Bucharest

Maps Restaurants Cafs Pubs Clubs Sightseeing Shopping Directory Hotels
Bucharest
October - November 2014
Old Town
A complete guide to
Bucharests liveliest area
Essential Bucharest
inyourpocket.com
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Everything you always

wanted to know about
the Romanian capital
but were afraid to ask
Contents
Arriving & Getting Around
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
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Bucharest Basics
11
Restaurants
16
The tastiest places in the city to eat
Nightlife 37
The citys best pubs and clubs
Sightseeing
41
Dont leave Bucharest without seeing the essentials
Old Town
50
Where Bucharest goes to party
Shopping
66
Souvenirs, local designers and local wine
Hotels
68
Directory
75
Maps
Northern Bucharest map
Central & Southern Bucharest map
Street register
78-79
80-81
82
Timelapse Bucharest. A gorgeous photo by Iulian Dragomir @ Dreamstime
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
Foreword
Election fever currently grips Romania, as the country gears
up for its two-stage presidential election in November (the
first round is on Sunday, November 2nd, with a run-off a
fortnight later between the two candidates who take the
most votes). Even the most casual of visitors to Bucharest
will be hard pressed not to spot at least some political advertising which - as we go to press at the end of September
- had already begun to dominate the cityscape. Whoever
wins (and we expect one of either prime minister Victor
Ponta or mayor of Sibiu Klaus Iohannis to emerge victorious) there is likely to be a celebration of some kind in Piata
Universitatii late on the evening of November 16th and into
the early hours of the next day, after which the country will
return to work and get on with its business. Presidents may
come and go but Romania - and Bucharest with it - is firmly
on the way up. A look around the city - unrecognisable
from the one we first came to more than a decade ago - is
proof of that.

Whatever your politics: enjoy Bucharest!
E S S E N TI A L
Bucharest In YourCPocket
I TY G U I D E S
IYP Romania Srl
Str. Stefan Burileanu 1-3
Bl. 21E, Sc. 1, Ap. 8,
Bucuresti 014191, Romania
Tel. (+4) 021 321 44 18
bucharest@inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1454-5276 IYP Romania Srl. Printed at MEGAPress SA,

Bucharest (tel. (+4) 021 461 08 08/09). Published six times per
year, up to 20,000 copies produced each issue. Bucharest In
Your Pocket is a member of the Romanian Audit Bureau of
Circulation (BRAT).
Editorial
Editor Craig Turp All Photography IYP Romania Srl unless
otherwise stated Cover Daniel Caluian @ Dreamstime
COVER STORY
Sales
To contact a member of our sales team send an email to the
address bucharest@inyourpocket.com, or call our office and
ask for the sales department.
The Basarab Bridge, which takes

Bucharest traffic over the railway
lines just north of Gara de Nord.
Opened in 2011 it is the widest
cable-stayed bridge in Europe,
and has become something of
a symbol of a new, modern Bucharest. Photo by Daniel Caluian
@ Dreamstime.
Copyright notice
Text, photos and maps copyright IYP Romania Srl 1999-2014
unless otherwise stated. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of its review, without written permission from
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4 Bucharest In Your Pocket
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often be a less than pleasant experience. Buses, trolleybuses

and trams run from very early in the morning (around 04:30)
to around 23:00 (earlier at weekends), after which the night
buses take over. The night bus network is extensive, and operates an hourly service throughout the night. All night buses
depart from Piata Unirii.
Look out too for the open-top, hop-on, hop-off Sightseeing Bus. It runs each summer and follows a circular route
from Piata Presei Libere to Piata Unirii and back. Tickets valid
all day cost 25 lei for adults, 10 lei for children. They can be
bought on board. For more about the Sightseeing Bus, see
the feature online at iyp.me/bus.
ARRIVING AT OTOPENI
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Bucharest is served by an extensive public transport network, made up of bus, trolleybus, tram and metro. All forms
of public transport in Bucharest are very cheap.
BUCHAREST METRO First opened in 1979, Bucharests
metro was primarily built to ship workers from the vast
housing estates of Titan, Berceni and Militari out to the huge
industrial plants at Pipera, IMGB, Republica and Industriilor.
Thats all very well if you are resident of Titan working at
IMGB, but useless to almost everybody else. The city centre
is poorly served by the metro and only the north-south M2
line, from Pipera to Berceni, which passes through Piatas Victoriei, Romana and Unirii, and the M1 branch to the Gara de
Nord, is likely to be of any use to visitors.
METRO TICKETS Tickets for the Bucharest metro are
cheap: they cost either 4 lei (valid for two trips; doua calatorii) or 15 lei (ten trips; zece calatorii) and can be bought
from any metro station. You can also buy tickets valid for
one day (abonament de o zi), costing 6 lei. The metro runs
from around 05:00 to 23:00.
TRAMS, BUSES & TROLLEYBUSES (RATB)
Even the most remote corners of Bucharest are served by
bus, trolleybus or tram, and most main roads in the city centre benefit from three or four different transport routes. Most
buses are overcrowded, however, and travelling on them can
Bucharests only commercial airport is Otopeni (officially Henri Coanda), 17km north of the city on the DN1.
Opened in 1970 and recently extended, it is a spacious,
efficient airport. After getting off the plane and easing
your way through passport control, youll find yourself in
the baggage reclaim area. Ignore all of the services on offer here, especially the currency exchange desks. Instead,
grab your luggage (if it fails to arrive head for the small
office on the right hand of side of the exit), and head off
through customs to the arrivals area. Here there are loads
of ATMs, a press shop and a small cafe. To the right is a
passage leading to the departures terminal, lined with
car hire desks and a few shops, including a chemist.
RATB TICKETS To use a bus, trolleybus or tram you will

need to buy an Activ Card before climbing aboard. These
cards cost 3.70 lei, and can be bought from the little kiosks
next to major stops. They need to be loaded with credit
(minimum 5 lei) and are reusable. The card is then debited
each time you validate it at one of the orange devices located
on buses, trams and trolleybuses. One trip costs 1.30 lei. On
all forms of public transport in Bucharest children under the
age of seven travel free. After that they need a full-price ticket.
To order a taxi, look for the touchscreens in the arrivals

hall. They are fully automated and very easy to use (and
offer multiple-language options), and you can choose
a taxi from just about the full range of Bucharest taxi
companies: all have their tariffs clearly displayed. Once
the taxi company has informed you (via a ticket which
comes out of the machine) how long the taxi will take
to arrive, and what ID number the taxi has, you simply
go outside to wait for it. Make sure you get into the correct taxi: check the company name and ID number is
the same as on the ticket. Ignore the Rapid taxis which
wait on the lower level.
For those who want to head into town in a bit more
comfort than your average visitor, there are three good
private car options: TransVision (airport-transfer-bucharest.com), BlackCab (blackcab.ro) and VMS City Shuttle (cityshuttle.ro). All three companies offer a comfortable, reliable airport transfer service at decent prices.
You can also get to town by taking bus 783, which
stops underneath the arrivals hall, in front of internal
arrivals and leaves for the city centre (stopping at Piata
Victoriei, Piata Romana and Piata Universitatii) every 30
minutes during the day, and then every 40 minutes
throughout the night. The full timetable of the 783 bus
is online at ratb.ro. Another bus, the 780, runs from the
airport to Gara de Nord from 05:15 to 23:00 roughly
every 30 minutes. You need to purchase an Activ Card
before boarding (get it from the little booth which youll
find on your right-hand side as you exit). A return journey into the city costs 7 lei (no singles are available, but
there is no time limit on using the return). You also need
to pay 3.70 lei for the card itself, but it can be recharged
as often as you like at any ticket kiosk in Bucharest, and
used on all Bucharest buses, trolleybuses and trams. The
cards cannot be bought on board. There is also a train
which connects the airport to the main railway station,
Gara de Nord. The train departs at irregular intervals,
however, and to get to the airports station you need to
take a minibus. Tiickets are available from a counter in
the Arrivals hall. Look out for the Bilete CFR sign.
TRAINS
ARRIVING AT GARA DE NORD

If you arrive in Bucharest by train you will arrive at Gara
de Nord. It is OK, but has the usual collection of rogues,
tramps and thieves to contend with. There are ATMs,
shops, kiosks, a McDonalds and a KFC. It even now has
free Wifi. To get to town take an honest taxi from the official taxi station outside (ignore anyone who approaches you inside the station). Currently, only taxis from two
reliable Bucharest companies, Meridian and Pelican, are
allowed to pick up fares here. If no taxi is waiting, use
one of the two touch screens to order one. You can also
hop on the metro: you are just one stop away from Piata
Victoriei, or take the bus: No. 123 goes to Piata Unirii,
and trolleybus No. 85 to Piata Universitatii. Tram 44 goes
to Cismigiu. Tickets (in the form of a Card Activ) from the
kiosk next to the bus stop (itself next to the taxi rank).
WARNING: None of Bucharests reputable hostels send
people to Gara de Nord to speculatively meet trains.
Anyone who approaches you (and if you have just got
off the Budapest train and have a backpack, you will
be approached) is trying to scam you: they will try and
divert you from your intended destination (often by saying that the place you want to go to is closed) towards
another hostel or hotel that they will recommend to
you. Just ignore anything they say and wave them away.
Given that Romanias roads are terrible, its comforting to

know that the countrys railways are equally crap. Having
said that, many long years of upgrade work on the Bucharest - Brasov and Bucharest - Constanta routes are now
complete, and journey times are back to something approaching 1989 levels: around two hours and 30 mins to
Brasov, just under two hours to Constanta. Should you have
to take a train, always try to get an InterCity (IC) or InterRegio
(IR) as they are the fastest and usually have the most modern rolling stock. Regio (R-) trains are slow and use much
older rolling stock. You will also see trains designated as
ICN: these are InterCity trains which stop at more stations
than usual, and are more like InterRegios. Prices on all types
of train are relatively cheap, but are rising fast. An InterCity
adult single from Bucharest to Brasov costs 90.50 lei. To buy
train tickets visit either the station, a CFR agency or buy online at bilete.cfrcalatori.ro. (Note that if buying online you
need to do so at least 24 hours in advance). Tickets cannot
be purchased on the train, though you can try bribing the
guard.
AGENTIA DE VOIAJ CFR CFRs advance booking offices.
QA-4, Calea Grivitei 139, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021
313 26 42, www.cfr.ro. Open 08:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
WASTEELS Advance reservations for all types of trains.
QA-4, Gara de Nord, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 317
03 70, (+4) 021 300 27 30, www.triptkts.ro. Open 08:00
- 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Latest Bucharest events:
facebook.com/
bucharestinyourpocket

BUCHAREST TAXIS
By and large, Bucharests numerous cheap and trustworthy yellow taxis are easy to spot as they are emblazoned
with the name and phone number of the company they
are associated with. To counter this, however, dodgy taxis
also plaster phone numbers over their cars, alongside
copy-cat logos that look cunningly like those of decent
companies. Be extra careful when getting into a taxi
around Gara de Nord, Piata Universitatii, Piata Unirii and
the Old Town / Lipscani area. When leaving a hotel or restaurant, always have the concierge or waiter order you a
cab. Never pay more than 1.77 lei per kilometre in any taxi.
Some of Bucharests taxi companies now have smartphone apps which make use of your phones GPS capabilities to get the closest taxi to you as fast as possible.
The best is StarTaxi: search for it on Google Play or the
App Store.
CAR RENTAL IN BUCHAREST

All of the major international car hire firms are present in
Bucharest, alongside a number of local outfits. You usually
need to be over 21 to hire a car in Romania, and to have
held a license for at least three years.
AVIS
A delivery and collection service is available free of charge
within the city limits; the service is on request, and it depends on the availability of the Avis rental office.QB-dul
Theodor Pallady 51, tel. *AVIS (*2847) - OSSN (One Star
Smart Number), (+4) 021 210 43 44, fax (+4) 021 210
69 12, reservations@avis.ro, www.avis.ro. Open 09:00
- 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (C-5) InterContinental,
As an alternative to the standard taxis, there are also

now a couple of companies offering a more professional service - and smarter cars - than a standard taxi.
These are Black Cab and VMS CityShuttle. Black Cab
is a taxi service which offers cabs at much the same
price as standard taxis, the only difference being that
there is a minimum charge (14 lei). Regular users can
pay monthly, and - best of all - Black Cabs will travel to
the suburbs (Pipera and the like: many ordinary taxis
will not). Black Cabs cannot be hailed on the street, but
can be pre-ordered in a number of ways. Take a look
at blackcab.ro. VMS CityShuttle is similar, with all fares
being a fixed price. They also offer airport transfers and
run tours of Bucharest and its surroundings, as well as
the Prahova Valley and southern Transylvania. See the
website cityshuttle.ro for more details.
TRUSTED TAXI COMPANIES:
Autogeneral 021 9401, Cobalcescu 021 9451, Cristaxi 021 9461, Meridian 021 9444, Mondial 021 9423,
Speed Taxi 021 9477, Taxi As 021 9435, Taxi Total 021
9424. Most of these companies have at least one operator
who speaks English.
Bucharest Basics
TOURIST INFORMATION
Sat, Sun and Henri Coanda International Airport, tel.

(+4) 021 204 16 67, Open 08:00 - 20:00.
WHEN THINGS GO WRONG
INFO TOURIST CENTER A new, privately-run tourist

information centre on Calea Victoriei which is phenomenally helpful and - dare we say it - perhaps even better
than the citys official tourist information office. Its open
Sundays too.QC-5, Calea Victoriei 68-70, tel. (+4) 021
211 33 66. Open 9:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
CARS4RENT QStr. Drumul Odaii 1D (Hotel Charter),

tel. (+4) 0723 34 71 92/(+4) 0372 99 99 99, fax (+4)
021 352 87 16, office@cars4rent.ro, www.cars4rent.ro.
Open 24 hrs.
In an emergency call 112. You do not need to use the

city code. You will be asked which service you require
(Politia/Police, Ambulanta/Ambulance or Pompierii/Firemen). Emergency call centre operators should
speak English or French but in our experience they do
not always do so. At least make sure you know the
name of the street you are calling from. If you get into
trouble with the Police, demand to call your embassy.
There is a list on page 90. The citys main police station
is at (B-4) Str. Lascar Cartagiu 22, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 84.
The best Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) in the city
is at Spitalul de Urgente, (C-3) Calea Floreasca 8, next to
Dinamo Stadium. There is a list of Pharmacies on pages 76-77, and an English-speaking Dentist on page 75.
tel. (+4) 021 314 18 37, Open 08:00 - 20:00; Henri Coanda International Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 19 57, Open
07:00 - 02:00 and Avis Porsche Bucharest North, tel.
(+4) 0723 612 011, Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00,
Closed Sun.
BAVARIA RENT QDrumul Garii Otopeni 1B, tel. (+4)
0730 33 37 07, (+4) 031 802 22 22, fax (+4) 031 802 22
28, office@bavariarent.ro, www.bavariarent.ro. Open
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at Otopeni Airport,
tel. (+4) 021 201 45 34, (+4) 0730 33 37 05, Open 08:0002:00, Sat 08:00-20:00.
BUDGET QB-4, Str. Mihail Moxa 9, tel. (+4) 021 210 28
67, fax (+4) 021 210 29 95, reservations@budgetro.ro,
www.budgetro.ro. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Also at (B-3) Calea Dorobanti 5 - 7 (Howard Johnson Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 201 50 89, Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
COMPACT RENT-A-CAR QA-4, B-dul N. Titulescu

1, bl A7, sc. 1, et. 6, ap. 16, tel. (+4) 0744 58 67 24, (+4)
021 312 98 57, fax (+4) 021 312 99 82, office@compactrentacar.ro, www.compact-rentacar.ro. Prices from
18/day.
EUROPCAR QD-6, Str. Grigore Mora 17, tel. (+4) 021
310 17 97, (+4) 0747 28 06 49, fax (+4) 021 310 17 96,
reservations@europcar.com.ro,
www.europcar.ro.
Open 09:00 - 18:00. Also at Otopeni Airport tel. (+4)
0374 00 40, Open 08:00 - 22:00. Service also available
in Cluj, Constanta, Sibiu, Timisoara, Iasi.
HERTZ QPiata Montreal 10, entrance F, 1st Floor, office 1.20, tel. (+4) 021 407 82 00, reservations@hertz.
ro, www.hertz.ro. Also at Henri Coanda Airport, tel. (+4)
021 204 12 78, Open 08:00 - 22:00.
SIXT NEW KOPEL QCalea Bucurestilor 201-203, tel.
(+4) 021 9400, (+4) 0372 37 20 05, reservation@sixt.ro,
www.sixt.ro. Open 09:00 - 17:30.
CRIME & SAFETY

We do not exaggerate when we say that Bucharest is one of
the safest capital cities in Europe. Violent crime is rare and
almost always carried out exclusively between rival gangs
in the citys less-salubrious areas. If you do not go looking
for trouble, the chances of you getting into any are tiny.
While pickpockets are everywhere (you should be particularly careful on crowded buses), violent crime is unheard of,
and even women can walk the citys streets alone at night
in relative safety.
The Romanian police force is also far better and less
corrupt than it used to be and keeps a visual presence on
the citys streets, especially in busy areas such as Old Town
at night. The main police station in Bucharest is on B-dul
Lascar Cartagiu (B-4), halfway between Piata Romana and
Piata Victoriei. If you are driving, or are out late at night, it is
a good idea to carry at least a photocopy of your passport
and driving license. Drinking in public (except in designated areas) leaves you open to a fine, and despite appearances to the contrary, prostitution is illegal. If you are arrested
ask to speak to your embassy. There is a list on pages 75-76.
In a nutshell though, do not worry. Of all Bucharests
many problems, crime really is one of the least of them.
DOGS
It was once written that you couldnt swing a cat in Bucharest without hitting a dog (by us, in fact, in our first issue,
some 15years ago) and it remains true - up to a point. Since
the mauling to death of a small buy by a pack of strays in a
Bucharest park in 2013 as many of 25,000 dogs have been
rounded up and put down by the local authorities. There
are still packs of strays around, however, although the vast
majority are found outside of the city centre. There are still
some dogs in the city centre (Old Town has its fair share) but
these tend to be less aggressive than those which live in the
citys suburbs.

Should the worst come to the worst and you are bitten
during your time in Bucharest, present yourself at once to
the casualty unit (Camera de Garda) at the Institutul Matei
11
Bucharest Basics
ROMANIAN BEER
Romania has a long, proud history of brewing good beer,
and while today there are just 20 breweries in the country (there were more than 120 breweries in 1989), such
statistics do not tell the whole story of beer in Romania,
which is far from being a sorry one. With large amounts of
investment from big foreign brewers the countrys best
known beers have been saved from extinction and improved, and in a number of cases new brews launched:
the current trend for unfiltered and lemon beers is one
such example. Fortunately for the visitor, improvements
in quality have not increased prices: Romania remains
home to one of the cheapest pints of beer in Europe. We
have long suggested that the countrys marketing people use the fact in their international campaigns.
The best known local brands of beer are probably Ursus,
Ciuc and Timisoreana. Ursus has been brewed since the
1870s, and if you ask locals what the national beer is, most
will respond Ursus. Both Ursus and Timisoreana (brewed
since 1718) are now owned by SAB Miller, which also produces the smaller brands Ciucas, Azuga and Stejar. Ciuc
(along with Silva) is owned by Heineken, while Carlsbergs
locally brewed Tuborg is also ubiquitous and popular. Other notable beers include Interbrews Bergenbier.
Bals, (D-3) Str. Dr. Calistrat Grozovici 1, tel. (+4) 021 318 60
90. The wound will be cleaned up, and you will be administered both an anti-tetanus and an anti-rabies vaccine (the
anti-rabies injection is the first of a course three: the others
must be done seven and then 21 days afterwards). You will
also get a prescription for a course of antibiotics.
LEFT LUGGAGE
Gara de Nord offers left luggage facilities, but no lockers. You
will find the left luggage counter opposite the Wasteels office.
The charge is 5 lei per small bag per 24 hours, 9 lei for a bigger
bag. You will need ID.
MONEY
Romanias currency is the leu (plural lei), divided into 100 bani.
Leu notes come in denominations of 500, 200, 100, 50, 10, 5
and 1. These are also 50, 10, 5 and 1bani coins. 1 is currently
worth 4.41 lei. The best place to get your hands on lei is at an
ATM. If you have to change cash, do it inside a bank. Credit
and debit cards (MasterCard and Visa) are accepted almost
everywhere. American Express cards are less widely accepted,
but usually be used in Bancpost ATMs.
POLITICS
Since the bloody revolution of December 1989, Romania
has been a parliamentary democracy. The Head of State is
the president (currently Traian Basescu, in office since 2004),
Unfiltered wheat beers (bere nefiltrata) are very popular

in Romania, the best probably being Ciucs, though you
should also keep a look out for Paulaners white beer, found
on tap in a number of Bucharest bars and pubs.
Also worth trying is the dark, bitter Ursus Black, a very
different beer to most local brews. Silvas Strong Dark
is similar and equally good. A few venues in Bucharest
have microbreweries, producing their own beer, or at
least serve their own bespoke brew made elsewhere:
Caru cu bere, Oktoberfest, Re:Public and Biutiful are four
such places. There arent that many craft beers in Romania, but there are a few if you know where to look. If you
get the chance, Zaguna is excellent: the London Street
Bistro (see page 34) always has it in stock.
Imported beers are popular amongst young, wealthy
urbanites, and you should never have too much trouble
finding the major international brands: Heineken, Carlsberg, Peroni, Leffe, Hoegaarden and Stella Artois are all
popular in Romania. And while imported beer is usually
a couple of lei more expensive than the local stuff, no
beer in Romania is likely to cost more than 10-12 lei, even
in a club or trendy bar. A pint (or the local equivalent)
of local draught (la halba) beer costs from 7-8 lei, often
even cheaper. The one exception is Guinness. Found all
over the country (it is very popular amongst Romanians)
it is also relatively expensive.
Key Romanian words on the beer front include la halba
(draught) and la sticla (bottled). In most bars and restaurants the menu lists draught and bottled beers separately.
Bucharest Basics
Bucharest Basics
elected for a maximum of two five-year terms. Suspended
twice by parliament, Basescu has survived two impeachment referendums, but his second term in office finally ends
in December of this year. The election to choose his successor will be held over two rounds in November.
Executive power in Romania is held by the government, led by the prime minister, currently Victor Ponta.
Ponta, the leader of the nominally socialist PSD, has been
in post (as the head of no fewer than four different governments) since May 2012. Ponta is currently the front runner in
the presidential race with his main opponent in Novembers
election likely to be the Liberal Partys Klaus Iohannis, erstwhile mayor of Sibiu.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF BUCHAREST

Bucharest is a relatively new city: mention of it is not made
until 1459, as one of the residences of Vlad III (the Impaler),
ruler of Wallachia. The exact origins of the city are therefore
unknown. Folklore has it that a shepherd, Bucur, founded
the city, but a more likely candidate is Radu Voda (also
known as Radu Negru), ruler of Wallachia from c. 12901300.
It was under Vlad the Impaler that the city grew to any real
size, when it became the preferred site of the Wallachian
court. This was based in what is today known as the Old
Town, around the Curtea Veche. The city was sacked for
the first time in 1476 by the Moldavian ruler Stephen the
Great (Stefan cel Mare), and again by the Turks in 1554.
During Mihai Bravus uprising against the Turks in 1594,
Bucharest was all but destroyed in heavy fighting. It was
not until the reign of Wallachian prince Matei Basarab in
the 1640s that the city fully recovered, and the princely
court rebuilt. Sacked again in 1655 (by the Transylvanians)
Bucharest suffered plague and famine for much of the rest
of the 1600s.
It was the accession to the Wallachian throne of Constantin
Brancoveanu in 1688 which changed Bucharests fortunes.
Brancoveanu negotiated alliances with the Hapsburgs and
Russians - keeping the Turks at bay - while overseeing a
cultural renaissance at home. The Turks finally got the better of Brancoveanu in 1714: ordered to Constantinople to
account for himself he was beheaded by Sultan Ahmed III.
No longer trusting local Wallachian princes to serve their interests, the Turks instead appointed a long line of Greek administrators to rule the principality. Known as the Phanariots (they came from the Greek district of Constantinople,
Phanar) they would rule over Bucharest until 1821. During
this time the city grew in size and importance, despite regular disasters: there were major earthquakes in 1802, 1804
and 1812, while plague returned in 1813-14. As many as
40,000 people died in Wallachia during the plague.
While still nominally a Turkish province, the Peace of Adrianople which ended the Russo-Turkish war of 1828-9 left
TOILETS
Wallachia (and Bucharest with it) under Russian occupation. Fortunately, the general the Russians appointed to
govern Bucharest, Pavel Kiseleff, was an enlightened man
who during his 14 years in charge of the city (1829-1843)
oversaw sweeping changes.
In January 1859, at the Hotel Concordia on Strada
Smardan, Wallachias nascent parliament elected Alexandru Ioan Cuza as the principalitys new ruler. Given that
the Moldavian parliament had elected the same man to
be their leader a few days before, the vote at the Concordia
in effect created the first state of Romania. Bucharest grew
- and flourished - during the reign of Carol I (1866-1914),
Romanias first king. Electricity was introduced in 1882, and
the city hosted a grand exhibition, Romania in the World,
in 1906. The Carol Park in southern Bucharest was built to
host the fair.
During the 1920s and 1930s Bucharest was one of Europes
most dynamic, and architecturally avant-garde cities. Large
numbers of art deco buildings were constructed around
the city. Bucharest was heavily bombed during the latter part of World War II, but in comparison with much of
Europe, the city was relatively unscathed. The communist
authorities therefore initially made their mark on the city
not by rebuilding it but by greatly extending it. The citys
population doubled from 900,000 at the end of World War
II to 1.8 million in 1980.
In 1977 the biggest earthquake in the citys history killed
more than 1,500 people. Many buildings were destroyed
or damaged beyond repair, and Romanias leader Nicolae
Ceausescu took the opportunity to remodel the city in his
own vision. By 1989 almost a fifth of Bucharest had been
destroyed to make way for the new Centru Civic. Bucharest
was the scene of the heaviest fighting during the Romanian Revolution of 1989, most of which centred on Piata
Revolutiei, Piata Universitatii, the TVR building and Otopeni
Airport. Since the revolution Bucharest has continued to
grow, although much of that growth has been outside the
city limits. The population of the city proper in fact peaked
in 2000, at 2.3 million: it is officially now down to 1.9 million
(2011 census).
The only decent public toilets in town are those at Gara de

Nord (for which you have to pay, 1 leu). You will find free portaloos around the city but these should be used only by the
very desperate. Otherwise, find the nearest McDonalds and
make use of their loos. Note, however, that entrance to some
McDonalds toilets in Bucharest is protected with a four-digit
code, which you will get when you buy something.
SO WHERE AM I?
Bucharest, capital of Romania. Situated in that part of
the world which will - to those of a certain age - always
be known as Eastern Europe, it would be more accurate
to describe Bucharests geographical location as southeastern Europe.
Founded, legend has it, in the 14th century, Bucharest is
in that part of Romania known as Wallachia, one of the
three historic principalities which make up the modern
country (the others are Moldavia and Transylvania).
The official population of Bucharest is just under two
million, but as many migrants from the rest of the country do not bother to register as citizens of the capital,
the true number is thought to be closer to three million.
Bucharest is close to the Danube (which is just 69 kilometres to the south), the border between Romania and
Bulgaria. The main crossing point is at Giurgiu, linked by
a bridge with Ruse, the Bulgarian town on the other side
of the river, whose pleasant centre is well worth a day
trip. Alas you will need a car, as train services between
Bucharest and Ruse (and the rest of Bulgaria) are poor.
Bucharest is around 240 kilometres from Constanta and
the Black Sea coast, and now that the A2 motorway goes
all the way to the Black Sea port, the journey can be done
in just over two hours. The train service to Constanta is
slightly faster. To the north of Bucharest is Ploiesti - the
centre of Romanias oil industry, and beyond that the
Carpathian Mountains, a two hour drive away.
15
Restaurants
Restaurants
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning
N Credit cards not accepted
T Child-friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
L Guarded parking E Live music

G No smoking
B Outside seating
S Take away
W Wifi
AMERICAN
CHAMPIONS
Still serving one of the very best burgers in Bucharest
(you can choose one or design your own from an endless
choice of toppings), a fact undisputed by anyone weve
ever met. It is also one of the biggest. In fact, now we think
of it, the portions of everything here are enormous: even
the childrens servings are very healthy indeed. Besides
the burgers you will find a great selection of American
pub food, as well as Tex Mex treats and even some more
refined, slow food options. Famously good cocktails, and
more televisions showing sport than you could ever hope
for. Find it in the Marriott: up the stairs as you go in and
to your right.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 17,
www.championsrestaurant.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
PTLSW
HARD ROCK CAFE
One of the largest Hard Rocks in Europe, you cant go
wrong here, whatever time of day you visit. Come for
lunch with the kids (who are always well looked after, and
have their own menu), dinner with the crowd from work or
late drinks and live music with your mates. All things to all
people the burgers and ribs are a cut above the usual, desserts are as outsized and sweet as they should be, and the
service comes from smiley waitresses and expert bar staff.
We love it. Lets rock.QA-2, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021
206 62 61, www.hardrock.com/bucharest. Open 12:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PTLESW
ASIAN
THE GANG RESTAURANT
The Gang has moved to a new location - closer to the centre of town than before - and is, dare we say it, better than
ever. The food - a genuine fusion of flavours - is sensational
in every way: invention, taste, presentation and quality of
ingredients. The jumbo prawns with cauliflower for example: where else will you find such a combination in
this town? The place itself is nicely done out: we loved the
white wooden floors in particular. Top selection of wines
too, courtesy of Ethic Wine. In a word, recommended.QStr.
Alecu Russo 4, tel. (+4) 0721 51 22 91. Open 12:00 03:00. . PLESW
BRITISH
THE TRAFALGAR PUB Popular with all sorts of expats
who have a regular rendezvous here, this place is a pub
and bistro in one, where you can get a decent meal for
little money while enjoying usually decent company. The
menu has a few British dishes - we can recommend the
Spinach and Stilton Pie - but best of all we like the ciorba
de vacuta - one of the best in the city, and the ciolan cu
varza - pork knuckle with cabbage and beans. Guinness on
draught at a decent price. Accepts Amex: not everywhere
in Bucharest does.QC-4, Str. David Emmanuel 4A, tel.
(+4) 021 211 31 51, www.trafalgarpub.eu. Open 12:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PLVESW
CHINESE
RESTAURANT NAN JING Dating back to 1980s this little piece of Bucharest foodie history was the first Chinese
restaurant in the land. It is still one of the best, as its longevity (no mean feat in a city where good eateries come
and go fast) testifies. Prices are reasonable, the setting is
good, with a nice covered terrace overlooking busy Bulevardul Lascar Cartagiu. You will find the Nan Jing on the
ground floor of the Minerva hotel. On weekday afternoons
from 14:00-17:00 their Happy Lunch offers a 50 per cent
discount.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4, MPiata Victoriei/Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 318 12 85/(+4) 0726 10
34 07, www.restaurantnanjing.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
. PLVBSW
FOOD & DRINK

What do we mean by Food & Drink? Simple: places in which
you could just as easily sit down and have a three course
meal as you could spend a night on the beer or cocktails.
18 LOUNGE On the 18th floor of one of the tallest office
buildings in the city, this place doesnt need to serve decent
food to attract clients: fortunately, it does. More than just a
restaurant the lunch is a great deal, and late in the evening
it becomes a smooth, relaxed pace to hang out. It is also a
self-declared anti-fitze establishment (much like its sister locations in the centre of town) and the vibe is always a little
trendy but never kitsch. We like it.QA-1, P-ta Presei Libere
3-5, tel. (+4) 0733 50 14 01, www.18lounge.ro. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:30. . PLW
EMBASSY The central and original Embassy (there are a
couple of spin-offs in town) has been around a few years
now, and in this city longevity alone is a sign of how good it
is. Serving a good gourmet burger - widely regarded as one
of the citys best - and much else besides (including some
great cocktails) it is the kind of place that grows on you as
the evening wears on, and in all likeliness you will stay until
very late. We usually do.QC-4, P-ta Lahovari 8, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 00, www.embassy-club.
ro. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Mon 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 03:00. . SW
LA BELLE EPOQUE
A big, bright and open-plan Belgian beer cafe on Radu
Beller in Dorobanti. There are plenty of Belgian beers on
offer - with Stella, Leffe and Hoegaarden available on tap
- as well as more than a few nice Belgian touches in and
around the bar. While the food is more local than Belgian,
it is very good, they serve pots of mussels, and the dessert
menu is something of a legend.QB-2, Str. Radu Beller 6,
tel. (+4) 021 230 07 70, www.labelleepoque.ro. Open
11:30 - 24:00. Last orders 23:00. . PIBW
THE HARBOUR A top location, in Piata Amzei, with
food to match, as well as friendly and efficient staff. The
atmosphere is relaxing, the food better than average,
though the real joy of this place is its view to the market.
We came here for lunch recently and were stunned by
how many foreigners were eating here: it must be one of
the most popular tourist and visitor spots in town.QB-4,
P-ta Amzei 10-22, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 319 72
57/(+4) 0724 38 86 86, www.harbour.ro. Open 11:30 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. . PLVSW
FRENCH
ESCARGOT BISTRO Bucharest foodies: this is the place
for you. A little non-descript from the outside, it is a sensational French restaurant where the love and care the chef
has for his food oozes onto your plate. Duck that takes 48
hours to prepare, an onion soup of the like weve never
eaten in Bucharest, fresh snails, outstanding wines and all
served in minimalist surroundings: the food is king here.

