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AUGUST, 1980 $1.

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VOLUME 43 NUMBER 7 August, 1980
ISSN 0194-3405

CONTENTS
"Oh, for wings like a dove, to fly away and rest! I would fly to far off deserts and stay there."
— Psalms 55:6,7

Features
THE MISSIONS THE CACTUS CITY
OF CENTRAL
BAJA by Jane Eppinga
31 CLARION Mary E. Twyman, Ed.
The Nosiest Newspaper in the West
The Legacy of the Other Mexico

12 TREASURE
THE LOST 40 THE VERSATILE
ALOE by Marian Seddon
OF and Dorothy Parcel
TUMACACORI by Choral Pepper Rx in the Desert
New Twists to an Old Trail

42 THE FLIGHT OF
WILLIE BOY by T C. Weir
A Saga of Desert Survival

15 THE FISCHER SUN COOKER


Deserts Product of the Month

16 SORTING RATTLESNAKE FACT


FROM RATTLESNAKE
46 ENERGY FROM THE
FICTION by Karen Sausman SUN by Dave McNary
Or Have You Hugged Your Snake Today?
A Status Report on Solar One
WILLIAM HENRY
20 JACKSON by Marian Clover Departments
The Artist and the Man
LETTERS 5
EDITORIAL 6
DESERT ROCKHOUND 36
DESERT CALENDAR 37
PHOTO CONTEST 45
THE LIVING DESERT 48
CHUCK WAGON COOKIN' 50

Cover
A touch of white on an old shack
COAL, COMO AND makes it a home once again.
CHRISTMAS by Dan B. McCarthy Photograph taken in Madrid, New
A Combo That May Revive Madrid, New Mexico Mexico by David Muench.

DESERT 3
Editor
Donald MacDonald
Art Director/Photo Editor

The CAXTON PRINTERS, Ltd.


Thomas Threinen
Production Director
Barry Berg
Managing Editor
P.O. Box 700 Mary E. Twyman
Ass't. Managing Editor
Caldwell, Idaho 83605 Pat I. Williams
Staff Photographer
Guy Motil
W e take pride in the production of fine books Art Associate
lane Divel
for the readers of Western American history — Contributing Editors
Karen Sausman, Natural Sciences
Wayne P. Armstrong, Natural Sciences
with particular emphasis on the history of the Jerry and Luisa Klink, Baja California
Merle H. Graffam, Cartographer
Pacific Northwest and the Rocky Mountain Production Assistance
Jan Garland
region. Arlene Smith
Special Services
Doug Bunting
Write for a Free Catalog. Lithographed by World Color Press
Offered in Microfilm
by Xerox University Microfilms
Publisher

MOVING?
SO YOU WILL NOT MISS AN ISSUE
Metal Detectors, Geologists,
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NOTIFY US SIX WEEKS IN ADVANCE. Topo Maps, Books. Subscription Fulfillment
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Desert is published monthly by Cactus Paper-
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pending at Sparta, Illinois (USPS 154-940). Con-
tents copyrighted 1980 by Desert Magazine, and
permission to reproduce any or all contents must
First Phase of Our Remodeling be secured in writing. Unsolicited manuscripts
and photographs are encouraged, but will not be
returned unless accompanied by a self-
Program Now Completed addressed, stamped envelope or international ex-
change coupons. Writers Guide tree with SASE;
sample copy, $1.50.
PEGLEG SMITH'S NUGGETS I made a 16 mm sound film on the site Felipe. Why is it no one ever writes about
There are two intriguing hypotheses which I titled "Lost for a Hundred Years." the seamy side of vacation spots?
outlined in the lively exchange between In spite of pleas of former editors of Lillian Dudicz
Choral Pepper and Don MacDonald Desert I would not write an article about Hayward, Calif.
(Desert, June 1980) giving new points of the site since it has been my experience You just did.
view for someone interested in searching that once a place is known, vandals quickly
for the lost Pegleg nuggets. However, I destroy it.
must submit that both are highly However, since the site is now public LEST WE FORGET
improbable. information, I wish for the record to give Altho your June 1980 issue of Desert
"Desert varnish" is not formed by Lee Simmons, Curator of the Mono County boggled these weary old eyes with its
copper dioxide from the nuggets Museum in Bridgeport, Calif, credit for magnifisense, the hole thang went thunk
themselves. The precious metals in the "re-discovering" the town. It was he in July, when I coodn't low-cate the Bible
nuggets protect the copper in solid 1969 who led us up the steep and quotation. Tsk, Tsk, my dear Mr. Mac, we
solution so that it does not preferentially dangerous trail to Boulder Flat so we could mussn't fergit our 'umble beginnins and
come to the surface as oxide. Rather, the make our movie. If readers contact me, I from whence all good thangs cum.
varnish is manganese and iron oxides, plus may be willing to rent this one-of-a-kind Minnie Contretemps
small amounts of many trace elements. The film, which is in color, for showing to Truth & Consequences, N.M.
manganese compounds (and some iron) interested audiences. We ain't fergettin, Minnie. Them quotes
are brought to the surface by capillary Jay Clark jist got left out one month by an errant art
migration and/or migration through films Hartford, Calif. director.
of moisture on the pebbles during Those wishing to show this film may write
infrequent desert rains. Evaporation, Mr. Clark at 1000 E. Myrtle St. in Hanford.
oxidation and precipitation take place to RENO'S STILL BOOMING
create the varnish, and thus happens ALONG
dominantly on the exposed upper surfaces BAJA PRO AND CON There's a bit of misinformation in your
and sides of the pebbles. With rare I just finished your April 1980 issue with its June (1980) issue about casino closings in
exceptions this happens only where desert articles on Baja. About five years ago we Reno. Your first line is "The Money Tree
conditions are severe. It does not happen along with a group of friends from here has dried up ..." to which I'm sure Charley
in northern California and thus it is made the trek down through Calexico and Mapes would take issue. Only the newly
improbable that the Pegleg nuggets into Baja. We spent a number of days in San renovated portion on West 2nd at Sierra
originated there. Felipe and enjoyed it immensely. At that has closed. Secondly you state that "two
If the nuggets had been dropped from a time the Clam Man had a spot on the other downtown casinos have closed in
mule train in Arizona or Southern busiest corner in town; chanting "Don't recent weeks ..." and again you are a bit
California, there would not have been time forget the Clam Man," he was the center of off, to wit:
for them to become coated with desert attraction. Then we pushed further south All of our local closings happened last
varnish and so resemble other pebbles. to Puertocitos where we camped for about year, and there are only two downtown, the
C. B. Hunt in 1971 established that desert a week and enjoyed the hot natural baths second being the Horseshoe almost
varnish in the western U.S. is more than and the cooking at Caeser's. The beauty of next-door to the Moneytree. Our other
2,000 years old. In fact, Eiiot Blackwelder Baja captivated us and since then, we have closing was a new kid up the block, name
cited good evidence in 1948 that dark gone back five times, always enjoying good of Claimstake, in Sparks which is several
varnish in the Egyptian desert is more than food and excellent hospitality. miles from downtown Reno. Believe me
5,000 years old. San Felipe has grown and changed so when I say that Sparksites do not consider
If they were picked up elsewhere in the much during this short period of time that themselves citizens of Reno. You now
southwest desert and dropped, it is difficult it is amazing. Even an airport! In a way it is stand corrected. If you should be in our
to imagines// of them fal ling with the sad. For those like us who have to travel so area, by all means stop by and say howdy,
heavy coating of desert varnish up. Since far, Baja is the last frontier. I hope you we'll be glad to show you some
all accounts seem to agre:e that the nuggets don't entice too many more tourists, for boom-town hospitality.
can be distinguished from the surrounding Baja is beautiful the way it is. Kirt R. Harmon
pebbles only by the difference in weight, it R. B. Hayward Reno, Nev.
would seem clear that they have been in Provo, Utah.
their present position for 2,000 or more
years. In other words, they must be sought We traveled across Baja east from Ensenada APOLITICAL
by geologic rather than archeologic to San Felipe and saw nothing but dirt, Desert Magazine reflects a growing
criteria. rocks and in the middle of it all, the concern for ecological adventures and
Earl Ingerson poverty of Valle de Trinidad, an agricultural utilization of one's appreciation of our
Austin, Texas area which was the only beauty spot in 160 natural resources. Let us save "political
miles. views and quotable quotes" for gossip
We stayed in a trailer camp owned by the magazines and continue to present
OTHERS WERE THERE FIRST chief of police. It was 94 degrees in and out informative, historical insights to the silent
I see (Desert, May 19800 that the story of of the ocean and the humidity was majority of Desert adventurers. Your
Boulder Flats has at last been told, and I unbearable. Whenever we used the magazine has long been a standard
must say that the article a.nd pictures were bathroom or shower, one of us had to reference source for my students.
interesting and well done. stand guard or someone (native) would Dr. Guy D. Mazza
Back in 19691 explored Boulder Flat and peek in. We saw nothing beautiful in San Stanford, Calif.
LIME PDU1ELL
DFF-SEHSDn IS JUST HS
BEHUTIFUl BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE
It's the greatest for summer family fun.
OF THE BEHOLDER
Wahweap, Bullfrog and Mite resorts/marinas The two thoughtful letters from readers cable. It never occurred to them that the
are open year around, but you really should Hayward and Dudicz you'll see on page 5 knife might seem ominous, to us. And
try us in the spring, fall and winter...
of this issue present diametrical reactions when offered payment for their trouble,
to a few days spent by each individual in they refused. When offered money with
San Felipe. Both impressions are equally which to buy some beer, they accepted.
Not only for moderate temperatures,/ better valid and both deserved their airing. Mexicans are not lazy. Those gleaming
fishing and less crowded conditions, but for However, Hayward and Dudicz judged all clothes on the children were whitened on
of Baja from visits to a single area. a washboard at home. The one-room
Savings to Baja in truth is a land of contrasts and
what seems seamy to one may be beautiful
to another. It is a land of infinite variety but
house was built by its owner. The fence of
dried ocotillo was gathered piece by piece
from miles away. Manana as is commonly
others see only sameness, a conflict typical supposed does not mean "tomorrow" to
among visitors to deserts everywhere. And them; it means "I will do it but not now."
what seemed to have been rude ogling I have a friend in San Felipe named
may derive from no more than the Freddy and he is troubled. He had spent a
curiosity of a child. few months at a college in California and
For the people of Baja, in their infinite then returned to his town. There he is the
variety, share in some childlike qualities. headwater and sometimes manager of a
Away from the few major cities, there is no restaurant where the tourists eat and he
television and few telephones. What may married and has three children.
seem to a visitor to be abject poverty and His exposure to our way of life made
therefore, unhappiness, often obscures a him aware of poverty even though he is far
wholesomeness unknown to North from poor by San Felipe standards. It has
Americans. A dirt floor is dirty to us; to a made him ambitious and discontented and
Mexican, it is clean when it is swept as it I am sure that someday he will "succeed,"
constantly is. whether it be in San Felipe or, perhaps, up
Look at the children on the way to here. But he is unhappy because he has
school, squeak)' clean in body and clothes. seen and compared. And the more he
And also in soul as are, for the most part, serves the tourists, the further away seem
their mothers and fathers. Drop something his dreams. Envy has entered his
of value from your car as you pass. Try this. relationships with visitors. It is ironic, for I
Some child will run after you for a mile so envy him the chance to live in San Felipe.
as to return it. As will their parents. So when you go there or anywhere else
Meet a "poor" Mexican famiy and accept in the "other Mexico," pity the Freddies
the invitation to visit their home. Realize a who have been contaminated with our way
jar of Nescafe has cost more than a day's and envy the vast majority who haven't.
wages but you will be offered coffee, and They are truly happy and it is contagious!
good conversation about simple things
such as the quality of the fish in yesterday's
catch or the health of a baby new to a
neighbor.
The man may look at your car and ask
you with directness how much it cost. Do NOTICE: Most of our subscribers
not be offended; he simply is curious to recently received a letter from us
know, and it is a curiosity without envy for suggesting they renew at a special $9.00
he has little use for such a car. He has ($17.00 for two years) rate. A heart-
accepted where he is in life. Have you? warming number took advantage of this
Mexicans are proud, whatever their offer, and for that we thank you, but
Send color and rale brochures on
station. And they are sensitive. This is not a there was some question about the
Wahweap, Bullfrog and Hite resorts/marina; defensive sensitivity. They accept you. They Goleta, Calif., return address on the
Name
wonder if you will accept them and should envelope. You'll see that sometimes and
you not, they have no wish to be bruised. also, P.O. Box 28816 in San Diego 92128.
Address.
Recently one of the vehicles in our party It's because we've moved our
City _ State _ entered some road construction with too subscription service to those locations
much speed and the jouncing knocked the where there are computers which can
Mail to:
battery from its mount. The battery while handle the ever-growing volume. But
Lake Powell Resorts B marines DM falling severed its ground cable and the there are also people, as before, and
Box 2904D, Phoenix, AZ 85038 car died. they're ready to help you with any
New central reservations system: Before the others ahead could return to subscription problem. Just write to
West of Mississippi call toll-free 1-800-528-6154. the scene, some Mexican teenagers had Desert at the San Diego address. You'll
In Arizona, call (602) 264-8466. stopped, diagnosed the problem, and with get a prompt, personal reply.
switchblade in hand, were regrounding the

6 AUGUST, 1980
The MISSIONS of
CENTRAL BAJA
by Jane Eppinga The mission
As the Diaz Ordaz ferryboat inched its
way into Santa Rosalia's harbor, we entered
complex at
El Otro Mexico. Even natives call Baja Mulege sits
California the other Mexico. This harsh,
beautiful country is little changed since the
within sight of
Spanish padres founded their missions the better
here over 300 years ago. The priests settled
where Indians had congregated along the
known men's
rivers near arable land. Now Father prison in the
Charlies Polzer was taking a study group
into Baja, and those who weren't seasoned
same town.
Baja types before the trip were certainly so
afterwards.
After disembarking, we drove to Mulege
and registered at the Hotel Presidente.
Some years ago with the opening of the
Transpeninsular Highway, the Mexican
government figured that Baja's tourist
business would boom so they built the
string of El Presidentes. But business did
not meet their expectations so as a result,
some of these hotels have fallen into
disrepair. Still, they are relatively
inexpensive and comfortable. Jorge Yee, a
camp cook for Erie Stanley Gardner when
he travelled in Baja served us a delicious
seafood platter. The next morning our
journey to the missions of Central
Baja began.

The CHURCH of
SANTA ROSALIA de
MULEGE
In August of 1704, Padres Francisco
Piccolo and Manuel Basauldna, with the
guidance of some friendly Indians, entered
Mulege estuary and founded a mission
approximately where the present church
stands. They employed Christian Cochimis
to further the faith. A blind man Andres
Sestiaga took charge of the mission and
Bernardo Adaba was named governor.
The present church was completed
around 1766 by Padre Escalante. Some
restorations are obvious but it is still a
lovely church. The stonework character
preserves the feeling of originality.

NUESTRO VIRGEN
de LORETO
Fathers Salvatierra and Piccolo built a
small provisional chapel at Loreto in 1697.
Then they carried the image of Nuestra
Virgen de Loreto from the ships and placed San Javier, one of the
it before the mission door. The soldiers
took possession of the land in the name of most active of the
the King of Spain. After a few hostilities, the missions under Padre
Jesuits gained the Indians' trust and built
more permanent structures from rocks Miguel del Barco, is still
quarried in the area. in use today.
The present mission, dating from 1699,
has been extensively restored through the
efforts of Padre Sanchez Mayon. Some
years ago he won a lottery premium and
was able to provide the church with a new
bell tower and make extensive repairs.
8 AUGUST, 1980
Inside there is a lovely gilded retablo, under Padre Miguel del Barco. It is to him
some original alabaster fonts and that we owe a debt for the extensive flora
interesting oil paintings. and fauna documentation. Ancient
aqueducts which even preceded the padres
SAN JUAN are still in use.

BAUTISTAdeLONDO SAN JUAN


This Jesuit outpost was founded in 1699
by Padre Salvatierra. By 1745 there were no BAUTISTAtffe MALIBAT
people and no missionaries, and so it was 1703 was a hard year for Baja's
abolished as a mission. missionaries, who were constantly
The Cochimi Indians of this area were besieged by hostile Indians but eventually,
perhaps among the most rebellious. Spanish soldiers captured the ringleaders
Although Salvatierra succeeded in and hanged them over the protests of
establishing a church, on at least one the padres.
occasion he was personally attacked. A Salvatierra took advantage of the ensuing
wall, restored by a local priest, and some peace to explore inland. Accompanied by
ruins are all that remain of Londo. Padre Ugarte's brother Pedro, he visited
Ligui (San Juan Bautista de Malibat).
SAN BRUNO Several children were brought for baptism.
Although San Bruno is deserted with All that remains of the chapel founded in
only some weathered foundation rocks, it 1704 is a ring of foundation stones around
once marked the germination for the seeds a large mesquite tree. This may have been
of faith in New Spain. Here the great the original chapel.
Sonoran missionary, Padre Eusebio Kino,
founded his first mission on October 6,
1685. With Father Gogni, Kino made
The MISSION of
excellent progress with the Indians, but COMANDU '
capricious weather destroyed their crops The Valley of the Stones or Comandu
and after a year they were forced to leave. near Villa Isurgentes and Pancho Villa
contains three villages — San Jose, San
SAN FRANCISCO JAVIER Miguel and Viejo. About 1920 in San Miguel
a Mexican general tore down the church to
de VIGGE BIAUNDO obtain material to build himself a fine
Weaving through the Arroyo de los house. Legend has it that the house became
Parras, a sparsely inhabited region dotted haunted and the general was forced to flee.
with goat ranches, you will come upon San Today, one can wander through the house
Francisco Javier de Vigge Biaundo, which which has fallen into disrepair and wonder
was founded in 1699 by Padre Piccolo. The what ghosts still lurk in its corners.
present church was completed in 1759 and The original Comandu Mission at San
its stone architecture is among the most Jose was built in 1708 by Padre Julian
beautiful in Mexico. The cross of the Mallorga who also built schools, a hospital
ecclesiastical court marks the entrance to and introduced citrus, grapes and sugar
the town and leads to the church. cane. Several churches were built and
The cool snowy white interior cannot destroyed. In 1737 Padre Wagner built the
fail to impress. The fonts, one of alabaster, church which was probably the one razed
the other of native volcanic rock, reflect the by the Mexican general. The only original
irregular architectural shapes. The primitive parts of San Jose's churches are a small
character of missions such as San Javier is chapel, an alabaster pedestal, some
a result of utilization of solid natural forms paintings and bells.
which are distinguished by their charming On the treacherous road to El Horno,
simplicity. Even San Javier's arched roof is you will find an old lime kiln which is
of decorated stonework. The gilded probably the one used in the construction
retablos which came from Spain are of the original mission.
especially beautiful. Perhaps the people of Comandu have
Because of friendly Indians and a land not been strongly tied to the original
which could be irrigated by a nearby structural design in the rebuilding of their
stream, Father Piccolo decided to found church, but at least they were faithful to the
this mission. Salvatierra dedicated the spirit of the pioneer missionaries. They are
church to San Francisco Javier on a people proud of their church and its
November 1,1699. In 1701 Padre Juan de place in history.
Ugarte took charge and remained here til
his death in 1730. Ugarte was the type of
man of whom legends are made. He is said The RUINS of
to have been so disgusted with the local la PURISIMA
worship of the mountain lion, that he slew The drive through La Purisima Valley
and ate one of them to disprove the cat's brings you to the ruins of La Purisima. The
omnipotence. village of La Purisima Concepcion can give
Ugarte introduced sheep and goats and a feeling of sadness and despair. With
planted cotton and olive trees, which are fertile land and plenty of water, it should
forbearers of the plants in the area today. be at least as well off as Comandu but the
He also built a hospital and home for the people seem to have given up.
aged. From 1741 to 1768, San Javier was However, La Purisima Concepcion is not
PHOTOGRAPHS: JANE EPPINGA
.=#$
Loreto (oppositepage) is
the "Mother" of
California missions.
Ruins (below) are La
Purisma, (lower right)
Londo, and (right)
Rosario Baja.

