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Learn How to Drive Motorcycle

It is not recommended to mix different brands of oil. Each company puts different
chemicals and additives in their oil. Some oils will react negatively with other oils
causing them to brake down and reduce their life and effectiveness.

 Fill your fuel tank slowly and do not overfill. Leave plenty of air space for
fuel expansion.
 Do not rev the engine too high when it's cold. Allow your engine to run
slowly for several minutes so the oil reaches all the surfaces it needs to

 Shift your transmission to neutral before starting your motorcycle. This
prevents accidental movement, which could cause personal injury.
 Read the owner's manual before operating your motorcycle. Failure to do so
could result in injury to yourself and others.
 Motorcycling is an inherently dangerous activity that can result in serious
injury or death. We recommend that you seek proper training and equipment
before attempting this activity.

How to Shift Gears on a Motorcycle


Shift down through all the gears as you slow down or stop. Open the throttle a little
and let the clutch out at each gear in an effort to slow the bike down and lessen the
wear and tear on your brakes.


Stay in first gear while you're stopped so you can pull away quickly if you need to.


Make sure you've slowed down enough when shifting into a lower gear. If you're
moving too fast, the motorcycle will lurch and the rear wheel can skid.

Remember motorcycles pick up speed on a downgrade. Begin downshifting

smoothly and early.


Keep in mind the speed range for first gear on many motorcycles is extremely low.
In these cases, use the brakes so you can slow down enough to get into first.

Tips & Warnings

 It's almost impossible to see around a passenger when you're stopped at the
side of the road and you need to see behind you. Have the passenger help out
by leaning in the opposite direction so you can tell if there's any oncoming
 Downshift before you go into a turn. A sudden shift in power to the rear
wheel can cause it to lock up or spin.

How to start and change gears on a motorcycle.

Learn how to start, get your motorcycle into gear, and change gears. How to
up shift and down shift.

Locate the shifter on the left side of the motorcycle opposite to the back (foot)
brake. The clutch is the left handle, and the shifter is the left foot peg.
Be familiar with what gear you're in. To shift in to first gear hold down the clutch
and click one click down on your shifter. To shift into neutral shift a half click up.
The bike should be able to roll freely back and forth. 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear are
all consecutive clicks above neutral.
To start your bike, it must be in neutral. Turn your ignition clockwise to the start
position (my bike has a red circle to indicate starting position). If your bike is
electric start then you can press the electric start button on your left side. If you
have a kick start then there should be a kick level on the right side by your leg. DO
Now the engine should be turned over. To actually get your bike moving, hold
down the clutch and switch into first gear. Do not let go of the clutch. Instead,
slowly let the clutch out while you give the bike a small amount of gas. This takes
some practice, do not give it too much gas or you could pop a wheelie. Don't let the
clutch out to fast or the engine could die.
You should try to find where your bike engages. This is where the bike will start to
roll forward like when you’re in drive in a car and not pushing the accelerator.
When you find this give the engine a little more gas and let out the clutch
Your bike should be moving. Don't drive in first for too long quickly hold down
your clutch and switch into 2nd. Up and down shifting takes some practice. Shift
up when you reach about 5 thousand rpm (in a two stroke, in a four stroke it's half).
However you should be able to feel and hear the pressure when you need to up
shift. It’s like if your filling bottles of water; smaller bottles of water fill up quick
but must be exchange for larger bottles when there is too much pressure.
As much as you need to exchange a smaller bottle for a larger when there is too
much pressure. You need to exchange a larger bottle when there is not enough
pressure. If you don't down shift properly the engine could die. As you're reaching
a stop you need to down shift. do not down shift at high rpm because your back
wheels can lock up.
When you reach a stop you want to be either in neutral or in 1st with the clutch
held down. If you let go of the clutch stopped in 1st gear your engine will die.
Repeat steps 4 and 5 to get the bike moving again.
That's it. The hardest part is starting and stopping. When you're first starting out
practice starting and stopping over and over again until it becomes natural.

How to Brake Properly on a Motorcycle

Motorcycles have two brakes - the front operated by the right hand, the rear
operated by the right foot - and both are needed to stop effectively. Below
are some important guidelines for braking safely on a motorcycle.

Use both brakes each time you slow down or stop. If you use only the rear brake,
you may never learn how to use the front brake properly when you need it.


Squeeze the front brake and press down the rear brake smoothly, gradually
increasing pressure as needed. Jerking the front brake or hitting the rear brake hard
can cause the brakes to lock up, resulting in skids and control problems.


Apply both brakes simultaneously. Many riders believe the rear brake should be
applied first. On the contrary, the sooner you apply the front brake, the sooner you
slow down.


