January 2008 • V o l . 14 N o .

New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists • www.nyscc.org

CHAIR
Suellen Bennett
(732) 417-0800 x2153
s.bennett@crodausa.com
“Pyrolysis Gas Chromatography:
CHAIR-ELECT
An Underutilized and Underappreciated
Joe Albanese
(609) 443-2320
joseph.albanese@elementis.com
Analytical Technique”
…Edward G. Malawer
TREASURER

I
If you were to ask a small child if an elephant certainly used in polymer analysis, but are very limited
Bill Woods could fit through the eye of a needle the answer in sensitivity and specificity. A specialty detector like
(201) 655-4155 would undoubtedly be a resounding, “No!” If you an evaporative light scattering detector can be useful
wbwoods@optonline.net
were to ask a polymer chemist or a chromatographer for polymer analysis using liquid chromatography,
SECRETARY if a very large molecule such as a polymer could pass but it also has a sensitivity issue and a limited linear
Sonia Dawson through a gas chromatograph, the answer would dynamic range. A mass spectrometer (MS) detector is
(732) 417-0800 x2160 likely be either, “No” or, “Not in one piece.” Either very sensitive and specific (and therefore quite useful),
s.dawson@crodausa.com
response would be correct. Most chemists who have however, the LC/MS interface chosen may limit the
ADVISOR had some exposure to modern analytical instrumental type of polymer which can be analyzed. In addition,
Anthony Ansaldi techniques know something about gas the LC/MS tandem technique is quite
(973) 347-1664
chromatography (GC). They are aware expensive. Many polymers have
tony.ansaldi@dksh.com
that GC works well to separate and minimal solubility in any solvent;
HOUSE then analyze individual volatile solubility of the analyte is a
Alison Griffin compounds in a mixture of some prerequisite for HPLC analysis.
(215) 320-1581
sort. The key word here is volatile. So, how can one take advantage
agriffin@inolex.com
What if the analyte of interest were of a number of useful detectors unique
MEMBERSHIP not volatile? If the compound to gas chromatography such as flame-
Amy Marshall could be heated to a temperature ionization (FID), nitrogen-phosphorus
(908) 806-4664
above its boiling point in the (NPD), photoionization (PID), and Hall
amy.marshall@altana.com
injection port of the GC and it detectors, which are both sensitive and
COSMETISCOPE EDITOR did not decompose under the (other than FID) specific to certain kinds
Roger McMullen conditions of heating, then it of organic compounds in order to
(973) 872-4391
roger.mcmullen@gmail.com
could possibly be analyzed perform polymer analysis? The answer is
by GC provided the stationary pyrolysis! Placing a pyrolysis unit on the
COSMETISCOPE phase (GC column) and GC detector were appropriate front end (injector) of a gas chromatograph
ASSISTANT EDITOR/
EMPLOYMENT
for that compound and its matrix. So, if the analyte of provides a means by which to introduce an inherently
Tim Gillece
interest in the sample were a polymer, and polymers nonvolatile compound into the instrument in a form
(973) 628-3209 do not have boiling points (rather they have thermal which can successfully negotiate the column and be
tgillece@yahoo.com decomposition temperatures), would the analyst be sensed and quantitated by the detector. In the case
COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING
relegated to using a non-thermal separation technique of a polymer molecule, this means passing it though
Ni’Kita Wilson such as liquid chromatography? Not necessarily! the GC system in fragments which are individually
(973) 882-5151 x206 The most common detector used in liquid volatile. While this technique is, therefore, inherently
niki@cosmetech.com chromatography is a UV-visible detector followed destructive, it is extremely useful for polymer analysis.
SPECIAL EVENTS
by a refractive index detector. Polymers which have In the remainder of this space, let us consider
Phil Klepak no UV-visible chromophore cannot be sensed, let some of the many potential applications of
(908) 219-5264 alone quantitated by such a detector. Refractive pyrolysis GC, although a comprehensive
pklepak@reheis.com index detectors are more universal in nature, and are (Continued on Page 6)