without historical significance. Padre delicious lunch, however, will revive spirits Duchess of Gandia, who had bequeathed a
Piccolo selected this spot for a mission and and help you find the energy and large sum of money to found three
called it La Purisima Concepcion de Maria enthusiasm to attend Father Charlie's Mass missions on the Baja peninsula. The figs,
Cadgomo after a nearby ranch. Local at one of Baja's most beautiful missions, olives, grapes, and dates of today were
Indians begged him to stay and he San Ignacio de Kaadekamen. originally introduced by Padre Linck.
requested a missionary for this area. But it The Oasis of San Ignacio is situated near After the Jesuit expulsion, Fray Fermin
would be 1717 before one would arrive. In the arroyo Carrizal in the Sierra de San Francisco Lasuen took over this wealth)'
the meantime the Indians had to content Vicente. Padre Juan Loyando founded the mission. On June 12,1773 it was conveyed
themselves with Piccolo's frequent visits. mission in 1728 and the present church to the Dominicans, Padres Manuel Garcia
In March of 1717 young Padre Nicolas was built later by Padre Consag. It is and Jose Aibar. Today five families live in
Tamaral arrived in Loreto with a letter remarkably well-preserved and the interior the immediate mission area and their
requesting Salvatierra's presence in possesses three gilded retablos names date back to the Spanish conquest
Mexico City. The journey proved too from Spain. of Baja.
strenuous for the old priest and he died In the early 1700's Padre Piccolo The exterior of the church is in good
when he reached Guadalajara. But Father received petitions from the Indians of condition but some of the rooms have
Tamaral did not sit idle. He opened trails Kadda-Kaamen for a missionary. He sent been burned out from campfires, and
from Comandu and Mulege to Purisima. In Padre Loyando and by 1728, Easter services cattle are herded through the church yard.
Purisima he planted grain and citrus and were celebrated in the new church. Crops Mass is said from time to time in the chapel
began building a church. At one point his were planted and sheep and cattle were by priests passing through the area.
congregation numbered over 2,000. All introduced. But four hard years of labor
that remains is a profusion of palm trees, broke Loyando's health and he was forced A FINAL STOP
some adobe walls, an above ground to retire. Padres Sestiaga, Taravel and The churches of Rosario Arriba and
sarcophagi and a despondent village. Consag. Rosario Abajo were founded in 1774 by the
Dominicans. All that remains is an adobe
SAN IGNACIO The MISSION of arch and a corner niche. The original bells,
dated 1738 and 1706, have been transferred
de KAADEKAMEN SANBORJA " to the new chapel's bell tower.
Tired, dusty travellers may sometimes Twenty-two miles of tortuous dirt road Baja is a step back in time. Customs have
discover there is no water at the El will take you to San Francisco de Borja not changed. On still evenings you can
Presidente, but the management will Adac, through the Boojum tree forest. A hear the tinkle of goat bells in the
assure you that all will be wet as soon as distant relative of the ocotillo, also known mountains. Mules or burros still turn the
the pumps are running. Pretty soon there as cirio, this is the only place in the world wheel which grinds the juice from the
will be a trickle of cold water and the wiser to which this plant is native. sugar cane. The stars shine down on you
ones will grab a shower. You'll be told In 1759 an Austrian, Padre Wenceslao with the same intensity as they did upon
there will be hot water in a couple of hours Linck, founded the San Borja Mission. In the padres. Standing alone in the empty
but the pumps may burn out and once his time he converted over 1,500 Indians mission, you feel that 300 years have
again, there will be no water. and built a mission house and a hospital. accomplished little and that is good. It is El
A dip in the pool, margaritas, and a Linck named the church after Maria Borja, Otro Mexico. You go home refreshed.^]
THE LOST
TREASURE OF
TUMACACORI
by Choral Pepper

O ne of the more persistent legends


to attract fortune seekers has
been the tale of the Tumacacori
Mission treasure in southeastern Arizona.
The most commonly accepted version of
the story places a vast treasure within the
walls of a Tumacacori mission, the treasure
being abandoned by the Jesuit
missionaries when a Spanish king thought
they were garnering riches for themselves
and expelled the order from New Spain.
To reinforce the legend, there were two
Tumacacori missions, and possibly a third
that truly is lost. One is now a national
monument, San Jose de Tumacacori, with
pockmarked grounds bearing mute
witness to constant attack by treasure
seekers. The other is less well known,
Tumacacori de San Cayetano, a structure
which has deteriorated into a few barely
noticeable humps of adobe. The third is so
lost that it bears no special identification.
There have been at least as many people country, the priest was unable to locate the
searching for the lost treasure of the I m / he evidence first came to light in landmarks described in the document.
Tumacacori Mission as there have been / the spring of 1889 with the arrival Could Judge Barnes recommend someone
prospectors futilely chasing a rainbow to _/. in Tucson of a priest from Spain. who was familiar with the area and who
the elusive Lost Dutchman Mine in He rode into town on horseback and would be willing to act as a guide?
Arizona's Superstition Mountains. Yet immediately asked for directions to the Judge Barnes smelled treasure. The
recently discovered evidence indicates that court house. legend of the Tumacacori Mission treasure
the treasure of the Tumacacori Mission may When he was introduced to Judge Bill had been floating around Arizona for a
be "mission impossible." While the lost Barnes there, he explained in English that long time. The Judge hastened to assure
mission remains lost, evidence of treasure his superiors in a monastery in Spain had the good man of the cloth that he did
actually exists. A cache with a reported sent him to Tucson to retrieve a chest that indeed know of such a person. Himself.
value of more than $45 million is hidden in "contained some old church records." The stories of the relationship between
the shafts of a series of separate old mines These records had been buried the opportunistic judge, his friends, and
in the Tumacacori Mountains. Even more somewhere in the Tumacacori Mountains the mysterious priest, vary. The one told by
exciting, the new evidence indicates that during an Indian insurrection that took Judge Barnes until the day he died
the discovery of any one of of the old place when the Spanish were settling this contends that in spite of their better
mines will set off a chain reaction by part of the New World. judgement, he and some unidentified
providing a waybill to each of the others, The stranger carried with him a rancher friends accompanied the priest
for they are linked together in the words of document titled the Derrotero de into the Tumacacori range. Legend always
an old Spanish document, called a Tumacacori that described where the had placed the Tumacacori treasure in the
derrotero. chest was buried. Being unfamiliar with the Coronado range east of the Santa Cruz
River, near the ruins of the Tumacacori Tumacacori mission history as it had been present Tumacacori Mission, accompanied
Mission. The Arizonians were perplexed legitimately recorded. by a documentary television crew and the
when the priest insisted upon focusing his For example, the translations began by manufacturer of a leading electronic metal
search west of the river, into the unfriendly stating that between the years 1548 and detector. More than $10,000 was spent in
Tumacacori mountain range. 1648 a mine called the Virgin of Guadalupe triple-triangulated aerial surveys, helium
Consequently, they were not surprised belonged to the Tumacacori. Curiously, balloons and sophisticated electronic
that he recovered nothing more valuable however, the earliest known Tumacacori gadgets for detecting metal both from the
than the old chest of papers that he mission, Tumacacori de San Cayetano, was air and on the ground.
purportedly sought. Before disbanding, the not established until 1698, while the This search, as so many before it, was
ranchers concluded that the priest did, present San Jose de Tumacacori, now a inspired by a copy of one of the derroteros
indeed, appear to be solely interested in national monument, was not completed derived from Judge Barnes' translations.
old church records. They'immediately lost until the early 1800s. Such copies are not hard to come by. Each
interest. Furthermore, Padre Eusebio Kino, the of the three original translators made
All, that is, except the canny judge. He Jesuit priest credited with founding the copies for himself which his heirs
had glanced at the derrotero earlier in his first mission in Arizona, did not even arrive re-copied and passed on to their heirs. A
office. Although the language of the there until a half-century after the number of them have been published over
document was an archaic Spanish that he Tumacacori treasure had been concealed, the years, and no two are exactly alike.
Members of the 1974 syndicate are still
silent about the details of their adventure,
but it is known that they found no treasure.
And no wonder. Like so many before them,
they searched in the wrong place!

"W" t was a California school teacher


I named Michael Ford who produced
JL the clue that convinced me that the
Tumacacori treasure, and the derrotero that
leads to it, is not a fraud.
Ford had taken a sabbatical to research
early Spanish mission records in Arizona.
During advance work in California, he had
run across a copy of a translation of the
Derrotero de Tumacacori that someone
had left between the pages of an historical
book long out of print. Judging from its
precise script and faded ink, Ford guessed
it to be relatively old.
Upon studying it, he was disappointed to
find that although its title contained the
word "Tumacacori," it had nothing to do
with the old mission. Nevertheless, he
shoved the loose pages into his briefcase
and later put them in his file at home.
There they remained, forgotten, until he
happened to read a story in Desert
Magazine about the fabled Tumacacori
Mission treasure. Since his route form Los
Angeles to Tucson passed through Palm
Desert, he decided to stop by my office to
set me straight. At that time, I was editor of
the magazine.
As a serious historian, he scoffed at the
could not translate, he had a hunch that according to the dates of the derrotero. notion that Jesuits had left any mission
there was more to it than directions to a It is not strange that Judge Barnes' treasure at Tumacacori. To emphasize his
single chest. translators identified the Tumacacori point, he produced the translated version
Before departing Tucson, the priest treasure described in the derrotero with of the derrotero that he had found and
shuffled through the records in the chest to the Tumacacori mission, however. By explained that the discrepanq' between its
satisfy himself that they fulfilled his inserting the word "mission" after the dates and the actual date that the Jesuits
assigned mission. He then presented the word "Tumacacori" they simply were founded the first mission in Arizona made
derrotero to the judge as a souvenier. He lending credibility to their translations. the treasure legend impossible.
never was heard of again. After all, everyone in Tucson was familiar Although his theory made sense, I
Such was not the case of the derrotero. with Tumacacori mission ruins rotting argued that the word "Tumacacori"
away on the outskirts of the city. Published originated with the Indians, rather than
T T 7 " 7 " i t h i n a few days the Judge found historical data that might have alerted them with the Spanish missionaries. Long before
\ \ / three educated Mexicans of pure to the incongruity of the dates was not the Spanish had arrived in Arizona, it had
W Spanish ancestry who agreed to commonly available in those days. been the name of both an Indian village
attempt translation of the archaic Spanish In spite of this obvious inconsistency, and a mountain range. The Spanish had
document. Working separately, each came treasure hunters today are still conducting adopted it for the mission because Indians
up with a different version. The only things expeditions into the rugged terrain east of from the Tumacacori village attended the
the translations had in common was that the Santa Cruz. In 1974, for example, a mission.
they contained instructions for finding a syndicate led by two major shareholders I also was aware of the Judge Barnes'
series of vast treasures, and each one from Idaho launched a sophisticated account of how the derrotero was
quoted dates incompatible with treasure hunt almost within sight of the introduced to Tucson, and that a number of
of ii bad been published, however, he had shed his dreams of time the rferrnrprn WAS> innstated in
These facts, previously unknown to plunder. All he desired now was to be The Conception is host to from three to
Ford, piqued his interest. He promised to welcomed as a friend. five cartloads of virgin silver in slabs.
look up the other versions of the derrotero In his journal he described attending his More slabs of silver are stored in the San
when he arrived in Tucson, and see how first mass at Tumacacori de Cerritas, a Pedro mine located one league from the
they compared with his own. church near the mine. There he was Guadalupe mine.
Hardly a week had passed before I heard absolved of his sins and assured by the The sixth mine, San Isabel, lies one
from him. The primary difference between priest that his miraculous survival league from the San Pedro, but the
his version and the others was that they indicated that it was God's will that he be derrotero neglects to give an inventory as
referred to Tumacacori as a mission and his spared. to what is stashed in it.
referred to it as a mine. This struck him as This is the earliest mention of a church Some of these mines doubtlessly have
important. Theoretically, it provided an located at, and named for, the Tumacacori been found, but the great treasures in the
explanation for the inconsistency in dates. mountain range. Its priest would have Guadalupe and Tumacacori remain
The mines were there before the missions. been a Franciscan, not a Jesuit, and the unclaimed. That is, unless the church
Treasure hunters of the past had made church was a chapel rather than a mission. records gathered by the priest from Spain
their mistakes by attempting to follow This convinced me that Ford was right, that were the treasure maps of the Tumacacori.
directions stated in the derroteros, using the Tumacacori in the derrotero was a mine
one of the two known Jesuit Tumacacori located in the Tumacacori Mountains and TT" n 1874 an engineer named Hiram
missions as a starting point. This obviously that the Franciscan chapel adjacent to the m C. Hodge came out to Arizona
had been the wrong approach. The mine gave birth to the legend of the j £ Territory to make a study of
missions, named for the Tumacacori Tumacacori treasure that was passed on by Tucson's early mining and mission history.
Indians lay in the Coronado range. The Indian slaves. The Spanish traditionally In writing of a mine 75 miles southwest of
treasure lies in the Tumacacori range. instilled fear in their slaves of ever Tucson, he described another one six miles
The more Ford labored over the betraying the storage places of "God's south of it that he simply called "Old
confusing document, the more convinced gold." Mine." He believed it to have been worked
he became that it was a preliminary* long before Jesuit fathers arrived.
word-by-word translation, made before its W 7 ord's derrotero describes six A few miles south of it were the historic
amateur translator had begun to embellish r~4 mines, giving the distances in Plachas de Plata mines of Sonora, Mexico,
the document with interpretations of his J. Spanish varas and leagues of one with their solid planks of pure silver. And
own. If that were true, it could be more from the other. It also gives geological onward into the Oro Blanco range that
accurate than the others. descriptions which are clues. For example, winds across the high mesa to the
Meanwhile, I started some research of the silver of a mine called the Opeta is southwest of Arivaca on the Arizona side of
my own. This produced evidence that described as being in a lime contact which the border, Hodge described the old
Spanish conquistadores were in Arizona as eventually cuts into pure silver. Austerlitz mine. It was here in 1870 that
early as 1590, a date that fell well within the This could be an area in the Tumacacori miners found indications of much earlier
derrotero's account of mines worked Mountains about fifteen miles west of work, including drill holes of an archaic
between 1548 and 1648. Moreover, while Nogales where the caliche is a lime contact type four inches square along with
those early Spanish colonizers were that hosts silver. It is shown on modern primitive tools, human skeletons, and two
exploiting the wealth of the land with maps as an extension of the Pajarito rawhide bags filled with silver ore that
Indian slave labor, they were supporting a Mountains of the Atasa range. Here, in a assayed to $4,000 per ton. These are all in
small number of friars of the Franciscan caliche outcrop in a pass between the the area of the Tumacacori range.
order to administer to their religious Pajaritos and El Ruido is a likely place to It is believed that even if the priest did
needs. start looking for the Opeta Mine described retrieve the treasure maps, an expedition
The most exciting revelation arose when in the derrotero. from Spain carrying enough equipment to
I came across a partially translated memoir Once that one is found, or any of the exploit the area would not have passed
of a Spanish soldier named Ramon others for that matter, the derrotero gives unnoticed. If not all, at least some of the
Martinez that appeared in an old historical directions from each mine to the others. Tumacacori treasure must still await a
journal. They will not be found easily, however. finder astute enough to disassociate the
Here is the story: There are no roads, only blind trails that legend from the mission. 0
Having started north with D. Juan de wind through a confused mass of rocky
Ornate's army of 800 men in 1596, crags, peaks and flat-topped bluffs with
Martinez became entranced one night with vertical sides and steep dykes. Gold and
an old soldier's campfire story. The veteran silver veins are numerous, with placer gold
warrior claimed to have guarded a supply collected in canyons, but it is hard to find it
train that was taken up the west coast of under the tangled covering of oak, juniper
Mexico some years earlier to a rich mine and manzanita.
worked illegally by a company of One league north of the Opeta,
Spaniards. A born opportunist, Martinez according to the derrotero, is the
quickly realized that any plunder he might Tumacacori mine. In it likes a key to all of
come upon with Ornate's army would have the others, for this mine, marked by the
to be divided some 800 times. It would be letters "PSR; and dated the 8th day of
more rewarding, he figured, to persuade February, 1548, contains a covered box. In
several comrades to steal away from the one corner of the box is a screw. You take
army and join him at a rendezvous they out the screw and there is an iron bar. Pull
had passed earlier on their trail. They then out the bar and open the box. In it are all
could work their way westward into what the maps of the great treasures of
now is Arizona, overcome the mine Tumacacori!
owners described by the old soldier, and Each a league-and-a-half in opposite
claim their riches for themselves. directions form the Opeta, lie two mines
After much hardship at the hands of called the Virgin of Guadalupe and the
Indians, only Martinez lived to reach the Pure Conception. Guadalupe holds 2,050
green valley fringed by foothills that the bars of stamped silver and others of gold, ARIZONA
MEXFCO
old soldier had described. By this time, amounting to a value of $45,000,000 at the
ATTAINT 1QRn
NEW PRODUCTS

THE FISCHER SUN COOKER


As Americans increasingly take a more becomes common, as it well could are built by hand, the wooden parts by a
serious look at solar alternatives to provide if the three-martini lunch types at the rehabilitation organization at the Palo Alto
our energy needs, the well-designed Department of Energy in Washington ever (Calif.) Veterans Administration hospital.
Fischer Sun Cooker wins mention in this hear about it and make it mandatory. You'll Mr. and Mrs. Fischer assemble and
first of what will be a continuing series on have to eat all your hot meals during the paint the unit which takes them about
meritorious new products of interest and day and do without when it's cloudy. four hours.
use to Desert readers. But it has its advantages. There's no fire Although the Fischers tried some
Solar cooking is both new and old. hazard even in a dry forest, there's no experimenting with do-it-yourself kits,
Undoubtedly more than one caveperson smoke from fuel which, incidentally, is assembled units are all that are available at
inadvertently left a dinosaur egg or two out free, and you don't have to cut wood, lug the present time. Future plans, however,
in the sun on a summer day and returned charcoal or argue with your local utility. include selling plans and just those parts
to find it baked. And Baja buffs commonly We think it's neat that Fischer Cookers that don't lend themselves to home
fry chicken eggs on the hoods of their manufacture.
Jeeps. However, these accidents and The Fischer Cooker may be ordered
expedients never seriously threatened directly from Guy Fischer, 302 Center St.,
Ronald Reagan's former job with Redwood City, CA 94061. Please tell him
General Electric. you read about it in Desert Magazine. Good
What's new about the Fischer Sun cooking, but don't blame us if the roast
Cooker — invented, manufactured, burns or the potatoes explode your first
packaged and shipped by Guy Fischer from time out. It's pot luck!
his garage in Redwood City, California — is
that it's the first, as far as we know, to Attention Manufacturers and
combine a parabolic concentrator and a Marketers: Desert Magazine will be glad
self-contained oven. to evaluate your product for inclusion
The $77 (at this writing), 17-pound in this column. The only rules are that it
cooker consists of a four square foot be new, commercially available and of
parabolic collector and a 440 cubic inch specific interest to our readers. For
(same displacement as Chrysler's biggest details, write New Products Editor,
engine) oven with a transparent plastic Desert Magazine, P.O. Box 1318,
bottom to allow the reflected rays to enter. Palm Desert, CA 92261. No phone
The whole cooker folds flat with its four calls, please. fj\
wooden legs for storage and carrying.
On a 70 degree day, the cooker is
claimed to be as efficient as a conventional
gas range. Temperature of from 100 to 500
degrees inside the oven can be regulated
by focusing the sun's rays slightly off
center. Don't, however, expect automatic
control. You'll need a thermometer to
either hang in the oven or to stick in
the food.
The commonly available absorption or
"heat storage" ovens can reach 250
degrees easily and up to 400 degrees
under ideal conditions but it usually
takes about an hour to reach cooking
temperature and every time you open this
type of oven to worry or stir or add or
remove the food, you lose much of the
heat you've stored.
Reflective ovens, also available from
other sources, reach cooking temperatures
quite quickly and you can fiddle with the
food as much as you want without losing
significant heat. The Fischer Cooker
combines both the heat storage and
reflective principles for peak efficiency.
Solar cooking of any kind obviously will
change the nation's eating habits if it
DESERT 15
Red Rattlesnake
16 AUGUST, 1980
SORTING
RATTLESNAKE
FACT FROM
RATTLESNAKE anc
* Photographs
by KAREN SACISMAN
It's early morning and you've been out for a molecules out of the air and carry them to
a special sensory cell in the roof of the
hike. Temperatures are starting to warm as snake's mouth called the Jacobson's organ.
This organ allows the snake to obtain a
you climb through the rocks to get a closer "taste-smell" of whatever other creatures
may be near it and so the snake, which has
look at a crimson flower on a beavertail relatively poor eyesight, can more
completely identify any animals including
cactus. Just a few more feet and you'll be man which may come into his
environment. Therefore, the rapid action
there, ready to photograph. Suddenly the of a tongue flicking in and out of the mouth
of an upset snake is simply the snake's
morning quiet is fractured by the alarming, attempt to ascertain just what kind of
creature it is out there.
unmistakable sound of the vibrating tail of a
rattlesnake. A second of initial panic but you Commonly we
control it, freeze, and look slowly around hear people who feel you should never get
anywhere near a rattlesnake because they
trying to discover the location of the angry are very fast and can move with lightning
serpent. There he lays, coiled, about four There are over speed towards a person, and strike from
feet away and just to your right. He looks to eighteen species and subspecies of great distances. First, any species of snake
be about three feet long and is brick-red rattlesnakes in the southwestern deserts and particularly the relatively heavy-
color with white diamond patterns — a red and in addition to them, there are other bodied, sluggish rattlesnakes moves much
rattlesnake, Crotalus ruber. But what to do venomous reptiles such as coral snakes more slowly even at top speed than a
next? The snake appears to be staring at and two species of venomous lizards, gila person can run or even trot. Secondly, a
you, his tongue quickly flicking in and out, monsters and beaded lizards. But it is the snake can only strike from one-half to
head raised about eight inches above the rattlesnake that desert travelers seem to one-third of its total body length.
coils of his body. The rattling, vibrating tail fear the most. And with good reason, since Therefore, unless it is striking downhill
begins to slow since you are less a large rattlesnake can inflict a serious and where the momentum of its action might
threatening now that you've stopped occasionally, even deadly bite. carry it forward, a three-foot snake cannot
moving, but what now? Will he attack? Fear, in turn, breeds stories and legends, usually reach out much further than a foot
What's that menacing tongue doing? And if but just what is fact and what is fiction? Let's and a half away. To be safe you should stay
he attacks, will you survive? separate these by looking at some common a full body-length away, or three feet, from
The person in this story was me. What myths about rattlesnakes: a three-foot long rattlesnake, or to be
did I do? I turned slowly and moved doubly safe, stay twice as many feet away as
another step closer to the snake, an action the snake is long.
which set his tail vibrating again but One of the most
enabled me to get a better photograph, of often heard comments is that the forked,
him now and not the flower. I did not feel quick-moving tongue of a snake will sting Another myth is
any particular concern for my safety and if I you or somehow poison you. This is not that rattlesnakes are aggressive and will
tell you why, you may be able to better true. The snake's tongue is a highly attack in an attempt to kill or eat you.
evaluate your encounters with rattlesnakes. sensitive organ and is used to gather Snakes like most wild creatures are not
. - \ \ :