Complete your braking before entering a turn, when possible. If you need to brake
when turning, you can use the front, as well as the rear, brake, as long as the road
isn't very slippery and you apply the brakes gently - you've less traction available
for braking when you're leaning the bike.

Tips & Warnings

 Remember the front brake provides about three-quarters of your stopping

power. It's safe to use in quick stops when you apply it properly.
 Some motorcycles have combined braking, which applies both the front
brake and the rear brake when you use the rear brake pedal. Check your
owner's manual for a detailed explanation.
 Jamming the front brake hard on a slippery surface can be hazardous.
Squeeze the brake lever cautiously on wet or icy roads. And begin applying
the brakes sooner than you normally would.
 Motorcycling is an inherently dangerous activity that can result in serious
injury or death. We recommend that you seek proper training and equipment
before attempting this activity.
 Applying the rear brake first increases the chance of a skid and an accident.
Application of the brakes shifts the weight of the motorcycle forward,
making the rear of the machine light, decreasing grip at the rear and
increasing skid risk. The correct method is to apply the front brake first, and
after a short delay, the rear brake. This ensures that some of the weight has
settled back onto the back tire, thereby increasing the grip.
 Watch your front suspension when you apply front wheel brake - weight is
being shifted there. I use my rear brake first to settle the bike on a wet road
before squeezing the front. Get in an empty parking lot and practice.
 As you are slowing down use the rear brake progressively more for the last
10MPH. This will make the bike more stable.
 Many inexperienced bikers fall off when braking. Modern bikes have front
brakes that can stand the machine on its nose. Practice braking hard on an
empty road before you has to do a real emergency stop. You should be able
to momentarily lock the front.
 Locking up the rear brake in most cases causes the bike to go sideways. If
you unlock it, it may throw you off or else slide until you go down. Braking
on rubber gives much better traction than chrome on pavement.
 Stop the motorcycle by applying all the handlebar levers and foot pedals.
This includes the clutch on the left handlebar, the front brake on the right,
the gear lever on the left side and the rear brake on the right.

How to Choose a Motorcycle Helmet


Select helmets that fit snugly all the way around.


Find helmets with strong straps with two rings to fasten them. Snap fasteners can
unsnap in an accident.


Buy a helmet that's a bright color such as red, white, yellow or orange.


Consider a helmet made of a reflective material or one that has reflective tape on
the back and sides.

Purchase helmets that are free of defects such as cracks, loose padding, frayed
straps or exposed metal.


Look for the "Snell" approval sticker inside; the Snell Memorial Foundation puts
helmets through rigorous safety tests.

Tips & Warnings

 Always fasten your helmet firmly. A loose-fitting helmet is just as

dangerous as no helmet at all.

The padding inside a helmet will compress 10%-15% over time, so a new
helmet should fit snug. With the helmet on, hold it stationary and try to
move your head left and right. The helmet may be too big if you can insert
your fingers between your face and padding, during this maneuver.

Try on the helmet for a few minutes, if you can. After 5-10 minutes, peel the
helmet off and look at your forehead- okay, look in a mirror at your
forehead. If there's a red mark across there within a few minutes, chances are
you'll have a headache within 30 minutes of wear. Try a different size or
brand- not all helmets are shaped the same.

Wear the helmet for 30-45 minutes before buying; it will reveal any hidden
discomfort spots. Most stores will allow this.

While test fitting a new helmet, shake your head vigorously. If the helmet
lags behind your head motion, it doesn't fit properly.

How to Choose Eye Protection for Riding Your Motorcycle

Motorcyclists quickly discover that their eyes need protection from wind,
dust, dirt, rain, insects and debris thrown from vehicles ahead of them.

Understand that helmets with plastic face shields are best, because they protect
your entire face. But if your motorcycle has a windshield, you may have other
options, such as goggles.


Make sure your eye protection allows a clear view to either side, and that it's
shatter-proof and free of scratches.


Be sure the product allows enough room for eyeglasses or sunglasses to be worn
underneath it.

Tips & Warnings

 Fasten your eye protection tightly so it cannot be blown off.

 Make sure your face protection allows air to pass through so it won't fog.
 Tinted eye protection should not be worn at night.
 Eyeglasses and sunglasses are not made to protect riders, and they can blow
off when your head is turned. If you wear glasses, also use a face shield.
 Use jeweler's rouge lightly over scratched plastic lenses and they will take
the scratches off. Also, car polish (NOT car wax) will also help.

