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The Saguaro Army

By MRS. PAULINE HENSON


Ft. Huachuca, Arizona
Legion on legion,
Encamped upon the sands.
Each soldier a Goliath,
The Saguaro Army stands
Armed and at attention,
Silent and still,
Yet marching through the desert,
Guarding on the hill.
Sentries by the roadside,
Battalions on the plain
Endure the sun and wind and dust,
Defy the lack of rain.
Commandoes slip through canyon,
Scouts climb upon the trail;
Two giants hold the mountain pass
And know they must not fail.
Spirits of Armageddon
Nature has consigned
To stand the desert's burning watch
Until the end of time!

WALK SOFTLY WHEN THE


YUCCAS BLOOM
By MILDRED BREEDLOVE
Las Vegas, Nevada
National Park Service Photo Walk softly when the yuccas bloom—
Assume a gentle air.
ROSE-SWEET DESERT WIND HIDDEN MAGIC For desert life is harsh and stern,
And spring may not again return
By TEX REESE By ANONA MCCONAGHY To yuccas and agaves there
Perris, California Bellftower, California For many years.
A red, red rose has served for me The desert hides her beauties Salt cedar plumes may come and go,
To tame the sand-waves tossing high, From the casual eye, And cacti stage a brilliant show,
The boisterous wind, the laughing throng Small creatures are nocturnal, But yucca spears
Where sage the chipmunks sport among. Desert birds are shy. Do not, two springtimes in a row,
Gay cactus and the song-birds free The desert hides her treasures Give way to such magnificence!
All share this freedom found of me From eager eyes of men, So walk with reverence
Beneath the desert's golden sky. Rich veins of gold and silver When moisture comes to desert sand
Found, and lost again. And yucca buds begin to swell,
Each passer-by my rose may see, The desert hides her magic For angels must be close at hand
From golden dawn to fall of eve; With blends of beige and gray. To guard each bursting bell.
May pause and read, in fragrant clime. How often he who lingers
My paraphrasing some quaint rhyme • • •
Gives his heart away.
And watch the wild life romp in glee, SILVER PEACE
Or share a happy hour with me, By CONSTANCE WALKER
Mayhap a crimson flower retrieve. Los Angeles, California
In silence or when winds are high,
A KING DEPARTS
By ETHLYNE FOLSOM SPRINGER Walk in the desert,
By starry night or dewy dawn Solitude has much to share,
This red rose planted here by me La Mesa, California
You will feel congenial warmth
Wafts love-like fragrance rich and free As for proud conquistador In the balm of crystal air.
To charm and cheer each passer-by. Traveling on the Royal Way,
Like ocean-tides when waves are high, Walk in the sunlight,
My rose-sweet Desert Winds roll on! Pomp and splendor mark the passing Yearning eyes are sure to trace
Of a Western desert day. In a glass of ether-blue,
• • • Circling pine and ancient cedar A familiar mirrored face.
THE OLD GHOST TOWN Swing their censers, so that he
By MRS. GLADYS THOMAS May depart in perfumed glory, Walk in the silence
Fallon, Nevada While stars chant the Rosary. And a loving voice will come
Desert winds in muted voices, From the whispering of sage
Like a little old lady, is the old ghost town, Tell of all that was and is; In the wind's persistent hum.
Dozing and dreaming, in the fierce summer Hills, like Cardinals in crimson,
heat; Watch above the obsequies. Walk in the desert
Remembering the days when she was young, For your heart will be aware
And had thousands of men at her feet. On a lustered path of moonlight,
She had never had beauty, she regretfully Silver-peace is waiting there.
sighs, • • •
But her wealth made her queen for a while.
Men had hurried to her from all over the
world,
Faith HIGH DESERT
By TANYA SOUTH By ELIZABETH L. SARGENT
And battled, and fought for her smile. Ontario, California
How deep then is your Faith? Do There's a cabin on a hillside
For some she had smiled, and poured out you not know
her gold, Where the desert calls to me,
That every blessed thing that you And the nights are long and peaceful
Giving life promise and zest; bestow
Others she'd spurned, bringing death and And my heart from care is free.
Must in full measure all return to There, the chaparral comes creeping
despair, you?
This wild, lusty queen of the west. Silver gray, up to the door,
Now she is old, and forsaken by all, And if you give but love, love will And the night winds whisper music
Her treasure long since spent; pursue No one ever heard before.
But, clasped in the arms of the encircling Your days and all your ways, and I can close my eyes and listen,
will unlock Lost in wonder and delight,
hills, All doors, all barriers that ever block.
With her memories, and dreams, she's Drifting off to dreamless slumber
content. Until morning brings new light.

DESERT MAGAZINE
DESERT CALENDAR
July 3-4 — Gunnison Valley Days,
Gunnison, Utah.
July 3-4 — Mounted Patrol Rodeo,
Fort Sumner, New Mexico.
July 3-5—Bit & Spur Rodeo, Tooele,
Utah.
July 3-6—Annual Fiesta and Moun-
tain Spirits Dance, Mescalero
Apache Agency, New Mexico.
July 3-6—Cowhands Rodeo, Cloud-
croft, New Mexico.
July 3-6—25th Annual Hopi Crafts-
man Exhibit, Museum of Northern
Arizona, Flagstaff.
July 4—Independence Day Celebra-
tions in most Southwestern com- Volume 21 JULY. 1958 Number 7
munities.
July 4 and 24 — Ute Indian Sun
Dance, Roosevelt, Utah. COVER Monument Valley (see story on p a g e 5)
July 4-5—71st Annual Frontier Days
Rodeo, Prescott, Arizona. By JOSEF MUENCH
July 4-6—2nd Annual Antelope Val- POETRY The Saguaro Army and other poems . . . . 2
ley Rodeo and Roundup. Parade
on 4th. Palmdale, California. CALENDAR July events on the desert 3
July 4-6—Sierra Club's Desert Peaks
Section hike to Wheeler Peak, near EXPERIENCE Where We Found Happiness
Lehman Caves National Monument, By SAVOLA FENLEY 4
Nevada.
July 4-6 — Rodeo and Silver Spurs SERVICE White Man's Medicine in Monument Valley
Award Presentation, Reno. By NELL MURBARGER 5
July 4-6—30th Annual Southwest All- DESERT QUIZ
Indian Pow Wow, Flagstaff. A test of your desert knowledge 10
July 10-12 — Ute Stampede, Nephi, CLOSE-UPS About those who write for Desert 10
Utah.
July 10-13—Rodeo, Santa Fe. LANDMARK Guest Register in Stone, By H. N. FERGUSON . 11
July 12—Fourth Annual Sun Wor- TRAVEL Back-Road on the Mojave
shipers Fiesta, Borrego Springs,
California. By ELIZABETH WARD 13
July 12-14—All Faces West Pageant, CONTEST
Ogden, Utah. Picture-of-the-Month contest announcement . . 16
July 14—Corn Dance, Cochiti Pue- SCIENCE
Roving Laboratory of the Desert
blo, New Mexico.
July 17-19—Dinosaur Roundup Ro- By RANDALL HENDERSON 18
deo, Vernal, Utah. GARDENING
Roots in the Water—Fronds in the Sunshine . . 21
July 18-19—Mt. Timpanogos Hike, LETTERS
American Fork, Utah. Comment from Desert's readers 22
July 18-19 — Square Dance Festival, HISTORY
Show Low, Arizona. Fort Davis, by JOSEF and JOYCE MUENCH . 23
NATURE
July 18-19, 21-24—Days of '47 Ro- River of the Bitter Waters
deo. Parades on 18th and 24th.
Salt Lake City. FICTION By EDMUND C. JAEGER 24
July 19, 21, 23-24 — Pioneer Days Hard Rock Shorty of Death Valley 26
Celebration and Rodeo, Ogden, FORECAST
Utah. ASTRONOMY Southwest river runoff predictions 27
July 23-24—San Juan County Fair, Big Eyes Among Desert Pines
Monticello, Utah.
July 23-24—Pioneer Days Celebra- NEWS By GASTON BURRIDGE 28
tions: Snowflake Rodeo, St. Johns From here and there on the desert 31
Rodeo, and Safford, Arizona; MINING
Bountiful Handcart Days, Orem HOBBY Current news of desert mines 35
Utah Valley Days, Roosevelt Ro-
deo, Springville, Cedar Fort, Eph- LAPIDARY Gems and Minerals 37
raim, Milford, Lehi, Fountain Amateur Gem Cutter, b y DR. H. C. DAKE . . 41
Green, Hyrum, Marysvale and COMMENT
Meadow, Utah. BOOKS Just Between You a n d Me, b y the Editor . . . 42
July 26 — Corn Dance and Fiesta, Reviews of Southwestern literature 43
Taos and Santa Ana pueblos, N.M. PHOTOGRAPHY
July 26-27—County Fair, Los Ala- Pictures of the Month back cover
mos, New Mexico.
July 27 — Sheriff's Posse Roundup, The Desert Magazine is published monthly by the Desert Press, Inc., Palm Desert,
Flagstaff. California. Re-entered as second class matter July 17, 1948, at the postoffice at Palm Desert,
July 27-August 3—Navajo Craftsman California, under the Act of March 3, 1879. Title registered No. 358865 in U. S. Patent Office,
Exhibit, Museum of Northern Ari- and contents copyrighted 1958 by the Desert Press, Inc. Permission to reproduce contents
must be secured from the editor in writing.
zona, Flagstaff. RANDALL HENDERSON, Editor EUGENE L. CONROTTO, Associate Editor
July 28-29—Blue Mountain Rodeo, BESS STACY, Business Manager EVONNE RIDDELL, Circulation Manager
Monticello, Utah. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs submitted cannot be returned or acknowledged
July 29-August 7 — 1958 National unless full return postage is enclosed. Desert Magazine assumes no responsibility for
Soaring (glider) Championships, damage or loss of manuscripts or photographs although due care will be exercised. Sub-
Bishop, California. scribers should send notice of change of address by the first of the month preceding issue.
July 31-August 2 — Harvest Days, SUBSCRIPTION RATES
Midvale, Utah. One Year S4.00 Two Years $7.00
July 31-August 3 — Eastern Sierra Canadian Subscriptions 25c Extra. Foreign 50c Extra
Tri-County Fair, Bishop, California. Subscriptions to Army Personnel Outside U. S. A. Must Be Mailed in Conformity With
P. O. D. Order No. 19687
Address Correspondence to Desert Magazine, Palm Desert, California

JULY, 1958
LIFE ON THE D E S E R T

Where We Found
Happiness...
And so, where in all the world could
The desert was so new, so vast—so magnificent. From the first my husband have left me to better be-
moment they laid eyes on the startling Indian Wells Valley and its gin the reconstruction of my life—the
bordering mountain ranges, the Fenleys knew that this was their life of which 33 years were spent with
promised land. Here they grew to love every phase of desert living, him — than here in this little house
and here they found peace and contentment. which serves as study, studio and liv-
ing room, every window looking out
By SAVOLA FENLEY to my everlasting and everchanging
hills and mountains!
N OCTOBER, 1943, a message These denizens we have loved as we He passed away in February, 1957.
came from my husband's brother have loved everything about this des- As I write, the sun set only minutes
who was on the Mojave Desert. ert. Even the wind, so annoying to ago. In the east hangs the pale moon
He urged my husband to make no most, has been like a therapy to us— surrounded by the still rose colored
delay in coming out to stake a claim soothing as it sings in the greasewood clouds of the sunset. It is all mauve
adjacent to those on which he had which only those attunded to things of and rose toward our old Red Moun-
found "rich tungsten and gold indica- the desert can hear. tain, too.
tions." Tungsten then was a very im- Recently, a young woman visitor The air has the chill of winter, birds
portant war mineral and "we all might who has been at the base since 1944, are on the wing, flitting happily by in
become rich." It sounded good, so remarked that she had lost her former this moment before dusk, going wher-
we made the trip. ever birds go for the night.
awareness of the wind, but the memory
This very first visit to the desert of the desert in those early days is al- Fading now are the colors of the
was the beginning of life for us. The ways with her. magnificent desert sunset. But, as I
tungsten and gold on our claim did look toward the El Pasos. there,
In a way, we were pioneers. When brushed out across the southern hori-
not pan out too well, which was a we moved here all that one could see
deep disappointment to my husband, zon, are even more beautiful rose and
on the floor of the desert was the hog gray clouds in this last moment before
but we soon learned that finding gold ranch, a dairy, and the few houses
in the truest sense is to find it within twilight.
occupied by old-timers. A gas station,
one's self. grocery store and postoffice made up A DIPLOMATIC MESSAGE
During the early war years the Navy the business district. Now people STRAIGHT TO THE POINT
had established a base near our claims coming to visit me at night see a myr-
at Inyokern, and since we could not iad of lights below from the city that August 3, 1853. . . . The excite-
make a living at mining, I suggested to has nearly every modern convenience ment occasioned by the threats of
my husband that he get a job at the and facility. Walkara, the Utah chief, continued to
base. Prospecting could be a sideline increase during the day we spent at
The best of life has been lived in Parawan (Utah). Families flocked in
So he returned to the desert. I re- this small home. I doubt if it would from . . . small settlements and farms,
mained at our home on the coast have been the same had we settled in bringing with them their movables,
until I could join him, for there was the boom town adjoining the base. We and their flocks and herds. Parties of
no available housing at Inyokern. still would have gone out on those mounted men . . . patrolled the coun-
My husband made plans to build a wonderful treasure hunts for gem try . . . During our stay, Walkara sent
home on a site overlooking the vast stones, pretty rocks and old bottles a polite message to Colonel G. A.
Indian Wells Valley. To this day, turned to roval purple by the sun's Smith, who had military command of
when visitors arrive for the first time, rays. We still would have gone down the district . . . telling him that "the
there are always exclamations over the the many roads we traveled, looking Mormons were fools for abandoning
magnificent view from our home—the for old camps or merely browsing their houses and towns, for he (Wal-
panorama of the valley below, the along on tranquil days! The rain would kara) did not intend to molest them
towering Sierras and Mount Whitney's have been the same—the marvelous there, as it was his intention to con-
snow-clad peak, the arid El Pasos, and rain which permeates the air with that fine his depredations to their cattle,
the massive ranges guarding Death heavenly pungent aroma of creosote. and that he advised them to return
Valley. But, our isolated home gave us even and mind their crops, for, if they
Our home is remote, being two miles
more. . •. • neglected them, they would starve, and
from the highway and eight miles from Today I had very special visitors, be obliged to leave the country, which
the base. Over the years we have and in my guest book they wrote: "A was not what he desired, for then
hauled every precious drop of water highlight in our lives, a great privilege, there would be no cattle for him to
for domestic use and for the birds, and today we have found in this home take."—Gwinn Harris Heap's Central
rabbits, chipmunks and the many other what all the world is seeking—peace Route to the Pacific, Journal of E. F.
little animals which steal in at night. and contentment." ,., , Beale, published in 1854.

4 DESERT MAGAZINE
White Man's Medicine
Monument
..

Buildings of the Monument Valley Mission Hospital and living quarters for staff
members are situated in a deep and scenic canyon a short distance west of the
Goulding Trading Post.

New hope for a better way of life has come to the scattered Navajo extended to us in greeting was firm and
and white residents of the vast 10,000-square-mile Monument Valley. steady.
It stems from the Mission Hospital operated there for the past few years Speaking in his native tongue, the
by a handful of dedicated medical missionaries working under the patriarch fell easily into conversation
auspices of the Seventh-day Adventist Church. with my companions, Maurice Knee,
who has spent most of his life amongst
By NELL MURBARGER the Navajos, and Marvin and Gwen
Photographs by the author Walter, who have been ministering to
the tribe for over 15 years.
THE ragged canvas old medicine man, Gray Whiskers, Examining Gray Whiskers' band-
covering aside, we passed single whom we had come to see. aged foot, which he had broken several
file through the low door of the That he had been a handsome man weeks earlier, Gwen explained to the
hogan. As the warm bright glare of was obvious; but now his saddle- old man that the bones had healed
the desert morning gave way to the brown face was etched with the wis- well, but that he must stimulate circu-
gloomy half-dark of the dwelling's in- dom and weariness of more than 80 lation by massaging the foot and al-
terior, it was a moment before I could years. Across his upper lip lay a mus- ternately soaking it in hot and cold
see the three persons in that room. tache as thin and gray as the straggling water; also, that he should gradually
On a worn sheep pelt spread upon hair bound back by the black cotton resume walking without the aid of his
the red-sand floor, sat a young Nav- headband; he was clad in an odd- crutches.
aio woman, her arms cradling a baby; assortment of cast-off garments. The Then Gwen switched her attention
across the hogan, closer to the smol- old eyes, however, still mirrored a to the sickly baby girl in the arms of
dering juniper-wood fire, squatted the strange keenness, and the thin hand the young mother, one of Gray Whis-

JULY, 195 8
ter the story of this humanitarian proj-
ect which is so close to their hearts.
Before the Mission was established
eight years ago, residents of the area
who were seriously injured or severely
ill had three possible alternatives: If
they were whites they bumped over
the then rough road to the hospital
at Monticello, 100 miles to the north.
If they were Navajos they were
taken over an equally rough road to
the Indian hospital at Tuba City, Ari-
zona. The third alternative was to call
in the medicine man. Although trained
in the ritualistic sings and sand paint-
ings, and familiar with the curative
properties of native herbs, these na-
tive practitioners know virtually noth-
ing of surgery, antibiotics, or other
modern life-saving processes.
Realizing the urgent need for better
medical facilities in Monument Valley,
Harry Goulding and his wife "Mike,"
veteran traders in Monument Valley
{Desert Magazine, August, '57), had
tried for years to interest one of the
church organizations in establishing a
medical mission in the Valley. They
offered their moral support plus a re-
newable 99-year lease on 10 acres of
land with water available.
It was the Seventh-day Adventist
Church which accepted the challenge,
and in September, 1950, established
Monument Valley's first hospital. Its
headquarters was a small house trailer
located at the base of a towering red-
sandstone cliff a short distance from
Goulding's, and its staff consisted of
one registered nurse—Gwen Walter—
tall, slender, soft-spoken, 41 years of
On the hospital steps, from left, Dr. J. Lloyd Mason and his wife, Alice; age, and the mother of two boys and
Gwen Walter and her husband Marvin, Mission Hospital director. a girl.
"When we began our work, there
kers' several daughters. Suspecting wonderful program of the Monument were only 600 persons, six pickup
that the infant needed some food ele- Valley Mission Hospital, a Seventh- trucks, and not one paved road in all
ment lacking in her mother's milk, day Adventist institution administered the 10,000 square miles we were to
Gwen gave the young woman a bottle locally by the Rev. Marvin Walter, serve," recalled Gwen. "Today, due
of vitamins and explained their use. director, and his wife, Gwen, a regis- to uranium and other developments,
A pair of laughing tousle-haired grand- tered nurse, and ably assisted by Dr. the population is probably close to
sons of the old man came racing across J. Lloyd Mason, resident physician, 5000.
the dunes from their nearby tent home. and his wife, Alice, also a nurse. Upon "Last year we gave medical care to
They had no ailment so serious that these four good-natured hard-working over 3000 persons. Since our hospital
a handful of red and yellow lollipops, persons, some 4000 others—both In- is the only established medical facility
which Maurice produced from a box dians and whites—are dependent for in the 200 miles between Tuba City
in the jeep, could not cure. their around-the-clock medical assist- and Monticello, many of these patients
With Gray Whiskers and his prog- ance. The fact that these potential came to us from points as far as 50
eny clustered about the door of the patients are thinly scattered over 10,- miles away.
hogan waving farewell, we again 000 square miles of desert, is but one "For several years the Presbyterian
climbed into our jeep and started off of the unique features of operating a Mission at Kayenta, 25 miles to the
down the rutted sandy trail toward clinic in Monument Valley on the south, had a registered nurse, and
the next isolated family on Gwen's Arizona-Utah border, 175 miles from visiting doctors came periodically from
roster of Navajo out-patients. the nearest railroad. the splendid hospital at Ganado to
Not until after sunset—seven hours As Maurice Knee skilfully piloted help serve the medical needs of that
and numerous calls later—did we re- the jeep through treacherous blow area. Today, however, the regular
turn to the hospital, tired, hungry and sand, up and over dunes, and around nurse is gone and the Public Health
wind-burned, but with the good feel- and among the great sandstone mono- nurse does what she can for the com-
ing that comes from doing a worth- liths which give Monument Valley its munity."
while task. name, I had the opportunity that day As we went from hogan to hogan
This was my introduction to the to learn from Marvin and Gwen Wal- that day it was obvious that the Wal-