Western Pacific Rattlesnake


Speckled Rattlesnake
naturally aggressive to man and are willing from the harmless species that live in our you are wed out of striking r<mge, say more
to retreat if given a chance. If you force a southwestern deserts? than five feet away from a three-foot long
snake into a position from which it cannot One might think the simplest way would snake, you can relax and just move slowly
withdraw, it may well defend itself. be to look for the rattle. If the snake has a out of reach. However, if you find yourself
Occasionally snakes have been known to rattle, it's a rattlesnake and therefore within a foot or so, it would be best to stay
move towards a person but actually, they dangerous. However, it is possible that the immobile as any quick action by you may
are headed for a rock crevice or burrow rattles may have been lost and so you trigger a defensive reaction from the snake.
where they feel they would be secure. And should not base your identification solely Usually the snake will start to back away if
certainly, rattlesnakes are not interested in on whether or not the snake has rattles. you stay still long enough.
attacking human beings for food. Snakes There are several other physical The chances of actually being bitten by a
(all snakes) swallow their prey whole and characteristics that help to identify rattlesnake while hiking are very, very
so there is no reason for a rattlesnake to rattlesnakes. One is that those native to the slight. Actually, most snake-bite victims in
waste its time or energy attacking a human southwest are generally heavy-bodied the southwest are individuals who either
being for food when it could not snakes. They often have a sharp ridge were bitten by their "pet" rattlesnakes or
conceivably consume something as large called a "keel' running down the center of who were attempting to handle or catch
as a person. But how does the snake know? each scale which gives the snake a very rattlesnakes. But still, there is the
Again, its tongue is the key. The tongue, rough, scaly appearance. possibility.
and a heat-receptive pad underneath each An immediate identification is the size The bite of a southwestern rattlesnake
eye of all members of the rattlesnake relationship between the back of the head will result in gross swelling around the
family, help the snake discern what the and the neck. The head of a rattlesnake is bitten area and a great deal of pain as the
animal is and how large it is so when they venom begins to break down body tissues.
are hunting for food, they only attempt to (LEFT) MOST Prompt medical attention is necessary to
take animals which are small enough for NON-VENOMOUS $%k keep tissue damage to a minimum. The

Ii
them to consume. It's the same process, in SOUTHWESTERN a\ ] \ victim should try to remain as calm as
fact, that keeps the giant pythons of Africa SNAKES W\% possible and not undertake any physical
from attempting to consume an elephant. exertion unless absolutely necessary. A
(RIGHT) IOTI tourniquet between the bite and the heart
RATTLESNAKE yXtifr
Frequently one BROAD HEAD,
NARROW NECK
| P I can be used but should not be so tight as to
cut off circulation to and from the arteries,
hears of "old-timers" who camp out in the and it should be loosened every few
desert and are not worried about very broad near the back of the jaws minutes. The victim should always be taken
rattlesnakes because they surround because the venom glands are located to a hospital as quickly as possible to
themselves with a horsehair lariat or even there. The broad head is attached directly receive proper medical treatment.
occasionally with some branches of cholla, to a very thin neck as is shown in the It is a good idea, if it can be done
believing themselves to be safe from the accompanying illustration. The heads of without unnecessary delay or risk, to kill
potential visits of the neighboring non-poisonous snakes in the southwest are the rattlesnake and bring it with the victim
rattlesnakes because the snakes would not about the same circumference as to the hospital so that proper identification
want to crawl over the rope or through the their necks. of type of snake and thus, type of treatment,
cholla. While the cholla may be a mild Differences noted so far between can be made. However, the venom of the
deterrent to a rattlesnake, the lariat would rattlesnakes and non-poisonous species various species of southwestern
be no deterrent at all since the heavy thick are only valid when comparing snakes rattlesnakes is somewhat similar and,
scales on all snakes' bodies are impervious native to the southwestern deserts of the therefore, so is the treatment. Be careful
to the rough prickly edges of the rope. United States. As one travels into Central when handling the recently dispatched
and South America and even Mexico, there snake as the venom is still toxic.
are many species of snakes with very There are many commercial snake-bite
Still another slender bodies and with shiny scales. kits available which have suction cups that
are supposed to help draw out the venom
fallacy often repeated about rattlesnakes is
and scalpels to make incisions above the
that there is one rattle on their tails for
each year of age. This is simply not a fact. A It is relatively wound to "drain" the venom out. My
rattlesnake acquires a new rattle every timeeasy for the hiker to avoid encounters with personal opinion which is backed by
he sheds his skin. A young, healthy and rattlesnakes. First of all, confine your physicians is that the use of these kits in the
growing snake may shed two or three walking to open areas where visibility is field can lead to more damage and trauma
times a year and thus acquires up to three good. The best defense against a snake is than their potential value. A rattlesnake bite
rattles within a year. At the same time, theseeing it before it senses you. Don't climb is very serious but unless the bitten
rattles are occasionally knocked or broken through rocks and boulders where you individual is a very small child or an
off as the snake crawls through rocks and cannot see where you will be putting your elderly person, there should be ample
bushes. There is no way to correllate the hands and feet, especially during the early time to go to proper medical facilities for
age of the snake with the number of rattles morning and late afternoon in the warm treatment. Administering anti-venene is
on the end of its tail. months of the year when snakes are more often dangerous in that the bitten person
active. Save your rock climbing for the may have an allergic reaction to the horse
winter months when all species of snakes serum which is the base of most
My purpose has and other reptiles are deep underground anti-venenes. Again I stress the use of the
been to quell or at least ease some of your in hibernation. Don't put your hands or light tourniquet and keeping the victim
fear of rattlesnakes. Still, they are fingers under rocks or boards to turn them calm as perhaps the best field treatment for
venomous, potentially dangerous animals over or pick them up, as snakes habitually snake bite.
and must be treated with respect. There seek this type of shelter.
are many species of non-poisonous native Use rakes and long-handled shovels to
snakes, however, which are highly clean up brush and again, don't pick up the The best defense
beneficial and should be allowed to coexist brush with your hands because it is usually of all against a rattlesnake bite, of course, is
peacefully around homes and gardens in such brush that snakes will retreat to being cautious when you are out hiking
since they eat and therefore control escape the heat of the summer day. If you and learning to identify the poisonous
rodents which can quickly become pests. do hear a rattlesnake, stand very still until from the non-poisonous snakes that you
But how can you identify the rattlesnake vou know the exact location of the snake. If might encounter. 0
DESERT 19
The Artistand the Man

WILLIAM HENRY
J ACKSON

by Marian Clover

The year was 1866 and all traffic moving west moved in covered
wagons and every ox was a bull.
"In all the language there is no word that so exactly expresses a
meaning," said William Henry Jackson, bullwhacker.
The job was sixteen hours, seven days, beginning with a predawn
holler when 330 ornery oxen were loosed inside the circle of wagons
and each bullwhacker hunted down his team of twelve. Jackson wrote
home:
"Some other steer, having a grudge against the one you are gently
urging up to the wagon wheel to fasten, gives him a punch in the ribs
with his horns and sends him kiting into the herd again. You hang on
manfully and are snaked around right smart, and you have to jump on
some of their backs to escape being squeezed to a jelly."
When they started, bullwhacker and bulls were equal. Jackson had
never held a wooden bow in his hands and his bulls had never been
yoked. It took the greenhorn eight hours to line up his team. After a few
weeks he had it down to 35 minutes.
His only ease was a few minutes sketching around the campfire at
night. He could never remember a time he didn't draw. Back in New
York he'd painted lush green landscapes with gentled hills. Here on the
trail he drew the wild-eyed bulls, wagons with their faded canvas, and the
flatland that stretched ahead interminably.
When the sand stuck in his teeth and the dust got thick enough to chew
he looked at the rusty wagon wheels and buffalo shoulder blades with
hasty scrawled epitaphs aside the trail. He reminded himself he was
lucky to be alive.
Though cholera didn't hit Jackson's wagon train, scurvy did. His gums

Photographs of Artwork Courtesy THE HAROLD WARP PIONEER VILLAGE ofMinden, Nebraska.
20 AUGUST, 1980
W. H.JACKSON AT SALT LAKE - 1866
DESERT'* 2 1
Jackson traveled with the Hayden Geological
Survey, each summer sketching and photographing
land north and south of the Overland Trail.

PONY RIDER IN BLEAK WINTER STORM


softened, his chapped lips bled. The wagon of freezing rain and snow, the haul through "White House," the Tithing Office, the
train carried no medicine, but he got ahold Silver Creek Canyon became Jackson's printing house which published Deseret
of some horses' oats and boiled the stuff worst ordeal. News, and the government offices, schools
for flapjacks. The mud was frozen under two inches of and workshops.
His mouth cured, he thought he might snow, and hoofs and heels and wheels Jackson bathed at Hot Sulpher Springs
live. turned it to mush up to the hubs. When a and visited the Tabernacle and Temple,
There was plenty of time to look around wagon bogged down, they were forced to both far from finished.
on the trail. After a stint in the Civil War as yoke 24, sometimes 36 bulls. Once he was rested up, the land of per-
staff artist for the Union, drawing land- Driving snow stung Jackson's face, petual summer beckoned and there was
scapes, fortifications and maps, his eye was coated his eyelashes, and turned the teams nothing for it but to head for California.
trained for western scenes of vast distance. into snorting white phantoms. His boots West of the mountains, wagons were empty
When his fiancee dissolved their en- had been used up and by noon his mocca- and pulled by compliant mules, animals
gagement, the only thing left was to cut all sins were cut to shreds on the crusty snow. that were quite docile compared to bulls.
ties and go west. Where else? West was When they finally made camp it wasn't Jackson got a job with a trail-gang
where the gold and adventure waited. He the end of it — the men drove the bulls headed through the desert. The trail was so
answered an ad: three miles to the bottom of a hill for shel- visible he got up early, walked ahead of the
ter. When Jackson finally legged it back to wagon-train, sketched till mid-afternoon,
100 TEAMSTERS WANTED. PAY
camp he had no sensation in his bare feet. and then caught up with the crew. By the
20 DOLLARS A MONTH AND FOUND
No pain. time he arrived in Los Angeles he had a
"Found" was a flop on top of a packing The fire was out. He gulped cold coffee, sizeable portfolio of the trip through Utah,
box in the wagon and grub of bread, bacon swallowed some greasy bacon, and Arizona, Nevada and Southern California.
and coffee. Charged against the pay was a crawled under his blanket. The train made one stop in central Utah
pair of blankets, carpetbag, a Colt .44 and a The lack of fire saved his feet. If he had to celebrate New Year's Eve at a "bull
white rubber coat. been able to thaw the frostbite, he would dance" — without a musical instrument —
The grimy bullwhacker who egged his have lost them. Next morning his feet were and a few weeks later Jackson crossed a
team on for fourteen miles every day be- so swollen he couldn't move. narrow log footbridge into Los Angeles.
came tough as a bullet. The pale, polite A few days later he hobbled into Salt The town of 5,000 people had orange
artist in a stovepipe hat with soft hands was Lake City, healed enough to enjoy the fresh and lime trees lining the streets. The vil-
replaced by a teamster who learned to peaches and white houses that greeted lage was Spanish in style but Yankee-sharp
goad, push and cuss his animals while them. The journey that toughened him re- in trade.
dodging the backlash from the other whips duced his one suit of clothes to rags. His He sold his rifle at a 40 percent loss.
in the train of 25 wagons. trousers were so thin he wore two pair "to Jackson took lodgings at a stage station,
In cloudbursts Jackson learned a wet avoid arrest for indecent exposure." The ' where his talent served him again as staff
man can get wetter. And when there was no heels on his boots were worn off, "and my artist. Each visitor from the north brought
water for 28 miles they drove the bulls all hat was recognizable as a head covering discouraging reports of mining, and his
night long, knowing oxen would stampede only when I had it on." gold fever petered out. The orderly green
a mile for water,dragging a wagon behind He found work with some Mormons and of the east became more tempting.
them. paid for his keep by sketching the family. The way back meant a job driving bron-
In mid-October they closed in on Salt He walked around "Brigham's Wall," cos and mustangs descended from fiery
Lake City. It was winter, and after two days where sentries guarded the Mormon Spanish stock.
22 AUGUST, 1980
At age 95 Jackson painted forty watercolors
and four oil murals for the Department
of Interior in Washington, D.C.

"BIG MEDICINE ROAD" THROUGH INDIAN COUNTRY


"Half the herd of 200 had never been migration and he had time to sketch the lowstone as a national park.
broken and the rest could be counted on half million he estimated were thundering Jackson never stopped sketching. There
to shy, buck or get into a frenzy." past. The staple of the Indians was becom- were details no camera could catch,
Sullen bulls seemed placid now. A man ing important to the white man. Buffalo Bill perspectives no film could interpret,
could make a 300 percent profit, if he sur- Cody worked for eighteen months supply- shades of color no black and white prints
vived. Jackson only wanted transportation ing railroad construction crews with ten, could convey.
in the right direction, and he convinced the twelve buffalo a day. He was delighted with color film when
trailboss he could snag broncs, lasso, and All along the route Jackson saw scaven- he first tried it in 1939.
brand with the best of them. gers roaming the land, picking up buffalo "If I were beginning over I'd do every-
Hired on, he found himself following bones to sell for fertilizer and buttons. thing in color," he said.
the same route he'd taken west. It was an Trail's end came at Omaha, after an At age 95 he painted forty watercolors
eventful trip with little time for sketching. overnight rail trip with men and animals and four oil murals for the Department of
Once the boys managed to lose all the jammed into boxcars. Jackson was paid off. Interior in Washington, DC. Today his
stock. Stampedes were frequent. Horses After weeks of aching muscles, freezing the works hang in industrial suites and
had to be thrown and shod, daily. One day sweat on his back, getting kicked, jabbed, museums. He lived to be 99, painting to the
Jackson pulled a driver's aching molar with yanked and driven as hard as the horses, he end — long enough to congratulate the
a rusty bullet mold for his forceps. had earned enough money to buy a new Boy Scout at the end of the line on the 75th
Wagons they met along the trail shied suit and a shave. Anniversary of the first Pony Express Ride.
from joining 200 horses, six men and one Though Jackson spent his summers He had sketched the original riders and
woman. Keeping the mounts together was roaming the west, he was through with their mounts!
hard. They were plagued by clouds of bulls. The only horses he would handle There's a story illustrating his
mosquitoes, sometimes covering the ani- would be the ones he rode. He lined up a philosophy of life and art. He and a friend
mals so completely their color couldn't job as a photographic retoucher at $25 per decided to climb a mountain, one of the
be seen. week — exactly what he'd earned back east toughest climbs in North America.
When they picked up two new men, the before his year of hard labor on the trail. They went up to the top and came down.
stock ran off and one of the new hands He established a portrait business of his "That to my mind is the way to climb a
found them. Jackson suspected they'd own, leaving his studio to photograph and mountain," Jackson said. "Sometimes there
taken on two rustlers, but as he'd learned sketch the great Indian chiefs. He traveled is an awful lot of nonsense about it."
going out on the trail, unfriendly country with the Hayden Geological Survey, each His no-nonsense attitude served him
was no place to be shorthanded. summer sketching and photographing land well. He left behind hundreds of paintings
At the Continental Divide they passed north and south of the Overland Trail, and drawings that capture the Old West
two stage stations burnt to the ground. often recrossing familiar paths. with superb insight, empathy and accuracy
Grave mounds increased. All wagon trains At first his studio was a horse and buggy — just the way it used to be. ¥J\
were placed under military protection. outfitted with a sink, water key, tripod, and
But if tempers were short and the horses enough glass for 400 plates. Later his dark-
hotheaded, Jackson's outfit was safe from room became more portable when he (Ed. Note: Author Clover expresses indebt-
Indians. He thought it was because they loaded his gear on his pack mule, Hypo. edness for her quotations to 'Time Expo-
didn't look like surveyors — the dread of Jackson's photographs cinched govern- sure," the Autobiography of William Henry
Western tribes. ment support of the surveys and convinced Jackson, Cooper Square Publishers, New
One day they were stopped by a buffalo a skeptical Congress to establish Yel- York, 1970.)
DESERT 23
1

I
/y
I

'II
COAL, COMO
"""CHRISTMAS
A Combo that May

M
ost visitors who travel those 27 miles along
State Route 14, a little southwestish out of
Revive Madrid Santa Fe, or who drive north out of
Albuquerque, are likely to mention back
home their visit in quaint Madrid. And they pronounce
by Dan B. it MAH-dnd, just like references to Old World Spain's
McCarthy capitol in Ernest Hemingway's novels.
Some say the town bears the name of the Francisco
When Perry Como and his de Madrid family, which dates back in the southwest to
song and dance troupe were in de Varga's 1692 re-conquest. Others say, no, it's named
town last year filming a for Spain's largest city.
segment of his televised One early summer's morning B.C. (before Como), I
Christmas Special for 1979, sat alone in MAD-rid's baseball park which was not
Como came through famously collapsing then, but just deteriorating. Trees, trunks
with residents by calling their thicker than saplings, blocked the view from the
rustic, reawakening ghost town grandstand towards the diamond.
"MAD-rid." Emphasis on the Tethered in the outfield, a burro hee-hawed to greet
MAD... a new day or for whatever reason burros like to
That's as it should be in hee-haw. From across town somehwere a dog,
Madrid, New Mexico. sounding like a German shepherd, barked his
authoritative contribution to drown out delightful
(Left) The modest birdsong heard between the brays of the burro.
white-washed homes of The rest of Madrid seemed asleep.
Madrid were lived in by coal Alone with my thoughts I wondered what Madrid
mining families through the was like in its heyday when people bought tickets to sit
mid-1950s. in the grandstand. Later, when Madrid awakened, I
nosed around, asked questions, gathered a notebook
full of answers, and exposed a lot of film.
-
u
z

DESERT 25
T F
his former coal producing
patch of New Mexico caught eelings about mining are mixed,
on as a community in 1882
when the Atlantic and Pacific but most local residents do not
Railroad's gandy dancers
strung a five-mile spur line through the
Ortiz Mountains leading to Waldo, where
wish the quality of life in reborn
some fifty beehive-shaped coke ovens then
operated.
Madrid to decline as a result of mining
Prior to the railroad's arrival, pioneer
Madrid miners had been working the
traffic, blasting and such.
bituminous and anthracite coal fields on a
limited basis since 1869. Historians report Hillside dioramas featured the Nativity Rusting auto hulks, showing lines of
coal taken from the area as early as 1835. scene, Santa Claus and company, and also models current in the late 1930s, were
Madrid's major thrust on the national Mother Goose characters. From the early once parked along a weed-strewn lane
scene covered from 1920 to the late 1940s, 1920s until WWII's energy conservation near the heavy-timbered tipple but they
after a World War II production spurt ended period the exquisite nighttime panorama along with the tipple, as of Spring, 1980
when hostilities ceased overseas. annually focused national attention have disappeared from Madrid's past.
By 1954 Madrid was off the coal market on Madrid. Somebody had need for the lumber, and
and the whole town was on the real estate Fittingly, Walt Disney and several of his the autos were collectable.
market. For Sale! The whole thing! children drove the gravel roads during the "It is a shame," laments Paula Sherman,
A classified advertisement which 1937 Yule season to view the splendor. And "but it is too late for preservation. It is
appeared in the Wall Street Journal read: some 15,000 other carloads of people hoped, as Madrid grows and becomes
added to that year's visitor count. more organized that an effort can be made
ENTIRE TOWN Officials of Trans World Airlines to restore some of the historic buildings."
200 houses, grade and high permitted their pilots to change course Growth talk notwithstanding, Madrid,
school, power house, general slightly and fly over Madrid, allowing whose post office was opened in 1896 and
store, tavern, machine shop, min- passengers glimpses of the extravaganza. discontinued in 1966, has earned its niche
eral rights, 9,000 acres, excellent That was at Christmas! But when Fourth in ghost town books published by the
climate, fine industrial location. of July was nigh, or Easter, or the opening University- of Oklahoma (1974) and the
game of the town's baseball season, University of New Mexico (1967).
Alas for the Albuquerque and Cerrillos townsfolk gathered to festoon their These times, with national talk about a
Coal Company's owners, there were no community. coal industry resurgence to alleviate
takers for the $250,000 asked. energy problems, folks around Madrid

D
Today, says editor Paula Sherman of The uring several visits to Madrid discuss their vast untapped coal reserves.
Rustler, a bi-weekly published out of we preferred to park Overtures are being made by coal interests
nearby Gerrillos,"estimates place 150 to "downtown and just walk the to get the town back into the coal mining
300 persons living in Madrid." town, soaking in the past, business. That stirs controversy, making
One historian gave Madrid the nickname noting today's life, and trying some Madrid residents hot around their
of "Pittsburgh of the West" when 300 tons to imagine "houses aglow with lights." collars.
of coal rolled daily to market as America Here and there among the row houses "Feelings about mining are mixed," says
moved into the 20th Century. Then some on the hillside, reconstruction has made Editor Sherman. "But most local residents
350 families, numbering about 2,000 crumbling structures home again for do not wish the quality of life in reborn
persons, populated the Gaslight Era scene. occupants. But the many untouched homes Madrid to decline as a result of mining
And there were residents who complained show the hard knocks of time and bad traffic, blasting and such."
that their $3 coal bill each month was weather in a ghost town. Community togetherness has evolved
too high! The big, box)' former dance hall has a into a Madrid volunteer fire department, a
Madrid coal helped stoke stoves as far distinct structural sag, but still is standing. water cooperative, and a landowner's
away as Royal Canadian Royal Mounted There's a sign warning visitors to keep out.
Police posts. And, shipments were steady to Nearby, a former church, and then (Right) The plains below the
nearby Los Alamos during "Fat Albert" children's workshop classroom when
atom bomb production. people began wending their way back to Cerillos Hills near Madrid
From Madrid's unruffled, halcyon past, Madrid, is now a private residence, still come alive with summer
former residents and visitors remember charming. The present owner, says Editor bloom.
best, perhaps, the 40,000 Christmas lights Sherman, "prefers her privacy and does
that.showered national acclaim upon the not want people requesting entrance to the
communitv. former church."

