three, or even all four
categories to varying degrees. For instance the
Austringers ability to target models outside Line
of Sight can make them a very capable Assassin,
and this tends to be the first thing people think of
when they see this model. However their Deliver
Orders action allows them to be a great support
model, pushing other models into better positions
and making interact actions. If that wasnt enough
however, the Austringer also has Finish the Job and
Quick Retreat as an easy way of getting out of melee,
allowing them to play the role of the Schemer,
should the situation require it.
When building your crew to achieve the available
strategy and schemes, Id recommend building your
crew according to what model categories are going
to be best for fulfilling those objectives. If you can
easily identify what roles each model in your crew can
fulfill, then it shouldnt be hard to figure out where
your crew is lacking for the strategies and schemes
available, and alter your crew list accordingly.
For instance, Liliths starter crew consists of some
very capable Assassin models (Lilith, Barbaros, and
the Terror Tots to an extent), some decent Schemers
(Terror Tots), and a bit of Support (Cherub and
Barbaros with his push effects). Lilith and Barbaros
could also act as Tanks, especially with the right
upgrades, but that category is probably where the
crew is lacking most. Barbaros is a solid choice
for Bodyguard, but if I was facing a Turf War, Id
definitely consider adding some more Tanks in the
form of Waldgeists. Similarly, Terror Tots might
make for good Schemers, especially with help from
the Cherub, but if I drew Breakthrough or Power
Ritual as a Scheme then Id probably look at finding
some room for a Silurid.
The End
So thats it from me for another month! Before I
finish up, however, Id like to plug a blog by a fellow
Malifaux enthusiast Joel Henry. Much like me,
Joel enjoys a good bit of cognitive mastication when
it comes to tactics in Malifaux and his blog is replete
with his perspective on the game. He also recently
wrote an article very similar to this one shortly after
I started work on mine, titled The Rock-Paper-
Scissors of Malifaux. So I figured it would be remiss
of me not to mention his own great article here! You
can find Joels Blog at http://joelfaux.blogspot.co.uk
Until next time,
~Adrian
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I have been building a town for Malifaux called
Perfection. It has many diferent variations depending
on the type of game we are afer, but it has become a
main stay of my players game experience. Te one
that ofen gets the most comments is the version with
the detailed buildings that can be entered.
I thought I might help people out by looking at some
of the tricks and ideas I have learned through my
many years and many mistakes of building tables. I
will be trying to explain it in simple terms, so feel
free to skim over the bits you think you already
know. In this article I will take you through the
basics of making a train station built out of Balsa
wood.
Balsa wood is a good building medium, as it is easy
to work with, does not require expensive specialised
tools, and is versatile in its applications.
Scenery and the table are as much a part of the
Malifaux skirmish game as the models and the
cards. A well-made table full of scenery can really
help enhance the game, not just because it looks
good, but because it makes the game fun through
the interactions it causes.
Things to think about when building scenery and
terrain:
1) Functionality: does it work well with the models
and rules you intend to play with? Is it clear how
the terrain functions and what it is intended to be
(of course the quick check-and-chat at the start of a
game is essential).
2) Durability: How well is the piece going to stand
up to the rigors of having models placed on it and
how long do you expect it to last?
3) Storage: How much space do you have and where
are you going to keep it?
4) Is it cheap (or even FREE)?
5) How long is this going to take you to make (kind
of an effort/time versus end product judgment)?
Building Perfection in Malifaux
By: David
Herbert
Building a Frontier Train Station
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One of the first things you need to get right is the
size. Unless you intend for a piece to dominate
the board, large terrain can really bog down a
game and even make it seem like you are playing
separate games on separate tables divided by a huge
obstruction. I tend to go for smaller pieces that can
be moved about and even placed near one another
to change the dynamics of the game. It is a good
idea to not only measure the footprint you intend
the piece to occupy, but to also place an average
model on it and get a good idea of scale.
Here I have used foam to build up the base of where
I want my building to go. Apart from its fragility,
foam is a great building medium, even when coated
in PVA glue. In this instance I am using it just to
provide some height.
Adding texture to Balsa wood can be done in a
variety of ways, from varnish to special texturing
mediums. For this project I wanted an exaggerated
grain and weathered look. A very cheap and easy
way to accomplish this is by using freeze dried
instant coffee. It also makes you terrain smell nice.
Lightly wet the wood with a sponge before sprinkling
some instant coffee over it. Using a spoon shift and
crush it a little further before blotting (dabbing) the
whole lot with damp paper towel (or tissues). Then
leave this to dry overnight. The next morning give
it a wipe with a plastic scourer to remove the excess
and even gouge and dent the wood slightly.
Parts of the
fooring will be
marked as foor
boards. I have
seen this done
with hundreds
of stirring sticks,
but I much
prefer working
with fewer,
larger pieces.
You will need a
black pen and a ruler. Use a ball point because the dried
cofee will kill a felt tip. Te ball point pen will need constant
wiping on a scrap piece of paper to remove cofee build up.
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Copyright Wyrd Miniatures, LLC
It is a good idea to measure, cut and test all pieces
before applying glue, as once that has been done
there are time pressures, not to mention the mess.
When using PVA glue with Balsa wood less is better.
Great globs take too long to dry and will often soak
the wood causing it to warp. A nice even coat will
still do the job. It is also going to be important to
use pins to either hold the parts in place temporarily
or to add structural strength to the joints by leaving
them in place.