Lovely terrace in the right weather.QD-4, Str. Toamnei
101, tel. (+4) 0746 79 50 29, www.escargot.ro. Open
17:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. . SW
ICI ET LA As regular readers will know we are suckers for
an open kitchen, and that is what we have here: sit and
watch the chef and owner prepare your gorgeous homemade French meal. They are rather proud of their smoked
salmon here (and rightly so) and the wine list features
plenty of affordable grape. Top it all off with the magnificent creme brulee.QC-4, Str. Mendeleev 43, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 0731 45 36 08/(+4) 0731 35 26 08,
www.icietla.ro. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. .
PVEBSW
ICONIC FOOD WINE & DESIGN BY CAMELIA
SUCU This place is the work of David Contant, a chef for
whom no Bucharest foodie will need an introduction: he
has been creating consistently brilliant food for years. This
latest Contant creation is indeed an icon in the making, an
eatery in the middle of a design showroom for which he
has teamed up with local entrepreneur Camelia Sucu. Expect superb, beautifully presented and supremely healthy
food, served in an environment which implores you stick
around and indulge a little. Theres a wine bar on the
premises too, whose stock is one of the citys best.QB-3,
Aleea Alexandru 7, tel. (+4) 0720 33 35 50/(+4) 021 230
08 77, www.iconic-fwd.ro. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. . PLSW
17
Restaurants
Restaurants
LATELIER LART CULINAIRE

This is a restaurant where art means putting together original dishes of the highest order, all prepared by the amazing
head chef. American Black Angus beef cooked in a Cabernet
sauce and served with potato and back truffle puree: you
will not find such things on too many menus in Bucharest.
For those of you who like your desserts, the lemon cake with
caremelized meringue and homemade ice cream is a dream
come true. Find it in the Hotel Epoque: it is as fine and elegant
as the hotel itself.QB-5, Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C (Epoque
Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 312 32 32, www.latelier-restaurant.
ro. Open 12:00 23:00. . PLBSW
BARKA SAFFRON
We have been coming here since the last century, when
there was precious little choice in Bucharest for people
wanting something a little different; a little more spicy.
Now there is plenty of choice but we still trot up to Barka
whenever we can. On our last visit we went for the lamb
with spinach in tomato sauce which was as good as we had
hoped. The onion bhajis remain Bucharests best. First class
cocktail list, and regular live music and arty events. Also of
note is that the owner has his own buffalo farm in Transylvania, and sells fantastic buffalo telemea cheese here at the
restaurant.QA-2, Str. Av. Sntescu 1, tel. (+4) 021 224 10
04. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . ESW
FUSION
BISTRO MON CHER One of those places that merits

praise simply for having been around for so long. Weve
been coming here for years, and have always loved the
welcoming atmosphere and simple, tasty bistro food.
There is something for everyone, from sandwiches for the
lunchtime crowd to good coffee and even hot chocolate
for the kids.QB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 20-28, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 021 211 46 98. Open 08:00 - 06:00.
. PVSW
LOFT LOUNGE
It might be too fashionable for some tastes, but the truth
is the food is amongst the best in the land, cooked by perhaps the best chef in the country. Its not just us who say so
either: ask anybody in the city who knows their food and
you get the same reply: its brilliant. Inventive and magnificent food (seafood dominates), cooked to perfection. The
squid served with risotto, for example: it sounds so simple
yet its a taste sensation. Not cheap of course, but worth
the cost.QC-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 56-60, MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0756 38 56 38, www.loftlounge.
ro. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. .
PLESW
GERMAN
DIE DEUTSCHE KNEIPE
Really, one of our favourite places in Bucharest, now as
ever (and it has been around for more than 18 years, since
1996). Serving giant portions of great German sausages (all
made on the premises) as well as huge pork knuckles, kraut
and the like, they keep the prices down and their punters
very happy. You usually need a reservation at weekends.
Good place for a simple pint of German beer too.QC-3,
Str. Stockholm 9, tel. (+4) 021 233 94 62/(+4) 0722 28 45
60, www.diedeutschekneipe.ro. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Sat
14:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. . PNSW
INDIAN
KARISHMA
A good Indian-in-Bucharest option where the menu
boasts no fewer than 10 lamb dishes: a rare treat in these
parts where the raw material is so hard to find. There is
much more besides of course, including an extensive
range of vegetarian food, and the chefs will happily
tone down (or up) all dishes according to your spice tolerance levels. The place itself is nice and the staff know
their stuff.QD-5, Str. Iancu Capitanu 36, tel. (+4) 021
252 51 57, www.karishma.ro. Open 13:00 - 24:00. .
PVEBSW
INTERNATIONAL
BARBIZON STEAK HOUSE
Found at the Pullman, this is probably the best eatery
weve been to so far at this particular top-notch hotel. As
you would expect, steaks top the bill, and what steaks!
All the beef is shipped in fresh from South America, and
though prices reflect the quality you will not argue at the
end of the evening. Good wine list (we like the inclusion of
Moldovan wines) and an open kitchen is always welcome.
Great steak-based Saturday brunch: La Boucherie.QP-ta
Montreal 10 (Pullman Bucharest World Trade Center), tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00/(+4) 021 202 16 35, www.
pullmanhotels.com. Open 12:00 - 15:30, 18:00 - 23:30.
Saturday Brunch 11:30-15:30, 190 lei/pers, 90 lei children. Kids under 10 free. . PLW
CHEZ MARIE Popular with the crowd from the UK

embassy, including the ambassador himself, Chez Marie
serves perhaps the widest variety of dishes you are likely
to find in a Bucharest restaurant. Both the steak with gorgonzola and the beef stroganoff are top efforts, while we
have long thought that the goulash is one of Bucharests
very best. Good drinks list and the place itself is rather nice.
QC-4, Str. Dionisie Lupu 48, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4)
031 107 20 33, www.chezmarie.ro. Open 11:00 - 24:00.
. PLSW
COLLAGE
Opposite the Peasant Museum this is a designer restaurant, lounge and bar where white furniture is in abundance, from the tables to the white leather sofas. Opens
early enough to be a breakfast venue for late-risers, and
lets face it, the kind of people who come here are not
your average nine to five crowd. Its arty, its smart and it
has just the right amount of attitude. Lounge that stays
open until 03:00 at weekends.QA-3, B-dul Ion Mihalache 10-12, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0758 10 10
40, www.collageworld.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. .
PLEW
DONCAFE BRASSERIE
Magnificent place just off Piata Dorobanti. Open early for
breakfast (they do a decent English fry and delicious pain
chocolat) its busy throughout the day, catering to lunching ladies and business types as well as a trendy crowd
in the evenings. Great salads, a good range of homemade
pasta (and we mean homemade: it is put together on the
premises), a terrific osso bucco and a divine cheese cake are
our fave dishes from the menu. You go pick your own.QB3, Str. Ankara 7, tel. (+4) 0746 22 24 44, www.doncafebrasserie.ro. Open 08:30 - 24:00. . PLSW
19
Restaurants
Restaurants
NEW
SALON GOLESCU Gorgeous little place close to the Hilton which will have you cooing with delight the moment
you walk in. Sit yourself at one of the tables, the bar, or a
leather armchair and order from a rather eclectic menu of
very good food. There are good tapas, while we thought
the best of the main dishes were the super Thai fishcakes.
There is a good cocktail list, loads of excellent whisky
and the wine list is exceptional if rather expensive.QC-4,
Str. Nicolae Golescu 17, tel. (+4) 031 436 03 38, www.
salongolescu.ro. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00,
Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. . PESW
TEATRO Teatro is so-called because the Novotel stands
on the former site of Bucharests National Theatre, the
hotels main restaurant is open to all for breakfast, lunch
or dinner. Good, inventive food (the menu changes regularly) served in bright, colourful surroundings, with a nice
terrace when the weather allows.QB-4, Calea Victoriei
37B (Novotel Bucharest City Centre), MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 308 85 30, www.novotel.com. Open 06:00
- 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:00, 190 lei/pers, free
for children under 12. . PTULGW
GARGANTUA Bright and airy place that gloriously lets

the light in through its huge windows. Fine food, including a luscious fried brie with onion marmelade, an outstanding chicken and artichoke salad, a couple of duck
dishes and good steaks. Prices are more than fair given the
location, setting and quality of food. Find it on the corner
of Stradas Calderon and Verona.QC-5, Str. J.L. Calderon
69, tel. (+4) 0726 55 56 93, www.restaurantgargantua.
ro. Open 09:00 - 01:00. . PVBSW
LA BRASSERIE Redesigned and reinvented, La Brasserie
is now less about fine dining (pop over to The Vinyard - see
page 21, opposite - for that) and more about good quality,
simple food for all the family. The menu is available buffetstyle or a-la-carte, and makes a great choice for families or
groups on the run. The wine list remains a work of art and
the atmosphere is now cosier than ever.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.
laveranda.ro. Open 06:00 - 24:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30
- 16:30, 177 lei/pers, children between six and 12 years
half price, children under six free. . PEGSW
LA CONAC Weve eaten here a number of times, and on
each occasion weve left with that rather satisfying feeling
which comes from paying far less than you really ought to
for some very good food. La Conac (Conac means Manor
House in Romanian) is a warm, welcoming restaurant with
a huge variety of dishes, all of which hit the spot. Its rare
that such an ambitious menu delivers top quality consistently, but La Conac pulls it off. The place itself is a delight,
set over a number of levels, with a big, popular terrace

out front in the warmer months.QD-5, B-dul Pache Protopopescu 38, tel. (+4) 0737 85 11 03, www.conaculnobil.ro. Open 10:00 - 23:00. . PLBSW
THE VINYARD The feather in the Crowne Plazas cap, this

is now the hotels flagship restaurant, a work of great detail
where everything is lovingly prepared by exec chef Ashlie
Dias - who has been here for years - and his highly experienced team. Based around Mediterranean cuisine you can
always expect to find something exotic and a bit different
on the daring menu, and a number of the dishes require
waiter or audience - thats you, diner - participation. An
indulgent treat.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza),
tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.crowneplaza.ro. Open
18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. . PEW
PHILL Something of a sensation this place, both in terms

of design and concept. Its avant garde to the point of
being futuristic, and yet unlike so many upmarket restaurants this one positively welcomes families with children.
Indeed, so welcome are kids that they have play areas and
people to look after the kids while you enjoy the food.
Which is another reason to come here: this is a culinary
journey around the world. Not one great cuisine has been
left out, and in our experience they get everything right.
There is way too much to mention more than a couple of
the great dishes we tried: the squid ink risotto, the seafood
stew and simple pleasure of new Zealand lamb chops. Go
there.QStr. Drumul Potcoavei 120, tel. (+4) 0743 17 20
03, office@phill.ro, www.phill.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
Closed Mon. . PTLVSW
UPTOWN BAR & GRILL Uptown indeed. In the wealthiest part of the wealthiest part of the city, the citys wealthiest people come here to eat. The real draw is the enclosed
terrace which means you can eat al fresco even when its
raining outside. The food is good, a mix of Italian-esque and
modern European dishes, which share a menu with an excellent wine list. Prices not cheap but value for money very
high. Make sure you reserve well in advance or turn up with
a local celebrity if you want a table on the terrace.QB-3, Str.
Rabat 2, tel. (+4) 021 231 40 77, www.uptown.ro. Open
10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. . PLBSW
RESTAURANT 1880 One of the best hotel-based restaurants in the city is this bright, smart place at the Capital Plaza.
The interiors are amongst the most striking in Bucharest, and
the food more than matches the surroundings. We adored
the celery soup with scallops, while the seafood risotto was
as good as any weve eaten in Romania. Well worth a trip.
QC-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 54, MStefan cel Mare,
tel. (+4) 0372 08 00 80, www.restaurant1880.ro. Open
12:00 - 23:00. . PBSW
NEW
ALT SHIFT
When you walk in you immediately see why this place is
the current choice of many designers and arty types: the
interior is as contemporary as it gets, the high ceilings giving the place the feel of a New York loft. The food is much
like the place itself: contemporary with a traditional twist,
and with plenty for vegetarians to enjoy. Found above our
favourite Bucharest club, Control, the place stays open -
ITALIAN
21
Restaurants
with a limited menu - into the early hours on club nights
for those hungry clubbers looking for snacks.QC-5, Str.
Constantin Mille 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 98 02
25, www.altshift.ro. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 06:00. . PW
CAFFE CITTA
Styled as a Northern Italian city centre cafe/bistro the emphasis here is on good, simple, urban food. Try the risotto
with saffron, the saltim bocca and the tiramisu: all signature dishes and all done to perfection. The drinks menu
is a bit special: go for the apple mojito (as delicious as it
sounds) or try any number of great wines, all available
by the glass. Keep the kids happy with the freshly made
ice cream.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu),
tel. (+4) 021 601 34 36/(+4) 021 311 90 00, caffecitta.
bucharest@radissonblu.com, www.caffe-citta.ro. Open
11:00 - 23:30. . PLGBW
CAPRICCIOSA
A bustling Italian restaurant and pizzeria whose menu is a
veritable dictionary of pizza. They even do truffles and, lets
face it, you dont see those every day on a menu in Bucharest. Well worth making the journey uptown for both the
food and the atmosphere, which demonstrates that top
restaurants dont have to be fitze.QB-dul Ion Ionescu de
la Brad 2, tel. (+4) 021 233 06 35/(+4) 0722 22 47 99, (+)
0723 26 90 30, www.restaurantcapricciosa.ro. Open
12:00 - 24:00. . PLSW
CASA DI DAVID
You can say what you like about this legendary, high-class
place (and most people in Bucharest have some kind of
opinion), but to us it remains a very nice place to spend the
evening, especially if the weather is good and you can sit
outside away from the television screens. The food is ristorante Italian with a twist (the duck breast with citrus fruits
is our pick of the current menu) and outstandingly good,
with enough fish dishes to make it appealing to sea food
lovers. Staff are good and the wine list a cracker.QB-1,
Sos. Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4) 021 232 47 15/(+4) 0722 26
93 60, www.casadidavid.ro. Open 12:30 - 23:30. .
PLESW
CUCINA Bright and breezy, Cucina at the JW Marriott is a
wonderful Italian restaurant where you can find probably
the best (and perhaps only) butterfish steak in the city.
All of the other fine Italian dishes are equally memorable, and note that all of the pasta is homemade on the
premises No fewer than 26 good Italian reds grace the
wine menu.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott
Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 02, www.
cucinarestaurant.ro. Open 12:30 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00,
Sun 18:00 - 23:00. . PLESW
GRANO An Italian the likes of which many of the other
so-called Italian restaurants in Bucharest can only dream
of becoming. Serving simple yet delicious food - such
as the saffron risotto - that will have you telling all your
Restaurants
friends to come here, you can also buy many of the special
ingredients they use in their little shop. Oh, and did we
mention the chocolate cake?QC-3, Str. Putul lui Zamfir
40, tel. (+4) 0731 14 81 87, www.grano.ro. Open 09.30
- 23.00, Mon 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 10.00 - 23.00. .
PESW
MODIGLIANI PASTA/CARNE
Amazingly good Italian restaurant which simply knocks
our socks off every time we come. Boasting top chef Alfonso Salvaggio in the kitchen, there is a new menu and the
Italian stakes continue to get ratcheted up another notch,
all to the benefit of us diners. All the pasta here is made
fresh, the meat is the finest Argentine and Scottish beef or
New Zealand lamb, the giant prawns come from Indonesia
and the wine is a selection of the best the world has to
offer. There is usually a pianist too. We love the place.QC5, Str. Batistei 9 (InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 0730 64 48 06, www.restaurantmodigliani.com.
Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. . PLBW
LUNCH & EARLY EVENING

BE NAT Light and spacious diner overlooking Piata
Victoriei serving excellent value hot lunches, salads,
tea, coffee and cakes. Look out for the daily specials,
while - if they have it - the gazpacho is as good as
any in the city. Sit upstairs for the best views of the
street below.QA-4, B-dul Nicolae Titulescu 4-8,
MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 031 437 96 03, www.
benat.ro. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. .
PVGSW
BOUTIQUE DU PAIN Everything you want from a citycentre eatery and a lot more. This is in fact more bistro than
anything, serving breakfast, lunch and evening meals in
fresh, bright surroundings. The selection of morning pastries is the best in the city, with office workers going out of
their way to stop here for fresh supplies. For lunch there
is a range of sandwiches hard to beat anywhere else, and
the small selection of hot meals of an evening - the menu
changes daily - are perfect for a casual dinner. QC-5, Str.
Academiei 28-30, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 44 33
00, www.boutiquedupain.com. Open 08:30 - 22:00,
Sun 8:30 - 20:00. . PSW
OMNIVORES DILEMMA Brilliant! Tiny place serving the best cooked lunch in central Bucharest. There
are just a few dishes to choose from each day: ask the
staff whats good, hand over a pittance and try and
bag a seat at one of the tables (there are only three or
four). You can take away if there is no space. The kind
of place Bucharest needs loads more of.QB-4, Calea
Victoriei 214, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 212 56
66, www.omnivores.ro. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. . PVGSW
ROBERTOS
A fabulous place. Boasting a large open kitchen, three distinct dining areas and a private dining room, Robertos also
has a fantastic resident chef: Marco Magri. The food is classical Italian, with the menu boasting the best dishes from a
number of the countrys regions. Its not cheap, but prices
reflect the high quality, and note that the lunchtime set
menu is in fact very competitively priced. In a nutshell, its
worth every penny: this is one of the top five restaurants
in the land.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77. Open 06:30 - 10:00, 12:00
- 23:00. . PTGSW
TRATTORIA DON VITO RISTORANTE
They get a lot right here, not least the bean soup that is
a meal in itself. Excellent salads, and the seafood-packed
signature Don Vito pasta was memorable. There is pizza
too, the sweets are delicious and the place itself is decked
out well without ever overdoing it. Well worth a look. Note
that downstairs is a totally non-smoking section. Commendable.QC-4, Str. Mendeleev 1, MPiata Romana,
tel. (+4) 0735 33 30 21, www.trattoriadonvito.ro. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PSW
VINOTECA OPERA
Facing Bucharests Opera House (albeit across a large,
busy square) this is a very good seafood and Italian restaurant serving as wide a range of fishy treats as you will
find in Bucharest. The mussels are good value at 32 lei
for a half kilo portion, while the tuna steak was equally
impressive (and at 49 lei not as expensive as other places
in town). Good selection of non-seafood meals, and the

wine list is first class, offering something for all pockets.QA-6, Dr. Lister 1, MEroilor, tel. (+4) 0749 99 66
22, www.vinotecaopera.ro. Open 11:00 - 23:00. .
PLVSW
JAPANESE
YOSHI
Sushi and teppanyaki - and more besides - at the best new
Japanese restaurant to open in Bucharest for some time.
Located in upmarket Dorobanti it is not cheap (good Japanese food rarely is) but it is very good and the set-menu
at lunchtime is excellent value. The place itself is spacious
and very contemporary, and the perfect setting for a meal
of this quality.QStr. Banul Antonache 40-44, tel. (+4)
0749 97 95 21, www.restaurantyoshi.ro. Open 12:00 00:00. . PVSW
LEBANESE
CHEZ TONI
Terrific Lebanese food in the leafy, away-from-it-all setting
of the Pescariu Tennis and Sports Club. All your Middle Eastern favourites are here, from Antaki, Adana and Beiti kebabs
to sujuk (those tangy, spicy little sausages) and simple yet
perfectly grilled sea bass (and a ton of other fresh fish).
Everything is cooked by the resident Lebanese chef.QC-2,
Str. Glodeni 3, tel. (+4) 021 242 02 04/(+4) 0740 00 78
78, office@cheztoni.ro, www.cheztoni.ro. Open 12:00 24:00. . PLBSW
23
Restaurants
FOUR SEASONS DOROBANTI
From the same people who have long been serving some
of the best Lebanese food in the city at their Vasile Lascar
location comes Four Seasons Dorobanti, a more upmarket
place to indulge yourself. The food is fabulous and features
the full range of Lebanese food, including the best selection of mezze in the city. There are grilled meats and fish
too, while vegetarians will also find plenty to tempt them
with. Make sure you try the superb Lebanese yoghurt made with mint and garlic - and the amazing homemade
lemonade.QB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 177, tel. (+4) 021
233 94 31, www.four-seasons.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Also at (C-4) Str. Vasile Lascar 81, tel.
(+40) 21 212 29 92. . PBSW
ZAITOONE What have lovers of Lebanese food done to
deserve so much quality choice? Here is another winner, a
spacious, elegant place and the food more than lives up
to the surroundings. There are loads of goods mezze, and
the grilled meats and kebabs are exemplary. For dessert,
the katayef are delicious: they even do a small portion if
you cant handle the full one! Oh, and note that they accept Amex cards (not many places in Bucharest do). Lovely
lakeside terrace which is fully enclosed at this time of year
and open in all weathers.QB-1, Str. Nicolae Caramfil 2,
tel. (+4) 0737 29 99 00, www.zaitoone.ro. Open 12:00 24:00. . PLVBSW
MEDIEVAL
CRAMA TEMPLIERILOR A medieval extravanganza
of a restaurant where you can sit at wooden tables - including a round one, just like King Arthur - and tuck
into massive portions of all your medieval favourites,
from pork knuckles to home-made sausages and juicy
steaks. There is live music most nights from a top taraf
band, and its very difficult not to have a good time here.
Groups especially will love it, and your kids will too.QB5, B-dul Mihail Kogalniceanu 3, tel. (+4) 021 311 63 60,
www.cramatemplierilor.ro. Open 12:00 - 02:00. .
PVESW
MEDITERRANEAN
CERISIERS We attended a Christening at this place recently, and were blown away by the quality of the food:
really outstanding. The seafood and fish dishes are the
best of whats on the menu, but there is more than that to
enjoy: try the cracking salads or the beef carpaccio.QA-2,
Str. Al. Constantinescu 33, tel. (+4) 0722 59 98 05/(+4)
0372 15 06 00, www.restaurantcerisiers.ro. Open 12:00
- 24:00. . PLBSW
JOSEPH BY JOSEPH HADAD Looking for gems such
as a homemade ravioli with fillet of sea bass? Then get
yourself here. This is an outstanding place in every way:
not only is the food sensational - the menu is mainly Mediterranean but there is more than a hint of France too - but
the villa in which it is served is also something of a Bucha24 Bucharest In Your Pocket
rest treasure. In brief, this is as good as modern, contemporary dining gets in this city and a visit here is worth every
penny (speaking of which, the set two-course lunch is a
bargain).QB-2, Str. Prof. Dr. Ioan Cantacuzino 8, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 0753 99 93 33, www.josephrestaurant.
ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLSW
SHARKIA Sharkia blows in to the Radisson like the eponymous wind and brings with it some top class dining at
the hotels latest restaurant. In place of Le Bistro what we
have here is a dining room where the focus is on Eastern
Mediterranean food, the freshest seasonal ingredients and
supremely healthy eating. You can feast on a great range
of dishes from across the region, there are some fine wines
and its all done with that magical Radisson swish.QB-4,
Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021 311 90
00. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PLG
TAPO Something new and different, and well worth the
taxi ride from the city centre, this is a late-night, clubby restaurant for the citys most happening people, where you
come to eat and end up staying for something of a party
well into the early hours (it is in the same complex as Barletto). As such, the place could probably serve up a load of
old tosh and still be popular: fortunately, with Florin Dumitrescu in the kitchen (one of Romanias best-known chefs)
you can rest assured the amazing food warrants a visit all
on its own.QD-2, Str. Oltetului 30, tel. (+4) 0747 08 30 83,
www.tapo.ro. Open 11:00 - 04:00. . PLBW
MODERN EUROPEAN
CAFE ATHENEE We love it. This is Bucharests village
pub, where the city comes to meet and have a terrific
breakfast, lunch or early dinner. The new breakfast menu
offers something for everyone, from a full English to nasi
goreng, while the legendary Hilton burger remains one
of the best in the city. There is also a bites menu of substantial finger food for executive snacking, and a bigger,
wider range of beers, wines and cocktails then ever, which
is why it is now as popular as an after-work venue as it is at
lunchtime.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.com.
Open 08:00-20:00. . PESW
HERASTRAU DINING
The northern side of Herastrau Park (along the shore
of lake) is a whole string of restaurants, the vast majority of which are expensive places that are often packed
with the citys welthiest, most fashionable and trendy
people. The best-known venues are Ago, Casa di David, La Brasserie, Isoletta, Harem, The Embassy Park,
La Fattoria and seafood joint Cherhaneaua Ancora.
Note that because of a bizarre quirk in the way properties in Bucharest are numbered, all of these venues
have the same address: Soseaua Nordului 9-11.
Restaurants
Restaurants
CASA DOINA Alma mater of Romanian restaurants, an

integral part of the citys rich tapestry. This classy place
pulls in the cream of Bucharest society, served by charming, splendid waiters in smart dress. The food is superb,
and in a city where standards rise only to fall so often, Casa
Doina can be considered a paragon of consistency. The
location is worthy of the food, on posh Soseaua Kiseleff
in a quiet, leafy setting. The splendid terrace is a joy when
the weather allows.QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 4, tel. (+4) 021
222 67 17, www.casadoina.ro. Open 11:00 - 01:00. .
PLEBSW
PRIME STEAKS & SEAFOOD Boasting a menu put

together by Executive Chef Bernd Kirsch, who has been in
charge of the kitchen here since Prime opened more than
five years ago, what is perhaps Bucharests best restaurant
recently got better. Now serving the finest fillet steak in the
world (the Irish Hereford Prime - which we can tell you, as we
have eaten it, is amazing), we can also recommend the duet
of foie gras with raspberry mousse and caremelized pineapple, the grilled scallops and the lobster bisque. And just
about everything else. Its genuinely amazing this place, and
worth every last penny.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00/(+4) 021 601 34 02, www.
prime-restaurant.ro. Open 12:30-15.00, 18.00-23.00, Sat
18:00-23:00. Closed Sun. . PLG
PERU BISTRO Fed up with hearing about new dining