DESERT MAGAZINE
Vivian Christensen, standing, and some of her pupils in the Mission school.
ters are held in deep respect and af- medicine was good, too, and that com- medicine men have great knowledge
fection by everyone in Monument bined they made a really powerful concerning the use of native herbs.
Valley, Indians and whites alike. medicine, they began calling me—but "They have one potion for halting
That evening the Masons invited the not until after they had conducted tooth decay—and it really seems to do
Walters and I to visit their comfort- their sing. We told them that if they the job!" she said. "They also com-
able cottage on the canyonside above would call me sooner, the patient pound a snake-bite medicine that is
the hospital, and there I learned more would not become so ill; and before very effective; and they have some
about the fine work these medical mis- too long, they began calling me at the native herb to stop vomiting which is
sionaries are doing at this remote des- same time they came in to get ma- better than anything I know!"
ert outpost. terials for their sing. This live-and-let-live attitude and
Knowing the reluctance of some of "Old Gray Whiskers was the last willingness to accept the other man's
the tribesmen to accept missionary medicine man to accept us, but even beliefs at face value, is partially re-
teachers and modern practices, I asked he gradually lost his prejudice, and sponsible for the high regard in which
Gwen if they had encountered much now permits us to administer our med- the Monument Valley Mission Hospi-
opposition to their work. She answered ication at the same time his ritualistic tal is held by everyone familiar with
"no." ceremony is in progress. its work.
"Even when we first came to Mon- "Harry tells us that nowadays he Actually the institution is a hospital
ument Valley," she said, "the people sells very little material for sings— in name only. Down the canyonside
came to us readily—only the medicine that the people come to get us instead." a short distance from the present build-
men were reluctant to accept us. After The ministrations of the medicine ing, is the foundation and partially-
Harry Goulding explained to them that men are not confined to superstition. erected walls of what eventually will
their medicine was good, and our According to Gwen some of the older be the hospital. Due to lack of funds,
Marvin Walter, kneeling, and Maurice Knee explain Gwen Walter discusses health problems with two
proper course of treatment for his injured foot to Navajo travelers while her husband Marvin, left, and
medicine man Gray Whiskers. Maurice Knee look on.
living quarters at Bitahochee, an In-
dian trading post 40 miles to the north.
Any young wife and mother not
completely dedicated to a missionary's
life might have found cause to com-
plain, for their living quarters at Bita-
hochee consisted of an abandoned
Navajo hogan, 16 feet across at floor
level. In this single room the Walters
and their three children resided for
22 months—during which time Mar-
vin was obliged to jack-knife his six-
foot-three-inch frame through a front
door that measured only 48 inches
from sill to top!
In 1945 the Walters returned to
Holbrook and secured land for the
erection of a boarding school, which
they helped to build and operate. To-
day the Holbrook Mission School has
more than 100 boarding Navajo and
Hopi students, and is teaching up to
the 10th grade.
Moving to their present post in
September, 1950, the Walters estab-
lished their home in a small house
trailer and carried on their clinical
activities from a second trailer. For
Nurse Gwen Walter plays with a happy Navajo baby while his mother the first six and a half years, the Mis-
looks on. White cloth in background is a bedsheet canopy fastened to the sion Hospital's entire medical program
hogan's ceiling so sand will not fall into the baby's eyes. was the sole responsibility of Gwen
Walter, the first resident physician not
all work on the building is now at a In addition to operational funds being assigned there until the spring
standstill. Since present facilities do budgeted by the Seventh-day Advent- of 1957. After four months, this
not meet requirements set for Indian ists, the hospital receives much help physician was obliged to resign due to
reservation hospitals, the operation is from persons outside the church—one illness, and again Gwen took over on
licensed only as a clinic, and as such, of its important income sources being a round-the-clock basis. In February
can hold a patient for a maximum of voluntary donations made by guests of of this year, the hospital staff was ma-
24 hours, after which the ill or injured the Gouldings, who see the work being terially augmented by the arrival of
person must be transferred either to done and have been generous in their Dr. and Mrs. Mason, who came to the
the Monticello or Tuba City hospital. contributions. mission from Bishop, California, where
"In obstetrical cases, we are per- he had been engaged in private prac-
Besides medical assistance, the hos- tice.
mitted to keep the mother and child pital crew also distributes used clothing
until we feel they can return home in to needy families—one room at the The Monument Valley Mission Hos-
safety," said Gwen. "In some in- clinic is maintained as a clothing supply pital has charged no fees for medical,
stances, this is less than 24 hours, but depot where contributed garments are surgical, or nursing services rendered
rarely over 30." sorted for type and size and stored to the Navajos, or for medicine pro-
After traveling the 100 miles of away on clean dry shelves. Estab- vided.
badly corrugated road between Tuba lished sources provide all the used "As a missionary nurse, I did not
City and Monument Valley, it seemed clothing they can absorb, and readers charge for my services. I did accept
to me that a person ill enough to who have garments they wish to con- their free-will offerings, and some ex-
require hospitalization would be seri- tribute to the Navajos should send pressed their appreciation in that man-
ously endangered by a ride over that them to other recognized agencies ner. However, now that we have a
wracking course. Marvin agreed. where the need may be greater. doctor, we will be making charges
"It would be a terribly hazardous Watching the neighborly manner in based on ability to pay. The Navajos
trip, but we have a Good Samaritan— pay their medicine men very well, and
which Marvin and Gwen Walter dealt we feel that those able to do so will be
Tommy Fraka—who has given us in- with their Indian clients the next day,
calculable aid. Tommy is a mining equally willing to pay us," Gwen said.
contractor who has worked at various exhibiting neither drippy sentimental- The mission staff includes Miss Viv-
uranium mines in the vicinity. He flies ity nor the impersonal coldness of a ian Christensen, a graduate of Pacific
his own plane, which he keeps at filing-card system, it was evident that Union College, who teaches all grades
Goulding's airport. In the past two they are ideally suited for this exacting and all subjects at the day school.
years he has provided air-ambulance work. Their home originally was at Vivian appears but little older than
service for dozens of critical cases— St. Helena, California, and their first some of her pupils. Before coming to
sometimes making as many as three mission work was with the Maricopa Monument Valley she taught for two
round-trips to Tuba City in a single Indians near Phoenix. In November, terms at an Adventist school in Africa,
week. He cheerfully donates his time 1941, they were transferred to Hol- where her parents are engaged in mis-
and expenses, and many lives have brook, Arizona, and began working in sionary activities.
been saved as a result of his efforts. the southern and western portions of Prior to establishing the present in-
Other contributors have been ex- the Navajo Reservation, remaining stitution five years ago, there had never
tremely open-hearted, too," said Gwen. there until they were able to obtain been a school in Monument Valley.

8 DESERT MAGAZINE
Starting in a small way, it has grown "I should think all this would keep trances, are capable of performing
steadily to an enrollment of 20 stu- you busy about 26 hours each day," physical feats far beyond their ordinary
dents, including six white children and I said. strength.
14 Navajos. As bus service is not Gwen laughed. "It does. But it's It all added up to a strange and re-
available, even little first and second- a lot of satisfaction and fun. We get markable culture, and made me realize
graders walk as much as two miles to many laughs out of our work," she that in my incidental visits to the Nav-
school in the morning, and two miles went on. "Especially from some of ajo country I had seen only the bare
home at night. the notes that are delivered to us. surface of that culture.
"They're strictly on their own," "One day a medicine man sent a In our field trip over Monument
said Marvin. "No one forces them to note saying he wanted me to come Valley that day, I had seen how the
attend school. If they don't want to to his camp to 'give shots for the Navajos live, with large families—in-
come, they don't have to—but most of spring fevers.' One girl sent a mes- cluding grandparents, mothers, fathers,
them want to." sage asking me to come to her hogan children and in-laws—all crowded into
The mission school provides a stand- and help her. 'My sister,' she wrote, a single hogan no larger than an aver-
ardized curriculum, plus Bible study. 'is going to have a baby tonight, or age-size bedroom. I had seen smoky
"In order to meet all requirements every night.' Another woman wrote: open cook-fires blazing in the center of
for our world program, we set high 'Please come to our camp. I guess you these hogans, and quarters of darken-
scholastic standards," explained Mar- can sew his head up. Sonny cut it ing mutton hung to dry on cords
vin. "We meet all local standards— yesterday'." stretched across the interior from wall
plus." "Did you sew it up?" I asked. to wall. Seeing these things I had
That the Monument Valley school Gwen nodded. "We sewed it up." wondered how it would seem to live all
is well regarded is evidenced by the Speaking in her soft pleasant voice, one's life with only the loose red sand
fact that the county superintendent of Gwen told of Navajo babies she had for a floor, with no windows to admit
schools recently cited it as the best- helped bring into the world, and of the fresh air and sunlight, and without
equipped one-room school in San Juan aged tribesmen whom she and Marvin a single stick of furniture, or any visi-
County. had buried. She told of the seemingly ble source of water; without any sani-
In addition to its program in Monu- cruel Navajo custom of banishing from tation facilities, or any opportunity to
ment Valley, the hospital staff conducts the hogan the hopelessly ill so the
clinical work two afternoons each week impending death will not render the
at the small town of Mexican Hat, 25 dwelling taboo for future residence.
miles to the north, where one of the She told of eerie spells laid on persons
largest uranium mills in the West is by the medicine men; and of the old
located. shaker women who, while in their

Typical Navajo summer camp in Monument Valley.

JULY, 1958
plant and grow a garden. Gardens the way in which they live. It seems and would be quite unhappy and mis-
don't thrive in a restless land where logical to suppose that some of them erable if they were made to live as we
the sand that is here today may be abhor the way of life that environ- do.
gone with the wind tomorrow. ment and custom have forced upon These are matters I simply can't
Not being a Navajo it is impossible, them. Others probably accept that life know; but of one thing I feel certain.
of course, for me to think as a Navajo passively and resignedly; and I don't From the expressions I saw on Navajo
does; therefore, I have no means of doubt that there are many older Nav- faces in those drab hogans and in the
knowing how these people feel about ajos who prefer their mode of living clinic on this visit, I am confident that
the native Americans of Monument
Valley feel real trust, loyalty and af-
Desert Quiz is published both for those who fection for Gwen and Marvin Walter,
Desert Quiz are already well acquainted with the desert
Southwest and for those who would like to
improve their knowledge of this fascinating region. The questions include
and are thankful to have them as
friends.
It is only logical that they should
geography, history, botany, mineralogy, Indians and the general lore of feel so, for good neighbors are popular
the desert country. Regular readers of Desert find their scores improving with people in every land—and that's
from month to month as the answers to the questions appear sooner or the kind of neighbors the Walters and
later in these pages. Twelve to 15 is a fair score, 16 to 18 is excellent, Masons are.
over 18 is super. The answers are on page 32.
1—Asbestos is—Mined from the ground Fabricated from cot-
ton Grown on bushes Made from coal tar
2—The Mountain men who trapped the western country in the middle
of the last century derived their income mostly from—Fox furs
Mink Beaver Coon
3—Breyfogle is a name often mentioned in the Southwest in connection
with—An unsealed mountain peak Volcanic crater Ghost
town Lost mine Gaston Burridge of Downey, Cali-
4—One of the following plants might be mistaken for Nolina—Cats- fornia, has wide interests in science—
claw Yucca Indigo bush Creosote astronomy, ground water, energy
5—Albuquerque, New Mexico, is on the bank of the — San Juan sources and space flight—which his
River Colorado Rio Grande Pecos writings reflect. Over 20 publications
6—If you traveled west on the Southern Pacific you would cross the carried his stories last year.
Colorado River at — Yuma Needles Parker ^ His "Big Eyes Among Desert Pines"
Blythe appears in this month's Desert. Bur-
7—The Southwestern state having the smallest population per square ridge was born in Tecumseh, Michi-
mile is—Arizona Utah Nevada New Mexico gan, in 1906, and has been a resident
8—Early American Indians ground their meal in an—Arrastre of Southern California since 1927.
Mortar or metate Mescal pit Atlatl * * *
9—The approximate age of prehistoric pueblos is determined by—Tree "Guest Register in Stone" is H. N.
rings in the roof timbers Indian legends Nearby petro- Ferguson's second Desert Magazine
glyphs on the rocks Pottery shards story. His "The Great Diamond Hoax
10—The most conspicuous coloring in the fossil wood found in the Petri- of 1872" appeared in the February '57
fied Forest National Monument is — White Green issue.
Red Orange Assistant General Manager of the
11-—If you were entering Death Valley from Beatty, Nevada, you would Port of Brownsville, Texas, by trade,
go through — El Cajon pass Raton pass Emigrant he spends evenings and weekends
pass Daylight pass writing articles, fiction and fillers. To
12—The mineral-in-solution which forms travertine is — Quartz date several hundred of his pieces have
Calcite Feldspar Manganese appeared in print in a wide range of
13—The late John Wetherill for many years ran an Indian trading post publications. He began his freelance
at—Shiprock Cameron Keams Canyon Kayenta career at the University of Oklahoma
14—Going from Tucson, Arizona, to Guaymas, Mexico, you would cross where "I practically wrote my way
the international border at — Calexico El Paso No- through college," he states.
gales Douglas * * *
15—The Havasupai Indian reservation is in—Utah Arizona For Savola Fenley, author of this
California New Mexico month's "Where We Found Happi-
16—The metal obtained from a galena mine is—Lead Iron ness," the desert is a way of life. "I
Aluminum Zinc spend my time puttering around my
17—Indians living on the White Mountain reservation are—Navajos hilltop home, doing dried floral ar-
Pimas . Papagos Apaches rangements, collecting bits of drift-
18—The river about which this rhyme was written: "And if you quaff wood, studying wildflowers, reading,
its waters once, it's sure to prove your bane. You'll ne'er forsake visiting friends . . ."
the blasted stream, nor tell the truth again," is the—Gila River A large purple glass display is Mrs.
Verde River Hassayampa River Virgin River Fenley's special hobby. When she and
19—The color of chalcedony roses generally is — Deep red her husband were newly arrived on
Orange Creamy white Indigo the desert, they visited the old camp
20—The species of cactus generally regarded as the best source of water sites in the Ridgecrest area and there
for the thirsty traveler is—Cholla Prickly pear Beaver- found many lovely glass pieces, "each
tail Bisnaga with a history and romance all its
own."
10 DESERT MAGAZINE
El Morro. Inscriptions of hundreds of travelers ring the base of this famous New
Mexico landmark.

Guest Register in Stone...


Down through the centuries, In- wheeled carriages to enter the region, at heart, and in the next several years
dians, conquistadores, soldiers and and 7000 animals—the ancestors of a roamed the western country.
emigrants have camped by the vast cattle and sheep empire. The His was the first dated inscription
waterhole at the base of El Morro colonists settled in San Gabriel del on El Morro. Disillusioned, he and
Rock in New Mexico, and many of Yunkue, the first Spanish capital of his men were returning from the Pa-
them have left a permanent record New Mexico. But Onate was a nomad cific Coast where they had learned
of their sojourn here by incising
their autographs on the great stone The catchment basin at the base of El Morro, once an important water
landmark. supply for desert travelers.
By H. N. FERGUSON
Photos courtesy
National Park Service
QUARELY ASTRIDE the leg-
endary trail to the fabled "Seven
Cities of Cibola" rises a massive
mesa-point of sandstone. A hundred
million years ago this strange region
rested under the waters of a primeval
sea. Today, climbing 200 feet above
the valley floor, El Morro—Inscrip-
tion Rock—is a striking landmark in
this sun-washed land.
This "guest book" of solid rock has
been collecting signatures since the
first Spanish explorers tramped this
way in search of treasure. And even
before that, undated inscriptions were
left by Indians who lived in pueblos
atop the cliff. It became a regular
camping spot for the conquistadores
and, later, for American travelers to
the West.
In 1598 Juan de Onate, a wealthy
Spanish grandee equipped with six
complete sets of armor, set out with
130 families, 270 single men, the first

JULY, 1958 11
Some of the autographs left on Inscription Rock by travelers who have passed
this way.

there was no truth to the legend that lure of El Morro through the centur- iper. The latter was used a great deal
the Gulf of California was overflowing ies, however, has not been its emin- by the Indians for firewood, and was
with pearls. Racing against starvation, ence; but a pool of fresh water at its thought to have spiritual and medi-
his party had been forced to eat its base. Here Indians, gold-hunting ad- cinal values.
spare horses. venturers, and United States Cavalry- Scattered along the trail are the
While the gaunt men shed their men have refreshed themselves and ruins of two and three story dwellings,
armor and rested before a fragrant fire proudly signed the living rock. their roofs collapsed and walls caved-
of pinyon boughs at the base of In- The first American Army officer to in. Sand and grass have almost ob-
scription Rock, their exhausted leader visit Inscription Rock was Lt. J. H. literated them.
laboriously etched a message that ig- Simpson in 1846. With him was the Half way up is a beautiful tree-lined
nored disappointment, and immortal- artist R. H. Kern who copied the box canyon, invisible from the valley
ized his triumph: Passed by here the earlier inscriptions. floor. A little farther on is a small
Adelantado Don Juan de Onate from seam of coal that was laid down in
After Simpson's visit, an intermittent what was a swamp 50,000,000 years
the discovery of the Sea of the South, stream of emigrants, traders, Indian
the sixteenth of April, 1605. It was ago.
two years before the founding of agents, soldiers, surveyors and settlers On the mesa atop El Morro is the
Jamestown, and 15 years before the added their names to the rock. Of deserted site of Atsinna. It occupies
Pilgrims were to step ashore at Plym- special interest is the signature of Lt. an area equal to a city block, and is
outh Rock. E. F. Beale. It was he who com- terraced to provide a southern expo-
manded a caravan of camels, imported sure. Visible are the outlines of old
Almost a century later another as a transportation experiment in the reservoirs carved out of solid rock be-
courageous man inscribed a message arid Southwest, in a journey from tween the ruin and a grove of trees.
on the rock which succinctly points up Texas to California in 1857. Beale's Atsinna was occupied during the
the spirit of that remarkable era: Here use of the route past El Morro popu- 12th and 13th Centuries. No one
was the General Don Diego de Vargas, larized that trail, and emigrant trains knows why it was abandoned.
who conquered to our Holy Faith and began to use it. The first such party
to the Royal Crown all the New Mex- reached the area on July 7, 1858, and The view from the top of El Morro
ico at his own expense, year of 1692. camped overnight. On the rock ap- is spectacular and rewarding—a pan-
pears many names carved by its mem- oramic vista of canyons and mesas
On the very top of El Morro lie spread out along this natural land
ruins of Zuni Indian pueblos aban- bers.
route.
doned long before the coming of the Inscription Rock, 53 miles south- Down through the centuries hun-
Spaniards. Broken pottery is strewn east of Gallup, New Mexico, became dreds of travelers from all parts of
about. Largely unexcavated, these a National Monument in 1906. Each the world have left their signatures on
ruins are covered with the growth of year 7000 visitors take the Inscription this huge "guest book" of the desert.
centuries. Here and there a bit of trail under the supervision of a park But today the book is closed; the Park
standing wall speaks of the culture that ranger. Service takes a dim view of anyone
once nourished. Carved on the rock The leisurely walk around the base adding to the list of names. Happily,
itself are hundreds of petroglyphs left of the cliff takes about an hour. Then most visitors respect the historical
by these ancient people. begins the ascent to the top over the writings, and realizing that they came
The majesty of this jutting yellowish easy loop trail, through small groves to the party too late, resist the urge
cliff is not lost at close range. The of ponderosa pine, scrub oak and jun- to add to the register.

12 DESERT MAGAZINE
Near Marl Springs in the Mojave Desert area newly opened for the desert
motorists who like to explore new lands.

Back-Road on the Mojave ...


