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The plumbing

basics
Tools
Plumbing emergencies
Fixing a dripping tap
Replacing a tap
Fixing a leaking toilet
Installing a shower
Replacing a kitchen sink
Fitting a dishwasher or
washing machine
Green tips

Sanware & Plumbing

Contents

Tools ............................................................................................ 2

Plumbing emergencies .................................................................... 5

Fixing a dripping tap ....................................................................... 12

Replacing a tap ............................................................................. 15

Fixing a leaking toilet ...................................................................... 17

Installing a shower .......................................................................... 20

Replacing a kitchen sink ................................................................... 25

Fitting a dishwasher or washing machine ............................................ 30

Green tips ..................................................................................... 32

Tools
GENERAL TOOLS
PIPE WRENCH

SHIFTING SPANNER

When using a pipe


wrench, always pull it
towards you as youre
less likely to damage your
knuckles if it slips.

BASIN WRENCH

Also known as a monkey


wrench or bobbejaan spanner.
It is best to have two pipe
wrenches in your toolbox when
doing DIY plumbing. However,
do not use them on nuts as
you will damage them. The
wrenches are designed for
firmly gripping couplings and
thick-walled pipes.
2

Also known as an adjustable


wrench. The jaws are flat and
can be used on nuts and bolts
as well as copper compression
fittings.

Also known as a sink wrench,


the jaws are perpendicular to
the handle. Designed for use in
awkward or small spaces.

SLIP-JOINT PLIERS

CAULKING GUN

COPPER PIPE TOOLS


TUBE CUTTER

Used to evenly dispense


silicone, adhesive or filler.
Also known as water-pump
pliers, the slip-joint pivot of
these allows for a wider range
of sizes to be gripped.

ELECTRONIC METAL
DETECTOR

TORCH

Also known as a pipe cutter, it


is used for easily cutting copper
and plastic pipes to length.

SOLDERING TORCH

Often plumbing work needs to


be done in dark spaces. Ensure
you have a headlamp or torch
to make the job easier.

Also known as a wall scanner,


it is used to detect electrical
cables and water pipes behind
walls so you can expose the
right ones and avoid chiselling
through electric cables.

TAP WASHERS

PLUMBERS TAPE

These come in all shapes and


sizes and are needed to stop
taps leaking. Keep a few
sizes on hand so that you can
fix those leaking taps without
wasting petrol on visiting the
shops again.

Also known as thread seal tape


and PTFE tape, used to create
a seal when screwing plumbing
fittings together. It is wrapped
around the threads on the male
fitting.

This differs from a soldering


iron by having a live flame.
Used for heating copper pipes
and couplings to solder them
together. (Can also be used
for making crme brle in an
emergency.)
3

SOLDER

SAFETY GEAR

Soft metal wire that melts and


flows when heated. Used to
joint metal pipes together.

FLUX
Safety glasses
Long sleeves and pants
are best
Gloves when soldering
and cutting pipes

WIRE BRUSH
Painted onto a joint before
soldering, this allows the
molten solder to spread evenly
throughout the joint.

DEBURRING TOOL

Used for scuffing the inner


surface of copper couplings
before soldering them so the
solder will hold fast.

EMERY SPONGE

Cleans up (deburs) the cut


edges of metal pipes. The
same can be achieved by
scraping the metal handle of
pliers around the inside of the
pipe.
4

A mild abrasive sponge used to


clean metal before soldering.
Normally used after a wire
brush.

SAFETY TIPS
Gather all necessary
tools before starting
a job.
Remember that water
and electricity make a
dangerous combination,
so call in a professional
to deal with jobs that
involve both, such as
geyser installation.
Wash hands and tools
thoroughly after any
plumbing job involving
drains and waste water.
Use gloves when
soldering to protect your
hands from the heat of
the pipe and any
dripping solder.
When using a soldering
torch, hold the nozzle
away from you and
other people when
lighting it. Also
remember that it will
remain hot after being
turned off and so must
be put where it cant
cause harm.
Molten solder behaves
like a liquid and will
burn any skin or
clothing it comes into
contact with.
When soldering, always
keep a fire extinguisher
and a bucket of water
close by to deal with
emergency fires or burns.