concepts in Bucharest which turn out to be nothing of the
sort? Well. here is something genuinely new and different:
Peruvian cuisine. A fusion of South American and Asian
you will find superb beef and pork steaks on the menu
alongside some good fish. We were blown away by the
beef served in a slightly spicy orange sauce (lomo salsa aji)
while the Leche assado is the perfect desert. The place itself
is very nice: a large villa in the leafy north of the city. with
a huge, gorgeous terrace at the rear.QA-2, Str. Aviator Petre Creu 63, tel. (+4) 0744 62 42 97, www.perubistro.ro.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLVBSW
MOLDOVAN
ROMANIAN
LA PLACINTE Popular Moldovan chain of eateries (there

are more than 10 of these restaurants in Chisinau) comes
to the centre of Bucharest. Charmingly decorated in a brilliant mix of traditional and hip you will love it the moment
you walk in. The food is good, and as the name suggests
(placinte means pies) there is a big range of pie on offer:
potatoe pie, cheese pie, pumpkin pie and even apple pie.
They are all good, made fresh (so you might have to wait
a bit) and come served piping hot. There is much else besides, including the entirely recommended pelmeni.QB-4,
B-dul Dacia 20, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 031 410 80
21, www.laplacinte.ro. Open 10.00 - 23.00. Also at (C-4)
Sos. Stefan Cel Mare 38. . PSW
Romanian food is really quite good. We have a wide selection of Bucharests best Romanian restaurants right here.
PERUVIAN
BISTRO LA TAIFAS
La Taifas means having a chat and thats exactly what
you and your friends will feel like doing at this tres jolie venue. We remain convinced that the original venue
behind the Hilton on Str. Episcopiei was better, but this
latest location is more spacious, and hosts more regular
musical soirees. The food is great, and booking is still essential.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 16, tel. (+4) 021 212
77 88, www.bistrotaifas.ro. Open 12:00 - 01:00. .
PLVESW
CORSO BRASSERIE & TERRACE We brought our

mother-in-law here recently to try out the sarmale, and
after careful consideration she admitted that they were
even better than her own: now thats high praise indeed.
In a top location on Bulevardul Magheru, if this place
doesnt occupy the very best people-watching spot in the
whole of the city, then we dont know where does. Open
for breakfast, lunch (usually an excellent-value buffet)
and dinner, it is seriously good. Oh, and then there is the
Sunday Brunch: currently the best in the city.QC-5, B-dul
Nicolae Blcescu 4 (Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 23:00, Sat 06:30 - 11:30, 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 11:00.
12:00 - 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 175 lei/pers,
children under six free, children between six and 12
half price. . PTLEBW
SMOKING
Romania is one of the last places in Europe where smokers are free to indulge in their filthy habit wherever and
whenever they like. Indeed, you can often get the impression in some venues that smoking is in fact obligatory. Neither is smoking the preserve of the old: young
Romanians smoke in alarmingly high numbers, oblivious
to the harm that they are doing both themselves and
others. Now, as a libertarian kind of publication, we in
fact welcome the Romanian approach to smoking as a
refreshing change from the puritanism found elsewhere
in the European Union. That said however, it would be
nice to go out for dinner without our clothes reeking
of cigarettes at the end of the night. As such, we have
made a point of highlighting those few, courageous Bucharest venues which ban smoking entirely (and there
is an increasingly high number). Look out for the nonsmoking symbol in our listings. By and large, however,
visitors to Bucharest will quicky disocover that they are
free to smoke themselves into an early grave just about
anywhere they like.
GOOD OLD TIMES (GOLDEN TULIP TIMES HOTEL) A very good restaurant indeed. Featuring a very good
range of Romanian and international dishes, the menu here
changes regularly, usually in time with the seasons. The
young chef is not afraid to try something new and different
and note that if you fancy something which is not on the
menu, dont be afraid to ask. Good local wine list. Note the
last kitchen order is at 22:30.QE-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16, www.restauranttimes.
ro. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PLGSW
HANU BERARILOR CASA SOARE Housed in the former Casa Bucur (a place you could write a book about) it is
a very good Romanian restaurant serving the kind of food
you only usually get in peoples homes. Seriously: only in
27
Restaurants
Restaurants
PRICE GUIDE
JEWISH BUCHAREST
Each of the restaurants featured in this edition of Bucharest In Your Pocket includes a rough guide as to how much
you should approximately expect to pay for a three-course
meal, with a decent local wine (if applicable):
CHORAL TEMPLE First built in 1857, then rebuilt in 1866

following its destruction in a pogrom, the red-brick Choral
Temple has a memorial in front of it that commemorates
the Romanian Jews sent to their deaths during the Holocaust. It is a copy of Viennas Leopoldstadt-Tempelgasse
Great Synagogue. Currently closed for renovation.QC-6,
Str. Sf. Vineri 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 312 21 96.
- Under 10 per person

- 10-20 per person
- 20-30 per person
- Over 30 per person
two or three other places in Bucharest will you find carnati

de oaie (mutton sausages) or bors de peste. If you are feeling really hungry go for the platou mioritic: a huge plate of
meaty treats.QB-6, Str. Poenaru Bordea 2, tel. (+4) 021
336 80 09, www.hanuberarilor.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. . PEBSW
LA COCOSATU We put out an appeal on our Facebook
fan page for the best mici in the city. The response was
immediate and overwhelming: Cocosatu uber alles. A bit
of a trek from the city centre (it is just around the corner
from the now closed Baneasa Airport) the mici here are
indeed the best we have tasted: big, tangy, made with
loads of mutton and a few spices for extra kick. The ultimate Bucharest mici experience, and all at peanuts prices.
QStr. Neagoe Voda 52 A, tel. (+4) 021 232 87 96, www.
lacocosatu.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. . PLSW
LOCANTA JARISTEA This is that rarity in Bucharest
(and indeed Romania): an upmarket Romanian restaurant.
The surroundings, location, exquisitely decorated dining
rooms, service and choice of high quality food will convince you of that. This is one of very few places in Romania
where you can enjoy an entire suckling pig (though note
that you will need to phone ahead and ask them to start
preparing it a day in advance) and sample some of the best
wines Romania produces.QB-6, Str. George Georgescu
50-52, tel. (+4) 021 335 33 38/(+4) 0721 96 19 36, www.
jaristea.ro. Open 11:00 - 24:00. . PLESW
JAZZ CLUBS
GREEN HOURS JAZZ CAF There is live jazz here
alongside other arty stuff - including theatre, comedy,
book launches and the like - most evenings. Popular
with a crowd that encompasses all ages, its definitely
a place you should visit once before leaving Bucharest.
QB-4, Calea Victoriei 120, tel. (+4) 0788 45 24 85/
(+4) 021 313 86 06, concerte@greenhours.ro, www.
greenhours.ro. Check the venues website for concert details. PENBW
HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL Unveiled in October

2009, Romanias Holocaust Memorial finally recognises
the countrys role in the genocide of Europes Jews.
This monument is full of symbolism hundreds of
thousands were killed who would have contributed to
the cultural and economic prosperity of Romania, said
Rabbi Menachem HaCohen, Romanias chief rabbi, at its
opening.QB-6, Str. Ion Brezoianu/Str. Ilfov, MEroilor.
JEWISH HISTORY MUSEUM (HOLY UNION
TEMPLE; MUZEUL DE ISTORIE A EVREILOR
DIN ROMANIA) Housed in the amazing Holy Union
Temple synagogue, constructed in 1836, this building
has served as a museum of Jewish history since 1978.
A number of separate exhibitions display how the once
vibrant Jewish community of Bucharest used to live,
while there is also an impressive Jewish liturgical collection, most of which was assembled by Moses Rosen,
Romanias Chief Rabbi from 1964-94 who founded the
museum. QC-6, Str. Mmulari 3, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 021 311 08 70. Open 09:00 - 14:00, Fri, Sun 09:00
- 13:00. Closed Sat. Admission free.
THE GREAT POLISH SYNAGOGUE & HOLOCAUST MUSEUM Bucharests Great Synagogue, often called the Great Polish Synagogue, was built from
1845 -1846 by the Ashkenazi Polish-Jewish community.
Rather plain on the outside the interior is an impressive,
colourful mixture of baroque and rococo styles, and the
Great Synagogue is perhaps today the most important
Jewish building in the country. The synagogue hosts an
excellent exhibition dedicated to Jewish martyrs, and
to Moses Rosen, who served as Romanias Chief Rabbi
for 30 years until his death in 1994. Guided tours are
available (phone ahead). QC-6, Str. Vasile Adamache
11, MPiata Unirii. Open 08:30 - 15:00, Fri, Sun 08:30 13:00. Closed Sat. Morning Prayer: Sun-Fri 08:00, Sat
09:30, Evening Prayer: Sun-Fri 19:00.
YESHOAH TOVA SYNAGOGUE (SINAGOGA
EUA TOVA) Located on a busy side street off Bulevardul Magheru, this is in fact Bucharests oldest working synagogue, dating from 1827. It is one of just three
in Bucharest which still holds regular religious services.
QC-4, Str. Tache Ionescu 9, MPiata Romana. Services take place when Sabbath commences on Friday
evenings, as well as on Saturdays at 09:00.
NICORESTI Maybe we have been harsh in the past with

our reviews of Nicoresti. It is, after all, one of the most celebrated Romanian restaurants in the city, and given that
the service - always our biggest problem with the place
- has improved no end of late, we think it is about time we
give it another chance. We suggest you do the same, for
the food has always been very good. The ciolan de porc
(pork knuckle) with beans is legendary: ask anyone in the
city!QC-5, Str. Maria Rosetti 40, tel. (+4) 021 211 24 80,
www.restaurantnicoresti.ro. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
13:00 - 23:00. . PSW
ROSSETYA Rossetya is a restaurant which tries harder
than most to take Romanian cuisine to new levels. As
such, this is as upmarket as Romanian food can get, and
the beef dishes here are especially good. Try the sote de
vacuta aromat cu cognac: tender beef sauteed in cognac
with mushrooms and tomatoes. Also worth trying is the
iahnie de fasole: a Romanian bean stew that packs something of a kick and proof that Romanian does do vegetarian
food.QC-5, Str. Dimitrie Bolintineanu 9, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 031 805 91 99/(+4) 0748 22 02 20, rossetya@
gmail.com, www.rossetya.ro. Open 11:00 - 23:30. .
PSW
URBANESC As fashionable as you like and already attracting a crowd of urban trendsetters, this restaurant/
cafe/kind-of-shop is a nice mix of the old and the new. The
old is the house the place is set in, the new is the rather
funky design of the interior. The set-lunch deal is great
value at 25 lei (it changes every day and often features
some rather sophisticated dishes, and always includes an
out-of-the-ordinary soup, like potato and leek) while the
a la carte menu is a more extravagant affair featuring top
contemporary food. The shop sells funky gifts, while in
Read our full Jewish

Bucharest feature online at:
iyp.me/jewishbucharest
the loft there is a space for events: book readings and the
like.QD-5, Str. Stefan Luchian 17, tel. (+4) 021 313 77 16,
www.urbanesc.ro. Open 11:00 - 23:00. . VSW
VATRA RESTAURANT
We have been eating here for years and we cant recommend the place highly enough. You really will have go a
long way to find better value Romanian food than this.
A brilliant, well-priced restaurant close to Old Town and
very close to Cismigiu Park, expect big portions of tasty
local dishes. Great ciorbas, terrific mici and a decent pint of
beer to wash it all down with.QB-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 19,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 83 75/(+4) 0721 20 08
00, vatra@vatra.ro, www.vatra.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
. PLSW
SEAFOOD
CHERHANAUA ANCORA Cherhana in Romanian
means fishery, so you will already know what to expect
here: fine fish and seafood. The interior is rather special:
bright and contemporary, with more than a hint of local
flavour. In a city now boasting more than a few seriously
good interiors, this is up with the best of them. The food
is very good too, from simple yet brilliantly executed local fish dishes (hamsii, carp and pike) to more exotic fish
shipped in direct from the Mediterranean and beyond: sea
bass, prawns, fresh tuna and much more. We should add
that there are some fine meat choices for those who are
not fish fans. Desserts as good as everything else. Prices
high.QB-1, Sos. Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4) 0721 33 55 55/
(+4) 0724 33 22 33, www.ancora-cherhana.ro. Open
12:00 - 24:00. . PLSW
FISHBONE GRILL Another fish restaurant more than
worth the name adds itself to the growing list of such
establishments in Bucharest. Well prepared, fresh fish in
bright, modern surroundings with a great selection of side
dishes and plenty of cracking wine to wash it all down
with. Good lunchtime deals and friendly, happy staff ready
to make your time here memorable. Certainly one of our
fave places to open this year.QC-4, Str. Gen. Ernest Brosteanu 2, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0721 98 28 48, www.
fishbonegrill.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. . PESW
29
Restaurants
Restaurants
ROMANIAN FOOD
LA PESCADOR
A decent seafood eatery close to the city centre. The place
is nice, although it can feel a little dark inside (especially
during the sunnier months) as the windows are not huge,
so try and grab a seat on the small terrace if you can (make
a reservation). What we like best is the lunchtime deal, one
of the best value in the city and the only we know of which
features a decent bit of fish. Top marks.QD-4, Str. Mihai
Eminescu 181, tel. (+4) 0768 92 49 60, lapescador@
yahoo.com, www.lapescador.ro. Open 10:30 - 22:30.
Closed Sun. . PLVBSW
LA VERANDA One of three superb restaurants at the
Crowne Plaza. This one is housed inside a glass terrace offering wonderful views of the garden outside: a joy in any
weather. It serves deceptively simple yet exquisite fish and
sea food as fresh as the day it was caught, and the chef will
happily cook to order.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne
Plaza), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.laveranda.ro. Open
06:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 06:00
- 11:30, 12:30 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00. . PLEW
MESOGIOS A businessmans dream. While Mesogios
certainly doesnt get any cheaper, the high standards here
have ensured that it remains packed with happy punters.
Getting on for a decade since it opened its dedication to
seafood has not waned for one moment, and we never
leave disappointed (and we come here as often as our wallet allows). Join us and enjoy squid, lobster, prawns of all
sizes, mussels, oysters, giant sea bass and a host of other
wet treats.QC-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 49, tel. (+4) 021 313 49
51, (+4) 0727 23 92 39, www.mesogios.ro. Open 12:30 24:00. . PESW
RAIONUL DE PESTE Inside Piata Dorobanti (Dorobanti
Market) you will find Raionul de Peste, which translates as
Fish Counter. And thats exactly what this place is: a fish
counter serving fresh fish which someone will cook for you
on the spot. You can then sit and eat it at the bar. Its a brilliant, simple concept widely found in other capital cities
but a new one for Bucharest: we hope they do really well.
Theres wine by the glass if you fancy a drink and prices are
good. Closes at 21:00 (with the market) so get there early.
QB-3, Str. Radu Beller 3-6, tel. (+4) 031 436 70 42/(+4)
0756 05 80 12. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. . GSW
TAVERNA PESCAREASCA LA ZAVAT
Top little place with more atmosphere in its small toe than
most other restaurants have in their entire bodies. Cracking menu of primarily fish and seafood, though there are
local Romanian and international favourites too. An exemplary wine list (for all budgets) makes it a super place for
vineyard fans: all of Romanias top wineries are represented.QE-5, Str. Popa Nan 16, tel. (+4) 021 252 29 56/(+4)
0766 52 67 91, taverna.pescareasca@yahoo.com, www.
taverna-lazavat.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PSW
SPANISH
ALIOLI TAPAS Order yourself a San Miguel or a pitcher
of Sangria and stick your feet up. Great tapas and cocktail bar, frequented by nice people who all come ready to
chat. Top food choices include the mussels, the paella, the
osso bucco and the gambas al ajillo. Excellent value.QB-5,
Str. Popa Tatu 4, tel. (+4) 021 311 80 27/(+4) 0721 38 49
83, www.alioli.ro. Open 12:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 23:00. . PLESW
EL FOGON DE BARCELONA Only open three nights
a week this place - not exactly in the centre of the city - is
well worth the effort. The owner and chef is a Spanish chap
who has been living in these parts for years. Eating here is
like dining as a guest in somebodys house, complete with
amazing food (the paella is exactly as it should be) and
carafes of great wine. All of the ingredients are shipped in
from Spain, and everything is the genuine article, from the
hams and chorizo to the olive oil and cheese. Note that
you can buy most of it from the little shop the owner also
runs.QStr. Doctor Buicliu 2, MEroilor, tel. (+4) 0786 63
80 15. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun.
. PLNGS
LA RAMBLA Spanish food as it well and truly should
be: its not often you can write that in Bucharest. From an
expert gazpacho to a paella made in Heaven to the most
Romanian food, rich in Turkish, Hungarian and German

influences, is rather good. An example of top Romanian
fare is the classic sour soup, ciorba. Made of bor (a sour,
honey-coloured liquid made of wheat and cornflour),
the tradition of making sour soups is Ukrainian, but was
perfected in Moldavia and later Muntenia. In theory
anything can go into a ciorba, though the most popular are ciorba de legume (made with vegetables), ciorba
de vacuta (made with beef), ciorba de burta (made with
tripe) and ciorba de perioare (made with pork meatballs).
While you will often see ciorba de pui (ciorba made with
chicken), chicken is more popular in clear soups, served
with dumplings (galute), carrots and parsnips.
At more formal meals a number of cold appetizers
known as gustare reci will usually be served before the
ciorba. These include cheese, olives, spring onions, salami,
tomatoes and boiled eggs. Sometimes there may also be a
platter of warm appetizers (gustare calde), such as carnai de
plecoi (mutton sausages), ficaei de pui (chicken livers), ciuperci umplute (stuffed mushrooms), or mici. These are spicy
little sausage-shaped meatballs made of mutton, beef and
pork. They are delicious.
While main courses can sometimes be a disappointment,
there are always some superb options in good restaurants,
such as the celebrated sarmale (cabbage or vine leaves
stuffed with mince and rice), or tocania (thick stew, usually pork). If you see ciolan afumat on a menu, it is worth
trying: smoked pork knuckle served with beans. Romanian
pork in general is superb. Mamaliga is a Romanian version
of polenta made of cornmeal, whose stodginess has long
been compared to the Romanian temperament.
Though Romania boasts a not insignificant coastline along
the Black Sea, the standard of its seafood can be poor. There
is, however, an increasingly large number of specialist seafood restaurants in Bucharest, although much of the fish
they serve will be imported and priced accordingly. Look
out too for hamsii: tasty, deep fried anchovies.
Sweets in Romania are sweet indeed. Pancakes (clatite)
served with chocolate or jam and covered in sugar are a
popular dessert, as are papanai: deep fried doughnuts
filled with jam, or sometimes cottage cheese. Look out
too for Romanian cakes (prjituri), usually made with
lashings of fresh cream.
Finally, a note about some culinary habits you may come
across in the countrys restaurants. Fries, for example, often
come covered with grated cheese. When ordering you can
avoid this by stating fara branza pe cartofi prajii. There is
also a local habit of throwing sour cream (smntana) on
everything, especially in ciorbe and soups. A simple fara
smntana, v rog will suffice. Most bizarre however is the
local tendency to cover perfectly good pizza with ketchup.
31
Restaurants
PANTELIMON ART TOWER
PANTELIMON ART TOWER (MAKE A POINT)
A climb to the top of the staircase which wraps itself
around the 37-metre high Pantelimon Art Tower offers a genuinely unique look at Bucharest. Built in the
1960s the water tower is still functional (it cools water
for the Postavaria textile plant) while Make a Point (the
organisation behind the Art Tower project) make use of
the interior for exhibitions and installations. Windows
have been added and as you make your way up the
stairs you can look inside and see the work on display
(which is often hung from the rafters). The real joy of
the tower however is the perspective of Bucharest you
get from the viewing platform at the top. For what you
see from up here is far more representative of this city
than what you will see from any of the tall buildings
closer to the city centre. The blocks, the factories, the
traffic: these are what an eastern European city like Bucharest is all about. Blocks in which people sleep, before travelling on the busy roads to their places of work
in the factories. To get to the tower, take bus No. 104
from Piata Unirii. Its a long ride, which takes in some
of the less picturesque parts of Bucharest: if you have
been paying attention, however, you will realise thats
kind of the point... QSos. Morarilor 1, tel. (+4) 0723
75 32 00, www.makeapoint.ro. The tower is open
on request. Call (+4) 0723 753 200 to arrange a visit
(English spoken). Admission free.
Restaurants
superb piece of salted cod, everything we have ever eaten
here has been first class. It helps of course that the ingredients are all the real thing: the hams, olives and just about
everything else is shipped in direct from Spain. Oh, and
the Sangria? More than worthy a jug or two.QStr. Grigore
Alexandrescu 8, tel. (+4) 0765 55 58 33, www.larambla.
ro. Open 09:00 - 01:00. . PVEBSW
PATA NEGRA COPAS Y TAPAS
The moment you walk in and see the huge Spanish hams
hanging above the bar you will know that you have come
to the right place. There have been a few attempts at creating a genuine Spanish tapas bar in Bucharest over the
years: this is perhaps the first to truly get it right. Those
in the know can order a range of tapas from the menu,
while beginners can just ask the great staff select a few for
you. Everything is authentic: it is all imported from Spain,
and the icing on the cake is the paella, made exactly as it
should be with all of the right ingredients. Add in a selection of top Spanish wines and you have every reason to go
there right now.QB-5, Str. Crisana 21, tel. (+4) 0734 34
90 76, www.patanegra.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed
Mon. . PBW
RESTAURANT NADA MAS Nice. A bright, spacious
and thoroughly modern eatery behind the Ateneu. For
starters, take either the gazpacho (as good as it should be)
or the mix of Spanish hams and sausages before moving
on to the decent choice of seafood or meat main courses.
We ate the very good oxtail - which we have not seen on
a menu for years - as well as a portion of paella, which was
richly packed with seafood. Then throw in some walnut
tostados for dessert if you have room. At lunchtime there
are very well-priced set menus.QC-5, Str. Nicolae Golescu 16, MPiata Romana/Universitate, tel. (+4) 021
313 20 91, www.nadamas.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. . PLESW
STEAK HOUSES
JW STEAKHOUSE BUCHAREST
The JW Marriott hosts one of Bucharests best chophouses:
the JW Steakhouse, only the second such signature venue
to open in Europe. You can expect a very American steakhouse experience, right down to the Black Angus beef
imported from the US. The Tomahawk steak - weighing in
at nearly a kilo - is the pick of the steaks, but there is much
more besides, including broiled lobster and Australian
lamb chops. There is a great selection of new world wines,
and they open early for breakfast: the American pancakes
and eggs Benedict are a great option to start the day with.
Note that the JW is closed Saturday lunchtime, and for dinner Sunday evening.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW
Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), MIzvor/Eroilor, tel.
(+4) 021 403 19 03, www.jwsteakhouse.ro. Open 06:30
- 11:00, 12:30 - 16:00, 18:30 - 23:30, Sat 06:30 - 11:00,
18:30 - 23:30. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 210 lei/pers,
children between six and twelve half price, children under six free. . PLESW
OSHO Sometimes when writing a review, all you really

want to write is this place is brilliant. This is a butchers
shop and restaurant serving T-bone steaks you would
scream for in the dark. There is more than steak on the
menu though, such as a top burger (which comes in three
sizes), tangy lamb chops and an outstanding selection of
fresh fish. Plus, theres a kids menu. We also have to admit to being pleasantly surprised about the prices: given
the location (this is Beverly Hills, Bucharest) they are more
than reasonable considering you get the best of the best.
Packed at lunchtime.QB-2, B-dul Primaverii 19-21, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 021 568 30 31, (+4) 021 568 30 32,
www.osho-restaurant.ro. Open 10:30 - 23:30, Sat 10:00
- 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. . PTVBSW
NEW
ROYAL STEAK For once, a place claiming to be something unique in Romania actually delivers: this is certainly
a first as far as our experience goes. The meat and seafood
here (and it is all of the finest quality, shipped in from Argentina and around the world) is cooked on hot stones,
which are brought to your table (with three magnificent
sauces) so that you can cook it as much (or as little) as you
like. If you dont fancy doing it yourself the staff are on
hand to help out. The place itself is classy: smart without
overdoing it, and is perfect for a treat. Note that you can
also buy steaks here to cook at home.QC-4, Piata Romana 8, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0751 18 21 10, www.
royalsteak.ro. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PAL
SW
VACAMUUU Currently the most talked-about chophouse in the city. Serving a range of steaks so wide and so
good that even the most jaded of beefeaters will be drooling, you can also feast on lamb, veal and pork chops, while
the burgers are a match for anywhere else. There is a kids
menu, and the weekend all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet
is top value. Most of the meat can be bought to take home
and cook yourself should you wish, and then theres the
wine list: a surprise we will let you discover yourself when
you come here.QC-3, Calea Floreasca 111, tel. (+4) 0731
35 11 35, www.vacamuuu.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00.
. PTSW
THAI
KUNNAI
At last, place for those of us who have been craving something Thai since Moods closed a while ago now. This place
is terrific, found on the ground floor of a new apartment
block in a leafy northern part of Bucharest. The food is
the real deal, of which the food will convince you immediately. We had the Pla Praew Waanfish stir-fry followed
by the prawn Phad Thai: both were sensational and well
worth the money (its good value if not exactly cheap). Get
there now.QStr. Copilului 6, tel. (+4) 0722 68 73 43/(+4)
0722 68 74 54, resevations@kunnai.ro, www.kunnai.
ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Last kitchen order 23:00. .
PTLSW
33
Restaurants
Cafs
SLOW FOOD
BEAUTYFOOD Love it. Another brilliant little Slow
Food venue pops up in Bucharest, this time on the site
of the old Violetas. Check the blackboard for whats
on the menu - if they have it we can recommend the
burger with the home fries. Always has a good lunchtime deal on.QC-5, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 34, tel.
(+4) 0759 03 06 09, www.beauty-food.ro. Open
9:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
Closed Mon. .
BECAS KITCHEN This restaurant is a magnificent
place serving wonderful, home-cooked food, with
the menu changing more or less every day: check
the blackboard for todays specials. You can also buy
homemade jams, pickles and the like. Terrific.QC-4,
Str. Mihai Eminescu 80, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4)
0722 30 89 60, www.becaskitchen.ro. Open 12:00 22:00. Closed Mon. . PGSW
URBAN CONTEMPORARY
RESTAURANT MADAME POGANY
Fine, upmarket yet casual restaurant of the new school in
Floreasca/Dorobanti. The spacious, modern, well-lit dining room gives you a real sense of grandeur without ever
becoming kitsch: a trick few have managed to pull off in
Bucharest. There is little point telling you about the food
as the menu changes almost daily: what we can say is
that whatever you order you are likely to be happy with
it. This is a great restaurant.QC-3, Str. Banu Antonache
40-44, tel. (+4) 0744 10 56 13, www.madamepogany.
ro. Open 09:00 - 00:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. .
PLSW
VEGETARIAN
CASA SATYA
Where do you start when reviewing a place like this? The
concept is Ayurveda, as in the pseudo-scientific system of
natural healing. Food wise, that means everything here is
meat free, and made with only organic ingredients. That
does not mean forgoing taste: the delicious chutneys
served with the poppadoms will convince you of that right
from the off. The toilets by the way are amazing, and as
you might expect, it is totally non-smoking.QA-3, B-dul
Banu Manta 25, tel. (+4) 0736 39 25 87, office@satya.
ro, www.satya.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PVG
BSW
METUKA The food is seasonal, all prepared fresh, and

made from locally-sourced ingredients. It also comes
at a fair price: both to you and to the suppliers. The
menu changes every day, but there is always a good
choice for either lunch or dinner (soups, finger food
and more substantial dishes), as well as terrific desserts.QB-4, B-dul Lascar Catargiu 7, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0734 16 57 46/(+4) 0740 05 55 49. Open
11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. . PVSW
THE LONDON STREET BISTRO What you have
here is outstanding homemade food served with a
smile in a splendid setting. The wonderfully inventive
menu (which changes often) is packed with tasty treats
(on our last visit we ate the most amazing Thai fishcake
salad) and nothing costs as much as it really ought to:
this is fine food at half the price of elsewhere (the set
lunch is not the least of the bargains). The cook and
owner is usually on hand to add a personal tip or two, or
hand out something new she has just come up with in
the kitchen. There is an amazing wine list, there are a few
English beers, a Romanian craft beer and even - Famous
Five fans - lashings of ginger beer. Oh, and ice lolllies.
Get in!QC-3, Str. Putul Lui Zamfir 15, tel. (+4) 0736 93
35 31, www.thelondonstreetatelier.com. Open 17:00
- 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. . PVGBW
VIOLETAS BISTRO The concept is great: very good
traditional and modern Romanian food (the cook is not
afraid to experiment) with more than a nod towards the
vegetarian served off a menu that changes regularly.
You can check the latest menu online (it is always up
to date) and then decide if you fancy anything before
setting off.QD-6, Str. George Ionescu-Gion 9, tel. (+4)
0722 52 56 43, www.violetas.ro. Open 12:00 - 22:00,
Sat 10:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. . PGBSW
CAFE & GRADINA VERONA

