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50
NEWMEXI
GHOST REAWA
I
w Clues
, MACACORI
^AfURE
lISSlONS OF CENTRAL 0 A ) A
is
This first Ruger Over and Under Shotgun is a perfect- Every feature of the new gun reflects traditional
ly balanced, plain grade gun of elegant simplicity. By Ruger attention to detail and the high quality which the
the Ruger definition, "plain grade" means precision American shooter has come to expect of all Ruger fire-
workmanship and superior finish, with geometrically arms. Initial production of the 20 gauge model will be
accurate curved shapes, plane surfaces which are finely
polished and mechanical joints that are fitted to mini-
mum hairline clearances.
CONTENTS
"Oh, for wings like a dove, to fly away and rest! I would fly to far off deserts and stay there."
— Psalms 55:6,7
Features
THE MISSIONS THE CACTUS CITY
OF CENTRAL
BAJA by Jane Eppinga
31 CLARION Mary E. Twyman, Ed.
The Nosiest Newspaper in the West
The Legacy of the Other Mexico
12 TREASURE
THE LOST 40 THE VERSATILE
ALOE by Marian Seddon
OF and Dorothy Parcel
TUMACACORI by Choral Pepper Rx in the Desert
New Twists to an Old Trail
42 THE FLIGHT OF
WILLIE BOY by T C. Weir
A Saga of Desert Survival
Cover
A touch of white on an old shack
COAL, COMO AND makes it a home once again.
CHRISTMAS by Dan B. McCarthy Photograph taken in Madrid, New
A Combo That May Revive Madrid, New Mexico Mexico by David Muench.
DESERT 3
Editor
Donald MacDonald
Art Director/Photo Editor
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PEGLEG SMITH'S NUGGETS I made a 16 mm sound film on the site Felipe. Why is it no one ever writes about
There are two intriguing hypotheses which I titled "Lost for a Hundred Years." the seamy side of vacation spots?
outlined in the lively exchange between In spite of pleas of former editors of Lillian Dudicz
Choral Pepper and Don MacDonald Desert I would not write an article about Hayward, Calif.
(Desert, June 1980) giving new points of the site since it has been my experience You just did.
view for someone interested in searching that once a place is known, vandals quickly
for the lost Pegleg nuggets. However, I destroy it.
must submit that both are highly However, since the site is now public LEST WE FORGET
improbable. information, I wish for the record to give Altho your June 1980 issue of Desert
"Desert varnish" is not formed by Lee Simmons, Curator of the Mono County boggled these weary old eyes with its
copper dioxide from the nuggets Museum in Bridgeport, Calif, credit for magnifisense, the hole thang went thunk
themselves. The precious metals in the "re-discovering" the town. It was he in July, when I coodn't low-cate the Bible
nuggets protect the copper in solid 1969 who led us up the steep and quotation. Tsk, Tsk, my dear Mr. Mac, we
solution so that it does not preferentially dangerous trail to Boulder Flat so we could mussn't fergit our 'umble beginnins and
come to the surface as oxide. Rather, the make our movie. If readers contact me, I from whence all good thangs cum.
varnish is manganese and iron oxides, plus may be willing to rent this one-of-a-kind Minnie Contretemps
small amounts of many trace elements. The film, which is in color, for showing to Truth & Consequences, N.M.
manganese compounds (and some iron) interested audiences. We ain't fergettin, Minnie. Them quotes
are brought to the surface by capillary Jay Clark jist got left out one month by an errant art
migration and/or migration through films Hartford, Calif. director.
of moisture on the pebbles during Those wishing to show this film may write
infrequent desert rains. Evaporation, Mr. Clark at 1000 E. Myrtle St. in Hanford.
oxidation and precipitation take place to RENO'S STILL BOOMING
create the varnish, and thus happens ALONG
dominantly on the exposed upper surfaces BAJA PRO AND CON There's a bit of misinformation in your
and sides of the pebbles. With rare I just finished your April 1980 issue with its June (1980) issue about casino closings in
exceptions this happens only where desert articles on Baja. About five years ago we Reno. Your first line is "The Money Tree
conditions are severe. It does not happen along with a group of friends from here has dried up ..." to which I'm sure Charley
in northern California and thus it is made the trek down through Calexico and Mapes would take issue. Only the newly
improbable that the Pegleg nuggets into Baja. We spent a number of days in San renovated portion on West 2nd at Sierra
originated there. Felipe and enjoyed it immensely. At that has closed. Secondly you state that "two
If the nuggets had been dropped from a time the Clam Man had a spot on the other downtown casinos have closed in
mule train in Arizona or Southern busiest corner in town; chanting "Don't recent weeks ..." and again you are a bit
California, there would not have been time forget the Clam Man," he was the center of off, to wit:
for them to become coated with desert attraction. Then we pushed further south All of our local closings happened last
varnish and so resemble other pebbles. to Puertocitos where we camped for about year, and there are only two downtown, the
C. B. Hunt in 1971 established that desert a week and enjoyed the hot natural baths second being the Horseshoe almost
varnish in the western U.S. is more than and the cooking at Caeser's. The beauty of next-door to the Moneytree. Our other
2,000 years old. In fact, Eiiot Blackwelder Baja captivated us and since then, we have closing was a new kid up the block, name
cited good evidence in 1948 that dark gone back five times, always enjoying good of Claimstake, in Sparks which is several
varnish in the Egyptian desert is more than food and excellent hospitality. miles from downtown Reno. Believe me
5,000 years old. San Felipe has grown and changed so when I say that Sparksites do not consider
If they were picked up elsewhere in the much during this short period of time that themselves citizens of Reno. You now
southwest desert and dropped, it is difficult it is amazing. Even an airport! In a way it is stand corrected. If you should be in our
to imagines// of them fal ling with the sad. For those like us who have to travel so area, by all means stop by and say howdy,
heavy coating of desert varnish up. Since far, Baja is the last frontier. I hope you we'll be glad to show you some
all accounts seem to agre:e that the nuggets don't entice too many more tourists, for boom-town hospitality.
can be distinguished from the surrounding Baja is beautiful the way it is. Kirt R. Harmon
pebbles only by the difference in weight, it R. B. Hayward Reno, Nev.
would seem clear that they have been in Provo, Utah.
their present position for 2,000 or more
years. In other words, they must be sought We traveled across Baja east from Ensenada APOLITICAL
by geologic rather than archeologic to San Felipe and saw nothing but dirt, Desert Magazine reflects a growing
criteria. rocks and in the middle of it all, the concern for ecological adventures and
Earl Ingerson poverty of Valle de Trinidad, an agricultural utilization of one's appreciation of our
Austin, Texas area which was the only beauty spot in 160 natural resources. Let us save "political
miles. views and quotable quotes" for gossip
We stayed in a trailer camp owned by the magazines and continue to present
OTHERS WERE THERE FIRST chief of police. It was 94 degrees in and out informative, historical insights to the silent
I see (Desert, May 19800 that the story of of the ocean and the humidity was majority of Desert adventurers. Your
Boulder Flats has at last been told, and I unbearable. Whenever we used the magazine has long been a standard
must say that the article a.nd pictures were bathroom or shower, one of us had to reference source for my students.
interesting and well done. stand guard or someone (native) would Dr. Guy D. Mazza
Back in 19691 explored Boulder Flat and peek in. We saw nothing beautiful in San Stanford, Calif.
LIME PDU1ELL
DFF-SEHSDn IS JUST HS
BEHUTIFUl BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE
It's the greatest for summer family fun.
OF THE BEHOLDER
Wahweap, Bullfrog and Mite resorts/marinas The two thoughtful letters from readers cable. It never occurred to them that the
are open year around, but you really should Hayward and Dudicz you'll see on page 5 knife might seem ominous, to us. And
try us in the spring, fall and winter...
of this issue present diametrical reactions when offered payment for their trouble,
to a few days spent by each individual in they refused. When offered money with
San Felipe. Both impressions are equally which to buy some beer, they accepted.