NYSCC MONTHLY MEETING • JANUARY 9

SUPPLIERS’ DAY
Diane Nordstrom

HYATT REGENCY • NEW BRUNSW ICK, NEW JERSEY

dianenordstrom@embarqmail.com
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“Notes from Underground”
O
h, the delights of January – drab weather,
no more paid holidays until February
(if you’re lucky, and your company
gives you President’s Day off), a distinct short-
age of guiltless opportunities to eat and drink
too much. It’s enough to send a person into a
depression. But wait, on the horizon looms a
bright spot of fun. What is it, you ask? It’s the
January meeting of the NYSCC! An afternoon
and evening of fellowship and fun, all coupled
with ample opportunity to eat and drink too
much. Why, it’s just like the Holidays, minus the
annoying family members!
Come one, come all to our first meeting of 2008 at
the Hyatt Regency in New Brunswick on Wednesday,
January 9th. Our speaker, Professor Bonnie Bassler
from Princeton University, will be speaking on
quorum sensing. What is quorum sensing, you ask?
Believe it or not, it is a process by which bacteria
communicate. It involves signaling molecules,
much like pheromones in humans, which control
the replication of bacteria. In this era of MRSA,
and all types of antibiotic resistance, it seems to
be a very timely topic. Pathogenic bacteria will use
quorum sensing to evade the immune response
of the host, and increase their virulence. It is
scary stuff. There is also quorum quenching – the
enzymatic degradation of signaling molecules –
which disrupts the whole process. Perhaps
quorum quenching is the new frontier of
disease eradication?
Thanks to all of you who sent in your ballots
back in October. I would like to congratulate
CONTACT
Teamworks 2008
IAMI c/o SCC Midwest Chapter
207 W. Ash St., Lombard, IL 60148
Tel: 1-888-411-IAMI (4264) or 1-630-268-0656
Fax: 1-630-889-0845
E-mail: teamworks@midwestscc.org
January 2008
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…Chapter Chairperson Suellen Bennett
our two new officers – Joe Albanese, the Chair-Elect, and
Sonia Dawson, the Secretary. I look forward to working
with both of you. I’d also like to take this chance to
thank all of the people who have agreed to volunteer
their time as Board members. We have some new
faces this year – Kristen Potts and Jason O’Neill are
handling Arrangements and Rey Ordiales will be
covering Public Relations. I’m looking forward to a
smashing year! Please do not hesitate to offer up any
comment, whether it be positive or negative, about our
Chapter. Improvements cannot be made unless we know
about them, so I urge you all to let me know how you feel.
At the last few meetings, it seemed like attendance was
lower. Are we not advertising the meetings enough? Are the
meetings not on acceptable dates? Are the speakers and topics
not of interest? Do you not like the venues? I’m sure it is a com-
bination of many things, and in that vein, the Board has decided
to try and change things up. The first thing that you’ll notice is
that the January meeting is on the SECOND Wednesday of the
month, not the first. We realize that people are often crunched
right after holidays, so we thought that the date change might be
a good thing. We will also be changing the date for the September
meeting to the second, instead of the first, Wednesday of the
month because of the Labor Day holiday. Our e-mail blast system
is up and running, so we will keep you informed well in advance
of any and all meetings. Be sure that we have your current, correct
contact information so the blasts go to the right place. In terms
of venues, we have a few alternatives planned, so get ready to try
some new food. As for the speakers and topics, we have been
tossing around some novel ideas for meetings that I think will
generate plenty of excitement. Hold onto your hats, it’s going to
be a wild ride!
Happy New Year!
SCC Midwest Chapter
TEAMWORKS 2008
The premier industrial trade show for the
personal care industry in mid-America
March 26, 2008 • 12–7 PM
Donald E. Stephens Convention Center
Rosemont, IL (Chicago)
Social Night March 25, 2008
RESERVE YOUR EXHIBIT SPACE NOW!
Reach more than 1,000 chemists in the cosmetic, personal
care, pharmceutical and allied industries!
DON’T DELAY.
Booth space is assigned on a first come, first served basis.
For current information visit: www.midwestscc.org
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Cosmetiscope
Make Note of It!…
Contact pe
isco
Cosmet r...
E-MAILING ADDRESS
edito
Send news of interest, guest editorials and comments to:

-4391
973-872
Roger McMullen, Editor
Phone (973) 872-4391
E-mail: roger.mcmullen@gmail.com

January 2008
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NYSCC Educational Hour…4:30 to 5:30 pm

Speaker… Holly Young
Topic…The Impact of Global Regulations on Health & Beauty
Packaging: Possibilities, Regulations, Roadblocks, and Solutions
January 9, 2008 • Hyatt Regency, New Brunswick, NJ
Abstract:

I
n this session we will explore all aspects of actual health design studio in New York City. From filing
& beauty product packaging and package labeling. We and answering the phones to learning design,
will also address how various regulations and restrictions typesetting, and production mechanicals on the job, Holly has
impact making the package “global.” witnessed the evolution of the graphics industry.
The importance of the visual aspects of the package Trading in her mechanical pencils, ruling pens, t-squares,
itself is discussed as well as trends in the industry. The thrust and rubber cement for computers, scanners, and state-of-the-art
of the presentation outlines what is required on the package printers, Holly has also evolved from Gal Friday to production
with solutions for various markets and product types as artist & typesetter to studio manager and finally to company
well as a view of the newest sunscreen regulations in owner of an industry leader in global packaging graphics for
the United States. the cosmetics, health & beauty, and fragrance industries.
Ms. Young’s company, Hirschhorn + Young Graphics, provides
Biography: a comprehensive suite of production art and packaging design

M
s. Young started her career in the cosmetics solutions to help bring health & beauty products to market
packaging industry over 35 years ago, around the globe, for companies such as Clinique, Chanel,
beginning as a “Gal Friday” at a small Avon, BeautyBank, Prada Beauty, and Del Labs.

Monthly Meeting Registration…3 Ways to Register!

1 Students and Emeritus Members are FREE…and now CREDIT CARD registration is here!
. REGISTER WITH A CREDIT CARD
The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists will now accept monthly meeting registration by credit card.
Credit cards will be accepted during pre-registration and registration at the door. To pre-register and for more

2
information, go to www.nyscc.org.
. PAY AT THE DOOR
Pre-registration with the option to pay at the door will remain. As in the past, go to our website
www.nyscc.org to register at the door and bring your check to the meeting. If you have any questions regarding
registration, please contact Sonia Dawson (s.dawson@crodausa.com, 732-417-0800 x2160).

3 . REGISTER BY MAIL**
If you must register by mail, please mail a completed copy of this page together with a check payable to “NYSCC.”
Please Note: Reservations will not be honored without payment and must be received no later than Noon the
Friday before the meeting. There will be a surcharge at the door for those without reservations.
** If paying by check, you’re payment and pre-registration information must be RECEIVED by the arrangements chair,
Sonia Dawson, BEFORE the day of the meeting. If it is not, your original check will be returned to you and you will
be required to pay the door fee upon arrival at the meeting.
Please mail a completed copy of this page together with check to:
Sonia Dawson, 26 Lee Street, Apt. 1A, Edison, NJ 08817
Tel: 732-417-0800 x2160 • Email: s.dawson@crodausa.com
YES, I will be attending the January Meeting. I have enclosed a check for (please indicate applicable status)
 $25 (each SCC member) or  $35 (each non-member) made payable to “NYSCC.”
Name(s) _________________________________________ Company ___________________________________________

Address_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
City __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ State ____________________________________________ Zip ______________________________________

Phone _________________________________________________________________________ Fax ____________________________________________________________________ Number attending _____________________

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NYSCC January Chapter Meeting…

