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SEPTEMBER, 1979 $1.

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MAGAZINE OF THE SOUTHWEST


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ON THE WEST

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4
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WESTERN ART
NOTES PRINTS
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AND
A LARGE
ASSORTMENT OF
CURRENT AND
OLD BACK ISSUES

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WILLIAM and JOY KNYVETT
Co-Publishers/ Editors

GEORGE BRAGA, Art Director


SHARLENE KNYVETT, Art Department
MARY FRANCES STRONG, Field Trip Editor
K. L. BOYNTON, Naturalist

Color Separations by (USPS 154-940)


Henry Color Service Volume 42, Number 9 SEPTEMBER 1979
Lithographed by
Wolfer Printing Company, Inc.

Available in Microfilm by
Xerox University Microfilms

CONTENTS
F E A T U RES

HISTORIC CEDAR CITY 8 Mary Frances Strong

IDYLLWILD/SANJACINTO MOUNTAINS 12 Bill Jennings

MESCAL BAJ ADA 16 Dick Bloomquist

ARCHEOLOCICAL STUDIES OF DESERT AREAS BY BLM 20 Tom Evans

HARQUA HALA, ARIZONA 24 James R. Mitchell

A CARNIVOROUS PLANT IN THE MOJ AVE DESERT 28 Wayne P. Armstrong

FULL CIRCLE 32 R. C. Starling, Jr.

CALIFORNIA'S KANGAROO RATS 34 Jack Delaney

SOUTH FORK OF BOW Wl LLOW CANYON 38 Dick Bloomquist

WHAT'S COOKINC ON THE DESERT? APPLES! 40 Stella Hughes

D E P A R T M E N T S

A PEEK IN THE PUBLISHER'S POKE 4 Bill Jennings

NEW BOOKS FOR DESERT READERS 6 Book Reviews

THE COVER:
TRADING POST 42 Classified Listings
Beautiful Mooney Falls on
Havasu Creek, Grand Can-
yon, Arizona. Photo by Jona- BOOKS OF THE WEST 44 Mail Order Items
than Berman, Sky Forest,
California.
LETTERS TO THE EDITOR 47 Readers' Comments

CALENDAR OF WESTERN EVENTS 47 Club Activities

EDITORIAL, CIRCULATION AND ADVERTISING OFFICES: 74-425 old addresses with zip codes. DESERT Magazine is published monthly.
Highway 111, P. 0 . Box 1318, Palm Desert, California 92260. Telephone Second class postage paid at Palm Desert, California and at additional
Area Code 714 346-8144. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: United States and pos- mailing offices under Act of March 3, 1879. Contents copyrighted 1979 by
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add $2.00 U. S. currency for each year. See Subscription Order Form in secured in writing. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs will not be
this issue. Allow five weeks for change of address and send both new and returned unless accompanied by self-addressed, stamped envelope.

Desert/September 1979
in the
publisher's
yoke
This month, author Bill Jennings
writes a special tribute to one of
our retiring state park rangers.

H M E MAN who perhaps more than any


4 other has symbolized the patient,
I friendly, helpful and knowledgeable
state park ranger for the past 20 years
has retired at Anza Borrego Desert State (714) 767-5311. If there is enough de- George and his very special partner, wife
Park. Somehow, the place won't seem mand, the park's semi-official historian, Jean, plan to remain deep in the heart of
the same to many of us. retired reporter Joe Stone, will whomp the park's south half, making their home
It's unfair to the rest of the ranger one up, with my dubious help, and the in a modestly-sized masonry block house
force there and statewide to say that park will mail it out for a contribution to that is filled with great hospitality. This
George Leetch's departure after a the visitor center fund. is at Canebrake, one of the few enclaves
30-year career will cause a permanent What I'm writing here is about a of private land south of Scissors
loss. After all, the park hasn't changed. friendship nearly as long, convoluted Crossing.
It is still nearly 600,000 acres of sheer and as interesting as George's tenure in Right now they are tailing off a Can-
beauty, interspersed here and there with the park family, so you will have to par- adian Rockies vacation and I'm sure that
utter magnificence. There remains don me if this guest Poke gets a little George is uncomfortable amidst all that
Maurice H. (call me Bud) Getty, area or personal. water and summer greenery, yearning
park manager and in his own amiable Because George was as much of great for some sunbaked sand, parched smoke
and highly professional way Bud is Mr. service to me, a desert varnished old va- trees and a lizard or two in place of the
Park as much as George, plus a staff of grant, as he was to the newest neophyte moose, mountain goats, bighorns and
excellent people. of off-freeway travel, and just as cour- the botanical extravaganza they're en-
But there is a void that can't be filled, teous, even when I did dumb things you joying.
only worked around and adjusted to. could overlook in a beginner but never They'll make up for it, because as soon
George Leetch was the ranger's ranger forgive from a veteran. As getting stuck, as they unpack their mildewed khakis
as well as the visitor's ranger. Therefore or getting stuck a second time, or a third, and renew their suntans they'll be off to
there won't be much petty jealousy or and so on. deepest Baja California, their second
vanity, wounded egos and bruised George has a middle name that you home, winter and summer.
facades when writers say nice things can get from Dora, or Bud, or Joe, but it They'll stop off between San Felipe
about George. should have been his motto: "May I be and Puertocito along the Sea of Cortez to
Leetch joined the friendly parks of service?" visit Frank and Mary Fairchild, another
system in 1958, serving a brief appren- Service has been the key word that veteran Anza-Borrego official couple of
ticeship at Mt. San Jacinto and Salton turned him on for 31 years. He has years past. Come to think of it, other
Sea before beginning a remarkable love worked a 40-hour week of course, as any writers said the same irreplaceable
affair with Anza-Borrego in 1959. He good loyal state employee, but he never things about Frank when he retired, and
was separated from the desert empire remembered to turn off his mental radio the parks, beaches, historic sites and the
only briefly, from 1969 through the early after going out of service at the end of paperwork haven't languished. Maybe
1970s when he sojourned briefly at Mit- the work day. we can survive somewhat without
chell Caverns and the San Diego Many of his brightest accomplish- George, too.
beaches. ments occurred on days off, after hours, Leetch had a colorful background to
If you want to read an official biogra- on compensated time off, vacations, and qualify as a ranger, including heavy-
phy, call Dora Teale at the park office, probably will continue to do so, because weight boxing, restaurant running and
Desert/September 1979
l-itteen years ago, when George was rejoined the Fairchilds at Mitchell

BACK ISSU
managing his Gorgeous Gorge at Split Caverns but it turned into tragedy when
Mountain in the Anza-Borrego Desert Dorothy became ill and died in a Needles
State Park, his friend, Hemet photogra- hospital. George transferred to the San

BARGAINS
pher, Walt Frisbie, made this picture for Diego beaches where a little luck intro-
the Riverside Press-Enterprise. The hair duced him to the widow of a longtime
is a little grayer; George sometimes National Park Service ranger and in due
wears glasses now; the park has retired time, George and his new wife, J ean, re-
the palm-thatched trailer residence- turned to Anza-Borrego. ODDS AND ENDS
ranger station, but George is still trim in This time it was for keeps, as far as
the waist. Miscellaneous Copies
George's 30-plus years park career was
five years in the Army. He was a profes- concerned. They lived for a time in from 1959 to 1965
sional boxer in the late 1930s until he Jean's sleek travel trailer at Butterfield, Package of 10
entered the Army in 1940 for that so- near George's new assignment in Blair

3
$000
called one-year at $21 a month engage- Valley. The last several years of his ten-
ment some of us well recall. ure—before the Big Retirement Party at
During the war George married Doro- the Borrego Palm Canyon picnic grounds
thy Beam, daughter of China mission- on June 16—was the Carrizo Corridor-
aries, and perhaps that decided him to Palm Spring sector of the Vallecito Wash No selections available
abandon his boxing career, despite 30 drainage centered around Canebrake.
professional bouts, some with title con- George is an infrequent contributor to VOLUMES FOR YEARS
tenders, and a winning percentage. this and other desert-oriented publica-
After the war, George garnered a de- tions and now, Editor-Publisher Bill
1966*1974
gree in sociology at the University of Knyvett has hopes that future issues will
California at Santa Barbara and knocked feature his by-line. 11 issues only
around in several short-term jobs before Maybe. But we'll bet George will still
he joined the parks system in 1958. be pretty busy making rescues and en-
All was prelude until George and tertaining park visitors with his own
Dorothy drew an assignment to the version of campfire talks on the wide
Anza-Borrego version of Siberia, as front porch of his little house.
some thought. They moved into the little It's all history now, George's long love EACH
travel trailer under the palm-thatched affair with Anza-Borrego, at least the of-
ramada at Split Mountain, succeeding ficial part, but I suspect they'll never get
COMPLETE VOLUMES
another park giant, Doug Bryce. Come to Jean and George out of the park, or the
think of it, maybe all the AB rangers are park out of them, besides, who would FOR YEARS
legendary characters, which is the mys- try? 1967*1968*1970
terious ingredient in the successful for- There may be marriages made in
mula that makes the California State heaven as the script writers grind it out,
1971 • 1972* 1973
Park System perhaps the best in the but there aren't many careers made in and 1975
world. sand, or love affairs in ocotillo and

$coo
At the Split, George and Dorothy be-
came a living legend, enhanced by the
third member of the little family, a tiny
squirrel monkey whose name I have
carefully forgotten over the years but
which left scars I will bear to my grave.
jumping cholla.

FIRST CLASS MAIL-ORDER


PHOTO DEVELOPING
Kodacolor and Fujicolor
• ONLY

5
COMPLETE
EACH

Print Film Developing Specialists


The Leetch regime lasted 10 years,
resulting in a semi-permanent ephithet
Normal 12 exposure roll
With New Roll of Film
$2.50
$3.80
1976 • 1977 • 1978
for the place, "George's Gorgeous VOLUMES
Gorge." ONLY
He won the Medal of Valor, Califor- Film returned by first class

$coo
6
nia's highest award to a state employee, mail for FAST service.
Send for price list.
for a falling-rock punctuated rescue of
bewildered campers trapped in the fault
line confines of the canyon during a Your Reliable EACH
major earthquake in 1968. He also guid- Mail Photofinisher
ed the unwary out of the rocky trap sev-
Send check or money order to
eral times during spring and summer Market Basket Photo Service DESERT MAGAZINE
flash floods. P. O. Box 2830,1544 Frazee Road P. O. Box 1318
San Diego, California 92112 Palm Desert, Calif. 92260
After the Split, George and Dorothy
Desert/September 1979
tionary highway down the 1,000-mile
CROCHETED length of the Baja California peninsula.
TAPESTRY

New and simple tech- *Books So it's a great relief to be able to re-
commend a new one, by a writer equally

for
nique in basic double
crochet creates this
new to the Baja fraternity, Alaska Jim
12"x40" Thunderbird Hunter. In that inconsistency, Hunter
tapestry.
offers a new look at and a new approach
Pattern requires four
skeins of yarn and a
size " H " crochet hook.
Desert to the travel Baja cult, off the main road.
Hunter's offbeat guidebook is valu-

"Readers
Shown in red and able for many reasons, not the least
black on white, or you
may select from other being the most accurate and least con-
colors suggested. fusing mileage guides in recent years, as
VJ RY BILL
BY Rll I .1ENNI
JENNINGS
Send $3.50 (special well as his instinctive regard for the
price) for complete people of the region, the people who
istep-by-step instruc-
All books reviewed are available through the either make or break your trip south.
tions. Other patterns
Desert Magazine Book Shop. Please add 50c
available. Hunter is assisted greatly by the fine
per total order for handling and California
residents must include 6% state sales tax. photography of Robert Western, who
Woven Stitch Crochet
C P.O. Box 212 also contributed an excellent chapter on
til Alamogordo,
'Hopi" Thunderbird New Mexico 88310 camera care and general photography,

Offbeat Baja the best short synopsis on the subject for


the Baja area we have ever read.
Offbeat Baja has only one drawback
for oldtime guidebook readers —and
GENUINE users—one that most of his predecessors
had also. The book will not lay flat on the
DOMESTICATED seat, open to that vital page covering the
GOLDEN CHIA SEEDS particularly rough and steep stretch of
(SALVIA COILUMBARIAE) rock and cholla you're navigating. Some-
day, somebody will print one with a
OFFBEAT BAJ A spiral or plastic ring binding as the fa-
Sufficient for four 50-foot rows. Complete
instructions. Packet: $2.00. By Jim Hunter mous Anza-Borrego Desert Guidebook, a
vital feature for the really working mo-
HARRISON DOYLE Over the years, there have been torist who may not have a handy naviga-
P. 0.1)0x785 tor sitting beside him.
enough Baja "guidebooks" to pave
Vista, California 92083
those non-existant shoulders on the Otherwise, Offbeat Baja is the best. It
narrow ribbon of Mexico 1, the revolu- is as current as the several thousand
miles of unpaved, ungraded Baja roads
that really permit you to see the penin-
sula, not just the plastic places springing
up along Mexico 1. Hunter makes a point
ISBN 0-87004-265-3 Paperbound
that many of the old places are still
Approximately 160 Pages
there, perhaps better than ever, and you
Many Photographs $4.95
can get their pretty easily, particularly if
-FROMPICKTOPOWDCK-
you follow his road-condition grading
Like much of Western history, Telluride's system carefully. It fails only in that
Richard L. and luntnne Fetter melodramatic character emerges from the ex- some of the four-wheel-drive categories
aggerated scale of people and events that
he uses fail to consider those ubiquitous
made up its day. Here were men blasting a rail-
road out of solid rock, Big Billy the kindhearted
Baja bugs or other rebuilt lightweights
madam, a world's first in power generation, a that can generally do anything a four-
strike that angered the nation, and a daring wheeler can do except the deepest sand
bank robbery by a kid named Butch Cassidy or the rockiest arroyo.
and a group called the Wild Bunch. Telluride
has not become a museum. Telluride today is The writer here would add one item of
very much alive, and as fine a living reminder of equipment to the many advisories
the Old West as one can find. Hunter includes. Take a case or two of
cheap 30-weight motor oil for trading
and friendship purposes. Almost invari-
The CAXTON PRINTERS, Ltd. ably those Mexican truckers you see
P.O. Box 700 broken down on the side or in the middle
Caldwell, Idaho 83605 of the so-called road need oil and you'll
get the best road advice or general as-

Desert/September 1979
sistance available if you have a quart or Maria Montoya was born in the little
two to hand them.
Hunter adds a section for motorcylists,
who have rights, too, although I would
village by the Rio Grande, some 20 miles
north of Santa Fe early in 1887. The only
record is her baptism, April 5. She was
LflKE POWELL
caution cyclists to carry plenty of water, married in 1904, her first husband being
DFF-SEHSOIl IS JUST US
even more than Hunter recommends,
because you can get dehydrated and
J ulian Martinez, himself a major force in
the re-emergence of San lldefonso artu-
BEAUTIFUL
overly sunburned more quickly on a two- culture.
It's the greatest for summer family fun.
wheeler than any other way, and chances Maria and others of her tribe gained Wahweap, Bullfrog and Hite resorts/marinas
are you won't even know it. recognition for their pottery the first are open year around, but you really should
All in all, an excellent guide, up-to- time at the St. Louis fair in 1904—the try us in the spring, fall and winter...
date, as much as you can be because Louisiana Purchase Exposition. They
Baja road conditions change overnight. had been hired to perform Pueblo dances Not only for moderate temperatures,[better
Hunter offers an excellent directory to but Maria and some of the other teenage fishing and less crowded conditions, but for
the Offbeat Baja you should visit, and is women also made pots as a sort of side-
helpful to the Turista Baja as well.
Paperback, 156 pages, several basic
line. There was instant fame!
Their visit perhaps awakened public
Savings to
maps, many excellent photographs, interest in their work; it wasn't the only
$5.95. attention, not even the most important
breakthrough. After all, the Pueblo peo-
ple, just as California's Cahuilla, have
been making pots as utilitarian home-
making equipment for centuries.
The impetus for Pueblo pottery as art
form, a very lucrative tribal industry,
came somewhat after St. Louis, in 1907,
when Dr. Edgar L. Hewett led " d i g s " in
prehistoric Pueblo sites on the Pajoro
Plateau, near the present-day site of Los
Alamos. Maria's first husband, Julian,
was among the workers.
They uncovered bits — sherds — of
MARIA ancient decorated pottery, primarily
polychrome. Hewett, through Julian,
By Richard L. Spivey asked Maria if she could reproduce any
of this work. The success was instant,
A book on Pueblo pottery, specifically and the work even better than the origi-
San lldefonso, that matches the beauty, nal. Hewett bought the first pieces and
the simplicity and the skill of that cera- ordered more.
mic itself. Over the next 70 years, Maria's aim
The title pays tribute to perhaps the was to re-establish an old Pueblo, par-
greatest — or at least best known San ticularly a Tewa, art form, not just as
lldefonso artisan, Maria Montoya Marti- personal gain for herself and family, but
nez, but the book is more than a eulogy for the entire group. She has taught
for this remarkable woman, still, at 90, children, grandchildren and now great-
the force and the power of the famed grandchildren. Her signed works may
Pueblo pottery movement of the past 75 have been the product of several family
years. She has been producing that long members.
herself, but as the author says, the pot-
tery is a mutual product and she is per-
There are imitators, of course, but
there are also those who have improved
Send color and rale brochures on
Wahweap, Bullfrog and Hite resorts/marinas
1
haps the prime mover, but perhaps not. the form, just as Maria did with the work Name.
I
Illustrations, mainly by Jerry Jacka, of her aunts and the ancients. Address _
I
are up to the quality of the pottery, and Values today are difficult to estimate. City - State.
I
the production of this book, its type- A Maria pot is worth whatever you have, I
setting, layout, design and overall effect, you see. She has sold pieces for 50 cents I
are as good as the other ingredients. and for several thousand dollars. Each is Lake Powell Resorts B marinas DM
Box 29040, Phoenix, AZ 8503B
I
There have been many books on Indian worth infinitely more than its purchase
artistry, and there will be many more, price to its owner. In spectacular hard
New central reservations system: I
but few, if any, will be up to the standard cover, coffee table size, many color/
West of Mississippi call toll-free 1-800-528-6154.
In Arizona, call (602) 264-8466.
I
of this product. black-white photos, 138 pages, $27.50.
J
Desert/September 1979
The Historic Mormon Church in downtown Cedar City is beautiful to behold. Built of Cedar City is located at the base of a
native rocks, it contains many outstanding copper specimens that will quicken the series of mountains and plateaus which
heart-beat of a rock collector. march across Eastern Utah and culmi-
nate in the mighty Rocky Mountains of
Colorado. The diversity of Utah's top-
ography has led to its division into eight
regions. Each has been named to ap-
propriately characterize its individual at-
tributes. Cedar City lies within "Color
Country" — certainly a fitting title for
Utah's southwestern corner.
Whether your interests are sightsee-
ing, camping, rockhounding, fishing,
exploring colorful National Parks or vis-
iting geological and historic sites, you
will find them all within a 40-mile radius
of Cedar City. In this day of gasoline
shortages and high cost thereof, a vaca-
tion spent in a central location offers
many advantages.
by MARY FRANCES STRONG Known as an important mining center While Cedar City has forged ahead
photos by Jerry Strong and rich in history; this 127-year-old into the 20th Century, the " o l d " has
town has become the hub of one of the been protected and preserved. All the