When it comes to constructing the frame for the
building I prefer to place things where they look
good and measure on the model. Balsa wood is a
natural material and will have bends, warps and
other imperfections. Just because it says that the
next space should be a certain size on the plan does
not mean it will ring true on your model
Build up the basic shape you are after and then start
to think about where models will exit and enter.
Also give consideration to which models you want
to enter and exit at certain points. It can be fun
to make a small door for 30mm models to escape
through while trapping the larger models on the
other side. Dont forget to allow some extra wriggle
room and to take into account adding walls. If
the boards you are using are 2mm thick then you
will need to allow for that. Easy solution, always
be generous. A door that is a little large is usable,
where as one that is too small will ruin your piece.
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Copyright Wyrd Miniatures, LLC
Once again measuring from the model it is a pretty
efficient way to work as you will end up with pieces
that fit precisely. Adding detail to Balsa wood is
often as easy as pressing on it with a black pen and
maybe going over those points with a black marker.
Here I have made the outside walls appear to have
old style iron nails.
The same goes for marking off where the doors and
windows go on the walls. To get the edges flush,
your best bet is to prop it in place and trace where
the hole needs to be cut. Before you rush off and
get cutting though, here are some pointers. Always
use your ruler! Balsa wood has a grain, so as you are
cutting it your knife will follow and end up making
all sorts of wonky cuts. If you are cutting across
the grain, do it in a few passes, dont try and press
hard and do it in one go. This will cause parts of
the wood to splinter off making for a rough edge.
Last hint, press and cut from one direction then
turn the piece around and cut again from the other
direction. This way you will cut right down and
into the corners without over cutting.
Another point you may want to consider before you
cut is whether you want to add internal textures.
I like using printed textures as wall paper as they
look very nice. Material can also be used, but it is
harder to cut and can armor up the wood making
life needlessly difficult. If you are looking for
textures I recommend going into Google Images
and searching up seamless texture [type], where
[type] is what you are after. This will then provide
a range of textures that are used for 3D renders and
can be easily joined without leaving ugly gaps and
overlaps. I also paste them together using Microsoft
Word as it is a common program and allows for easy
scaling too (right click, properties).
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Copyright Wyrd Miniatures, LLC
When gluing the printed paper patterns to your
Balsa wood it is critical that you apply a minimum
of glue. Too much and the colors run and the whole
thing goes bumpy.
Before you glue your walls into place, it is a great
time to texture and paint the base, as the inevitable
mess will not ruin your hard work. Applying PVA
and sand to the base will add texture and stabbing
your brush down instead of strokes will make much
more natural patterns.
So, once all your walls are cut and the base is done,
it is time to glue them into place, once again using
pins to hold everything in place while the glue dries.
Now, you could stop there, you have a building
all set to go. From here on in I will be looking at
detailing it and making it special.
The first thing I wanted was the entire station to
be built up on stone, so I searched for and printed
off a stone wall texture and cut it into strips before
applying it around the base of the building. I
recommend having a clean off cut to press the strip
into corners and make nice sharp details.
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Copyright Wyrd Miniatures, LLC
Before I had glued the outer wall on I also prepared
and measured my internal walls. These can be
pinned and glued just like the outer walls.
Once that is dry I like to tidy up the top edges by
gluing strips of black paper over them. You spend
a lot of time looking down at these things so it is
important to make the top look nice.
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Copyright Wyrd Miniatures, LLC
I like to add roofs to my buildings and have since
I discovered a pretty easy way to do it. All of this
was built and measured using the same techniques
I discussed earlier by doing it all on the model and
where it looks good. The first step is to build the
frame. Now the first few of these I built covered
the entire building and while they looked great they
were always removed right at the start of the game
so you could access the space. I believe verandas
are the answer; however you can build yours how
you like.
Covering the frame can be achieved in a variety of
ways and for this project I chose to go for a tin roof.
Corrugated cardboard is great for this. As you peel
off one of the outer layers you are left with a surface
that looks just like the corrugations on a tin roof.
Cheap boxes work better, as the glue comes away
easily. I used the box my Gen Con order came in
for this model and I must say that the postage boxes
used by Wyrd are of a superior quality and resisted
my efforts to destroy them quite well. I ended up
using a long pair of tweezers to poke down each
corrugation before lifting the layers off. The fuzz
you are left with is not a problem as it will all flatten
down with a liberal layer of paint. If you choose to
spray paint the cardboard the fuzziness will remain.
Finally I like to then add other small details such
as signs, paintings, and clocks. All of these were
scaled in MS Word and printed onto paper before
being glued into place.
I hope that has been of some help and you all have
fun on your Hobby Nights!
~David Pagan Wolfe Herbert
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Copyright Wyrd Miniatures, LLC
Accursed The Roleplaying Game
By: Ross Watson
Witches, Banes, and Curses
The World of Accursed
Greetings, readers! My name is Ross Watson, and I
am a veteran game designer with quite a few titles
under my belt. My good friend Mack Martin has
graciously given me an opportunity to present to
you today my newest creation: Accursed.
Accursed is a dark fantasy setting for the Savage
Worlds RPG system where the heroes are classic
monsters who team up together to free the land
from the dark influence of evil Witches. Its a
combination of Castlevania and Hammer Horror
films, where Hellboy meets Solomon Kane.
In the world of Accursed, the forces of evil have
triumphed. It is a world of dark fantasy and perilous
adventure, where those who remain uncorrupted by
wickedness must rely upon monsters to fight the
darkness. Witches have ruled the land since the last
battles of conquest, but their Grand Coven has been
sundered, leaving behind remnants of a once mighty
army. The remnants of the horde include captured
citizens of the conquered nations that fought as the
Witches shock troops.