Not only for moderate temperatures,/ better valid and both deserved their airing. Mexicans are not lazy. Those gleaming
fishing and less crowded conditions, but for However, Hayward and Dudicz judged all clothes on the children were whitened on
of Baja from visits to a single area. a washboard at home. The one-room
Savings to Baja in truth is a land of contrasts and
what seems seamy to one may be beautiful
to another. It is a land of infinite variety but
house was built by its owner. The fence of
dried ocotillo was gathered piece by piece
from miles away. Manana as is commonly
others see only sameness, a conflict typical supposed does not mean "tomorrow" to
among visitors to deserts everywhere. And them; it means "I will do it but not now."
what seemed to have been rude ogling I have a friend in San Felipe named
may derive from no more than the Freddy and he is troubled. He had spent a
curiosity of a child. few months at a college in California and
For the people of Baja, in their infinite then returned to his town. There he is the
variety, share in some childlike qualities. headwater and sometimes manager of a
Away from the few major cities, there is no restaurant where the tourists eat and he
television and few telephones. What may married and has three children.
seem to a visitor to be abject poverty and His exposure to our way of life made
therefore, unhappiness, often obscures a him aware of poverty even though he is far
wholesomeness unknown to North from poor by San Felipe standards. It has
Americans. A dirt floor is dirty to us; to a made him ambitious and discontented and
Mexican, it is clean when it is swept as it I am sure that someday he will "succeed,"
constantly is. whether it be in San Felipe or, perhaps, up
Look at the children on the way to here. But he is unhappy because he has
school, squeak)' clean in body and clothes. seen and compared. And the more he
And also in soul as are, for the most part, serves the tourists, the further away seem
their mothers and fathers. Drop something his dreams. Envy has entered his
of value from your car as you pass. Try this. relationships with visitors. It is ironic, for I
Some child will run after you for a mile so envy him the chance to live in San Felipe.
as to return it. As will their parents. So when you go there or anywhere else
Meet a "poor" Mexican famiy and accept in the "other Mexico," pity the Freddies
the invitation to visit their home. Realize a who have been contaminated with our way
jar of Nescafe has cost more than a day's and envy the vast majority who haven't.
wages but you will be offered coffee, and They are truly happy and it is contagious!
good conversation about simple things
such as the quality of the fish in yesterday's
catch or the health of a baby new to a
neighbor.
The man may look at your car and ask
you with directness how much it cost. Do NOTICE: Most of our subscribers
not be offended; he simply is curious to recently received a letter from us
know, and it is a curiosity without envy for suggesting they renew at a special $9.00
he has little use for such a car. He has ($17.00 for two years) rate. A heart-
accepted where he is in life. Have you? warming number took advantage of this
Mexicans are proud, whatever their offer, and for that we thank you, but
Send color and rale brochures on
station. And they are sensitive. This is not a there was some question about the
Wahweap, Bullfrog and Hite resorts/marina; defensive sensitivity. They accept you. They Goleta, Calif., return address on the
Name
wonder if you will accept them and should envelope. You'll see that sometimes and
you not, they have no wish to be bruised. also, P.O. Box 28816 in San Diego 92128.
Address.
Recently one of the vehicles in our party It's because we've moved our
City _ State _ entered some road construction with too subscription service to those locations
much speed and the jouncing knocked the where there are computers which can
Mail to:
battery from its mount. The battery while handle the ever-growing volume. But
Lake Powell Resorts B marines DM falling severed its ground cable and the there are also people, as before, and
Box 2904D, Phoenix, AZ 85038 car died. they're ready to help you with any
New central reservations system: Before the others ahead could return to subscription problem. Just write to
West of Mississippi call toll-free 1-800-528-6154. the scene, some Mexican teenagers had Desert at the San Diego address. You'll
In Arizona, call (602) 264-8466. stopped, diagnosed the problem, and with get a prompt, personal reply.
switchblade in hand, were regrounding the
6 AUGUST, 1980
The MISSIONS of
CENTRAL BAJA
by Jane Eppinga The mission
As the Diaz Ordaz ferryboat inched its
way into Santa Rosalia's harbor, we entered
complex at
El Otro Mexico. Even natives call Baja Mulege sits
California the other Mexico. This harsh,
beautiful country is little changed since the
within sight of
Spanish padres founded their missions the better
here over 300 years ago. The priests settled
where Indians had congregated along the
known men's
rivers near arable land. Now Father prison in the
Charlies Polzer was taking a study group
into Baja, and those who weren't seasoned
same town.
Baja types before the trip were certainly so
afterwards.
After disembarking, we drove to Mulege
and registered at the Hotel Presidente.
Some years ago with the opening of the
Transpeninsular Highway, the Mexican
government figured that Baja's tourist
business would boom so they built the
string of El Presidentes. But business did
not meet their expectations so as a result,
some of these hotels have fallen into
disrepair. Still, they are relatively
inexpensive and comfortable. Jorge Yee, a
camp cook for Erie Stanley Gardner when
he travelled in Baja served us a delicious
seafood platter. The next morning our
journey to the missions of Central
Baja began.
The CHURCH of
SANTA ROSALIA de
MULEGE
In August of 1704, Padres Francisco
Piccolo and Manuel Basauldna, with the
guidance of some friendly Indians, entered
Mulege estuary and founded a mission
approximately where the present church
stands. They employed Christian Cochimis
to further the faith. A blind man Andres
Sestiaga took charge of the mission and
Bernardo Adaba was named governor.
The present church was completed
around 1766 by Padre Escalante. Some
restorations are obvious but it is still a
lovely church. The stonework character
preserves the feeling of originality.
NUESTRO VIRGEN
de LORETO
Fathers Salvatierra and Piccolo built a
small provisional chapel at Loreto in 1697.
Then they carried the image of Nuestra
Virgen de Loreto from the ships and placed San Javier, one of the
it before the mission door. The soldiers
took possession of the land in the name of most active of the
the King of Spain. After a few hostilities, the missions under Padre
Jesuits gained the Indians' trust and built
more permanent structures from rocks Miguel del Barco, is still
quarried in the area. in use today.
The present mission, dating from 1699,
has been extensively restored through the
efforts of Padre Sanchez Mayon. Some
years ago he won a lottery premium and
was able to provide the church with a new
bell tower and make extensive repairs.
8 AUGUST, 1980
Inside there is a lovely gilded retablo, under Padre Miguel del Barco. It is to him
some original alabaster fonts and that we owe a debt for the extensive flora
interesting oil paintings. and fauna documentation. Ancient
aqueducts which even preceded the padres
SAN JUAN are still in use.
without historical significance. Padre delicious lunch, however, will revive spirits Duchess of Gandia, who had bequeathed a
Piccolo selected this spot for a mission and and help you find the energy and large sum of money to found three
called it La Purisima Concepcion de Maria enthusiasm to attend Father Charlie's Mass missions on the Baja peninsula. The figs,
Cadgomo after a nearby ranch. Local at one of Baja's most beautiful missions, olives, grapes, and dates of today were
Indians begged him to stay and he San Ignacio de Kaadekamen. originally introduced by Padre Linck.
requested a missionary for this area. But it The Oasis of San Ignacio is situated near After the Jesuit expulsion, Fray Fermin
would be 1717 before one would arrive. In the arroyo Carrizal in the Sierra de San Francisco Lasuen took over this wealth)'
the meantime the Indians had to content Vicente. Padre Juan Loyando founded the mission. On June 12,1773 it was conveyed
themselves with Piccolo's frequent visits. mission in 1728 and the present church to the Dominicans, Padres Manuel Garcia
In March of 1717 young Padre Nicolas was built later by Padre Consag. It is and Jose Aibar. Today five families live in
Tamaral arrived in Loreto with a letter remarkably well-preserved and the interior the immediate mission area and their
requesting Salvatierra's presence in possesses three gilded retablos names date back to the Spanish conquest
Mexico City. The journey proved too from Spain. of Baja.
strenuous for the old priest and he died In the early 1700's Padre Piccolo The exterior of the church is in good
when he reached Guadalajara. But Father received petitions from the Indians of condition but some of the rooms have
Tamaral did not sit idle. He opened trails Kadda-Kaamen for a missionary. He sent been burned out from campfires, and
from Comandu and Mulege to Purisima. In Padre Loyando and by 1728, Easter services cattle are herded through the church yard.
Purisima he planted grain and citrus and were celebrated in the new church. Crops Mass is said from time to time in the chapel
began building a church. At one point his were planted and sheep and cattle were by priests passing through the area.
congregation numbered over 2,000. All introduced. But four hard years of labor
that remains is a profusion of palm trees, broke Loyando's health and he was forced A FINAL STOP
some adobe walls, an above ground to retire. Padres Sestiaga, Taravel and The churches of Rosario Arriba and
sarcophagi and a despondent village. Consag. Rosario Abajo were founded in 1774 by the
Dominicans. All that remains is an adobe
SAN IGNACIO The MISSION of arch and a corner niche. The original bells,
dated 1738 and 1706, have been transferred
de KAADEKAMEN SANBORJA " to the new chapel's bell tower.