Plumbing emergencies
BLOCKED SINK

1 PERSON

SKILL

1 HOUR

HOW TO

What you
will need:
- Bucket
- Plunger

1 Using your fingers, fish out any 2 Empty the basin so at most
hair or other substances you see
sitting in the plug hole.

it is half full and place the


plunger over the plug hole.

Chemical drain cleaners


are handy for dealing
with partial blockages.
However, they are very
dangerous and can cause
harm if not used correctly.
Never pour drain cleaner
into a sink with water in
it, and never use one in
conjunction with a plunger.

If you have removed the


trap under a sink or basin
and need to pop out to
buy more materials, plug
the open drain with a
damp rag to prevent any
sewer gases and odours
from coming into your
home. Flush the pipe with
water immediately after
replacing the trap.

8 Replace the P-trap and run


the taps to flush away any last
bits of blockage and check for
leaks.

3 Block off the overflow, if

there is one, with a damp


rag. Gently force the air out of
the plunger so it forms a seal
around the plug hole. Pump the
plunger up and down quickly
five or so times and then lift it
out of the sink and see if water
flows down the drain.

Repeat step 3 as many


as six times.

6
6 Place a bucket under the trap
and undo it, letting any water
flow into the bucket.

9
9 Wash your hands and

equipment well (including the


plunger), and sterilise them to
ensure no germs from the drain
are spread in your home.

NOTE
5
5 If the sink remains blocked,
unscrew the S, P or U-trap
under the sink with a pipe
wrench.
6

7
7 Remove the trap and clean
any blockage out of it and the
drainpipe. Use a torch so you
can see into the pipe.

If you cant see whats


causing the blockage,
its time to call in a
professional to sort out
the problem.

LEAKING WATER PIPE (OR NO WATER)


There are many reasons for taps not producing water. You might
have a leak or a burst pipe, or the mains supply might have been
switched off for local municipal maintenance. But there are ways
of seeing whether you can fix the problem. For one thing, you will
probably notice an indoor leak before discovering you have no
water.

HOW TO FIND THE LEAK

1 PERSON

SKILL

1 HOUR

What you
will need:
- Tube cutters

SAFETY GEAR
Safety glasses
Gloves
Long sleeves

- 2x capillary slip
couplings
- Wire brush
- Emery sponge or cloth
- Flux
- Soldering torch
- Solder

- Rag
- Piece of pipe

1 Identify which taps dont have


water and check the garden
for any water welling around
possible underground leaks.

2
2 If you cannot see a leak you
can often hear one, so listen at
the pipe entering the building
and you might get an idea of
where the leak is.

3 Check your water meter to

see if it is running. If it is not


then the problem is on the
municipal side of the meter.
Call to report the fault and
find out if maintenance work is
being done in the area.

4
4 Trace your water pipes into

the house, checking the ground


for dampness and ensuring all
shut-off valves are open.

5
5 When you find the leak,
mark the spot (if not obvious),
and turn off your mains water
supply.
7

HOW TO REPAIR THE LEAK


Our leak could be fixed with the insertion of a new section of
pipe soldered in place.
Soldering a pipe that is
full of water will result in
popping and crackling
(due to the water boiling),
and generally also a
leaky joint. Where you
cant empty the pipe
its advisable to use
compression fittings as
they dont need soldering.

1
1 Empty the water from the

leaking pipe by turning on the


downstream tap closest to the
leak and letting it run until water
stops coming out.

4
4 Debur both cut ends of the
pipe and clean them on the
outside with emery cloth.

3
3 Using tube cutters, cut through
the pipe on either side of the
leak and remove the leaky
section. Water might still come
out of the pipe. Dry it off. If
water continues to drip from it,
then ball up some bread and
shove it into the pipe to absorb
the water while you continue
working.

2
2 Decide how best to repair
the pipe -- either with a new
section, by creating a joint
at the leak, or by installing a
shut-off valve.
8

REMEMBER YOU WILL HAVE


TO TURN ON THE WATER TO
WASH OUT THE BREAD BEFORE
CONNECTING THE SECOND
INLINE CONNECTOR.

5
5 Cut a new piece of pipe the
size of the section you have
removed. Clean and debur
each end of it to receive the
inline connectors.

6
6 Clean the insides of both

ends of each connector with


emery paper wrapped around
your little finger.