Thanks to the interest of a progressive highway department in San granite towers run parallel to the road,
Bernardino County, California, a vast new area of desert terrain on the where a few hardy cattle forage among
Mojave desert has been opened for the exploration and enjoyment of the rocky ledges.
those who would seek recreation out beyond the traffic of the paved Proceeding northward beyond the
boulevards. The newly completed highway from Baker to Amboy is not acres of stunted yuccas are the jagged
paved—but it is a well graded hard road that involves no hazard for peaks of the Marble mountains. Num-
those who carry plenty of water and exercise the ordinary precautions erous dim roads lead into these hills,
of desert travel. Here is a glimpse of the scenic variety along this new evidence of early mining activity, and
route. 12 miles from the highway are great
By ELIZABETH WARD scars cut across the desert's face by
Map by Norton Allen a big pipeline from northern New
Mexico, bringing gas to the metropoli-
tan areas of California.
E DROVE OVER the new sand dunes, Joshua tree forests, and To this point, the bladed road had
Baker - Amboy road, which —near Baker—an almost unbelievable been very comfortable, allowing an
through 80 miles of scenic des- cluster of large extinct volcanoes. easy speed of 45 miles an hour—
ert grandeur links two major highways, Maintained in good condition, this fast enough to travel where there is so
one crisp sunny day in mid-January. new gravel road climbed gradually, much to see. But very soon after the
Although this journey can be made after we left the main highway. The pipeline crossing, we encountered the
in one day, it is more fun as a week- mountains on both sides of the road
end camping trip, entering the high first of a series of steep roller-coaster
are silhouetted against the turquoise dips. Although the deep washes are
Mojave by way of Baker on Highway sky like colorful painted backdrops of
91, or near Amboy on Highway 66. a tremendous stage. Three miles from unexpected, the road is entirely nego-
Choosing the latter route, we found the highway, one sees evidence of tiable, but care is necessary in driving
our turnoff five miles east of Amboy. habitation—a mine where the opera- here, especially if pulling a trailer.
Here a new bladed county road leads tors live in modern trailers and sleep Beyond the dips the route winds
north, providing easy access to a fas- outdoors the year around. They are uphill, through strange and interesting
cinating land of vari-colored moun- surrounded by the Bristol range, and rock formations. Cholla cactus grows
tains, inspiring views, ever-changing for several miles the pink, upended thickly here, with gray ephedra shrubs

JULY, 1958 13
TO DEATH VALLEY JCT. TO LAS VEGAS HJ-: and offers a side trip of unusual inter-
est.
The little green oasis of Kelso is
on the Union Pacific. It seemed faint-
ly incongruous to see gleaming rails
flung across this vast empty space, but
our road crossed them here, and pro-
ceeded north by slightly west. How-
ever, we digressed the short distance
into Kelso, where food and refresh-
ments are available, to ascertain the
location of the historic site of an inter-
esting early military outpost, Marl
Springs. Being directed to proceed .6
of a mile north on the pavement, and
then turn slightly left and follow the
telephone line maintenance road 14
miles, we crossed the Baker-Cima cut-
off road halfway up, and found the
ancient Springs with no trouble.
Here, good water has bubbled up to
provide an oasis in the desert since
white men first came this way. It was
a famous watering place on the old
government road, running from Los
Angeles to Ft. Mojave on the Colo-
rado River, and a favorite ambush for
the savage Paiute Indians until the re-
doubt was established to protect cara-
vans crossing the desert.
This marvelous spring is fenced in
to provide water for a homesteader's
cattle, but a portion of the old rock
wall of the fort remains, and the deep
ruts of the old road are plainly visible.
The evidence of many Indian battles
marks this area, and arrowheads and
other relics of those exciting days may
still be found.
The surrounding slopes are covered
with staghorn cactus along with bea-
vertail, strawberry, hedgehog, and
pincushion cacti, while large speci-
mens of bisnaga or barrel cactus stand
out boldly on the hillsides. The loca-
tion is silent and isolated. A lone des-
ert hawk swooped in wide circles, be-
fore alighting on a stunted ironwood
TO TWENTYNINE PALMS
tree. This is a wilderness, an impres-
sive reminder of our pioneer heritage,
and we ate our lunch in the warm sun,
and green greasewood dotting the We followed the bladed road, skirt- thrilled with the historic environment.
landscape. ing around the sand formations 15 Traces of the old abandoned road can
Twenty miles from Highway 66, miles, wishing there was a side road be seen around the low mountains east
the distant serrated mountains to the where we could drive in closer, but of the Springs, winding down the broad
north form a contrast to the softly no entrance to the dunes presented slopes to Cima and Paiute Springs.
undulating Kelso sand dunes, spark- itself, except an unimproved road out
ling white in the foreground. These of Kelso. Perhaps in the future the In the distance, we could see the
are the highest and the most spectac- area will be developed into another spectacular red volcanic rock forma-
ular of all California sand dunes, al- White Sands Monument—but only for tions east of Cima—the eroded and
though not the widest in extent. The the peaceful purposes of a winter play- deeply colored gorges, and picturesque
sands reveal a merging panorama as ground! flat topped mesas, stretching away to
the light and shadows change, most An unexpected stretch of pavement infinity, over which remains a part of
surprising in this rocky land. The met us, four miles from Kelso. This the great lava sheet said to have cov-
desert winds meet here, eddying be- bit of civilization is due to the war- ered the whole desert in ancient times.
tween the mountain passes, and de- time energies of Henry J. Kaiser, who Now there are colorful layers of vol-
posit their burdens of sand in varying developed the old Vulcan Iron mines canic ash, sandwiched between thick
patterns. In late spring, we knew the in nearby mountains, and constructed folds of lighter colored lavas, remind-
desert floor surrounding these dunes a paved road to his property. The ing us of chocolate parfait in giant
would be covered with a carpet of mines are shut down now, but the bowls. The picture is enough to make
desert flowers. paved road remains in excellent shape one's senses reel; there is too great a

14 DESERT MAGAZINE
The Cinder Cones—now under consideration as a new California state park. Once
this area was in violent eruption and today vegetation is just beginning to make
its appearance on the surface of the great lava flow.

sweep of grandeur, too much of color, Kelso to rejoin the county road; the reassure the stranger, but not enough
for the human eye and mind to grasp Baker-Cima cutoff, seven miles below to spoil the thrill of discovery and ex-
in one sitting. the Springs, intersects the county road ploration the visitor is bound to ex-
For the view alone, Marl Springs a few miles west. perience.
is well worth the extra time and Our feeling is that remote desert Following our detour, we picked up
trouble involved in exploration. If roads are a challenge; they reveal much the regular county road toward Baker,
there have been no recent floods or to those who dare. The side roads and drove on through a section of
washouts, the telephone line road — invite rockhounds to explore new ter- primitive high desert, where there is
while rough in places — is perfectly ritory, and only the usual precautions no habitation, and tranquility seems to
safe for ordinary cars. And it is not of desert travel need be observed. be reflected even in the sunlight. The
necessary to return all the way to There is enough travel on this road to silence was so intense that we could

Sandy arroyo through the cinder cone area. Wind and water erosion gradually
are breaking down the hard basaltic rock spilled on this landscape during its
period of volcanic action.

JULY, 1958 15
Approaching Kelso from the south the Kelso dunes are seen glistening white
against a backdrop of volcanic mountains.

feel it, and our eyes unconsciously ity, Dr. Edmund C. Jaeger — stood so that each fine specimen seemed
swept the rocky peaks for the Paiute sentinel beside the lonely road, and more impressive than the last one.
smoke signals that surely belonged yucca elata and Spanish bayonet cov-
there! ered the wide sandy sweep of the val- Broken black rock formations in
ley. In late spring the creamy spires the distance were giving us an idea of
We were climbing gradually, and what to expect, and we were soon re-
soon the nature of the vegetation of the white flowers are inspiring in
changed. A giant Joshua, the unusual their majesty. But the yuccas were warded with the sight of the fantastic
Yucca Brevifolia Jaegeri — so named soon dwarfed by a veritable forest of cinder cones, or extinct volcanoes, that
in honor of the famous desert author- the magnificent Joshuas, well spaced dot this area. Fifteen miles after leav-
ing the Marl Springs cutoff, a fine
black-topped road invited us to enter
the volcanic site. But a word of warn-
ing is in order here: after crossing a
Cash for Unusual Photographs.. bad wash, we found the way blocked
by a forbidding sign of the Atomic En-
terprises of Las Vegas, Nevada, which,
If you are a photographer, undoubtedly there are among the photos we felt, would have been better located
you have taken several which you feel are suitable for reproduction at the fork of the paving, since it
in Desert Magazine. Or perhaps you are planning a vacation trip and necessitated a return to the main road.
have in mind an exceptional desert scene you want to capture on film. We have since been advised that the
These are the photographs we would like you to send us for judging mine is not yet patented, and there-
in our Picture-of-the-Month contests. Winning entries receive cash
awards. fore the road should be accessible to
the public, but it seemed the part of
Entries for the July contest must be sent to the Desert Magazine wisdom to obey the sign's injunction.
office. Palm Desert, California, and postmarked not later than July 18. The black lava flow begins near the
Winning prints will appear in the September issue. Pictures which paving. This sheer malpai wall can-
arrive too late for one contest are held over for the next month. First
prize is $10; second prize $5. For non-winning pictures accepted for not be ascended for five miles, and
publication $3 each will be paid. so the County road twists around an
easy grade until a sign "Char Rock,"
HERE ARE THE RULES points the way to a side road up the
1—Prints must be black and white. 5x7 or larger, on glossy paper. sandy wash below the malpai wall.
2—Each photograph submitted should be fully labeled a s to subject, time and
This is the beginning of the proposed
place. Also technical data: camera, shutter speed, hour of day, etc. Cinder Cones state park.
3—PRINTS WILL BE RETURNED WHEN RETURN POSTAGE IS ENCLOSED. Much work will be necessary before
4—Entries must be in the Desert Magazine office by the 20th of the contest month. this can become a popular desert re-
5—Contests are open to both amateur and professional photographers. Desert
treat, as the present by-road to the
Magazine requires first publication rights only of prize winning pictures. cones is not easily negotiable by the
6—Time and place of photograph are immaterial, except that it must be from the
average modern car. But, as in the
desert Southwest. attainment of many other difficult
7—Judges will be selected from Desert's editorial staff, and awards will be made
goals, the reward far surpasses the ef-
immediately after the close of the contest each month. fort. By unloading some equipment
and a few passengers, we lightened
Address All Entries to Photo Editor the burden enough to permit passage
T>e&ent TfCafOfute PALM DESERT. CALIFORNIA over the high centers, where sharp
boulders can endanger a low-slung
automobile.

DESERT MAGAZINE
f/iaf marks the unimproved trail into the cinder cone area. Low clearance
cars should not attempt this rocky by-road.

Up the sand wash it is essential to separating the various peaks, are an to stop abruptly at the sheer malpai
drive carefully. The road is plainly "other world" atmosphere for picnics wall.
marked, leading up the high malpai or just plain relaxing. The stark gaunt We climbed the basalt slopes, revel-
wall; but once on top, the far spread- extinct volcanoes, quiescent now—but ing in the isolation, stopping often for
ing magma almost conceals the tracks providing much evidence of the former
of previous vehicles. Here the surface violent nature of the desert—offer great especially fine vistas that sweep in all
of the earth is hidden; only a solid scenic vistas, and many trails for hik- directions from this elevation. In the
expanse of black lava can be seen for ing and climbing. Perfect obsidian early twilight, the eerie effect was em-
miles. The visitor is unprepared, even specimens can be found here, and an phasized when we came back to the
by the work of getting on top of the occasional arrowhead reminder of past car, hungry from the outdoor air and
malpai wall, for the sight that reaches visitors to the region. It is safe to exercise.
beyond him. This is a never-never hazard a guess that the region was The desert stars came out in sharp
land of fantasy, of erosion and solid never occupied, even by the usual des- brilliance that dimmed only after the
molten lava, of a black surface with ert animals. moon rose. It cast a luminous glow
jagged escarpments rising sheer from The State Beaches and Parks de- over the ruined face of the scorched
a malpai floor with so little plant life partment has taken under considera- malpai, softened the outlines of the
that it seems to have been lifted," in- tion the plan of creating a desert park, peaks, and illumined the rounded con-
tact, from some strange region from to be called the Cinder Cones Monu- tours of the black cinder cones in
outer space. Nothing grows in the ment. This is the largest group of such curved relief. We built our campfire,
scorched area, except sparse straggling cones in the United States, totaling 27 and cooked our supper in the ethereal
yucca and a few stunted shrubs in in all, and a site of much interest to light, wishing we could stay on the
cracks, where sand has collected and geologists and volcanists. Most of the Mojave a week.
water has seeped. cones are comparatively low and wide, Truly, one day in this world of de-
Surprisingly, the road improved, providing easy climbing. The size and lightful fantasy is not enough—but if
after the first pause for our bearings. shape prove, according to authorities, that is all you have, get an early start
The Rainy Day Mine signs can be that the explosions producing them and don't miss it. There is great at-
found for 4.5 miles, and although other were of short duration but very vio- traction and exceedingly great reward
dim roads branch off toward other lent. The cones were built of cooled in its peaceful isolation and the result-
hopeful mines, staying on the main lava, layer on layer built up during ing freedom from pressures—a real
road is not difficult. By keeping the eruptions. panacea to modern tensions.
most prominent cinder cone always The number and variety of the cin-
on our left, and heading eastward, From the Char Rock entry into the
the main cluster of eleven large cinder der cones are startling proof of large Cinder Cone park area, it is less than
cones was achieved. scale volcanic action in the distant a half hour drive over the smooth
past, but even in the present it is easy county road into Baker, and the inter-
This is the main region of the pro- to imagine the drama of the erupting section with Highway 91. But a
posed park, and a wonderful camping volcanoes and the fiery lava as it rolled greater contrast cannot be imagined,
place for desert enthusiasts who are down the slopes. The black lava flow than between this busy traffic course
not daunted by the first high malpai has descended for miles beyond the and the 80 magnificent miles we had
wall. The crumbled valley floors, stark outline of the extinct volcanoes, just completed.

JULY, 1958 17
This large house trailer has been equipped with all the essential instruments for
scientific study of desert plants and animals in their native habitat.

Roving Laboratory of the Desert


By RANDALL HENDERSON tation of Lloyd Tevis, Jr., Caltech zo-
If you wonder what connec- ologist who is resident scientist in
SUNNY DAY in February I tion there may be between a charge of the Laboratory. Lloyd has
followed a winding sand road painstaking study of the life been my neighbor here in Coachella
into an isolated cove at the base processes of a catsclaw bush Valley for two years, for the home
of California's Santa Rosa Mountains on the desert, and the food sup- base of the traveling laboratory is the
— and came upon a strange camp ply for mankind, you will find Rancho Senora del Lago, located be-
scene. some of the answers in this tween Palm Desert and Palm Springs.
Parked at the end of the road was story. Here is a glimpse of the
a huge house trailer and the heavy work being done by the men of Later that day I had lunch at the
duty truck which evidently had towed science who carry on their trailer site with Dr. Frits Went, pro-
it to this out-of-the-way place. There studies in gypsy fashion on the fessor of plant physiology at Caltech in
was nothing unusual about this, for I Great American Desert. Pasadena, the scientist whom I had
often meet trucks and trailers on the seen at the instrument panel earlier in
desert's by-roads. The detail that the day. The lunch was served on a
caught my interest immediately was card table in the shade of a Palo Verde
a little plastic box about the size of the dials in front of him as he jotted tree by Lillian Overland, laboratory
a small bird cage perched in a tripod notes on sheets of paper which cov- technician who helps Dr. Went ride
which straddled a pygmy cedar bush. ered the table. herd on the array of dials and valves
This was my introduction to the involved in his studies.
Enclosed in the box I could see a
small branch of the shrub, and at- Mobile Desert Laboratory maintained Dr. Went, widely recognized as an
tached to the floor of the box were by the California Institute of Tech- authority in his field, spends much
flexible tubes which led to a portable nology — a gypsy outfit that moves time at the mobile laboratory on the
table on which was mounted a panel from place to place and gathers infor- desert studying the dials and recording
of dials in an instrument box resem- mation which at some future time may data which will give human beings a
bling a portable radio. have a very important bearing on the better understanding of the natural
food supply of a world that has be- laws which govern the universe.
Seated at the table was a man, a
stop watch in one hand and a pencil come over-crowded with human beings. That day, Dr. Went had three of his
in the other, his attention focused on I had gone to this camp at the invi- plastic cages working on pygmy cedar,

18 DESERT MAGAZINE
Left to right—Mrs. Austin McManus, Frits Went and Measuring the carbon dioxide intake and the water
Lloyd Tevis, Jr., on location in the desert. vapor and oxygen output of the ocotillo.

creosote and catsclaw. Later, in For instance, of the six desert shrubs of these tiny insects and study their
March, I visited the Laboratory again mentioned above, he has ascertained work and social habits through their
when it was stationed in a remote can- that pygmy cedar probably is the most complete life cycles, keeping detailed
yon in Joshua Tree National Monu- useful from the standpoint of mankind. records of his findings.
ment. This time the plastic boxes and And yet pygmy cedar is an insignificant And if you wonder what importance
dials were recording the photosynthesis shrub known to few people outside attaches to the study of ant life, I can
and transpiration of ocotillo, jojoba, of the botanical world. It is an ever- only quote the conclusion of a leading
and Canterbury Bells, a species of green two to four feet high which often scientist who has stated that in the
Phacelia. is seen growing apparently without course of evolution the ants, the family
Most people are aware of the fact soil in the cracks and crevices in the Formicidae, have attained a higher de-
that every living plant is a little fac- sidewalls where road-building crews gree of organization than any other
tory, using radiant energy from the have blasted through for a roadbed. form of life on earth except man. They
sun, taking in carbon dioxide and It is conspicuous along the Palms-to- have farmers and nurses and police-
moisture, and converting them to su- Pines highway in Southern California. men and baby-sitters, each function-
gar and other compounds which have In areas of greater rainfall, plants ing in the role to which he is born.
food value for the plant and animal generally take in most of their water It has long been known that one of
world, and giving off water vapor and supply from the soil through their root the main contributions of the ant world
oxygen which help maintain an atmos- systems. But it is a characteristic of to the success of other forms of life
phere conducive to life on this planet. many desert shrubs that they depend is in the pulverization of leaves and
But it is only in recent years that the also on the pores of their leaves for deadwood. They supplement the work
scientists and technicians have per- absorption of moisture:' of sun and water in adding organic
fected instruments which make possi- While Dr. Went carries on his plant matter to the soil. They help fertilize
ble an intensive study of the exact role studies, Lloyd Tevis is devoting his the earth. A single ant colony would
of plants in the ecology of life in gen- research to the desert animal life. His not make an important contribution—
eral. Dr. Went is doing important current study is ants and mites. His but when it is realized that there are
pioneering in this field of study. method is to stake out typical colonies billions and billions of ant colonies of

JULY, 1958 19
Mrs. Austin McManus of Palm Springs whose interest made possible the
equipping of Caltech's field laboratory.

many hundreds of species scattered as permanent as cement, but served


over the face of the globe, all working very well under the circumstances.
industriously in the service of mankind, And so, Lloyd Tevis is studying
it will be recognized that they play no ants, their role in the ecology of the
small part in converting organic ma- desert, and especially their reactions to
terials to food for other forms of life. extremes in temperature and changing
Stationed in tropical Africa during weather conditions. The ants are great
several months of World War II, I seed-gatherers, and in long periods of
learned about an odd by-product of drouth their food supply is affected—
the industry of ants in that area. In the just as it is for human beings.
African Gold Coast, now the dominion Caltech's Mobile Desert Labora-
of Ghana, the ants, as in many other tory is carrying on much the same type
tropical lands, build hills six and eight of research as was the Carnegie In-
feet high. To keep these pinnacle-like stitute's Desert Laboratory at Tucson.
structures intact, they glue the grains However, the Tucson laboratory was construction of a laboratory which
of sand together with a secretion which discontinued after one of its main would be mobile—one which could
they manufacture for that purpose. buildings was burned in 1939. The follow the rains from place to place,
The British had discovered that the Earhart Laboratory at Caltech also and move to the different life zones.
abandoned ant hills could be removed has been doing important research in His idea was realized in the summer
and pulverized, and then mixed with botany, but much of this kind of work of 1956 when Mrs. Austin McManus,
water and used as surfacing material can be done to better advantage in the whose father pioneered in Palm Springs
for tennis courts and patios. One of field—in the natural habitat of the 70 years ago, and who is an active
my assignments was to build two ten- plants and animals. civic leader in that community, pro-
nis courts with this material. It is not
Dr. Went has long advocated the vided the funds for the truck and
These instrument panels are recording the photosynthesis and transpiration of
pygmy cedar, a branch of which is enclosed within the plastic box.

DESERT MAGAZINE
house-trailer, and also for some of the ratus — microscopes, balances, tubes, The Mobile Laboratory operates not
needed scientific instruments. valves, tables and cupboards. Since only for the benefit of the faculty at
On the truck is mounted a 4000- the scientists may be out in remote Caltech, but its facilities and findings
watt generator and an air-compressor, areas for extended periods, the facili- are available for scientific men and
the power plant for the laboratory. ties also include kitchen stove, refrig- women all over the world. On one
It carries 500 gallons of water under erator, hot water heater and shower—
pressure and 70 gallons of gasoline. a self-contained unit in every detail occasion when I visited the Laboratory
The trailer has both refrigeration and except sleeping quarters. Members of two Australian scientists were present
evaporative air conditioning equipment. the staff spread their bedrolls on the over the weekend. At another time
The big trailer is a biological labo- ground outside, which is seldom a Dr. Jane Philpott, professor of botany
ratory with a maize of scientific appa- hardship in the desert. at Duke University, on sabbatical

Roots in the Water-Fronds in the Sunshine


California's native palm, the Washingtonia filijera, The two pictures were taken seven years later. The
more than any other tree in the arid world, depends on palm on the left had been watered by irrigation once a
water for its life and growth. The ironwood, the palo week during the summer months and less frequently
verde or the smoke tree may survive for years on the during the winter. It was four feet high when the picture
scant rainfall of the desert country—but the palm will was taken—after seven years.
wither and die in a few months if there is no moisture The palm on the right, planted at the same time and
at its roots. Its shallow root system requires either a irrigated from April through October by a constant stream
high underground water table, or generous irrigation. of warm water—the discharge from the Desert Magazine's
This characteristic of the native palm, and the manner air-cooling plant—grew to a height of 10 feet in seven
in which it responds to a generous water supply, is well years. It grew over a foot a year, while its twin, with
illustrated by the two pictures above. much less water, gained less than three inches a year.
These two palms are the same age. Both are native Both are healthy trees, planted in the same kind of soil,
volunteers from Paul Wilhelm's oasis at Thousand Palms, and with the same amount of sunshine. The difference is
California. At the age of three years they were trans- due entirely to the water they received—nothing else.
planted to the Desert Magazine's garden in 1950—each If you want your palms to grow faster, simply give
of them two and one-half feet high at the time. them more water.