B
URINC OUR TRAVELS through the state's finest outdoor recreation areas. modern services deemed so necessary
Southwest, any "town stops" are What we had planned as an overnight today rub elbows with the past. A fine
usually quick overnighters for re- stop stretched into more than a week. college not only teaches but provides
stocking the larder and doing the laun- Yet, we had barely skimmed the surface residents and tourists alike exposure to
dry. Cedar City, in Southern Utah, of recreational possibilities in this fas- the Arts. Each year, an outstanding
proved to be an exception to this rule. cinating region. Shakespearean Drama Festival is held
Desert/ September 1979
during July and August which attracts
visitors from all over the country. Write
the Chamber of Commerce for a program
of schedule and dates.
Before exploring the Cedar City Re-
gion, stop by the Chamber's Visitor Cen-
ter. You will find it has a large variety of
free brochures on all the area's recrea-
tional possibilities. The Bureau of Land
Management office also has free bro-
chures, maps and pamphlets, as well as
several books of interest. We found both
their staffs very friendly and helpful.
Downtown Park not only houses the
Visitor Center, but offers a shady rest-
ing place and picnic area. Across the
street, the attractive, old Union Pacific
Railroad Depot sits in retirement. Dur-
ing the 1920s and '30s, thousands of
tourists disembarked here, then boarded
buses for a tour of a brilliantly-colored,
sandstone amphitheater high on the
Markagunt Pleateau. We know the area
today as Cedar Breaks National
Monument.
The popularity of this service almost
ceased in the late 1930s when a safe road
was built to accommodate the burgeon-
ing "automobile a g e . " Fortunately, • •-, . . . . ' . •

when the railroad abandoned the spur,


the old station was preserved. There is The Iron Mission Museum contains one of the finest antique wagon collections in
an effort to possibly connect it to an arts the country. This is an old Conestoga—the original "motor home." Our favorite
and crafts center. vehicle was the early-day milk delivery wagon. Some of our readers are sure to re-
member similar wagons since horses were used for years following the automobile.
You will enjoy seeing and photograph-
ing the beautiful LDS Chapel in the
downtown area. It is built of native
stones — many of which are colorful
copper specimens. The location of the
church is shown as No. 18 on the ac-
companying Cedar City map.
A Short distance north of the Visitor
Center is Iron Mission State Park. It
houses one of the finest, old-time wagon
collections in the country. We found it
fascinating to browse through this ex-
cellent assemblage of so many types of
wagons — all from the pre-automobile
era. Our favorite was a well-preserved
milk delivery wagon.
Cedar City is located in Utah's Iron
County and it was the need for iron that
led to its settlement. In 1847 Brigham
Young established the Mormons in Salt
Lake Valley and his plans included the
colonization of the surrounding country.
These latter efforts were greatly frus-
trated by the lack of iron. Without iron
tools, horseshoes, wagon wheels and
other important items, colonists could
not survive, much less develop new raw
lands. In fact, the shortage of this neces- began the month-long, 270-mile journey Creek and found it a " f l o u r i s h i n g
sary metal was threatening the develop- south. They made the trip safely in spite community."
ment of the main colony in Salt Lake of bitter cold and snow-patched ground. Coal was discovered in Cedar Canyon
Valley. From their initial base camp on Cedar in May 1851. With iron orebodies near-
Iron ore had been discovered in Cedar Creek, groups of men were sent out in by, it appeared the prospects for a suc-
Valley as early as 1847 by Captain every direction to explore the surround- cessful iron industry were very good. At
Jefferson Hart — a Mormon Battalion ing country. After evaluating the reports the time, Apostles Erastus Snow and
Volunteer. However, it wasn't until of the scouts, it was decided to set up a Franklin D. Richards were on missions in
1849, when the need for iron became local government, hold an election and England. They were advised of this de-
critical, that Parley P. Pratt and his com- establish the settlement of Center Creek velopment and, in 1852, organized the
pany of 50 men were commissioned to — now known as Parowan. Deseret Iron Company in Liverpool,
explore Southern Utah. Pratt's report of Almost immediately, these sturdy pi- England. A " c a l l " was immediately cir-
deep grasses, fine meadows, deposits of oneers began building a fort. It would be culated among the Mormon steel and
gypsum and limestone, with accessible needed in case any hostilities arose with iron workers in England and Wales to
timber nearby, led to Brigham Young's the Indians. Land was cleared, irrigation migrate to the United States. Their help
"calling" for 200 men to establish an ditches excavated and roads made into was needed to develop Utah's iron in-
"Iron Mission" in Cedar Valley. the timber country. Mill sites were se- dustry. The call was answered.
Assembling in mid-December, under lected and workshops set up. During a Parowan became the seat of newly-
the leadership of Apostle George A. trip to the Pacific Coast in April 1851, established Iron County. It, as well as
Smith, 167 men, women and children Parley P. Pratt came through Center the new settlements of Paragonah and
Coal Creek (now Cedar City), became
"home" to the many immigrant work-
Cedar City ers. In a very short time, two founderies
were working and the iron industry ap-
peared to have a bright future.
The following year, Indian problems
began in the north and spread to South-
ern Utah. Chief Walker led raiding par-
ties on the settlements, mainly stealing
horses and cattle. Brigham Young dis-
patched a Mormon Battalion against the
marauders and declared martial law.
Outlying ranches and settlements were
ordered to band together in the larger
towns.
This abandonment of ranches and re-
moval of livestock was a blow to Chief
Walker. He sent a message to Colonel
George Smith, Parowan's Military Com-
mander, stating the Mormons were fools
for abandoning homes and towns, for he
did not intend to molest them. His in-
tent was to only take their livestock! He
also advised them to return and tend
their crops, for if they neglected them,
they would starve and be obliged to
leave the country. This was not what he
desired, for then there would be no
livestock to steal.
Hostilities ceased, the settlements
flourished but the iron industry began to
falter. It was purchased by Apostles
CHAMBER OF COMMERCE VISITOR CENTER Snow and Richards as ordered by Brig-
SOUTHERN UTAH STATE COLLETE, SITE OF
ham Young. A new furnace was built and
UTAH SHAKESPEAREAN FESTIVAL
IRON MISSION STATE PARK AND MUSEUM other improvements made. However,
CEDAR CITY MUNICIPAL AIRPORT when the railroads came to Utah, iron
CEDAR CITY CANYON PARK could be purchased and shipped from
DOWNTOWN PARK other sources for less cost than Cedar
HISTORIC MORMON ROCK CHURCH
City iron. There had also been technical
K.O.A. CAMPGROUND
OLD RAILROAD STATION
problems and furnace failures. The

10
industry limped along for several years
before mining and milling operations
ceased.
During a visit to "Coal Creek," Brig-
ham Young had warned the Saints to
move to higher ground or they would not
escape the rampaging floods that often
came down the canyon. Town lots were
surveyed, though these hardy pioneers
didn't complete the move until 1861. The
new location was named 'Cedar City"
after the large junipers (mistakenly
thought to be cedars) that grew in the
area.
Loss of the coal industry brought hard
times for the townsfolk. Fortunately, a
rich gold strike at Delamar, Nevada, fol-
lowed by the great silver strike at
Pioche, found all types of supplies in de-
Fiddler Canyon
mand. The fortunes of Cedar City quick-
ly changed as ranchers hauled wagon
loads of beef, produce, lumber and other
Agate
vital supplies to the new strikes. Iron County, Utah
The coming of the railroad to Lund, in
1869, made possible the shipping of
goods throughout the state. There was
just one drawback — a good road to the
depot at Lund, 32 miles northwest of /If
Cedar City, did not exist. Eleven years
would pass before an improved road
would finally be completed in 1880.
Cedar City had begun to grow and was
This is a good place to park and search the slopes for colorful agate. The dirt road,
now assured of continued progress. To-
seen here, drops 40 feet [steep and rough] into the creekbed and ends at the old dam.
day, this small, attractive town offers the
best in family living, a fine college, expo-
sure to the Arts, as well as an outstand-
ing variety of recreational activities.
"Southwestern Utah, Multipurpose
Map No. 5," is a must for exploring
Cedar City environs. It is available for a
small fee at the Chamber's Visitor Cen-
ter. The map is large-scale and symbols
indicate every possible locale a vacation-
er might enjoy. The problem becomes
"where to start?" Naturally, this de-
pends on your personal interests. Why
not follow the example of the first set-
tlers? Fan out in all directions — you will
"sample" the field this way.
During our stay in Cedar City, Jerry
and I spent a day collecting agates in
Fiddler Canyon. From the K.O.A.
Campground, we traveled north on Main
Street (the old highway) for two miles
then turned east (right) through a gate.
If you see a pond, you are on the right
road! (Check accompanying map.) The
road is rather poor but passable for stock
cars. It wanders through junipers and
Continued on Page 39
Desert/September 1979 11
Idyllwild/San Jacinto Mountains
Old picture of Garner Valley area [above] of San Jacinto Mountains, taken before
by BILL JENNINGS

P
RESENT-DAY DENIZENS call it the
much development had occurred. San Jacinto peak is in background at right. Motor- Hill, but it may be hard for some to
ists frequently pause for a cooling drink of spring water at Halfway Spring [below] associate 10,000-foot summits with
on old Idyllwild Control Road from Hemet to San Jacinto Mountains resort region. perpetual snow crevasses with a hill, so
we will stick to the beautiful region's
proper title, the San Jacinto Mountains,
our destination for a weekend or week's
tour.
Less than a century ago, the only resi-
dents of and visitors to the beautiful high
country midriff of what is now Riverside
County were Indians, a few cattlemen
and miners, with a sprinkling of loggers
and health seekers. Today, the San
Jacintos still have Indians, a few cattle-
men and miners, no sprinkling of loggers
but 'a growing permanent and weekend
population of healthseeking Southern
Californians.
When we think of the pine-clad, clear-
air, highly scenic region we generally
think of its principal community, mile-
high Idyllwild, with its satellites, Pine
Cove and Mountain Center and the
growing residential outlands of Garner
and Anza valleys to the south and
southwest.
12 Desert/September 1979
Idyllwild's history is tangled, although
relatively brief. As a town with the pres-
ent name it didn't exist until 1899 when
the postoffice was established. Before
that, the general area was known vari-
ously as Rayneta, Saunders Meadow,
Strawberry Valley and even, for a brief
time, Dutch Flat.
The first organized non-Indian users
of the massive uplift of granite that
serves as a bulwark between the coastal
foothills and the desert valleys were
probably lumbermen, although some of
the remaining glory holes and aborted
mining shafts and tunnels hint that gold
seekers perhaps came ahead of the 1870-
era loggers. The timber hunters original-
ly sought suitable fuel, tie and bridge The Keen Camp resort [above], high in the San Jacinto Mountains and a popular
materials for the Southern Pacific Rail- spot in the 1890s and early days of this century, is now a Girl Scout camp. Masonry
road, which was building eastward from and concrete dam [below] at Lake Hemet in the San Jacinto Mountains was an en-
Los Angeles to Arizona. The first moun- gineering marvel of the world when built in 1890-1895. Dam impounds farm irriga-
tain settlement, in fact, was named tion waters of the San Jacinto River for the Hemet area.
Hall's Camp or Hall City for an elusive
figure, M.S. Hall, who affected the title
"Colonel," reportedly from Civil War
duty. Hall had a grading contract for the
line through the San Corgonio Pass.
In 1875, at about the same time Hall
was building a wagon road and logging
flume from the present site of Cabazon
up the mountain to about where Lake
Fulmor is today, another road was being
carved out of the rocky gorge of the San
Jacinto River on the west side of the
mountain.
This was Joseph Crawford's original
toll road from the San Jacinto Valley to
Strawberry Valley, roughly the site of
present-day Idyllwild. Lumbermen, a
daily stage, miners and homesteaders
were his few customers. Traces of this
old road and the Oak Cliff relay station in
the San Jacinto canyon remain today
midway between Hemet and Mountain
Center.
There was no road up from the Coa-
chella Valley in the early years, and no
need for one because the only hamlet be-
fore the railroad reached the desert was
the little Indian village of Agua Caliente,
later named Palm Springs when that
area also became a health retreat in
about 1885.
The first permanent settlers in the San
Jacintos were neither loggers nor gold
seekers but Mexican-Anglo cattlemen.
Charles Thomas moved his family from
the old Indian-Mexican settlement of
Temecula to the meadows of the San
Jacinto River's south fork in about 1869.
The lush pasturage with its pine borders
Desert/ SeDtember 1979 13
i ; '
Horse Thief Creek crossing on the his-
toric Bautista Canyon trail, later a wagon
road and now a fire truck trail.

era control road that reached Halfway


Spring and joined the present paved
road — State Highway 74 — at the site of
Oak Cliff.
: • - • :

(Author's Note: In all, there were


three old roads into the Idyllwild area
from the Hemet side of the mountain
before the present state highway was
completed in the 1920s. The first, the
Saunders Meadow logging toll road built
by Crawford, was established in 1875;
the second, or original control — one-
way — road was built in 1891 to Keen
Camp near present-day Mountain Cen-
ter and the third, the final control road,
followed in 1912. All used the lower San
Jacinto River Canyon for the first half of
the journey and separated at Oak Cliff,
12 miles east of Hemet.)
The heart of present-day Idyllwild" is
nearly two miles further up Strawberry
later became known as Thomas Valley season retreat for visiting professors Creek from the USC-Boy Scouts area,
and today is called Garner Valley after from all over the world. bordered more or less by Circle Drive
the family that bought the Thomas ranch Known either as ISOMATA or the and flanked by the two sites of the old
in 1903. Idyllwild Arts Foundation, the campus Idyllwild Inn, the original hotel.
Thus it is that few of the original was established in 1946 as a non-profit It probably is of no encern today save
names remain to mark the landmarks educational institute and served as a to old historians, but when you write
and communities of the San Jacintos to- haven for the arts — read that as music, about the Idyllwild Inn you have to dis-
day. Thomas Mountain, a promontory to fine arts, poetry, creative writing, drama tinguish between two historic structures,
the west of Garner Valley, is an — offering university-level credit for at adjacent sites, both long gone. The
exception. teachers and graduate students as well first Idyllwild Inn, built in about 1900
Riverside County came into being in as a lovely summer session for young- and demolished during World War II
1893, carved by the State Legislature sters. Dr. Max Krone and his wife, Bea, after a major fire, was located in what is
mostly out of San Diego County to the were the dynamic force behind the now described as Eleanor Park, a tract
south and a long sliver from San Bernar- successful program. donated to the community some years
dino County to the north and west. In addition to the university's se- ago by the family of the late Jerry John-
There is some indication that Idyllwild cluded campus, re-named in 1962, the son, an early real estate man.
and the rapidly expanding resort resi- meadows has long been the home for the The second Inn, just across the street,
dential areas of the San Jacinto Moun- Riverside County Boy Scout camping was erected by the Foster interests in
tains today owe most of their allegiance program at Camp Emerson, named for 1945 and was torn down in early 1976
to the coastal counties of Orange and Los the late Lee Emerson, longtime director after the beautiful building was con-
Angeles. At least that's where many of of the old Idyllwild Inn and other facili- demned as a fire and safety hazard.
the new residents sprang from and many ties of the original major Idyllwild Because of the original design and lay-
of the growing cultural connections seem developers. out of the two inns, the present com-
to trend from the metropolitan area as Hardy Scouts are an echo of another munity has developed in a sort of town
well. long-gone Idyllwild institution located square around the sites, which gives
For example, there is the Idyllwild further out on the long bench bisected by Idyllwild a community flavor and distinc-
campus of the University of Southern Strawberry Creek before it makes the tion seldom found in 1979 Southern Cali-
California, located in the heart of Straw- steep dropoff to join the San Jacinto fornia towns.
berry Valley where the first health River far below. This area, also known as A complete shopping complex has
camps and much of the early-day logging Alvin Meadows, was the site of the built up around the two inn sites and an-
were centered. Known until just a few mountains, old CCC camp, established other, generally described as Fern
years ago as ISOMATA — the Idyllwild in 1936. Valley, is another half-mile up Straw-
School of Music and the Arts — the Adjacent is Chimney Flats, complete berry Creek. As Idyllwild continues to
lovely campus today is a year-around ad- to a chimney dating to the CCC days, grow, the two shopping areas are grad-
junct of USC instead of a summer-school and the still usable portion of the 1912- ually blending together.
14 Desert/September 1979
Solitary hiker nears the summit of
Devil's Slide trail above Idyllwild in the
San Jacinto Mountains wilderness area.