To operate a motorcycle safely, the operator must watch for and avoid hazards on
the road. A variety of objects commonly confronted on roadways, while
inconsequential to a car or truck, can cause a motorcycle to slide and crash. Loose
gravel, wet leaves, tire remnants and dead animals are all examples. By increasing
familiarity with common hazards and high risk areas where they occur and by
maximizing field of vision and attentiveness, motorcyclists can substantially
diminish the risk of accidents.

Maintain a safe following distance by remaining at least two seconds behind every
vehicle that you follow.

Survey the road constantly and plan escape routes in your mind.
Anticipate hazards such as small children, animals and approaching vehicles.
Increase lateral distance when approaching such objects.

Make mental notes of hazards confronted while driving or riding in vehicles other
than motorcycles so that you can anticipate and avoid them when later cycling on
the same road.

How do you learn to drive a motorcycle?

Start off by sitting on the motorcycle, and getting acquainted with all the controls.
Basics are:

Left Hand Lever is the clutch (In and out) Right Hand Lever is the Front Brake (In
and out) Right Handle Grip is the throttle (Twists) Left foot control is the shifter
(Up and down) Right foot control is the rear brake. (Down)

In order to operate the cycle, start by Starting the engine with the transmission in
Neutral! Always hold the clutch in while starting and let out slowly to ensure it’s
not in gear. Get used to the throttle response by revving it while sitting aboard the

Transmissions in bike work on a standard shift pattern which looks like this:

6 - Sometimes 5 4 3 2 N 1

Practice shifting into neutral before you attempt to stop a bike. With the engine off,
try engaging 2nd gear, and practicing getting into neutral. This can be
accomplished by pulling in the clutch trying to get to neutral, let out the clutch and
try to move the bike. If it rolls freely, you have found neutral.

When starting on a bike, you must hold the clutch in to the handle, and push down
on the shifter engaging first gear. Slowly let the clutch out to the friction point and
give a small amount of throttle. (I like to blip the throttle as the clutch is being
engaged) When the bike gets moving, and you are at a safe RPM to permit an up
shift, Cut the throttle, and pull in the clutch, then push the shifter up, engaging
second gear. Slowly let out the clutch, and roll on throttle once again. Continue
shifting up until you are at desired speed.

When it comes time to stop, using no throttle, pull in clutch, push down on the
shifter and go to the lower gear when safe, let off on clutch to let the engine brake
while braking with front lever, and rear pedal. Gear down all the way to 2nd. When
you get to second, pull in clutch and shift all the way down to first and slightly pull
back up on the shifter to engage neutral. This is usually considered shifting all the
way down and half up. Let clutch out slowly to ensure its in neutral, then shut the
bike off.


I don't think you can go wrong with a Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF)
approved riding course. They're generally not very expensive, and a lot of
dealerships (if you go that route) will take some or the entire price of the class off
of the cost of the bike.

Practical experience with the help of a trainer does wonders that just can't be
matched by reading something in a book or on the net (no offense intended to the
previous answerer).

How to change gear in a bike(my technique or tips 4 manual transmission in a

4 stroke bike-Assuming u know the basics)

Manual transmission depends on 2 factors....

1.Particular gear characteristic or engine sound...

2.Whether u need energy to pull yourself(prevent engine stalling)....

Lower gears have more energy and higher gears have more speed..

U r starting' from neutral-Gear 0

-kick or push start, change to first gear....

-after u pickup a little speed or the engine roars(factor 1)...change to second gear..

-if u have to go at higher speeds.. i.e. there is no traffic or blocks then switch to
3rd and fourth gear. Else move in 2nd gear. Because u need energy..

--High speed , no energy required to pull yourself=4th gear

--moderate speed ,a bit of energy is required(e.g. Straight road) =3rd gear

--slow speed, high energy is required(e.g. going UP) =2nd gear

--near stop or very very slow- first gear

however U can’t remember the gears while driving..

So making a habit will help u to drive a manual transmission vehicle like an auto
transmission vehicle...
U can’t afford to get confused---Which gear I’m in??? Right??

Identification of gears

1st and 2nd gear can easily be identified by factor 1....

There is a bit confusion between 3rd and 4th...

while moving' to higher gears (1st and 2nd)...the engine roars as I’ve previously
said.. i.e. u r in 2nd gear ..When the engine roars then change to 3rd gear...When
engine roars in 3rd gear change to 4th gear...

so Fast=Fourth gear

So if u have to go slow or require energy to move..(e.g.. going Up)

change to 2nd gear by continually shifting two gears and u believe u still

need energy then shift to first gear..(Near stop or slow moving traffic)..