JULY, 1958
leave for a year with a A.A.U.W. making new acquaintances among the Austin McManus, Americans owe a
Fellowship, was carrying on anatomical flora of the desert world. great debt of gratitude for the services
studies. When I entered the labora- Frits Went and Lloyd Tevis are they are rendering. I should mention
tory she was looking through a micro- working in the realm of pure science. also the cooperation of Ruth Rooke,
scope at the cross-section of an oco- It is the research of such men and who raises desert holly as a commercial
tillo leaf. It resembled a tiny thread, their associates which back through enterprise on her Coachella Valley
barely visible to the naked eye, but the years has provided the basic data ranch. When the scientists were seek-
when I looked through the lens of with which technicians in the field of ing remote campsites where they could
the microscope what I saw appeared to applied science have created the im- carry on their studies uninterrupted by
be clouds of green chlorophyll sus- plements and formulas that have given curious visitors, she arranged for her
pended in a river of clear fluid. It is ranch equipment to build and main-
to Americans the highest living stan- tain a road to one of their hideouts.
chlorophyll which directs food manu- dards on earth. At a time when Americans are be-
facture in the plant and gives the They and their kind are studious coming cognizant of the need for more
leaves their coloring. men, patient, painstaking scholars who intensive school curriculums in the
Present also on this weekend were bit by bit are revealing and interpret- realm of science, the work being done
two scientists with their families from ing the natural laws of the planet, and by such men as Frits Went and Lloyd
Sweden. They had brought camp gear of the universe beyond. Tevis is opening new worlds for the
and were using every daylight hour to To these men, and to women with instruction of youth—and adults too,
tramp over the desert hills and arroyos, the vision and understanding of Mrs. for that matter.

the utter disregard the public seems regular roads to pick the fruit. Split

LETTERS
Status of the Fish Traps . . .
to have for private property. I am
sympathetic with those who deplore
the constant withdrawal of once free
land to private use; perhaps when
there are more stringent laws en-
open with a knife, the magenta colored
pulp is revealed. This is eaten along
with the seeds in the fruit's center . . .
Cardon fruit is sweet and delicious . . ."
But in the December, 1956, Desert,
South San Gabriel, California forced against hunters, we can all in the article "The Cardon, Largest
Desert: relax our vigilance."—R.H. Cacti in the World" there appears:
Recently my husband and I made • • • "The Indians who once inhabited the
a trip to the Coachella Valley to again Taylor's Flag Outdated? . . . area ground the fruit pulp and seeds
visit the Fish Traps, the mysterious into a flour from which they made a
Indian pits along the ancient shore Desert" ^ o s Gatos, California kind of tamale."
line on the Santa Rosa Mountains' The flag flying above the old town Which statement is correct? There
foothills. of Taylor, Nevada, (Desert, May '58) seems to be a contradiction. I'm not
We were distressed to find that the shows five rows of seven stars each— being picayune, but would like to
signs had been moved back toward 35 stars. know if the fruit is "sweet and delici-
the public highway, and that the dirt If Taylor's old-timer is correct in ous
dating the photograph 1881, could it " J. D. STEPHENS
road which leads to the base of the
Fish Traps had been partly destroyed. be that the flag shown was outdated Dear Mr. Stephens — Dr. Edmund
This road has been used by the 17 years? The flag had 35 stars in Jaeger, in writing the cardon story
public for over 100 years. Can the 1864 when Nevada—the 36th state— for our December '56 issue, was
people farming the land below the was admitted to the Union. referring to the use made of cardon
Fish Traps close it off? GLENN HOLMES fruit by the Jesuit padres and the
• • • Indians of that period—over 150
WILMA SPANGLER This Elephant Is a Mosquito . . . years ago. The "Dirt Road Holiday"
Dear Mrs. Spangler—The property Desert: L o s An
geles story contained the observations of
in question, including the Fish Josef Muench's May '58 cover pho- Norte Americanos as of today. I
Traps, is owned by Mrs. Lloyd tograph is entitled "Mosquito Rock in have no doubt both observations are
Rooke, a very public spirited person the Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada." correct—but they come from differ-
and one who I am sure fully appre- I have always been led to believe that ing races of people and from widely
ciates the archeological value of the this fantastic formation is the "Ele- separated periods. Food tastes and
Fish Traps. We sent your letter to phant Rock." habits change through the years.
her, and here are excerpts from her Your question as to whether cardon
ARTHUR C. DAVIS fruit is "sweet and delicious" is not
reply: "We have not moved signs
at the Fish Traps—we have added Dear Mr. Davis — Mr. Muench so easy to answer. I can only sug-
more signs. Any damage or change writes that the rock he photographed gest that some folks like tomatoes,
to the signs has been done by hunt- is three miles distant from the for- but to my palate they are bitter and
ers. The road of which Mrs. Spang- mation designated by signs as "Ele- sour. The cardon fruit is somewhat
ler speaks was destroyed by a flood phant Rock." The name "Mosquito similar to the saguaro fruit in Ari-
down the wash, and we are restor- Rock" for the formation we repro- zona. The Indians who have been
ing it. However, we intend only to duced on our cover, was told to him eating it all their lives think it is
keep the Fish Traps available to the years ago by a friend. There has delicious, but I have found only a
public. The access to our farm from never been a sign, to his knowledge, few white people who share that
the Fish Traps road will be chained. at the Mosquito Rock.—R.H. liking for them. Too many seeds
If it were only desert lovers who • • • for one thing. If you will pick a
used the road, I am sure we would The Taste of Cardon Fruit . . .
ripe tuna, or "cactus apple" from
not mind. However, we cannot be one of the prickly pear cacti which
Desert. Fresno, California grow in your area, you will get a
responsible for people swimming in In the April, 1958, Desert, in the
our reservoir, driving over our row fairly good idea of what they are
crops, etc., and I am distressed by article "Dirt Road Holiday," there ap- like.—R.H.
pears: "Evidently, the natives make

22 DESERT MAGAZINE
-

k : •

HISTORIC PANORAMAS XVII

Fort Davis
By JOSEF and JOYCE MUENCH
Tucked into a rocky amphitheatre
in Jeff Davis County of West Texas,
are the still impressive ruins of Fort
Davis. The adobe and brick build-
ings, vainly attempting to hold their
own against time, tell a story of the
once-active post.
Established in 1854 and aban-
doned in 1891, the garrisons in the
Davis Mountains all have answered
the last roll call.
No great battles or history-mak-
ing conquests were recorded here,
but every stone and weathered
adobe brick seems determined to
stand as long as it can, awaiting the
call-to-arms which will never come.

JULY, 1958
23
ON DESERT TRAILS
WITH A NATURALIST - LI

River of the
Bitter Waters •
The long J-shaped Amargosa River is no ordin-
ary river—even compared to other desert streams.
It drains one of the earth's most arid basins—and
empties its scant heavily mineralized water onto
the great salt flats on Death Valley's floor, lowest
region in the Western Hemisphere.
By EDMUND C. JAEGER, D.Sc.
Curator of Plants
Riverside Municipal Museum
Map by Norton Allen
WITH THE'Mojave, the Amargosa (Ah-
mahr-go-sah) River is one of the strangest streams
in the Southwest. Seen from high in the air, the
course of its bed looks like a giant letter J, with the
hook of the letter pointing toward the south. Like the
perverse Mojave {Desert, June, '57), it is an erratic up-
side-down river flowing much of its way beneath its bed
—the second longest underground river in the world.
Instead of flowing into another stream or the sea, the
Amargosa empties into a salt-encrusted dry lake bed—
the below-sea-level salt flats on the Death Valley floor
near the lowest point in the Western Hemisphere.
This below-sea-level ending is a distinction shared
with few rivers on earth, among them the Jordan in Asia
Minor, which empties into the Dead Sea 1292 feet below
the level of the Mediterranean; and the Volga, Ural Emba
and Kuma which end their courses in the salty Caspian
Sea, 83 feet below the level of the Black Sea.
The Amargosa is a river only in the sense that it is
the main drainage channel for one of the largest inter-
mountain basins in the West. Like the Mojave, it is an
intermittent stream with little or no water flowing over most
of its bed except in unusually wet years or after very
heavy summer cloudbursts.
The drainage area of this river begins in the high,
much dissected and picturesque Paiute Mesa of western
Nevada, 30 miles north of Beatty. From this area several
large and usually dry channels merge near the old mining
towns of Rhyolite and Beatty to form the river proper.
Here waters appear from springs in the hills and moun-
tain country to flow through a broad treeless brush-cov-
ered valley five to eight miles broad and 50 miles long,
lying parallel and east of the California-Nevada state line.
This region usually is called the Amargosa Desert.
For some distance south from the small oasis of
Beatty with its attractive cottonwood trees, the river chan-
nel is for the most part marked by only a shallow, rather
broad and somewhat sandy wash. It proceeds west of the
beautiful high sand hills known as the Big Dune, then
southward through the salt and alkali plains of Ash
Meadows where in ancient times its waters were im-
pounded to form a broad but shallow lake. Here on the
flats of Ash Meadows are a number of springs around
which grow bunch and salt grass, sunflowers and a few
leather-leaved ash trees (Fraxinus coriacea) from which To BAKER

24 DESERT MAGAZINE
The Amargosa River, foreground, northwest of Saratoga Springs. Spence air photo.

the Meadows received its name—not ern end. Finally, it cut a gorge so rusting and stained with white alkali
from the ashy appearance of the salt deep in this spillway that its waters dust—for a long time stood in the sun
and alkali encrusted soil as is often drained away, leaving only the long- at Tecopa, a sad picture of neglect. I
assumed. From specimens taken here, accumulated clay sediments. This clay am told it finally was sold for scrap.
this ash tree was first described by was eroded away by wind and rain Nostalgic memories go back to when
Sereno Watson, author of the two- to form the fantastic fortresses and I first saw it in 1928. My companions
volume Botany of California, pub- castellated buttes seen along the road and I had come down a long rough
lished in 1876. as it crosses the old lake bed just west road from the Kingston Mountains
Five miles south of Death Valley of the village of Tecopa. during a howling April wind storm.
Junction, the Amargosa's channel It was late evening and we came across
The Tecopa Lake region was familiar the old engine as we hunted for a
passes to the west of sublimely beau- to many early travelers. Captain John camp site. An eerie sound fell upon
tiful Eagle Mountain, an isolated peak C. Fremont passed this way in the our ears as the wind shrieked and
lying in the center of the broad valley spring of 1844, stopping at the nearby whistled through the pipes, wheels and
floor. This landmark is noticed by Archilette, a place of lively springs glassless windows of the cab. Extra
every traveler passing north or south which he afterwards called Agua de strong gusts frequently tipped the
on the road between Baker and Death Hernandez in honor of a lone Mexi- bell and made the clapper strike against
Valley. can he found there, the only survivor its sides.
Just south of Eagle Mountain the of a party attacked by Indians.
stream bed of the Amargosa is so near This cheerful spot of green willows An old chicken shed was the only
the road I was able to see and hear located a few miles north of well- place offering a semblance of shelter,
the water as I traveled this way in known Tecopa Hot Springs, later was and there we bedded down. All
April. Nearby I also saw the old road- called Resting Springs by a party of through the cold noisy night, the sturdy
bed of the torn-up Tonopah and Tide- Mormons who camped here in May, engine's bell lamentingly clanged away,
water Railroad which runs beside the 1851, on their way to San Bernardino. and no one got much sleep.
river in many places. It still retains that pleasing name. Just south of Tecopa is the grand
Near the village of Shoshone, set so Tecopa Gorge. At its broad entrance
Tecopa came into being when the are many acres of near-swampland
charmingly amidst the greenery of Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad,
mesquite, tamarisk and screw bean built by the borax interests, established covered with the cheerful green of low
trees, the numerous colorful terraces a station here. A branch line, which mesquite and screw bean trees, cattails,
and smooth rounded or highly eroded brought ore and minerals from the rushes and other water-loving plants.
clay beds give evidence that this is Gunsight and Noonday mines to the Beyond, steep hills of clay and con-
an ancient lake bed of considerable east, joined the T&T at Tecopa. glomerate close in to form a narrow
size. The Pleistocene lake reached as scenic gap through which the river
far south as Tecopa, was as much as The name Tecopa was given in channel passes. The Tonopah and
400 feet deep, and covered an area of honor of old Chief Tecopa, a Paiute Tidewater built its roadbed through
at least 100 square miles. For many Indian long resident in the area. He this pass.
years Lake Tecopa discharged through died about 1905. Five miles down the gorge the un-
a low lip between the hills at its south- One of the old engines—abandoned, usually beautiful cliff-bordered canyon
JULY, 1958 25
Entrance to Tecopa Gorge. Photo by the author.

of Willow Creek opens up. At Willow clean up the clutter of old machinery, Water comes from a number of local
Creek's upper end once stood the Te- long neglected buildings and broken springs, some to the northeastward
copa Smelter. fences on the property. They plan to with sufficient flow to irrigate many
At the canyon's lower end, where restore the fields and trees to their acres.
a rather large level area is set like an former beauty. The ranch house is An unusual number of birds are
amphitheater among beautiful steep set in a lovely enclavement of green found at isolated China Ranch. Some
hills, is the China Ranch. Here since amidst magnificently colorful and stop to nest, but most only stay for
the early borax days Chinamen grew eroded Tertiary Age rocks. The large a short rest from their migratory jour-
vegetables to supply the nearby mines. cottonwood trees are worth going many neys. All day long but especially in
The ranch has changed hands many miles to see. Protected from winds, the early hours of dawn, there is a
times, and the present amiable and they have grown unusually big, and pleasing variety of bird song. In April
ambitious owners are doing much to have taken on most graceful forms. it was my privilege to see the brilliant
flashes of red of the male vermilion
flycatcher and of his plainer-colored
mate. These birds appear year after
year, and often nest on the ranch.

Hard Rock Shorty One of my great ambitions is to


hike down the Amargosa's bed as it
descends, at first rather steeply and
then more gently, through its gorge.
of Death Valley I will be able to leisurely observe the
many wonders of its natural history—
plants, animals and geological features.
The loungers on the porch of down in that dry sand. He wuz It is in one of the embranchments of
the Inferno store watched the tow clear in to his chin, hollerin' like this gorge that paleobotanists recently
car pass in a cloud of dust. bloody-murder. I throwed 'im a unearthed fossil palm remains.
"Huh!" exclaimed Hard Rock piece of pipe to breath through Up one of the branches of Willow
Shorty. "Bet somebody's stuck till I could git help. But it wuzn't Creek talcum is found, and along the
on that road up to Eight Ball necessary. One o' them whirlin' road leading down the scenic steep-
Crick. Lots o' quicksand up that dust devils came along jest then walled wash to China Ranch gypsum
way. — a big walloper it was — and deposits in the consolidated sediments
"Yu can't always tell about sucked him right outta that hole. have from time to time enticed miners
that quicksand," Shorty went on, "Ol' Pisgah Bill found a trace to dig into the embankments.
"Some folks think wet sand is the o' gold in that sand wunst. He Once beyond Tecopa Gorge, the
only kind that's quick. But that figgered the deeper he went the small stream, laden with salts and al-
dry sand up Eight Ball way is jest more gold there would be on ac- kalis, turns westward over a sloping
as bad. When the car drops count o' gold bein' heavier than alluvial fan and past the southern toe
down to the runnin' board that's sand. So he got him a pair o' of the Black Mountains and Saratoga
quicksand, wet or dry. snow shoes and set up a dry Spring. Then it swings north and
"Navigatin' that Eight Ball washer out there in the middle o' makes its way to the great salt flats,
crick road is jest like boatin' on one of them shoals o' quicksand. the last remnant of historic Lake
the ol' Missouri River—yu gotta But next mornin' the dry washer Manly, in the lowest part of Death
know your channels t' git through was nowhere to be seen. After Valley. There its waters are evapo-
it. losin' three dry washers an' a rated by the sun.
"Wunst I seen a feller sinkin' burro, Bill done gave it up." Last November I saw from Dante's
View the river's many dividing end-

26 DESERT MAGAZINE
Amargosa stream near the Baker to Death Valley Road. The salt-laden river flows
for miles through sere barren desert. Photo by the author.

streamlets spreading out on the valley evidence that its overflow discharged cinating pastime. It is an especially
floor like silver strands reflecting the through Ash Meadows into the Amar- good hobby for those who own Jeeps.
light of the setting sun—a beautiful gosa River. It takes little imagination Each desert stream has carved its path
and unusual sight indeed. to envision the Amargosa as a much through charming country, and all
larger stream, with lakes along its have individual peculiarities. Many of
The Spanish word Amargosa means course and tributaries augmenting its
bitter waters. The river is sometimes these streams played important roles
flow. in the lives of aboriginal inhabitants
described as a river of salt flowing
through a desert. Where the little I have found the exploration and as well as the early explorers, trappers
stream flows under the Baker-Death study of arid region rivers a most fas- and miners.
Valley Road, the rocks on its bed are
so salt and alkali encrusted that they
are cemented together into a solid SOUTHWEST WATER PICTURE in Wyoming; Yampa and White rivers,
mass, and can be extricated only with BRIGHT AS SUMMER ARRIVES 120 percent of average; Green River
considerable difficulty. Rainfall over the Desert Southwest's at Green River, Utah, 92 percent; San
three main river basins varied consid- Juan Basin, average or above average.
It is considered quite possible that The expected runoff for the major
until fairly recent geological times, the erably in April: the Colorado received
much below normal, Great Basin near streams of the Salt Lake Basin is 125
flow of Amargosa River was not dis- percent of the 1938-52 average, except
connected as it is today. Furthermore, normal, and Rio Grande much above
normal amounts. for the Bear River where near average
it may have been a tributary of the is forecast.
Colorado River, a theory supported If precipitation during the summer Streamflow of the Humboldt River
by fish evidence. Some of the small months is near normal, the water-year is expected to be 90 percent of aver-
minnow-sized fish now found in creeks (October, 1957, through September, age. Above average runoff is in pros-
and isolated pools in the Amargosa 1958) flow of the Colorado River pect for the Truckee, Carson, Walker
drainage system show relationship to above Glenwood Springs, Colorado, is and Owens rivers. Current outlook
Colorado River fish. Dr. Robert L. forecast to be near 85 percent of the for the Mojave River is for streamflow
Miller reports three subspecies of cy- 1938-52 average. Near average flow in excess of 150 percent of the 1938-
prinodont fishes and a local form of is expected for the Blue River and 52 average.
dace (Rhinichthys) inhabit pools and the Roaring Fork; Taylor River, 115
streamlets of Tecopa Basin. No fossil percent of average; Uncompahgre Average, or above average, runoff
fish have yet been found to definitely River, 130 percent; Dolores Basin, is forecast for all streams of the Rio
fix the age of the Lake Tecopa clay 115-125 percent. Flow of the Colo- Grande Basin with the exception of
beds. rado River near Cisco, Utah, is fore- Alamosa Creek and the Coneios River
cast to be 98 percent of average. in Colorado, where near 90 percent
East of Tecopa, between the Nopah of average is expected. Runoff of the
and Charleston Mountains, lies sprawl- Near 90 percent of the 1938-52 Rio Grande at Otowi Bridge, New
ing Pahrump Valley. It too once con- average runoff is forecast for the ex- Mexico, is forecast to be 105 percent
tained a fresh water lake, and there is treme headwaters of the Green River of the 15-year average.

JULY, 1958 27
Big Eyes Among Desert Pines
Three important observatories
are probing the mysteries of outer
space in dry clear northern Ari-
zona, one of the world's most im-
portant astronomical centers. Sci-
ence long ago discovered what
anyone who has camped here on
a calm moonless night knows—
the sky is filled with billions of
stars, each seemingly so close one
can reach up and touch them.

