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CHRISTMAS MARKETS
■ Christmas in Augsburg
Bavaria Tourism
C
onsidering that I’m not ancient Polish city of
much of a shopper, my Krakow, and the tem-
first experience of a tradi- perature was 20ºC
tional Christmas market below freezing.
came as a revelation. It was Yet more snow dust-
nearly 20 years ago in the ed Krakow’s many spires ■ Children with toffee apples in Lemgo German National Tourist Board
Leger Holidays
Bruges at Christmas
Rostock
market
■ Christmas in Liege
as darkness fell in mid afternoon, creating a although many of these are not traditional Jesus. This is the case at Nuremberg, one of
true Christmas card scene. I followed the and as far away as Japan, Canada and the the best markets, also home of gingerbread
crowds to the vast Market Square – said to USA. Germany and France both have about which is one of the favourite festive foods.
be the largest in Europe – and made straight 80 listings, with Austria having 29 and The market at Munich, held on the
for a stall selling hot mulled wine. Belgium 16. Marienplatz in front of the guildhall, is one
Everyone around me seemed happy and In Germany – as in Krakow, no doubt – of the most impressive with over 120 stalls.
soon I forgot about the cold as I wolfed this year’s markets will have an extra reason Many stalls still concentrate on traditional
down sausage and fried cheese, before buy- to celebrate. November marked 20 years toys and festive fare, although inevitably
ing some woollen slippers and wooden toys since the fall of the Berlin Wall and the end they have been infiltrated by modern gadg-
at bargain prices. I went away feeling warm of Communism in Europe, which led to the ets and clothing.
and also the warmth of humanity, and ever revival of many traditions including a festive Look for regional variations, such as a
since I try to visit a European Christmas Christmas. Glühwein (a warm mulled wine) Christmas pastry at Frankfurt’s Christmas
market far from the blandness and rip-off and eierpunsch (an alcoholic drink with market. Bethmännchen is made from marzi-
prices in Britain. eggs) can be found everywhere. pan with almonds and sugar, and young men
I’m not alone in wanting to flee these used to send it as a token of their love. If a
shores as Christmas approaches, despite the “Nearly one person in four is girl kept it they could remain hopeful – if
increasing number of festive markets in this planning a festive break” not, they had to look elsewhere.
country. According to research by Leger Cologne is another highly popular German
Holidays, nearly one person in four is plan- Christmas markets started around 1400 in market, being held near the immense cathe-
ning a festive break and a key reason is the German-speaking part of Europe, with dral which is one of the world’s largest. Many
wanting to escape the over-commercialisa- Dresden (1434) being one of the first and of the most charming traditional markets are
tion of Christmas. now attracting two million visitors a year. in smaller places, such as Trier, Mainz,
Krakow is actually a fairly unusual Opening of the markets in early December Koblenz, Kaiserslautern, Speyer and Worms
choice, as the most popular traditional mar- or late November coincides with the Advent – which call themselves the Romantic Cities
kets are in Germany. The website religious festival, and some are called of Germany. Historic Highlights of Germany,
Christmasmarkets.com offers information Christkindel Markt (Christ child market) a group of 14 cities, has four recommended
on over 400 markets in 22 countries, with a child playing the role of the boy routes taking in the markets.
the journey to Lille in northern France is with a huge Christmas tree and an
even faster at 80 minutes. Lille’s market is advent calendar.
one of the best in France, a highlight being
when Father Christmas descends an 80- ■ Traditional
metre-high belfry on December 19. Christmas tree
decorations
If you prefer to fly then there are more
countries to choose from, where you can
Many visitors gravitate towards larger combine a Christmas market with a histori-
cities as there is so much more to do, espe- cal city or even some skiing. Markets are
cially during the long evenings at the darkest held in most Austrian cities including
time of the year. Another reason some cities Vienna (a very cultural choice in the run-up
are very popular is ease of access from the to Christmas), Salzburg and Innsbruck.
UK , which is why Belgian and French mar- Vienna’s market is in front of City Hall,
kets come into their own. where children can create their own presents
Liege holds one of the oldest and largest at Santa’s Workshop, and dispatch them German National Tourist Board
from a special post office without the possi- Christmas market facts
bility of postal strikes! Musical programmes
with choirs and pastoral plays are performed
on the steps of Salzburg Cathedral, while in When to go
Innsbruck, a daily attraction at 5.30pm is the Christmas markets take place from late November or early December. Many
Turmbläser, a brass band which plays close just before Christmas but some continue until New Year’s Eve and even
Christmas songs from the city tower. into January.
Innsbruck’s main market is in the medieval
Old Town by the 14th century balcony Getting there