26 Al GUST, 1980
!,:##v--
A classified advertisement which
appeared in the Wall Street Journal read:

ENTIRE TOWN
200 houses, grade and high
school, power house, general
store, tavern, machine shop, min-
eral rights, 9,000 acres, excellent
climate, fine industrial location.

* ^p
*

w '•* ": M J * •«m.

'':. $ p<

m:j -

•*• • - 1

28 AUGUST, 1980
DESERT 29
F
ormer residents and visitors
remember the 40,000 Christmas
lights that showered national
acclaim upon the community.
DAVID MUENCH

association. You can buy groceries, Last Christmas season for the first time in (Above) Madrid was a
gasoline and handcrafts at Tuffany's, the 38 years, a huge Christmas tree diorama on
former Pack Rat's Nest. Sam's Hideaway is a a hillside west of Madrid was lighted. "company town" which
leading town restaurant. And Sin Maybe, say residents with keen hopes for accounts for the sameness of
Nombre, Madrid House, and Madrid future Yultides aglow, some of the famous its architecture.
Earthenware Pottery are active businesses. lighting of the past, little by little, may
"The nature of Madrid is changing," the return to the Ortiz Mountains.
Cerrillos editor reports. "The population Amid such speculation, nobody has
mix is starting to become one of heard anyone rebut: "Bah! Humbug!" Who
responsible young families rather than would dare to provoke one of Charles
transient young people." Dickens' characters in a ghost town? K]

30 AUGUST, 1980
&THE NOSIEST NEWSPAPER IN THE WEST-fr
VOL. 1 NO. 6 MARY E. TWYMAN, EDITOR AUGUST 1980

RIVER PROPERTY OWNER REBELS


Needles, Cal\f. — Dale Stout, he would not tolerate a dike treatment. He cites parcels jacent and the fills are even
operating a rented earth mov- across his land; that he felt where the channel and dike with the top of the levee.
ing machine, last month lev- the barrier should be placed are in harmony with land ad- (Cont. on page 32) w
elled the dike which crossed closer to the main channel
property he owns on the Col-
orado River north of Ber-
and the backfill pumped from
the river should be used to BILL SMITH GREETS
muda City. It does happen! A
little guy sometimes becomes
sick and tired of being
level his land and make it
useful.
In the belief Oliver was an
SWALLOWS LAST TIME
Riverside, Calif. - When His answer to the question
pushed around by a bu- honorable man, Stout went the swallows next come back "Have the swallows arrived
reaucracy, and he acts in a on his annual vacation. to Capistrano, as they do yet?", was translated into
way he feels is in his best When he returned and went every year on March 19th, fifty languages and broadcast
interests. across the river to ascertain if they and all the world will no to listeners in as many coun-
Stout is a quiet, unassum- the levee work had been done longer see a dear friend. tries via satellite.
ing gentleman. He does not according to his wishes, he James William (Bill) Smith Bill will be missed. His
associate with those who feel found a condition he now re- won't be there to field tele- knowledge of Mission history
they are powerful, politically. fers to as a mess. Oliver had phone calls from radio and and also, humanity, was vast.
He is a longtime employee of confiscated his property TV stations around the globe — Desert News Service
the Santa Fe Railroad. without due process of law. as he has every St. Joseph's
Long before the Bureau of Oliver, contrary to a verbal Day since 1963. Bill died on
Reclamation had decided to agreement, did not fill in land May 2nd in Riverside at age
rectify one of its many major Stout had intended to use as 67 after a long and coura-
mistakes along the river and a recreational area; instead geous struggle with heart
ordered levee work to contain he had left many barriers to disease.
waters in the event of a one systematic land prep- This year he checked him-
hundred year flood, Stout ac- arations. self out of a hospital to greet
quired riverfront land which Stout now admits it was the birds for what turned out
he felt might be ideal for his difficult for him to talk with to be the last time and then,
retirement years. During the Oliver; once the Bureau's three days later, he rode (on
early 1950s, a river contain- dirty deed was accomplished. horseback) in San J u a n
ment of channel water was He heard all of the bureau- Capistrano's annual Swal-
started with the Bureau in cratic double-talk, usually re- low's Day Parade.
charge. This was instituted served by the Bureau for In- A native of St. Charles,
following a flooding stage dians who "got in the way." Missouri, Bill held a doctor-
that almost inundated the As the years went by he ate in literature and had writ-
town. The flooding was due watched others who had river ten two books on Capistrano,
to an engineering error as- land sell such holdings for The Capistrano Story and
sociated with back-up waters tremendous prices. He be- The Swallows oj
at Parker Dam upstream. came bitter regarding an ob- Capistrano.
In time, (Stout feels it was vious fact; that many who He was best known,
in 1954) the levee work came were socially or civically though, for being the "Voice
to his parcel of land. He al- prominent and owned river of the Mission" who each year
ready had warned Paul Oli- land near his demolished sat in the Parish gymnasium
ver, river levee engineer, that area had received special before a battery of phones. "Voice of the Mission,"

Cactus Clarion 31
River (Cont. from page 31) gional Office in Boulder City, will be impounded for any come in and help themseiv&s
"Such parcels are owned by Vevada. That federal service damages to my private prop- to land owned by a little guy
people who are friendly with is, in fact, the Bureau of Rec- erty. Signed Dale E. Stout." and when the little guy wants
the big man," Stout said. lamation. Roy D. Gear, acting Stout did have a confronta- something in return, all he
Since those early days, and for Regional Director Eugene tion with Robert C. Brose, gets is a kick in the pants?"
with great malice against the Hinds, wrote on April 17: Chief, River Development S t o u t ' s actions have
actions of Oliver and the Bu- 'Dear Mr. Stout: On April 16, Branch for the BuRec. He caused unusual interest in
reau of Reclamation, Stout 1980, you were observed to said he told Brose the story of the Needles area because in-
always kept in mind that the have destroyed a portion of a how his property had been volvement by the Bureau dur-
government had acted in an federal levee about two miles taken without compensation ing the 1950s in questionable
illegal manner. This conclu- above Needles, California, on by the government and also land acquisitions still rankles
sion was predicated upon the the Arizona side of the Color- without any release to the a large number of people. The
following facts as described ado River. government allowing tres- government claims Stout has
by Stout: "Such action is in violation passing and damages that placed private land near his
1. The government did not of Section 1361 of the Crimi- ensued. acreage, and further down-
purchase the needed right- nal Code, 18 U.S.C., and "I don't understand this," river in Bermuda City, in
of-way for the levee across the section 14 of the River and Stout said. "They can pro- grave danger. The govern-
Stout property. Harbor Act of 1889, 33 U.S.C. duce no legal instrument re- ment already has indicated
2. The government at no par. 408. Copies of these garding taking of the land. river water releases will be
time ever offered to rectify statutes are enclosed for your Then they take the attitude record high during the com-
damages the Bureau caused ready reference." that I broke the law because ing months. The implica-
to private property owned by Gear's letter continued, now I have decided to im- tions made were the govern-
Stout. "Under the foregoing laws prove my land. They will have ment could release water
3. The Bureau did not ex- anyone convicted of such to show me how and where I which would overflow banks
plain its actions after Stout conduct is subject to fine or have broken the law by re- and creep up to retaining di-
found his property ruined for imprisonment. In addition, moving that eyesore off my kes. A comparable site is the
further development; in fact, he is liable to the United property so that I can start dike road along a nearby golf
Oliver refused to meet with States and other parties for improvements." course. If flooding does be-
Stout and when a meeting the damages r e s u l t i n g He apparently has his mind come fact, water would cover
was inevitable, was rude to therefrom. set on taking on the govern- the golf course area from the
the property owner. "This levee was con- ment. He said he has acted in present river bank to the
4. The government never structed by the United States a legal manner because the dike road.
had explained why it consid- in 1954 and has been in con- government had acted in an Stout says this isn't true
ered private property owned tinuous use since then to illegal manner in 1954, and because in his area the river
by Stout as public domain, protect the adjoining lands then completely disregarded tops off seven feet below the
and legal papers were not against flooding, which is an his pleas for justice. "They present bank. He also said he
served on the victim. imminent threat this sea- can take me off to jail," he wants to be taken to court
These points led Stout to son," Gear explained. said. "They can threaten me and have the opportunity of
believe he could do as he He continued, "You are all they want; but, where does defending himself and his
wished with the property therefore required, within a it say in the Constitution property. Lee Perry
anytime he decided to' start period of no more than 10 that the government can - Needles DESERT STAR
improvements. He re- days, to restore the levee in a
searched the records at manner satisfactory to us,
Mohave County courthouse. including the road thereon
Plat maps show no allowable which is depended upon to
easement given to the gov- maintain and protect the
ernment for a levee. He coulc levee. Failure to do so will
not find anything in writing leave us no alternative but to
which favored land grabs by initiate prosecution under
the federal government, anc the applicable statutes and to
his conclusion seems logical hold you responsible for such
The levee is on private prop- damages as may arise from
erty and so therefore, must the destruction of the levee
be owned by Stout. and the flooding of adjoining
So Stout decided to leve lands."
"his" dike and improve hi Stout noted that Gear sent
land prior to actual building a copy of the letter to Michael
development. He brought th D. Hawkins, United States
dike to grade. The land, he Attorney, Phoenix, Arizona.
said, is still seven feet higher Upon receipt of Gear's let-
than the top river crest. He ter, Stout sent a reply to the
sees no danger of flooding Bureau of Reclamation in
and feels the dike was con Boulder City which rea$ as
structed mainly as a conveni follows: "Dear Sir; This is
ence for the Bureau during concerning my property at
times when the levee worl Dike Road. You are not to
was being done during thi trespass men and equipment
early 1950's. on my property without my
Stout's action brough permission. To do so will be
immediate responses by th< trespassing my private prop-
Water and Power Resources erty and I will take action to Dale Stout, center, confronts a Bureau of
Service's Lower Colorado Re stop you, and any equipment Reclamation engineer.

32 Cactus Cttg Clarion


FIGHTPROMOTER RICKARD
PROMINENT IN OLD TONOPAH
Tonopah, Nev. - "Never Tex Rickard was appointed Tex had already contacted the world.
stare the spots off of your chairman and committee of the managers of two of the In 1910 Tex promoted the
c a r d s ; play!" was t h e one to sell Goldfield, Nevada world's best lightweight world heavyweight fight be-
philosophy propounded to a to the rest of America. fighters of that time, "Bat- tween Jim Jeffries and Jack
poker player In Nome by A type of town hall meeting tling" Nelson, white and Johnson in Reno. George
George (Tex) Rlckard during was held in the back room of world champion, and Joe Wingfield, a wealthy investor
the Alaska gold rush days the Northern. When all had Gans, black and a tough living In Tonopah at the time,
and such was the philosophy had their say, Tex spoke up fighter. A guaranteed purse put up most of the money.
of this famous promoter's with "Boys, everyone likes a of *30,000 in gold was Tex said of Wingfield "he's the
colorful and successful life. good fight no matter whether agreed to. best gambler I ever see'd."
After leaving Alaska Rick- It's a couple of snakes or a The two men faced each Rickard was right as usual,
ard stopped in San Francisco couple of roosters or a couple other in an open arena under for a little later Wingfield, in
long enough to meet, court of men." And what type of the sweltering sun of Gold- an open game at the Tonopah
and marry his third wife. fight could possibly create field in September, 1906. The Cub, not only broke the bank
Shortly after this marriage he more attention nationwide fight lasted for a torrid 42 but won the gambling house.
informed his bride that they than a championship bout rounds. Gans was finally F. D. Howard
would be moving to Goldfield, staged in a roaring gold camp awarded the decision on a — Tonopah TIMES-
Nevada. Some fellow he had in the middle of the Nevada foul and was declared the BONANZA and Goldfield
known in Dawson had told desert? new lightweight champion of NEWS
him that there was rock
down there that was almost
half gold and half silver, and
just about nothing else.
The Northern Saloon shot
ARIZONA'S MIRACLE MILE
Prescott, Ariz. — A central (Red) McDonald, who was moval. It appears unlikely at
out of the sands of Goldfield Airzona highway inadver- unaware of the material's this stage that the gold can be
as if energized by the very tently has been paved with riches, the county proceeded recovered, Pellow said.
presence of this man of vi- gold-up to *70,000 worth. to fill the potholes. "The ore was used to fill
sion. It was filled day and
It was discovered that 50 to After learning what had deep holes," he said. "-'It's
night with rollicking happy
100 tons of earthen material happened, Pete Incardona down so far that nobody can
men of fortune. More gam-
used to fill potholes in the and Stanley Pellow, both of get to it."
bling tables were soon needed
Bumblebee Highway west of Phoenix, produced a coun- No legal action had been
and Tex took on a partner.
Interestate 17 had been dug terclaim to the Gloryanna filed. Yavapai officials and the
Within a year's time the place
from the nearby Gloryanna Mine property. counterclaimants reportedly
had b r o u g h t in over
Mine. Pellow said yesterday that were to meet to decide what
$250,000 cash for each of the
According to Yavapai he and Incardona had the to do.
men and the flow of gold over
County Supervisor Art Cop- material assayed on the mine — Desert News Service
the gambling tables con-
pinger, a county grader oper- property while arranging to
tinued seemingly without
end.
The city fathers decided
ator authorized use of the
goldfilled earth and rock from
have it refined, and it was de-
termined that the material RECORD
that a community which in a
year's time could produce
*20 million in gold and silver,
the mine property, which he
claimed to own.
After getting the go-ahead
contained 1 to 1-1/4 ounces of
gold a ton.
In the meantime, however,
COR VINA
Bombay Beach, Calif. —
from grader operator Walter McDonald authorized its re-
and where water was more An orangemouth corvina
expensive than beer, should weighing36 lbs., 4 oz. — four
at least be deserving of na- pounds heavier than the
tional recognition.
The main problem was how BLM EYES NEW existing California record —
was taken from the Salton
to break into public print, for Sea by Melvin Mitchell of
after all, Tonopah, only 26
miles away, had similar at-
DESERT LANDMARKS Compton.
Mitchell, 48, caught the
tractions and a two-year start Riverside, Calif. — The tion under the Desert Plan. giant at 4:05 p.m. on May
on Goldfield. It was decided Riverside District of the Bu- Sites under consideration 17th, using 20-lb. test line
in a conclave over the bar of reau of Land Management include Crucifixion Thorns, and a Corvina jigger with a
the Northern that something has proposed 15 new sites in Fossil Canyon, Coyote Moun- black tip and a red skirt. The
big must be done at once to the California Desert to be tains, Picacho Peaks and catch was made about a mile
attract industry to Nevada's named as National Natural Milpitas Wash in Imperial southwest of the Bombay
fastest growing town. Landmarks. County; Deep Canyon, Mecca Beach marina in 12 feet of
But where would they find An officially named land- Hills, Painted Canyon, Box water.
someone big enough to per- mark may be on public or Canyon and Carrizo Creek in Mitchell reported that it
form a one-man chamber of privately owned lands. There Riverside County; Cima took him 35 minutes to boat
commerce feat such as this? is no obligation to the land- Dome, Devil's Playground the fish which was the only
One of the conferees, point- owner other than a voluntary and Kelso Dunes, Pisgah one he caught in nearly a full
ing his glass of beer at the commitment to protect the Crater, Cave of the Winding day of fishing. The corvina
quiet, tight-lipped owner of landmark, but nearly all of Stair and Afton Canyon in measured 45 inches in length
the Northern, said "Gen- those under consideration San Bernardino County. and 28% inches girth.
tlemen, there's your man." are already slated for protec- — Desert News Service Desert News Service

Cactus Cttg Clarion


THE MAN ON TOP
CHIRIACO SUMMIT
by John T. Frye
It's been quite a career for uphill from Indio. such transactions . . . at as the summit. It was some
the kid who hitch-hiked from Joe had worked for the times." Returning he imme- years before it was completed
Florence, Alabama, to Alabama Power Company on diately bought 40 acres for from Indio.
Pasadena for the 1926 Rose TVA projects and soon gravi- *10,000 from an old rancher About that same time Joe
Bowl game. He established a tated to construction jobs in on what was then termed met Ruth. Following a traffic
community in his name and and around Los Angeles. In Shavers Summit. accident he was carted into
got himself incorporated; he 1927 a friend got wind of the "Nearby was a two-by-four Indio Hospital for emergency
hobnobbed with high mili- huge new aqueduct system store the former owned called work. His nurse was Ruth
tary brass and was a "dol- that would bring Colorado Utopia," recalls Joe. "Instead Bergside from Minnesota via
lar-a-year-man" even before River water to Southern of south of us where the La Jolla. In June, 1934, they
Bernard Baruch and WWII; California. Joe signed on as a highway is now, the Atlantic were married and returned to
he walked' more of the the summit, where, accord-
California desert than the ing to Joe, they practically
legendary prospector "Pegleg" lived under the trees. Joe
Smith and now owns a grow- then built 14 cottages sur-
ing collection of 300 vintage rounding the store. He also
autos; and for nigh on to 50 remodeled the older store
years he's waged an on-and- next door for a school.
off q u i e t feud with h i s Teachers moved in from
nearest neighbor — the Bu- Mecca, and pupils were
reau of Land Management bussed in from the surround-
and its forerunning federal ing construction camps.
agencies. When a q u e d u c t work
Joe Chiriaco (Shi-RAY-ko, slowed in 1938 and most of
please) is big, strong, thick- the workers moved on, there
set and looks 15 years young- was no slow-down at the
er than his age, which has to summit. That same year Joe
be on the far side of social became a "dollar-a-year-
security. He can be testy, but man." That was the salary he
usually he's affable and good set for himself as clerk in
humored and becomes ani- charge of the summit Post Of-
mated in conversation involv- fice. He also handled the Star
ing history, economics, cur- Route between Indio and
rent affairs, sports and Gen- Blythe, including Desert Cen-
eral George S. Patton. Well- ter, Gypsum Quartzite, Rip-
read, logical and expressive, ley, and Palo Verde. At the
he can be convincing on his same time his driver deliv-
political viewpoints. Joe may Joe Chiriaco has been the man at the top ered ice and milk at regular
have slowed some in recent of the summit since 1932. stops.
years. He logs more rocking- chainman in a survey crew. and Pacific Highway, such as The Star Route was
chair time and turns over He walked the chains up and it was, ran north, just below dropped in 1942 when he
many operations of the family down and across the desert the aqueduct." Construction first heard there might be an
corporation to son Bob. But for five years: from Riverside was about to begin on the army of GIs nearby. "I sure
Joe Is still the power, and the to Yuma to Bullhead to Boul- aqueduct with several con- didn't want to be delivering
power behind him is Ruth, der to St. George, to Needles tractors sending crews. Large mail to all those soldiers up
his efficient, gracious and to Fenner to Parker to Indio. camps or dormitories were and down the highway. I di-
highly intelligent helpmate of By that time he was accli- set up, 5-10 miles apart. By dn't know at the time that the
47 years. mated to desert living, and he 1933 Joe had his water piped army took care of its own
Ghiriaco Summit is one ol knew the aqueduct routes in from Lost Palm Springs mail."
only two huge fuel-food- and construction in^olyjed. about five miles north. He Joe knew that the army
service-lodglng-souvenir es- When he was asked to head a later added another pipeline had arrived early in March
t a b l i s h m e n t s along the crew on the Hayfield Tunnels and a 1,000-foot well. Soon 1942 when someone walked
100-mile run on Interstate 10 northeast of his present place about 100 families had built up behind him at the bar and
from Blythe west to Indio, he turned down the job. In- shacks along the road and said, "How long you lived in
California. On a high pas: stead, in 1932 he went up to canal. The gas station and this area?"
between the Orocopia Moun- the Boulder and Los Angeles store opened August 15, "See those Chuckwalla
tains on the south and Josh- U.S. General Land Offices in- 1933 where the restaurant Mountains in the east,' said
ua Tree National Monument quiring as to prospects of ac- now sets. That day the new Joe, "They were about two
the super truck-stop com- quiring public land. "Even pavement that was to be feet high when I first ar-
munity is 20 miles west o: then," he says, "the govern- US-60 and 70 was finished rived."
Desert Center and 30 miles ment had a moratorium on on the south side only as far The voice told Joe that he

