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Cooking sauces are the essence of gourmet cooking. All the great chefs are known
first and foremost for their wonderful sauces. And the great thing is, anyone, even me (and
you), can easily create a great sauce.
Yes, I said, "create". Beyond all the wonderful recipes below, and others available all over
the web and in so many cook books, once one gets the hang of what's going on with
cooking sauces, she can start to fiddle with them and create her own, improved versions.
There is no limit to the possibilities!
Cooking sauces are comprised of a liquid, plus thickening agents, plus seasonings. A
good cook will need to be able to do the following:
Make good stocks.
Use thickening agents properly to achieve the desired texture, flavor, and appearance.
Use seasonings properly.
Classic sauces are divided into two groups: mother or leading, and small or compound.
The five mother sauces are Bechamel, Veloute, Espagnole (brown), Tomato and
Hollandaise. Except for hollandaise, these are rarely served as is; more often they are
used to create the many small cooking sauces.
Bechamel Recipe
*Onion Piquet, 1
*Milk, 1/2 gal.
*Flour, 4 oz.
*Clarified butter, 4 fl. oz.
*Salt and white pepper, TT
*Nutmeg, TT
Yield: 1/2 gal.
Small Bechamel Cooking Sauces
Cream Sauce - Add to bechamel 4-6 oz. of scalded cream and a few drops of lemon juice.
Veloute Recipe
*Clarified Butter, 4 fl. oz.
*Flour, 4 oz.
*Chicken, veal, 2 1/2 qts. or fish stock
*Salt and white pepper, TT
Heat the butter in a heavy saucepan. Add the flour and cook to make a blond roux.
Gradually add the stock to the roux stirring with a whisk. Bring to a boil and simmer.
Simmer and reduce to 1/2 gallon, approximately 30 minutes.
Strain through a china cap lined with cheesecloth.
Melted butter may be ladled over the surface of the sauce to prevent a skin from
forming. Hold or cool in a water bath.
Yield: 1/2 gal.
Small Fish Veloute Cooking Sauces
Bercy - Saute 1 oz. of finely diced shallots in butter. Add 4 oz. of dry white wine and 4 oz.
fish stock. Reduce the mixture and add the fish veloute.
Cardinal - Add 4 oz. fish stock to 2 cups fish veloute. Reduce the mixture by half and add
1/2 pint heavy cream and a dash of cayenne pepper. Bring to a boil and swirl in 1 oz.
lobster butter.
Normandy - Add 2 oz. mushroom trimmings and 2 oz. fish stock to 2 cups fish veloute.
Reduce by one third and finish with an egg yolk and cream liaison. Strain through a fine
chinois.
Espagnole Recipe
*Mirepoix, med. dice, 1 lb.
*Clarified butter, 4 fl. oz.
*Flour, 4 oz.
*Brown stock, 2 1/2 qts.
*Tomato puree, 4 oz.
*Sachet (ingredients tied in a cheesecloth bag):
Bay Leaf, 1
Dried thyme, 1/4 tsp.
Peppercorns,crushed, 1/8 tsp.
Parsley stems, 4
Salt and pepper, TT
Yield: 1/2 gal.
Saute the mirepoix in butter.
Add the flour and cook to make a brown roux.
Add the brown stock and tomato puree. Stir to break up lumps. Bring to boil then reduce
to simmer.
Add the sachet.
Simmer for 1 hour so the sauce can reduce. Skim the surface as needed.
Strain the sauce through a china cap.
Demi-Glace
Espagnole sauce can be made into demi-glace, which is used to make the small cooking
sauces of the espagnole family. Demi-glace is half brown sauce, half brown stock, reduced
by half. A properly made demi-glace is rich, smooth and lump-free. It should be thick
enough to cling to foods.
Demi-Glace Recipe
*Brown Stock 2 cups
*Brown Sauce 2 cups
Combine the stock and sauce in a saucepan over medium heat.
Simmer until the mixture is reduced by half.
Strain and cool in a water bath.
Yield: 1/2 gal.
