VENEZUELAN

Origins

Venezuelan
VENEZUELAN ORIGINS

venezuelan origins

enezuela is to cocoa as
Bordeaux is to wine. It
is one of the most famous
regions in the world for
growing chocolate. It is also
the region where the cocoa
beans for some of the worlds
best chocolate is grown, for
instance, Amedeis single
plantation chocolate from
the famous Chuao cacao
(a specific type of Criollo).
Michel Cluizels Conception
66% dark chocolate, made
from the highly regarded
Carenero Trinitario cacao,
is another example, as well
as Valrhonas Palmira 64%
dark chocolate made from
Criollo cacao of the Palmira
plantation in Western
Venezuela.
The flavour of chocolate is often
unique, and does not only depend
on the type of the bean - there are
big differences between cacao
grown in different regions even if
they come from the same type of
cacao tree. This is why chocolate
tasting is so interesting. Cacao can
grow in a belt of subtropical and
tropical countries centred on the
equator. Although the tropical soil
and climate allows for growth of

chocolatiers from
around the world
influencing the
quality and creation
of chocolates in our
market. The quality
is improving and
because of this there
are only more good
things to come.

ABOVE: Black Gold Chocolates

these trees, cacao coming from a

single plantation or a vintage may
be different from the other.
For Sydney-based chocolate maker
and owner of Black Gold Cacao,
Frank Velasquez, the meticulous
growing, sourcing, importing
and creation of his single origin
Venezuelan chocolate range is
an exciting adventure. Frank has
broken new ground in the Australian
chocolate industry along with a
handful of chefs, chocolatiers and
industry specialists.
Australians are taking a greater
interest in the source and the type
of cacao that they use in their
products. There are locally based

This all points to

exciting times in the
chocolate industry
as Australians are
becoming more informed they
are developing a taste for special
origin chocolates. In Australia we
have access to a large selection of
boutique chocolate makers, who all
make an effort providing information
describing their craft chocolate bars,
not only by the ingredients, but also
including the origin of the bean.
The flavour profile is described not
unlike the way a sommelier defines
the tastes of wine - notes of fruits,
spices, floral or earthy profiles define
the chocolate bars characteristics.
Some boutique chocolate makers
also describe the cocoa variety and
even the conching time (the process
that develops the smooth texture
and releases the flavour aromas of

CHOCOLATE FROM THE CITY OF THE MASTERS

OF
CACAO
By Elaine Young
Theobroma Cacao, the scientific name for the cocoa tree, comes
in three different cultivars or grand cocoa varieties: the rare
Criollo, the sturdy Trinitario and the biological hybrid of both,
the Forastero. What grows from these fairly small trees is the
cacao pod: an oval shaped fruit whose colour ranges from bright
yellow and carnelian orange or red to sometimes even purple.
Its skin is thick and firm, requiring a sharp tool (like a machete)
to crack it open. Inside the shell, highly aromatic cocoa beans
are encased in juicy sweet white pulp. This is the fruit that
chocolate comes from.
TOP LEFT: Frank at work
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ABOVE: The cacao tree in Venezuela

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Venezuelan

VENEZUELAN

venezuelan origins

Origins

Origins

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continued

chocolate by kneading them with

rollers kept at warm temperatures
for a prolonged period of time).
Frank describes the Australian
consumer as one that has great
taste and is willing to search for
premium quality: It wouldnt be
a surprise if the movement of the
chocolate industry would liken it
to where we are now with coffee.
Australia, especially Melbourne
and its coffee culture, has been
recognised by both locals and
tourists as having the best coffee
in the world. Frank was previously
in the coffee importing business
before he moved to chocolate and

sees some parallels between the

two. Eventually chocolate may be
heading that way with our chocolate
makers, chocolatiers, pastry chefs
and even baristas striving for
excellence and pushing boundaries
creating a selection of different
chocolate experiences for the
Australian market.
Frank grew up on a farm that had
been in the family since 1930, where
traditions of cultivating, harvesting
and preparing cacao techniques
were passed on from generation
to generation. Franks mother was
his business mentor, guiding him
into the labyrinth of the trade. Most

