Seam:

A seam is a joint between two or more pieces of fabric by stitches.

Seam Dimensions:
Seams have three dimensions:
a) length
b) width and
c) depth
Seam Length:
Seam length is the total distance covered by a continuous series of stitches.
Exact measurements of seam length are used in costing, calculation of thread
usage, writing specifications and monitoring quality standards.
Seam width:
Seam width considerations are width of a seam allowance and stitch width
relative to the seam.
A seam allowance is measured from the cut edge of fabric to the main line of
stitches. This is the amount of fabric that extends beyond the actual seam line.
Width of a seam allowance is often a factor in judging garment quality, reducing
yarn slippage etc.
Seam depth:
Seam depth is the thickness of a seam.
The choice of seam type is determined by
1) Aesthetic standards
2) Strength
3) Durability
4) Comfort in wear
5) Convenience in assembly in relation to the machinery available and
6) cost
As per British standard there are eight seam classes:
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
7)
8)

Class 1 : super imposed seams

Class 2: lapped seams
Class 3: bound seams
Class 4: flat seams
Class 5: decorative stitching
Class 6: edge neatening
Class 7 and
Class 8

Class 1: Super imposed seams:

This is the commonest construction seam on garments
The simplest seam type within the class is formed by superimposing the edge
of one material on another.
A variety of stitch types can be used on this type of seam, both for joining the
fabrics for neatening the edges or for achieving both simultaneously.
French seam:
Piped seam:
Class 2: Lapped seam
The simplest seam type in this class is formed by lapping two pieces of the
material.
In practice, the simple seam is not common in clothing because it causes
problems with raw edges and at least one of the edges must be neatened in a
decorative manner.
Much more common on long seams on garments such as jeans and shirts is
the so called lap felled seam, sewn with two rows of stitches on a twin
needle machine equipped with a folding device.
Lapped seam
Lap felled seam
Welted seam
Class 3: Bound seam
In this class, the seam consists of an edge of material which is bound by
another, with the possibility of other components inserted into the binding.
Simplest bound seam
Common bound seam:
A fabric cut into a narrow strip. Normally bias cut strip normally be used.
A folding device turns the edges over the edge of the main fabric.
A bound seam is often used as a decorative edge.

Class 4: Flat Seams

In this class, the fabric edges do not overlap.
They may be butted together without a gap and joined across by a stitch has
two needles sewing into each fabric and covering threads passing back and
forth between these needles on both sides of the fabric.
Class 5 decorative stitching
The main use of the seam is for decorative sewing on the garments where
single or multiple rows of stitches are sewn through one or more layers of
fabric.
Theses several layers can be folds of the same fabric.
E.g. pin tucks
Class 6 edge neatening
Seam types in this class include those where fabric edges are neatened by
means of stitches as well as folded hems and edges.
Class 7
Seams in this class relate to the addition of separate items to the edge of a
garment part.
They are similar to the lapped seam except that the added component has a
definite edge on both sides.
E.g. front placket of shirts
Class 8
In this class only one piece of material need be involved in constructing the
seam.
The commonest seam type in this class is the belt loop as used on jeans.
Also included in this class are belts.