We Impact Report Sustainability in Fashion

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We Impact -
Sustainability in Fashion Futures beyond the Hurdles

Date: 14.10.11
Author: Christina Rebel We Impact UK

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Introduction

The fashion industry is fully integrated across the global economy. Facilitated by the globalization
of production, brands gained access to cheaper production facilities in developing countries and a
growing consumer base to purchase their products. Over 26 million people are now employed in
the global garment industry, involving farmers, textile producers, weavers, designers, brand
developers, advertisers, exporters and more
1
. Clearly, the future of fashion will have an impact on
the livelihoods of all those involved in its production through to retail.

The focus of this report is to expound on the environmental and social impacts of the garment
industry, detailing the current impediments to sustainability. Taking a holistic approach, the
analysis will start with fiber production, textile production and finishing, garment manufacturing,
and end with the role of the consumer. In doing so, the environmental effect across the supply
chain will be thoroughly considered.

The garment industry is woven into the fabric of our global economy

The report will situate China at the centre, as it currently holds the position of largest exporter of
textiles since 1995
2
. China takes the lead in terms of market share of the global garment
industry
3
, and is followed by the European Union, Turkey and Bangladesh
4
. According to Cotton
Incorporated, China had produced an estimated three items for every person in the world a total
of 17.8 billion garment products in 2006
5
.

As garment trade continues to move towards China, a focus on the hurdles and promises of the
industry within the country will proceed to the global industry as a whole. There is a definitive
interest for China as well, seeing that the fashion sector accounts for 7.6% of its total trade
volume
6
. In effect, a strategic move towards sustainability in the fashion sector will heed benefits
to both China and the world.

As the state of the garment industry in relation to sustainability is explored at its different stages,
the report will consider the possibilities that can be harnessed for brands, designers and
consumers alike. Presenting examples of sustainable and ethical apparel brands that are
rebranding an alternative path to fashion will provide the examples. Throughout the discussion of
a garments supply chain, the report weaves in designers from across the globe as evidence of a
growing global community seeking an alternative future for fashion. In doing so, their work will be
championed and this will illustrate a more positive outlook to the current state of environmental
disregard in the industry.

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Fiber Production

Starting with the processes that create the textiles for the garments that designers create and
consumers purchase, the environmental impact of this initial process largely depends on the fibre
in question. To a great extent, fibre production is limited to a narrow range of materials, largely
dominated by cotton with an exponential demand for man-made fibers like polyester
7
.

China is currently experiencing a shortage of cotton supply to satisfy the requirements of their
textile factories
8
, despite their total of 50,000 mills in the country
9
. This dependency on cotton
drains water at an appalling rate, requiring 8,000 liters of water for the cultivation of 1 kilogram of
cotton
10
. With estimates revealing that the water table in China an important insight to the state
of aquifer depletion, a non-renewable resource is dropping more than a meter each year
11
,

this
sends alarm signals for a change in strategy.

According to the Institute of Materials, Minerals and Mining, in the production of a kilogram of
cotton nearly 500 grams of pesticides and fertilizers are required
12
. For those workers in the
cotton industry, already enduring severe hardship in the fields, a mere drop of aldicarb absorbed
on their skin can prove fatal a pesticide employed in 26 countries
13
. Organic cotton provides a
pesticide and fertilizer-free alternative to standard cotton, and China is proving to be a vital
support base for its production and is currently the third largest producer after Turkey or India
14
. A
switch to organically produced textile would ensure a significant reduction in the toxic impact of
the garment according to Well Dressed Report, over 90% fall in toxicity
15
.

More than 25% of the worlds pesticides are used in cotton crops, even though cotton accounts
for only three percent of total world crops
16
.

Regarding polyester, a different game is in play that prescribes its unsuitability as a sustainable
fibre. Whilst in relative terms to cotton it is water efficient, polyester is manufactured as a by-
product of petrochemicals, not to mention the oil that is required to convert it into fibre
17
.
Moreover, the creation of polyester emits effluents into the water system that include volatile

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monomers and solvents that drastically pollute waterways
18
. Polyester also discharges antimony
oxide, and whilst its use remains lawful it has been recognized as a carcinogen
19
.