Tired, dusty travellers may sometimes Twenty-two miles of tortuous dirt road Baja is a step back in time. Customs have
discover there is no water at the El will take you to San Francisco de Borja not changed. On still evenings you can
Presidente, but the management will Adac, through the Boojum tree forest. A hear the tinkle of goat bells in the
assure you that all will be wet as soon as distant relative of the ocotillo, also known mountains. Mules or burros still turn the
the pumps are running. Pretty soon there as cirio, this is the only place in the world wheel which grinds the juice from the
will be a trickle of cold water and the wiser to which this plant is native. sugar cane. The stars shine down on you
ones will grab a shower. You'll be told In 1759 an Austrian, Padre Wenceslao with the same intensity as they did upon
there will be hot water in a couple of hours Linck, founded the San Borja Mission. In the padres. Standing alone in the empty
but the pumps may burn out and once his time he converted over 1,500 Indians mission, you feel that 300 years have
again, there will be no water. and built a mission house and a hospital. accomplished little and that is good. It is El
A dip in the pool, margaritas, and a Linck named the church after Maria Borja, Otro Mexico. You go home refreshed.^]
THE LOST
TREASURE OF
TUMACACORI
by Choral Pepper
Ii
them to consume. It's the same process, in SOUTHWESTERN a\ ] \ victim should try to remain as calm as
fact, that keeps the giant pythons of Africa SNAKES W\% possible and not undertake any physical
from attempting to consume an elephant. exertion unless absolutely necessary. A
(RIGHT) IOTI tourniquet between the bite and the heart
RATTLESNAKE yXtifr
Frequently one BROAD HEAD,
NARROW NECK
| P I can be used but should not be so tight as to
cut off circulation to and from the arteries,
hears of "old-timers" who camp out in the and it should be loosened every few
desert and are not worried about very broad near the back of the jaws minutes. The victim should always be taken
rattlesnakes because they surround because the venom glands are located to a hospital as quickly as possible to
themselves with a horsehair lariat or even there. The broad head is attached directly receive proper medical treatment.
occasionally with some branches of cholla, to a very thin neck as is shown in the It is a good idea, if it can be done
believing themselves to be safe from the accompanying illustration. The heads of without unnecessary delay or risk, to kill
potential visits of the neighboring non-poisonous snakes in the southwest are the rattlesnake and bring it with the victim
rattlesnakes because the snakes would not about the same circumference as to the hospital so that proper identification
want to crawl over the rope or through the their necks. of type of snake and thus, type of treatment,
cholla. While the cholla may be a mild Differences noted so far between can be made. However, the venom of the
deterrent to a rattlesnake, the lariat would rattlesnakes and non-poisonous species various species of southwestern
be no deterrent at all since the heavy thick are only valid when comparing snakes rattlesnakes is somewhat similar and,
scales on all snakes' bodies are impervious native to the southwestern deserts of the therefore, so is the treatment. Be careful
to the rough prickly edges of the rope. United States. As one travels into Central when handling the recently dispatched
and South America and even Mexico, there snake as the venom is still toxic.
are many species of snakes with very There are many commercial snake-bite
Still another slender bodies and with shiny scales. kits available which have suction cups that
are supposed to help draw out the venom
fallacy often repeated about rattlesnakes is
and scalpels to make incisions above the
that there is one rattle on their tails for
each year of age. This is simply not a fact. A It is relatively wound to "drain" the venom out. My
rattlesnake acquires a new rattle every timeeasy for the hiker to avoid encounters with personal opinion which is backed by
he sheds his skin. A young, healthy and rattlesnakes. First of all, confine your physicians is that the use of these kits in the
growing snake may shed two or three walking to open areas where visibility is field can lead to more damage and trauma
times a year and thus acquires up to three good. The best defense against a snake is than their potential value. A rattlesnake bite
rattles within a year. At the same time, theseeing it before it senses you. Don't climb is very serious but unless the bitten
rattles are occasionally knocked or broken through rocks and boulders where you individual is a very small child or an
off as the snake crawls through rocks and cannot see where you will be putting your elderly person, there should be ample
bushes. There is no way to correllate the hands and feet, especially during the early time to go to proper medical facilities for
age of the snake with the number of rattles morning and late afternoon in the warm treatment. Administering anti-venene is
on the end of its tail. months of the year when snakes are more often dangerous in that the bitten person
active. Save your rock climbing for the may have an allergic reaction to the horse
winter months when all species of snakes serum which is the base of most
My purpose has and other reptiles are deep underground anti-venenes. Again I stress the use of the
been to quell or at least ease some of your in hibernation. Don't put your hands or light tourniquet and keeping the victim
fear of rattlesnakes. Still, they are fingers under rocks or boards to turn them calm as perhaps the best field treatment for
venomous, potentially dangerous animals over or pick them up, as snakes habitually snake bite.
and must be treated with respect. There seek this type of shelter.
are many species of non-poisonous native Use rakes and long-handled shovels to
snakes, however, which are highly clean up brush and again, don't pick up the The best defense
beneficial and should be allowed to coexist brush with your hands because it is usually of all against a rattlesnake bite, of course, is
peacefully around homes and gardens in such brush that snakes will retreat to being cautious when you are out hiking
since they eat and therefore control escape the heat of the summer day. If you and learning to identify the poisonous
rodents which can quickly become pests. do hear a rattlesnake, stand very still until from the non-poisonous snakes that you
But how can you identify the rattlesnake vou know the exact location of the snake. If might encounter. 0
DESERT 19
The Artistand the Man
WILLIAM HENRY
J ACKSON
by Marian Clover
The year was 1866 and all traffic moving west moved in covered
wagons and every ox was a bull.
"In all the language there is no word that so exactly expresses a
meaning," said William Henry Jackson, bullwhacker.
The job was sixteen hours, seven days, beginning with a predawn
holler when 330 ornery oxen were loosed inside the circle of wagons
and each bullwhacker hunted down his team of twelve. Jackson wrote
home:
"Some other steer, having a grudge against the one you are gently
urging up to the wagon wheel to fasten, gives him a punch in the ribs
with his horns and sends him kiting into the herd again. You hang on
manfully and are snaked around right smart, and you have to jump on
some of their backs to escape being squeezed to a jelly."
When they started, bullwhacker and bulls were equal. Jackson had
never held a wooden bow in his hands and his bulls had never been
yoked. It took the greenhorn eight hours to line up his team. After a few
weeks he had it down to 35 minutes.
His only ease was a few minutes sketching around the campfire at
night. He could never remember a time he didn't draw. Back in New
York he'd painted lush green landscapes with gentled hills. Here on the
trail he drew the wild-eyed bulls, wagons with their faded canvas, and the
flatland that stretched ahead interminably.
When the sand stuck in his teeth and the dust got thick enough to chew
he looked at the rusty wagon wheels and buffalo shoulder blades with
hasty scrawled epitaphs aside the trail. He reminded himself he was
lucky to be alive.
Though cholera didn't hit Jackson's wagon train, scurvy did. His gums
Photographs of Artwork Courtesy THE HAROLD WARP PIONEER VILLAGE ofMinden, Nebraska.
20 AUGUST, 1980
W. H.JACKSON AT SALT LAKE - 1866
DESERT'* 2 1
Jackson traveled with the Hayden Geological
Survey, each summer sketching and photographing
land north and south of the Overland Trail.
I
/y
I
'II
COAL, COMO
"""CHRISTMAS
A Combo that May
M
ost visitors who travel those 27 miles along
State Route 14, a little southwestish out of
Revive Madrid Santa Fe, or who drive north out of
Albuquerque, are likely to mention back
home their visit in quaint Madrid. And they pronounce
by Dan B. it MAH-dnd, just like references to Old World Spain's
McCarthy capitol in Ernest Hemingway's novels.
Some say the town bears the name of the Francisco
When Perry Como and his de Madrid family, which dates back in the southwest to
song and dance troupe were in de Varga's 1692 re-conquest. Others say, no, it's named
town last year filming a for Spain's largest city.
segment of his televised One early summer's morning B.C. (before Como), I
Christmas Special for 1979, sat alone in MAD-rid's baseball park which was not
Como came through famously collapsing then, but just deteriorating. Trees, trunks
with residents by calling their thicker than saplings, blocked the view from the
rustic, reawakening ghost town grandstand towards the diamond.
"MAD-rid." Emphasis on the Tethered in the outfield, a burro hee-hawed to greet
MAD... a new day or for whatever reason burros like to
That's as it should be in hee-haw. From across town somehwere a dog,
Madrid, New Mexico. sounding like a German shepherd, barked his
authoritative contribution to drown out delightful
(Left) The modest birdsong heard between the brays of the burro.
white-washed homes of The rest of Madrid seemed asleep.
Madrid were lived in by coal Alone with my thoughts I wondered what Madrid
mining families through the was like in its heyday when people bought tickets to sit
mid-1950s. in the grandstand. Later, when Madrid awakened, I
nosed around, asked questions, gathered a notebook
full of answers, and exposed a lot of film.
-
u
z
DESERT 25
T F
his former coal producing
patch of New Mexico caught eelings about mining are mixed,
on as a community in 1882
when the Atlantic and Pacific but most local residents do not
Railroad's gandy dancers
strung a five-mile spur line through the
Ortiz Mountains leading to Waldo, where
wish the quality of life in reborn
some fifty beehive-shaped coke ovens then
operated.