Speaker… Bonnie Bassler, Ph.D.
Topic… Small Talk: Cell-to-Cell Communication in Bacteria
January 9, 2008 • Hyatt Regency, New Brunswick, NJ
Educational Hour Starts: 4:30 PM • Cocktail Reception: 5:30 PM
Pre-registered SCC members: $25 • Pre-registered non-SCC members: $35
Register at the Door: $40
Abstract:

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ell-to-cell communication in bacteria involves the production, release, and subsequent detection of
chemical signaling molecules called autoinducers. This process, called quorum sensing, allows
bacteria to regulate gene expression on a population-wide scale. Processes controlled by quorum
sensing are usually ones that are unproductive when undertaken by an individual bacterium, but become
effective when undertaken by the group. For example, quorum sensing controls bioluminescence, secretion
of virulence factors, biofilm formation, sporulation, and the exchange of DNA. Thus, quorum sensing is a
mechanism that allows bacteria to function as multi-cellular organisms. Bacteria make, detect, and integrate
information from multiple autoinducers, some of which are used exclusively for intra-species communication
while others enable communication between species. Research is now focused on the development of therapies
that interfere with quorum sensing to control bacterial virulence.

Biography:

D
r. Bassler, a member of the National Academy of Sciences and American
Academy of Arts and Sciences, is a Howard Hughes Medical Investigator
and the Squibb Professor of Molecular Biology at Princeton University.
She received a B.S. in Biochemistry from the University of California at Davis,
and a Ph.D. in Biochemistry from the Johns Hopkins University. She performed
postdoctoral work in Genetics at the Agouron Institute, and she joined the
Princeton faculty in 1994. The research in her laboratory focuses on the
molecular mechanisms that bacteria use for intercellular communication.
This process is called quorum sensing. Dr. Bassler is the Director of Graduate
Studies in the Molecular Biology Department, and she teaches both undergraduate
and graduate courses. Dr. Bassler was awarded a MacArthur Foundation
Fellowship in 2002. She was elected to the American Academy of Microbiology in
2002 and made a fellow of the American Association for the Advancement of Science
in 2004. She was given the 2003 Theobald Smith Society Waksman Award and she is the 2006 recipient
of the American Society for Microbiology’s Eli Lilly Investigator Award for fundamental contributions to
microbiological research. Bassler is an editor for Molecular Microbiology and Annual Reviews of Genetics,
and she is an associate editor for the Journal of Bacteriology. Among other duties, she serves on grant, fellowship,
and award review panels for the National Institutes of Health, National Science Foundation, American
Society for Microbiology, American Academy of Microbiology, Keck Foundation, Burroughs Wellcome Trust,
and the Max Planck Society.
Directions to Hyatt Regency, New Brunswick
From NJ Turnpike…Exit Turnpike at Exit 9; bear right onto Route 18 North for about 3
miles; exit Route 18 for Route 27 South (towards Princeton); loop under Route 18 and
make left at 2nd light; hotel is on the left side.
From GSP Southbound…Take Exit 130 to Route 1 South; exit Route 1 for Route 18; exit
Route 18 for Route 27 South (towards Princeton); loop under Route 18 and make left at 2nd
light; hotel is on the left side.
From GSP Northbound…Take Exit 129 and follow NJ Turnpike directions heading south on NJ Turnpike.
From Route 287…Exit Route 287 for Easton Avenue (Exit 10); stay on Easton Avenue until it ends
(7 miles); make left onto Albany Street (Route 27); at 2nd light, make a right; hotel is on the left side.

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Pyrolysis Gas Chromatography
coverage of this subject is beyond the scope of this article.
 FUNDAMENTALS
The pyrolysis GC system must consist of a pyrolyzer
affixed to the injection port of the GC, the chromatograph
itself, and any one or more of the aforementioned GC
detectors. An MS detector will allow for the greatest amount
of information to be gathered from the analytes but is not
necessary for many successful applications. Pyrolysis is the
chemical decomposition to lower molecular weight fragments
of organic compounds by heating in the absence of
oxygen. The heating temperature employed is typically
in the range of 500 to 850 °C. The objective of the
deliberate decomposition process is to cause the formation
of characteristic fragments of the large molecule which
represent the larger molecule in the analysis. If the
pyrolysis is carried out in such a vigorous manner that
only common, low molecular weight compounds such
as ethylene, water, and carbon dioxide are formed, the
value of the technique is nullified. (Such byproducts
can be formed from the decomposition of almost
any organic compound and cannot provide any
information about the parent compound.)
Therefore, what is required for successful
pyrolysis GC analysis is a carefully controlled
pyrolysis step. This is accomplished through
precise control of temperature and the time
the sample is at that temperature. Various
methylating agents can be added to the
sample prior to pyrolysis to increase the
volatility of polar fragments (particularly
acids) and enable them to be eluted from
the GC column.1
Commercial pyrolysis units are available
from several instrumentation companies
and can be interfaced to a variety of common
manufacturers’ gas chromatographs. Com-
mercial pyrolysis attachments are primarily
of two types: resistively heated electrical
filaments and Curie point units.2 In the case
of the latter, a ferromagnetic wire is heated
January 2008
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(Continued from Page 1)
inductively in a radio-frequency field to its Curie point, the
temperature at which the alloy becomes paramagnetic and ceases
to absorb RF energy. This type of pyrolyzer has the advantage of
very precise temperature control of the sample’s pyrolysis step but
is limited to the discrete and characteristic Curie point temperatures
of the alloys supplied. The former type has the advantage that any
temperature can be selected for pyrolysis.
 SELECTED LITERATURE APPLICATIONS
Given the relative scarcity of pyrolysis attachments in most
GC laboratories, the number and variety of papers which have
been published related to pyrolysis GC is truly amazing. A specific
journal called the Journal of Analytical and Applied Pyrolysis
(Elsevier) is dedicated to the technique. Since it is not possible to
comprehensively review the entire field here, it is necessary to omit
such interesting applications as bioremediation, environmental
analysis, and the analysis of carbonaceous chondrites (meteorites).
Polymer Characterization
Goetz et al. at L’Oreal published a monograph chapter on the
characterization of a variety of copolymers via pyrolysis GC.3 Many
laboratories have employed this technique for the determination of
monomers incorporated into copolymers. My own laboratory at
ISP did so for styrene-butadiene latices. A series of standard
copolymers of known, different comonomer levels is required to
calibrate the instrument (as verified typically by NMR analysis).
Other workers have covered such subjects as:
• Thermal degradation of aromatic polyester-imide.4
• Quantification of end-groups in polystyrenes.5
• Determination of the nitrogen content of cationic cellulose
fibers.6
• Quantitative analysis of thermosetting acrylic resins used in
automotive enamels.7
• Analysis of chewing gum, natural rubber, and polystyrene
foam packaging material.8
• Quantitation of fumaric and itaconic acids in emulsion
polymers.9
• Trace analysis of silicone polymers in paper.10
• Characterizing fatty acids, lipids, and proteins in developing
(cellulosic) cotton fibers.11
Personal Care (polymer and surfactant applications)
and biological systems
In addition to the aforementioned monograph chapter by
Goetz et al., a variety of workers have focused on specific personal
care applications:
• Identification of vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium chlo
ride (BASF Luviquat) copolymers in cosmetic hair care
products.12
• Determination of sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate in
ternary mixtures.13
• Analysis of hair samples; analysis of bathroom cleaners for
surfactants.14
• Human hair comparison.15
• Profiling of fatty acids in traces of lipids obtained from