This graph illustrates the unsustainable qualities of popular textiles
20

There is a need for a diverse array of fibre options to secure a sustainable future in the production
of fibers for garments, as no-one fibre will be the solution. Innovation in organic fibers is an
exciting development that has been bolstered by resource scarcity and companies with a long-
term vision into materials. They range from recycled fibres to wild silk, and wood pulp based
LycoCell to soya cashmere. Take a look at the following designers that have all appropriated this
innovative tack in materials to their brands:

Linda Loudermilk has been applauded for her
capacity to marriage gorgeous design with
ecologically innovative materials.

Named as the Vivienne Westwood of Eco by Elle
Magazine, her collections demonstrate that
sophistication is part and parcel of high-end
sustainable fashion.

She even uses SeaCell

technology a variant of
Lyocell, a cellulose derived from 100% sustainable
wood pulp and seaweed.

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Camille Wellton the philosophy of her
brand taps into the growing interest in slow
fashion and investment dressing, by
ensuring that all her garments are made to
measure for tailor-fit comfort and style.

All her garments use sustainable materials
to enhance the design and fit of the design
as seen in her tan colored coat made from
luxurious moleskin, a plant fibre based
textile.

She also uses certified hemp-silk
materials, bamboo cotton and modal, an
experimental textile made from Birch trees.

For the daring lovers of Camille Welltons
coat designs, there is also the opportunity
to mix and match elements of different
designs to create your unique sustainably
beautiful coat.

La vie by Jenni Lie - drawing cultural cues from both western and eastern design, her design
oozes class and timeless elegance. She trained in Italy as a Fashion Designer and returned to
Shanghai to develop her Chinese lifestyle brand. The curated popularity of La Vie has driven her
to expand her business into bridal designs and mothercare. She insists her designs use eco-
friendly materials, not only because it is beneficial to the environment but most importantly
because it's pleasant to touch and visually stunning.

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Prophetik by Jeff Garner with avant-garde designs for both men and women, his ready to wear
garments are stocked in high-end boutiques across the world. In 2010, he was named Eco Mens
Designer of the Year at London Fashion Week.

Raised in a horse farm in rural Tennessee, his attachment to nature is evoked in his designs.
Novel materials like greenspun fleece made out of recycled bottles and hemp softened with
baking soda also places his designs at the forefront in the industry in terms of fibre innovation.

The Battalion by Linda and Chrys Wong trademarked
as modern purveyors of green luxury, these two sisters
signal the most sought after trends and current eco
friendly materials in the creation of their edgy and
eloquent garments. Established in 2006, The Battalion is
an expression for those iconoclastic individuals seeking
unique flair to their lifestyle.

It began with fabricating coats and jackets manufactured
with cashmere sweaters recycled from rag mills to what is
now one of the most regarded eco-designers in this
flourishing sustainability industry.

They adore peace silk known for its name as it
processed using silkworm cocoons without killing the
pupae inside. Alongside the faux fur made from
synthetics mixed with recycled plastics, and wood pulp
fibers, all their textiles are sourced from Shienzen, China.

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Textile Production and Finishing

What is also known as the wet processing the pretreatment, dyeing, printing, finishing and
coating, and washing of a textile is a concern for the environment for the volume of water it
discharges and the chemical compounds that the effluent water generates. Especially in the
dyeing process, harmful substances are generated from the coloring and metals of the dye itself,
the dispersing and anti-foaming agents that assist the dye formulation, the supplementary alkali,
salts and oxidizing agents required, and the left over residues of pesticides of the fiber
21
.

This matter is evident in denim capital, Xintang, suffering of converted blue lakes because of the
dyes required for the production of jeans
22
. To tackle this matter, Levi Strauss & Co developed
the Water<Less initiative that reduces average water consumption by 28 percent and up to 98
percent in their new models
23
. Unique to denim production, the process of sand blasting that
gives the jean its worn look has been attacked by fair trade campaigns for its link to silicosis, a
potentially lethal pulmonary disease
24
. Thanks to the efforts of the Clean Clothes Campaign,
brands like H&M and Gucci have publicly banned the use of sandblasting, whilst Dolce &
Gabanna still remains to ignore the call
25
.

