Home Depot Garden Stake Bamboo Arrow Build-A-Long

First go to Home Depot and buy some 72" Bamboo Plant Stakes. They come in a 6 pack. Buy as many as you
like expecting to get 3-4 usable shafts per bag.
You will also want to pick up some 16D Duplex Nails.

Now go through the bags and pick out the straightest pieces with a OD (outside diameter) of between 710mm. It helps to have an open-end wrench handy to help gauge the OD. We are going to be making these into
32" shafts so the OD only needs to be between 7-10mm for a 32" section.

You should now have a pile of hand picked 72" Bamboo Plant Stakes with an OD of between 7-10mm over a
32" section.

Now we need to cut the Bamboo Plant Stakes down so they are more manageable for the straightening process.
Bamboo likes to split when being cut so be careful here and use a sharp/fine tooth saw.

When cutting the Bamboo you need to find the best section of your 72" stake. Bamboo has a natural taper. The
thick end of you bamboo is going to have the point. The thin end will have the nock. Take this into account when
cutting the Bamboo. You will want your cut at the nock end to be about 1.5" past a node. We will be using the
node to help setup the Self-Nock later on. Go ahead and cut the shafts down to only about 36-40" at this point. You
want to leave them a little long to help with straightening.

In the pic below you can see where you want to have the cut for the nock end in relation to the Bamboo node.

For straightening the shafts I like to use a heat gun. Just about any heat source will work.
Some people like to straighten the nodes first. Some like to do the mid section first. It does not seem to matter
either way so choose which one you like. I start with the nodes.
I take my heat gun and place it under the node while spinning the shaft. Once the section I am heating gets hot
enough the Bamboo will bend very easy. Just bend it as straight as possible and move on to the next node.

After you do the nodes move on to the section between the nodes.

Next we need to cut our straightened shafts to length (32") and sand down the nodes. Some people leave the
nodes as is. I prefer to sand them down. The choice is yours. You will also want to sand the entire length of the
shaft with 80gr sandpaper.

Before and after of the sanded nodes.

When cutting the nock end only take off a little bit. You want to leave a node about 3/4" above the nock end (skinny
end) for setting up the Self-Nock. After cutting the nock end measure 32" and trim the excess off the front. Do not
worry about node placement on the point end (fat end) it does not matter.

You should now have nice pile of straightened, sanded, cut to length (32") shafts with an OD of between 710mm.

Now we will attempt to spine our arrows. Once again some people do not bother to spine their Bamboo Arrows. I
will be. For optimal arrow flight you will want your arrow spine to match the weight of your bow.
I do not have a spine meter so this is how we will be doing it.
Take two of your 16D Duplex nails and nail them level to a flat surface 26" apart.

Next go into your quiver and grab an arrow that shoots well out of your bow. Place the arrow on the two nails and
hang any 2lb. weight from the middle. Make a mark in the middle where the arrow flexes to it furthest point.

Now go through your Bamboo Shafts and do the same thing. Place the shafts that are +/- 1mm from your
mark in a separate pile. While doing this spin the shaft with the weight on it and find the stiffest side. This is the
side you want facing the bow. Make a small mark on the nock end so you know where to place your Self-Nock.

You should now have pile of spined, straightened, sanded, cut to length (32") shafts with an OD of between
7-10mm and a mark for your nock.

Now we will be sealing our shafts to protect them from moisture. Just about anything will work here. Before
applying my finish I like to straighten the shafts on last time.

After straightening, apply your finish however you like. Some spray, some wipe. I just use an old rag to wipe on a
nice thick coat then set aside to dry.

You should now have pile of sealed, spined, straightened, sanded, cut to length (32") shafts with an OD of
between 7-10mm and a mark for your nock.

On to the Self-Nocks. This is where the project becomes more fun IMO.

First I drill a 7/64" hole 3/8" from the back of the arrow at the nock end (Skinny end) on the same side I marked the
stiff spot on the arrow.

Then using a razor blade I cut into the hole I just drilled.

Do the other side and pop out the center.

Get a piece of 80gr sandpaper and fold it in half twice so it is 4 layers thick. Use this to clean up the nock.

All cleaned up.