8
8 Insert the new pipe with connectors into the gap and slide the
connectors onto the existing pipe to joint everything together.
Ensure that you use the correct connector and not regular
couplings, which wont slide completely onto the pipe. Make sure
the original pipe ends are fully inserted into the connectors. To
make this easier, mark the pipe with a pen at the correct depth.

10
7
7 Apply 20 mm of flux to the

outsides of both ends of the


new piece of pipe and push
the connectors onto them, using
a twisting motion to spread the
flux evenly. Spread flux onto
the two ends of the cut pipe as
well.

9
9 Unroll 20 cm of solder and

bend a hook into the end. This


is so you will be able to melt
about 2 cm of solder into each
joint.

10 Light your soldering torch

(with the gas turned low),


making sure it faces away
from all flammable objects and
people. If there is a dry wall
or wooden cupboard behind
the part you are heating, place
fireproof cloth behind the
pipe to prevent the flame from
damaging it.
9

Practise soldering using


a piece of scrap pipe
before embarking on this
procedure if you have
never done it before.

11
11 Heat the fitting and pipe and try to avoid burning the flux (as

it will prevent the joint from sealing).Touch the end of the solder
to the joint until it begins to melt. Remove the flame and press the
solder onto the joint until about 2 cm has been drawn into it.

13
13 Before it solidifies, wipe
away any excess solder and
flux with a dry rag. But be
careful: the pipe and solder
will be hot.

14
14 Repeat for both sides of both
connectors.

12
12 When this is done properly, the solder should spread around
the joint leaving a small visible bead.
10

15

Let the pipe cool


completely before turning on
the water and checking for
leaks around your joint.

BURST GEYSER
Water is pouring through your house. Your carpets are ruined, your
wood is swelling. What is the first thing you should do when your
geyser bursts?

1 PERSON
1 HOUR

SKILL

HOW TO
Dont forget to have your
homeowners insurance
policy number handy.

1
1 Turn off the main household electrical switch (usually found on

5 Phone your insurance


company to find out if they
have recommended geyser
repairers and phone the
professionals to come and sort
it out. Geysers use both water
and electricity so it is best
to get experts in to solve the
problem.

your distribution board, often in the kitchen or passage) and turn


off the water mains (or the shut-off valve that feeds the geyser).

2 Move children and


animals to a safe place.

6
6 Take pictures for insurance

3
3 Open all your hot water taps
to help empty the geyser and
stop further water damage.

4
4 Lay towels around the edge

of the flooded area to prevent


the water from spreading
further.

purposes and clean up the


water. Open windows and
doors to help with evaporation.

7 Remember to shut off your


hot water taps before turning
the mains water on again after
the geyser has been fixed.
11

Fixing a dripping tap


HOW TO

1 PERSON

SKILL

1 HOUR

What you
will need:
- Shifting spanner
- Cloth
- Screwdriver
(old one)

2
1
1 Turn off the water to the

dripping tap and turn on the


tap to release any water in the
system. Leave the tap open.

12

2 When water stops flowing

out of the tap, plug the hole in


the sink/basin to prevent losing
small items down the drain,
and place an old towel in the
sink to prevent it from being
damaged by dropped tools.

- Water pump
pliers
- Washer or washerand-jumper unit,
or washer and
seating set
- Scouring pad

3
3 Expose the screw holding

the handle of the tap in place


by levering off the hot/cold
button and undo it to remove
the handle.

4
4 Cover the nose of your
spanner with tape so it wont
scratch the finish on your tap.

5
5 Using a spanner, undo the nut around the headpiece assembly,
holding the tap body firmly as you do so to prevent it from turning
on the basin (which could cause other leaks).

6
6 Remove the part holding the washer (tap jumper). Unscrew the

nut holding the washer in place using water pump pliers. Make
sure no pieces of old washer are left in the body of the tap. Give
the whole assembly a rub with a scouring pad to remove any
debris sitting on the thread.
13

If the washer seat is pitted


you should fix it with a
reseating tool. Alternatively,
replace the tap.

7
7 Fit the new washer and replace and tighten the nut holding it to
the jumper.