In the case of wool, the greasiness and impurities inherent in the natural fibre requires a process
of scouring that of wet cleaning before yarn manufacture that results in more than 1.5kg of
sludge for every kilogram of scoured wool
26
. Both for cotton and wool, a switch to organically
produced textile ensures a significant reduction in the toxic impact of the garment according to
Well Dressed Report, over 90% fall in toxicity
27
.

A study by the LCA suggests that in the entire lifetime of a viscose dress, more than 19% of
green house gas emissions will be attributed to the dyeing process
28
. In the case of nylon, it is not
only energy intensive but produces emissions of nitrous oxide, the deadliest of greenhouse
gases
29
. For polyester, dye applications only work at a temperature at 100 degrees Celsius or
higher, resulting in further intensive energy consumption
30
. That said, the required energy for the
preparation of materials during the wet process for further manufacturing also depends on the
shades of dye, where darker shades require more rinsing than lighter dyes.

The preparation of the textile need not be as water inefficient, energy consuming and toxic as it
typically has been. Many textiles have a natural color that can be harnessed for unique designs,
natural pigments can be a suitable color wash and if a designer has to stick to dyes, there are
cleaner options available. The following designers prove the case:

Icicle There is a reason why this brand is Chinas
largest eco-friendly clothing manufacturer. They
make quality workwear for both men and women,
with classic designs that defines its simplicity.

Founded in 1997, the brand now boasts more than
60 stores across China. Much more than a
temporary trend, Icicle proves that sustainable
fashion is here to stay and flourish.

It constantly pioneers new textiles with a proven
track record in sustainability, and also provides a
distinct collection of undyed fabrics as an extra.

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Snoozer Loser by Sonia Tay a green
light in Shanghais fashion scene, its
alternative feel is evident in the wide range
of dresses, blouses, pants, accessories
and scarves.

Their designs have the definitive vintage
look, seen in this boho inspired birdcage
sketch on an organic cotton scarf.

Whats best is that all their textiles are
hand-dyed with natural pigments, proving
its exterior quality is matched with the life
philosophy of Sonia Tay.

Finch Designs by Heather Kaye and Itee Son
Based in Shanghai, their clothing exemplifies
durability and quality with its exclusive patterns
that puts a name to the brand.

Tuned into the sustainable possibilities of
natural fibers, they also recognize the
aggravating effects of the dye process to water
pollution and have sought low-impact dyes that
not only dont require toxic mordant but also
provide for a long lasting finish to their unique
garments, like this kimono loungewear piece.

Whats more, their aim is to have a Carbon
Neutral Design Collective facility by 2012 in the
outskirts of the metropolitan city.

Elena Garcia her designs for women of
all ages are not just aesthetically pleasing,
they too are dye safe. Using dye free from
metal, amine and other toxic compounds,
since she made her swap she has been
convinced.

Fusing exquisite style with a real sense of
environmental responsibility, there is a
reason why she received so much
attention in past Eco Chic Shanghai
Catwalks.

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Manufacturing

It is at manufacturing process of a garment that the possibilities for greater sustainability within
the fashion industry focuses more on the social concerns. The fierce competition for cheaper
production that has been fostered by globalization has driven down wages and led brands to turn
a blind eye to the working conditions of garment workers
31
. Most garment workers are women
and migrants, with a desperate need for work in order to sustain their families in their rural
communities
32
. In effect, their collective bargaining position is weakened and they are driven to
work longer hours and take disparate breaks
33
. At this final stage of production there are
important environmental concerns to consider as well. According to one study, scrap fabric is the
major part of the total solid waste generation of a garment factory
34
.

