R

elpe

1enu-

en

\11

\1\

Re't.1urant Menus

Xt'

Acknowledgments

Xt'll

Preface

XIX

The Chef as Artist

Meet Your Medium

23

Compoing Flavors

37

Compo~ing a Dish

61

Why Food Matches?

87

Food ~1atche~ Made in Heaven

~ea'ioning Matche . . Made m Heaven

Composing a Menu

223

Common Accompaniment' to Entrees

Evolvmg a Cuisine

196

260

289

The Evolution of Leading Chef' CUismes

De~ert Island lists

323

Culinary Art as Communion

Re (lurec,

399

BIOgraphies of Chefs

Index

403

409

Ahour the Authors

425

391

307

B\ krm and heauty, we're not referring strictly to Food IS very much theater
[he IDL.leasmdv popular, and in some cases misguided, - Jam. Be" c;
emphals that Sl'me chefs have placed on the visual presentation of food. In
jetermll1U1g what form a dish will take, chefs have the opportunity to conve\ their own sense of beauty with every decision they make about a dish,
from the selection of ingredients and their pairing with other ingredients, to
Its cookmg techniques, to its presentation on a plate, to its order of presentation on a menu.
Just as philosophers have suggested that art is "about" something, and
conveys feelings toward that subject matter, so does Alice Waters tell us that
"Being a really good cook has to do with having a point of view."
Throughout history, great culinarians have likened the culinary arts
to arts ranging from architecture to painting to theatre. The press has even
used artistic analogies when describing particular chefs. For example, Los
Angeles Times food writer Charles Perry once likened chef Joachim
Splichal to the late rock musician Jimi Hendrix, who was known for his

artistic daring.
"Cooking is indeed an artistry,"
says Bradley Ogden. "It's a form
of creativity and expression, especially the more defined you become with
your cuisine. The direction you decide to take It In-your per~onal styleusually depends on your background and your education. I grew up in
Michigan, and my cuisine i more traightforward Amencan. Unheknownst
to me, I wa developing a palate back when I wa five or IX year old, helng
reared on organic blackberrie and wall-eyed pike"
"We are certainly associated With the art," Gray Curnonsky's belief that "La cuisine! Thats when
Kunz agrees. "There's no question ahout that. But the thmgs taste /Ike themselves IS none other than
affiltatlon hide~ an enormou am unt of hard work. the artist's precept. "Respect your medium
This work I very stressful-hoth phy ically and on the transposed Into the world of food.
mind. What helps the chef is the 'Imph: de~lre to cre- -RrchCi'd 0 ey
ate di he that are con tandy on a very hlf~h le\'el. It' a ,hame you c, n't put
me of them on canvas!"
Wayne 1 1 i .h, who once tudled architecture, POint- out that
"Architecture In the Middle Age wa~ the mother of the art. In or,ler to he
<I practltloner, you had to he a ~culptor, cI p. mter, and a mll Icwn. It \\,h (l
fI.:4Ulrement that you needed to m.hter the e three enJeav r., hef, re you
could bUild. And I've always thou~ht th.n the culm 1) arr \\ ere .10 cxtcntton
o two of th c. Careme y, a frustrated rchlrcct who con [rueted edible
pI ce m nt~ . I e [ha the relatl n hIp eXI t -<: kme (or th publtc I
CI) VI U 1dl clpime "

What Leading Chefs Think

by customers, food critics, and the culinary community . How hd edch of th

three considerations played a role m the perception of the Culmary art! e
ile
WI hd . thhe fmaJOrity of
ea mg c e s we Inter_
viewed agree on the potential for artistry within the culinary expenence, a
few express hesitations about the use of the term. This is perhaps not Surpris_
ing, given that chefs have evolved from a profeSSion historically viewed as
domestic labor into one that now boasts celebrity chef-restaurate urs.
Throughout this transformation, they have largely maintained a professional
spirit of modesty and service to the customer, and some chefs still feel uncom_
fortable with the elitist connotations of calling their profession an art.
Michael Romano is one leading chef who has expressed some discomfort With the comparison of food to art. "I think there's a danger of getting too
much into the idea that 'I am an artist.' For myself, I like to be in touch with
Cooking is an art that needs to evolve and what I enjoy cooking, and what my customers enjoy
change on the basis of its methods and materi- eating," he says. "It's not just 'This is my artistic creals. its organization-and even of the whole ation-take It or leave it.' A restaurant is about nur.
concept of the role of the chef
turmg, about saying, 'Welcome to my home.' It's an
-Pierre TWlsgros mteractive proces~ m which you provide your guests
with something they're gomg to mgest, going to put in their bodies. It's a very
intimate thinu, and they ~hould have a ilY in it. Chefs shou ld be flexible."
Am,try abo carne_ With it the connotation of originality. However, it
took years before chef. dared defy cla"ical tradition to begin experimenting
with their own dt-he. The French chef~ who pioneered nou~'elle cuisine in the
1960" repre emed a ~Iant ,tep wwarJ bringing the culinary wl)r1d into its
own. Once creativity \\'a unlea~hed m French and, subsequently and espeCially, American kitchen~ m the la,t few decade, there was no turning back.
"Before nOlH'elle cuisine hit
America, there was not th is 'interpreti\'e' ,pirit. What we learned in ~chool,
and what all great restaurant Jid, wa
dlshe like duck a l'oranRt' and \"eal
car. You made the clas~ic saUl.:e'-Y~'U
wouldn't ever have made an or.lOge hoilandai e sauce," say~ Chri ~ chle lO!!e r
"But nouvelle cuisine openeJ cooking up
to interpretation. A I ng a yOll ru k to
the fundamental prinCIple of good food,
then y u "ere allowed to expenment
And (ha('s what I think pened c Ion

Chefs and Professional Cooking

6
/I

up til thl ountry, because it allowed young people to come to it and we

Jldn't h.w e to do the same junk that went on before us.
"I 'owelle cUIsine was a movement in France that was a rededication to
the b.l I": fundamentals of good food. The chefs said, 'No more sloppinesswe're not going to thicken sauces so much because what the thickening does
IS cover up lack of flavor with texture. We're going to really be careful with
our vegetables.' There was a little bit of Japanese aesthetic in there, too-smaller portions, clearer flavors. They said, 'We're not going to be so concerned about following the classics. We're going to take all the best cooking
fundamentals out of the classics, and as long as we stick to those, that's what's
,n
Important.
Chefs have since embraced the opportunity to be creative with, and
expressive through, food, and American chefs-widely considered to be the
most innovative in the world-are now viewed as world class. Just as the
artistic community has over time shifted its center from Paris to New York
City, so has the culinary community.
Lydia Shire cites the intense "seriousness among American chefs" as evidence that the profession is moving to new levels of respectability and accomplishment. "American chefs have really Jumped ahead in the food world," notes

ARE THERE THREE CATEGORIE OF CHEFS?

Trade

Craft

AT(

Category

"BurgerFlippers"

"Accomph hed
Chcf ..

"Culinary
Ani.,t,"

Customer Goal

Survival

Enjoyment

Entertainment

Chef's Intention

FiliI
Feed

-:an,f'iI
Please

Tran cenJ/
Tranport

Off- BroaJway
Theatre Ticket

BroaJ\\IlY

Price of Lunch
Who Detennines
Meal

Cu,wmer
("Have It
Your Wa\")

Cbef' Primary
Repertoire

Hamburger5

Number of
ens Affected
u

tomer

Lea~e

a 'ng

""m full."

Cu tomer/Chef

Orehe tTO Ticker

Chef
(Ta ring Menu)
Chef'. own 01 he

"That wa dehclou."

"Llft

wonderful."

ShIre, "and are conking some of

the most exciting food in the
world todav."
Yet not all American chefs
are culmary artists. We envision
chefs as falling into one of three
categories along a continuum
(see chart on page 7). For the
vast majority of America's three
million-plus chefs and cooks,
this is a trade, typically defined
as "skilled work." We'd place the majority of (but perhaps not all) "burgerflippers" into thi category. \Vhile all professional cher by definition conicier cooking to be their trade, there are some who also consider it a craft.
As "ktll is developed with care and experience, and the talent for preparing
deliclou food on a consistent basis is honed, "ome chefs elevate cooking to
a craft. typically defined a, "an occupatil1n requinng special skill or art."
And still other chef may emhrace both definitions while alSl) seeing the
potential for arti trvat the hlghe t pr ctlce l t their pfllfesinn. At this level,
in rare but unfor!!ett ble In-tance , YOLI c. n iind chef" whose culinary ~kill.
combmed with unu uallma0tndtlOn an I cre,lt!vtty, truly elevates their profe "ion to an art. One' level
Lompct n e .111 I intention ,h d chef lar~d\'
de term me \\ h re n fall on the continuum.

Cooking as a Trade

\Vhethcr or not they thern~e1\'es are viewed

that \\ely I) other, certain leading chet~

preter to \'le\\ c km
a tr de.
"In tf) m to un er mnd what .In I , and wh, t a craft is, and what ,j
trade is, I've ah\a argued that I don't thmk co kmg houll be col1'llJereJ
an art, for argument' . ke," ay Chn chle mger. "The rea,,( n I ay th,I[ I
becau e I thmk It' a kill that gro\\ out f cwal human need-everyboll~
need to cook. Pe pIe don't need to create art; it' a choice that people m.tke.
"What' at the heart of cooking for me i that it' a profe IOn. It
never omethmg that I chose in order to expre m} elf creatively. I c,m ee
other people argumg that it i , but to me it' more vi ccral and immcJI,lte,
and it importance and mean 109 Ite in area other than ani tic exprtS Ion .
The art or the magic that' involved 10 food I not 0 much 10 it rrepar ItlOn, but 10 eating WIth the people you eat It with, The rna IC I the mealttme.
"In the begmntng of Escoffler' Ma CUISIne h write that If the rn m
pnnclple 10 cook 109, the maIO one I to make the per n Whl m ~ )IJ r n

"d

hlPP ". I alway' read that to mean that, whatever we are , we're profeslog'

.tOn al .,-and If we serve food and someone doesn't like it, whether we or the

. . 'c'-. think it's the grandest creation, if we don't please the customer, then
cntl
we\'e faded. I don't think artists can fail like that."

C ft

Some leading chefs admit that cooking could

Cooking as a ra
arguably be called either an art or a craft.
Jimmy Schmidt says, "I think it's safer to call it a craft. To capture the
impreSSion or the dynamics of a certain mood or feeling is a lot tougher in
food than it is in other media. But that doesn't mean that it's not creative."
Other chefs believe that it starts out as a craft. "Cooking is a craft first,"
says Terrance Brennan. "Like a carpenter, we learn our trade through hands.' "
00 apprentlcmg.
From its start as a craft, it can evolve into artistry. "The first few years
(cooking] aren't a matter of style," says Jasper White. "I tell all my cooks when
they come to work for me that it's really a matter of learning how to cook.
The techniques and skills are universal, I think, to a certain extent. If I tell
my cooks to make lobster bisque and how I want it to taste, the skill that it
take for them to recreate my dish is the same skill that they would need to
create their own food. So I really feel that before you reach the point of art,
it' a craft. And without being really highly killed in the craft, I don't believe
you can ever attain artistry---even if you get a few write-up in the magazlne ."
Joyce Gold tein i al 0 careful to di tingUi h between tho e who practice thi prafe ion as a craft ver u an art. he agree that" me chef are
arti t . And then there are lots of craft people. A craftsperson i someone
who rna ter technique and can do a lot of dazzling tuff with technique. And
that comes from practice, which i where school really helps a lot.
"Arti try can come from people with virtually no kill with a knife at
all. That' cookmg in the soul-and some people have that and some people
don't. That you don't learn-that either you have, or don't have. It' like
being a painter-you can be a very competent painter. You can learn how to
grind your pigment and prepare your canvas. You can learn all thi tuffbut it' not going to give you soul. There are some people who have hitty
technique, but they paint fabulously. The artistic i intuitive-and that
comes from God know where. I couldn't begin to tell you."
How should chef evaluate their impact? "When you cook, do you
reach others with your message?" ask Goldstein. "With lots of technical tuff,
dinm go, 'Ooooh!' But only the culinary artist wants to make food that pea-pi,e III remember With their mouths, not only with their ey
that when
0d1-. taste It, they want to taste It again and again.

o t

"I don 't thtnk you have t be remvcntm' th

wheel to be creative or a rti~ tlL.
metllne the m t
d sec nd out of the If S artistic people play with a very \tm lted palclte. Y, U pKk
a'1d olher human bemgs
your palate, you pICk your ran ge, you pick what lOterHowa d Ga'dn r ests you-and then you cook your h eart out.
"How do you measure success as a chef? Well. did you get them m the
gut? Did you get them in the heart? And, most importantly. diJ you get th m
in the mouth? These should be your goals."

la
d Ih objectlv
f

What does it take to make the leap into the

realm of artistry? "How do you learn to
become a great piamst? Where does that come from? It' not ju~t learnmg
how to punch the keyboard." says Bradley Ogden. "It's omething mure than
that. A lot of it is natural ability-it' prohably 75 percent natural ability.
Either you have it or you don't have It. orne of it can be tramed, but a lot of
. can '"
It
t.
Gary Danko says, "Cookmg i-, for me, the perfect halance of art and
Clence. There' that creative endeavor within you that can think out the season~ and the tlavor pr fde . Then there', the cientlfic part-what is actualI) gam!.! n with the whl.k. It I'm blanchmg hroccolt, why IS it turnmg brown
10 the pan? A y u tlId) th t, you Ie rn that \lmetime it you conk a lot (t
vegetable, 10 the ,line wat r" n aCI I wlil devt:\op. And If you cnok a green
vegetable 10 th ( odie wJ[cr, It' g 10 to turn ,mny brown. l) these .Ire
thmg you tart to Ie rn throu 'h clenee."
Hubert ' lIer b lle,,1:' that creativity i rooteJ in ma. tering the cla.SIC~, ,m argument r Ill, term' the cr,1 t of co Jkin~ hefore attempting arti try.
"If yuh \ e a (oundari n, Y u ere 'Ihle to pl'l)' d little 1m," he ays. "When
you're learntnc [fiU ie at the beUtnlltn " y, u I r.. ctlCe calc. Once you Ie, rn,
you tart to play ther pe Ie' ong. An I once you've le.trned th e, If you
get really good. you might ,wn compe II1g, little hir. It' the elme tn co kmg. Once ~ou have a lot of tX nence, you might. tart t tnl:lu Ie a c uple
In the hands of a oyal art san cook ng can be of ingrtJient that mIght n t have been mcluded b
very good Indeed In the hands of a great chef [Paul) Roeu e, by [Paull Haeherlm, by fRo' rI Vcr 'Cft can be ublme
othen.... ~e. III }be their half W ulJ ~t,m I on en I! But I
R - dO" y you're tn
ifferent country, with a different udl n c,
and if you fed It' not JU t being done to hock, meume It can.... rk. Yl)U
have to have a gUideline, though- nd thcn ~ou e n go a little bit n 'ht r
little bit left."

Cooking as an Art

In the proce of hecoming a culm f) ftl t, Or ~ Kunz I th;ll th r

I a point that you are not, and a pomt th t you ,lrc. Wh n ~ u'r 1.,1 t on
your feelmg and mtult! m to a di h-the rtl t I
nlln U[ t d I[
nr

li rice ()<:fml n ,md Johanne Killeen are quick

'lint ,-mt, "There are not th,lt many culinary
{I I
nh .1 ,m.1l1 proportion of chef fall Inta that
aru't'. .,

lteglJr)'

Cookmg IS at once onf: of the Simplest and rr:o t

gratlfymg of the art" but to COOK well one muc;'
love and respect food
-\,/a' :

~Ia lJ"

Part of \\hdt characteri:es culinary artists is their expressiveness and

[heIr dblhn to cook from their gut. "They have their own way of expressing
them,eke,," says Daniel Boulud. "In food, the expression is more phy~ical
and el11l)[[Onal. When creating great food, the taste is always memorable.
Buts sometlme' the best food is not always the result of deep thought.
5ai11etlme~ It Imply falls together."
Killeen and German agree. "We're most influenced-I don't want to

sa\' tntellectually or theoretically, because that's getting a little bit beyond

what It really Is-hy our gut," says Killeen. "It's also very dangerous, when
you ,tart talking In theoretical and philosophIcal terms," adds German. "It
really i, almost like the death of a dIsh." Kdleen continues, "In terms of art
and artl'try and food. it has a lot more to do WIth your gut than your intellect. There are certainly great intellectual artl ts. but there are also artists
who Simply create from their gut. And I think that's more what we do than
an\'thmg ele."

Customers

eu'tamer var') greatly In term~ of their knowledgeahility

ahout food and Wine, not to mentlon peronal hl,tPry, !tfe

expenence, :md !tkes and di,ltke', whICh dffect nor only theIr p(ltentlal for
enJOYing a dil11ng expenence but al,o f Ir interpreting \\ hat a chef m.IY he trymg to expre,,, in hIS or her food. Food' meanll1!.; lie, a~ mLlch 111 the CLl'>tomer's reception as it Joes 111 the chet" II1tentlon. For example, pre,entll1g
four different cu'Swmer, With identical. "perfeC[" trawbern' tart might evoke
four \ery different reactiom: fonJ memone 10 omeone who reLall~ picking
and eatm,! ,trawherrie' as a child, alarm In ,mother who I' allergic to ~traw
berne", ~ih in a third who may be on a dIet and concerned ahout the Jish\
calone or chole terol count. and e(>t.l'l 10 a fourth who ,pent the pnor
even 109 hem'! fed 'trawherrie' hy a 100'er!
Cu,romers' level of knowledge WIll al,o color their percertLon of the
chef' profe~,ion Ibdf. The ~ame popular cookbook and televi Ion ,how
that have ,erved to catapult leaJmg chef. mto hoU',eholJ name~ have perhap, 10 turn, done chefs a db,ervlce. In leading chefs' well-meaning enCllur3!!emcnt to home Loob that the~, too, (an Look the chef' three- Ilt four- tar
iood at home, the~ have rerhap, omitted any mentIon ot the Ve,lT of trainIn!? md expenence that are behmd the re Ipe ,md mdeed the p~dCtlCe (If pro~ lonal cookmo-, leadm o- to the genera I pu bl'
ll:
mt gUided VICW that "an~lxxh c n
k .!reat food."

"Perhap~ heL,lll e e\ crybody edt, <lnd many r

nvesf two hours work
hi' h k b
k f k t 55 Y fa
Ie cook to ~l)me extent, t ey L nn t t In eVI nd th
5 m nU'es en"oyment but" cookmg 15
P
f"
,\V I
I
tw
.'
I
daily
task-mak'
'lOg II It, nute:> wayne
Ih, "T here'
"'''anescent, well so 15 the ballet
1 I
h
~,.,
-Julia Crild simply no reference 10 t 1elr I\'e~ to \\ .It oJ re 11Iv !,'Te t
, '
can do It require~ a frequent restaurant-goer to e\en
culinary praCtitIOner
.
h' k about that to any extent.
.
begm to t m ,
I'
h
.
"When you have cooking shows on te eVI,lon t at are reachmg IJut to
,
k the" bv necessity eliminate a great deal of skilb in order to
domestic coo s,
"
"
.
'
'I
ble
to
the
nons
killed
home
cook,
he
pomts
out.
ma ke It a\'al a
No book of which we're aware (other than the one you're holding) h~,
ever case
I ' I) examl'ned how a culinary artist compose, hi~ or her creations ,

while scores of books have exammed the creative process of painters, musicians, and \\TlterS, for example-therehy helping the general puhlic t\l aprreciate the level of sophi. ticated thought and COnsCillUS deign that underlIe,
their compo,ition" This ~urely enhances the le\'el of appreciation and
respect the puHic has for such artist,
In the economic hoom uf the 19 __\\, diner~ grew increasingl) famil Lar
with gourmet mgreoLenr ,lOll me clming, fI.'suiring in more educated and discriminatmg palare . The grO\nh m nh.:rnb('r~hlp organi:atillns ,uch as the
American In tLtute of ~ . me n I F, ..I (no The James Beard Fl1lmdatLon,
which pon

r edu anonal \'en

dinner"), rdle t
Ache

n an rea 100~h

rangll1g trl m II1gredlent t,lstmg, to'recial

phi t1l:.ltcd

It\.: ntt.:lc,

h I\e begun to come Into their O\\n, theIr e4ualh ,Ilh'entur-

au eu'tamer h \e enc lUr. 'cd their IOnO\'.It1on, Dmer' Vl)ICe' han'

become louder \\ Jth the, d\'ent )f nn \Imer-poll publtcatll1n ~LL(h a tht'
:ag-at urte) lIld Marcellmo' \\hlCh ummclflze their (lpinl!ln .
There I a tnangular rei t10n hiP' m n J cheh, the tngre lienr \\ nh
whlLh the~ chou e to c ,k, nd their cu toll1crs. '0[ onl} Joe c< obl1!!'
,mbigUlt~ ~ n an tern fr m i
'uttlltanan rOot, hut d lubtle tI 0 tr III
eu tamef u ed w a hha\ e It }UlIf WI}" menta!Jt} \\hen it come to iood.
Thert~ I little r m left tur her' ere t1\ e expre Ion \\ hen thcy'n: re rond109 to reljue t fOf uh t1tUtl I1! nd au e "on the ide."
Gl\'en the profe lonalt m dem,mJeJ b} hotel cookmg e peCI til), II !)
Danko admit, "I d m't panicularl~ cook for m} elf .1n}m re, I h ve m\ fll\ r
pnnciple , anJ I ha\ e UI he ea >ned the \\ a} I \\t)uld e,l~on them, Jnd th
gaml he on the dl he are for me. Bur m a hotel re taurant, It I' not unll u II
for people to Come m and tan rippmg our food apart, I Jon't Imlld \\ hen reI pic rC\.!uest thtng Itke serving the uce on the .d" but pc ric \\111 rd r
meat dl h I l ffer \\Jth a tarrag n essence md 1 '/ d n't v. tnt t lIT I
there.' Chef reall~ h \e to learn t rem vc them' h
per Ik II fr I
food. Wh n v.e 'pened, we'd get cust m rs wh r I red uttl
tI
2

~u to under tand what you're ~eeing,"

says Miller One ch e f mentioned
.
. '
how

\v

the star system for rat'Ing restaurants but

a r artl ular cnnc Wished to abohsh
.
wa~ not able to do -0 because It sold newspapers!
The LUlinary
community includes organizations such as Th e James
.
Beard FuundatlOn, .host of The James Beard Awards, the debut of which in
lu~l made the culinary arts the only non-performing art with its own tele\"Ised awards program, a,nd which have played an invaluable role in bringing
recognition to Amenca s leading chefs.

The Art of Composition

As previously mentioned, the general

public is probably ill-aware of the level
of thought and care that goes into culinary artists' compositions. In the evolution or elev~tton of food from a strictly utilitarian Composition: the act of composmg, or putting
realm to an epicurean one, such compositions become together a whole by combming parts, an arrangeincreasingly intricate. The moment of composition is ment of the parts of a work of art so as to form a
the point at which a chef has the opportunity for unified. harmonious whole.
expreSSIOn and to largely determine what a customer will receive. It is important for chef~ to understand how their decisions Will mfluence the end result.
"There are some cooks who create Just for the sake of creating. But
when it comes down to eating a dish, It has to make sense," Insists Bradley
Ogden. "If one flavor is fighting with another, and too many different things
are going on, it doesn't work."
imilarly, George Germon and Johanne Killeen mention that they
heard Fauchon's pa~try chef Pierre Herme dLCU . "the architecture of taste."

t!nue that cycle, wherea~ white men po"e sed them and hroke the cycle. Then, at one point, the
Indian \~ent anJ ~tole back the gift, they'd given the white men, and that's where the term "Indian
~IVlng" came from.
All of thl helped put ~ome per pective on how our pre ent culture is so damaging to the creative
proce . In term of what chef are domg, 0 often they're trying to figure out what the current trend i
and what dm:ctlon they ~hould go 10 to rlerue a market. They're so husy orienting themselves commerCially that they lo;e touch With what It i- they want to eat. For example, one of my cooks presented for
my cflt14ue a dl h of one fish rolled in another fish with forcemeat ruffed inside, then rolled In somethmg el e, erved With nuts and mu hrooms and herbs and lettuce leaves around it, and two butter
uce . I Imply a"ked him, "Would )()u want to eat that?"
I thmk It was Gael Greene [of Nett' York magazine] who once wrote of Aurora [a now-defunct
1 nhattan re taUTant that was opened In rhe mid-1980s by Joe Baum and Gerard Pengo), "Right now
) 're bu y tn 109 to figure out what ew Yorker want to eat. We look forward to their getting over
h rdle nd cooking what they feel like c king and what they would want to eat."

"He pointed out the idea that

there is--or sh ould be-structure as well as taste and balance
going on in a dish," they say.
"Even if there are twelve ingredients in a dessert, each should
have a specific purposewhether it adds sweetness or
tartness or texture. And all of
them should come together to
work as a whole."
The starting point is a classical foundation: some, and preferably much,
familiarity with ingredients and techniques. Given the intemattonallarder of
ingredients and repertoire of techniques avadable to chefs, the number of different compositions that can result is \'lrtually limitless. History has tamed
this potential chaos through the relentless testing of vario us ingredient combinations and the resulting development of classical flavor combinations and
dishes that represent the most ucce . ful marriages of flavors and ingredients.
These can proVIde an I!1valuable starting point for chefs, and are explored In
great detail later in this book.
Cookmg IS for capturing the taste of the food and
In adJltlon, a chef's individual preferences will,
then enhancmg It, as a composer may take a over time and in the nght circumstances (of creative
theme and then delight us WIth hIS vanatlons
frt:edom), give rt,e to the chef' own personal style of
-FE'r'] nd Po nt
cookl!1g. \Vhtle thb i a Cllmplex and probably largely
unconsciou proce" it 1, compn'ed of a chef's reactions to every cooking
technique he or )he ha evcr een u ed or evt:ry combination of flavors he or
he has ever tasted-and I!1stantly accepted for or rejected fw m suhseljuent
use in hi or her repertoire.
Thc work of a chef and the appreciation of a dini ng expenence I'
unique-and uniquely demanding-in that it draw upon eac h of the five
sen es. Whtle the sense of ta.,te i' the one mo't heav ily empha i:eJ, the
sen e of smell is just a , if not more, important. While the tongue can ta te
only four hasic flavors, the sense of smell pruviJe us with many more ensory impressions. Similarly, the sense of touch-and one';. ,Irpre~l<ltion ,,(
textures--comes into play not only with the finl(ertip' but ,II,,) fn m the
mouth's own en or5, not to mention the ear' apprc I:lti n (a good
crunch~ And while it may be O\'crempha ized in mode rn L okmg, a pIe,
ing visual presentation of a dish can add gre<Jti) to one\ totdi <.Ipprc Iltllln
of It.

The Realm of the Senses

16

-----

- -

-~

---

Bringing Creativity and Point of View

to ... Asparagus
It LllokllH! \H' re ne\'er an art, but simply a skill, you would hand five different
'd up Wit
'h
" a bunch <If "a,paragus each, request that they' cook I't ' and Win
.: I1<'t, ,
il\'t~ nwre llr h~" Identically cooked plates of asparagus,
But leadmg chefs bring very different points of view to the same asparagUS spear, If they're skilled at their craft, they'll know how long to cook it so
th,j[ It' Cllmlstency is at its best. But how they choose to cook it, and what
they (hoose to COllk It with-these are areas where their creativity and per,onal preferences come into play,
:\eeJ more connncing? Then let's have some fun, Let's see if you can
match the di,he-, with the chefs who have featured them on their restaurant
menu~:

I. Dun,!{eness Crab and Green Asparagus Salad uith MeJer Lemon

2. Grilled Asparagus uith Olit-e Bread Crumbs and Olit'e Oil
3.

Aspara~us

u'ith Dried Shrimp \ 'inai~etre

4. Watercress Salad uith Gnlled Asparagus and Red Onion

5 , AsparaKus Soup u lth a

\l

eet Pepper COl/lis

a. Damel Boulud-Re Ulurant Damel , I eu York City
b, Susanna Foo---Susanna Faa, Philadelphia
c. Mark Ped and Nanc)' llterwn-Campande
and La Brea Bakery, La Angeles

d. Chm chle rnger-Ea t Coast Gnll , Bo ton

e, Alree Water -Chez Pam sr , Berkeley , California
Reade familiar wuh the chef' unique tyle!' of cuisine hould have a
little ea ier time With thi ' than thoe who don't. But there are certainly
enough c1u in the above information to get you tarted. For example, are
th re regIOn, I or ethnic a ociation with any of the ingredients or technlljue mentioned? Which chef would have the mo t ready acce to them!
P mt of \'lew i not limited to the re tau rant experience, nor to the
rl teo It I e\'en expre ed through the de criprion of a single di h on a menu.

(I

r,Hrtck O'Ctmndl remmd, u' , "Thl . bl1, me~ tford the opp rtUnItv t
' l~~ t'llent
th1t
draw on e\'en, ,Ing
,
' Yl)l1 h,\ve, but It s not vle\\cd th t \\ 1\ vet
It ,S \,Ie\\'e Jas' 1110re t,t' ,'1 technical e.'pertl,e .t)r <l trade, mstead ot the
, rt form
.. NL1f't
L ,d\'" pushing the outer Ilmlt~, 10 terms of v.h,lt It
reall~ III
t lat It IS,
"
,

about."
Our aim is to exam me the opportunities tor composltll)nal chOlle pen
to the chef-specifically, the compoitlOn of f/at'ors , the compo<,ition ot dl hes. and the comrosition of dishes into mentis-and how these ch oice CUlllUlati\'ely evolve into a chef's unique style of cuisine.
Whether the reader is a chef, or a home cook wishing to better understand decision making in the compositlonal process, or a restaurant diner
wishmg to better understand some of what goes into the creatIon of a dmmg
experience, we hope the end result will be the. ame: a stronger appreciation
for the talent-, efforts, and accompli hments of Amenca's treasure of culmary
artists.

A Final Word

B~aut\' I'> often in the eye of the beholder. Snme audi-

ence member might be moved to tears while attending the upera, \\ htle other Hung m the "llne row dre bored to te;\ r~ . Likely,
some uf them hlllg a mOT edu dte I emd kno\\le,lgeable appreciation [0 what
they are xpenen Ill.!, and 0 the e '[ <:nen(e I nllt the same! O ne' con~CIOU ne hm!! n Imp( nant el m nt to ,tn~ ,Ie'thetl( e.perienle-mcludmg that f I dm r or hef.
Tl) nke I pullf exampl ,thmk a th' "~!.lgIL Eye" plLture' th,lt ,1ppear
e"cf) \\ here Ir m the und) comll,; to let - ellmf.; hoob, If YUlt IUllk at them
one wa , the} 're merel col rtuluna
( n paper-not otfen lve, hut ,Irgu.lhly
11 t creat an, el her, But If) u knO\\ hl)\\ to 10 k mtn the pllotu re, It I ~ plh"lhle
to ~ee an 1m t maglloal thrcc-dmlen I n II Image . ot everyone C, IO see the
3-D nnm!e; It take knowl .!c nd pr<1 tl e. But the potentlal to see It I '1!I\3}
there. And JU t hecau>c some pe pIc
e It nJ other lall't doc n't meCln
that It Joc n't eXI t. Imtlarh, 111 ~
,
me omer I);IVC nc\ er h \ 1 ,) dmmg
expenenloe that ha moved them on the le\e1 of art. But tho e ,f II who h \e
been 0 mm'c I know that thl potential eXI t .
For dmer , the . ecret I to know th,J[ the potential i th re .1II I (0
oren them elve tll It. For chef, the elorcr lie 10 ~bP lfln y to realoh th Ir
Cutomer in thl manner. "In order ro lore te \\\th (,)00, or to lre, te It ht: ,
you really have to ha\'e the end III mmd," y Jlfnlll) l.hm ldl "You ha\e
to percel\ e a pIcture or a VI Ion of whdt }llU're tr~ mg [() ere te, tnt! (hen
,our palette to paint with lin order) to create th It pictu re I } ur 10 redl
ent and} nur te hnlque~. The mgredlent re the rhmg th t r m t \
Ible, that }oU can ce, and ho\\ you put (hem III nd v. heth 'r th 'r 10 th

. . . (oE~ 8Dd I
"11rina abcM "' -.~1
..... Jefoerated by the actiftdon cl many
IMlllIOries are created the wne way. 8Dd that why~_
. .,Ill -life are very VIVid beeauae they've got all cl your . . .""
look al: your food memories, and you can probably rea_a.
.L"""'"_ belt med. you've ever had, you can probably
bed mrow. But tell me whal: you ate thtee weea ... Oft
....., tJJtI.tt.lf it ,.,m'1: somethinI brilliant, you probably doo'l: ten ..
it.1 n it
bad? No. II: just didn't create a memory. Bet:. -=
IdiVate ex catch the attention all your aemel
one the first things that hits. If something. not pIanot png to m II a lot. It doesn't mean a diIh aood
.,.a'll: amvare the &enIe c:l si&ht- Smell exaemely auc~
lot !DOle rhinp
you can [ r t e you can only
. . (JMouIly. the Ide factor d.erc as well. hut beJlDl .
. ..
II l!fEilue factor, the
c:l fed. Even if you
reD if 104'" thiDe hot or cold to the pall....
the
to
inner ar; you caD acII.

1IIft_ "'.

remember._

man

.1,10-,

iD the
tdemky

beckaround

the

really the ~
JOc=-M
darlD
1ft

aa.

,
, _ ' h'lme way other art can, the way a good pIece of lite ra ture or mu Il
I'm n,)t -lire tooJ can 010\ e ) Oll In t e '<
,_ ,
- t h a t the ahdlty to really mo\'e reople IS a ha~1C c ntenon of fme art. 0
C'r a raln[[ng can, It seem, to me
,,

'
L'
nent
to
cooking?
Is
the
eXistence
of
haute
Clilsme,
our
equl\<llent
of
flOe
,hC'lIIJ there l'e a tme-art comro
,
,"
'
"
'f'
d'I'
,
.
to relate to food as tolk art- It s an ea~lly Identifiable cultural expre .. Ion,
an, real Iy )U,t1 Ie ' t 5 eas)
But fine art:
"
In the world of fine art, most artists don't want to be thought of as sImply a repreentatlon of thelf
' g man"J thmk of asclo'>er
to folk art. They want to be addressing broader qucstioO!'>" If
ClI Irure, somet h m
'
look at a great rainting, for in'tance, it can mean something rrnfound to people all o\'er the world,
Oc>es food eXist on a comparable le\'el? Is that what fine dining-haltte CltL ine-i~? Or is food Ie" expre,>SI\'e and, by necessity, does it ha\'e to stay rooted in the culture that it come from? I'm not ,ure we\'e
rOll

come far enough to answer that l/ue"t1on,

Perhars haute cuisine is Itke opera, which e\'el)'one Seem to rec(1l!ni:e a" an art form , albeit not
uni\'ersal or easily accessible, In fact It\ pretty arcane, Though opera can be movinl!, it's an <lrt form you
have to be pretty ver,ed in to appreciate, Rarely can some ne who h,ls ne\'er heard opera heftlre unJerstand It right off the bat. You have to know what you're li,remng to, why they're achiennl! t hilt voice
qual in'. Thinkmg about it, I wouldn't a~ opera 1 n't an art iorm-thar it ,hllulJ be elimin,lted-iu'>t
becau e it's nnt easily acce,sible. So I could be cnn\'lnced to a the '.Hne .Ihollt halite cwsmc , thlluf.!h I'm
not totally comfortable with that conelu I n.

I think thee are thm!!. ,rudentJ m culll1lf) - h )!'-c1n) }llung people tnterc'te,1 in the pmie,sion-<hould thmk C1hout. They need to unJer t,md the cultuml, hI tl nc.ll, polnic,l!, ,m I an i,tic LOntext of their profe~'lon, I came of age 111 the IXUe , \\hen It \\a t hlO!\ahk: to ha h h(lwe Cl~isint? a, e1lt-

that the) clre ell1 .It theIr peak. You c. n have d grt'.lt Idea , find ynu c,m plir .I
hunch of tn!!reJlcn tugether on cI I'll re, lut I lhmk th e key is gcninf.! ,111 01
them down on the plate at the
exact tIme mat \\urk perfectlv.
"Look, for In ranee at
~
,
ed. It hould bc aged, oreau e
If you ate it nght away it woulJ
be terrible, Even a chicken nced
agmg; it need~ fort} -eight hour,
as oppo ed to two or three
weeks. You don't want to eat a

I t In truth, I don't thmk It has to be-in fact, it won't be-if we continue to talk about these thmgs,
to Jebate. to understand.
of the fact that you ingest it and not J'ust look at I't- h as a umque
"
, on
F J-because
,
ImpressIon
pe~1rl('. Be(ause It goe across your tongue, because taste and smell are the most evocative of our senses
we react in strongly animal ways-these were protective devices for us for so many millenia. Taste and
smell are something we have to reckon with carefully. I mean, we're not going to put out a whole big
plate of bitter stuff for our customers, just so that they can have a strong, negative reaction to it. On the
other hanJ, if you go to a good piece of theater, you might see something incredibly ugly put in front of
you. You are intended to have a visceral, negative reaction to it. We don't do that with food, do we? Do
we have the equivalent of sad or angry or hateful flavors? If we don't, does that make food less an art
than a folk art or craft?
Could It be that bitter flavors are the equivalent of ugliness in literature or theater? Take Campari,
for Il1stance. My daughter tasted it the other day for the first time, and she washed her mouth out over
and O\'er-she thought it was the most vile stuff she'd ever tasted. She couldn't imagine that we could
sit there and drink it. I've come to enjoy that bitterness. Is that equivalent to enjoying a heavy novel or
play?
If food is art, why haven't we developed a sophisticated way of talking about it? Why isn't it studied in art departments rather than schools that have been historically connected to vocational/technical schools? Why is there still ambivalence about whether or not it's a desired profession? I think historically, worldwide--except for haute cuisine in France--cookmg has been backroom stuff, out of the
limelight, e,sentially all done by women, Ito., never been celebrated the way other pursuits have, so perhap' It's hard to talk about becau e we're not participating in a conversation that's gone on for eons. I
hope that by the time I'm old and gray, we'll have made some progress.

chIcken nght after it's been killed. The) 're terrible. Whether it's chicken or
beef, you want to capture it at the moment in iL cycle when It's the most
palatable-not only for flavor development, but for texture. Likewise, a vegetable that', pLCked--especiall'y when you're talking about herbs and suchthe be t pomt I nght then and there, that exact second.
":0, If you can collide the different ingredients you're putting together
at that tlme when they're all at their peak to create your smgular concept of
flavor, hat' the big challenge. Freshness has got a lot to do with It-sometime. In Other ca e" things should be aged. Everything has a cycle.
"Th ecret i-: gettlng in 5'inc WIth that cycle to get the elements to collid ,"hen it' most advanrageou-, to all of them."