W W W . N Y S C
human skin, vegetable oil, and cosmetic lotions.16
• Identification of cosmetic filler substances (such as PMMA
or siloxane) used for augmentation purposes in human skin.17
• Identification of chitin in sensory hairs of silkmoth olfactory
sensilla.18
• Determination of sulfur in sulfur-containing amino acids:
methionine, cystine, and cysteine.19
• Analysis of thermal decomposition byproducts of betaines.20
• Differentiation (by a rapid test) of Group A and B streptococci
bacteria using a chemical marker.21
Art preservation, forensics and competitive analysis
The National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C. utilizes
pyrolysis GC, among a variety of modern analytical methods, to
characterize paint components such as modern alkyd and acrylic
binders as well as synthetic organic pigments used in paintings in
its collection particularly for restoration purposes.22 Several other
applications relating to the analysis of paints and fingerprint
residues are provided as follows:
• Identification of recent changes in automotive paint
formulations.23
• Forensic discrimination of automotive paint samples.24
• FBI analysis of paint traces in hit-and-run investigations.25
• Thermal degradation analysis of amino acids in fingerprint
residues.26
 PERSONAL EXPERIENCES
In our own laboratory at International Specialty Products
(ISP), my team had the opportunity to develop several novel
applications of the pyrolysis GC methodology. Two of these
applications related to a key product of the company called
polyvinylpolypyrrolidone (PVPP), a highly crosslinked form of
polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) produced by the proliferous or popcorn
polymerization of the monomer vinyl pyrrolidone. PVPP has two
principal applications: as a pharmaceutical excipient used for oral
tablet disintegration and as a beverage clarifier used to remove
polyphenolic compounds from beer, wine, and fruit juices. Higher
molecular weight polyphenols have the tendency to form complexes
with specific proteins in such beverages under refrigeration
conditions leading to a lack of clarity known as chill haze. Most
beer and wine producers wish to produce a product that will not
form haze under cold storage conditions since clarity is considered
to be an esthetic requirement to consumers, particularly in the
United States.
Some years ago, ISP had approached a very significant U.S.
brewery, which had not been using PVPP to eliminate chill haze
to convince it to do so. The management of that company
explained to ISP that it was committed to adhering closely to the
German “reinheitsgebot,” or cleanliness law dating back to 1516
in Bavaria, which limited beer ingredients to water, barley, and
hops. No artificial ingredients were to be used. The company was
concerned that if PVPP, a synthetic material, was used to filter its
beer, that a small amount of residual, soluble PVP (although
completely innocuous) could potentially be transferred to the final
bottled product and be discovered by a competitor. The company
feared that such a discovery would enable the competitor to call
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attention to a violation of its “all natural”
claim. The marketing and technical staff of
ISP argued no avail that residual, soluble
PVP was not expected to be transferred to
the beer because it would have already been
washed out of the PVPP product during the
manufacturing process. No highly sensitive
and specific method for the determination of
soluble PVP in beer existed at that time.
The analytical team at ISP decided to try
to help break this stalemate by producing a
method capable of proving that trace levels of
PVP do not exist in beer treated with PVPP.
We chose to base this method upon pyrolysis
GC. We reasoned that the pyrolyzer would
decompose the PVP, if present, into characteristic
fragments which could then be separated by the
GC column and quantitated by a suitable GC
detector. These characteristic fragments are
2-pyrrolidone and the monomer, VP. We were
counting on the column (a non-polar, DB-1 type) to
separate these key fragments from those of the many
proteins present, which we anticipated would be the
most troublesome interferents. Our initial attempt
to use FID detection proved to be a failure due to the
overwhelming number of interfering hydrocarbon peaks
present in the resulting programs. However, this situation
was largely resolved by switching to an NPD detector. This
resulted in the complete elimination of all non-nitrogen
containing compounds in the pyrogram. (Note that hydro-
carbons were still being eluted from the column but were
no longer sensed by the alternate detector, thereby vastly
simplifying the resulting pyrograms.)
The pyrolysis conditions used to achieve this controlled
decomposition were a temperature of 850 °C and a heating time
of 20 seconds. An internal standard of polyvinylcaprolactam, a
polymer structurally similar to PVP, was employed in order to
improve the precision of the analysis. It was also necessary to
calibrate the system using beer samples with no initial level of
PVP which had been spiked with PVP at levels between 0 and 10
ppm. Additionally, tannic acid was used to remove some of the
protein interferents prior to the pyrolysis step. The net result was
a sensitive and specific method capable of quantitating PVP in
beer in the range of 1 to 10 ppm with a detection limit of 200
ppb. Six commercial beers were tested by this method of which
three were known to use PVPP in processing whereas the other
three were known to use an alternative beverage clarifier. No
PVP was detected in any of these beers.27 Unfortunately, ISP
was unable to leverage this analytical technique and the
resulting information to convince the brewery to switch to