34 Cactus Qlttg Clartott


was serious and needed in- truck, a '32 Packard V-12, a
formation. Joe says he '28 Essex in running condi-
turned around to see a stern tion and a '38 Cadillac that
looking officer in a neat uni- also runs.
form with lots of stars. For Joe Chiriaco's problems
several hours Major General with the government go back
George Patton Jr. quizzed to the war years. He claims
Joe about the surrounding that in patriotic ferver he sold
desert, the availability of wa- acreage for the landing strip
ter, electricity and other to the Army for *5 per acre,
necessities and told him planning on being able to buy
some of his plans. it back after the war. Trouble
The desert sun hadn't — no paperwork. In recent
scrambled Joe Chiriaco's year's he's been miffed at
business brain. The following BLM. He's long hoped to buy
day he emptied his large serv- or trade for public land on the
ice garage. Then he went out Joe owns a growing collection of 300 vintage autos. west that's blocking any
and collected every case of in almost every, day. "He was Pauline and Margit finished chance for expansion or even
beer he could buy from Blythe a man of action," said Joe, "A their educations at UCLA; adequate parking.
to Riverside and made solid man who lived up to his word Norma and Robert went to Joe fully understands and
c o n t r a c t s with all dis- . . . an honorable straight- Arizona Northern. sympathizes with BLM on
tributors and breweries. His talking man; and he was After graduation and a tour some problems."When the
warehouse was soon stocked human with a dry sense of with the Air Force, Bob re- Joshua Tree National Monu-
to the rafters. humor." turned as general manager of ment first started in 1934, I
Within a month the first Many soldiers came into Joseph L. Chiriaco Inc. in thought it was a crazy idea —
troops began arriving, not the store minus ties or full 1965. And there have been all that land being protected
too happy about setting up prescribed uniforms. Since it many other changes at the from people when people
camp in the middle of no- was a public place the MPs summit. In early post-war need and have to have a place
where, which was about 50 notified Joe they were going years they pumped about to go.' He then began observ-
yards west of the Chiriaco to crack down or close him. 10,000 gallons of gas per ing how people could harm
store. Camp Young had a Joe hiked over to Patton's month. Now they surpass the desert. "I saw the desert
population of almost 100,000 tent and found the general 100,000. In the 1930s there covered with tanks and men.
soldiers by fall and stretched prowling around outside were 100 families in the Animals were killed and nests
from Joe's property line five with a pearl-handle revolver community. Now the perma- destroyed accidentally. In the
miles west to Cottonwood stalking rattlesnakes. He ex- nent population is Joe, Ruth, Canyon behind me there
Springs Road. Patton's head- plained the problem. Bob, Margit and her two chil- were a thousand quail when
quarters was near the middle "Don't worry about it," said dren, plus handyman Bob the army came. When the
on the site of the Thomp- Patton. Howe, a WWI Marine from Ok- army left there were no birds,
son-Sterrett construction Next day Joe's establish- lahoma who loves to walk the no coyotes, only a few jac-
camp. The Desert Training ment was declared "on-post," desert. Also in resident are at krabbits. This year I saw my
Center included several outly- thus without the uniform re- least two dozen cats and half first cotontail since 1942.
ing camps, airfields, supply strictions. a dozen dogs. The workers "Lately more and more
points and almost the entire The summit continued to live in Eagle Mountain. people seem to be unthink-
California desert as maneu- boom after the war, but the Joe's outside activities be- ing, cruel and purposely de-
ver ground. Troops to the emphasis turned toward side construction have in- structive. Look what they do
right of "em, P38s and P39s to tourists and truckers. Few cluded a five dump-truck to a parking lot or how they
the left, and guns and ammo travelers passed without partnership operating out of can ruin a rest room installed
in front of them across the stoping if they knew about Plaster City. His 300 autos? for their comfort. There have
road — the Chiriaco store the good spring water and Mostly they're vintage jun- to be controls in the desert —
was surrounded. Ruth's ham and eggs. Fa- kers that he's purchased and but I don't know how. Maybe
No complaints; Joe kept on mous also were her roast-beef hauled in — a 1915 Model "B" the whole thing is educa-
selling beer at 10 cents a bot- dinners with large helpings. Ford, a Model "T" dump- tion."
tle. Unable to get into Indio Sebastian Cabot, the TV-
often, the GIs wiled away actor, often stopped with his
their off-duty hours in Joe's family and once consumed
bar or congregated in a wide two full dinners.
ring of humanity surround Long before the freeway
ing the building. Joe set out came through and the place
beer by the cases and he sold became officially Chiriaco
peanuts and pigs' feet by the Summit about 1958, Joe and
barrels. By 2 A.M. closing Ruth were raising their own
time, he said, the floor was a help. Summers and after
foot deep in shucks and school and the long bus ride
bones. When the troops left up from Coachella, the
on bivouac they lined up to Chiriaco kids learned the
buy cheese, bologna, soups, business. Pauline, Margit,
fresh fruit and such delicas- Norma and Robert put in
sies, leaving behind rations long hours and often com-
of canned meat and fruits plete night shifts in the
that delighted the store per- kitchen, waiting on tables or
sonnel. working the growing sou- In thefall of 1942 Camp Young had a population of almost
Patton and his staff came venir and antique stores. 100,000 soldiers. Troops surrounded the Chiriaco store.

CactusfllthtGU
nrrnvr
DESERT ROCKHOUND

by James R. Mitchell
Collecting Sites Update: malachite, chrysocolla and al, there is a chance it could S h o w s : The S o u t h e r n
For a fee of * 10.00 per person, azurite can still be obtained by get into your lungs and, due to California Federation of Min-
per day, you can dig precious searching through the dumps the microscopic size of the eralogical Societies will hold
opal at the famous Royal and excavated areas. This has diamond particles, actually Its 41st annual show, enti-
Peacock Mines near Denio, long been one of my favorite pass into the blood stream and tled "Days of Gems and
Nevada. Some of the finest fire spots to find quality speci- eventually lodge in body tissue. Roses," at the Pasadena Cen-
opal obtainable anywhere can mens of these minerals and I There is no evidence as to the ter in Pasadena, California. It
be found here, in addition to am very happy that rock- potential harm, if any, but he will take place August 1st
nice fluorescent and interest- hounds can once again col- advises users to be most care- through August 3rd and
ing dendrite material. The col- lect here. To get to this well ful when spraying, being sure should be an outstanding
ors range from black to green, known location, take 1-15, ap- to get it on the wheel and not event.
red, orange, yellow, violet and proximately 26 miles east from on yourself. The Reno Gem and Mineral
white, and it works up into Baker to the Cima turnoff. Helpful Hint: An article in the Society's a n n u a l show,
beautiful polished stones. If Head north, bearing to the Wickenburg Gem and Mineral "Jackpot of Gems," will be
you don't feel like digging, right, for about eight miles to Society Newsletter suggests held from August 23rd
specimens, either rough or Clark Mountain where you will using a permanent ink, felt tip through August 24th at the
polished, can be purchased at find the mine at the road's marker instead of the stand- C o n t e n n i a l Coliseum in
the adjacent rock shop. There end. ard aluminum pencil to make Reno, Nevada, and also prom-
is good camping either at the guide lines on stones for cut- ises to be an event worth
mine itself or at the nearby ting and grinding. It does not visiting.
government facility. For more disappear as the aluminum Court Decision: The Arizona
information, contact Joy L. often does, and is much easier Supreme Court has recently
Wilson, Denio, Nevada 89404. to see. I have tried this made a ruling that could have
One of the best places in the technique and will never go far reaching implications to
southwest to obtain top- back to using aluminum. I people with mining claims.
quality obsidian is only an employ a. fine tip marker and According to the Rand Dis-
hour's drive northeast of find it makes my grinding, trict News and Miner, the
Bishop, California. It is a hill cutting and shaping much court ruled that in order for a
literally covered with fine, more accurate. Beware that claimholder to have exclusive
gem-quality material. Excel- some water soluble coolants, rights to a claim, he must
lent mahogany, black, banded however, dissolve the marks, both occupy it and exhibit a
grey and black, and even some but for the majority of lapidary "diligent search for miner-
with a bluish iridescence can projects, using oil or water, it als." The case was initiated
be found, much being facet works very well. by the Lucky Me Uranium
quality. To get to this remark- Publications: The California Corporation when Geomet
able location, take US 6 from Division of Mines and Geol- Exploration Ltd. started
Bishop, through Benton, for ogy publishes an outstanding prospecting on their claims.
about 38 miles to the Museums: If in Tucson, monthly magazine called Geomet argued that Lucky
California-Nevada border. Arizona, I recommend taking a California Geology. Each Me simply drilled ten-foot
Continue another two and few hours to visit the out- month there are articles deep holes on each of the 200
one-half miles and you will see, standing displays in the Uni- covering a wide range of sub- claims it filed and did noth-
on the north side of the road, a versity of Arizona's Miner- jects, many of interest to the ing more. They further con-
small guest ranch. Take the alogical Museum. Especially rockhound whether from tended that Lucky Me was
dirt road past it to the moun- interesting is their exhibit of Caliofornia or elsewhere. The not occupying the claims nor
tain, approximately one and chemically identical minerals editorial content includes had they discovered any min-
one-half miles, to where the that occur in a variety of differ- geology, mining, seismology, erals. Geomet, therefore,
collecting begins. Prime mate- ent forms. They also have an paleontology, mineralogy and started their own search,
rial can be found all over the excellent display of Arizona other earth sciences. The an- finding uranium at some of
side of the hill and in many of rocks and gems, featuring ex- nual subscription price is the disputed locations. The
the adjacent ravines. quisite copper varieties. It's a *3.00 and I recommend it to court ruled in favor of
I have been informed by the stop well worth the time for those who would like to learn Geomet, saying "a mining
Silvery Colorado River Rock any rockhound. more about their hobby and claim must be worked ac-
Club that the Copper World Warning: According to Dr. Le- would like to be kept up to tively to confer exclusive pos-
Mine is once again open to col- land W. Marple, in an article date on some of the latest re- session on a c l a i m a n t . "
lecting. It was closed a few appearing in the Permian search. To subscribe, send Geomet was allowed to con-
years ago when a group Faceter, there are certain dan- your request and fee to the tinue their operations on the
started mining its beautiful gers to users of 100,000-grit California Division of Mines lands, even though Lucky Me
"Royal Blue" azurite commer- diamond spray compounds. If and Geology, P.O. Box 2980, had filed claim to the area
cially. Nice specimens of you should inhale this materi- Sacramento, CA 95812. three years earlier.

36 Cactus City Clarion


* DESERT Monthly
CALENDAR Photo this
Listing for Calendar must be received Contest publication is
at least three months prior to the event.
There is no charge for this service.
Rules available in
May 2 2 - Sept. 7: Exhibition. Hop!
Kachina: Spirit of Life. California Each month when entries
microform
Academy of Sciences. San Francisco, warrant, DESERT Magazine
Calif. May 22 through September 7, will award $25for the best
1980.
black and white
Starting July 9: El Paso, Texas, is photograph submitted.
preparing to celebrate its 400th
birthday next year, but if your plans Subject must be
lead you to this West Texas-Mexican desert- related.
border city between July 9 and Au-
gust 30 of this year . . . you can still Here Are The Rules Please send me additional information.
catch a glimpse of the first 399 years 1. Prints must be B&W, 8x10, glossy. University Microfilms
with the outdoor drama, "VIVA! EL
PASO!" The production plays Wed-
2. Contest is open to amateur and International
professional. DESERT requires 300 North Zeeb Road
nesdays through Saturdays at 8:30
first publication rights. Dept. P.R.
p.m. between July 9 and August 30. Ann Arbor, M148106
3. Each photograph must be labeled
Mail orders and ticket information U.S.A.
(time, place, shutter speed, film, and
can be obtained by writing: VIVA! EL 18 Bedford Row
camera).
PASO!; 1301 Texas Avenue; El Paso, Dept. P.R.
TX 79901. General admission is 4. Judges are from DESERTs staff. London, WC1R 4EJ
5. Prints will be returned if England
$2.50 Wednesdays and Thursdays,
*3.00 on Fridays and Saturdays. For self-addressed stamped envelope is
Name
further information: Robbie Farley enclosed.
Institution
(915)533-1671. Street
Address all entries to Photo Editor,
City
Starting July 21: Four one-week DESERT Magazine, State _ -Zip
sessions of Summer School spon- P.O. Box 1318, Palm Desert, CA 92261.
sored by the San Diego Museum of
Man. Classes will meet every day
9:30-3:30 p.m., for a week. Activities
LIFETIME OF MEMORIES
will include a wide variety of super- READ ABOUT
vised anthropological activities, in- TODAY'S GOLDRUSH PACK THE GRAND CANYON
cluding making African masks, play- SOUTH RIM • NORTH RIM
Articles and news items about SUPAI WATERFALLS
ing anthropological games, making prospecting, mines and mining, both WE TELL YOU HOW TO MAKE THE
Indian "fry" bread, a n d learning large and small operations. Pic- ARRANGEMENTS TO SEE IT ALL
about the Hop! and other Indian tures, hints, tips, advertisements for WE SEND MAPS, PHOTOS, TIPS.
WHAT TO, AND WHAT NOT TO TAKE
tribes. Classes will be for 5-8 year olds machinery, mines and claims. PLUS INFO ON BEST TIMES TO GO.
Published monthly. $5.00 per year. FOR 8X11 BOOKLET S E N D . . .
and 9-12 year olds. Children should Send for sample cop_v. $2.95
bring sack lunches. Early registration
is a must. For schedules and registra- Western PROSPECTOR & MINER B.EXUM
tion information, call the Museum of Dept. D PHOTO O ARTS
Box 14K. Tombstone, AZ85fi:(8 P.O. BOX 6527, ORANGE, CALIF. 92667
Man, (714) 239-2001.
August 1-9: Eighth Annual Festival
of the American West, Utah State Uni-
versity, Logan, Utah. The Festival is a Your Family Will Enjoy
recreation of frontier life as it ap-
peared in the 19th century. For fur- . . . the pleasure of watching these
ther information, write or call: Utah delightful creatures at play and feeding.
State University, UMO 14 R-107, Lo-
gan, UT 84322. (801) 750-1144 or
Mountain iDesiirt.Inc We supply the feeder and instructions.
You supply the pleasure. Easy to clean,
bee proof, rust proof. These flowerlike
1145. feed holes are designed to attract
hummers
October 4-5: Manufacturers and ex-
hibitors, along with visitors from out
JUST FOB YOU! 9 02. feeder, $10.95 or 2 for $19.95

All weather feeder for other


of state should make plans now for Expeditions from Sierras to Nevada, kinds of birds, $9.95
the 13th Annual National Prospectors Death Valley to Mt. Whitney California residents
and Treasure Hunters Convention at • Bonded Guides • Fishing
add 6%
Follows Camp, Azusa, Calif. This loca- • 4WDs. • Photography M O U N T A I N COUNTRY
tion is 30 miles east of Los Angeles off • Camping • Geology Box 2187, Dept. A
I-10 or U.S.-66. Rig and Table displays Idyllwild, CA 92349
• Hiking • Wildflowers
are free on a first-come basis, with You name it, We'll do the rest.
advance reservations required. Con- DEPT. D
tact Jean Glick, Chmn., 21106 S. P.O. BOX 2005 Ridgecrest, Calif. 93555
Denker Ave., Torrance, CA 90501. [714 ]375-1004 Hummingbird Feeder
(213)320-5061.

Cactus Qlttn flliartrm


High Gold Prices PutNew life In I will be available from 6
a.m. to 8 a.m., and again
from 2:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.,
Famous Homestake Mine s#p work they do. The harder
Monday through Friday. I will
not be available on weekends.
Should your man encounter
Lead, S.D. — A loaded 12- "This mine should have
gauge shotgun hangs on a aeen shut down years ago," they work the more money a line at my door, please ad-
wall near the 1890 beam-bal- Winters said. "It made they earn. Today the miners vise him to be patient.
D
ance scale in the old corru- economic sense to shut it are earning $20,000 to erhaps it would be best if he
gated-iron refinery office. down. *30,000ayear." would come on odd days, as I
Eino J. Mackie, 61, and "But shutting down the Battery-operated locomo- lave two other gas compa-
Tom Guider. 58, are in the mine was something the tives buzz back and forth, nies coming on even days,
office hammering the Home- company avoided at all costs. lickety-clacking over 250 and preferably, before the
stake Mining Company seal, There are a helluva lot of miles of steel rails deep in the 20th of the month, as my al-
a serial number and the year people that depend on Home- tunnels of the mine. The ocation of money will prob-
on 400-ounce gold bars. stake for employment — trains carry miners to their ably be gone by then. Also the
It's all in a day's work for 1,700 here at the mine. work stations and haul ore to bills may not be payable in
the refinery foreman and as- "It had come to the point cages to be lifted to the full as I have allocated only 80
sistant foreman. They pick where we were planning to surface. percent of my last year's sal-
up the gold bars and walk a close down the operation. If The miners drill, blast and ary toward current bills.
few feet into a century-old the price of gold had not gone muck the rock for eight ($20.00 limit)
vault where the bullion is up, we would have been out hours, perspiring profusely. A green flag at my door in-
stored. of business within the next Huge steel bolts hold steel dicates money is still avail-
The two bars are worth three to four years. plates in place on the walls able, a yellow flag indicates
more than half a million "So, we're collecting our and ceilings of the tunnels the doctor ordered me out on
dollars. thoughts and are gearing up and stopes (rooms) to prevent a camping trip to get away
These are busy times at the to push forward. cave-ins. from the pressures of bill col-
Homestake, a mine that pro- "One of the immediate Each day 5,000 to 7,000 lectors, and a red flag means
duces nearly one-third of all things is to get our mill up to tons of ore-bearing rock are your representative is too
the gold mined in the United capacity. It is now running blasted and hoisted to the late.
States, the mine that has only three-fourths capacity. surface by miners to be Thank you.
produced over *1 billion In the next couple of months crushed by giant machines — Bear Gulch Rock Club,
worth of gold since 1876. we will begin processing and treated with cyanide in Inc.
In the 1912 headquarters waste dumps in the area, the the mill to dissolve the gold.
building of the Homestake tailings from old mining to It takes about five tons of
Mining Co. on the main take up the slack. rock to produce one ounce
street of Lead (pronounced "We estimate there are 5
Leed), population 6,000, in million tons of tailings within
of gold.
The mayor of Lead is Bolest
HOW TO
the Black Hills of South a radius of five miles. The
Dakota, Al Winters, 40, gen- tailings, we believe, will give
(Jug) Jagodzinski, 65, a
Homestake miner for 31
SPLIT
eral manager of the mine, us about .03 ounces of gold years.
talked about the effect of the per ton." John Finola, 80, has run a
soaring price of gold on his The coverall-clad miners clothing store on the main
operation, and on this part oi descend into the bowels of street of Lead for 42 years.
the country: the earth each day in rattling
"We've been hoping some- cages. They carry their lunch
"Lead has always been a
good solid place to live and A ROCK
thing like this would happen baskets and on their hard work because of the Home- Ontario, Calif. - To cut na-
for years. The price rise ha hats are miners' lights. Some stake Mine," Finola said. "It tive stones and rocks into
taken us by complete sur- of the men are fifth and sixth has never been a boom town smaller pieces needed for
prise. It means now we can generation Homestake as such, or been in a deep fireplaces, entrance markers
think in terms of preparing miners. depression.". and stone fronts, saturate a
for the next 100 years, in- Ray Smith, 44, the mine - Western PROSPECTOR & one-half inch rope with
stead of the next one or two superintendent, has long MINER gasoline and tie it around the
years. sideburns and a plug of stone where the split should
"With the price of gold Copenhagen chewing to- occur. Ignite the rope and
where it is we're planning bacco in his mouth. He sits wait until the brief, hot flame
major developments at the on an open mining car with a A LOVE dies away. Strike the stone
Homestake. We're going to knot of miners going to their
make a new mine out of an diggings at the 5,300-foot LETTER TO several sharp blows with a
sledge hammer, following the
old mine. It's going to cost a level. Smith observed:
great deal of money. But "It takes a special type AN OIL charred mark of the burned
rope. The stone will fall
we've got to pour money back of person for underground
into the mine if we want it work. Last year we hired 700 COMPANY cleanly apart where the rope
has been bound. For splitting
here for years of profitable new men. They work a few Dear Sir, smaller stones or breaking off
production." weeks to see if they like it, to Due to a money shortage i small sections in a series of
Winters said that the plan see if the company likes will no longer be possible for splits from a larger stone, an
is to spend *6 million this them. Only 50 of the 700 me to mail my gasoline pay old clothesline will serve as
year on development and new stayed. ment so it will be necessary well. Since the breaks are
equipment, *8 million nex "Miners are self-starters. for a representative from your clean and follow the burning
year and another $6 million They work in two-man min- company to come to my rope, much labor in dressing
in 1982. Millions more will be ing teams. They're paid ac- house and pick it up each the stone is saved.
spent on exploration. cording to the amount of month. CHIPS and TIPS

38 Cactus ditto (Ulartott


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nRSFRT
What member of the lily
family, growing in the southwest U.S., is
used as an internal-external medicine,
a cosmetic, a fashionable drink, and
valued in gardens for its stately beauty?
book, "Aloes in Burns and Scalds," by J. E.
Crewe, M.D.