Now take a piece of 220gr sandpaper and place in over the sharp edge of a piece material. Use the edge of the
sandpaper to create an angle at the end of the nock.

We have to wrap the Self-Nocks to prevent them from splitting. I'm using Artificial Sinew. Any thread will work.

I start by gluing my Sinew down with a little dab of Super Glue.

Then I just wrap down the arrow about 1/2" and secure the Sinew again with a little Super Glue. Try and get this
nice and tight.

Cut off the extra and coat the whole thing in clear nail polish or Super Glue. You will also want to saturate the
inside of the nock with Super Glue to add strength.

Nocks are all finished up!

Time to turn the 16D Duplex nails into points. Take a nail and chuck it up in your drill.

Now head over to your sander and spin the head with the hand drill while you slowly taper the tip to a fine point
(both the drill and the sander are moving in this picture even though it does not look like it).

Finished head should look like this and is now ready to be installed in our shafts.

Now we will install our 16D Duplex Nail Points into our shafts. If you want to cut your shafts shorter then 32" now is
the time to do so. I am leaving these full length.

First drill out the center of the shaft with a 5/32" drill bit (or a little smaller size OD drill bit then the nail). The shaft
will want to split so go slow.

Next heat up the nail red hot and push the nail in the shaft. Make sure the nail is red hot or it will not want to fit all
the way. Go slow and dont push to hard. Once the nail fits all the way in let it cool for 10-15 minutes.

Once its cool to the touch pull out the nail and squeeze in some Gorilla Glue. I like Gorilla Glue because it fills the
gaps. Any glue will do. Then I wet my nail (Gorilla Glue likes one side wet) and insert it in the shaft.

Come back in a few hours and the Gorilla Glue should be dry. It will fill any gap it between the head and the shaft
with foamy glue.

Give the tip a good sanding to clean up the extra glue and to slightly taper the area around the marriage between
shaft and point.

Now sand the whole shaft (except the Sinew wrapping) with extra fine steel wool.

After a good sanding with the steel wool apply the final few coats of finish. Unlike the first coat (heavy) this time do
2-3 (light) coats.

Now that our finish is dry we will attach the fletching.

Glue your feathers on to the shaft using your jig. I use Duco Cement.

Then add a little dab of Duco Cement to the front and back of each feather.

Just like the nock I start by gluing my Sinew down with a little dab of Super Glue.

Then I just wrap down the arrow about 1/2" and secure the Sinew again with a little Super Glue. Try and get this
nice and tight.

Cut off the extra and coat the whole thing in clear nail polish or Super Glue.

Finished!

Now I'm going to show you how to attach Glue-On Broadheads and Glue-On Nocks.

First drill the front of the shaft (point end, fat end) with a 1/4" drill bit a little over 3" deep. The shaft will want to
split so go slow.

Next cut a 3" piece of 1/4" hardwood dowel.

Squeeze in some Gorilla Glue. I like Gorilla Glue because it fills the gaps. Any glue will do. Then I wet my 3" piece
of 1/4" dowel (Gorilla Glue likes one side wet) and insert it in the shaft.

Now lets do the same thing on the nock end.

Drill the back of the shaft (nock end, skinny end) with a 3/16" drill bit a little over 2" deep. The shaft will want to
split so go slow.

Next cut a 2" piece of 3/16" hardwood dowel.

Squeeze in some Gorilla Glue. I like Gorilla Glue because it fills the gaps. Any glue will do. Then I wet my 2" piece
of 3/16" dowel (Gorilla Glue likes one side wet) and insert it in the shaft.

Once the glue is dry we can taper the ends and glue on the Point and Nock.

Use a taper tool on the Point and nock end.

Clean up both ends with some sandpaper.

Once tapered you can mount either a Field Point or a Broadhead. I'm going to mount a Broadhead.

Place the broadhead on the stove and let it heat up.

While the Broadhead is heating up melt a little Hot Melt Glue on the tip of your shaft.

Next use pliers or an oven mitt to pick up your hot Broadhead. Place Broadhead on the tip with Hot Melt Glue and
spin it until it gets a nice fit. Once it feels like its on there centered put it under cold water to cool the Broadhead
and set the glue.

Finished.