Madrid to decline as a result of mining
Prior to the railroad's arrival, pioneer
Madrid miners had been working the
traffic, blasting and such.
bituminous and anthracite coal fields on a
limited basis since 1869. Historians report Hillside dioramas featured the Nativity Rusting auto hulks, showing lines of
coal taken from the area as early as 1835. scene, Santa Claus and company, and also models current in the late 1930s, were
Madrid's major thrust on the national Mother Goose characters. From the early once parked along a weed-strewn lane
scene covered from 1920 to the late 1940s, 1920s until WWII's energy conservation near the heavy-timbered tipple but they
after a World War II production spurt ended period the exquisite nighttime panorama along with the tipple, as of Spring, 1980
when hostilities ceased overseas. annually focused national attention have disappeared from Madrid's past.
By 1954 Madrid was off the coal market on Madrid. Somebody had need for the lumber, and
and the whole town was on the real estate Fittingly, Walt Disney and several of his the autos were collectable.
market. For Sale! The whole thing! children drove the gravel roads during the "It is a shame," laments Paula Sherman,
A classified advertisement which 1937 Yule season to view the splendor. And "but it is too late for preservation. It is
appeared in the Wall Street Journal read: some 15,000 other carloads of people hoped, as Madrid grows and becomes
added to that year's visitor count. more organized that an effort can be made
ENTIRE TOWN Officials of Trans World Airlines to restore some of the historic buildings."
200 houses, grade and high permitted their pilots to change course Growth talk notwithstanding, Madrid,
school, power house, general slightly and fly over Madrid, allowing whose post office was opened in 1896 and
store, tavern, machine shop, min- passengers glimpses of the extravaganza. discontinued in 1966, has earned its niche
eral rights, 9,000 acres, excellent That was at Christmas! But when Fourth in ghost town books published by the
climate, fine industrial location. of July was nigh, or Easter, or the opening University- of Oklahoma (1974) and the
game of the town's baseball season, University of New Mexico (1967).
Alas for the Albuquerque and Cerrillos townsfolk gathered to festoon their These times, with national talk about a
Coal Company's owners, there were no community. coal industry resurgence to alleviate
takers for the $250,000 asked. energy problems, folks around Madrid
D
Today, says editor Paula Sherman of The uring several visits to Madrid discuss their vast untapped coal reserves.
Rustler, a bi-weekly published out of we preferred to park Overtures are being made by coal interests
nearby Gerrillos,"estimates place 150 to "downtown and just walk the to get the town back into the coal mining
300 persons living in Madrid." town, soaking in the past, business. That stirs controversy, making
One historian gave Madrid the nickname noting today's life, and trying some Madrid residents hot around their
of "Pittsburgh of the West" when 300 tons to imagine "houses aglow with lights." collars.
of coal rolled daily to market as America Here and there among the row houses "Feelings about mining are mixed," says
moved into the 20th Century. Then some on the hillside, reconstruction has made Editor Sherman. "But most local residents
350 families, numbering about 2,000 crumbling structures home again for do not wish the quality of life in reborn
persons, populated the Gaslight Era scene. occupants. But the many untouched homes Madrid to decline as a result of mining
And there were residents who complained show the hard knocks of time and bad traffic, blasting and such."
that their $3 coal bill each month was weather in a ghost town. Community togetherness has evolved
too high! The big, box)' former dance hall has a into a Madrid volunteer fire department, a
Madrid coal helped stoke stoves as far distinct structural sag, but still is standing. water cooperative, and a landowner's
away as Royal Canadian Royal Mounted There's a sign warning visitors to keep out.
Police posts. And, shipments were steady to Nearby, a former church, and then (Right) The plains below the
nearby Los Alamos during "Fat Albert" children's workshop classroom when
atom bomb production. people began wending their way back to Cerillos Hills near Madrid
From Madrid's unruffled, halcyon past, Madrid, is now a private residence, still come alive with summer
former residents and visitors remember charming. The present owner, says Editor bloom.
best, perhaps, the 40,000 Christmas lights Sherman, "prefers her privacy and does
that.showered national acclaim upon the not want people requesting entrance to the
communitv. former church."
26 Al GUST, 1980
!,:##v--
A classified advertisement which
appeared in the Wall Street Journal read:
ENTIRE TOWN
200 houses, grade and high
school, power house, general
store, tavern, machine shop, min-
eral rights, 9,000 acres, excellent
climate, fine industrial location.
* ^p
*
'':. $ p<
m:j -
•*• • - 1
28 AUGUST, 1980
DESERT 29
F
ormer residents and visitors
remember the 40,000 Christmas
lights that showered national
acclaim upon the community.
DAVID MUENCH
association. You can buy groceries, Last Christmas season for the first time in (Above) Madrid was a
gasoline and handcrafts at Tuffany's, the 38 years, a huge Christmas tree diorama on
former Pack Rat's Nest. Sam's Hideaway is a a hillside west of Madrid was lighted. "company town" which
leading town restaurant. And Sin Maybe, say residents with keen hopes for accounts for the sameness of
Nombre, Madrid House, and Madrid future Yultides aglow, some of the famous its architecture.
Earthenware Pottery are active businesses. lighting of the past, little by little, may
"The nature of Madrid is changing," the return to the Ortiz Mountains.
Cerrillos editor reports. "The population Amid such speculation, nobody has
mix is starting to become one of heard anyone rebut: "Bah! Humbug!" Who
responsible young families rather than would dare to provoke one of Charles
transient young people." Dickens' characters in a ghost town? K]
30 AUGUST, 1980
&THE NOSIEST NEWSPAPER IN THE WEST-fr
VOL. 1 NO. 6 MARY E. TWYMAN, EDITOR AUGUST 1980
Cactus Clarion 31
River (Cont. from page 31) gional Office in Boulder City, will be impounded for any come in and help themseiv&s
"Such parcels are owned by Vevada. That federal service damages to my private prop- to land owned by a little guy
people who are friendly with is, in fact, the Bureau of Rec- erty. Signed Dale E. Stout." and when the little guy wants
the big man," Stout said. lamation. Roy D. Gear, acting Stout did have a confronta- something in return, all he
Since those early days, and for Regional Director Eugene tion with Robert C. Brose, gets is a kick in the pants?"
with great malice against the Hinds, wrote on April 17: Chief, River Development S t o u t ' s actions have
actions of Oliver and the Bu- 'Dear Mr. Stout: On April 16, Branch for the BuRec. He caused unusual interest in
reau of Reclamation, Stout 1980, you were observed to said he told Brose the story of the Needles area because in-
always kept in mind that the have destroyed a portion of a how his property had been volvement by the Bureau dur-
government had acted in an federal levee about two miles taken without compensation ing the 1950s in questionable
illegal manner. This conclu- above Needles, California, on by the government and also land acquisitions still rankles
sion was predicated upon the the Arizona side of the Color- without any release to the a large number of people. The
following facts as described ado River. government allowing tres- government claims Stout has
by Stout: "Such action is in violation passing and damages that placed private land near his
1. The government did not of Section 1361 of the Crimi- ensued. acreage, and further down-
purchase the needed right- nal Code, 18 U.S.C., and "I don't understand this," river in Bermuda City, in
of-way for the levee across the section 14 of the River and Stout said. "They can pro- grave danger. The govern-
Stout property. Harbor Act of 1889, 33 U.S.C. duce no legal instrument re- ment already has indicated
2. The government at no par. 408. Copies of these garding taking of the land. river water releases will be
time ever offered to rectify statutes are enclosed for your Then they take the attitude record high during the com-
damages the Bureau caused ready reference." that I broke the law because ing months. The implica-
to private property owned by Gear's letter continued, now I have decided to im- tions made were the govern-
Stout. "Under the foregoing laws prove my land. They will have ment could release water
3. The Bureau did not ex- anyone convicted of such to show me how and where I which would overflow banks
plain its actions after Stout conduct is subject to fine or have broken the law by re- and creep up to retaining di-
found his property ruined for imprisonment. In addition, moving that eyesore off my kes. A comparable site is the
further development; in fact, he is liable to the United property so that I can start dike road along a nearby golf
Oliver refused to meet with States and other parties for improvements." course. If flooding does be-
Stout and when a meeting the damages r e s u l t i n g He apparently has his mind come fact, water would cover
was inevitable, was rude to therefrom. set on taking on the govern- the golf course area from the
the property owner. "This levee was con- ment. He said he has acted in present river bank to the
4. The government never structed by the United States a legal manner because the dike road.
had explained why it consid- in 1954 and has been in con- government had acted in an Stout says this isn't true
ered private property owned tinuous use since then to illegal manner in 1954, and because in his area the river
by Stout as public domain, protect the adjoining lands then completely disregarded tops off seven feet below the
and legal papers were not against flooding, which is an his pleas for justice. "They present bank. He also said he
served on the victim. imminent threat this sea- can take me off to jail," he wants to be taken to court
These points led Stout to son," Gear explained. said. "They can threaten me and have the opportunity of
believe he could do as he He continued, "You are all they want; but, where does defending himself and his
wished with the property therefore required, within a it say in the Constitution property. Lee Perry
anytime he decided to' start period of no more than 10 that the government can - Needles DESERT STAR
improvements. He re- days, to restore the levee in a
searched the records at manner satisfactory to us,
Mohave County courthouse. including the road thereon
Plat maps show no allowable which is depended upon to
easement given to the gov- maintain and protect the
ernment for a levee. He coulc levee. Failure to do so will
not find anything in writing leave us no alternative but to
which favored land grabs by initiate prosecution under
the federal government, anc the applicable statutes and to
his conclusion seems logical hold you responsible for such
The levee is on private prop- damages as may arise from
erty and so therefore, must the destruction of the levee
be owned by Stout. and the flooding of adjoining
So Stout decided to leve lands."