THE VERSATILE A Riverside, California woman is


convinced of Aloe vera s effect on burns
without reading any of the many
aloe-praising articles and books. Her
barefooted fifteen-year-old grandson,
tending a 4th of July bonfire, unknowingly
walked in kerosene. The soles of his feet
suddenly were aflame. When the flames
were extinguished, Aloe veru was
immediately applied. In two hours the
teenager was able to rejoin the festivities.
Yet the oldest use of this plant is not as a
burn cure but as a laxative. Greek and Arab
physicians of the 4th Century B.C. left
writings expounding this use. And Roman
writers Dioscorides and Pliney, and famed
Roman physician Celsus, praised aloe as a
laxative and also as a skin healer.
by MARIANSEDDONand Today's veterinarians use the laxative
and vermifuge called caballine or horse
DOROTHY PARCEL aloe, buying it mainly from huge
plantations of aloe on the Barbados and
Curacao Islands in the Caribbean, where it
was first carried by slaves. Plants from this
source are called Aloe barbadensis.
cold sores and poison oak rash. An even
longer list of cosmetic uses includes being

T
an effective shampoo, a skin cleanser and a
scar smoother. Being non-allergenic
^ ^ ^ N TNTIL
I L recent years the greatly enhances aloe's merits.
many uses for the gray-green succulent What is not well known is that aloes are
were little known except to Indians and a not native to the southwest. They were ,HE complex alkaloid
few botanists and herbalists. But with the planted in the New World by African slaves chemistry of aloe gel is still not completely
spiraling interest today in natural versus and even earlier by the Spaniards. JL. HE cohave found that
understood. Researchers
synthetic products, Aloe veru is becoming Wherever terrain and climate resembled aloes contain antibacterial properties
known throughout the world. Nurseries their native Mediterranean area, aloes took called anthraquinones; aloins (Barbaloin
banner it "The Medicine Plant" and lure root and spread. Later immigrants and Isobarbaloin) which are purgative; and
buyers, young and old, into lugging home considered them natives and were chrysophanic acid, a skin healer.
a graceful aloe to add to their gardens or to entranced by the three to four foot Ancient users, though ignorant of
sit on their kitchen window sills ready for vase-shaped beauty with its inflorescence alkaloids and aloins, nevertheless valued
any emergency. Mail order sales of aloe (flower) varying from yellow to coral, aloe so highly that even after centers of
products — gels, lotions, shampoos, adding a foot or more to the total height of civilization shifted to Western Europe, the
ointments, bottled drinks — have more the plant. plant was imported at great price. At one
than quadrupled in the last two years. Fortunately for everyone, the sun-loving time the King of Socotra, an Indian Ocean
Many, though not all, such companies are aloes will flourish in an imperfect setting. island south of Arabia, cornered
southwest-based to be close to the supply. The two conditions they refuse to abide are the market.
The Texas ranch of one firm boasts of standing water and icy winds. However, since aloe could not grow in
"over 100,000 aloes." Western Europe's cold, damp air they
Interest in a plant with attributes gradually fell into disuse. Then in the 1930s
strikingly akin to the supposed benefits of came X-rays and with them, the
elixers once hawked by medicine show
barkers is likely to continue to soar. For
these claims, unlike medicine show
cure-alls, are substantiated by documented
laboratory research and the enthusiastic
testimony of aloe users. Medicinal claims
range from relief of pain and healing of
M OST dramatic uses of
aloes involve burns. The gelatinous inside
of a split aloe leaf not only inhibits the
awful pain but usually leaves no tragic
frightening, hard to heal, ulcerous X-ray
burns. Medical researchers frantically
reactivated aloe.
One of these early researchers was C. E.
Collins. A commercial aloe gel sold today
bears his name. With better X-ray machines
and the easily synthesized antibiotics of the
burns (even X-ray burns) and ulcers scarring. That aloe dressings do not stick to next decades, aloe use see-sawed
including stomach ulcers, to eradication of burned skin is an advantage detailed in the downward. Today with nuclear dangers,
40 AUGUST, 1980
MOST DRAMATIC USES
OF ALOES INVOLVE BURNS.
Aloe vera should be at least three years old,
preferably older, before its juices
become most effective for healing.
current interest in herbs, and the growing
acknowledgement even among some
physicians that healing cannot be left
entirely to the profit-oriented drug
industry, Aloe veru is better known than
ever before.

w
should be clarified.
interest
snowballing, the many myths about aloe
V VITH inti true that Aloe
It is not
vera or its twin, Aloe barbadensis are the
only useful aloes among the over 200
varieties. While aloes are indeed
mentioned in the Bible, they are from a
totally different source — a resinous,
sweet-smelling Judean gum tree — and
were used as incense. A plant often
confused with aloes are agaves, which are
native to the New World. Both agaves and
aloes are useful plants and somewhat
similar in appearance, but there is no
similarity in their chemical properties.
It is true that some aloes grow in Hawaii
and the Orient, but the tourist who is
urged to buy a plant and smuggle it
through Customs is being hoodwinked. He
or she could probably get a plant free from
his neighbor or buy one for a few dollars at
the nearest nursery.

T
conditions. For
. O grow your own
outdoor aloe, simply give it cactus-like
- J best
L Oresults
gro indoors, fill
your pot with two parts loam and one part
coarse sand, broken brick, crushed
limestone, and a little bone meal. Drainage
is needed. After its flower becomes seed,
mix the seeds with sandy soil for
germination.
Desert dwellers in particular should
know about aloe, for sun and dry air can be
cruel to complexions. Aloe, in addition to
its healing qualities, appears to soften skin,
lessening and postponing wrinkles.
As researchers continue to explore
natural products they will find new uses for
this attractive member of the lily family. But
even if never used as a medicine, salve,
cosmetic or refreshing drink, aloes add
dignified beauty to the gardens of
the southwest. EH
THE FLIGHT OF

A Saga of
DesertSurvival

by T. C. WEIR and killed Lolita's father, and then fled with


her into the wilds of the Mojave Desert.
There is something about There, armed only with a Winchester rifle,
the California Desert that plus a keen knowledge of desert survival,
prompts men on the run to Willie Boy eluded capture for nearly three
weeks. Unmatched in duress to this day,
seek her sanctuary. Joaquin that sojourn earned for Willie Boy a
Murrieta, a Mexican bandito permanent place in the history of the
of an earlier time, used California Desert.
her boulders and ravines Had he not run, but surrendered or
to hide from the law been captured at the scene, it is doubtful
for many months. The the Indian would have been given more
than a mention in the local press. Murders
infamous Manson Family were then, as now, common events and
headquartered in the desert, Indians were often afoul of the law. The
as did At Capone, way back killing of an Indian by another Indian in
when. Even now, it's a rare 1909 would have hardly raised an eyebrow,
year that some desperado let alone gain national attention.
does not flee to her But Willie Boy decided to run and men
like to chase after running prey, especially
anonymous stretches, hoping prey that is cunning and dangerous. So
to dodge lawmen on the hunt when word spread that Old Mike Boniface,
with horses and 4WDs and, a Chemeheuvi Indian, had been shot dead
lately, helicopters. Of all who under his own blanket and his daughter
have sought her refuge, taken captive into the desert, men began to
saddle up and load up and move out in
though, none looms more what was to become one of the biggest
boldly in our desert lore than manhunts in the history of the Old West,
a young Paiute Indian called and one of its last.
Willie Boy. By 1909 the Old West as we see it today
in movies and on television had all but
olstered by stolen whiskey and vanished from real life. More and more,
blinded by his love for a young people were becoming citified. They
Indian girl named Lolita, Willie moved about in motorcars, dressed like
Boy, on a hot September night in 1909, shot dudes, built houses complete with inside
Willie Boy posed in his Sunday toilets that flushed. Change was in the air,
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY O F HARRY LAWTON best for a Banning photographer progress ran at full throttle. To try to hold
AND SPECIAL COLLECTIONS - UNIVERSITY just a few days before he onto the dying past meant only to die
O F CALIFORNIA LIBRARY, RIVERSIDE murdered old Mike Boniface. with it.
Then the Willie Boy saga exploded and what he could do with her and what he become his snare.
for one brief moment the Old West was could not, so he trusted her to help The men grew silent as they gathered at
born again. Men on horseback, with guns him escape. the top of a ridge and looked down. Only
and grit and a sense of law and order, the careless squeak of saddlery and the
Western Style, arose like phantoms from f he pair were able to gain a good occasional snort of a horse broke the
the past to ride once more across the
open range. 7 six hours on any one who chose to
follow them. Fearing death, too,
Old Mike's family had waited that long to
stillness. At the bottom of the ridge,
sprawled face down across a boulder,
Lolita lay dead, a bullet in her back.
w illie Boy was in the truest sense a report the killing to authorities. Still, Willie To the men in pursuit, Lolita's murder

W 'desert Indian. Born in Pahrump,


Nevada, he migrated with his
family to an oasis at Twentynine Palms,
Boy took no chances. Keeping well out of
sight of the main roads, he made his way
with Lolita through the draws and canyons
was further evidence of Willie Boy's
savagery. A hindrance to him now because
of her fatigue, he had cut her down to save
California. There he learned to shoot and that bordered the high deserts, of Morongo himself. To the Indian, though", her killing
hunt and ride a horse with amazing skill. was an act of mercy, to save her from being
He was a runner, too, and one of the best taken by white men. To Willie Boy, Lolita
baseball players in Banning, California, an was his wife. If he gave her up to the white
important desert farming region and the man, he would, in effect, be giving
scene of his treacherous murder of up himself.
Old Mike. Regardless of his motive for killing the
As with other Indians of that area, Old girl, her death did spread the distance
Mike and his people were in Banning to between himself and the posse. Not only
work the almond harvest. Willie Boy was could he move more swiftly now, the posse
working the ranches, too, but his real
reason for being in Banning was because
Lolita was there. He loved her very much. was forced to turn back for the moment to
Marriage, though, was forbidden. bring Lolita home. Thus Willie Boy gained
Distantly related, such a union would have an extra edge. But had they not returned
been considered heinous among the with the girl, coyotes would surely have
Indians. Willie Boy knew this, but he either devoured her.
did not agree with it, or felt it unimportant
r
in light of the love he had for the girl. eanwhile, those hunting Willie Boy
He thus ignored Old Mike's warning to
forget his daughter and leave her alone.
Instead, he captured her and took her
M grew from a local constable with a
handful of men to two sheriffs
departments from as many counties, the
away. Marriage by capture, an ancient Bureau of Indian Affairs, dozens of white
custom among Indians of that area, was men, several Indian trackers, Banning
rarely practiced in Willie Boy's time. That Reservation police and wagons loaded with
he used it clearly showed the lengths he provisions for several days of desert
was willing to go to possess the girl. pursuit. Dispersed at different times and to
When Old Mike discovered his daughter different areas where they thought Willie
had been taken by Willie Boy, he quickly Boy might be heading, the manhunt grew
tracked them down and recaptured the to monumental proportions. With the
girl. By custom, he would have had the murder of Lolita, it also grew into a
right to kill Willie Boy, but because of past grim resolve.
friendships, he merely upbraided him and Until Lolita's body was brought back to
returned with Lolita to camp. This was his Banning, the newspapers had given the
fatal error. In three months' time, Old Mike manhunt little attention. With this new
himself would be dead and Lolita would outrage, however, black headlines began to
Segundo Chino, an Indian
be, once again, Willie Boy's captive bride. emerge, exploiting Willie Boy as a mad
tracker, was a member of the
The California Desert can be a deadly killer on the loose. Localized at first, the
adversary. Caught beneath her sun without posse and a hero of the ambush. story was eventually picked up by the wire
water or proper covering, she can kill you Valley and Yucca. Three days later, they services and soon the whole nation was
in less than a day. Wander too far from road reached an area called The Pipes. There following the manhunt. It was as if people
or house or other landmark, she'll trick Willie Boy risked a campfire to cook a everywhere sensed in this final struggle of
you into vertigo, then bake you to death rabbit he had shot. the past to live, an excitement all wanted
while you dig at her sand for water. Trackers, arriving at The Pipes the next to share.
Decline to rest in whatever shade she day, found the campfire still warm. Willie Boy's main concern, though, was
provides, she'll oblige your foolishness Encouraged, those who could pushed on, not in headlines but in survival and
with a forced march through her burning confident that Willie Boy was just ahead. eventual escape. He felt that if he could
hell. Never take the desert for granted, He was also in trouble. While his tracks reach the oasis at Twentynine Palms, his
never think to deal with her on any terms were steady and sure, it was apparent that people would provide refuge, or a horse
but hers. Lolita's were becoming scuff marks in the and supplies for further flight.
Willie Boy had respect for the desert, sand. She was either resisting or tiring out. When he reached the oasis, exactly one
both as friend and as adversary. He had Whatever, her reluctant steps were sure to week from the night he killed Old Mike, he
walked her many times, hunted her game, slow Willie Boy down. Taking heart in this found it deserted and stripped of
drank from her springs, slept upon her knowledge, the men bedded down for the everything he could have used to aid his
shifting sands. He had been whipped by night, certain this matter with the Indian escape. Everyone had fled to the Banning
her windstorms, broiled by her sun. He would soon be settled. Reservation for safety, fearing that if Willie
knew the wrath of her winters and the Having breakfast before sunup, the men Boy came to Twentynine Palms, he would
fierceness of her flash floods, one of which were back on the trail by dawn. Happily, it kill them all.
had swept his own parents to their deaths read the same as yesterday. Lolita was Denied their support, Willie Boy's spirit
when Willie Boy was but a child. He knew holding Willie Boy back. His quarry had withered. He glanced about him, appalled
at the devastation he had caused; handcuffs and shattered his hip. He lay in descended. "He's shot himself." But the
remembering, perhaps, happier times the open, face up, blood pulsing badly men would not wait to find out.
when, as a teenager here, he had had some from his wound. A week was gone before another posse
hope of a meaningful life. It was gone now, The men, now under cover, began firing went back to Ruby Mountain to try to pick
gone forever. He checked his rifle, counted randomly at the barricade. But only now up Willie Boy's trail. The trail, though, went
his rounds, then turned resolutely back and then would Willie Boy fire back. When no further than the barricade. Willie Boy
toward the desert wastes that had so one of the Indian trackers dashed away for had, indeed, taken his own life.
recently shielded him. Now they were help, Willie Boy danced bullets after him, So ended the manhunt. So closed an era.
soon to witness his death. but always off target. It was peculiar Much was made of the matter. A play was
A full four days after his visit to the oasis, response from a man fighting for his life. written and performed to packed houses.
Willie Boy reached Ruby Mountain where Peculiar, too, was Willie Boy's decision Ruby Mountain was renamed Willie Boy
he decided to make his stand. He found a to kill the horses instead of the men. He Mountain. Two sheriffs were re-elected on
natural barricade along the mountain could easilyhave gotten them all, taken the strength of the hunt, a Reservation
which gave him full view of anyone who one of the horses and what supplies he superintendent lost her job because of it

Riverside County sheriff Frank L | T T L E S ^ BERNARO/NOMT&


Wilson (left) led the first and then
the last Willie Boy posses.
approached from below. There was only a
distant willow thicket behind which his
attackers could hide. From this vantage
point, Willie Boy waited and rested and
considered his plight.

jm fter two weeks and 500 miles of


MA desert torment, he was too tired to needed and made good his escape. With and a young reporter made a name for
M A run anymore. But even if he had two murders already against him, why himself by his coverage of the struggle.
the will and strength to go on, where should he balk at further killings? Fifty years were to pass, though, before
would he go? And who was there to help To the men who crouched below the any valuable narrative was produced. Harry
him? He had killed the only thing he loved barricade, such restraint seemed illogical.Lawton's "Willie Boy, A Desert Manhunt"
and unleashed upon himself, it seemed, To Willie Boy, who waited above, it was the(Paisano Press, Balboa Island, Calif., I960)
the anger of everyone who knew of his only option he had left, seeing that he wasis a stirring, yet objective account of the
deed. He had no will to move ahead, or already dead. event. From this came the movie, "Tell
even think ahead. It seemed the desert had When a man dies, he dies first in his Them Willie Boy Is Here," starring Robert
beaten all of that out of him and left him a mind, regardless of how soon or late the Redford with Robert Blake as Willie Boy.
mindless form without the power to physical death follows. So with Willie Boy. As for Willie Boy himself? Though the
determine any part of his destiny. All he needed was time to earn' out the desert would not give him the life he
The five men who broke from the physical act. Pinning the posse down bargained for, she did provide him with an
willow thicket had but a moment to would give him that time. immortality that reached beyond the finite
evaluate the barricade above them before survival of the flesh. She found a niche for
Willie Boy opened fire. Dropping one w hen darkness came, the men him in history's walls and placed him there
horse, spooking a second, then dropping
three more, Willie Boy had every man
unhorsed and running for cover before
W 'decided to give up the vigil and
take their wounded leader back
down the mountain to medical aid. The
as she had placed him in the crevices and
crannies of her trackless landscape.
It was a reward he had not sought, an
any of them could draw a gun. It was the Indian could wait, they surmised. As they honor he had not considered the night he
fight all of them had been waiting for, but eased the pain-racked man onto the only ran to her for hiding. But then, no man on
not one had been prepared. surviving horse, a rumble of rocks was . the run wants any more from the desert
During the fracas only one man, the heard from above, then a single shot than a place to run and hide. Fame is just
leader, was shot. The bullet that was meant cracked through the air. something extra, sometimes thrown in and
for his horse had glanced off the tracker's "He's dead," someone whispered as they sometimes not. fj]
PHOTO CONTEST

Rain Cloud, West-central New Mexico, July, 1979 (about 5:00 p.m.)
Nikon F camera, Tri-X film, F16,1/60 second

MARJORIE McCLOY
San Francisco, California

For contest rules seepage 3 7


ENERGY FROM THE
by Dave McNary A Status operating on our system that are once-
through units. Certainly, the turbine
generator is nothing new to us. The

A precursor of practical solar power


l \ plants all over the southwest desert
Report on thermal storage is really nothing more than
a big tank filled with oil, crushed granite
and sand. The energy will be stored in that
in the form of hot oil and hot rocks and the
/ I country now stands partially
constructed amid the creosote bushes near
Daggett, twelve miles southeast of Barstow,
Solar energy will be withdrawn as we want to
operate after the sun goes down."
The heliostats themselves will be
California.
Known as "Solar One," it is a
10-megawatt (10,000 kilowatt) receiver
pilot plant. It will use 1,818 mirrors to focus
One adjusted continuously as the sun moves.
Each is supported on one central
foundation and is designed to withstand
winds of up to 35 miles per hour while
sunlight on a boiler atop a 300-foot tower reflecting the sun. The heliostats can be
and produce steam for electrical power stowed in a face-down position during
through a turbine generator. wind and rain storms. Reeves indicates the
When it goes into operation in October mirrors can withstand a 90 mph wind,
1,1981, Solar One's impact will stretch far I I tilities plan to operate repowering which is above the maximum for the area,
beyond providing additional electricity for / / projects by 1985 and "stand alone" in the stowed position.
California. Southern California Edison, for \ J solar projects by 1994. Edison "The only thing really new is the
example, plans to use experience from specifically plans seven 100-megawatt complexity of controlling the plant, which
Solar One to help build enough solar plants for between 1994 and 2000, each is what our master control system does. It's
power plants to provide 700 megawatts by using a 1,000-acre desert site. a series of computers that will make all
the year 2000. The commitment by Edison And it's not surprising, then, that a team these systems work together and will
is solid enough for Joseph Reeves, of researchers, headed by Professor individually control each and every
program director for the utility and its Frederick Turner of UCLA, has been heliostat. So the whole thing is not beyond
associates in the project, to say, "We're in a commissioned to study the environmental the fringes of current technology," he says.
position where this has go; to prove out." effects of Solar One. Clearance of the 130 "What's new here is to try and put them all
Edison joins the U.S. Department of acre site began last fall, but most of the together and make them all work in a
Energy, the Los Angeles Department of crucial tests won't even start until 1982, newwav."
Water and Power and the California Energy Turner says. The group began work
Commission as the builders and operators in 1978.
of Solar One. The total cost will be an Turner adds, "There are no precedents
estimated $139.5 million. It is the first such for this kind of investigation." He declines
m