Partially because of its proximity to


Hollywood and more importantly be-
cause of its smog-free atmosphere and
photogenic citizens, Idyllwild and envi-
rons has long been a favorite "location"
shooting site for films and most recently,
television shows and commercials. The
local residents have just as long been
handy extras for the crowd scenes.
Many television series, for example,
used the San Jacinto Mountains for loca-
tion filming, particularly Garner Valley
and the business area of Idyllwild — and
this exotic part-time industry continues
irregularly. Richard Boone's This Gun
For Hire was a regular, and one of Idyll-
wild's best remembered golden mo-
ments occured when the late Elvis Pres- Thus, hikers make a one-day loop trip, ger area, 20 miles southwest of Idyllwild
ley filmed there. Another visitor at times from Humber Park to the tramway via on State Highway 371, the main detour
was Lucille Ball. the peak, or vice versa. route connecting Palm Springs and San
But the main attraction for nearly a Camping and hiking areas in the high Diego.
century now has been the vest-pocket country are mostly in either the San Many private campgrounds persist in
mountain enclave's scenery, resulting in Bernardino National Forest or the Mt. the area, although not as numerous as in
heavy seasonal activity by campers, San Jacinto Wilderness State Park. earlier years. These include sites owned
hikers and health seekers. Paradoxically, Together, these entwined areas encom- by the Boy and Girl Scouts, several
mountain winter sports have never been pass more than 260,000 acres, of which YMCA and YWCA agencies and a half-
a major item because of the unpredict- more than 35,000 acres is designated as dozen church denominational retreats.
able quality and quantity of snow. The permanently roadless and unimproved Primary roads into the San Jacintos
past three winters have produced excel- wilderness — a primary tourist attrac- are all two-lane, strictly mountain type
lent skiing conditions but there are no tion for Idyllwild and the other moun- arteries, prone to infrequent icing and
lifts in the area. Cross country skiing, tain communities. chain requirements in winter, but gen-
however, is gaining in popularity. Federal and state campgrounds are erally open all year. From Hemet, the
Enhancing the area's recreational po- plentiful in the mountain area but their main route is State Highway 74, usually
tential the past 16 years has been the availability and easy access from the Los called the Palms-to-Pines, an original
Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. Not gen- Angeles-Orange County metropolitan unit of the State Scenic Highway System.
erally associated with the mountain area, area makes them prone to over-crowd- It runs from Palm Desert, 13 miles
the 6,000-foot, two-mile tramway opened ing. As a result, even back country southeast of Palm Springs, into the San
in 1963 as a prime tourist attraction for hiking and camping now require reserva- Jacinto range, through Hemet, Perris'
the desert resort area, but also has pro- tions, available through the Idyllwild of- and Lake Elsinore, over the Ortega Di-
vided a side benefit for the Idyllwild fices of the U.S. Forest Services and the vide and across the Santa Ana Moun-
region. state park. tains to its western terminus at San Juan
Many back country hikers, particularly There are many other overnight ac- Capistrano-.
those on tight schedules, have used the commodations, ranging from car camp- The primary north-south route is a
tramway as a giant first step toward ing sites maintained by the two agencies mixture of Several state highways (SRs),
scaling Mt. San Jacinto and reaching and Riverside County to full-service, SR 243 from Interstate 10 at Banning
other back country camping and hiking even palatial motels at several locations. south through Lake Fulmore, Pine Cove
areas. The tram reaches an elevation of The major public-use, privately owned and Idyllwild to Mountain Center, where
8,516 feet at its mountain terminal, campgrounds is a beautiful meadow and it joins SR 74 briefly for a 10-mile joint
slightly more than 2,000 feet and only forest site at Pine Cove, four miles up routing to the Anza junction, a line there
four miles below the summit. By com- State Highway 243 from Idyllwild on the with SR 371 then through Anza to
parison, the Humber Park terminus of way to Banning. Aguanga where it ends at State Highway
the Devil's Slide trail on the other side of This is Wilderness Pines, with tent 79. Riverside County's highest road also
the mountain above Idyllwild is 7,000 and recreational vehicle spaces available joins the system near Anza junction.
feet and nearly 10 miles away from he on reservation. There are other, smaller This is Forest Service Route 7S02, the
10,831-foot peak. installations mainly in the Anza-Terwilli- Continued on Page 39
Desert/September 1979 15
byDlCKBLOOMQUIST
campground, shaded by tamarisk trees,
is on County Road S3 a fraction of a mile
off State Highway 78. A drive up S3 from
Tamarisk Grove toward Yaqui Pass gives
a rewarding preview of adventures
ahead, for from the road the entire ex-
panse of Mescal Bajada and its moun-
tain backdrop spreads out in mystic
splendor to the southeast.
Although it is bordered by a state
highway, Mescal Bajada has an un-
spoiled freshness about it. It's pure and
beautiful desert, with no roads, camp-
grounds, power lines or other works of
man to break the spell. Some of the ar-
royos, however, do provide routes of tra-
vel for four-wheel-drives. The major
ones, from west to east, are Chuckwalla
Wash, Mine Canyon, and Pinyon Wash.
Chuckwalla is about 2.0 miles east of the
junction of 78 and S3. Mine is 2.9 miles
east, and Pinyon 4.2 miles east. As you
drive along Highway 78, watch for the
yellow-and-brown state park guideposts
where the road crosses the washes. Be-
cause they are designed for backcountry
Jeepers and hikers, not for fast-moving
highway motorists, these posts are small
and inconspicuous.
Mine Canyon has long been one of my
favorites, despite the fact that I've never
been able to locate the abandoned mine
which gave the canyon its name. Horace
Parker, in his Anza-Borrego Desert
Guide Book, states that the largest un-
successful mine in the vicinity is in Mine
Canyon. And Lester Reed, in Old Time
Cattlemen and Other Pioneers of the
Anza-Borrego Area, says that the mine
is at the upper end of the canyon near
the end of the Jeep road. Perhaps a
reader can shed more light on its exact
location and also tell us for what mineral
the miners were searching.
I have traveled up Mine Canyon as far
P
ESCAL BAJADA — the name may and lies south of State Highway 78 be- as a vehicle can go, and have also en-
be unfamiliar to many. It is made up tween the Tamarisk Grove Campground tered it on foot from the Earthquake Val-
I of the Spanish words mescal, mean- on the west and the Narrows of San Fe- ley side to the southwest. The North
ing century plant or agave, and bajada, lipe Creek on the east; it is bounded on Pinyon Mountain Jeep road branches off
literally a slope or downgrade. In the the south by the Pinyon Mountains. from County Raod S2 in Earthquake Val-
Southwest, bajada is the word for a slop- Mescal Bajada is small and compact ley just inside the park boundary and
ing outwash plain at the foot of a desert (roughly four miles wide by four miles ends at the headwaters of Mine Canyon.
mountain range. In desert country each long), but offers outstanding scenic From there it is possible to hike down the
canyon builds an alluvial fan below its beauty, intriguing washes and canyons, canyon into Mescal Bajada. The Anza-
mouth; when several of these fans coa- rich plant life, Indian signs, plus a bit of Borrego Desert Guide Book indicates
lesce, the result is a bajada. So, Mescal desert lore and legend. that this was once a natural travel route
Bajada could be translated "Outwash The state park's Tamarisk Grove between Earthquake Valley and San
Plain of the Century Plants." Campground, just beyond Mescal Baja- Felipe Creek.
It is located near the center of Cali- da's northwest edge, makes a very con- A little over a mile east of Mine Can-
fornia's Anza-Borrego Desert State Park venient base camp. This small, improved yon, Highway 78 crosses Pinyon Wash,

Desert/September 1979 17
COOK BOOKS
For the outdoor enthusiast,
the last arroyo draining Mescal Bajada
and the Pinyon Mountains before the
bajada's eastern end is reached at the
Narrows. Pinyon also has two tributaries
— Bighorn Canyon and Nolina Wash —
plore and enjoy the Mescal Bajada coun-
try. Four-wheel-drive is useful in getting
me and my gear away from the pave-
ment and within range of points of inter-
est, after which I prefer to leave the ve-
and those who like to flavor which join it not far from the road. Big- hicle behind and strike out afoot. The
their life with the unusual horn Canyon is named for the desert big- bajada has much to offer the hiker.
horn sheep [borrego in Spanish) which, Vegetation is abundant and varied,
AMEHICAX INDIAN" on rare occasions, can be seen in the and in springtime many annual wild-
higher country to the south. Blue Spring flowers add their color to an already im-
near the canyon's headwaters in the Pin- pressive plant community. Mescal,
yon Mountains was long a watering desert lavender, chuparosa, ephedra,
place of the bighorns, but according to cheesebush, smoke tree, ocotillo, and
the last report I had, the spring is now ironwood, together with barrel, hedge-
dry. Nolina Wash takes its name from a hog, cholla, and beavertail cacti, are
plant somewhat similar in general some of the larger plants. Pinyon pine
AMERICAN INDIAN FOOD AND LORE by
Carolyn Neithammer. Original Indian plants
appearance to the Whipple yucca. and juniper grow in the higher eleva-
used for foods, medicinal purposes, etc., de- From road's end in Pinyon Wash hik- tions. Once on an April day I counted
scribed, plus unusual recipes. Large format,
191 pages, profusely illustrated, $5.95. ers may continue upstream, leaving approximately 30 different kinds of
Mescal Bajada and entering isolated plants in bloom near Pinyon Wash.
CHUCK WAGON COOKIN' by Stella
Hughes. Recipes collected straight from the Harper's Flat, where the Harper broth- Indian signs are another rewarding
source—cowboy cooks. Contains Mexican re- ers attempted to run cattle early in this feature for the foot traveler. Mescal pits
cipes, instructions for deep-pit barbecue and
the art of using Dutch ovens for cooking century. In 1922 the two brothers, Amby — depressions in which the Dieguenos
everything from sourdough biscuits to Son- and Julius, and Julius' son Akim, com- roasted the young flower stalks of the
of-Gun stew. Paperback, 170 pages, $4.95.
pleted a pair of dams along upper Pinyon mescal (century plant or agave) — can
DUTCH OVEN COOK BOOK by Don Holm. Canyon above Harper's Flat. A line still be seen. Only once during its life-
New and exciting culinary adventures in
Dutch Oven cooking. Heavy paperback, 106 shack can also be seen near the lower time does the agave produce a flower
pages, $4.95. dam. The dams were built to provide stalk; after flowering the plant dies. This
ARIZONA COOK BOOK by Al and Mildred water for the cattle, but failed to do so stalk, which may eventually reach a
Fischer. Unusual recipes for Indian cooking, because of silt and unreliable rainfall. height of 15 feet or more, was pried out
Mexican dishes, Western specialties. Unique
collection. Paperback, 142 pages, $3.00. Hiking, to me, is the best way to ex- from its basal rosette of leaves while still
De GRAZIA AND MEXICAN COOKERY, II-
lustratred by De Grazla, text by Rita Daven- Crinding holes and pestle fragments atone of Mescal Bajada's Indian sites.
port. A delightful presentation containing all
the favorite Mexican recipes that have be-
come standard throughout the Southwest.
Beautiful illustrations, in color, by the incom-
parable De Grazia. $4.95.
CACTUS COOK BOOK compiled by Joyce L.
Tate. An excellent selection of recipes that
emphasize their edible or potable qualities.
Also includes chapter on Food Preservation.
Paperback, 127 pages, $2.00.
SOURDOUGH COOKBOOK by Don and
Myrtle Holm. How to make a sourdough
starter, and many dozens of sourdough re-
cipes. Paperback, 136 pages, illus., $4.95.
CITRUS COOK BOOK by Glenda McGillis.
An unusual and outstanding treasury of
citrus cookery. Includes tips on freezing,
juicing and shipping. Paperback, spiral
bound, $2.00.
CALIFORNIA COOK BOOK by Al and Mil-
dred Fischer. Recipes divided into "Early
California," "California Fruits," "California
Products," "Sea Foods" and "Wine Cook-
ing." 400 more unique collections by the
Fischers. Paperback, 142 pages, $3.00.

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Palm Desert, California 92260

18 Desert/September 1979 I
Great Research
Books

View across Mescal Bajada from the foothills of the Pinyon Mountains. Dark notch
to left is the Narrows of San Felipe Creek at the bajada's northeast corner.
Dominant vegetation in this photo is ocotillo. RAILROADS OF NEVADA AND EASTERN
CALIFORNIA VOL. I by David F. Myrlck. The
poignant record of over 43 railroads of Northern
young and small and roasted in a shallow ert waterhole. The Yaqui was said to Nevada, many of them never before chronicled.
Fantastic reproduction of rare photographs and
pit usually lined with rocks. In color and have a secret source of gold somewhere maps (over 500). A deluxe presentation. Large
format, hardcover, $15.00.
flavor the cooked bud resembles a yam. in the Badlands, a source he tapped
In addition, the leaf fibers of the agave whenever he needed money. And the RAILROADS OF NEVADA AND EASTERN
CALIFORNIA VOL. II by David F. Myrlck. Just
provided the Indians with material for trail to this treasure, a trail known only as Vol. I detailed the history of the Northern
to the Indian, started at Yaqui Well. Roads, Vol. II expands the railroad history to the
rope, bowstrings, sandals, and other Southern Roads of Nevada. This volume also
items. With its stands of century pint Another legend of desert gold is that contains a useful index to both volumes, and Is a
reliable and accurate travel guide today as the
and its ancient pits, Mescal Bajada is in- of the prospector and the Indian woman. reader wanders among the ghost towns of the
past. Lavishly Illustrated with maps and old
deed well named! One evening near the Narrows at the photos, large format, hardcover, $15.00.
Aboriginal grinding holes in which northeast corner of Mescal Bajada, an
wild seeds were ground up for food old burro-man met an Indian woman who
dimple rock outcrops, and potsherds are had with her the body of her dead hus-
frequently seen. Fragments of Diegueno band. She promised that she would re-
trails, some still bordered by rock mark- ward the prospector with gold if he
ers, can be followed for short distances. would help her take the body to the
Searching these old pathways and burial ground in the nearby mountains.
pondering their destinations is a fas- Traveling in darkness through rugged
cinating pastime. Often a trail will dis- country, they transported the body to the
appear in a sandy wash, but can be proper place and buried it. Then the
picked up again beyond the break. Some woman disappeared into the night, re-
of the Mescal Bajada routes no doubt led turning many hours later and guiding
to Harper's Flat, the Pinyon Mountains, the prospector back to the spot where
Earthquake Valley and Yaqui Well. they had met. True to her promise, she RAILROADS OF ARIZONA VOL. I by David F.
Myrick. More than 30 railroads of Southern Ari-
Yaqui Well, northwest of Mescal Ba- handed him several nuggets of gold from zona are presented, together with 542 nostalgic
her secret store. But, try as he might, illustrations, 55 special maps and an Index. A
jada and a fraction of a mile up San Fe- valuable travel guide and a reliable historical re-
lipe Wash from Tamarisk Grove Camp- the prospector could never find the ference. Large format, hardcover, 477 pages
$19.50.
ground, is still a reliable source of water. source of the nuggets, and to this day its
Please add 50c for Postage/handling
It was named for a Yaqui Indian from location remains a mystery.
Calif, residents add 6% state sales tax
Mexico who settled there in the late One further incentive, if one needs it,
1800's. Many are the tales of hidden for exploring the washes, canyons and Magazine Book Shop
gold which revolve about this famed des- mountain slopes of Mescal Bajada. • P. O Box 1318, Palm Desert, Calif 92260

npsprt/Spntpmhpr 1Q7Q 19
AHCHEOLOGICAL STUDIES (
F DESERT AHEAS E7 BUI
Clockwise, from left:
No pun, but here is a double by TOM EVANS
barrel cactus. Agave in bloom. Public Information Officer
The agave reaches maturity
in seven to 12 years and blooms.
Then it dies. The flowers form seed
pods. Fibers from the agave leaves I SERIES of archeological studies be- BLM "In House" Inventory of three
were used by Indians in making PQ gan this summer in Imperial and areas: Glamis Ceothermal, a 25 percent
nets and baskets. Young agave | | San Diego Counties by the Bureau sampling of 44,000 acres in the Glamis
plants growing in a constantly of Land Management is expected to pro- area east of the Imperial Dunes; Dunes
enlarging circle as the inner parent vide more knowledge about prehistoric Ceothermal, a 25 percent sampling of
plants mature and die. The young agave Native American groups of the area and 17,920 acres just east of the Westec
"heart'' was roasted in a pit. The their relationships to former Lake Ca- study area and south of the Glamis area;
edible portion is described as being hilla (pronounced "Cah-we-ah"). San Felipe Geothermal, at least a 50 per-
similar to a yam. An ocotillo plant Most of the studies in Imperial County cent sampling of 8,960 acres, at the
in bloom. The branches are clothed with are being done in areas of potential geo- southwest corner of Salton Sea, about 20
close-growing dark green leaves, thermal resource leasing. The exception miles west of Westmoreland. Cost of this
the flowers are red and were is a 10-acre site at Ocotillo, where BLM three-area study is about $20,000. Com-
used as food. The flavor is will construct its Yuha Desert Visitor pletion is planned for October.
similar to honeysuckle. Center. This site is the most intriguing Yuha Visitor Center Site: Jay Von
because its artifacts may be more than Werlhof, interim Curator and Senior
10,000 years old. Archeologist of the Imperial Valley Col-
The study in eastern San Diego Coun- lege Museum, directed a 100 percent
ty, including McCain Valley, is to gather surface sampling of the 10-acre site
data for use in preparation of a grazing where BLM is scheduled to begin con-
environmental statement for 98,000- struction of a visitor center at Ocotillo in
acres sandwiched between Cleveland October. The site is just off Interstate 8.
National Forest and Anza-Borrego State Sampling is now complete but additional
Park. It extends almost to Riverside work is required, including a search for
County line on the north and to the U.S.- radio carbon datable material to estab-
Mexico border on the south. lish the age of very old artifacts. Cost of
Russ Kaldenberg, District Archeolo- this work is $5,000.
gist for BLM's Riverside District, pro- McCain Valley: Archeological Systems
vided this summary of the work Management of San Diego has a $56,000
underway: contract to sample seven percent of the
Easf-West Mesa Ceothermal Area: 98,000-acre planning unit. The study is
Westec Services, Inc., of San Diego is being coordinated by ASM's John Cook.
sampling 15 percent of 100 square miles Included is rock art study directed by
on both sides of Imperial Valley, in- Ken Hedges, Curator of Archeology and
cluding major portions of the Yuha Des- Ethnology at the San Diego Museum of
ert on the west and the Imperial Sand Man. Completion of this study is sche-
Dunes on the east. Westec also will duled for September 30.
provide a research design for future
studies. Cost of this contract is $50,000. In-House Inventories
Completion of the Westec work is sche- Kaldenberg said the "in-house" study
duled for August 15. — by four archeologists hired specifical-
Desert/September 1979 21
Ken Hedges, Curator of Archeology and
Ethnology at the Museum of Man, San
Diego, shows well preserved pictographs.