ABOVE: Cacao from Yaguaraparo

BELOW: Criollo Cacao Beans From Hacienda Yaguaraparo

importantly, she taught him about

the value of being able to share his
passion with his employees, treating
them fairly and bringing out the best
in them. She was very organised
and it is from his mother that Frank
learned discipline. His father, his
greatest source of strength and
energy, is one of his inspirations
and the reason behind the early
beginnings of Black Gold Cacao.
Roughly four years ago when
Frank was on a vacation on their
farm in the foothills of the Andes
at Yaguaraparo in Venezuela, his
father mentioned bringing cocoa
to Australia. The family have been
providing beans to European
chocolate makers for years already,
so Australia seemed like a logical
move. Frank started by importing
40 kilos of cocoa beans to his
home in Sydney. It was a confident
and positive move, while being
a challenging endeavour. Franks
passion to succeed was high,
but maturity and knowledge of
the market was at that time quite
young. Luckily, Franks infectious
positive energy and passion shines
through the moment he speaks of
chocolate, where he describes not
just the bean but where it grows, the
environment, even the richness of
the soil where the cacao trees thrive.
It did not take long for his effort to
bear fruit. He is now importing tons
of cacao beans, sending containers
to Australia from the family farm.
Franks approach to his business
operation has its roots focused
on growing and sourcing
the best cacao beans while
retaining the most natural and
traditional methods of growing
and processing. A dense, green
jungle with very tall trees and
ancient ecosystem surround the

ABOVE: Cacao beans and cacao powder

RIGHT: Frank checking the cacao pod during picking

plantation at Yaguaraparo, otherwise

known as the City of the Masters of
Cacao. Its natural beauty has been
preserved with a rich, fertile soil due
to the remnants of millions of years of
Amazonian jungle.
The area has barely been touched by
industrialisation and its clean natural
beauty has been preserved. The
environment is tropical with a good
balance of rainfall and sunshine, and
the temperature is consistently warm:
the perfect growing conditions for the
cocoa tree. The environment and the
richness of the area is what allows
Frank and his family to grow their
cocoa trees using organic methods.
Yaguaraparo is close to the ocean
with a small town that provides the
locals with their daily essentials. Life is
simple, but Frank describes the people
working with chocolate as always
being happy. Donkeys still walk the
streets in the small towns and rows of
huge mango trees abound. This small
city is home to the cocoa farmers and
fishermen both living and working in
the area.
The farmers harvest cocoa and use
a machete carefully when picking the
pods. Picking the fruit is undertaken
carefully to avoid damaging the pods,
leaves, branches or the tree trunk as
wounds will provide entry for fungi and
insects. Only pods that are perfectly
ripe carry ideal beans that can be
made into chocolate. The pods are
cracked open with a machete, with the
beans being removed from the pods
and then the fermentation process
is started. Fermentation triggers a

series of chemical
reactions that sets
the essential flavour
precursor prior
to bean roasting
eventually creating
the unique flavour
of a particular
chocolate.
The fermentation
for chocolate is
similar in importance
to fermentation in
winemaking, and follows a similar
process. The cocoa pulp is rich in
sugars and high in acidity. These are
ideal conditions for the development of
certain microorganisms.
It is these microorganisms that
break down the pulp, turning the
pulp into liquid by converting sugars
into alcohol. All of these processes
contribute to the development of
different bacteria that triggers natural
chemical reactions in the beans.
The bitterness is reduced and the
chocolate flavour and aromas develop.
Franks family ferments and roasts
their cacao beans prior to exporting
around the world.
It is a very natural co-existence with
the farmers and the land. This coexistence is at the core of Black Gold
Cocoas ethos to provide quality
raw cacao and cacao products to
chocolate connoisseurs, delivering
a delicious chocolate experience
to customers whilst keeping trade
fair and beneficial for all. Black Gold
Cacao products, such as their drinking
chocolate powder, raw cacao, cacao

nibs, cacao butter, cacao liquor and

chocolate couverture has a sweet,
pleasantly bitter, rounded, earthy, fullbodied and slightly fruity flavour.
Here in Australia, Frank has been
involved with the government in
growing cocoa trees in Queensland.
He believes in caring for the land,
giving back to the earth and not just
taking from it. He supports and works
with farmers in North Queensland,
providing them with cocoa beans to
grow and cultivate. Frank is a lover
of nature and you will find him on his
board surfing the ocean whenever he
isnt around chocolate.
Elaine is a Consultant Pastry Chef/
Chocolatier, who has worked with food
companies helping them to create
an engaging connection with their
consumers through professional and
expert advice, recipe development,
demonstrations and informational
content. She offers services in training
and menu design for restaurants and
hotels needing creative input in pastry
and chocolate.

www.ediblejourneys.com.au
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