MedIum. A t

Cui mary artlsb mu, t under<;tand the nature of th Ir

f
rf
a
Is medIUm Cookmg 15 dltferent rom pc ume-making
~~~~
.
,
~ mvC'/vec
for example, m that chef don't mix pure flavor
or the ere
. I boratory test tubes and different from music-makmg in that the
essences m a
'
.
edl'ents
aren't
as
singular
as musICal note~-they' re more hke
fl avors 0 f mg r
natural chords. Not only is an ingredient very often a combmatlon of flavor
but it also has other characteristics that must be taken into comlcit!ration
when cooking-its aroma, its color, its texture, and even it common aS~OCI'
ations, such as with a particular holiday or country. It is critical that cooks
become conscious of, and learn to respect, the medium of food.
rtS )f eX(lfC"C;lon

as dctemmeti

Sensory Perception

In any encounter with food, taste IS probably one of the last senses en gaged. Because

food is something we ingest, we judge it carefully, critically, and instinctively. All of our senses are used to evaluate whether to put the food mto Our
mouths, and then whether to wallow It. First, you look at it, and then you
might smell it. Is it safe? Is it appealing? If a food appear~ h ot , for example,
you might first try to touch it to gauge Its temperature. W ill it bum your
mouth? If it pas<;es mu ter and you bite into it, your first experience is one of
texture . Is it oft? Cn,py? If It\ Crl,py, you'll probably hear the crunch m your
inner ear a plttecond before It. Havor hegins to register on your taste buds.
Su, ta te h
methmg that I expenenced (and, one hopes, enjoyed) only
after the Other en e have ir t been ti,iie I-and it b where our attention
ha the pleasure of IlOgering.
A~ Mark Miller POint out, "TH te 1 an eXl'otenttal, sensual experience.
We don't really unde tan I it. Language I what We u~e for taste, and yet the
bod~' g ~, through thi temper,ll pr ce ; there arc highs and lows, tntensities,
duration, complexitie . Ta te I ,I very, very complex thing in the boJ),
where it unlfle a number of factor ."
Unoerstan ing the magnitude of the fa re experience ha IInport:lnt
impltcattoru. for d 19nmg food .
"When you de Ign [food) for
people, you have to be much
more aware of the body's expertence, and not get caught In
either looking at (he ohject or
thinking of how they experience
it or u ing language," ay Mtller.
"Language I de Crtptlve and
analytical; It i n t about the
expertence Itself."

24

COOKING WITH THE SEASONS

SPRING

artich~ kes

asparagus
,l\'ocaJo'i
reans, fa\'a
beet greens
beets
blueberries
carfish
chard

chervil
CitrUS fruit;;, esrecially
bh)od or,mges, Meyer
lemon,
clams
cra],s, soft-shell
crayfish
cucumhers
dandelion greens
fava beans
fiddle head ferns
frisee
frogs' leg~
garlic, especially green
green~-arugula. chervil.
mustard
grouper

guavas
hali],ut
honeydew mek'ns
lamb
lettuce
mint
mi:uma
morels
nettles
onions, Vidalia
papa,"as
peas
potatoes, new

cherrie
chickpea
claJru
com
cra~. ) t- hell
cucumber
curr,lnt
eggplant

Inchl nut
I 1- It;r
mn
min
mu kmcl n
ncCl.Jrtnc
okra
peach
peppers
plums
pc. rCIO!
potatoe new
raspberrie
rataroutlle
red currant
salmon
sardmes
scallions

~callion

sea bass
shad and shad roe
shallots
snl'W peas
sorrel
strawberries
suckling pig
sugar snar rea,
vanilla
veal
water chestnuts
watercress
:ucchini

radishe~

rhubarb
.almon
arJine~

SUMMER

apncots
arugula
b-asil
beans. green
bernes

blackberrie
blueberries
canteloupe
celery

hantercll

fl
fr Ie
garlic
g Jat
g
bern
grapes
gua\as
halibut
h(meydew melons
Ice cream

The.~ .... moat characIeristic of the 88.ea.,. are rtdicated by bol'''' type
.... ,

year-round they are

I.ed under their MaaOi'lBl peak(S)

hallots
hdlfbh
herbet
squashes. summer
tomatoc
tropical fruit
tuna
watermelon
zucchini

While

many Ingredients are 10 fact

cauliflower
celer' root

cere'

chJmerelle~

arrlt' ..
reafi.han, !:Teen and lima
hlood or:m!!c'
hoccoh
hx:coh rabe
rru"d- "rout

cJbha:.ce
capon

che,mut.'
coconut,
c ranherrie.,
dalkol1
date,
duck
eel.,
fennel

k:
(Ole gras
!!Jme
!.!ari ic
!.!rape'

ch tnut
chlcone

cmu fruits-Hood
oran 'e, r,lp fruit.
kumquat, ie er
lemon

clementme
balUn

he n, 1--1 ck nd r mto
broccl It
bru el prout'
hoc \\heat
cabbage

\-1-C
C

" I \ 0,

cod
d,ukon
dned fruit

endive
e ar Ie

leek
lenttb
lobster

mflche
monHI h
mu eI
nut
nut OIl

or m!!c
oran"e hlood
par nips
p Ion fruit

rapcfrult

ratt:

'reen , colllfJ and mus-

pmeapple
tatQC';

rei

kale

\ IOU

kiWI

Icroy r It

grape" Muscat
herring
leeks
lemons, Meyer
lobster
maple syrup
mushrooms
mussels
onions
papayas
partndges
pears
peppers
persimmons
phea,ams
pomegra na tes
r ark

fruit
kohlral-I

rabbit
r dlcchlo
ro cmaf)'

pumpkins
quail
quinces
rabbits
radicchio
radishes
shellfish
squab
swordfish
tangerines
turkey
truffles, white
venison
walnuts

rutar.egas
.. aIs ify
",all;-.,age~

r.'I"
sea urchm
qu,hhc." wimer
quid
tar fruit
sweet potatoes

'Col

t,mgermc
Hople,11 fruit
truftlt bl
turnip
"c,ll hank

vms

Perhaps no fond I' more stimulat ing to the 'en c, and In

such an appealing way than that wh ich I" made irom
ingredients at their seasonal peak. Seasonaltty h as emerged .1' the mantrd of

Seasonality

the leading chefs we ll1terviewed.

Gary Danko POll1ts out, "If you are using ingred ien t> grown in "ea on,
you're going to have the maximum amount of fl avor those products can deltver. Tomatoes grown in the summer have much more fla vor than the one. yllu
get in the winter that have been picked orange , gassed, shipped to their de tination, and quite frankly taste like cardboard or cellulose. There\ no flavor
in them whatsoever. A good cook might be ahle to doctor them with a little
bit of sugar to cut the acid, add some salt and some herbs to bring out whatever flavor is there, and might be able to make a decent sauce. But there's no
comparison to the flavor you can get out of a seasonal product bv Jomg less
to it, which Will also satiate the palate better."
The rhythm of the seasons IS wonderful. It has
While seasonality is mmt freq uently aSSOCIated
inspired pamters and musiCians for centuries.
with fruits and vegetables, there IS a season to other
and If does the same for me
ingredients as well. "We used to get , almon from all
-JeanLoUiS Pc. ad f) O\'er the place, a nd nnw we know that the local
almon IS the best ta [mg, and we Just ll\l: locell .almon when It\ aV<lllahlethe sea' n can run from the end of Aprd thwugh ~ eptember," ,ay~ Alice
Water. "\X'e ne\ er 'er\'t~ It .my mher [line of ear."
The rea on for Looking e,) on.dl} clre not nnly [oPted m ,ei:mg ,m
ingredient' peak fI, \or, arl rna, ,Ild teo (Ure, .dthuugh th ese re,bon, .tre
mo t llnporrant. C okm!! \\ I[h the e,l on .d (1 h,I" the power to "Hlsfy
mnate or learne I lood cravtng . "In ,I htl! ctt~ envtrunmen r, with mternattnnal commerce. it' 1",\ \ for <I rc raur.Il1[ tll I!~nllre thee <lSlln~. Rut l1Ut
boJle ~eem to know rhem and to r.we e. n d 1I1f.;redH:nh the ",Hllt' wa\,
we want to wear lmen~ m the urnrncrtlll1C an I wllolen . . 111 the wmter," "lyS
~1tchdel Romano. "And It' ~ooJ for chef til I the one ttl POlt1t the ,e,l_on, out to people. That' wh~ )Oll won't tmd me ervinl! pumpkm ra\'11 II
m Au!!ust (r berne m the mtJdle oi WlI\ter, ,mJ } O U wo n't ee cI rardgu on
my menu an) tlIne except 'prmg. If )OU II ten to ~ ( ur loel y. It wIiI tell "till
what to c ok."
A, we'll ee in the flllloWIl1l! chapter o n comp 1'111 ' 111\'(>r c(l(lkl!1,l!
~ea~onally can al (J pro'
. 1.
\ lUI:
a h onclH to CIl I lila!) clrtl r eeklll~ the Hill t Il.1t monlOu ~omhlnatilln. of ingredIent .Ill I flavor. ''Ju t \\ orklllg II It It the C I'
sons, )OU re half \/oay there," pOint Ollt Terr In e Brennan .

Aromas

orne expert cre

Itt drom.

With IInp run 1

Import lilt
r <. h

the actual ta te It If. It'

the role and effeLt uf vanou trom on a d. h. (liven th

28

nlU

t)

IW r

h (] tH r
lind N J
r

Culinary Artists on
the Inspirations of the Seasons
Jean-Louis Palladin
pnne

Te7Tine of Smoked Salmon. Spinach, and Anchmry Butter

or Fresh Cream of Pea Soup with Maine Shrimp and QueneUes
Soft-SheU Crab with PancetUl Butcer or Rockfish Sauteed with Basquaise
Farm-Raised Rabbit with Herbs and PortobelJo Mushrooms
or Veal Loin Roasted with Faoo and Ham RagoUt
Coconut Milk Tapioca CrousciUant with Saffron Coulis and Pineapple Sherbet
utntn r

Coconut Soup with Maine Ralar Clams, Vegetables, and QueneUes

Fresh Maine Abalones WIth Pea Fondue and Saffion
Fresh Duck Fote Gras WIth Rhubarb
Fresh Sturgeon WIth Arachoke Barigowle
Farm-Raised Guinea Hen Roasted With HeTbs and Green ~ Rop1t
Peach Tan With Peach Uquewr CoWis and Apricoc herbet

F
Pumpkin Soup With Tas ArvIouille, and ~~s
Sea Scallops ... th SqWd Ink oodk and p~ CowJis
Rd napptT With Lnnon
fit, Block DIMs, u.".ers,
T~ , Ba.sil and Lnnon 0lWe Oil
Venuon ...un Fnm Cantu and pmadt- twffed Pear
u.Wt Port and Red W~ EsstnCe
CMcoIow Tart u.Wt Gianduia SJ... btr and ChocoIau

COl""

fmIt Ocsulilt Soup . . So4fed Squab l..ep and QwndIa

SetN & If w. .. MGint Lobst.n and G.nr EmMbion
Fiala o..dc
Oral u.Wt Quince
Fiala Tllihoc ..... Enola wlbooms and Enoici CO'cIis
Fed ali. r lib ..,. edt" Rooc RliCc"
MG__
T_
b ere "..d Wild DL teli'

,..,.w

0.."

Anne Rosen;:v.:eig
rrll1 '

Pasta with Mint-Cured Salmon, Cucumbers, Lemon, and Cream

Sauteed Duck Fillets with Rhubarb Sauce and Cracklings
on a Bed of Arugula with Asparagus
Macadamia Nut Tarts with Coconut Whipped Cream

Com Cakes with Creme Frakhe and Caviars

Chimney-Smoked Lobster with Tarragon Butter

and Summer Squash and Potato Fntter
Lemon Curd Mousse uith Fresh Summer Berries in Almond Tuiles
hll
Warm FIgs tl'irh Gorgon:;:ola and \'(!alnuts on Greens
Roast Qlwil uith Sm'o), Cahba,ge and Kasha
Chocolate Bread Pudding tl'lch Brandy Custard Sauce
tnt r

W/tld I 111 hroom Tart

Roast Lamb u nh Celery Root Gratm and Tomato/Red Pepper Casserole
Pear Timbales u rh Slick Caramel 'au e and Sugar BIscuits

stimulate and ar u e, It' perhap one of the mo t underutdi:cd tool at the

culinary art! t' dIS
1. An aroma i c JI h' bUIlt-in appetizer.
A ba} leaf drorred lnto a pot of tew pre duce an earthy, w\:ct aruma.
Cinnamon ad a different, but till earthy and wcer, aroma to baked weet
ranging from pa trie to custard. The mel! of garltc advcrti e:. a fOhn t tolll,lto -auee. And truffles add a heady perfume that can clcvate even Imple
ingredient5 like pa -ta and potatoes to the realm of the sublime!
Jean-George Vongenchten plans to rap the power of aTOm ,It hi next
restaurant by bringing more mells into thc dining nx)m. "Half the JI he on
the menu WIll be erved tableslde," he a} . Vongenchten belIeve th t !nU h
of the experience of carving a freshly roa ted bird, for example, 1 the (ragrance that escapes when it is fir t cut open, and that custome h uld be
alJowed to enJoy chi senso,"} experience.

Dieter Schomer
"'pnll:

Han'ey's Lemon Tart with Raspberry Coulis

Rhubarb Tart . .dth Cinnamon Sugar
SUl111l11

Oeufs

a la Neige (Floating Island)

with Lemon Sherbet

Dutch Rice Flan with Berries

F \1
Plum Tart In Brioche Dough
Alsatian Apple Tart uith Vanilla Ice Cream
Tart of Quinces with Lingonberries
Poached White Peaches filled u,!th Chestnut Mousse and Zabaione
~

IOter
Japonaise-Ver)' Cmp and Thin Hazelnut Meringue
filled uith Ha"elnut Buttercream
Vachenn-Menngue Idled unh Blood Oran~e Sherbet
Apple Pie a la Saw)' Hotel-Sened m a Soup Tureen COt ered u'ith
CookIe Dough along 1m Vanilla Ice Cream

The chef we interviewed are hl!:!hl ttuned

food and take them into can ideratt n v;hen com
even-m Von enchten' Ca5e-a re tauram I elf.
even de enbed a havmg pertume In te d of mere

Textures

the aroma at \'anou

_lOg a dl,h or a menu, or
Favonte ingredient are
roma!

to

Even texture can communtcate. Many food thought of a

comfort food have a oft texture to them-rna hed potatoe ,
apple auce, pudding. Food~ with thl texture can be thought of a' h meyand
nurtunng. On the other hand, a lot of na k foods are cri py-porato ChiP,
preuel . Because of the loud crunch they're capable of producmg when eaten,
here c.an be certain informahty, even a n e of fun, to cri py food . A fned
I u r
chip add both the mtere t of crunch and of the vegetable' naturII

Anyone who's ever gotten a whiff of (re,h r pbern

been immediately transported back to one's chtlJh
yard, happily pulling the berries off a bush, knows that food can mJee tngger memories and emotions and other subjective connotations.
Certain holidays are inextricably linked with certain (0 d, lIch a
Thanksgiving with turkey, Christmas with eggnog, and Valentme' Day With
chocolates. Chocolate is one of several foods ranging from champagne to
oysters which have a long history as suspected aphrodiasiacs, credited With
stimulating romantic feelings. The question of whether there IS an actual,
physical effect on the body that takes place upon consuming such food~, or
whether the power of suggestion is enough to stimulate such (eeling , is

Emotions

moot.
In addition, ingredients may have as ociations that are cultural. JeanGeorges Vongerichten recalls the time he was cooking at an up~cale hotel
restaurant in Bangkok and tned to add a pineapple tart to the menu. "It created a scandal," he recalls. "At the time, pineapple wa considered food eaten
only by the poor." Vongerichten was a ked to substitute apple tart on the
menu, despite the (act that apple were neither local nor fresh.
(If the above cenarioound- far-fetched, then it should be remembered that at one point in United ~rate history, lob;,ter was considered likeWI e, leading to the pa .'age of legi,btion regulating how often loh;,ter c(1uld
be forced u n pn oner and ery lOt !)
~ me

cui lUre have dhtmct \\ 3), of thinking about fllmiliar mgredlent . For example, the ChlOe e culture ha~ cia ified certain fll~l Is as either
ym or ran!? Ym re er to the p

Ive, negatl\'C universal energy force, cncllm-

TRADITIO. 'AL HOLIDAY DI HE

Halula'!
Valentine' Da

t. Patnek' Day
Easter

Fourth of July
Thanksgiving

Chn tmas

T)plcaI DI he
Aphro<h

ill

like canar, chocolate, loh rer, o} ter

Cabbage, corned beef

Ham, hard-bollL-d gg, lamb
Barbecue, trawberry hortcake
Cranberry auce, rna hed poratl'le , pumrkm pi
tuffmg, \l,eet potae , turkey
Chn tma puddmg, c lOlct ,eggn g ,
phea nt, r t beef, Y; rk hire puJdm

Bl0TIVE CONNOTATIONS OF VA RIOUS FOODS

"'mOl II

tic

Arhr ,d1S1 K

Pnnu!
:

C halleHl!mg:

gnlled ,teak
caviar, champagne, cmnamon, cloves, game, ginger,
lohter, morel>, nutmeg, offal, oysters, pepper, ,affron,
truffles, \'anilla
anchovie,; stinky cheese
creamy mashed potatoes

E,uthy:

grilled mushrooms

Femmme:

fruit, tlramisu
thick-cut steak or chops

PLl\-tul :

lamb's tongue with lamb', lettuce

ra\'io h

pa~smg foods such as sugar; yang denote the actin!, positive force, encom-

passmg food~ uch as chiles.

In another example, Asian cultures hd\'e an'lh':ed and c,lteg\lri:ed various tla\'l)[S and food tuff, relating them [0 the (l\'e ba,1C elemt:nh.
Bmeme s, along \\'ith ingn:dlent' like lpn at , mutton, Lmd ..: Ilion, b a"()ciated With the element of fire . nd the ea n f ummer, which rcpre ent,
growth. weeme's, and mgredlent ltk beet an date . I as 0 I ned \\ Ith the
element oi earth and the 1.'.1 on ot In han ,ummer, aid to repr nt tr.1Il formati In. Pungenc\', and ingredient' ranglIlg fr )m OIllon tt: pedche , IS a
1ared With the element of metal .md the elan f, lItumn, md to repre t: nt
h<l[\'e,t. Saltine", and such Il1greJllnt b hearn, green, an I pork, I ,\ Jel, ted \\ Ith the element of Welter. and the e on ot \\ IOter. a tlml or wrage.
And ,oume " along with ingn:dlem like lee'. lum and
ultry, lrC a
clateJ With the clement 01 \\'l I Lmd the e >n f nn', lid to rcpre ent
birth,
Be~ond thl'. Lertall1 food, eem to trigger more uhltmlIlal
i tl n.
"Ravlo\t connote a certam pla)fulne , nJ m, t~cmatt()n \\ Ith them probabl~ extenJ tar beyond the fact th t i e d to eat them d a chtll," a~
Wa)ne , 'I h. "It' the Imle pack.d~e ,the urpn e; It' Itke bemg 'I little kid at
Chn trna time, geltlng a little rack I~e mJ eclng \\hat' in Ide."
Food 1 a medIUm rIch \\ Ith potential for Cl.lmmUllIcaun ' In man~ dlfferem \\a \\lth the per n \\h I eat It-I! 1 cullllal) ani t h
t learn
k the lan.!u ge'
nd t

Valentine's Day Menu

Februar y 14, 1996

Barbecued Rabbit Turnovers

Smoked Oyster Canapes

A Demitasse of Sweet Red Bell Pepper Soup

Two Eggs in an Egg

(Cat:iar and Scrambled Eggs in an Eggshell)

Natil,:e Rockfish Roasred with Whire Wine, Tomato, and Black Oli'l.'es
on Toasted Couscous

Grilled Quail With Homemade Blackberry Vinegar
on a Crispy Potato Galerte

Pear and Pepper Sorber u1th PoiTe \X'ilham

Rack of Baby Lamb on Roasted. leu PotatOe
ulth Pearl Barle) and \X lid iu hroom

A MlIlIatllre CroqHe 10nsleur

on Field Greens u rth pled Walnut

e Coeur a la Creme U1th Ra pberry Sauce

Warm Chocolate Cake U Hh Roasted Banana Ice Cream

A 1ascarpone Chee

Cojfee or Tea
Chocolate Bonbon

Th

c en e f ingredients-which encom,

pas e thelr appearance, aroma, and texture

as well a' their flavor-is the starting point

of all cuisme. Culinary artists go to great

lengths to understand their ingredients as

well as possible-everything from their his~

torical ongms and uses to exactly how

they're grown or raised.

Only when you

under tand and

respect the essence of an ingredient can

you properly come to enhance it- flavor

through cooking. This takes place m two
pnmary ways: through the application of
cooking techniques which erve to c hange

c:::

._

en

(and, one hopes, enhance) the char cten tiC of n

perfe t mgredlents
ingredient, and through combmmg fla\ or h rm Ferrand POint mously and even synergistically with other ingredient whose properties serve to enhance one another.
But the best cooking of all is when ingredients taste like them elve . A
culinary artist must respect the essence of ingredient, and take care to choo e
those of the highest possible quality.
"There's a lot more to it than just learning how to cook well, and then
cooking," says Jasper White. "A lot of what determines the qualtty of the
final product ha to do with buying-what you buy, and what your ::.tanould be tl10se of

dards are."
Jean-LoUIs Palladin agrees. "The products we use are all importantand we only use top-level products," he say. "When you've got a perfect fi h,
it' a crime to kill it and hide it! However, thi. is nor a 'ushi re taurant,O we
have to do something to it, but we take cme to give it the flavor the fi. h
deserves. "
"Great co lkin!! really ha" a lot to j() With how perfect the ingredient,
are," a) Johanne Killeen. Her hu h.md ,md coukmg partner George
Germon Jump In \\lth an e.'ampl . "T.lkc I Ir ley from the m,Hket, and then
take par I) ut of UT \\ mdo\\ III f cl 1 nt, nd ll"t:~ them Side by Side.
You'll dl ver th dlfi eren e," h \\e r . "After a fe\\ Jay .It the upermarket, It till I
nd It till cert 101 h t.l te, ut \\ hen you take It (Iff
a plant nd JU t U It n ht \\ ,th rt:' n
mp n n." Ktllecn .d I , "Once
b k uu{ thmg th.lt ha\'c n me. Ll If
It' I t th til ... ~ U

he with, nly d \.'\\ mgredl~nt, then

wn. Ea It h I
he g(1 I by It elL"
c mmument to > n Ilt~ and
th II 111 ,lOd
the
I I In redl n , ulmdr}. rtl t Jitter
do m th \' ~ th y pro h the pr e
f c mp) IOtnt of c n III 1 n. There I cerof ere ttvlty that I
a ch (
1 d pte.
I
tl n to f tnl 11e
ut h or,
I

ectlO the
much

taml no c
neath fr m

U ,

.... e don't mean t) ug 'e t ne In r enttn Ie dmg eh 'Idea on the [ pi

dl eu d an chron I ~ of our own d \I mg-th t ( tartmg .... tth rh
malic t elemen (the com
iuon f t1 "l)r ) contanumg thrt u h their c rnhmatlon mto c mposed JI he nd menus-but It'
g
.... U} ) .... 1m \\
of to tart!

A MaHer of Taste

Both the r t\( n nd th enJ rn nt f

center ar un th p tat Th
UT tl3S1C ld~V'
that can be per elve on the ton ue ar we t, It, ur mJ bitt r

ut. "In Chma, there are five-there's also 'hot.' In southeast

la, th re' .11'0 'aromatic.' There's also 'pungent'-something like fish paste
\\ hlCh I not ur or bitter. but its sour. bitter, sweet, and salty."
~ary Danko mentions yet another "fifth flavor": "It's called umami.
Tne be-t \\ a\' to Illutrate it would be the taste of the combination MSG and
\\ater. Thoe are amino acid-like protems. Or another example would be to
fut a raW O\ter in your mouth. The feel or taste is of the sort of numbness in
your mouth. It's hard ro describe.
"If 'ou close your nose when you start to eat, those five flavors are the only
things you can taste," says Danko. "A pure taste is something that goes from your
palate to your brain immediately, Without going through your olfactory sensors
and then filtenng up. It' an immediate ensation from tongue to brain."
How can chefs use this knowledge to improve their cooking? "You hear
a lot about balancmg the four points of the tongue," says Danko. "There are
people who ay, 'If you just add more lemon JUICe, you won't need so much
alt.' But I would disagree with that. I look at it more as a balance-you need
a little bit of thi , and a little bit of that, and these are all essential in satiatIng you. You can leave a huge meal 'hungry' if your palate was not atiated.
On the other hand, you can be atl fied With Ie ... food if you've had good, balanced flavor coming Into your m uth."
In thmking about food, cook houlJ 1m to become can, lOU, of what\
going on in a particular dt h. Wlllch 10 rediem r contnhutin J t the dish's
weetne ,or Inne ,or ur on , r bitter n te ? Thr u_h un 1er t,mding
a particular ingredient' fla' r pr
r t I . a he can m re exp Ttly h. nJle
that ingredient and c mhme It \\ Ith ther, hem w re
,he t the ingredient I contributing

to (

dl h.

I ch, ngeThe natur

u
rmm r \\ mgr It!nt . . m w ~ that m
tml:e n
nl fla\'or but en)o ment. Ther r two pnm r. w } t I thl:
thr u_h the ppltc non 0
tim, I c
10 0 echnt u , n thr u h
h rm III u
mbmatlon 0 tl3\; r. \X'lule It c n be lea ur ble t e t. perfect
ra\\ carrot, for exam Ie, 10 h mtddl
winter It n be even m re tI rytn to e t th t am carr t h t, perhap
ure or a up. An th
wh
en) y he tlav r of \.:. rr t may flO It e\ en m re appealin
d ttl n
p t f butter, or quee:e a lem n or orange.
h f mu take the e n e
n 10 re(hent lOt
Idln wh t to 0 WIth It It t \ Ital or che t bcr n.... " nllllar With
Iff, rent t hnl
Ium d I r
c
UI tn "

Affec ing Flavors

n r

Ihl

the process of cooking changes the flavor and textur

avors but we do not have the fight of the ingredients being cooked.
to destroy therr;
Take sugar, for example, which 1 a recogntzable
--,Ioel Robuct)OI
flavor in and of itself. Yet if it is heated to a certain
.
't wtll begin to brown and
melt- the process of carameitzatlon
pomt,
1
"
Through the application of cookmg techmques to sugar alone, new flavors
and textures can be created.
The same is true for nuts. Taste a walnut fresh from its shell. Then toast
some walnuts in the oven, or in a saute pan, until they begin to brown slightly, and you'll find that a deeper flavor and crunchine are released. Toa tlng
may also increase the perceived bitterness of walnuts as well as of aromatics
such as caraway or mustard seeds.
Roasting, on the other hand, can increase the sweetness of a dish
through the carmeltzatlon process. "There's omething called the 'Maillard
effect' that occur when the natural sugars in food are exposed to high temperatures in the pre ence of aCid, which reult in a natural carmeli:ation,"
explain Jimmy chmidt. "When you roa t thing like garlic or on ions, it creates broader flavor with more depth than the mgredlents would have raw or
even cooked at a lower temperatun::. Through roa ring, certain gelatinous
vegetable_, uch
hallot and p.1r mp', break down. giving the dish a nawrally rich mouth-! el."
Techmqu a
tnt nly th ctu I flav r hut abo the perceived flavor of a I h. F rex mpl ,heatln
n increa e Ib perceIved weetne s,
whIle chlllm It mak I
eeme
er eptthle. A a ca c m point, the
mIxture a ut to be poured Into n Ice ere III maker often tastes unbearahly
weer. HO\ ever, once fro:en Into I e cre m, the arne ingredients taste merely plea ntly weet.
A partl ular mgre Icn n I char tcn ttl: wtll metlme~ ug 'e t u~e
of a particular re hOlque. "If )OU have perfect I h rcr, you prob hly J n't want
to do anythmg m re than bOll r team It," ay J per White. "But If y IIr lobter aren't fabulous, au [TIl ht want to tum them into a bISque. To get the
m t flavor out of the lob ter, I ' not mg to c me fr m the meat, which
might be bland that particular time of year; It' g 109 to c me from I wly Immenng the carcasse and makmg a really tron br th With them. And If th
season IS prmg, and it' chilly, wup I appropnate. Plu~, lob rer I an exp Ive
mgredlent, and makmg a soup with it i a great wa~ to tretch It "
Different bnds of fl h lend them lye to different rneth
tion. "You can't gnll black cod, for example, lr Chtlean
fall apart," explatn Mary ue MIlltken and u an Fem cr. "But the 'r
rh
great pan- eanng fl h. It' Just that their re ture I n t n hr r h nil nd
you'd I
all that JUice, mee the} 're th JUlq fl h. Tun n
f h re
k

we hav, the nght to enhance or

Ir' Import.mt to u,e mgredlents In the way they are most naturally suited J .1 lum ~rlachal point~ out th,lt there are more than forty different types
f porat e . "Mt ~t cu,wmer are only familtar with Idaho and Red Bliss," he
,3Y- "I u e Yukon Golds exclusively for mashed potatoe" for example,
f:,ecau,e of their texture an~ golden color. And I'll use fingerlings [tiny potatoe the 'I:e of a fingertip] toralads."

Utilizing Kitchen Tools

Even the particular kitchen equipment

used can affect the flavor of the finbhed product. Gray Kun: uses only the freshest herbs, and wants the same
fre~hne~~ from hiS pices. "That's why we grind all our spices at the restaurant,
u:mg a ,mall coffee grinder." says Kun:.
~dark Peel believe" that using simple tools often results In better food
than b po~ible from high-tech gadgets. "If you take exactly the same recipe
and }OU make pesta or an aiolt with a CUI<inart, and then 'ou make it with
a mOrl:ar and pe,tle. they're completely different," explains Peel. "You can
,ee-and ta.'te-the difference.
"In a CUlsinart. when garltc come 10 contact With the air, YllU get bitteme '. The air 1 reactm~ \\ ith [he JUIce of the g, ritc, whIch re,ults m a
_harpnc . With a mortar and pc tIc, you're not gcttm!! the heat [fwm the
motor of the CUI mart]. The ~arlic.. tm continual!} C Mred WIth olive oil.
and you're not incorporaWH! Ir tnto It. In a CUI mart, you're II1Cotl'orating
so much au into It, y u're maklOP a mou .!" For th t rcru n. Illortdr;, and
pestle are t Ie tn Campantle' kit hen. The re tc urant tnrlke till it'> (lwn
mayonnai e, for example, u m' a m rwr nd e tie.
"A lot of tim' pl: pi Will u e burr miXer lu "llendcr-on-a- [J k"l for
pureem thm~ ," y Peel. hit' r II) t, ,",ut }ou're better oft u ing a luad
mill. It takes lon_cr, and It' I (me ler, but u end up with .1 better pro Iuet. The food mill \\111 take fiber ut, \\hll the r.urr tnllcer JU l c.hop It up.
When makln!?, for in rance, m.! h d potalOC cl ~
mill I e erma\. With a
. The < nule of t< reh, wlHeh
burr mixer, the)
have been puffed up In the
watcr, re till mra t. If you burrmix It, ) ou bre k them 0 en,
nd it rum (he texture.
"We u e to m Ike a fl h
Up that \\
Imo t
lilli.lbal ,c nd \\C \\ould burr-miX
I , then p3
It {hr HI .h
~,oo
mill, b It e'd Ie 1\' > m t
ur behtn
The burr-IOI In
L

released a lot of the flavor from the lobster sh ells, and then the food mill
meant that we could extract the juice and th e larger fibers, yet leave enou~h
behind to give the soup density."
Travel prov ides opportunities to learn and be
Global Techniques inspired by n ew techniques, even for seasoned
chefs. George German experiments with A sian techniques within the realm
of the Italian-inspired cuisine served at Al Forno. "If something has a \inegar and oil base, generally the process would be to cook it in oil first, and then
add vinegar afterward . But I'll do a flip-flop of that---cooking in vinegar fiN
keeps a real sprightly texture, and then I'll just dress it with oil at the very
end. It gives a whole different spirit to the dish .
"I think that what appeals to me most about A sian technique is locking in the flavor, and their methods for doing that," says German. "That's
what got me to start thinking, If they can do it in th eir cooking-which I feel
i5 so close to Italtan-then why sh ouldn't we be applying the same principles?
Why does something have to be cooked for h ours and h ours and hours, when
it can be cooked for a much ~horte r time and h ave more flavor to it? We just
try to take different approaches to our food. "

Rick Bayless on Combining Mexican Flavors

BaSically, Mexican flavor fall intll.
that are ba ed on fresh chile.

ourle of Careg me : tho

tho t .H\.' ha~ed on dried chile" and tho~e

Dried Chile Flavors: Because of the natu[\:: of the drYIng proce .lOd \Ihat it inremifies, a cert.lin kind
of fruitiness is drawn out, thi dned-fruit frultine . TI1en thtlt' balclOccd .Igalmt a lot of other t1a\'()f~ that
range from bitter, like unsweetened chocolate or an almost rohdcco-Itke hirterne.,s, to a rea l fru itl!1e like
the kind you'd get in a dried tomato. When 'ou mix all of that klOd of ,tuff together, you've (!ot really
deep. rich flavor. That's the ba I f.l "hole categol) of MeXican dishe . Almust .l lway' , e\'el)thll1!.! in
thi categol)' is toasted before tt' used, which add another dimen lon, ,mother level uf compleXity to the
flavor. Clearly, when you're working with dried chile, there are some pretty untamed t1av,m JI1 there I
\\ell, ) you have to work with those and figure out how to balance them or play them down nr JI1 orne
ca ~ eliminate them by, for example, soaking the chile and then thnm ing away the soak ing water.
Becau e thi is uch a major category of Mexican flavor, it's where I pur a lot ot my ,lttentlon,
he au e I want to draw out a much of the flavor as I can from the chile and e1ab< fate on th,H \I Ithout
tf) 109 to und It in any .... ay. I really capture the very pint of the flavor the chile ha to offer \\Ith ut
th t It bee me
mpr ml 109 It In an} way. A lot of chef might tl) to elimmate a lot of it flavor
I) untl hut then J thmk }ou\e reall} mi ed the point of the chile. We try to really let th m he

Jc,hanne Killeen points out that "In Asia, when poaching a chicken,
,omen me' It will be left: out to air-dry, ~o that the skin becomes really crisp.
SOJllerill1e~ thev'll deep-fry it, but we'll do something like poaching it, drying
If bnet1y, dnd then roastmg it-and that produces a really crispy, crispy skin
anci a <UI:culent interim that is really juicy."
Jean -Louis PallaJin says he was inspired by the best duck of his life at
the Empress Room when traveling through Asia. "I ate there five times in a
tl)W," he says. "Unfortunately, I don't have the ovens that they have there,
where they can leave the duck for hours to cook, painting it with sauce until
it turns golden. Then they served only the skin of the duck!"
Living and working in Asia is also what Jean-Georges Vongerichten
credits with "waking up" different flavors for him. While flavored oils have
been around for hundreds of years, Vongerichten says he enjoyed experimenting with oils and different spices: "It was new to see parsley oil." When
hL cusromers started watching their waistlines and cholesterol levels more
closely, Vongerichten took the beurre blanc with parsley puree off the grilled
scallops he served, replacing it With a lighter parsley oil.
Gray Kun: credits his multiracial staff at Lespinasse with influencing
his experimentation with flavors and ingredients fmm around the world. "My

what they are but yet, at the same time, put their he t foot forward. And that sometimes comes in the
way that we prepare them-the initial tep~ of preparation are in the toasting and the soaking--or it
might come in the way that we cook them. There' a very tandard method for cooking dried chiles
where a puree i' made out of them, and then that' cooked in a very hot pan with just a little bit of oil
in it 0 you're searing it and reducing it. When it' reduced to a really thick paste, at that point you can
add tock and bring it up to a brothy or auce-like consi tency. That's one of the way we work with that
(category ot] flavor. There' a kind of triumvirate that run through a lot of tho e di he : black pepper,
clove, and cinnamon, although sometime the cinnamon will be replaced with a little bit of cumin.
And then alway garlic.
Fre h Chile Flavors: On the flip ide, the fre h chile flavor are typically associated with things like
lime and cilantro, and they're much ea ier to work with. When they're the really mall chile, frequently they're not cooked, so you get a lot of gras ine out of them. You're thinking more in terms of heat
and harpne ; obviou ly, if you're balancing them with cilantro and lime, you're ju t underscoring even
more the brashne they can offer. When you get into the larger chile , like poblanos, u ually they're
roasted, which turns the flavor from grassy to more like a deep, rich herb like rosemary or even a hint of
the flavor you get in very green olive oil. It' more a vegetal flavor than it IS a fruit flavor. When you're
dealang with fre h chiles, garlic i usually replaced by raw onion-and it' alway white onion, never yell ,because It has a much cleaner, bnghter flavor than the yellow one do.

so us chef is from India and brings in ideas from traditional Indian cookm!(."
he says.
Terrance Brennan credits his stint at Gualtiero Marchesi, a MIChelm
three-star restaurant in Italy, with teaching him the importance of prepanng
pasta from scratch. "It was there that I learned that if you add more egg yolk
to the pasta dough, it results in a richer-tasting pasta," says Brennan. "Now
we make our own pasta at Picholine, to ensure a fresher taste." Picholine
serves no flavored pastas, except an occasional black pasta made from squid
ink: "All the other flavors cook out in the pasta-making process, and all
you're left with is the color," he explains.
Brennan was also inspired to bring the same perfectionism to his preparation of risotto, which some consider to be among the best in the city. The
secret to risotto? "When risotto sits around, whether it's half-cooked or not, it
starts to break down. So it's only done to order. And the rice I use IS very
important-it's a semi-fino, as opposed to arborio, which is a fino. So it's a larger grain, with a harder core to it. It's what the Venetians use, although they
make a more soupy risotto and I keep it tighter. I like it because it's very hard
to overcook, ince it has a yery hard center. It's creamy, and I like the way it
stays together in your mouth when you eat It. There's even a larger grain,
called camaroli, which when It cook up ha . the grains stay very separate, but
I Just didn't like the feel on the palate. ~ orne chefs may think it's uperior to
the semi-fino I u~e, but I don't think o. I think tt'~ a matter of taste."
It I important for chef~ to hone their knowledge and judgment of technique~o that they can he effectlve 10 ..levI ing new approaches to wiving
cui mary dilemma. One clever \~W York City cafe, trYlOg to devise a low-fat
way to cook eggs, stuck a bowl )f raw, beaten eggs under the node of their
cappucino m, chlOe\ mdk ~teamer. The steamed crambled eggs have since
become one \If the retaurant' ;,rectalty hreakfa~t Item.
Dieter chorner 3Y, "Chef~ need to thmk ahout what It I, neces~ary
to do ro get the effect that rhe} want, or to make thlOg, better. For example,
I make tarte Tatin [carmeltzed apple tarr]. In France, the apple Bre cooked
with rhe cammel, with a cru~t on top. But the drple needs to ~team, wlllch
uually make~ the cru,t oggy. 0 I learned to cook the Cfu"t ,epa ratel}, wirh
aluminum fot! on top, which re.,ult tn a CTiSP cnlst. An old French chef onLe
a ked me, 'Wh~' do you cook the cru r like that? oix)Jy J Ot'5 It Itkc that In
France!' And I aid, 'That's right. But If I c lpy e"erything I ce ex Icrlr. chen
I don't have a hrain!'"

[Ill. in Jean-George:; Vongen hten'

piniOn, flavor I p r mount O\ er

"pr per" rechntque. "If my cooks make < Inl t.lke on memtn tel-hOi I. I
clo e m\ }e ," he a} . "But If the} make a Int take ~Ith
mn ,I ~ 11 11
night."

Cooking Technique and Altenlati e

\Vhen usmg culinary techni4ue~, chef~ ~hould ca mider alternative to the
usual methods that might result m more intere~tin~ flaq)rs or texture:
Breading

Instead of ordinary bread crumbs. consider using:

buckwheat
pecans, crushed
plantains. crushed

Dredging

Instead of flour. consider using:

cornstarch
Cream of \</heat
rice flake:
water chestnut t10ur

Skewering

Thickening

Instead of ,imrie wooden ~kewers, c\.)n~ider usmg:

rosemary branches
ugar cane
In-te. d f t1our, cormtarch. ( r amlwrlxlt. elm,iLler

Llsing:

H
l--re. d
butter
(,mot . pureed
c.ream

c ml, hellf. h

e g yolks
garlic, roa ted and pureed
In tant m hed potato flake
nut, ground
pecans, ground
potatoe , pureed
roux

toes with un-dried tomatoe In order to give a different pm ro (he (Om.lt O

flavor In a di h. The ame pnnciple applie when a iding corn kernel r" corn
bread. or featuring chocolate Jesscn with multiple ch colate .sinKe .
.
In the ame vein. Gary Danko illu trate how the tlwOf oi apple (; 10 f,e
Inten. ifled to enhance a duck JI h. "You want to get the , pple , I .:t frUit, [ )
be a little more avo!). That would be accompli hed by Itght1~... ,king [hem
until they tan to caramelize. You want to dc\clop that fl avor ,I \\ ell I ""I.:

..

the aprle dUring thb -rage," he ~a .~. "When they're done caramdi:mg, you
I"ht wire all the fat out of the pan-horefully, it's a nonstick pan-and
me
.
then deda:e It WIth a little bit ot Calvados and some apple cider in small
quantl tie ', bnngmg it down to a gla:e. Again, you're gomg to get that next
-reI' of carameli:atlon. With every step of caramelization, you're going to get
more I1a\'or. "
~bry Sue Milliken recalls the process of experimenting with the ingre,hent~ tnvolved in making "the world's best lan," as Susan Feniger describes
it. and achie\'ing exactly the right milky taste. "First we used sweetened conden,ed milk. Then we used whole milk. Then we eventually used nonfat milk
reduced 50 percent to which we added sugar," Milliken says. "When we make
the lan with It, it has the most incredible rich, milky flavor. But we've spent
nine year~ working on it."

Enhancing Flavors

Bradley Ogden finds that too many cooks

overreach their abilities when It comes to

combining ingredients. "If most cooks would just try to enhance the natural
flavor that are already there, they'd be a lot better off," he ays. "Some of
them don't have the education or the palate to pull thing, off. Imtead of
keeping thing, implified, they create a mi,hma h of fla\'or~ and tastes and
texture, and countries, and you don't know what you're eating by the time it's
all done."
"Sea oning should not kill the ra~te; it hould enhance the fla\'or of the
mgredient:' ay Dieter Schomer. "If you're eating fi,h, it hould ,mell and
ta te ltke the fish-not, for example, like you're eat 109 Ju,taffron. I found
that in ~ome French kitchen~ there would be .0 much ltqueur u,ed in desserts
that it wa almo,t all you could ta te."
It is often the role of sea. on 109 and herb~, uch a ~alt and lemon, to
enhance the essential flavor of ingredienb. " alt's potency In heIghtening
the ta te of food i. unmatched," wnte Edward Behr in hI book The Artful
EateT " alt deepen' flavor anJ to an extent unite, them, and It balance
aCl(.lity and weetness, helping to re_tore equilibrium when they nre in
exce '."
It b important to u e proper techntque when ea.,onmg WIth alt, which
will affect the flavor. "Different food., call for different method of air 109,"
points out Gary Danko. "For example, with thmg ltke meat and fillet that
have been trimmed down to the bare muscle, I cook them, let them re t, and
w~lle they're re ting [ salt them. [n a I:rraisee, you would ea on your liqUId
ltghtly because thtre I an exchange between the juice of the meat and the
uce, and they eventually become one. [f you're cookmg ay, trout, you're
gomg to salt it fir t, then flour it."
'

I!]IO

ot parad, e

carJ.1 1110 111

(ll..~\ es
h(lr,cr'ld,~h

capers
ddl
lel110n
mu,rarJ

Juniper bcrnes
albplce
garlic
mafjoram
pepper. black
ro,emary
h\t;nder
narlic

muo;t.lrd
caper,
fennel
honey
turmeric
ni"ella
...
allspice
coriander
savory
thyme

nutmeg
allspice
cmnamon
cloves
cumm
gmger

r< \"\t'm.lr-y

garlic
oregano
parsley
sage
thyme
saftron
basil
chives
cmnamon
cloves
coriander
cumm
fennel
garlic
glnger
mint
par,ley

lemonura s
ch tie,
cdantro
conanJer
garlic
peprer,
,hallDt,

orange
cumm
oregano
ba~d

cmnamon
cumm
g<lrlic

ha,11

par,lt:y
,a\"0f)
thyme

cilantro
cinnamon
dill
nutmeg
par.,lc\
chyme

par In
ha,il
hay leaf
cht:rnl
chive,

marjoram

Jill
mmt
ba'll
(.hocolate
Cilantro
conander

,ulte
p r Ie)

garlic
nregano
thyme

~lge

anchovy
oarhc
par,ley
r cmar)
rhyme

anise
cassia
cmnamon
~tar

"zechuan rCpplr
cassia
gmger

tam<lrind
curry
tarragon
chervil
garlic
oregano
parsley
thyme
thyme
hasil
hay leaf
chervil
dill
marjoram
mint
oregano
parsley
sage

as afra
.I11'plce
anre
chde~

pepper, hlack
C

iii n

hme

hallut
wme
orrel
chl\lCS
orccano
parsley
thyme

turmeric
mu,tarJ
\ .10

ilia

caramel
chocol.lte
cmn,lm n
c()Conur

n>ffee
rum

lots in it, so that It' aim t

sh allot sauce that'., macera ed In
vmegar With some oltve 011
added and black pepper, and ['1\
spoon that over it. 0 you're
constantly making thoe kinc6 of
considerations and evaluations.
Every day, these thing~ change."
Chns Schlesinger believes
that when experimenting with
spices, A mericans are at a disadvantage. H e says, "We don't have a lot of
experience working with spices. If you go to Mexico, Central America, the
Middle East, India, they use a tremendous amount of pices, and there are
developed ways to use spices, developed combinations of spices, all orts of
precedent. In India, the skill and attention and detail that go into the buying, handlmg, toring, combining, and cooking of plces IS on a par With a

"Flavor Cliques"
There are ome gr up of "fla\'OT pal" that are . 0 fond of one another that
they hang out w_emer in cltquc, nd the eli IUC have become so popular as
ro ment their O\\!TI nam :
Bagna cauda: It !tan for "hot bath"-a aucc of olive otl, hutter, salt, pepper, anchovi and lemon :e [, t} picully erved with vegetahle
I

Bouquet gami: hay leaf, par Icy, thyme

Chinese fit'e-spice J>o,'der: <:'1 1<1 or cmnamon: clove , fagara,
fennel, tar ani e
Fines herbes: chervil, chive, par ley, aod tarra!! n
Gremolata: garlic, par ley, lemon :c t, anchovie

Herbes a Tortue: ha d, chervil, fennel, marjoram,

vary

Mirepoix: carrot, celery, Onton

Spanish picada: garlic, par ley, and

(fr n ~round Volth almond or plOenu

Quatre-Epices: cloves, mger, nutmeg, p pp r

Tunisian fi..'c- pice mix: cmnamon, d v,

f p:: r d

,nurm ,pepper

When leading chef experunCnt

with flavor, ttl hnng Out th
ones that will tantali:e us most, how do they approach the challenge?
Hubert Keller starts with a recipe on paper. "If you think ahout it, }ou
can combine the flavors in your mind and envision how someth ing \\111 ta.:;te ,"
he says, refernng to an ability that comes easier to more experienced chet".,.
Given the direction toward lighter food that Keller sees as having influenced
cooking over the last decade, he also likes to demonstrate that food, even old
combinations, can be updated. "Lamb has traditionally been served With a rich
red wine sauce," he points out. "Now I do it with a Med ot. Today when you
say Medot, everybody jumps! The Merlot has a hint of vanilla flavor in it, and
instead of using butter to add richness and flavor to the sauce, 1add ~ome fresh
vanilla, which empha I:es the \'3Oilla flavor In the Medot."
The next step for Keller is trying out his ideas on the line of hi restaurant kitchen. ''I'll prepare the dish and taste it to find out if it works. Then
the eye come~ In-I'll made a drawing, tllutrating how to display the garnishes for the dl,h on the plate. ThL might take four or five , even six, tries.
Finally, I'll tl) it out on orne good cu,Wmer, and see what they think. I've
got cutomer who are open enough w ,l)' to me, 'Well, It'S not my favome .. .'
That\ when It' IInporWnt for a chl.J en be fle.ible enough to either change a
dl,h or take It off the menu complerel~ if it\ not ri!.!ht."
Jo~ce G 1 tem ay, "I nl~ know methmg\ right when I eat it and
It' complete m m m uth-an i \\ hen other people eat It, they get It. I'm
coming out \nth
k c, lie Kitchen Cont'crsatlOn thar will ask read-

Experimenting with Flavors

"Flavor Enemies"
While fl:.l\or p:.I1 (.an't e t'nou hoc ch other, f1JWlr enernit.: are (lnc that \ Oll
pr b bI} don't want to mVI e m 0 rhe me dl h, unit: YOIl do 0 \\ tth gn.'4l t Lirt'!

bd iI

\\ mc

.:hll

,lC1JI C to"J,

rrichokc

tarra on

d p,lra 'U'

aulcrn",

chO<..ol.m~

chocolate

t:ort mdcr

Cltru frUi

h [, I'lcy food
ICC ere m

M (,
[( matot:

larrag( n

58

t other her

one the '" e cooked a

rec.pe. Are ou there )et? Did
you get what )OU were aiming
for. What were the element you
were playmg with? If you like
bitterne how do you play it up?
How do you keep the plate in
balance without going over the
edge and getting too bitter? If
you like harpness, or acidity,
how do you keep that in the forefront
too tart and
killIng everything else? It help to think about why you like certain dishes.
Why are you playing in this ballpark? Why are you interested in that? Certain
things are texture, certain things are taste-when you play with them, the
whole becomes more than the urn of the parts. That's when you've hit it."
According to Jean-louis Palladin, a chef works exactly like a painter.
"You start with the basics, and build the painting you want," he say. "After
thiry-seven years in the kitchen, I can make matches pretty well." Palladin
adds, too modestly. "I can see in my mind the matching without even ta ting
it. Of course, I alway try it and taste it fIrst. and I may change it a little bit.
But 95 percent of the time. it' a wInner."

Gary Danko on Cooking with Wine

Because we're a restaurant of the caliber that serves expensive wmes, all
the food here has to be more delacate.
we'll never do, for example, a
Moroccan dISh In Its authentically hot-bot-hot seuorung, but I'll use the
same flavor principles and balance the dish more delacately so that It can
actually work here.
Wane and artichoka l f t very difficult to match. 1be way you would
deal WIth that to use the artichoka as a gamiIh an a dish, but you would
have a J2 ore that would make the bridte betAUn the dish and the wtne.
AIparaaus and wine aren't the best of frienda. although you can use the
Ii , character of a Sauvignon Blanc to match that il fIt character of the
IPpDI'W Ifl had to march a wme WIth a.1 would put .mcbee CODlpOOetlt
Into the dish. maybe IOQte crumbled p t d r eM', and work &OID chat poult
of III!II1Cb. and thea put a ~ OIl It which would 10ft of lubckatr or
. . 'Itt that diRct ' - ' iae t It', And, ClUIIe ....aId,t via po'"
wilw doOt
7 h. But tIwa lie R Jrr Jila
Iw csie Wi).
which...
lor of ....
-U - with .....iawAuelH
Lt.
I,
m

wouldn't know where to begm or how to have

. " says G eorge Germon . "Similarly, cooks say they want freedom In
reaCtion,
't makes me chuckle. 1 know they'd fall apart
h en, and L
" wLthout the
th e k LtC
S thev need reference po ints to build on .
structure. Th e truth L"
Johanne Killeen agrees. "In the worlds ~f art or architectu~e, yo~ alwil)'
have a reference point for whatever it is you re creatmg. If you re bULldlng a
house, for example, and you want it square, there will be one wall that LS your
reference point and you'll take all your measurements from that one wall,"