These are the Accursedthe Witchmarks burned
into their flesh and souls transformed these men
and women into monstrous forms. Now, unable to
return to their former lives, the Accursed wander
the land, giving aid to those in need in an attempt
to atone for past sins. Some have joined the Order of
the Penitent, an organization devoted to ridding the
world of the Witches and their evil influence. Others
offer their skills as warriors, alchemists, and spies to
the highest bidder. Yet others have succumbed to
corruption, greed, or insanity.
Light has failed, darkness is ascendantonly those
bearing the forms of monsters can stand against
the tide of the Witches evil. The Accursed are this
worlds only hope. They must learn to embrace their
curse or to fight against it and find some way to free
themselves forever of their Witchmark.
The Creators
Accursed is the creation of myself and my two
colleagues: John Dunn and Jason Marker. The three
of us have designed games for many properties,
including Star Wars: Edge of the Empire, Shadowrun,
Warhammer 40,000 Roleplay, and Robotech. We
have decades of experience working in the gaming
industry, and were very excited about bringing a
new twist on dark fantasy RPGs to life.
Who are the Accursed
Te core experience of the Accursed RPG allows the
players to take on the roles of monsters, fghting against
great supernatural evils to free a conquered land.
Tese monsters are the Accursedonce normal folk
transformed into monstrous forms through a Witchs
curse. Te curse takes a physical form on the Accurseds
body as a Witchmark; a sigil branded into his fesh that
displays the nature of his particular curse.
:
?
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Copyright Wyrd Miniatures, LLC
A Grand Coven of Witches launched an invasion of
conquest against the allied nations of Morden. As part
of this assault, six Witches transformed thousands
of normal human settlers into the Accursed. The
Witches forced their creations to fight in the front
lines against their former countrymen, destroying
vast swathes of Mordens defenses.
At the height of the final battle, the Grand Coven
was sundered by betrayal. Although the Witches
had ultimately triumphed over their foes, the dark
horde of monsters, Accursed, and mercenaries
fragmented. Most of these forces along with the
remnants of the Grand Coven returned back over
the Darkwall Peaks from whence they came. A small
group of Witches remained in Morden to consolidate
their hold on the newly-conquered nations.
For their part, the Accursed found themselves freed at
the wars end. However, the Accursed found it impossible
to return to their former livestheir curses and their
monstrous forms removed them from the bosom of
friends and family, and their homelands had been
ravaged by the invasion. With nowhere else to turn, most
Accursed became mercenaries, wanderers, adventurers,
and bandits. Many Accursed have been drawn to a
recently-founded organization known as the Order of St.
Vitusalso known as the Order of the Penitenta group
dedicated to opposing the dark infuence and minions of
the Witches and seeking to free the conquered realms of
Morden from oppression and evil.
The Witchbreeds
There are six common types of Accursed in Morden.
Each type of Accursed is unique, and collectively,
these types are known as the Witchbreeds.
Dhampir
The dhampir are also called half-vampires,
and the most human-looking of all Accursed.
Much like their vampiric kin, dhampir have a
hunger for blood and suffer grievous wounds
from weapons made of wood. Dhampir are lithe,
graceful, and charming, agile in both combat
and conversation.
The dhampir are the creations of the Blood
Witch, Sanguinara, and must beware her wrath.
Golems
Physically the largest and most robust of the
Accursed, golems are humanoid creatures
formed of unliving materialsmost often dead
flesh, wood and straw, stone and clay. These
beings contain a human soul, the only remnant
of their former selves.
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A mysterious Witch known as the Crone is the
creator of the golems, taking a cruel pleasure from
placing a human soul into an unliving vessel.
Mongrels
One of the most bizarre Witchbreeds is the
Mongrelthese are men and women who have
been gifted with body parts taken from beasts.
These enhancements vary wildly, from the arm of a
mountain gorilla to the eyes of a jungle cat.
The mongrels were created by a Witch obsessed
with transmutation and the secrets of life known
as the Chimera. This Witch is constantly nomadic,
transporting her dark fortress to a new location
every dawn.
Mummies
The most ancient of the Accursed, mummies
are beings that have been returned to life after
centuries of death. A mummy draws strength from
his sarcophagus, and wears remnants of these burial
trappings as a form of armor.
Mummies were created by a Witch known as the
Djinn, whose power resided in granting twisted
versions of wishes.
Revenants
Revenants are the living dead, corpses animated by
an overwhelming obsession for revenge. Since they
are already dead, Revenants are difficult to injure.
The revenants were created by a Witch named the
Morrigan, who used her necromantic arts to create
hordes of undead known as cauldron-born during
the Bane War.
Vargr
The vargr are werewolves, able to shift between
human and bestial forms at will. Vargr possess
extremely sharp senses and are swift and savage foes
on the battlefield.
Baba Yaga is the creator of the vargr, and this
capricious Witch holds little love for her creations.
Her influence over Steppengrad, one of the major
nations of Morden, has nearly devastated that land
with famine.
Witchmarks
Each Accursed possesses a sigil of power branded
into their flesh, a symbol that encompasses every
aspect of his curse. These symbols are known as
Witchmarks. Over time, the Accursed learns more
about himself and his curse, and his Witchmark
correspondingly grows larger and more complex.
Each piece of the Accurseds Witchmark represents
something significant to him, such as important
victories he has achieved or the fearsome enemies
that still pursue him.
Witchmarks are not simply decorativethey
possess lingering power. The Accursed can learn to
use his Witchmark to gain new abilities over time,
such as the ability to sense other creatures created
by the same Witch, the ability to communicate at
a distance with his allies, or even to warn him of
dangerous witchcraft an instant before it strikes.
