PETERSON PLANT POINTERS
PETERSON NURSERY & GARDEN CENTER, INC.
2184 E. COUNTY ROAD 540 A, LAKELAND, FLA. 33813
PHONE (863) 644-6491 E-MAIL: petersonnursery1@ juno.com.
WEB SITE: www.petersonnursery.com
VOL14:1 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2010
WRITTEN BY KAREN PETERSON NORRIS
PRINTED BY HOWIE PETERSON
TIME TO PRUNE in January all deciduous fruit trees
and ornamental plants such as: PEACHES,
NECTARINES, GRAPES, SPIREA AND
HYDRANGEA. EVERGREEN SHRUBS such as:
LIGUSTRUM, VIBURNUM, PODOCARPUS, ETC.,
should be done in the middle of February PROVIDED
WEATHER INDICATES AN END OF THE COLD. Also
in February prune your CITRUS trees if needed or
desired. Choose one of three ways:
1st year NORTH/SOUTH SIDE of the tree,
2nd year EAST/WEST SIDE of the tree or
3rd year cut the TOP of the tree.
If you prune all over you will trim off the fruiting area.
The citrus bloom and fruit on the last years new
growth.
AZALEAS: In February they are really in pretty color
this month but petal blight can devastate the beauty
over night because of the rain, fog and moisture in the
air. For control of this problem, spray before the heavy
flowering period. Spray the flowers and the ground
using DITHANE M-45 or DACONIL
FUNGICIDE. Now is an excellent time to purchase
azaleas to get the color you want while they are in bud
and bloom. Be sure to choose a shady location, use
plenty of peat and/or composed oak leaves (if you have
some) to enrich the soil. Line the hole with peat, oak
leaves and mix MILORGANITE in the hole. When
planting spread the root ball and place the azalea no
deeper than the azalea was growing in the container.
Put a thin layer of mulch around the azalea, one inch
only. Water daily until the azalea is established.
Azaleas must be kept well watered in order to reduce
any growing problems. Ask for our "AZALEA
CULTURE BROCHURE" and "HOW THE DUTCHESS
WAS BORN".
CAMELLIAS: Are beautiful flowers starting this time of
year. Camellia sasanqua begin to flower in October
thru January. These varieties are usually fast growing
and very hardy to the cold and resistant to root rot.
Camellia japonica will begin to flower in November
thru April. These varieties are usually slower growing
and very hardy to the cold. Proper location in planting
will save a lot of time in the future, by fertilizing,
spraying and water. Select a partially shaded area,
preferably north or eastside unless natural shade is
available will be the best area to plant the camellias.
Organic matter is a must in the hole when planting.
Such as: peat humas, leaf mold, cow manure or
Milorganite mixed with the existing soil. It is pure folly
to pay $10.00 to $25.00 for a specimen plant then plant
in a 50 cent hole. Be sure to have some good air
circulation or fungus and bugs will occur on the leaves.
They like a well drained soil NOT wet or crown rot will
set in. Pesticides used for scale or insects should be
recommended after we see a specimen of an insect or
diseased leaves.
Cold weather is here! There are several ways to
prepare your plants to protect them from the cold.
Water the soil thoroughly before the cold front moves
through the area. Moist soil holds more heat than dry
soil. Wrap the trunk of any grafted citrus trees with
twelve to fourteen layers of newspaper, tie it at the top
and bottom or use a REESE CITRUS INSULATOR for
any grafted trees. If tender shrubs are small, place
cardboard boxes over them and if the shrubs are large
place several stakes and then toss your cover over the
plants. If the cover is a frost blanket, before covering
your plants water well so you can trap that heat
underneath to keep plants from getting damaged. Then
use water to ice over the top of the blanket. This is
called an IGLOO TECHNIQUE. When it gets to 18
degrees the iced cloth keeps the plants at 32 degrees.