By GASTON BURRIDGE

NORTHERN ARIZONA'S high,


dry and sparsely populated Co-
conino Plateau has been known
as a superior place to set astronomical
telescopes since the early 1890s. Re-
cently I talked to a retired astronomer
who played an important part in se-
lecting the Southern California site for
the huge 200-inch Hale telescope, the
biggest reflector in the world. He told
me Palomar Mountain was chosen
purely on economic grounds, not be-
cause that mountain's "seeing" quali-
ties were superior to several northern
Arizona sites which were extensively
tested. There is one mountain top near
Prescott which is exceptionally excel-
lent.
The tremendous population growth
of Southern California has rendered
Mt. Palomar and Mt. Wilson consid-
erably less valuable as observatory
sites. It could come to pass that the
economic considerations used in the
choice of Palomar might prove a poor
anchor in the vast storm of population
growth.
A hub of astronomical activity has
been generating around Flagstaff since
1894 when Percival Lowell established
the Lowell Observatory here. He
made this region famous with his many Dome of the 42-inch reflecting telescope at Lowell Observatory. Photo
books, the material for which he gath- by the author.
ered on Mars Hill above Flagstaff.
Impetus as an astronomical center After a nation-wide search, the Navy seen from the observatory's front door.
was added to this area when the U.S. chose a site five miles west of Flag- Dr. Hoag explained that during the
Navy built its Flagstaff Station, and staff just south of Highway 66. summer, the observatory's night tem-
the Air Force established its Atmos- Dr. Arthur A. Hoag is in charge of perature is 10 to 15 degrees cooler
pheric Research Observatory. the Flagstaff Station. He is a young than Flagstaff's, while the winter day-
The skies over Washington, D. C, man, tall and smiling, and proud of time temperature is 10 to 15 degrees
like those over Los Angeles, have be- his station, which, like all other Navy warmer. This favorable condition is
come polluted with man-made impuri- installations, is spotless. This observa- caused by the air drainage into Flag-
ties, and "light-filled" from added arti- tory also has the excellent services of staff from the high San Francisco Peaks
ficial illumination. The U. S. Naval Dr. Elizabeth Roemer, expert on above it.
Observatory in the capital found the comets and astroids. Joseph P. Egan, The Flagstaff Station is an astro-
40-inch Ritchey - Chretien reflecting a fine instrument maker, completes the nomical observatory without a dome.
telescope — its largest light-gathering staff. Here, the entire roof of the room hold-
instrument — becoming less and less The observatory is situated at 7600 ing the telescope rolls away. The roof
effective. Thus, moving it to a location feet elevation, 600 feet higher than the is on wheels set on tracks, and is loco-
with less smoke and light was desirable. city of Flagstaff which can plainly be moted by an electric motor. With the

28 DESERT MAGAZINE
The newest observatory to add a big Although the function of A.R.O. is
eye to the high pines of the Flagstaff not to study heavenly bodies, clear dry
area is the Atmospheric Research Ob- quiet air is essential to its success. This
servatory on the campus of Arizona explains why the observatory was es-
State College. This observatory is tablished here.
supported in part by the Cambridge The A.R.O. explores present and
Research Center of the Air Research seasonal conditions in the earth's at-
and Development Command, and op- mosphere, particularly in the strato-
erates under an Air Force contract. sphere (36,000 feet) and the trop-
Dr. Arthur Adel is director. osphere, all that portion of the
The A.R.O. is not as astronomical atmosphere lying below the strato-
as the other observatories on this pla- sphere.
teau, for study here concentrates on The instrument used here is a very
the effect of the sun and of cosmic special kind of telescope, technically
rays on our atmosphere. I could not known as an "Infrared, 24-inch with
learn what research currently is being a primary focal ratio of f. 4.5." It is
furthered here, because Dr. Adel's equipped with monochromators and
work is classified. He is a specialist spectrometers, infrared sensitive detect-
in the study of infrared radiation, and ors.
began this work at the University of Certain radiation wave lengths in
Michigan in 1931. Many of his find- sunlight and perhaps of cosmic rays
ings are of import to our missile and charge certain constituents of our at-
Dr. Earl Slipher, Lowell director astronautic flight development pro- mosphere. This charged matter, either
and world authority on Mars. Photo grams. immediately or in due course, emits
by J. T. Adendorff.
Air Force's Atmospheric Research Observatory. Arizona State College photo.
roof completely removed to the north,
the telescope is open to the entire sky.
The northern Arizona plateau often
is windy, and wind blowing against a
telescope will jar it, blurring an image
for visual or photographic observation.
That cannot be tolerated. Hence, the
walls of the observatory room are
double, the inner ones capable of being
lifted by hydraulic means. Once in
position, they effectively block the
wind.
The Station maintains a complete
machine shop on its premises, contain-
ing many late design precision machine
tools. Here also is a well equipped
darkroom for developing, printing and
enlarging photographic plates.
While the permanent staff of the
observatory resides in Flagstaff, the
Station has a kitchenette and comfort-
able sleeping quarters for visiting
astronomers who frequently come to
study here. Completing the facility
are two offices, a large instrument
room where telescope appendages are
stored, an ample garage, and general
storage space.
All buildings are on the same floor
level which facilitates movement of
equipment—some of it very heavy—to
and from the telescope.
The 40-inch mirror has to be realu-
minized occasionally, though not as
often as in Washington because of
Flagstaff's dryer climate. To carry out
this operation, the floor immediately
surrounding the telescope lifts and
sinks by hydraulic mechanism, thus
eliminating the need for an overhead
crane to move heavy parts of the
instrument.
JULY, 1958 29
Comet Arend-Roland, 1956. Official U. S. Navy photograph taken at the Naval
Observatory's Flagstaff Station.

infrared radiation. It is these radia- The observatory on the Coconino telescope was erected in 1909. Second
tions which are studied at A.R.O. by Plateau having the most, the largest in size at Lowell is a 24-inch Alven
Dr. Adel. Infrared wave lengths are and the oldest eyes, and surrounded Clark and Sons refractor, which has
measured in microns—0.000039 inch by the greatest number of pines, is been in service since 1894. A third
—and even in tenths of microns. Lowell Observatory. Founded 64 years telescope, a 13-inch refractor, was
The science of infrared radiation is ago, it is the oldest astronomical ob- donated by Dr. A. Lawrence Lowell,
relatively new, and Dr. Adel is one of servatory in the Southwest. The site long-time president of Harvard Uni-
the comparatively few experts in this covers 700 acres, and contains several versity and brother of the observatory's
field. Among his most noteworthy ac- permanently-mounted telescopes. founder. This instrument was put in
complishments was the discovery of The largest big eye on the plateau commission in 1929, and is the tele-
deuterium hydroxide in our atmos- at present is located here—the 42-inch scope with which Dr. Clyde Tombaugh
phere. Alven Clark and Sons reflector. This photographically discovered Pluto, the

40-inch telescope at the Naval Observatory's Flagstaff 24-inch infrared telescope at the Atmospheric Research
Station. Inner walls of the building are in raised posi- Observatory on the Arizona State College campus.
tion to protect the instrument from the wind. Official Instrument studies effect of sun's rays on atmosphere.
U. S. Navy photo. Arizona State College photo.

30 DESERT MAGAZINE
ninth planet of our Solar System, in
1930. Tombaugh's success was the
result of prediction and research orig-
inated in 1905 by Dr. Lowell.
Here and There on the Desert...
The observatory possesses other tel- ARIZONA Medicine Men Losing Influence . . .
escopes and much astronomical equip- Parker Indian Lease Canceled . . . WASHINGTON, D.C.—Paul Jones,
ment. It has a dome, but it is not a PARKER — The government can- chairman of the Navajo Tribal Coun-
conventional type. Generally, a dome celed the development lease on 67,- cil, believes Indian medicine men are
is placed atop a cylindrical building, 000 acres of Indian land near Parker fast going out of business, losing out
but at Lowell, the 42-inch reflector with the Colorado River Enterprises, to the white man's medicine. Jones
rests in a walled pit, and the dome is Inc., headed by Stanford W. Barton. gave this testimony to a senate sub-
at ground level. Under the original agreement, the firm committee in support of appropriations
for Indian health. "A great majority
Two other Lowell telescopes are was required to post a $5,000,000 of my people are convinced that the
covered with revolving truncated cones performance bond, which it failed to
public health service can more effec-
containing slits through which the do. The 25-year-lease was awarded tively cure their ills than the native
telescopes can view the heavens. Still last August 13 amid much publicity
medicine man," Jones said.—Phoenix
another telescope, a 15-inch one, regarding the many benefits the Indi- Gazette
stands beneath a removable roof sim- ans would accrue from the transaction.
• • •
ilar to the one at the Navy observatory. Immediately following the latest gov- Land Trade for Dam Site . . .
ernment move, new proposals for de-
Lowell is a mile west and 350 feet velopment of the 110,000 acres of the PAGE—Legislation has been intro-
higher than Flagstaff, on a pine-cov- Colorado River Indian Reservation duced in congress which will permit
ered mesa named Mars Hill by the were being pushed. Progress on a plan the Navajos to obtain 53,000 acres of
observatory founder. to turn the reservation over to the land in Utah's San Juan County in
exchange for their lands which will be
Dr. Lowell was director from 1894 Indians to develop on their own initia- flooded by the Glen Canyon Dam. The
until his death in 1916. He was suc- tive, free of Indian Bureau control,
bill is the culmination of more than
ceeded by Dr. Vesto M. Slipher who also was reported. two years of negotiations. Under the
retired from the directorship in 1954. • • • terms of the agreement, the Indians
While Dr. Slipher has no astronomical Javelina Decline Causes Told . . . will retain mineral rights at Page and
research projects at the observatory at PAYSON—Ralph A. Fisher Sr. of the Federal government will keep min-
present, he still resides on the grounds. this city takes exception to recent eral rights in San Juan County.
One of the most significant discoveries • • •
made at Lowell—the "red shift of the statements by game management spe- Glen Dam Bridge Started . . .
outer galaxies" which is related to the cialists that drouth conditions are the
Expanding Universe theory—was the chief cause of sharp declines in jave- on PAGE — Construction is underway
the Glen Canyon damsite bridge
work of Dr. Slipher. lina population. Fisher lists eight "ad-
verse conditions" which he believes which, upon completion, will be the
Dr. Albert G. Wilson was director are responsible for the wild pig's de- nation's highest and second longest
of Lowell from 1954 to 1956, and Dr. cline: 1. increased hunting pressure steel arch span. The bridge will link
Earl Carl Slipher, Dr. Vesto Slipher's brought on by expansion of population; a $10,000,000 highway system in
brother, is the observatory's present 2. practice of home, road, railroad,
director. etc., construction crews in slaughtering KENT FROST JEEP TRIPS
Into the Famous Utah Needles Area
Dr. Earl Slipher, who has been with javelinas; 3. use of poison on open Junction of the Green and Colorado rivers;
Indian and Salt creeks; Davis, Lavender
the institution as an astronomer since range; 4. drouth—not a major cause, Monument, Red, Dark and White canyons:
Dead Horse and Grand View points; Hoven-
1906, probably is the world's leading for the javelina can migrate to more weep and Bridges national monuments.
authority on Mars. favorable areas; 5. natural causes of 3-day or longer trips for 2-6 person parties
—$25 daily per person. Includes sleeping
death, and the fact that sows only bags, transportation, guide service, meals.
The observatory's main building bear two pigs a year, and sometimes Write KENT FROST, Monticello, Utah.
contains the astronomers' offices and only one; 6. predators — especially
laboratories. This imposing two-story coyotes; 7. year-around poaching by OUT OP THE PAST
Arrowhead Jewelry!
stone structure is the center of the in- ranchers and their hired riders — the A "Lost" art revived! Earrings:
Large, medium, small, $2 pair
stitution's activities, and contains pho- biggest cause of the decline and the Obsidian black color. Matching
necklace 18" chain, $1.50. Bolo
tographs, drawings, books and me- one few sportsmen will accept; and Tie: Large arrowhead, leather
mentos left by many of the world's 8. the hunter who is not a sportsman. ette cord. $1.50. Order Now
Stone arrowhead making in
greatest astronomers, some of whom —Phoenix Gazette si ructions. Illustrated, com
plete, $1. (Dealers Inquire.)
worked here. At present, Lowell's • • • CHIEF BLACKHAWK
Box 5V4-DM, Kennewick, Wash.
staff has nine astronomers and tech-
nicians. Navajos Kept from Jobs . . .
WINDOW ROCK — An attorney
Lowell Observatory is open to the for the Navajo tribe charged that In- 1000 TRAVEL SCENES
public from 1:30 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. dians have been prevented from work-
every day except Sundays and Holi- ing on their own reservation. Laurence
days. During the summer months from Davis of Phoenix said private con-
June through August, Lowell has reg- tractors building roads on Indian lands
ularly scheduled night visiting hours have not given preference to Indians SPECIAL OFFER
on every other Friday. Verification of in hiring. The Federal government
the dates should be made before plan- handled the construction projects prior To introduce readers of DESERT to our
2"x2" COLOR SLIDES for home projec-
ning to visit the observatory at night. to 1954, and up to that time Indians tion, we are offering a FREE 20 page
catalog and a FREE sample color slide.
Daytime visitors receive a lecture had been given employment prefer- Travel, Science, Nature, National Parks
and the southwest. Write today to —
in the library and then visit the tele- ence. Davis also said Indians have
scope. There is no charge for this had trouble with unions on reservation K E L L Y D. C H O D A
projects.—Yuma Sun 732 URSULA ST. AURORA 8, COLO.
tour.

JULY, 1958 31
JOSHUA TREE cabin for rent, furnished
or unfurnished, just 2Vi miles from town
THE DESERT TRADING POST
Classified Advertising in This Section Costs 12c a Word, $2.00 Minimum Per Issue
on Monument Road, paved highway, high
desert. Write owner, Arthur Kikkert,
Post Office Box 299, Joshua Tree, Calif.
40 ACRES overlooking Salton Sea. Fine
citrus land. $30,000. Ronald L. Johnson.
Broker, Box 162, Thermal, California.
BOOKS — MAGAZINES FINE RESERVATION-MADE Navajo and
Zuni jewelry. Old pawn. Hundreds of DESERT ACREAGE—5, 10 and 20 acre
OUT-OF-PRINT books at lowest prices! fine old baskets, moderately priced, in parcels. Boron, Kramer, Adelanto, Bar-
You name it—we find it! Western Ameri- excellent condition. Navajo rugs, Chi- stow and other areas in all counties.
cana, desert and Indian books a specialty. mayo homespuns, artifacts. A collector's Terms as low as $10 down and $10
Send us your wants. No obligation. In- paradise! Open daily 10 to 5:30, closed month. Davis Desert Properties, 12175
ternational Bookfinders, Box 3003-D, Mondays. Buffalo Trading Post, High- Washington Blvd., Los Angeles. EX
Beverly Hills, California. way 18, Apple Valley, California. 8-2781, TE 0-1975.
HAVE REAL fun with desert gems, min- AUTHENTIC INDIAN JEWELRY, Nav- URANIUM MINES for lease or sale, 45
erals and rocks. The rockhounds' how- ajo rugs, Chimayo blankets, squaw boots, miles south of Hanksville, Utah. Spring
to-do-it magazine tells how. One year old Indian collection. Closed Tuesdays. water, good camp, good mines. Claude
(12 issues) only $3.00. Sample 25c. Gems Pow-Wow Indian Trading Post, 19967 Simonds, Hanksville, Utah.
and Minerals, Box 687-D, Mentone, Cal. Ventura Blvd., East Woodland Hills, Cal.
WESTERN MERCHANDISE
BARRY STORM—famed writer-publisher- THREE FINE prehistoric Indian war arrow-
explorer "Thunder God's Gold," "Prac- FREE CATALOG: Western wear, boots,
heads $1. Flint scalping knife $1. Rare saddles, leather supplies. Silver Spur,
tical Prospecting," "Tales of the South- flint thunderbird $3. All for only $4.
west," (see cardex files most libraries), Box 1785-JJ2, Fort Worth, Texas.
Catalog free. Arrowhead, Glenwood, Ark.
now has ready for publication:
THE MOUNTAINS TOTEM POLE, 14 foot, $150. Tepee and MISCELLANEOUS
THAT WERE GOD poles, $125. Buffalo hide shield, $175. LADY GOD1VA "The World's Finest
—fantastic factual story of Lost Peralta All old genuine. Bernard, Box 972, Santa Beautifier." For women who wish to
and Lost Dutchman Mines, based upon Cruz, California. become beautiful, for women who wish
author's treasure hunting expeditions in to remain beautiful. An outstanding des-
Arizona's sinister Superstition Mountains MAGIC KACHINAS—Now you can prac- ert cream. For information, write or call
mining district and location of gold-bear- tice the age-old Pueblo Indian art of Lola Barnes, 963 N. Oakland, Pasadena
ing region verified by one rediscovered carving wooden replicas of the "magic" 6, Calif., or phone SYcamore 4-2378.
mine, relics, other actual evidence. Pop- Kachina beings. Booklet contains com-
ular-priced book considered capable mak- plete carving instructions, authentic pat- ASSAYS. Complete, accurate, guaranteed.
ing dozens to one profit on publication, terns, and descriptions of six figures; a Highest quality spectrographic. Only $5
national exploitation costs during 28 year map of the Southwest Indian Pueblo per sample. Reed Engineering, 620-R So.
copyright. Need 50 only copyright co- area; and the story of the Hopi Indians Inglewood Ave., Inglewood, California.
owners underwrite costs of $40 per 1/ and kachinas. Photos of the six kachina
100th co-ownership, payable $10 down, figures appear on the back cover. Only GHOST TOWN ITEMS: Sun-colored glass,
$10 monthly for three months. I operate $1.00 prepaid. Order your "Magic Ka- amethyst to royal purple; ghost railroads
deal, own 50/100ths, pay profits every china" Booklet now from Ethos Publish- materials, tickets; limited odd items from
six months. Publishing contract for actual ing Co., P.O. Box 5056, Phoenix, Arizona. camps of the '60s. Write your interest—
copyright co-ownership sent on approval Include 10 cents for mailing and handling. Box 64-D, Smith, Nevada.
or upon receipt first payment. State
number 1/100th co-ownerships wanted. MAKE DELICIOUS Rancho Cookies. No
CLUBS — ORGANIZATIONS baking, no fussing. Your friends will love
Storm Publishing Associates, Box 74, In-
yokern, California. ARE YOU interested in prospecting for them. Secret instructions 50c. Mrs.
minerals, or rockhunting? Write for lit- Vermeulen, Box 172, Rancho LaPaz,
erature to United Prospectors, 701Vi E. Anaheim, California.
INDIAN GOODS Edgeware, Los Angeles, 26, California.
10,000 TONS dumps and tailings. Want
SELLING 100,000 Indian relics. 100 nice man with truck and loader to haul. 50-50
ancient arrowheads $25.00. Small grooved MAPS
deal. J. S. Wisdom, Lida via Goldpoint,
stone tomahawk $2.00. Large grooved SECTIONIZED COUNTY maps — San Nevada.
stone tomahawk $3.00. Perfect spear- Bernardino $1.50; Riverside $1; Imperial,
head over 8 inches long $20.00. Flint small $1, large $2; San Diego 50c; Inyo, WORTHY GEOPHYSICAL development
scalping knife $1.00. Indian skull $25.00. western half $1.25, eastern half, $1.25; project needs capital. For information
Ancient water bottle from grave $7.00. Kern $1.25; other California counties write today. Harold Deck, 1610 Fox-
List free. Lear's, Glenwood, Arkansas. $1.25 each. Nevada counties $1 each. worthy, San Jose 24, California.
Topographic maps of all mapped western
areas. Westwide Maps Co., 114 W. Third
St., Los Angeles, California.
southern Utah and northern Arizona.
DESERT QUIZ ANSWERS TREASURE MAP. Fifty lost mines, treas- During construction, the dangling arch
Questions are on page 10 ures, and wrecks. History of each in- will be suspended from 100-foot tow-
cluded. $1. Prospector, 3915 Lamont, ers on each rim of the canyon. The
1—Mined from the ground. San Diego 9.
2—Beaver. bridge is expected to be open to traffic
3—Lost mine. CALICO MAPS—Calico Ghost Town road by February of next year.—Salt Lake
4—Yucca. map; rockhounds' trail map. The only Tribune
5—Rio Grande. accurate guides to the Calico Mountains.
6—Yuma. Both maps for 25c per set. Write: Calico • • •
7—Nevada. Maps, Box 86, Etiwanda, California. JEROME—Robert S. "Pop" Clan-
8—Mortar or metate.
9—Tree rings in the roof timbers. REAL ESTATE
ton {Desert, April, '56) passed away
10—Red. in mid-April. Known as the Old Pros-
11—Daylight pass. SALTON SEA. See us for acreage large pector of Jerome, he was 74 years of
12—Calcite. and small. Also homesites and business
13—Kayenta. sites. Pon & Co., 711 N. Azusa Avenue, age.—Verde Independent
14—Nogales. Azusa, California. • • •
15—Arizona. MUST DISPOSE of these Goldfield, Nev- CALIFORNIA
16—Lead. ada, properties: 4-room house and five Salton Sea Pollution Denied . . .
17—Apaches. cabins on 200-foot Highway 95 frontage
18—Hassayampa River. —ideal motel site; 4-room house on two BRAWLEY — A charge made by
19—Creamy white. lots; three-lot parcel. Also must sell Dick Lane, water pollution chairman
20—Bisnaga. gold, silver, copper and sulphur mining of the Southern Council of Conserva-
claims. Moser, P. O. Box 176. tion Clubs, that waters of the Salton
32 DESERT MAGAZINE
Sea were shockingly contaminated, was County to Inspect Small Tracts . . . Pony Express Group Formed . . .
denied by Terrence Donovan, execu- SAN BERNARDINO—Small tract CARSON CITY—Articles of incor-
tive officer of the State Regional Water improvements completed by lessees on poration for the National Pony Ex-
Pollution Control Board. Donovan, Federal Government land in San Ber- press Centennial Association have been
who pointed out that he was not mini- nardino County will be inspected by filed in Nevada, thus paving the way
mizing the danger of pollution in the the county. The cooperative arrange- for the organization of a statewide
sea, said that there is no identifiable ment was made through an agreement committee to direct local celebration
contamination in the northern area, between the county and the Bureau of of the famed mail-carrying system in
which is the only section used to any Land Management. 1960. Similar papers were filed in
extent for recreation. Imperial Valley Utah, and others are planned for Cali-
cities are dumping raw sewage into • • •
fornia, Missouri, Wyoming, Kansas,
the New River which flows into the NEVADA Nebraska and Colorado, for it was
southern end of the sea, but Donovan through these eight states that the Pony
reported progress is being made to Jarbidge Wild Area Established . . .
HUMBOLDT FOREST—The Na- Express operated for 18 months com-
eliminate this unfavorable condition.— mencing in April, 1860. The National
Coachella Valley Sun tional Forest Service has established Association will sponsor a re-running
the Jarbidge Wild Area embracing 66,- of the Pony Express from St. Joseph,
• • • 107 acres of the Humboldt National
Bristlecone Pine Area Withdrawn Missouri, to Sacramento, California.—
Forest. The area includes major por- Nevada State Journal
WHITE MOUNTAINS—The Na- tions of the scenic Jarbidge Mountains
tional Forest Service has set aside as in northern Elko County. In all, eight
a Natural Area 27,000 acres in the mountain peaks varying from 10,100
White Mountains for the protection of to 10,839 feet in elevation above sea HISTORIC
the ancient bristlecone pine forest. level are in the new wild area. — OLD CALICO GHOST TOWN
Arrangements have been made for the Nevada Appeal in San Bernardino County, California
Now being restored by Knotts Berry Farm
stationing of a ranger in the area to • • •
protect the trees, believed to be the
oldest living objects on earth. Within
the Natural Area boundary are 100
Mead Most Popular Park . . .
LAKE MEAD —The Lake Mead
MAP
11 by 13 inches of the Old Calico Mining
bristlecones over 4000 years old and National Recreation Area — with its District. Two pictures showing main street
and upper main street, picture of over 150
thousands in the 3000-4000 age feature attraction of Hoover Dam — mining claims—their names. Also diagram
bracket. The Forest Service plans to of the area of the Old Calico Ghost Town.
is the most visited park area in the Send Only 50c
open a campsite on the edge of the nation. During the record year of
area. 1957, a total of 2,955,257 tourists vis- WM. STOCKMAN
ited the dam and lake.—Pioche Record 2369 Mountain Avenue, La Crescenta, Calif.
• • •
Joshua Park Acquisition Near . . .
LANCASTER—Only two privately
owned parcels remain to be acquired In the past dozen years
in the proposed 3000-acre Joshua Tree
State Park in Antelope Valley. The NELL MURBARGER
total project involved 19 parcels. How- has traveled thousands of miles along the
ever, the state reported it has hit a snag
in the acquisition program in the form remote back trails of the Great Basin Area. Here she has met many
of a Federal mineral reservation en- remarkable sons and daughters of the Sagebrush Country—the people
cumbering the 320 acres bisecting the she now writes about in her delightful new book—•
site.—Ledger-Gazette
• • •
Hot Water Bowl Below Valley . . .
CALIPATRIA — A possible huge
underground basin of volcanically-
heated water which could provide
enough steam power to supply all of
Southern California with electricity has
been found in Imperial Valley. The
basin was tapped at a depth of 4700
feet during oil exploration drilling in —a Treasury of True Stories about Unusual People and Places
the northern Imperial Valley near the in the vast Sagebrush Kingdom of the Western United States,
Salton Sea.—Yuma Sun
by the author of GHOSTS OF THE GLORY TRAIL.
• • •
Indian Cemetery Restoration . . .
TWENTYNINE PALMS — The
Order Your Copy Today by Mail
local American Legion Auxiliary has $6.00 Postpaid Send orders to
taken on as a community service proj- California buyers DESERT MAGAZINE PRESS
ect the restoration of the Chemehuevi add 24c sales tax Palm Desert, California
Indian Cemetery just west of the
Twentynine Palms Oasis. Among the This volume, published on May 15, 1958, contains 380 pages; 70
60 Indians thought to be buried here
is Chief Jim Boniface, known among superb halftone photographs; eight pages of maps; and complete
whites as Old Man Jim. He died in cross index. Printed on excellent-quality book paper.
1903 at the age of 90.—Desert Trail
JULY, 1958 33
Land for Gunnery Range . . . the U. S. Public Health Service. Among and 4000 ewes since January from the
LOVELOCK—The Department of the questions Constantine and his as- poison weed. Botanists have uncov-
Interior has approved withdrawal of sociates will try to answer is whether ered three different species of loco
791,106 acres of public lands in north- bats can transmit the fatal disease to weed in the area between Bonanza and
ern Nevada for the controversial Navy other wild and domestic animals and Willow Creek. Normally, loco weed
aerial gunnery range (Desert, Oct. to human beings. If bats do transmit is not palatable, but once animals start
'56). At the same time, the govern- the disease, the field station at the eating it, a desire and habit is devel-
ment restored to full public use about college will seek the answer to how, oped.—Salt Lake Tribune
2,000,000 acres of land originally re- when and where this is done. Next • • •
quested by the Navy in 1955 in addi- will come the development of methods Signs to Keep Drivers Alert . . .
tion to the acreage it obtained. The of control.—Las Cruces Citizen WENDOVER—The long and mo-
lands are in the Black Rock Desert • • • notonous 102-mile stretch of highway
and Sahwave Mountains. The with- Navajo Dam Bids Opened . . . between Wendover and Grantsville
drawal is for a five year period, and NAVAJO DAM SITE —Bids for which crosses the barren Great Salt
provides for a five-year extension if construction of Navajo Dam in north- Lake Desert, will be dotted with 14
need for such is demonstrated. — ern New Mexico were scheduled to be new signs designed to prevent motor-
Nevada State Journal opened on June 19. The Department ists from dozing at the wheel—a seri-
• • • of Interior, in making this announce- ous highway hazard on this road.
NEW MEXICO ment, said it hopes construction con- "Watch for Sleepy Drivers!" "Keep
tracts can be awarded by June 30. Alert and Keep Alive!" and "Be Alert,
Bat Rabies Being Studied . . . The dam and reservoir project on the Don't Doze at the Wheel!" are some
LAS CRUCES — Headquarters for San Juan River is a major storage fea- of the messages that will appear along
a nationwide study of rabies in bats ture of the Upper Colorado River the western leg of U.S. Highway 40.—
was established at New Mexico A&M Storage Project. Estimated cost of the Salt Lake Tribune
College. Directing the five-year pro- Navajo unit is $42,372,000. It is de- • • •
gram is Dr. Denny G. Constantine of signed to provide storage, river regula- Indian Petroglyph Returned . . .
tion, irrigation water and aid sedimen- MONTICELLO—San Juan Coun-
tation control. The irrigation water ty's petroglyph carving of a mastodon
Considered would serve the proposed $135,000,-
by cooperative publisher who offers authors 000 Navajo Irrigation Project.—Phoe- was returned to its original location in
early publication, higher royalty, national Indian Creek. The unusual ancient
distribution, and beautifully designed books. nix Gazette
All subjects welcomed. Write, or send your Indian writing was discovered by two
MS directly. • • • Moab men. Later the 700-pound slab
GREENWICH BOOK PUBLISHERS, INC.
Atten. Mr. Slocum, 48» Fifth Ate., N.X., S.I. Many on Government Payroll . . . of rock bearing the petroglyph was
SANTA FE—One out of every five removed to Moab where plans were
persons in New Mexico derives his made to make it a part of an exhibit
AMERICA'S income directly from the government, for a new museum scheduled to be
UNIQUE EVENT compared with the national average of built there. Following protests from
one in 14. According to official gov- Monticello-area residents, the Depart-
Sand Painters • Dancers ernment figures, 27 percent of all per-
AUGUST 14-17 sonal income in New Mexico comes ment of Interior ruled that because
Write for Information from government payrolls. Only Vir- the petroglyph was removed without
Ceremonial Association ginia, with 29 percent of its wage- its permission, it had to be returned to
Box 1029, Gallup, N.M. earners working for the government, its original site.—San Juan Record
has a higher percentage. — Grants • • •
Beacon "Dutch John" Name Urged . . .
• • • MANILA—William D. Hurst, for-
You'll want to keep those mer Ashley Forest supervisor, believes
Giant Solar Furnace Planned . . . the Flaming Gorge Dam townsite
MAPS ALAMOGORDO — Construction
is scheduled on a massive mountain-
should be named Dutch John, Utah.
The name would do much to preserve
top solar furnace whose purpose it will the area's colorful history, Hurst said.
which appear each month in be to determine what intense heat does Dutch John Hanselena was a stock
Desert Magazine—maps which to materials which may go into space raiser and miner in the Manila area in
will be your guide on many de- ships. The $10,000,000 furnace is the 1860s.—Vernal Express
lightful excursions into the great designed to concentrate the sun's rays • • •
desert playground. with a simple but giant-size system of Poor Road to Four Corners . . .
Attractive loose-leaf binders em- optical mirrors. Based on calculations, FOUR CORNERS—The governors
bossed in gold not only will the furnace should be able to concen- of Utah, Colorado, Arizona and New
preserve the maps, but will be trate temperatures up to 8000 degrees Mexico recently announced agreement
a beautiful addition to your Fahrenheit in a tiny circle five inches that a suitable marker should be
home book-shelf. Each binder in diameter. This temperature is 70 erected at the place where their states
holds 12 copies. Easy to insert, percent as hot as the sun.—Antelope have a common meeting place—but
they open flat. Valley Ledger-Gazette one writer who followed the washboard
• • • trail to the site suggests that perhaps
Mailed postpaid for
UTAH improving the road would be the best
$2.50 Loco Weed Kills Livestock . . . monument the states could provide.
A small monument encircled by stones
VERNAL—Uintah Basin sheep and
THE cattle raisers have experienced serious already exists at Four Corners. The
livestock losses this past winter as a last eight miles to the monument is a
result of loco weed on the winter narrow rutted path with 35 side trails
PALM DESERT, CALIFORNIA range. Members of the Uintah Wool leading from it—and not one of them
Growers Association lost between 3000 is marked.—Salt Lake Tribune