7
plant of any significant size in the world. to speculate as to what environmental wo nine-month delays have
That cost means a lot of money effects may result from the project, other pushed the Solar One completion
producing very little power, but it also than general statements like, "The main date back to late 1981, and they are
pushes solar power toward becoming effects probably will stem from the loss of the reason that the project cost estimate
financially competitive with other forms of water, and waste heat from the cooling rose recently from $123 to $139.5 million,
power generation. "Right now, it's unfair to tower." Also due for study are the effects of Reeves says, in addition to inflation. First,
characterize Solar One as economical, glare on aircraft and the hazard, if any, to in early 1978, President Carter pulled the
Reeves admits, since the cost is about plant and animal life, and the capability of federal funds for Solar One out of the
$14,000 per kilowatt, as opposed to about local water supplies to support a plant of budget, although Congress restored the
$1,200 per kw from a state-of-the-art coal or this kind. funds later that year. Then in late 1978,
nuclear plant. "It's a research project. It's difficulties arose between the Department
not intended to be economically of Energy and McDonnell Douglas over the
competitive," he adds. contract for the integration work. And at
However, with mass production of the this writing, Congress once again is
components, the price could drop into the " or Solar One, the specific plan is considering rescinding Department of
$2,000 to $3,000 per kilowatt range, Reeves
says. Use of "repowering" a solar facility' by
combining it with other power generation
f • for water in boiler tubes to be
heated by sunlight reflected from
the heliostat& The diameter of the boiler
Energy funds for Solar One.
However, the project has remained on
schedule in recent months and officials are
at the same site when the sun goes down will be 23 feet and the tube pannels on it confident it will stay at the $139.5 million
could drop the price to as low as $1,500 per will be 45 feet long, with each containing price. The capita! cost contributed by the
kilowatt. "It doesn't seem insurmountable 70 half-inch diameter nickel alloy utility consortium is about $21.5 million,
to get that price down to where it is steel tubes. while the Department of Energy supplies
competitive," he says, noting that the costs "The technology we're using here is a the rest. When complete, the Department
of other forms of power will continue to once-through system, which means water of Energy will own the solar portion and
rise. Sandia Corporation studies show the comes in the bottom and steam goes out the non-solar portion will be jointly owned
costs of solar power reaching a cross-over the top," says Reeves. "It's a little more by Edison (80 percent) and the Los Angeles
point with coal between 1985 and 1987, difficult to control than some other kinds Department of Water and Power (20
Reeves added. of boiler concepts, but we have plants percent).
SUN
S
ite clearance started last
September and sloped the ground
slightly north toward the nearby
Mojave River. First construction began in
January; the heliostats' concrete
foundations started being installed in
March. The visitors' center, located about a
mile south of the plant, should open in
mid-July. (Visitors won't be allowed on the
site itself for safety and security reasons.)
Construction of the receiver tower
should begin in late summer or early fall
and the heliostats will start appearing in
late fall. At the peak of construction
between next January and June, there will
be as many as 300 full-time workers on the
site, according to Terr}' Earl, field officer
and administrator at the project site.
Obviously, the situation for many is
temporary, since Solar One will employ
only 35 people once operations start. But
Earl says morale is high. "There's a lot of
excitement and optimistic feelings about
what we're doing here, but at the same
time, I have to admit that we're a little bit
reserved because it is a first-time thing and
the government's putting up a lot of
money. Obviously, the thing's not near as
efficient as a gas turbine plant, a coal plant
or even a hydroelectric plant. In other
words, it seems like we're spending a lot of
money to get a little, but if we learn
something, make some big leaps forward,
it's going to be well worthwhile. Sure, it's a
big initial cost, but then all you have is
operating and maintenance costs. Our fuel
has gone up well over 1000 percent over
the last few years."

7 ™ he plant design calls for full output


of 10 megawatts for four hours on
the worst solar day (December 21)
and approximately eight hours on the best
solar day Qune 21). With an annual rainfall
average of 3.7 inches at Barstow, clouds
should not be a major problem.
Those associated with Solar One avoid
long-term speculation as to just how
successful the project will be. But they
obviously believe it will mark a turning
point in power generation for this
country. ¥j]

The cholla above symbolizes


each of Solar One's 1,818
man-made mirrors reaching
out to the sun for energy.
Wings For More Than Flying
by Susan Durr Nix
slight breeze in flight and a heavy wind

I
f bats were beautiful, bat apologists accommodating as to fly right in. Instead,
would have an easy time convincing the bat uses its flexible wing tip just like a keeps them from foraging altogether. The
us that these animals should be left baseball mitt to scoop up the insect. A sudden appearance of these bats in the
to their upside-down devices. But beauty is quick transfer from wing to pocket holds middle of the desert, twenty or more miles
not the perogative of all animals, especially the insect until the bat is ready to eat. from the nearest rock)' outcrop, tree or
of web-winged, smelly, chittering, High-speed photography revealed this building, has prompted speculation that
beady-eyed, erratic creatures of the night. A behavior which is otherwise too fast to see. they may roost in kangaroo rat or other
bat's skin, particularly his wing membrane, During birth, the pocket plays a different rodent burrows. Such a hole would
is not pretty. Fortunately for bats, there is role. Most species of bats produce one provide necessary protection from the
in nature no absolute correlation between young a year; the pygmy canyon bat bears drying heat.
beauty and function: that same naked wing two each June. If ever there was a clear Heat is also a problem in flight. A
is an extraordinary machine — a case of laboring under a disadvantage, it's foraging bat, maneuvering swiftly to catch
combination catcher's mitt, blanket, air the thought of an upside-down bat giving insects, raises his body temperature and in
conditioner, swim fin, obstetrical birth. But actually, the position she chooses a hot climate this can be critical. Once
instrument and efficient tool for flight again the wings come to the rescue by
unique among mammals. providing a large surface to radiate heat
The pygmy canyon bat or Western from the body back into the air.
pipistrelle (Pipistrellushesperus) of the A bat locates his prey not with his
Southwestern desert is so small it looks as eyesight, which is rather poor, but by
if it might be a mouse with wings, but it is means of echolocation. Twenty to thirty
not a rodent. At elevations below 5,000 feet high frequency cries are uttered per
where creosote bush dominates the second by a foraging bat which is why he
landscape, this is one of the most common flies with his mouth open. The sound
bats. It is the smallest in North America, waves bounce off solid objects and travel
with a wingspan of barely six inches and a back to the bat's ears where the faint echos
body about two inches long. Like most are analyzed. This analysis is sophisticated
desert creatures he is light colored, but he enough to differentiate between the
is easily recognized by his contrastingly texture, wing beat frequency, flight pattern
dark wings and ears. and speed of a tasty insect and one that is
Curiously, bats are not related to birds disagreeable. Although it is theoretically
even though they both fly. They do have in KAREN SAUSMAN
possible for fine strands of hair to absorb
common that their very different ancestors his echolocating cries so he isn't aware
were too heavy to fly; however, the — hanging by her thumbs — is quite there is a hazard ahead, hair itself is not a
evolutionary solutions to this problem practical. The babies are caught in the bat-attractor. This fear, coupled with the
were not at all alike. Birds attained the pocket as they emerge from the birth canal, dread of rabies, accounts for most negative
requisite lightness with hollow bones, the and it's then up to them to crawl up the reactions to bats.
loss of some or all of their teeth and mother's body and start nursing. For the Rabies is a serous disease and bats do
through the fusion of hand bones into a next week or two, the mother bat's wings carry it, but the pygmy bat needn't cause
rigid support for feathers. Bats needed double as a blanket, gently enfolding her undue anxiety. He has such small teeth and
teeth to eat insects and flexible hands for young and keeping them warm. The babies weak jaws that his bite probably wouldn't
wing support, hence these developed at cling to her even during foraging flights even break the skin of a human being.
the expense of the leg bones which are so until they are old enough to be left on their Prolonged contact with a bat's waste
short and slender that, with the single own between feedings. products can transmit the disease, but the
exception of the vampire bat, they can't Our image of millions of bats roosting habits of this species make such
support body weight. Consequently bats overwintering together on the ceilings of contact unlikely. Bats seem to be the only
must hang by their toes or wedge caves is typical of colonial species that animals able to survive rabies, which
themselves sideways into small crevices hibernate. The canyon bat is not a social answers the question, "If a bat is infected,
that support the body. The wing bones are animal — in fact for a bat, he's a loner, why doesn't the disease kill off the
also slender and light, while the rubbery particularly in winter when he enters a whole colony?"
wing itself is so thin the muscles and torpid period akin to hibernation. At this In the desert, snakes, owls and perhaps
circulation are visible. time, when his metabolism slows and he is other raptors prey on canyon bats. The bats
Another dramatic difference between at rest, the bat's wings insulate him from themselves prey on enormous numbers of
the two animals is that a bat's wing, unlike a the cold. Wing muscles draw the insects. Their help is essential in keeping
bird's, is attached along the entire length of membrane into puckers against his body, insect populations in check and in
the body, including part of and sometimes creating a cocoon to conserve warmth and maintaining the balance of nature. There
all of the tail. When the tail is fully joined, moisture. are no bats on exhibit at this time at the
as it is in the pygmy canyon bat, and is held "Fledermaus," the German word for bat, Living Desert Reserve, but the story of this
forward, a useful little pocket is formed. translates as "flitter mouse," a particularly interesting and helpful little animal is
Insect-eating bats literally catch their prey apt description of the weak and erratic included in the educational programs the
on the wing. Although they fly with mouth flight of pygmy canyon bats. They aren't Reserve offers to school children
agape, it is the rare gnat or moth who is so strong enough to combat more than a throughout Southern California.

ATTr.TKT 1080
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'MU
Hamburger
by Stella Hughes

R ecently, while browsing through a


real slickie food magazine that was
tossing kudos or panning various
eateries in a large city, I read, "Fare ranges
from the simple appetizer or lowly
From a humble family food noted for its
economy, hamburger has blossomed into a
great American tradition, even more
American than apple pie. I hate statistics
and I don't intend giving a bunch of them
I've nothing against a merchant
displaying his wares to advantage, but
these red lights do seem to smack of false
advertising. But then, I guess, so do
lipstick, rouge and eye makeup.
hamburger to a full-course meal." Well, now, but maybe a few tips on buying Seasonings for hamburgers are so
there may be plenty of simple appetizers, hamburger wouldn't be out of place for numerous I'll only list a few you may not
but there's no such thing as a lowly those readers who may not have given have thought marriageable material for
hamburger. Hamburgers are always super hamburger much thought, except just hamburgers. How about a few snipped
fare. If not, it's the cook's fault, not the liking em. chives along with the usual seasonings?
hamburger's. Ground beef bearing the label of Have you ever tried a little dry mustard
There's no other meat that has so much hamburger can by law contain up to 30 with a pinch of oregano or parsley?
going for it as hamburger. It can be used in percent fat.This fat consists of the natural Worcestershire sauce with a tablespoon of
a hundred different ways, from a fat attached to the beef, plus "loose" fat. horseradish and some crumpled blue
quick-an'-easy cookout to company dinner. Which means suet or what-have-you. cheese? Why not try a few drops of liquid
In fact, hamburger can put on just about Ground beef(not hamburger) may also "smoke" on barbecued hamburgers? Then
any face a good cook wants it to. It can be contain 30 percent fat, but the fat must be there's sesame seed, chopped ripe olives,
served solo on a bun, or you can mingle it only that which is attached to the meat. In chopped dill or pickle relish, chili powder,
richly with vegetables, cheeses, sauces and other words, it had to form right along with and a bunch of spices such as nutmeg,
spices. Change its shape and you change its the lean while the steer was growing up. sage, thyme, basil, allspice and curry
name. It's a Sloppy Joe! It's a meatball! It's a
No other fat may be added to reach this 30 powder. Start with a small amount and
meat loaf! percent level. Thus the fat content in increase until you find the just-right flavor
ground beef is usually less than 30 percent level. But for heavens sake, don't try too
fat. Viva la difference! many all at once!
Next comes ground chuck (meat from Betty Crocker's "Hamburger Cookbook"
the shoulder) wherein the fat level is gives about the most mouth-watering array
MUSEUM
usually 20 percent. This type is best suited of recipes for hamburgers you'll find
OF THE for most ground beef dishes. anywhere. You should try Taco Burgers by
HORSE, INC. Ground round (steak) is the leanest of using a package of taco seasoning mix, and
all ground beef and perfect for calorie topping the burger with a thick slice of ripe
watchers. Ground round usually contains avacado. Chili Cheese Burgers call for
about 15 percent fat. chopped green chilis and cheddar cheese,
Which one is for you? It all depends on along with the usual chopped onion, garlic
the recipe and your budget. For the juiciest salt and pepper, and Supreme Burgers use
hamburger, use ground beef or ground one envelope of onion soup mix, plus one
chuck. The amount of fat in both allows the cup dairy sour cream and a half cup of dry
burgers to baste themselves. The leaner bread crumbs. Crunchy TeriyakiBurgers
the burger, the less juicy it will be. But require some soy sauce, a half cup of
remember, the more fat, the more chopped water chestnuts and a pinch
shrinkage. of ginger.
And then there's the cost. The more fat, When preparing hamburger patties
the lower the cost. Ground chuck and always handle the meat with gentle loving
ground round are more expensive care. Too much handling gives burgers a
Six exhibit halls dedicated to the because of all the other (and more costly) compact texture. When broiling or
horse. From early Greek to modern uses the butcher has for them. But no panfrying, gently turn meat once during
times. matter which label you buy, all ground cooking, and never, never, press burgers
beef should have a nice bright color. And with a spatula so all the lovely, nutritious
ORIGINAL REMINGTONS • RUS- not from red fluorescent lights hidden in juices pour out onto the coals.
SELL BRONZE • ONE OF FOUR the meat showcase, either! You think no
KACHINA CHESS SETS IN THE | butcher could be so unscrupulous? The
WORLD • WESTERN TREASURES heck they can't. I know of two meat
VALUED AT $1,000,000 markets in nearby towns, one with red Cheese and Beef Burgers
Fine Indian crafts for sale in gift fluorescent lights inside the meat case Salt to taste
shop. while the other has red fluorescent lights 1/4 cup catsup
Just 60 miles south of Tucson on S-83 in in the ceiling above the meat counter. It 1 tablespoon finely chopped onion
historic Patagonia, Arizona reminds me of the old saying: "Turn on the 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
Open daily 9 to 5. Your host: Anne Stradling blue light, Sam, the man vants a blue suit." 1 cup (4 ounces) shredded sharp process

50 AUGUST, 1980
American cheese
1 pound ground beef
4 hamburger buns, split and toasted
Combine catsup, onion and mustard. Add
WEST
cheese and ground beef; mix well. Shape
into 4 patties. Grill over medium heat
MAPS
about 6 minutes. Turn and grill 4 to 6
minutes more, or until of desired 'IT COSTS TO GET LOST!'
doneness. Serve in buns.

A sauce for hamburgers that is a real taste Don't use a road map.
treat can be made by combining:
2 tablespoons margarine or butter HLJseaTOPOmap.
2 tablespoons chopped onion Let us help you find
2 tablespoons chopped green pepper your heart's desire: Gold,
1/2 cup catsup Ghost Towns, Hiking Trails
2 teaspoons cornstarch Travel by-ways or Wildlife.
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/2 cup beer Just $1.75 plus $1.30 shipping
1 teaspoon salt per order.
Melt margarine or butter; add onion and
green pepper and cook until tender. (Calif, residents add 6% sales tax)
Combine catsup, cornstarch and We have 29,000 USGS Quads
Worcestershire. Stir into vegetables. Add of all western states
beer. Heat and stir just to boiling. This
sauce can be used on barbecuing WESTWIDEMAPSCO.
hamburgers during cooking or spooned Topographic Maps
over hamburgers, hot, after placing 114 West 3rd Street
on bun. Los Angeles, CA 90013
Call WalkerS. Clute Picture Yourself in One of
(213)624-2679 Our New, Colorful and Stylish
Reuben Ground Beef
Sandwich
"ON YOUR DESK
TOMORROW MORNING"
CLAM-MAN
1-1/2 pounds ground beef
1-1/2 teaspoons salt T-Shirts!
1/8 teaspoon pepper (Great gift item, too!)
16 slices rye bread with caraway seed
1 cup Thousand Island dressing
8 slices ( 1 ounce each) Swiss cheese
ft Jeep Now available for men and women.
Man's shirt is heavyweight all-cotton with
1 cup sauerkraut "our only business" "Happiness is a Warm Clam" pocket. Colors
Combine ground beef, salt and pepper anc Lt. Blue, Tan, Orange, White. Sizes: Small
divide into 8 equal portions. Toast slices SALES-LEASING Medium, Large, X-Large. CLAM MAN pictun
of bread on both sides. Spread each slice PARTS-SERVICE on back. $6.95 ea. postpaid. Woman's shirt is
with 1 tablespoon dressing. Arrange 8 We Service What We Sell 50% cotton, 50% polyester. Colors: Lt. Blue
Tan. Sizes: Small, Medium, Large. CLAM MAN
slices, dressing side up, on baking sheet
design on front. $6.95 ea.
and top each with 1 slice Swiss cheese and JOHNSON'S 4WD CENTER
2 tablespoons sauerkraut. Distribute a
7590 Cypress Ave. at Van Buren
Order Yours Today!
portion of meat on top of kraut on each Riverside, Calif. 92503 (714) 785-1330
sandwich, pressing to make an even layer • Yes, rush my CLAM
and covering edges. Place on rack of
broiler pan and broil 3 inches from the "Two Grey Hills"
MAN T-Shirt order as J
heat until browned, approximately 8 follows:
minutes. Top with remaining bread slices, Man's
dressing side down. Serve at once. Yield; £ SIZE/COLOR(S)
sandwiches.
Woman's
SIZE/COLOR(S)
CROCHETED INDIAN
Total shirts ordered
RUG DESIGN
Tomato Cucumber Relish Amount enclosed ($6.95 ea.) $
New and simple technique in basic double crochet creates Calif, residents add 6% sales tax.
An easy relish can be made to serve on this beautiful 12" x 24" reversible fringed throw.
hamburger by cornbining: Kit includes step-by-step instructions, pattern diagram
1/4 cup vinegar and yarn. (Hook not included) Prompt shipment direct or Name
as gift from you.
1/4 cup water
Address
2 tablespoons sugar Kit No. 118-7C-3 $12.95
1 teaspoon salt Size "H" crochet hook 1.49
City/State Zip.
Pattern Only 3.50
lack pepper to taste Other brochures . 50
Add 1 medium tomato chopped Send order and payment to:
1/2 unpeeled cucumber thinly sliced WOVEN STITCH CROCHET 5 CLAM MAN T-Shirts
1 medium onion chopped P.O. BOX 212 P.O. Box 1318
Cover. Chill one hour or more. Drain wel ALAM0G0RD0, NEW MEXICO 88310 Palm Desert, CA 92261

DESERT 51
. - - • -

SUCCESSFUL COIN HUNTING by Charles I.. THE PEOPLE'S GUIDE TO MEXICO by Carl
Gold Garrell. A complete guide on where to search,
metal detector selection and use, digging tools
Franz. The I.A Times says: "For valuable help as
well as entertainment ... lets you know what a
WHERE TO FIND GOLD IN THE MOTHER and accessories, how to dig, and the care and visit to Mexico is really like.' Tips on personal
LODE by James Klein. The author is a partner in handling of coins. Newly revised. Ph., 231 preparation, your car, driving in Mexico, public
K & M Mining Explorations Company, which is pgs.,$5-95. transportation, hitching, hotels, rentals, camp-
now developing three gold mining claims. In- ing, economizing, restaurants, foods, markets,
cludes a history of the gold rush, geology of the stores, cooking, alcohol, services, health, tourists
Mother Lode, where to find gold, county by and the law, speaking Spanish, customs,
county, and how to find gold, including informa-
tion on equipment, panning, dredging, and how
Baja California machismo, buying things, red tape, maps, in-
formation, and personal anecdotes! Pb., 6" x 9".
to stake a claim. Ph., 121 pgs., $4.95. A FIELD GUIDE TO THE COMMON AND IN- 579 pgs., $9.00.
TERESTING PLANTS OF BAJA CALIFORNIA
WHERE TO FIND GOLD IN THE DESERT by by Jeanette Coyle and Norman Roberts. Over
James Klein. Where to find gold in the 250 plants are described with 189 color photos.
Rosamond-Mohave area, the El Paso Mountains,
Randshurg, and Barstow areas, and main" more.
Includes past and present uses of the plants by
aborigines and people in Baja today. Scientific,
Cookery
Ph., 112 pgs., $4.95. Spanish, and common names are given. Excel- CHUCK WAGON COOKIN' by Stella Hughes.
lent reference and highly recommended. 224 (Desert Magazine Bookstore's No. 1 best-seller.)
pgs., Ph., $8.50. Recipes collected straight from the source —
HIGH MOUNTAINS AND DEEP VALLEYS by cowboy cooks. Contains Mexican recipes, in-
Lew and Ginny Clark, with photographs by structions for deep-pit barbecue, the art of using
Edwin C. Rockwell. A history and general guide THE CAVE PAINTINGS OF BAJA CALIFOR- Dutch ovens for cooking, and everything from
book to the vast lands east of the High Sierra, NIA, The Great Murals of an Unknown People sourdough biscuits to Son-of-Gun stew. Ph., 170
south of the Comstock Lode, north of the Mojave by Harry Crosby. A sequel to his THE KING'S pgs., $8.50
Desert, and west of Death Valley, by oldtimers HIGHWAY IN BAJA CALIFORNIA, the author pre-
who know the area. Ph., 192 pgs., 250 photo- sents a tantalizing disclosure of a sweeping
graphs, and many maps. $6.95. panorama of great murals executed by an un- SOURDOUGH COOKBOOK by Don and Myr-
known people in a land which has barely been tle Holm. Flow to make sourdough starter and
penetrated by man. Beautifully illustrated with many dozens of sourdough recipes, plus amus-
THE GOLD HEX fti' Ken Marquiss. Strange gold ing anecdotes by the authors of the popular OLD
tales such as "Jim Dollar's Jimdandy," "Tybo color reproductions of cave paintings and
sketches of figures which appear on cave walls FASHIONED DUTCH OVEN COOKBOOK. A
Three Shot," "Buzztail Loot" and "The Lost new experience in culinary adventures. Ph., 136
Droopy Angel' Lode." Pb., illus. with photos and in four different mountain ranges. Hb., large
format, 174 pgs., $18.50. slick pgs., illus., $4.95.
maps, 146 pgs., $3.50.