the use of PVPP clarification technology.
Our laboratory’s second application of pyrolysis GC
to PVPP resulted from ISP’s need to better understand the
structure of this crosslinked product vis-à-vis competitive
January 2008
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Pyrolysis Gas Chromatography
materials. In particular, the technology team at ISP wished
to be able to relate the degree of crosslinking to a variety of
physico-chemical properties of the material. Crosslinked
polymers are inherently difficult to perform chemical
measurements upon. For such intractable materials, it may
be possible to obtain some structural information from such
techniques as IR spectroscopy and solid-state NMR
spectrometry. Both are rather limited in sensitivity. Classical
swelling methods applied to crosslinked polymers depend
upon knowledge of dimensional changes of a symmetrically
cut, single piece of material. Such methods cannot be
applied to irregularly shaped PVPP particles.
For this application, the pyrolysis temperature
was set at 685 °C for 20 seconds. The GC column used
was a DB-1301 type (siloxane with cyanosiloxane). In
this study we chose to use both a FID and MS detector;
this enabled the identification of many of the fragment
peaks appearing in the sample pyrograms. The technique
led to the identification of three crosslinking
compounds used in various commercial processes
and allowed their quantitation in the crosslinked
matrices (at levels typically between 1.7 and 2.5%
w/w).28 On the distaff side, the technique could
not distinguish crosslinker molecules which
functioned as true crosslinks due to two covalent
attachments versus those attached on one side
only. Therefore, it can measure crosslinker
content but not, strictly speaking, the number
of chemical crosslinks.
 FINAL REMARKS
You may wish to consider requesting
that your company’s analytical organization
have at least one pyrolysis unit in its GC
laboratory available to characterize intractable
large molecules such as crosslinked polymers.
You will be amazed at what you will be able
to learn about these systems.
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
This article is dedicated to Dr. Tom M.
H. Cheng, formerly of ISP, whose knowl-
edge, persistence, and effort allowed several
of the unique applications of pyrolysis GC
described in this article to be realized.
About the Author…
D
r. Edward Malawer received his Ph.D. in physical chemistry from New York University. He has over
thirty years of industrial analytical chemistry experience and recently served as Vice President in
charge of analytical R&D, quality assurance, product stewardship and technical information services
at International Specialty Products. Ed currently operates a consulting firm, Malawer & Associates Consulting, LLC,
specializing in laboratory and process analytical measurement solutions as well as cGMP pharmaceutical
auditing and quality system improvements. He can be contacted at emalawer@optonline.net.
January 2008
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 REFERENCES
1) J. Peuravuori and K. Pihlaja, Anal. Bioanal. Chem., 389, 475-491 (2007).
2) C. Wolf, M. Grayson, and D. Fanter, Anal. Chem., 52(3), 348A-358A (1980).
3) N. Goetz, P. Lasserre, and G. Kaba, in Cosmet. Sci. Technol. Ser., 4, 81-103
(1985), “Cosmetic Analysis: Selected Methods and Techniques”, ed. P. Boré
(Marcel Dekker).
4) W. Guo, T. Chuang, S. Huang, W. Leu, and S. Hsiao, J. Polym. Res., 14, 401-
409 (2007).
5) Y. Ito, H. Ohtani, S. Ueda, Y. Nakashima, and S. Tsuge, J. Polym. Sci., Pt. A
Polym. Chem., 32(2), 383-388 (2003).
6) C. Schwarzinger, A. Pfeifer, and H. Schmidt, Monatshefte für Chemie, 133,
1-7 (2002).
7) N. MacLeod, Chromatographia, 5, 516-519 (1972).
8) T. Wampler, C. Zawodny, and K. Jansson, Amer. Lab., 39(6), 16-19 (2007).
9) F. Wang, J. Green, and B. Gerhart, Anal. Chem., 68(15), 2477-2481 (1996).
10) M. Ezrin and G. Lavigne, ANTEC, 2046-2050 (2002).
11) M. Hartzell-Lawson and Y. Hsieh, Textile. Res. J., 70(9), 810-819 (2000).
12) E. Gmahl and W. Ruess, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 15, 77-81 (1993).
13) M. Hida, S. Okuyama, T. Mitsui, Y. Minami, and Y. Fujimura, Chromatographia,
38(7/8), 436-440 (1994).
14) CDS Analytical, Inc., Oxford, PA; application briefs.
15) T. Munson and J. Vick, J. Anal. Appl. Pyrolysis, 8, 493-501 (1985).
16) J. Challinor, J. Anal. Appl. Pyrolysis, 37, 185-197 (1996).
17) N. Bertram, J. Anal. Appl. Pyrolysis, 75, 194-199 (2006).
18) R. Steinbrecht and B. Stankiewicz, J. Insect Physiol., 45, 785-790 (1999).
19) S. Choi, M. Kim, and H. Inoue, J. Anal. Appl. Pyrolysis, 32, 127-136 (1995).
20) J. Suuronen, I. Pitkänen, H. Halttunen, and R. Moilanen, J. Therm. Anal.
Calorim., 69, 359-369 (2002).
21) C. Smith, S. Morgan, C. Parks, A. Fox, and D. Pritchard, Anal. Chem., 59,
1410 (1987).
22) L. Ember, C & E News, 51-59 (2001-July 30th); http://www.nga.gov/
resources/scienceresearch/glossary.shtm.
23) T. Wampler, G. Bishea, and W. Simonsick, J. Anal. Appl. Pyrolysis, 40,
79-89 (1997).
24) B. Kochanowski and S. Morgan, J. Chromatogr. Sci., 38, 100-108 (2000).
25) (Author unknown), JCT Coatings Tech., 3(6), 38-39 (2006).
26) A. Richmond-Aylor, S. Bell, P. Callery, and K. Morris, J. Forensic Sci., 52(2),
380-382 (2007).
27) T.M.H. Cheng and E.G. Malawer, “Confirmation by Pyrolysis-Gas
Chromatography of the Absence of Polyvinylpyrrolidone in Beer Treated with
Cross-linked Polyvinylpyrrolidone,” J. Am. Soc. Brew. Chem., 54(2), 85-90 (1996).
28) T.M.H. Cheng and E.G. Malawer, “Identification and Determination
of Crosslinkers in Crosslinked Poly(vinylpyrrolidone) by Pyrolysis-Gas
Chromatography/Mass Spectrometry,” Anal. Chem., 71(2), 468-475 (1999).
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Letter from the Editor …Cosmetiscope Editor Roger McMullen