impact, and they would be required to


thoroughly excavate areas where surface
disturbances would occur. All of this
would be placed in the stipulations and it
would be entirely at developer expense."
Kelley, the team leader, said the study
area at one time had been under 110 feet
of water when Lake Cahuilla occupied
most of Coachella and Imperial Valleys
as recently as 500 years ago. After the
former lake bed was vegetated, Cahuilla
people settled in the area, apparently in
large numbers because of nearby Harp-
ers Well, one of the few perennial
springs in that part of the desert.
The spring and its run-off — San Fe-
lipe Wash — meant abundant wildlife
such as owls, coyotes, rabbits and frogs.
ly for a four-month job — is the largest of done by a private contractor and the There also was, and is, an abundance of
its type undertaken by the Riverside Dis- sampling would b 15 percent instead of mesquite seed, which was ground into
trict BLM. Its purpose is to provide 25 percent being done by the BLM team. flour. These food sources resulted in de-
comparisons with contract work on cost "This series of inventories in potential velopment of many village sites.
efficiency, logistics and coverage to de- geothermal leasing areas may result in " I spent 10 hours looking for the boun-
termine the location, density and types the location of important sites — places daries of village sites," Kelly said,
of archeological sites. where we wouldn't want leases to "and there were no boundaries."
The team of specially employed arche- occur," Kaldenberg said. " I t appears The Cahuilla people who lived in this
ologists is headed by Marvis Kelley, UC, that'there may be no conflict in the Gla- area did so after the lake dried up about
Riverside. Others on the team are: La- mis area, because of a paucity of sites, 1500 A.D. although the massive lake has
Verne Conway, UC, Berkeley; Clenda but the San Felipe area has tremendous come and gone many times, and some
Foster, San Jose State; and Maureen archeological resources. In San Felipe artifacts may be from previous times of
Steiner, UC, Davis there may be no surface occupancy, or if occupation.
Kaldenberg said the work they are there is, geothermal developers would Little is known for certain about San
doing at a cost of $20,000 would require be required to conduct 100 percent in- Felipe, but it is known that DeAnza
an expenditure of more than $50,000 if ventories of areas they would directly visited Harpers Well in 1774, and a land
plat of 1855 showed an Indian village
there. Intrusion of the white man caused
the village to disappear.
Gail Egolf, BLM's El Centro Resource
Area archeologist, said radioactive car-
bon dating has established that people
lived in the area at least 10,000 years ago
— a period that apparently encompassed
many fillings and recessions of Lake
Cahuilla.
, Lake Cahuilla
Cerrit Fenenga, BLM's Indio Re-
source Area archeologist and a specialist
on Lake Cahuilla, said the most recent
stand of lake is believed to have begun

The low circle of rocks shown here on a


hillside in the McCain area may have
been part of a hunting blind. Bighorn
sheep once were plentiful in the area.
Marvis Kelley, head of an archeological
team which conducted three inventories
in areas of possible geothermal leases.
He is holding mesquite beans, which
were used by Southern California Indians
as a major food source.

about 900 A.D. and to have lasted until


about 1500 A.D. The indundation was
caused by shifting channels in the Colo-
rado River delta. At times these
channels diverted water into the Salton
Sink, which dips to 225 feet below sea
level, and created the lake.
In its most recent stand, the lake is be-
lieved to have been 115 miles long, 35
miles wide at the widest point and as
much as 315 feet deep. It extended from
north of Indio to about 25 miles south of
the U.S.-Mexico border.
The northern end of the lake filled
much of the Coachella Valley and at-
tracted the heaviest habitation — people
of the Cahuilla tribe, who built year- calamitous events for the Indians were quite and screwbean — both highly nu-
round villages. There was abundant more immediate. tritious and storable.
food: freshwater fish, clams, migratory Fresh water mussels could not adapt It appears that the people were liv-
waterfowl and marsh plants, as well as to the rapid recession and are believed to ing on the lake bed by 1600. They built
upland wildlife and plants. The southern have disappeared within 10 years. villages at springs and walk-in wells they
end of the lake filled the Imperial Val- Higher water temperatures and in- dug. White explorers in the mid 1800's
ley. The lakeshore was occupied by creased salinity brought an end within 25 reported irrigated agriculture. The crops
fewer people — the Kamia, who primar- years to fish populations, marsh plants included corn, pumpkins and water-
ily were nomadic hunters and gatherers. and wildlife associated with the marshes, melons.
It is estimated that the Cahuilla popu- including waterfowl. Then the Indian settlements vanished
lation ranged from 2,500 to 3,500 at the The dilemma for the Cahuilla and — for good. The white man proved to be
peak when the lake was full and food was Kamia was to find supplemental food a more decisive calamity for Indian life-
comparatively plentiful. For hundreds of sources. They moved into the mountains. ways than the Colorado: Lake Cahuilla
years the Colorado dutifully fed the lake. It is not known how much time passed cannot happen again. Boulder Dam con-
There was no reason to believe it would before the lake bed was revegetated. trols the Colorado River flows and pre-
change. But it did. A build-up of silt in The key plants to appear were the mes- vents it- Continued on Page 46
the delta and a change in the channel
about 1500 A.D. resulted in calamitous
adjustments for the Cahuilla and Kamia
peoples. Fenenga said that once the in-
flow of the Colorado was cut off, reces-
sion of the lake by evaporation appar-
ently was progressive. Evaporation
occurred at the rate of about six feet of
depth a year. Part of the story is told by a
pathetic progression of stone fish traps
which descend on 15 shorelines about
five feet apart.
At this rate of evaporation, the lake
would have dried up in 55 to 60 years and
become a barren salt playa, but the

Fish trap—remnants of rock enclosure


constructed by prehistoric Indians on the
shore of Lake Cahuilla. The fish entered
a small opening and apparently were
netted as they tried to escape.
Desert/September 1979 23
Some storage buildings still left in Harqua Hala.

HARQUA H
OT TOO FAR from Salome, Arizona
rests the remains of the once boom-
ing town of Harqua Hala. Remnants
of the mining operation and a number of
the town's old buildings can still be visi-
ted. In addition, there are some nice

HALA,
mineral specimens available to the rock-
hound who is willing to spend some time
digging through the dumps and rock
piles in the area.
The town began with the discovery of
gold in the Harquahala Mountains in

ARIZONA 1888 by Harry Watton, Bob Stein, and


Mike Sullivan. These three actually dis-
covered two separate deposits nearly a
mile apart from each other, later to be
called the Bonanza and the Golden
Eagle. It is reputed that there was a
fourth partner, in addition to Watton,
by JAMES R.MITCHELL
Stein and Sullivan. This fourth partner,
whose name has been lost over the
years, was reportedly in Yuma obtaining
supplies when the discoveries were
made. Upon returning to the group; he
24 Desert/September 1979
learned of the rich gold that was dis- and the new town prospered, Carmillita another. On January 7th Alonzo Johnson
covered, but was also informed that he still insisted that she had known of the and two companions arrived in Harqua
was no longer a partner. After a court valuable minerals in that location well Hala by wagon. The trip had been long
battle, it was determined that the claims before Watton, Stein and Sullivan, and and dry, and when they finally arrived in
belonged to the three who had actually that the gold was rightfully hers. town, Johnson headed for the nearest
discovered them, and the fourth partner, As the mining advanced in the area, saloon and started to drink. He drank
even though he was obtaining supplies the town started to grow. A story is told through the entire night and eventually
for the others, was not legally entitled to that the first saloon in Harqua Hala was started gambling. This- drinking and
the mining rights. established by a man who, while visiting gambling continued throughout the
As Watton, Stein and Sullivan started the area, set up a tent, and started sell- following day and, as he started losing at
work on their claims, another legal prob- ing drinks from his one and only bottle the gambling table, he became more and
lem was unfolding. A woman named of whisky. This enterprising man sold more irritable in his drunken state.
Carmillita, who lived in the nearby town out in less than an hour and history He then started antagonizing a local
of Harrisburg, announced that the new- doesn't have a record of whether or not resident named Peter Burns. This antag-
found claims were actually hers and he later expanded his business, or if it onism and many attempts to start a fight
made reference to a marker nearby with was just a one time thing. In any event, with Burns continued for many hours.
her name attached. It was soon discov- shortly thereafter, there were a number When Burns would try to leave or to
ered, however, that she had over 300 of saloons in this area as more and more avoid Johnson, Johnson would follow,
such unrecorded markers in the area, all thirsty people moved in to work the continuing his verbal and sometimes
seeming to be randomly placed with no mines. physical abuse. Finally Johnson grabbed
evidence of any prospecting. A judge de- In January of 1889, Harqua Hala was a large wrench and charged Burns with
cided that it was a coincidence that shocked by its first murder. The town it. Burns, feeling that his life could be in
something of value was found near one had suffered many losses at the hands of jeopardy, quickly pulled out a gun and,
of her markers and her claims were all Indians, but never, up to this time, had before Johnson could make contact with
discounted. In later years, as the mines one of its citizens been accused of killing the wrench, shot him in the face. John-

^
•^^wj:
,v.-\<

Illustration by Russ Nolte.

Desert/September 1979
gold. By 1899, the British group was in
financial trouble and put the operation
up for sale at a public auction. Ironically,
the person who purchased the company
was A.G. Hubbard, one of the men who
had sold the mine to the group
originally. Hubbard, however, paid less
than $5,000 to regain ownership of the
mines, a far cry from the $1,250,000 he
had received for them only a few years
previously. The British company had
taken out $750,000 in bullion while they
were in operation.
During the following years, the mines
were nearly idle, except for some small
lessees doing some work. The town
gradually folded up and most of the in-
habitants moved to more prosperous
areas.
In 1906, the Harqua Hala Mining
Company was organized, but in the
seven years of their operation, they
made virtually no profit. From 1913 until
1916 the Yuma Warrior Mining Com-
pany produced a small profit from the
A view of the mine workings taken from the central section of town. mines and tailings, but not enough to
continue. The post office closed in Aug-
son died immediately and the town was the mining operation and had built a 150- ust of 1918.
shocked. Peter Burns, one of the town's ton cyanide plant to extract the gold from W.L. Hart and some associates reop-
most respected citizens, was taken to jail the tailings of both the Bonanza and the ened the mine in 1926 and there was a
to stand trial in Harrisburg for murder. Golden Eagle. slight rebirth of activity in the ensuing
Eventually he was found innocent of the In the meantime, the town itself was years. The post office was re-established
charges, with the jury ruling it as self- booming. There was a post office, many in 1927 under the name of Harqua, but
defense. stores, a stage running daily between Hart's company was unable to produce a
By 1890, there were disputes concern- Harqua Hala and Sentinel, a number of worthwhile profit and, in 1934, they
ing many of the mining claims in the boarding houses, numerous saloons, and stopped operations. The post office had
area. Claim jumping was common, and all of the other necessary businesses closed two years earlier, and, by this
legal arguments ensued. Then, in mid- needed for a full-fledged town. A local time, there was virtually no one left in
1890, the two largest claims in the vicin- newspaper, The Harqua Hala Miner, the town. A few die-hards remained for
ity, the Bonanza and the Golden Eagle, was started by Captain John McCasey in many years, but today nobody is living in
were sold to A.G. Hubbard and G.W. the early 1890s and a pipeline over six what remains of Harqua Hala.
Bowers. Hubbard and Bowers proceeded miles long was constructed to furnish The total production of the Bonanza
to develop these claims into a large- this desert town with water. and the Golden Eagle was about
scale operation and organized the Bo- One interesting note about Harqua $2,500,000. The Bonanza deposit was in
nanza Mining Company. Eventually, Hala deals with the method it used to a fault zone which cut through lime-
most of the holders of the smaller, and ship the valuable gold ingots. The gold stone, shale and quartzite into a base of
far less productive claims found it more had to be transported many miles by granite. The ore occured in two major
profitable to work for Hubbard and wagon to Phoenix and, in the vast zones and ranged from a width of just a
Bowers than to work their own diggings. stretches of desert that the wagon had to few inches to many feet. There was some
In 1891, the Bonanza Mining Com- traverse, it was easy prey for robbers. silver found in the ore, but very little. On
pany had set up a 20-stamp amalgama- After being held up a number of times, the dumps, the rockhound can find
tion mill, and by 1893 the company had the mine engineers devised a way to specimens of red hematite, quartz,
extracted $1,600,000 in bullion, making pour the gold into ingots weighing as chrysocolla, calcite and some gypsum.
it a very profitable operation. By late much as 400 pounds. By doing this, if the The Golden Eagle vein cut through
1893, however, the mines were playing ore wagon was held up, the robbers quartzite and the ore shoots were some-
out and Hubbard and Bowers sold out to could not lift the heavy gold, and would times up to 15 feet wide. The rockhound
a British group for $1,250,000. This be unable to get away with it. This can find pyrite, chalcopyrite and some
group called themselves the Harqua method seemed to work very well. galena on these dumps.
Hala Gold Mining Company, Ltd., and, In 1897 the ore body and the tailings A very interesting sidelight dealing
by 1895, they had completely remodeled were nearly depleted of their precious with Harqua Hala is the often mentioned

26 Desert/September 1979
possibility that one of its mines could be
the famous Lost Belle McKeever gold
deposit This legendary deposit is re-
'>§:,
puted to be in the general area of the
Harquahala Mountains, and some of the
ore taken from this region is very simi-
lar to that from the Lost McKeever.
As the story goes, in 1869, nearly 20
years before Watton, Stein and Sullivan
made their discoveries, a rancher named
Abner McKeever and some of his family
were working in their fields quite a dis-
tance from the safety of their home, near
the present day site of Cila Bend. They
were attacked by a renegade band of
Apache Indians and the warriors kid-
napped McKeever's daughter, Belle.
McKeever frantically sent word to Fort
Yuma, and troops were sent out in pur-
suit of the Apaches and their hostage.
The troops eventually came across the
Indians and they immediately split up
and headed in different directions.
The soldiers, not knowing which of the
parties had the captured girl, also split
up. One of these groups was comprised A view of some of the remaining buildings that still can be found in Harqua Hala.
of three men: Sergeant Crossthwaite,
Private Wormley and Private Flannigan. to continue. Wormley and Flannigan diers were delirious, and could have
These three followed their assigned continued on, but, in due time, Flanni- strayed well off the course that they as-
band of Indians for many miles across gan also found himself unable to go sumed they were on. The mountains
the hot summer desert."Eventually the further. Wormley eventually made it to where they actually found the gold could
Indians were able to escape the followers the Gila and related his story to the other have been in an altogether different lo-
and the three soldiers found themselves troops. cation than they r e m e m b e r e d . The
lost in some very inhospitable and un- Without hesitation, the solders headed Granite Wash Mountains are slightly
familiar territory. out searching for Flannigan and Crossth- north of the present day town of Salome,
While traveling in the direction they waite. They found Flannigan alive and while the Harquahalas are slightly south
hoped would lead them to the Gila River, were able to save his life, but it was too of Salome. It is possible that the two
two of the horses died of exhaustion and late for Crossthwaite. He died shortly m o u n t a i n ranges could have been
the men were near death. Luckily, they after he was found. The horse with the confused by the incoherent soldiers as
came upon a spring in the foothills of a gold was located, and nearly $1,800 they struggled through the intense heat
desert mountain and spent that night worth of ore was in its saddlebags. of the desert.
near it. Early the next morning, some- For many years after this incident, There are many who feel that either
what refreshed, they returned to the Flannigan and Wormley searched for the the Golden Eagle or the Bonanza is the
spring for more water and discovered elusive spring and the gold, but were un- Lost McKeever. Whether it is or whether
gold nuggets glistening in it. After in- able to relocate the spot where they had it isn't, it still is an interesting thought.
vestigating the area, they found a large found it. Since then, many other pros- By the way, Belle McKeever — re-
outcropping of quartz containing an pectors and treasure hunters have ex- member her? — she was never found!
abundance of gold. The soldiers chipped plored the area using the information ob- To get to the ruins of Harqua Hala,
out nearly 50 pounds of the ore and tained from the two soldiers. None, as take Highway 60 to Salome, and then
placed it on their one remaining horse. yet, have had any success. head south on the Harqua Hala Mine
They then proceeded to once again The locations where most of the Road for about 12 miles. The dumps can
head toward the Cila River. They mis- searching has taken place have been in be seen on the hills, and the remains of
judged the severity of the intense desert the Granite Wash Mountains which are the town can be reached by driving to the
heat, however, and after only a day of near the Harquhalas. This does not base of the mountain. The road is not a
travel, the horse died with the precious necessarily mean that the gold is actual- bad dirt road, but it is rough in some
cargo on its back. The three men, also ly in the Granite Wash Mountains, how- places. If you do decide to visit this in-
feeling the effects of the desert's shade- ever. In fact, with all of the searching teresting townsite, be sure to drive care-
less heat, continued toward their des- that has taken place in those mountains, fully, keeping in mind that it is a desert
tination. Shortly thereafter, Sergeant many feel that the gold isn't in that loca- area and can get very hot during the
Crossthwaite collapsed and was unable tion at all. Keep in mind that the sol- summer months.

Desert/September 1979 27
A CARNIVOROUS PLANT by WAYNE P.
ARMSTRONG

Here is an author
who went to great
lengths to illustrate
this article, wading
waist-deep into
a cold, slimy pond.
Then, using a
Bausch and Lomb
dissecting
microscope with
a built-in camera
adapter, produced
these incredible
photos!

Underwater view of
slender branchlets
bearing tiny bladder
traps. Note the bristly
hairs at the entrance
to the bladders.

iF ALL THE PLACES to find an dino Mountains and surfaces southeast ciate knowing its precise location.
insect-eating plant in southern Cali- of Victorville. The bladderworts grow in The bladderwort flower is similar in
I fornia, the Mojave Desert seems a slough area surrounded by dense cat- size and shape to a snapdragon except it
about as unlikely as any. This is es- tails, bulrushes, and willows. This is has a conspicuous, slender, lower spur.
pecially true since most carnivorous truly a haven for numerous kinds of Several flowers are borne on erect, leaf-
plants in North America grow in marshy birds, colorful dragonflies, and a symph- less stalks that emerge from the water
or boggy habitats with abundant water. ony of frogs and crickets on a warm sum- during the late summer. Sometimes the
Surprisingly enough, there is a marsh mer evening. dense masses of flower stalks and bright
area about one mile east of Victorville The bladderwort is the only true native yellow flowers resemble a yellow carpet
that contains an amazing insectivorous insectivorous plant in southern Califor- across the pond. Just below the water
plant called the bladderwort [Utricularia nia — except perhaps for pitcher plants, surface the base of the flower stalk or
vulgaris]. This remarkable area is part of sundews, and Venus flytraps grown in aerial shoot arises from several main
the Mojave Narrows Regional Park, one terrariums. There are actually several branches, each with numerous, feathery,
of San Bernardino County's most beauti- • different species native to California, finely-divided branchlets. Some authori-
ful and spacious parks. The park generally in streams, lakes, and meadow ties consider these masses of feathery
includes a lush growth of willows and areas of central and northern California. branchlets to be the actual leaves.
cottonwoods, grassy meadows, acres of They also occur across the United States In some ponds the feathery branchlets
peaceful waterways, pedal boats, and and in tropical regions of North America. or leaves form a continuous mass of
excellent picnic and camping facilities. The species of bladderwort growing at green filaments from bank to bank, and
At the north end is a pristine freshwater Victorville has a very large distribution, provide the habitats for an incredible ar-
marsh and valuable wildlife refuge, in- including Alaska, the Atlantic Coast, and ray of aquatic insects — from water
cluding the unusual bladderworts. Eurasia. It is interesting that this plant beetles to immature dragonflies. The
This magnificent water wonderland has never been reported from other lakes insects in turn provide the food for small
originates from the underground Mojave and ponds of southern California. In fact, fish and amphibians, and so begins the
River which drains from the San Bernar- if anyone finds it I would greatly appre- intricate food web of a freshwater pond.
28
THE MOJAVE DESERT

Magnified view of single


bladder containing a
trapped copepod, a
minute crustacean related
to shrimp and crayfish.
The tail, legs and
antennae of the copepod
are clearly visible.
The entire bladder
is only about the size
of an ordinary pinhead!