The Curse
When the name of your setting is Accursed, you
really have to make sure that curses play a role
in every aspect! Characters in Accursed have a
powerful tool to help tell their own personal story
they may choose to either accept their curse or deny
it. Accepting the curse means embracing your inner
monster, increasing both your monstrous strengths
but also your weaknesses. Denying the curse is an
attempt to break its hold on your character and
regain your lost humanity. As the curse weakens,
the vulnerabilities of your monstrous form begin to
fade. Correspondingly, some of your monster forms
special abilities also weaken in strength.
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Kickstarter
Weve got a Kickstarter running right now through
October 13 to make the Accursed setting a reality.
So far, the Kickstarter is running quite well, but we
still need your help to reach all the exciting stretch
goals weve got lined up! For example, we have some
great authors like Mel Odom lined up to write game
fiction for the setting, and weve got some awesome
designers like Chris Avellone and George Zeits
willing to write sourcebooks to expand the setting
and the world. On top of that, weve got a packet
of short Accursed adventures from designers like
Adam Jury, Colin McComb, Sean Preston, and
Shane Hensley, plus weve got plans for an add-on
of a special unique Accursed playing card deck for
your Savage Worlds games!
All backers of the Kickstarter, regardless of level, are
instantly granted access to a 100+-page Accursed
Players Guide PDF. This is a playtest version of the
final Players Guide that contains everything you
need to play in a game of Accursed. To get the full,
final version of the Accursed Players Guide PDF,
simply back the Kickstarter at the $10 level!
For $20, you get the full Accursed book PDF with a
plot-point campaign, tons of more information on
the setting, and the Witches that serve as Accurseds
primary antagonists. If you go up to $30, not only
do you receive the full book, you also get access
to purchase a print on demand copy of the book
through DriveThruRPG at manufacturers cost!
The Kickstarter has lots of levels where people who
are interested in the setting can actually become
creators and developers of Accursed. You can design
your own city, island, important character, or even
create a brand-new Witch and Witchbreed for every
Accursed campaign to enjoy!
We appreciate your time and support!
In Closing
Jason, John, and I invite you to experience a new
dimension of dark fantasy roleplaying. Become
one of the Accursed, and join the resistance. Fight
alongside the Order against the minions of the
Witches, and cleanse evil from the land of Morden.
Wrestle with your own inner demons and conquer
the curse that has twisted your body and mind.
This is what it means to be Accursed.
Check out the Accursed blog at www.AccursedRPG.
com, and you can find our kickstarter at http://www.
kickstarter.com/projects/1231173913/accursed-rpg.
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Overview
When it comes to tabletop, there are a lot of games;
theres a large variety of themes, game mechanics, and
overall varying production quality levels as well. One
game that has had high remarks in all three categories
is Seasons. It is a game in which players take the roles
of sorcerers in the land of Argos to compete in a
tournament where they manipulate the elements and
seasons. In this article, I want to talk about how this
sweet board game welcomes you into its world and
submerges you in its rich gameplay and art. I will be
reviewing the game on its production quality, game
mechanics, as well as art.
When it comes to creating a game, its important
that your games presentation grabs anyones
attention when they pass by the shelf it sits on.
The Seasons box does this perfectly. Right away it
splashes a beautiful array of orange and blue at the
peripherals. The color palette is solid and graphics
are well placed. However, when you dwell further
within Seasonss contents, the components really
begin to shine.
Components
As soon as you open the box, the game has a nice
vacuum-formed insert to neatly place all of your
components. The cards that come with the game
are made from a solid card stock and have a nice
matte coating on them; this ensures that your cards
will remain in top shape for a while. The tokens
that come with this game are beautiful and are
made from a high-quality chip board. Even though
these tokens are being picked up for the entirety
of the game, more so than any other components,
they still show no signs
of wear and tear. Each
player is also provided
with a large player aid
where element tokens
and stats are stored. This
player aid is fantastic!
It seats your element
tokens (a component
used to summon cards)
perfectly and in a very neat way. Theres also a score
track and circular game board that are made from
the same high-quality chip board as the tokens.
Next are the huge dice that come with the game.
Seasons includes twenty very large plastic dice.
When I first saw these dice, I was absolutely floored
by how much game information they displayed and
how far away from the game I could sit and still
translate what was on each side.
By: Redd Cohen
Seasons Review
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The final components for me to talk about are the
wooden cubes that come with this game. These
wooden cubes are color coordinated to match the
player aids that players select from. The cubes are
used to mark certain elements of the game for player
recognition, such as scoring or keeping track of what
season it is. Theyre painted in non-standard colors
which is a nice change of pace from your primaries
(red, yellow, and blue).
Gameplay
Now lets get to the meat of it all; the gameplay. At
the beginning of each turn, players will roll up to
five dice (depending on the number of players).
Each color corresponds to what season youre in (if
youre in fall for example, the first player rolls only
the red dice). Beginning with the first player and
continuing clockwise, each player will choose a die
and use its resulting face up ability on their turn.
The dice allow players to gather energy, increase
their power gauge, transmute energy into crystals,
draw power cards, as well as just gain crystals. The
leftover die is used to move the season marker up
the game board. The number of spaces it moves
depends on how many little dots are displayed on
the die. A year ends when the season marker has
circled the board once. After three years have passed
in the game, the tournament is over and each player
tallies up all of the crystals that they gathered over
the course of the game.