TRIVIA QUESTION: The cytokines are an

I
n the November issue of the Cosmetiscope, we asked
the following trivia question:
TRIVIA QUESTION: Urea was the subject of an article
written by Paul Thau that was published in the January
edition of the Cosmetiscope. It is one example of a
chemical that can act as a “cage” to entrap another
chemical. Compounds that are able to form such structures
are also referred to as ______________.
ANSWER: Clathrates
On November 30th all correct submissions were
placed into a hat and two winners were drawn. There
were eleven correct responses received by the Cosmeticope
editorial office. The two winners are Peter Foltis of L’Oréal
and Eduardo Heidelberg of Pfizer. Peter and Eduardo each
received a $75 gift certificate to attend a performance and
dinner at the Stress Factory Comedy Club on Church
Street in New Brunswick, NJ. Congratulations to both of
you and many thanks to everyone that participated. This
month we have another trivia question.
important class of compounds that serve
as intercellular messengers allowing cells
to communicate with each other. They are
proteins and peptides, which can be excreted
by one cell and bind to a surface receptor
(located at the cell membrane) on another cell,
thus producing a chemical signal to upregulate
(synthesize) or downregulate a molecule that
may be needed for a given biological process.
These processes form the basis of immunological
function and skin cells, such as fibroblasts and
keratinocytes, are capable of excreting and receiving
such signals. For this month’s question please name three
common cytokine compounds found in skin.
Send your response to: roger.mcmullen@gmail.com
Please, only send your answer in the message. On
January 20th all correct submissions will be placed into a
hat and two winners will be drawn. This month’s prize will
be a $50 gift for each winner.
Happy New Year!

Obituaries
Phoebe R. Wolff (Wife of Stephen Wolff, Emirutus Member-New York Chapter)

P
hoebe R. Wolff (“Hughie”), age 78 of the Packanack Lake area of Wayne, slipped away to join the angels on
Wednesday evening, November 14, 2007, at home. Her passing was peaceful and with the loving affection
of her husband Stephen who was constantly at her side. Phoebe married Ensign Stephen J. Wolff Jr. in
December of 1952 and they had fifty-five years of “fulfilling and loving” marriage together. Stephen Wolff (AKA The
Captain) has been a member and good friend to numerous SCC members for many years.

Louis B. Frischling (Emirutus Member-Long Island Chapter)

O
n December 9, 2007. Beloved husband of Marilyn. Cherished father of Melissa, Elisa, and Craig. Father-in-law of Janet.
Father-in-law to be to Marvin. Loving grandfather of Dani, Robbie, Ariel, Julia, and Elana. Brother of Reggie and Saul.
Brother-in-law of Joan and Christine. Adored uncle, nephew, cousin, and friend. Leader, visionary, and co-founder of Lipo
Chemicals, Inc. and affiliated companies worldwide. Lou was an innovator and respected entrepreneur who touched the lives of
many with his creativity and passion. In Lou's memory contributions may be made to the Multiple Myeloma Research Foundation
(www.multiplemyeloma.org).

Personal Care Products Council

T
he Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association is now the Personal Care Products
Council. Our name has changed, but our mission remains stronger than ever: To enable
our members to continue to develop and sell the safe, quality, and innovative cosmetic
and personal care products that help consumers live better, healthier lives. We will continue
to offer quality services, products, and information on scientific, regulatory, and legislative
developments in our industry.
The Personal Care Products Council (Formerly CTFA)
1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington D.C. 20036-4702
Telephone: (202) 331-1770 • Fax: (202) 331-1969
More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org.