Sublime. At the brilliant Carturesti bookshop is this delightful place serving coffee, teas, cocktails, beer and a
vast range of fabulous lemonade. There is also some good
food, both from an a la carte menu as well as terrific value
set lunch deals (usually 19 lei for two courses). We should
point out that they have one of the best selection of vegan
dishes in the city (including delicious vegetable noodles,
a good korma and decent humus. Service is always great
from the top staff, there is often a cultural event happening (including occasional live music). Given how popular
the place is we suggest making a reservation if you want
a table.QC-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 0732 00 30 60, info@cafeverona.ro.
Open 09:00 - 24:00. PESW
CAFE TIMES Free Wifi with your (excellent) coffee and a
can-do attitude from the staff who appear to realise that
sometimes people are busy, and need their coffee double
quick. Not every cafe in Bucharest does realise that... Having said that, this is the kind of laid-back place that you
end up spending the whole afternoon in, no matter how
busy you are.QE-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii,
tel. (+4) 031 224 80 16, www.cafetimes.ro. Open 07:30 24:00. PLESW
CAFFE & LATTE We have been coming here for years and
still love it. A cafe, bar and bistro serving superb coffee, tea,
cocktails, cakes and panini, as well as some very good light
meals: the salads are legendary. Opens early for breakfast
(we recommend the omelettes) and the setting opposite
Cismigiu is special.QB-5, Str. Schitu Magureanu 35, tel.
(+4) 031 415 85 51, www.caffe-latte.ro. Open 08:00 22:30, Sat 08:30 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:30. PTW
CAMERA DIN FATA One of the best cafes to open in Bucharest for years. The name means Front room, and being
here is in many ways just like being somebodys front room.
Great coffee and tea served in great mugs from gorgeous
tea pots at tables which fill up early as the world pops in for
espresso on its way to work. Lovely.QC-4, Str. Mendeleev
22, tel. (+4) 021 311 15 12, www.cameradinfata.ro. Open
08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PSW
COFTALE Much more than being merely a very good cafe,
this gorgeous place serves some of the best light meals and
finger food you will eat in Bucharest. The vegetable spring
rolls for example: amazing. The coffee is reassuringly wonderful, the hot chocolate with marshmallows a legend in
the making, and the desserts and cakes more than tempting. Its well worth looking out for this place.QD-5, Str. Stefan Mihaileanu 42, tel. (+4) 0748 84 86 78, www.coftale.
ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. PAESW
GREEN TEA A gorgeous villa whose many rooms have
all been lovingly decorated in a different theme (one is like
your favourite Grans front room, another is like a country
house) the list of teas available is as long as your arm. Some
are very exotic indeed. And yes, besides taking tea here, you
35
Cafs
Nightlife
BARS:
BAR A1 A little bit of everything in a very nice package. Food

(including breakfast), drink (the milkshakes are fab, there is
a range of rather unusual beers, while the wine selection is
better than your average wine bar) and cakes that would
shame most bakeries. The place itself is delightfully chic in
that slightly shabby way, and the crowd that meets here is
equally relaxed. QB-4, Str. Piata Amzei 1, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0723 12 48 47. Open 8:00 - 00:30. NS
can buy just about all of the teas in the shop.QD-5, Str. Dr.
Burghelea 24, tel. (+4) 021 320 93 96, www.greentea.ro.
Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PGSW
KAFETERYA CAFE We know people who come here
so often, and spend so much time here, that they should
probably be paying rent. It is that kind of place: a friendly,
local cafe serving top coffee, cocktails, light meals, salads
and desserts to die for (the waffles are probably the best in
Bucharest). Its packed with comfy sofas and armchairs, and
we can guarantee that one visit will not be enough.QB-5,
Str. Schitu Magureanu 8, MIzvor, tel. (+4) 0726 22 25 67,
www.kafeterya.ro. Open 07:30 - 24:00. PESW
LA GALETTE
Classy cafe and patisserie at the Pullman, a popular choice
with guests and office workers from the World Trade Center. The range of pastries is just about second to none in
Bucharest, while the coffees are great value for what is
after all a five-star hotel.QA-1, P-ta Montreal 10 (Pullman Bucharest Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00, www.
pullmanhotels.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 18:00. Closed Sun. PBSW
ORIGO
A contender for the title of best coffee shop in Bucharest.
This place is all about great coffee from all over the world,
as well as a fairly decent selection of tea too. Many of the
more exotic coffees can be bought by the packet to make at
home, and the design of the place is not too shabby either:
the coffee cups hanging down over the bar are a nice touch.
Theres relaxing music, cocktails and - here comes the big
news - inside it is totally non-smoking.QC-6, Str. Lipscani
9, tel. (+4) 0757 08 66 88. Open 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PGSW
READERS CAFE
This place is one of the great things about the Metropolis Centre, of which the Starlight Suites and Loft restaurant
also form part. You will find Readers on the ground floor,
a modern, bright and well-lit space where you can read,
drink great coffee or eat - far better than you would expect. The breakfast is terrific, the sandwiches tasty and
well-filled, the salads big and the pasta light. Live music
most evenings (early evening) and well separated smoking and non-smoking sections. Nice.QB-4, Str. Grigore
Alexandrescu 89-97, MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0737
32 33 77, www.readerscafe.ro. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat
10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PLESW
SUBSOL BAR Perhaps the most iconic building in Bucharest. Inside the shell of an old house destroyed during the
1989 revolution a new building has risen, home - fittingly
- to Romanias architectural association. The cafe and bar
which occupies part of the building is more than worthy
of its location, a contemporary space with walls decorated
with scenes from the revolution, where you can enjoy coffee and cocktails in the company of a good young crowd.
There are tasty sandwiches too, which can be taken away
if you are in a hurry.QC-5, Str. Demetru Ion Dobrescu 5,
MUniversitate, tel. +(4) 021 315 60 98, www.subsolbar.
ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. PSW
TUCANO COFFEE
Currently Bucharests newest and most talked-about cafe,
not least for the fact that it serves amazing pancakes and
an organic, cannabis coffee. This is much more than a simple cafe however: it puts on all sorts events, both for kids at
the weekends at for us grown ups in the evenings. It hosts
book launches, brunches and even open-mic nights for
would-be musicians. Bohemian and non-conformist it is
Bucharest at its best. Oh, and we should add that it is nonsmoking. Hurrah! Find it next to the British Council.QC-4,
Calea Dorobantilor 18, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0761
37 66 26, www.tucanocoffee.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00,
Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:30 - 02:00, Sun 09:30 - 24:00.
PEGBSW
ENGLISH BAR One of our regular haunts. This little corner

of the Hilton that will forever be associated with intrigue and
spies (it has been around for nearly a century, as long as the
hotel) remains today a classy bar serving champagne by the
glass and much else besides (including a tremendous pint
of Guinness). Packed most days with business leaders it also
regularly hosts sophisticated parties, and on some Thursday
nights this little bar becomes the most happening venue in
town, a favourite of Bucharests fashionistas.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77
ext. 6759. Open 11:00 - 02:00. PLW
INTERMEZZO PIANO BAR Legendary and rather historic hotel bar in the lobby of the Inter, which was a den
of iniquity and intrigue during the communist period,
all spies and journalists, plots and honey traps. Now its
merely a very cool place to meet and have a drink in superb surroundings. Another one of the many reasons why
the InterContinental is once again one of the top places in
Bucharest to spend time.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4
(Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021
310 20 20. Open 08:00 - 01:00. PLEW
PAVILION LOUNGE The JW Marriotts newest addition
is a suitably stylish and contemporary venue boasting
one of the most elegant bars in the city. There are various
seating areas, from the stools at the bar to comfy sofas
and armchairs. Throw in a top cocktail list and great staff
and it all means that the citys other business bars have
some real competition at last. Top stuff.QB-6, Calea 13
Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel),
tel. (+4) 021 403 19 04, www.jwmarriottbucharest.
com. Open 08:00 - 01:00. PLEW
VIENNA LOUNGE
The Marriotts posh flagship caf, which is exactly as youd
expect: classy, enjoyable and expensive. Sit and try to read
those unmanageable newspapers on a stick, while enjoying the occasional live piano music, plus the sight of business types buzzing about to conferences. Whats more fun
than leisurely watching others work when you dont have
to?QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 01. Open 09:00
- 23:00. PLESW
BEERHALLS & PUBS

NEW
BERARIA H A former exhibition hall (one of many in Herastrau; this one was known as Pavilion H) has been converted into what the owners claim is the largest beerhall
in eastern Europe. Having seen the size of the place we
are inclined to agree. There are various areas in which you
can enjoy your beer, but its all a little too big, and the staff
on our visit appeared hardly able to cope. The selection of
draught beer was a tad disappointing, as were the sausages: nothing that we dont think you cant find elsewhere
in Bucharest.QA-1, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 0725 34 53
45, www.berariah.ro. Open 10:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 10:00 03:00. PESW
BERARIE GAMBRINUS One of the most celebrated
and historic pubs in Bucharest - haunt, for decades, of
Caragiale, Gica Petrescu and every other local carouser returns, this time as something of a Heineken-pub. There is
Romanian beer on tap though, Gambrinus, Silva and Ciuc,
available by the metre if thats what you fancy. Theres
some good pub grub too, not least the sausages which
were terrific. Prices more than reasonable and theres
even a non-smoking section.QB-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0744 31 51 10, www.
berariegambrinus.ro. Open 07:00 - 02:00. PSW
ENERGIEA We like this place a lot: the high ceilings and
big windows make it a good choice day and night, the original (we think?) floor looks great and there are a number of
different rooms, not all of which carry the industrial-chic
look of the main bar. Best of all though we like the raised
interior balcony. Top cocktail-sipping territory.QB-6, Str. Brezoianu 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0736 37 44 32, www.
energiea.ro. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat
15:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PLBSW
THE HARP IRISH PUB & RESTAURANT
The Harp is back, and is better than ever before. In fact, if
you havent been here for a while you might hardly recognise the place. Set over two levels, with two great bars, the
Guinness is as exemplary as ever, and the food is fabulous, a
cut above your usual pub grub and bordering on the out-
37
Nightlife
Nightlife
CONTROL CLUB
Still tops our list of clubs for people who do not like clubs.
It is a brilliant place where there is always something going
on, be it a DJ playing sounds which range from anything
to anything else, or live music supplied by one of Bucharests better live acts (or, indeed, acts from abroad). Note
also that it opens early afternoon: it is now a pub as much
as a club, and indeed often hosts cultural events such as
theatre, films, book-readings and the like. Fantastic.QC-5,
Str. Constantin Mille 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 92
78 61, rezervari@control-club.ro, www.control-club.ro.
Open 13:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 06:00. PEW
standing. The enormous burger they have started serving

here might be a contender for the citys biggest. There is
live music some nights, and be warned: as big as this place
is it has become rather popular again. If you want a table
(especially at the weekend) make a reservation.QC-6, Str.
Bibescu Voda 1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 55 44 55,
www.theharp.ro. Open 08:30 - 02:00. PBEW
CLUBS & DISCOS

As a general rule, Bucharests clubs can be divided into three
categories: the upmarket, Uber-Clubs, where the fashionable
and well-heeled go to party, Student & Underground clubs
where you will find a mainly local crowd of young partygoers,
and Live Music clubs which host bands most nights of the
week. There is a fair bit of crossover, but we think these three
categories describe the citys club scene reasonably well.
LIVE MUSIC
CHAOS Expect good - mainly local but often foreign - live
acts most nights, with a reasonably big name performing
at least once or twice a month. Good beer, a very good
atmosphere and a real favourite of big groups of friends
looking for a great night out. You can eat here too: theres a
restaurant serving some terrific, big-portioned Romanian
food on site.QE-6, Str. Turturelelor 11, tel. (+4) 0731 49
51 14, www.facebook.com/chaos.venue. Open 20:00 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PLEBSW
TRIBUTE
Besides a fantastic resident band, Tribute is also regularly
host to a number of the best live acts in the business,
who love the atmosphere provided by a great crowd and
wonderful acoustics. Basically, if the excitement of live
music is what you are looking for, this is one first class
venue. Bang in the city centre (its on Calea Victoriei) its
a great choice if you are stuck in a downtown pub thinking about where to move on to. Plan on staying late.QB4, Calea Victoriei 118, tel. (+4) 0728 74 28 83, www.
tribute.ro. Open 22:00 - 06:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Sun. PEW
STUDENT & UNDERGROUND

DEJA-VU
A place that goes from strength to strength. Still the best
cocktail bar this side of the River Prut, it is now open during
the day for food too: you could spend your whole life in
here. The draw though remain the participatory cocktails,
some of which involve fire, and a few which involve wearing a World War II Russian army helmet. They also serve at
least one which involves a young Russian girl squeezing
lemon into your mouth with her teeth. At weekends it is
packed and the small dancefloor is the sweatiest place in
Bucharest. You will love it.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu
25, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 311 23 22/(+4) 0721
91 82 79, www.dejavu-club.ro. Open 17:00 - 04:00.
PENW
EXPIRAT & OTHERSIDE CLUB
A club with two faces. Expirat is home to some of Bucharests most eclectic sounds, and as it has an OtherSide (Expirats club within a club), chances are there is bound to be
something going on you fancy. The music policy is a bit of
everything: folk (usually live on Mondays), electro, alternative, rock and indie with hip-hop, reggae and disco sometimes thrown in for good measure. (Check the venues
Facebook page to see whats on the night you fancy going). Drinks are well priced, and there are two bars meaning that you never have to wait too long to get served.
Top notch.QB-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 4, MPiata Unirii/
Izvor, tel. (+4) 0733 97 47 28/(+4) 0726 80 41 42, www.
expirat.org. Open 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
(Expirat); 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. (The
OtherSide). PEW
KULTURHAUS
Probably the Bucharest students favourite. A nakedly
non-commercial club that attracts a nakedly non-commercial crowd on two levels offering hard rock, folk rock,
new wave, punk and indie upstairs, and pretty much the
same downstairs (though it depends on the DJ...) Has a live
band playing at least once a week, bags of other events
and refreshingly says NO to table service: yes, you will
have to get your sorry ass to the bar to get a drink. We are
fans.QC-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 4, MPiata Unirii/Universitate,
tel. (+4) 021 313 55 92, www.kulturhaus.ro. Open 23:00
- 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PLE
MOONLIGHT CLUB
Now prefaced by Moonlight, this is still in many ways
the Downtown as many will remember it, complete with
girls dancing on the bar in their underwear and some of
the liveliest theme nights in the city. Big and cavernous
it nevertheless always seems to be packed out, a sign of
its enduring popularity. Hosts regular events, including
stand-up comedy (of the Romanian variety).QC-4, Str.
Mendeleev 32, tel. (+4) 0724 75 13 51. Open 21:00 06:00. Closed Sun. PLEW
PANIC! Panic!, possibly the first club in Bucharest named
after a song by The Smiths, offers a mix of music centering
on (but in no way confined to) alternative rock. There are
plenty of live acts performing regularly and theres always
a good crowd of music lovers to share it all with. Refresh-
ingly, its open every night of the week (many clubs in Bucharest are not) and there is always, always something going on. Get in.QC-5, Str. Academiei 19, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 0766 05 61 70, www.panic-club.ro. Open 14:00
- 05:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 06:00. PEW
UPMARKET CLUBS
CLUB BAMBOO
Super fitze club where only the best looking and the
best dressed stand any chance of getting in. If you can
blag your way past the staff you will enter a world where
poverty is a dirty word: only the richest Romanians come
here, and their dress sense is as good or bad as you can
imagine depending on your taste. Music is clubby, friendly
house, loud enough to dance to but mellow enough to
permit conversation. Always has loads of PAs from decent
acts as well of plenty of live entertainment from a touch of
cabaret to seriously underdressed ladies dancing on the
stage. Dom Perignon Blanc 3200 lei a bottle.QD-2, Str. Tuzla 50, tel. (+4) 0726 22 62 66/(+4) 0723 22 62 66, www.
bambooclub.ro. Open 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Thu, Sun. PLW
FRATELLI SOCIAL CLUB Top notch. One of Bucharests
uber-clubs, where the richest and best looking people in
the city come to see and be seen. Serving up a neverending supply of top DJs from both Romania and abroad, it
is clear that the people who run this place consider the
music to be as important as anything else: something
not every club in this town can boast. Not cheap (kind
of the point) if you stick to the beer and do not sit at a
table (which requires you buy a bottle of spirits) then you
can still have a reasonably priced night out here. Brilliant.
QD-2, Str. Glodeni 1-3, tel. (+4) 0731 03 62 22, www.
fratelli.ro. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Thu, Sun. PL
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39
Nightlife
VICE ADVICE
For visitors to Bucharest looking for a little debauchery,
there are three options, of which only one is legal.
The legal option (and the only option we recommend) is
erotic massage at a reputable massage parlour. You will
not be offered sex at these places, but there is still much
fun to be had, from happy ending massages to full body
massage from one, two or even three nubile young ladies.
Prices start at around 35 though climb higher at the more
central, luxurious establishments.
The second option is to simply head for a brothel. These
establishments advertise themselves as legitimate strip
or nightclubs, but act mainly as fronts for brothels. After sitting yourself down at a table you will be served
expensive drinks, before being joined by some young
ladies who will try to convince you to buy them cocktails (usually orange juice with an umbrella, costing a fortune). After half an hour of bored conversation you may
be asked if you would like to retreat to a more intimate
location, usually a room above, or even in, the nightclub
itself. Expect to pay a minimum of 100 for the privilege,
as well buy an obligatory bottle of sparkling wine, which
usually costs at least another 50. All this on top of your
already huge tab. We suggest avoiding anywhere calling
itself a nightclub and promising girls. Be particularly circumspect in and around the Old Town.
The third option is to call one of the escorts who advertise in many of the poor quality city guides found around
town. This is completely illegal and you really ought to
think twice before picking up the phone.
PLAYER CLUB
The concept at super-club Player this is subtly different to
last year, and the place has been given a thorough makeover to keep it sparkling and at the cutting edge of the Bucharest nightlife scene: honestly, if its top people and top
sounds you want in an exclusive setting then this should
be your first stop in the city. Boasts the sexiest dancers, the
best DJs - often as many as four top names in one night
- and is guaranteed to leave you bleary-eyed the next
morning and wanting more. We should also point out that
the attitude is a bit more relaxed here than that at some
of the other uber-clubs: just how we like it. Get in.QA-2,
Str. Primo Nebiolo 1, Piata Montreal, tel. (+4) 0720 73 47
34/(+4) 0737 73 73 34, www.theplayer.ro. Open 23:00 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. PLBCW
LIVE MUSIC LISTINGS

5 October - Vaya Con Dios @ Sala Palatului
9 October - Taxi @ Hard Rock Cafe
12 October - Cantaloop Band @ Hard Rock Cafe
20 October - Lara Fabian @ Sala Palatului
23 October - Vama @ Hard Rock Cafe
24 October - Maximum Rock Festival @ Turbohalle
25 October - Publika @ Hard Rock Cafe
8 November - Armin van Buren @ Romexpo
9 November - Jack White @ Romexpo
13 November - Sara Brightman @ Sala Palatului
17 November - Europe @ Sala Palatului
18 November - British Legends Night (Yardbirds,
The Animals, The Trogss & Mungo Jerry) @ Sala
Palatului
30 November - Suuns @ Control
For full venue details visit inyourpocket.com.
Besides the gigs listed here look out too for regular
live music at Mojo in the Old Town (p.62) which hosts
top local bands alongside its resident Mojo Band.
Club A (p.62) is another decent bet for live music,
while outside of the Old Town, Hard Rock Cafe (p.16),
Control (p.38) and Panic (p.39) are known for their
range of live music. Kulturhaus (p.39) similarly has
live bands on most evenings.
For something a little more refined, there is the Opera. Bucharests elegant opera house was built in
the early 1950, and productions here are invariably
excellent, and prices are relatively cheap. There are
performances most evenings at 19:00.
ROMANIAN NATIONAL OPERAQA-5, B-dul
Kogalniceanu 70-72, MEroilor, tel. (+4) 021 314
69 80, www.operanb.ro. Box office open 09:0013:00, 15:00-19:00.
Sightseeing
Sightseeing
on the roof, which offers perhaps the best view of central
Bucharest. You can now even take a trip into the bowels of
the building down below, though again this costs extra. To
join one of the tours you will need to bring your passport.
Use the entrance on the right-hand side of the palace (if
youre looking at it front-on). Izvor is the nearest metro station. QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 1, intrarea A3, MIzvor,
tel. (+4) 021 311 36 11, www.cdep.ro. Open 10:00 - 16:00
(last tour 15:30). Admission 25-45 lei adults, 13-23 lei students. Free for children under 18 and the disabled. An
additional fee of 30.00 lei is payable by those with cameras, either still or video.
GEORGE ENESCU MUSEUM (MUZEUL NATIONAL GEORGE ENESCU) Mistakenly believed to be the
great Romanian composer George Enescus former home,
this outstanding Secession house was in fact built for
landowner George Cantacuzino in 1905, and many older
Bucharest residents still refer to it as the Cantacuzino Palace. It became state property in 1955, the year of Enescus
death, and a year later opened as a museum dedicated
to his life and work. You will find rooms full of the usual
memorabilia and artefacts from the eventful life of Romanias most famous composer, as well as a full telling of the
story of Romanian music in general. QB-4, Calea Victoriei 141, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 318 14 50, www.
georgeenescu.ro. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6 lei, children 1.50 lei. Free entry on the 26th of
each month.
ESSENTIAL BUCHAREST
The first port of call for any visitor to Bucharest these days
should probably be the Historic Centre, or Old Town. The
Peasant and Village Museums should also not be missed,
as well as the Grigore Antipa National History Museum.
While still the most famous building in the city and usually top of the agenda for most visitors, Casa Poporului/
Palatul Parlamentului tends to be a bit of a let down for
most. Art lovers should pencil in at least an afternoon at
the National Art Museum. Last but not least, half a day at
the Bellu Cemetery is a wonderful trip through Romanian
literary, artistic, political and architectural history.
CASA POPORULUI (PARLIAMENT PALACE; PALATUL PARLAMENTULUI) Palatul Parlamentului (known
universally as Casa Poporului) was built during the darkest days of the Nicolae Ceausescu regime. Standing 84m
above ground level on 12 floors, the building has long been
shrouded in mystery, rumour and hyperbole. Originally
designed (by a young architect, Anca Petrescu, who was
just 28 at the time) to house almost all the organs of the
communist state, it today plays host to the Romanian parliament, as well as Romanias Museum of Contemporary Art. The
public tour of the building is thoroughly recommended (it
is the only way to see the building, in fact) though the commentary often consists of little more than a guide reeling
off endless superlative statistics. Youll see plenty of grand
staircases, marble-plated halls and conference rooms, while
- if you pay the extra - you may also have the chance to go
GRIGORE ANTIPA MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY (MUZEUL DE ISTORIE NATURAL GRIGORE ANTIPA) One of Romanias finest museums, and
one of the best natural history museums in Europe. Packed
with terrific exhibits which will keep kids of all ages and
their parents occupied for the best part of the day, there
are all sorts of hands-on, interactive displays, as well as 3D
films, artificial caves and - in the basement - a thorough
guide to the incredible amount of animal and plant life
native to Romania. The building which houses it all is itself worthy of note, purpose built in 1908 at the behest
of Grigore Antipa, a noted Romanian naturalist who then
set-up and ran the museum for almost five decades until
his death in 1944. QB-3, os. Kiseleff 1, MPiata Victo-
BELLU CEMETERY
Founded in the 1850s, this is the final resting place of
just about every great Romanian academic, scientist,
artist, writer, musician and poet you can think of, as
well as the odd politician. Each has his or her own plot,
usually with an accompanying monument (our favourite is that devoted to the comic actor Toma Caragiu,
killed in the Bucharest earthquake of 1977). Next to the
cemetery is the Cimitirul Eroilor, where those killed in Bucharest during the 1989 revolution are buried. QCalea
Serban Voda 249, MEroii Revolutiei, tel. (+4) 021 636
35 71, www.bellu.ro. Open 08:00 - 16:00.
riei, tel. (+4) 021 312 88 26, www.antipa.ro. Open 10:00

- 20:00. Closed Mon. From November 1st Open 10:00 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20
lei, pensioners 10 lei, children/students 5 lei.
NATIONAL ART MUSEUM (MNAR; MUZEUL NATIONAL DE ARTA) The countrys largest, and most
impressive art collection is housed inside the splendid
former Royal Palace, first built in 1812 as a private home
by the wealthy trader Dinicu Golescu. It became a royal
residence in 1859, when it was chosen as the site of the
court of the first prince of the united principalities, Alexandru Ion Cuza. There are two permanent galleries, split over
three floors of the main building. National Art (itself divided into Medieval Romanian Art - featuring icons, carved
altars, illustrated manuscripts and bibles, and fragments of
frescoes, and Modern Romanian Art, with all of Romanias
greatest 20th century artists well represented, including
Theodor Aman, Constantin Brancui, Gheorghe Patracu,
and Gheorghe Tattarescu); and European Paintings and
Sculpture, which plays host to a fine collection of Old European Masters from all of the major schools. The museum
also hosts a fine selection of temporary exhibitions. QB/C5, Calea Victoriei 49-53, tel. (+4) 021 313 30 30/(+4) 021
314 81 19, www.mnar.arts.ro. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Admission 8 lei for The Gallery of European Art,
10 lei for The National Gallery (Treasure included) and 15
lei for combined tickets (both galleries). Free on the
first Wednesday of each month.
PEASANT MUSEUM (MUZEUL TARANULUI ROMAN) The Peasant Museum is one of the most enjoyable
in Bucharest, and one of the best in the country. Housed
in a wonderful red brick building designed by Nicolae
Ghica-Budeti and dating from 1912, the museum offers
a range of exhibitions showing you just about all you
need to know about the diverse and fascinating history
of life around the Romanian countryside over the past
four centuries. There are exhibitions covering all aspects
of Romanian peasant life, from handpainted Easter eggs
to terracotta pottery, from colourful religious icons to a
huge range of traditional clothing. Replicas of some of
what is on display can be bought in the excellent museum shop. Fittingly for the building that from 1948-89
was home to the Museum of the Communist Party and Romanian Revolutionary Workers Movement, there is a rather
good although somewhat monolingual collectivisation
exhibition in the basement. The Peasant Museum hosts
excellent craft fairs in its courtyard at least once a month.
It also puts on childrens puppet shows at weekends (usually at 10:30 and 12:00, both Saturday and Sunday) and
has a lovely (covered) terrace cafe. QB-3, os. Kiseleff 3,
MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 317 96 61, www.muzeultaranuluiroman.ro. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Last admission 17:00. Admission 8 lei, students and
children 2 lei, pensioners 4 lei. Audio guides are available in English, French, German and Romanian, from
12 lei. Entrance to the craft fairs (held every month or
so) usually costs around 6 lei.
43
Sightseeing
Sightseeing
VILLAGE MUSEUM (MUZEUL NAIONAL AL

SATULUI DIMITRIE GUSTI) Founded in 1936 and covering 15 hectares on the shores of Lake Herstru, Muzeul
Satului is one of the greatest outdoor museums in the Balkans. There are more than 60 original houses, farmsteads,
windmills, watermills and churches from all of Romanias
historic regions: Transylvania, Oltenia, Dobrogea and Moldavia. Every exhibit has a plaque showing exactly where in Romania it was brought from. Some even now have recorded
commentary in four languages (if the stickers are missing,
press the second button for English). Most of the houses
date from the mid 19th-century, but there are some, such
as those from Berbeti, in the heart of Romania - celebrated
for their intricately carved entrances - which date from as
early as 1775. The highlight of the museum is probably the
steep belfry of the wooden Maramure church, complete
with exquisite but faded icons. You should also not miss
the earth houses of Straja, dug in to the ground and topped
with thatched roofs. The museum has a great souvenir shop,
and stalls selling traditional Romanian sweets and cakes. It
even has a restaurant, La Francu, set in a 19th-century inn.
Children love the museum, and it makes for a perfect family outing. QA-2, Sos. Kiseleff 28-30, MAviatorilor, tel.
(+4) 021 317 91 10, www.muzeul-satului.ro. Open 09:0018:00, Mon 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 10 lei, pensioners 5
lei, students/children 2.50 lei. Audio guides available for
50 lei, guided tours in English, French, Spanish, Italian,
Russian 300 lei: call in advance. Note that while the museum is open on Mondays, the houses are not.
BUILDINGS WITH A HISTORY

Bucharest has a number of curious, historical buildings,
which fit none of our other categories all that well.
ARCUL DE TRIUMF Bucharests Arc de triumf was raised
in 1922 to commemorate Romanias World War I dead. The
original Arc was made of wood, replaced by the present,
Petru Antonescu designed concrete structure only in 1935.
Standing 25 metres high, the Arc has a staircase that allows
visitors to climb to the terrace on the top of the monument,
though the whole building is currently being renovated,
and a pedestrian underpass built which will allow people
to get to it without risking their lives. QA-2, Piata Arcul de
Triumf, MAviatorilor.
ATHENEUM (ATENEUL ROMN) Possibly the finest building in the city, the Romanian Atheneum, with its
sublime baroque cupola, stands proudly at the flux of the
citys busiest public square, competing with the Athenee
Palace Hilton hotel, the Royal Palace and the old national
library for attention. The work of French architect Albert
Galleron, who also designed the National Bank of Romania, the building was inaugurated on February 26, 1888,
and was built almost entirely with money donated by
ordinary citizens of the capital, when a campaign called
Give a penny for the Atheneum (Dati un leu pentru Ateneu)
rescued the project from folly after the original patrons ran
out of funds. Today the seat of the Romanian Philarmonic
HISTORIC CHURCHES
ANTIM MONASTERY (MANASTIREA ANTIM)
The splendid Antim Monastery, with its elegant dome and
gold finish was constructed between 1708 and 1715 on
the orders of polymath Antim Ivireanul, patriarch of the
Orthodox Church in Wallachia at the time. Antim originally
intended the monastery to be a refuge for fallen women
and refugees, as well as a seat of learning. The bell tower
through which we today enter the monastery was added in
1857. The monastery church is particularly worth admiring
for its icons featuring the Nativity and Revelations, painted
in 1812 by Petre Alexandrescu.QB-6, Str. Antim 29.
APOSTLES CHURCH (BISERICA SFINTII APOSTOLI) One of the oldest churches in Bucharest (with parts dating back to the 16th century, when it served as the church
of the Trnovului Monastery) the Apostles Church is notable
for its sublime steeple, built in 1715 and restored in 1936.
Inside the church is brimming with some rather strange
portraits, all of which are well worth seeing. Among the
portraits are those of the churchs founder, Voivod Matei.
QB-6, Str. Sfintii Apostoli 33A, MPiata Unirii.
George Enescu, the auditorium is renowned worldwide for

its outstanding acoustics. QC-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin
1-3, tel. (+4) 021 315 25 67, www.fge.org.ro. Open 14:00
- 16:00.
CASA PRESEI LIBERE (CASA SCNTEII) An impressive edifice standing somewhat menacingly at the entrance
to the capital, Casa Scanteii (as it is still universally known)
was designed by architect Horia Maicu and completed in
1956, one year after the strikingly similar (though much
taller) Palace of Science and Culture in Warsaw, Poland. Built
to serve as the home of the capitals publishing houses, the
facade has in recent years been defaced by the addition of
advertising hoardings. QA-1, Piata Presei Libere 1.
CEC The home of the National Savings Bank (Casa de
Economii si Consemnaiuni; CEC) is one of the most fabulous
Neo-Classical facades in the city: the enormous arch that
houses the entrance, with its mighty Corinthian columns,
is a highlight of any architectural tour of Bucharest. Built
during the last decade of the nineteenth century, to the
designs of French architect Paul Gottereau, the building is
no less impressive on the inside.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 13.
PALATUL DIN PIATA VICTORIEI (PALATUL VICTORIEI) Today the home of the Romanian government, this
linear construction was built in 1937 to the design of Duiliu
Marcu, originally to house the Foreign Ministry (which is now
elsewhere). Entrance is only granted to those on government
business. QB-4, B-dul Ilie Pintilie 1, MPiata Victoriei.
ARMENIAN CHURCH (BISERICA ARMENEASC)