"his" dike and improve hi Stout noted that Gear sent
land prior to actual building a copy of the letter to Michael
development. He brought th D. Hawkins, United States
dike to grade. The land, he Attorney, Phoenix, Arizona.
said, is still seven feet higher Upon receipt of Gear's let-
than the top river crest. He ter, Stout sent a reply to the
sees no danger of flooding Bureau of Reclamation in
and feels the dike was con Boulder City which rea$ as
structed mainly as a conveni follows: "Dear Sir; This is
ence for the Bureau during concerning my property at
times when the levee worl Dike Road. You are not to
was being done during thi trespass men and equipment
early 1950's. on my property without my
Stout's action brough permission. To do so will be
immediate responses by th< trespassing my private prop-
Water and Power Resources erty and I will take action to Dale Stout, center, confronts a Bureau of
Service's Lower Colorado Re stop you, and any equipment Reclamation engineer.
CactusfllthtGU
nrrnvr
DESERT ROCKHOUND
by James R. Mitchell
Collecting Sites Update: malachite, chrysocolla and al, there is a chance it could S h o w s : The S o u t h e r n
For a fee of * 10.00 per person, azurite can still be obtained by get into your lungs and, due to California Federation of Min-
per day, you can dig precious searching through the dumps the microscopic size of the eralogical Societies will hold
opal at the famous Royal and excavated areas. This has diamond particles, actually Its 41st annual show, enti-
Peacock Mines near Denio, long been one of my favorite pass into the blood stream and tled "Days of Gems and
Nevada. Some of the finest fire spots to find quality speci- eventually lodge in body tissue. Roses," at the Pasadena Cen-
opal obtainable anywhere can mens of these minerals and I There is no evidence as to the ter in Pasadena, California. It
be found here, in addition to am very happy that rock- potential harm, if any, but he will take place August 1st
nice fluorescent and interest- hounds can once again col- advises users to be most care- through August 3rd and
ing dendrite material. The col- lect here. To get to this well ful when spraying, being sure should be an outstanding
ors range from black to green, known location, take 1-15, ap- to get it on the wheel and not event.
red, orange, yellow, violet and proximately 26 miles east from on yourself. The Reno Gem and Mineral
white, and it works up into Baker to the Cima turnoff. Helpful Hint: An article in the Society's a n n u a l show,
beautiful polished stones. If Head north, bearing to the Wickenburg Gem and Mineral "Jackpot of Gems," will be
you don't feel like digging, right, for about eight miles to Society Newsletter suggests held from August 23rd
specimens, either rough or Clark Mountain where you will using a permanent ink, felt tip through August 24th at the
polished, can be purchased at find the mine at the road's marker instead of the stand- C o n t e n n i a l Coliseum in
the adjacent rock shop. There end. ard aluminum pencil to make Reno, Nevada, and also prom-
is good camping either at the guide lines on stones for cut- ises to be an event worth
mine itself or at the nearby ting and grinding. It does not visiting.
government facility. For more disappear as the aluminum Court Decision: The Arizona
information, contact Joy L. often does, and is much easier Supreme Court has recently
Wilson, Denio, Nevada 89404. to see. I have tried this made a ruling that could have
One of the best places in the technique and will never go far reaching implications to
southwest to obtain top- back to using aluminum. I people with mining claims.
quality obsidian is only an employ a. fine tip marker and According to the Rand Dis-
hour's drive northeast of find it makes my grinding, trict News and Miner, the
Bishop, California. It is a hill cutting and shaping much court ruled that in order for a
literally covered with fine, more accurate. Beware that claimholder to have exclusive
gem-quality material. Excel- some water soluble coolants, rights to a claim, he must
lent mahogany, black, banded however, dissolve the marks, both occupy it and exhibit a
grey and black, and even some but for the majority of lapidary "diligent search for miner-
with a bluish iridescence can projects, using oil or water, it als." The case was initiated
be found, much being facet works very well. by the Lucky Me Uranium
quality. To get to this remark- Publications: The California Corporation when Geomet
able location, take US 6 from Division of Mines and Geol- Exploration Ltd. started
Bishop, through Benton, for ogy publishes an outstanding prospecting on their claims.
about 38 miles to the Museums: If in Tucson, monthly magazine called Geomet argued that Lucky
California-Nevada border. Arizona, I recommend taking a California Geology. Each Me simply drilled ten-foot
Continue another two and few hours to visit the out- month there are articles deep holes on each of the 200
one-half miles and you will see, standing displays in the Uni- covering a wide range of sub- claims it filed and did noth-
on the north side of the road, a versity of Arizona's Miner- jects, many of interest to the ing more. They further con-
small guest ranch. Take the alogical Museum. Especially rockhound whether from tended that Lucky Me was
dirt road past it to the moun- interesting is their exhibit of Caliofornia or elsewhere. The not occupying the claims nor
tain, approximately one and chemically identical minerals editorial content includes had they discovered any min-
one-half miles, to where the that occur in a variety of differ- geology, mining, seismology, erals. Geomet, therefore,
collecting begins. Prime mate- ent forms. They also have an paleontology, mineralogy and started their own search,
rial can be found all over the excellent display of Arizona other earth sciences. The an- finding uranium at some of
side of the hill and in many of rocks and gems, featuring ex- nual subscription price is the disputed locations. The
the adjacent ravines. quisite copper varieties. It's a *3.00 and I recommend it to court ruled in favor of
I have been informed by the stop well worth the time for those who would like to learn Geomet, saying "a mining
Silvery Colorado River Rock any rockhound. more about their hobby and claim must be worked ac-
Club that the Copper World Warning: According to Dr. Le- would like to be kept up to tively to confer exclusive pos-
Mine is once again open to col- land W. Marple, in an article date on some of the latest re- session on a c l a i m a n t . "
lecting. It was closed a few appearing in the Permian search. To subscribe, send Geomet was allowed to con-
years ago when a group Faceter, there are certain dan- your request and fee to the tinue their operations on the
started mining its beautiful gers to users of 100,000-grit California Division of Mines lands, even though Lucky Me
"Royal Blue" azurite commer- diamond spray compounds. If and Geology, P.O. Box 2980, had filed claim to the area
cially. Nice specimens of you should inhale this materi- Sacramento, CA 95812. three years earlier.
nRSFRT
What member of the lily
family, growing in the southwest U.S., is
used as an internal-external medicine,
a cosmetic, a fashionable drink, and
valued in gardens for its stately beauty?
book, "Aloes in Burns and Scalds," by J. E.
Crewe, M.D.
T
an effective shampoo, a skin cleanser and a
scar smoother. Being non-allergenic
^ ^ ^ N TNTIL
I L recent years the greatly enhances aloe's merits.
many uses for the gray-green succulent What is not well known is that aloes are
were little known except to Indians and a not native to the southwest. They were ,HE complex alkaloid
few botanists and herbalists. But with the planted in the New World by African slaves chemistry of aloe gel is still not completely
spiraling interest today in natural versus and even earlier by the Spaniards. JL. HE cohave found that
understood. Researchers
synthetic products, Aloe veru is becoming Wherever terrain and climate resembled aloes contain antibacterial properties
known throughout the world. Nurseries their native Mediterranean area, aloes took called anthraquinones; aloins (Barbaloin
banner it "The Medicine Plant" and lure root and spread. Later immigrants and Isobarbaloin) which are purgative; and
buyers, young and old, into lugging home considered them natives and were chrysophanic acid, a skin healer.
a graceful aloe to add to their gardens or to entranced by the three to four foot Ancient users, though ignorant of
sit on their kitchen window sills ready for vase-shaped beauty with its inflorescence alkaloids and aloins, nevertheless valued
any emergency. Mail order sales of aloe (flower) varying from yellow to coral, aloe so highly that even after centers of
products — gels, lotions, shampoos, adding a foot or more to the total height of civilization shifted to Western Europe, the
ointments, bottled drinks — have more the plant. plant was imported at great price. At one
than quadrupled in the last two years. Fortunately for everyone, the sun-loving time the King of Socotra, an Indian Ocean
Many, though not all, such companies are aloes will flourish in an imperfect setting. island south of Arabia, cornered
southwest-based to be close to the supply. The two conditions they refuse to abide are the market.