3rd gear is a moderate one ... (e.g. straight roads)

Mind u-it doesn’t always mean u have to be in 1st or 2nd gear to go UP

if u r in 3r or 4th gear moving at high speed and then u encounter an UP,
no need to change to 2nd or 1st gear..coz u moving at high speed u already have
energy..But if u slows down then u have to change to 1st or 2nd gear
How to Survive on Your Motorcycle

You want to ride your motorcycle and live to tell the tale. This isn't an impossible
dream. You say you want to ride your motorcycle every day, on the highway, over
bridges, in the rain, through commuter traffic. You've heard the rules about
cushions of time, lane position, and escape routes, but those are just generalities.
Here are six specific tips to keep you alive every day.

Things you’ll need:

 A motorcycle
 A helmet
 Protective clothing
 A clear head unclouded by alcohol, etc.
 Knowledge gained in a motorcycle rider's safety course

On the freeway, do not rely on the emergency lane as an escape route. At highway
speed, the emergency lane is a false comfort. Don't assume you can flick your bike
into that empty lane next to yours to avoid a collision. Trash, dirt and other debris
can make for sketchy traction, but that is just the beginning. If you've had to make
an emergency maneuver to avoid a rear-end collision, or to avoid getting
sandwiched between two vehicles, it's very possible that your empty emergency
lane will suddenly be brimming with activity. The cars in front may try the same
maneuver, cutting you off. Or, in the worst case, there may be vehicles parked in
that lane. There may also be emergency or safety workers. The answer is to drive
more defensively, always remembering that you can stop much faster than either
the car in front of you, or more importantly, the car behind you.


Never split lanes or pass on a curve at faster than 15 miles an hour. You are
dancing through a lot of blind spots making this move. I don't recommend ever
making a pass or lane splitting if the freeway is curving. It's much better to match
speeds and stick in your lane until the road straightens, then make your move. Cars
can come together very fast in a curve and you don't want to be the meat in their


When riding in the wet, remember two rules. Leaning is not your friend. The wind
is not your friend. Stay upright and keep your profile low. When taking a curve or
turning, keep a light touch on the throttle and brakes. Slow down early before the
turn; try to take it as upright as possible, while lowering your center of gravity over
the gas tank. Try not to slow down through the curve, this will steal precious
traction. Before accelerating, wait until the road straightens back out and you are
100% upright. Accelerate gently. It can also be important to seek shelter from the
wind, especially on a curving freeway or bridge. Ride next to vans, large trucks
etc. to block the wind, but do not get trapped in a blind spot. In the wet and spray
this is especially important. Buy gloves that include a rubber strip along the left
index finger to wipe water and grime from your face shield. Always keep your
profile low to avoid swerving in gusty winds.


Never speed past vehicles coming together on multiple merging lanes. It is too
likely that another guy in a mustang has the same idea. In the final shuffle for that
lane you will lose and you can easily find yourself against the guard rail. Blend in
with traffic, make the merge and once all lanes have come together, look for your
opportunity to pass.


Drive defensively in the carpool lane. Rush hour is in full bloom but you've got
clear road ahead - one of the glories of commuting on a motorcycle. However,
drivers often use the carpool lane as a passing lane when traffic is at its worst. At
the speed you're maintaining in that lane, they will never see you. Always keep an
eye scanning ahead for cars that may jump into your lane. And keep your bike in
the outside lane position. Be prepared to swerve.

If it is legal to split lanes in your state, then it can be safer than riding between two
larger vehicles' bumpers. However, do not ever split lanes in an area where the car
drivers are not expecting it, or where law enforcement won't accept it. That being
said, remember these life-saving rules: Do not maintain pace with the car next to
you. You must go faster. Try to go at least 5 miles an hour faster to get you
through blind spots and out of the way of drivers who are waiting for you to pass
before changing lanes. Do not go more than 15 miles an hour faster than the cars
next to you. You will not be able to stop if someone cuts off your path, and they
will not see you in their mirrors. Do not split lanes at speeds over 30mph/50kph.
You are risking death doing this. Above 20 mph or so drivers become much more
likely to dive from one lane to another without signaling. When making that choice
to jet between to vehicles or not, ask yourself if you could make it 100 out of 100
times. During your riding career you may make this choice thousands of times.
Disaster needs only one mistake. Finally, before pulling out into that lane between
lanes, check your rear view for other motorcyclists. One could be coming up very

Tips & Warnings

 Know the stopping ability of your bike right now. Tire and brake condition
change with time. If you only make emergency stops in an emergency you
can't know what to expect.
 Practice your counter-turning and braking all the time on every ride. How
you ride normally is how you will ride in an emergency. Don't rely on
knowledge, you need muscle memory.
 Read books on motorcycling and take a rider's course.
 No claims are being made concerning legality of anything described above
in your area. Do not break traffic laws while riding your motorcycle.