9
9 Close the tap and turn on the
water supply. Before opening
the tap, see if the leak has
stopped, then test to see if
water comes out of the tap.

cold button

8
8 Place the jumper back in the headpiece assembly and replace
this in the tap body. Tighten it in place with a spanner. Refit the
handle and tighten the nut/screw that holds it in place.
14

10
10 Replace the hot/cold button.

Replacing a tap
HOW TO

1 PERSON

SKILL

1 HOUR

What you
will need:
- New tap
- Flexi connector
- Plumbers tape
- Plumbers putty
- Plumbers wrench

- Shifting spanner
- Basin wrench

1 Turn off the water to the tap and lay a towel in the basin to
protect it from your tools. Put a bucket under where youll be
working.

- Rag

15

2
2 Disconnect the flexi connector
supplying water to the tap
and let any water run into the
bucket.

3
3 Using the basin wrench,

unscrew the nut under the basin


that holds the tap in place and
remove the tap (you might need
to lever it off its seating with a
screwdriver).

5
5 Place a roll of plumbers putty
around the inner edge of the
base of the tap (to prevent
water leaking past it into the
cupboard below) and position
the tap on the basin.

6
6 Fasten it to the basin via the

nut underneath, using the basin


wrench to tighten it well.

7
4
4 Assemble the new tap as per
the manufacturers instructions
and make sure it fits in the hole
in the basin.
16

7 Attach the flexi connector to


the tap inlet. Make sure that
the nut is tight as the connector
uses a rubber washer to make
a seal (no need for plumbers
tape here).

8
8 Turn on the water supply and
test the tap for leaks.

9
9 Wipe any excess plumbers
putty away.

If you are replacing


a hot water tap, with
luck youll find a shut-off
valve between it and the
geyser. If you dont, then
you will have to shut off
the water supply to the
geyser. Dont worry about
switching off the electricity
because the geyser will
never drain completely.
Just open the hot water
tap and wait till it stops
running.

Fixing a leaking toilet


LEAKING INTO THE BOWL
1 PERSON

Toilet cisterns used to overflow through a pipe that led outdoors, so


it was obvious when they were leaking. Modern cisterns overflow
into the toilet bowl. This is a great advancement but means you
could be wasting water (and therefore money) by not noticing
and fixing a leaking toilet. Look into your toilet bowl. If water is
dribbling down the sides and you havent recently flushed it, then
you have a leak.

SKILL

1 HOUR

What you
will need:
- Screwdriver

HOW TO
1

Remove the lid of the


cistern.

2 Check your float. This is


linked to the inlet valve and
controls the level of the water
in the cistern. If you have a
leak, the water level could be
too high, in which case all you
need to do is get the float to
close the inlet valve at a lower
water level. Is this the case? To
find out, lift the float slightly and
gently. If water stops flowing
into the cistern, it is.
17

LEAKING FROM THE OUTLET PIPE


If water is dripping down the back of the toilet or there are brown
stains down the back, then you might need to replace the wax
seal between the toilet and the outlet pipe. This is an unpleasant
job but easy and quick to do.

HOW TO

1 PERSON

SKILL

1 HOUR

What you
will need:
- Bucket
- Cup
- Wax seal
- Cleaner

Give your toilet a good


clean and sterilise it.

- Paper towels

2 There is no need to
switch off any valves because
you will be working on the
outlet, just dont flush the toilet
while you are busy.

- Clean cloths

3
3 Using a screwdriver, tighten

the screw above the float so


that it closes the inlet valve
sooner (you might have to flush
and refill the cistern a couple of
times before you get it right).

With the cistern full, test


the float by pushing it down
slightly. Water should spray
into the cistern. Release the
float and it should stop. Once
this has been achieved you will
have fixed your leaking toilet.
18

4
3
3 Put an old towel under the

joint to catch any dripping


water and minimise the amount
of clean up.

4 Pull out the old seal try


and get all of it out. If you are
unable to, then use the bits
left behind to provide extra
sealing. Just dont leave any
discoloured, saturated wax in
there as it wont seal well.

SAFETY GEAR

5
5 Dry the area thoroughly with

Rubber gloves

To finish the seal off


neatly, pour some soap
on your hands and wipe
them over the wax to
smooth it. This will also
help with cleaning your
hands afterwards.

an old cloth.

6
6 Gently break the new wax seal and pack it around the joint.
This can get quite messy but make sure the wax is packed in
firmly all the way around and there are no gaps.