LET'S GO PROSPECTING by Edward Arthur. DE GRAZIA AND MEXICAN COOKERY. Illus.


THE KING'S HIGHWAY IN BAJA CALIFOR- by l)e Grazia, written by Rita Davenport. In her
Learn about minerals and their characteristics, NIA by Harry Crosby. A fascinating recounting preface, Rita Davenport says, "Mexican foods —
prospecting, descriptions of industrial minerals of a trip by muleback over the rugged spine of like Mexico itself — can be a fiesta of colors. So,
of California, metallic ores, as well as mineral the Baja California peninsula, along an historic enjoy our rainbow of recipes and the delightful
maps of California. Ph., 80 pgs., $6.50. path created by the first Spanish padres. It tells De Grazia artwork that follows." Aptly stated, as
of the life and death of the old Jesuit missions. It this is a charming cookbook. Ph., spiral-bound,
GOLD RUSH COUNTRY/?)' the Editors of Sun- describes how the first European settlers were 63 pgs., $4.95.
set Books. A revised and updated practical guide lured into the mountains along the same road.
to California's Mother Lode country. Divided Magnificent photographs, many in color, high- CALIFORNIA FAVORITES COOKBOOK com-
into geographical areas for easy weekend trips, light the book. Hb.. 182 pgs., large format, piled by At Fischer and Mildred Fischer. This
the 8" x 11" heavy paperback new edition is $14.50. delicious collection of over 400 California rec-
illustrated with photos and maps. Special fea- ipes includes things like Gold Camp Rabbit, Old
tures and anecdotes of historical and present- OFFBEAT BAJA by Jim Hunter. A guide to hid- West Beef Stew, Indio Date-Nut Bread, Borrego
day activities. Ph., 96 pgs., $3.95. den bays and beaches, islands, and missions, Springs Buttermilk Bread, and Sea World Ciop-
with dirt road classifications rated "1 " (easy) to pino. Book is divided into five chapters; early
"10" (practically impossible), what to expect in California, California fruits, California products,
GOLD RUSHES AND MINING CAMPS OF
terms of gas, water, shelter, etc. Photographs, sea foods, and wine cooking. Well indexed. Pb.,
THE EARLY AMERICAN WEST by Vardis Fisher
maps, bibliography. Ph., 156 pgs., $5.95. spiral-bound, 142 pgs., $3.00.
and Opal lxiurel Holmes. 300 pictures and 466
pages, divided into "The Gold Rushes," "Life in
the Camps," "Crime and Justice," and "Special THE BAJA BOOK II by Tom Miller and Elmar
Characters and Situations." Based "as far as pos- Baxter. Highly recommended by Jack Smith, au-
sible, on primary sources, to give the general thor of GOD AND MR. GOMEZ; Jerry Hulse,
reader a broad picture of the American West. Travel Editor of the LA Times; Frank Riley ofios TRACKING DOWN OREGON by Ralph Fried-
Hb., $22.95. Angeles Magazine; Stan Delaplane, syndicated man. An excellent general history of California's
travel writer; and Don Sherman, Car and Driver northern neighbor, which has as much desert of
GOLD LOCATIONS OF THE U.S. by Jack Magazine, among others. Includes 50 detailed a different description plus a lot of sea coast and
Black. Includes Alaska with streams, lodes and mile-by-mile road maps and NASA Baja exciting history. Many photographs of famous
placers, production figures, type of gold, lo- Spacemaps, with more than 100 illus. Ph., 180 people and places and good directions how to
cations "for the serious amateur who hopes to pgs., $8.95. get there. Pb., 307 pgs., more than 100 photo-
find enough gold to make a living." Ph., 174 pgs., graphs, $6.95.
$6.95.
THE OREGON DESERT by E. R. Jackman and
HOW AND WHERE TO PAN GOLD by Wayne Mexico R. A. Long. Filled with both facts and anecdotes,
Winters. Gold placers, how to pan, the "wet" MEXICO'S WEST COAST BEACHES by Al and this is the only book on the little but fascinating
processes, amalgamation, the "hows of claim Mildred Fischer is an up-to-date guide covering deserts, of Oregon. Anyone who reads it will
staking, metal detectors, camping tips for pros- the El Golfo de Santa Clara to the end of the want to visit the areas — or wish they could. Hb.,
pectors and miners, and location maps. Ph., 72 highway at Manzanillo. Excellent reference for illus., 407 pgs., $9.95.
pgs., $3.00. the out-of-the-way beaches, in addition to the THE BLACK ROCK DESERT by Sessions S.
popular resorts such as Mazatlan and Puerto Wheeler. One of Nevada's least-known and most
GOLD FEVER/))' Helen E. Wilson. History of the Vallarta. Although traveling by motorhome, the scenic historical desert areas is described by the
gold mining days in Jarbidge, Nevada, through Fischers also give suggestions for air. auto, ferry, state's leading professional historian and author.
the lives of persons then living. Illustrated with and train travel as well. Pb., well illustrated, 138 Black Rock is pan of the huge Great Desen
many old photographs. Ph., 129 pgs., $5.00. pgs., $3.00. Basin and was the setting for Indian battles and

52 AUGUST, 1980
several tragic incidents during the 1849 Califor- INDIAN BASKET WEAVING, How to Weave MINES OF JULIAN by Helen Ellsberg Fuel.-, MK.1
nia Gold Rush. Pb., 186 pgs., many black and Porno, Yurok, Pima ami Navajo Baskets, by lore of the bygone mining days when Julian, in
white photographs, sketches, and maps, $595. Sandra Come Newman. Besides explicit infor- Southern California, is reported to have pro-
mation on gathering and preparation of natural duced some seven million dollars of bullion.
materials and weaving techniques, the author Pb.,well illus., $2.50.
BACK ROADS OF CALIFORNIA by Karl Thol-
lancler and the Editors of Sunset Books. Early brings out the meaning of the craft to the par-
takers of these traditions. Pb., lavishly illus., 91
stagecoach routes, missions, remote canyons,
old prospector cabins, mines, cemeteries, etc., pgs., $4.95. Hiking
are visited as the author travels and sketches
California's back roads. Through maps and BACKPACKING GUIDE TO SAN DIEGO
notes, the traveler is invited to get off the free- COUNTY by Skip Ruland. An informative, no-
ways and see the rural and country lanes
throughout the state. Ph., large format, unusually
Mining nonsense primer to day hiking and extended
several-day trips into the Southern California
beautiful illustrations, 207 pgs., $6.95. FROM THIS MOUNTAIN, CERRO GORDO by mountain and desert back country, covering
Robert C Likes and Glenn R. Day. The height of more territory than the title suggests. Also this
THE NEVADA DESERT by Sessions S. Wheeler. the boom, the decline, the entire history of this little book contains emergency information use-
Provides information on Nevada's state parks, mining outpost of Cerro Gordo, is told in detail. ful wherever you hike or travel in the back
historical monuments, recreational areas and Pb., illus., $3.95. country. Pb., 80 pgs., several maps and sketches,
suggestions for safe, comfortable travel in the $2.95. '
remote sections of western America. Pb., illus.,
168 pgs., $2.95. TELLURIDE "FROM PICK TO POWDER" by BACK COUNTRY ROADS AND TRAILS, SAN
Richard I., and Suzanne Fetter. The Fetters have DIEGO COUNTY by Jerry Schad. Concentrating
THE COMPLEAT NEVADA TRAVELER by written about one of the wildest mining towns of on the mountains and desert of So. California's
David W. Toll. Not the usual guidebook, the Colorado, one that had its own law and was the San Diego Count)', there are trips to the Palomar
author has divided the state into four regions: prototype for hundreds of Hollywood movies. Mountains, the Julian area, the Cuyamaca Moun-
mining country, Big Bonanza country, cattle The people that made up Tellurides day in- tains, the l.aguna Mountains, and the Anza-
country, and Mormon country, with special in- cluded Butch Cassidy and his Hole in the Wall Borrego Desert. Trips reachable by car, bicycle
formation on big game hunting, rock-hounding, gang who found the bank in Telluride too rich to or on foot. Ph., 96 pgs., illus. with maps and
the Nevada state park system, maps, etc. Toll pass up. Big Billy, the kindhearted madam, and photographs, $4.95.
includes the humorous sidelights of Nevada's L. L. Nunn, the eccentric genius who used alter-
history and its scandalous events, all in a light, nating current for the generation of power for DESERT HIKING GUIDE by John A. Fleming. A
readable style. Ph., 278 pgs., $3.50. the first time anywhere. With black and white clearly-presented guide, describing 25 day hikes
photographs, maps, reprints from Tellurides in the Coachella Valley of Southern California,
DESERT VACATIONS ARE FUN by Robert newspaper, and their last chapter, "A Walking from Palm Springs to the Salton Sea. There is a
Tour of Telluride," the Fetters have written an map for location of each hike, total mileage per
Needham. A complete, factual and interesting informative and highly readable history. Pb., 194
handbook for the desert camper. Valuable in- pgs., 9" x 6", $4.95. hike given, round trip time, and elevation gain.
formation on weather conditions, desert vehi- Pb., 8-1/2" x 5-1/2", 28 pgs., $2.50.
cles, campsites, food and water requirements, in
addition to desert wildlife, mines, ghost towns,
and desert hobbies. Pb., illus., 10 maps, 134
pgs., $3.95. Desert Magazine Book Shop
HOT SPRINGS AND POOLS OF THE Order Form
SOUTHWEST by Jayson loam. A delightful di-
rector)' compiled by the Aqua Thermal Associa- Name
tion, with detailed descriptions, photographs
maps, history of hot springs and mineral waters Address
in California, Nevada, Arizona, and New Mexico. Citv _State_ _Zip.
Complete, well-indexed and researched. Pb., I enclose $_ _(check, money order or charge)
9-1/8" x 7-3/8", 192 pgs., $7.95.
MY CHARGE: • • VISA'
Indian Lore
Credit Card No.
SPEAKING OF INDIANS by Bemice Johnston.
An authority on the Indians of the Southwest, the
author has presented a concise, well-written Expiration Date MasterCharge
book on the customs, history, crafts, ceremonies Interbank No.
and what the American Indian has contributed Month/Year
to the white man's civilization. A MUST for both
students and travelers touring the Indian coun- Signature
try. Heavy Pb., illus., $2.95.
(charge not valid unless signed)
AMERICAN INDIAN FOOD AND LORE by
Carolyn Neithammer. The original Indian plants
used for foods, medicinal purposes, shelter,
clothing, etc., are described in detail in this fas-
cinating book. Common and scientific names,
plus descriptions of each plant and unusual
recipes. Large format, profusely illus., 191 pgs.,
$5.95.
INDIAN JEWELRY MAKING, Vol. I, by Oscar
T. Branson. This book is intended as a step-by-
step how-to-do-it method of making jewelry. An
intriguing all-color publication that is an asset to California residents add 6% sales tax
the consumer as well as to the producer of Postage/handling
Indian jewelry today because it provides the
basic knowledge of how jewelry is made so one TOTAL
can judge if it is well made and basically good
design. Large format, Pb., $7.95. Ordering Information $1.50 postage per order, NOT each item.
Use the convenient order form. Print all information Normally, we ship within 48 hours of receiving your order.
POTTERY TREASURES, The Splendor of In the event of a delay exceeding two weeks, you will be
Southwest Indian Art, Photography by Jerry dearly.
Jacka; Text by Spencer Gill. A beautiful all four- On orders exceeding $20.00 United Parcel Service is used notified as to its cause.
color publication showing the intriguing de- requiring a deliver}' address and NOT a box number. California residents please add 6% sales tax. Prices are
signs of the masters of the Indian pottery makers All orders shipped in padded containers or cartons. Add subject to change and supplies Iimitd to available stock.
of the American Southwest. You will learn of
clays and colors and the traditional methods of Mail today to:
handforming, finishing, and firing. Large format Desert Magazine Book Shop P.O. Box 1318, Palm Desert, California 92261
$9.95.
DESERT 53
You THE
AEHNGPOST
can MAPS

now HOW TO PLACE YOUR


TRADING POST AD.
OLD S1ATE, RAILROAD, COUNTY MAPS. 70-110 years
old. All States. Stamp for Catalog. Northern Map, Dept.
DM, Dunnelion, FL 32630

order Mail your copy and first-insertion remittance


to: Trading Post, Desert Magazine, P.O. Box
1318, Palm Desert, Calif. 92261. Classified
GOLD & SILVER LOCATIONS On Big 2-Color Map.
Mountains rivers, creeks where gold & silver have been
found in the western United States. Two colors. Big 17"
X 22" size. Includes interesting historical facts. Send
$7.50 to: HenryJ. Morton Co., Dept, D, 6415 S.W. Canyon

article rates are 75* per word, $7.50 minimum per


insertion.
Deadline for Classified Ads is 10th of second
Ct., Portland, OR 97225
1916 TOPOGRAPHIC MAP, Rochester Mining District,
Nevada. 16"x20" limited quantity, $5.00 ppd. Gary

reprints month preceding cover date. Moore, P.O. Box 1429-D, Monrovia' CA 91016
Ads requesting response to a P.O. Box num-
ber will not be considered for publication MEMBERSHIPS

from
unless accompanied by the full street ad- TRAILERS & CAMPERS: Membership available for
dress and phone number of the advertiser. Panamint Springs Campground in beautiful Panamint
This information, for the publisher's records Valley, California. Write for Brochure to: L Vose, P.O.
only, is required by law. Box 245, River Pines, CA 95675

PROSPECTING
PROSPECTORS SUPPLIES, Books and information on
29 Palms gold area available at Mac Mahon's Rock

publication BOOKS AND MAGAZINES


S t u d i o , 6451 Adobe Rd., 29 Palms, CA 92277
V.isit our gift shop. Doolie Dowsing Rod — $8.00

DRYWASHERS! Gold concentrators! Guaranteed to re-


cover minerals, gold. A hobby that pays for itself. Write
BOOK COLLECTORS! Western Americana, Desert. Our to Nick's Nugget, P.O. Box 1081, Fontana, CA 92335
University Microfilms International, Specialty. First Edition, Out of Print. Rare & Unusual (714) 822-2846
in cooperation with publishers Books. Send $2.00 (refundable) To: Pamassus-In-The-
of this journal, offers a highly con- Redwoods Bookshop, 1995 Carson Woods Road, For-
venient Article Reprint Service. tuna, CA 95540 REAL ESTATE
Single articles or complete issues
can now be obtained in their 240 ACRE RANCH for sale; Essex, Calif. Ranch house,
original size (up to 8V2 x 11 inches). BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES barn, water well, completely fenced. Contact Robert
For more information please com- Gaskin. P.O. Box 7326, Riverside, CA 92513
plete and mail the coupon below. YOU CAN WRITE, publish, distribute and keep the prof-
Its on your how-to-do-it book as I am doing now. MISCELLANEOUS
Details $3.00. CBC. PO BOx 2591, Chula Vista, CA 92012
INCORPORATE in tax-free Nevada! Details Free. CANI-
ARTICLE EQUIPMENT DM, Box 2064, Carson City, NV 89701
PERSONAL TOURS arranged to your interests: Photog-
PRECISION LAPIDARY abrasive compounds for tum- raph}, geology, fishing, camping, hiking, climbing —
REPRINT bling, polishing and grinding. Send for free catalog &
price list. MDC Industries, 400 West Glenwood Ave., PA
Mt. Whitney, Death Valley, Bristlecones ... Brochure:
Mountain & Desert, Inc.', P.O. Box 2005, Ridgecrest,
19140. Dealer inquiries invited. CA 93555

SERVICE AUTOMATIC GOI.DPANNER. Pan for Gold the easy way.


From $395.00. Goldhound, 4078 Lincoln Blvd., Marina
EXTRA INCOME at home, no experience. Send
stamped, addressed envelope to: Mailco, 1739 W 247th
Del Rev, CA 90291 (213) 811-1152 St.. l.omita, CA 90717

University Microfilms FOODS And RECIPES SEEDS AND PLANTS


International SOURDOUGH FOR THE SOUL. Make yours. Recipes JOJOBA — 25 clean seeds, instructions, $1.50 prepaid.
too. Only $2.00 to P.B. Inc., Box G. Cima, CA 92323 Indian Trail Nursery, Star Rt. 2, Box 75, 29 Palms, CA
92277
DYES! I would like to know more about the
SAM ANDY & Mountain House Dehydrated and freeze
Article Reprint Service. Please send me full
details on how I can order.
dried foods for long shelf life, plus many self- TREASURE FINDERS
sufficiency items. Write for free listing. Valley Food
Reserve, P.O. Box 211, Scio, OR 97374
D Please include catalogue of available titles. INSTANT RICHES! Explore Ghost Towns. Find buried
DELICIOUS MAPLE ICE! Country recipes - attractive treasures, coins, relics, antiques & more. Goldak, the
booklet. Only $1.00! Moonridge Mountain Enterprises, finest "Metal & Treasure Locators since 1933- Send for
Name . Box M4-14H,Big Bear Lake, CA 92315 free catalog. Goldak Dept. D, 626 Sonora Ave., Glen-
dale, CA 91202
Institution/Company.
GEMS TREASURE — Locate quarter mile away with ultrasensi-
lives locator, brochure free. Research Products, Box
Department 13441, BUC, Tampa, FL 33611
SHAMROCK ROCK SHOP, 593 West La Cadena Dr., Riv-
erside, CA 92501 (714) 686-3956, Parallel to Riverside
Address Freeway. Come in & browse; jewelry mountings,
chains, supplies, minerals, slabs, rough material,
WESTERN ART
City _ . State _ -Zip- equipment, black lights, metal detectors, maps, rock &
bottle books. KINGSl.EY OSMUND HARRIS, Artist, See his beautiful
original realistic western paintings displayed in Desert
Magazine's Western Art gallery, 74-425 Hwy 111, Palm
Mail to: University Microfilms
MINING Desert, CA 92261
International INKLINATIONS — Whimsically intricate penned por-
OLD GOLD tk SILVER MINES Some with cabins, as low traits of desert creatures. Send stamped envelope for
Article Reprint Service as $1,500.00 for 20 acres claim. Panamint Valley Area. free brochure. Inklinations, P.O. Box 97, 1000 Palms,
300 North Zeeb Road Free list. Connolly, Box 67D, Trona, CA 93562 CA 922TS
Ann Arbor, Michigan 48106

54 AUGUST, 1980
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