You can actually tap the cloth and it won't move when
it's frozen. Once the frost blanket is frozen you can
shut off the water because the frost cloth will stay
frozen. For more information please ask for our
brochure on "FROST PROTECTION". If you have an
irrigation system, make sure to shut off your system or
it can damage even your hardy shrubs because ice
forms when it is at 32 degrees. DO NOT use plastic
because this will cause the inside of the cover to lose
radiated heat; therefore, it super cools the plant making
the air become colder than the outside. Winds causing
chill factors of well below freezing temperatures can do
harm to plants also. Be sure to remove all covers and
cardboard boxes after the cold is over or you can have
even more damage if left on for several days and
warms up to 70 or 80 degrees. If we sustain four or
more hours below 32 degrees, it is important that steps
be taken to help restore the damaged landscape to its
natural beauty. We recommend the following action be
taken as a killing frost or freeze is over.
FIRST - Maintain adequate water (moisture) to the
plants. Apply at least 1/2 inch of water when you
irrigate. This should be done no matter how bad the
lawn, trees or shrubs look.
SECOND - Spray fungicide on damaged plants using
the recommended dosage and one that is cleared for
the use on the specific plants, such as: LIQUID
COPPER, DITHANE M-45, THIOMYL and DACONIL.
Applications should be made three times at the rate of
the recommended dosage as found on the label.
IMPORTANT: ALWAYS READ THE LABEL.
THIRD - DO NOT PRUNE OR CUT BACK DAMAGE
PORTIONS until danger and/or freezing is over. Bank
up soil around tropical plants that have been damaged
to protect them from future cold damage. This could
be until mid March. For information ask for our
brochure "COLD DAMAGE GARDENING TIPS".
CITRUS TREES: If your citrus trees are looking pale
use CHELATED CITRUS NUTRITIONAL SPRAY.
Now is the most effective time to apply the nutritional
spray during December, January and February up to
the time of flowering is completed. It may be used at
other times when deficiency symptoms appear.
(See paragraph Time to Prune) After pruning you can
fertilize your trees with CITRUS SPECIAL or CITRUS-
TONE by Espome and use one pound per foot of
branch spread. NEW ITEM called LUTZ SUPER
CITRUS TABLETS 8-4-8 last for up to one year.
LAWN MAINTENANCE: Apply a pre-emergent now
such as BALAN, TREFLAN or SURFLAN to get that
pesky CRABGRASS under control. This will kill the
germination seed as it emerges. Re-apply every 90
days (12 weeks or 3 months) for continuing control.
Check your lawn for fungus also this time of year damp
cool foggy mornings increase this problem use
DITHANE M-45 or THIOMYL.
Weed and feed can still be applied. Be sure to use the
correct one for your lawn. It comes in two types -
one for St. Augustine grass and another for Bahia
grass. You must use the CORRECT ONE for your
lawn. If you don't you could damage your lawn or even
kill your grass. The pre-emergent weed killers can still
be applied to control grassy weeds such as crabgrass.
If you have a mixture of St. Augustine and Bahia a pre-
emergent can be used in both grasses because this
insures that the weed seed doesn't germinate. Wait at
least 30 days to interplant or over-seed your lawn with
winter ryegrass when applying weed killers.
ROSES: February is the time to prune your rose
bushes. Remove all dead wood and clean out the
middle of the plant to open up your rose plant to
allow air circulation. To seal your cut where you
just pruned, paint or dabbed with orange shellac,
pruning paint or white glue. When cutting each
stem make sure to dip your clippers in bleach
water (2 tablespoons per gallon of water) to
disinfect each cut you make. Then spray your
plants with Liquid Copper or Dithane M-45
Fungicide to control diseases such as dieback
that can occur when you trim your roses back. To
re-establish your rose bushes after cutting apply -1
cup Limestone and
1 cup Rose Tone around the branch spread.
Continue to spray for insects and to prevent black
spot and powdery mildew. REMEMBER that a
fungicide is a preventative not a cure. For further
information ask for our brochure on “How to
Winter Prune your Roses Bushes.”