Now overlooked by a hideous skyscraper, this is nevertheless one of the largest and best preserved Orthodox
churches in central Bucharest. The church (built between
1911-15) is an exact replica of a cathedral in the Armenian
city of Ecmiazin, and serves the citys once large but now
miniscule Armenian population. Next to the church is an
interesting library with a large number of documents relating to the Armenian population (phone ahead for access). QD-5, B-dul Carol I 43, tel. (+4) 021 313 90 70,
www.armenianchurch.ro.
BARATIEI CHURCH (BISERICA BARATIEI)
Almost poking into Bulevardul Bratianu, this particular
Roman-Catholic church was built in 1828, although there
has been a church here since the late 1590s. Boasting a
couple of superb stained-glass windows the church holds
services in Romanian and Hungarian. The name, Baratiei,
derives from the Hungarian word for friend, barat. QC-6,
Str. Baratiei 27, MPiata Unirii/Universitate.
BUCUR CHURCH First built as early as 1416, this could
well be the site of the oldest church in Bucharest. Nobody
is exactly sure how long there has been a church here, but
we do know that it predates the Radu Voda monastery opposite, which was first constructed in 1506. Today, the Bucur Church is often ignored, hidden as it is on a hill above
the street. The current church was built around 1720 (thoroughly renovated in 1909-10) to serve as a chapel for the
cemetery of the Radu Voda monastery. The church - and
the hill on which it stand were recently consolidated in order to prevent them falling further towards the Dambovita
river, just a few metres behind. The church is named for
Bucur the Shepherd, the legendary founder of Bucharest.
QC-7, Str. Radu Voda 33, www.biserica-bucur.ro.
COLEA CHURCH (BISERICA COLEA) To the left

(face on) of the Colea hospital, the church of the same
name was built from 1701-2 on the site of an older, wooden
construction. Recent renovation has restored much of
the rich ornamentation of the interior, most of which was
painted in 1876 by Gheorghe Tattarescu. Look out for the
Cantacuzino family crest above the vaguely Italian baroque
portal. The church (like the hospital which surrounds it) was
founded by courtier Mihai Cantacuzino. A statue of Cantacuzino stands just inside the entrance to the hospital courtyard. QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 1, MUniversitate.
CREULESCU CHURCH (BISERICA CREULESCU)
Probably the most celebrated historic church in Bucharest.
Biserica Creulescu was raised from 1720-2 by Iordache
Creulescu and his wife Safta, a daughter of Romanian ruler
Constantin Brncoveanu. The outstanding paintings on the
entrance are original, the work of an unknown artist, while
the interior icons were added in 1859 by the prolific Gheorghe Tattarescu. Damaged during the fighting of December
1989, the church has recently been restored to its full glory,
and is a must. QC-5, Calea Victoriei 47, MUniversitate.
DOMNIA BALAA CHURCH To say this church has
been the victim of bad luck is an understatement. Built in
1885, the church is named after Constantin Brncoveanus
sixth daughter, who built an earlier church on the site in
1744, but which burnt down soon after. In 1751 a second
church was built; but that was also later damaged, during
an earthquake in 1838. Building work almost immediately
45
Sightseeing
started on a third church, but that too proved unstable and
just 40 years later it was replaced by the current, orangecoloured, Neo-Romanesque building. Serious cracks that
appeared after another earthquake in 1940 were repaired in
the 1960s, only to be damaged again in the massive earthquake of 1977.QB-6, Str. Sfintii Apostoli, MPiata Unirii.
MIHAI VOD MONASTERY (MNSTIREA MIHAI
VOD) One of the churches that was moved to make way
for the Civic Centre, Mihai Vod was originally built in 1601.
After a fire in 1761 it was left to rot before thorough rebuilding was carried out from 1827-38. In 1985 it was moved 285
metres east - on rails - and hidden in its present location behind the apartment blocks. QB-6, Str. Sapienei 2, MIzvor.
NEW ST. GEORGES CHURCH (BISERICA SF. GHEORGHE NOU) The largest of the churches built in Bucharest
during the reign of Constantin Brncoveanu, New St. Georges
Church was consecrated on June 29th, 1707. It was a wonder
of the age, having been designed by an Italian, Vaseleli, and
decorated by the great Romanian maestros of the times: the
painter Mutu, the carpenter Istrate and the sculptor Caragea.
Damaged in a fire in 1847, the church was renovated from
1852-3 by the Spanish architect Villacrosse. New and outstanding interior murals were added by Marian Popp. Brncoveanu is himself buried at the church, currently undergoing
renovation.QC-6, Piata Sf. Gheorghe, MPiata Unirii.
NEW ST. JOHNS CHURCH (BISERICA SFANTUL
IOAN NOU) Entirely hidden by blocks, few visitors to - or
even residents of - Bucharest are even aware of this churchs
existence. It is in fact right in the centre of the city, opposite
Unirea Shopping Centre, behind the Raifeissen bank on the
corner of B-dul Corneliu Coposu and B-dul I. C. Bratianu.
Founded in 1774 the small church boasts two exterior frescoes as well as a richly ornamental interior, complete with
golden altar. QC-6, Piata Unirii, MPiata Unirii.
PATRIARCHAL CATHEDRAL (PATRIARHIA) Set atop
one of the citys hills, the Patriarchal Cathedral has been the
centrepiece of the Romanian Orthodox faith since the seventeenth century. Built to a design based on the Curtea de
Arges near Pitesti, it has undergone a number of facelifts over
the years, but the overwhelming majority of the cathedrals
structure is the original, built between 1654 and 1658. The
outstanding bell-tower at the entrance was built in 1698, and
restored in 1958. Next to the church is the Patriarchal Palace,
residence of the patriarch of the Romanian Orthodox Church.
QC-6/7, Str. Dealul Mitropoliei, MPiata Unirii.
RADU VOD MONASTERY (MNSTIREA RADU
VOD) There was originally a wooden church on this
site, built during the reign of Mihnea the Bad, around 1508.
The monastery was added in 1570, and was dedicated to
the Holy Trinity. The present church - which resembles the
Curtea de Arge, outside Piteti - dates from 1613-4, though
it was extensively rebuilt during the 19th century, when the
frescoes (the work of peerless painter Gheorghe Tattarescu)
were added. QC-6, Str. Radu Vod 24A, MPiata Unirii.
SCHITUL DARVARI (DARVARI HERMITAGE) The

walled Schitul Darvari - with its lovely grounds - is a gorgeous oasis of peace and quiet in busy central Bucharest.
Founded in 1834 by Mihai Darvari and his wife Elena - who
purchased the site from the Biserica Icoanei - it was originally
a private church for the Darvari family. Renovated extensively in 1894 and again from 1933-4, a community of monks
lived here continuously from 1835 to 1959, when they were
forced to move to Cernica Monastery by Romanias communist authorities.QC-5, Str. Schitul Darvari 3, www.schituldarvari.ro. Open 07:30 - 19:30.
MUSEUMS
ART COLLECTION MUSEUM (MUZEUL COLECTIILOR DE ART) Firstly, a few words about the building.
The Casa Romanit was constructed in 1822 as a private
residence, before being bought by the state in 1883 to
serve as the countrys supreme court. There are presently
some fantastic works on show here, including paintings
by all of Romanias greatest artists, from Nicolae Grigorescu to Theodor Pallady. In terms of artistic importance the
collections here are second only to those at the National
Museum of Art. QB-4, Calea Victoriei 111, tel. (+4) 021
212 96 41/(+4) 021 212 96 42. Open 10:00-10:00. Closed
Thu, Fri. Admission 7.00 lei, students/children 3.50 lei.
COTROCENI MUSEUM Constructed from 1888-93 at
the behest of Romanias first king, Carol I, Cotroceni Palace has since 1991 been the official residence of the Romanian President. Built on the site of a former monastery
(the foundations and cellars of which remain, and form
part of the tour of the palace), the palace was designed
by a French team of architects, led by Paul Gottereau. The
Looking for our

Jewish Bucharest feature?
See page 28 or go to:
iyp.me/jewishbucharest
47
Sightseeing
SIGHTSEEING TOURS
CULTURAL TRAVEL & TOURS
CT&T provides tailor-made heritage sightseeing tours of
Bucharest (from 29), a number of themed tours around
Wallachia and Transylvania, and several nationwide
tours of varying lengths. Other flexible services and
guides in a variety of languages are available on request.
QTel./fax (+4) 021 336 31 63, tel. (+4) 0724 71 88 48,
www.cttours.ro.
Sightseeing
TRANSVISION TransVision runs a number of tours, including a Dracula Tour which takes in Peles Castle, Rasnov Citadel
and Dracula (Bran) Castle in Transylvania. The price is 59/
person. Another option is a two-day tour of Transylvania, also
including Sibiu, Sighisoara and Brasov. The price is 159/person and includes a night at a three-star hotel with breakfast.
All tours include free pick-up and return from any Bucharest
hotel, as well as an English-speaking guide (other languages
available).Qtel. (+4) 0755 05 26 21, www.transvision.ro.
MR. TRIPP Mr. Tripp offers a number of terrific tours,

not the least of which is the excellent value four-hour
tour of Mogosoaia and Snagov for 49, which includes
the tomb of Vlad Tepes (Dracula). There is also a full-day
trip of Sighisoara, Brasov and Sinaia (79), and they will
even pick you up from, and drop you off back at, your
hotel, for free. All entrance fees also included.QC-5,
Calea Victoriei 68-70, tel. (+4) 0745 75 27 53, www.
traveltobucharest.com.
TRAVELMAKER TravelMaker operates escorted group

tours from and around Bucharest, an airport shuttle service
and private transfers. Their half-day tour of the city (29) is
an excellent introduction to Bucharest. They also provide
hotel accommodation all over Romania, city break packages
and short trips. The agency offers the only daily group tour
(which anyone can join) to Peles Castle and Bran (Draculas)
Castle for 69 per person.QStr. Elena Vacarescu 9, bl. XXI2, tel. (+4) 021 232 03 31, www.bucharestcitytour.com.
Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
ROMANIATOGO Visit Romania, pretty much all of it

with these people. Besides organising no fewer than
four tours of Bucharest (including a Communist Heritage Tour) there are also loads of Romania excursions to
choose from to. These include Transylvania In One Day,
RomaniaToGo, Must See Romania and Meeting Dracula.
All tours feature free hotel pick-ups and drop-offs, as
well as a local guide. Can also arrange airport transfers.
Qtel. (+4) 0733 55 78 50, www.romania-to-go.com.
VMS CITYSHUTTLE VMS CityShuttle offers a number

of tours of Bucharest and the surrounding area, as well
as the Prahova Valley and southern Transylvania (including Bran Castle). Prices start at 25 for a half day tour of
Bucharest, and 49 for the Bran Tour. Trips to the Buzau
wineries, Sibiu and Sighisoara via the Transfagarasan,
the Black Sea and Danube Delta available on request.
QStr. Nicolae Caramfil 87, et. 6, EKA Building, tel. (+4)
021 204 77 77, www.cityshuttle.ro. Open 24 hours.
design would form something of a blueprint for Romanian

domestic architecture for years to come. It served as the
Bucharest residence of the Romanian royal family until
1939. Part of the palace is open to the public, and can be
visited on a tour.QB-dul Geniului 1, MPolitehnica, tel.
(+4) 021 317 31 07, www.muzeulcotroceni.ro. Open
09:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 27 lei, students
and children 21 lei. Admission includes entrance and
the compulsory guided tour. Tours are available in Romanian, French and English. Last tour begins at 16:30.
GEOLOGY MUSEUM Far more than just a collection of
old rocks and fossils, Bucharests Geology Museum is one
of the citys must sees. First off, there is the museum building itself to admire. Built in 1906 on the orders of King Carol
I to house what was then known as the Royal Romanian
Geology Society, the building is a splendid example of
Neo-Brancovenesque architecture, and is far more impressive than its red-brick neighbour, the Peasant Museum. The
museums permanent collections are impressive in size and
- being logically presented - clarity, with a decent number
of English captions. QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 2, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 212 89 52, www.geology.ro. Open 10:00
- 18:00. Admission 8 lei, students and children 4 lei. There
is an extra charge for cameras of 30 lei. Guided tours in
Romanian 20 lei, English and French 30 lei.
NATIONAL TECHNICAL MUSEUM (MUZEUL

TEHNIC DIMITRIE LEONIDA)
Often unfairly derided as an outdated museum of technology, it should be remembered that the machines, turbines,
inventions and gadgets on display here are not meant to
be cutting edge. At least not in this day and age. They
were all, however, cutting edge when they first appeared,
with some of the older steam engines dating back to the
beginning of the 19th century. The museum is housed in
something of a cherished relic itself: the last remaining
pavilion (one of many) built (like the Carol Park in which it
stands) to host the 1906 Romania in the World Fair. QC-7,
Str. Gen. Candiano Popescu 2, tel. (+4) 021 336 93 90.
Open 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6 lei,
students, children 3 lei.
THEODOR PALLADY MUSEUM (CASA MELIK,
MUZEUL THEODOR PALLADY) Theodor Pallady
(1871-1953) was an early Cubist artist widely regarded as
Romanias most influential 20th century painter. Schooled
in Dresden and Paris, Pallady was influenced by the Symbolist environment of the late 19th century, and his paintings before 1916 contain Symbolist motifs, sometimes
with echoes of Moreau and Puvis de Chavannes. Alas the
small museum that today bears his name has only six of his
paintings, a couple of his sketches and assorted other art.
The museums saving grace is the house in which it is hosted: the oldest in Bucharest. Originally called the Casa Melik,
it was built around 1750 by the rich Armenian Hagi Kevork
Nazaretoglu.QD-5, Str. Sptarului 22, tel. (+4) 021 211 49
79. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5
lei, students and children 2.50 lei.
PARKS & GARDENS

BOTANICAL GARDENS (GRDINA BOTANIC)
Bucharests rather fabulous Botanical Gardens were founded in 1860 with the significant financial backing of Prince
Alexandru Ioan Cuza, at the time the leader of the nascent
Romanian state. Completed in 1866 to the designs and instructions of Ulrich Hoffmann, they were originally in the
grounds of the Cotroceni Monastery, moving to their present location in 1884. The gardens today extend over an
area of more than 17 hectares, and host more than 10,000
species of plants, approximately half of which are cultivated in the impressive glasshouses, recently renovated
and fabulous: kids love the wide variety of strange plants
inside, especially the cacti and the Venus fly traps.QSos.
Cotroceni 32, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 410 91 39,
www.gradina-botanica.ro. Gardens Open 08:00-20:00.
Botanical Museum Open 10:00-15:00, 09:00-13:00 Sat,
Sun, Closed Fri. Greenhouses Open 10:00-13:00, Closed
Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission to the gardens 5.00 lei, students and children 2.00 lei. Museum and greenhouses
cost extra: 2 lei adults, 1 leu children.
CAROL PARK (PARCUL CAROL I) Designed in 1906
by the French landscape artist Eduard Redont, Carol Park
is today dominated by the massive Monument to the
Heroes of the Struggle for Freedom and Socialism
(it stands 48 metres high) built in 1963 and which until
1990 housed the remains of communist leaders Gheorghe
Gheorghiu-Dej and Petre Groza (it is today the site of the
tomb of the unknown Romanian soldier). The park offers
some pleasant walks along tree-lined paths, playgrounds
and terraces, and a good view of central Bucharest from
the monument. The Arenele Romane in the west of the
park, next to the observatory of the Astronomic Institute
of the Romanian Academy is a popular venue for concerts.
Close by is the gorgeous Cutitul de Argint Church,
built in 1796 and famous for its many exterior icons. On

the other side of the park it is worth looking out for the
medieval-looking Tepes Castle (which in fact dates from
1906), once a water tower but now used as offices. QC-7,
Calea Serban Vod, MEroii Revolutiei.
CISMIGIU GARDENS (GRDINA CISMIGIU)
The most central of the citys public gardens, Cismigiu is a
haven of lawns, trees, flowers and lakes. Cismigiu was first
designed and laid out in 1845 by the German landscape
architect Carl Meyer, but not completed until 1860. More
than 30,000 trees and plants were brought in from the Romanian mountains, while exotic plants were fetched from
the botanical gardens in Vienna. Highlights of the 17 hectare garden include the Roman Garden, laid out in the style
of ancient Rome, and including busts of Romanias most
famous writers, and the lake, which come winter can be
skated on.QB-5, Between B-dul Regina Elisabeta, Calea
Victoriei, Str. Stirbei Vod and B-dul Schitu Mgureanu,
MUniversitate.
HERSTRU PARK This glorious park, spread over 187
hectares around Herastrau lake is one of the jewels in Bucharests crown, which might explain why half of the city
chooses to spend its Sunday afternoons here. The first thing
you will see when entering the park from Piata Charles de
Gaulle is a tall, bronze, rather bizarre statue of de Gaulle
himself. Unveiled in 2006 the statue is the work of local artist Mircea Corneliu Spataru, and was commissioned by the
Ministry of Culture to commemorate Bucharests hosting
that year of the Francophonie conference. Charles de Gaulle
is not the only historic figure honoured in this part of the
park with a statue or bust, however. In fact, the alleyways
and paths which fan out from the entrance are all dotted
with famous people, from Romanian revolutionary Nicolae
Balcescu to Bengali literatures most important figure, Rabindranath Tagore. Look out also for local artists Nicolae Grigorescu, Constantin Brancusi and Theodor Aman, as well as
writers George Cosbuc, Alexandru Vlahuta and Romanias
national poet, Mihai Eminescu. Other foreigners honoured
with statues include William Shakespeare, Ady Endre, Sandor Petofi and Victor Hugo. Oh, and theres a memorial
to Michael Jackson too. Yes, really.QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32,
MAviatorilor.
49
Old Town
Old Town
Opera
Novotel
Grand
Continental
stic
Maje
Capitol
Casa
Caps
Cismigiu
Museum of
Bucharest
Z Boutique
K&K
Elisabeta
Coltea Church
& Hospital
Central
Doamnei
Russian
Church
Rembrandt
Mihai Voda
History
Museum
Stavropoleos
Tania
Church
Baratiei
Sf. Dumitru
Old Court Palace
& Church
Cocor
Europa Royale
Domnita
Balasa
Old Town - which most locals call Centru Vechi (Old Centre)
- is a little pocket of 19th and early 20th century Bucharest
which survived both the bombing of World War II and the
bulldozers of Romanias communist planners. It is described
by Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta and Piata Universitatii to the
north, Bulevardul IC Bratianu to the east, the river to the
south and Calea Victoriei to the west. Not more than one
kilometre square, the area boasts more restaurants, pubs
and clubs than any other district in the city.
vehicles strictly limited (well, strictly by Romanian standards). There is an underground car park at Piata Universitatii,
accessed via Strada Doamnei. Taxis will usually drop you off
at what is known as La Bariera (at the bottom end of Strada
Selari) or at the National Bank. When leaving the Old Town
always be careful to take an honest taxi: see page eight for
more on taxis in Bucharest.
GETTING THERE
Begin your exploration of Old Town at the four statues in

Piata Universitatii, before heading to the Russian Church
(officially called the St. Nicholas Students Church). From
here, its worth popping along to the Museum of Bucharest in the Sutu Palace before doubling back along Strada
Ion Ghica until you get to the National Bank, on the other
side of which is the majestic Pasajul Macca-Villacrosse, and
Strada Lipscani: the street whose name is often used to
describe the whole Old Town area. Then make sure you
head along Strada Stavropoleos to see its architectural
gems: the church which shares its name and the Caru cu
Bere pub and restaurant. Head out on to Calea Victoriei to
take a look at the Zlatari Church, National History Museum
and CEC building before coming back into the Old Town
via Strada Franceza and the Sf. Dumitru Church. At the far
end, in Piata Sf Anton, is the Old Court Palace and Church:
the very raison detre of the entire Old Town area. The Hanul
Manuc is opposite. For more details on all of the sights you
will spot along the way, see the Old Town Sights listings,
which begin on page 63.
You can walk to the Old Town from most parts of the city
centre. Two metro stations serve the area: Piata Universitatii
to the north and Piata Unirii to the south. Note that most
of the Old Towns streets are pedestrianised, with access for
OLD TOWN WALK
OLD TOWN CAFES

BRUNO WINE & COFFEE SHOP So much more than
wine and coffee on offer here you will be forgiven for
thinking you have the wrong place! This is a bistro really, a
genuine French style place, where good wine by the glass
is available next to a decent spread of simple food, with
a regularly changing menu.QC-6, Str. Covaci 3, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 317 17 41/(+4) 0757 55 72 91, www.
brunowine.ro. Open 16:00 - 24:00. PBSW
FRENCH BAKERY Bucharests smartest chain of bakeries comes to Old Town, complete with its fine selection of
sandwiches, delicious tarts and cakes, great coffee and a
super terrace - in the right weather - outside on the sexiest part of Old Town. Could be just about the best place in
Bucharest for coffee, regardless of the time of day.QC-6,
Str. Smardan 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 316 10 27,
www.frenchbakery.ro. Open 09:30 - 24:00. PBSW
GODOT CAFE TEATRU Cafe, bistro and theatre on Strada Blanari in the Old Town. There are performances every
day (with matinees at weekends) of all sorts of plays, from
Shakespeare to Neil Simon and contemporary Romanian
productions, and feature plenty of top local acting talent.
Even actors used to bigger stages make a habit of performing here in the uniquely intimate auditorium. Theres some
good simple food too, such as pasta, salads, omelettes: that
kind of thing. A highly recommendable experience.QC-6,
Str. Blanari 14, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 316 16 82/
(+4) 0736 41 42 44, www.godotcafeteatru.ro. Open 12:00

- 05:00. Box office open daily 12:00-19:00. PW
GRAND CAFE VAN GOGH Amazing how quickly this
place became the default Bucharest meet you there venue. Its genius is that its ideal at every time of day: morning
coffee or breakfast sat in front of one of the long windows,
a business lunch at one of the wooden tables, a meal and
a late night at the bar. The food is good - simple and very
reasonably priced - and this Dutch owned, friendly cafe is
a winner: you will go back more than once. There is also
a specialist wine bar downstairs, meeting and function
rooms upstairs, and they now do a great brunch, on Saturday and Sunday from 10:00-16:00.QC-6, Str. Smardan 9,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 107 63 71, www.vangogh.
ro. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Fri 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Non-smoking lounge open
17:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 -24:00. PSW
KLEIN CAFE Good cafe situated on the mezzanine floor
of the Rembrandt hotel; it is the only non-smoking cafe in
the Old Town we believe. They serve a great continental
breakfast until 10am, with a vast selection of croissants,
muffins, Dutch cheeses, meats, yoghurts, cereals and freshly
squeezed orange juice, while throughout the rest of the day
fresh, warm waffles are served with a choice of toppings.
Good hot chocolate, and a wide range of exotic teas. Nice.
QC-6, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313
93 15/(+4) 021 313 93 16, www.rembrandt.ro. Open 07:00
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PGSW
51
Old Town
LES BOURGEOIS
A veritable Strada Smardan legend of a venue, whose
longevity is a credit to its management who keep rethinking and reinventing the menu and making sure there is
always good reason to come and eat, drink or just have
one of over 30 (we counted) coffees here. Foodwise, there
is plenty to choose from: so much in fact that making individual recommendations is pointless. Everyone will find
something they like. Top desserts, too. Get in.QC-6, Str.
Smardan 20, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 310 60 52/
(+4) 0720 13 29 94, www.lesbourgeois.ro. Open 10:00
- 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PSW
VALEA REGILOR Thick Turkish coffee served in one of
Calea Victorieis grand old passages. Alongside the coffee and cakes - sweet and sickly but irresistible - you can
also get your hands on a Nargile, those Turkish water pipes
that offer an allegedly much healthier way to smoke tobacco.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 16-20 (Pasajul Villacrosse),
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 311 29 69/(+4) 0761 50
03 00, www.valea-regilor.ro. Open 09:00 - 03:00.
NBSW
OLD TOWN RESTAURANTS

While probably famed more for its nightlife than its food,
the Old Town area of Bucharest is in fact home to some
superb places to eat: both high end, fine-dining establishments as well as kebabs and take-aways.
Old Town
FOOD & DRINK
FINE DINING
MULANRUJ DINING THEATRE & CLUB
Upstairs at Bordellos is the Mulanruj Dining Theatre, a
dinner and events venue where there is regular cabaret,
stand-up comedy, live music and theme parties and such
like. There is a wide range of dining options, and the food
- as you would expect from the people who run Bordellos
- is very good. You get all the details about upcoming
events and performances from Bordellos or the venues
Facebook page.QC-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0748 88 10 85, www.bordellos.ro. Open 19:00 24:00. . PEW
THE ARTIST RESTAURANT
Consistently brilliant, this is food as art. The work of a young
Dutch chef, this amazing restaurant is something special.
The menu changes with the seasons, and the Dover sole
with parsnips and raisin chutney is probably our pick of
the current menu, alongside the homemade truffle turkey
sausage. For dessert, the cucumber sorbet is a refreshing
surprise. The restaurant offers a spoon tasting menu for
those who want to try all the main courses currently being served. In keeping with the food the restaurant itself is
contemporary and upmarket, a mix of the bright and the
simple, chic without ever going over the top. Prices reflect
the high quality.QC-6, Str. Nicolae Tonitza 13, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0728 31 88 71, www.theartist.ro. Open
12:30 - 23:00. Closed Mon. . PW
BURGERBAR Not just another Bucharest burger bar,

this place could well be the Bucharest burger bar. Served
with fantastic, chunky, Belgian-style fries, crispy onion
rings, four homemade sauces and Heinz ketchup they
have gone the extra mile here. The burgers are made on
the spot from fresh ground beef, and there are loads of
toppings to choose from. Kids love the mini-burgers. The
OLD TOWN SHOPS

SOUVENIR SHOP Everything you would want from
a decent souvenir shop - with both Romania and Bucharest branded gifts available - and more besides.
QC-5, Str. Smardan 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0722 32 25 40/(+4) 0723 65 55 84, www.souvenirshop.com.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
THOMAS ANTIQUES By common consent the best
antique shop in the city. Stocks everything from furniture and paintings to clocks and decorations, with
new pieces being added all the time. Upstairs you can
even drink coffee, beer or cocktails in the bar: yep,
sit and drink coffee on an antique chair and picture
yourself doing the same at home.QC-6, Str. Covaci
19, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0752 44 08 18, (+4) 021
310 43 89, www.thomas-antiques.ro. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PW
desserts are OK too: you havent eaten a fudge in Bucharest until youve tried the one theyre serving here. Add
in funky contemporary decor and you have a place we
are more than happy to recommend.QC-6, Str. Lipscani
(Pasajul Selari), MPiata Universitatii, tel. (+4) 021 313
03 76. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Also at
(B-3) Calea Dorobantilor 182, tel. (+40) 21 233 90 96. .
PVSW
EMBASSY HANUL CU TEI Making very good use of the
courtyard of Hanul cu Tei, always one of our favourite parts of
Lipscani, Embassy is a terrace (in summer) and indoor lounge
which serves food and drink to an older, wiser and simply
nicer crowd than many other places we could mention in
Old Town. Good bistro food, decent cocktails and reasonable prices. For those in the know, this is the sister establishment of the original Embassy on Piata Lahovari.QC-6, Str.
Lipscani 63-65, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 03,
www.embassy-hanulcutei.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00. Also at
(C-4) P-ta Lahovari 8, Open 11:30-03:00. . PSW
FRENCH
BON Fabulous food in a wonderful setting, created using
antique doors and window frames, the work of the designer du jour in this part of the world, who also came up
with the concept for Energiea, Atelier Mecanic, Biutiful and
La Bonne Bouche (to which it bears a passing resemblance).
The food is worthy of the surroundings: the onion soup
with Gruyere is amazing, the New Zealand lamb chops
53
Old Town
Old Town
INDIAN
LITTLE INDIA It was about time Old Town got itself a
decent curry house, and Little India is it. From the same
people who have been cooking up first class Indian food
at Karishma for more than a decade now, this superb place
has quickly become the talk of Lipscani. Expect a similar
menu to the one at Karishma, including a couple of searing
vindaloos, and a lamb rogan josh to rival that of any Indian
anywhere. Plenty for vegetarians, and the mango shake
is a treat.QC-6, Str. Franceza 7, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0720 78 67 86. Open 12:00 - 23:30. . PVSW
ITALIAN
tender, and the mussels fresh. Prices are reasonable given
the quality, although if you hit the oysters and champagne
of course the bill will be high!QC-6, Str. Smardan 33,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 367 21 98/(+4) 0721 37 56
22, www.bonrestaurant.ro. Open 12:30 - 24:00. Closed
Mon. . PSW
CHOCOLAT Hard to pin this place down. Is it a cafe serving chocolate, or a chocolate shop serving a little coffee? In
fact, it is neither. It is a brilliant restaurant serving delicious,
well priced light meals (soups, pasta, salad) of a French and
Italian bent. There is chocolate of course - loads of it - as
well as more kinds of gourmet bread than we could possibly list. Find it next to Caru cu Bere.QC-5, Calea Victoriei
12A, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 03 41 75/(+4) 021 314
92 45, www.chocolat.com.ro. Open 08:30 - 23:30. Also at
(B-3) Str. Radu Beller 13, tel. (+4) 021 230 23 83, Afi Palace
Cotroceni, tel. (+4) 0727 84 68 02 and Baneasa Shopping
City, tel. (+4) 0730 60 88 88. . PSW
LA BONNE BOUCHE
Does what it does - simple French bistro food - better than
anywhere else in the city. Try the sublime onion soup,
calves liver with sage and garlic mash and the lemon
meringue pie. Look for the chefs specials too. An open
kitchen is always a good sign, and we love the variety
of reading material in the toilets. Just a brilliantly simple
place. Note that they accept Amex cards: not everywhere
does in Bucharest.QC-6, Str. Franceza 30, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 0731 24 78 76, www.labonnebouche.ro. Open