8
8 Flush the toilet and check for
leaks. If there is one, remould
the wax to fill the gap.

9 Wash all your equipment


well and sterilise it with Dettol.

7
7 Wipe excess wax off with paper towels and remove any that
got onto the outside of the pipe or toilet with a detergent.

If the gap between the


toilet and the outlet pipe
is big, roll up some old
newspaper and use it
to caulk the gap so you
dont waste too much
wax.

19

Installing a shower
HOW TO

What you
will need:
2 PEOPLE

2 DAYS

SKILL

- Shower tray
- Shower doors
- Shower taps
- Silicone sealer
- Chisel (if taking
off tiles)

- Shifting spanner
- Sugar soap

1
1 Plan what you want to keep
from the old shower in the
way of pipes and fittings and
decide whether you need to
change their position.
20

2
2 Take out the old fittings and
gut the area. We removed the
shower base (which was built
in), wall tiles and fittings.

- Sandpaper
- Paint and roller
- Shower head
- Pipe wrench
- Plumber s tape

FITTING THE TAPS

4
3
3 Reroute pipes where

necessary, chasing them into


the walls. Expose old chased
pipes in order to move fittings.

4 Remember to plug any open


drains so you dont end up
inadvertently flooding your
bathroom when using other
showers and baths in the
house.

If you are just updating


the look of your taps, you
might be able to avoid
exposing the previously
chased pipes. All that
might be necessary is
to clean and dry the
threads on the pipes,
wrap plumbers tape
around them to seal
the connections, and
then screw on your new
fittings.

CHASING PIPES

This is when you hide the


pipes below the surface
of the wall. Use an angle
grinder to define the edges
of the chase channel, and
a chisel and hammer to
quarry out the channel.
Put together as much of
the pipework as possible
before placing it into
the channel. Once its
connected, remember to

check it thoroughly for leaks


before plastering over the
pipes and using a steel float
to create a smooth finish for
painting or tiling. Before you
tile or paint the walls (and
base, if concrete) make sure
youve sealed them with a
bonding liquid or sealing
agent.

However, if you are


changing the type of
tap, you might need to
expose previously chased
pipes in order to change
the fittings on them and/
or create more space for
the new taps. Once these
are installed, check for
leaks before plastering
and smoothing the wall.
21

SHOWER TRAY AND DRAIN

5
5 Plan the height above the
floor you want your shower tray
to stand and install the P-trap
to the drainpipe and then the
washer and connectors so that
everything is in position for the
tray.

WALL COVERING

8
8 We chose to tile the area
with standard white tiles and
white grout. If you have a
smooth wall you can use
Plascons Bathrooms & Kitchens
paint instead of tiling.

FITTING YOUR SHOWER HEAD

6
6 Stuff a wet rag into the drain
to prevent any debris from
falling into and blocking your
waste water pipes.

9
9 Clean and dry the shower

arm projecting from the wall.

11
7
7 Position the tray in place and
fit the waste outlet to the tray
along with the rubber pipe that
came with the tray.
22

10
10 Assemble the shower head

according to the instructions that


come with it.

11 Wrap plumbers tape


clockwise around the thread
on the shower arm. Make sure
to wrap it on tightly so that
it sinks into the threads and
to use an unbroken piece of
tape.

INSTALL SHOWER CUBICLE

12
12 Screw the new shower head onto the arm.

15
15 Construct the frame as per
the manufacturers instructions
and place glass into the seal.
A shower nozzle should
be 2 m to 2.1 m above
the tray, depending on
the height of the tallest
family member.

13
13 Direct the head away from
you and into a bucket and
test to see if you have sealed
the joint fully and whether the
shower head is working well.

14
14 If there is a leak at the joint,
use a cloth and spanner to
tighten the head more.

16
16 Position the complete cubicle
on the shower tray with the
doors closed to ensure it fits
well. You might need help
holding it in place.
23

SEALING YOUR CUBICLE

Wrap tape around the


nose of your wrench to
prevent it from scratching
new fittings.

REROUTING PIPING
17
17 Place one of the frame
sections on the one wall,
resting it on the corner of the
shower tray, and mark where
you need to drill holes in the
wall to secure it. Drill and
secure with wall plugs and
screws. Repeat on the other
wall.