she says. "Likewise, Italy is our reference point in our cooking."
"And within that structure, we make our own rules," adds German.
"But it's good to have that reference point. It keeps us in foc us. It's extreme_
ly important to have a philosophy in cooking; it even helps build tru t among
your employees, who begin to see that there is a rationale beh ind your critique of their food, that there's something specific you're goin g after."
Where does a dish originate? It starting point, or reference point, can
be anything! It might stem from the request of a customer to satisfy a particular craving. Or from the arrival of the ea on's first bounty--of produce, of
wine-which demands a dish that celebrates it. Or from a chef who may wish
to expenment With a particular technique, in a dish that employs it. A dish
can be created to achieve any of the~e ends, and at its best may ach ieve many
ends at once. One created pnmanly for nourishment. for example, wilt ideally also please the ta te bud~--even charm the Iopirit!
gUtd e Imeso Th e s t udents

Classic Dishes

hen -c<llIed cia ic di he fir.,t came into being

through a tartlng point. As Chris c hlesinger
points out, "Cia Ie dl he. uch a boutllah<ll e and Caesar salad, were not
indi\'idual dL he creared OLlt of people' mind; they were hased on thing,
that were already there, that ther h,ld to work with. The creativit y wa In the
interpretation of the ingredient, not ncce emly in choosing and interpreting
them. Often, creating a dL h L n t a trietly creative process-one hegmnlnf,:
with a blank late-but ne where you've got these ingredLents that you're
H'
moving around, and you're re earchlng what work:; together."
IStOry represents the roots of my CUtS
Cl-"
.
me
a LC dl h
tYPically con i t of combtna-Dar> el Sou ud
tions--of flavor, texture even aroma and c 1 r that hi tory ha been hard -pre e d to oller
rr'
,
Impn vernents upon . The ir h.Lvrn
stood the te t of time spe alU>
L_
h Iegance of theLf form, tn eomhtntng telfI
to tee
vors not only harmoniousl b
.
h
. .
Y ut, In many case, ynergi ttcally, uch (hi t t
whole I Indeed greater than the urn f th e Ind LVI dua I p res.
Other cia Le di he range from cas oulet to paella, fr In coq au un t

steak au poll'l"e . "I n each 0 f t hem, all the IngredLent that are tht: re r th r
for a reason-because they work," pomt out Terran e Br nnan Tht

,hl)uld b~ the aim

_ when composing new dishes-in Brennan's wmds, "A rea I
~olid , [~oughttul marriage of ingre~ients resulting in high-quality cooking."
RICk Bayless tends to agree. Too many people always worry about creattng something new," he believes. "I'm more interested in perfecting something for myself, and knowing it's perfect. Only then would I consider tweaking it. 'Mastering the classics' doesn't mean doing the same things the same
way they've always been done-it means making them exactly right for you
today. There's genius in those classic dishes that isn't always appreciated."
Researching classic dishes can inform chefs of those food matches that
history tells us are the most successful of all time and prevent them from having to start from scratch. Chris Schlesinger, like other leading chefs, looks to
the past when creating food for the present. "I was reading a book on pickling from the 1950s. These people pickled everything-even grapes! That's
what's so mind-blowing. You could name a decade and I could make a menu
from old cookbooks from that decade, using only those recipes, and customers
today would go, 'Wow-that's so creative! How did you think that up?' When
we first served plantains at the East Coast Grill, not a lot of people had seen
them and customers would say, 'Wow-these are unbelievable!' But plantains
are so common that they're eaten like French fries in a lot of other cultures.
"I was researching Brazilian cuisine and found that the northern part of
Brazd has a lot of diverse influences with the slaves from Africa. For example, there's a classic combmatlon of mgredlent.!>-tomatoes, peanuts, and
coconut milk-that's served in a relish, and I served it on some grilled lamb
in the restaurant. Customers went wild over it and asked me, 'How did you
ever think of combining those ingredIents?' I had to tell them that it' a classic dish of this region that' been prepared for hundred of year -."
Wayne N Ish recalls expenmenting with pasta blankets embedded with
herbs when he cooked at The QUIlted Giraffe. "ImmedIately afterward I came
across a reference of the same exact technique in one of [Giuliano] Bugialli's
books, which was referenced back to fourteenth century iena-l think that
was the first time the technique shows up in any cookbooks or records," says
N Ish. "So here I was, thinking I was domg thIS really neat new thing, only to
fmd out that there had been people rolling the same thing out by hand six
hundred yeac ago."
Where is the lme between
copying and findmg inspiratlon m a cUisine? And how far can that line be pu hed? Chris Sch lesmger
points out, "My food, while not exact dupltcatLOn, is true to the flavors and
mgredient of the culture that inspired It. If a dish i inspired by a dish that
I had m Th Iland, for example, It won't ha\"t:! any mgredients that can't he

Borrowing from the Classics

L nder tandim: a~ much as possible about a particular ingredient can

heir 111(, rill \\'h"t ro do with it and which other ingredients to combine it
with. m a kmd of culmary free -association. "If you're working with duck, and
\ou know that ducks eat grains, like corn, then you can serve a corn cake
wnh[Ole gras. because it's part of their environment. Serving grain with duck
goes back ro duck' and wheatfields," says Brennan. "It's game, it's fall, there's
mushrooms. The gaminess of game goes well with squash, because there's a
nice sweetness to it. I lmoe purees in the wintertime; they go really well with
game. So Just working with the seasons, you're half way there."
After startmg with the seasons, "Good taste leads you to combinations
that work," says Lydia Shire. She believes chefs can develop taste through
eat1l1g out in restaurants and experiencing firsthand which combinations are
pleaSlOg and which miss their mark.
}"llchael Romano agrees that "a chef has ro have taste in terms of knowing how ro put things together. As in every human endeavor, you can
improve to a certain extent through training and practice," he says. "But
beyond a certain level, you either have it or you don't. You can give two people the same budget and send them into a clothing store, and one will come
out looking like a frump and the other will look like a million dollars. The
difference is taste."
Classic dishes raise the questlon of recipe. Do It IS not Just a haphazard affair, a new dIsh. It is a
professlOnal chefs ever follow them? "I think they can pondenng on a new combination of tastes and
be likened to traming wheels," say ' Romano. "If you then a reconcJ/tatlOn with a techntcal base.
follow a good recipe carefully, you ~hould be able to -The Trolsgros Brothers
come up with something good. But as you gain more experience, you can
take off the trainmg wheels. Then you look at recipe~ to get a sense of interesting combmations of ingredients, rather than a teaspoon of this or a cup of
that."
"Most of my
experimenta-

Deconstructionism/Reconstructionism

tion is rooted in the past," admits Charles Palmer. "It's involved taking what
I knew--dassic French cuisine-and applying it to great ideas in a modern
American approach. And a lot of the products you find here, from beef to
lamb, are even better than what you'll find m France, 0 it makes the experimentation that much more enjoyable."
Simtlarly, Rick Bayless describes the CUisine he serves at his Chicago
restaurants a~ "classic Mexican food with contemporary twists in a contemporary context." Bur, in hiS opmion, "the most Important thmg we do is
und~r rand the soul of what's being done m the CUisine and capture that in
our tOod. Flavor., -hould take you ro the heart of a cuisine." Bayle believes

.. Norman Van Aken on Inspiration

In fir tl n Cdn Ll me \\ hen you're ,tuck at a red light. The crea[[ve pwce:,s
I
l meth\l1!:' that I ' n~r). \'er) difficult to de5cnbe. In some way" it'; kind
t 'Ike 1 I \ er" quarrel that happen in your mind. I thmk some of the
mt1,t I..reatlye moment~ I've eyer experienced made me a little ick like a
k'ver' qu,lITel-and then suddenh, mcredibly happy, once there was a res"lutlo n

It.
It" the marnage between thought and the ingredients-and what a
child ot that marnage \\"Ould produce. I've trained myself to know my
ml!redlent' really well, so that I canhuftle them in my mind. Certain
m2reJlent' or combinatiom might trigger a memory, or trigger a hungerthe p::l't or the future. I gue s-that wl11 _et me into motion, and then Cfeatlve

to

thll1~

c::ln occur.
I thmk it wa" Pa_teur who aid that "Chance fan)f5 the prepared
mmd." There l~ a tremenJou . amount of preparatlon YOU have to ha\'e in
order for thl' creativity to ,pawn, I t'- not jut like wmning the lottery,
Jean-Franc;:oi Revel did. "To a gre,H.1 degree a~ ~exuahty. fnod i,
m'l'parahle fwm Imagination." Im.1!!lIution tor me I Ju~t ,mother \\'llrd for
...rean\ Ity. '\' hen \ ou take the freed m to u > )our mngll1atl n. then the
)rtal of cream'it h.we no lode.
It' one of the true t hm ,m term f che
. e ha e to h \ e .m
extraorJlI1ary e1f-e hung pn
e need t be IHe t( \\alk 111[0 till n tural ~arden th t CXI t ~ r It )ut ther 111 the \ rlJ- mJ. t e. JUr e, I htIcall) \\C ha\e to hdp prot t that n tuml arden. be au
,chef If \\e
Jdn't, then \\c won't ha\e It-md e( p t ur own pc 11 lhtlc It tlll""
and get \litO tht: <lr 111<1.' anJ the t tur . \X t: h \\ e to hut our mll1 I ott t )
all the Imll' [hm;! . hke the f t that the Hr" nJlti nm umt' hr ken or
whdte\ er, nd I r. moment. the J)
f per epn n c. n \\ moen nd
\\ e can mt: up \\ Ith orne \\ J\
pre ntlng
xi and maktO th It m m
Or) of food be omcthmg that p pi
n 1m \\ lth them rCHr-Of t
teel t ~ r \ eI) Ie ng time.

111llkcn 110 remember

\\hen her partner u to Fem er rerume I

fft m " I all n In India. ~ he w
ned and lid, "\c ' I t [ I m k
th
ffltter for ~ou-the) 're re Ilh unbeh \ bIe.... he m J th
"
t Ibl fritters \\ nh htckp
b I t[ 'r, en c J \\ It h mlllt- II ntr e.hu n
to 1
ue. md I er \\e pur th m n th m nu
m l"' .....u'
JI
n
[If
nl but th
\\ nt \Cr rc II bl' n
h
r
n

the mo
ence at Le Perroquet [t h e Chicago
. re~taurant where
.
h fi r t metl t ugh
vie
us was that \\,e cou Id t a ke any kmJ of food, mcludmg .t ese country_
'
.
from In d la, an d we could kind of elevate
,
. the dish by u tng orne of
fntters
.
the fmest
tec h ntques of handling food, which IS what the French. re bnlh
h
b
!iant at,"
,
"ongerichten
recalls
pagmg
t
roug
a
cook
ook from
Jean- G eorges y.
the 1800s by Urbain Dubois and running across a recipe call ing for the unuu. a f raisins and capers. , "1 knew the combinatlOn
would need a
'
a I com b matton
,
, F' I trl'ed clove ~,which
didn t work, but then I tned nutmeg, which
"
,"
,
Spice, Irst
is kind of 'pals' with ralsms, recalls Vongenchten. I m ade a puree of the
raisins and capers, which was delicious, even if the color was n o t very appealing. In trying to decide what to use the sauce with, I knew th at capers and
skate were 'pals,' so I tned it." The unusually delicious dish that re ' ulted was
added to hiS restaurant menu.
How do chef-couple' like Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton collaborate
on de\'elopmg di.he? "I did the original menu," says Peel. "And N ancy IS the
one who goes to the farmers' market and get a lot of ingredients, and those
end up 10 dLhe , Tina [\ViLon, Campantle" chdl also comes up with a lot of
di hes, wlthm parameter-,"
The Idea J
n't ah\ar~ tan \\ ith the main mgreJient. "N ancy found
some wonderful
romed legume t the farmer!>' market," recalls PeeL
"When the) pr ut, chcml.1 h n
ur m,klt: the bean, cau,mg them
Ilv rton de I led t u t: a heJ of the sprouted
legume to ho\\c e a perfectl~ c k d pIC e 01 almon.
to become \\e ter." Peel and

For JC r e Jermon clnd J hanne "Iii en, \\ hO'l: rramlng as a rt b ts predat~ their emf) IOta rofe I n I cookll1g, th tnrting lint is vi Ll,d. "I
think It' ~I tOur trainmg," ay
ermon. "We u e (Jur hr<lIn~ a .m empry
cam ." Th } fecclll h nn o the
creation I
th n ne lOch thick,

cnp Ion f

thin

10

agna,

fI

layered pa ta

la agna I filled \\ Ith

mu h
P,"} Killeen. "\X/e t Irted expert lllcnttn
wHh thm la dgna that wa till two or three I }cr high, but onl} three-quarter of dn lOch thick. From the mltlal VI uallde ,our mmd cre tcd the dl h
and br ught It to reaht) on the plate--one \\ Ith hechamel lice glazed \\ Ith
Parme an he e, which \\e n \\ cook to order."
The Jay' weather often di t te the klOd off,
pe pi \\ant to CJtCuu/l;mg and mus care alke n that a fmlshed or chef: want to cook. ObVlOU ex mpl
mclud
d a p rformance depend on an e ement
at on wh ch are never part of the
SCI'Jfe V.
nth 5 goes r.ght t re u ts
c th t mat
p

LfavlOg hot food m coIl we ther, md " 1l.C V r I 'I

thmk the weath r I ne f th m t d mm lun t
tor 10 term
thc m
I'm m nd wh u I
II
cookmg," V
rm n Y. n Ak n "8 t
here [10 MI mil n rI tw m 1\
(

, 1y
t trom the Chicill.!o area], our perception of what is 'cold' h as d ef'mite
ch.1 ng<,d. Ye~terJar \\'a~ 53 degrees and rainy, and we were thinking 'lamb
_re\\ '
\\'eather co~ditiO~S can also, directly affect the availability or quality
of certalO mgredlents. We certainly get rained out in terms of tuna or
shrimp bemg available," says Van A~en. "When the moon is full, the shrimp
go down, and the shnmpers Just don t go out." And across the country in Los
Angeles, Nancy Silverton pays attention to the weather in planning her
desserts. "After a recent rainy spell, I took strawberries off the menu because
I knew the strawberries weren't going to be good enough after having soaked
up all that water," she says.
lan
p
.
l' "

"
t

As Chris Schlesinger previously

pointed out, it's rare that chefs have
the luxury--or challenge!--of creating out of thin air. "Getting back to the
idea of a chef as a profes ional, my job as a chef-re taurateur is to run a profitable kitchen," says chlesinger. "One of the major realities facing cooks
throughout time is that it's a rare thing that a cook gee to create m a vacuum.
I go into the walk-in [refrigerator] In the mommg and I look at what I have
and what I need to u, e. Then I'll call up my pur\'eyor~, who'll tell me that
leeks are looktng great, for example, or thac striped b:h, ,e<lson jmt started.
o I'm ne\'er starting from a bbnk heet of paper-I'm ah\-ay:, tartlng from
omething. I have all the e thing to which I need to apply my experience
and knowledge tn order to [Ie them ogether."
Mary ue Milliken and ~U5 0 Fen! 'er once fouod them,elve with an
abundance of chicken in thelT walk-tn, and u d that Ituauon as an Impetus
to create a way to u e 1[, The re-lIl[ \\'a one of the m t pular di hes ever
on [heir menu: ~[Uffed Rigatoni with hi ken end Fennel. "We had rJered
_ me pasta, and the ri\!3toni had come In really lon o . And I thought, Well,
maybe I can do "omethmg with the p ta and th t chicken. I wa thinking
about Italian ,ausage and pa.-.ta, which we both l ve. But people don't like
pork, and they don't like all that
fat tn
U DC. Then we were
talkm o about it, and we deCided
to Qfmd the chicken up and
mea mou , like we u ed to
rna e t Le Perroquet. We deCided t ta e a P [I)' ba and tuff
the m
ltl.Slde the blanched
01.
hzed .... e h d to
It
methm , nd .... e

The M0th er 0f Inven Ion

A Chef's Palette

of Flavors

Jean-LouIs Palladin
'This list ret1ects exactly what I've got in the refrigerator, or exactly what I'm going to receive," says JeanLL1uI Palladin, of those ingredients indicated in boldface. * Palladin would go into his office at 1 P.M. every
afternoon w compose the restaurant's daily specials based on such a list.

INVENTORY-JANUARY 10, 1996

FISH
Af,al,mes
Anchones
Ba"s, Sea
Clams-Ra:c,r,
Countneck
Cod
G,d Chccb
Crab
SpIder Crah

Crawfish
Eel
Fk,under
Frogs' Legs
G>educk
Grouper
Hake
Hallhut
Herring

RllCkfbh
Rouget
Salmon
ardInes
Scallops
Sea Urchins
Seaweed
Shad R<1e
Shrimps

Lamprey
Lobster
Monk
~l,mk Llyer
Mussels
Onaga
Oysters
Pef\\nnkl6
PIt-alb

Skate
oft Shell
Spotted Ttle
Syu\l.l
Sturgel,n
SW<1rdf"h
Tuna
Turbot

MEATS
Caul Fat
Capon
ChIcken
Chicken WIn_'
Duck:
Mo,wvlte
M<lcrets

Legs C(m in
01::3rJ

Lamb

Heart

PI,F et
PI' Em
Rabbit

Kldn 'I-Black. Whit

Foie Gras
Guinea Hen
Ham

quab
Leg'

tarrow

Sweetbread~

Rabbit Saw,age
Bulfal"
BufLtlu Testicles

Veal
Veni on
F,II an
Con fit Gizzard

Le<;:
Loin

FRUITS
Strawberrie,
Rasphrnes

D.lte
Blueberrie
Banana
Hucklehern
GIX hem
Cranberrie

BlooJ OrIn

Prun

Per. Hnllum

ManJann
Melom

RilllJlS
Orange,

Grapes

n Fruit
Pc he>
Arne t

Pineapples
L.. mnn ..
Lime
Pome 'r. rule
Plum
Quinn"

KUmyUdt

FI
~tangoe

Papa,a,

Pear
Appl

limgennes
Ugly Fnnt (T1\Lerr,)

S"pore,
~rar Frutt

Rhurlfb

VEGGIES
Corn

Cucumber

P rln R

rsn.~

E~lanl

fennel

'n uP

G.rli,

Pepper

Ginger

Red

Hr
Lemon ra

Leek
Onn
Pearl OnIOn

Im

Yello"

P taloe
f nn
R
Id.tho

R d, hc

Rut r 'I
Sal Ih
qua h
Zu.:chini

Jcru I! m Art h h
Taro Root
Tomal

Red
'r I
TurnlJK
t

Yuc\. I R, .. 1

Rdm(
Bo\.: 111
hK.ld

Beet

nc tnut

Pu r

10

HERBS
p.,tI Le"f
Bad
Chernl
Chi,'e'
Cd"nrre

Dill
Epa:ote
Lavender
IdafJoram
Mint

Oregano
Parsley
Rosenlary

Sage
Savory

Sorrel
Tarragon
Thyme
Lemon Leaf
Shiso (Oba) Leaf

Ti Leaf
Juniper Berr,es

BUTTERS
:'-nchLw \,
Black C'he
C1per
Caviar

Enokis
Ginger
Lemongrass
Parmesan

Coral
Coriander
CUITY
Dill

Sea Urchin
Smelt Roe
Watercress
Basil

Tarragon
Chive
Chervil

Meat Juice
Rhubarb

Quince

SAUCES
Hucklebemes
lime

Garlic
Shallot

Lemon
Red Wine

SALADS
:\rugula
Coll0fL1S '
Green Oak
Red Oak

Green Romaine
Red Romaine
Mixed Lettuces
EndIves

BIbb
Chard
Dandelion

Frbee

Mache
Mesdun
Mlsuna
Trevlse

Mustard
Watercress
Heart of Palm

PREPARATIONS
Ban~ouce

Basqu

~i"oi,e

1'"

SMOKED FISH
[e'

Mussel,
RockfiSh

"turgeon
Hal but

:::..Ilm n
:-c"ilops

Trout
Tuna

Seaweed Salad
OctopUS Sabd

;:,bte
SOUPS

Corn

Eggplaf't

M'hrocm

Pem, P

Che,tnut
Loc.lflut

Fe\

Totr..lto
1>

Pepper

Am hoke
paragu-

Bean

CiUltfl"wer
Broccolt
Carrot
Cde ry R.x.t

TERRINES
Mushroom

,I-le

Cepe

Duck

Fre<;h '.lImon
, 11~

VeniSlln

FISH EGGS CAVIAR

Alll encan
O$etra

Be.J
'X'\tug,l

::melt Roe

H J _
Cepe

Fun

Foie Gras

CoJRoe

Quail Egg,

WO<.-xI Ear
Yellow Foot
Morel

lobster
Mal ut Ike
&ttmM hr

AV1l1,z Fl<h

MUSHROOMS
(

OnIOns
Shallot
Sahify
Crab

'-hiit"k
Trumpet

Truft1

1 flenne I, which is a trad\t1pnal season 109, for au age.

We
came up II.'It"l
assem bied t h e d I~'h and put it on the menu-and that dish w,,~ on the menu
for thirteen years!"
,
.
'
't's a lack that creates the need to ftnd a 'ultable ub tlI
Someumes
. opened e
Al Forno
' we started out without a wood-hurnino"
rute. "Wh en w
oven, " reca IIs George Germon. "It was a constant source of frustration that
we didn't have the space for one in the original Al Forno, But it was something that forced us to experiment with different cooking techniques that
would allow us to give a similar flavor to certatO foods, and that experimentation led us to develop grilled pizza. It's our own technique in that it
didn't exist in Italy when we experimented with it, but it was certainly
Italian in spirit." The technique, whereby pi::a dough is cooked on a grtll
to impart a unique flavor and crispy texture to the pizza, has ince been
widely copied.
How does the creative proces of developing a
new dish unfold?
In coming up with a dish, the ~ tarting point for Anne Ro 'en:weig is the
ingredient' essence. "Then I go into taste memory to see what the ingredient
evokes," he a) . "And I'll either hnng it back-..{)r bring it back in an even
better incaman n." :he cite: a n example the meatinaf offered on her
menu at her econd r t. urant, The Lob,ter luh. "We interviewed customer, and talked am ng our eh e , and found that the thmg e\'eryone
remember about tin meatlt 1f ro .... 109 up wa the tomato au e. ~ () we'll
u e different meats, and different c nin, but we alway incnrpl)rate a
tomato au e .... Im It. And mctllne .... e get vel) pldyful!" "Playful" certainly de cribe "Jult I Ie 13' Mother' Me tI at," a fl tional creation incorporating ro ted pepper and ancho chtle !
Ja per White never h Itat m aym , "The tartmg point i the !Ogredient . What I the focu of the dl h. ] gue I'm tr<1dltional to the extent that
it' u uall) the protem-what I the fl h or meat or caViar? Whotever It i ,
there'
memmg that' the re n why I'm c kmg the dl h. And I tT) not
to let the dl h go too far away from that re n.
" 0 the fIT t thmg I do I Identify the product, and that' the theme l,f
the dl h. And I Identi~ the characten ttcs of that particular produ t-\\
the fl h fre hly caught and bled, for example? Then It Will have Itghth dtf
ferenr properti than a fl h that' not.
then I go IOto the memory b nk
I already know what thi fl h taste ltlee. And I already lenow whl h t n
ingredIent go best WIth It. And then I would
what th
t
ent are, and what the se n f, r them. nd th n t rt d
d
out of them.

Composing Dishes

'I'm tnto k\l1d l t the TV dinner arrroach-the three comrartments:

rrot 10. \ egetable, ,tarch. A lot of tlInes they can all be mixed together or
rht'~ oulj be handled In different ways. But I still kind of stay with that
bec.lll,e, (or me, a r late needs to have those three elements," says White.
"So It st,l[ts with the season. And you also have to take into account
rhe occaSion. !-; It for a restaurant menu, or is it for a special dinner) Is it for
fnend~ at h'1me? Is It caual, or am I trying to be fancy? Or it might have to
d() with the ret of the menu, too," he says.
Jimmy Schmtdt is one of a number of chefs who point out the importance of deslgnmg food to complement the wine with which it is to be served.
"But in the case when you're not accounting for any kind of beverage mar-

Contrasts Between Ingredients

providing contrasts withm a dish offer rowerful opportunities for heIghtening interest as well as expressmg one's point of \'Iew. Most importantly, it is a
way to achieve an all-important sen.e of balance in a dish:
Characrerutlc

Spectrum

Example

Aromas

Famt/ [Tong

Vanilla CU,[, rtl with Ctnn<lmlln

VarieJ

TroPILdl trun .ll.d

Fany/A,mngent

~alm n wnh hOf'cr.IJI,h

Coml renC):
Cookt:J

~tare"

Cooked/Rim

[nexren IVC/E. pen tile

POtatoc, \\Ith caviar

Del15t{~ :

He,IVy/Llght

Lemon meringue

Famtltant'(

Common/Exotic

Flavors:

Sweet/Sour/~.

FlavOf "trength:
MOl tne

hy/Bltter

harr/Blancl

rtC

1a,heJ pOra[l)e
\1 Ith hwdacoche

p,td That
Lemon ,ole

Wet/D~'

Big/Little

, teak with hngerltng pOtdtoe,

SPILl -Hot/Bl.md-Cool

Wd'<lht on lUnd

Temper,l ure ~

Hot/Col.l

Hot dPple pie \\ Ith

\ .mtlla IU~ Lream

't xtur

Cnspyl

f1cme /horne

It

u,hl

GfilleJ chee e .md\\ Ich

. h h ingredients them elve~ . The direction f th

.
,e you start \\ It t e .
I
nage per. ,
ds to 'Ho\\ do you tdke these natur In 'fedl nt
,'"
thought process then procee
nd enhance their natural beauty.
.'
I
a
II end up \\Ith
"It you ta ke 'a fIS h , for instance, and apply. heat to It,_ you
.
.
f f'IS h . 1'ing to taste like fish, and It may. be tre~h,
hut n )t much
a piece
0
t s go
.
'. a
, dded to,
it from a gustatory po lOt ot Vlew. There'
not
.
other excitement
IS
.
much.
from a textural, contrast 109 pOint of \'Iew.
. I. Th ere 'not
much \'lsua
s
And the flavor is kind of one-dimensIOnal.
,
"If you were to add a sauce to the dish, and either vegerahle or ,tarch.
es t h at wou Id 0 (fer color" flavor contrasting, texrure-all of rho<.e dement
would preferably nor cover up the flavor of rhe fish, but would enhance it. For
ex amp Ie, comb inmg. the crunchines' of snow peas with salmon woulJ make
the flesh of the fish eern ilkier 10 contrast. LtkewI:>e, a more aciJlc;]uce
with the salmon would balance out ,ome of the natural sweetne,~ and f;]tty
characteritic~ of the -almon.
"Then, you might grill the ,almon, or pan-roa r it, \)r dust it With ~rlce)
and sear It. With each one of th()e different techniques, you're qUite able to
bnng out more fla\'of., or potentlall) even c,lr,nneli:e some of the natural
sugar 10 the pre cnce of acid and oudd cll1 ,1d,jltl<lOai flavor profile,"
Lind ey -here belie\ e the me klO
f Cl ntrats m,lke fnr ,1 glX>J
de ert. "Our focu I- a\\\, on th f1, \or , teo run.' , and temperatures In ,
de~ ert," he } ...~. e want t let pc pie know \\ hat really good stuft t,l te
lIke, IOLe ~ e\\Cl) [th r ef) t f ch In! eem ro he the tlavor tanJarJ
Ir [ I n re In.! < de err, a or :lin~ to :here, I tLl [Ill!.! the
(rUiL ")' u hl\e to knO\\ ho\\ It b~h \c ," he y. "What hdrpen when It'
cooked or pureed? Does It tum bro\\n? The fruit ta te different (film year to
\earandfr mfanner to (armer. E\ef) }e r\\henapple c on t rt ,wclmn
hack one of ev f) tvpc ot apple. nd then cO{ k and t;I [ th 'm. (lOod c.ltmO
apple. are not ah, a\ eood cookmg applc . Rcd Ddici u < pple , for eXclmple,
don't ha\e a lot oftlavor "hen cooked. We ee whi h on \\e like the texture of, and which combme well \\ Ith other ,"
'ext come "thmkmg about all the po Ihtlltle for wh It that fruit
could be "
h
,,~
.
d
'
'7
ere, omen me omethmg will come out ( f thc hlu, n
other time H 'II
k . Do
.)U
\\or at It.
vou \\ant to make a tart? What bout ere m
puff~' W . ' f . h
l
C
. e can t f) ere at hez PanI e) becau e we don't ha\ c .t hood 0\ cr
the pastf), ection, and we don't have a brOiler
\\c c n't do thtn' !Ike
gratin. It IImlttng not having thu e p< Inlhue."
b'en though Chez Pani se Joe n't ha\ e a hqu( r h en
IS a 110\\ cd to use hard liquor 10 the kitchen, and here wIll t
that freed m b, sen 109 pear herbet with grappa, r rr

[lnn her1- t \ 'Ith fr IInbol'C. "AnJ I ilkI.' Kir'>ch un pelch

,. ,trawl'erry
I.
, ,pe,u,
( r rl pl>ern ,herhet," ~ ht're ,IY'.
'
\\ hlt about Lhoull.lte 1 "Chocolate i, a real standhy 111 the Winter here
\\hen the IIPllle' ot tnllt ,ue 1(1\\'," ':ly,> here. "In coming up with ne\~
d~, crt', we run experiment . . In the kitchen a lot, te~ting recipe . T here's a lot
of prc"ure to COI11t' up with ne\\' Jessens, both pressure from our cllstomer~
and ,df-Ilnpo t.'d."
Wht'n compO'In!; a Jbh, Gary Danko starts hy a,king himse lf, "What
I' the mam tn(!redit'nt here? What b the center of the plate? b it a roast eggplant \\,Ith lamh Ie tn, or I~ it mast lamb loin With eggp lant? Ideally, I wi ll
Lhoo e h the ,ea on.
"When I cook with lamh, because I take all the fat and connective tis,ue ott the meat, I have to omehow in,ulate that meat. In the 'prang, I'll take
dried morel mu,hnxlms and powder them, and use that with bread crumbs
and aromatic" omon s , ~arlic, parle), thyme, and make a very delicate crust.
I'll 'ear the lamh in a lIttle bit of hot oil. cool It dO\m quickly, hrush It With
e!!!! white, and then roll it in this cru t. From that, I'll decide. 'What am I
!!OLn!,! to put thi on?' I'll thtnk, 'Well. lamb like to !!ra:e on fennel. and fennel\ jut coming tnto ea on, <;0 I'll make a really Imple ft.'nne! compute ...
Danko -ay . "Then I'll thll1k, 'Do I want till to ~o more ;"1ellitcrranean, ur
what ,t ,Ie do I want to take thl m?' In 10) mmd. I'll thmk Ea ter, Ea ter bunnie , ham, a para!!u , eggs-the e are cert. In thmg from m) chlllh d th,lt
I remember. Thl I the indl\'ldu I t} Ie 0 the chef omm out here-ba 1cally, where you were born, what }our Ii e penen e .He, et ceter If I tr;weI nd I ee. dl h that' 4ulte 1I1tere tin , .1I1d I lake the phd ph} an I It
blend with mane, then I ml ht In l r rate tho e flavor
r I'll take a pe(lflC CUI me-I love;"1 rocc.an and Indl n f
and I \\111 u e the I ve of
tho e pICe In a much m re deb ate manner In the food th, I prep.!re at The
RIt:-Cariton I mm) Room."
What' [h~ eoal \\ hen bUll Ian!:! a n \\ dl h~ Some of the best dIshes m the world have no
":lmpliclt'y," a~ RICk B,,} Ie ," nd \\ holene of tla- more than three major components
\or and textur~. Recent! , I kept en l)Ura 109 a u -Lyd S re
chef [) pull r. ck n n appcmer of !:!nlled all p , and t t.!ke e\ I) thm!:!
aw I} e cept \\ hat \\oull naturan~ meld re ll} \\ell \\ Ith the I a It \\
W1m Thl \ a}, \\ hen the daner tarted at It, there \\ould reall be
( mpleten
bout l.allop, nd a counterpoint 0 thl Ib lutel} delaClou
I , nd then me ther element th It \\ ul ta) In the bac !!TOund
the
el m m
u need d to lie It all to eth r.
h t \ e end d up \\ Ith \\, t Iktng m napa c.lbb ~e and l:Uttlll It
r II
thm, h ling a Illet unlliit \\ qUite h )t, putun JU t a tin lit
m ' In that h t klllet, nd then putting th nap (. "b I" m .10.1 JU t
0

~t- I

h ed t ... t1 it j'u,t
barely wIlted the l1ap.l It went,.,on th pi It
'"t t the cllnlponent, were bUilt on tl 'P 01 that, .1'1' R wlc
1nd t h en t h ere" II

tO~'ln,C It (lI: t 1t'"

" uO
J ne )'llU could eat It and it telt ,l~ It every thll1g \,<1 111 perf
,
L I
L t ' U dl :In't reall v even know what thdt W,1,,; It Wd" the kmd f
l,a ance, l'U
~ll
L
,
'n't which all these other t1a\'ors and texture, worked th mbae kgroun d at.: aI
of how we are able tu build dl'. he" here, and
se Ives" ou t ' That's. ,'1 .good example
'
, \Ylhen it
'

,'\-

\\'a~

\\'hat our goal is, basically,"

Undersrandmg and always respecting the e,senee of the in[!rediem I
key, Mark Peel says, "Let's say you start with a quaiL A quail is a little thing.
So I would always put something substantial with quail, to kll1d of buiklit up,
It needs more support than, say, a pnme rib. I might put some parsnIp P ltatoes or mashed potatoes With it, as kind of a ba~e,
"A lot of di,he~ have a ba,e-lIterally, a phy,ieal b,be, "omethinl:! th,lt'
oomo to kind of holJ the di.h up. It'" ~omething that' going to accept the t1a\'or and pull everything together. For example, we ser\'t~ sweet Pllt,HI'e, With
babr chIcken, whIch come. with a garlIc cllnnt ,md (",cawle, The sweet potato puree accept the ,harp, hitter t1avOf Ilf the t.: c,lrole and the !;drilC (onflt
and the JUice that. re c mll1g out 1)1 rhe chicken, And the ~weetncss conrra~t' WIth the bltteme ~, and the ~. rll rl.'.dh fl)llnJ~ out the tld\,llr of the
,weer
t.lto." "And .111 th e
ft te tur .1re tCXIlife thelt peopltc re.dly
lo\'e," dd
n
Ih crt n
f the !:!drIlC ,In"l the (lltne
of the tx ItO 11 Iml melt t eth r,"
<0-

'"

Juggling Flavors

Th _rt: t r the
mple.'lt) t lil he ,th m rc
fIa\ or c
mh 'r propertle that IOU t he Jll ' ,led

no

ther, J rm Idm II nt)

ch tllen 'e tor a eh t.
10 (ur h' u," y Jllnm\ c.hmlJt. c. nd \\!th
I Ie thtn .' 1 II, I n ' .ood, mo' hetter. threc' gre It,
In

m..:r dlent ,

~ ur' tern I , nd I I nt tt"

the fILl\
hem n th 10 reJlcnt
palate t te them II mdt\ Idu II
mg all th \\ me. Y u'n:
m

n I d m't nc e HlI).I 'rec. I thlllk th It

h< \e to tl t ether. I don't thtnk ,< UT
\X h n ou Jrtn . gb of \\ me, )< u'rc
on n \ r, e\ 'n though It' m de ur
n n LI \\1: , Ith I lil h, the fld\' r hI uld c me t cthT to ere t
e 1m I e, th It h\ !:ond 1m g .
u need to u e upp Irttn t1t rna e that \\ rk.

H \\ to mIke ure u are ahl to I {, lrnplt h thdt! "I remember h tr

mg a lilt ktnd man Ie theoT), \\ hercb I }OU \\ 'r c m!:omm \\010 rt:
olen th t Jldn't re II) , t I ether, u hid t h<l\ e I thlrJ m r d. nt th t
related t , th 111 rJ r t tie the dl h tether,
\ lu
hI 111 r
Put n th r \\ ,If u I k t 10 r d. or ttk h
mer

re tim

that m re

re tw or

_ <'e
an experience that he says he'll never forget,
lJt'llr
_ (ierm,)n recounts
"
h haj
d powerful mt1uence on him as a cook. "I was vi 't'
II Ie
'
.
Sl 109 some peoh
had a four- or flve-year-old
daughter ' They weren' t
r I(' I n EnglanJ who
"
,
' over to
arL'U nl1, but I was 111 the kttchen and the little girl pulled a chair
the ,W\'e and started heating up a pan, say 109 she was going to make toma'ALlr '" he remembers. After getting" the girl's assurance that her parents
to 'v
allo,\'ed her to do so, German says he watched her heat some butter in the
ran, then take out a knife and cutting board and chop some tomatoes. She
cooked the wmatoes m the butter about three minutes, and then added a
httle salt and a little cream. "Would you like some?" she asked German,
\\'ho roltte!y rephed, "Sure!" Once he tasted it, German says he was
abolutely Hoored. "It was unbelievable," he says. "I couldn't believe that
something tasted as good as it did with so few mgredients."
AI Forno's menu features a potato ,oup that's equally simple. "It has
just four ingredients: potatue~, oniom, butter, and water, That's it," says
Germon. "And when our cook ' fir~t made it, they kert asking, 'What's the
next ~ter?'" Johanne Killeen rememher~, "They found it lmrnssible to
beIteve that anythinu wonJerful CQulJ re ult (wm four mgreJient!"
there are ju,t two. ~o what \ au pair an mgrl.'dlem- .ay, ~inger-\\'ith
derend~ on how many ch raeter are on the t l!!e," t.'xpillm I 'orm.1n Van
Aken. "In the latter ca,e, )oU 101 ht adJ m T to a 'Imple vmm;rette of (lil
and an aCldie component. An Ithe three are quite dlf~ rent from one another. If there were many ch.uacter on the L1-e, It m12ht be iI mger-,oy vmaigTen~ With ~nlle I chicken an i m drame!t: d pbntam , The n!,unance
betw~en th~ carameh:ed, _rn ky planwm nd the 0 ' dnd [he pungenq' ( f
(he gln~er workmo ,2am ( the meat) Implen
of tht: chIcken-I'm thtnkIn':! of them all ( I '10 _ t _ ther, and \\ hat the} 're , bit: to ay to e ch other.
"I fmd the number 01 10 red lent n pbte to 1e a common II Cll Ion In tht da} ilnd ge, The Cah~ mla cod movement really ,celll' to .ay
to It elf, 'Well, Impitclty I reall where (h punt) lte-.' The nu!!ht 10 k
at me 0 m~ re Ipe and ,a), 'Oh, (hi' I' toO omph ated.' But then I'll
100 at a CUI me that I much older than m t of the cui,me, of the world,
It 'C China' or orne Thai Ubme, nd a), Look who t (he) '\'e done after
m n mOTl: Ccntune 0
1\ liI:dtlOn, m tcrlll' of h.win~ the e JI parate
In edlco
You'll I k at melr recipe nJ ou'l! ee twelve mgredlent m
And er a pen (tim, )U might thm - that) uu'J get It do\\ n
r three mgrcdlcm no i-c(. me qUite m\l1lm lit tiC, But the

rt:\er e I' truc III the e 111"re ,U1Llcnt lUI me . And It' n t b ~ 1I It
hodgep()JL!e ...
Br,ILlle) Lll;Jen agrees. "S(lIllCwne )'<1u'l1 h<1\ e ,1 dl h th,1' too he V}
a nS(ltto th,lt'.; tno nch, or a ~auce that's <1vCrrcduLeJ-and you feel re, 11\ tcrnble ,Ifter \'llu\'e eaten Lt. It'.; U'.uaJly l'>ec,lu e It\ one-dllnen Lon, I," he LY.
"If there II'ere two or three dimensions, It would be ~parkll1g up jour t te
buds imtedd. That', why you need the blendmg of flavors that wtll t'lke ,\\1.1)
some of that richness and stir up the taste buds and cleanse the ralate .J latle
bit. That's where a cook can put hLs or her creativity mto rlay. You know
when you ha\'e a had l'>ottle of wine, where the fir~t sir might make you. ,I),
'Wow!' but then it's son of flat after that? It\ llne-dlmensional. And It\ nl)
difference from a meal that'~ one-dimensional. I like to go tor two llr three
dimemiol1S, but yet without getting ton cnmrlex.
"For examrle. I did a fOlt' gYm dl . . h the other night With FUJi apple"
which I'J [(la'ted and marinated \\ Ith a little l'>,llsdmlc vinegar. They Were
,till cn,p, With a bite to them. ,md 1H.!hth c,u.1meit:ed," says OgJen. "The
richness at the [Ole gra~ \ .1' h,II.II1LeLl by the ,Irtncss of the ,Iprle, '0 you
walked ,m'd) fr III the dl,h thmkmg, 'Th,ll \\'.1 re,llly gre,It' instl:.ld l)( 'Th~lt
really hea\}.' Bctlancm!! t
Icavln!! It coated nd Hah."
W<1

te ,Illd tl.' (UrI:' purb your palate mstcacllJt

Achle\ 11\ 1 hal n e, \\hatc\cr th p lrtl IIlar Lh,HdCtl'fl tiL ui ,I dl,h,

I the val for RI
B. Ie "If I el'\
fn i Ii h, I ill", Y !Ike tl) p,ur It w1th
an aCldK c m nent," he
pI lin . "An \\ h n I crvc olllethll1!! CXlltlC, I
ltke t pur It \\lth m thm' \ ell kn wn,"

"I'm lbl t

thr \\

III

an

,I

nt,"

J}

,tnq

Ih I:rtOl1, "hut I c,m'l

al\\d} (m up \\!th the \\h I

I h
L rk /Peell ,mel Tm,1 /Wtl'on,
Campmd' heO \\111 take It t I <.:ert lin 1'0111, IIld OlTlCtlllle I'll .ty, 'Wh~
d n't }OU al
d thl ' lOd that' m\, l( ntnbutl 11," Pe I char, tt:tlZt:' hi
WIfe' c ntnhutl n
"t pacall} tf)'1n to add IIUI crunch (( thmg ." lIo .... !
"Fa\ bean," a\ Pe I' r bre d rumb ," the) }, 11m t Imult, neOl! h,
.. om tim for me, cre lin
dl hIS WIt) W
m thlll that I rc II, low," 1
Ihenon "Wh n I cillO Ime \\lth the c mblOHlon 0(\\ rm
apple au e and old re m. I Id I \\1 hed that I could el'\c that It the
re taur, nt, but n bod} \\ould bu} It If th } a\\ It next t a pi cc 01 t\\ nn(1\ e-la er ch IC late cake. But it' proh hI} one of the most xqui ttl'
mhtnatl In 10 the \\orld. a I came up With a de crt that \\ent \\ Ith It, t mbell
I h thl perfect c mbmatt n, nd th t \\a
vinegar pie.
m bod had m
me \\h t th c II a che pie, \\hl h h \m' r In It, and I hked I[ bit
\\ n't \ In
I) en ugh (( r me-but that \\
rtIn ' POInt
I nl' l'r lake J
n , c rtalnl n t frUit de rt r
n tI
I
d I 1\\
hk th m t be m \\ h r hetw n sav'Orv

IO\'e acidIc thing with apples. Cold cream provides a contrast in tempera[Ure _)ou don't want ice cream with everything-and is also neutral, in a
sense.
it . rt of gives your palate a place to rest."
"The first way you encounter a dish is
through seeing it with your eyes," points
l)ut Dieter Schomer. "And over the last thirty years, we've seen chefs making
mountain and monuments on a plate-and they're so impractical. I always
hate it when people cover the whole plate with cocoa. Even a little bit of a
I>ree=e when you have a white shirt on, and .. .forget it!
"With nout'elle cuisine, it would take half an hour to decorate the plate,
and by the time you got the food, it was cold," says Schomer. "A lot of presentation was done just to show off, and I have always been against just show-

Visual Presentation

ing off."
Nancy Silverton believes that most diners are very heavily influenced
by the elaborate presentation of a dish. "Ninety-eight percent of the population probably sits down and ays, 'Whoa! That's incredible! That chef is
o talented!' Tho e are a lot of the chef who get the attention from the
pre and are making the wave the e day aero the country. But because
of that, we're getting a lot of muddled food. People who don't know how to
do a lot of tho e very technical thing correctly are trying, and they're just
falling on their face . It make it difficult for me to find place to eat the e
day.
"The more whim ical or the more complicated you get with your food,
the more you have to do ahead of time, and the more you sacrifice the flavor.
No matter what anybody ay, you can't do it all. All you can do Ii la
minute ... " (" ... you have to be able to do in a minute," quip Mark Peel.)
Silverton continue, "The more complicated a di h, the more spectacular a
dish, the more tale it' going to taste. There' no way anyone can prepare all
the element the arne day."
"I think we've really achieved a great presentation when a dish looks as
though that' they way it ought to be-and hould alway be," says Mark Peel.
ilvenon agrees. "When we do it right, and we've done what we set out to
do, you see the dish and you think, 'Yes, that' how that dish hould always
be and why would anyone ever do it any different?' That's when we've hit the

mark."
George Germon agrees. "I think that food should look as natural as ~
ble. And 1 hke food to look fresh, like it was born on the plate," he says. "I
don't hke tall food, squeeze bottles, drizzles, or sprinkles." In terms cJ the pre.
IentatlOll of food, he says, "Our an backgrounds are the best thinp that ever
hawened to us. Presental:aon coma naturally to us. It' part cJ our vocahuLary.

Compo.

nfl

E\'en If you know what look you'regomg after, It's ~ot alway ea y to
communlL'ate It to those who will have to execute .it. "I tind that the mo t
difficult dung to do IS to impart the concept of 'tree form .'" s a y~ Patuck
O'Connell. "If you draw something on graph paper, cooks are very comfort_
able and say, 'I can follow this-this goes here and this goes there .' But to
me, that's what we call 'tense' food. So I ,aid to this young man the other
day, 'What we're trying to do here with this plate is to make it look like you
picked the asparagus and you waltzed through the garden, and a little breeze
blew the stuff across the plate.'
"We have dishes where sauces are thrown, and some cooks think that
means splat! No, no, no, no, no. It's a very delicate balance. If you're gOing
to make It look wild and cra:y, you're going to have to have the element of
total and complete control and precision there with it to balance it out. Some
cooks don't understand It yet, what a dish is saying-[that it's] saying a whole
bunch of things," O'Connell says.
"l\.fichel Guerard has a very ltght touch, and since working with him in
France, I've always carried that with me," says Michael Romano. "He taught
me that If, plate loob ruo full, it's unappealing. The presentation of his food
has a ccrtdin airine', and lightness to it, and I try to remain inspired by the
same deltcarene ."
[\'en , mon!.! leaJtn!.! eh f" there IS ,1 Wide array of optnion as to what
con mure gre t pn: em tl n. "There ,1\\\ ay~ has ro be height in a dish,"
argue J lLhlm. pll h, l. "There h 1 to be a fllCLl~ In the way It\ placed on the
plate. A dl h hould be a VI ual eXI eflence for the customer. It was with
{Frenh chef Jdcyue J laxlmlO that I Ie rned pre,entation, how to get something t I - perfect."
n the [her h nd, JO}CC G Id rem ,y, "I don't helieve in tall fooJ.
There arc me cil he th t \OU have to cr.l h In order to eat. I don't helleve
In quce:c hi: nle , an 1 I d n't belteve 111 Imlc lOb of alice dfOunJ the run of
a plate. And I J n't \loam m} cu turner to Ic.lvC With par ley or cocoa on
their leeve be a e omeone In the kitchen' g ne cr<l:Y .rnnklml1 It all
O\er the rIm of a plate.
"I d n't thmk ou houlJ put an) thin~ un a plate that doe,n't rel,ne to
the dl h," he a} . "Wh, would an)one want a r emary branch tantilOg ur
in the middle of their plate? Are you uppo ed to edt It? Pick yuur teeth With
it! If not, then \\, hat on earth I I t dOing there?"
- orne chef feel that the n tural heauty of their ingredient pro\,ld
them \\ ith a leg ur, In tenn of attract!, e pre cnt,ltlon. "I J n't bUild r hitecrural C but I do look veT} much at dram tl pre enwttun " I)
onnan \an Aken. "It' kmd of ea h m certam re peet , bell . Wt: W rk
\\ nh uch be utlful olm with the tr >plcaht} ot where I'm It [MI md [

"t Ifl' r btc - \\ Ith technicnlnr-ltke opportunltie,. II

dbl
ave e I e garnIshes. I want every little p,ece of
(It autumn,lI-lt, rlotnu', In many respect', and it greenery on a pi t t b
Ir' 11
a e 0 e there for a purpose
L, nl1dc tIl re more S{l . Anu I can work With three
Alice
Wat
CIn ['\: { ,
Hrs
s
llr fllur c,1I{1r , rut they re .,uc~ strong pnmary c.olors that the plates Will seem
near I, ' electriC In tcrms ot their presentation.
"One {,f my key dishes IS my rum and pepper painted fish, with a mango
m(1h(l, \\hlch b nearly rlack from thiS rum paint that I make, on the fish, in
"rark reltef to the brilliant mango puree-pure, simple color. Then I have this
bright green rorlano that's stuffed, with the stem still coming off of it. So
the~re are reall\' only three colors with a little bit of hme and a little bit of
riPped t1owers, but they're all so different that it allows for an extraordinariII dramatic rresentation.
"I can do that becau,e of my raw materials here, which are not affected by me as the chef. but are affected by Mother Nature and her extraordinary ralette of color,. I can select these thmgs and put them together In very
natural ways that will look very bright to people who are coming from areas
thilt rerhar don't have these thmgs so much Within their larder.
"One of the mo t important thmg s m food is texture," ,ays Van Aken.
"I think that one of the rea~om we regan tacking thmg, m a naroleon-Iike
way wasn't really ro pre the phalltc o pp rtUl11ty but to offer a chance for the
fork, as It deltvers an mtru,ion to .1 pre entan n, to get it 'tratum of textures
that )\1U'1l rush through, a that when }OU get your fmc, you'll have your little btt of mashed rota toe and yo ur little bit f crunchy I' taW or plantain
chip and your den e meat)' pr tem (r III \ our (I h o r pork or whatever in one
nice bite, so that when It\ m your m uth, It' like, '\'l/o\\'!' It\ all kind of
bouncll1g around in there and offering thl ch fdal o pportunity, as opposed to
)U5t a note."
"Pre entation h a on Ileran n," admit Altce \X' ter , "I d n't like for
everything to be tlat on a plate-and 1d n't like, oviou ly, for everyth1l1g to
be tall. But, aga1l1, I ltke to rely o n the cl Ie. I hke the look of lime-green
fa\'a beans with a little pl11k pr luna or alami, 1 love those color" And 1
love all the maroon color of (ood, like the radicchIO that look like pnrrot
tuhp ,all tuped, It' iu t fanta t1 . I love all the color' of tllmatoe, together,
mcludmg the unlikely one -the art of brown one and yellow one. There',
a \\ hole palette to be can Idered, and I'm very 1I1fluenced by that, by color.
But, 0 VIOU ly, ta te I number one; I would never use the color if It didn't
tel te ood,"
Mary ue Mllhken agree that her iir,r priomy 111 a di h i ttl teo
thmg I more 1m ftant to me than h w that (ood' g01l1g to ta te," he
"For me, 1 hke my alad to have every ingle leaf covered with exactly
h n 'ht m unt f dre mg. Th
leave ren't g01l1g to tand up,"
10' < ]

n g

"We do lots of great sauces that are very thin," adds Susan Fent~er.
"And they don't look that great on a plate; they don't look nearly a, good a
something that's reduced and sort of demi-glace-like, because they don't coat
the plate as well."
The problem, it seems, comes when taste is sacrificed to appearance.
"Now there are some people, like [Charles] Palmer, who do vertical food
beautifully. But people will always go to see the latest madness," says Jeremiah
Tower. "When 1see an army of peas around a plate, 1 know that they've been
handled and are probably cold. In terms of the appearance of a dish, I find few
things more beautiful than a bowl of sliced white peaches, maybe with some
raspberry cream on top."
Lindsey Shere admits that when it comes to desserts, "I'm a minimalist
at heart. I'd rather see a really beautiful combination of colors, flowers, and
leaves on a plate, rather than fireworks. I find it often detracts from the taste
of desserts. When you put too many things together, not everything can be
perfect. The caramel can get tacky sitting on the plate while the dessert is
constructed, or the cookies can get soft. Another thing I don't like is seeing
an even number of things on the plate; I prefer seeing, for example, three sorbets, which 1 think appear, more halanced."
"One of the mo't important things in any dessert is texture," add~
Franr;oi Payard. "There i nothing more bonng than a dish with no texture.
Even in ,\ JI,h like oeufs a III nCI!!C [floating Islands], which emphaSIZes the
softne" of the fluffy egg white, there i" carame!t:ed sugar to add CrISpiness."
Pa\'arJ rec.lll proudly that j leu York Times food writer Florence
Fabncant had p,ud him cl compliment at a recent food event. "She pomted
out that 111 my de erts I wllrk more on tla\,()[ than on structure," says Payard.
"\Xlhen )"llU think aOOm It, you rc,JIi:e that when your grandmother made a
good dl,h, what made it ~OOJ \\,a,n't how It looked but what It tasted ltke. Fllr
example, a floating Island de,~ert ha, no structure. But when your grandmother made it, ho\\ wa, it? Perfect!"

A Final Word

No matter how many gUldel1l1e, are offered on h"w to

compo. e a Ji,h, In the end m heauty he' ( nil' in the
eye of It beholder--or taster! Knowing this, Rick Bayle, say", "I get re,lll~
fru,trclted with a numher of my cnob rhe,e lay., who want me tlo explain to