12:00 - 23:30. . PESW
GREEK
FOOD & TRAVEL CONCEPT STORE You can now
taste Greece while booking a holiday to... Greece. This
bright eatery complete with blue and white chequered
tablecloths opposite the National Bank in the Old Town
serves a good range of Greek dishes (including decentsized salads made with real Greek cheese and superb fresh
grilled sardines) for more than reasonable prices. Plenty of
meze options, so we recommend just ordering a load of
those and tucking in.QC-6, Str. Smardan 7, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0720 80 02 40, www.foodtravel.ro/. Open
10:00 - 01:00. . PESW
MEZE TAVERNA Another excellent Greek restaurant. It
even looks the part - we love the lampshades made from
empty olive oil cans - while the food itself is seriously,
seriously good. There is tons of seafood on the gorgeous
menu (the fish soup and the prawns with tomatoes and
cheese are musts), alongside what is some of the best
lamb weve eaten in Bucharest. The Greek burger is a nice
treat too. The chef, Georgios, is always coming up with
tasty daily specials. The house red is a drinkable bargain.
QC-6, Str. Nicolae Tonita 6, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021
539 53 53, www.mezetaverna.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00.
. PESW
BEL MONDO A good Italian restaurant, one of the better ones in the Old Town, which offers decent food - we
recommend the fresh tomato soup with mozarella - at
prices that are more than reasonable. The pizzas are excellent (and huge) and the space itself is big, open, light and
blessed with sensationally high ceilings. Easily the best
occupant of the old Amsterdam Cafe location since Amsterdam itself. Big terrace too as long as the weather is good.
QC-6, Str. Covaci 6, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0725 96 66
36/(+4) 0721 22 02 73, www.restaurantbelmondo.ro.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PSW
COCO BONGO Love the name, love the attitude. Looks
more like a pub from outside, and in fact it is both pub
and restaurant, the kind of place you can eat very well but
nobody minds if you just spend all night on the sauce. The
food is Italian, is good if a little pricey (some of the dishes,
anyway). The pizzas are good and cheap though, and the
service good, quick and friendly. Worth a look.QC-6, Str.
Covaci 1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0754 02 04 34, www.
coco-bongo.ro. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00.
. PESW
in Bucharest (at the right time of year) make it a seriously

good eat and watch the world go by type place. (And at
weekends, it can feel like the whole city is going by).QC-6,
Str. Franceza 52, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0733 11 04 64,
www.trattoriabuongiorno.ro. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 08:00 - 02:00. Also at (B-2) Str. Herstru 2; (B-4) Bdul Lascar Cartagiu 56; Baneasa Shopping Center, 1st
floor. . PBSW
VECCHIO 1812
We love it. Making fantastic use of a gorgeous old building
on Strada Covaci, this Italian restaurant looks and feels like
the kind of place you want spend all evening in. The food is
superior Italian, as you would expect from one of the citys
best chefs, and while prices are not cheap they certainly
reflect quality. The jacket potatoes in a salt crust are one of
the best (and most original) starters we have ever tasted
in Bucharest. Go there.QC-6, Str. Covaci 16, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 031 430 95 77, www.vecchio1812.ro. Open
11:00 - 24:30. . PSW
LEBANESE
SINDBAD New Lebanese restaurant in Old Town serving what might just be the best lentil soup in Bucharest.
Fabulous fresh bread too (made on site) and a decent
range of mutton dishes as main courses. Theres both an
exterior (at the right time of year) and interior terrace, and
the decor is vaguely Middle Eastern without over-doing it.
TRATTORIA BUONGIORNO
We have always loved Trattoria Buongiorno, and have
quickly become big fans of its most recent location in
the Old Town. Decent Italian food (there is a small but
good selection of fish dishes which are well worth looking out for). and one of the biggest and busiest terraces
55
Old Town
Old Town
at (C-6) Str. Covaci 19, tel. (+4) 0727 62 62 62; (B-2) B-dul
Primaverii 3, tel. (+4) 021 233 98 18 and Calea Floreasca
175, tel. (+4) 0727 54 33 33. . PVEBSW
We liked the comfy chairs.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 19, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 317 77 88/(+4) 0735 22 28 88,
www.restaurantsindbad.ro. Open 11:00 - 01:00. .
PVSW
MEDITERRANEAN
CHARME Some of the finest food in Old Town, served
in one of the most elegant and classiest locations around.
Check out the nice little touches such as high quality
bread and olives, the high ceilings and airy atmosphere,
then order some fine, light Californian-inspired cuisine.
Its a winner from start to finish.QC-6, Str. Smardan 12,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0737 50 38 90, www.charme.
ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. .
PBSW
MODERN EUROPEAN
LOCAL COLONIAL
With its lovely little booths this place has the feel of a rather upmarket American diner. In fact, it is far more than that:
a superb restaurant serving some fairly inventive food - including some sublime desserts - alongside a long list of
cocktails and a decent selection of wine. There are plenty
of live events, including concerts from local bands and
musicians. Its a relaxed place, and you will want to spend
a long evening here.QC-6, Str. Covaci 19, tel. (+4) 0762
00 00 01, www.localcolonial.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat
11:00 - 24:00. . PSW
CRAMA DOMNEASCA Right in the heart of Bucharests

historic centre, this is Romanian food of indeed historic
proportions. You can expect right royal portions of all your
Romanian favourites, from spare ribs and mutton to tender
pork steaks. The home baked bread is always served warm
and the wine flows copiously as evenings get longer and
longer. Its the kind of place where you will be discretely but
contentedly loosening your belt before the night is done.
QC-6, Str. Selari 13-15, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0758 33 30
00, www.cramadomneasca.net. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon
14:00-24:00. . PVESW
ROMANIAN
CARU CU BERE Should probably be the first stop on
the food and drink list of any visitor to Bucharest. Wonderful interiors - painted ceilings, ornate woodwork - make
the place an attraction in itself, but do not leave without
trying some food. The breakfast is worth getting up early
for, the sarmale with mamaliga terrific, and the baked apple a simple, tasty treat. They even serve their own rather
good beer. The service is usually good (now: it never used
to be; back in the 1980s and 1990s it was infamously bad)
and there is a terrace in summer. We should also mention
the touristy but nevertheless enjoyable folklore show
which takes place most evenings.QC-6, Str. Stavropoleos
5, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 75 60/(+4) 0726 28
23 73, www.carucubere.ro. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 02:00. . PESW
LACRIMI SI SFINTI
Romanian poet, revolutionary and raconteur Mircea Dinescus latest culinary adventure is this classy place in
the Old Town. As much a showcase for the (very good)
wines Dinescu produces on his country estate as anything
else, the food is good: a selection of traditional Romanian
dishes with a big focus on game. The prices are decent
enough and the place is charmingly decorated (look out
for the signs for the loos, made from Lego). You will want to
stay way after you have finished your meal.QC-6, Str. Sepcari 16, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0372 77 39 99/(+4) 0725
55 82 86, www.lacrimisisfinti.com. Open 12:30 - 02:00,
Mon 18:00 - 02:00. . PESW
TURKISH
DIVAN
From the Middle Eastern atmosphere and superb decor to
the great service, Divan is a lesson in creating a good restaurant. The well-priced food is good value Turkish/Middle
Eastern, and its very good indeed. They will even cook you
a whole lamb if you give them 24 hours notice. We opted
for the less Sultan-like beef and lamb kebabs. Very good
they were too. After your meal you can enjoy a smoke on
a hookah pipe: theres a huge range of flavours to choose
from.QC-6, Str. Franceza 46-48, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
021 312 30 34, www.thedivan.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00.
Also at (C-2) Calea Floreasca 111-113. . PBSW
CITY GRILL They call these places your dining room in

the city, and given the homely food and cheap prices they
might just be right. You can expect big portions of delicious, often rather adventurous Romanian food, cooked
and presented wonderfully and always served with a smile.
We like the carnati de plescoi, tasty smoked sausages made
with mutton and pork, while there are also no fewer than
five types of mici on the menu. Theres a good selection of
local beers to choose from too. As a reliable, good value
diner its hard to beat.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0729 62 62 62/(+4) 021 314 24 89, www.
citygrill.ro. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. Also
HANUL LUI MANUC (HANUL MANUC, MANUCS

INN)
Built in 1808 the enormous, three-level Hanul lui Manuc
(Manucs Inn) is one of Europes last remaining caravanserai. The interior courtyard is a spectacular sight and
essential for any visitor to Bucharest, not least the grand
staircase to your left as you enter from Strada Franceza. A
hostelry ever since it opened the Han has seldom looked
better, and is currently home to two restaurants: Manucs
Bistro (which serves Romanian food: good mici) and Levantin, a Lebanese eatery.QC-6, Str. Franceza, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 313 14 11, www.hanulluimanuc.ro.
Open 11:00 - 01:00. . TEBSW
57
Old Town
Old Town
LATE NIGHT FOOD
CALIF Besides serving decent standard kebabs, Calif
prides itself on also offering more than a few healthy
options, as well as a number of vegetarian kebabs and
dishes They also do what we will happily admit is a
very good lentil soup.QC-6, Str. Selari 19, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+40) 21 310 15 62, www.calif.ro. Open
24hrs.
CHICKEN STAFF KFC on the ground floor of Unirea
closes at 23:00, so instead get yourself here for your
late night/early morning chicken fix. They do superb
pui la rotiserie: tasty chicken roasted slowly over a spit.
QC-6, Str. Smardan 31, MPiata Unirii. Open 11:00
- 05:00.
DRISTOR KEBAP
Legendary chain of kebab shops, which began in Dristor but has now spread city wide, even in to Old Town.
QC-6, Str. Franceza 17, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021
315 55 40, www.dristorkebap.ro. Open 24 hrs. Also
at (C-7) B-dul Marasesti 42, Calea Vacaresti 391, Bdul Camil Ressu 1 and B-dul Timisoara 26.
OLD TOWN BARS

Bucharests bars generally fall in one of three groups: Cocktail & Quirky where you will mainly find good cocktails, a
laid-back atmosphere and the odd quirky feature, Upmarket (often hotel-based) bars for business folk and those
looking to impress their dates, and Wine Bars, where fine
grape is the order of the day.
COCKTAILS & QUIRKY

BICICLETA The name means Bicycle, and it will not take
you long to work out why: the place is by and large furnished and decorated with parts of old bicycles. On the
second floor of a Lipscani house the place boasts a good
long bar, plenty of stools (some of which incorporate old
bike seats) and a couple of leather sofas for those who
want something a bit more comfortable. Coffee by day
and cocktails by night is the order of things, and at the
weekend the place has a DJ and quite frankly rocks. Tour
de France? Tour de force.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 38, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 61 62 98. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 05:00. PW
INTERBELIC Having moved from its previous, hidden
location you could have forgiven this now legendary bar
for going mainstream: the good news it that it hasnt. Interbelic still has that speakeasy feel, like a well-kept secret
amongst people in the know. The new location is bigger,
serves food, has live music some evenings but is still first
choice to bring somebody you really want to impress with
your insiders knowledge of Bucharest.QC-6, Calea Victoriei 17, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 10 01 93, www.
interbelic.ro. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 05:00. PENW
LABORATORUL DE COCKTAILURI Our new favourite
Old Town location? Possibly. Its a cocktail bar (there is beer
too, of course, on tap, as well as hundreds of teas) where
everything has been thought out to the minutest detail.
The name means Cocktail Factory, so you get your Tom Collins or Mojito or whatever takes your fancy in a conical flask,
while the bar itself looks like an old pharmacy. Unusually,
they have even invested in decent bar stools. QC-6, Str.
Stavropoleos 8, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 52 80 40.
Open 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PNW
PAPIOTA Papiota is one of our favourite Bucharest bars.
Packed with odd chairs, tables and industrial bits and
bobs, it could easily have a hipster attitude: Thankfully it
doesnt. Add in the fact that it is a bit bigger than many
Old Town bars and that late on a Friday you stand a chance
of getting in the door and you have a top place. It also has
lots of big windows, the drinks are reasonably well priced
(this is Old Town) and the music is clubby without over- (or
under-) doing it.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 43, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 367 27 77, www.papiota.ro. Open 14:00 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:30. PBW
GYROS THESSALONIKI
In our opinion, this place serves the best chicken kebab in Bucharest. Its a regular late-night haunt of ours
and the queues speak for themselves. Alongside the
kebabs there are also salads, lamb dishes and sweets.
Cheap too: its a winner.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 2, MPiata Unirii. Open 24hrs.
MCDONALDS The good news is McDonalds has
finally brought breakfast to Romania, so that much
sought-after Sausage and Egg McMuffin can now be
yours at most central Bucharest McDonalds outlets.
But only until 10:00, alas. We do wish they would serve
them all day.QC-6, P-ta Unirii 1 (Unirea Shopping
Centre), MPiata Unirii, www.mcdonalds.ro. Open
07:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-01:00. McDrive at (A-4)
Str. Dr. Felix 8-10, (E-6) Sos. Mihai Bravu 307, Sos.
Pierre de Coubertine 3-5, (C-3) Str. Barbu Vacarescu
146-158 and Str. Brasov 23A all open 24hrs.
REHAB BAR
An Old Town bar has to be a bit different these days to grab
our attention: Rehab is just that. Its the kind of place you
see anywhere and everywhere, except in Bucharest. Until
now. With cushions on wooden steps making impromptu
seats and a sofa at the window, its just very different and
highly welcome. The drinks menu is done in the style of
a medical journal, and offers the usual mix of coffee, tea,
cocktails and smoothies. For added quirkiness you get the
bill in a sample bottle.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 19, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0726 12 25 52. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 14:00 - 04:00. PW
UPMARKET
ENTOURAGE CENTRUL VECHI
You will like this place. A nice long bar, proper tall bar
stools and even leather armchairs for those who want to
chill. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner from one of the
best bar menus in Bucharest: you will find something on
it you fancy. There must be 100 lamps hanging down
from the ceiling: all different. Startlingly brilliant place, refreshingly free of brewery branding too: always a bonus
these days.QC-6, Str. Eugen Carada 5-7, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 0722 93 79 72, mickybuga@gmail.com. Open
10:00 - 02:00. PSW
KLEIN BAR & BISTRO
Bar and bistro inside the Rembrandt hotel. Its a great place
to enjoy a drink with friends, and the location at the edge
of Bucharests newly-formed pedestrian zone makes it a
favourite for those looking for something just a little more
restful. Good bistro food too, and like the hotel itself, everything comes at very reasonable prices. Even acts as an
ad hoc Tourist Info Centre.QC-6, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro.
Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PGW
THE BAZAAR
Club Tropicana. Its not every day you see a palm tree or
two in a Bucharest bar, neither are there too many places
in Old Town as big as this: theres upstairs (complete with
comfy armchairs), downstairs, and on warmer evenings
59
Old Town
everyone spills out on to the street outside. On one of Old

Towns less-crowded streets this is a good alternative to
the madness elsewhere. Music is loungesque, supplied by
a DJ who knows his onions. Fun and sunshine.QC-6, Str.
Covaci 10, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0721 99 99 99, www.
thebazaar.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:30, Fri 10:00 - 04:30, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 04:30. PW
THE DRUNKEN LORDS Its alright this place: worth
looking out for. In a side street between Lipscani and Blanari, you will find a good, lively pub playing decent music
and offering a vibe a little more upmarket than most other
places in the Old Town (especially those in and around this
little alleyway). Hosts live music, sports and regular cultural events. The big windows open up in full during the
warmer months, and the place becomes like an open air
bar. Very cool.QC-6, Intr. Nicolae Selari 3-5, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0736 23 88 15, www.thedrunkenlords.ro.
Open 17:00 - 5:00. PEBSW
WINE BARS
NEW
ABELS WINE BAR
Genuinely gorgeous little wine bar one of the most character-filled streets in the Old Town. This place oozes charm
from every corner, its simple yet striking decor a refreshing
change from some of the more gaudy places in the area.
Stocks a wide selection of terrific wine from all over the
world, and most are available by the glass. Theres also tea,
very good coffee and long drinks. You will love it.QC-6,
Str. Nicolae Tonitza 10, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0371
03 36 43, www.abelswinebar.ro. Open 16:00 - 24:00.
Closed Mon. PXSW
CORKS COZY BAR Nice little wine bar tucked away on
an Old Town side street which quickly won itself a handy
following of admirers and regulars. A look at the wine list
will be enough to tell you why, offering as it does a vast
range of wines from across the world. Almost all of them
are available by the glass. The idea behind this place was
to create a wine bar where anyone - no matter how little
they know about wine - would feel welcome, comfortable
Old Town
and not be intimidated.QStr. Bacani 1, MPiata Unirii, tel.

(+4) 021 311 22 65, www.corks.ro. Open 13:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 13:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. PSW
THOMAS ANTIQUES BAR Above the Thomas Antiques
shop in Old Town is a cafe, tea house and bar where you
can enjoy a hot white chocolate (or something stronger)
while discussing the merits of the goods youve been admiring. Theres nothing quite like taking tea on an antique
chair you might end up taking home. Regular events too,
from string quartets to book launches and the like.QC-6,
Str. Covaci 19, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0752 44 08 18,
www.thomas-antiques.ro. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PW
OLD TOWN PUBS

BEER OCLOCK This little pub in Pasajul Villacrosse has
probably the biggest selection bottled beers in the city:
so it is aptly named. With brews from all over the world
you could drink a different beer every night for a month
and not try the same one twice. Whats more, besides the
beer they also have the appropriate glass in which to serve
it: great attention to details. Tiny, with only a few places
to sit, its worth reserving if you want to be sure of a seat.
Note: there is now a much bigger Beer OClock on Strada
Gabroveni further down in Old Town.QC-6, Pasajul Vilacrosse, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0767 23 33 35, www.
beeroclock.ro. Open 16:00 - 02:00. Also at (C-6) Str. Gabroveni 4. Open 17:00 - 02:00. PVSW
BIUTIFUL When you walk in, you will see where the
name comes from: it is indeed biutiful, an enormous industrial-chic space with a little added glamour (check out
the lights and the comfy sofas), creating a rather special
atmosphere rather like an upmarket, contemporary central London bar and grill. The food is more than decent salads, tapas and burgers - with the beef and horseradish
sandwich a confirmed winner. A must visit for either drinks
or food, preferably both. Reservations up to 19:00, after
that its first come first served.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 6-8,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0737 29 72 97, www.biutiful.ro.
Open 12:00 - 01:00, Mon 17:00 - 01:00. PSW
BORDELLO There is always something going on here,

every night of the week. From quiz nights and live music to
the burlesque every Friday night, this is a one-stop shop for
great nights out. Theres Heineken, Murphys and Paulaner on
tap and Sky Sports on four screens. The food is great, with
some rather special tapas, including the ribs which are just
about the best weve ever had in Bucharest. At the weekends, head downstairs to the Boudoir, and note that upstairs
is the new Mulanruj Dining Theatre, with live cabaret. You
cant miss this place by the way: just look for the tarts in
their underwear beckoning you in.QC-6, Str. Selari 9-11,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 85, www.bordellos.
ro. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 14:00 - 06:00,
Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PESW
NEW
EXPAT PUB Looking to become one of the citys default
after work and expat venues, this place has plenty going
for it, not least the hands-on owners and the great staff:
they clearly know what an actual pub should look and
feel like, which is nothing less than revolutionary for this
city. For instance, its got a great wooden bar and proper
stools so you can sit at the bar itself. (We are fed up with
Bucharest pubs telling us we cant sit at the bar). Hosting
regular events, from theme parties to karaoke, you will find
this place at the northern edge of the Old Town, at the end
of the little alley that runs from Lipscani to Blanari, opposite
the church.QC-6, Str. Blanari 21, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 0729 72 87 82, www.expatpub.ro. Open 19:00 07:00. Closed Mon.
EXPLORERS PUB A likeable Irish pub on Strada

Franceza whose biggest attraction - besides a more than
decent pint of Guinness - is the vast collection of maps
on the walls. We also like the fact that you can sit at the
bar on a proper bar stool, while the selection of food is
better - and more varied - than you would expect to find
at your average pub. Very nicely done indeed.QC-6, Str.
Franceza 9, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 19 01 31, www.
explorerspub.ro. Open 12:00 - 03:00. PW
LA 100 DE BERI The name (as you might have guessed)
means 100 Beers, and thats exactly what they have here:
beer, and lots of it, from all over the world. In fact, looking at the menu they have considerably more than 100
beers, and there is more besides: shorts and cocktails for
those who dont fancy a beer. Nice long, English-style bar.
QC-6, Str. Covaci 8, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0784 24 60
46. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PBW
OKTOBERFEST What makes this place so special is how
very ordinary it is. You will find the crowd more local than
foreign - never a bad thing - and ordinary out for a drink
and a good time locals at that, not the fitze crowd. The owners try to make something happen every night, whether its
football on the television or impromptu drinking competitions. The house Oktoberfest beer is a bargain at 4 lei a glass.
Upstairs is Oktoberfest 2, which has a small terrace.QC-6, Str.
Selari 9 -11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0724 33 32 33, www.
oktoberfest-pub.ro. Open 24hrs. Also at (C-6) Str. Franceza 3. Open 10:00 - 07:00. PNBW
61
Old Town
Old Town
lar quiz nights and live British stand-up comedy too. Top
notch.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 14, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0760 26 34 96/(+4) 0767 34 34 10, www.mojomusic.ro.
Open 13:00 - 05:00. PEBW
STUDENT & UNDERGROUND
OLD CITY Very good, always lively pub and club with
regular live music and other events on Lipscani with a huge
beer garden (in the right weather) out the back. Serves a
decent range of very good cocktails (a sweet-as-you-like
mojito went down very well with Mrs. In Your Pocket on our
last visit) and some pub grub that is far better than you
would assume. A big screen shows football and the like,
and it hosts loads of theme nights, from Insane Wednesdays to Champagne Saturdays.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 45,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0729 37 77 74, www.oldcitylipscani.ro. Open 10:00 - 05:00. PEBSW
RE:PUBLIC BRASSERIE
Re:Public is the best thing to happen to the Old Town in
many a day. A big, bold venue which both looks and feels
just right, its a party-central kind of place with a top selection of beer, live music downstairs in the Bierhalle and some
very good bistro food. There are top German sausages for
a start (including currywurst), alongside one of the tastiest
pork knuckles you will eat in this city. Oxtail stew and the
chocolate and Guinness mousse were the other stand-out
dishes we tried. Top draught beer selection too.QC-6, Str.
Selari 14, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 86, www.
therepublic.ro. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat
14:00 - 05:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. PESW
OLD TOWN BEERHALLS

BERARIA HANUL CU TEI With its big long bar, lively
atmosphere and regular crowd of beer drinkers out for
a good time and not to pose, it would be easy to nominate this place as the best pub in the Old Town. Add in
a brilliant range of sausages (weisswurst, bratwurst, Polish
bangers and local mici) and it starts to get very difficult
not to call this the best pub in Old Town. And when we tell
you there is live music from a resident band at the weekends you will know you need to go there immediately.
QC-6, Str. Lipscani 63-65, tel. (+4) 0727 57 13 71, www.
berariahanulcutei.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 05:00. PESW
CURTEA BERARILOR Once upon a time the whole
of the Curtea Sticlarilor was given over to artisans - especially glassmakers - from whence the name. Now only a
few survive and no less than four bars have opened here.
This one has given itself the rather cheeky name Curtea
Berarilor (Brewers Courtyard), though there is no brewing
done on the site. Instead make do with plenty of on-tap
pints, of which the default option is Timisoreana.QC-6, Str.
Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 313 75 32, www.
curteaberarilor.com. Open 13:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Wed
13:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PBSW
RE:PUBLIC BIERHALLE
Downstairs at Re:Public is the Bierhalle, which besides offering decent regular live music serves what is probably
the best selection of draught beer in the city. Theres an
IPA, a Brown Ale and even cider on tap. With big long
tables in classic beerhall style there are usually enough
seats to keep punters happy, but at the weekend you
will do well to reserve: it can get very busy.QC-6, Str.
therepublic.ro. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat
14:00 - 05:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. PESW
OLD TOWN CLUBS & DISCOS

As a general rule, Bucharests clubs can be divided into
three categories (as we have): the upmarket, Uber-Clubs,
where the trendy, fashionable and well-heeled go to party,
Student & Underground clubs where you will find a
mainly local crowd of young partygoers, and Live Music
clubs which host live bands most nights of the week. There
is a fair bit of crossover of course, but we think these three
categories describe the citys club scene reasonably well.
LIVE MUSIC
MOJO
Three level extravaganza of a venue. On the ground floor
is the pub, upstairs is the most popular karaoke venue in
the land, while downstairs in the cavernous cellar there is
live music, and then some. In a nutshell, this place sets the
standard for nights out in Old Town. The beer is a decent
price, the crowd a mix of ages and nationalities and the
manager is a top bloke who makes a point of being nice
to his customers. When ace local bands are not playing,
the resident Mojo band usually is. Also now puts on regubucharest.inyourpocket.com
BASTARDS Is that really what it is called? Yes: that is really what it is called. In a Lipscani basement, with the walls
stripped back to the red brick, this is a cocktail bar and club
where the mood is different every night. It could be karaoke, it could be rock night, it could be DJ Andrei Nicolescu
spinning his old school electro tunes. Regardless of what is
going on you will probably enjoy it.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 28,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0723 20 34 63, www.bastards.
ro. Open 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PENB
CLUB A Selling the cheapest beer in the Old Town (we
think), this place is a legend. If you want a local, unpretentious, up-for-a-laugh studenty crowd getting down
to classic songs that you wont have heard for ages, this
is the one place in town you can be guaranteed to find
it, every night of the week. Live music on most weekend
nights, as well as all sorts of events during the week, from
theme nights to theatre.QC-6, Str. Blnari 14, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 316 16 67, www.cluba.ro. Open 10:30
- 05:00, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat 16:00 - 06:00, Sun 16:00 04:00. PEBW
FIRE CLUB A much-changed venue which over the past
year or so has become a bigger, brighter and less smokey
venue than ever before. Still plays mainly rock for a crowd
of the young and not-so-young, and to be honest it is as
good as ever. We have always liked the place and if you
want to go local it is one of your better options in the Old
Town. There is also now Fire Pub out the back (although the
entrance is from Strada Covaci) with a huge and very nice
covered terrace/atrium.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 12, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0732 16 66 04, www.fire.ro. Open 10:00 05:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. PBSW
UPMARKET CLUBS
FINNISH COCKTAIL & CLUB A little more chic and upmarket than most other places in the Old Town, Finnish is
a cocktail bar and club which brings a little contemporary
Scandinavian design to the Romanian capital. The house
drink is of course Finlandia vodka, available in more varieties than you ever thought possible, but there is more to
this place than vodka: cocktails, wine, champagne and
beer. They even have Guinness on draught. The music usually provided by a DJ - is as contemporary and as good
as the design.QC-6, Str. Selari 28, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0753 57 82 09, www.finnish.ro. Open 13:30 - 05:00.
PBW
FREDDO The biggest, boldest place on Strada Smardan.
Smart too: when it started raining we were about to run
for cover only for the roof to be extended, keeping us all
dry. Impressive. Now get there and enjoy sound cocktails,

pizza and decent salads: and note you can enjoy it all at
proper, big wooden tables. You might want to reserve
at the weekends: this place is damn popular.QC-6, Str.
Smardan 24, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0722 37 33 36,
www.freddo.ro. Open 12:00 - 05:00. PNBSW
LA MUSE
Last time we popped in we met up with almost everyone
we know in Bucharest. Thats the kind of place this is: on
the surface it looks posh and flash and out-of-your-league
(the lady at the entrance clutches a clipboard as though
her life depends on it) but it is in fact a down-to-earth,
come-as-you-are venue playing dance floor hits from
across the decades to a crowd a bit older than elsewhere,
which can afford the prices of the drinks. We love it.QC-6,
Str Lipscani 53, MPiata Unirii/Universitate, tel. (+4)
0734 00 02 36, www.lamuse.ro. Open 09:00 - 03:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. PBW
OLD TOWN SIGHTS