The Texas ranch of one firm boasts of standing water and icy winds. However, since aloe could not grow in
"over 100,000 aloes." Western Europe's cold, damp air they
Interest in a plant with attributes gradually fell into disuse. Then in the 1930s
strikingly akin to the supposed benefits of came X-rays and with them, the
elixers once hawked by medicine show
barkers is likely to continue to soar. For
these claims, unlike medicine show
cure-alls, are substantiated by documented
laboratory research and the enthusiastic
testimony of aloe users. Medicinal claims
range from relief of pain and healing of
M OST dramatic uses of
aloes involve burns. The gelatinous inside
of a split aloe leaf not only inhibits the
awful pain but usually leaves no tragic
frightening, hard to heal, ulcerous X-ray
burns. Medical researchers frantically
reactivated aloe.
One of these early researchers was C. E.
Collins. A commercial aloe gel sold today
bears his name. With better X-ray machines
and the easily synthesized antibiotics of the
burns (even X-ray burns) and ulcers scarring. That aloe dressings do not stick to next decades, aloe use see-sawed
including stomach ulcers, to eradication of burned skin is an advantage detailed in the downward. Today with nuclear dangers,
40 AUGUST, 1980
MOST DRAMATIC USES
OF ALOES INVOLVE BURNS.
Aloe vera should be at least three years old,
preferably older, before its juices
become most effective for healing.
current interest in herbs, and the growing
acknowledgement even among some
physicians that healing cannot be left
entirely to the profit-oriented drug
industry, Aloe veru is better known than
ever before.
w
should be clarified.
interest
snowballing, the many myths about aloe
V VITH inti true that Aloe
It is not
vera or its twin, Aloe barbadensis are the
only useful aloes among the over 200
varieties. While aloes are indeed
mentioned in the Bible, they are from a
totally different source — a resinous,
sweet-smelling Judean gum tree — and
were used as incense. A plant often
confused with aloes are agaves, which are
native to the New World. Both agaves and
aloes are useful plants and somewhat
similar in appearance, but there is no
similarity in their chemical properties.
It is true that some aloes grow in Hawaii
and the Orient, but the tourist who is
urged to buy a plant and smuggle it
through Customs is being hoodwinked. He
or she could probably get a plant free from
his neighbor or buy one for a few dollars at
the nearest nursery.
T
conditions. For
. O grow your own
outdoor aloe, simply give it cactus-like
- J best
L Oresults
gro indoors, fill
your pot with two parts loam and one part
coarse sand, broken brick, crushed
limestone, and a little bone meal. Drainage
is needed. After its flower becomes seed,
mix the seeds with sandy soil for
germination.
Desert dwellers in particular should
know about aloe, for sun and dry air can be
cruel to complexions. Aloe, in addition to
its healing qualities, appears to soften skin,
lessening and postponing wrinkles.
As researchers continue to explore
natural products they will find new uses for
this attractive member of the lily family. But
even if never used as a medicine, salve,
cosmetic or refreshing drink, aloes add
dignified beauty to the gardens of
the southwest. EH
THE FLIGHT OF
A Saga of
DesertSurvival
Rain Cloud, West-central New Mexico, July, 1979 (about 5:00 p.m.)
Nikon F camera, Tri-X film, F16,1/60 second
MARJORIE McCLOY
San Francisco, California
7
plant of any significant size in the world. to speculate as to what environmental wo nine-month delays have
That cost means a lot of money effects may result from the project, other pushed the Solar One completion
producing very little power, but it also than general statements like, "The main date back to late 1981, and they are
pushes solar power toward becoming effects probably will stem from the loss of the reason that the project cost estimate
financially competitive with other forms of water, and waste heat from the cooling rose recently from $123 to $139.5 million,
power generation. "Right now, it's unfair to tower." Also due for study are the effects of Reeves says, in addition to inflation. First,
characterize Solar One as economical, glare on aircraft and the hazard, if any, to in early 1978, President Carter pulled the
Reeves admits, since the cost is about plant and animal life, and the capability of federal funds for Solar One out of the
$14,000 per kilowatt, as opposed to about local water supplies to support a plant of budget, although Congress restored the
$1,200 per kw from a state-of-the-art coal or this kind. funds later that year. Then in late 1978,
nuclear plant. "It's a research project. It's difficulties arose between the Department
not intended to be economically of Energy and McDonnell Douglas over the
competitive," he adds. contract for the integration work. And at
However, with mass production of the this writing, Congress once again is
components, the price could drop into the " or Solar One, the specific plan is considering rescinding Department of
$2,000 to $3,000 per kilowatt range, Reeves
says. Use of "repowering" a solar facility' by
combining it with other power generation
f • for water in boiler tubes to be
heated by sunlight reflected from
the heliostat& The diameter of the boiler
Energy funds for Solar One.
However, the project has remained on
schedule in recent months and officials are
at the same site when the sun goes down will be 23 feet and the tube pannels on it confident it will stay at the $139.5 million
could drop the price to as low as $1,500 per will be 45 feet long, with each containing price. The capita! cost contributed by the
kilowatt. "It doesn't seem insurmountable 70 half-inch diameter nickel alloy utility consortium is about $21.5 million,
to get that price down to where it is steel tubes. while the Department of Energy supplies
competitive," he says, noting that the costs "The technology we're using here is a the rest. When complete, the Department
of other forms of power will continue to once-through system, which means water of Energy will own the solar portion and
rise. Sandia Corporation studies show the comes in the bottom and steam goes out the non-solar portion will be jointly owned
costs of solar power reaching a cross-over the top," says Reeves. "It's a little more by Edison (80 percent) and the Los Angeles
point with coal between 1985 and 1987, difficult to control than some other kinds Department of Water and Power (20
Reeves added. of boiler concepts, but we have plants percent).
SUN
S
ite clearance started last
September and sloped the ground
slightly north toward the nearby
Mojave River. First construction began in
January; the heliostats' concrete
foundations started being installed in
March. The visitors' center, located about a
mile south of the plant, should open in
mid-July. (Visitors won't be allowed on the
site itself for safety and security reasons.)
Construction of the receiver tower
should begin in late summer or early fall
and the heliostats will start appearing in
late fall. At the peak of construction
between next January and June, there will
be as many as 300 full-time workers on the
site, according to Terr}' Earl, field officer
and administrator at the project site.
Obviously, the situation for many is
temporary, since Solar One will employ
only 35 people once operations start. But
Earl says morale is high. "There's a lot of
excitement and optimistic feelings about
what we're doing here, but at the same
time, I have to admit that we're a little bit
reserved because it is a first-time thing and
the government's putting up a lot of
money. Obviously, the thing's not near as
efficient as a gas turbine plant, a coal plant
or even a hydroelectric plant. In other
words, it seems like we're spending a lot of
money to get a little, but if we learn
something, make some big leaps forward,
it's going to be well worthwhile. Sure, it's a
big initial cost, but then all you have is
operating and maintenance costs. Our fuel
has gone up well over 1000 percent over
the last few years."
I
f bats were beautiful, bat apologists accommodating as to fly right in. Instead,
would have an easy time convincing the bat uses its flexible wing tip just like a keeps them from foraging altogether. The
us that these animals should be left baseball mitt to scoop up the insect. A sudden appearance of these bats in the
to their upside-down devices. But beauty is quick transfer from wing to pocket holds middle of the desert, twenty or more miles
not the perogative of all animals, especially the insect until the bat is ready to eat. from the nearest rock)' outcrop, tree or
of web-winged, smelly, chittering, High-speed photography revealed this building, has prompted speculation that
beady-eyed, erratic creatures of the night. A behavior which is otherwise too fast to see. they may roost in kangaroo rat or other
bat's skin, particularly his wing membrane, During birth, the pocket plays a different rodent burrows. Such a hole would
is not pretty. Fortunately for bats, there is role. Most species of bats produce one provide necessary protection from the
in nature no absolute correlation between young a year; the pygmy canyon bat bears drying heat.
beauty and function: that same naked wing two each June. If ever there was a clear Heat is also a problem in flight. A
is an extraordinary machine — a case of laboring under a disadvantage, it's foraging bat, maneuvering swiftly to catch
combination catcher's mitt, blanket, air the thought of an upside-down bat giving insects, raises his body temperature and in
conditioner, swim fin, obstetrical birth. But actually, the position she chooses a hot climate this can be critical. Once
instrument and efficient tool for flight again the wings come to the rescue by
unique among mammals. providing a large surface to radiate heat
The pygmy canyon bat or Western from the body back into the air.