VEGETABLES: In February is the time to prepare for
a spring garden. Choose a location that has at least six
hours of sunlight. The pH should be 5.8 to 6.3. SOIL
PREPARATION should be done 1 to 4 weeks before
planting. NEMATODES especially and other soil
insects can seriously reduce the growth and yield of
most vegetables by feeding in or on their roots if not
treated. For Nematodes mix shrimp or egg shells in
the soil prior to planting. Use PERMETROL for most
soil insects.
PLANT NOW
BULBS: AMARYLLIS, ANEMONES, BLOOD LILIES, CALLAS,
CALADIUMS, CANNAS, CRINUM LILY, DAHLIAS, ELEPHANT
EARS, GLADIOLUS, NARCISSUS, PINE CONE GINGER LILY,
RAIN LILIES.
FLOWERS ( H=HARDY; T=TENDER): AGERATUM-T;
ALYSSUM (SWEET)-H; BEGONIAS-T; CALENDULA (WINTER-
MARIGOLD)-H; CLEOME (SPIDER FLOWER)-H; DELPHINIUM-
H; DIANTHUS (SWEET WILLIAMS)-H; GAILLARDIA (BLANKET
FLOWER)-H; GAZINNIA DAISY -H; GERBERA DAISY-H;
GYPSOPHILA (BABY BREATH)-H; HOLLYHOCK (ANNUAL)-H;
IMPATIENS-T; LARKSPUR-H; LOBELIA-T; LUPINE-H;
MELAMPODIUM-H; NASTURTIUM-T; NICOTIANA (FLOWERING
TOBACCO)-H; PANSY-H; PETUNIAS - H; PHLOX-H;
PERIWINKLES-T; RUDBECKIA (BLACK-EYED SUSAN)-H;
SALVIA (BLUE PERRIENNAL)-H; SALVIA (SCARLET SAGE)-T;
SORBET-H; SNAPDRAGON -H; STATICE-H; STOCK-H; SWEET
PEAS -H; VERBENA-H; VIOLA (JOHNNY JUMP UPS)-H.
HERBS: BASIL-T; CATNIP-T; CHIVES; DILL; FENNEL-T;
GARLIC; LAVENDAR; MINTS-T; OREGANO; PARSLEY;
ROSEMARY; SAGE;
SWEET MARJORAM; TERRAGON; THYME.
VEGETABLES (H=HARDY; T=TENDER): BROCCOLI-H;
BRUSSELS SPROUTS-H; CABBAGE-H; CARROTS-H;
CAULIFLOWER-H; CELERY-H; CHINESE CABBAGE-H;
COLLARDS-H; ENDIVE-H; ESCAROLE-H; KALE-H; LETTUCE-H;
MUSTARD-H; ONIONS-H; PEAS (ENGLISH)-H; PEPPERS-T;
POTATOES (IRISH)-H; RADISH-H; SPINACH-H;
STRAWBERRIES-H; SWISS CHARD-H; TOMATOES-T;
TURNIPS-H.

AVERAGE
RAINFALL
JAN. 2.2”
FEB. 2.75

FARMERS ALMANAC INFO CORNER
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2010
PLANTING ABOVE GROUND - 1/ 15,16,19,20,21,24,25,28,29
2/,16,17,20,21,24,25
PLANTING BELOW GROUND - 1/,1,2,7,8,9,10,11,14
2/,3,4,5,6,7,11,12
TRANSPLANT – 1/ 15,16,19,20,21 2/16,17,20
HARVEST ABOVE GROUND - 1/ 23,24 2/ 19,20
HARVEST BELOW GROUND – 1/ 3,4,13,14 2/ 1,9,10
GRAFT OR POLINATE – 1/1,27,28 2/ 24,25
DESTROY PEST & WEEDS - 1/ 3,4,5,6,30,31 2/ 1,2,28
PRUNE TO ENCOURAGE GROWTH - 1/ 1,2,9,10,11
2/ 6,7,
PRUNE TO DISCOURAGE GROWTH -1/ 17,18,22,23
2/ 13,14,15,18,19
PLANT FLOWERS – 1/ 1,2,7,8,28,29 2/ 3,4,5,24,25
SEED BEDS – 1/1,2,9,10,11,28,29 2/6,7,24,25