BANCA NATIONALA A ROMANIEI
The National Bank (BNR) stands on the site of one of the
most famous buildings in Romania: the Hanul Serban
Voda, which from 1678 until 1883 was the home of various
things, from a pub, to an inn to a dormitory for a nearby
girls school. After two fires gutted the building however,
the land was levelled and in 1883 work began on the BNR,
completed to the designs of French architects Cassien
63
Old Town
Old Town
STAVROPOLEOS CHURCH (BISERICA STAVROPOLEOS) The church was built in 1724 at the insistence of a Greek monk, Ioanikie Stratonikeas. It is characterized by its beautiful stone and wood carvings, of which
the finest are on the main doors. The courtyard outside has
a curious collection of tombstones dating from the 18th
century, and you might often see skilled craftsmen working on restoring them.QC-6, Str. Stavropoleos 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+40) 21 313 47 47, www.stavropoleos.ro.
Bernard and Albert Galleron in 1885. The building boasts a

facade with Corinthian columns, and an enormous central
banking hall.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 25, MUniversitate.
NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM (MUZEUL NATIONAL DE ISTORIE)
The beautiful, monumental and simply superb Neo-Classical building that houses Romanias National History Museum was constructed from 1894-1900 to the designs of
local architect Alexandru Svulescu. It originally served as
the headquarters of Pota Roman, the Romanian postal
service. When the post office moved away in 1970, the
History Museum moved in. The museums exhibitions are
spread over 60 display rooms, although many are currently
closed for renovation. The museums two most important
collections, however, are very much open: the Lapidarium
and the Romanian Treasury. The Lapidarium includes statues brought from a Bronze Age necropolis close to present
day Cernavoda and a full-scale replica of Trajans Column.
The Romanian Treasury includes jewellery from the time of
the Geto-Dacians, as well as the current Romanian Crown

Jewels, including the kings crown and an amazing selection of emeralds made for Queen Mary. The bizarre statue
on the museums steps allegedly represents the emperor
Trajan holding a wolf.QC-5, Calea Victoriei 12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 82 07, www.mnir.ro. Open 10:0018:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 25 lei, pensioners 15
lei, students and children 7 lei.
OLD COURT PALACE & CHURCH (PALATUL I BISERICA CURTEA VECHE)
The Old Court, first built on this site in the second part
of the 15th-century by Vlad epe, was considerably extended during the 16th century, by Mircea Ciobanul, and
again a century later, this time at the hand of Constantin
Brancoveanu. The palace was by and large destroyed by
a series of fires in the 19th century however, and subsequently neglected. Much of what remains today was uncovered during archaeological digs that took place from
1967-72, when the palace ruins were first opened as a
museum. There are fragments of the original 15th century
walls, as well as remnants of the voievodal palace throne
room, in which most of the relics found on the site are exhibited. Next door to the palace is the Old Court Church
(pictured, left) dating from 1545. It was enlarged in 1715,
during the reign of tefan Cantacuzino, and the frescoes
inside, painted by maestros Constantin Lecca and Miu
Papa, were added in 1847.QC-6, Str. Franceza, MPiata
Unirii. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
PASAJUL MACCA-VILACROSSE
Today packed with cafes - most of which offer hookah
pipes and exotic tobaccos - Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse
was built in 1891 as a conduit between Calea Victoriei then the busiest street in the city - and the National Bank.
It is named for a Catalan architect, Xavier Villacrosse, who
from 1840-50 was the chief architect of Bucharest, and Mihalache Macca, son-in-law of the buildings architect, Felix
Xenopol. It is covered with an arcade yellow glass roof to
allow natural light, also intended to encourage commerce
at street level. In other words, this was Bucharests first
shopping mall.QC-6, Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse; Calea
Victoriei, MUniversitate.
ST. DUMITRU CHURCH (BISERICA SF. DUMITRU

DE JURAMANT) Currently being fully renovated (and as
such covered in scaffolding) the St. Dumitru Church (Biserica
Sf. Dumitru) dates back to the 15th century. It was destroyed
in the Great Fire of 1847 and the current building dates from
1852 but it has undergone numerous renovations due to
damage from earthquakes. St. Dumitru is the patron saint of
Bucharest.QC-6, Str. Postei 2, MPiata Unirii.
ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH (BISERICA SFANTUL
NICOLAE - BLANARI) The church was built in the 1880s
as a private chapel for Romanias first royal couple: Note that
the king and queen still have special seats on the left and
right of the churchs 18th century icon kept for them should
they ever return.QC-6, Str. Blanari 16, MUniversitate.
ST. NICHOLAS STUDENTS CHURCH (SFNTUL
NICOLAE BISERICA STUDENILOR) Built in 190509 with a 600,000 gold rouble donation from Tsar Alexander II, this Russian orthodox church is topped with
seven typically Russian onion domes and crowned with
an orthodox cross. The wooden, gold-gilded iconostasis
(catapeteasm) is allegedly a copy of the altar in Arhangelsk Cathedral, in Moscows Kremlin.QC-5, Str. I. Ghica
9, MUniversitate.
STRADA LIPSCANI & HANUL CU TEI
Strada Lipscani gets its name from the large number of
traders who, in the 18th century, sold wares here brought
from Leipzig, which at the time was one of the largest
trading posts in Europe. As Str. Lipscani was the main commercial street in the Old Town, it over time lent its name
to the whole area. Ironically, its name and history aside,
modern Str. Lipscani has little to recommend it, although
it does have some exceptional bars, pubs and clubs, and a
theatre. About two thirds of the way along Str. Lipscani is
the Hanul cu Tei, a wonderful courtyard (once part of a
large inn) which today houses art galleries, antique shops,
second-hand book shops, gift shops, studios and portrait
artists, as well as a lively terrace and pub/restaurant, and
an excellent souvenir shop.QC-6, Str. Lipscani, MUniversitate.
SUTU PALACE / MUSEUM OF BUCHAREST
Much overlooked museum, despite its location in the very
centre of the city. The highlight is probably the selection
of maps of Bucharest through the ages, while there is also
an original log from the Podul Mogosoaia: the forerunner
Strada Stavropoleos
of Calea Victoriei, in the days when the street was paved

with logs. The exhibition is well captioned in Romanian
and English, and while small an enjoyable hour can be
spent here. You will leave feeling as though you want
more, however. The museum is housed in the elegant,
Neo-Gothic uu Palace, built from 1833-4.QC-5, B-dul
I.C. Bratianu 2, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 68
58, www.muzeulbucurestiului.ro. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6 lei, 3 lei children, students and pensioners. Children under seven free.
UNIVERSITATE The twin semi-circular buildings in Piata
Universitatii which are in many ways the entrance to the
Old Town were built in 1906 to serve as the headquarters of
Romanias largest insurance company. In front of them are
four statues, of Gheorghe Lazar (founder, in 1818, of the
first Romanian school in Bucharest), Ion Heliade Radulescu (a founding member of the Romanian Academy), Mihai Voievod Viteazul (the first person to unite the three
Romanian provinces, in 1600) and Spiru Haret (a mathematician, astronomer and politician who as education
minister in the 1880s and 1890s created the foundations of
the modern Romanian education system). Opposite is the
university building itself, constructed over a twelve year
period from 1857 to 1869 at the behest of Alexandru Ioan
Cuza, at the time Prince of Romania. The central corp of the
building was entirely rebuilt in the late 1940s after it was
destroyed during heavy allied bombing in 1944. Though
rebuilt as an exact replica of the original, many sculptures
and basreliefs by Carol Storck were deemed irreplaceable
and lost forever.QC-5, Piata Universitatii, MUniversitate.
65
Shopping
Shopping
Bucharests main shopping areas are the shopping centres
and malls listed below, as well as B-dul Magheru and increasingly - Calea Victoriei.
BOOKSHOPS
ANTHONY FROST ENGLISH BOOKSHOP
Stocks a good range of fiction and non-fiction, plenty of
childrens books, and a decent selection of books about
Romania and Bucharest.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 45, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 311 51 38, www.anthonyfrost.ro.
Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
PROMENADA MALL Opened in October 2013, this is currently Bucharests most talked-about mall. Featuring the usual
mix of top stores, restaurants there is also a rooftop recreation
area (pictured right), but no cinema.QCalea Floreasca 246B,
MAurel Vlaicu, www.promenada.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
UNIREA SHOPPING CENTRE A good shopping centre in the heart of the city. There are fashion stores on the
first and second floors with electronics and kids shops on
floors three and four. An excellent Mega Image supermarket can be found in the basement.QC-6, Piata Unirii 1,
MPiata Unirii, www.unireashop.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
A beauty salon and library, housed in one of the most

glorious villas in the city. It sounds as though it shouldnt
really work, but it does, thanks in the main to terrific
design and a great community of people and friends
that has quickly grown up around the place. Its popular
for book launches and the like. QB-3, Str. Duiliu Zamfirescu 10, tel. (+4) 021 212 51 71/(+4) 0749 77 77 77,
www.labibliotheque.ro. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 10:00
- 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. PW
PAIDEIA Wonderful local gifts, including books, posters,

greetings cards, objets dart and even Romanian delicacies,
from refined palinca to gourmet salts and honey.QB-dul
Nicolae Balcescu 2-4 (Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, www.cadouriculturale.ro. Open 10:00 - 16:00.
Also at (C-6) Unirea Shopping Centre (Ground Floor).
SHOPPING CENTRES
BUCURESTI MALL Recently extended in a major redevelopment, this place - when opened in 1999 - was the first
mall in the city. Loads of shops, including Marks & Spencer
and H&M.QE-7, Calea Vitan 55-59, www.bucurestimall.
com.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
A pair of handmade shoes from Romanias top shoe designer, Mihaela Glavan, may not be the cheapest of
souvenirs, but they will certainly be unique. All of Glavans designs can be customised: visit her showroom at
(A-4) Str. Sabinelor 104, tel. (+40) 730 09 73 23.
MUZEUL TARANULUI ROMAN (PEASANT MUSEUM) The shop at the Peasant Museum has an outstanding
selection of souvenirs and gifts. Of particular note are the
traditional peasant clothes, as well as the icons and naive
art.QB-3, os. Kiseleff 3, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021
317 96 61. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
SALA DALLES Bookshop with a large exhibition space

out back that often hosts book and gift fairs. Always has a
decent selection of books in English.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae
Balcescu 18, MUniversitate. Open 10:00 - 21:00.
BANEASA SHOPPING CITY The largest mall in Bucharest. With more than 220 shops it makes everywhere else
look quite small. Just past the old Baneasa airport you can
get here on buses 131 or 301 from Piata Romana.Qos.
Bucureti-Ploieti 42D, www.baneasashoppingcity.ro.
Open 10:00 - 22:00, Restaurants Open 10:00 -23:00.
LA BIBLIOTEQUE
SOUVENIRS
HUMANITAS KRETZULESCU
Large bookshop selling a wide range of both Romanian
and foreign language books.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 45,
MUniversitate, www.libhumanitas.ro. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
AFI PALACE COTROCENI One of Bucharests biggest

malls, and probably its best, with loads of top brand names
and the added attraction of an IMAX cinema, a large ice
skating rink (open year round) and even an indoor roller
coaster and childrens funfair.QB-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul
Timisoara, MPolitehnica, www.aficotroceni.ro. Open
10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:30.
MIHAELA GLAVAN
SECOND CHANCE A wide range of good Romanian

souvenirs handmade by people from disadvantaged
backgrounds.QSos.Bucuresti-Ploiesti 42D (Baneasa
Shopping City), tel. (+4) 0726 17 36 43, www.romaniahandmade.ro. Open 10:00 - 22.00.
MARKETS
Bucharest is home to a number of good markets, most of
which stock a wide range of produce, at prices often (but
not always) cheaper than the supermarkets. In season fruit
and vegetables tend to be local, but do check what you are
buying if you really want to make sure you are getting local produce. There are very good produce markets at Piata
Norilor (a short walk from Tineretului metro station) and
Obor (E-4). Beyond the produce markets there are a couple
of bazaar-type places worth visiting, not least Complex
Comercial Rahova, a place that stocks cheap everything.
Take tram No. 32 from Piata Unirii to (almost) the end of the
line to find it. Then there is Targul Vitan-Barzesti, which
every Sunday morning becomes Bucharests biggest and
busiest flea market. Its mayhem. More or less everything
you can imagine can be found here, all prices negotiable.
Bus No. 123 from Piata Unirii will get you there. Be brave.
LOCAL DESIGNERS
For clothes by local designers, check out the huge Romanian Designers Gallery on the second floor of the
Cocor Department Store, at (C-6) B-dul Ion Bratianu
29-33. You will find a wide range of designs by many of
Romanias best designers. Another option is Band of
Creators at (C-5) Str. Benjamin Franklin 14 (www.bandofcreators.com).
SOUVENIR SHOP Everything you would want from a

decent souvenir shop - with both Romania and Bucharest branded gifts available - and more besides. We came
across the best Dracula T-Shirts weve seen so far here,
complete with the slogan: Send more tourists, the last
ones tasted great.QC-5, Str. Smardan 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 32 25 40, www.souvenir-shop.com.
ro. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
WINE
BVS WINE BAR & SHOP Super little place on the edge of
the Old Town run by the same people as the Van Gogh Cafe.
Its a wine bar and shop where you can find a fine selection
of self-imported wines, tasting them all before you buy. You
can also just pop in for a glass or two, although in our experience once weve sat down at this charming place we tend
not to get up again until closing time.QC-6, Str. Covaci 19,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 31 00 580, www.bvswines.ro.
Open 14:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 01:30.
ETHIC WINE Wonderful wine shop, run by a friendly
Englishman and his lovely wife, both of whom really know
their stuff. There is a wide range of local grape, as well as
a good selection of wines from Cricova in the Republic of
Moldova.QC-3, Str. Banu Antonache 55, tel. (+4) 0722
63 37 89, www.ethicwine.ro. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Mon
15:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
THE WINERY OUTLET Bucharest outlet of the excellent Halewood Winery. You will find some of the best wines
produced in Romania sold here.QSos. Mihai Bravu 132,
tel. (+4) 021 252 10 32, www.halewood.com.ro. Open
09:30 - 21:30, Sun 09:30 - 14:30.
VINEXPERT There is always something worth spending
your money on here, whether its the latest vintage from
Cricova, or more prosaic delights such as Unicum (Vinexpert being one of the few places in Romania where we
have found said liqueur). Will deliver.QD-6, B-dul Octavian Goga 24, tel. (+4) 021 327 49 74, www.evinoteca.
ro. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Also at (C-6) Unirea
Shopping Center (P-a Unirii 1).
BUCHAREST MONOPOLY
We have long said that this should be the first thing on any
list of must-have Romanian souvenirs. The classic board
game given a local twist. The streets of London have been
replaced with the streets of Bucharest. The cheapest property on the board is Rahova, while the most expensive is
Bulevardul Primaverii. Found in most good toy shops
and hypermarkets, it sells for around 110 lei.
LOCAL ART
Look out for craft fairs being held at the citys better museums in order to find some gorgeous naive art. The Peasant Museum hosts regular such fairs, although not every
weekend: you will simply have to get lucky. Suvenir de
Bucuresti, a small art gallery specialising in classic scenes
of Bucharest and Romania always has a great selection
of paintings for sale: find it on (C-5) Strada Academiei.
For those with more contemporary tastes, head for the
Zorzini Gallery on (C-5) Strada Thomas Masaryk. The gallery represents three of Romanias leading contemporary
artists: Nicolae Comanescu, Andrei Gamart and Oana
Lohan. Galateca on (C-5) Strada C.A. Rosetti is a gallery
of applied art, housed in the rather splendid University
Library on Piata Revolutiei. Its NeoGalateca shop sells
fashion, accessories and designer objects from a number of top local designers.
67
Hotels
Hotels
With the exception of the five-star hotels listed in the

Cream of the Crop category, the price bands used refer to
the rack rate for a double room.
CREAM OF THE CROP

ATHENEE PALACE HILTON
Simply put, this has been one of Bucharests finest hotels
for 100 years. It is a living piece of the citys history - it dates
from 1914 and celebrates its centenary this year - and yet
behind its historic facade you will find a most modern
place to stay. There is a wide range of rooms to choose
from: the best are those with views over Piata Revolutiei.
Indoor pool and health club, terrific onsite dining and of
course this is the home of the English Bar: probably Bucharests most famous bar.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel. (+4)
021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.com. 272 rooms.
POTHR6UFLGKDCW
CROWNE PLAZA BUCHAREST
Contemporary and welcoming, the Crowne Plaza Bucharest offers all the reassuring global standards you would
expect of the brand, from first class accommodation to
world class facilities. With a renowned reputation for
individual and friendly service, the hotel can also offer
the greenest setting in the capital, surrounded as it is by
beautifully maintained grounds. Can also boast a large
swimming pool, big, comfortable rooms (and bathrooms
to match) and some outstanding drinking and dining
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted
O Casino
H Conference facilities
T Child-friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre
L Guarded parking
6 Pet-friendly
K Restaurant
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
W Wifi
options.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1, tel. (+4) 021 224 00

34, www.crowneplaza.com/bucharest. 164 rooms.
PTHRUFGKDCW
INTERCONTINENTALStill the tallest hotel in Bucharest

(complete with a swimming pool and - during the summer, sun terrace - on the top floor) the InterContinental
was the first major five star hotel to open in Romania, at
the beginning of the 1970s. Today it is one of many but remains something of a first choice for journalists and business people, many of whom have been loyal guests for
decades. The rooms here all boast big balconies with great
views of the city, there is first class dining in the building,
and the management is commendably hands-on. The
new Club Lounge on the 21st floor is the best in the city, offering great views of Bucharest, cocktails, meeting rooms,
internet, a library and an all round exclusive atmosphere.
Non-guests can use the Club Lounge for 35 per day.QC5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 2-4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
021 310 20 20, www.intercontinental.com/bucharest.
257 rooms. POTHR6FLGKDCW
EPOQUE Now heres a hotel we have no problem in

recommending. Opened during the Autumn of 2010 the
Epoque has a number of things going for it, not least its
location on the edge of Cismigiu Park: close enough to the
heart of the city yet at the same time offering the impression of a retreat. Rooms are large and tastefully furnished,
there are plenty of extras (not least a plunge pool), breakfast is good and for what you get, the prices are a steal.
QB-5, Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C, tel. (+4) 021 312 32 32,
www.hotelepoque.ro. 44 rooms. PTHRU
FLGKDCW
JW MARRIOTT BUCHAREST GRAND HOTEL

To the south of Casa Poporului the JW Marriott occupies
something of a palatial building that at first glance probably makes it the most immediately impressive of Bucharests big five star hotels. The scale of the place, and
its cavernous interiors, betray the fact that it was built as
part of the same grand plan as the Casa Poporului itself.
Yet the rooms are homely and well-furnished, providing
a welcome contrast to the building. Plenty of good dining
options, and home to the biggest swimming pool in the
city (we think).QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90, tel. (+4)
021 403 00 00, www.jwmarriottbucharest.com. 401
rooms. POTHR6UFLGKDCW
GRAND HOTEL CONTINENTAL

Making the very best of a wonderful building (which dates
from 1886) on chic Calea Victoriei, todays Grand Hotel
Continental is the result of more than two years of loving
renovation and restoration. Theres marble at every turn,
though do not think that modern touches are missing, for
they are not. The audio-visual systems in the rooms for example are state of the art. For the great location and for
a change from the big chains, its well worth trying out.
QC-5, Calea Victoriei 56, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372
01 03 00, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. 59 rooms.
PTHR6UFLGKDW
NOVOTEL BUCHAREST CITY CENTRE

Few locations are better than this, right on fashionable
Calea Victoriei. The entrance is impressive: a replica of the
old neoclassical National Theatre which stood on this exact site until the British bombed it to next week during
the Second World War. Shiny and new the main part of
the hotel is wonderful: rooms are big, with bathrooms
particularly impressive. Excellent, lively lobby bar and a
big indoor swimming pool are other added benefits of
staying here.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 37B, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 308 85 00, www.novotel.com. 258 rooms.
POTHR6UFLGKDCW
PREMIER PALACE South-west of the city centre in

the suburb of Ghencea (opposite Steaua Bucharests stadium) is the Premier Palace, a luxurious place which offers what is without doubt the best spa in the city (and
entrance to which is free for hotel guests). The rest of the
hotel is fabulous too, with the big rooms all packed with
added extras, right down to the Salvatore Ferragamo
cosmetics in the bathroom. Staff are superb and happy
to arrange taxis to and from town.QB-dul Ghencea 134,
tel. (+4) 031 407 60 00, www.premierpalace.ro. 82
rooms. PTHFLGKDCW
PULLMAN BUCHAREST WORLD TRADE CENTER
The spacious, luxurious rooms are the main attraction at
this high rise in the north of the city, where the bathrooms
boast perhaps the deepest bathtubs in the city. There are
separate showers, and all in all we think that the square-meterage-per-euro ratio is higher here than anywhere else in
Bucharest. A good on-site steak house keeps you well fed,
and though there is no pool there is a good fitness centre
with sauna and massage available.QA-1, P-ta Montreal
10, tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com.
203 rooms. PTHR6UFLGKDW
RADISSON BLU A gleaming temple of steel and glass
amongst the more classical buildings of Calea Victoriei,
the Radisson excels in playing the role of futuristic Bucharest hotel of choice. As you walk in the glass bar strikes
you as daring and modern, and the rooms themselves are
HOWARD JOHNSON GRAND PLAZA BUCHAREST HOTEL

This is a high-rise hotel in the busy centre of Bucharest,
where the sleek, modern exterior is matched by the interiors, all of which carry the signatures of top-name
designers. The breakfast is perhaps the best in the city,
coming as it does with champagne, and the dining opportunities in general are excellent: there is a wonderful
Japanese restaurant, Benihana, on site. To really get the
best out of this place though, ask for a room on one of the
upper floors, for the views over the city.QB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 00,
www.hojoplaza.ro. 285 rooms. POTHR6U
FLGKDW
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Hotels
Hotels
swimming pool (albeit a rather small one). In a city in which

even some of the five star hotels lack pools, the Majestics
makes it well worth that little bit extra cash.QB-4, Calea
Victoriei 38-40, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 27 72,
www.ramadamajestic.ro. 111 rooms. PTHRU
FLGKDCW
equally avant garde in design. Bathrooms offer both tubs

and showers, and there is both an indoor and outdoor
pool, so you can swim whatever the weather. Excellent
restaurants, especially the sublime Prime Steaks and Seafood.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00,
www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bucharest. 718 rooms.
PHRUFLGKDCW
OVER 150
ALEXANDER Big, plush hotel close to Bucharests highrise business district of Pipera. Rooms are all well-sized and
impeccably furnished and come with a host of extras. The
bathrooms are particularly luxurious. The hotel has a good
little spa centre with sauna, Turkish bath and jacuzzi. Great
breakfast - which is amongst the citys best - included
in the price of your room.QSos. Pipera-Tunari 1/VI, tel.
(+4) 021 569 51 10, www.alexanderhotel.ro. 73 rooms.
PHRFLKDW
CISMIGIU One of the most famous hotels in Bucharest
(there is even a song about the place: Hotel Cismigiu, by
Vama Veche) reopens its doors after being closed for almost two decades. In a fantastic location right in the heart
of the city, millions have been spent making the hotel
look better than at any time in its century-old history.
The contemporary rooms - all of which are in fact suites
- are enormous, many even boasting kitchens. Theres a
fitness centre, wifi throughout, a great breakfast is included and there is even onsite parking. Worth every penny.
QC-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate, tel.

(+4) 031 403 05 00, www.hotelcismigiu.ro. 60 rooms.
PTHRUFLGKW
NH BUCHAREST Not located in the most attractive
area of the city, the NH makes up for that by offering a
modern, contemporary hotel experience for a fair amount
of money: you can usually stay here for far less than the
rack rates. Expect well sized rooms with plenty of extras
and a very good on site restaurant. Good place to stay
with children and babies: the staff make a point of making them feel welcome.QD-6, B-dul Mircea Voda 21, tel.
(+4) 021 300 05 45, www.nh-hotels.com. 76 rooms.
PTHRUFLGKW
RAMADA BUCHAREST PARC
The Hotel Parc has been around a while, but only came
under the Ramada banner a short while ago. A high-rise
in a leafy suburb (close to Romexpo and Herastrau Park
- hence the name) it boasts nice rooms which - while not
huge - are comfortable and boast brightly coloured dcor
and gorgeous, soft cotton sheets on the beds. Great buffet
breakfast included in the price.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5,
tel. (+4) 021 549 20 00, www.ramadabucharestparc.ro.
267 rooms. PHRGKW
RAMADA MAJESTIC Standing (dare we say it) majestically on Calea Victoriei, the Majestic has long been one of
Bucharests best hotels. It offers very big rooms with glorious bathrooms, a great breakfast and - a real bonus - a
RAMADA PLAZA BUCHAREST Slightly more upmarket than its sister establishment across the road, what
you get here is a slightly bigger room than at the Parc,
and much bigger bathrooms. The design of the place is
nicely futuristic, and we loved the beds which we think
are amongst the best in Bucharest. Free Wifi is a bonus,
there is a good lobby bar and a decent on site bistro. Good
value for the money.QB-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel. (+4) 021
549 30 00, www.ramadaplazabucharest.ro. 298 rooms.
PHRUFGKW
unobtrusive colours and smart lines. Bathrooms are good,

and the range of free cosmetics is impressive. Top onsite
restaurant too, the 1880.QB-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 54, tel. (+4) 0372 08 00 80, www.capitalplaza.ro. 95
rooms. PTHRUFLGKW
DUKE Now this place is central. A proverbial stones throw
from Piata Romana, this modern hotel is squeezed in to
a tight spot between two classic Bucharest buildings of
the past. Rooms are well-sized, bathrooms have tubs and
showers, and theres free and fast Wifi throughout. Beds
get high marks for their excellent mattresses.QC-4, Bdul Dacia 33, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 317 41 86,
www.hotelduke.ro. 37 rooms. PRGKW
100-150
ANGELO AIRPORTHOTEL BUCHAREST
The hotel closest to Bucharests Otopeni airport. The Angelo
is operated by Vienna International Hotels & Resorts, and its
bright exterior is matched by the interior: bold colours
abound in all the rooms and the common areas. There is
high speed Wifi throughout, and a fitness centre complete
with sauna. Transport to and from the airport is complimentary. Great buffet breakfast. QCalea Bucurestilor 283,
tel. (+4) 021 203 65 00, www.angelo-bucharest.com.
177 rooms. PTHR6UFLGKDW
BERTHELOT Smart, modern and dead central. What
more could you want? For your money you are getting
a good deal here: the rooms are big and well furnished
with plenty of mod cons, such as LCD televisions, while
the bathrobes in the sumptuous bathrooms are suitably
fluffy and the cosmetics a cut above the norm.QB-5,
Str. General Berthelot 9, tel. (+4) 031 425 58 60, www.
hotelberthelot.ro. 43 rooms. PTHRLGKW
CAPITAL PLAZA Smart place at the northern edge of
the city centre, about five minutes walk from Piata Victoriei.
The rooms are big and furnished in a modern style, with
71
Hotels
Hotels
OLD TOWN HOTELS
EUROPA ROYALE BUCHAREST The Europa Royale
is a gorgeous place that complements instead of overpowering its surroundings. Literally a stones throw from
where Bucharest began, at the Curtea Veche, facing Piata
Unirii, it is as ideally located as you ever hope for. Inside
the rooms are big, classy and we found the staff exemplary. QC-6, Str. Franceza 60, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
021 319 17 98, www.europaroyale.com. 92 rooms.
PTH6UGKW
REMBRANDT The Rembrandt is what happens when
people with taste renovate buildings in Old Town Bucharest (the gorgeous cafe next door belongs unsurprisingly to the same people). Luxurious without overdoing it, expect to find original 1920s wooden floors and
period furnishings complimented by up-to-the-minute
technology.QC-5, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, fax (+4) 021 313 93 16, www.
rembrandt.ro. 16 rooms. PTRUGKW
RESIDENCE ARC DE TRIOMPHE