There are no true roots and the entire in structure and function in the botanical Numerous,, tiny, four-pointed glands
plant is suspended in water, absorbing world. Each minute oval or egg-shaped (called quadrifid glands) inside the blad-
nutrients directly from the pond. bladder is attached to the feathery leaves der absorb most of the internal water
Probably the most fascinating thing by a tiny stalk. At one end is an open- and expel it on the outside. As a result a
about bladderworts are the thousands of ing and a flap of tissue which forms the partial vacuum is produced inside the
minute bladders attached to the feathery door. The door hangs down from the top bladder and the pressure on the outside
leaves. The flattened, urn-shaped blad- of the entrance like a garage door, ex- becomes greater than inside. This
ders range in diameter from two milli- cept it opens inwardly. Support tissue causes the walls to squeeze inward and
meters (the size of a pinhead) to about surrounding the opening functions like a explains their slightly concave
four millimeters (the size of a BB). The doorstop and doorsill or threshold on a appearance.
common name bladderwort is derived door frame and helps to seal the door, The airtight door is hinged to allow
from their unique bladders and an old preventing water from entering the blad- easy entry; but like a door, cannot be
English word for plant (wort). The gene- der. A mucilage coating around the en- forced open from within. Special trigger
ric name Utricularia is derived from the trance also helps to make it waterproof. hairs near the base of the door cause it to
Latin, utriculus, a little bladder; while The opening is surrounded by several open. There are several explanations for
the specific epithet, vulgaris. refers to its bristly hairs that look something like the the exact mechanism by which the door
common occurrence. To me it is a plea- antennae of a tiny crustacean or insect. opens. When a minute aquatic insect or
sure learning logical common and scien- In fact, it has been suggested that cer- crustacean touches or hits one of these
tific plant names like these, compared to tain minute crustaceans, such as water extremely senstive hairs, the hair acts as
irrational names like "bouncing bet" fleas, may be deceived or perhaps se- a lever, multiplying the force of impact
and "bastard toadflax"! duced by the bladder's extraordinary re- and bending or distorting the very pli-
To really appreciate this remarkable semblance to one of their own kind. able and delicate door. This breaks the
plant you must know a little about the Nectar-producing glands on the outer watertight seal and, since the bladder
marvelous bladder or insect trap. It is surface of the door also apparently act as contains a partial vacuum, the hapless
probably one of the most delicate organs a lure. victim is literally sucked in. There also

Desert/September 1979 29
may be an electrochemical impulse or
stimulus that relaxes the doorsill tissue
thus freeing the door to suddenly flip in-
ward. Anyway, the whole trapping pro-
cess has been estimated to occur in less
than 1/100 of a second.
Over a period of 15 to 45 minutes the Bladderwort flower
trap is reset by expelling water and re- stalk [above left]
creating the partial vacuum within. If emerging from pond
you lift a mass of bladderwort branches in late summer.
out of the water it sounds like a bowl of Note mass of
Rice Krispies and milk! Apparently branchlets just
stress on the hundreds of tiny, flimsy beneath water surface.
bladders causes them to spring open and Close-up view
air bubbles pop into them. [above right] of several
Once inside the bladder there is no es- bladderwort flowers.
cape, and the tiny organism is eventual- The bright yellow
ly broken down through bacterial action. flower resembles a
Bladder extracts from some species snapdragon except it
indicate that enzymes may also be in- has a prominent lower
volved. Essential elements, such as ni- spur. Verdant pasture
trogen, are absorbed through the walls land [right] of
of the bladder and thus the bladderwort Kemper-Cambell Ranch
is truly a carnivore. Old bladders often along northern boundary
become dark colored and may contain of Mojave Narrows
the decayed remains of many aquatic Regional Park.
nocort/Sontomhor 1Q7Q &J.
organisms. The bladders are capable of moccasins, or quicksand at Mojave Nar- the bladderwort has one of the most pre-
capturing a variety of small organisms rows. Ideally, to photograph the bladder cise and delicate traps, and certainly the
including insect larvae, tiny worms, traps you need a microscope with a cam- most rapid. There may be other unre-
small tadpoles, newly hatched fish, and era adapter and a bright illuminating ported locations for wild bladderworts in
microcrustaceans, such as water fleas •beam that doesn't produce too much southern California, but at present the
(Daphnia) and copepods. Longer larvae heat. When viewing through a micro- Mojave Narrows region appears to be
and worms may be gradually sucked in scope, tiny air bubbles will create water the only documented location. I am prob-
and digested piece by piece, analogous movements that make the bladders look ably prejudiced, but I think it is one of
to a snake ingesting a large prey. The like they are in a typhoon. nature's most interesting and beautiful
ravenous appetite of some bladderworts Nitrogen is an essential element for all wildflowers — even though its common
for mosquito larvae make them a poten- plants and it is abundant in the atmos- name sound more like a urinary
tially useful method of biological control. phere and in the decaying organic mat- disorder!
A tropical bladderwort that lives in pools ter of ponds and bogs where insectivor- Even if you aren't interested in blad-
of water within vaselike bromeliads high ous plants commonly grow. However, derworts, the Mojave Narrows Regional
in the rain forest has been known to cap- the primary usable form of nitrogen for Park is a great place for a relaxing and
ture tiny tree frogs. This incredible blad- plants are nitrates, produced from the enjoyable picnic or camping trip. •
derwort sends out aerial runners to find decay of organic matter by the action of
and colonize other bromeliads. A giant certain bacteria. Bogs containing insecti-
bladderwort would make an excellent vorous plants are commonly too acidic "The original of this painting not for sale. Now
in the collection of Dr. & Mrs. R. S. Baddour,
science fiction movie! for the nitrate-forming bacteria. Herein Palm Springs, California."
Photographing the bladderwort flow- lies the adaptive advantage of capturing
ers and bladders can be a real challenge insects as a supplemental source of us-
and a test of your patience and endur- able nitrogen. There are also other rea-
ance. You may have to wade out into a •sons for diminished nitrogen in areas
pond up to your waist to get close to a where insectivorous plants thrive.
good photogenic flower stalk in full The incredible role reversal whereby a
bloom. Just make sure you don't slip or plant actually eats an animal is fascinat-
slide into a deep place and submerge ing. From an evolutionary viewpoint the
your camera! Unlike Okefenokee Swamp plant had to develop a successful trap,
in southern Georgia you don't have to and manufacture a method to digest the
worry too much about alligators, water captured animals. From an engineering
standpoint the bladderwort trap is an ab-
solute materspiece of ingenuity and de-
sign. How it evolved through millions of
years of natural selections is mind- Sae at VtAOX. MAGAZINE'S
WESTERN ART GALLERY Seethtm. afc

staggering. 74-425 HIGHWAY 111


PALM DESERT, CALIF.
Carnivorous plants are certainly not a
common find in our southwest deserts.
In fact, if it weren't for the Mojave River
MOVING?
you wouldn't find the bladderwort grow-
SO YOU WILL NOT MISS AN ISSUE
ing in Victorville. Since the plant is com- NOTIFY US AS SOON AS POSSIBLE
pletely submerged it is scarcely visible Be sure to include old address
most of the year, until late summer when as well as the new
it blooms. Of all the insectivorous plants AND BOTH ZIP CODES!

GORDON
IMMII & Minoral
5555 Atlantic Ave., Long Beach, Calif. 90805
Phone (213) 428-6496
Open Monday thru Friday, 9 to 5:30—Saturday 9 to 5

'GEORGE T O P H A M of Tucson, Arizona will demonstrate


ELECTROFORMING & JEWELERY ELECTROPLATING at
GORDON'S Sat., Sept. 29th from 9:00 am to 5:30 pm.
Write for FREE ALL NEW GEM SHOPPER
Faff
by R.G. STARLING, JR.

monethe
boundless scenic landscapes
of our great Southwestern United States,
there are a few places that have achieved
the distinction of photographic
landmarks. This distinction is bestowed
by a group of judges, photographers and
nature lovers really, that have taken so
many pictures of that particular scene or
object, and passed the word along, that
by the sheer weight of numbers, it has
become a photographic landmark. One
such landmark is atop a sparse, dry,
granite knob in Yosemite National Park,
California. Sentinel Dome, as the knob is
called, was created in the sometime
millennia during the period that laid
down sediment, was upthrust,
encroached by volcanic entrusion, and
finally eroded to its present form along
with the gorge that is now Yosemite. The
top of the dome is rather barren except
for a stepped shelf and some large
boulders that are unceremoniously
grouped near the center of its
comparatively flat summit.

Sometime during the last 100 years or


so, a seed from the cone of a J effrey Pine
lodged in a crevice on the windward
edge of the shelf. It germinated from
moisture that was trapped in the crevice,
took root, and started to grow, and while
it grew it was subject to all of the brutal
whims and ravages of Nature. Battered
by driving rain, frozen by the snows
impacted by the winds of harsh winters, Twisted Jeffrey Pine atop Sentinel Dome.
«2 Continued on Page 37
Desert/September 1979
Photo by author.
Desert/September 1979 33
i
NATURAL REACTION to the word
"rodent" is one of dislike, or even
fear. However, those who limit this
animal classification to the common rat
or mouse should be interested in the
fact, that, of the several orders of mam-
mals in the world, Rodentia is the larg-
est. It includes such charming creatures
as chipmunks, squirrels, porcupines,
beavers, hamsters, guinea pigs, chin-
chillas, and many other small mammals.
Even rabbits and hares were considered
to be rodents until a recent change in
their classification.
Each of these animals serves a useful

KANqAROO
purpose in the scheme of things. As the
famous naturalist and conservationist,
John Muir, stated many years ago,
"When we try to pick up anything by it-
self we find it attached to everything in
the universe." With this thought in

RATS mind, it is important that we allow Na-


ture to regulate the balance between all
living things without interference from
man. Such factors as loss or alteration of
habitat associated with urbanization,
agriculture, flood control, and water de-
byJACKDELANEY velopment, contribute heavily to the de-
mise of many life forms. Even extension
of freeway systems and the introduction They seldom utter any vocal sounds; but avoid the points on her long hind claws!
of new recreation areas take their toll. they do have a method of communica- These animals live on a diet consisting
An excellent example of an endan- tion by thumping the ground with their of air-dried seeds; and an interesting
gered animal is the fascinating little hind feet. If you would like to carry on a fact is that their need for water is prac-
creature known as the Morro Bay kanga- conversation with one of these creatures, tically non-existent. They fare very well
roo rat. Its distant cousins, the Fresno just approach its burrow very quietly and without it for months. The explanation
kangaroo rat and Stephen's kangaroo rat slap the entrance lightly with your open for this phenomenon is that a complex
are considered to be rare at the present hand. If anyone is home in the burrow, chemical process within their bodies cre-
time. According to the California Fish you'll hear an answering thump. Should ates water from their dry-seed diet dur-
and Game Commission classifications, you not hear a thump, try another en- ing the course of digestion. Also, they
endangered means that the continued trance. Their burrows consist of many suffer no water loss "under the arms"
existence of the species is in doubt be- tunnels, entrances, and escape hatches. because they do not perspire. During the
cause of a number of conditions that They are designed to serve as safe hav- hot summer months, they block out the
have resulted in a mortality rate consis- ens from a number of natural enemies. dry heat and increase the humidity level
tently higher than the birth rate. Rare When captured by man, these charm- in their burrows by sealing off the en-
means that the present population of the ing rodents make gentle pets. In their trances and exits with earth.
subject is so limited that a further re- natural state, however, they are ex- The Morro Bay kangaroo rat, classi-
duction would cause it to become tremely unsociable with their brother fied as an endangered species, has small
endangered. rats. When, by coincidence, they are front feet and large hind ones, which en-
Kangaroo rats are interesting animals. brought together in Nature, vicious able it to jump kangaroo fashion. It is the
fights usually occur. These are quite of- darkest colored of all kangaroo rats, with
ten fights to the death! The weapons a white hip stripe that distinguishes it
The Fresno kangaroo rat, left, as photo- used are the long hind claws with which from other sub-species. In 1957 its
graphed by Walt Hoffman of the Califor- they rake and tear their opponents. Even stamping grounds consisted of 4.8
nia Department of Fish and Came. the female has an unsociable streak. square miles of sandy soil on the south
Morro Bay kangaroo rat, below, was When she is rearing young, she tells her side of Morro Bay. This habitat has been
taken by Dr. Clenn R. Stewart, Professor mate to "get lost!" He always complies reduced to 1.7 square miles, due to the
of Zoology at California State Polytechnic — not because he wants to make points continued growth of the Los Osos and
University at Pomona. with his bride, but because he wants to Baywood communities. Even predation
by house cats is contributing to the subdivisions, and recreation develop- their efforts in behalf of threatened and
struggle for survival of this attractive ments. However, small numbers con- rare wildlife. This government office has
creature. tinue to exist in areas of abandoned agri- determined that, at present, there is a
The Fresno kangaroo rat, also dark cultural land not yet touched by the total of 49 species of fish, amphibians,
colored, is the smallest of the kangaroo march of progress. Steven's kangaroo reptiles, birds, and mammals facing the
ras. It was first discovered in 1891 in rat is considered to be rare, but its possibility of extinction from a variety of
Fresno. After having been considered to situation is being carefully watched for causes in this state. The breakdown is 25
be extinct for many years, it was redis- indications of further encroachment on endangered and 24 rare species of ani-
covered in 1934 near Kerman (San its limited living area. mals. Authorization for the program was
Joaquin Valley). At present, its only A number of other sub-species are provided by the Ecological Reserve Act
known location is near Raisin City in the getting along nicely on their own. (1968) and partial financing by the En-
same general area. Because of its small Among the non-endangered and non- vironmental Protection Program Act
population, its classification is rare. Irri- rare specimens are: the medium-sized (1970), through the sale of personalized
gated agriculture and urbanization have Nimble kangaroo rat which can be seen license plates for California cars.

Stephen's
kangaroo rat
which was
captured on film
by James
Thomas of the
California
Department of
Fish and Game.

destroyed most of its historical habitat. It along the southern California coast; the It is interesting that when a motorist
is likely that this animal will be de- small Mirriam kangaroo rat, a resident purchases a license plate with a vital
clared endangered in the near future; of the southeastern third of the state; message, such as " S A M E - 2 - U " or
and increased action will be taken to en- and the large Desert kangaroo rat which "U-2-BUD," he is actually helping some
sure its continued existence. is present in adequate numbers in the unfortunate animal to continue its exis-
The Stephen's kangaroo rat is a lighter Mojave and Colorado deserts to south- tence on this earth. The importance of
colored small specimen found in San ern California. There are other sub-spe- saving our wildlife was expressed early
Jacinto Valley (Riverside County), with cies enjoying life in Arizona, New Mex- this century by the famous scientist, ex-
small populations present in northwest- ico, and California; but those mentioned plorer, and author, William Beebe. His
ern San Diego County. It can be found in here are the best known of these rodents thought-provoking statement was:
only 16 isolated localities of southern who have chosen this state as their fav- "When the last individual of a race of
California. Most of its original habitat orite home grounds. living things breathes no more, another
has been destroyed by land use change Credit should be given to the Cali- Heaven and another Earth must pass
from rural to industrial projects, housing fornia Department of Fish and Came for before such a one can be again!" •

36 Desert/ September 1979


in the forming stage, to create the scenic
Full Circle wonders that have become our heritage, RIVERSIDE COUNTY'S LARGEST
Continued from Page 32 4-WHEEL-DRIVE HEADQUARTERS
but occasionally it tires of a portion of its
handiwork and exacts a change. Accessories for All Makes
and parched by drought from the searing Sometimes that change is abrupt.
summer sun, the J effrey Pine weathered
them all and continued to grow.
Witnessing the occurence or aftermath
of such a change leaves one with the
feeling of perplexity because of the
n Jeep
damage or destruction. One may even
JOHNSON'S 4WD CENTER, INC
It clung tenaciously to the rock shelf that
7590 Cypress [at Van Buren]
spawned it as it was twisted and gnarled ask the question — " W h y " ? , but an
P. 0 Box 4277
by the constant winds that howl over the answer is never forthcoming. Riverside, California 92504
rim of Yosemite Canyon. Years passed Telephone [714] 785-1330
and the lone tree continued to eke an In retrospect, the little pine never grew
existence out of the sparse surroundings to be a very large tree because of its
and eventually achieve a stature of some environment. An average-sized adult
merit. But Nature, in its devious way, could stand on the shelf to which it clung TREASURE HUNTERS
had other plans. It didn't include the and have one's head almost in its — PROSPECTORS —
Jeffrey Pine in its Master Design and set topmost branches. The tree may have Metal-Mineral Detectors
about putting in motion a series of been taller at one time for it appears DREDGES
events that were to tax the little pine's DRY WASHERS MAPS
that a vertical limb of unknown length BOOKS TOOLS ASSAY KIT
endurance drastically. Nature can be was broken off, possibly during one of SLUICE BOXES MINERAL LIGHTS
cruel in its way, but I guess that is the the howling gales of some time past. LAPIDARY EQUIPMENT
scheme of things. Send 25c for catalog to:

Because of its shape, character, and AURORA


6286 BEACH Bl VD.
The rains came at fewer intervals and location, the tree became a photographic BUENA PARK, CALIF. 90620
when they did come, they were of lesser landmark. Thousands of photographs of [714]521-6321
quantity. During the so-called rainy the J effrey Pine were taken by amateur COE PROSPECTOR SUPPLY
season, months would go by with no and professional alike. It has been said 9264 KATELLA
moisture at all except the little amount of ANAHEIM. CALIF. 92804
that the J effrey Pine was the most
|714| 995-1703
dew that would settle in the early photographed tree in the world —
morning hours before the sun broke over maybe, but in California, certainly,
the horizon. The winters appeared to be Many a landscape photographer as
of shorter duration with hardly any snow well as scores of nature lovers trudged
PARADISE LODGE
falling around the little pine. What little
did fall was blown away by the constant
the trail to the top of the dome to
photograph the little pine and marvel at
Travel Trailer
winds, depriving the tree of its supply of
moisture to survive. The summer sun
its tenacity to life. & Camper Park
COMPLETE HOOKUPS
beat down hotter, longer, drying out It had a friendly nature, this little pine, 15 MILES NORTH OF BISHOP
what moisture had accumulated in the and when one had climbed the last few ON LOWER ROCK CREEK
crevice at the base of the tree. yards of trail to its solitary stand, it • Fishing at your Campsite
seemed to greet you with a cheerful • Overniters Welcome
The little pine, defying the Master rustling of its needles from the sighing of • Daily, Weekly, Monthly Rates
Design, continued to survive, but the the wind through its branches. On a hot • Restaurant & Cocktail Bar
five to seven years of lower than average summer day, as you rested in the shade • Housekeeping Cottages
moisture had severely weakened it. Then of the little pine's branches from the • Hiking — Nature Trails
• Storage Area - Low Rates
in 1977, Nature delivered its coup de rigors of the climb, the delectable aroma
• Secluded Area
grace in the form of the worst recorded of its needles became apparent to your
dry period in 80-odd years which became senses during a sometimes windless MILES TO ...
Pleasant Valley
the final straw for the gnarled little tree. period. Reservoir 3
I've been told that many a person Tom's Place 8
endured the hot, half-mile trek, from the Crowley Lake 12
All living things must eventually die and Mammoth 25
turn-out on the Glacier Point Road, to it is sad that some must go seemingly
How To Get There
the top of Sentinel Dome, just to carry before their time. The pine's life cycle Onve North of Bishop
life-sustaining water to the dying tree. had progressed full circle and is now
on Hwy. 395 lor 12
'Hilt^s lake Lowei
But it was too little, too late, and complete. No longer will it stand its Rork C.eek Road al
foot of Shetwin
sometime during the summer of 1977, lonely vigil atop Sentinel Dome, no more grade then 3 miles
Paradise Lodge
the Jeffrey Pine went the way we all will it offer pleasure and the scent of its
Fot Reservations, write, phone or drop in:
must eventually go. needles to those that climb to its
PARADISE LODGE
secluded place. It will be sorely missed.
Route 2, Bishop, California 93514
Nature went to great lengths and detail, • Phone (Area Code 714) 387 2370

Desert/September 1979 37
NO. 34 IN A SERIES ON
CALIFORNIA PALM OASES

Soutk fotk of
I3aw UJiltaw Congou
by DICK BLOOMQUIST

M
ANY TALES are told concerning the Sombrero Peak, over
naming of Bow Willow Canyon. The 4000 feet high, is the
most widely accepted explanation most prominent landmark
recounts how the Diegueno Indians got in the Bow Willow
willow wood for their bows there. Other country. View is from
versions maintain that the canyon was Sweeney Pass on Highway S2.
originally called "Bull Willow" because
a man lost a bull in its depths or be- stream, but before we begin hiking, tery fragments are scattered about in
cause bulls once gathered there; another some other nearby points of interest many places, and outcrops on the ele-
account traces the name to a vigorous should be noted. First, the main chan- vated flat upstream and to the right from
stand of willows ( " b u l l " willows, there- nel of Bow Willow Canyon straight our parking spot contain several Diegue-
fore). But whether it be " b o w " or ahead also has palms, many of which are no grinding holes.
" b u l l , " the trees in question are not true visible from the valley, but a thorough Now underway toward the South Fork
willows, but desert willows [Chilopsis exploration of this oasis involves consid- oasis, I soon reached a point where the
linearis], deciduous members of the tributary entered the mountains and be-
bigonia family having long, narrow gan to wind. Then I caught a glimpse of
leaves and pinkish-white flowers. MILEAGELOG flashing palm crowns not far ahead and
The first leg of our journey to the 0.0 Junction of San Diego County Road
before long was standing beneath the
South Fork is over a good dirt road link- S2 and dirt road to Mountain Palm trees — six dignified veterans between
ing Highway S2 with the state park's Springs Primitive Camp in southern 30 and 35 feet in height arrayed in
part of Anza-Borrego Desert State
Bow Willow Campground and Ranger ground-length "grass skirts." Despite
Park. Drive south on S2 toward In-
Station. Visitors may obtain water from state Highway 8. the absence of surface water, these un-
Bow Willow Spring near the ranger sta- 1.1 Turn right off S2 onto Bow Willow disturbed Washingtonias in their rug-
Campground road (good dirt). ged, rocky canyon impressed me as
tion by working an old-fashioned pump 2.7 Bow Willow Ranger Station and
handle, but a high fluoride content Campground. Bear right, skirting being particularly vigorous and majestic.
makes the water unsuitable for children. campground. Desert lavender, sugar bush, jojoba,
2.9 Turn left up Bow Willow Canyon. De- catsclaw, beavertail cactus, desert tea,
I have seen garnets as well as Indian
pending on conditions, four-wheel-
potsherds on the edge of this small, se- drive may be necessary in places be- brittlebush (also known as "incienso"
cluded campground. yond this point. [Spanish for "incense"], because the
5.7 South Fork palms visible in canyon stems exude a resin that was burned as
On the far side of the camp a sandy off to left (south) of roadway.
track veers left up Bow Willow Canyon, 5.8 Cabin ruins to left of roadway. Park incense by the early padres), and other
with its luxuriant stands of desert wil- near here (road ends short distance plants surround the grove, which prob-
beyond ruins). Palm oasis in South ably lies just inside the state park boun-
low. The route pierces steep walls be- Fork of Bow Willow Canyon is about
fore coming to a halt three miles up- one mile to left (south) of road. Ele-
dary. Beyond the oasis the South Fork
stream in a little valley. A short distance vation at palms roughly 1900 feet. becomes quite steep and rough as it
before the road's end, the low ruins of an makes a bend to the right; there may be
old cowboy cabin will be seen on the left; a few more Washingtonias farther
erable rock climbing, as does the hike to
this stretch of roadway also furnishes a upstream.
a cluster of Washingtonias high on the
convenient place in which to turn around slopes of neighboring Sombrero Peak. It Next along our route is Carrizo Can-
and park. is necessary to move some distance yon, which cleaves the In-Ko-Pah and
From the cabin site, the palm grove in southward into the center of the valley Jacumba ranges south of Bow Willow
the South Fork of Bow Willow Canyon before the Sombrero grove comes into Campground. In tributaries of the main
lies approximately one mile to the left view. Signs of former Indian habitation channel we'll explore three isolated,
(south) of the road as one faces up- make up a second area of interest. Pot- little : known groups of wild palms. •

38 Desert/September 1979
Idyllwild/San Jacinto Mountains as} Ranch is being purchased by the fed- Historic Cedar City
Continued from Page 15 eral government for additional camping Continued from Page 11
and wilderness areas.
The only remaining semi-active mine
Santa Rosa Mountain road, a graded dirt in the San Jacinto-Santa Rosa complex pinyon pines, as it climbs a steep allu-
trail that climbs from 4,500 feet to 8,716 also is nearby. This is the Hemet Belle, vial fan toward a narrow cleft in Hurri-
feet on Toro Peak, a square-mile iso- owned by D.C. Mayne of Hemet for cane Ridge. This cleft is Fiddler Canyon.
lated section of the Santa Rosa Indian many years, still worked sporadically for A number of side roads will be encoun-
Reservation not currently open to motor its known gold content. Many other tered but keep to the main road as indi-
vehicles. abandoned mines are found here and in cated on the map. It is just one and
The Santa Rosas, actually a part of the the north fork canyon of the San Jacin- seven-tenths miles from the highway to
same major mountain system as the San to River northwest of Idyllwild and Pine the base of the ridge.
Jacintos, are generally considered as a Cove. At this point, the road dropped down
separate area because of marked differ- Active cattle ranching continues on (40 feet) into the creek bed and appeared
ences in climatic conditions, terrain, the Garner Ranch and at smaller spreads to end at an old dam. A small stream of
human population and animal life. Both in the Anza-Terwilliger and Reed Valley water hurried down the slope. We
are units of the vast Peninsular Range, a areas of the mountains. parked among the pinyon pines and
1,200-mile-long spine north and south The Old West isn't dead in the San found small agates all around us, as well
from Cabo San Lucas in Baja Cali- Jacintos. It is at least fitfully alive but as in the road.
fornia to the San Gorgonio Pass at sharing the limelight more and more Jerry hiked down to the dam and a
Banning. with the New West, the recreational and short distance up the canyon, while I
The alpine qualities of the San Jacinto- residential expansion brought on by the scouted south along the base of the
Santa Rosa region have made the area continued population pressure from the ridge. Most of the specimens we col-
famous among backpackers and alpin- Los Angeles metropolitan area. lected were small but very colorful —
ists. Lily Rock, adjoining Tahquitz Peak Typical of this new interest are de- red, green, orange-red, white and black
just above Idyll wild and Fern Valley, for velopments such as Silent Valley, a rec- moss. Later, we crossed the creek and
example, is a primary school or training reational vehicle enclave on Poppett found some fist-size chunks on the
site for would-be rock climbers from all Flats near the Banning escarpment at northern slopes. It was a fun day, in a
over California. the north rim of the San Jacintos. There beautiful setting. Rockhounds visiting
The recreational potential of the San are several other residential fixed-home the Cedar City region should also enjoy
Jacinto Mountains is still being discov- and RV oriented developments either collecting Brianhead Agate (Desert,
ered by thousands of Southern Californi- underway or contemplated. April 1978).
ans, particularly in this energy-conscious The old days on the Hill are not for- We found only one campground
period. If the gas crunch tightens, Idyll- gotten, as evidenced by a thriving his- (K.O.A.) in Cedar City and overnight
wild residents can look forward to more torical society at Idyllwild, but they are parking was quite crowded on the
weekend and vacation visitors because it sharing the clear air and the green for- asphalt. They had a half-dozen spaces on
is only 80 miles from Idyllwild to Los An- est vistas with the new days, as more grass among the trees, which were gen-
geles as compared to 250 miles to Yose- and more Southern Californians, now erally occupied by people staying several
mite or Mt. Whitney in the Sierras — more affluent and perhaps more energy weeks or longer. Fortunately, one space
and much of the scenic attraction is conservation-conscious than ever before, was open and we found ourselves happi-
similar. discover this relatively small island in ly parked between a young man attend-
For many San Jacinto Mountains resi- the sky of smoggy Southern California, ing college and a friendly retired couple
dents, particularly those who came there winter and summer. from Long Beach, California.
to slow down or retire, the proximity is In less than a century of man's inten- Our stay in Cedar City was filled with
an uncomfortable possibility. sive use, the San Jacinto Mountains days spent visiting ghost towns, histori-
Perhaps. But for many more, those have become an invaluable resource, a cal sites, old mines and geological points
whose livelihood depends on tourist dol- haven of beauty and open space known of interest. We wandered around the
lars, the mileage factor is a comforting for centuries to the Cahuilla Indians, its Valley and climbed to dizzying heights
facet of life. aboriginal population, but now equally (10,000 feet) on the Markagunt Pleateau.
Garner Valley, much of it now in pub- important to literally millions of visitors. It was late fall and the aspen leaves
lic ownership, offers the safety value for The Cahuilla are still here also, with had faded but the brilliant golden
the mountain area. Huge Lake Hemet, reservations at Santa Rosa and near blooms of rabbit brush greeted us every-
an irrigation reservoir for the Hemet Anza. As their white new-neighbors, the where. A low winter sun seemed to
area, is a potential recreational attrac- Cahuillas are sharing in the re-discovery heighten the colors in the red, pink, tan,
tion just barely tapped up to now, and as well. beige and brown sandstone formations.
primarily used for fishing. The Hill it may be to some, but the San Even the lakes seemed bluer. This com-
The U.S. Forest Service and Riverside Jacinto-Santa Rosa enclave is more than bination of magnificent scenery and un-
County maintain public campgrounds that to most. It is a haven of sanity and limited recreation makes this section of
nearby and considerable acreage of the serenity in the final quarter of the Utah's Color Country a vacationland
nearly 100-year-old Garner (nee Thom- tumultuous 20th Century. • you'll not want to miss. D
Desert/September 1979
Winesap, York, Rome Beauty or Jona-
than. Red or yellow Delicious apples are
eating apples and not for pies or baking.
Red Cinnamon Apple Pie
J ust one look at this pie and everyone
wants a slice. Red Cinnamon candies
give the filling a bright color and true
•cinnamon flavor—and a lattice top lets
the filling peek through.
Make pie dough for top and bottom of
a 9-inch pie pan.
Filling:
Combine VA cup of sugar and Vi cup
pineapple juice and Vi cup of red cinna-
mon candies. Bring to boil and simmer
until all candies are melted.
Prepare 5 cups of sliced tart apples
(about 5 or 6 medium apples). Coat
apples with Vi cup of flour and add to
cinnamon syrup. Cook over medium heat
until thickened, turn into pie shell. Dot
with butter. Cover with lattice strips.
Sprinkle about one tablespoon sugar,
mixed with a small amount of powdered
cinnamon over top of crust. Bake at 425
degrees for about 10 minutes, then turn
down to 350 degrees,, continue baking
until apples are done, perhaps another
30 minutes. Cooking time depends on
type of apples used.

Apples! simple it's hard to believe it's a prize


winner. I've heard some men swear
there's no such thing as a bad apple pie.
Last fall we had a super bumper crop
of apples. Apples overflowed the pantry,
the back porch, the patio and yard.
• LTHOUGH SEPTEMBER ushers in Well, maybe so — but it's a cinch some There were so many apples I spent the
ih the apple season, apples rate high in are better than others, and Apple fall and winter drying them. Just plain
^ a p p e t i t e appeal all year round for Crunch Pie is better than most. dried apples soon palled, and I started
everyone from toddlers to grannies. Apple Crunch Pie experimenting with spices and sweet-
When I started this column on apples, Enough apples sliced thin for one ners for a change. Here are the winners
I thought it would be simple as apple pie. 9-inch pie by grandkids vote.
Well, that's what I thought! There's so 1 cup sugar Peel and core apples, slice and sprin-
derned many really superlative recipes Topping kle with brown sugar and cinnamon over
calling for fresh apples, green apples, Vi cup brown sugar all. Toss in large dishpan until apples are
dried apples, apple sauce, apple cider or Vi cup flour covered, then spread on screens or trays
juice; there's bciked apples, fried, Vi teaspoon cinnamon to dry. I dried mine on a sunny screen
stewed and candied; some have old- Vi cup margarine porch on old door screens. Unless cover-
fashioned names of "apple slump" Vi teaspoon ginger ed with cheese cloth it's impossible to
(dumplings), "apple Charlotte" (pud- Mix enough pie dough for one pie shell. dry sugared apples outside. Jill ions of
ding with meringue), "apple sponge" Line 9-inch pie tin with pastry dough. bees are attracted (and flies) but those
(deep dish lined with slices of sponge Place sliced apples and one cup sugar in using their oven or food dryers have it
cake moistened with wine). Then there's crust. Mix rest of ingredients and spread made. It takes longer to dry fruit with
Apple Pan-dowdy, Apple Brown Betty, over top of pie. Bake at 375 degrees until sugar added, but the time is well spent.
Apple Snow, just to name a few. The apples are done. Another batch was made by adding a
combinations of "apples w i t h " are Good apple pie, naturally, depends on large can of lemonade concentrate
endless. Mated with apples, rice pud- the type of apples used. Tart apples are a (frozen) with a small amount of water,
ding can become a gourmet dish, as the must, and never use over-ripe or mealy and tossing apples in solution until well-
combination of tart apples and cranber- apples for pie. To play safe, if I think covered. Drip-dry a few moments on
ries can become a winner. Any ordinary apples need pepping up, I add some paper toweling, then spread on drying
everyday bread pudding, with apples lemon juice, or even a few drops of cider racks. Again it takes longer but the re-
added becomes a "company" dish. vinegar won't hurt. So, select apples that sulting tangy slices are a real snack
My favorite apple pie sounds so are tart and crisp, such as Mclntosh, treat.

nocort/.QoniomhAr 1Q7Q
Probably the most popular of all are
the apples I dried that were treated with
red cinnamon candies. I melted a large
package of red hots in two cups of water
until all candies were dissolved. Sliced
apples were well coated with the syrup
and dried the usual way. Good.
Dried Apple Cake /Covewtfg an area!r_
TNERlWAtt
2 cups dried apples St^etfrge to C§inef>ville
1 cup sugar ^fid frtfnv"""*""
frtf.nv \
2
A cup butter Kanari & Koosharerh
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 eggs
3 cups flour
1 cup raisins
1 cup molasses
1 cup milk ' W , -V •.
1 teaspoon soda (level)
nutmeg and cinnamon as desired
Soak dried apples in cold water for 3
hours; then chop them about the size of
raisins and boil for 15 minutes in the
molasses. Dissolve soda in a little hot
lilli
water and add to molasses and apples
when cold. Then mix all other ingredi-
ents, beat well and pour into cake pan
that has been greased and dusted with
flour. Bake in moderate oven until done.