pipistrelle (Pipistrellushesperus) of the A bat locates his prey not with his
Southwestern desert is so small it looks as eyesight, which is rather poor, but by
if it might be a mouse with wings, but it is means of echolocation. Twenty to thirty
not a rodent. At elevations below 5,000 feet high frequency cries are uttered per
where creosote bush dominates the second by a foraging bat which is why he
landscape, this is one of the most common flies with his mouth open. The sound
bats. It is the smallest in North America, waves bounce off solid objects and travel
with a wingspan of barely six inches and a back to the bat's ears where the faint echos
body about two inches long. Like most are analyzed. This analysis is sophisticated
desert creatures he is light colored, but he enough to differentiate between the
is easily recognized by his contrastingly texture, wing beat frequency, flight pattern
dark wings and ears. and speed of a tasty insect and one that is
Curiously, bats are not related to birds disagreeable. Although it is theoretically
even though they both fly. They do have in KAREN SAUSMAN
possible for fine strands of hair to absorb
common that their very different ancestors his echolocating cries so he isn't aware
were too heavy to fly; however, the — hanging by her thumbs — is quite there is a hazard ahead, hair itself is not a
evolutionary solutions to this problem practical. The babies are caught in the bat-attractor. This fear, coupled with the
were not at all alike. Birds attained the pocket as they emerge from the birth canal, dread of rabies, accounts for most negative
requisite lightness with hollow bones, the and it's then up to them to crawl up the reactions to bats.
loss of some or all of their teeth and mother's body and start nursing. For the Rabies is a serous disease and bats do
through the fusion of hand bones into a next week or two, the mother bat's wings carry it, but the pygmy bat needn't cause
rigid support for feathers. Bats needed double as a blanket, gently enfolding her undue anxiety. He has such small teeth and
teeth to eat insects and flexible hands for young and keeping them warm. The babies weak jaws that his bite probably wouldn't
wing support, hence these developed at cling to her even during foraging flights even break the skin of a human being.
the expense of the leg bones which are so until they are old enough to be left on their Prolonged contact with a bat's waste
short and slender that, with the single own between feedings. products can transmit the disease, but the
exception of the vampire bat, they can't Our image of millions of bats roosting habits of this species make such
support body weight. Consequently bats overwintering together on the ceilings of contact unlikely. Bats seem to be the only
must hang by their toes or wedge caves is typical of colonial species that animals able to survive rabies, which
themselves sideways into small crevices hibernate. The canyon bat is not a social answers the question, "If a bat is infected,
that support the body. The wing bones are animal — in fact for a bat, he's a loner, why doesn't the disease kill off the
also slender and light, while the rubbery particularly in winter when he enters a whole colony?"
wing itself is so thin the muscles and torpid period akin to hibernation. At this In the desert, snakes, owls and perhaps
circulation are visible. time, when his metabolism slows and he is other raptors prey on canyon bats. The bats
Another dramatic difference between at rest, the bat's wings insulate him from themselves prey on enormous numbers of
the two animals is that a bat's wing, unlike a the cold. Wing muscles draw the insects. Their help is essential in keeping
bird's, is attached along the entire length of membrane into puckers against his body, insect populations in check and in
the body, including part of and sometimes creating a cocoon to conserve warmth and maintaining the balance of nature. There
all of the tail. When the tail is fully joined, moisture. are no bats on exhibit at this time at the
as it is in the pygmy canyon bat, and is held "Fledermaus," the German word for bat, Living Desert Reserve, but the story of this
forward, a useful little pocket is formed. translates as "flitter mouse," a particularly interesting and helpful little animal is
Insect-eating bats literally catch their prey apt description of the weak and erratic included in the educational programs the
on the wing. Although they fly with mouth flight of pygmy canyon bats. They aren't Reserve offers to school children
agape, it is the rare gnat or moth who is so strong enough to combat more than a throughout Southern California.
ATTr.TKT 1080
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'MU
Hamburger
by Stella Hughes
50 AUGUST, 1980
American cheese
1 pound ground beef
4 hamburger buns, split and toasted
Combine catsup, onion and mustard. Add
WEST
cheese and ground beef; mix well. Shape
into 4 patties. Grill over medium heat
MAPS
about 6 minutes. Turn and grill 4 to 6
minutes more, or until of desired 'IT COSTS TO GET LOST!'
doneness. Serve in buns.
A sauce for hamburgers that is a real taste Don't use a road map.
treat can be made by combining:
2 tablespoons margarine or butter HLJseaTOPOmap.
2 tablespoons chopped onion Let us help you find
2 tablespoons chopped green pepper your heart's desire: Gold,
1/2 cup catsup Ghost Towns, Hiking Trails
2 teaspoons cornstarch Travel by-ways or Wildlife.
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/2 cup beer Just $1.75 plus $1.30 shipping
1 teaspoon salt per order.
Melt margarine or butter; add onion and
green pepper and cook until tender. (Calif, residents add 6% sales tax)
Combine catsup, cornstarch and We have 29,000 USGS Quads
Worcestershire. Stir into vegetables. Add of all western states
beer. Heat and stir just to boiling. This
sauce can be used on barbecuing WESTWIDEMAPSCO.
hamburgers during cooking or spooned Topographic Maps
over hamburgers, hot, after placing 114 West 3rd Street
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Call WalkerS. Clute Picture Yourself in One of
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16 slices rye bread with caraway seed
1 cup Thousand Island dressing
8 slices ( 1 ounce each) Swiss cheese
ft Jeep Now available for men and women.
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divide into 8 equal portions. Toast slices SALES-LEASING Medium, Large, X-Large. CLAM MAN pictun
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with 1 tablespoon dressing. Arrange 8 We Service What We Sell 50% cotton, 50% polyester. Colors: Lt. Blue
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New and simple technique in basic double crochet creates Calif, residents add 6% sales tax.
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1 medium onion chopped P.O. BOX 212 P.O. Box 1318
Cover. Chill one hour or more. Drain wel ALAM0G0RD0, NEW MEXICO 88310 Palm Desert, CA 92261
DESERT 51
. - - • -
SUCCESSFUL COIN HUNTING by Charles I.. THE PEOPLE'S GUIDE TO MEXICO by Carl
Gold Garrell. A complete guide on where to search,
metal detector selection and use, digging tools
Franz. The I.A Times says: "For valuable help as
well as entertainment ... lets you know what a
WHERE TO FIND GOLD IN THE MOTHER and accessories, how to dig, and the care and visit to Mexico is really like.' Tips on personal
LODE by James Klein. The author is a partner in handling of coins. Newly revised. Ph., 231 preparation, your car, driving in Mexico, public
K & M Mining Explorations Company, which is pgs.,$5-95. transportation, hitching, hotels, rentals, camp-
now developing three gold mining claims. In- ing, economizing, restaurants, foods, markets,
cludes a history of the gold rush, geology of the stores, cooking, alcohol, services, health, tourists
Mother Lode, where to find gold, county by and the law, speaking Spanish, customs,
county, and how to find gold, including informa-
tion on equipment, panning, dredging, and how
Baja California machismo, buying things, red tape, maps, in-
formation, and personal anecdotes! Pb., 6" x 9".
to stake a claim. Ph., 121 pgs., $4.95. A FIELD GUIDE TO THE COMMON AND IN- 579 pgs., $9.00.
TERESTING PLANTS OF BAJA CALIFORNIA
WHERE TO FIND GOLD IN THE DESERT by by Jeanette Coyle and Norman Roberts. Over
James Klein. Where to find gold in the 250 plants are described with 189 color photos.
Rosamond-Mohave area, the El Paso Mountains,
Randshurg, and Barstow areas, and main" more.
Includes past and present uses of the plants by
aborigines and people in Baja today. Scientific,
Cookery
Ph., 112 pgs., $4.95. Spanish, and common names are given. Excel- CHUCK WAGON COOKIN' by Stella Hughes.
lent reference and highly recommended. 224 (Desert Magazine Bookstore's No. 1 best-seller.)
pgs., Ph., $8.50. Recipes collected straight from the source —
HIGH MOUNTAINS AND DEEP VALLEYS by cowboy cooks. Contains Mexican recipes, in-
Lew and Ginny Clark, with photographs by structions for deep-pit barbecue, the art of using
Edwin C. Rockwell. A history and general guide THE CAVE PAINTINGS OF BAJA CALIFOR- Dutch ovens for cooking, and everything from
book to the vast lands east of the High Sierra, NIA, The Great Murals of an Unknown People sourdough biscuits to Son-of-Gun stew. Ph., 170
south of the Comstock Lode, north of the Mojave by Harry Crosby. A sequel to his THE KING'S pgs., $8.50
Desert, and west of Death Valley, by oldtimers HIGHWAY IN BAJA CALIFORNIA, the author pre-
who know the area. Ph., 192 pgs., 250 photo- sents a tantalizing disclosure of a sweeping
graphs, and many maps. $6.95. panorama of great murals executed by an un- SOURDOUGH COOKBOOK by Don and Myr-
known people in a land which has barely been tle Holm. Flow to make sourdough starter and
penetrated by man. Beautifully illustrated with many dozens of sourdough recipes, plus amus-
THE GOLD HEX fti' Ken Marquiss. Strange gold ing anecdotes by the authors of the popular OLD
tales such as "Jim Dollar's Jimdandy," "Tybo color reproductions of cave paintings and
sketches of figures which appear on cave walls FASHIONED DUTCH OVEN COOKBOOK. A
Three Shot," "Buzztail Loot" and "The Lost new experience in culinary adventures. Ph., 136
Droopy Angel' Lode." Pb., illus. with photos and in four different mountain ranges. Hb., large
format, 174 pgs., $18.50. slick pgs., illus., $4.95.
maps, 146 pgs., $3.50.