34 DESERT MAGAZINE
Washington, D.C. . . .

MINESandMINING No Federal Government license or


permit is needed to prospect for, or
mine uranium on open public lands,
the U.S. Bureau of Land Management
announced. All valuable mineral de-
Victorville, California . . . Los Angeles . . . posits on land belonging to the United
A new method of controlling cement Utah's first crude oil shipped via States, both surveyed and unsurveyed,
dust pollution was installed at the the Four Corners Pipe Line arrived in are open to prospecting and location
Southwest Portland Cement Company's Los Angeles in late April. The pipe unless the land is classified for specific
Victorville plant. Known as the "Bag line at present is operating at its 70,- use.—Grants Beacon
House" method of control, the revo- 000-barrel-per-day capacity. About • • •
lutionary new system was perfected at 47,000 barrels daily are coming from Hesperia, California . . .
a cost of $1,000,000. The cement the 225 wells in San Juan County, Duke City Enterprises of Hesperia
industry throughout the world, as well Utah; and 23,000 barrels daily from has begun placer gold mining opera-
as many other industries faced with 500 wells in New Mexico. Experts tions on 480 acres of land in the Sum-
similar air pollution problems, may say Utah's oil production should in- mit Mining District. Known for over
benefit from the new control experi- crease five-fold over last year's, be- a century, the diggings once were
ment if it proves successful.—Victor cause of the pipe line. worked with small hand tools by Mor-
Press • • • mon emigrants.—Victor Press
• • • Garfield, Utah . . .
Lovelock, Nevada . . . Sale of the world's largest copper Hext time-
Owners of mining claims on Federal smelter at Garfield by American Smelt- take MINERALIGHT along
land in Washoe, Humboldt and Persh- ing and Refining Company to Kenne- -and have some real fun on field trips
ing counties that will be released from cott Copper Corporation recently took You see rocks and minerals at their
the U. S. Navy's aerial gunnery range place. Sale price was $20,000,000 fascinating best only when you
demands, will not have to do assess- cash. The transaction marks the end violet fluorescence. Take along
view them under the magic of ultra-

ment work for the fiscal year ending of over 50 years close association be- MINERALIGHT every time you hit the
June 30, 1958. The Interior Depart- tween the two concerns in smelting have more fun—learn
road. You'll do more, see more,

ment's decision thus eliminates what copper concentrates from the rich the more, too. Don't miss
might have been a hectic rush by Bingham mining district. Kennecott mineral dealer
displays at your

miners to preserve their titles to valu- will not take physical possession of the and at DISNEYLAND.
able mining lands. Last year, when the plant and facilities until January 2, Write for information.
Ultra-Violet
Navy sought the huge land grab, claim 1959. Some 1300 employees at the Products, Dept. D,
Inc.
holders complained that if they did big Garfield smelter are affected by the San Gabriel, Calif.
their $100 worth of work on each announcement.—Salt Lake Tribune
claim and the Navy took over, there
would be no repayment. Many held
off doing the work because of this
uncertainty, others because of the pres-
ent economic slump in the mining
Compton Rock Shop
industry. The Navy revised its de- METAL DETECTORS
mands, and is taking only the Sahwave
area it used during World War II.— - Battery test switch
Lovelock Review-Miner • Head phones with clear signal
• • • • Great sensitivity • Low cost operation
Washington, D. C. . . . • One nob control • Easiest of all to operate
The Atomic Energy Commission has MORE ACCURATE, it's the first METAL DETECTOR designed SPE-
authorized private sale of uranium CIFICALLY for detecting placer gold, nuggets, a n d other small metal
ores and "yellowcake." Prior to the objects. Depth range 7 feet—comes complete, ready to use.
AEC's decision, the U.S. government
had allowed only itself to buy and sell MODEL 27—instructions included $110.00
uranium. Industry leaders were quick MODEL 711—with 21 ft. depth range $138.50
to note that the privilege of selling
uranium to other than the government MINERALIGHT—Complete line from $14.95 up to SI 14.00
will give the uranium industry a chance Send for Complete Information
to develop a market while still being
supported by the Federal government. VISIT OUR NEW MINERAL DEPARTMENT, stocked with many out-
The AEC will continue to license all standing specimens, including native wire silver from Honduras, S. A.
sales, issuing permission upon receipt LAPIDARY EQUIPMENT & SUPPLIES—TOOLS—GEMS—JEWELRY
of "satisfactory information concern-
ing the proposed use of the materials." CHEMICAL KITS, MORTARS & PESTLES—PICKS—BOOKS—ETC.
—-Grants Beacon FOR THE WOOD WORKING HOBBYIST WE NOW STOCK A
COMPLETE LINE OF ATLAS AND PORTER CABLE POWER TOOLS
EXPLORE FOR TREASURE! (buy from an experienced wood worker)
Find gold, silver, coins, battle
relies! M-SCOPE Treasure-Metal
Locators. Guaranteed proven-per-
formance. Transistors, Fiberglas domfikon J\oak ^Snoh
cases, lightweight. Also Geiger,
scintillation counters, minera- 1405 S. Long Beach Blvd. 3 blocks south of Olive
lights. Free catalog. Easy terms.
FISHKK RESEARCH LAB., Inc. NEwmark 2-9096 Open Friday Evenings Compton. California
Dept. D-l, Palo Alto, Calif.

JULY, 1958 35
Cordova, New Mexico . . . announced by officials of two firms, Tonopah, Nevada . . .
Proposed construction of a $250,000 Mineral Industrial Commodities of Gold and silver bullion ingots val-
mill for the processing of mica and America, a Dallas company; and Clute ued at $7273 were poured at the Silver
associated minerals near Cordova, was Corporation, Denver. The mill is ex- Peak Mill of the United States Mining
pected to have a 300-ton-per-day ore and Minerals Corporation. Company
capacity. Completion date was set for officials said the procedure is expected
Comparison Mineral Specimens early fall. Reserves on the companies' to be repeated at 10-day intervals.
64 different 1" specimens, only $6.00 ppd. holdings have been estimated at a
Send for FREE details on above offer, Enough silver and gold ore was stock-
PLUS 64 other 1" specimens, all available
at 10 for $1.00!
minimum of 500,000 tons of scrap piled to supply the 400-ton treatment
California customers add 4% sales tax mica, in addition to other tonnages of plant for several months, but custom
MINERALS UNLIMITED columbite, titanium and beryl.—New
1724 University Avenue, Dept. D ore was invited from all sources within
Berkeley 3, California Mexican practical hauling distance. — Pioche
• • • Record
Blythe. California . . . • • •
$ $ $ TREASURE $ $ $
New transistor metal detector finds lost or Woolstone, Inc., Palo Verde Valley's Four Corners Area . . .
hidden treasure, coins, gold, silver, Jewelry,
relics. Profitable hobby. New underwater newest industry, successfully completed With new oil and gas exploration in
metal detector detects sunken ships, out- trial runs at its new plant about six prospect for Navajo Tribal lands in
board motors. the Four Corners Area, the regional
etc., in 300 ft. miles north of Blythe on the Midland
of salt or fresh
water. Oper- Road. The company has perfected demand for barite is bound to be good
ates from a methods of converting wollastonite for some time to come, mining experts
boat. Scintilla- predict. Nearly 85 percent of the
tion counter. into spun fiber for domestic insulation
barite used in this country goes into
x;
Free catalog. materials. The new plant represents
GARDINER drilling mud for the oil industry. Ne-
ELECTRONICS an investment of $300,000, and when vada has already stepped up its out-
DEPT. 9
2 S 4 5 E. INDIAN
in operation will employ a maximum put from 44,000 tons to 114,000 tons,
SCHOOL ROAD of 70 men. It has a capacity of 50 and barite mining activity also is in-
PHOENIX, ARIZ.
tons daily.—Palo Verde Valley Times creasing in Arizona and New Mexico.
Over 75 percent of the nation's do-
mestic barite comes from Arkansas
and Missouri.—Pioche Record

Prospectors' Headquarters • • •
Garfield. Utah . . .
Construction is underway on a
GEIGER COUNTERS AND SCINTILLATORS $200,000 fluorine chemicals facility at
The "Snooper" Geiger counter—model 108 9 29.95 Garfield. Building the plant is United
The "Lucky Strike" Geiger counter—Model 106C 99.50 Heckathorn, Inc., of Richmond, Cali-
The "Professional" Geiger Counter—Model 107C 149.50
The
The
"Special Scintlllator"—Model 117
"Deluxe" Scintillator—Model 111B
299.50
495.00
fornia. The company also plans to
set up an agricultural chemicals plant
ULTRA-VIOLET MINERALIGHTS at Salt Lake City. Most immediate
Model NH—Operates on 110 AC only 14.75 objective in sales and production will
Model M12—Operates on batteries only—with battery 40.65 be output of artificial cryolite, a com-
Model SL-2537—Operates on batteries or 110 AC—without case and batteries 39.50
With No. 303 case and batteries 61.00 plex fluorine salt (sodium aluminate
With No. 404 case and batteries 66.00
fluoride) which is used as a flux or
BOOKS catalyst in the aluminum industry.
"Prospecting with a Geiger Counter" by Wright 60 United Heckathorn hopes to produce
"Uranium Color Photo Tone"
"Uranium Prospectors Hand Book"
1-00
1.00
between 1600 and 1800 tons of the
"The Uranium and Fluorescent Minerals" by H. C. Dake 2.00 material in Utah this year.—Salt Lake
"Popular Prospecting" by H. C. Dake 2.00 Tribune
"Uranium, Where It Is and How to Find It" by Proctor and Hyatt 2.50
"Minerals for Atomic Energy" by Nininger 7.50 • • •
"Let's Go Prospecting" by Edward Arthur 3.50
San Juan County. Utah . . .
MAPS Latest technological advances in ur-
Map and Geology (Uranium and Mineral Districts of California) 1.50
Map of Kern County (New Section and Township) 1.50 anium mining methods by the coun-
Map Uranium and Minerals (The Nine Southwest States) 1.00 try's largest independent operation,
Book and Map "Gems and Minerals of California" by McAllister 1.75
Book and Map "Lost Mines and Treasures of the Southwest" 2.00 Continental Materials, Inc., were de-
scribed by the Bureau of Mines. Con-
OTHER SUPPLIES tinental's No. 1 mine in San Juan
Mineral Hardness Test Set 2.25 County, where 12 men are employed,
Radiassay—Uranium Test Kit 14.95
Mercury—Detector Fluorescent Screen
Scheelite Fluorescent Analyzer
6.75
6.00
produces 1500 tons of vanadium-bear-
Fluorescent Mineral Set—10 Specimens—boxed 2.50 ing uranium ore a month. Continent-
Mineral Specimen Boxes (35 named Minerals) 1.50 al's advanced mining techniques in-
Prospectors Picks (not polished) 4.50
Prospectors Picks (polished)
12" Diameter Steel Gold Pan
5.00
1.25
clude blending ore from two different
16" Diameter Steel Gold Pan t.70 ore bodies to keep the grade of ship-
All prices F.O.B. Los Angeles
ments at a profitable level; diesel-
Add 4 % Sales Tax if you live in California
powered trackless mining and haulage
Member of American Gem & Mineral Suppliers Association
units in the underground operations;
new roof support methods; different
types of drills and explosives for vary-
ALLEN LAPIDARY EQUIPMENT COMPANY ing rock formations; and analysis of
3632 West Slausen Ave., Dept. D Open Monday evening until 9:00 Los Angeles, Calif. mine air to guard against radioactive
gases.—Battle Mountain Scout