them, why? 'Why?' 'Why Jo YOli J( l rhl~?' 'Why Jo you do that?' Wh<1[ I uStlPersonally, I have ceased countmg the nights ally amwer b, 'Well, just taste it.' And I let them ee If
spent m the attempt to dIscover new combma- they can internalize H. Sometllne chef.., need tort (If
l s when completely broken WIth the fatIgue of commune with the lI1gredlent HnJ then t~ te th tll1 al
vy day my body ought to have been at rest
di h to kno\\ whether they've gotten It n 'ht or n t I
-Augu e Escoffer teel very trongly th, t }Oll Jll t ha\e to til t It mJ

n"Cdll'~ he lo\"e,. the. \'ery, \'ery deltcate taste of turbot ,eremla

]
' h T,ower can't
lin l"lI1e ramn!! It with anything more complicated th
,,
" '
an a h 0 II an d'
alse sauce
, h ment
an \.I ,,)me httle hoIled potatoes. With the hollandaise , t h
ere's an ennc
Ad
at' the thH)r wIthout adding lots of distracting flavors"
, h
e says,
n T,ower
thmb that pl)rk doesn't need more than a sprinkling of black pepper: HI
re!te\'~ strllngly in the marriages of flavors!"
l!"

When we asked leading chefs how they knew that certain flavors or
foods would complement each other, the usual response was something along
the 11l1es of, "You just know, After tasting so many different foods and food
combinations, you store the ones that work in your head. When you've accumulated enough, you can even get pretty good at predicting which combinations you haven't yet tasted will work, based on the ones you know that
work'. "
Wondering how we mIght shortcut the process of gaining decades of
fir~thand experience led to our research and development of the following
charts. Based on our conversatIons with chefs as well as our researching some
of the best respected culinary books (including those written by leading
American chef, and recommended by them as critical to an aspiring chef's
education), we compiled a treasure of food combinations that are known to
work.
How to use them? 'X'hen your wrong pOint for composing a dish is a
particular ingredIent, you may wl,h to can the It [ for inspiration for a posSible mmrlement or complement', \\'hlle man\' In!:redICnt, are available
vear-round, ~ea onal peab dre noted for cert,lIn Item~. In aJJition, in some
instance~, rreferreLI cookmg technique ,m: mdlcated. You might also he
inspired hy the example , ofhow our chef, ha\ e combined the ingreuients anu
complements on their own menus.
How not to u,e them? Y()U haukl remember that your own palate is
paramount. There may be orne combmati n ll,ted that are not to your peronal likmg, anu there are certamly combm:1nom not ll~ted that work as
welJ-or even bener-than tho,e mc1udeu. Your goal should be to cook to
ple<ue your elf and th e for \\ hom \OU co k-and not in conformance with
an) chart m any book!
Jean-L UI Pallaum claim thar fnou ratring j,n't difficult, given the
vellr he\ penr cookmg. "Many combmartom eventually hecome scconu
nature," he clllm~. ~o how Joe ,I le~yexrerienced chef uevelop the same
n e of wh t wor - ! B~ refernn!.! [() the exten~i\'e flavor combintng charb on
the foll \\ mg pa re , whICh brin!.! Into one C(Jnvenient place, for the fir,t time,
he mtulUH' knmdedge \!ained over centune h ~ome of the worlu', greate,t
1m r mm , J culleu from tntcrVIC\\ ,mu menu,> of contemporan chef,
nJ r hi t neal rc e rch.

en
CI)
.c
uI ,

ca

:E

FOOD MATCHES MADE IN HEAVEN *

ALMONDS
apples
apncot,
caramel
chocolate

raISin ...
nce
... trdwbernes

coconut
cream
plums
prunes

ANCHOVIES
()nlon ...
par ... ley

eggs, hard-h(,iled
odriic

(Fall)

APPLES
ll.ltmcal

CIder

almmd
IpplCjol k
bacon

cinnamon
cl \"t"

pCdr,

pepper, black

pl!:!noit

r mhern
rcam
unmt , hi
u tard

JI

t::

bld\..khcrn
l-lue che
l-rand\
bro"n ugar
l-utter
l-utter utch
Calvado
caramel
ca la

eelcn
chee e
hc lOut

r.ll1!.:i."

nll r

'IT

lemon
ldetr I
mil'l
ru
m )Ia
nutmeg
nut, t: IX'Clall\ aim nd
or pecan

I Itch III
pmlme
prunc
..jum e

ral ... n!>

n ema!)
rum
au'rkraut
au I 'e
hell")
ur en: 1m
U'H

vanilla
vcnnouth
\In' 'aT

~alnut
"IOC,

red

<>gun

Many 0 these combinatIOns are considered clasSIC and are espeoaHy wide prac
bced These are ndtcated by boIdtaw type

(Sprmg)

ARTICHOKES
sausage
thyme
tomatoes
truffle" white
vinaigrette
wine, white

hollandaise sauce
lemon
mayonnaIse
Mornay sauce
mousseline sauce
mushrooms
olive oil
onIons
Parmesan cheese
parsley
perrer, e-pecially black
and red
remolLiade auce

aloiI
anchovies
bacon
bast!
bay leaves
bread crumbs
butter
cheese, goat
chervil
cream
cumm
fennel
garlic
hazelnut'

bake
braise
marinate
TOast

steam

<ait

ArtIchokes, Carrots and ZucchinI WIth Lemon and Dill-Joyce Goldstein

Baby Artichokes Fned WIth Lemon, Roast GarlIC and Shaved Parmesan
-JIMmy 5chrr dt

ArtIchokes Stuffed
-AI ce Waters

th Bread Crumbs AnchOVies Garltc and Parsley

ARUGULA
avOCil

(Summer)
lemon
h\c(11
P nne n ehe
r ta

hurter
carp, ee l
chee blu
garlte

pel:dfu

P1Cn(l1t
P( l(,Utle,
r,lvlu!t
walnut

Arugu a and Rad cch 0 w th Gorgonzola Pear. and Walnut

--5 sa Fe 9
S
"
App e and Arugu a Sa ad With Lemon and Capezzana Olive OJ!

-Geo ge Ge r on

Arugula Salad With Smoked Pears Sp ced Pecans and Sftlton Cheese
-C
Sc
I'Ig
Avocado Papaya and Arugu a Salad- Jer
Meyer Lemon and Arugula SOup-A

Wa! r

a Tow

(Win r)

BANANAS
cream
cream cheese
custard
eggs
fruits, especially tropical
(e.g., mango, papaya.
pineapple)
gm
ginger
honey
ice cream
Kirsch
lemon
lime
malt
maple , yrup
nut"
orange..;

alcohol
almonds
apricots
Armagnac
bacon
blueberries
brandy
brown sugar
butter
Calvados
caramel
cardamom
chicken
chocolate
cinnamon
coconut
Cognac
coriander

n tnllt
pecans
pmeapple,

pa~ll

pralme~

raspberne'
rum
SOllr cream
strawberries
sugar, brown or whitt:
vanilla
yogurt

bake
broil
poach
Tat('

"Rum can bnng up the flavor of bananas "-Fran~ols Payard

Banana-Toffee French Toasl-Susan Fenlge r & Mary Sue MillIken
Honey-F(led Bananas WIth Caramelized Gmger Sauce-Susanra Foo
Banana-Rum Ice-chns

Sc~ es ng6'

Grilled Sausage Skewers WIth Fresh Apncots, Jalapenos, and Chlpotie

Vmalgrette and Whole Gn/l-Roasted Banana-Ghns Scr'eSJnger
Roasted Banana Kugelhopf Double Dark Chocolate SemI Freddo
-Lydia Shire
Cuban Banana-Rum Custard Tart-Norman V n Aken

BARLEY
almonJ,
cabhage
ham

p.lr Icy
rea~

BASS
almonJ,
anchllvie
artichokes
butter
wpers

12

carTOh
chive"
Citrus

cOriander
fennel

girlie
glllger
leek
lemon

potatoes
shallots
thyme
tomatoes
wine, red

mint
mu~hrooms

,llive oil

oranges

peppers

BASS, STRIPED

bake
braise
fry
griU
Toast

(See also BASS)

basil
cream
dill

BEANS,BLACK
avocados
bacon
cheese, especially goat
chiles, e pecially serrano
chives
cilantro
coriander
cumin

eggplant
mustard
olives

roast

(Winter)

creme fraiche
epazore
garlic
ham hocks
jalapeno
Madeira
mint
onion

oranges
peppers
nee
salt pork
sour cream
tequila
tomatoe

Frijoles Refntos: Black Beans Fned with Garlic. Omon and Epazote. Topped
WIth Queso Fresco-Rick Bayless
Habaiiero Black Bean Soup With Avocado-Shnmp Salsa-Mark Miller

(Sprlng-Summer)

BEANS,FAVA
bacon

mushrooms

butter
CIlantro

olive oil
pancetta

cream

parsley

garbc

Peconno cheese

ham
Ieeb
lemon

roeemary

sage

salt

savory
pinach

thyme
vinaigrette

BEANS GREEN

aJmoods

anchovies
bacon

basIl
bechamel sauce

butter
chives
cream

dIll
garlk:
lemon

mushrooms
mustard

l8Vory
soureR,m

nutmeg
nuts, especially hazel
nuts
olive oil
onions
oregano

tomaltCet

parsley
pimentos

Itl II

rosemary

BEANS, LIMA
Noon
blown ....

IF lie

chreK.

white
walnuts
WOKelte....

boil
".".

Pannesan cheese

mmt

be.,

vine"t

SEAN SPROUTS

SEEF
basil

beer
bearnaise auce
hordelaise aUCe
Burgundy
carrot
chiles
chive
corn
hazelnut
horseradish

Madeira

soy auce

vinegar, especially wine

marrow
mushrooms
mustard
onions
orange
par ley
pepper, black
pepper
potatoes
prune
scallion
shallots

soy
vinegar, balsamic
wine, especially red

boil
braise
grill
marinate
pot-roast
roast
spit-roast

stew

Fillet of Beef with Oysters. Black Pepper, and Port Wine-Gary Danko
Gnlled Beef Tenderloin with Onion Beer Sauce, Horseradish Mayonnaise,
and Marble Potatoes-Bradley Ogden
Patma Smoked Beef Tenderloin wIth Horseradish Glazed Potatoes and
Spinach-Joach m Spl chal

BEEF HEART
horseradish

papnka
parsley

marjoram

rosemary

bacon

bake

I""use
griU

(Winter)

BEEF RIBS
gInger

horseradish

mustard
potat

tomatoe

n g

BEET GREENS
anchones
r.utter
horseradish

mustard
sour cream

saute

fennel
ginger
horseradish
lemon

smoked fish, especially

trout or whitefish
sour cream
tarragon
vinaigrette
vinegar, especially hal,amIC, sherry and
white wine
walnuts
walnut oil
watercress

BEETS
allspice
anchovies
apples
bacon
bechamel sauce
brown sugar
butter
cheee
chives
cloves
cream

ma.che
mustard
nutmeg
onton
orange
raprtka
parslev
potatoes
pr 'C1uno

creme [raiehe
cucumber
curf)
Jill
c u " , hard-c
~~

alt
alt rk
hclllor

ked

bake
hoil
steam

We were not th t. rst to do a beet nsollo. but I thmk the nsollo we serve IS
exc lmg We use organ c bets from a farm wh,ch were pIcked that mornmg
The color IS the most ntense fu ch a a vIbrant purple-red I used to hate
beets but I m mad about beets nght now I love the nchness and deepness
of therr f,avor- t s I ke an exp os on Lyd Sh re
Salad of P,C led Beets Oregon Blue Cheese and Walnuts-Gary DanKO
Beet Salad With Watercress and HorseradIsh Vmalgrelle-Mark Pee

BERRIES (See also specifIC berries)

brown ugar
cream

Framoot
maple vrup

BLACKBERRIES (See also RASPBERRIES)

apple
cmnam n
cream
c lard
honey

lemon
maple yrup
mIlle
mues"
( range

(Spring-Summer)
our cream
)ogurt

(Summer)
peache
pbern
r
ger mum
trawbern

. . . .n'd .... Umon$1\

JofceGoktllllt

_". PI Pc ... In LMnon CtutI wIIh V8Il . . 8 1

,,'1'

1fI_ _ _Jlmr", SctwNII

. _ , em'J? ur7l} sa..

_a ....

(Fall)

cream

panley
pepper, e pecially hot
tomato sauce
walnuts

creme fraiche
curry
prlic

ham
.

,_ . .eciI
I

del",

1811

o,e.w.r. Gruyae or

Pas

d.... '"
chivet

hollandaise sauce
lemon

bake

Momay sauce
mousseline sauce
mushrooms

puree

boil
deetrfry
raw

mussels
nutmeg

saute
steam

nuts

a..- crumN

olive 011

(Winter)

a
Is

n
m

parsley
potatoes

sour cream

shallots
moked

vodka

toast

lmon

ffr '1y ,lade Hot Potato Waffles Mth Ounce of Osetra CaVlar-Lydia Shire
Q J.

c..w LMnon Mannated Potatoes

and Some TradItIonal GamlSh

-IClIChiim spichaI

(Summer)
cuny

diU
fennel
holl8ndail.e sauce

walnu

(Fall Win r)

CELERY ROOT
bacon
bread crumb'
butter
caraway seeds
cheese. especially
Parmesan and
cream
fennel
garlic
hollandaise sauce
lemon

WI,S

mayonnal'e
mustard
nutmeg
olive oil
omons
parsley
potatoes
squash. butternut
thyme
"megar, especially
white wine

\\

lnut,

bod
braIse
dt!ep-fry

f0'

puree
raw

saHte
~ream

Savory Celery Root Flan and Vegetables a la Grecque, Essence of Sweet

Garlte and Kalamata Oltves-~Cnaf e Palmef
Celery Root Grattn-A'1ne Rosenzw 9
Celery Root wrth Mustard Mayonnaise-A. ce Waters

CEPES

(Fall)

bacon
bal leave

beam.lI

Juce
bre d crum
burrer
che c, pe I II
Gru}ere r P nn an
cream
egg
fennel
fl h
[Ole gr
garlic
lemon
lem nth m

mu t rd
nu me'
Ih oil
It .. c
pa n
Plrm n h
par Ie
p td
pepper
pot It
poultry

hake
brOil
fry

grill

butter
chef'. II
chIcken
cream

creme frauhe
q:p

uce

\\ III

raw

r n
hallot

CHANTERELLES
bechamel

our ere.lIn
truftle \\ hlte
vcrmouth
Vlnc .Ir, e peclally wme
\\ <.IIlll[
\\ Inut tI

1 h
game
garlic
herbs
leek
lem n
{fal

saule

(Summer-Fall)
ohH: uti
nan

panle
pep r "I
rahhll

h II [

CHICK PEAS
earn [
Cilantro
C0nanJer

ouscou
cumin
garlic

lemon
lemon. preserved
mmt
olive oil
onions
parsley

(Summer)
peppers. especially red
rosemary
spinach
tahini
tomatoes
yogurt

CHICKEN
coriander
corn
cranberrie
cream
curry
dill
endive
escarole
fennel
five-spice powder

{oie gras

achiort
almonds
apples

Annagnac
asparagus

_OIl

barbecue sauce

basil

beer
b&maise sauce
blood
brandy
bread emma.

Fontina chee
garlic
gmger
go chi berrie
grape
herb
honey
horseradl h
lemon
lime
Madeira
mangoes
marjoram
mmt
morels
m brooms

caN! IE

mustard

Catvado.

mussels
nutmeg
olive oil
olives
onaons
oranges
oregano

Qa" 1M
MUlE, pcwlly

chal'

parsley
peas
pecans
pepper
pineapples
plums
prunes
Riesling
rosemary
savory
sour cream
soy auce
tar ani e
tuffing
weetbread
weet potatoe
tarragon
tenyaki auce
thyme
tomatoe
truffles
vinegar. e pecially red
wme
walnuts
wine, e pecially white
yogurt

bak
braise
broil

fry

grill
marinate

roast

saute

en
paprtka

Parmesan cheese

I C()ftlinued OIl nat /lfJfI')

LIVERS
M.ieira

IDUIhrooms
onions

salt
IOUrcteam

penley
pepper

$ad CI*"'''' LIver CfOStini-George Germon & Johanne Killeen

,. r

11.~ ChIcken LiwHs with Apple Raisin Chutney, Spinach, and

It" 111 SS~ 0r8aIng-ChrIs Schlesinger

,.112 ext CIfj*-' WingII with Unorthodox Chopped LIVe,.

Joachim Splichal

(WInter)

6p
bam

.
". I"

.,

vinegar
walnuts

DUll
[

nile

1*-.

piltachlOl

rlrfbemes
rum

tea. elfecia1ly Ead 0Iey

vanilla
verbena

""'
*
1.
walnua

,.111"
__ and,., ...

MJ PI ,.,.,., . . . - -

COCONUTS
apricots
bananas
chocolate
custard
fruits, especially tropical (e.g., banana,
lime, mango, passion

(Fall)
fruit, pineapple)
nuts, especially tropical
(e.g., Brazil, cashew,
macadamia)
pineapples

coconut Mtlk TapIoca Croustillant with Saffron Coulis a d P'

Je.:.,-lOLlIS Pc: 3dl,)
n meappfe Sherbet
Macadamia Nut and Coconut Tart-L,ndsey Shere
Coconut Flan wIth Mango

In

Sauternes and Coconut Chiptr-.Norman Van Aken

COD
aioli
bay leaves
beans, black, fermented
black olive
butter
capers
caraway seeds
Champagne
chervil
conancler leaves
eggplant
garlic
gmger
hollandabe.auce
horseradbh
juniper berrIes

leeks
lemon
milk
mushrooms
mustard
oltve OIl
olive
onIOns
parsley
pepper
potatoes
rosemary

ake
shallot
:oy auce
thyme

tomatoes
truffles
vinaigrette
vinegar, especiaHy sherry
Wine, white

boil
braise
bruil
fry
pan-fry
poach

roast,
saute
steam

Sauteed Fresh Codfish with Vegetable Basqualse-Je~f' Lo.) s Pa 3d!1

Eqgpant-Crusted Ma'ne Cod ~ ,h Bay Shnmp Thyme Roasted Vegetables.
ana Port w'''e Essence-C"larl p ... 'TlePan Fr ed Cod With Tomato-Mmt Yogurt Sauce-Cr- s Scl'Jleslrger

C ' d At a'll c Cod In Proveoyal Tom:.1to. Garlic and Bas/I Broth- A, ce Wale's

111

lettuCe. 81 bb
{.otIi dresstng
Madeira
mangoe

mayonnaise
momay sauce
muhroom
mustard

nutmeg
onions
orange

parsley
pepper. black
potatoes

rernouiade
rice
scallions
sherry
sour cream
tarragon
Thousand Island dress109

Tabasco sauce
tomatoes

truffles. black
vinaigrette
vinegar
wine. white
Worcestershire sauce

boil
poach

Peeky Toe Crabmeat Salad with Avocado and Citrus Vinaigrettes

_Terrance Brennan

portuguese Crab Cake, Avocado, Papaya, Watercress, and Mint with CitrusHot-Pepper Vinaigreffe-Joyce Goldstein
Timbale of Vtrginia Lump Crabmeat and Spinach MOusse-Patrick O'Connell
Mustard-Crisped Crab Cakes on an Acorn Squash Ratatouille
-Anne Rosenzweig

Crab Ravioli with Black Truffles--Jeremlah Tower

Crab Salad with Mango, Cumin Crisps, and Gramy Mustard
-Jean-Georges Vongenchten

Dungeness Crab Cake with Meyer Lemon and Pepper Sauce-AI ce Waters

(Spring-Summer)

CRABS, SOFT-SHELL
almonds
basil

honey

beaN. black

lemongrass

butter

lime

capen
caJiOb

mayonnal
pancetta

cayenne

parsley

chiv
diU

pepper

aarlic

pagnoh
soy sauce

Iia I!r

lemon

Pernod

pinach
tartar sauce
tomatoes
vinaigrette
vinegar

broil

~e~fry

griU

""'"

SoIr-st.l CnIb with Pancetta Butter-Jean Lou 5 Pa ladin

AId SolI Shell Crabs Mth SpiCy Carrot Sauce MIChael Romano

ftM.Cooud SolI Shell CntbB with papaya and Llme--NorJnan van Aken

(Fall)

CRANBERRIES
apples
cinnamon
cloves

oranges
pears

sugar
walnuts

(Spring)

CRAYFISH
avocados
basil
bay leaves
brandy
bread crumbs
butter
carrots
cayenne
cheese, espeCIally
Gruyere and
Parmesan
C ognac
coriander

cream or milk
dill
garlic
hollandaise sauce
leeks
lemon
mayonnaIse
nutmeg
onions
parsley
saffron
shallots
,herry

sorrel
tarragon
thyme
tomatoes
truffles
vinegar
wine, white

boil
grill
saute
stew

Chilled Crayfish and Cranberry Bean Soup with Ratatouille and Opal Basil
-Dar e Bouud

Warm Salad of Crayfish with Cucumbers and D,II-Jererrlla'1 Tower

CUCUMBERS
ancho\'ie,
ba,t1
burter
celery eed
chervil
chile,
chives
cilantro
cream
cream chee'e
dill
fennel
Feta chee e

14

(Spring-Summer)

ho r eradl h
lemon
lime

pepr er
alt
.,our cream
strawberries
tomato ~ucc

man!.,! e

[oma[oe~

mayonnal e
mint

vinegar, especldlly
white wme
yogurt

garlic
gln!.{t!r

nutme~

o!tve 011
onions, e,p':cl(lll; rcd
rar,ley

rau
simmer

CURR NTS
Immd
heme

cream
pears

(Summer)
prunes
raspberries

e qUIte often used to rem force th l

a k nd of lemon.-oJ 1'1e G. 9son
e favor of other frwt, as if

CUSTARDS
almond,
banana,
berne
caramel
cherry
ch colate
cmnamon
coconut

coffee
Cognac
Cointreau
gmger
lemon
maple
Mar~ala

passion fruit
pineapple
nee
rum
trawberries
vanilla

orange,

Chocolate Bf/oche Custard Bread Puddmg wdh Chocolate Sabayon

--8nd ey Ogden
Chillea Pmeapple-Moscato Zabaglione---NI ct,ael Romu'1o
Banana Creme BrOlee-L ndsey Shere
Caramel Rice Fla". - aney Silerton
Truffle Custard With Asparagus and Lobster Sauce-JreM
Smoked Salmon Custard W th Fennel Ju ce-Jea'l Georges

r Tower
Vongerlc~ten

(Spring)

DANDELION GREENS
bacon
chee e
garlt

lemon

rI
o\t\e II
mu

omon
vmegar. e"peCially red
Wine

(Fall)

DATES
almond
pnco
bacon

Clnn,)mon
cream
cream chee e

br nd
l. rame!

gmger
nut

choc.ol te

orange

pecans
rum
vanilla
walnuts

DUCK

currants. blKk
cuny

dude hvets
figs
garlic
gin
.
gmaer

Grand Manlier
hoisin sauce
honey
jumper berries

ktmKp J8tJ

lemon
lentils

EGGPLANT (continued)
F

Soy BraIsed Chinese Eggplant wIth ZucchIni and Mushroom

Grilled Eggplant with Shallot and OlIve

ad

Mark M ;er

EGGS

anchovies
asparagus
bacon
bread
butrer
carer

ENDIVE
apple,
bacon
heans, "hit
beets
blue che e
hr J crum
butter
chee e, e peel II
Gru\ r r P rm
cr ~ m

f.
Ou S do 'ld
Bue Ch

(Winter)

ugar
tangennt
thyme
vin igrettl':
walnuts
watercress

hm

u c
Ins

rt

brmse

hee e

rau
m

h.
1m n r trout

.all}

saute
teu

d Wat rere 5 ~ 'h W. nut

Bacon Pe.Jrs

"0" ",,!I
WIS.'>.

End v

parsley
pepper
peppers, green
potatoes
ratatouille
salt
scalltons
shallots
shrimp
smoked salmon
sorrel
spinach
tomato
truffles
watercress

caviar
cheese
chicken livers
chives
crab
cream
croutons
fines herbes
ham
herb,
hollandaise auce
morels
mu-hroom
onion'
Parm em chee,

App e nd Cre

nd B ue Chee~;e ~

tn H

tAp

FrJ'e

ESCAROLE
apple,
bacon
.
cheese, especially
Fontina, ~1o:2arella,
and Roquefort
chiles
cal'er~

(Winter)

currants
eggs
garlic
olive oil
olives
onions
vmegar

walnuts

braise
raw

saute

FENNEL
butter
celery root
cheese, especially goat,
Gruyere. and
Parmesan
chesmuts
coriander
cream
fruit
garlic
hearrs of palm

(Fall)
lemon
mushrooms
olive oil
oltves
Onions
oranges
pancetta
Parmesan cheese
peppers
Pernod

potatoes
sherry
thyme
tomatoes
truffles
vmaigrette

braise
raw

saute

Braised Fennel with Prosciutto and Parmesa~ Nor'l1an V(}."1 Aker

Shaved Fennel and Parmesan with Summer Truffles-Alice Waters

(Spring)

FIDDLEHEAD FERNS
bacon
butter
hollandaise sauce
leels
lemon

nutm~

deep-fry

oltve oil

steam

onlOn~

,hallob
vinaigrette

(Summer-Fall)

FIGS
almonds
ant e
hr<>wn ugar
caramel
cheese, e peclally blue
and g t
chOCOlate

cinnamon

creme fralehe

cinnamon basil
cients reel, candled
coconut cream
Cointreau
C rnmeal
cream
cream che e

Curai):ao
ginger
honey
la\'ender
lemon
Marsala
(conunued on ""XI page I

creme ang/mse

"

119

FI H SMOKED
3H. do,
c~ra'

cr~Jm .: h~ese

cucumhers
eggs, hard-hoiled
horserad ish

lemon
onions

FLOUNDER
hutter
C,'gn3c
lerncm
rnu,hro,lm s

mustard

braise
broil

grill

poach
Saute

Fiounder IS really, really mild I thmk you've gotto be

I
I
d
v.
very careful when you
cook "oun er rOU ve really got to keep It very very si I y:
mask It qu ekly -.Jasper White
mp e. ou can really

FOIE GRAS

(Fall)

all'pice
apples

garbc

artlchok~ hearts

grapes

hlooJ range~
handy
cabbage
cel~r)' root
,
cel'es
cherne
Cinnamon
clovt"
Cognac
curran
eu tard
Jalkon

t!reen

r:

gratn~

lemo n
lo!- rer
Madelf'\
mu hroom
nutmeg
nUb
OnlOl1s
pc he,
pepper, bbc:k
pi t. hi ),
polent,l

pomegranates
port \l'me
Ljumces
ral,m
~,1It

shallot
'tar ani,e
t rragan
truffles
turml'
vmegar, especi.llty sherry
walnuts
wme, espeCialty
auternes

e l ness of 10 e gras s complemented by frUits wh ch add a tart or ae d c

po ent , e served t w th toasted panettone wh ch has candled rmd m
e Fo e Gra Au Po vre w th Organ c Gram Salad Carrot and
nmO"'anate ~na grette-Terrdnce Bre r a
Fo

w th FUj Apples Carme zed Omans VefJus Sauce

Gras n F e h Herb and Back Pepper Gelee served

1 ounce lleeu lentilt

1/2
11th, blanched

.... 1_

ounce .._ _ n I ted in butter

Iftd ra.Slid in
.......... oil
Ira ..

17 I

"'met'

GOOSE
apples
blrkl
CJhb.1(:':
(er('~

chestnuts
<,arhc
~

gln~er

hl11l<1nJ<llse s<lLlce

h"nc\'

horseradish
lemon
mustard
onions
oranges
pepper
plums
potatoes
prunes

nce
sauerkraut
soy sauce
stuffing
turnips
wild rice

roast

GRAPEFRUIT
hanana'
bnl"cb 'rr~ L1ts
G.lmran
cJ,he w,
Chamrag ne
cheese, 'l,(t
chICory
cabhage, napa
C1tnl' frUits, other
COll1treau

(Winter)
coriander

pineapple
pomegranate
raspbernes
rosemary
rum
shellfish
sherry
strawberries
sugar, especially brown
vodka

Cura~ao

fi"h
gm
Grand Mamier
honey
melon
mmt
offal
oran!,."!e

C ''Us Compote WIth Ruby Red GrapefrUIt Gran'te- -Brad ey Ogdc!l

GrapefruIt and Pomegranate Tart-I.linmy Sct:'Tl d

Pmk GrapefrUIt and Champagfle Sherbel-LlOdsey Shere

Grapefru I-Campan Gramte-...

n G:...org

(Summer-Fall)

GRAPES
brandy

brown ugar
chee e, e pectally soft
"hlte (e.g., Brie)

Vongenchter

lemon
melon
mmc

ra pberne

our cream
,traw\)erries
....'3lnub
wme

GREENS
bacon
butter

cre-dm

garlic

ham
!em >n

mmt
mu hroom
mu tard
onion

pancetta

,alt pork
,lu>,lgc
<;oy
vinegar

walnuts

pepper, black

125

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES
btch,lmei ,auce
bueter
cream
garlIc
g!O~er

ha:eln ut

hollandaise sauce
lemon
Mornay sauce
Parmesan cheese
parsley
scallions

chiles
cilantro

citrus, especially lime

cucumbers

bake
boil
fry

puree
steam

(Winter-Spring)

JICAMA
cayenne

(Winter-Spring)

lime
mangoes
oranges
salt
vinaigrette

pan-fry
rau.

Ersalada de Jicama ' Jicama Salad with Cucumber, Pmeapple and Tangy
Orange Dressmg-Rick Bayless
Watercress and Jicama with Lime & O/Jve 011
-Susan Fer geT & Mary Sue Mill en

JOHN DORY
bast!
hay leaves
hutter
caviar
chives

lemon
lemon thyme

cream

~dge

garlIc

,hallm

mu,hro m'

(h)me
tomatoes
WlOe, e peel,llIy white

rar,ley

peppers, red and ~ello\\

poach
saute
steam

(Winter)

KALE
bacon
cheese

cream

garlic
lemon
oltve ot!

0l110n,

potatoe,

KIDNEYS

Madeira
tvlar,aia
ml)rels
mushrooms
mustard
nutmeg
onions
rancetta
parsley
nee
salt

brandy
butter
cayenne
ceres
CLlgnac
cream
curry
gin
h,)r'erad ish
jU!1lrer berne,
lemon

,h,lllot
,herry
" lur c.re,ln1
verm()uth
watercres
wine. red or white

broil
fry
smite

(Winter)

KIWI FRUIT

PfI.)

lime

appb
bcmana:
cucumber,

nut'. e,pecldll) c \,he\\ '.

ha: lnuh .lml

ma

h ne~
Klr h

ellitt,)

rrawherrie
(,lmarillo

L'Iml1

rlO_
P;: I n frull

Icm n

Pa son Pru t Blood Orange and Meyer

S g r nd Coo les-Joyc Go d

Easte Bas et f Sorb t

Lemon Ba
d
CodK

(Wmter)

KOHLRABI

km

behJmel
l'-uner

nutm
p r le

bake
bOIl
team

(Fail-Winter)

KUMQUATS
m
mertppl

1\ t

II

fal

rum

\ !nllla

\udk 1

(Spring)

CllU'Cl1U,

crah
cream
cumin
currant,
curry
dalhm

almond,
an(ho\'ie~

am-eed
apple'
.prICo t '
artichoke heart

oocon
basil
bJ\ leave,
beans, e'pcclJlly t1a~eolet:. Teen or \\ hlte
Huebernc
bread rumb
capeT'
,arJam m
ca~enne

chee e, c pe 1.111 F ta
and Parm 111
(hernc~, JneJ
ur

h tnut pur

chI!
hl\c

(Ilinn
c,nn m n

\.1

dill
eggplant
endive
fennel

fOie gras
garlic
!:!tn!:!C r

!!rapefruit
Nemolata
h.I:e1nu ,to~ ted
honey
Jumper berne
lemon
Mademl

mint
m )Tel
muhr m
mu t rd
mu rd
It .. Oil

or

0 'C

lr

1J.O

tarra~on

thyme
tomatoes
truft1e" e'rectally black
veal ktJney'
vmal!:!rctte
\ me ar, c, LClllly red
\\me
\\alou
"ine, C'Pl' iallv red
yo<~urt

ZlI Lhml

0\1\
001

pignoli
pimIentos
pineapple
plums
pomegranates
prunes
red peppers
rhubarb
rice
rosemary
rum
sage
soy
star amse
tamarind

bake
br(lJse
brOIL

gn,j

par 1 ..
pem
pepper. bl k

roast

d0 A

n rYlb

,(.

And I tn (.

5
yJU

HprtJf,a P

Yogurt

Lamb in P
weatring

th

eet Potatoes

Paafl:k ()'C-c eU
ATLn'1U1 WASHINGToN
it. _,

"'p.

-Iat:: ........ for niDety-eiaht doUan. INrh

Mft IP do me nat bat thiDa- 1love t.becue
rho II Q . ' ' ' . , ill &oaa New YcIIk

-,...... --

die

IIIIkxllAl

ftavoa

"he

tbmuah.

1111
km ,.. . . ., 4C ID
_IDa Ie. 7lofp'sre
.....~. . t:l
p:pd.
rl

our ....

,e._.

""IIcp"...... "W. ""_

7~ 1*17&

tee.

the

II

Cd." _ _rial ,wen poe.

+lD

Red \VinL Suuce

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1/3 cup chopped white mushrooms

1 carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
1/2 onion, coarsely chopped
1 shallot, coar ely chopped

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

2 tea pOClOS fre h

ro~emary

fre~h

tarragon

2 tea:r )on,

2 b,l\" leaw.
2 quart chicken lOck or water
,It-erncr

_ (dbl

( melt 1 p",re

1t

Ie I nJ choppe I

nd rc hi
lU

Pl'l per to (,lte

IU

TIll

U'

teel hlade. puree the kel.:hur,

mu t lrd. 'Tilh, co, IOtl hrown II ',Ir. et
\ rid \ m Itl\, nee ntl kept re Tlg-

rv."'1
"VlC ;

3uvignon

d
1 In

un

au

II ver m dlUm-hl h
nd hilt !Od cook until the

t, he [the
nt

re

eep
r 5 ( 6 mmute. tlrrmg ({ pre\ em

3
me <VII""
ttrrm

\I,

tT

II

r)

m ( , nJ

until r d

tI

kl .

rrag n, b l~ Ie l\ , t k r \I, t r r
It nd pepper. Immc:r t r 1 1 <h If dJlt t th

4. F,lr each (UP of 'trained wine sauce, add 2 tablespoons of the barbecue
Thl' ~,l\lce may he made several da\Js
in advance and ke Pt re f'nger",lU(l~.
1
,lre,1.
[0 cook

I. Preheat the ll\'en to 400

lamb

SeaSlm the lamh with salt and pepper and brush each side with the basic
.' barbecue sauce.
3. Grill L1f broil the lamb enough to crisp and lightly char the exterior on al\
1

<ides.
4. Place the lamb in a roasting pan and finish baking for about 14 to 15 minutes (for medium rare).

5. Remove the lamh, place on a cutting board. and let rest for 5 minutes. Lay
the blade of a sharp knife against the hone and slip the meat off in one
piece.
6. Roll the boneless loins fir,t 10 the ha,ic harhecue 'auce, then in the
pecan. lice each loin into 6 medallion.

To cnc
\. Reheat the harbecue-t1avored red wine auce.

2. Place 3 medallton on each of 6 hot serving plate. Dribble the wine auce
over the plate. Gami h With ,ute d green bean.

hoe tring neet Potatoe

1 large weet

2 qu

rt peanut

taw, peeled
r vegetahle il

1. Heat the oil to 350.

2. U 109 a mandolme or harp knife, ut the potatoe into very fine julienne
matchsuc .
3. Sprinkle th Julienned potatoes IOta the hot oil and tiro allowing them to

cook for 20 to 30

and .
4. U ll\g a mesh dlpper or lotted poon. remove the potaote from the oil and
dram on paper towels.

Ie WIth it to

teo

LMf1B SHANKS
flageolets
garlic

lemon
wine, red

braise

parsley
salt pork

shallots

LAMB'S LIVER
butrer
cream

LA B'S TONGUE
artIChokes
basil
curry

fennel
garlic
oltves

tomatoes
vinaigretre

(Fall)

LEEKS
hacon
bechamel Juce
heet,
bread crumb
butter
chee e, e peel ll~
Cheddar, 0 t, n
Gruy re
cream

fl h

holl,mJal~e ~allce

lemon
mOll . e I me alice
mll ard
olive II
P rme an chee e
par le\
pe
po toe
thyme

tomatoes
vinaigrette
wine. red

boil
braise

puree
. . team
stell

(Spring)

LEMON
almond
card m m
ch
late

It

currant ,bl ck
h ne)
hme

Of CnIOC()/,

p ppy eed
ra pberne
trawbernes

WIth

Fr('sf> Summer Beme~ In Almond Tuiles

,
r

C'

tL

Ally

'J1

M usse',ne wIth NdtlVC Strawberries and WhIsked Cream

(Winter)

LENTILS
bacon
bay lea\'es
cheese, Feta and goat

fDle gras
garlic
ham
lemon
mint
olive oil
P stB.

E Ir

onlOns
parsley
peppers
pork fat
prunes
radishes
sausages
scallions
sorrel

spinach
thyme
tomato sauce
tomatoes
vinegar, especially sherry or wine

puree
simmer

Lent I and Prosc utto Sauce- G 0 q G rl""or & Johanre Killeen

r L Ilt I TOf71 tv (. nd lobster S lad served ,'/ th Cucumber Vma,grette

Joe

(Spring)

LETIUCES
anchone

avocado
chee~e

egg yolk.

garltc
lemon
ma\Onnal e

ITIu't<lrd

oil, c,peclally 11: zelnut,

olive, p anut, ,n I
w lnut
ani n
p<:pper
~

vmalorene
vinegar, especially bal~amIC, Cider and red
wme

braISe
rau

It

t o t e p" nc pa fouf'dat on of tf10

el (. h
E y'l
R

t d Gar c md Roquefort

l tt..;c

'II

(Summer)
LIME
bananas
coconut

rum

lemon
raspberries

(Summer)

LITCHI NUTS

kiwi fruit

cream

coconut

LOBSTER
coral
coriande r
corn
couscous
cream
creme frafche

curry
endiyc
fennel
foie gras
garlic

anChO\'le'
ant,erre
apple-

~lnge r

grapefruit
holland 11 e ,met'
h r era It h
Ie k
lemon
lem m h I Ii
tern ngra
!tOle

a'p,lra~u'

aWlC, Jo~
bauJIl
basil
h rdclal
oourholl
hrand,
hr..: Id crum!butter
.
caVIar
ca)enne
chee L, peo
herm
..:her\'iI
htle
~h i \t:,

ClJer
ell otT
coc mut
Cogna

11detr I

PernoJ
pOrCl1l.1
port
portobellos
quinna
n ce
saffron
seaweed
shallots
,herrv
star ,tnise
tarragon
thyme
t, )nhllle ),

tomatoes
truffles, h\.lCk
vanilla
v tn,lIgrette
vlmgar, e.,pecially
\\ hue \\ ine
"inc, white

ma}Onnal,e

11\

ml~

1I

mw,hroom
mu tard

tl\e

It

hake
bOIl
brOIl

gnU

nil III
orange
, te

pan-fry
pooch

r r nb

ute

par le~

perrer, bhlCk

f )(lS(

(tam

- I.

the peppers by placing them whole on a

b '1
n open gas flame
11 or under the rol er. Cook, rotating on 11 'd
or outdoor
gn '
.
a Sl es, for about
'
un nl the skms are black. Put the peppe . .
b
ten mmure~,
rs m a owl and
'
, tt C \\Tap. Allow to cool for 15 minutes Using
h
cover with
l' la~
,
.
your ands, eel ff h
-harred skm. Discard the cores, stems, and seeds D '
h
POt e
L
'd
. Ice t e roasted peppers
and set a,1 e.
3'[
['.0.

t:'

2. Plunge the lobsters headfirst into a large pot of boiling water and cook for
'
5 (0 6 minutes. Transfer, them to a colander and cool under co Id runnmg
\\'ater. Cut the lobsters m half lengthwise and remove th e meat fr am the
Keep the lobster
claw meat intact in l a
'
ta il<., legs, and claws.
.
,
gerpieces
and
reserve for garnish. Cut the tall meat into 3 to 4 pieces each. Cover the
lobster meat with plastic wrap and set aside.

3. Put the qumoa into a fine strainer and rinse under cold running water to
remove any residue of its bitter husks. Drain thoroughly.

4. Bring the vegetable broth

to a boil in a medium saucepan. Meanwhile,

heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medIUm-high heat. Add the
onion and garlic and cook for 4 to 5 minute~. until tender. Add the chile
powder and quinoa and cook for about 2 mmute, until hot, stirring to prevent ~tick mg.

i Remove the pan from the heat and arefully ur th bodmg broth over
the qumoa. Return ro heat and bnn to a Immer, tming. ~ ea. on to taste
with salt and a generous do e of hlac . pt:pp r. Coo - or ab ut minutes,
stirnng frequently, unul mo t \ f the Ilqul I ab rbed but the qumoa is
still moist.

6. AJd the corn, ro.l red perr er , n 10 ter to the uinoa and cook for
about 3 mmute , until heated through. dd th ba~tl and cook the ri otto gently for bout 2 minute, 1 n,.!er, until the Tl otto is )ltghtly moi t and
cream).

~ur 0

ten.

i. Place a generou ervmg

no m the center 0 each pldte. Take care

ld
to dIVI'd e t h e I td evenl) aml n t h
p .He
an ror eal,;' h ,et\'lng with a
piece of claw meat. (,arnl)h e ch with J. pri' of hasll and ~et\'e.
0

fI

-- - -

--

143

MAHIMAHI
avocados
chiles
cilantro
coconut
cumin
fruits, especially
tropical
garlic

tomatoes

gmger
grapefruit
lime
olive oil
papaya
parsley
pineapples
soy sauce

bake
broil
grill

saute
seaT
steam

Baked EClJadortan Mahlmah, Stuffed With Shredded Crab and Rock Shrtmp
Sa/picon and Served With Roasted Tomatoes Capers. Olives and Herbs
-R ck Bayle.s

Mahimahl With Pmeapple-CoconJt Sauce- Sl! ...<.r'1a Faa

Grtlled Mah'man, With Summer Bean Salad and Tomato Vlflalgrette
-Brad ey Ogde r

Sauteed Mahmahl wdh Cucumbers Mangoes and Cllantro---Jeremmn Towe'

MANGOES
almond,
blackberne
clove
coconut
fhh

(Summer)
shellfbh
star anise

lime
papa)~

p _ IOn fruit
pmeapple,

bake
freezing
poach
saute

ra,pbcrric~

\ZInger

rum

Kirsch
lemon

_iluternc

tt e peppery flavo'"
or

ke

MARROW
artichoke heartS
ca~ennt;

YOiJ Upl And

an b fo e It

But f Y u Spm"/\,111
wakes up th m
beaut IU "",..,.,h"n::ll';nn

lemon

MASCARPONE
h,mJ), ltyueur
fnll t , e,recially
strawberries

mushrooms
polenta

sugar

Fresh FrUit Gratin wIth Mascarpone Custard

...{;eorge Germor & Johanne Killeen

puff Pastry Strawberry Tart with Mascarpone Cheese-J oyce Goldstein

'
Creamy Polenta wIth MascarpOne-Michael Romano

MELON

(Summer)

ba,il
berries
Champagne
chiles
Cognac
Cointreau
cucumber
Cura~ao

gmger
\:rare fnnt
Grand Mamie[
hlme\,

Ice cream
Ices
Kirsch
lemon
lime
Madeira
mint
mu,cat
nut,
oran~es

pear
perr er

port wine
prosciutto
raspberries
salt
sherry
strawberries
vanilla
wme, espeCially sweet

free<.e
rau.

Amelon that was perfect yesterday may be too rtpe today. so we wouldn't
serve It SImply sliced on a plate--we d make It mto a sherbet ~ A, ce Waters
Thai Melon Salad with Cilantro and lim&- Su:m Fen ger & May Sue Milliken
Fresh Melon-Basil Sa/ad with Habanero-Mark M ar
Charenta s Me on with Beaumes-de- Vemse Sabayon-L 'ldsey Shere

(Winter)

MONKFISH
aloh

artIChoke
pamgu

bacon
hutter. e pc
canb c
Ptr;

carrot
er 11

1,111, broy. n

CIder
COriander
erC'm
curry
cnn.:!
garlic
gmger
leek
lemon
lemongra~s

~Lmala

mushrooms
olIve uti
uItves
rar.;ky
red'
perr er,
ro~emar\

.;aftmn

next ~,)

'corum'

145

MONKFISH

(continued)

tomatoes
wine

sage
shallots
sherry, dry
soy sauce
thyme
Monkfish

Tn

bake
braise

griU

roast
saute
steam

Lemongrass and Coconut Broth

-Susan Femger & Mary Sue Milliken

Roasted Monkfish with Cauliflower Served with Caper-Raisin EmulsIon

Flavored with Nutmeg-Jear-Georges VongerlcNen

(Spring)

MORELS
asparagus
bread crumb
butter
chervil
chicken
chives
cream
cu,tard
eggs
garlic
lemon

OOions
Parmesan chee e
parsley
peas
pepper
potat

shallots
sour cream
tarragon
tomatoes
truffles
watercress

POUltTV

r emary
alt
Sautem
C

11 ps

bake
cream

fry
stew

(FaU)

MUSHROOMS
almon
anchovi
hacon
barley
ba it
bordelalse auce
bread crumbs
butter
caraway seed
cayenne
cheese, e peclally
Gruyere and
Parmesan
chervil
chives
coriander
cream

creme frafche
Jill
eggplants
egg
fl h
garlic
grape
gremolata
ham
lemon
Madeira
marjoram
marrow
mascarpone
mIDt
Mornay sauce
mustard

nutmeg
nuts
olive oil

omon

oranges
oregano
oyster sauce
pancetta
papnka

parsley
pasta
peas

pepper. black
puvapple
plStBChlOl
potatoeS
ao_l

.",.,.

rosemary
<ausag es , especially
, smoked
<:;auternes
shallots
shellfish
sherry
sorrel
sour cream
~

spinach
stock
tarragon
thyme
tomatoes
vinegar, especially wine
walnut oil
walnuts
wine, red or white

bake
broil
fry
grill
puree
raw
Saute
steam

A por/obello Mushroom Pretending To Be a Filet Mignon with a Roasted

Shallot and Tomato Fondue---Pa'f'ck O'Connell

W" '1 Mushroom Tarts-Ar"1e Roserzwe'g

potato and Forest Mushroom Lasagna with Ch,ve Sauce---Joachim Splichal
Mushroom Caps wIth Bone Marrow-Jeref"llar Tower

(Fall-Winter)

MUSSELS
fennel
garlic
leeks
lemon
ltme
mayonnaise
mushrooms
olive oil
onions
orange
pancetta
parsley
pepper, black
Pemod
pesta
nce

aioli
anchovies
aniseed
bacon
basil
bay leaves
beans, white
bread crumbs
butter
cayenne
chervil
chives
cilantro
Cognac
cream
curry

saffron
shallots
snails
spmach
thyme
tomatoes
vinaigrette
\'megar
wine, white

brad
gnll

pan-fry
steam

F"rfTI-R3 sed CanadIan Mussels m Tab3sco-Style Escabec ... e (Extra Virgm

o e 0 FrUit Vm.-.ga r Garftc Sweet Spices and AromatIC Vegetables)

y
Mu Sf? S WIth Green Garftc Thyme and Toasted Rye Bread-Mark Pe'
..Jr

F '.i
\1

d Mu se s With Garl c ar,d Tomatoes--J

"T''T

Y Sc'lnldt

Pasta w th Pnnce Edward Island Mussels.

nd Crouton-A
W t r
'71

M repolX Saffron

d w th WhIte Wme Garlte and Fresh Herbs-Ja

;lE'r

W~

14

MUTTON
mushrooms
tarragon

CalvaJos
capers

thyme

(Summer)

NECTARINES (See also PEACHES)

cherries
cinnamon
figs
ginger
nuts

almonds
berries
blackberries
blueberries
caramel
Champagne

orange
peaches
pepper, black
raspberries
vanilla

NOODLES, EGG
tomato sauce

bread crumhs

OCTOPUS
lemon
p. rslt."
\me' r
\\ ine. red

ha,ll

hay leave
chen"il
garltc:

grill
stew

(Summer)

OKRA
ha'll

aut

km n

nlon
plf d~

tomatoes
vmaigrette

pepper, bbck
pepper. e pectalh
'reen

saute

tew

(Fall)

ONIONS

rrl
bacon

butter
c.hee;e ucc especially
Oleddar r Gn.J)cre
clfin m n

mu hroom
nutmeg
paprika
Parme n che
par ley
pepper, bl de
ra lfiS
It

herry

sorrel
thyme
tomat

lICe

bJke

fry
grill

/:xlii
bra1;e

rau'

roast
Saute
steam

use rw or"c;"S but you always wash tnem really well >lfter
,LJ eL'
(X,",,'ft.""
. . ~", <'r you 1<.;1 th:;om CO",K for fivE' m,nutes In clcldulated w,lter made
f ' ~ lf71e ,Jr limtgar or you douaJ them redl heavily With sour orange JUIce
II,
'
V'I tnem SIt for two hours or you blanch them for fhlfty seconds In
'nd
~t1!, c'
~
fhere are all these dIfferent vdnat,ons on working With raw omons
l
WJte t kt'epm(/ the fresh, rL/W crispness to them On the other hand, we do
' of dIshes where we throw whole onions down Into the f/fe and let
8~~:.J~~er
8I
blacken on the outside, becausE' there s a sort of steaming that haptt1e:s on the mSlde. which I:; very different from trying to gnU It or cook It on a
(IE I P or s-)methmg "ke thelt tJlready slIced R CK Bayless
fat 0
.... of Five Oman Soup--Joyce Goldstell"
'L' yOU

Crea'"

~'1.:od-RoaS'ed Oman Wed wilh Spoon of Sdky Macomber Turnip-Lydia Shire

(Winter)

ORANGES
Annagnac
~asil

brandy
cardamom
chipotle peppers
chocolate

mangoes
olives
pecans
sherry

cinnamon
coconut
Comtreau
ginger
Grand Marnier
Kirsch

Orange and Armagnac Sherbet- Lnd

yS

strawberrie~

vanilla
r

Grand Marmer Souffle vlth Orange Custard Sauce- J

'fT: l~'

(Winter)

ORANGES, BLOOD
citrus fruit, especia1Jy
grapefruits and tan-

Tower

pomegran.lt~

gerine

OXTAILS
garlic

grapes
gremolata

Madeira
mustard

onions
pepper, black
prunes
haJlots

tomatoe

wine, reJ e pecially

Burgundy

braise
steU'

149

(Fall- Spr n )

OYSTERS
fennel

foie gras
garlic
ginger
horserad ish
ketchup
leeks
lemon
lime
mace
marjoram
mignonette sauce
mint
mustard
nutmeg
onions
pancetta
paprika
Parme:an chee, e
parsley
pepper, black
Pemod
porat

ale, beer, or stout

allspice
anchovies
artichokes
bacon
bay leaves

beurre blanc
bread, brown
bread crumbs
.
caViar
cayenne
Champagne
chiles
chive
cilantro
cream
cucumbers
curry

5alt
sauerkraut
scallions
sea urchin roe
shallots
sherry
shrimp
snails
spinach
Tabasco auce
thyme
vinegar, especially
champagne
wine, white
Worcestershtre .auce

bake

moil
deep-fry

gnU
poach
Tau.'

roast
- IIltt!

tw

eg~

Fncasee of Pemmaqu d Oyster

to Salsify, Leeks, Fmgerlmg Potatoes
and Pancetta ( th or thoul Osetra Caviar) 1 r !lee Br r an
Glazed Oysters th Lee Fondue and Osetra Caviar -Gary Dar. 0
Fanny Bay and Po nt Reyes Oysters Wi th Malt Vmegar Dressmg and
Homemade Cae ta Sauce-8 d y Ogd
Kumamoto Oysters

1.'

th Champagne M gnonette and Pumpernickel Toast

Mark Pe

Oysters Poached n Champagne-J

Hog Istand Oyster Chowder
A ce a er

PAPAYAS
avocad
C3\ennc
chlclc.en

Wi th

New Potatoes and Smoked Bacon

(Spring ; Fall)
chll
CQConUl re m
coriander

cumlO
gmger

Parma ham
passion fruit
peaches
pineapple
porr

strawberries
sugar
vanilla
Taw

spinach. Avocado and Papaya Salad with Orange-C

.
umln Dressing

-ChriS Schlesmger

Napoleon of Strawberry and Papaya with Passion F 't

saLlces-Jlmmy Schmidt
rw and Raspberry

(Winter)

PARSNIPS
lemon
Madeira
nutmeg
parsley
pepper, black
potatoes
sorrel

almonds

butter
chives
cjnnamon
curry
garlic
hazelnuts

tarragon
walnuts

boil
deep-fry
griU

puree

(Fall)

PARTRIDGES
juniper berries
lemon
lentil
mushrooms
onions
oysters
parsley
peppercorns, green
sage
sauerkraut

almonds
appln

t.c:on
cOM&"
cCpa

chocolate
cream
curry

fait,.
.tk

hallot
tarragon
truffles
wme

braise
poach
roast

saute

Wid Pattlidge with a Red Cabbage Conf,t and Fall FrUIt Chutney
801 .,
YOWIg Roe .., PaJtlidge with Chnstmas Pears of Muscat and Spice

~"'d
r,...,

"""fdUe

MIh Cabbage Pearl Omons, Apple-Smoked Bacon, and

....,Joactlim SpichaI
and GfHfl peppercoms-Jasper White

-nu.",

PASSION FRUIT
Champagne
chocolate
PassIOn frUit

IS

(Winter)
orange
papaya

coconut
kiwi fruit

a flavor that wakes you up - 0

'

5chor'ler

PASTA

basil
bean" especially ca nnelltm

butter
cheese , especially
Parmesan
chiles
cream
garlic
herbs
lobster
mascarpo ne
mush rooms
olive oil
p.m cetta

pepper, black
pesto
pign oli
potatoes
ricotta
Romano cheese
tomatoes
truffles. especially
white

(Spring)

PEA PODS
mu h r

almond
hutter
chicken

lOS

nu

steam
tiT-fry

I:

(Summer)

PEACHES
almond~

c
nut
C"..ognac
C wntr 1U
cream
curmn~. red

apncot

b II
berne
blac bern
l-Iuebern
bourbon

frambOl~

brdnd~

brown u r
Calvad
caramel

Ca,

Champagne
cherne
ClOnamon
ClOnam n

d \e

b-.l! II

gm er
Grand 1amler
ha:e1nut
honey

Kirsch
lemon
lime
Madeira
maple 'yTUp
Marsala
Melha auce

oranges
pecan
plums
port
praline
raspberrie
rum

herry
sour cream
strawberries
sugar
vanilla
WlOe, e pectally
Burgundy

poach
raw

pEAS
leeks
lemon
lettuce
mint
mushrooms
nutmeg
onions, especially tiny
parsley
prosciutto
rice
risotto

Jln10nJs
,I

rtl.:h<,kes

bacon
bLltter

carr<)ts
chervil
chl\"es
crearn

fennel
garlic

harn

(Spring)
rosemary
sage
salt pork
savory
shallots
sugar
vinegar

boil
puree
steam

PECANS
bourbon
hown sugar
butterscotch

caramel

molasses

chocolate
com syrup

oranges
rum

Pecan ce Cream with Hot Caramel Sauce-Patr cK 0 Conne"

p.ca Tart

W th

Caramel Sauce and Van I a Ice Cream- I MMy SchmIdt

Putt Pastry w 1/1 Chaco ate Sa ce a d Sabayol'}

ba.:,ll

meat, e peCI lly chIcken,1 mb nd ve 1

Chl1

olive oil
11I0n

conander

nee
tomatoe
vme r

em

_ rlt
tern

0 S
clall, pe r
u

tamel
ctnnam n

gr pefrult
h ne)

IC
Kirsch
nUlm

ru

J
r

bake

brot!

gnU
par-bot!
roast

stew

(Fall)

PERSI
brand,
rO~n

h Tower

(Summer-Fall)

PEPPERS, BELL
ancho\'ie~

eM

weet potatoes or yams

vanilla
yams

freeze
puree
raw
~

neXIpate

PERSIMMONS (continued)
P rs mmon Puddmg wtfh Coffee nd CarcJm , Sa ce
Warm Pers mmon Pudding wIth Creme Chant"ly- l d

Y ~h,,,,,..

PHEASANTS
apples
bacon
Hackberrieo;
hranJy
cabbage
thad
che tout
Lhl )r)
chi!
Cider
cream

creme fraiche

(Fall)
~auerkraut

Juniper t>crne,
kmnn

,au",,,c
"haHnts
,nur (. re,l[n
tuffing

~!aJeir.1
~1.lr,ala

mu, hrooms
olive
.
onion
orange
t r
0
pn.an
pepper
ph 1 IIH itHr

tdn~('nne

thyme
tTUffle~
VlnL'g~lr

""lln\lb
whlskc\
,nne

mIte

endl\

~rt

hrtll

brOil
rc~t

GrpPl'lC;

PIGS EARS
tt

rd

PIGS' FEET
bearnai~e

"auce
bread crumbs
Labb.1[!c
caper!>
<'ariIc
hollandaise 'auce
mayonnal'e

mustard
onions
pepper
sauerkraut
tartar sauce
thyme
tomato sauce

vinaigrette
Vl?egar, especially wine
wine, white

braise
broil
stew

PIKE

(Fall-Winter)
hollandaise sauce
sorrel

bacon
crayfi5h
cream

tomatoes
vmegar

(Winter)

PINEAPPLE
papayas
raspberries
rum
strawberries
'iugar
vanilla

liqueur, especiallv
Cognac, Cointreau,
Grand Mamler, and
Kir!>ch
lime
mang
mel n
mmt
orang

apncots
avocados
b3con
banana
brandy
coconut
cucumber
!!rapefrUl 15
ha:e1nu

A W flter compote made With s/Jces of pIneapple kiWI frUIt mango and
papaya W th a I ttle passion fruit flesh and 8 few of Its dark seeds for contrast needs only a qrat ng of I me peel and a sprmklmg of rum or Kirsch.
jOSI~"

Wa m P eapp e Tart TaM

th Coconut Ice Cream-Pat' c 0 Con ell

Car bbe n Coconut Wafer f, ed W th Fresh Pmeapple and Pma Colada

Sa ce- ~ ,n-,," P yard
3PP . Sh -rbet Bombe With Ktrsch Mousse- ~dsey S'lere

PLANTAINS
he n
(t,biak

tter
Inn m n

nu,

and \\alnu
pmeapple
rum
Uf

Cldlh almond

cr

deep-fT)'
sauce
szmmer
(e munued on niXI patt)

PLANTAINS

(contin ued)

Plantanos con erema. Sweet Frted Plantains with Homemade Sour Cream
and Fresh Cheese-Rick Bayless
Black Bean DIp with Frted Sweet Plantams-Ct' ris Sch'esinger

PLUMS
almonds
apricots
bananas
brandy
brown sugar
caramel
cherries
cinnamon
custard
fruits, especially citrus

(Summer)
Sauternes
vanilla
walnuts
wine, red

ginger
grapefruits
honey
lemon
Muscat
nectarines
nuts
oranges
peaches
rhubarb

poach
raw
stew

Gingersnap Ice Cream SandWiches With Plum Ice Cream-lindsey S"ere

Plum Sherbet Bombe wdh Grand Marmer Moussf7 Ltndsey Shere
Walnut Tart of Warmed Plums With Mascarpone Souff/f7 lydia Shire

POLENTA
burrer

cheese, esp<.:ciaUy
Cheddar, goat,
Gorg n' la. Monterey

J ck, and Pannesan

Bo

pepper
tomato sauce

e carole
oarltc

mu hroom.,

of Cre my Polenta With W, d Mushroom and Goat R'

--Brad

Ogo

Rorr

Matzo Po nta wdh Sauteed Mu<;hrooms-

POMEGRANATES
bananas
blood orange
F, r

Of

rt

(Fall)
grapefruit

chocolate
cream che

yogurt

fr, m I

d th IU
C

It

pom
/(

POMPANO
ba,il
head crumbs
coconut

(Winter)

lemon
lime
mustard

shrimp
bake (in paper)
Saute

PORCINIS
butter
garlic
Marsala
Muscatel wine

(Summer)
olive oil
parsley
sage
sherry

thyme
truffles, white
grill

The combmatlOn of porcml and garlic is a perfect combination-when it s

done perfectly. That's when the garftc IS not overpowering the mushroom,
af1d the mushroom IS well caramelized and meaty at the same time, and the
garlic IS bringmg up all the flavor so that it's not Just plain and bland
-Darle: Boulud

(Fall)

PORK
apples
apricots
bay leave
beans, black
beer
brandy
cabbage
Calvados
cherries, dried sour
clams
Cognac
conander
cream
cumin

fennel
fruit
garlic

gmger
hoisin sauce
honey
juniper berrie
lemon
lime
Marsala
molasses
mu ' tarJ
Onlon
orange
parsley
pepper, black
pineapple
plum sauce, Chine,e
plums

qUInces
rosemary
sage
sauerkraut
soy sauce
qar anise
tarragon
thyme
.
vmegar
walnuts
whiskey
wine, white

brme
grill
TOast

prune~

POr/( and apples IS a claSSIC combmatlon that has been served together for
hundreds of years. Apples cut the fattmess of pork -L.ndsey Shere

Tacos a Pastor' Red-Chlle-Mannated Pork, Wood-Grilled. Thm-Sllced and

served With Charcoaled Pineapple, Guacamole, and Black Beans
R Bay

15

PORK (continued)
Grillea Pork Tenderlom with Mustard. Sage, and Rosemary Joy

E' (;011

Pork Tenderlom with Black-Eyed Peas, Braised Onions. and Tomaill/{) S II

Jererrlah Tower

(Fall)

PORK CHOPS
apples
bay leaves
beer
bread crumbs
cabbage
cream
curry
fennel
garlic
ginger
juniper bernes

leeks
mint
mustard
onions
oranges
parsley
pepper, black
rosemary
sauerkraut
sour cream
soy sauce

thyme
tomato sauce

bake
braise
broil
grill

pan-fry
saute

Gnlled Double-Cut Pork Chop With Braised Cabbage, BOiled Potatoes, 3nd
Stone-Ground Mustard A,ol~ -Sr :J ay OQdtl..,
Pork Lo n Chop Gn ed w 1/1 Gateau of Apple and Cardmeltzed Red On.o!'}
with Rosemary Cider Sauce- J rr'1l S Il tit
Doub/e- ThIck Pork R b Chop \ Ith 5 ge and Applf. S Witi') ROJsted 5.\1[,(_'
Potatoes--" p W t

(Fall-Winter)

POTATOES

anchuvle
bacon
basil
butter
cavaar
cayenne
celery root
cepes

c.hard

hor er,hlhh

chee~e

Juniper berric

(especi Ily
Cheddar, ~) t,
Gru~ere, and
Parme an)
chen II
chlcorv
chive
cream

creme fra/me
dill
duxelle
fennel
fenugreek
garlic
ham

kale
leeks
lemon thyme
lovage
mint
mu hrooms
mustard
nutmeg
olive oil
olive
omons
papnka

panIey

(Fall)
PUMPKIN
apples
bacon
bourbon
brown sugar
butter
caramel
cinnamon
cloves
coconut
Cognac
cream
duck, including confit
garlic
ginger

Gruyere cheese
honey
leeks
mace
maple syrup
mint
molasses
mushrooms
nutmeg
nuts
olive oil
.
onlOns
pecans
pepper, black

pumpkin seeds
rum
sage
sherry
sour cream
sugar
thyme
vanilla
vinegar, especially
white wine
walnuts
yogurt

bake

pumpkin and potato-FINed Free-Form Lasagna With BJacK-Of,v(> Butter

-George GerMor & Jor-anne K sen

Pumpkm fce Cream w.th Caramel Pecan Sauce--v "1rry Sc'nl:1I

(Fall)
QUAIL

leek..-

anchOVies
appJe _
bacon

lemon

lime
m, pie yrup
mala< e
mushroom

ba~11

bay lea\'e,

beets

mu~tard

chiles, red
cider
Co~nac

cranberrie
currants, peel 11y bl ck
curry
fig
foie gras
arlic
gm