Jus Lie
Jus lie is used like a demi-glace but is lighter and easier to use. It is made in one of two
ways:
A rich brown stock is thickened with cornstarch or arrowroot and seasoned.
A rich brown stock is simmered and reduced so that it thickens naturally.
A properly made jus lie is very rich and smooth. It is not as thick as demi-glace, but should
still cling to foods.
Periqueux - Add finely diced truffles to Madeira sauce. Perigourdine sauce is the same,
except that the truffles are cut into thick slices.
Piquant - Combine 1/2 oz. shallots, 2 oz. white wine and 2 oz. white wine vinegar. Reduce
the mixture by two-thirds. Then add demi-glace and simmer for 10 minutes. Add 1 oz.
diced cornichons, 1/2 tablespoon fresh tarragon, 1/2 tablespoon fresh parsley and 1/2
tablespoon fresh chervil. Do not strain.
Poivrade - Sweat 6 oz. mirepoix in 2 tablespoons oil. Add 1 bay leaf, 1 sprig thyme and 4
parsley stems. Then add 1/2 pint vinegar and 2 oz. white wine. Reduce by half, add demiglace and simmer for 40 minutes. Then add 10 crushed peppercorns and simmer for 5
more minutes. Strain through a fine chinois and finish with up to 1 oz. whole butter.
Robert - Saute 4 oz. chopped onion in 1 oz. whole butter. Add 4 oz. dry white wine and
reduce by two-thirds. Add demi-glace and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain and then add 1
teaspoon prepared Dijon mustard and 1/2 tablespoon granulated sugar.
Hollandaise Recipe
*White peppercorns, crushed, 1/4 tsp.
*White wine vinegar, 3 fl. oz.
*Water, 2 fl. oz.
*Egg Yolks, 5
*Lemon Juice, 1 1/4 oz.
*Clarified butter, warm, 2 cups
*Salt and white pepper, TT
*Cayenne pepper, TT
Yield: 3/4 qt.
Combine the peppercorns, vinegar and water in a small saucepan and reduce by one-
half.
Place the egg yolks in a stainless steel bowl. Strain the vinegar and pepper reduction
through a chinois, into the yolks.
Place the bowl over a double boiler, whipping the mixture continuously with a wire whip.
As the yolks cook, the mixture will thicken. When the mixture is thick enough to
leave a trail across the surface when the whip is drawn away, remove the bowl from
the double boiler. Do not overcook the egg yolks.
Whip in 1/2 fl. oz. lemon juice to stop the yolks from cooking.
Begin to add the warm clarified butter to the egg yolk mixture a drop at a time, while
whipping the mixture to form an emulsion. Once the emulsion is started, the butter
may be added more quickly. Continue until all the butter is added.
Whip in the remaining lemon juice. Adjust the seasonings with salt, white pepper and
cayenne pepper.
Strain the sauce.
Small Hollandaise Sauce
Bearnaise - (bair-NAYZ) Combine 1 oz. chopped shallots, 2 1/2 tablespoons chopped
fresh tarragon, 1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh chervil and 1/2 teaspoon crushed
peppercorns with 4 oz. white wine vinegar. Reduce to 2 oz. Add this reduction to the egg
yolks and proceed with the hollandaise recipe. strain the finished sauce and season to
taste with salt and cayenne pepper.
Roux
Roux is used to thicken sauces. It is a combination of flour and fat, cooked together to
form a paste.
The three types of roux are:
White roux should be removed from the heat as soon as it develops a frothy, bubbly
appearance. It is used in white sauces where little or no color is desired.
Blond roux is cooked a little longer than white roux. It should take on a little color. It is
used in ivory-colored sauces.
Brown roux is cooked until it develops a darker color. Brown roux is used in brown
sauces. More brown roux is required to thicken a given quantity of liquid.
Procedure for Preparing Roux
Use a heavy saucepan to prevent scorching. Heat the butter or other fat.
Add all the flour and stir to form a paste. It is best to use cake or pastry flour because it
contains a higher percentage of starch.
Cook the paste over medium heat until the desired color is achieved. To avoid burning,
stir the roux often. A good roux will be stiff and will not pour well.