36 DESERT MAGAZINE
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA MINE
CLOSED TO COLLECTORS
Ralph Potter, owner of the Himalaya
Mine at Mesa Grande, California, an-
nounced that this property is no longer
open to collecting by amateur rockhounds.
INYO AREA GEM FIELDS The mine produced many tons of tourma-
MAPPED BY ASSOCIATION line in the early 1900s and for the past
The Southern Inyo Planning Association several years Potter has been extending
plans to mail a gem and mineral location many tunnels. Recently a tourmaline strike
map to all Western rockhound societies. was reported, and the owner feels that the
The map covers an area from Red Rock increase in visitors may hamper mining
Canyon, California, on the south, to Cole- operations.—Compton, California, Gem and
dale, Nevada, on the north, and extends Mineral Club's Rockhounds Call
July 4-6—Bend, Oregon. Second Annual from the Alabama Hills on the west to • • •
Central Oregon Gem and Mineral Show, Beatty, Nevada, on the east. It shows 11
presented by the Deschutes Geology Club gem and mineral areas. New officers of the St. Louis Mineral
at the Bend Armory. Held in conjunc- and Gem Society are: Karl Busch, presi-
Available at the Association's Lone Pine dent; Charles Seger, vice president; Mrs.
tion with the Mirror Pond Pageant. office will be free mimeographed detail maps
July 19-20—Watsonville, California. Third Mabel Toeniskoetter, secretary; Arthur Mat-
of each of the areas.—Inyo Independent lack, treasurer; Mrs. Gloria Chastonay, his-
Annual Show of the Pajaro Valley Rock- torian; and Kenneth Gibbons, Howard York,
hounds at the Fairgrounds. Charles Ozment and Mrs. Shirley Jean
July 19-20—Paradise, California. Mineral INSECTS IN AMBER GIVE
CLUES TO ANCIENT WEATHER Courtney, directors.—Rock Lore
Club's show at Paradise Memorial Hall.
July 26-27—Fallon, Nevada. Third Annual Insects which crawled over the earth 30,- • • •
All Nevada Gem and Mineral Show at 000,000 years ago, perfectly preserved in These new officers were elected by the
the Fairgrounds. Lahontan Gem and bits of amber, are being studied by scientists Pomona Valley, California, Mineral Club:
Mineral Club, host. Also participating at the University of California. Paleontology Sterling Pugsley, president; Orrin Hillburg,
are the Pyramid and Washoe societies of Professor J. Wyatt Durham said the insects vice president; Mrs. Helen Welch, secre-
Reno. Camping facilities available for probably caught in the tree resin millions tary; Mrs. C. W. Henderson, treasurer; and
visitors. Field trips planned. of years ago, with the resin eventually be- Dr. John L. Sugar, director.
July 26-27—Crescent City, California. Del coming amber. The specimens were col-
Norte Rockhounds Show at Fairground lected in Mexico two years ago. So far the
pavilion. scientists have identified about 75 species of PRE-HIS!'ORIC STYLE
July 26-27 — DeLake, Oregon. Sixteenth prehistoric insects. The insects give vital ARROWH EAD JEWELRY
Annual North Lincoln Agate Society's clues to the type of climate and vegetation OF SYNTH ETIC GEMSTONE
show at DeLake grade school. which existed 30,000,000 years ago. — Arrowheads mount ed in thunderbird fittings,
S.M.S. Matrix All metal parts nc n-tarnish rhodium finish,
August 2-3—Anderson, California. Second Opaque colors: ol sidian black, milk white,
Annual Rock Swap of the Shasta Gem • • • yellow, bittersweet.
The first paint pigment to be made chem- Clear colors: xl, pink-
and Mineral Society. Event will be held
at the Coleman Fish Hatchery, 11 miles ically was Egyptian Blue — manufactured f\ .9 xl, smoke, amethyst.
Matched earrings,
east of Anderson. Camping, fishing and 1000 years before King Solomon built his tax incl $3.30
swimming available to visitors.
August 7-9 — Asheville, North Carolina.
Eastern Federation of Mineralogical So-
temple and 3000 years before the birth of
Christ. Although the secret for its produc-
tion was lost about 700 A.D., the pigment ? ¥ 18-inch necklace,
tax incl $2.20
postage - ins. - prepaid

t
has been analyzed and found to contain dealers inquiries invited
cieties Annual Convention and Show. sand mixed with lime, soda and copper INDIAN TRAIL
Southern Appalachian Mineral Society, carbonate. The ingredients were heated for PRODUCTS CO.
host. Baum Building
several days at between 1450 and 1650 Danville, Illinois
August 10 — Hollister, California. Tri- degrees Fahrenheit.—S.M.S. Matrix
County Clubs Annual Rock Swap at
Bolado Park. Sponsored by Hollister,
Monterey Bay, Santa Cruz and Pajaro
Valley societies.
August 14-17 — Placerville, California. El
Dorado County Gem and Mineral Soci-
ety's show in conjunction with county
DADDY, WHAT'S THIS PIECE OF ROCK?"]
fair.
August 16-17—Morton, Washington. Rock-
ologist Club's Second Annual Jubilee Gem .. . Can you tell a piece of granite from
and Mineral Show.
August 16-17 — Santa Cruz, California. a piece of sandstone
Mineral and Gem Society's show at River-
side Hotel.
August 30-September 1—Pasco, Washing- .. . Would you recognize a valuable stone
ton. Eighteenth Annual Northwest Fed- if you saw it?
eration Show and Convention at high
school gymnasium. Lakeside Gem and
Mineral Club of Kennewick, host. Camp-
ing for visitors along Columbia River will Other people are finding fortunes every day . . .
be available. the land is rich in valuable minerals—gems—
• • • stones. LEARN THE FACTS . . . THE KNOWLEDGE
Members of the Southern California MIGHT MAKE YOU RICH!
Mineral Identification Society of Los Ange-
les named the following new officers: Fred
Lowe, president; Ted Arnold, vice president; SEND FOR THESE 2 VALUABLE ITEMS ON OUR SPECIAL OFFER!
Herbert A. Joslin, historian; and Gladys
Joslin, secretary-treasurer.
1. Illustrated booklet "Rock Determination Simplified," with
elementary knowledge you should have.
NOTICE 2. "Find a Fortune Kit" which gives you the starting informa-
to all our customers— tion necessary.
NEW SHOP HOURS: Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.;
open until 10 p.m. on Wednesdays; closed BOTH FOR ONLY $"|50
Sundays and Mondays.
VALLEY ART SHOPPE
21108 Devonshire Blvd., Chatsworth, Calif.
Phone Diamond 8-4607 GRIEGEITS 1633 E. Walnut, Pasadena 18, Calif.

JULY, 1 9 5 8 37
NOTICE ROCKHOUNDS! — Hand-forged
one piece polished steel prospecting picks,
GEm maRT ADVERT
12c a word
SING RATE
. . Minimum $2.00
$4 each postpaid in U.S.A. Ray Flarty,
Box 160, Nederland, Colorado.
DEALERS
VISIT GOLD PAN Rock Shop. Beautiful
BOOKS - MAGAZINES MEXICAN AGATE BAROQUES. Very sphere material, gems, mineral specimens,
HAVE REAL FUN with desert gems, min- colorful, high polish, $4 pound. Rare choice crystals, gem materials, jewelry,
erals and rocks. The rockhounds' how-to- eye agate $6 pound postpaid. Send for baroques, etc. Over 100 tons of material
do-it magazine tells how. One year (12 price list on rough Mexican agate. W. T. to select from. John and Etta James,
issues) only $3.00. Sample 25c. Gems Osborne, Box 407, Alamogordo, N.M. proprietors, 2020 N. Carson Street, Car-
and Minerals, Box 687-D, Mentone, Calif. son City, Nevada.
CUTTING MATERIALS DESERT ROCKS, woods, jewelry. Resi-
THE BOOK of Mineral Photographs, 118 dence rear of shop. Rockhounds wel-
pages, octavo, over one hundred pages DINOSAUR BONE. Gem quality colorful come. Mile west on U.S. 66. McShan's
of excellent illustrations of fine minerals agatized, jasperized, opalized bone 50c
pound. Also beautiful red lace agate $1 Gem Shop and Desert Museum. P.O.
and rocks with descriptions. Indexed. Box 22, Needles, California.
$1.68 postpaid. B. M. Shaub, 159 Elm pound. Postage extra. Gene Stephen,
Street, Northampton, Massachusetts. Route 2, Grand Junction, Colorado. ROCKS—opposite West End Air Base, ag-
TURQUOISE—Exceptionally clean Ameri- ate, woods, minerals, books, local infor-
CUT-POLISHED-TUMBLED GEMS can water-worn nuggets in pure undyed mation. No mail orders please. Iron-
natural colors and higrade solids. $5 wood Rock Shop, Highway 60-70 west
LARGE VARIETY mixed tumbled stone brings your choice postpaid 150 grams of Blythe, California.
—Tigereye, agates, obsidian, palm root, "good" or 125-g. "better" or 100-g. "best."
quartz. 40-60 stones in pound—only $4. Desertgems, Macatawa, Michigan. MINERALS - FOSSILS
Cash or money orders, tax paid. Sid's 12 POUNDS OF beautiful Colorado min-
Originals, Route 1, Box 369, Beaumont, OPALS, DEEP RED, blue, green, golden, eral specimens, $8.00 prepaid. Ask for
California. flashing in all colors of the rainbow, list of others. Jack the Rockhound, P. O.
direct from the mine, 15 for $5.00. 10 Box 245, Carbondale, Colorado.
GENUINE TURQUOISE: Natural color, ringsize stones (opal, amethyst, etc.)
blue and bluish green, cut and polished ground and polished, ready to set $5.00. GREEN GARNETS from Mexico. While
cabochons — 25 carats (5 to 10 stones Kendall, Sanmiguel d'Allende, Guana- they last, a full pound of green garnet
according to size) $3.50 including tax, juato, Mexico. crystal specimens from Mexico for $3
postpaid in U.S.A. Package 50 carats (10 pp. R. Berry, 5040 Corby St., Omaha 4,
to 20 cabochons) $6.15 including tax, TURQUOISE FOR SALE. Turquoise in the Nebraska.
postpaid in U.S.A. Elliott Gem & Mineral rough priced at from $5 to $50 a pound.
Shop, 235 E. Seaside Blvd., Long Beach Royal Blue Mines Co., Tonopah, Nevada. FOSSILS. 12 different for $2. Other prices
2, California. on request. Will buy, sell or trade. Mu-
WE ARE MINING every day. Mojave seum of Fossils, Clifford H. Earl, P. O.
FACETED STONES, cabochons, carved Desert agate, jasper and palm wood Box 188, Sedona, Arizona.
stones, etc. Drop us a postcard for free shipped mixed 100 pounds $10.50 F.O.B.
price list. R. Berry & Co., 5040 Corby Barstow. Morton Minerals & Mining, GEMMY FLUORITE octahedrons. 3 pairs
St., Omaha 4, Nebraska. 21423 Highway 66, R.F.D. 1, Barstow, $1. Each pair a different color. Gene
California. Curtiss, 911 Pine St., Benton, Kentucky.
ATTENTION DEALERS and novelty
stores: "Baroque Jewelry" — earrings, CHALCEDONY ROSES, ropes, fire agate: GOLD QUARTZ specimens for sale. Ex-
necklaces, key chains, lariats, cufflinks mixed rough. Up to three inch pieces, tremely rich gold quartz from a produc-
and baroques by the pound; also pol- $2 pound. Larger pieces, $3 pound. ing Mother Lode mine. These specimens
ished thundereggs, petrified wood, snow- Sample, three pieces, $1. 10% tax. Post- have been hand picked for their excel-
flake obsidian—ready for resale. Write paid. Tako Rock Gems, Box 332, Sierra lence as collectors' items. $2 and up
for wholesale prices now. Roy's Rock Vista, Arizona. postpaid. Also fine quality gold nuggets
Shop, Box 133, Trinidad, California. $2 and up. Dell Riebe, P.O. Box 46,
OPALS AND SAPPHIRES direct from Grass Valley, California.
Australia. Special—this month's best buy:
Fine Andamooka cutting opals: 1 ounce MISCELLANEOUS
green opal, 1 ounce transparent opal, 1 35-YEAR COLLECTION of rocks, petrified
ounce opal chips. All 3 ounces airmailed
LJOOU C^aulpment. for $18. Send personal check, interna-
palm, iron and other woods, agates, fire
agates and cabinet specimens. D. W.
tional money order, bank draft. Free 16 Rogers, three blocks north of Midland
page list of all Australian Gemstones. Elevator, Ashton, Idaho.
SAorieS i Australian Gem Trading Co., 49 Eliza-
beth Street, Melbourne, Australia.

oo
/• ?
?upplieAl EQUIPMENT — SUPPLIES
TIGEREYE, CROCIDOLITE
ARE NOT SAME THING
ULTRA VIOLET lamps for spectacular A common mistake made by mineral
mineral fluorescence from $14.50. Free collectors is to use the words "tigereye"
Why spend your valuable time brochure. Radiant Ultra Violet Products, and "crocidolite" synonymously.
manufacturer, DM, Cambria Heights 11, Crocidolite is a blue asbestiform mineral,
hunting for lapidary equipment, New York. a variety of monoclinic amphibole. It is
accessories and supplies when BEFORE YOU BUY any lapidary equip- neither rare nor abundant, occurring here
ment, send a postcard for our new price and there in Europe, South America and
HILLQUIST can supply your New England (Massachusetts and Rhode
lists on all types of lapidary equipment Island)
every need? and supplies. See how we can save you ally arein small quantities. The fibers usu-
long, very slender and easily separ-
freight costs, etc. R. B. Berry & Co., able. They feel more or less like the fibers
5040 Corby St., Omaha 4, Nebraska. of amosite or harsh forms of chrysotile.
Send a postcard today for a 6" DISC DRY sanding cloth. 220, 320. 6 African tigereye is a highly silicified cro-
Free catalog and price list. for $1. Postpaid. Stop at our yard for cidolite in which the fibers have been
supplies. Jewelry. Rocks. Pollard, Rt. changed to iron oxide. The prevailing color
2, El Cajon, California. East on 80. of the resulting chatoyant material is a rich
golden brown. Red and shades of blue
Lapidary Equipment Co., Inc. BOLA AND JEWELRY finding price list. also are known. Throughout the 19th Cen-
Compare our prices before you buy. tury tigereye was used extensively in jew-
Please include 10c to cover cost of mail- elry. Carved into cameos, intaglios and
1545 W. 49th St., Dept. 17 ing. Dealers send resale number for cuvettes it most often was seen in men's
SEATTLE 7, WASHINGTON wholesale list. The Hobby Shop, Dept. rings, set in heavy plain or carved mount-
DM, P.O. Box 753, 1310 Elgin Street, ings.—Mineralogical Society of Arizona's
Caldwell, Idaho. Rockhound Record

38 DESERT MAGAZINE
TUBE DRILL IS PRACTICAL PRESERVE SILVER, COPPER as in the ideal form, except in certain spe-
cial cases. Badly distorted crystals may
WAY TO BORE GEM STONES SPECIMENS WITH LACQUER often be identified by careful measurement
Very often in the making of jewelry, it Lacquering silver and copper specimens of these angles.
is necessary to drill a hole in a stone. after cleaning will keep them bright for a The causes of these distortions are many.
Dangle earrings and bracelets, certain types long time. Most copper cleaned with cya- Often it is obvious, as when the crystal
of pendants, keyring stones, etc., are more nide will have a rosy hue for a day or so comes in contact with adjacent crystals,
attractive if drilled and suspended from a after cleaning, but on exposure to air will other rocks, etc. In these cases, however,
silver wire cemented in the hole. Caps will return to its original color. Therefore it is the crystals generally do not show crystal
work too, but often they detract from the best to wait a day or two after cleaning faces on the affected parts.—George Smith
natural beauty and symmetry of the stone. before lacquering the copper. in the Oklahoma Mineral and Gem Society's
Beads, of course, must have holes in their Metallic lacquer should be used for it is Sooner Rockologist
centers. very clear. It should be applied as a solu-
A practical method for an amateur to tion of one part lacquer to three parts thin-
drill stones is by using a hollow tube drill
powered by a small drill press capable of
ner. An atomizer or spray is the best
method to apply the lacquer. Specimens
sio»» MAKING
CUT GEMS . . . MAKE JEWELRY
operating at high speeds. Actually, drilling
is a modified form of sawing and to obtain
can be dipped in the solution and then
placed on an unpainted wood surface and fttt PIECES FOR FUN — FOR PROFIT!
Start t o d a y . . . get acquainted with
the customary 3000 surface feet per minute turned occasionally to drain and dry, which f»SC» the most thrilling hobby ever de-
speed of a saw, the drill should revolve takes only a few minutes. A second coat rue* vised — LAPIDARY. Learn to make
about 150,000 times per minute! Actually, expert, professional - type rings,
is advisable if examination with a magnify- bracelets, jewelry in your own
the best speed most amateurs can get is ing glass reveals that the surface is not en- I home. SEND (or our FREE 16-page booklet
about one-eighth of this. tirely covered. I . . . detail data from the nation's leading
The drill should be mounted vertically, Dipping realgar and orpiment specimens suppliers to the trade. NO OBLIGATION write today
and the table should be supported on an to: GRIEGER'S, 1633 E. Walnut, Pasadena 19, Calif.
in the lacquer solution prevents these speci-
adjustable spring so that it can be raised mens from crumbling, and the red and
and lowered rapidly. orange colors will be retained. Two coats
To prepare the stone, dop it securely in of lacquer are recommended. Very thin itoru. DIAMOND BLADES
the middle of a small ring. This ring should lacquer should be used on these specimens
extend about a quarter-inch above the stone. to avoid a "painted" look.—Mary P. Allen
Clamp, screw or dop the plate to the drill Heavy-Duty Super Stand.
in the Arrowhead Mineralogical Society's Sup.-Chgd. Chgd. Chgd.
press table and fill the cup created by the Arrow Points fi" $ $12.35 $11.25
ring with coarse silicon carbide grit. Mois-

SB X
• • • 17.90 16.40 14.85
ten the grit with glycerine and add a few
drops of water. CRYSTAL IDENTITY DIFFICULT 10"
12"
22^00
31.90
19.90
28.30
18.50
25.75
Start the grinder and immediately de- Classically-formed crystals are the excep- 14" 42.60 36.50 33.20
tion, not the rule, for most crystals are dis- ] (i" 49.20 43.45 39.50
press the table to take the tube out of con- 18" 69.75 59.65 54.25
tact with the stone, then let it up again as torted in one or more ways. Most common 20" 78.10 65.70 59.75
quickly as possible. Continue to work the form of distortion is over-development of 24" 92.20 82.90 75.50
one set of faces at the expense of another 30" 179.10
table up and down as fast as practicable. 36" 267.60
Be sure the grit mixture flows freely under set, producing flattened or elongated crys- «e—Send postag e—Tax in Culit'.
the tube at every stroke. Stop occasionally tals. This often leads to the erroneous de-
to stir the grit in from the outside of the scription, for example, of octahedrons
cup, and if the tube stops cutting add more (magnetite, spinel, diamond, etc.) as tabu-
grit. lar crystals.
It will take between 10 and 15 minutes When four faces of an octahedron are
to cut through a quarter-inch of agate. Of overdeveloped at the expense of the other
course diamond dust and oil will work four, the result appears, on quick examina-
much faster than the silicon carbide, but tion, to be an orthorhombic form typical of
it is rather expensive.—Wm. Aulsenbrook barite or celestite. Free Catalog shows 17 Covlngton -tfe.
vertical type grinders and polishers.
in the Evansville Lapidary Society's News A common distortion often found in ru-
Letter r _ 6 Covington Trim Saws
tile, tourmaline, stibnite and many other to choose from in latest
• • • minerals is the acicular form. This is where Free Catalog.
The seven-year job of grinding and pol- crystals appear like hair or needles. It is
ishing the 20-ton glass disc used in making caused by growth in only one direction
the 200-inch telescope mirror for the Mt. after the initial small crystal has been
Palomar Observatory required 62,000 formed.
pounds of abrasives. Five and a quarter The one thing to remember is that no
tons of glass were removed in the process. matter how badly a crystal is distorted, the
—Pseudomorph angle between two faces remains the same

Seiect any one of 7


C o v i n g t o n Slab Saws
SHOPPING FOR PRICE? from latest Free Cata-
log.
IMMEDIATE DELIVERY—PREPAID
BELL CAPS—Gilt or white plate Doien for 25c Gross $2.75
EARWIRES—Half ball with split drop. Nickel or gilt 6 pr. for 30c 12 pr. for 55c Multi - Feature Lapi-
dary Unit. Free Cat-
EARSCREWS—Flat pad for cementing. Nickel plate 6 pr. for 30c 12 pr. for 55c alog shows 8 Cov-
EARCLIPS—Cup for cementing. Nickel or gilt 6 pr. for 30c 12 pr. for 55c ington H o r i z o n t a l
models.
SWEATER GUARDS—2 clips with 1/2-inch discs complete with chain.
Gold or rhodium plate 3 sets for $1.40 6 sets for $2.55
BRACELETS-Rhodium plate. Med. link. Complete. 8-inches 6 for $1.35 12 for $2.30
CHAIN—Medium link. Rhodium or gold plate 10 feet for $1.20
BOLA SLIDES—%-inch swivel disc. Nickel or gilt... 6 for 45c 12 for 75e
BOLA TIPS-Nickel Plate and lacquered I V 4 " 12 for 75c
BOLA TIPS—Gilt. 2 " scroll pattern 12 for 50c BUILD YOUR OWN
CORDS LEATHERETTE—Brown, black, tan, gray, dark blue .6 for $1.20 12 for $2.00 LAP and save. Free
C a t a l o g shows 13
CORDS RAYON—Black, tan, wine, brown/gold combination— 6 for 45e 12 for 75c Build Your Own
CUFF LINKS—15 mm. disc for cementing. Gold or rhodium plate... 3 pr. for 85c 6 pr. for $1.50 Items.
BOW PINS—11/2" Gold or rhodium plate. Safety catch 6 for $1.00 12 for $1.75 USED BY THE U.S. GOVERNMENT
THESE PRICES ARE FOR MAIL ORDER ONLY Send for latest Catalog showing Covington,
Items are packaged in quantities listed FREE CATALOG the largest lapidary equipment line in
America. IT'S FREE.
Add 10% Fed. Tax on all items except cords. California Residents also add 4 % sales tax.
DEALERS WANTED
JEWELGEMS BY JAY O'DAY Covington Lapidary Eng., Corp.
REDLANDS D, CALIFORNIA
P. O. BOX 6 RANCHO MIRAGE, CALIFORNIA