glnger

!!rape-

honey

omon
orange
pancetta
par ley
pear

pecans
pepper
per tmmon
pignoli
pmeappl
port wme
POt, toe

Jumper berrie

o
G

"",

fYI

dBBOO

~ "I t

Ora

prunes
qU;lil egg"
4uml li\'cr
4l1m~es

risotto
,age
salt
calhan

hllllor,
thyme
truffle, pceJally white
waterere
wine, white
Worce ter hire auee

broil
fry
gnU
roast

CIM.Ii.and Brandied Raspberry Ice Cream Bombe-Undaey Shere

",."iIIfJ

,.rpbI'"Y Gratin-Jeremlah Tower

a:=~goes

with a lot of dIfferent kmds of frUIt I lIke It WIth pear, and

IcB cream with chocolate

;,;

_~ER

-bIIil

blY ieaftI re
tpdcbirIJulUr

CJV"

cderY
ciJr"O

~
CIIIlf, -.pee 'ally ted

,.'e ......

dill

...
1

1M 'f

IS ntce.-Llndsey Shere

lemon
lime
mustard
olives. black
onions
oranges
parsley
pepper. black
peppers. especially

tarragon

thyme
tomatoes
vinegar, especially sherry
vinaigrette
wine, especially white

sauce
Pa".esan cheese

baJce
braise
broil
grill
pooch

ro&emary

roast

saftiOh

SDJItl

gJeen

potatoes
romeKO

pc Irr

shallots

SWIm

lealboOl
.-. me

aUld RIId Snepper willi Garlic and Gmgef-Susan a Foo

Red Snapp and yeIIowfjn Tuna with Tart Herbal
Aken

(Spriag)

RICE WHITE
custard
garlic
ginger
lemon
mushrooms
nutmeg
nuts, especially
almonds, walnuts,
pecans, and pistachios

almonds
basil
brown sugar
cardamom
chernes, dried
cinnamon
coconut
cream
curry

oranges
parsley
pignoli
pineapples
raisins
saffron
tomatoes
vanilla
yogurt

Warm Rice pudding With Coconut Cream Sauce-Susaf1'1a Foo

Cumed Rice Salad-Joyce Goldstein
Caramel Rice

Fla~Narcy S.'verton

RICE, WILD
almonds
butter

mushrooms
oranges

pepper
pign oli

raham cr cker
lemon
nmme n
nu

,;lIt

ha:elnut~

RlcenA CHEESE
almonds

chocolate
cmnamon

cl

tVt:""

crt:.lm che e

pepper

garlic

pignolt

Rlsene
artichokes
asparagu
c rab
mushroom

Parmesan cheese
peas
affron
hallo

spinach
sugar
van illa

shellfish
truffles
veal
wine

h nk a great flSOttO IS a dish to be savored It should be about eight bites of

I tbU/O flavor. where you almost hate to take that last bite-and any more
US
~~an that would be gross.-Lydla Shire
Risotto of LobSter. Mussels. and Clams with Sweet Pimientos. Scallions. and
saffron-Daniel Boulud

Risotto of Black Truffle and Fall Vegetables. with Parmigiano-Reggiano

-Gary DankO

Risotto With Butternut Squash. Greens and Prosciutto-Joyce Goldstein

Fricassee of Mushrooms and a Parsley Risotto-Gray Kunz
Risotto With Mussels and Fresh Herbs-Mark Peel & Nancy Silverton
Risotto with Fresh Bay Leaves. Peas. and Pea Shoots-Alice Waters

ROMAINE
anchovies
cheese. especially
Parmesan and blue
(Gorgonzola and

chives
garlic

olive oil
pepper, black

lemon

Roquefort)
Ensalada Frontera: Hearts of Romaine With Wood-Grilled Onions. Radishes.
Fresh Cheese. and Roasted Garlic Dressing-Rick Bayless
Moroccan Orange, Romaine. Walnut. and Watercress Salad--Joyce Goldstem
Hearts of Romaine with

Creamy Garlic Dressmg and Oven-Roasted

TomatoeS-Patnck O'Connell
Young Romame with Green Goddess Dressing and Garlic Croutons

-NICe Waters

(Winter)

RUTABEGAS
Natter

....

penley
pepper. black
sage

I""

IQUrcream

... el

thyme

boice
boil

~fry

pwU
TOtISt

(Spring- Summer)

SALMON
crab
cream

creme Jrafche
cucumber
cumin
curry
dill
fennel
five-spice powder
garlic
ginger
hollandaise sauce
horseradish
juniper berries
leeks
lemon
lime

a'ioli
anchovies
aquavit
artichokes
avocados
bacon
basil
beans, fermented black
beamaise sauce

beurre blanc

~1adeira

bordelaise sauce
bread crumbs
capers
caVIar
Champagne
chervil
chives
citrus
clams
Cognac
conamler
com

maple syrup
.
mayonnaIse
mint
moU'"dine sauce
mushrooms
mustard

ollv bll k
par,ley
pepper. black
pepper
pomegran te
rat 10

salmon caviar
sesame
shallots
shnmp
snow peas
sorrel
spinach
tarragon
tomato
truffles
vermouth
vinaigrette
vinegar, espeCially
white wme
walnuts
watercress
wme
Worcestershire sauce
zucchini

bake in parchment
braise
broil
grill
pan-fry
pan-roast
poach
saute
sear
steam

Sa'mon IS such a fatty flavorful fish It can handle a bIg flavor. I do It In a

horseradish crust And ae d goes we" w th It to cut the flchness of the fish
like some k nd of c trus - ~err. -0 Sen

I love to cook a whole salmon on tne gr 1/ and then cover It completely from
head to foo w th about one Inch of dill and then finish II eJther on the gr or
m the oven thiS way w th some lemon sltces and cracked pepper and 0 /Ve
a I It s I ke cook'ng It In a forest of dill The inside IS Veil' well (,avored dnd
mOIst -Dan e Sou ud
Salmon en Mo e Verde Farm-Ra sed AtlantiC Salmon With Class c Green
Pumpkin-Seed Mole Roasted Potatoes and MeXican Vegetables
-A CI\ Save

Tournedos of Salmon With Horseradish Crust. Cucumbers and Salmon

Caviar T"'rr 'n Sr rman

168

, ... AIIIM'IOC Sa mon Baked In a Tender Corn Pancake Topped with Golden
watelCt8SS Sauce-Hubert Keller

IIIII~&I~IG Atlantic Salmon with Horseradish-Black Pepper Sauce, Oyster

III1d Sesame Asparagus-Mark Miller

WII)'S Home-Smoked, Pastrami-Cured, Cilantro-Gravlax,

..... 1JItd PoIChed-Patrick O'Connell

".,.,.,. 2 Md &lImOn with Braised Lentil Salad and Red Wine Vinaigrette

.....,.Ogden

:,t

_Seared Salmon Fillet with Grain Mustard,

Braised Asparagus, and

Md CI sa"'" Potatoe9-Charhe Palmer

p& n "., IIIM-Cuted Salmon, Cucumbers, Lemon, and Cream

....,._ AaIDllz.alg

tMIIOI' Pi I. with Smoked Salmon and Caviar-Jimmy Schmidt

au. J2d S toon and Watercress Omelet-Jimmy Schmidt
SsP non wIIh Roasted Beets, Leeks, and Horseradish-Jeremiah Tower

dill
eggs

gmger. pickled
.. apefruit

horseradish
leeks

melon
plums

pepper. black
potatoes

radishes

Ierocm

lemon

(WInter)

rom..,ee

'se S uSc1ge Salad Served m Red Oman Cups

'l.. M. 'Y c..je Mill k ~n
p '.l- ~d Saul', qt's and Grapes -George Ge"mon & Johanne Killeen
H'I71.;;rr. de Sausages wIth Gram Mustard, FIve-Onion Slaw, and Stewed

W/l :~' Bean&- M ,rK Miller

Ou HO('1CJ71.1de Boudi" Blanc (WhIte Sausage) with Sauerkraut BraIsed in
v,rq:n a Rieslrng on Apple Coulls-Palr'ck O'Connell

curn

Lamb Sausage wIth Compote and Pecan Pancakes-Jimmy Schmidt

ed
Duck Sausage wIth Prunes-Nor mar Var Aken
L,,'bste r Sausage with Savoy Cabbage-Jasper White

(Spring-Fall)

SCALLOPS
almonds
anise
asparagus
avocados
bacon
basil
bay leaves
brandy
bread crumbs
butter, especially brown
cabbage
cabbage, napa
capers
carrots
caviar
cayenne
celery
cheese, e pecially
Gruyere or Parmesan
chervil
chives
cilantro
coriander
crab
cream
cucumbers
curry

dill

endive
fennel
foie gras
garlic
gm
gmger
hollandaise sauce
Jerusalem artichoke
leeks
lemon
lemongrass
lemon thyme
lime
marJoram
mint
Momay ~auce
mushrooms
mu~tarJ

olive oil

pumpkin
rosemary
saffron
salsa
salt
shallots
sorrel
soy sauce
spinach
Taba<;co sauce
tarragon
thyme
tomatoes
truffles
vantlla
\'crmouth
vinaigrette
vineg~r, especially cider
wine, white

OOions

oranges
paprika
parsley
pepper, black
peppers, red and hot
Pemod
porcinis
potatoe

broil
deep-fry

grIll
marinate

poach
sauce
steam
( c.)f1!irwd on next page)

SHRIMP
allspice
anchon es
artichokes
bacon
basil
bay leaves
beans, white
beer
brandy
butter
buttermilk
carro ts
can ar
ch ern l
chiles
chl \'es
cocktatl sauce
coconut
Cognac
com
cream
cucumrer"
currv. e'recl~lh reJ

dill
eggplant
garlic
ginger
lemon
lemongrass
lime
Madeira
mangoes
mayo nnaise
mint
mushroom,
mustard
oli\'e oil
onions, especially red
oranges
parsley
peanuts
perrer. ~lack
Pernod
ptnt.'J rr ie
I OmC!!rdn.ltt."
n ce

rosemary
saffron
Sauternes
scallions
shallots
soy sauce
Tahasco sauce
tarragon
thyme
tomatoes
vinaigrette
vodka
wine, e,pecially flee or
white
Worcestershire sauce

boil
broil
deep-fry

gnll
pan-fry
poach
rempura-fry

Fresh Flonda Pink Shnmp In Red Chile Escabeche With Gnlled Red Omons
Peas and Garfcky Wh te R ce- ~ Baye
Sauteed Rock Sh Imp W th Toasted Ancho Chiles SlJvered Garlic and LIme
seNed With Seared Greens and R ce.- Su an Fe ger & Mary Sue M ke
Conander-Crusted Gn f ed Shnmp With Pineapple Salsa and Lime

-Cr's Sc e

Shnmp Dusted w th Orange Zest Artichoke and BaSil

-Jean Georg

Vonne>r

Saffron Nood es w th Ma ne Shr mp Country Bacon and Pine Nuts

-Jaspe

SKATE
31

It

ma~

1-utrer. mcludmg 1-r( \\n

caper
c nander
garih.;

h :dnut
II oj lse

nnalS('

mmt
011\ e 011
parsley
pepper
th~me

ce

truffl

vinegar. e peclally red

wine
wme. e peclally whit

poach
r )Q.St
ream

SNAILS
,1I1 Ch,)\"C'
antS~

raCll11
basil
b,,\' leaH'"
bread crumbs
butter
chcrnl
crc,lIn

fennel
garlic
lemon
mushrooms
nutmeg
parsley
pepper, black
pignoli
rosemary

salt
shallots
thyme
wine, white

olive oil

vinegar, balsamic

gmger
mustard

roast
saute

mmt
moreL
mushrooms
mussels
mustard
nutmeg
ohve oil
omons
orange,
oyster,
papnka
Parmesan cheese
parsley
pepper, black
peppers
port wille
salt
scallions

shallots
shnmp
Taha,co sauce
thyme
tomatoes
truffles
\'inalgrette
Y1negar
wine. especially white

bake
braise

broil
sImmer

SNAP PEAS
butter

SNAPPER
bread crumhs
endive

SOLE
almond,
anchones
bearnaise sauce
bechamel sauce
butter
capers
carrOb
cayenne
Champagne
chives
COriander leaves
cream
garlic
hullandai,e .,auce
leeks
lemon
loh,rer
}.1ar,ala

braIse
brtJil

fry
grilt
poach
saute
steam

Corrpos/og

175

SOLE, DOVER (See also SO

basil
mustard

vermouth
wine, especially red

(Spring)

SORRFL
butter
celery root
chard
chervil
cream

creme Jrafche
eggs

grill

fish
lentils
mustard
olive oil
pepper, black
potatoes
salt

spinach
sugar
tarragon

blanch
puree
saute

SOUFFLES, SWEET
frUit. , erecially apples,
arricot~. blueberrie"
peacht:" pears,
pme pple. 411Il1ce"
r pbem ,,111 ...1
tr.m berne

Madeira, Marsala,

r ort
vanilla

hazelnut
Itqueu e peclall\
lot ctte, Comtrt:.lu.

chocollt
cofke

Cura I ,Gr 10 I
M mlcr, Klr c.h,

SPAETZLE
butter

pCpptT. blclck

poppy ceds

plum mee
ro el11drv
sauerkraut

bake

SPARERIBS
barbecue au e
garlte
gm Jer
h ocy
1m 0
(x'Pper

!'"oe, nee
.. megar

b(lrbe ue
bOIl
brOIl
par-bod

SPINACH
anchovies
bacon
brains
butter
cardamom
carrotS
cheese, especially feta,
goat, Parmesan, and
ncot ta
chtles
chives
cream
cumin
curry
eggs
fish
garlic

(Fall- Spring)
gmger
ham
hollandaise sauce
horseradish
leeks
lemon
lemongrass
mint
mushrooms
mustard
nutmeg
nuts (especially
almonds and walnuts)
olive oil
olives
Onions
oranges

pepper, black
peppers, especially red
raisins
sorrel
sour cream
soy
sugar
tarragon
tomatoes
vinegar, especially red
wine
yogurt

boil
puree
saute

The thought of spmach IS pleasure. French cooks, Chinese cooks, Italian

cooks. Indian cooks would all rate spmach the best of leaf vegetables
-..;are Gngson

SQUAB
apricots
bacon
basil
beer
brandy
butter
cabbage
cherne~

che-muts
chives
chocolate
cider
Cognac
cranbernes
crl'am
Cumm
currants
eggplant

fig

[oie gras
garlic
grapes
huckleherries
juniper berries
lemon
!tme
mu hroom.,
olive 011
olives
.
omons
orange,
paprika
parsley
peaches
peas
pepper, hlack
raspr.ernes
rhuharh

(Fall)

nce
rosemary
sage
shallots
sour cream
50\'

-luffing
tarragon
thyme
\'inegar
truft1es
wine, especially red
braIse

broil
grill
roast

..
w

sherry
thyme

truffles, white
vanilla

bake
puree

(Summer)

SQUASH BLOSSOMS
butter
cheese, especially goat
forcemeats

garlic
olive oil

bake
deep-fry
saute

(Winter)

SQUID
anchovies
basil
bay leaves
bread crumbs
cilantro
garlic
ginger
lemon
lime

mayonnaIse
mint
olive oil
onions
parsley
rosemary
salsa
squid ink
tomatoes

vinaigrette
wine, especially white

bake
cook briefly
fry
braise slowly
grit!
saute

SqUid Salad with Five-Flavor Vmaigretfe-SJsanna Fcc

Marinated Tomatoes and Arugula with Fned Squid-Jasper White

STEAK
chives
Cognac
conander
garlic
gmger
horseradIsh
Juniper berries
leeks
lemon
~1adeira

avocados
ba~ll

bearnaise sauce
bordeLu e sauce
bourbon
brandy
!:-uner WIth anchovle ,
chlv ,garltc, parsley,
t rragon
c.a enne

mushrooms
mustard
olive oil
union,
parslev
pepper, black
peppe ,~p dally green
pI::alOla auce
potatoe
rosemary

scallions
shallots
sherry
sour cream
soy
Stilton cheese
tomatoes
truffles
vmegar, espeCIally balsamic and red wme
wine, red or ""h ite
""hiskey
Worcestershire sauce

broil

gnll
pan-brOIl
pan-fry
(~

on next page)

179

STEAK (continued)
Carne Asada; Charcoal-Grilled. Butterflied Coleman Natura l Rib Eye

Marinated in Red Chile, with Black Beans and Fried Plantains with Sour
Cream and Guacamole-Rick Bayless
Grilled Hanger Steak with Roasted Bone Marrow, Fondant of Winter
Vegetables. and Crisp Shallots-Terrance Brennan
Charcoaled Filet Mignon with Roasted Shallot and Pinot Noir, Country
Potato, FOie Gras-Stuffed Morels . and Crisp Parsnip-Charl ie Palmer
Grilled Adobo-Rubbed SirlOin Steak with Pickled Corn Relish, Tamarind
Ketchup. and "Damn Good Fries"-Chris Schlesinger
Hot Roquefort-Broiled Rib Steak with Chilled Layered Tomato Salad and
Beet Fries-Lydia Shire
Grilled Rib Steak with Yellow Finn Potatoes Mushrooms, and Green
Peppercorn Butter--Jeremlah Tower

(Spring)

STRAWBERRIES
coconut
Cognac
Cointreau

cream
cream chcc,e

creme {miehe

oranges
passion fruit
peaches
pepper, black or pink

pineapple

Cura<;ao

port
raspberries

currant, blclck

rhubarb

flu

sambuca

a]mond~

Gran I Mamier

sherry

arrtCOb

grapefrUit
guav,l'

sour cream
sugar
vanilla
vinegar, balsamic

bananas

ha II

Kirsch
kiWI fruIT
lemon
hme
maple yrup
mascarpone
nut,

brown u!!ar

caramel
Cas'l~

Champagne
cmnam n
clotted crc.lm

VIOlets
wme, espeCially red (e.g.
Beaujolais and claret)

yogurt
zabaione

Stra.vberry Shortcake With Cre"11e Ct-rantilly-Lindsey Shere

Strawbemes In BeaUjolaiS Sauce--!l.3ncy S verton
Sauteed Rhubarb With Strawbemes and Vamlla Syrup
",lr G o'ge Vonger chter

STUFFING
apples
bacon
Bra:il nuts
bread crumbs
carrots
celery
chestnuts
cornbread crumbs
garlic
liquor, especially bourbon, Cognac, whiskey

liver
mushrooms
nutmeg
Onions
oysters
pancetta
parsley
pecans
prunes
rice
rosemary

sage
sausages
savory
shallots
tarragon
thyme
walnuts

braise
grill

saute

STURGEON
mayonnaise
oysters

(Spring)

SUCKLING PIG
garlic
myrtle

onions
rosemary

TOast

(Winter)

SWEET POTATOES
apples
apricots
bacon
bananas
brown sugar
butter
ctlamro
cinnamon
clove,
cocnnut
cream
garltc
gmger
honey

lemon
lime
maple syrup
nutmeg
oranges
paprika
pear,
pecans
pepper, black
pineapple
rabm,
rum
salt
"herry, dry

s()ur cream
suntlower seeJ,
thyme
vanilla
walnuts

bake
boil
deep-fry
puree
roast

SaHte

SWEETBREADS
app les
bacon
brand y
bread crumbs
butter. espeCIally brown
capers
carrots
cherries
chen' il
citrus
ckwe
com, pureed
cream

creme frafche
curry
eggs

garlic
h a:elnuts
h ollanda ise sauce
lemon
Madeira
Marsala
morels
mushrooms
mustard
onions. especially red
oysters
Parmesan cheese
parsley
peas
peppers. red
port

savory
sh allots
sh erry
spinach
tarragon
th yme
tomatoes
truffles
walnut oil
watercres,
wine, white

braise

broil
poach
saute

"Jump In the Mouth" Sweetbreads Sauteed with Fresh Fig and Summer
Savory-Lydia ShIre
Sweetbread Club Sandwich wIth Apple-Smoked Bacon. Fate Gras and a
Good Sauce--Joach m Sphcha
Sweetbread and Potato Salad In a Shallot and Hazelnut Dressing
-Jean Georges Vonge< c tel'

(Summer)

SWISS CHARD

chtle-

!trnon

!! 1flle

t,lrr..l,J

tomatoes
\'megar

SWORDFISH

b 11
BeauJ I,ll
bet.'t JUI t.'
hutter
L<lper
Cd\ tar

ch,mterelles
chi\'
c onul
cOriander
cream

'82

CUrT)
gmger
'r lptJrUlt
kmon
mu,rard
oh\'\: t!

pdr,ley
pme Ipple
ro cmal)
tarragon
roma[Oc

\' inalort'tte
\'inef.!.lr. hakHniL
wine. e'r~ci 'llly \\ hit ...
~

bake
&rod
grill
wast,
,aute

Co d Sword~sh Salad with Basil-Danlel Boulud

Gn eo Sv.ordflsh with Scallion Vmalgrette----SuSiln Feniger

& Mary Sue Milliken

Sauteed Swordfish and Osetra Caviar Cake with Caviar Sauce

-Jear LOUIS Pillladr'l

Grilled Swordfish with Tomato and Roast Pepper Compote----Michael Romano

Swordfish with Gmger and Grapefruit-Jimmy Schmidt
Grilled Swordfish with Rosemary Mayonnaise----Jeremiah Tower
Roasted Swordfish with Herbs. Smoked Bacon. and Red Wine Butter
-Norrrar Van Aken

Grilled Swordfish with Basil Butter and Tomato Sauce----Jasper White

(Summer)

TOMATOES
anchovies
arugula
basil
hread crumbs
Champagne
cheese, especially Feta,
goat, Mozzarella, and
Parmesan
chiles
chives
cucumbers
eggs
garlic
lemon
lovage

marJoram
mint
mushrooms
olive oil
olives
omons
oregano
parsley
pasta
pepper, black
peppers, especially red
saffron
salt
seafood
shallots

sugar
tarragon
thyme
vinegar, especially balsamic, sherry and
wIne

bake
broil
ir)'

grill
rau.'

sallte
stew

Summer Crostini With Native Tomatoes, LIttle Compton Corn. Red Onion,
and Basll--George German & Johanne Killeen
Vine-Ripened Tomato Salad With Mozzarella and Roasted Sweet Onions
-Bradiey Ogde'l

SpICY Cold Tomato and Pepper Soup Barcelona-Style-Allce Waters

Compcs,ng

183

TI"

ClE
thyme
tomatoes
vinegar, espec ially reJ
wme

mushrooms
mustard
olive oil
parsley
pepper, black
port
rosemary
tarragon

anchovies
capers
cherries
chervil
chives
garlic
horseradish
lemon

bake
boil

TRIPE
mustard
nutmeg
.
onlOns
pancetta
paprika
Parmesan cheese
parsley
pepper, black
prunes
saffron
Sauternes
th, me
tomatoes

allspice
bacon
brandy
bread crumbs
Calvados
chickpeas
cider
cloves
cumm
garlic
lemon
marjoram
mushroom,

truffles
vinaigrette
vinegar, especially red
wme
wine
Worcestershire sauce

braise
fry
poach
saute
stmmer

TROUT
garlic
horseraJ ish
lemon
mushroom"
parsley
pears
pepper, hlack
PernoJ
purt
scallions
'iorrel
Tabasco sauce
tomatoes

almonds
anchnvles
hacon
beans, especially t1a!.!eolets
butter, especially
brown
capers
cepes
cher\'il
chiles
chIves
cream

vinegar, especially wine

walnuts
wine, white

bake

brozl

gnU
poach
roast
saute
sear
steam

(c ""mud or f;u:ml'. page I

184

, y

ConIII..IIIItI
M~ wtIh

Roasted Mam. BrooIc Trout Stuffed with Wmte' Greens, Tomato

Country-Cured Bacon, WIth Fmgerlm9 Potatoes and Wild

Ssg6 Daniel Boulud

Saut86d Trout Stuffed WIth GarlIC, Chile, and Toasted
Tomato Relish-Chns SchleSinger

TROUT, SMOKED
bacon

cream

horseradish
lemon

pecsns with (3ardfIn

olive oil
IIOU1' c:re8ID

House-Smoked Trout WIth Apple-Chive Fritters and HorseradiSh CtMIfJ

-Bradley Ogden
GrapefrUIt and Smoked Trout with

Pickled Ontons and pepper CteIItI

-Alice Waters

TRUFFLES (See also BLACK and WHITE)

CopI8C

ri..
Pa" nc:hl-

C,'IID

iP

chickrn

"a-,"I'.,..e
u

Gary Dan (
THE DIN ING ROOM AT THE RITZ-CARLTON HOT EL
San FranCISco, Calrforma

We've had three or four promotions a year where we've developed special
menus-around caviar, cheese, or truffles, for example-in order to increase
our business. Each would be kicked off with a press luncheon abo ut three
weeks before the menu debuted. For example, we'd serve truffle hors d'oeuvres, bring in an expert on truffles from France to provide a slide or video
show and talk about truffles, and then bring the journalists into the kitchen
where they could watch the preparation of the special menu and ask questions.
With a menu like this, you want to have the truffle speak-not anything else! I started backwards, with a truffle dessert and a truffled cheese
course. Since these were both heavy on the cream, I aimed for lighter preparations of the other cour e .

Truffle Menu

Trujj1e Suup
La Gitana, Manzanilla

Seared Scallops u ith Spnng Veot!tables and Truff1es

DOTTUline 0 tertag 1990, Pinot Blanc

Lamb Mt!dallwn5 u'ith Wild Mu hrooms and Truff1ed Lamb Essence ,

Gratin Potatoes
Tinto Pesquera 1989, RIbera del Duero

Truffled Bnllat-Sat1arin
Chateau de Trignon 1985, Rasteau

Truffle Ice Cream

(Summer)

TUNA
alolt
anchovies
artichokes
avocados
bacon
bay leaves
beans, especially black
and white
beets
capers
carrots
caViar
chives
cilantro
daikon
dill
garlic
gmger
leek

lemon
lemongrass
lime
mayonnaise
mint
mushrooms
olive oil
.
onlOns
parsley
pepper, black
peppers, especially red
bell
pineapple
potatoes
saffron
scallions
seaweed
sesame
soy sauce

tamarillos
teriyaki sauce
thyme
tomato sauce
tomatoes
vinaigrette
vinegar, especially wine
wasabi
wine, especially white

bake
braise
broil
grill

raw
TOast

saute
sear

Roasted Tuna With Black Pepper, Parsnip Puree and Shallot Confll m Port
Wine-Dar lei Bo JIi.. d
Seared Rare Ahl Tuna With Avocado and Soy-Lemon Herb Dress ng
-G2ry Da'lko

Gnl/ed Marmated Tuna With Roasted Peppers Bok Choy, ShIItake

Mushrooms Soy and Gmger-Gary D r 0
Grdled Tuna au POlV'e With Cracked Bl.lck Pepper and Lemon Buttt:lr served
With Shoestnng Potatoes and Spmach- Joyc.e Gold IF!:1
Ahl TU'1a With a Crust of Pmk and Black Peppercorns Enhanced with Lime.
Orange. and Lemon-I-' Jb"-r+ \(" er
Lernon-DI/on Tuna Tartare With Rye TOdst and Scall'on O,l. M r~ tI. S'

Filet Mlgl"'o'" of Rare Tuna Capped w,fh Duck FOle Gras on Charred Omans
and a Burgundy Butter Sauce- Pat C~ 0 Cor e
Gni/ed Tuna Steak With PI'::kled Gmger Soy. Wasab,. Liang Pan. and
Jawm.ne RIce Cakc5- Chns Sch E'S ne'
Tuna Tartare MIxed With Cucumbers OnIons. Capers and Wasabl
Vnagrette- ~I 'T'Y SC~r'1I0
Yellowftn Tuna Braised With AnchOVies Tomatoes Omons Garltc and Bay
Leaves- Aile Waters

1 7

(Spring)

VEAL

iDle gYm

.H1cht, dl'

garlic
gmger
grapefruit
ham
leeks
lemon
lime
Madeira
Marsala wine
morels
Momay sauce
mushrooms
mustard
olive oil
onions
papnka
Parma ham
parsley
pepper, black
pepper,
pistachio,

,lrr b
,lftichl1kes
,lfw.:ula
hlCl1n
basil
bay leaves
bread crumbs
butter
capers
carrots
ceres
cheese, especIally
Gnlyere and
Parmesan
cherYll
cider
c!O\'es
corn. pureed
cream
dill
endive

potatoes
rosemary
sage
salmon
shallots
sorrel
sour cream
spinach
sweetbreads
tapenade
tarragon
thyme
tomatoes
truffles, especially white
tuna
verbena
vermouth
wine, espeCIally white

braise
roast
satHe

Everyth ng goes ~ th veal LIke chicken It s a meat w.th a neutral flavor, so

you car) take It m a lot of dIfferent dlfectlons A very earthy direction would be
combm ng It g'andrrere style With bacon mushrooms potatoes, and pearl
omans, Or you car) take It ,n a bItter d rect on W th caramelIzed endive, Or
you can make the dlsn sharp by pamng the veal th capers or mustard
sauce Veals pretty bland on Its own so you need somethmg to gIve It a Mtle
b t of I fe - Te 'ane BrE.' an
Sauteed Vea Medal ons WIth Chestnuts Ce ery Root and Apples With
Potatoes F,fi-Gary Dan 0
Pan-Roasted Veal Steak ~ th Yu on Go d Potatoes Peppers and GarlIc
-Gray I<

Sand cll of Veal and Vea Sweetbreads th Oyster Mushrooms Country

Ham and 0" on-P urn Con~ ture- Pa
0 Co
Vea Meda ons
of F: esh Sage-

th W, d Mushroom Can
a
Pa e

on Tomato Conf t and Essence

Sa teed Vea Steaks w th Rum Planta ns and Creole Mustard Cream

A

VEAL CHOPS (See also VEAL)

anchovies
bacon
basil
bay leaves
bread crumbs
caper,
chervil
Cognac
garlic
ginger
lemon
Madeira
morels

Momay sauce
mushrooms
oltves
onion s
paprika
Parmesan cheese
parsley
pepper, black
peppers
potatoes
rosemary
shallots
sorrel

tarragon
thyme
to mato sauce
vinegar, espeCially raspberry and wme
watercress
wIne

braise
broil
roast
saute

Roasted Veal Chop and Sweetbreads with Rosemary. Winter Root

Vegetables. and Sweet Garlic-Oar:; Boulud
Seared Veal Chop with Parmlglano-Reggiano Spmach and Soft Polenta
-Gary Danko

Veal Chops with Shltake Mushrooms-Mark Peel

VEAL KIDNEYS (See also KIDNEYS)

bacon
bean, c pc lall\ \\ hit
brandy
hu trcr
Co!:!fl<lC

c rdnhe rne
cream
Lurry
garlic

~111

par~ley

h,tllob

JUniper berm:
lemon

wme

morel
mushroom
mustard
nurme o

hake
moil
grill

011111ll!

lute

papn k.l

(Winter)

VEAL SHANKS
cd rrOb
garlic
gn:mol,n il
honc\

lemon
onion

ro c mary

pa r~ l e}

th yme
wine, white

pepper, hLlCk

age

VEAL SWEETBREADS (See also SWEETBREADS)

d.
mushrooms
braise
brJn \
onions
broil
Cognac
saute'
tomatoes
cray f j,I1

(Fall)
VENISON
apples
bacon
bananas
barley
bav leaf
bearnalse ,auce
brandy
cherries, especially black
chestnuts
chiles, espeCially ancho
and poblano
cider
coriander seeds
cream
currants, red

garlic
goat cheese
horseradish
huckleberries
juniper berries
Madeira
marjoram
mushrooms
mustard
Onions
orange,
parsnips
pears
pepper, black
pomegran,Hc'

port
prickly pears
prunes
rosemary
sweet potatoes
tarragon
thyme
vinegar, espeCIally red
wine
wine, especially red
braIse

~ll

mast
sallte

Honey and Cumin Glazed Lom of Vemson WIth Foie Gras EndIVe, KohlrabI,
Orange Zest, and Pine Nuts--Dan el BOIJlud
Medal/Jons of Venison with Purees of Parsntp Sweet Potato and Mushrooms
-Te'rance Brennan

Cervena Venison Pepper Steak With Mushroom Spaetzle Butternut Squash

Flan, and Caramelized Parsnlp-Charles Palmer
VenIson WIth Mustards and Chlles-JlrT'my Schmidt
Roasted Racks of Venison, One of Sweetened Chestnut, the Other of Biller
Chocolate-Lydia Sh fe
(See also Charite Palmer's venison recipe on pages 192-193)

(Fall)

WALNUTS
caramel

Lepe
chee~es, especially

Roquefort and
tilton

f"h
mll hrL>Utn

pork
port
ralsm

"ddLl"
,herry
:ucdul1l

---

Mignons of Cervena Venison

Charlie Palmer
AUREOLE
N ew York , Ne w York

This recipe, 1 think, represents my style of food-complementary, big flavors;

a bit complex in its preparation in some ways, but really a concentration of
big, strong flavors. It's robust. It's solitude. It's the kind of dish that makes
you sit up and take notice. That's what I really try to do with every kind of
recipe I create.
SERVES

For the squash

3 tablespoons butter
2 shallots, peeled and minced
"2

medIum butternut squash. peeled, seeded, and cut into liZ-inch dice
3 1/2 (Ur' chIcken stock
1/2 tetl'pfHln nutmeg
1/2 tea'poon mace

Place the hutter m ,1 medium ~aure Pdn and melt over medium hear. Add the
shallot and '-lute 2 mmute~. Add the yua~h Hnd toss together. ext, add all
the remammg mgredlent'> and cook ~Iowly for ah,)Ut 12 to 15 minute" ,tlfnng occa I nail). Hold warm after almo.,t all the srock is absorbed.

For the pOl"tobellos

2 large porwJ-,e1lo mushroom caps
2 taJ-,le.,poons extra virgm olive oil
1 tahlespoon b.tbamic vinegar

---------

1 clove garlic. sliced thin

1 tablespoon salt and cracked pepper

ms with olive oil and vinegar. Top with garlic slices. season.
Brus h mus hro O
. an oven preheated to 500 0 for 7 to 8 minutes. Hold warm.
an d roast m
Fm the "enison and sauce

2 cups Beaujolais wine

2 finely minced shallots
1 herb sachet including thyme. bay leaf. peppercorns
1 1/2 cups good venison glace or veal glace
8 3-ounce mignons of Cervena venison (cut from the Denver leg).
1-1 1/4 inch thick
salt and pepper
2 tablespoons canola oil for searing
1/4 cup sun-dried currants (reconstituted in warm water)
4 tablespoons cassis for degla:ing

1. Begin by reducing the wine. shallots. and sachet to 1/2 cup of liquid. Add
the glace and reduce by 1/2 (about 20 minutes at a mediumimmer). Skim
the sauce and strain into a bowl. Reserve.
2. Season the Cervena venison with alt and pepper. In a very hot saute pan,
heat the canola oil. Place the mignons in the pan and sear for about 2 to 3
minutes or till almost crusty. Tum the mignom and sear the other Ide for an
additional 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Remove from the pan to a planer and drain
any grease. Add the cassis to the pan along with the drained currants. Finally,
add the base sauce and bring to a boil. Adjust the seasoning and hold warm.
3. Reheat the -quash and poon into the center of 4 warm dinner plates. Set
2 mignons atop each bed. Slice the warm porrobellos and lay a few pieces
over each mignon. Bring the sauce back to a boil and spoon generously
over the meat. Serve very hot.
.

__ _-_ _------- --- -----_

...

..

.. _--_ ..

_-- ...

..

1 3

(Spring)
WATERCRESS
oranges
oregano
parsley
thyme
vinaigrette

beets
chicory
eggs
endive
mustard

YAMS (See also SWEET POTATOES)

persimmons
apricots
butter

walnuts

puree
raw

(Winter)
maple

YOGURT
honey
mint
nuts, especially hazelnuts
oats
OnIons
peache,

apples
bananas
blueberries
carrots
coconut
cucumber
granola

194

radishes
raspberries
strawberries
watercress

ZUCCHINI

anchovies
basil
bread crumbs
butter
cayenne
cheese, especially Feta,
Gruyere, Parmesan,

and Ricotta
cilantro
cinnamon
cloves
cream
dill
eggplant
garlic
hazelnuts
lemon
marjoram
mint
mushrooms
olive oil
omans
oregano

(Spring- Summer)
parsley
pesto
pignoli
rosemary
sage
salmon
tarragon
thyme
tomatoes
vinegar
walnuts

bake
fry
saute

Tinga de Verduras: An Earthenware Casserole of Grilled Zucchini and

Woodland Mushrooms with Smoky Roasted Tomato Sauce, Fresh Cheese,
Avocado, and White Rice-Rick Bayless
Sauteed Zucchini with Sun-Dried Tomatoes-Susanna Faa
Baked Eggplant, Zucchini and Parmigiano Tort'no-{v1lchael Romano
Parmesan-Fned Zucchini with White Bean Hummus-Lyd a St -e

---S-E-A--::S:-::O:--:N~I::N:-:G~M;-A;:T;'Cr.:;H-';E~S:MMA D E -, N- H E A VE N
ACHIOTE
chicken
fish

meat, white
pork

rice

ALLSPICE
beef
beets
cabbage
carrots
corned beef
fruit pies
game

grains
lamb
meats
onions
pumpkin
rabbit
soups

spinach
squash
stews
sweet potatoes
tomatoes
turnips

pizza
potatoe~

puttanesca
tapenade

caulitlower
... _ert
fl h

melon
sauerkraut
seafood

ANCHOVY
Caesar salad
pissaladlere

ANISEED
heet
breads
cabbage
carrOb

BASIL
cheese, e pecially
Mozzarella and
Parme an
chicken
duck
eggplant

omon~

pa ta ~auces
peto
pimiento
pizza
pork
potatoes
rabbit
salad green ,
especially dandelion
and rocket

egg

fish
lamb
liver
olive oil

hellfish, especially crah

and shrImp
soups
sweet peppers
tomatoes
turtle soup
veal
vegetable , especially
Mt..Jiterranean
vinegars
zucchini

If I had to choose Just one plant for the whole herb garden I shou d be c
tent WIth basIl Bast! enhances almost anythmg WIth wh ch t s coo ed
-E zabel Da d
196

BAY LEAF
reans
game
grains
lentils

pates
potatoes
risotto
shellfish

soups
stews
terrines
tomatoes

BEANS, FERMENTED BLACK

fish

poultry

shellfish

omons

tomatoes

pork
potatoes
sauerkraut
sausage,

soups
turnips

lentils
meat

rIce
qUd,h
,wcerme..J{'

CAPERS
fish

CARAWAY
bread, especially rye
cabbage
cheese, especially
Muenster

CARDAMOM
chicken
coffee
currIe,
duck

pea,

CASSIA
apple,
chocolate

cou_cou,

lentil,

peas
rewed fruit

fi,h

po[,)wes

lob,ter
onions
pepper

rlU.'

CAYENNE
ch ee e JlIce~
Corn
crah
'grlJnt

~arJmc

tomatoe

CEl ERY SEEDS

eggplant
eggs
fish

peas
potatoes

stuffing,
tomatoes

fish
peas
potatoes
salads
sauces

soups
spinach
tomatoes
veal
venIson

CHERVIL
asparagus
carrots
cheese
chicken
eggs

CHILES
bananas
heans
chutney~

corn
fruit, especially CItrus
ketchup

pineapple
nce

... alad~
hdlfl h

sole
'ours

CHIVES
fl,h
p(.ratoe)

CHOCOLATE, BITTER
roultr~

rar!

game

It

CILANTRO (CORIANDER LEAVES)

avocado
chicken
fhh
Ice cream
lamb
lentils

m,,~unnal'C

pcpper
pork
nee
root vegetable
salads

aha.,
,hellfi,h
tl101at(}Cs
Yl!urt

I ve used fresh leaf conander. which IS vaguelyamsey. m fce cream

w th a fig tart It s a very mce combmatlon
d 6'f S

(;r

CINNAMON
apples

at'goiemo no
berries
chicken
chocolate

coffee
custards
fruit compotes
lamb
mulled wine

oranges
pears
rice
tea
zucchini

fruit

veal

CINNAMON BASIL
creme angl aise

I use cmnamon basil to flavor poaching liqUids for frUlf.-Llndsey Shere

CLOVES
apples
beets
game
ham

lamb

mmcemeat
pumpkin
sausage

tea

tomatoes
walnuts, candied
wine, especially mulled

COCONUT
chicken
custard

fruit
orange~

CORIANDER
curry
fish
ham

lamb
lentils
pork

~tuffing

lamb
lentib
peas
pickles
pork

potatoes
nee
-ausages
soups
tew

tomatoeturke~

CUMIN
beans
chicken
couscous
CUlT)

eggplant
fl h

mud

next

CUMIN

(continued)

Anyone who loves the food of MeXICO loves cumm which IS usually combmed with chiles and peppers in that country In Colombia and other parts 1')/
South America, you'll see cumin combined with cilantro and scallion If)
Morocco. you 'll see it with cinnamon. red peppers. and saffron. And In India
you 'lI see it combined with cardamom and coriander.
So one spice can take you to many countries, depending on what you do
with It It becomes a question of where you want to be what country you
want to be m. when you cook with that spice.-Lydia Shire

DILL
cream sauces
eggs
fish
lamb
pickles
potatoes
salmon

beets
breads
cabbage
carrots
chicken
crayfish
cucumbers

scallops
seafood
sour cream
tomatoes
veal

011115 not an herb I m crazy about. so I don't like chopped dill In a dish. But
/'1/ cook something like salmon on a bed of It. and the fragrance It Imparts IS
enough.-Dan e BOJlud

FENNEL
boUillabaz se
cabbage
chicken
cucumher
duck
eggs
figs

fish
goose

herring
lenub
pork
mackerel
olives
pork
poultry
red mullet
alami

sauerkraut
sausage
sea hass
seafood
soup
suckling pig

legumes
potatoe

rabbit

tomaroe~

veal

FENUGREEK
chicken
curries

GARUC

beets
cabbage

chicken
eggplant

fish
lamb

rice

ehelIftIh
.pnach

to'DatcM'"

zucc:hini

lentils

mushrooms
pasta

beans

beef

pork
potatoes

GINGER
caaOll

chicken

cbaco'are

fruit
giIiFlbread

ham
ice cream

melon

pumpkin
rice
tometoe'

onions

pork

Each mgredient does a different dance. Each dish das, a .~ dE __

u"iNne anglalS6 with ginger does a soft. dreamY waltz. When , .hlnk d
spicy pork stir-fry with ginger. I get an IrIJIIgB 01 a big dtInt IIoof will ,.,.. d
'~Bnts doing a real ensrgstiC danCe with the gtttIiC IIIfd chII. - Bach oIher. and suddBnIy breaking out intO their own
J..~""IkS"

m...

HorIIat van Aken

ahuji H.

LAVENDER
fruit
ice creams

lamb
rabbit

stew

fish
oysters

shellfish
veal

pork
shellfish

soups

LEMON
chicken
desserts

LEMONGRASS
chicken

fish

LEMON THYME
carrots
eggs
lamb

potato puree
rabbit
;,alad

stews
stuffings

lamb

mushrooms

haricot bean
pork
potatoe
rabbit

oups
tew
veal

ham
omons

pumplcms
ribs

LEMON VERBENA
dessert up
ice cream

LOVAGE
chicken
cream cheese
f1 h soup
green

MAPLE SYRUP
carrots
desserts

fruit

NU MEG
broccoli
cabbage
carrots
cauliflower
cheese
custards
eggs
fruits

lamb
mutton
pasta
potatoes
pumpkin
raIsIns
ricotta cheese
nce

OREGANO
artichokes
beans
chicken
eggplant
fi"h and fhh 'Oup'
lamh

mushrooms
pasta
peppers
pl::a
pork
potatoe

sausages, c'ipcClally
blood and pork
souffles
spinach
stuffings
veal

quail
rabbit
sausage
tomatoes
veal
zucchini

PAPRIKA
cauhtl \\;cr
chICken
cr. b
fish tC\\

~ ula

shellfish
strogdnoff
veal

1mb

n e

PARSLEY
chi ken
eggplam
egg
fih
game
lenni

mu hr
mu el
p ta
pe

pot a toe
poultry

In

nee
~cofooJ

snalb
romatoe
:ucchinl

PEANUTS
beef
chicken

noodle

shrimp

rc

PER, BLACK

cheese
eggs
fish
game
lamb
pfefferniiesse

pork
poultry
roast beef
salad
sausages
soup

PISTACHIOS
asparagus
chicken
ice cream

leeks
pasta

rice
sausages

pates

POMEGRANATE SYRUP
beef
duck

steaks
strawberries
tomatoes
veal

game
lamb

walnuts

fruit
noodles

nce

lamb
mushrooms
ontons
oranges
peas
pork
potatoes

poultry
salmon
spinach
steaks
veal
suckling pig

POppy SEEDS
breads
curries

ROSEMARY
beans, especially dried
and fava
chicken
fish, oily (e.g., mackerel, sardines)
game
grains

I remember makmg a rosemary and muscat wme sherbet almost twenty

years ago -lindsey Shere

ROSEWATER
cream cheese
cu tard

fruit salad
ICe

ice creams
strawberries

SAFFRON
shellfish
soup
tomatoes

bouillabaIsse
chicken
curries
fish
lamb

mussels
paella
nce
risotto
sauces

SAGE
duck
eggplant
fish
game
goose
liver

offal
peas
pork
poultry
ravioli

roasts
stuffings
tomatoes
tuna
veal

lamb
legumelentil
meat , gnlleJ

peas
poultry, grilled
rabbit
soups

fi h
halvah
lamb
noodle

shellfish
tahini

meats
poultry
shellfl h

soups
stuffings

fruit

potatoe

SAVORY
beans
chicken liver
egg
goat chee

SESAME SEEDS
bread
chicken
chickpe
eggplant

SORREL
egg

fih
lentil

SOUR CREAM
borscht
caviar

STAR ANISE
chestnutS
duck
eggs
fish

SUMAC
chicken
fish

TAMARIND
chicken
curries
fish

TARRAGON
artichokes
beamaise sauce
carrots
chicken
crustaceans, especially
lobster
eggs

leeks
pastry
pears
pork

kebabs

lamb
lentils
peaches

fish, especially salmon

lobster
meats, white
mushrooms
onions
potatoes
rabbit

THYME
beef
carrots
chicken
figs
fish

goat cheese
lamb
lentlls
onions
peas

poultry
pumpkin
scallops
shrimp

lentils

pears
poultry
nce

salads
ole
spinach
stuffings
tomatoes
veal

pork
potatoes
soups
tomatoes
venison

TURMERIC
beans
chicken
curry

lamb
lentils
meats, white

paella
nce
shellfish

20

V NILLA

apples
apricots
chocolate
custards

fish
fruit
ice cream

plums
shellfish
souffles

VINEGAR, BALSAMIC
steaks

strawberries

tomatoes

You can get tIred of balsamIc vmegar-It's one of those overused mgredlents. Many trendy restaurants use a lot more balsamIc vmegar than any
Itahan restaurant ever would.-Mark Pee'

WASABI
sashimi

sushi

--- --- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - -AROUND THE WORLD WITH FLAVORS

If you'd like to cook with flavors and ingredients inspired by a certain part of the
world, refer to this list:

AFRICAN
chiles
cumin

garlic
grains of paradise

peanuts

chorizo
com

cumtn
nce

ARGENTINIAN
beef
chiles

ARMENIAN
parsley

yogurt

AUSTRALIAN
fish
meats

shellfi h

tropical fruits and

vegetables

paprika

poppy seeds

garlic
limes

rice
scallions

AUSTRIAN
cream cheese
omons

BRAZILIAN
beans, black
chtles
cilantro

pineapple~

CAJUN
chll

eray: h

hot ~auce
eafood

romatoe

209

CANADIAN
maple

CANTONESE
pork
scallions

ginger
mushrooms
nuts

shark skin
soy sauce

CARIBBEAN
glI1ger
gua\'3S
Jerk
lime.;
mace

allspice
avocad()~

hananas
beam, e~peCially red
chile
cilantro
clI1namon
clove
coconut
curry
garlic

mangot.:~

mlI1t
nutmeg
okr.l
papa)Ol
pa ton fruit

pineapples
plantains
pork
rum
seafood
sligar
sweet potatoes
tomatoes
vanilla

CHILEAN
onion
orange
plmlent<

cllantw
crn

garit
meat

tomatoe~

nee

CHINESE

gmger

bll
bean prout
bok choV
cardamom
c la
conander
garlic

seafood

hOI

\I1

mushroom
nce
scallion
se ame
hmake

hnmp
now pea
soy auce
star ani e

tofu
vlOegar, nee wane
wine, rice

Susanna Foo on Cross-Cultural Ingredient

Substitutions/Enhancements
In Americanizing her Chinese cuisine, Susanna Faa learned to make substitutions of readily available ingredients that were in many cases of better
quality and flavor than the authentic ingredients available.
Ingredient
bamboo shoots
dried leaf cabbage
hoisin sauce
oyster sauce
peanut or sesame oil
rice vinegar

Substitution/Enhancement
artichoke hearts
sun-dried tomatoes
hoisin sauce enhanced with brandy
oyster sauce enhanced with onions
soybean or corn oil; olive oil (in salads)
balsamic vinegar (in salads and stews)
cider vinegar (in sauces)

nee wme

brandy (with rork)

gin (wIth fish)
Madeira (with red meat and game)
vermouth (wIth fbh, shellfish, ;md whIte meat)
vodka (with fi~h, "hellfi"h, ,md white meat)
whIskey (with rork)

S:eehuan peprers

t-lexlGm ancho chIles

soy sauce

Kikkoman 0\ sauce

COLOMBIAN
coconut
com

ontons
rlmiento~

CORSICAN
BrocclO cheL'Se
emu frUI

tomatoes

o\t\'cs

CREOLE
okra
pineapples
rum

alcohol
bananas
chiles

DANISH
cream
dill

butter
chives

seafood
spices
tomato

potatoes
tarragon

DUTCH
seafood

fish

EAST INDIAN
curry
mint

aromatics
coconut
coriander

saffron
turmeric

ENGLISH
bacon
chec e
cucumber

"arne
mu tan'!

dill

03

potatoes
Worcestershire sauce

EUROPEAN
caraway
cmnamon
clove
coriander
fennel

gmger
JunIper heme
mu tard
nutmeg
poppy eed

FINNISH
milk

212

mushroom

saffron
-esame
\'antlla

FRENCH
cream

apples
butter
cheese
chervil
chives

eggs
garlic
herbs
olive oil

parsley
stock
tarragon
truffles
wine

White wme, cream, and the delicate herb known as tarragon are three of the
foundations for classic French cuisine.--Craig Claiborne

GERMAN
caraway seeds

mustard

sorrel

poppy seeds

thyme
vinegar

clove
garlic
goat cheese
honey

marjoram
mint

parsley
nee

olive oil
olives
orepno

spinach
thyme

lemon

OUZO

yoeurt

dill
juniper berries

pepper

GREEK
cinnamon

tomatoes

HUNGARIAN
bacon
beets
caraway seed.

mushrooms
onions

dill

paprika
penley

IIIiIe

f Mel

.e'

...

,EM'"
pi
1 ,

s-

_,

I >

1,

INDONESIAN
cumin
curry
garlic
ginger
lemongrass
lime

basil
brown sugar
chiles
cilantro
cinnamon
coconut

mint
peanuts
nee
soy sauce
sugar

IRANIAN
almonds
aromatics

rice
saffron

yogurt

oysters
potatoes

rye

olive oil
oregano
pancetta
pasta
r emary

spinach
tomatoes
vinegar, especially red
wtne

jerk

pepper

scallions

ugar
vinegar, rice
wasabi
wine, rice

IRISH
cabbage
oats

ITALIAN
basil

cheese, e pecially rna

carpone, Mozzarella
and Panne an
garlic

JAMAICAN
all pice
gtnger

JAPANESE
garlic
gInger
nce
salce

14

sesame

shiitakes
soy sauce

peanuts

oregano
marjoram

KOREAN
brown sugar
chiles

soy sauce

sesame

LATIN AMERICAN
achiote
beans, red
chiles

potatoes
nee

corn
garlic

plantains

LEBANESE
bulgur

sesame oil

MAL YSIAN
cardamom
coconut

chiles

lemongrass

garlic
olive oil

parsley
tomatoes

com
cumm

pork
nce
scallions
tomatoes
vanilla

MEDITERRANEAN
anchovies
coriander

MEXICAN
avocados
beans
chiles
chocolate
cilantro
cmnamon

epazote
garlic
lime
peppers

21
p

n g

MIDDLE EASTERN
anise
chiles
cilantro
cinnamon
coriander
cumin
dill
eggplant
fennel

fenugreek
garlic
h oney
lemon
mint
olive oil
oregano
parsley
pignoli

pomegranates
poppy seeds
saffron
sesame
sumac
tahini
tamarind
tomato
yogurt

MOROCCAN
almonds
chickpeas
cilantro
cinnamon
coriander
couscous

cumm
eggplant
fruit
ginger
harissa
lemon, dried

mint
olives
onions
saffron
tomato

NORTH AFRICAN
conander

garlic

mint

cumm

gram of paradise

rill

fenugret:k

lemon

saffron

hernng

sour cream

el hanout

NORWEGIAN
cod
dill

almon

PAKISTANI
fruit
legume

PERUVIAN
chiles
com

nce

spices

lime

tomatoes

omons

PHILIPPINE
garlic
rice

POLISH
dill
fish
kielbasa

soy sauce

vmegar

mushrooms
potatoes

sauerkraut
sour cream

PORTUGUESE
cabbage
chiles
chorizo
cilantro

potatoes
nee

cod
eggs
garlic
olive oil

PUERTO RICAN
achiote
ginger

lime

plantains

root vegetables

tomatoes

dill
mushrooms
parsley

potatoes
sour cream

ROMANIAN
garlic

RUSSIAN
beets
cabbage
caraway seeJs

SCANDINAVIAN
butter
chives
cream

pepper
potatoes
vinegar

dill
horseradish
mushrooms

217

SCOTTISH
oats

potatoes

SINGAPOREAN
chiles
cinnamon

coconut
onions

scallion s
turmeric

chorizo
coriander
com

fruits, especially tropical

garlic
rice

gmger

red curry

gmger
lemongr
nutmeg

scallions
turmeriC

SOUTH AMERICAN
allspice
beans
chiles

SOUTH SEAS
coconut

SOUTHEAST ASIAN
chtle
curry leaes
garltc

SOUTHWESTERN UNITED STATES

chile
clove
amse
cumin
caJeta
fruit especially tropical
cinnamon
Jumper bernes

SPANISH
almonds
anchoVies

beans
capers

chtles
chocolate
cinnamon

coriander
cumin
prIic:
nuts
olive oil
olav
OOIQI05

nuts

nce
age

oranges
papnka
parsley

peppen
pork
nee

saffron

seafood

sweet peppers
tomatoes

turmeric
vanilla

SRI LANKAN
cardamom

cinnamon

SWEDISH
dill
gravlax

SWISS
bacon

cheese

SYRIAN
peppers, especially red

juniper berries

reindeer

chocolate
meats

sausages

pistachios

pomegranates

ginger

peanuts

pignoli

SZECHUAN
chiles
fathlaUCC

leeb

Szechuan pepper

prlic

mint

peanua

....

pewer

,.,.,ind
umeric:

a single song but rflther the

entire concert. Still, a menu IS
more than merely a hst of <.il hes.
At its best, it communicate a
chef's personality and point of
view, and offers a significant
opportunity for artistic expres_
sion. The writing of a menu can
be approached as poetry or literature, with the aim of ChOOsing
words that impart meaning to
.
f the dish or heighten diners'
expectation of it, or amuse
the expenence
0 ,
. '
. h h morous or clever twist on looking at It. A menu should eXcite
t h em Wit a u
the palate, starting with the very words chosen to describe the dishes. A
menu can tell a story, just as a theater or opera performance can, such as the
story of an ingredient, a region of the world, or a tlme In history. The phYSIcal menu itself should also be aesthetically pleaSing. Menus in history, In fact,
have sen'ed as showcase_ for the artistic talent of the likes of Manet and
Picasso.
However, the art f camp ing a menu i~ too often overiookeJ. For
example, the food media frequently place mllch more emphasis on the recipe
for and pre entation 01 a Ingl I h th n on It, rldce In the pruce '~Ion of a
menu that
tll!!h It. And con umen 111 hd re ulre I m "h.lw-it-your-way"
expectatlon on the p rt of r taur nt dmer who now count on ha\'lOg the
freed m to rder \\hat vcr the} "ant whenever the\' want it Unf rtunatelh
diner - ha\e thereb robbed (hem elve 01' th expeneme of culinary .utl t '
full expre Ion of their ( lent through the coml ed mcnu which ilrc the
be t exem la of (hclr cUlm. Chez Pam e 1 alone among leadmg rbtaurants In It pollq of offenn o a 10 Ie menu-"lth lit cholces--tO alii JlIIer, ahhou h other n: taurant m
ffer chef' t rmg menu that I determmed at the ch f' JI retlon,
The pnnclpl
com 10 ' a menu tern from the dire t) m IXlffilZe
[he Impact on both the palate and the per n over contmuum of time. How
can rhe} bes en) ) a ene f ta tc and texture ? The Ide of gradmg i.lnJ
equence-pr gr 109 10 a meal from lighter to hca\ ler JI he and from "hlte
to red .... m ,for example-t\o!\'e from thl de lTe. What the palare hex!' nenced 10 the pre\ IOU dl h" III 10 fact ffeet it) enjoyment of (h current n
(A .... eet dl h eaten after a "eeter ne" n't t te
W et a .... h nth
e are o;ened 10 the feVe~ rdef, rex mple.) And h ).... n
e~penen e he be ten) ) ed' Cenamly It helps ( ha\C Wcl I
t at I
ppealmg t ) all the n ,with the )(x! n d n pi
4

n b.:autt surroundings, perhaps with appropriate music. Of course,

tul
-hll1,l,
1d
l
_
'nurateurs together serve as t11e contro 11'mg rlorces W h 0 ensure t h at
-h.:b ,111 res,
'bl
L
- ,
' t 1tal experience IS as pleasurable as POSSI e.
h.: dm.:r:,
.
'ble Impact
'
t
Just asl a frame
will have a subtle but appreCla
on how we
' ting within it, so do the accoutrements of a meal affect our aes\.j.:W, t he pam
'.:nce of it. The appointments of the table-from the centerpiece
en
rhetl e exr 'are-affect our reception of the food that is served in its presI
w~g~W
" whICh may range from poltshed
'
'
even the eating utenstls,
stiver
to
d
el1e e, as d achopsticks. (We were once pleasantly and memorably served just a
ere
lacqu
. '
,
h of a fragrant broth in flat Chmese-style
white spoons as an amuseSiP eae
ule by Manhattan chef Ed Brown!)
gue This is not to say that composing a menu applies only to twelve-course
, gs I'n fine surroundings. Imagine the same level of thought and care
rast tn
applied to a lunch break or a weekend picnic! The art of composing a menu
has to do with making the most of the food experience, no matter how brief
or modest. It has to do with designing the overall food experience-not only
through a series of dishes but through thoughtful attention to each component of a menu {which may also include such items as wines, specialty teas
and coffees, bread, and cheese} as well a~ its pre,~enration (whether in a picnic basket or on Bemardaud china~). The purpoe of provlJing some of the
principles of menu composition I~ not to put chef~ into ,tralt)nckct" of rulefollowing but to liberate their creath'e Imaginari n through a m re complete
understanding of cui mary C3U"e and effect.

The Menu as Shared Experience

'\Y./e've I r rh

oi the menu.

a com-

en~e

position." says Mark Miller. "The Idea of a holt tic exrertcnce, a hared perceptual experience. as opp eJ to 'orJerin u omething'-I think that' part oi
what food has lo~t. 1t\ becl me commercial. Women ch fs In particular are
much more attached to menu:>. The' are, I believe, much more concerned
With creating a eme of family,
the bonding of food and [he
SOCial rroce" and the menu
Itself and how thmgs How from
One thmg to the other. There's
an emotional quotient to food
that I thmk women understand
better than men."
In the earl) day~ of Che:
Pan , M'll
, I er recall, "It wa
mc.e beca use e\ el)one came for

22

.
h b' l' t order. There wa~ this feeling of shared (intlcl_
I
without
t
ea I Ity
a mea,
, '0 t someth ing where they d'd
I n ' t actU:1 II Y know

,
110 eople commg m 0
patLOnP
,
" he says, "Looking across the room, you'd ee
h
hey were gomg to get,
d
w at t
'
h
thing and everyone be ing surpnse ,and everyone
everyone eatmg t e sa m e ,
,
h
h'
Panisse
experience
rather
t
an
t elf own expeTl_
'Ch
being a part 0 f a
ez
b '
'Th
'
d
their own famil y, their own usmess meeting.
ey
ence- thelr own ate,
were part of a larger whole."

Menu Planning in World History