Mechanics
Te Dice
Each face of the die varies depending on what season
youre in and greatly affects what you can or cant
summon into the game; choosing the right result is
the heart of the games mechanics.
Sometimes the die will grant a player energy tokens.
Energy tokens are used to play power cards and are
your main currency in this game. The stars indicate
how much you can raise your power gauge by. This
is important, because you can only play a number of
cards to your field equal to your power gauge!
Other times a die will allow a player to earn crystals.
You can convert energy tokens into crystals (VP used
to win the game) or just gain crystals depending on
the icons displayed on the die.
Lastly, a die will allow a player to draw power cards.
Drawing power cards can be very significant, because
you only start with nine cards at the beginning of
the game!
Te Cards
Power cards will create turning points throughout the
game and are calculated when determining the fnal
scores at the end of the game. At the beginning of
each year, each player will have access to three of nine
power cards distributed to them during setup. Power
cards not only reward players with a certain amount of
crystals at the end of the game, they also provide you
with mechanics to hinder other opponents strategies
while stomping the competition. Each card is
summoned into play using crystals or energy and will
have passive abilities
that happen as soon
as the card is placed,
or abilities where
you can exhaust the
card to get an efect
each turn.
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Presentation
The last thing I want to talk about is the artwork. The
artists in this game are none other than the talented
Xavier Gueniffey Durin and Stphane Gantiez. Both
are very distinguished artists and the vision they
brought out for this game is breathtaking.
In the cards alone, you will find fifty different
pieces of fully detailed artwork. That even includes
individual backgrounds for each card. When you
consider how much artwork costs and the fact that
each card not only featured a different character, but
a different background as well, its impressive! The
board itself is colorful and is graphically intuitive,
and does well to maintain the aspects and theme of
the game. This applies to all the components. The
tokens, wood pieces, character aids, they ALL look
like they belong in this game.
If I were to just look at the box, and then pull a
random piece out of it, I would easily agree that
it falls in line with the theme of the game; that is
extremely important. The designers did a fantastic
job of consistently blending their teals with their
orange palette while being able to tie in a jaw-
dropping set of vibrant colors. The art quality in
this game is fantastic!
Final Thoughts
Libellud just locked this game down with soaring
scores. From the moment that I opened this game
up, until the moment it had to be packed up, it
seemed like this company paid really close attention
to the details. Every aspect of this game was clearly
created with love.
Seasons has won several awards in the last year and
is still continuing to get more and more. This board
game immerses you in its world and lets you soak
up the feeling of what its like to be a summoner
of monsters and a wizard of the seasons. The game
plays smooth and the time flows from turn to turn.
For most of the game I found myself on the edge
of my seat, trying to solve my very own puzzle of
summoning and converting just to maximize my
crystal output.
As a gamer you owe it to yourself to get this game.
Seasons not only gives you more than your moneys
worth, but upholds a very high standard in gaming.
The final verdict: Remarkable
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N
o
w

I
n

S
t
o
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e
s
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Okay, so theres a lot of gaming to be done at Gen
Con. There are also things to buy, people to meet,
and all that kind of stuff (that I did a lot of ). But
for folks like me, the main attraction is something I
view with a strange mix of hatred and delight the
painting contest. I think we all know I like painting,
and I do it for fun and relaxation, rather than out
of competitiveness. I know a few painters that live
for the win, but Im not really one of them. Which
raises the question, why do I enter? Its a lot of work,
stress, and tension to put myself through when I
dont actually care that much about the win.
Painting for competitions is a very different thing
to painting for gaming. This is where I get to stretch
myself a bit, try things that Ive never done before,
and go all out to get the best result. It also comes
with a built in deadline to force me to stop at a
certain point, instead of endlessly fiddling with each
tiny bit and not ever getting the piece finished. And
thats why I enter competitions from time to time I
enjoy the way I can push myself to my limits with my
entries, and feel satisfied when I hand them in. I like
doing well of course (who doesnt), but really the
entering is my favorite part that moment where
I say to myself This is the best I can do, and Im
happy to call it done and show it off publicly. Its a
good feeling that far outweighs the stress that often
occurs in the final weeks.
Competition vs. Tabletop
The obvious difference between everyday painting
and competition painting is that you need to try and
get every part the best you can. But there are other
differences that are less obvious. You have to plan
your time and efforts carefully to make the best use
of them, for one thing. Thats the key point in many
ways you can try every trick to improve your
competition entries, but in the end you do have to
paint to your absolute best regardless of what you
add in!
Then theres the 2m/2ft rule generally, the first
sight of your piece by a judge will be from roughly
two metres away, often through cabinet glass, so
you want it to stand out from whichever angle they
come from. Having caught their eye, theyll be
looking from two feet away (or closer), so you need
things to be smooth and neat at that range, as well
as having things to keep their interest. What that
boils down to is having a bold style or look to your
piece to catch the eye from a distance (similar to
tabletop work), but then having small subtle touches
like thematic freehand, good blends, and so on that
judges can discover as they look closer.
Its also good to show a range of skills in a piece, as
it looks more impressive if done right (dont overdo
it just for the sake of it though). Having different
fabrics and textures, as well as doing freehand, object
source lighting (OSL), and getting your metals right
all adds to the time that gets taken looking at your
piece and lets you show off all your skills.