JULY, 1 9 5 8 39
DEFECTIVE GEM SLABS the aquarium with slices of translucent FLUORITE. TOO SOFT FOR
ENHANCE HOME AQUARIUM Oregon agate showing massive white plumes. GEMS. GOOD FOR DISPLAY
Bits of delicate aquarium greenery placed
Defective gem stone slabs often present between the slices of plume concealed the Fluorite is a favorite with mineral col-
such an unusual aspect that the lapidary visible portions of the glass wall. lectors because of its attractive color range.
places them in storage, rather than discard- On the Apache tear floor, she placed hol- In crystal or massive form it is found in
ing them. Then when a visitor comes to low geodes and bits of colorful agate. In colorless, white, black, brown, rose, green,
the house, the stone is taken down, wet the foreground march a line of "unusual blue and violet. Its occurrence is wide-
with a sponge to bring out its startling pat- characters" — chalcedony roses twisted in spread throughout the world.
tern, and then returned to the closet. bizarre shapes. In composition fluorite has almost equal
The home aquarium may be the ideal When the fish were returned and the parts of calcium and fluoride, and under
place to permanently display such stones. aquarium's lights turned on, Mary Blair ultraviolet light may fluoresce a soft blue
Mary Blair of the Montebello, California, had a vivid and startling display which shade. Its luster is glassy and runs from
Mineral and Lapidary Society covered the appeared to be half fact and half fancy.— transparent to translucent. A soft stone,
bottom of her aquarium with polished clear The Braggin' Rock fluorite has a hardness of only four on
smoky Apache tears. Under water the tears • • • Mohs' scale and therefore is not suitable
appear as opaque black velvet or sparkling for jewelry.
smoky jewels, depending on the angle from MANY BENEFITS COME TO When heated, fluorite loses weight and its
which they are viewed. HOBBYIST W H O EXHIBITS color fades. Pink and green shades, when
Next step was to line the back wall of Why should hobbyists display collections heated over 212 degrees F., become highly
at shows and exhibits? Aware of the beauty phosphorescent and glow in the dark. —
in Nature, they seem impelled to share this tola Roberts in the Slover Gem and Min-
with others—to help others appreciate, un- eral Society's The Rolling Stone
RONETA — AGATES OF FIRE derstand and enjoy Nature as they find it. • • •
A rare gem to treasure for a lifetime Listed below are the important reasons MRS. VIVIENNE DOSSE
Polished to reveal fire—ready for you to for exhibiting as suggested by the Minera-
make the gemstone of your dreams • From logical Society of Southern California: WINS BITTNER TROPHY
Coon Hollow Area • Unusual coloring • Mrs. Vivienne Dosse of Fontana, Cali-
Instructions how to finish without losing 1. To attract new members. Many now
colors enclosed with each order. very adept collectors and lapidaries first fornia, won the Bittner Trophy for her
Guaranteed free of fractures. Each stone became interested in gems and minerals by thumbnail mineral exhibit at the Texas-
shows good fire. viewing a display at a show, or seeing a American Federation Gem Show at Dallas.
Slabs to make cabochons private collection. This was the trophy's first presentation.
up to 20x15 mm $5 and $10 each. Nancy Marshall of Palo Alto was awarded
Beautiful finished gems $15 and up 2. To instruct. During the course of a
Please mail remittance with order. We pay show, opportunities present themselves not the Bittner Trophy for junior division ex-
postage. only for the newer members, but for ex- hibits.
ERVIN E. SPIERS^ hibitors as well, to learn more about speci- George Ashley won a Special Trophy for
Juanita Mines and Laboratories mens. A good exhibit is invaluable to a his gem bowls, and a second Special Trophy
BLYTHE, CALIFORNIA beginner for it shows what the more ad- was given to Mrs. Bertha Merrill for her
vanced collectors have and therefore serves display of minerals from Germany.
as a guide, especially to quality collecting. • • •
Often a beginner's sense of discernibility is
enhanced by studying advanced collections. THUNDEREGG DESIGNS
3. For the pleasure involved. Exhibiting MADE IN LABORATORY
can be a great deal of fun. Some scientists believe that mineral re-
4. Pride of ownership. It is only natural agents, including salts of iron and mangan-
for collectors to take pleasure from recog- ese, and various silicates, found their way
nition and awards in open competition. into mineral jell imprisoned in cavities of
5. Development of friendships. From old rocks, to form the figures now found in
a common interest in gems and minerals thunderegg agates.
has come many lasting and valuable friend- These moss-like designs can be duplicated
ships.—M.S.S.C. Bulletin in the laboratory by dropping crystals of
• • • colored salt into a diluted solution of water-
Talc, the base for face powder, has been glass. Nature apparently dropped its various
GOING PROSPECTING? used in experimental phases of the Michigan
State University food service laboratory on
crystals into mineral jell.—Phil F. Brogan
in The Oregonian
a new potato-peeling process. High pressure • • •
WHY PRICES OF PROSPECTING steam containing either talc or rice hulls is Mark your rock hammer and chisels with
PICKS MAY GO UP! forced onto the vegetable, removing only bright paint so they can more easily be seen
the thin outer layer of the potato.—S.M.S. if mislayed in the field. Bright colors con-
Matrix trast with soil and grass.—Stone Tablet
The escalator clause in steel wages, effec-
tive this summer, will no doubt increase
steel prices. Usually, higher steel prices re-
flect immediately in higher prices on items
made of steel.
Estwing Prospecting Picks, the favorite of
most all collectors and prospectors, made of e Sce«t 'pott
good quality GUARANTEED UNBREAK- Petrified Wood. Moss Agate, Chrysocolla
ABLE steel, could logically and easily re-
flect this steel price increase. Turquoise, Jade and Jasper Jewelry
HAND MADE I N STERLING SILVER
However, to protect their customers
through the heavy demand summer months Bracelets, Rings, Necklaces, Earrings
on Estwing Picks, Grieger's, Inc., of Pasa^ and Brooches
dena, California, are offering a sporting
proposition. Will pick prices go up? If you SPECIALLY SELECTED STONES WITH
think so, don't get caught with the price ups CHOICE COLORS AND PICTURES
Grieger's will protect the present price of
$4.48 all through the summer, until Septem- Write for Folder With Prices
ber 30. Order today, only $4.48, and you'll
be billed for the postage. ELLIOTT'S GEfn SHOP
Grieger's are distributors with a good 235 East Seaside Blvd. Long Beach 1, California
stock. DEALERS: Send for dealer infor- Across from West End of Municipal
mation. ACT NOW. Address GRIEGER'S, Auditorium Grounds
1633 E. Walnut, Pasadena 15, California. Hours 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Daily Except Monday

40 DESERT MAGAZINE
An early description of the rumble ma-
AMATEUR GEM CUTTER
By Dr. H. C. DAKE, Editor -of The Mineralogist
chine reads as follows, taken from an old
work printed in London in 1850: "This is
a contrivance sometimes used for polishing
small articles, like rough gems, principally
by their attrition against each other. The
We have often called attention to the To the experienced eye, stones in this class rumble is a cylindrical vessel with a side
fact that overall brilliance or "life" in any are instantly noted, but to the lay eye they door for the introduction of the work and
facet cut gem material is governed and get by because they still show a reasonable the abrasive, and is generally made to re-
limited directly by inherent optical proper- amount of brilliance and fire, enough to volve as a churn by a winch handle or
ties—-notably its index of refraction. satisfy the lay customer and still give him pulley."
Without going into a discussion of optical a "big" stone. In its industrial uses the rumble barrel
properties, attention may be called to the No matter how much paper work in also found use in polishing lead shot, clean-
following facts, long known to experienced mathematics the gem cutter may do, the ing rust from cannon balls, polishing bone
facet cutters, when dealing with gem ma- problem still resolves itself into the three buttons with Trent sand, etc.
terials having a low index of refraction. main choices referred to here. Seemingly the lapidary industry had for-
Let us take quartz, topaz, and beryl as * * * • gotten the utility of this contrivance for
typical examples in this class. Scarabs made of hard clay or steatite many decades, until its recent revival.
The facet cutter has three main choices with a vitreous glaze probably were the
with this material: (1) crown and pavilion first seals used by man. The kings of the
angles may be selected to give the finished fourth dynasty 5000 years ago used scarabs
gem a "live" and sparkling table, but the carved of softer minerals. The Greeks,
remainder of the crown facets will be much later, cut scarabs from the harder
"dead"; (2) crown and pavilion angles may gem minerals, often using carnelian agate.
be selected to bring out life and brilliance The engraving seen on scarabs usually is
in the crown facets, but the table will ap- of archaic work, representing a mythologi-
pear dead, especially when the gem is cal event of some kind. Early Assyrian
viewed directly from above. In this style- scarabs were cut in hard stone, rock crystal,
of cut, the table will have what is often green jasper, carnelian and other hard semi- BUY THE BEST
termed a "well"—something like looking precious gem minerals. The Egyptians often
down into a dark well; (!) Crown and engraved upon the gold bezels of rings, but FOR LESS
pavilion angles may be selected which are the art usually is rather crude. The scarabs Congo Dia Blades — Sizes
in between the above, a compromise we are of further interest to mineral collectors Range from 4" to 24" in
may say, where the table will not appear in that they offer proof that minerals played Light, Standard, Heavy
as a well, nor will the crown facets appear an important and useful role in the lives and Extra Heavy duty.
as good as in the first style cut. The com- of the ancient peoples.
promise style cut is the usual standard * * *
selected for commercial stones in this class. Highland
The gem cutter will find various angles Gem quality tourmaline free of all flaws Park
given for these gem materials by different and suitable for facet cutting is by no means Trim Saws
writers. All of them may be regarded as common material, and generally can not be C o m p a c t and
correct for obvious reasons as stated here. had at a low price. Tourmaline very often rugged for long
This may be easily proven by any gem occurs in good quality so far as color is lasting service.
cutter, and it serves as a most interesting concerned, but all too often the crystal is
found shot full of flaws. E-4 Trim Saw
experiment, especially when large size gems
are cut (over 10 carats each) u-ing the Materials unsuited for facet cutting fre-
three gem materials referred to uere, and quently can be cut cabochon with good ef- A Leader
cutting one stone in each class tor a total fect. Small bicolored crystals, where the
of nine all approximately the same size colors meet in such a position as to permit In Its Field
brilliant style cuts. finishing a cabochon showing equal portions Highland Park Power-feed
Some years ago a number of amateur of color, are especially attractive. Ordinary Slab Saws. Sizes range
facet cutters carried out experiments along flaws in the material do not detract from from 12" to 24". Metal
this line. The results were most startling the appearance of the finished stone so long or Lucite hood.
when all the stones were lined up for close as the tourmaline is of reasonably good
comparison. One of the cutters took sev- color.
eral of the stones (all colorless) to a num- Some types of green tourmaline exhibit a
ber of jewelers for "identification." The fibrous structure, and this material even
identifications made by the innocent jewelers when flawed will frequently yield choice Highland Park Combination Unit
proved most illuminating, and, of course, cabochon stones which present a cat's-eye Available in all sizes. Perfect Combination
were wholly different and even included effect. In addition to the various styles of Unit for Lapidary work. Handles sawing,
grinding, sanding and polishing. Excep-
"colorless sapphire." cabochon stones which can be cut from tionally quiet operation.
What is said here does not necessarily flawed tourmaline, the rough angular frag-
apply to colored gems. For example, when ments often can be worked into presentable
dealing with well-colored amethyst, beryl material by merely smoothing and polish-
or topaz, disregard angles and refractive ing. These angular polished fragments can
index, and cut for best color alone. Ame- be drilled and used in necklaces and other
thyst often is found with the best color in types of mountings.
certain areas, or a good single color "patch." * * *
In these cases the gem is so oriented the The present popularity of the tumbling
best color will appear down low in the barrel for polishing rough gem masses is K-lll Combination Unit
pavilion, and not up high in the crown not at all a new idea in the lapidary field.
portion. In short, colored gems may be 1
In some 100-year-old works on lapidary Arbors of all sizes — Tumblers, two
treated in a wholly different manner. -technique we read of similar equipment. models. Wet and dry belt sanders—
In the case of gem materials having a These early tumblers had been in use Lapidary units in two different sizes.
much higher index of refraction, the re- for centuries. They were called rumblers 32 MODELS TO CHOOSE PROM
quirements are not so close, for here, even or shaking machines, but all of them were The most complete line of lapidary machin-
though incorrect angles and proportions cylindrical in shape, almost exactly like ery offered by any manufacturer. See these
may be selected, we will still have a pre- those ij) wide, use today. In most cases the at your local Highland Park dealer or write
for free literature.
sentable finished gem. This would not be cylinder was revolved in a normal manner,
possible in dealing with materials in the hand operated by a winch handle or pulley. A Product of
lower index class. For example, a diamond But in some cases it was operated endways,
may be cut to give the greatest diameter
"spread." This w^ll make the stone appear
hence the term shaking machine. Some
abrasive, usually fine sand or fine emery,
HIGHLAND PARK
larger than if cut to standard commercial
proportions and angles. The "spread" or
"fish eye' diamond, as it is termed in the
was fed in with the work. Emery, an im-
pure corundum found in Nature, was one
of the chief abrasives used in the lapidary
MANUFACTURING CO.
trade, will have a thickness, measured from industry for many centuries prior to the
1009-1011 Mission Street
the table top to the apex of the pavilion, introduction of modern silicon carbide, first South Pasadena, California
less than that of the standard brilliant cut. produced some 60 years ago.

JULY, 1958 41
By RANDALL HENDERSON

7 HIS IS WRITTEN early in June, and the Smoke


Tree branches are carrying great plumes of purple
blossoms. When the Smoke Tree blooms we know
that summer is here—and to those of us who have spent
public for purposes of recreational, scenic, scientific and
educational use—but would be preserved as areas where
the rights of the natural world would have precedence over
the privileges of human beings.
many summers on this land of high temperatures that is There isn't much virgin wilderness left in the United
no great hardship, despite the contrary notion which pre- States and if any of it is to be saved for the benefit of
vails among tenderfeet. ourselves and future generations of Americans we should
Summer is the time when the native plants and shrubs lose no time in protecting it.
of this desert land become more or less dormant. The Dr. J. H. Rush in his recent book The Dawn of Life
annuals dry up and blow away, after having taken the commented on the critical problem that confronts civilized
precaution to produce and broadcast a crop of seeds for man: "When man obliterates the wilderness he repudiates
next year's flowering, and the perennials conserve their the evolutionary process that put him on this planet. In
moisture for survival in a period when rainfall is very a deeply terrifying sense, man is on his own."
uncertain. * * *
We humans are intruders in this arid land, and the
grace with which we accept the rigors of drouth and heat, Everett Ruess, young poet-artist of the desert wilder-
depends, like the perennial shrubs and trees, very largely ness, once wrote in a letter to a friend: "It is not that I
on the inner resources we have at our command. Active am unable to enjoy companionship or unable to adapt
minds and busy hands seldom find the heat oppressive. myself to other people . . . but I have found it easier
But it helps to drink plenty of water—and that is the one and more adventurous to face situations alone. There is
big advantage which human beings have over other forms a splendid freedom in solitude, and after all, it is for
of life on the desert. If we use our God-given intelligence solitude that I go to the mountains and desert, not for
we need never suffer from lack of water. And that is im- companionship. In solitude I can bare my soul to the
portant, for nine times out of ten that "tired feeling" mountains unabashed. I can work or think, act or recline
which is so common a complaint in summer time is due at my whim, and nothing stands between me and the wild.
to dehydration. Remember this, that your thirst is never Then on occasion, I am grateful for what unusual and
an accurate gauge of the water needed to maintain your fine personalities I may encounter by chance, but I have
body. Drink plenty of water! learned not to look too avidly for them."

Recently, George F. Miller, Boy Scout executive of Recently a scientist was quoted in the newspapers:
Phoenix, told the Rotary club: "Boys need the solitude "By 1968 man will be able to regulate the world's
of the wilderness to help them cope with the hysteria and weather."
fear which prevails so widely in our complex society of I hope he is wrong. Human beings are not ready for
today . . . they need wholesome adventure and if it isn't that yet. The suggestion brings to mind some terrifying
provided in a healthful environment they will seek it to questions: Who is to control the weather? And for whose
no good end elsewhere." benefit? If the Russians do not like Americans, are they
And as every youth leader knows, there is no more to have the power to scourge our land with drouth? Or
wholesome environment than the woods, the canyons and drown us like rats? Or vice versa? Weather control as
desert and mountain terrain of the virgin areas in our a weapon of warfare could become more catastrophic
country. than hydrogen bombs, or even biological warfare.
That is an added reason why you and I, and all Human beings have not yet climbed far enough up the
parents and adults who would like to contribute to the ladder of evolution to be given so much power.
welfare of our own and future generations of children I am all for science—for the scientists are the great
should give what support we can to the Wilderness Bill truth-seekers of this earth. But too much emphasis has
now pending in Congress (S. 1176 and H.R. 500). been given to the physical sciences. Our greatest need
This measure is designed to preserve certain areas of at this stage of evolution is a better understanding of
our national park and national forest lands in their human nature—the humanities. It is more important just
primeval condition, where the natural balance of plant and now that we learn how to control human hatred, selfish-
wildlife will be maintained undisturbed by commercial ness, intolerance and vanity than that we learn to control
exploitation. These lands would remain accessible to the the weather.

42 DESERT MAGAZINE
having traveled over 150,000 miles in
the last dozen years to interview the
old-timers she writes about, often mak-
ing long journeys over unimproved and
uncharted trails to reach a miner's
MILLER WRITES GEOLOGICAL their philosophies of life, their work remote shack. To check the accuracy
HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA and their avocations that Miss Mur- of dates and names she delved into old
California is a geological wonder- barger has devoted her latest book, a newspaper files and such records as
land. The state contains excellent ex- delightful volume with the title Sover- are available at libraries and county
amples of most of the world's major eigns of the Sage. seats.
types of physical features. The high Each of the 50 chapters is a com- Miss Murbarger's previous book,
and low deserts, Death Valley, the plete story in itself — stories that Ghosts of the Glory Trail, devoted
Sierra Nevadas, Yosemite, the Great sparkle with human interest and hu- mostly to the ghost towns of the Great
Central Valley and California's scenic mor. There are the Mantles, Charlie
coast line are only a few of the state's Basin region, is now in its third print-
and Evelyn, whose home for 32 years ing, and it is safe to predict that the
outstanding natural features. has been a cabin in a remote valley
Now available to the reader is Wil- along the Yampa River in Utah; Ed. new volume, devoted largely to char-
liam J. Miller's California Through Smith, the Nevada prospector who acters still living, will have a wider dis-
the Ages—The Geological Story of a spent most of his life mining gold so tribution even than the former book.
Great State. Essentially a primer on that he might endow a home for This is a western book unique in
elementary geology, the amateur will crippled children; the Mormon boys many respects, spontaneous and re-
find in this volume an accurate guide who stole the cannon at old Fort Doug- freshing. It is about life in a land
certain to enhance vacation trips and las to prove they were not as stupid where many city dwellers imagine they
weekend outings. as the soldiers accused them of being; would like to live—and yet never have
Dr. Miller is the author of several the mystery man of California's Mul- the opportunity to do so.
textbooks on geology, and before his let Island in Salton Sea. Published by Desert Magazine Press,
retirement taught this subject at sev-
eral major universities. He is a native Much of this material appears in Palm Desert, 384 pages, 70 halftone
of California. print for the first time, the author pictures, 8 pages of maps, index. $6.00.
In this text, the emphasis is on the
succession of geological events—geo-
logical history — as recorded in the Here is the story of GEORSIE WHITE, famous river pilot
rocks.
Published by Westemlore Press; 108
illustrations and maps; index; 264
pages; $6.50.
• • •
ABOUT THOSE WHO LIVE Written by Rose Marie DeRoss, Georgie White's sister
IN THE LAND OF THE SAGE
Nell Murbarger writes about people This is a book of adventure—the thrilling sport of running
who seldom are in the newspaper
headlines. As a roving reporter of the the white water rapids of Grand Canyon, Cataract Canyon
desert, her beat is the remote frontier and other turbulent streams of western United States.
of the Intermountain West and her
subjects are mining men and prospec- Year after year Georgie White operates her share-the-
tors, courageous women, ranchers, expense expeditions in rubber rafts which reduce the hazards
homesteaders, scientists, traders, en-
gineers and buckeroos. to a minimum—she has never yet lost a passenger—and makes
It is to these people, their problems, it possible for large parties of voyagers to camp and enjoy the
scenic canyon country of the West.
Books reviewed on this page are
available at Desert Crafts Shop
Palm Desert, California
Mrs. DeRoss has related the day by day experience of a
Add four percent sales tax on orders passenger on one of these trips—how one feels to ride through
to be sent to California tumbling cascades, the fun of the campfire in the evening, the
Write for complete catalog of
Southwestern books delight of taking pictures in the gorgeous canyons, and the pre-
cautions which insure security for the "river rats" on such an
DESERT BEST SELLER LIST* adventure.
1. Sovereigns of the Sage
Nell Murbarger $6.00 Published with maps, pictures and paper cover.
2. Ghosts of the Glory Trail
Nell Murbarger $5.75
3. Salton Sea Story $2.00 postpaid
Helen Burns $1.00
4. On the Trail of Pegleg Smith's California buyers add 4% sales tax
Lost Gold
J. Wilson McKenney $1.50
5. Desert Wild Flowers
Edmund C. Jaeger $5.00
DESERT MAGAZINE BOOK SHOP
*Based on May sales by Palm Desert, California
Desert Magazine Bookshop

JULY, 1958 43
Grandmother . . .
"This is my grandmother, Mrs. Minnie
Cook who is 73 years old and has lived in
the Southwest all her life. When I showed
her this photograph she said 'well, it's a
pretty good picture of the lamp!'" That is
the story behind this month's winning pho-
tograph by L. D. Schooler of Blythe, Cali-
fornia. Camera data: 21/4x31/4 Graphic; 1/25
sec. at f. 22; panatomic X sheet film. Schooler
used an M-2 flashbulb behind the lamp for
this unusual lighting effect.

Pictures of
the Month

Millstones
Gene Helland of Ce-
dar City, Utah, was
awarded second prize
this month for this pho-
tograph of two massive
millstones. Helland
took this picture with a
camera setting of 1/50
second at f. 22.

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