China

cold

France

entree
cheese

Germany
Great Britain,S

hot dishes
salad
dessert

feu: or no hors d'oellvres

des:ert

cheese course

Iud) , U. S.

alad

entree

Japan

mIld

spicy dishes

The Principle of the Thing

The principles behind menu

compo ition are useful to under-

-tanding how to de ign a meal for maximum effect. Even if doing so involve
breaking the rule put forward, at lea tit' bemg done with con dous intention In tead of haphazard whIm, with the hoped.for result being the maxi
mizatlon of plea ure on the part of the dmer.
orne of the key factor underlymg menu compo luon mclude the
season, both for it Impact on the Ingredients that are at thear peak and the
usual daily weatheT/temperature; the guests; the OCCasion or theme; and the
availability of time and other resource . Grading (an ascension of flavors and
texture from Irghter and milder to heaVier and stronger), conmuCS (m
color, texture, and temperature, for example), and the non...,.epttUIO" of
ingredient and gaml hes {unless for COnsciOUS effect} are all Important
Gue ts should leave the table tWled, never hurriedly ruahed nor unc
fortably full.

Examples of Grading Principles in a Menu

light
delicate

rich textures
full-bodied consistencies

subtle

strong flavors

complex

simple flavors

white

brown meats

white

dark breads

white (simpler)
light

'Tis the Season

red (more complex) wines

dark chocolates

"Menu planning is something that people do

at home, for themselves and when they're

cooking for family and friends," notes Altce Waters. "It's very, very important to understand the principles, I think. And a complex thing to do." For
Waters, there's no question where the process start. The first factu, m ,.,Jttmg together a menu is the
"Obviously, it's what's in the market, what' eason- season. With Its particular produce and style of
a!. That's number one," she says. "I jmt go and look, cookmg the season provides the keynote for the
and I really don't decide before I look. What If what whole meal
I wanted wasn't ripe, or wasn't there! I have orne
Currc SKy
ideas, of course; when you get used to domg thl , YOU look through boob
and get Ideas, and then go to the market.
"When I'm doing a menu, I'm thtnkmg about what kind of day It is,
what I feel like eating. If it's cold, do 1 feel like eatmg some w(lrm oup, or If
it's hot outside, do I crave something \'ery ,irople hke a tomato ~alaJ? Then
Immediately I think about what ete need~ to be with that," a):, Waters.
Once cheL know the larder L)f ingredient that are
availahle and of the bbt quality, they mu~t rrive to
present them in ways that Will be~t plea_e their cu~tomeL. "The compO~ltlon of
a menu should ret1ect who you are aHumg the menu for," ay Dante! Boulud.
Charlte Palmer belie\'c;s that chefs hould undeNanJ how their client
feel and know \\ hat they like, and not assume that everyone in the arne party
ha Imllar preferences. "For example, one of our good customer lo\'e~ to ~tart
u; With fme gras and Sauterne. It' perfect for huu," say Palmer, "but hi
Wile
r
.
Iealad, ~erved with ~omethmg aCidIC.
. Our .
1 w uld preler
a Imp
Job.I to
r ea e each cu tamer."

The Audience

CHEFS ON THE ORDER OF A MENU

(:arnru-

Cumumkv

E""fficl'

.1 (1/>,l1IC " ~

CicOTgt.? (]enll0n

kai"'k,

and Jo/llmnl'

111<'<11

Terrance
Brennan

Terrance
Brennan's
comments

amuses, e.g.,
smoked salmon
or scallops,
hearts of palm
salad

You want it to be interesting,

but nut to take their
breath away.

/('{l"cn

colJ entrt-c
(or salad)

vegetable
soup

hot entree

ll1ll ku ~ II kc

(1))1II.ll' gHl'ltles ,

t:,itv.ar or

( ,11\

SlIl' h , h

slI\oh'd salm Iln or hnl

hors d'0(,IWT(,5

01 I Illy cl.,b"r,lIe ,kltea,',,',,)

Iwr.l d ' Ol'ltt'Tl"

,'r "C'PI'UllIllO

s('f\ '~d 1"11 h s"h~

"H'P'

IjOIlI'

SOliI'

:Int'I""'",
....g .. \, ~" hd

soup or
appctizer,
c.g. , oysters

I he

foie gras

()y~h' rs

or

;l SS( 'rlllll' l\l

or soup

roasted or
braised fillet
of beef with
lazedvegera
bles or rice
andjILs

pa,'l,LI

..

lighter
prep'Harioll uf
pasta ur rtsotto

rhe heaVIer
preparation of
pasta or risotto
poached or
patineed fish
or fish stew

fish

fish

.s "shimi

fish, light (sea

bass, hali but)
to heavy (cod,
salmon, tuna)

You want to progress with

flavors, serving the more
delicate fish first, followed hy
the stronger fish. YclU could
start with sea has" in a
vinaigrette, follouoeJ by
scallops u'ith black [ruIIk,.
followed bv salmon u'ilh
hOTserLuitsh

sorbet

relevc.s

n. \~'S I ("'..1 knd

111.1111 C. Hlr~l' III

"'u h \-Cl.!cr ... hles

I'llUltl \, 1ll\';1f
lli"

(.'111

n.'c:-;

grilled

Inc..~'t

nl~in cour~e,
t'.~.,

rneat

g ..tl1h~

rneat or

galne

If po" ible, 1 like to leave It

up to tile guest to select wltat
tlley want-beef, lamb, (yf

game.
n

pasr J I

';1~1

tHt.':\(

lll" g~une

<,II,hl

~" la,1

(,,,1.1,1\

\"'g"t:lhlc~

di.,ll
l' .g. ,,,,,hi

rill'

TllI'"

'''liP

(,lit I,'IIW!"

cheeses

, hl'l'~"S

wrbet

(k . .",lt

d,'$~l:1 t

d,'s'l'l t

it lilt

dessert

May be served in a fruit soup.

dessert

(/>(11/\$,'11<'. Ill'
c'1l';11lI III
Ct .Ik,',

t~I\OI,

hllitl

j'c'flll

.mel

t t', \

coffee
petits fours

You want guests to have

something sweet with their
coffee.

ell< leI ,1.It"~

chocolates

IiqUl'urs

and 'flirt!'

At the very end of the meal,

it's another little surprise
that allows you to surpass
all expectations.

In order to meet the needs of his customers, Daniel Boulud ensure~ that
the lunch and dinner menus at Restaurant Daniel provide reduced-calorie
selections, such as the following:

Appetizers

Artichoke Stuffed with Leeks, Beets, and Horseradish VinaigTette

Lobster Salad with Cucumber, Tomato, Romaine Lettuce
and a Yogurt Mint Dressing
Sliced Sea Scallops Steamed v.'ith Lemon Grass and Vegetables

Main Courses

Warm Chicken Salad tlith Young Spinach, Artichokes, Tomato,

and Q Shallot) us
Gnlled Salmon m a Fennel, Citrtls, and Star Anise Broth
Roasted Free-Range Chicken WIth Hcer and Sour Lemon Sauce,
Gla;:ea Carrots. and Yoan,!; Scallions

c G ld tcm ree that chef: hould try to know who they're cookme for. "Bee u th n )OU can e luc them~" he l.mghs. "If you know they
t
k ~ nd rfu1 trI to Greece I t ) e.lr, you (em reawaken their memories
b, f\ 10 a Gre -10 plred menu. Or VOU l-cm Imply cook them a favorite
dl h th t u kn
(urn them on, nd et It in front of them without saying
a \\ rd. Feedm e pI I hc ndm them a lo\e letter."
Ih t J
,01 tem h p for in re pon e! "When a plate I set
do~n m front th m, I \\ant their e)e [0 light up and for them to say,
Joh" he a . AnJ on e the) ta te it, I want them [0 smile and ay,

II

'Ahhhl' "

Th

omeflme a particular ingredient serves as the

enu emes theme for an enure menu. Ahce Waters was partieularl m plred by a meal he'd had 10 a Japanese restaurant. "I had a ftsh that
\\a aitve, th t they hUed on the pot," he remembers. "They took the filet
t
ff ne Ide nd grilled It. and the other id was hced for sashlml ri8h on
th c unter And the bone were deep-fried It
a great idea for
und tandmg that fISh. and an Inspiration for menu

Rick Bayless
FRONTERA GRIll and TOPOlOBAMPO
Chicago. llJinOO

M menu works well, I believe, because it unveils snapshots of personalities, histoties, and emotions from a
~ place. There is a vivid Oaxac:m melody that runs throu~ the whole, staning with the brash and smoky
c;hilts pasi/las oamquenos. stuffed With shredded pork, nestled mto tangy greens, and soothed with 80ft and
saUCy black beans All the fire and tang resolve into the comfort of creamy, luxurious squash blossom soup,
then the flavors begin to swell with the charcoaled shrimp. roasted vegetables, and tender little dumplings, all
<foused with the COOCerltrated verdant herbiness of the classic Oaxaca green mole. Black mole captivates all
the I1C1I8eS with its inky rich complexity over the savoriness of roast lamb and the sweetness of nut-austed
pIanIIIin wrta. giving twO backgrounds against which to enjoy it. Dessert, I feel, after this thrill of t1avon,
sbouId bring you to a restful spot-but not one that is totally recognizable. The homey, comforting texture of
the trifle is perfumed with orange and the almost-known tropical flavor of mamey. Springing from a pool of
ailMOD prickly-pear sauce, the duscrt combines both what we're hoping fot and where we'd like to be.
Quacan Fiesta
I)inner at

the Beard House in April 1996

Coctel Marimba A blend of metcal. grapefnm jIda. sangrita. and lime.

~ Oomcan Metcal from Encantado

PaIHround appetUen
...__ de AmIril1o-Cnae" {mit mtIS4 a.movm filled UIida cJoesic ,eh mole,
sIa..Mrd cItiden. and hoja santa
au,.daI en Miniatura Tot1iDas crisped (MJ' an otJen jiTe.
liffWir:l tuich Oa.. an serine c:Itt:eK, dtorito. and x....aoIe
~~P.7" g'n pled tuich ,. diIe w,rnbleund"""'"
M .. - cAne

.'1

"*" ...

Dinner

_~S..,o."'""'''I': d'rjilW .... sIa,dW,..r_M,+hr

iF
. .iHI........... /r8 . . u 'J. _ _

IS.-",,"'"

- -

Joadlllll

l'liCh,\1

PATIN A
Los Angeles, C altfonua

Both special menu offerings were designed with the tastes and desire5 of
Patina's Los Angeles clientele in mind. When we first opened for lunch, we
had a lot of people who came constantly-they'd have three lunches here in
a row. When you do that on a day-to-day basis, you want to eat light. You
can't just eat things full of butter and calories.
Some customers see angel hair pasta with tomato and basil as light. I
think of broiled fish or vegetarian dishes as definitely light, and maybe more
satisfying. The Garden Menu was developed to highlight the best available
produce, while the Crustacean Menu was a way to offer a lighter menu which
did not rely on vegetables alone.
I've been a consultant to Canyon Ranch, a spa in Tucson and the
Berkshires, and when you're trying to come up with three meals for 1000
calories, that's a big challenge. There's no dairy, no salt, no high-fat dishes.
Most of the meal are chicken, and most of the time you enhance the food
from a pa tandpoint with onion, leek, scallion, lemongrass, vinegar, mustard, and a lot of different herb.
When you're cookmg for a pa, everything you think about cooking you
can't think anymore. But at Patina, 1 do whatever 1 want. There are no
re trictions, so we often enhance the natural flavor of ingredients with a little butter and cream.

"I guess that' a lot of what we do at Olez Panisse celebrate one vegetable or meat or another," says Waters. "WIth spnng lamb, you'll think about
a menu that goes around that lamb. 111 think about what' growing at the same
time that that httle lamb was, and probably end up With asparagus and spong
onions. I always look up classic prql8f8t1Oll1 c:llamb and how people cook It In
the spring-baking It m the hay, for exampIe-to inlpare what we might do.Other malU thanea are inIpired by
c:I place. Daniel Boul..d
recalls a wild game dinner he
evolved &om (!CIIIIOIIlIDi to pili
a small game bUd 10 a
cI
hairY
'7ocontanue
Joach m Spi hal who collects Dlblraoac"f-aI1Cf.l"'!f8
ph

og aphy, be leves outltide "*1fW8f11

ng

.
h ther or not it's going to be culturally correct. It turns OUt th
out worrymg w e
'It
. . b i t the table we can break down these fearful sort of ba
It IS ecause 1ere a
rfler,
,
I' th IDOSt common remark I hear about my menu. Peopl~
among us. t s e
. '
~ >ai',
'This is unlike any menu I'm used to see mg, and 1 can t make up my mind.' And
I'll say, 'Good I Come back again.' "

The Pacing of Courses

To begin a menu , Daniel Boulud like

to begin with a soup. "1 love soup," h:

says. "In the summer, I'll start with a cold soup, and in the winter, a hot one.
My restaurant menu will typically have twO or three soups ,~n it, and some.
times I run as many as twO or three soups as dally specials. Next, typically,
might come a salad. "Salads offer an opportUnity for different compositIons
and styles," says Boulud. "In the spring I like doing a crab salad with mango
and cucumber served with mint and coriander dressing and crushed peanuts.
It's healthy and refreshing."
The palate should be e

c. h

~ased

"1 certainly have the French and Italian way of

surprised. excited ttJroughoul a mea

looking at a menu," says Alice Waters. "I like a llttle

_p. rd 0 ey .omething w begin. I'd put fish before a meat COurse,
probably. But I'm not ngid about that. I could imagine putting an appeti:er of
sliced pro ciuttn and melon before a gnlled piece of fish with an olive sauce or
something. And I \\ould eat a alad hdnre the entree as a first coure, or if I were
hadng a lmle longer meal, I'd eat It ,lttcr. And <;()metimes I eat it with, these
day~. I kind a like the Idea (t ,1,1LI \\ Ith ,1 me, t Jlh. It help~ to prov ide a little
contrast "nd cut the rrdll1e~ of the me t, til ha\'e ""lad with vmalgrett~.
"\ Itke m 11
rnon. Or I Itke people tn he ahle to help themsehel
from a plJtter an I take wha the~ wOllllltke; th,H'~ Ideal for me," ~ays Waters.
"I don't wanr people to end up bcmg tull- ,Ltl~ticd, ye~, but not full. "
L)dia hire agrc:e that the ~Ize of portiun~ can he very unpurtJOl.
"Certam thlOgs hould be erved 10 deb Ite .lmounb," ~a~ Shtrt:. "L fren,
\\ hen \ order head chee e, It come 10 too thIck a slice and 10 e It Jpreal.
Or \\ hen I've had rabbit pace on my menu, ometime , cook \\ ould hce It
too thick, which I hornhle.
"On the other hand, I love thmg
ter . "Like the ew York teak hou e
they know you'll never be able to fml
And [the Manhattan restaurant) Chn
broccob!"

that arc meant to l"-e huge," he Cl unth, t gnll thrce-pollnd lob re \\hen
h them, or the big ~teak the\ e(\e
t Cella 1I ed to serve .1 whole he J f

me chef control portion ize through the numl"-er f c ur c:

"Our gourmand menu h an extended format-It' nlnc ((llJTC"'-allow more freedom and flexlblltty In the con tru tlOn t eh f th
e"
,ay Wayne I h .' The problem Ith three-cou
t nn t I rh

. mming all of the food

II
ica
Y
Ja
ba;,
.
those three courses.
ps
Into
groU
have an extended
When yOU
. menu, you can spread
ras tlng( d groupS out over flve,
hose rOO
h
[ . e courses, and make eac
six nln
. I
'..d I course more spec la as
indlVI ua
. I.fy
f being able to simp I .
I
aresutO
.
nice parade, m a luxuIt's a1so a
.
. onment , of luxury mgreryen Vlr
d
.
hat can be displaye in
d@mt
..
an almost Japanese presentation fashIOn.
Sometimes a dinner will have so many courses
"What I mean is that If you get m, say, fresh lan- that it's overwhelming.
. to serve it as an entree, you've probably got It's lIke you're being set for slaughter
oous nne ,
o
several on the plate and add a sauce and a -Mar~ Peel
ro put
.
nd it all takes away from the speCialness of that langoustine. But in
stare h. A
a multi-course format, you put that langoustine on a plate in its unadorned
beauty, the specialness that it has, that God gave it, and maybe it only
requires a little sauce to complement it, or some herbs. You're no longer
forced to crowd the plate with really extraneous things that are demanded by
the customer," says N ish

Contrasts

Gary Danko say!>, "Sometimes I'll get teamed with other

chefs to prepare a meal fOf a "peCial event. In accepting, I

say I'll do so on the condition that we really work on the menu so that It flows
beautifully. I don't want to ha\'e a spicy roo~ter gumbo opening up that meal
when I'm planning to serve a delicate fillet of ,ole, r-ecause you're not going
to taste the sale. Your palate is going to be anestheslzed by all those spices."
Daniel Boulud believes it's important that dishes on a menu not overlap in l1avor, taste, or texture. "Each one should have its own identity, its own
character and ta te," he says.
When dNgnmg a menu, Lydia Shire sets the goal of achle\'ing a balance: "I look to see what can playoff the other elements, whether it's spicy
rer,us sweet, hot versus cold, crunchy ver~m :>oft, astnngent ver'>us fatty. In
transitionmg from one cour'e to another, you probably wouldn't want to
lerVt two meat cnur .. es in a row, or two rich cour es 10 a row. You want one
sensation and tlavor to play differently agalmt the next."
Becau e her eclectic cui,me incorporates "uch disparate influences, she
add, "I don't think I'J do a menu that rook you from France to Japan to
uth Amenca, for eXdmple--dt once, then can be toO much. J think you
hould~alT) through with a whole regional theme, But that doe n't mean you
235

Examples of Contrast s
Between Courses in a M enu
brown meat/white meat
cold/hot
cooked/raw
creamy/crisPy
dry/sauced
heat'y/tight
mild/spicy
savory/sweet

' e:I'
t' FlJr example
might
serve one Japanese Ji~h, anJ the
can ,t mo d ern I
.
, "au
I
'
next Indian or Thai-but we wouldn't ~er\'e any dishes u~lI1g cream (which
is not native to A,ian cui,ine) a" part of that menu."
Alice \Vater, belle\'e~ that c~)mbinll1g multicultural influence. wlthm a
single menu I, JlffICult, "I thmk it' very hard to put a menu t~lgether when
you have dl he .Ill over the menu th,lt are fr'lIn Llifferent cui,me<' 'lay
Water. "The all m,} be t bt m n I of them,e\ve,. Rut I keep trYll1g tll ru h
the cook- [at Che: Pam eJ, telbng them, ,It y lu're 111 Itdl), 'ltd) in Ital). Make

dL he-

the plflt l f the I ubdn ,'"

Water iee\ trongl} ahout mtcgrclting ltfferent texture~ within a
menu . "I d n't bke ever} thll1g t I be of( of pureed. If one til h IS "cry
~mllorh, ltke a Ilk) II h \\ Ith, lUCC, I'd mIke the next cour e l:ontra tin ,
111

erved \\ Ith gnlled duck. I like Juxtapo ltIon . And

like Imle fned p tar
alway omethlOg refre hm H the end.

"I ah\a~ thmk ab ut texture and wi r. I thmk that' one thmg I bn

to the menu

till-\\hen I'm CTiuqumg the menu here, It alway ends

being a LOlor Call! Ideratlon. I pick that up, where other peapl d n t
much"
d I \\ant them to be very aromatlc. Oth r peop
,a) W ater. "
An

~hmking about other

tood from one COur

thlOg , like { te, but I hke a kmd of Itvelan

to another."

Rick Ba} Ie believe that creatm

oalance nd parameter "y,ou Want
v
oft, a well a
me fre h c mponent
y . Whtle nearly every au e h
me are heaVIer r light rIOt
heat 'Y u want t ) bUIld
236

menu hould
net
f ( xtur

something that's very hot, and

then cool down with something
that has almost no chile in it ,
before coming back up to something hot again. And it's important to never put too many flavors on the table-there
shouldn't be more than four
courses served," says Bay tess.
"You want people to leave with
. d memory of the meal. Because these flavors are very bold, more than
a \"1\"1
. tOO much for the palate."
t hat I,
Rules are sometimes meant to be broken, which I think that the repetition of certain tastes withm a
explains the appeal of a menu that features the same
ingredient in more than one course or, 10 speCIal or
whimsical cases, in every course-whether potatoes, or
tomatoes, or truffles. "While classically you'd never

menu-corn in the hors d'oeuvres and corn m

the soup, and the grilled flavor of peppers
recalled by grilled fish-can be surprisingly effecfive and unifymg as a recurring theme

repeat any item in a menu, if an ingredient is in sea- -Alice Waters

son. I don't mmd having or serving it more than once," says Terrance
Brennan. "In corn season, one might ~er.. e two dlshe~ featuring corn, or an
all-com menu."
"It's po.;siHe to create a real array of tcl"te~ with one ingredient," attests
Dame! BouluJ, \\"ho~e restaurant nnw offer a ,electIOn of such ta tings with
ad\'ance notice. "At the Beard Hou,e, I once cooked , ~e\'en-Cl)ur,e menu
based on tomatoes. ~\)metimes cu~tomer" will < k me to come up with a trufHe menu durmg truft1e season. It':, part f the eXCItement of a great menu to
be able to achte\'e thi,."

AWay With Words

\Vlllie it'.- fine to haw fun, one of the mo~t

Important thlOg~ on a menu can be < ccuracy.

Thmk of the times you'\'e heen excited to order a dLh, only to have the realIt)' ot It provoke dt,appointment. ", h n )oU write a menu, you want to
deli\<:r the food that )oU prombe," ~a\ Terrance Brennan.
Mark Peel add~, "1 ltke for eople to get a httle more than they expect.
A,nu I\e read man') menu~ where omethm!! oundo gre.H, and you get it anJ
It not qUttt! \\hat it ounded ltke. Or It\ le- than It ;,ounJed like. AnJ that's
\ery dISapPOinting. And I \\oulJ rather th, t there be a little morc, that there's
a htde urpn e there. I don't ltke menu th t read like ;"hopping Ii t."
But , '10(\ :'Ih enon point ut that there are thmg that }Oll can't
y e off MF r example, \OU \\' ulJ ne\er urpn e omeboJ~ \\ith \\alnut,.
J ne\ r urpn e lmebod~ \\ Ith om n, I Jon't thmk." Peel add, "Or
It e \I
2 7

o~

Marrymg the elements of a meal correctly so as to

Lydia Shire believes it's important til hrin

ach eve that eluSive eqUilibnum reqUires an under- humor into a menu . "The way you descrihe a di h
standmg of each separate course and ItS Importhe menu sh ould be fun !" she says. "I'm proud that We
tance Within the overall structure of the menu. were the first to put on our men u such -anJ-!\uch a JI h
-Alice Waters 'with expensive caviar.' People sh ould have a playful
attitude toward food ." Her menu at Biba h as featured lamb's tongue paired
with lamb's lettuce, a play on both words and flavors.
"Chefs shouldn't hesitate to play with words on the ir men us," encour_
ages Joachim Splichal. As a case in point, his menu features a dish of Chicken
Wings with Unorthodox Chicken Liver. Splichal says, "If every menu read
'Broiled Chicken with ... ,' it would be unbearably boring."
While humor can be an effective device, the goal of menu descriptions
should be to get the customers excited about the food. "Anything on the
menu must sound attractive," says Charlie Palmer. "It sho uld make the eu tamer think, 'I've got to try this dish!'"

George Germon & Johanne Killeen

Al K>R 0
Prondena , Rhode I land

Lageder w a vegetanan, we used very little meat on his menu. Also, the
wines had extremely clean, clear flavors,
we knew they'd be perfect
vegetable . In the fIrst coo ,the whIte bea add a creamy texture to
salmon, while the grapefruit pICked up the acidity of the wine. The anti..
to was a nes of dIfferent thmgs. mcludmg egplant and zucchml and a
creamy cheese that went well WIth the WIne.
whICh
tough match With WIne (althoulh
)
the glass
of the - -

added aueam
and
The
diIh; lOUIe wae . ._

Even if the table is a tap, and the food aad wine play
tarring roles, the performance of a m:at would not be
che . . . .,uhout its supporting players. If any of the playen are out of sync,
JuIft &he efl'ect of an entire performance. An ill<hoeen first course...thIIt 100 spicy, for example can ruin a delicate entree. Mismatched
- .... {ood nun our enjoyment of them both.
... In phlnniDI menus, it's important to consider the special role of various
......lII
accompaniments. While dearly not every menu one writes will
r#* IoaIt multiple course feast, coming to recognize the flow of well-written
be' .J any 1
_ d
. . 'crl

Lr
of compOSItion.
..
lJIf"'1CI1j. .. cntaou to mastenng tile art
.' ....
c

'The pogtzrion c1 wines served during a meal should provide its

QIftI pera1lel. harmonious symphony to that of the food. Wines
..,w O .,.,..,ent me food with which they are served. as well 81 the

giL

. .ao ,.,.. Alaia 1'1 ' .....

S ' IS' ......

ww. BerIns and OrlOfCli ,., VmllClPtnoc 0: W .991

r t
Although few rea Ize J ,
IS

"It's important to pair food to wine, ano not vico

"
versa," says Jeremiah Tower. "A bottle of wine (;1"
"
_MFK Fisher change like that, but ingred ien ts are more 5table."
Joyce Goldstein agrees. "I always ask for the wines be~~re coming up
.h
t:
a wine dinner so that I can taste them fIrst, she says. ,,\, .
WIt a menu ror
'
.
.
'
IVI)
,
mell'er and wine is important m our famIly. Wmes surprise "ou'
son IS a sam
,
1
,
,
change even over the course of a year.
wmes can
,
'
"Too many chefs don't taste the wines before creatmg a menu for a wine
and food dinner. I was recently preparing a menu for a special event and Was
planning to serve lamb. But after tasting the red wine that was going to be
accompanying it, which was pruney, 1 reahzed It would h ave made the lamb
taste toO muttony," she said. "In the end, 1 decided to revise my menu to serve
beef instead, which was a much better match with the wine, In another case,
one wine I tasted was over-oaked, and I could only pair it with potatoes,
which helped to neutrali:e that, Other chefs' egos are sometimes too big,
thinking that the food IS more important. But wine and food should make

to be complementary
.
in itself a compltment

each other look good."

Jimmy Schmidt concurs that when creating a menu for a wine dinner,
the wine them;;elves are the tarting point; he also develops dishes that make
the most of their paIring with the particular wines. "The personality of the
wine will !.!I\'e vou dIrection to ,hare the dish in a way that will enhance the
t1avor of the wine," heay .
Franc;oi P,l)arcl recall, bem o a ked to crecite a desert to be erved with
Ch-teau d'Yquem. "It ,"ould h, ve been a crime to serve it with a chocolate
de~ert," he ay. Becaus of the frultlne ~ of the Chateau d'Yquem, Payard
decided to en e, m, ngo ,oup made with fre h mango puree and coconut
mIlk, "If you know," me, )OU kno," it won't go with chocolate, which is bit,
ter and powerful," a) Payard. "But ometlmes port can go with chocolate.
becau e It' aged and piCler."
A fruit compote can be served with a great de rt wine, as long as the
compote i not too weet. "If It'
too weet, the wme WIll taste
our, " note Jeremiah Tower.
Tropical fruit best lend them,
elve to palTlng with dessert
wines, he add .
On the other hand, "a nch,
weet chocolate dessert will oblu,
erate the wme," accordmg to
Tower. .. WIth chocolate, coffee
hould be served-or nothing."

.'th wine is the best because

In

matching food with wine, you

\,\'NkU11l III
,
' .. ncellatlon and reintorcement
of flavors. For example:
do <1 !elt 0 t L:1

,
h 'e a wine that has a lot of tannin in it, you want fats and salts
It yt1U <1\
.
' d )f rake the edge off the tannm.
to k111 l
, , 'e got a lot of herbaceous qualities, which I'm not terribly fond of
It yOU \ ,
,
.
, . "ou can use green thll1gs ltke parsley or greener-flavored herbs
In \\'1I1e, I
.
'nto
the
sauce
at
the
last
second
to
Strip
away a lot of those
m'lr Ied l
herbaceous qualities in the wine. You'll associate the herbaceousness as
'no ml)[e from the narsley than from the wine.
C01111 '"

If [he wtne i, high in acid. your sauce can come up right to that acid
level; then there wouldn't be much contrast between the two acidity
levels, so it's not going to seem ,'ery acidic. On the other hand, if you
go higher in acid on the sauce, then the wme will seem bnd of Hat, If
you go ron Iowan acid in the sauce, then the wine will seem very acidic,
In terms of bod)' and fla~'OT. If it's really a \'t'f) light \\me, the cnncentration of the sauce can kIll It if ~ecome. l) powerful th,lt the wme
seems watery.
In tenm (If [nat leveb, if you've ~ot a I t III [he Wtnt.: and there' none
in the S:luce, the ,auce will be tlat. ~o vou've ~ot to brmg lip 'Clme of
the reJ flavor, m the ~auce-red wme reductlon, the a lditi n llf re I
frult puree hke cranberr). The \\ me will t.1 te frUHler Ii) u've l!ut lOb
of red tlw r in the ~auce than if you don'c Your mmd will read the re 1
in the ~auce .1' part of the wine, \\ hen really It' part 0 the tlll,-e.
There are ome \\'ine~ thelt ha\'c a lot of!!o d earrh\ ch, factefi~tlcsthey're tlmry anJ -uch. You can u e thc dner 'pice~ like curie nller that
rem to come off a, more of an earrh}-t)'re tlavor or rnmeral-t'ype tla~

vor.
~

~ 1I

can either hUlld eli he, [0 runfofu: them, which i., t" get
tho'c flavor, c.lo,e, of \UU dn .,epar.lte them qUIre cI hit for contfa r ,lOll
~tnp them. YOli C~1n kill a wme re.llly e.\Stl~, or you can reall~ parallel lip
next to It. With a \\ me, )OU ha\ e ,1 perceIved IT te-then you take out of
the \\ me )Our o\\n perception II the t te of the \\ ine\ Jlfferent flavar"
nd then )Ou de Ign the JI,h ,lfUun I It, With f1<l\,llf that \\ til coar,ltn.lte
)OU

r all welL

" 9

241

Jimmy Schmidt
THE RATTLESNAKE C LU B
DetrOIt , M ichLgan

This was a real seasonal menu that really captured all the first mgredients of
spring-the asparagus, the wild mushrooms, the scallops and oysters. There
was a real seasonal-regional approach, although obviously not all of the ingre_
dients come out of Michigan. The sauces were really attuned to the Win es.
That's what really made the dinner something special. The flavors in the
dishes tended to enhance the wines by cancelling any of their tougher char.
acteritlc and allowing the real fruit and balance in the wine to Come fo r\\ard. Food and wine harmom' is not all ju t trying to pair ingredient together, but to match cerram t1a\'or m the wme-whether herbaceous or earthy
or flmty-with _Iffillar characten tiC m the fo d, derendmg on which )'OU
want to be more pred rom nt. Y u - n u ~ d (md wme pamng to reinforce
f1avor~ that ou \\ or to a centuat r hi hit ht, a w II as cancel out things

f.
Thl p ret ul r pr p rau n
thrall h m n 1m rh t mak4;!s
dIe), nd
ppm th
1m n
r dl h nd th r
m
that

)OU \\

nt to et n

10

n r

It

mv lye running the potato

cappellim ( t)pe Jf pa ta n 1m n c cwally h h d hor e
rt r t
m WI pped. It' uteed
th pot to vet) en p)
n. hI h m
ur . It gl\ It the run hyexte
th
1m n come thr u hand

no m... ...4r..

Th
er

In

r II the c mbm (I n I w
nut me nd kmd (pI Yfl v r f
h r than
nut per The

h
t"... ,1 ..

th
pi

he
pear

the OUtslide.
then more
ind

erwh tmmg-I[ kmd f u

m whll
ert 10 n hn of I wn
I th
I t red wme with chocdare The
"VI'" real I roeethc:r-iOI1:.t fruiu are little ~ U\
me which wh I
the P* which filled with
roosted and then ftlIed, and then covered wiIh cbx:olatt
realIvcnmch
me ~~
inlkle."fhe

Uflno>

-------

---

Alice Waters
C H EZ PAN 1SSE
Berkeley, CalIfornia

This menu was composed to ce lebrate the arri val of the 1971 vintage f h
.
.
.
..
0 t e
Domaine Templer wmes. The look of the Wild flce wIth the tiny green e
was a wonderful acco mpaniment to the quail. It was at this meal
:'
decided that creme fWlche is ideally suited for serving with stewed figs.
e

tha~

The Bandol Wine Dinner

Fresh DelicaCies from the Sea

A Bouillabaise of Salt Cod made u,lth Garlic, White Wine , Tomatoes, Omons
Potatues, Fresh Basil, Orang-e Rind, Oln'e Oil and Fish Broth
'

1973 Bandol. Domame Tempier

Fre h QUail Roasted Protellfal Styl~ u Ith Branches of Fresh Thyme and
Ollle Oil 'ened ulth \'CllJ Rice and Fresh Peas
197 I Bandol, Domwne Tem/)ier

[ (he t: from rh ollth of France

1974 B rulol D mam Templer

ked ulth H 11

and Band I Wme en d uith Creme Frdlche

In dd,u n t ~ me, hread I flen the only con tant wtthm an

nttre me II. H we\er, I d n't hke the way bread I treated In
m t Am n n re t ur Of ,
Ahce Waters. "When you get ned a bl
pile bre d ~ lth pi te f butter the mmute y< u are seated 10 a re tau n
It talc a~ th ppetlte And people u e It t) de n up the plate I thmk f,
th m t p " we n ed t get b ck t
It ht b guette belOg sen ed With
me 1 And I d I v thm Itke t n
n br ds Ned With Indl n dm'~

Bread

wh re th

pi

I I

Ir I

an lOt

t the br

Idn t

irh"'rd

lUnd

er
h",., ..

If --~.--

in meals, and American

the gap
.
, . some ot whom have the
dlnCf:', '
n spans of three-yearatr entlo '
ed something to fill the
01 d5, n e
,
. B It I'm never qUIte sure
gaps. l
th
't belongs. To eat with e
IV here I
7 To sop up the meat
cheese.
"
7 Ma"be that's why I forget
JUices.
I
,

It,

"

b I

Lindsey Shere
e ieves
that bread is an important accompaniment to a meal. She observes that
"large flavors often need a background to hold them in place. And I happen
to like the flavor of flour and yeast. I don't have a lot of interest in things like
cheese bread, because I don't think they work well with dinner menus."
In Shere's definition, a perfect bread is "the levain bread at Acme
Bread," she says. "It's got a gutsy flavor, and is good with cheese, butter---or
nothing!" Even leftover bread excites Shere. "I think a delicious crouton can
add a really special touch to a dish," she says. Alice Waters echoes this: "A
lot of our food is served with croutons, whether it's a garlic crouton with a fish
soup, or a crouton topped with grilled leeks served as part of an antipasto."
Shere believes butter or olive oil i~ the perfect accompaniment to good
bread. To heighten the expenence of enjoying La Brea Bakery's wonderful
breads, at Campanile Mark Peel and 1ancy Silverton offer customers an
opportumty to order one-ounce pOrtions of variou, extraordinary olive oils,
ranging from $1 to $2.50 per ounce, to clccompany them.
Silverton believes that there ~hould he a progre~5ion of flavors 10 bread
throughout the course d a meal. "White ~ourdoughs are appropriate for starting out, to be followed by header bread, like rYb," she qyS,
Silverton also gives careful thought to pair10g bread With other courses. She once had to come up With a bread to pair with a fote gras dish by JeanLouis Palladm at an e\'ent. "1 selected a fruit amI nut bread, which will work
With the dish If It\ sliced very, very thinly," ,he ,ay . "Duck i~ great With sour
dried cherrie . . , pecans, candied orange, and the,e flavors abo work well with
[ole gras," SImilarly, she's teamed a mu,hroom brea...i made of farro with a
nsotto With chantereltes. and palred a i lormandy rye made wlth fermented
arl'le Cloer with hearr~ f()()d, like cabba~e, Whde Silverton th10b that few
foods can hold up to the strength dnd the ~ourne"s of a pumpernickel, she
ftnds both o'jsten, and moke 1 hh
- e jual to the ta~k.
Even ,nd\l.lche can be <.:nhanced by the ~electlon of the right, comrlemental) hread "I thmk a ceded ourdoll!.!h goe~ well with turkey, an I a
Frenc.h h gu ette I de I!CIOUS With pro ciutto .Ind utter,
b " ~'II verton 3)'
. , "A n d

Pro?sident and Co-founder

Tht' Acme Bread Company

Bt'rkeley, Cahforma

A., a ru,hl\' and cook at Che: Panbse in the mid-1970s, self-descnbed bread fanatiC teven ulhva n
,tarted baking head for the restaurant. His ll1spiratlon? "The book English Bread and Yeast Cooke h
"
who went on to open Acme in 1983. Acme has su"plied
Ba, Y. TYA reaY
t

2) Theatre-both in the brea.d itself, and within the restaurant context

.;; dli\'an has enjoyed expenmentmg
with different shape, of bread. "If bread
is d'ff
_l
"
'
I erent .In one way.
-u,wl11er \I'd I pay more
attention to all of Its characteristics"
he argues "And I't'S entlcmg
'.
;1 l
. .
, .
to he
able to .qy 'We baked It ourselves -espeCially when I was a busboy at Chez Panisse and could t II
customers, '1 made this.' It's theatrically effective."
e

3) Heart and soul-what the baker brings to the bread

"You can tell when someone brings an energy and exuberance to bread. In fact, sometimes a funky
bread can work If there IS enough theatre and soulm the bread to overcome less-than-perfect techOlque. "
,

With regard to pairing bread with food. Sullivan cites a few of his favorite combinations. "We
sen'ed rye bread with oysters in the Cafe [at Chez Panisse], which is a traditional combination," he says.
"I like peanut butter on toasted whole wheat bread, and toasted cheese sandwiches on levain bread.
And I like walnut bread with goat cheese. I don't know if that's a traditional combination or not, but
on our honeymoon my wife Susie and 1 really enjoyed it." Does Sullivan prefer hutter or olive oil on
his bread! "I think both are really, really good ways to get your USRDA of fat," he deadpans. "I recommend both heartily."
Does Acme bake the best bread in the world? At first. Sullivan humbly dodges the question by
usmg It as an opportunity to relate how Keith Richards of the Rolling Stones was once asked to name
the best rock-and-roll band m the world, and Richards' rerlv that lln any r<lrticular night, anywhere in
the world, at some bar, you can find the be't rock-Clnd-roll hand tn the wmld.
But after further proddmg, ullivan fmally ddmn . ", nmetimes the hre<ld we hake is awfully good."

The hors-d'oeuvre IS the first magisterial move-

to help the diner feel happy that they'rl' therl'," agrces

Joachim Splichal. "The fiN bite shoulJ ~e amumg, hke
a com blini With marmateJ salmon and caviar [an amuse
Sphchal ,enJs out to Patina's special cu~tomcr J. Canar
IS not cheap. '><.) It's a nice surpri~e to welcome the !!Ue~t
to the restaurant and say hello."

ment of a culinary symphony that continues to

the very end WIthout a false note Just when
you've reached the ultImate WIth a particular
course another follows to surpass It
-Fer'1and Po.iII

Jeremiah Tower's preferred way of welcomml:! a gue~t is with !>omethmg

,altv. and ch ampagne. W h'Ie h together sen'e to cleanse the 1'a Iate. "I t can he
caVlar
but I't uOe.,n
,)
'h
.
'
t ave to he-ham. pork, or air-cured heef can a II he de I1CIOUS I J
k to serve anythmg with butter, because it du II s t I1C
I'
on 't I I'C
pa ate .... But I w()ulll n 't t urn down hi ml
'" wit h caviar.
. I"
In Sume ca.,e , the fir"t cour,e .en'cd i a oup. "Even if people only
want a few C
I I
Ollrse, a ways give them ,oup," says Jean-LouL Palladm.
\I,
I ?ut (,f re pect for 1exican tradltton, Rick Baylb> feel the 'arne. "You
au '1 never h i "
ave a mea m ~ lexlco where oup wa' not erved. he expIam.,.

"

M e

247

A particular favorite at his restaurants is one of fresh com anJ r():\ ted
po blanos, WI"th a handful each of epazote (a fragrant, amse-flavored ' h"ht
... .
herb which "gives the soup a light mouthfeel") and raw masa (the dough
green
"
" ) "Th"
.
used for tortillas, which gives the soup Its creammess .
IS soup IS tangy and
tart, light and crunch y," says Bayless. "These ar~, s~ul-satisfying flavor,."
On the other hand, A lice Waters argues, I m a soup-as-mam-di,h ptr.
son. Soup is too filling, and I find it h ard to fit into a menu, unless it's a COn.
somme., "
Nancy Silverton knows exactly what sh e likes in terms of
cheese after a meal. "Always a blue ch eese," she says, "and
always a goat cheese. If the blue cheese is Stilton or gorgonzola, then a fresh
goat cheese. If it's a mild blue, then I like an aged goat cheese. And I alway,
like a strong-tasting cheese-even a Parmesan."
If only serving one bread with cheese, Silverton would like to see It be
a white bread, such as aourdough batard, while Lindsey Shere might opt for
a whole wheat/walnut bread offering. "It's so good with cheese," Shere says.
And wme I~ a mu -t to properly enjoy cheese, according to Charles
Palmer. "I don't under-rand when people don't drink wine with cheese," he
says. "It's hard to intrude on -omellne ,md mk m'lkmg them feel stupid in the
re~t3urant b} n t urdenng It. But )metllne- I'll send over a little glass of port
If I ee people e ung chee e \\ Ithout reu w1I1e or port."
"I thmk thClt ch<.::e e like drieu J,LLk, lJruy re, emJ harJ sheep' -milk
chee e .Ire the be t to he encd With wme," ay~ Jeremiah Tuwer. "Triplecreme He much t
tT ng ~ r red \\ II1 ."
E\ en Palm r, .... ho I ,I partner 111 a dalr" admits th,1t "cheese i~ often
Cheese IS like the apotheOSIS of a good meal too much for 100 t penple. It' too much t~)r me half
-C
y the time' At Chantcrelle lin New York Cltyl, they
h'IVc ,m mcreulhle chee e ui pldY. But
after that, de ert hCl.:ome ,In ,llterth ught."
ervmg chee e With '1 meal u ually call for a imple de ert, like a
herbet, according to LmJ e~ hen:
Or m Altce Water' case, "I like chec e
In tead of de ert
maybe with a little
candy at the very end. 1 love h e
nd frUIt. Or che e nd ala \. )r
chee by It elf with
f, w nut IOJ
drIed frull . But I rcall Ilk
h

Cheese

Roquefort
Parmesan
Fontina

+
+
+

aprles
dates
rears

I
j

---

Terrance Brennan admits that until he visited three-star

restaurants in France, "I was not much of a dessert person. But
ail' how sublime it could be." Brennan fell in love with "the perfect
(here. J
mille-fetlille" and other desserts he was served, which he found the perfect
finaJe to a great meal. ''Too often before that time, I was disappointed with
dessertS. But now 1 believe that a great meal should end with a great dessert,"
sayS Brennan. "It also inspired me to make sure I worked every station during

Dessert

my swges-including pastry."
One of the best desserts Brennan ever had was at Le Bacon, an allseafood restaurant in France famom for Its houillabab~e where the windows
opened out onto the Mediterranean. "I wa~ .,ened a perfect jraise de bOIS
(Wild mawr-erry) tart. It was just sahle , a Itght, cmpy, airy 'iugar crust-and
a little pamy cream, and fraises des bois ," Brennan rememher~. "It was sublIme. "
The key to a great dessert? "FLnllr. The marrtage of perfect ingredients.
Getting the best chocolate you can buv and the hest fruit you can huy," says
Brennan. "Not having too man\' Jiffaent thing on the plate. Preparing the
dessert a !a minute as much a pl)."lhle,.,p It\ a' tre,h a, po."ihle. And it
,houlJ be focused: it ha.., to make en e."
"De sen should he an equal pan of the meaL" ..,ays Ch,nles Palmer.
"And It ~houlJ he built around craving . . People tenJ tl) have definite feelings
about de sen. Even If I told a customer, 'Thi de"ert i., perfect With what
you're haying,' I'd \\orry about disappOlnt1l1g them! Sometimes you feel like
eattng a specific thing for de'sert."
cravinos 1fe not alwa\'~
for chocolate.
"I'll De plte ItS t'nopularit\J1 in de"~"rt,.J...... oJ,
1
.
go through phase when I don't tat chocolate," says Palmer. "In the wm~. n thtng \\11I taste a~ good as a c.lramdi:ed appil: de~'iert." On the other
nd, ~~\ent\-fl\e percent of Cll,romers love chocolate," says Dieter
L h rner. "And they \!tIll be di appomted If there\ not a chocolate de"ert on
tile menu."
L

1""0'

249
a

A pastry chef has the unique challenge of making desserts that complement
a chef's creations. Lindsey Shere has
faced that challenge under a long line of
chefs at Chez Panisse, from Jeremiah
Tower to the restaurant's current chef,
Jean-Pierre Moulle. "I still create based
on my own inspirations, but I also try to
keep up with them and to understand
where they're coming from," sh e says.
"Jean-Pierre is the most classic ch ef we've
had in a while , probably since Jeremiah .
His interest is more French-oriented , and
since he started out in pastry, it's great because h e knows the kinds of things
he'd like to see with a particular menu as dessert, whether it's a cake or pastry or sherbet. That's a big help !"
Shere contrasts h is style \-vith that of former Chez Panisse chef Paul
Bertolli: "Paul was more interested in Italian cuisine and simple desserts. But
he liked fireworks-he once came back from New York City, where he'd
eaten at Le C irque, and was talk in g about a dessert he'd had with planets and
swirlmg "auce,. He loved that. A nJ 1 J o think that Je~~ert is the one place
where you can have fun and occa ionall y do.1 whimsical garnish that i illy."
Too often, dessert IS a sugar fiX rathar than a
h ere u e choLolate when the chef sugge t that
little touch of sweetness as a change from the It' appropri lte. "J e~m-Pierre knows the richness of his
savory, the salty or the piquant
men u-,' . y .... here. Getting the green light recently
-A ce W
m plred her to erve a trio of chocolate desserts: a
lourie,s ch ala te cake, a chocobte-orange herber. and chocolate-almond
bark. "~o me pe pIe like chocol te nv time," he admit, "but after something n ch, [ prefer clean and hght f1av r . A tangerine sherbet with liqueur
poured over It can be the be t . emu herbet and pear herbets are desserts
[alwa) ltke. And they're alway served here With accompamments hke
cookie ."
While here thmks it "impos Ible" to name the be t de sert he' ever
had, one particular dessert doe rand out in her memory. "Timbales EI',Ysksa de sert with a cookie cup, a scoop of ice cream, berrie , and sauce an a
caramel cage," he say . "It is such a wonderful combmation of textures and
fla\ or ."
But an extraordmary dessert can also be qUIte Imple. Ahce Warecall, "One of my favonte, favome dessert ever was after a kalSeki meal III
K),oto. We had had seventeen fam tiC cour ,wIth ten peopl In

'h cooking for five people at the counter. It was

kIte en.ing experience. And at the very end, we were

an ama.
a little glass of the most sweet and delicious
(lffereJ

Very rich desserts should follow only the simplest

of meals; on most menus, something light and
playful in spirit IS best. Lots of air, in the form of a

, e J'uice that was not too cold or too warm- souffle or a mousse, is usually apprecIated, ices
wngen n
. the perfect temperature. And you just drank it, are refreshing,
Just hat was it. It was ,teen
h
d' -and Just
. so nice
. to be -Richard Olney
an d t
h
1
I "
able to punctuate t e ~ea pr~per y. ..
,
In Susanna Foo s opmlOn, tradmonal Chmese desserts "aren't very
They're typically either very heavy, based on pureed walnuts or red
d
gOO .
'ust fresh fruit. Even there, Western-style bakeries are popular." Foo
beans, 0 r J
. ,
'
akes some liberties from tradmon WIth her desserts, such as serving poached
t
flavored with star anise and ginger, or creme m-u!ee flavored with ginger
pears
.
.
If he chooses to serve multtple desserts to end a meal, Franc;:ois Payard
might start out with a small fruit soup-"just two or three bites," he saysbefore serving a tiny fruit dessert, perhaps followed by a chocolate dessert. "I
don't make smaller chocolate desserts, because they're a lot of work,"
explains Payard. "And dessert is like food-you have to take the time to
,
."
appreCIate
It.
Charles Palmer enjoys presenting a table of six with a combination of
desserts. "I'll send twO, two, and twO of three different desserts. People love
passing them back and forth, trading tastes-it becomes party time!" says
Palmer. "Dessert is the time to festively finishing things off in a mea!."
Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken agree. They recall a $250-a-head
dinner for which they were asked to provIde the des en. "We erved ice
cream sandwiches made with mocha chip Ice cream." ~1tlliken remember

WIth amusement.
Some chefs make a pomt of extending the pleasure at the end of an elaborate meal through petit fours and chocolates. "I love petit fours ," ay' Terrance
Brennan. "In the European style, e~preS50 -hould be ~en'ed after dessert, and
it's mce to have a sweet to go WIth your espresso. I sen'e a plate of petit fours
\\'l[h the coffee. followed by a plate of chocolates to end you on your way."
Franc;:ois Payard believes there 5hould even be an order to the .ervice of
the chocolate" "They should be con.umed from the ltghtest to darke. t. Just
like wme," he .av, ,

Coffee, Tea?

Joachim Splichal. whoe restaurant Patina already

offers chamomIle and thyme-lemongra,s "infu~ions"
after a meal ,I now expenmentlOg
.
, WIth c.tate co ffee~. to he -erve d '10 10 d'1VIdual plunger- tyle coffeepot, Our coffee L a blend of four different type
t c.. ffe e we came up with "IX year ago after trYlOg more than fift) different

he says ' "and we've learned that now people

know their c(l~.
ff
.
Coffee has taken on the importance of the ~alet ~arkmg . guy who open th~
door for the customer- it can be a customer la t Impre slon of a re taurant "
ieter Schomer recalls the standard for tea at one of the f tne. t
D
taurants where he once worked. "There was never granulated UPr
re
rved with it--only brown sugar cubes or cry tal sugar.
The tea fl aVor
.
se
ome out better with raw sugar, as oppo ed to pulven zed, bleached ugar,"
C
rr
..
Cill,e9,

says Schomer.

A opposed tc wntmg a set

menu for a ingle meal, WrItIng
a re taurant menu i all about giving one' customers choices on that are
likely to please them, and one that the restaurant will be able to fulfill, In
most case , for an entire season.
It' mostly the latter constramt that promp Daniel Boulud to ~
"If It were up to me, I would not havana fa ctII'te menu. I would Just cook