Incorporating Roux Into a Liquid
Cold stock can be added to the hot roux while stirring with a whisk.
Or you can add room-temperature roux to a hot stock while stirring with a whisk.
After the roux is incorporated into the liquid, cook the mixture for 20 minutes to remove
any flour taste.
Guidelines for Using Roux
Do not use aluminum pots so that the sauce doesn't turn gray because of the scraping
action.
Use heavy pots to prevent sauces from scorching or burning.
Avoid extreme temperatures. Roux should not be too hot or too cold.
Avoid overthickening.
Cornstarch
Cornstarch, a natural food thickening agent, is a very fine white powder, a pure starch
derived from corn. Liquids thickened with cornstarch have a glossy sheen. Products
thickened with cornstarch should not be reheated.
Incorporating Cornstarch
Cornstarch must be mixed with a cool liquid before it is introduced into a hot one. A
solution of a starch and a cool liquid is called a slurry. It may be added to a hot or cold
liquid. It must be stirred continuously if added to a hot liquid.
Arrowroot
Arrowroot is a food thickening agent that is similar to cornstarch because of its appearance
and thickening power. It is derived from the roots of several tropical plants. It produces
a clearer finished product and it is more expensive than cornstarch.
Buerre Manie
Beurre manie (burr mahn-yay) is a food thickening agent combining flour and soft,
whole butter. The flour and butter are kneaded together until smooth. The mixture is then
formed into pea-sized balls and whisked into a simmering sauce. It is used for quick
thickening at the end of the cooking process.
Liaison
Another food thickening agent known as a liaison is a mixture of egg yolks and heavy
cream. It adds smoothness with minimal thickening. The egg yolks could curdle in the
sauce so special care should be taken.
Procedure for Using a Liaison
Whisk together one part egg yolk and three parts whipping cream.
Temper the egg yolk and cream mixture by adding a small amount of the hot liquid
while stirring.
Add the warmed liaison to the remaining hot liquid. Plain egg yolks coagulate at
temperatures between 149 and 158 degrees F.
Sauce Finishing
Being familiar with the sauce finishing methods you should apply when making a
sauce is crucial. It really isn't all that complicated - there are only three basic techniques but you need to be aware of them and what each one does.
Reduction
Moisture is released in the form of steam when sauces cook. As steam escapes, sauces
thicken and strengthen flavors. This is known as reduction.
Straining
Smoothness is important in the finishing of sauces. They can be strained through a china
cap or a fine mesh chinois. Straining removes any unwanted ingredients and lumps
from thickeners as well.
Monter Au Beurre
Monter au beurre (mohn-tay ah burr) is whisking whole butter into a sauce to give it shine,
richness, and flavor.
Sweet Sauces
Kahlua Sauce
(Wonderful over cake or bread pudding)
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
cup confectioners' sugar, sifted
cup Kahlua
2 large egg yolks
cup heavy cream
Melt butter in a 3-quart heavy saucepan over medium heat. When butter is almost
completely melted, gradually whisk in confectioners' sugar. Add Kahlua and stir.
Remove pan from the heat and add egg yolks, one at a time, whisking constantly. Add
heavy cream and stir to combine. Return pan to medium heat and cook, stirring constantly
with a slotted wooden spoon, until sauce thickens slightly, about 5 minutes. Don't increase
temperature, or eggs will scramble. When you drag your finger along the back of a wooden
spoon, the track of your finger should remain intact in the sauce. This stage of doneness in
a sauce is called a nape, which describes the viscosity at which a sauce will nap food
without sliding off.
Place pan of sauce on a rack and stir occasionally until it cools from hot to warm. Sauce
will thicken as it cools. To hasten thickening, place pan of sauce in a bowl filled with ice
water so the ice water level comes up to 2/3 the height of the pan. Stir constantly until
desired temperature and consistently are reached. Serve sauce warm.
1 1 tsp. vanilla
Combine all the ingredients in a medium size saucepan. Cook until sugar has dissolved
and mixture is smooth and creamy. Keep warm to serve, or transfer to squeeze bottle to
drizzle over desserts.