Fantastic hotel in a good area of the capital, offering large,
excellent value rooms and super services. There are little
touches of class all over the hotel that suggest they really
care. The wrought iron beds, for example, are fabulous, as
is the newly added spa, complete with sauna and jacuzzi.
The restaurant is also worth a visit, serving good international cuisine.QA-3, Str. Clucerului 19, tel. (+4) 021 223
19 78/(+4) 0372 15 07 00, www.residencehotels.com.
ro. 35 rooms. PTHRLGKDW
RESIDENCE DOMENII PLAZA A wonderful villa,
this place offers real luxury and a quiet, understated atmosphere. Its a classy place for classy people, basically.
All the rooms, studios and apartments are bright, big
and have stunning bathrooms. It also has a fantastic spa,
complete with sauna, steam bath and enormous jacuzzi,
perfect for tired business types in need of evening relaxation. The food in the restaurant is outstanding.QA-2, Str.
Al. Constantinescu 33, tel. (+4) 021 224 50 44, www.
residencehotels.com.ro. 33 rooms. PTHRL
GKDW
UNDER 100
BOUTIQUE HOTEL MONACO
A nice place on a quiet(ish) street yet still close enough
to the city centre to be within walking distance. There is
an elegance to the decoration that suggests theyve taken
real time and effort over things, and the beds are large,
TANIA-FRANKFURT This is a cracking little place in the

very heart of Old Town, just a shake or two away from the
citys best nightlife. Rooms are good value, bright and airy,
and are furnished in a modern, bright and airy style. The
best is the split level sky room, with its sky light and raised
sleeping area. Theres free internet for guests.QC-6, Str.
taniahotel.ro. 13 rooms. PRGKW
Z EXECUTIVE BOUTIQUE HOTEL
In a building on a street hidden a little behind the
Sutu Palace this is a great place from which to enjoy
the delights of Old Town and indeed the whole of central Bucharest. Rooms are big and modern, tastefully
furnished and come with comfortable beds and good
bathrooms. The breakfast room is great, and theres
an on site bistro with great views of the busy streets
outside.QC-5, Str. Ion Nistor 4, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 031 140 02 00, www.zhotels.ro. 21 rooms.
PTHR6ULGKW
comfortable and covered with crisp yet soft sheets. Wifi,
flatscreen TVs, good bathrooms. The kind of place you feel
should cost a lot more than it does: seriously good value
for money.QC-5, Str. J. L. Calderon 74, tel. (+4) 021 310
56 68, www.hotelmonaco.ro. 8 rooms. PTLW
CARO
The Caro is in fact three hotels in one: the Caro Golf, a fourstar establishment offering very swish rooms, the Caro
Parc: one of the best three-stars in the city, and the outstanding value budget two-star Caro Horoscop. All three
offer bright rooms with excellent bathrooms, and there
is terrific buffet breakfast in the Belvedere restaurant. The
surroundings are leafy and yet the citys business district
is just across the street. There is free wifi at the Caro Golf.
QC-1, B-dul Barbu Vcrescu 164A, MAurel Vlaicu,
tel. (+4) 021 208 61 00, www.carohotel.ro. 188 rooms.
PTH6UFLKDCW
CHARTER For what you pay at this hotel, you get a large
amount of room indeed. Really: these must be the biggest hotel rooms in Bucharest, and they cost about 1 per
square metre. Close to the airport (on the other side of
the road to McDonalds) this place is perfect if you have an
early flight, though it is only fair to say that it is a good 30
minutes or so to the city centre. Still, with rooms and services to match anywhere, and at very low prices, we doubt
anyone will be complaining.QDrumul Odaii 1D, Otopeni,
tel. (+4) 021 352 87 19, www.hotelcharter.ro. 21 rooms.
PTRLGW
The hotel is a decent place offering big-ish rooms, with

commendably big bathrooms. Happy, multi-lingual
staff are a bonus not always found in Bucharests hotels. Good cafes (there are two) to choose from: one
has a covered terrace.QD-7, Str. Nerva Traian 3A, tel.
(+4) 021 200 62 70, www.doubletree.com. 87 rooms.
PTHRUFLGKDW
GOLDEN TULIP TIMES
This, people, is a very good hotel where you get a hell of a lot
of room for a relatively small amount of money. All come furnished well with terrific beds, big desks and comfy armchairs.
Bathrooms are equally impressive and modern. There is Wifi
throughout and a host of extras: not least of which is the fantastic breakfast. The on site restaurant is one of the best hotel-
DAN Serving a terrific buffet breakfast (until 11:00) this

hotel has long been one of our favourites. Its location a
short distance from the city centre is good, and the rooms
are well sized, as are the bathrooms: all of which have
tubs, not just showers. Good, friendly staff and the kind of
homely atmosphere you would expect of a small well-run
hotel.QB-4, B-dul Dacia 125, tel./fax (+4) 021 210 39 58,
www.hoteldan.ro. 15 rooms. PHRULGW
DOUBLETREE BY HILTON
Located just off Bulevardul Unirii, the DoubleTree is something of a beacon of glass and steel in an area not known
for anything except monumental socialist architecture.
73
Hotels
Directory
RAMADA HOTEL & SUITES BUCHAREST NORTH
Well located in a quiet residential area near Herastrau
park. It has great rooms - amongst the biggest, on average, in Bucharest - and the bathrooms are tremendous:
all have bathtubs. There are also studios with kitchenettes for longer stays. The hotel boasts a good spa
centre (with excellent Turkish bath), a big fitness room
with loads of equipment and an outdoor terrace and
swimming pool. Good lobby bar and fine-dining in the
restaurant too.QC-6, Str. Daniel Danielopolu 44A, tel.
(+4) 021 233 50 00, www.ramadanorth.ro. 232 rooms.
PTHR6UFLGKDCW
HOSTELS & VILLAS
based eateries in the city.QE-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata

Muncii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16,, www.goldentuliptimes.
com. 70 rooms. PTHRLGKW
GOLDEN TULIP VICTORIA BUCHAREST
Half-way along Calea Victoriei, a pleasant walk to both Piata
Victoriei and Piata Universitatii, the Golden Tulip is a fine hotel that makes great use of the space available. The bathrooms for example are not huge but feel far bigger than
they are, and all have enough room for bathtubs. Bright
and modern in design we think its suited best to business
travellers looking to get great value for their companys
dollar.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 166, MPiata Romana, tel.
(+4) 021 212 55 58, www.goldentulipbucharest.com. 81
rooms. PTHRUFLGKW
HELLO HOTELS Two stars never looked so good. For
your paltry amount of cash you are getting a lot of hotel room here, complete with flat screen televisions and
mattresses thicker than many a five-star. Bathrooms are
a bit pokey but they are more than adequate, and as far
as value for money goes we think this is one of the best
deals in the city. Find the place a short walk from the
station.QB-4, Calea Grivitei 143, MGara de Nord, tel.
(+4) 0372 12 18 00, www.hellohotels.ro. 150 rooms.
PR6ULGKW
IBIS GARA DE NORD A hotel for more than 40 years
this building (and the whole area) was given a real lift
when it became a good old Ibis some several years ago
now. Expect a room a bit bigger than standard Ibis size, the
usual services, few frills (breakfast costs extra) and all in all
a good value stay. The name is not misleading: it is dead
opposite the station.QA-4, Calea Grivitei 143, MGara
de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 300 91 00, www.ibishotels.ro. 250
rooms. PHR6ULGKW
IBIS PALATUL PARLAMENTULUI
If you want a view of Casa Poporului then this is perhaps
the best place in Bucharest to come. Other than that it
is a fairly standard Ibis hotel, just as you love them from
anywhere else on the planet. Not entirely ideally located if you are not driving, it does boast non-smoking
rooms and very good staff.QB-6, Str. Izvor 82-84, tel.
(+4) 021 401 10 00, www.ibishotels.ro. 161 rooms.
PTHR6ULGKW
MINERVA
It is really hard to knock the Minerva so we will not even
try. Having been around so long it is entitled to a gold
watch, it remains a great choice for business people who
pay their own bills: you get great service, a good room
(a choice of smoking or non-smoking), a dead-central
location yet are only asked for a fraction of what the fivestars charge. The oldest Chinese restaurant in Romania
is located on the ground floor, there is a lively bar and
a good spa, complete with jacuzzi, sauna, Turkish bath
and massage.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4, MPiata
Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 311 15 55, www.minerva.ro.
PHRFGKDW
DOORS HOSTEL Clean, colourful and rather spacious

hostel a short walk south from Piata Unirii. Located in a
classic Bucharest house it benefits from a gorgeous garden/courtyard, an all you can eat breakfast and free Wifi,
amongst much else. Note that they have only shared, mixed
dorms: there are no private rooms. Prices from 12-35.QC-7,
Str. Olimpului 13, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 336 21 27,
www.doorshostel.com. 5 rooms. PTLGKW
CLEANERS
VILA 11 Located in a lovely 1920s house close to Gara de

Nord (one block east of Strada Vespatian and Dinicu Golescu) Vila 11 has a variety of private rooms, dorm facilities
and family suites available for backpackers and families of
all ages. Friendly and welcoming the owners do a great
breakfast (included in the price) and are a wealth of inside
info when it comes to getting the best out of Bucharest.
Prices from 20-54.QA-4, Str. Institutul Medico Militar
11, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 0722 49 59 00, vila11bb@
hotmail.com. 6 rooms. T6GW
DENTISTS
EGNATE Professional cleaning service: apartments, houses, offices etc. They will even come and clear up after you
have had the builders in, and can take care of tricky things
such as marble and furniture.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu
10, tel. (+4) 0734 11 15 55/(+4) 0723 89 22 86, office@
egnate.ro, www.egnate.ro.
B.B. CLINIC - GERMAN DENTIST Unquestionably the

best dentist in the city. Whats more, you can bring the kids
too, as they now have a special room at the Dorobanti location equipped especially for younguns.QD-6, Str. Ionescu
Gion 4, tel./fax (+4) 021 320 01 51, www.germandentist.
ro. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. For emergencies
(24hrs) tel. (+4) 0744 49 91 99. Also at (B-2) Calea Dorobantilor 208, tel. (+4) 021 231 88 56.
SHORT-TERM RENTAL
DRY CLEANERS
APART HOMES
A range of city-centre apartments, from studios to
two-bedroomed places, as well as a villa in Baneasa.
They have someone on call 24 hours for any emergencies, maid service twice a week and offer a variety of
other services. Prices from 50-150.QC-6, Str. George
Valentin Bibescu 33, bl. X/2, sc. A, ap. 6, tel. (+4)
021 232 04 06, www.aparthomes.ro. 20 rooms.
PTR6GW
5ASECQB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 111, tel. (+4) 021 236

00 98, www.5asec.ro. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 19:00. Closed Sun. Also at (E-7) Calea Vitan 13, tel. (+4)
021 320 99 95; B-dul Alex. Serbanescu 60-64, tel. (+4)
021 891 98 44; Cora Alexandrei, Sos. Alexandrei 152, tel.
(+4) 021 776 91 21.
GRAND ACCOMMODATION
Grand Accommodation has a variety of well furnished
apartments and villas to suit all pockets in good locations available for both short and long term rentals.
Prices from 30-80/night.QB-5, Str. Ion Campineanu
29, tel. (+4) 0722 36 75 68/(+4) 021 314 49 50, www.
for-rent.ro.
COUNTRY CLUB
STEJARII COUNTRY CLUB What is unquestionably Romanias leading country club is just slightly
north of Bucharest, in a quiet location just past Ikea
and the Baneasa mall. Boasting a superb spa and offering an amazing range of sports (including squash,
tennis, a climbing wall, a huge indoor swimming pool
and a range of aerobic and martial arts options) they
also even have a golf driving range. There are various
membership options, from a year to simple weekly or
day tickets.QStr. Jandarmeriei 14, tel. (+4) 0744 33
21 55/(+4) 031 424 70 51, www.stejariicountryclub.
ro. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
75
Directory
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
AMERICAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
QSos. Pipera-Tunari 196, Comuna Voluntari, tel.
(+4) 021 204 43 00/(+4) 021 204 43 01, www.aisb.ro.
ATHENA GREEK SCHOOL OF BUCHAREST
QD-6, Str. Parfumului 9, www.greekschool.ro.
BRITISH SCHOOL OF BUCHAREST
QErou Iancu Nicolae 42, tel. (+4) 021 267 89 19/(+4)
0728 13 34 33, www.britishschool.ro.
BUCHAREST CHRISTIAN ACADEMY
QD-7, Aleea Mizil 62B, tel. (+4) 021 323 58 87/(+4)
021 323 54 08, www.bcaromania.org.
CAMBRIDGE SCHOOL OF BUCHAREST
QB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 39, tel. (+4) 021 210 21 31/
(+4) 021 210 21 38, www.cambridgeschool.ro.
INTERNATIONAL BRITISH SCHOOL
QE-5, Str. Agricultori 21-23, tel. (+4) 021 253 16 98,
www.ibsb.ro.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL FOR PRIMARY EDUCATION (INSPE)
QStr. Petre Aurelian 72, Green Lake Residence, tel.
(+4) 021 380 35 35/(+4) 021 380 36 36, www.inspe.
ro.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BUCHAREST
QSos. Gara Catelu 1R, tel. (+4) 021 306 95 30, www.
isb.ro.
IOANID PRESCHOOL INTERNATIONAL EDUCATIONQStr. Jandarmeriei 14, tel. (+4) 0746 04 10
00, www.internationalkindergarden.ro.
JAPANESE SCHOOL IN BUCHAREST
QA-2, Str. Alexandru Constantinescu 61, tel. (+4)
021 222 19 85, www.jpschool.ro.
LAUDER-REUT
QC-6, Str. Iuliu Barasch 15, tel. (+4) 021 320 15 38,
www.lauder-reut.ro.
LYCEE FRANCAIS
QSos. Bucuresti-Ploiesti 160A, tel. (+4) 021 212 58
93, www.lyfrabuc.ro.
MARK TWAIN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
QStr. Erou Iancu Nicolae 25B, tel. (+4) 021 267 89
12/(+4) 0724 00 09 00, www.marktwainschool.ro.
Directory
FOREIGN REPRESENTATIONS
AUSTRIA QC-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 7, tel. (+4) 021
201 56 124.
BELGIUM QD-4, B-dul Dacia 58, tel. (+4) 021 210 29 69.
BULGARIA QB-3, Str. Rabat 5, tel. (+4) 021 230 21 50.
CANADA QA-3, Str. Tuberozelor 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 307 50 00.
CROATIA QD-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 1, tel. (+4) 021 300 36 55.
CZECH REPUBLIC QC-5, Str. Ion Ghica 11, tel. (+4) 021
303 92 30.
DENMARK QD-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 3, tel. (+4) 021 300 08 00.
FINLAND QB-3, Str. Atena 2bis, tel. (+4) 021 230 75 45.
FRANCE QB-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 13-15, tel. (+4) 021
303 10 00.
GERMANY QB-3, Cpt. Av. Gh. Demetriade 6-8, tel. (+4)
021 202 98 30.
SWIMMING POOLS & SPAS

HILTON HEALTH CLUB Indoor pool, sauna, steam
room, massage, weight and fitness room, and a host
of other wellness facilities.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3
(Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77.
Open 06:00 - 22:00. Day tickets cost 120 lei.
INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL The highest swimming pool in Romania (its on one of the top floors of
the InterContinental hotel). The views are great, there is
a gym and steam room too, and you can sunbathe on
the balcony.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20. Open 06:00 - 22:00.
Day tickets valid 06:00-16:00 cost 80 lei (adults), 40
lei (children). Tickets valid until 06:00-22:00 cost
120 lei (adults) and 80 lei (children).
GREECE QE-5, Str. Pache Protopopescu 1-3, tel. (+4)

021 209 41 70.
HUNGARY QC-4, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 63-65, tel.
(+4) 031 620 43 00.
IRELAND QB-4, Str. Buzesti 50-52, et. 3, tel. (+4) 021
310 21 31.
ITALY QB-4, Str. Henri Coanda 9, tel. (+4) 021 305 21 00.
MOLDOVA QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 40, tel. (+4) 021
230 04 74.
NETHERLANDS QB-3, Str. Aleea Alexandru 20, tel.
(+4) 021 208 60 30.
NORWAY QB-3, Str. Atena 18, tel. (+4) 021 306 98 00.
POLAND QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 23, tel. (+4) 021 308 22 00.
PORTUGAL QB-3, Str. Paris 55, tel. (+4) 021 230 41 36.
RUSSIA QB-3, Sos. Pavel Kiseleff 6, tel. (+4) 021 222 31 70.
SERBIA QB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 34, tel. (+4) 021 211 98 71.
SPAIN QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 43, tel. (+4) 021 318 10 80.
SWEDEN QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 43, tel. (+4) 021 406 71 00.
SWITZERLAND QB-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 1620, tel. (+4) 021 206 16 00.
UK QC-4, Str. Jules Michelet 24, tel. (+4) 021 201 72 00.
USA QB-dul Liviu Librescu 4-5, tel. (+4) 021 200 33 00.
PHARMACIES
HELP NET QC-6, B-dul Unirii 27, tel. (+4) 031 405 04 59,
www.helpnet.ro. Also at (B-3) Str. Av. Radu Beller 8, tel.
(+4) 031 405 04 79 and many other locations.
SENSIBLU QB-3, Str. Radu Beller 6, tel. (+4) 021 233 89 61,
www.sensiblu.com. Open 24hrs. Also at (C-5) B-dul N. Balcescu 7, tel. (+4) 021 305 73 14 and many other locations.
REMOVALS / STORAGE
AGS WORLDWIDE MOVERS QB-dul Basarabia 256
(Faur Industrial Park, gate 4, entrance from B-dul 1
Decembrie 1918), tel. (+4) 021 345 06 66, www.agsworldwide-movers.com.
EURO MINI STORAGE QB-dul Theodor Pallady 42 J,
3rd District, Bucharest, tel. (+4) 031 100 18 88, www.
euroministorage.com.
PESCARIU SPORTS & SPA Big indoor pool open to

non-members. Gets very busy at the weekends: arrive
early to bag a place by the pool.QD-2, Str. Glodeni
3, tel. (+4) 021 242 16 15/(+4) 0372 73 19 72, www.
pescariusports.ro. Open 06:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 22:00. Adults 60 lei Mon-Fri, 100 lei Sat, Sun.
Children 40 lei Mon-Fri, 50 lei Sat, Sun. Free for children under three.
MARKET VALUES
PREMIER PALACE SPA HOTEL Luxurious spa,

with large indoor swimming pool. Not just your standard pool and sauna, this is a genuine spa with all sorts
of thermariums, hydropools, steam rooms, hammams
and loads more. There are also hundreds of treatments
and relaxation options.QB-dul Ghencea 134, tel.
(+4) 031 407 60 10, www.premierpalace.ro. Open
10:00 - 22:00 (Swimming pool open 08:00 - 22:00).
Day tickets to the whole spa cost 120 lei (adults).
Swimming pool tickets cost 50 lei (adults), 40 lei
(children).
1 is currently worth around 4.40 lei. A pint of local beer

in a central Bucharest bar or pub will cost you around
8 lei (1.82). A McDonalds Big Mac costs 11 lei (2.50),
while a loaf of plain bread in a local store is 1.20 lei
(0.27). A packet of 20 international brand cigarettes
costs 14.50 lei (3.29), and one litre of standard unleaded petrol 6.17 lei (1.40). A one-trip ticket for public
transport ticket costs 1.30 lei (0.29).
77
Northern Bucharest
Village
Museum
Romanian National
Rugby Stadium
Arc de Triumf
Casa Victor
Romanian
Television (TVR)
ence
id
Res
l de
Arcu
m
Triu
ond
llo M
Pico
Circus Globus
Peasant
Museum
Nonna Mia
Geology
Museum
Emergency Hospital
Institutul Matei Bals
Grigore
Antipa
Museum
Starlight
Childrens
Emergency Hospital
Piata Obor
Marshal Garden
Minerva
George Enescu
Museum
Duke
Ibis Gara
de Nord
Hello
Moxa
Howard Johnson
Grand Plaza
Dan
Golden Tulip
Yeshoah Tova
Art Collections
Museum
Andys
Central & Southern Bucharest
Piata
Amzei
Athenee
Palace
Hilton
Scala
Theodor
Aman
Museum
Radisson Blu
University
Carol I Library
Statue
Italian Church
Interior
Ministry
National Revolution
Art
Monument
Museum
(MNAR) Cretulescu
Comfort
Suites
Tempo
El Greco
Opera
Trianon
Novotel
Epoque
Schitul
Darvari
Boutique Hotel Monaco
Ambassador
Berthelot
InterContinental
Grand
Continental
stic
Maje
Capitol
Casa
Caps
Cismigiu
Museum of
Bucharest
Z Boutique
K&K
Elisabeta
Coltea Church
& Hospital
Central
Doamnei
Russian
Church
Volo
Rembrandt
Mihai Voda
History
Museum
Stavropoleos
Church
Tania
Baratiei
Sf. Dumitru
Old Court Palace
& Church
Ibis Parliament
Parliament
Confort Traian
Cocor
NH
Europa Royale
Domnita
Balasa
International
Unirea
Royal
Contemporary Art
Museum
Antim Monastery
JW Marriott
Horoscop
Double Tree by Hilton

Patriarchal
Cathedral
Radu Voda
Monastery
Bucur
Church
Carol Parc
Suter Inn
Technology
Museum
M
Street register
13 Septembrie, Calea
B6
21 Decembrie 1989, Piata C5
Academiei, Str.
C5
Alecsandri Vasile, Str.
B4
Alexandrescu Grigore, Intr. C4
Alexandrescu Grigore, Str. B4
Aman Theodor, Str.
B5
Amman, Str.
C3
Amzei, Intr.
B4
Apolodor, Str.
B6
Argentina, Str.
B3
Arghezi Tudor, Str.
C5
Atelierului, Str.
A4
Atena, Str.
B3
Balaban Emil, Str.
C4
Balcescu Nicolae, Bd.
C5
Baniei, Str.
C6
Banului, Str.
B5
Baratiei, Str.
C6
Batistei, Str.
C5
Berna, Str.
B3
Berthelot H. M., G-ral., Str. B5
Berzei, Str.
A4
Biserica Amzei, Str.
B4
Biserica Enei, Str.
C5
Bitolia, Intr.
B3
Blanari, Str.
C6
Blanc Louis, Arh., Str.
B3
Blanduziei, Str.
C5
Bogdan Ion, Prof., Str.
C4
Botez Eugen, Cmdr., Str. C3
Bratianu I.c., Bd.
C6
Brazilia, Str.
B3
Brebu, Str.
E3
Brezoianu Ion, Str.
B5
Brutus M.i., Str.
B6
Bruxelles, Str.
B3
Budisteanu Constantin,
G-ral, Str.
B5
Buiestrului, Str.
C3
Buzesti, Intr.
B4
Buzesti, Piata
A4
Buzesti, Str.
B4
Buzoiani Iani, Str.
C2
Buzoianu Ion, Lt.col., Intr. C6
Caderea Bastiliei, Intr.
B4
Caderea Bastiliei, Str.
B4
Caderon Jean Louis, Str. C5
Calin Ion, Erou, Str.
C4
Cameliei, Str.
A4
Carada Eugeniu, Str.
C6
Caragea Ioan Voda, Str.
C4
Caragiale I.l., Str.
C5
Caragiale I.l.,intr.
C5
Carol I, Bd.
D5
Catargiu Lascar, Bd.
B4
Cavafii Vechi, Str.
C6
Cazzavillan Luigi, Str.
B5
Cernat Alexandru,
G-ral, Str.
A4
Cioranu Mihai, Str.
A6
Clucerului, Str.
A3
Clunet, Dr., Str.
A6
Coanda Constantin, G-ral., Str.
B4
Coanda Henri, Str.
B4
Cobalcescu Grigore,
Prof., Str.
B5
Coltei, Str.
C5
Constantin Daniel, Str.
B4
Constitutiei, Piata
B6
Conta Vasile, Str.
C5
Coposu Corneliu, Bd.
C6
Coposu Corneliu, Piata
D6
Cornescu, Str.
C3
Cotiturii, Str.
A5
Covaci, Str.
C6
Crisana, Str.
A5
Crisului, Str.
C6
Cronicarilor, Str.
C3
Cuza Alexandru Ioan, Bd. A4
Dacia, Bd.
D4
Dascalu Nicolae, Serg., Intr. B4
David Emmanuel, Str.
C4
Davila Carol, Dr., Str
A6
Dealul Mitropoliei, Alee
C6
Demetriade Gheorghe, Cpt.
av., Str
B3
Dianei, Str.
C5
Doamna Oltea, Str.
C3
Dona Nicolae, G-ral, Str.
B5
Dorobanti, Calea
B3
Dorobanti, Piata
B3
Dragalina Ion, G-ral., Str. B6
Drobeta, Str.
C4
Duca Gheorghe, Bd.
A4
Dumbrava Rosie, Str.
C4
Eforie, Str.
C5
Eftimiu Victor, Intr.
B5
Elie Radu, Str.
B5
Eminescu Mihai, Intr.
C4
Eminescu Mihai, Str.
D4
Enescu George, Piata
B5
Enescu George, Str.
B5
Episcopiei, Str.
C5
Eroii Sanitari, Bd.
A5
Eroilor, Bd.
A5
Eroilor, Piata
A6
Felix Iacob, Dr., Str.
A4
Filipescu Nicolae, Str.
C5
Finlanda, Str.
B3
Floreasca, Cale
C3
Florescu Ion, G-ral, Str.
C5
Franceza, Str.
C6
Frumoasa, Intr.
B4
Frumoasa, Str.
B4
Furtuna Stefan, Intr.
A5
Gabroveni, Str.
C6
Gara De Nord, Piata
A4
Gara De Nord, Str.
A4
Georgescu George, Str.
B6
Ghica Ion, Str.
C5
Golescu Dinicu, Bd.
A4
Golescu Nicolae, Str.
C5
Greceanu Paul, Str.
C4
Grigorescu Eremia, Str.
C4
Grivitei, Cale
B4
Gusti Dimitrie, Str.
A5
Gutenberg, Str.
B5
Haga, Str.
B3
Hagi Moscu Maria, Str.
A3
Halelor, Str.
C6
Haret Spiru, Str.
B5
Hasdeu Iulia, Intr.
B4
Hasdeu Iulia, Str.
B4
Horatiu, Str.
B4
Hristo Botev, Bd.
C5
Iancu De Hunedoara, Bd. B4
Icoanei, Str.
C4
Ilfov, Str.
B6
Iorga Nicolae, Intr.
B4
Iorga Nicolae, Str.
B4
Iosif O. Eugen, Dr., Str.
A6
Iulian Stefan, Str.
A3
Izvor, Str.
A6
Justitiei, Str.
B6
Kiseleff P.d., Bd.
B3
Kogalniceanu Mihail, Bd B5
Kogalniceanu Mihail, Piata B5

Lacatusului, Str.
C2
Lacul Tei, Bd.
D3
Lahovari Alexandru, Piata C4
Lantului, Str.
A6
Lascar Vasile, Str.
C5
Lazar Gheorghe, Str.
B5
Lebedei, Str.
A3
Libertatii, Bd.
B6
Libertatii, Piata
B7
Lipova, Str.
A5
Lipscani, Str.
C6
Lisabona, Str.
B3
Lister, Dr., Str.
A6
Londra, Str.
B3
Lupu Dionisie, Str.
C5
Luterana, Str.
B5
Macedoniei, Str.
A5
Magheru Gheorghe, Bd C5
Magiresti, Str.
A4
Maltopol, Str.
A4
Mamulari, Str.
C6
Manolescu Grigore, Str.
A3
Manu Gheorghe, G-ral, Str. B4
Maracineanu Walter, Piata B5
Masaryk Thomas, Str.
C5
Mendeleev D.i., Str.
C4
Mexic, Str.
B3
Michelet Julles, Str.
C4
Micle Veronica, Str.
A4
Mihai Voda, Str.
B6
Mihalache Ion, Bd.
A3
Mihnea Voda, Str.
C6
Mille Constantin, Str.
B5
Millo Matei, Str.
B5
Mincu Ion, Arh., Str.
B3
Mirinescu Mihail, Dr., Str. A6
Miron Costin, Str.
A4
Mitropolit Antim Ivireanul, Str.
B6
Monetariei, Str.
B3
Mosilor, Cale
D4
Moxa Mihail, Str.
B4
Muresanu Andrei, Str.
B3
Musatescu Tudor, Piata
B5
Natiunile Unite, Bd.
B6
Natiunile Unite, Piata
B6
Neculce Ion, Str.
A3
Negri Costache, Str.
A6
Negruzzi Iacob, Str.
A4
Negulescu Stefan, Str.
C3
Occidentului, Str.
B4
Oslo, Str.
B3
Ostasilor, Str.
B5
Otetari,str. C5
Paris, Str.
B3
Parvan Vasile, Str.
B5
Pasteur Louis, Dr., Str.
A6
Patriarhiei, Str.
C6
Petrescu Camil, Intr.
C4
Philippide Alexandru, Str. C4
Piata Amzei, Str.
B4
Pitar Mos, Str.
C5
Poenaru Bordea, Str.
B6
Poiana Narciselor, Str.
B5
Politie, Str.
B6
Polizu Gheorghe, Str.
A4
Polona, Str.
C4
Poni Petru, Str.
A4
Popa Tatu, Str.
B5
Popescu-gopo Ion, Str.
A6
Povernei, Str.
B4
Praga, Str.
B3
Praporgescu David,
G-ral., Str.
C5
Pretorienilor, Str.
A6
Putul Cu Plopi, Str.
B5
Putul Lui Zamfir, Str.
B3
Quinet Edgar, Str.
C5
Quito, Piata
B3
Rabat, Str.
B3
Radu Voda, Str.
C6
Ramniceanu Naum, Str.
C3
Regina Elisabeta, Bd.
C5
Regina Maria, Bd.
C6
Revolutiei, Piata
B5
Rigas, Intr.
B5
Roma, Intr.
B3
Roma, Str.
B3
Romana, Piata
B4
Rosetti C.a., Piata
C5
Rosetti C.a., Str.
C5
Rosetti Maria, Str.
C5
Rossini Gioachino, Str.
C3
Saligny Anghel, Ing., Str. B5
Sapientei, Str.
B6
Sarandy Frosa, Str.
A3
Scarlatescu, Str.
A3
Schitul Magureanu, Bd.
B5
Scoala Floreasca, Str.
C3
Scoalei, Str.
C5
Selari, Intr.
C6
Selari, Str.
C6
Sepcari, Str.
C6
Sevastopol, Intr.
B4
Sevastopol, Str.
B4
Sfanta Vineri, Str.
C6
Sfantul Constantin, Str.
B5
Sfantul Elefterie, Str.
A6
Sfintii Apostoli, Str.
B6
Sfintii Voievozi, Piata
B4
Sfintii Voievozi, Str.
B4
Slanic, Str.
C5
Slatineanu Ion, Str.
C4
Slavesti, Str.
C4
Smardan, Str.
C6
Sofia, Str.
B3
Stahi Constantin, Str.
B5
Staicovici Nicolae, Dr., Str. A6
Stavropoleos, Str.
C6
Stefan Cel Mare, Sosea
D4
Stirbei Voda, Intr.
B5
Stirbei Voda, Str.
B5
Tirana, Str.
B3
Titulescu Nicolae, Sosea A4
Tokio, Str.
B3
Tomescu Toma, Dr., Intr. B4
Transilvaniei, Str.
B5
Tudor Stefan, Intr.
C3
Tunari, Str.
C4
Unirii, Bd.
C6
Unirii, Piata
C6
Universitatii, Piata
C5
Vacarescu Barbu, Str.
C3
Venezuela, Str.
B3
Verona Arthur, Pictor, Str. C5
Victoriei, Calea
B4
Victoriei, Piata
B4
Visarion I.c., Str.
B4
Vladoianu Barbu, G-ral, Str. A3
Vlaicu Aurel, Str.
C4
Vulcanescu Mircea, Str.
B4
Washington, Str.
B3
Witting, Str.
A4
Xenopol Alexandru, Str. C4
Zalomit Z. Ion. Str.
B5
Zola Emile, Str.
B3

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U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking E Live music

FOOD & DRINK

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LATELIER LART CULINAIRE

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