The general guidelines of competition painting can
really be summed up as follows. This is the way to
a happy, rewarding competition day with very little
stress:
+ Look at the categories, restrictions and rules
carefully, and follow them
+ Plan carefully and only do as many entries as you
can comfortably manage
+ Start early, and work steadily so you dont end up
rushing
+ Do things the proper way, not the shortcut way
+ Stay focussed on your entries until theyre
finished
+ Work out how to pack them best, and make sure
they cant break
The Road to Gen Con
By: Mark Rogers
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I dont think Ive ever seen anyone manage this,
and theres a list of almost inevitable things youll
actually do instead:
- Youll plan too many projects and start them all
- The latest shiny thing will be more tempting and
will overtake the original projects
- No matter how early you start, youll get to a few
months out with very little done
- Youll start to run out of time and have to hurry
some bits to get done in time
- Ofen that will be at 2am the morning of the contest
- Something will break in transit, so bring a repair kit
I call it a good year if I manage to dodge even half
of those, honestly.
Te Project
So, first things first the overall story, which in
this case is a fluffy setting for the dead marshals.
It turned out to not be too hard a choice really,
when I read the end of book two again, there it was.
Nicodems tower, when they got caught between
zombies and the plagued, was where they died;
so that was where theyd be. That meant the base
would be a wrecked tower, some walls, and cobbles.
At this point I started laying things out on a piece of
foam core to see how the group looked in different
positions. Lady Justice turned out to be quite slight
compared to the others, so I raised her up into the
rubble of the tower to give her more prominence. I
also carefully checked from various angles to make
sure I didnt have any big gaps in the scene, and that
most of the models were visible from every angle.
Once I was happy with the basic layout, I then went
back and flled in the story a bit. I didnt want anything
that would distract from the models, but it needed
something fufy to fll the empty spaces on the cobbles.
Tat led to me sketching in the sewer and the broken
gate. My plan was to add in a rat and some maggots to
imply Hamelin had just been there.
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The first thing to consider, now Id laid it all out,
was how to integrate the bases. I could cut 30mm
holes and sit the bases into them, leaving the black
lips visible. Personally, I prefer to integrate the
models more fully so I decided to match the cobbles
on the bases to the surrounding floor. This takes a
little care, especially to keep the 30mm bases visible
for gaming, but the overall effect is much more like
a diorama.
For the walls, I made half a dozen stones and cast
them in silicon. That meant I could cast them in
plaster quickly and easily. I added cheap black
acrylic to my plaster to tint the stones, so even if
they got chipped or I missed a bit when painting
them, it didnt really show (useful when youre
transporting things a long way). This also meant
that rubble could be produced easily, by hitting
spare bricks with heavy things.
Te fencing was made from plastic rods and strip, fled
and drilled to slot together. I drilled them right into
the foam core to provide extra support for the wall,
and then bent them using heat (carefully). It was at this
point that I managed to wreck the sections of fence Id
nearly fnished with a slightly careless mistake. Cue a
long stream of interesting words
When that sort of thing happens, you have two choices
really give up, or get on with the repair. I usually take
the evening of if I have time to (obviously, the week
before the contest is not the time to take days of), then
return to it refreshed the next day and get the repair
sorted out before I do anything else. Tat way, I dont
have the damaged bit sitting there reminding me of
my mistake any longer than is necessary. Its generally
a bad idea to deal with it when it happens, as youre
likely stressed or annoyed with it, and you can easily
make a bigger mess. It always looks a lot worse when it
frst happens the next day the repair seems easier to
deal with.
To fix it I had to take out the entire fence, which
also meant pulling off quite a few of the bricks
because of the nice solid glue job Id done. Some of
the bricks got damaged in the process, and needed
replacing. I had a small pile of whole bricks ready to
be turned into rubble, so any that broke while being
removed got added to the rubble pile, and whole
ones were swapped in. I salvaged a few pieces of
fencing to use as broken remnants on the base area,
and shaped a whole new set for the upright areas.
While having wasted several evenings of work was
frustrating, I had managed to find a use for some of
the bits, so it wasnt a total loss, and the repair wasnt
too difficult. Its important to keep pushing onward
without thinking about the lost time, at least until
theres visible progress from where you were before
the mistake!
With the repairs finished, I was able to push on and
complete the base, fitting a wooden frame around
it to neaten the edges, providing a way to handle it
without touching the paint work, and protecting the
walls and rubble a little more.
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Te Models
With the base sorted, it was time to start prepping
models. A mold line on a competition model is one
of the easiest ways to get eliminated, so double check
and make sure theyre all dealt with. Fill any gaps,
smooth any rough patches, and if you do find a line
or hole later on, dont ignore it fix it carefully with
a knife and putty before you paint that area.
Lady Justice
The best example I can give of the difference between
my normal painting and competition painting is
Lady Js skin. The image above has her skin as Id
have left it for tabletop level, and then the end result
of a series of glazes and tweaks, looking much more
dead and interesting. Aside from the skin, Ive also
tried to paint in different materials such as leather
on the scabbard, and added some simple freehand
to make her trousers more interesting. The model is
busy enough that any more than this would probably
be too much. The white also makes her a bit more
prominent visually at a distance.
Judge
The judge again has freehand and different fabrics
(denim and canvas in this case, with leather boots
and gloves), but also a bit more focus on the metals.
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Ive used several different recipes to make them more
interesting than a flat silver all the way. His coat
again has some freehand, with the Guild emblem
across the back on an extra canvas flap I painted in.
Hes less bright than Justice, which helps make him
less of a focal point from a distance despite being at
the front.
Marshals
The marshals are dominated by their heavy leather
coats, which have been scuffed and dirtied up to
make them match the area of the base theyre on.
The white hats were an idea from my puppet death
marshal that I liked, so I used it to brighten them
up and tie them to Justice a bit. The denim is more
obvious here, tying them to the judge. Despite their
identical uniforms, each has their own look due to
the OSL, corpse or weaponry/blood on them.