Apple and Bread Pudding


Take about one quart of stewed apples
with one cup of raisins, sugar, spices and
lump of butter. Arrange in baking dish,
bread crumbs about three-fourths deep.
Pour apple and raisin mixture over bread
crumbs, then add another layer of bread
crumbs as before. To top, beat three
eggs with one cup of white sugar, two
liiili
cups of milk, Vi teaspoonful vanilla and a
dash of salt. Pour over bread and apples liliiSi
and bake in moderate oven until pudding
is set. Serve with cream, when cold.
Dutch Oven Baked Apples
6 good-sized cooking apples (not
Delicious)
Vi cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1
/4 cup white sugar Featuring 3i\tours or points of
1 cup raisins interest. Most have appeared
nuts if desired iti the pages of past Issues
Core apples, but not completely TRAILS of DESERT MAGAZINE^

7° \
through. Leave a half-inch or so of core
in the bottom. Mix sugar and spices with
raisins and stuff center of apples with FfOJNTS OF FNTEREST * \AddMepo«age/handlino
mixture. Dot tops with real butter. Place 4-
/ ( | U R - W H E E L - D R I V E ROADS\ calif, reiiderftlpiease^dS°mm'MHta^
close together in Dutch oven or baking / I • '"
pan. Pour several cups of water in bot- Order today from:
tom of baking container and bake until
apples are tender. • D E S E R T IVlAC^AZINE P.O. Box 1318,Palm Desert, California 92260

Desert/September 1979 41
• BOOKS-MAGAZINES • MAPS MISCELLANEOUS
YES, THERE REALLY is a Cucamonga. "Light OLD STATE, Railroad, County Maps. 70-110 COLLECTORS' ITEMS—Authentic 1800's rail-
Over the Mountain" (revised edition). A roman- years old. All States. Stamp for catalog. road stocks engraved with high smokestack loco-
tic look at the history of Cucamonga, California. Northern Map, Dept. DM, Dunnellon, Fl. 32630. motives—framed or unframed. Free list. Helen
Over 300 pages and 70 photos. Clothbound. Ford, 1110 Miller Place, Golden, Colorado 80401
$11.95 including $1.00 postage and handling.
California residents please add 66c sales tax.
California Family House, Dept. DM, P. O. Box
BELLEW MEMORIAL ARTHRITIS Medical
1418, Upland, California 91786. • MINING Clinic, D.H.S., Calif. Practice limited to the
Bellew Vaccine Method of treating arthritis.
Desert sun and climate. Phone 714-329-8723.
DESERT MAGA2IINES—April 1940, Vol. 3,No. ASSAYS—Gold & Silver $10.00. High quality Write P. O. Box 305, D.H.S., California 92240.
6 to February 1977, Vol. 40, No. 2. $300.00 or spectrographic analysis for 65 metals $9.00.
best offer. F.O.B. Lyons, Colorado. Don Jordan, Free price list. Reed Engineering, 2166 College
P. O. Box 486, Lyons, Colorado 80540. Phone Ave., Costa Mesa, Calif. 92627.
303-823-6775.
HOW TO
• BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES
PROSPECTING
__L
PLACE YOUR
DRYWASHERS! GOLD CONCENTRATORS!
Guaranteed to recover minerals, gold. A hobby
TRADING POST AD
50 FIRMS seeking mailers, homeworkers, ad-
dressers. For list rush $1.00, stamped, self-ad that pays for itself! Write to: Nick's Nugget, Mail your copy and first-insertion remittance
dressed envelope. Darene Cowan, 159 Main St., P. O. Box 1081, Fontana, California 92335. (714) to: Trading Post, Desert Magazine, Palm
Rogersford, PA 19'468. 822-2846. Desert, Calif. 92260. Classified rates are 25c
per word, $5.00 minimum per insertion.

EARN UP TO $500.00 monthly in spare time PLACER GOLD $2.00, Black sand and placer
clipping news items from local newspapers. gold (mixed), $2.00. Placer Gold Nuggets $1.00
More details, rush 25c and self-addressed to $300.00 sizes. Prospector Jack Ward, Box Deadline for
stamped envelope to McAuley Enterprises, 380, Sandia Park, New Mexico 87047. Classified Ads
P.O.Box 567b, Lancaster, Calif. 93534. is 10th of second
month preceding
CAL-GOLD announces the opening of its new cover date.
YOU CAN write, publish, distribute and keep store at 2400 East Foothill, Pasadena, California
the profits on your how-to-do-it book as I am 91107. Metal detectors, maps, books, prospect-
doing now. Details $3.00. CBC, P. O. Box 2591, ing equipment. Write for catalog and details of
ChulaVista, California92012. grand opening contest.

$20,000/MONTH possible in mailorder! Free


details. Send #10 self-addressed, stamped en-
velope to: Stimson, Box 249-la, Lakewood, Calif. • REAL ESTATE
90714.
Clyde Forsythe's Famous . . .
NORTHEASTERN NEVADA desert round red-

• DESERT PAINTINGS ART


wood home 41/2 years old w/vw. on 5 acres. 2400
sq. ft., 3 BRs, 3 Baths, Family Room, 2 car gar-
age, fully panelled and insulated. Taxes approxi-
mately $500 year. $120,000.00 702-738-8732
eves.
Gold Strike
SEE KINGSLEY OSMUND HARRIS original
Desert Paintings display in Desert Magazine's
Western Art Gallery, Palm Desert, California.
• SEEDS & PLANTS
Series
Four Mining Camp Scenes
JOJOBA—25 clean seed, instructions. $1.50
• EQUIPMENT prepaid. Indian Trail Nursery, Star Rt. 2, Box All In 4-Color
75, Twentynine Palms, California 92277.
Each 1 4 " x l 7 " with white margins
PRECISION LAPIDARY Abrasive Compounds on high quality paper suitable for
for tumbling, polishing and grinding. Send for
free catalogue and price list. MDC Industries, • TREASURE FINDERS framing.
400 West Glenwood Avenue, Philadelphia, PA.
19140. Dealer Inquiries invited. No lettering or folds.
TREASURE—Locate quarter mile away with ul-
trasensitive locator—brochure free. Research

GEMS
SHAMROCK ROCK SHOP, 593 West La Ca-
Products, Box 13441-BUC, Tampa, Florida
33611
$500
dena Dr., Riverside, California 92501. Parallel to INSTANT RICHES—Explore ghost towns. Find Mall all orders to:
Riverside Freeway. Phone 686-3956. Come in buried treasure, coins, relics, antiques, and
and browse; jewelry mountings, chains, sup- more. Goldak—the finest "Metal and Treasure DESERT Magazine
plies, minerals, slabs, rough material, equip- Locators since 1933." Send for free catalog. Box 1318
ment, black lights, metal detectors, maps, rock Goldak, Dept. D, 626 Sonora Avenue, Glendale, Palm Desert, Calif. 92260
and bottle books. California 91201.
42
MAPS! WORTH
MAPS! SAVING!
MOST OF OUR READERS SAVE THEIR
DESERT OVERVIEW MAPS DESERT MAGAZINES FOR FUTURE REFER-
Using topographic rnaps as basic under- EACH
lays, are two excellently detailed maps for ENCE AND READING PLEASURE. THE BEST
back country explorers of the Mojave and Including tax and postage WAY TO KEEP YOUR BACK ISSUES IS IN
Colorado Deserts. Maps show highways, OUR ATTRACTIVE SPECIALLY-MADE
gravel routes, Jeep trails, plus historic Gold embossed on brown vinyl. Space for
routes and sites, old wells, which are not on

BINDERS
modern-day maps, plus ghost towns, 12 magazines easily inserted. A beautiful
Indian sites, etc. Mojave Desert Overview and practical addition to your home book-
covers from U.S. 395 at Little Lake to Boul- shelf.
der City, Nevada, to Parker Dam to Victor-
ville. Colorado Desert Overview covers
from the Mexican border to Joshua Tree
National Monument to Banning to the Ari-
zona side of the Colorado River. Be certain
to state which map when ordering.
DESERT
$3.00 each P. O. BOX 1318, PALM DESERT, CALIFORNIA 92260)
ANZA-BORREGO DESERT STATE PARK
TOPOGRAPHIC MAPS
A set of 7 maps covering the Anza-Borrego September 1979
Desert State Park, 8 1 /2"x11" format, spiral REPLACEABLE SUBSCRIPTION FORM
bound. $5.50
Check here if you
JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL MONUMENT wish this issue replaced.
UPDATED TOPOGRAPHIC MAPS
A set of 12 maps covering the Joshua Tree P. 0. Box 1318, Palm Desert, California 92260
National Monument, 8 1 /2"x11" format,
spiral bound. $7.95
• ENTER A NEW SUBSCRIPTION C RENEW MY PRESENT SUBSCRIPTION
MAP OF PIONEER TRAILS
Compiled by Varna Enterprises, this is NAME
their new large map on pioneer trails blaz-
ed from 1541 through 1867 in the western
United States. Superimposed in red on ADDRESS
black and white, 37"x45" $4.00
ZIP CODE
ROADMAP TO CALIFORNIA'S LOST
MINES AND BURIED TREASURES
Compiled by Varna Enterprises, 38"x25" D SENDGIFTSUBSCRIPTiONTO:
and scaled Southern California on one side
and Northern California on the other. $4.00 NAME
MAPS OF THE OLD WEST
Printed in two colors on rich Parchment ADDRESS
papers; each map has the rustic appeal of
the Old West. Hundreds of sites—names,
dates and descriptions of places and events
associated with the Old West, including
ghost towns, old forts, old mines, lost and Sign Gift Card: •'From

legendary gold, Indian tribes, battle sites


and early trails.
Arizona Lost Mines & Ghost Towns $1.50 NAME
Calif. Lost Mines & Ghost Towns $1.50
Nevada Lost Mines & Ghost Towns $1.50 ADDRESS
(Each above map 17"x22")
The Historic West—23'.'x30" $2.00
(Includes the 11 western states)
Arizona Treasure Map—30"x38" $2.00
(Field Map) Sign Gift Card "From
Please add 50c for Postage/handling One Year $9.00
• PAYMENT ENCLOSED D BILL ME LATER
Calif, residents add 6% state sales tax
Two Years 17.00
Order from (Or Two 1-Year) Q ALSO SEND DESERT'S 12-ISSUE
Three Years 25.00 HANDSOME BROWN VINYL BINDER FOR
. Magazine Book Shop (Or three 1-Year) $5 50 (Includes tax and postage)
P. O Box 1318, Palm Desert, Calif. 92260 Foreign subscribers add $2.00/year postage. Date Binder(s) with Year(s) • Undated

Desert/September 1979 43
Send orders to
Box 1318
Palm Desert, California 92260

GHOST TOWNS OF THE COLORADO ROCK- GHOST TOWN: El Dorado by Lambert Florin. WESTERN GEM HUNTERS ATLAS by Cy
IES by Robert L. Brown. Written by the author The colorful, outrageous characters of the West- Johnson and Son. A helpful book of detailed
of Jeep Trails to Colorado Ghost Towns, this ern mining towns come to life on every page of maps showing gem and mineral locations, from
book deals with ghost towns accessible by pas- this fascinating volume crammed with photos of California to the Dakotas and British Columbia
senger car. Gives directions and maps for find- ghost towns in Colorado, California, Arizona, to Texas. Markings note private claims, gem
ing towns along with historical backgrounds. Utah, etc., plus exciting history and anecdotes. claims (fee charged) and rock and gem locations.
Hardcover, 401 pages, $9.95. 246 photos and illustrations. Large format, hard- Also suggested reading for more detail on areas
cover, originally published at $12.95, now priced included and other rich areas not included in this
HISTORICAL ATLAS OF CALIFORNIA by War- at $5.95.
ren A. Beck and Ynez D. Hasse. Extensive docu- publication. Paperback, maps galore, collec-
mentation and pertinent detail make this atlas a tor's library, 79 pages, $4.00
valuable aid to the student, scholar and every MINES OF THE MOJAVE by Ron and Peggy
Miller covers the numerous mining districts run- MINES OF THE SAN BERNARDINOS by Jtfhn
one interested in the Golden State. 101 excellent W. Robinson. The largest gold rush in the south-
maps present information on the major faults, ning across the upper Mojave Desert from Tropi-
co, west of the town of Mojave, to Mountain ern regions of the Golden State took place in the
early Spanish explorations, Mexican land San Bernardino mountains. John tells of this and
grants, routes to gold fields, the Butterfield and Pass, a little west of the Nevada border. Paper-
back, 67 pages, $2.50. many other strikes that led to the opening of this
Pony Express routes, CCC camps, World War II high wooded area. Paperback, illustrated, 72
Installations, etc. Hardcover, large format, ex- pages, $2.50.
tensive index, $12.50.
DESERT GEM TRAILS by Mary Frances Strong
HISTORICAL ATLAS OF NEW MEXICO by DESERT Magazine's Field Trip Editor's popular
Warren A. Beck and Ynez D. Hasse. Geographi- field guide for rockhounds. The "bible" for both
cal data, sites of prehistoric civilizations, events amateur and veteran rockhounds and back
of history, first towns, stagecoach lines, historic country explorers, and covers the gems and min-
trails, etc., are included in this comprehensive" erals of the Mojave and Colorado Deserts.
atlas. Excellent maps, index. Hardcover, large Heavy paperback, 80 pages, $2.50.
format, highly recommended, $9.95.
SOVEREIGNS OF THE SAGE by Nell Murbar-
HOPI KACHINA DOLLS [With a Key to Their ger. A collection of previously tokJ tales about
Identification], by Harold S. Colton. Kachina the people and the places of the great American
dolls are neither toys nor idols, but aids to teach- Southwest by the original author, a longtime re-
ing religion and tradition. This is a definitive porter of the desert. Many photographs, some of
work on the subject, describing the meaning, the them now lost, several excellent Norton Allen
making and the principal features of 266 vari- Maps. Paperback, $7.95.
LOST MINES AND BURIED TREASURES OF
eties of Kachina dolls. Line drawings of each va- THE WEST, Bibliography and Place Names
riety, plus color and b/w photos make it a com- from Kansas West to California, Oregon, Wash- BAJA CALIFORNIA GUIDEBOOK by Walt
plete guide to learn more of the richness of ington and Mexico. This large, easy-to-use vol- Wheelock and Howard E. Giulick, formerly Ger-
American Indian culture. Paperback, 150 pages, ume lists the works of more than 1100 different hard and Gutick's Lower California Guidebook.
$4.50. authors, covering thousands of stories of lost This totally revised fifth edition is up-to-the-min-
mines and buried treasures supposedly located ute for the Transpeninsular paved highway, with
ALIVE IN THE DESERT, The complete guide new detailed mileages and descriptive text. Cor-
for desert recreation and survival, by Joe Kraus. in 15 Western and Southwestern states and in
Mexico. An important basic research tool for rections and additions are shown for the many
A handy volume that is worth its weight in your side roads, ORV routes, trails and little-known
backpack or daypack on all your desert travels, historians, geologists, geographers, anthropolo-
gists, archaeologists and folklorists. Hardcover, byways to desert, mountain, beach and bay re-
by car or on foot. The author is a longtime desert cesses. Folding route maps are in color and new-
writer who has been there himself. Paperback, 593 pages, $27.50.
ly revised for current accuracy. Indispensable
113 pages, $5.95. reference guide, hardcover, $10.50.
WILLIE BOY, by Harry Lawton. The story of an
DEATH VALLEY: Geology, Ecology, Archaeol- incomparable Indian chase, its unexpected con- A FIELD GUIDE TO THE COMMON AND IN-
ogy, by Charles B. Hunt. Death Valley has long clusion, woven into an authentic turn-of-the- TERESTING PLANTS OF BAJA CALIFORNIA
been a place of fascination for people the world century history of California's Twentynine by Jeanette Coyle and Norman Roberts. Over
over, and much has been written about it. Now, Palms country. This desert classis offers rare in- 250 plants are described with 189 color photos.
however, all aspects of this famous (or infamous) sights into Indian character and customs, as well Includes past and present uses of the plants by
desert have been brought together in this book. as a first-hand look at a colorful desert region as aborigines and people in Baja today. Scientific,
Lavishly illustrated with 163 photos and line it was nearly a century ago. Historic photo- .Spanish and common names are given. Excel-
drawings, 234 pages. Paperback, $6.95. graphs and colorful maps, paperback, $4.95. lent reference and highly recommended. 224
pages, paperback, $8.50.
HIGH MOUNTAINS & DEEP VALLEYS by Lew ANZA-BORREGO DESERT GUIDE BOOK,
and Ginny Clark, with photographs by Edwin C. Southern California's last frontier, by Horace BACK ROADS OF CALIFORNIA by Earl Thol-
Rockwell. A history and general guide book to Parker, revised by George and Jean Leetch. A lander and the Editors of Sunset Books. Early
the vast lands east of the High Sierra, south of classic reference to America's largest desert stagecoach routes, missions, remote canyons,
the Comstock Lode, north of the Mojave Desert park, originally published in 1957 and now up- old prospector cabins, mines, cemeteries, etc.,
and west of Death Valley, by oldtimers who dated, enlarged and improved by the. "dean of are visited as the author travels and sketches the
know the area and have since birth. Paperback, desert rangers" and his wife. With excellent California Backroads. Through maps and notes,
192 pages, 250 photographs and many maps. logs, maps and photographs brought up to 1979 the traveler is invited to get off the freeways and
$6.95. standards. Paperback, 154 pages, two maps, see the rural and country lanes throughout the
SHADY LADIES OF THE WEST by Ronald many photos, $6.95. state. Paperback, large format, unusually beau-
Dean Miller. Everyone knows that the harlot was tiful illustrations, 207 pages, $6.95.
the vanguard of every move westward, and that A SOUTHERN CALIFORNIAN'S GUIDE TO
she was as much of a part of the western scene WILD FOOD by Christopher Nyerges. This TEMALPAKH by Lowell John Bean and Kath-
as the marshal, the badman, the trail-hand or newly published manual describes the most erine Siva Saubel. Temalpakh means "from the
the rancher. Many are the reasons she has been common plants of So. California in detail and earth," in Cahuilla, and covers the many uses of
neglected by the historian—none of them valid. tells how to include them into your diet. Beat the plants used for food, medicine, rituals and those
Author Miller, in this enlightening book, seeks high cost of food by utilizing free wild food in used in the manufacturing of baskets, sandals,
to remedy some of the paucity of information on backyards, vacant lots and wilderness areas. hunting tools; and plants used for dwellings.
the American pioneers of this ancient profes- Many recipes included. Paperback, $4.95. Makes for a better understanding of environ-
sion. Hardcover, comprehensive bibliography, mental and cultural relationships. Well illustrat-
224 pages, $7.95. ARIZONA TREASURE HUNTERS GHOST ed, 225 pages, hardcover, $10; paperback, $6.50
TOWN GUIDE by Theron Fox. Early maps of
FIELD GUIDE TO WESTERN BIRDS by Roger 1868 and 1881 show 1,200 place names, roads, FIELD GUIDE TO ROCKS AND MINERALS by
Tory Peterson. The standard book for field iden- forts, early county arrangements, mining dis- Frederick H. Pough. Authoritative guide to iden-
tification sponsored by the National Audubon tricts, ghost towns, steamboat landing, moun- tification of rocks and minerals. Experts recom-
Society. Second Edition, enlarged, 658 photos in tain ranges, lakes, etc. A handy reference. Pa- mend this for all amateurs as one of the best.
full color. Strong, durable paperback, $6.95. perback, $1.95. Many color illustrations. Paperback, $5.95.
44 Desert/SeDtember 1979
Please add 50c per total order
for Handling/Postage
Calif, add 6% state sales tax