18
18 Screw the shower door

hinge into place and check


that the door lines up with the
magnetic closing strip before
tightening completely.

24

19
19 Use anit-mould silicone sealer
to seal along all edges and
around all corners, smooth off
bead with a finger. Make sure
you seal between tiles and tray
and the tiles and cubicle to
create a watertight enclosure.

20
20 Remove the wet rag from
the drain and silicone edges
in the drain. Screw the outlet
strainer into place.

Choose the shortest run


for the pipes and use the
straightest course to prevent
heat and pressure loss.
Make sure that you do not
bypass any crucial valves,
such as pressure reducing
valves, as if you do it will
be dangerous and could
damage your geyser.

For safety, try to route


the cold water pipe from
as close to the mains as
possible. If you dont, other
people using cold water
in the house will affect the
temperature of your shower.
Someone flushing a toilet
could even lead to the
person in the shower being
scalded. The routeing of
the hot water pipe is not as
important, for if someone
else uses hot water it will
only mean your shower
running colder, which is a
comfort issue but not unsafe.

Replacing a kitchen sink


HOW TO

2 PEOPLE
4 HOURS

SKILL

REMOVE THE OLD SINK

What you
will need:
- New sink

SAFETY GEAR
Safety glasses

Close the hot and cold


shut-off valves and turn on the
taps to release pressure and
ensure the water is off.

Place bucket under supply


line for water run out.

- Taps
- Water supply lines
- Plumber s putty/
silicone
- Plumber s tape

- Torch
- Rags
- Bucket
- Pipe wrench x2
- Basin wrench

1
1 Take out everything (chemicals
and detergents) from under the
sink. Put them out of reach of
children and pets.

If your sink has a few small


rust spots, use inox cream
to polish them away and
you wont have to replace
the whole sink.

- Pliers
- Drain connection: pipe,
washers, slip nut, T-piece,
P-trap, wall outlet
connector, elbow piece

25

4
4 Use two pipe wrenches to
release the compression fittings
for both the hot and cold taps.

6
6 Inside the cupboard, use a

torch to see and unscrew the


sink from the cupboard.

7
7 Use a blade to cut through
any sealant between the sink
and the countertop.

8
8 Get some help to lift the sink
off the counter, one person
lifting from the top and the
other pushing from inside the
cupboard, if necessary.

5
5 Use pliers to disconnect the drainpipe and P-trap from the sink

outlet. Water will flow out, so have the bucket handy. Remove any
dishwasher or washing machine pipes. If you are replacing the
piping, remove the old piping completely and block the drainpipe
through the wall with a wet rag to prevent any sewer gases from
coming into your kitchen.
26

9
9 Clean up the edges of the
countertop and wall and if
necessary cut a larger hole for
the new sink to fit in.

FITTING THE NEW DRAINPIPE

1O
10 Apply a roll of plumbers

putty around the outlet hole


on the inside of the sink and
position the new waste outlet
fitting firmly on the putty.

14

11
11 Place the sink on its side and

14 The drainage system must be planned according to where your

main drain is. Construct as much of it as possible before fitting


the sink into the counter, as working space will be limited in the
cupboard. Attach most of it onto the sink before you install the sink.

tightly secure the fitting to the


bottom of the sink, using the
rubber gasket and flanged nut.

12 Repeat the process for the


second sink.

13
13 Remove excess putty from
around both fittings using a
cloth.

15
15 Attach a washer, slip nut and tailpiece to the pipe for each sink,
then join them via a T-piece. Attach a P-trap to the bottom of the
T-piece and route the pipe to the wall outlet.
27

FITTING THE TAP

INSTALLING THE NEW SINK

16
16 Assemble the mixer unit as per the manufacturers instructions
and wrap plumbers tape around the threads where it will be
connected to the hot and cold inlet pipes.

20
20 Place the sink into the hole
left by the old one.

17
17 Position the mixer on the sink. You might need to cut a hole in
the sink if there isnt one you could use a hole saw designed for
metal, or a chassis punch.

19

Remove excess putty.

21
18
18 Fasten mixer to the sink using
a basin wrench to tighten the
nut well.
28

Be very careful of
stainless steel edges they
can be extremely sharp.
Wear gloves whenever
possible.