January 2008
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Employment Opportunities
Employment ads should be sent to…
Tim Gillece • Tel: (973) 628-3209 • E-Mail: tgillece@yahoo.com
You may contact National SCC at (212) 668-1500 for a list of employment opportunities.
Employment listings published in the Cosmetiscope are abridged due to space limitations.
Received 12-01-07
 RESEARCH CHEMISTS
LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS, INC. (formerly Noveon),
a subsidiary of The Lubrizol Corporation, has an immediate need
for several Research Chemists in its Noveon Consumer Specialties
business.
• Research Chemist, Hair & Skin Applications
Requirements include: Bachelor's degree in chemistry, chemical
engineering, or related field; minimum of 5 years experience
working in hair and skin applications (gels, emulsions, surfactant
systems); strong knowledge of personal care formulations
through product development experience on the bench and
contact with product manufacturers or key raw material
suppliers. Previous supervisory experience is a plus. This
position is located in Brecksville, Ohio.
• Research Chemist, Hair Conditioning
Requirements include a Bachelor’s degree in chemistry,
chemical engineering, or related field with a minimum of
5 years experience in industrial formulating and hair care
applications (specifically hair conditioning). This position
is located in Piscataway, New Jersey.
• Research Chemist, Hair Conditioning
Requirements include: Bachelor's degree in chemistry,
chemical engineering, or related field; minimum of 5
years experience in industrial formulating; experience
working in hair care applications (specifically hair
conditioning). This position is located in Piscataway,
New Jersey.
• Research Chemist, Hair Fixatives
Requirements include: Bachelor's degree in chemistry,
chemical engineering, or related field; minimum
of 5 years experience working in personal care
applications, specifically hair care—hair styling and
hair fixatives (gels, mousses, sprays). Previous
supervisory experience a plus. This position is located
in Piscataway, New Jersey.
For prompt, confidential consideration, apply
now at www.lubrizol.jobs.
______________________________________________________________________________________________
Received 11-21-07
 NORTHEAST SALES ACCOUNT MANAGER
TRI-K INDUSTRIES, INC. / KEMIRA has an
opening for a full-time Account Manager based
out of the NJ area to call on cosmetic accounts,
predominantly in the Mid-Atlantic / New England
states with occasional travel to accounts in Eastern
Canada. Responsibilities will include servicing
existing accounts in addition to seeking out
prospective new accounts. This is a salaried position
with an added incentive program and an excellent
benefits package.
A B.S. in Chemistry or related field and two to
three years experience in personal care ingredients
January 2008
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sales is required.
Please forward your résumé and salary requirements to:
Rita Simonian, Human Resources Manager
TRI-K Industries, Inc. / Kemira
151 Veterans Drive, Northvale, NJ 07647-0128
Fax: (201) 750-9785
E-mail: rita@tri-k.com
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Received 11-19-07
 CHEMIST
KOLMAR LABORATORIES, INC. in Port Jervis, NY is seeking
a chemist to strengthen our R&D department to meet the future
projected growth of our Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical markets. The
ideal candidate will be responsible for developing formulations of
new products to meet customer and/or marketing specifications.
The ideal candidate must possess a 4 year science degree,
chemistry or biology, and 2-4 years experience in a cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical environment.
Please send résumé and salary history to bmatos@kolmar.com;
or mail to:
William Matos, Jr., PHR
Director of Human Resources
Kolmar Laboratories, Inc.
20 West King Street, Port Jervis, NY 12771
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Received 11-18-07
 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT CHEMIST II
ANDORA, INC. is seeking a highly motivated individual with
the ability to formulate topical skin care and/or hair care products.
The ideal candidate will have a B.S. / M.S. in chemistry, pharmacy,
chemical engineering, or related life/health field and at least 4 years
of relevant industry experience. Formulation experience in multiple
product forms, such as creams, lotions, waxes, non-aerosol, and
aerosol sprays is desired, but not required. Overall strong technical
understanding of the Personal Care/OTC Industry with a demonstrated
understanding of requirements to bring products from concept
to launch, along with technical knowledge of process scale-up
challenges and QC specification development, is also a plus.
Please submit résumé and salary history to:
Eric Spengler by e-mail at espengler@andora-inc.com.
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Received 11-15-07
 TECHNICAL POSITION-COSMETIC/FOOD COLOR
IFC SOLUTIONS / INTERNATIONAL FOODCRAFT CORPORATION
in Union County, NJ is seeking an experienced, hands-on technical
individual to support the color products we manufacture for the
cosmetic and food industries.
Requirements include color formulating and/or color matching,
and a degree in either chemistry, cosmetic science, or food science.
QC/QA experience is a plus.
Please e-mail your salary requirements, résumé, and a detailed
cover letter to:
colorjob@mindspring.com.
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Received 11-04-07 experience with audits. Minimum education

 APPLICATIONS SCIENTIST and TECHNICAL DIRECTOR requirements are a B.A. or B.S. in Chemistry
PRESPERSE, LLC is looking to fill two positions at their Somerset, NJ or related field.
facility. • Manager, Research and Development
• Applications Scientist Responsibilities include managing the
The ideal candidate would have 10-15 years of experience in the cosmetic daily operations of the R&D group, guiding
field, hands on experience in skin care, hair care, and color cosmetics formulators on development projects, meeting
formulating; a bachelor's degree in a related science; and a desire to learn with clients in a technical support role,
and teach others about our range of raw materials. researching and introducing new ingredient
• Technical Director technologies, and working with operations to
Duties include helping lead the company in fulfilling its goal of bringing insure the efficient transfer of formulations to
exciting new technologies and raw materials to the cosmetic market. production. Candidate should have a minimum
The ideal candidate should have 20 years of experience in the cosmetic of 5-7 years formulation experience and 3-5
or personal care field, management experience, a thorough understanding years in a managerial role. Minimum education
of cosmetic chemistry, and a desire to present our technologies directly to requirements are a B.A. or B.S. in Chemistry or
customers through visits and trade shows. related field.
Please e-mail résumé, including salary requirements, to: • Director, Technical Services
dlaba@presperse.com; Duties include managing the daily operations
or mail to: of both the Quality Unit and Research & Development
Dennis Laba, Director of Technical Marketing Group. The candidate should have a minimum of
Presperse, Inc. 10 years experience with at least 3-5 years in an
635 Pierce Street, Somerset, NJ 08852 executive role, including experience in a contract
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ manufacturing environment with strong knowledge
Received 11-02-07 in both Quality Operations (including Compliance-
 SALES PROFESSIONAL cGMP-audits) and Development. The minimum
DKSH North America is expanding its presence in North America and education requirements are a B.A. or B.S. in Chemistry
is looking for a sales professional to join our team. or related field. Please direct e-mail responses to:
The qualified candidate will be responsible for developing customer ldelaura@junejacobslabs.com.
relationships at selected key accounts on the East Coast, and giving product All responses should include résumé and salary requirements.
presentations and interacting with our suppliers. Additionally, the person _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