Chocolate Sauce
cup half and half
1 tablespoon salted butter
pound semisweet chocolate chips (1 1/3 cups)
teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 oz. amaretto
Bring the half and half, booze, vanilla and butter to a light simmer. Pour over the chocolate
in a bowl, let sit for about 1 minute, then whisk until smooth. If necessary, place back on
gently heat to warm, but never place over high heat. Serve warm.
Want more sauce ideas? "The Complete Book of Sauces" has over 300 sauce
recipes. Poultry, meat, fish, pasta, salads, vegetables, desserts, etc.
Asian Sauces
Spicy Dipping Sauce (Eggrolls)
cup lime juice
4 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tsp. red pepper flakes
1 tsp. garlic, minced
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
Meat Sauces
Jalapeno Cream Sauce (Great for Quail)
1 chopped fresh jalapeno (seeds removed)
1 clove chopped garlic
ounce butter
cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste
Saute jalapeno and garlic in butter. Add cream and seasonings, then reduce to a thick
sauce consistency.
cup sugar
Pinch of salt
Puree 1 cup of raspberries. Stir in remaining ingredients with a wooden spoon, crushing
some of the berries. Refrigerate overnight. Serve at room temperature.
Bernaise (Steak)
cup Champagne vinegar
cup good white wine
2 tablespoons minced shallots
3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves, divided
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 extra-large egg yolks
pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted
Put the Champagne vinegar, white wine, shallots, 1 tablespoon tarragon leaves,
teaspoon salt, and /4 teaspoon pepper in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer
over medium heat for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is reduced to a few tablespoons.
Cool slightly. Place the cooled mixture with the egg yolks and 1 teaspoon salt in the jar of a
blender and blend for 30 seconds. With blender on, slowly pour the hot butter through the
opening in the lid. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of tarragon leaves and blend only for a
second. If the sauce is too thick, add a tablespoon of white wine to thin. Keep at room
temperature until serving.
Seafood Sauces
Chiptotle-Lime Crema (Salmon)
1 cup sour cream
1 teaspoon pureed chipotles in adobo
1 teaspoon fresh lime juice
Sea salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
In a small mixing bowl, mix all ingredients and chill for 1 hour before serving.
Cocktail Sauce
3 cups ketchup
cup horseradish
3 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
3 teaspoon Cajun Chef Hot Sauce (or hot sauce of your choice)
1 teaspoon jalapeno pepper, finely chopped
Tartar Sauce
1 cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Dash of Tabasco sauce
2 tablespoons drained sweet pickle relish
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons finely minced shallots
1 teaspoon drained tiny capers
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Combine the mayonnaise, mustard, lemon zest, lemon juice, Tabasco sauce, and relish in
a bowl. Stir in the parsley, shallots, capers, salt, and pepper. Refrigerate, covered, for at
least 1 hour and up to 3 days before serving, for the flavors to blend. Makes 1 cup.
Remoulade Sauce
2 green onions, finely chopped, include tops
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons chopped, cooked spinach
cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoons each:
Worcestershire sauce
Whole grain mustard
Fresh squeezed lemon juice
teaspoon anchovy paste
1 canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce, minced
teaspoon Tabasco sauce
Miscellaneous Sauces
Texas Dipping Sauce (Jalapeno Poppers)
1 cup Ranch dressing
cup Picante sauce
tsp. cumin
tsp dried oregano
2 tablespoons minced chives
Mix ingredients in bowl. Refrigerate.
Saffron Aioli
1 oz. lemon juice
Pinch saffron
1 tsp fresh chopped garlic
2 egg yolks
1 whole egg
tsp. dry mustard (English)
1 tsp. salt
2 cups extra virgin olive oil
Put a pinch of saffron in lemon juice and allow to sit for 10 minutes. Put lemon with saffron,
garlic, yolks, whole egg, mustard, and salt in food processor and blend. While processor is
running, slowly pour olive oil into mixture. After all olive oil has been added turn off
processor. Chill and keep refrigerated.