52 AUGUST, 1980
several tragic incidents during the 1849 Califor- INDIAN BASKET WEAVING, How to Weave MINES OF JULIAN by Helen Ellsberg Fuel.-, MK.1
nia Gold Rush. Pb., 186 pgs., many black and Porno, Yurok, Pima ami Navajo Baskets, by lore of the bygone mining days when Julian, in
white photographs, sketches, and maps, $595. Sandra Come Newman. Besides explicit infor- Southern California, is reported to have pro-
mation on gathering and preparation of natural duced some seven million dollars of bullion.
materials and weaving techniques, the author Pb.,well illus., $2.50.
BACK ROADS OF CALIFORNIA by Karl Thol-
lancler and the Editors of Sunset Books. Early brings out the meaning of the craft to the par-
takers of these traditions. Pb., lavishly illus., 91
stagecoach routes, missions, remote canyons,
old prospector cabins, mines, cemeteries, etc., pgs., $4.95. Hiking
are visited as the author travels and sketches
California's back roads. Through maps and BACKPACKING GUIDE TO SAN DIEGO
notes, the traveler is invited to get off the free- COUNTY by Skip Ruland. An informative, no-
ways and see the rural and country lanes
throughout the state. Ph., large format, unusually
Mining nonsense primer to day hiking and extended
several-day trips into the Southern California
beautiful illustrations, 207 pgs., $6.95. FROM THIS MOUNTAIN, CERRO GORDO by mountain and desert back country, covering
Robert C Likes and Glenn R. Day. The height of more territory than the title suggests. Also this
THE NEVADA DESERT by Sessions S. Wheeler. the boom, the decline, the entire history of this little book contains emergency information use-
Provides information on Nevada's state parks, mining outpost of Cerro Gordo, is told in detail. ful wherever you hike or travel in the back
historical monuments, recreational areas and Pb., illus., $3.95. country. Pb., 80 pgs., several maps and sketches,
suggestions for safe, comfortable travel in the $2.95. '
remote sections of western America. Pb., illus.,
168 pgs., $2.95. TELLURIDE "FROM PICK TO POWDER" by BACK COUNTRY ROADS AND TRAILS, SAN
Richard I., and Suzanne Fetter. The Fetters have DIEGO COUNTY by Jerry Schad. Concentrating
THE COMPLEAT NEVADA TRAVELER by written about one of the wildest mining towns of on the mountains and desert of So. California's
David W. Toll. Not the usual guidebook, the Colorado, one that had its own law and was the San Diego Count)', there are trips to the Palomar
author has divided the state into four regions: prototype for hundreds of Hollywood movies. Mountains, the Julian area, the Cuyamaca Moun-
mining country, Big Bonanza country, cattle The people that made up Tellurides day in- tains, the l.aguna Mountains, and the Anza-
country, and Mormon country, with special in- cluded Butch Cassidy and his Hole in the Wall Borrego Desert. Trips reachable by car, bicycle
formation on big game hunting, rock-hounding, gang who found the bank in Telluride too rich to or on foot. Ph., 96 pgs., illus. with maps and
the Nevada state park system, maps, etc. Toll pass up. Big Billy, the kindhearted madam, and photographs, $4.95.
includes the humorous sidelights of Nevada's L. L. Nunn, the eccentric genius who used alter-
history and its scandalous events, all in a light, nating current for the generation of power for DESERT HIKING GUIDE by John A. Fleming. A
readable style. Ph., 278 pgs., $3.50. the first time anywhere. With black and white clearly-presented guide, describing 25 day hikes
photographs, maps, reprints from Tellurides in the Coachella Valley of Southern California,
DESERT VACATIONS ARE FUN by Robert newspaper, and their last chapter, "A Walking from Palm Springs to the Salton Sea. There is a
Tour of Telluride," the Fetters have written an map for location of each hike, total mileage per
Needham. A complete, factual and interesting informative and highly readable history. Pb., 194
handbook for the desert camper. Valuable in- pgs., 9" x 6", $4.95. hike given, round trip time, and elevation gain.
formation on weather conditions, desert vehi- Pb., 8-1/2" x 5-1/2", 28 pgs., $2.50.
cles, campsites, food and water requirements, in
addition to desert wildlife, mines, ghost towns,
and desert hobbies. Pb., illus., 10 maps, 134
pgs., $3.95. Desert Magazine Book Shop
HOT SPRINGS AND POOLS OF THE Order Form
SOUTHWEST by Jayson loam. A delightful di-
rector)' compiled by the Aqua Thermal Associa- Name
tion, with detailed descriptions, photographs
maps, history of hot springs and mineral waters Address
in California, Nevada, Arizona, and New Mexico. Citv _State_ _Zip.
Complete, well-indexed and researched. Pb., I enclose $_ _(check, money order or charge)
9-1/8" x 7-3/8", 192 pgs., $7.95.
MY CHARGE: • • VISA'
Indian Lore
Credit Card No.
SPEAKING OF INDIANS by Bemice Johnston.
An authority on the Indians of the Southwest, the
author has presented a concise, well-written Expiration Date MasterCharge
book on the customs, history, crafts, ceremonies Interbank No.
and what the American Indian has contributed Month/Year
to the white man's civilization. A MUST for both
students and travelers touring the Indian coun- Signature
try. Heavy Pb., illus., $2.95.
(charge not valid unless signed)
AMERICAN INDIAN FOOD AND LORE by
Carolyn Neithammer. The original Indian plants
used for foods, medicinal purposes, shelter,
clothing, etc., are described in detail in this fas-
cinating book. Common and scientific names,
plus descriptions of each plant and unusual
recipes. Large format, profusely illus., 191 pgs.,
$5.95.
INDIAN JEWELRY MAKING, Vol. I, by Oscar
T. Branson. This book is intended as a step-by-
step how-to-do-it method of making jewelry. An
intriguing all-color publication that is an asset to California residents add 6% sales tax
the consumer as well as to the producer of Postage/handling
Indian jewelry today because it provides the
basic knowledge of how jewelry is made so one TOTAL
can judge if it is well made and basically good
design. Large format, Pb., $7.95. Ordering Information $1.50 postage per order, NOT each item.
Use the convenient order form. Print all information Normally, we ship within 48 hours of receiving your order.
POTTERY TREASURES, The Splendor of In the event of a delay exceeding two weeks, you will be
Southwest Indian Art, Photography by Jerry dearly.
Jacka; Text by Spencer Gill. A beautiful all four- On orders exceeding $20.00 United Parcel Service is used notified as to its cause.
color publication showing the intriguing de- requiring a deliver}' address and NOT a box number. California residents please add 6% sales tax. Prices are
signs of the masters of the Indian pottery makers All orders shipped in padded containers or cartons. Add subject to change and supplies Iimitd to available stock.
of the American Southwest. You will learn of
clays and colors and the traditional methods of Mail today to:
handforming, finishing, and firing. Large format Desert Magazine Book Shop P.O. Box 1318, Palm Desert, California 92261
$9.95.
DESERT 53
You THE
AEHNGPOST
can MAPS
reprints month preceding cover date. Moore, P.O. Box 1429-D, Monrovia' CA 91016
Ads requesting response to a P.O. Box num-
ber will not be considered for publication MEMBERSHIPS
from
unless accompanied by the full street ad- TRAILERS & CAMPERS: Membership available for
dress and phone number of the advertiser. Panamint Springs Campground in beautiful Panamint
This information, for the publisher's records Valley, California. Write for Brochure to: L Vose, P.O.
only, is required by law. Box 245, River Pines, CA 95675
PROSPECTING
PROSPECTORS SUPPLIES, Books and information on
29 Palms gold area available at Mac Mahon's Rock
54 AUGUST, 1980
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find them all in the 1980 Jeep Wagoneer Superior performance is the Jeep trade- gether to provide unsurpassed traction and
Limited. With all these most wanted op- mark! Features like automatic transmission, superb towing capabilities. On-road or off—
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Rich leather seats, extra-thick carpet- ^^^^ We invite you to test drive the 1980 Jeep
ing, woodgrain trim —you're surrounded in A |^%^%V% Wagoneer Limited. You'll quickly under-
comfort. And brand new for 1980, con- J^ ^^r
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veniences like power windows, power door *~® ultimate in 4-wheel drive.
locks, and a quartz digital clock. Plus a We Wrote the bOOk 011 4-wheel drive Jeep Corporation, a subsidiary of American Motors Corp.