every day whatever I could buy, and ha a hmated menu rna
four appetizers, four mam courses, and four
ha them change II the
time." The varied
1

Writing a Restaurant Menu

tare a much lorIaoer mer.... wl'lMft'l

tty,"

Boulud adnUtl.

,
t" g together a menu, we'll make a roster of sauces fir t
When we re put In
.
.
'
'nitely
from
the
sauce
as
the
starting
pOint.
We work very defl
. '
rants we have the sort of protem categones pretty well
2) Li ke most re t au
,
fixed. You've got to have poultry, you've got to have fish dishe and
1)

staceans and that kind of stuff.

3) ~ew days after we've come up with that, we'll sit down and talk about
the way we're going to put it on the plate. That usually will dictate or
give rise to a number of idea for accompaniments and garnishes and
that sort of thing.
4) After we've got that sort of ketched out, we'll live with that for a few
days, and then we'll come back and really fine-tune it. We're just getting ready to make a menu change at Topolobampo next week. We'd
gone through thi whole proce and last night I wa doing the final rewrite on the menu, and I realized that we had too many things coming
from one tation. We'd been thinking more in term of all the flavor,
in the di hes, but we didn't get it right in term of the logi tics on our
line, so we had to go back and re-vamp me thing this morning.

And the t Clng proce hould be thorough. "Before you put something
on a menu, you houldn't JU t ta te it with your finger," 'ay Jean-George
Vongerichten. "You mu t eat a whole plate of it fir t."
"I could write a menu an an afternoon," ay Lydia hire. "But to do
It right, we pend week developang and te ting idea , reading, tJlkln b,
researchmg angredien ,and ma)ung ure each di h i great. We cllulJ JU t
put a curry d h on the menu and leave tt at that. But in tead, we go to the
Indian market and get me edtble tlv r leaf to put on the plate. And u Ie
[RegL5, Shtre' second-tn-command at Blba] wtll develop a poem-a puffed
Indtan bread to serve WIth tt. ow he make the be t poon in the
orld!"
WnClng
a
restaurant menu

typically undertake Ie8lO11lally-<>r even m< re

frequendy. e Uchanae the menu
a
tn order to tncorpor te
inpedlel\ at their peak m the
e a r l y " y Daniel
II

a pm::ell

that ladq

Bo.,hwl
Oil cook IeMOM

118-.

..
Terran Sr nn
wir11ter alona tth a lor m Ie I

cooking and rustic cooking. It lightens

up in the spring, and in the summer it
goes really light-more geared toward
fish and lighter preparations."
Brennan points out that it's produce that changes the most from season
to season. So while he has certain nonseasonal dishes, such as risotto with
wild mushrooms, that are always on the
menu, he'll change the garnish with the
seasons. "The same risotto dish I serve
with a pumpkin garnish in the fall
might be served with a squash garnish

in the winter, an asparagus-and-fava-bean garnish in the spring, and a corn

garnish in the summer," he says.
The startIng point? Daniel Boulud says he gathers books, prior restaurant menus from the same season, and a list of previously-run specials from
the same season in order to come up with a "repertoire" of ingredients for that
season.
"The most important thing here IS to focus on the products I know and
the quality and reliability of the supplier~ I use to get them in. When there
are ingredients that I can only get in ~poradlcally, I'll feature them as dally
specials instead of putting them on the menu," ~ay~ Boullid. "Thmg, like frog
legs, which I can only get in on Monday~ or ThurdaY'-lf I'm gomg to put a
dish on my menu, then I have to l">e certc1m thrtt the supply and quality I can
get is consistent."
Johanne Killeen says that seasonabty is probably the most Important
thing when commg up with a menu. "In the summer, (Jur menu is just loaded
with com and tomatoes. In the fall, we go into 'quashes. In the wlllter, cabbage. and sweet potatoes and a lot of pumpkin, and now [in the spring] we're
beginnmg to see some green again," ~he -ay . "But going to the market IS a
big influence. We market every day, and when we vi it our wholesaler occasionally we come l">ack loaded with tuff to experiment with."
Once the basic menu has been established, chefs J~lIb,~e-check
to ensure that their offerings mclude enough diverSity. I hke to
gIve my cu tomer a broad varlet\'," ,a\'s Joachim Splichal. "You have to have
h:ef, chICken, and veal on the menu;
expected at a place like thiS. About
four ~ear agO, \\e
. add ed
'
.
Ad
vegetanan
and eafood offerings
to t h
e menu.
n
a couple of year' ago we added the category of 'Odd Things,'" whIch include~
rhchal' beloved offal.

Variety

it's

rn p

255

With one week's advance notice, Restaurant Dan iel offer peciai ta tlng
menu and classic dishes that can be ordered for the entire tabi e.
These include:

US Menus sur un Theme

New York State Apple Menu

Black and White Truffle Menu
North Atlantic Seafood Menu

Wild Mushroom Menu

Wild Game Menu

CHEZPA 1 E
~ CAJ;fomia

'Remember that dish we had

" Can you imagme if AI
3t. .
Forno took gnlled piz:a off their
1 I v,Jould cry. When I go to
U
men
A.I Forno, I'm having grilled pizza.
; have tWO pizzas, and it's great and
that'S part of the identity of the
restaurant. But you can be sure
that George has got to be a little
. I"
tired of making those PIZZas.

. ht

"The best compliment you can get is when a custamer is leaving the restaurant after a several-course
meal and says, 'I feel so good!'" says Hubert Keller. "The food doesn't lie."
As we've seen, how chefs accomplish that feat is through applying
basic principles of menu composition to achieve their desired affect on a
customer, just as great composers and playwrights can hit the right buttons
that they know will make us laugh or cry.
Joyce Goldstein believes that as a chef, you must design the way a menu
will affect the customer. "You have to figure out, with finger food and a threecourse meal plus dessert, how many orgasm do you have in a meal? You don't
want to have four! Nothing Will have any meamng, because they'll all be the
same," she says. "So it's, How do you want to play It? Do you start quiet and
build to the second course, and then lay l(m and build to the third? Do you
start quiet, quiet, quiet, and build? Do you hit them the first time, and let
them recover? You have to choose where you think your big gun is, or the one
that's going to cause silence at the table. And you can't do it at every course.
So you Just have to plot your attack. Which dish is the killer? WhICh is nice?
WhICh is another little crescendo? And where's the surpnse?"
Norman Van Aken sa'-'s
"Durin a"' a wine dinner there's an Inherent
J ,
probability of gomg from light to rich, interposing It occasionally WIth a little preview of a little bit of richness before you get down to the very rich,
and then a relief somewhere In the mIddle.
"1 think of composing a menu a a lot like putting together a four-act
play," Van Aken ays, before providing examples of the roles various ingredle~ts and di he, can enact. "Every now and then, the villain's got to jump out
ot the do et and scare the -hit out of everybody. The 'villains' are only m the
Wording, in the 'Co,tumlng.' I might de,cnhe ~omethlng 'chile-rubbed and
rO~ted brea t of squab on a habanero sal~a'-but when it's eaten, It's not
gOing to be VillainOUS. And at the end, the little girl comes out with a flower
In her hand. he's afe, we're all safe-we've had chocolate!"

When It's Rig

m p

259

. ,.
COMMON ACCOMPANIMENTS TO ENTREES
O ver time, certa in accompaniments h ave become familiar companion to
various entrees-liver and onions, meat and potatoes, pork chops and apple_
sauce, turkey and stuffing. This list includes other combin ations that, while
perhaps not as well known, are similarly time-tested matches.
Given that toda y vegetables are co mmonly incorporated as part of a
dish itself rather than simply served as a side dish , there is some ambiguity as
to whether the match should be included under "C omposing a Dish" or her e.
Readers may wish to refer to both lists, whether co mposing a dish or a men u,
for different inspirations.
While this list provides suggested matches, a chef's poin t of view will
inspire how they will be applied (or whether they will be rein terpre ted or
ignored!). For example, the classic combination of meat and potatoes is open
to

interpretatlon as:

Pot-Roasted Beef Fillee tt'ieh

~fashed

POtatoc8

-George Germon & ]ohanne Killeen

Grilled Fillet of B.:ef u lth Cracked Black P.:J)pcr and Cognac Mustard Cream ,
send u-ith Shoestrmg Potatoes and Gla"eJ Carrots and Beets
-]o)ce ()old tem

Brazsed hort Rib of B

4. Leeks , and Potato l'-follssdine-Gray Kun:

Unlled C A.B RlhEye teak lmh Red age teak Satlce and Ttdce-Baked
Potato km -.1Jrk .1tller
PaLma moked BeejTenJerlom 11th liar eradl h'(Jlazed Potatoes and
pmach Jo. chlln 'phchal
BASS
broccoli
e.cgpl mt

endive

po tar .

elm"h Ike he. r

bru eI prout

morel
mu,hroom,

ratatuull ie

celet) mot

r<trsm~

red cabbage
plll.lch

e Lamie

po tatoc

tomato~

BEEF

fennel

Many of Ihese combinations are claSSICS these are rndlcated In boldface

260

typ

eE EF BRISKET
beetS

cJbbag e

parsnips
pasta

potatoes
sauerkraut

SfEF SHANKS
l'0le nta

BRAINS

potatoes, especially
mashed and roasted

tomatoes

watercress

carrots

potatoes

omons
parsmps

potatoes. especially

potatoes

tomatoes

CAVIAR
blmi

egg~, hard-bOIled

sour cream

bread, dark
Champagne

lemon
onions, raw

rice
salad

BUFFALO
cabbage

CAPON
celer\'. pureed
cher"nuts. pureed
mushrooms

pureed
stuffing

CATFISH
cole slaw
hush puppie-

vodka

261

CHICKEN
artichoke hea rts
asparagus
beans, {ava
beans, gree n
beans, lima
broccoli
brussels sprou ts
carrotS

celery root
crayfish
dumplings
egg noodles
eggplant
mushrooms
onion s
orzo

parsnips
peas
potatoes
rice
spinach
turnips
wild rice
zucchini

COD
escarole
kale

potatoes
tomatoes

carrot"
ool\1n..,

potatoe"

pea cr en

radicchio

apple
apnc It
barIe}
beam. fa\3

ch rnut
corn
enJ,,,e
e ar Ie

potatoc

rhublTb
nee
rut, b 19a

beans. \\ hlte. pureeJ

be k cho~
broccoli
brussel pr ut

fig

~allcrkr.IU[

beans, green
broccolI
eggplant

CORNED BEEF
beets
cabbage

turnip,

CRAB
raragll
cab age

.1

CRAYFISH
wle la\\

DUCK

bulgur

cahba e
cabbage. reu
carr t
c I ry
c lery r t

green
gnt
lenni
mu broom
par nip
pa I n fruit
pears
pe
polcot

allion p mc h
pact:lc

pmach
IUd

h. buttt:rnu[

"eet potatoe
,Ill !turnip, e
wild ri e

FiSH
~rrichokes
~sp3raguS

beans, (3\'a
broccoli
cabbage
cepes

FISH, WHITE
cole slaw
parsnips

ham
potatoes

sausage
toast

chips
coleslaw
cucumbers
endive
fennel
leeks

pasta
ratatouille
nce
spinach

potatoes

sorrel

grapes
lentils

toast

FOIEGRAS
cepes
compote

FROGS'LEGS
celery root

mushrooms

GAME
apples
cabbage
cabbage, red
celery fOut, pureed
chestnuts, especially
pureed

rears
rotatoes
sweet rotames
tlIrn i r s

grapes
hommy
lentib
parsnip:'

GOOSE
arrles

brussels srrouts

chestnuts, esrecially
rurceJ

sauerkraut
wild rice

cabhage, red

M ,

'

263

GOULASH
noodles

rice

spaetzle

GUINEA HEN
apples
brussels sprouts
cabbage

carrots
lentils
potatoes

risotto
sausage

HALIBUT
beans, green
broccoli

cabbage
eggplant

potatoes
spinach

HAM
apples
apricots
beans
biscuits
cabbage
carrot
chestnut

corn pudding
gnocchi
lentils
peas, especially pureed
potatoes, e,pecially
creamed or pureed

sauerkraut
spinach, especially
pureed
spoon bread
sweet potatoes
turnips

HARE
che tnU
cranberne

porCini

squash

leek

potatoes

mushr m
noodle

pota toes

aioli

bean , flageol ts/white

apnco
artlch k

beans, green
beans, white

bru eI pruu
bulgur
c rr ( ,c pe I \I~

aspara

brocc )It

HERRING
apple
cabbage

KIDNEYS
cepes

coleslaw

al J

LAMB AND MUTTON

r am d

MACKEREL
apples
eggplant

OXTAILS
noodles
onions

gooseberries

potatoes

nee

parsnips
potatoes

OYSTERS, FRIED
coleslaw

potatoes

OYSTERS, RAW
ale, beer, or stout
bread. dark (e .g .
pumpernickel, r)e,
wheat)

wine, white and dry

toa t

PARTRIDGE
endl\e
fritters
green
pasta

PHEASANT
apples
brusse prout

cabbage
cabbage. red
carr
celery root. especially
pureed
celery
c:batnu
tall
~

[Ole gras

rapp\e

lent

nce
u rkr ut

gn

h mm
lentil
muhrooms
noodl
omons
orzo

parsmps
peas
polen
pota

pumpkm
uerkr ut
u h, peCI II l-u'
(ernut
turnIp

PORK
apples

beans, fava
beans, hma
broad beans
brusse ls sprouts
cabbage

cabbage, red

cepes
ch estnuts, espec ially
pureed

q UInces
n ce
salad

lentils

sauerkraut

pears
po tatoes, especia lly
mash ed

sn ow peas
sweet potatoes
turnips

e ndive
h o miny, espec ia llv fried
p,)tatoe,
nee
alad
'dllerkrdllt

spinach
squa<;h , especiall\,
mash ed
.
wa terc ress

PORK CHOPS
apples
J-.eans, e peCla ll y pinto
and refried
heet'
eaJ-.ha~e, reJ
cole,l<lw

POT ROASTS
e peel Ilh rraJ ed
Jumplm
endl\'
(mon
CaITu

pot toe , C P 1111\

b cd IT P IOcake
lid
In

r,)matoe,
turnip

POULTRY

che tout e peel 11\

pplc

be n f \
bru cI pr ut
Glbb c
uhf! \\ r

pur ed
f, nn I
1

polent.1
P ltatoe
r Hat Utile
poon bre d

rapc~

QUAil
aru ul

hea

pear

gr n

brussc:~ls

IX I ora
pcrtJe

hread
weethread
weer IX rar -.e
hard

ch tn

h,f'OOIllI

RABBIT
bad e\"

" II

e<lbh1ge ",peCta Y re
c<~lef\' roor
.
chestnuts. ",peClally
pureed

RED SNAPPER
broccoli
cabbage

ROASTS
broccoli
brussels sproutS
carrots
celery root

greens
noodles
pasta
potatoes

rice pilaf
spinach
turnips

eggplant
fennel

zucchini

com, especially creamed

grits
onions
parsnips

potatoes
salsify
shallots
turnips

ROAST BEEF
bean. green
brussels sprouts
cabbage

onions
peas
potatoes

turnips, mashed
Yorkshire pudding

cucumber,
eggplant
Jeru~akm arrichoke,
lentils
mushrooms

GOlan,
peas
potatoes
ljumoa
,pinach

SALMON
asparagus
beans, fava
cabbage, red
com
couscous

SAUSAGES
apples
bean,
brus,el, ~rrout'
cabbge
cabbage, red
Cllul1f1o\\er
cdery

che,tout
fennel
leeks
lenni,
union,
rea,
polema

pmaroe,;, e,peclally
mashed
nee
sauerkraut
[Omatoe" e'rectally
fried

69

SCALLOPS

radicchio
rice

escarole
kale
potatoes. especially
mashed

SEA BASS

fennel

beans. black. fava. and

white

watercres<,

potatoes. especially new

SHANKS
rice
root vegetahles. e~pe
clally pureed

noodles
.
polenta
potatoes. espeCIally
mashed or wasted

SHELLFISH
fennel

pea

rhuharb

01 1.1\\
lee
noodle

P t, toes
flee
~ uerkraut
tomat Ie

grdin~

SHORT RIBS
bean pureed
beer
broccoli
bru I prout
cabbage

pa r

pc

SHRIMP
gram
pasta

pea greeru

n e

radlCchl

alad

eggplnr

weer pc. t we

SKATE
bean. e peclally whne

SMOKED SALMON
bhnJ

rye

br

L)dia Shire and Chef de Cui ine Daniele Bali.lni

PlGNOLl

B",wn . Massac htl ,~tt\

h h I' ~ menu , we didn't look a t a r artlCular regio n of Italy so much a~ We

do thing~ that were bo th s~asonal and based on traditional fooJ,
served during the winter in Italy, U smg claSS IC m gredlents more than actual
recir es , we came up With our own dishes and mterpretatlons of them that
were roo ted 10 tradition-WIth a little tWist ,
The Antlra,to Giuliano was a combination of abo ut a dozen plat e, 0 f
all sorts of marinated vegetables and calamari-typical Venetian gnlled
seafood and marinated vegetable ',
i 'ext, we
en'ed a mini-pancttonc (Italian Christmas brioche bread)
filled With cl po t ItO ' o ur laced with oxtail and beef marrow. The soft and nCh
marnm JU t melt J mto the our and ',1\ e added richness to the soup, as the
po t.l roe' \\ere Jll t a de H ,md imrle ha e. It's \ ery Italian to serve douhle
't.lrche It~e th bre.ld mJ p )[,10 here. In faLt, a lot of the rasta course, In
It,ll -e peCll1l 10 Tu m}-fcature I )lIhle tcHches like rasta with chickpea or hean ( r I nul. That' \ eI) urnm In, a wally .
W I'

vv It t
tned to

hI , hac ala r air od, I \\ hlpred With pl)tatoe , the way

the Fren h d
Rut 10 dll
hilled md heed It pclper-thm,
I , nd r. it[ Hth 1 he t lad md heer \ lOaigrette. Beet are
11th th
the baccala.
u 11 h red
til
lind 10 Emtlia-Romagna, "hilI..' traeI I (h
rhl I p
ut IOto hee _ The ea urchm
th It It n 10
well a what' local and
orm II

pn tm tr m

10

r \1."0,''''''':

hlO

COllSIO

the fl h m t c mmon
r red
pper The Ide was to p Ir th t With
SPI(:Y.
rd frul r J t that th 're
preserved 10 mustaro
and th m tard nut re W
lance With the bran
t

y . . . . . ,. . .

h were stuffed
ltk

1m the

,wet the dish a sort of re~al ~ouch., ~is dish keeps to our theme of

":e
whole
us~ thoee

pe

animal, because In hIgh CUISine a lot of the time we tend to

lower-caste cuts, which actually have a lot of flavor. For the
d' _ did a classic rabbit jus with port and !oie gras melted in at the end.
sauce. served it with some fried polenta.
I tfUnk
priest's
typically served in Italy right
Lent. They're litde pastry dough tied In the form of a knot or a noose
before
fried. The Italians call them "priest's stranglers" because typically in Italy,
and urch is known to eat very well, so there's always a bit of a sarcasm and
the ch
coward the fact that people of the cloth are supposedly living a life
resenanen'existenee, and yet they're known as having the best meals and the
ci hU:";rau,d palates. In Italy, there are a number of dishes like that
~ san;IIItically to the Oturch. We warated to pair the pastry with a
which and rich flOzen mousse, which serves as something to dip the hot fried
intO- I believe we served it with a little blackberry sauce.
VIe did a
work on this menu, preparing it for more than 100 guests.
But they told US that it was one " the better Ouaine dinners that they'd had.

::::Y

strangle~e,

Ioc:"

La Coat,&ie de Ia

a..i. des R6tiueun

Bamia. de Bolton
February 5, 1995

o 7d . . Mra,uw ~ in RoeI,_ BteGd

III 8 lUI, -r.. Vi&M MbiI, Marsala Supewriot-!

-.'_)MA_
1992

a.99J.'

. painter

cue 0 well known for their

llOlC

eristiC ,tyles that e,'en the occasion-

(harae r

..eum-goer can iJentify a Picasso or a

aI tu ll.

en
.-

Mondrian. imilarly, certain writers, such as

the poet e.e. cummings or the novelist John

Irving. have unique style which dl tingui-h

their writing from that of other writer. But

do chef have recogni:able 19nature t 'le

of their own?
MIt would

ten food crm

be imere ting

to

hlmd 01 i

and a k them to tel te the

cl ten leadmg chef: t

ee it the'

idermfv the chef." y Daniel BouluJ.

I

the

c uld? "Ye . I

c:

think so, if th e dishes were ones they'd tasted before," he says. "The CfltlCS
would have to know the traditional dish es of th e chefs."
Boulud cites as examples his own dishes of scallops, pea soup, anu tuna
tartare with radish and curry as ones that would likely be recognIzable to
experienced criticS as his and his alone. "And they'd know Jean-Georges
Vongerichten's shrimp in carrot juice at Jo jo, or Gray Kunz's braised short nbs
at Lespinasse. In order to recognize the dish , it would h ave to be a very dIstinct dish-not a complex dish with a lot of fried stuff on top. Sometimes the
most memorable dishes are the simplest.
"I believe you can recognize the subtle nuances in other chefs' COoking.
Some cook with more acidity, others with more saltiness, and others with
more sweetness. You get to know these styles after a while," says Boulud.
Jasper White also belIeves that cntics could pass the test. "But I think
you'd have to let themee the dishes, because I thmk the look of the plate
has somethmg to do with rer onal style as well," he says. "In my own per onal
style. I like food to ta~te great, and I like textures. The entire focus is nn ta~te
and textures, not on looks. The look that I want happens naturally. I don't
want fooJ to look artihciall . beautlful; I want It to look like it tastes good.
That'., my pomt of view. Ho\\ loe' It look ltke it tastes good? It has little
'peck ' of repper and h rped herb 1< nd kinLI of ,I rustic st') Ie to it. It's ,omethmg rh t I k like the \\ holl f, U' \\ a In Ikmg s Hnething that taste, real-

Iv good.

What Distinguishes a Chef's Style?

Thr ugh the myriad

dcu,lOn
.I
chef

mak '. mcluJm th

related t the c( mr Itt n of tla\fH~ and dl he~ and
menu a per n 1 p) Ie e .. oh e reflectmg I chef' particular romt of VICW.
My c s ne S not nte ect a
t
1 rk Mill r dl tillgUI he between two promlore so sat sty ng em a s
nent h >1 He \, "J 1I t a th re ar \\, flter \\ ho
ess
u e w rd \ cry cr 1tl\ I~ nd re rna ter of lanes
U ee. nd ther \\,Tlt r \\'h are hetter at tellLO 1 t DJnMlIlns
fie , I thmk there re hef who are rna ter of th
Ian uage f fla\ r nd ther chef: \\, ho c n tell 're t
t fie .
"I \\, )Old y that the te hmcal pe pie. th n
\\, h) tm e ~ r dr mati ,are rnetlme the one who under land the\\' r
an d the u
f the w r Th c h e f w h t h 10k hout m nu and Irf) m
ItI n
re m re mtere ted 10 the lOt rpl y betw n the \\, r th
erall feelm f
t f) r. th r th n IU t th
t)
h
nd th
r ul h r
u f rm t I nd m nm
t
m
n
I

"C('rt.11!1 chef, h,we a

"Ie' kremiah [Tower].
e H" (\ ' .
r
[\Xlater~).
Joachim
.1, IILI'
. ~ I -hal) Charlie Trotter["pIL'
_
- " II have a lot at personal
[hey c 1 .
"
their
tood.
Sometlmes
a
,(ye
I In
c"I11.' ( \\'ho has a lot of style IS seen
" m')re unportant chef.
as a '
L
[,eca u"-e he does dishes that have
a t1 air. Per~onallv,. I would rather
food. He
eat RI'ck Bayless's
.
understands and can interpret the culture, in a way, through the technique-and he also creates something in his own right. Rick creates
Mexican meals, and hl~ restaurant is a reflecnon of Mexican hospitality and
the way he thl!1ks about life-his artwork is in the room. He represents to
me an mtegnty in food."
As for Bayless, he agrees that a chef's cUisine tastes of more than its raw
IOgredients. "Fla\'or, commltment--customer ta~te all of thi~ in the food,"
says Barless. "They're tasting the fact the t I pent year- 10 Mexico learning
from really great cooL how to do all of rhi', and that I Web ahle to pull it
tOgether mto rhe C<lokmg rhat we do here. I thmk rhey ta"re culture and history. basically, 111 dl,hes the r have been refme -whICh I don't mean 10 a
negative 'eme, hut in a good.en,e---o\'er generation. TheH', the ftn-or that
I thmk IS on our plate. here."
o v. hat IS It that (Teate~ a hef' ,t) 1 ? "Chei,' A chef should be free to express
c

hIS

own

cUisine) are a re,ult f rhelr hve'," expl,lln' Cary md,vldualJty

Danko. "And It'.; imponanr fm che to be han t WIth -tdo ... 3rd ~ gnor
themsel\'e~.lf you're h 'ne~t \\ ith your elf, there will be reW, led to you a pilth
in hfe, and cooklO~ happen, to b my mantfe ration of rhb ltfe. I de,crihe a
ryramlJ that repre ent, the heare, mmd. an~l hand of cooktn~. The heart
need, to be the ba)e emotion-then you need the mmd to cancel\ e the JI"h
anti the hand to execute it. It\ that p)T3mlJ that I try to reflect m my food.
and my Coukmg i a dIrect r(,~ltlt oi m~ life.
"That' why It' '0 critical for che , to tTavei , nJ tu ,tud) hiswry, art,
and culture," ay [}emko. "The re~ult i rhi Journey IS ,ometlmC S the le",1n
that hfe i really 0 unple, and that 'Ilnple rhm~'-\O co\)km~. 'Imple tho
vors--can be vcry rewardmg "
Gra) 'un! ,lgree . He en"ourar:e chd ro un 1 r,rand theIr 0\\ n per
nal "food c.onte t" "HO\\ ')ou\ e been e.ltll1r: ,[ home all y ur !tIe Will
::aunt y U In V )ur lIfe
,chef," he 1\ '. "r u'll h,1\<: Ima~e and (eehn!!
ullt tn trom 11
ur experlenc.e ."
1

C harlie Palmer says he tells his young cooks to concentrate on wh~t

I d what they know when they cook. "I tell them not to J'ust ,I
tI1.ey lee an
, ,
'
,U{j a
,
f what I'm doing or Mark MIller s do mg or anyone else IS dOing" h
versLOn 0
'
e
says. "I tell them, It's got to be you. It can't be me."
,
"Developing a personal style h as to do wIth developmg a point of view,"
Jasper White explains. "I think it takes years todevelop that. And it never
really stays quite the same . But I thmk at a certam pom t you know what it IS
and you become yourself."
"There are many different ways to do things ," Danko says. "You need to
go out and see everybody's style, and then look inside yourself and ask, 'What
feels and wor ks best lor me.7'"
Because chefs' cuisines are a
direct result of their experi.
ences, their use of certain ingredients or offering of particular dishes can often
be traced back to ~pecific culinary influences.
After opening her fir t restaurant with partner Susan Feniger, Mary Sue
Milltken admit" "For a few months, we basically just copied things that we'd
done before that we'Ll liked the most. Mostly, they were the more peasanty,
country.,tyle JI he ." FeOiger Lkk "When we first opened, we were dning

Influences on Chefs' Styles

Mark Miller on the Influence of Richard Olney

When we talk ahour my OWIl hCI!!htent-d c,)n I u ne ,thl;: e\ ent or people or chef that have been
mfluence in my hfe-It' pe,)ple ltke RI h rd Olne,. He I not cl chef; he i basically a cook. He's a
pamter. And hb knl)wleclge of CUI'lOe I unl aralleled, e\'t;~n 10 France. He is respected as the mo t knowl
edgeable per I n in ooJ and WIO prub bl) 10 the Eng!! h or Fren h language today. Whenever you men
tlon Richard Olney 10 th~H mJe, he' revered nJ he' re pected- nd thl i amazmg, because hes
Amencan and come, trom 10\\a!
Here' a pl:rson \\ ho IOt1uenced J me Beard. He".1 probahly one of the greate t Influences
Altce Water, m) eli, Jeremiah To"cr. enallll) The French Menu Cookbook but more Importan
SImple French Cooking \\hen It c me ut, really did re\olu[\onlze CalifornIa CUI me From Elizllldl
Da\ld through Richard Olne} thr ugh A"ce Water , ~ou can see there' a direct dellCelldenct
phil ph).

The French Menu Cookbook-I thlllk we cooked everythmg m that book at (lj.~ ft.~',~
)OU kno" "hat' Thc publIc "ked e\cq 109 Ie dl h, whether It w the
kI
The f, d It elf reflect a certam plflted ment Itt It the hoiftcstY
nted It" a c mm L ut d the 19605, when people _nrl'td
"n "

nJ their wn lxxlie and their wn n

ron!men

,t (lmtlt Qt duck, pot-au-fell, lamb stews-all that kind 0 f stu.

ff Th at
C'
tluenced a lot by rhe restaurant where we met [Le Perroquet tn
,
' 111
l
\\ ...
..
ChIC,l~c1J"
'
,
\\'hile Hubert Keller can ImmedIately point to two dishes he learned
to serve to this day (an onion t art, an d
to hI~',
t'I'r't J,)b which he cont111ues
"
. ' as tenine with "toasted bnoche), he belIeves that young chefs sh ou ld jiJ1C gr
n't \\'a,'re their time 111 top restaurant kitchens trying to get the resta urant 's
, . "It's more important to understand their message ' thel'r ph'lI osorecIl'e;.
hI'," he say, "You want to try to understand the underlying concept and
r , '-ation that makes the restaurant successfuL Because if it's successful )
oraan1..
rh:re's somethmg behind it-and It's not likely to be simply a recipe for fish
~ l. .......lU lL ,

sauce. "
Keller crechts his time cooking at L'Auberge de I'Ill in France as improvin" his techmque and teaching him the details of execution. "And the time I
5 :nt in the south of France with [French chefs Roger] Verge and Dacquesl
r
, Alsaee, it folMaXImIn
was a rea I eye-opener, " he says. "H'
aV111g grown up 111
lowed me more, and I was more receptive to It. In the south of France, we
cooked WIth o\t\'e oil and basil, which we'd never used at L'Auberge."
(JoachIm SplIChal IS another Maxlmm alumnus who CUlsme has the image of he who made it.

cites the French chef as the _ingle per m who' had the

-Charles Barner

Hi food ha, uch an 111ten it) nd u h a ImpltCity. 111e perfection of it is unparalleled. The meals
I've had at Richard' hOll e were meal that are memorahle f ecau,e YllU cnuld not maximize the taste or
the dIsh <lny more. A gnlleJ lam \\ lth Prm en ~I herb, a p. ~ta WIth orre\, a salad with rocket flowers
In It, 'orne chee,es, d grt:ar old Bard
ux, m white Rurgundle, . \)Ine fig~-I remember the meal like
it I'.a \e terJay, and It \\a t\\cnt) ~ear' ago. It \a~ tho~e t1a\or .
What Rich mJ Olne\ dlJ wa look at French cUl,me 111 the c unt1)'~ide and say, "It isn't just this French
classIC cui me eXI ting 111 re tdurant.'! j rt:all\ the
I' of It, underneath it, is thi" great spirited food and the
unple food that came from mgredlent; that ere pure, 'uong ingredient ." The analogy would be that he
brou"ht about Dhf rnla CUl5me through h~ mterpretanon of regIOnal, SImple foods with strong tlavorsInth lad, an empwi on her '\ Ithout that, there probably \\ould not have heen California cuisine.
RIChard Olne) lone of tho e 0e11lU e who really changed the way French people think about
their I'.n toad, taught Ameri<.:an ab lit food nd created what we thrnk of as modem food. I would say
Jam Beard I the founder i regIOnal Amen ~111 food. but certainly not modem American food. Olney,
re th n n}lxxl~ el e. ~ the per n mo t re pon iHe for changing .l h)t of what we eat today--evervth

fr m Altee and Jeremiah to Call~ rnid Plz:a Kitchen.

WIth RI hard, the ripple at hi mfluen eon even'one from leadmg chef to bread baker to W111;
t
ry f r. Th e pe pIe re at the top cf their c. reer and then underneath It all. there
lit. And that' RIChard Oloe,.

most mfluence on hb style. "H.e w,,, Very

Mediterranean m his use of uitve oil lInd
fresh h erbs," Splich al remember .)
O penmg the re taurant Cui tnt dt
Solei! m Brazil for Roger VergE, while
serving to expand his cUisine in n\!\V
directions, was , Keller says, a little Itke
cooking m the south of France . "Again
we were cooking with olive Oil, garhc'
omons, and tomatoes," Keller recall '
"And cilantro, which we used there, had
never been used m an y of the French
three-stars. I found myse lf PUtting
coconut into fish stew, and u 109 Cor iander. Ju~t tastmg all the local Ji,hes, plu,
a cla" 1 wllk in Bra:ili:1I1 cuisme while

,.

hving there, wa a real edUCatllm of 01) eye ,1Od pabte."

Rick Bayle, recall, that he taught co kmg da~,es in his early twenties
Junng graduate, hool at the Unlver Ity 0 , 1lchlgan. "~1y whole \\" Ir\J wal
ac.1demlc, <lOd becau e I pored over cookbo k , 1 fanclcll th.lt I knew ( 1,lt
about cookmg," a Ba -Ie . ": meone on e IIl1 to me, 'I you travel with
311
knmded e u h we 10 }our he, 1, you'll probe hly hnng hac.k Imo t
nothing. But If U
\\ Ith) Ie n I te, th n you'll probahly bnng back
mountam fin rm tI n.' I rem mhere th t the following year \\hen I \\
able to take IX \\eek nJ go [
I ','lot )U t [U Iy food, and I took that

me

ad\lce \\Ith me \\ hen I \\ ent,

" I t at tim , I e th 10 Ill) f lIow chet \\ hen they travel to
1exI o--e pe lalh the ne \\ h ) \ nt to Ie m I little bIt d~( ut 11cXIC nih\ onng and ) rth to 10 rpor.lte lOt their \\ n \ e IOn f \\ hate\ er CUI tOe
[he\ 're \ rkm 10, r th Ir )\\ n CUI me- nd the) gt) with [h Ir mind all
full 01 10 rm Itl n, nJ th 're I km. ~ ran} (hm that the\ l: n kmd I lip
10 bet\\een the u
k 0 m~ rm HI nth t th ) alread) ha\l~.
trel\u nth I
thmk th t th \ ml
II 0 the bl~ tuff, th re II ood ruff, \\ h n the dv
th t.
. "There \\ere a number 01 time th t I \\a tra\elmg through. 1 I~

domg re earch f r our fIr t book th It I \\()uld JU ( top be

I \\ I JU t httm e\ e f}t h In mto m~ f ramc\\ork I \\oulJ
'
under tand nqhln
1
g alx ut \\ h at thl pc n I reall) dolO
t 1\\ l[ch. nd I'm JU t g )lng tI (a ( and I'm
In to wnt
then I'm In t) m Ie thl dl h, JU t thl w
fl ure ut \\h th per n \\

d )In

J(

th thin t

rm

use I r (11t:eJ th [
to Ol) I1 'I J n't

But 1m)
t
It II

"0

m uO(l11
t:1'1

' \\"lS the way Bayless managed to learn so much about M'
eXlcan CUI-,
rl11' <
"rhe real cuisine of Mexico is not a cuisine of restaurants and chefs"
' ' 0 f th e women who have b
, . B. Iess, "I t 's rea II y t h e CUISine
,'Ineue'
' t h' e
<1}
een In
Jrg
t' r centuries doing this stuff. There's a name for them-the'
k'tch
,
y re caIIed
en 0
I major
.' de'J, and they re the holders of
the whole tradition ' Unfo rt unate Iy,
[he
,
'h
e male chefs, when they go Into that role in the hotels go 'I
any 0 f th
'
n WIt
III
,J
that if they cook the cuisine of the majordes they're cookl' "I
his attltUU e
, n g glr
[ d' S they want to show that they know what 'real' cuisine is all ab t
foo, 0
au .
unfortunately, I think that they generally miss the mark, because they're not
'II' to onen their eyes and say, 'This is it-this is what tastes good this is
\1'1 mg
t
'
. should be, I understand what the cuisine is all about and I'm going
what It
,
"
, k with it instead of trymg to somehow dommate the scene.'
ro"m"Similarly, I like [French] CUlsme
." bourgeozse much better than I do most
of the haure cuisine, In fact, when I eat haute cuisine that is really satisfying to
me in France, I always think that it tastes very much like good home cook, It satisfies in that same way," Bayless says.
mg

How Have Their Cuisines Evolved?

Bayless describes his

current food as being

"much more confident" than the food he cooked when he first opened
Frontera Grill. "Now I'm much more willing to really listen to my own heart
and do what I know 15 nght. ThiS is in spite of the fact that With every issue
of Art Culmaire I get, I go into. ome immediate panic or derre~"ion because I
can't cook food that looks like that. I Llsu,tlly can come out of it very quickly
and say, 'You km)w, my fOcKl IS the food that really ati"ftes me.' And I'm
thankful that other people react to It ,1ml can relate to it and seem to really
Itke it, too-.. . . that it doesn't have tn be all that fancy, fussy stuff to be good.
"I think the tnmg flavl1r profile elf, Jih makes it satisfying from the
fim bite tll the last. In ~ lexican tll(lLI, it \ much mure c)f a homogeneity of flavor; you're looking for thl~ rlmnd, nch tlavor [hat :-peaks of one thing, and it'
the name of that dish. whatever it \\ ,luld ~e. I think when you eat one of our
di,he' from t-eginntng to end now. you ",til notice thelt all of the components
on the rlate are m harmom, that we\'e got the right accompantments, the
rtght g3rnt~ht.' that e\'erything ]u ... t ,eem~ rh~ht ahout it. That has always
been purred on by my cunfidence in the ti1Ct that when you get everything
taken 3way from a cit' h anLI ,nil have .I perfect dish-then it's fight," says
Bayle . "I"t not d matter ot how much Cdn \'l)Ll put on, Lput h ow Glue h ca n
~ou take I\\a)' from It that h the 4 ue ,ulln YOU should always ask."
orman Van Aken de,cribe hi' 0\\ n proce's of e\"oluno n a<; a chef: "I
nl JtJ .... hat I w told I \\.1' ,uppo eel to d,).l a chef, unnl there was a ce:t m Itttle rart uf me that aid,' '0 \\ a~ am I g LOg 111 do that!' That \\,,1, 197 I,
295

We cont nue lettmg the mgredients speak for

t emse ves-and contmue fighting our cooks and
chefs not to try to complicate them

__ emlah

Tower

and I'd been cooking since 1971 . Then I neeued

.1
t
educate myself. So the biggest change has b
()
.
een th
process 0 f se If-e d ucatlon and growing up and I
e
so much more about food."
earntng

Even A lice Waters admits th at wh en she first opened Chez P .

.
"
a n ~l
197 1, "I didn't know an ything about seasonaltty. I really thought th
n
e season
for green beans lasted from the spring to the fall ! But there's a mom
ent for
those, and everything else-and you have to catch it. And you have t
"
".
"
"
0 reSiSt
using those Ingredtents at other times of the year.
Waters believes, "We've uncovered a whole range of ingredl"ents, a
whole range of tastes, that we didn't know an ything about twenty-ft""e
, years
ago. That's significant. I think we were ort of working with the prtmary col.
ors when we opened. We had a little fennel-something so exotic as that, at

Mark Miller on the Importance of Pushing

People a} the} 're pu hlng the envelope, but I don't really thmk they are.
I see u turning wa from food and becoming more selective about what
we eat and wh we eat It and wh n we eat It and with whom we eat it.
And oun ch f r n't pu hlng th Ir own palate pa t the point of where

me 'r

ut m t1
Iw
r If ch f re d In en uhf, r themselve to actually undert n what
h uld be dolO f, r the . Or do they alway go to the
n w h t r taur nt thmlun that they h uld create the new hot re taur"dnt, r th new h t d h Or
th JU t w nt to be 10 Art Culi7U1lre? Is
t
1r nl
1 If th are their r I models, If that' what they want

m}

mm
t

mg m America

chefs are

Pan
Thanksglvina

place I

toeerhcr. I

II on that road today. But t Ch

the
ide and do bl dmners and
cookmg

than

turkey an the fi

HI

enq~ms and put them

California. I would

And we rut nastur[ 1

,[edible flll\\'eni] in a salad,
[lul11'
,.
, '
'l[ \\',1" exotiC, But no\\ we
lIld [ I1<
,J
f WI'Id
'en[een kmus
0
hJ,'e ,e'
'I 1olll', and an equal nUlTInlU' lrl
' heirloom tomatoes, and
ber 0 t
, , that I could never have
[urIlI\,'
, ed the shapes and colors
illlag tn
, me for beets, And, of
0,
f 5J
'lll the potatoes-russet
(Our,e, '
and
ones
r, roes
o
tred
a
,were as much as I knew about potatoes back th en, N ow,
wlth yellow fms and ruby crescents and fingerlings ' It's J' us t fantastlc
'
\I'e ell
1 lk
the pOSSibilitieS, To ha\'e watercress back then was exotic, and now we hav~
upting cress and ancho cress and ,tiny little watercress-a whole world of
ta''te-"' I think at Che: Pai1ls::,e we ve learned a lot of things about pu tt'mg
together a menu, but even more in terms of ingredients,"
Gary Danko believes his food at The Ritz-Carlton Dining Room (San
FrancisCO) was much different from the fooJ he served prior to that at
Chateau Souverain in Napa Valley, "And my next restaurant Will again
ret1ect a different ,tyle of food," he qy , "A lot of the principles and technique, Will 'tal', ~uch a~ hO\\ I make my ,tocks or bh fumes. But sav mv next
knchen has fifty burner. and i" a ~ 1en:euec-Ben: of kttchen~-Itke Gray Kun:
has~-then my ,tyle uf cookmg b goin~ to change becall e I'm 1I1 a different
Ie

>

tIln~,

<

ennwnment .

"Say, tor example, I left an Franci co .mel moved

to

'e\\ York. There

would be an additional change a" I went intO d new cit) anJ adopteJ to what
the ,{'ecific~ are-'er\'lng dll1ner I.Her, lookm~ at different pmdllce,
.-\lthough {'eople ',1\' we ha\'e better pwduce m Cahfornta. I think. 'ew York
ha, a whole n~\\' lea!!ue 0 pw\.!u e ~ecau e It ha- Europe a~ it~ market and
uite
Cahfornl3 ha- A,ia. Very little ire h rrodll\..t~ cumes in from A'la--t.l
irankl), Cah~ mid I_ not gom!.! to It:t < n~ citrll" in from any part of the
worIJ-\\ herea I e\\ York gL'[- oran!!\: frmu Spam or clementln~' anJ that
kmd of thm:!. nJ I thmk the ft,h and the ,elecnon of fi-h 1 better m . 'ew

York :01'.1 ha\'e a very different m.ukd ba ket," ~a" Danko.

"It\
E\0 I"In'.:! a ache o\er [he Cl)Ur e 0 a ar~er h a, It' c haII enge ..

ne\er been In e.1 ) proce,"" ,,1\ Patrick l)' nnd\. "You're continually frll~
trated \\Ith wantln.! [0 be more mVt:ntive and more creali\''; and have more
Ide than \OU J . And \llU hlve lit) penod-, tOO, when yuu feel you're in ,\
lern"'le rut. Wh t [' ve 1 arneJ
.
d h
J
>nllu"h
I that after \ u 12 t e rut t!ep t:
~. at the
r nt .... her \ JU t ee I \\ here h
' no \\ .\) l tit, e\.e.,- "uu
)u-r
ere'
,
- kinJ of keer

nJ th n

nd

tip

e 'plodm~

Ollll)t It."

297

' h e"en the most seasoned chefs keep pushtnl:: them I

.
".
eves.
Th at s w Y
.I
enu we tn, a new technique, says Lydia hire. In l'lred l
"\X'lt 1 every m
,
.1
. '
.
('~

hefs like Jean-Louis Pall adm , hire and her chef ' 11 BL
other Iead mg c
.
Ina,
'e
prepared
many
speCialty
foods
from
scratch.
"We'v
Susan Regis, h a\
.
".
e an
beef
and
made
our
own
proSC
IUttO::'
,
Shire
reports
With
.
d
, .
l'rt'Je
dfie our own
"And I recently made a wonderful cot~chmo sausage ,~v lth a recipe 1 got froll)
Lidia Bastianich of Felidia re tau rant m Manhattan ,
"If you stand still, it becomes boring," agrees Joachim Splichal. "And
we are not factory workers-we are artists."

The Chef as Owne

busme~ , It can he difficult

For culmar)' artl t~ whme pasion for c ooktn~

b greater than t~elf passion for runntng a

balance the t\\"l. "It you're a chef without ~ our

own husme ,5, then you can concentrate m\)fC on the cooking , But If you have
your own re~taur(lI1t, then ,ou have to be more of .l C lllaborator," say~ Daniel
Boulud. "I won't let m) bu'me~ or my co km~ go entirely into () ther~' han,b,
I have a lot of pe pie worklll ' wnh me, but I .lIn the epicenter of ,Ill of it."
ann n Van Aken POlllt ut the Itfferencc, in his stylem e becom109 a chef "ner,
op
d t
r"lll d the hef f omeone el,c' re t,mr,lI1r. ".
mu h hI
r re t Unlnt. [At A Mana). I cooked )metime ut
cl
n
f
lpe; It haJ a tran 1 hold on me be au c I \\ n't
the o\\ner nd I "
) mu\:h t ) be orne the owner of the re taurant.
There \\ere urn \\h n It \\ mor ed ,I 'U . Wherea now, It' ltke ~tng
m m) o"n h m , nJ I cd mu h m re m~mahle WIth my fexxl It' more
b Ian ed, l\ er 1I
When u're n t the wn r, ou're gOIng to take the opportuntty
reach he nJ \\ h re )U hould r h)m tim hecau you're hell-bent on
fmdm out
tI all that ou nt t fmd out tn the creattve proc
the "'ner, th re
enatn rt
c Imn
th t com tn that allows
t feel m lr bal nced about everythm ,"
Van Aken.
RI k Sa I
found that
the p
ures
r tauranr own
ershlp tnltlall had an Wlden
able tnflu nc on h
food
"When you put your entue
tnp and
muemtnt

money

tl)

" "When I opened, I wasn't quite sure where

,ell"

B'l\' Ie'"

ng to ha\'e to end up for financial reasons

,
'

lI'ere gO! .

A chef S
'
CUISine sWings on h t G
the dolo Ih "
W a
ray Kunz calls
n e I faclor "GeW
.
nght is wh t '
,
ng every detail
a gives CUIsine its g I
"
says Kunz 'Olh
'
,.
rea ness,
'
erwlse, II s Just good"

\I'e
h I "IS very much commItted to trusting my
h lUg
\\, .
,1 It l
,J instincts about what good food really is. I
' 1 gut an
c
'
,1\' I
I "frer we were open lor SIX or eight months I relaxed int
h'k t1ar "
'
omyown
(Ill
d I knew that ir was something that people could appreciate."
(yle an r aspects 0 f ace
h f'S cUlsme
"
sOh
may Iik e Iy change over tim e. Jeanr e
" 11gerichten clearly moved consciously toward a less formal "
Georges vO
,
CUlsme
t
his
hotel
kItchen
at
the
Lafayette
to
open
his
own
French
b'
f
II,hen he Ie
.
' .
Istro,
'0 "In the beginnmg, the menu was a lot lIke It was at Lafayette, incorpoJOJ' , etables juices. It was a lower-key restaurant, but the same food W
rating \ e g .
. e
h d rhe same cooks, the same walters, but at a more casual price and atmos3
re," he says. "But five years later, the menu IS totally different. There are
h
pe
.
'
d'lents-m
' some cases only threetural flavors, an d far Clel\er
mgre
more na
,.,
. .
'
e"
Vongerichten
descnbes
JO)O s cUIsine today as "VerT loose We
on a r lat .
.,
.
might serve something one way one day, and it might be as much as ten per-

cent off the next day, "

Still, Vongerichten admit~ that he misses the style of cookim~ demanded of a high-end restaurant. "I miss the rrecisene~, of things," he says. "At a
high-end restaurant, the customers expect even more. And the more pressure
you have, the hetter the recipe,." Vnngerichten announced plans to return to
[hIS style of CUIsine with hl~ next re tau rant, scheduled to open In
Manhattan's Lincoln Center area.
Another one of hi, g()al, I hlnfllr1g b. ck '!fand erYlce. "LIke the

19305," he says. "When you're In the kitchen, ,ou have all the e great .,melb,
but the customer doe,n't. I want the ell tamer to he dble to hedr the ~1::le, to
see the fooJ as It \', cut into." He creJIt' <1' m plratlon a dinner at Tatllevent
in Paris, to which hi, parent took hlln f( Ir hi' el~hteenth birthJa). "It was
rery sen'ual," he rememl>ers. "Everyone wa 0 excited before a dl,h drfl\eJ.

I thmk the appetite develop' more \\ hen, ou eat thl w"a)."

VongenLhten ay' he plan, to cr'\'e hal the dhhe~ table, ide at hb next
re taurant. "If we have a luhter aLld n the menu, a tech11lcal cook wtll
cook the lobster, l>Ul It Will be Cut dt the table and to ed With 'pinach," he
says. "AnJ then the people at the next tahl \\ til -.ce the lob ter, or the Juck
be/lng carved. I'm not talkmg ahout h.W\11g t1ambe or putting on .how:'>.
We're )U~t gom~ to hnng aroma~ hack intO the ,!tntng ro m anJ have people
rartlClpate rna re m t he tOO\.l1 expenence.
.
"
, bJla hire de cnbe Blba a .m ede tI Amencan re raurant "where
\\e re free t ) do an} thing we \\ \11t," he. ,"Plgnoh, on the other hand,
It itd\t n re t IUram, penod. And \\ e d )Oft ba,rarJl:e or Amencant:e.
J n t e t pa ta
fir t cour e, 0 W don't ofter I t . one.

A mericans are used to hav ing all. appetize r und all. entree, but Italians tat
three :, maller courses: antipasto , then risotto or pas ta, then a sm<lll entrEe
It's the bes t way in the world to eat- that way, yo u get to try th ree thing,
instead of two!"
Shire adds, "O ur customers are pay ing us to put some interesting flaVor
combinations all. a plate. They want to see things that they can't recreate at
home. "
Hubert Keller agrees. "When customers come into Fleur de Lys, the
.
' Ie dishes canY
are expecting a gasrronomica I expenence
," he says. "Very sImp
he very good, but I believe that if all. average customer can recreate the same
dish at home, then the restaurant and the chef have missed something. Anu
I know that there are many chefs who don't agree with me a ll. this. But I
think we should go heyond what a home cook would do. After all , thb ISOUr
profession. "
Vongerichten recount:, how Picds:,o once gave a demonstration on h olV
to make a lot of money in a short tllne: "He slapped some paint on a canvas
and signed hIS name to It, and claimed he'd created five million dollars In
minute,. 'It\ hulbhlt, but It selh,' wa~ his Clll11ment," says Vongerichten. "In
fooJ, that 1I ed to h,lpl'en more ilnll I11pre-hut thcre\ no hullshit (\nym\lf~.
You can't get ,1\\,1' \\ nh It. People n:c( !.!ni:e n,l\'or and freshness now."
Often evolutIon re ult tn lI11pllflc.ltlon. Je,m-Louis PalLldll1 hdieve
that LU ramer \\{ n't be ble to" md the td te " un the plate If there ,ITe wo
mam mgredlent
"l}

Pallidm. "I
'onn m

n \\dm..!

3}",

em, I'm tr}tng to he a~ simple as p(lssihie,"

n'l Itk to put more lh, n three elements on ,I plate."

III
ken gre . "E\ I') )eaT, I know [hat it'~ going to ~e a

h, Lk md fmull1g ()ut what' es~el1tial,"

Irma} be Impler, or \\ h It \\ e feel to be [Tuer. And [h,lt's [he lIlt!-

further tnprmg WIV

he

It."

nd peclmg

m. te goal."

Global Cuisine

CUI me I con t<mtly bemg haped and re haped by

ever-chan m

3\ ailabl!'t)

If

int1uence : customer demanJ , the

pi
di mtegratmg," oh rv

mgredlent. chef' expenmentatlon, even meJla

"Unt: rtunatcl}, the c )kmg of a lot of ountne

Altce Water. "It' hard to get thl e really Imple and perfeet dl he

3(1)ffi

E\erybody' embr Idenng all kmd (f thmg II over."

Michael R mano ha observed that all the MlChelm three- taT r t
rant seem to ha\e bee( me \ery Fr n h
ven tho 10 Italy "It' prlltl,llllY
all p rt f th dnve f, r Mlch 1m ta 'he peculate J hann Kille n
n {tee that 'the m re IMI helm) t r
t ur nt h
MI hellO
h UI m
Fr n hlfled It I It'
m fit nd Jud ev
urant accolrdtn I

difficult to find food th '

of Italian food has be at s pure. A lot
.h
come muddled
Wlt no dear flavors , n 0 clOCUS. There'
are
too
many
acrobatics too
h
.
.
h
,muc
Jumpmg t rough hoops."
Rick Bayless says he "b'
nst1es" at
the new-style cuisine in M .
"Th
eXlCO .
. er~ are ~ few people who are doing
a fme Job wlth it. But most of them are
hotel-trained chefs, and when they
start doing this modem version of
L __'"
it comes out looking like bad nOlltleUe cuisine-there's !ittl
~~~
e
. bias cI stUff all over the plate. And sometimes they try to tone it down.
onY theY do that, I feel like they're taking out the guts of the dish and all
~ ldt trith is a kind of hollow shell," he say .
~ "Mexican CUISine is a robust and very elegant cuisine, but it' elegant in
. silllf'licitYo itS naturalness, its pontaneous feel. When you tan making a
~ with uteen garnishes and little things dropped around the plate, it' not
~.. It'I m'
the point of Mexican food, in my book," says Bayless.
'1bar'. why my food' much more immediate and much more traightfor.-. We work With big. bold trek . We don't put too much food on the
pt.. ~ I
1
at IDtdfera ,th our
' abihty to really appreci
.,
your palate can get confused really quickly with