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Miss Treated
This was probably my favorite part of the whole project. Miss Terious really worked out well as her undead
counterpart, Miss Treated. The green stuff chains made her match the other marshals more, and the rest of
the adjustments were quite simple, ripping up her jacket a bit, breaking her leg, and so on. Her paint job
was like the other marshals, except with paler skin and a fair amount of blood down her back.
Te Event
So, on the day how did it go? Well, I put my entry in without it getting damaged (thats a victory right
there), and settled in to look at the other entries. After investigating the cabinets, I could see some really
stunning paint jobs, both Wyrd stuff and others. That was awesome to see, as despite being pretty sure I
wasnt getting top place, I could admire some beautiful painting and maybe learn from what theyd done.
Theres no fun in a painting contest without a bunch of top notch entries! I was surprised to discover that
most of the units were placed on wooden plinths, not in a group scenic base, as is more common in Europe.
This kind of thing is where knowing your competition comes in I spent a lot of effort on that base that
could have been used to improve the crew instead. In the end though, you either tune your entry carefully
to win, or you paint what you want and see how you do. I prefer the second approach, its more fun.
As Ive said many times, Im not the best painter in the world. Gen Con proved that very definitely I was
happy to walk away with 2nd place Wyrd diorama and 4th place Gen Con Unit category and I dont think
I deserved any more than that. More importantly, I got some great ideas from the other entries, and got to
chat to some really top class painters and get good advice to help me improve. Thats what matters at these
things to me I put in what I could achieve in the time, and I learned a lot from the event.
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I also managed to get pictures of some of the entries
from the Wyrd section, and theres a selection of
them here to show folks that theres a lot of different
ways to be amazing at painting. Enjoy!
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The Depleted are one of my favorite miniatures
from the new range of plastics released by Wyrd last
year, so I as soon as I got the parcel with the box,
I was eager to start preparing them for painting. I
was working on all three simultaneously, but Ill be
focusing on just one in this article.
I began with the base. I use the same style of basing
for all my Neverborn miniatures. The reason is
twofold. Firstly, for conveniences sake. Its just easier
to prepare all the bases for a given crew/faction in
the same style as it saves time and makes the whole
process shorter. The other reason is that I can easily
put together a crew with any minion I want without
making them seem out of place, as they will always
fit in thematically.
I bought these plastic sheets (seen in the picture
below) in a hobby store a while ago and have been
using them for my Neverborn base inserts. The
whole process is fairly simple, so Ill just briefly go
through it.
First of all, I need a good reference, so rather than
take measurements I simply use an original metal
Wyrd base insert.

I used curved
f i ngernai l -cutti ng
scissors as theyre
slightly bent at the
edges, which makes
getting circular
shapes easier. If the
insert doesnt fit in perfectly, I use a hobby knife to
cut away some plastic from the bottom at an angle.
There is always a bit of a gap between the insert and
the inner edge of the base so I fill that with Green
Stuff and that pretty much ends the preparation
stage.
Spreading the Brilliance
By: Wojtek Tekielski
Painting the Depleted
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Alternatively, I glue small patches of sand or small
objects that fit in thematically to the cobblestones
(e.g. lanterns, trash cans, barrels or boxes, etc).
I will skip the preparation stage described in various
other painting tutorials. I just want to recommend
using a good hobby knife, preferably with a new
blade. Wyrd plastics are highly detailed, but some
pieces are really small and fragile, and removing
mold lines from these with an old, worn blade may
result in damaging the details.
I base coated the Depleted using a grey spray and
followed that with lightly spraying white base coat
over them at, a more or less, 45 degree angle. This
method helps me with planning where to place
highlights and it also brings out the details nicely.
Base coat can also help set the color tone for the
miniature youre working with, and I wanted to get
mainly cool colors on this one.

The miniature is ready for painting
I usually begin with the bases and the Depleted
were no exception. I dont have any pictures that
document this stage of painting, but it was a fairly
straightforward process. I started with base coating
the surface with matte black paint. When it was dry,
I drybrushed it with three shades of grey, beginning
with the darkest shade and finishing with the lightest
one. Drybrushing is accomplished by applying less
pressure to the brush with each layer and avoiding
going over exactly the same surface with each
successive highlight. Its important to leave a little
of the previous layer showing.
After drybrushing I glazed the cobblestones with
GW Green Glaze and added a little light brown
wash around the patches of sand. The sand was
drybrushed with brown paint and I finished it off
by applying a very light drybrush of Bleached Bone.
When it comes to painting, I use a variety of
colors from different ranges of paints, so I will be
mentioning specific names of paints here, but that
is not meant to limit choices to these very specific
colors. There are many producers to choose from
and its very hard to objectively decide which ones
are the best. So, while I will be mentioning specific
names of paints, I suggest simply using common
sense and mixing your paints or using similar
shades. I recommend doing a quick research online
- you can easily find various charts comparing
paints from different ranges (such as this one http://
www. dakkadakka. com/wi ki /en/Pai nt _Range_
Compatibility_Chart).
I used a painting method that Ive developed over
the years on the Depleted. Its not too complicated
and I find it brings very decent results without too
much effort. The main principles of this method are:
1. Highlighting a given surface (2-3 colors in lighter
shades than the base one).
2. Washing over the highlights with a corresponding,
but slightly darker color of wash.
3. Carefully picking up the details again by
highlighting (once again, 2-3 colors) the most
protruding elements.