GHOST TOWNS OF ARIZONA by James and CALIFORNIA-NEVADA GHOST TOWN ATLAS STEAMBOATS ON THE COLORADO RIVER,
Barbara Sherman. If you are looking for a ghost and SOUTHWESTERN GHOST TOWN ATLAS 1852-1916, by Richard E. Lingenfelter. The first
town in Arizona this is your waybill. Illustrated, by Robert Neil Johnson. These atlases are excel- comprehensive, illustrated history of steamboat-
maps, townships, range, co-ordinates, history, lent do-it-yourself guides to lead you back to ing on the entire length of the Colorado River
and other details make this one of the best ghost scenes and places of the early West. Some pho- and its principal tributaries. Covering nearly a
town books ever published. Large 9x11 format, tos and many detailed maps with legends and century of western history, this book fills a real
heavy paperback, 208 pages, $5.95. bright, detailed descriptions of what you will need and joins the gaps in the saga of marine na-
see; also mileage and highway designations. vigation in the arid desert. Many maps, illustra-
TRACKING DOWN OREGON, by Ralph Fried- Heavy paperback, each contains 48 pages, each tions and a list of all the river steamers. Paper-
man. An excellent general history of California's $2.00. back, 195 pages, $9.50.
northern neighbor, which has as much desert of
a different description plus a lot of sea coast and JEEP TRAILS TO COLORADO GHOST TOWNS BURIED TREASURE & LOST MINES by Frank
exciting history. Many photographs of famous y Robert L. Brown. An illustrated, detailed, in- Fish. One of the original treasure hunters pro-
people and places and good directions how to get formal history of life in the mining camps deep vides data on 93 lost bonanzas, many of which he
there. Paperback, 307 pages, more than 100 in the almost inaccessible mountain fastness of personally searched for. He died under myster-
photographs, $5.95. the Colorado Rockies. 58 towns are included as ious circumstances in 1968 after leading an ad-
examples of the vigorous struggle for existence venturous life. Illustrated with photos and maps.
BACKPACKING GUIDE TO SAN DIEGO in the mining camps of the West. Illustrated, 239 Paperback, 68 pages, $2.00.
COUNTY, by Skip Ruland. An informative, no- pages, end sheet map, paperback, $6.95.
nonsense primer to day hiking and extended NEVADA PLACE NAMES by Helen S. Carlson.
several-day trips into the Southern California The sources of names can be amusing or tragic,
mountain and desert back country, covering whimsical or practical. In any case, the reader
more territory than the title suggests. Also this will find this book good reading as well as an in-
little book contains emergency information use- valuable reference tool. Hardcover, 282 pages,
ful wherever you hike or travel in the back coun- $15.00.
try. Paperback, 80 pages, several maps and
sketches, $2.95. ARIZONA PLACE NAMES by Will C. Barnes,
Revised and enlarged by Byrd H. Granger. Ex-
THE KING'S HIGHWAY IN BAJA CALIFOR- cellent reference book with maps, Biographical
NIA by Harry Crosby. A fascinating recounting Information and Index. Large format, hardcover,
of a trip by muleback over the rugged spine of 519 pages, $11.50.
the Baja California peninsula, along an historic
path created by the first Spanish padres. It tells CALIFORNIA PLACE NAMES by Erwin G.
of the life and death of the old Jesuit missions, it Gudde. This book presents the story of thous-
describes how the first European settlers were ands of geographical names of California, giving
lured into the mountains along the same road. THE BAJA FEELING, by Ben Hunter. Not just their dates, circumstances of naming, their ori-
Magnificent photographs, many in color, high- another turista invasion book about Baja, but an gin and evolution, their connection with our na-
light the book. Hardcover, 182 pages, large for- entertaining and informative report on the trials tional history and their relation to the California
mat, $14.50. and tribulations of weekending and finally, landscape. This third edition incorporates many
homebuilding in Baja California, by a charming new entries and extensive revisions to older en-
LIMBO by Carobeth Laird. A chilling but fascin- writer who admits he doesn't know everything. tries. An important addition is the reference list
ating personal memoir of life in a nursing home A refreshing change! Hardcover, 334 pages, of obsolete and variant names. Hardcover, 416
by a survivor, who was also the author of En- photographs and drawings, $8.95. pages, $18.50.
counter with an Angry God and The Chemehue- BALLARAT, Compiled by Paul Hubbard, Doris
vis. Mrs. Laird was 79 during the experiences Bray and George Pipkin. Ballarat, now a ghost CALIFORNIA II - Photography by David
she describes, and 81 when she completed this town in the Panamint Valley, was once a flour- Muench, Text by Don Pike. Travel from
book, already being hailed a a landmark work for ishing headquarters during the late 1880s and mountain to seacoast to fertile farmlands explor-
potential change in the nursing home scene. 1900s for the prospectors who searched for silver ing remote and hidden valleys, populous cities
Paperback, 178 pages, $5.95. and gold in that desolate area of California. The and isolated ghost towns, discovering the beau-
authors tell of the lives and relate anecdotes of ties and variety of this Golden State. 165 beauti-
ELECTRONIC PROSPECTING with the VLF/TR the famous old-timers. First published in 1965, ful 4-color photographs, large format, $29.50.
Metal/Mineral Detector, by Charles Garrett, this reprinted edition is an asset to any library.
Bob Grant and Roy Lagal. A handy reference for Paperback, illustrated, 98 pages, $3.00. FIELD GUIDE TO ANIMAL TRACKS by Olaus
anyone using late-model metal detectors, J. Murie [Peterson Field Guide Series]. This
written by experts in this expanding field. Con- THE BLACK ROCK DESERT, by Sessions S. comprehensive book helps you recognize and
tains many hints on how to find gold and other Wheeler. One of Nevada's least-known and most understand the signs of all mammals—wild and
treasure ores and artifacts with a good biblio- scenic historical desert areas is described by the domestic—on this continent, as well as those of
graphy and appendix. Paperback, 86 pages, state's leading professional historian and many birds, reptiles and insects. More than 1000
numerous illustrations, $3.95. author. Black Rock is part of the huge Great drawings; individual tracks, different track pat-
Desert Basin and was the setting for Indian bat- terns, animals in their habitats, droppings,
tles and several tragic incidents during the 1849 gnawed trees—all the types of clues the tracker
OWYHEE TRAILS by Mike Hanley and Ellis California Gold Rush. Paperback, 186 pages,
Lucia. The authors have teamed to present'the needs. Strong, durable paperback, $5.95.
many black and white photographs, sketches
boisterous past and intriguing present of this and maps, $4.95.
still wild corner of the West sometimes called THE CREATIVE OJO BOOK by Diane Thomas.
the I-O-N, where Idaho, Oregon and Nevada Instructions for making the colorful yarn talis-
come together. Hardcover, 225 pages, $9.95. A FIELD GUIDE TO MAMMALS by William H. mans originally made by Pueblo and Mexican
Burt and Richard P. Grossenheider. Identifies Indians. Included are directions for wall-hung
CALIFORNIA GHOST TOWN TRAILS by Mick- 380 species of wild mammals of North America ojos, necklaces, mobiles and gift-wraft tie-ons.
ey Broman. Thirty-six photographs showing north of Mexico, with all necessary recognition Well illustrated with 4-color photographs, 52
some of the old towns as they appear today, not information. Contains 200 animals shown on pages, paperback, $2.95.
as they did 50 or 100 years ago. Thirty-six maps superb color plates. Range maps show at a
glance the area where each species occurs. DESERT EDITOR by J. Wilson McKenney. This
with detail mileage to the ghost towns, shown to is the story of Randall Henderson, founder of
the tenth of a mile. Interesting and historical Heavy durable paperback, $5.95.
DESERT Magazine, who fulfilled a dream and
data for treasure hunters, rockhounds, bottle who greatly enriched the lives of the people who
collectors and western-lore enthusiasts. Paper- THE SEA OF CORTEZ, The Gulf of California, love the West. Hardcover, illustrated with 188
back, $2.95. Baja, and Mexico's Mainland Coast by Ray pages, $7.95.
Cannon and the Sunset Editors. A rich and color-
JVILDLIFE OF THE SOUTHWEST DESERTS by ful text acquaints the traveler and outdoorsman RAILROADS OF ARIZONA VOL. I by David F.
Jim Cornett. Written for the layman and serious with the history, people, climate and travel op- Myrick. More than 30 railroads of Southern Ari-
students alike, this excellent book on all the portunities of this exciting wonderland. Each of zona are presented, together with 542 nostalgic
common animals of the Southwest deserts. A the 12 regions that make up the Gulf of illustrations, 55 special maps and an Index. A
must for desert explorers, it presents a brief life California is covered in a separate chapter with a valuable travel guide and a reliable historical
history of everything from ants to burros. Paper- special section on how to catch "Cortez fishes." reference. Large format, hardcover, 477 pages,
back, 80 pages, illustrated, $3.95. Large format, hardcover, 272 pages, $14.95. $19.50.
Desert/September 1979 45
the materials. He believes it will be three
years before he has the answer.
Discoveries in the area so far include
two "snake" intaglios (rock alignments).
One is 520 feet long, the other 900 feet
long. Von Werlhof said both are very
similar to the intaglio styles found else-
where in Imperial County.
The thousands of artifacts removed
from the site will be taken to laboratories
at the college where they will be washed,
measured, weighed, typed, tested,
cataloged, sketched, written up and
photographed.
" B L M is getting a $25,000 job for
$5,000," Von Werlhof said.
McCain Study
Three teams of archeologists, each
with four members, closely examined a
Very old artifacts being found at this Yuha Desert site may be more than 10,000 7,000-acre sample of the 98,000-acres to
years old. Here a team from Imperial Valley College, El Centro, excavate a habitation obtain information for the McCain Valley
site. BLM's Yuha Visitor Center will be constructed nearby. Environmental Statement. The area
boundaries coincide with those of BLM's
Archeological Studies lived at the site at least 10,000 years Eastern San Diego County Planning
Continued from Page 23 ago, but he believes it is too early to esti- Unit.
mate the age of the artifacts. The area is rich in cultural resources.
Yuha Visitor Center: Site of Early Man ? "There are a lot of opinions," he said, In many places it had abundant food and
Members of the staff at Imperial Val- "but I'm not ready to make an estimate. water for the Northern and Southern
ley College Museum, El Centro, and a We have enough information to recon- Diegueno Indian peoples. It is believed
class taught by Von Werlhof excavated struct lifestyle and technologies, but we that the Cahuilla and Kamia peoples also
house sites at the Yuha location. At one need carbon dating to obtain a reliable lived in some of the numerous mountain
site they found about 1,500 items asso- age." ranges of the study area. These ranges
ciated with a past culture. He said emphasis will be changed next include the inkopah, Jacumba, Tierra
The artifacts include very old crude year from surveying to excavation. The Blanca and Cayote.
tools used for chopping and battering. purpose of the new program will be to Kaldenberg said it is believed that
Von Werlhof is convinced that people determine and cross-check the age of people lived in the area at least 6,000 to
7,000 years ago. Oak and pinion trees,
A team of archeologists is given a preview of the McCain Valley area where they key food sources, are plentiful. There is
later would comb 7,000 acres for evidence of prehistoric habitation. good habitat for deer and other wild-
life. One of the most important food re-
sources was the agave, similar to the
century plant.
. . . • . . ••:•_,, . • • ; • £ • • • • , ,
Indians roasted the center part of the
stock from young agave plants. Its taste
and consistency are described as being
similar to the yam but more fibrous.
Leaves of the agave were pounded and
•.. .. ' •••: : ., the fibres taken for making nets and
baskets.
The contractor for the McCain archeo-
logical sampling also will prepare a re-
search design for follow-up studies.
The combined inventories underway
during the summer are laying the
groundwork for more intensive research
in an area of fabulous archeological
value. Every artifact found and under-
stood will shed light, a little at a time, on
Native Americans who lifeways now
are veiled by the unknown. •
"Letters Calendar of "Events
to the This column is a public service and there is no OCTOBER 13 & 14, 4th Gem & Mineral Show

"Editor
charge for listing your event or meeting—so take sponsored by the Sierra Pelona Rock Club,
advantage of the space by sending in your an- William S. Hart High School Cafeteria, 24825
nouncement. We must receive the information
at least three months prior to the event. N. Newhall Ave., Newhall, Calif. Admission
50 cents adults, children under 16 free.
Letters requesting answers must
SEPTEMBER 14-16, The Wasatch Gem Dealers, Working demonstrations.
include stamped self-addressed envelope
Society will host the Utah Federation of Gem
and Mineralogical Societies' annual conven- OCTOBER 13-14, a weekend of fun sponsored
tion, National Guard Armory, 5189 S. State, by the World-of-Rockhounds Association,
Gasoline Hotline . . . Murray, Utah. Free admission. This show Inc. The campsite is the American Progress
was previously scheduled for September 7 Mining Claim. Take the Fort Irwin road out of
With the current concern on the gasoline through 9. Dealers, Demonstrations, Swap Barstow, California for approximately 16.7
situation, perhaps your readers might like to Tables, Competitive Exhibits, Special Dis- miles. There will be WRA signs marking the
know that travelers, through or in New plays. turn off—follow them to the campsite. Dis-
Mexico, may find out the availabilty of plays, field trips, auction, campfire activities.
gasoline any place in the state by calling a toll SEPTEMBER 22 & 23, Harvest of Gems and
free number, 1-800-432-6782. Names of spe- Minerals, sponsored by the Sequoia Gem and OCTOBER 13 & 14, Gem and Mineral Show,
cific stations are not given, but whether sta- Mineral Society, 1120 Roosevelt Ave., Red- San Jose "Rock Trails West," annual show of
tions are open at night or on weekends. So far wood City, California. Demonstrations, dis- the Campbell Gem and Mineral Guild, Gate-
there has been no shortage in New Mexico, plays, dealers. way Hall, Santa Clara, Fairgrounds on Tully
and no critical shortages are expected. The Rd., Campbell, California.
hot line is open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., Mon-
SEPTEMBER 22 & 23, Mother Lode Mineral-
day through Friday. OCTOBER 13-21, Fourth Annual Gem and
ites' 16th Annual Show, "The Show That
RUTH ARMSTRONG, Shows How," Gold Country Fairgrounds, Mineral & Handmade Hobby Jamboree,
Corrales, New Mexico. Auburn, California. Exhibits, demonstra- Sportsman's Club, 6225 Sunburst, Joshua
tions, slide shows, dealers, field trips. Free Tree, California. Dealers, free admission and
admission, parking and camping. parking.
Enjoying "Way Back" Issues . . .
SEPTEMBER 22 & 23, 13th Annual "Magic OCTOBER 20 & 21, Gem and Mineral Society
Just wanted to let you know how much we
in Rocks" show, sponsored by the El Monte of Whittier, California will hold their Annual
are enjoying reading the "way back" issues
Gem and Mineral Club, Inc., Masonic Tem- Show, Palm Park Recreation Center, 5703
of Desert that arrived a short time ago. Every
ple, 4017 N. Tyler Ave., El Monte, Calif. South Palm Avenue, Whittier, Calif. Free ad-
issue is filled with wonderful articles and
Admission and parking free. mission and parking. Outstanding displays.
"Tons" of information.
We look forward each month to receiving OCTOBER 2-14, Annual Show of the Fresno
your excellent magazine and now these back Gem and Mineral Society, Fresno Dist. Fair, OCTOBER 20 & 21, "Jasper Days '70" spon-
issues are a special "treat"—what a combin- East Kings Canyon Rd., and Chance Ave., sored by the Coalinga Rockhound's Society,
ation! Fresno, Calif. Admission to fair covers admis- Inc., Sunset School Cafeteria, 1104 California
Even though many of our trips are armchair sion to show. St., Coalinga, Calif. Dealers, exhibits, camp-
ones (lately), we truly feel we've been to the ing available, admission free.
various places that have been so well written OCTOBER 6 & 7, The East Bay Mineral Soci-
about. ety will present their annual Festival of Gems OCTOBER 26-28, Old Pueblo Lapidary &
PHYLLIS R. LANE, and Minerals, Scottish Rite Temple, 1547 Gem Show, Community Center Exhibition
Magalia, California. Lakeside Dr., Oakland, Calif. Dealer space Hall, 350 S. Church St., Tucson, Arizona.
filled. Admission is charged.
NOVEMBER 3 & 4, Bear Gulch Rock Club
Missed the Train . . . OCTOBER 6 & 7, National Prospectors & 17th Annual Gem and Mineral Show,
Treasure Hunters Convention, sponsored by Masonic Hall, 1025 N. Vine, Ontario, Calif.
I was particularly interested in C. J. Burk- the Prospector's Club of Southern California, Exhibits, demonstrations, dealer space filled.
hart's article on Jerome in the July issue. Inc., Galileo Hill Park, California City, Calif. Free admission and parking.
That town always amazes me every time I Admission and parking free—everyone is in-
drive through it. vited to attend and participate. Noted guest NOVEMBER 10 & 11, The Yucca Valley Cem-
I did find an error in the article. On page speakers, latest equipment demonstrated by fest featuring "Desert Rocks & Gems," pre-
26, the author states that a narrow gauge line, top manufacturers, organized free activities sented by the Yucca Valley Gem & Mineral
United Verde & Pacific, was built from Pres- for children. Camping space available. A Society. The show will be held at the Com-
cott to Ash Fork to link up with the Santa Fe. great family event. For information write S. munity Center, 57098 29 Palms Highway,
The UV&P was a narrow gauge line from T. Conatser, PCSC Convention Chairman, Yucca Valley, Calif. Admission free. Camping
what is now Chino Valley, which is about 15 2590 Fallon Circle, Simi Valley, Calif. 93065. and good motels nearby.
miles north of here, to Jerome. The roadbed
is now a road, which I intend taking some OCTOBER 6 & 7, Harvest of Gems, sponsor- NOVEMBER 10 & 11, Oxnard Gem and
day. The line between Prescott and Ash Fork ed by the Centinela Valley Gem and Mineral Mineral Society 10th Annual "Galaxy of
has always been standard gauge. Pardon the Club, Hawthorne Memorial Center, El Se- Gems" Show, Oxnard Community Center,
nit-picking. gundo Blvd., and Prairie Ave., Hawthorne, 800 Hobson Way, Oxnard, Calif. Exhibits,
LUKE R.SINCLAIR, Calif. Dealers, displays, demonstrations, Dealers (spaces filled], Demonstrations. Free
Prescott, Arizona. ample free parking. admission and parking.

Desert/September 1979 47
FEATURING SELECTED WORKS (
OUTSTANDING ARTISTS INCLUDING:
CARLG. BRAY
ELBERTCHEYNO
KINGSLEY OSMUND HARRIS
KATHI HILTON
MARGARET HUNTER
WAYNE JUSTUS
CHARLES LaMONK
KENNETH MANSKER
NORBERTO REYES
PATRICIA SCARANO
DAVID VILLASENOR
JOEWAANO-GANO

DESERT MAGAZINE ART GALLERY


'Filling the Canteen" Oil, [24"x36"] Norberto Reyes, AICA
74-425 Highway 111
Palm Desert, California 92260

'Palms and Rocks" Oil, [127x16' Kingsley Osmund Harris "Palms and Sunshine" Oil, F16"x20' Kathi Hilton

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