21 Screw extra struts in place to


create a good solid frame for
the sink and slide it into place.
You might need some help to
do this with ease. You could
add adhesive to the frame
before putting the sink in place.

HOOKING UP THE WATER

CONNECTING THE DRAIN

flexible pipe

22
22 Attach the supply lines to the
connector pipes of the mixer
using a compression fitting on
each line.

24
24 If you have trouble lining up
the P-trap and wall outlet you
could buy a flexible pipe to join
the two pieces. Before joining
them, remove the wet rag from
the pipe through the wall.

23
23 Place a container under the
mixer and turn on the hot and
cold water to check for leaks.

26
26 Run the water to check for
leaks.

25
25 Seal the gaps between the sink and the counter with silicone,
wiping the sealant smooth to complete the seal and provide a
neat finish.

29

Fitting a dishwasher
or washing machine
HOW TO

1 PERSON

SKILL

1 HOUR

What you
will need:
- Flexible

water line

- Reducer
- Hose clamp

1
1 Identify the closest cold water tap and drain.
30

2 Screw the feeder pipe


onto the back of the washing
machine.

3
3 Attach the other end to the tap. The tap should have a thread,

if not you might need to replace it with one that does. The pipe is
usually designed to be attached without the use of tools.

5
5 Turn on the tap to the washing
machine, set it on the rinse
cycle and test for leaks.

Fit a reducer between


your drainpipe and
washing machine outlet
and never worry about a
flooded kitchen again.

4
4 Attach the pipe holder and place the end into the drain. Cable
tie in place.

31

Green tips
Lower your geyser
temperature to save on
electricity costs.
Although geysers come
well insulated, extra insulation
helps them retain the heat even
longer and so reduce your
energy costs.
Minimise evaporation of
irrigation water by using a drip
system instead of a sprinkler
system.
Insulate all your hot water
pipes, both outside the house
and in the ceiling. This is an
additional way to save you
electricity. If your pipes are
chased into the walls, the next
best thing is to insulate at least
three metres of them, starting at
the geyser.

32

Only wash full loads in your


washing machine.

Use a cold wash cycle in


your washing machine to save
on electricity costs.
A dishwasher is more waterefficient than hand washing, but
only when it has a full load.
Dont let the tap run while you
brush your teeth, you will waste
6-8 litres of water.
Dont let the shower run while
you are washing your hair.

Taking a shower is more


water-efficient than having
a bath as long as you dont
spend a long time in the
shower.
Change your shower rose for
one with a restrictor. This will
allow you to enjoy your shower
while using less water.
Modern toilet cisterns are
much smaller than older ones.
If you still have a large cistern,
wrap a brick or large stone in
plastic and gently place it in
the cistern. Less water will now
be needed to fill it, meaning
youll use less water to flush the
loo too.
Install a dual-flush mechanism
in your cistern. There are many
times when only a half-flush is
adequate.

33

Disclaimer

Gar
den
Edib ing es
se
le
Des garde ntials
ign nin
Kee ing yo g
ur
pin
Pai g a lu garde
nti
n
sh
Dec ng the lawn
ora
in
Pain ting a side of
ti
y
fe
Floo ng out ature our ho
ring side wa me
Tilin solu your ll
tio
g
hom
e
Sec your w ns
urin all
The g your s
plu
ho
Ligh mbing me
tin
bas
ics
Sw g
imm
Cho ing po
osin ol ca
We g the re
r
eke
nd D ight to
IY p ols
roje
cts

Builders booklets, DVDs and other guides are provided strictly for informational purposes only. The
information contained herein is intended to provide general information with regard to simple DIY
projects. As products, laws and regulations are continually changing, Builders takes no responsibility
for the accuracy of information contained herein or any liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of
any project. It is the responsibility of the viewer/reader to ensure compliance with all applicable laws,
rules, codes and regulations as the case may be. Safety is important, make sure to take proper safety
precautions and exercise caution when taking on any DIY project. Always read the manufacturers
instructions and heed their guidance for using their product. Certain products or materials may only
be available at selected Builders stores. If there is any doubt regarding any element of a DIY project
please consult a professional. Builders cannot be held liable for any loss, damage or injury that may
result out of the use of the Builders booklets, DVDs and other guides.

O IN

ALS
THE
RAN
GE

34

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