These three steps will be used on the skin area and
torn pants. Sometimes I also add very thin glazes
to slightly change the saturation of a color that Im
working on.
I decided to start with the skin, because it constitutes
a major portion of the miniature. According to
the fluff, the Depleted are humans who have been
exposed to a type of energy called Brilliance for
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too long and it has taken toll on their physical
appearance, literally consuming them alive.
Knowing that, I picked colors that would reflect this
condition.
I started with two layers of slightly watered down
Dheneb Stone to get a solid base color for which I
could work later on. It is essential to keep the paints
slightly diluted while working on Wyrd plastics. The
details are fine and its easy to apply too much on the
surface and cover those with a thick layer of paint
that will obscure the details. This was highlighted
with Reaper Master Series Bloodless Skin and very
lightly with VGC Off White.
The three highlights done on the skin prior to
washing
After highlighting, I washed the whole surface
with Army Painter Soft Tone Ink. It softened the
highlights and added a warmer feel to the skin.
When it dried, I carefully repeated the initial
highlights. Then I added one more layer of
highlights mixed with white and went over the most
protruding parts. I also used a very thin glaze of
blue to add to the sickly feel of the skin. Using red
glaze, I also added a few spots to his torso to imitate
wounds and burns.
This miniature comes with an optional arm or
mutated tentacles. I chose the latter, as I thought
it better shows the degeneration of human body
touched by brilliance. Rather than keeping these
the same shade as the major part of the skin, I
chose to add an element of contrast here. I started
by base coating the tentacles with Vallejo Game
Color Hexed Lichen. This was worked up to bright
blue by mixing the base color with increasing
amount of blue paint (P3 Cygnar Blue Base) for
each successive highlight. I decided to add a bit of
coolness to the color and mixed in some white for
a few more highlights which were focused on the
middle sections of the tentacles.
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At this point I applied a few thin layers of Americana
Glow in the Dark Paint. It is semi transparent with
a very slight touch of green/yellow, so it can be
applied on pretty much any bright color you want.
After exposing elements painted with this medium
to light, they glow in the dark! I thought it adds a
nice little extra touch to these models and Ive been
using it for my Jakob crew with pretty decent results.
However, one thing that needs to be remembered is
that the medium is slightly grainy and can affect the
paint job if applied in a thick layer.
The last part of the skin that I worked on here was
the area where tentacles meet the skin. I applied a
few watered down washes of red and added some
black wash for the scorched skin effect. I also painted
his pupils using pure white paint and washed them
with light brown.
After finishing the skin I moved onto another big
area - his pants. These were first base coated with
VGC Charred Brown and was highlighted twice
with the base color and mixed with a gradually
increased addition of lighter brown (P3 Bootstrap
Leather). After doing that, I applied a wash of Army
Painter Dark Wash and let it dry.
Once the pants were dry, I went back and picked up
the highlights again, making sure that I always keep
a little of the previous layer of darker color showing.
I applied a final highlight consisting of P3 Bootstrap
Leather mixed with a small amount of Skull White
to the very edges of the torn pants.
While working on the edges, its essential to choose
a fine detail brush with a solid bristle. Its also
important to be careful while using lighter shades to
make sure that some of the previous layer is showing.
Its easy to overdo and apply too much paint over
previous highlights with one misplaced stroke of
brush that has too much paint on its bristle. It takes
some practice to get the desired effect and areas
where material folds offer plenty of opportunities to
work on this technique.
As I was working on the pants I also painted his
belt and suspenders. The belt was painted with a
base color of VGC Charred Brown and was washed
over with Army Painter Dark Shade. Once it dried,
I applied the highlights. I painted lines that focused
smaller line along the edge of the belt with each
successive highlight. I used VGC Dark Fleshtone
and a final touch of GW Skrag Brown (formerly
known as Vomit Brown).
The suspenders were first primed in black and
following that, I used a very dark and a medium grey
shade to highlight them along the whole length.
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I finished off by painting the rim of the base black
and applying a layer of matte varnish. Once it dried,
I glued some static grass and dark green flock from
Gale Force 9 to the base around patches of dirt.
Here are a few shots of this miniature and the other
Depleted I painted using methods I described.


I hope that at least some of you have found this
tutorial interesting and if you have any questions
you can always find me on the Wyrd forums - I go
by the nickname Viruk there.
Adam H. (PeregrineFalco) Allan (CrimsonWraith) Wilger
Clousseau Chris Parris
Grandpapanurgle
AWOL
Damian (Lord Shaper) Smith
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Henchmen Showcase
Darkside David (Pagan Wolfe) Herbert
Josh (Angry) Bogle
Jonas H.H
LordZombie
Denis (Dgraz) Graziano
Jelle (Yazza) Meersman James (mythicFOX) Doxey
Edonil
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Liam (osoi) Tennant Levi (Lurkerz) Bradley M. Robertson
Mario (G3ck0) Boesmans
Merlin (Mergoth) Goss Nate (Big Ned) Zettle
Markus (Darios) Schaedle Martin (KML) Lindblom
Neil of Orange
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Ross (rcat) Tasker Pandasauce Skedarman
Robert (DevlinMudd) Curry
Will (Pierowmaniac) Lambert
Sevorin
Tim de Groot (ttsgosadow)
Mikael Lindh
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Roy R Clark (LordDarcy)
Sigmund
Sephiroa
Thank you to all of our henchmen
who submitted an entry for this
months Wyrd Chronicles.
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Copyright Wyrd Miniatures, LLC
Copyright Wyrd Miniatures, LLC
Copyright Wyrd Miniatures, LLC
See you next time!

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