In light of this, for sustainability to be integral at this stage of garment manufacturing, efforts
should be made to reduce the overall scrap textile waste, to seek ways to protect artisan workers
and their craft techniques, as well as foster favorable working conditions with adequate
remuneration. A socially sustainable factory would begin with the health of their workers, pay a
living wage that will provide for their necessities and treat them with respect and dignity. A return
to artisan craft and a shift away large garment houses is also an efficient way of supporting a
local economy and to honor traditional and cultural styles. This can also prove effective in
strengthening the rural communities whom find their inhabitants are forced to urban centers for
employment. Drawing out designs that use less material will also prove cost efficient for factory
owners, as they have to pay less for the disposal of their factories waste.

Cecilia Yau - Specializing in bridal and
evening gowns, Cecilia uses intricate
embroideries and three-dimensional
tailoring to create her stunning and eye-
catching couture designs.

She has little tolerance for waste in the
tailoring process of her ornate designs. Her
team knows to use utilize materials as
effectively as possible, and the left over
fabrics that are collected are used for
future collections and artistic sculptures.

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Urban Tribe more than just another eco-brand, their store in Shanghai appears more like a
sanctuary than your classical clothes store. Drawing inspiration from ethnic groups in South East
Asia, the brands ethos centers on supporting artisan craft and invites shoppers to immerse
themselves in that culture. Alongside its minimalist fashion collection and other eco-friendly
products, one can indulge in their tea house to enjoy their added dose of zen.

Shanghai Trio this brand welcomes a return to traditional Chinese craftwork, as if every
accessory could capture a hint of Chinese history. The forward-thinking vision for their designs is
apparent, nonetheless, as seen in their use of bamboo and organic fibres. This jewelry pocket
inspired by the Chinese tradition of wrapping is made out of fine silk, to mention one item of their
diverse range bags, scarves and accessories available.

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Afia awarded an innovation award by the
Ethical Fashion Forum, their concepts
define the urban indigenous a blend of
striking West African prints and urban
vogue.

Their philosophy as a social business is to
provide economic mobility for Ghanaian
women, by ensuring their welfare in the
production process and a dignified living
wage for their labor.

Bhalo in search of new socially minded concepts for their designs, Bhalo travels far to
Bangladesh where they work with a collective of fair trade producers. Their focus on the local
economy allows a story to be told about the people and the communities behind the clothes that
we buy. To tackle the mechanization of the garment industry that has left many jobless, most of
the sewing of their pieces is done by foot powered pedal sewing machines. Bhalos online shop is
complete with trendy outfits to inspire the sustainable eye for fashion.

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This report has highlighted that a sustainable approach to fashion is, in fact, already here.
Consumers have a positive and vital role to ensure a sufficient demand for the clothing and
accessories of these pioneering brands, who prove to tackle the severe environmental problems
seen throughout the supply chain of a garment: be it in fibre production, textile preparation or
garment manufacture. Listing numerous Chinese designers and brands based in Shanghai and
Beijing, Chinese Youth have a multitude of homegrown options to choose from. This in effect, will
also address the environmental impact of transporting garments to retail stores. Most importantly,
this report is testament to a growing fashion collective whose designs and garments demonstrate
that style, desirability and human spirit come hand-in-hand with sustainability.

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*+,+-+$%+(

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Chinese Garment Manufacturers Towards Sustainability, Available at:
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laundry-report.pdf

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laundry-report.pdf

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better than synthetic?', available at: http://www.sustainability-ed.org.uk/support_materials/cotton-
polyester%20LCA.pdf

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13. Lee, Matilda (2009) 'Whats the most sustainable fabric', The Ecologist. Available at:
http://www.theecologist.org/green_green_living/clothing/268798/whats_the_most_sustainable_fabri
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polyester%20LCA.pdf

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laundry-report.pdf

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oeB9NzA4ZWUwMTYtYjU1OS00MjdiLTgyY2EtY2E3NTkyZjU1NzJh&hl=en

25. Clean Clothes Campaign (2011) Stop the Killer Jeans, available at:
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28. Business for Social Responsibility (2009) 'Apparel Industry Life Cycle Carbon Mapping', available at:
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34. Tetra Tech EM Inc. (2006) 'Green Garments Guidebook', available at:
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