Melt butter over low heat (do not brown). Combine other ingredients in the blender and turn
on the machine. Drizzle in the butter. The mixture will thicken. Taste it for seasoning. Add
more lemon or seasoning if desired. Transfer to a container and serve, or to keep warm,
set container into a bowl of very hot water and stir continuously. This sauce will break if it
gets too cool, so serve right away or hold as instructed for up to 20 minutes. You can also
keep this sauce in a coffee carafe to keep warm.
Other Sauces
Here are a few recipes for some of my other favorite sauces . . .
Pan Gravy
Pan gravy is a sauce made from meat or poultry juices combined with a liquid and
thickening agent; made in a pan in which the meat or poultry was cooked.
Procedure for Preparing Pan Gravy
Remove the cooked meat or poultry from the roasting pan.
If mirepoix was not added during the roasting process, add it to the pan containing the
drippings and fat.
Place the roasting pan on the stove top and clarify the fat by cooking off any remaining
moisture.
Pour off the fat, reserving it to make the roux.
Deglaze the pan using an appropriate stock.
Add enough stock or water to the deglazing liquid to yield the proper amount of finished
gravy.
Prepare the roux in a seperate pan using a portion of the reserved fat.
Add the roux to the liquid and bring the mixture to a simmer. Simmer until the mirepoix
is well cooked.
Strain the gravy and adjust the seasonings.
Coulis
Coulis is a sauce made from a puree of vegetables and/or fruit; may be served hot or cold.
The texture is that of tomato sauce.
Procedure for Preparing a Coulis
Cook the main ingredient and any additional flavoring ingredients with an appropriate
liquid.
Puree the main ingredient and flavoring ingredients in a food mill, blender or food
processor.
Combine the puree with the appropriate liquid and simmer to blend the flavors.
Thin and season the coulis as desired.
Beurre Blanc
Beurre blanc and buerre rouge are emulsified butter sauces made without egg yolks. They
are made from three main ingredients: shallots, white wine or red wine and whole butter. A
good beurre blanc and beurre rouge is rich and buttery with a neutral flavor.
Procedure for Preparing Beurre Blanc or Beurre Rouge
Use a nonaluminum pan to prevent discoloring the sauce.
Over medium heat, reduce the wine, shallots and herbs or other seasonings. Some
chefs add a small amount of heavy cream at this point and reduce the mixture. The
added cream helps stabilize the finished sauce.
Whisk in cold butter a small amount at a time.
When all the butter is added, strain.
Compound Butters
Compound butters are made by incorporating various seasonings into softened whole
butter. Compound butters can be combined with a blender, food processor or mixer. Using
parchment paper or plastic wrap, it is then rolled into a cylinder, chilled and sliced as
needed. Most will keep for two to three days in the refrigerator, or they can be frozen.
Recipes:
Basil Butter - 1 lb. of softened, unsalted butter. Mince 2 oz. basil and 2 oz. shallots; add to
the butter with 2 teaspoons lemon juice.
Herb Butter - 1 lb. of softened, unsalted butter. Add to the butter up to 1 cup of mixed
chopped fresh herbs such as parsley, dill, chives, tarragon or chervil.
Shallot Butter - 1 lb. of softened, unsalted butter. Blanch 8 ounces of peeled shallots in
boiling water. Dry and finely dice them and mix with the butter.
Red Pepper Butter - 1 lb. of softened, unsalted butter. Puree 8 ounces roasted, peeled
red bell peppers until liquid, then add to the butter.
Montpelier Butter - 1 lb. of softened, unsalted butter. Blanch 1 ounce parsley, 1 ounce
chervil, 1 ounce watercress and 1 ounce tarragon in boiling water. Drain thouroughly.
Mince 2 hard-boiled egg yolks, 2 garlic cloves and 2 gherkin pickles. Blend everything into
the butter.
Lobster or Crayfish Butter - 1 lb. of softened, unsalted butter. Grind 8 ounces cooked
lobster or crayfish meat, shells and/or coral with 1 pound butter. Place in a saucepan and
clarify. Strain the butter through a fine chinois lined with cheesecloth. Refrigerate, then
remove the butterfat when firm.