must understand market trends and customers needs with the ultimate goal Received 10-26-07
of generating new business.  BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER and PRODUCT
The ideal candidate will have 1-3 years of sales experience in the DEVELOPMENT SCIENTIST – MICRO-ENCAPSULATION
cosmetic industry and a technical degree. APPLETON, headquartered in Appleton, WI, has two open
Please e-mail résumé and salary requirements to: positions:
tony.ansaldi@dksh.com. • Business Development Manager
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ The Business Development Manager will be responsible for
Received 10-30-07 market analysis and identification of new business opportunities
 KEY ACCOUNT TECHNICAL SALES to optimize revenues from encapsulation technology as well as
BIOSIL TECHNOLOGIES, INC. is seeking a Technical Sales Repre- the development of effective relationships with new and existing
sentative. The successful candidate will have a degree in Chemistry or partners to expand sales and mine new opportunities.
Biology plus 1-3 years sales experience in an advanced technical environment. To qualify you will need an M.B.A., or degree in related
Please send résumé and salary history to: discipline, with 7+ years experience in market development, sales,
Biosil Technologies, Inc. and project management. For more information and to apply for
510 East 31st Street, Paterson, New Jersey 07504 this opportunity, please visit our website (www.appletonideas.com)
(973) 684-2000 and follow the career opportunity link to position posting #6321.
info@biosiltech.com • Product Development Scientist – Micro-Encapsulation
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ The successful candidate will be responsible for rapid development
Received 10-30-07 of micro-encapsulated products to meet customer requirements
 DIRECTOR, QUALITY CONTROL – MANAGER, RESEARCH AND and independently apply scientific principles and practices in the
DEVELOPMENT – DIRECTOR, TECHNICAL SERVICES area of encapsulation in support of business objectives, while
JUNE JACOBS LABS, a contract manufacturer and skincare company, meeting customer needs and creating sustainable advantage in
is seeking up to three highly-qualified individuals at our Moonachie, NJ the marketplace.
facility. To qualify you will need an advanced degree in chemistry
• Director, Quality Control or related field with focus on micro-encapsulation research and
Responsibilities will include overseeing QC technicians in bulk and additional work experience in micro-encapsulation research,
finished goods area, assisting with specification updates, auditing daily demonstrating solid understanding of polymer chemistry and
records, providing outside clients/vendors with appropriate documentation methodology. For more information and to apply for this
and certificates, and supporting OTC stability program. Experience with opportunity, please visit our website (www.appletonideas.com)
packaging is a plus. Candidate should have a minimum of 3-5 years and follow the career opportunity link to position posting
experience in managing a QC laboratory, a strong background in cGMP, and #6501.

January 2008
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2008 SCC Events Calendar

• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org
• For National SCC information: www.scconline.org
January 9 NYSCC Monthly Meeting, Hyatt Regency, New Brunswick, NJ.
Jan. 29 - Feb. 2 The Soap and Detergent Association Annual Meeting, Boca Raton Hotel & Club,
Boca Raton, FL. More info: www.cleaning101.com.
February 6 NYSCC Monthly Meeting, Seasons Westwood in Washington Twp, NJ.
February (TBD) NYSCC & LISCC Ski Trip, Windham Mountain, NY.
February 10-15 Principles and Practice of Cosmetic Science, Wessex Hotel, West Cliff Road,
Bournemouth, UK. More info: www.scs.org.uk.
February 11-12 Cosmeceuticals Summit 2008, San Diego, CA.
More info: www.intertechpira.com/regulations.
February 26-29 Personal Care Products Council 2008 Annual Meeting, Boca Raton Resort & Club,
Boca Raton, FL.
February 20-21 Skin Summit, Philadelphia, PA. More info: www.pharmedassociates.com.
March 4-5 HBA Spring Conference, Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY.
March 5 NYSCC Monthly Meeting, Valley Regency, Clifton, NJ.
March 11-12 Expert Meeting on Aerosol Innovation, Paris, France.
More info: www.aerosol-forum.com.
April (TBD) NYSCC Spring Seminar.
April 15-18 In-Cosmetics 2008, Amsterdam, The Netherlands.
May 7-10 1st Joint International Meeting of the International Society for Biophysics and Imaging
of the Skin (ISBS) and the International Society for Digital Imaging of Skin (ISDS),
Seoul, Korea. More info: www.non-invasive2008.org.
May 13-14 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, Raritan Center, Edison, NJ.
May 14-17 International Investigative Dermatology, Kyoto, Japan. The Fifth Joint Meeting of the
European Society for Dermatological Research (ESDR), the Japanese Society for
Investigative Dermatology (JSID), and the Society for Investigative Dermatology (SID).
More info: iid2008.org.
June 5-6 SCC Annual Scientific Seminar, Lake Buena Vista, FL.
June 10-11 The Anti-Aging Skin Care Conference, The Royal College of Physicians, London.
More info: www.antiageingconference.com.
June 22-25 7th World Surfactants Congress, Palais des Congrés, Paris.
June 24-26 Household & Cosmèticos, São Paulo, Brazil. More info: www.freedom.inf.br.
July (TBD) NYSCC Golf Outing.
September (TBD) NYSCC Annual Fishing Trip.
Septermber 9-11 HBA Global Exposition & Education Conference, Jacob K. Javits Convention Center,
New York, NY.
September 15-16 TRI Princeton, Conference on Applied Hair Science, Princeton, NJ.
October 5-8 Beyond Beauty 2008, Paris Nord Villepinte, Paris, France.
More info: www.beyondbeautyparis.com.
October 6-9 25th IFSCC Congress, Barcelona, Spain.
October (TBD) NYSCC Fall Seminar, Fairleigh Dickinson University, Teaneck, NJ.
November 4-6 In-Cosmetics Asia, Bangkok, Thailand. More info: www.in-cosmeticsasia.com.
November 12-14 Cosmoprof Asia, Hong Kong. More info: www.cosmoprof-asia.com.
December 11-12 SCC 2008 Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase, New York Hilton,
New York, NY.

January 2008