th...
noIIeI Danael

Boulud. "The French

food. I
have been learning about
France to team. and when they
IQPI1li1ticat.ed and refined enough to

nine herbs and tomato coulis. I'm proud of it, and people love It. AnJ I d"n't
think there's an Italian who could make it as good !
"And I love risotto, and like to offer it to my customers. Risotto is won_
derful for providing a stage for th~ flavor of ingredients, wh ich can give m~ny
dimensions to it. For example, I 11 serve a lobster n sotto made with lob,ter
stock, or a squab risotto made with squab broth, or a sh ellfish risotto made
with the juice and water of shellfish. I like to 'French-ize' my risotto.
"One of the last risottoS I came up with was inspired by my vacation in
the Pays Basque [near the border of Spain and France) last year: a seafood
risotto with a puree of pasilla peppers and a saffron broth," says Boulud. "\
love this dish very much-it's like French Tex-Mex."
Some chefs are well respected for their ability to merge a wide array of
culinary ingredients and techmques. Lvdia Shire describes her cuisine as having both eclectic (involVIng a mixmg and matching of courses with varying
influence,,) and fusion (representing a melding of the ingredients and/or
techniques of twO or more regions) elements. She h astens to add, "But with
re~traint~ I won't do thin gs just for shock value; there are certain things we'd
never, e\'er do." he cite" a~ an example a fi,h dish served with couscous and
wa'abi, wluchhe was once t, ken ab,\Ck to see on another restaurant's menu.

Norman Van Aken on New World Cuisine

' .,.' .

One of the wrche that I carry l one eh It we t Illuminate the type of cooking that ha nllt heenu
well known yet in mo t of . 10rt h Ameri 1, \\, hlch I the regl mal CUI me of the Caribbean, Central Jnd
outh Amenca, and the mother ~ ountne that affected the cUI me that were brought to those areas,
such as Africa and to a lesser degree Fran e nd ltal~, of course 0 even though I might read ahout or
taste a great di h m ew York made hy Gra~ Kunz ur meone hke that, I have to tell myself, "That'
not my tor\. M~ _to~ i a regional to~ that need to echo the Immigrant pattern that are south
Flonda." 0 that' a ver) Important fact r behmd why I cOOk what I'm gomg to cook.
People a k if the e\\, World CUI me I c k means the arne thmg to me as It doe to other ch
Well , I don't thmk rock and roll meant the me thang to Jerry Lee Lewl a It did to Elvi
However, there' a certain reference that' hared, a parenthetical opportUnity to express a cerratn
of probability. And I \\'elcome the fact that there are different deftnltlons that would be e paused by
\an Oll people \\'ho \\- ould ay that they're practlt10ners of ew World CUISine
I comed the term fusum CUISine
a response
the metdmg together of dISparate cutll\l
alth u h I \\, a not much Initially talkang about tnarrymg French and Thai, for example. I
mg alx ut marrymg rustiC CUlSme. With I
and
cu ine with I intc~
It~ That t me I what I
desc
when I
But
ery
umbret And t\IAI)Il o...~

r",
(j~"

Kun: :,a),s,
"A
, takin
' good" friend told me, 'What yo'
u re d'
Otng IS
.
edge oft ethmc cooking. I knew what he was t '
g
[he rL1U~,
rytng to say. I do see
h
b1
, ' incorporating flavors and fragrances, but in a
11lpe It Jo
,
'
,
very su t e way.
, . 'uccessfully has a lot to do with finesse. You want to
k
Dcllng sO :,
,
ma e sure that
xt I, still approachable and not go overboard an d sh oc k cus[he conte.
[Om ero-r." keep cuisine f
rom '
gOing " overboard ," Jean-Georges Yo ngenc
'h ten
jO

, . there should be boundaries in food. "The 1990s should not b

I
believe,,,
"
e a me t'ng pot, " he asserts. Now everyone has ginger In their kitchen . I n twenty
I
I don't want to see 'universal cooking.' I think people should go back
years, ' rJotS and keep tra d'mons
, gOing.
' Dal11e
' I Bou Iud is from Lyons and
[0 thelr l
,
"
" .
,you
.
'II
find thtngs ltke tnpe and pork WIth lentils, whICh he grew up 'th
can ,tl
WI ,
on hiS menu.
. .
." wdl ne\'er put star al11se In my choucroute. If someone else finds something new to do with cabbage, great. But it hurts me to see things on a menu
like 'Thai Bouillabaisse.' They should call it a "Thai Fish Soup' instead of
ruining something great."
Norman Van Aken believes that It's important for chefs in various parts
of [he world to honor thelf regional bounty. "As much as possible, they

to

VancoU\'er to New York to FlonJa, becau e of chef~ tclkmg dl~parate cuismes and welding them

together in hopefully a harmnmoll' we ldmg.

New Wllrld cui5ine wa~ the term thelt I came lip with to de cnbe what takes place in southeastern
Florida and to a degree will hegm t tclh piale 111 other plelce, ,I, well. much the same way as the
Southwestern food movement t()ok .mJ marned clas'lcal technique an,l methodology WIth Mexican
produce and, e\'entually, Mexican methoJulog\ or pre-Columhtan Il1Lltan methudlliogy. With us here in
iouth Florida, the varil)u~ mtluence are Latll10 ro < great degree, with all the different paWLS of the
Canhhean offering all thee \\ ild tWI t anJ rum'.
If you go into a market or a lltrle gr ery rore or cl lIttle cafe, whether It' Jamaican or NIcaraguan
or Argentinian or Cuban or Bohemian, }ou'll ee the ~lifterence m the cui~mes, It'll take a while w
understand the Jifference~, but a )Oll pend more and more time ~ou'll bl?gm tl) lInderqand the nuances
among them. Bemg from none of the e traditions, [ don't ha\'e .. ny clllegiance to a particular (ui~ine. It
allow me the freedom to go in and \ bit n,1 put my own quilt together.
.
orne of my coworker' < re na([ve of the~e place;,; they respond to my experimentation by hetng
SOrt of tanl d
dh
If I
h
"How 1oe, ",'ur gr,1n,1e an appy and, metime a little .hy ahout It.
'.ly to t em,
L
1
'
m ther work
h th'
,
h
h ouoh of thl? ianguJge
h'
Wit
I particular tuberr' or wh<ltever, once I \'c gotten t roug en
,~
,
arner, I think they feel a part of It-It make them teel harp\,. It tn.lke, me feel harrY, bt.C(}u,e It (crtalnl~ I IU t
h'
I" d 1 the,e place, themh
as Important to me a reading h k by peorle \\ho have per dP' I\e \I

03

should glorify and celebrate the cuisines of their regions, 10 that as We t

from city to city, and suburb to suburb, and little hick town to little ~Vtl
lelt
town, that th ere StloIl IS a great reglona1 opportunlty.
In a graduation speech Van Aken delivered at Johnson &. Walea
University a few years ago, he says he told students, "Don't go back
Virginia and cook New World cuisine. Don't go home to southern Calif: ~
and do that either. I think what you should do is go back and find out
what your ttongest sense is of the people who are in that community at tha~
0

"

point in time.
"And I don't mean cook 'museum food,'" Van Aken says he emPUllL
sized. "If you're in Dallas now, I think. you should embrace some Vietnam
est
flavors, becau.... there,s a suong VIetname5e community. But I hope that
omer chefs U do what 1did in terms c1 reacting to where I live by reacting
e they lave. lOat would be honoring tt-honoring the ttadition but
...".......~ dwOUllJa cnau
and the IUllUI8l inclination we have III

1O.m

--Chefs' Styles Personified in Their Menus

'ous leading chefs around France created dinners honoring the centenary
Vafl e birth of the renowned gastr~nome Cumonsky. Twelve examples were
of th ed as reflecting the personalities of their creators as follows:
claSS lfi

Femand Point: Classicism

Cfulrles Barrier: Harmonious Simplicity
FrCD1fois Bise: Tradition Revived

Paul Bocuse: Vitality and Generosity

Alain Chapel: Supreme Inventiveness
Michel GuiTard: Subtletie of Taste
Paul Haeberlin: The Strength of Tradition
Louis OwthieT: A Delight for the Eyes

Jacques Pic: A Spread of Independent Creation

Raymond ThuiJier: Epicurean Delight
Troisgros Brothers: Aavors Close to the Land
Roger Vnxe: Exuberant Onginahty

the man who cared for the birds had a garden With herbs like garlic chive
and wild onIOnS, and I truly believe It brought a lot of flavor to them."
The partridges were killed and bled and hung with the guts in as well.
Btcao. cJ all the DOUble he'd gone to making sure the partridges had flavor,
Paimerdidn't
to destroy their taste dunng the cooking proc . "I made
aJIG faa the
which
finished With
de Wznde and herbs that
played on
had been eating, and then, m the traditional
'"'_
th the partridges' blood," says Palmer. The
- ......ltedrare
Ith the sauce, the fmely minced

tJe

cb8l\tClrel

and some caramelized turnips,

ord_1X ..:ull d ha e been too overpowenng,"

perfect."
rechnoloIY m the United

DiODt DOlI'

to

ndant

e
nd

Palmer adIIlliu.

tlJBt s not so much

squid, sham and'"

change it into stull that Plople
would c;ons;1Ir , .Ii".

Peal-

life.

better ones.
hlrN
able Are mere bedll _ -

George Germon and Johanne Killeen

ALFORNO
PT!Jt'idence. Rhode Island

Food'like
. any other 'cultural phenomenon, is a living. thing. It naturally goes through a seamless, a\mOSt
imperceptible evolutIOn. Perhaps there are more chOIces on our present menu-and the choices are co .
tinually being refined and Simplified-but our basic philosophy has the same clarity of vision. Our al n
is acute, aggre ively clean in taste, and our style is grounded in reality. It seems our signature is
plaLtt:rs, not
and in celebratory moun~

c\ear~bo~~

ked in the Pink with Fresh Herbs, Cream,

posta Ba
nd Fife Cheeses
a Bak'd with l'v1tlShrooms, Pancetta, Rapini,
Pasco
c
Cream, and Fit'e Cheeses
Tagliatelle uith ;\1ascarpone and Oven-Cured Pink-

Prosciutto Cotto
Spaghetti tl'ith Tuscan Meat Ragu
,
Pumpkin and potato-FIlled Free-FonTI Lasagna wIth
Black Olit'e Butter
Rolled Mushroom Lasagna with Bechamel, Tomato,
and Parmigzano

Grills, Roa,L, and BrJi~e~ For Ltttle Appetite

Small Plate of Roa ted Seasonal \'egetahl

Pepper-Gnlled ChIcken Pm/lard u ith . 1rxed Greens,
Shat't'd ParmlRIano, Caramel!~ed Onions, and
SpICed Olzw
Tuscan Veal Stett U1th Bwternllt lashed Potatoe
Tuscan Roasted au: age) and Grap s with t 1ashed
Potatoes
Maho"any Otic k Le!! U Hh RIce and 1 dun Salad

GnU, Roa ~, and Bral e-

Gnlled and Roasted \

Entree tllCh lash d

e&gIL

r At Forno Appeme-

POtatoes

(jnued ChICken Breast u Ith Wood-Roast d tuffln"

and itxed (Heens
G <. hICken Breast U1th (mUed Porwb Ito
u. hr
nd R ted Potat

Roasted
'k
- Ie en on a Nest ofVermiee1ti with
' dHalf-Ch
G
M Ixe
reeens
Oven-Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Herbed Crust,
Roasted Potatoes, and Pear Mostarda
Pvot-Roo:ted Beef Fittet with Mashed Potatoes
mtner s Steak
Gritled
IP
D ' Veal Tenderloins with Grilted P
0 enta, an
nppings, and Fennel-Infused Onion
Clam Roast with (HOT!) Spicy Sausage, Endive,
Tomato, and Mashed Potatoes
Gritted Veal Chop with Gremolata-Mashed Potatoes
and Pickled Onions
Grilled Brine-Cured Pork Chops with Mashed
Potatoes and Mixed Greens
Rosemary-Infused Veal Spareribs with Aged
Balsamic Vinegar and Roasted Garlic-Potato
Cake
Fresh Little Compton Tilefish in Aqua Pazza
Fresh Little Compton Cod Roasted in a Caper
~lay()nnaise u'ith Roasted Potatoes

De ert~ (all, except fir~t two, made

to order)

Tirami~lI

Frc)h Fnut ulth Cannoh Cream

Tartufu Gelato u'lth Baby Baci
Oranrre and Fre h Fig Gelato
Lemon Gra1Hta tllth Hazelnut Biscotti
Coffee Granzta u ith WTiupped Cream
Toasted Cocontll lee Cream Sandu'ich
Grand CookIe Finale
Fresh Plum Tart
Fresh Blwcberry Tart
Fwh Blackben)' Tart
'
Black ~tlS ion Flf: and Blueberry Deep-Dish Pie
Fre.h Blu beny e1rLltin
Fre h Plum (,nlClll
Fre h Black Ii SlOn FI" Gmnl1

Jo 'ce Goldl>tein
SQUARE ONE
San FranCISco, California
( 1984- 1996)

Smce the time quare One

opened,
ow a'
deeper understanding of the trad ltlonal
.
.
.
. . our cuisine. came to sh.
cui me . Rather than bemg slmphhed for Amencans, we tned to give them greater authentiCIty. Aho a
ourktlls and our sense of orgam:atlon improved, we were able to take on a little bit more and have ~h
plate'- re a little more complex. But I thmk the key really is that rather than giving customers a
e
ver IOn of the. iedlterranean, we gave them the long-hand-we really tried to give it to them a If
were there. 'V.'e eliminated a lot of mternatlonal thing - and thmgs from other culture as people wanted
know what kind of food we prepared.
with the word "internatlonal" ternfying and bewilden ng them,
not wanting to call It "Californla cUI"me." whatever the hell that b, we became more and
Mediterranean and more and more true to the _ urce. That's m ' tory ... Tl1mght' Ollr laot night ... (July 13, 1
l)

Dail\" pecial
la 15, 19 4

Fedebm U Ith Tuna, Omons, Caper and lit

Fettucane aUa Genotese ulth pmach Pmen\l[
Lemon Rind, Golden Rat Ins. nd Cr am
Gnlled Veal Chop U1th :11 crum and E lam ratm
Pork Scalwpptne tilth 4ar ala \ m ar and Cr m
sened u~th Red 'UI Chard and ( om Fmter
ChIcken Fncas ee U Ith Meatballs
hr
and
Thyme en-oed U Ith Rl e

lmonel Cake tilth (Janache and Rum Huttercrecml

Pu P try trau-berry Tart Ulith iascarpone
he
n
bet erved with Tegole ~ookle
Pineapple lee Cream erved ulth Tegole Cookie

Daily Specials
Weekend of May 17, 1996

ffron Rice u:ith Lobster, Prawns, Clams,

Pae1/LJ-SaJ)'
,
ChIcken Chorizo, Arnchokes, Favas, Peppers,
and TomatoeS
, I Scaloppme ulth Mushrooms, Shallots, and
\eaHa~elnHts, sen'ed WIt'h T1 ag/"zann! U:lt'hAsparagus,
PrOS ClHtto , and Peas
Roast Halibut u'irh an Armenian Sauce of Roasted
Peppers, Roasted Onions, Basil, Allspice, and
Cmen ne , send with Cracked \Vheat Pilaf,
Grilled Eg;;piant, and Sauteed Spinach
Greek Mixed Grill-Lamb In SOIH laki Marmade,
send u,zth T -zatziki, Quail u ith Oregano,
Thyme, GarlIc, and Lemon, VJTapped III
Vine/earl's, arui Loukalllka (Pork at age lmh
Marjoram, Corutncier, range:e [, AllspIce, and
\X'ine) en cd ut!h Rlct' Pilaf tmh Eggplant,
Tonwroc.l, and Pinen!l!s, Spanakopita, and
ZUCChlru tllth Tomaroe and Dzlt

Grilled Fillet of Beef with Red-W'me- Gla ze d Sha [lots

served with Potato
' and '
, and Ce/.e ry Roat G
ratm,
Green Beans with Chives
Grilled Sonoma Squab in a Moroccan Marinade of
Cumm, Cinnamon, Honey, and Sesame Seed,
served u,tth Couscous with Raisins and Orange,
and Carrots and Beets with Orange, Mint, and
Ginger

Grilled Swordfish alla Puttanesca with Tomatoes,

Capers, Olit'es, Garlic, Hot Pepper, and Basil,
sen'ed u'ith Oven-Roasted Potatoes and Broccoli
and Caulzf/oU'er Gratin
Tagltarnu u'lth Asparagus, Mushrooms, Favas, and
(1Tt~molllta (Lemon, Garlic, Parsley)
Vegetanan Paella u'ith Artichokes, Favas, Green
Beam, ZHcchinz, Peppers, and Tomatoes

--------

1996

First Course

Main Course

Hot Lobster Vich,ssoise

Eggplant-Crusted Maine Cod with Ba, Shriml>,

Th:yme-Roasted Vegetables and Port-Wine
Essence
Pepper-Seared Salmon Fillet with Grain Mustard,
Braised Asparagus, and Roasted Creamer
Potatoes or Simpl, Grilled with Select Steamed
Vegetables
Sesame-Glazed Tuna Steak with Roasted Fennel,
Braised Boo, Bok CIury, and Potato-Onion CGIce
Wood-Grilled Maine Lobster with Fragrant Truf/le
Oil, Tiny Green Beans, and &sil-Essenced
Potato Puree
Garlic-Crusted Chicken with Sfow..Roasted
Artichoke, a Puree of Barlitto Beans, Tomaro
Oil, and Fresh Rosemary
Veal Medallions with Wild Mushroom CarmdIoni.
Tomaro Coofit, and Essence of Fmh S.
Cervena Venison Pepper Steak with MusmOOln
Spaettle, Butternut Squash FIdn, and
Caramelized Parsnip
Braised Pheasant with ChantereDe Risoao. Rodser'
Cipollini Onions, and Sauce ofXiNnet SLilt
Grilled Dtu:k Escalope with PreKrwd fill. CriIt
Leg "Beicnet" and Gm,er..Qaw.IIiQI,J .!,,;,:

with Melted Leeks and Potato Crisps

open Ravioli of Srrwked Capon and Wild
Mushrooms in Sweet Garlic-Infused Pan Broth
Trio of Mullard Duck Preparations
Foie Gras Roulade, Confit and Chicory, Smoked
Duck Sausage
Sea Scallop Sandwiches
in Crisp Porato Crusts and Citrus Juices
A Service of Petrossian Ossetra Caviar
in the Traditional Fashion
Salnd of Seasonal Lettuces and Herbs
CitTUS-Dijon Vinaigrette
Saoory Celery Root Flan and Vegetables II la Grecque
EsJenCe of Sweet Garlic and Kalamata Olives
Mar/cet Select O,SteTS Over Shaved lee
with ShoUot Mignonette and Caraway Crisps
Oak-Smolced Salmon with Vegetable-Citrus Salad

SmoIctd Salmon Mousse and Michael's SouTdough

Toasts (or sen.oed naturally)
Seared Fait Gras Escalope with Roosted Plums
Wild Mldlaoum Cripe and Baby Aruguja

charcoaled FiIlr Micnon ....

Pinor Nair, eo..rur, Poe-. l'UIIIIi,,"
Mortis, and Crisp p....

C luis Schlesinger
THE EA:-.T COAST (JRILL
C wnr.ncigc, \l,,,,achmctt'

I traye\ed to diverse places-from Mexico to Thailand-and found that 1 really liked a lot llf the ,1"pect~
,~f the fo,~d. \Vhen I opened the East Coast Grill, I tried to come to an understanding of what thifl\:' ,,1\
these di\'erse foods had in common. When I look at my cooking, I think there are three major themes:
1) Mv love of h 'e fire-woad-burning stuff. The dynamic of going into the kitchen every day and cook-

ing with ,omethmg that is as uncontrollable as fire, as opposed to just going in and turning the oven
on to 350 or 375, is a constant challenge to me. Roasting whole pigs, grilling fish, or trying to keer
something from sticking-that dynamic IS ~o soulful and extends so much character into the food.
2) My other love as a cook that I de\'eloped while cookmg with )lInmy Burke at the Han'est [In
Cambridge, MAliS discovering and learning abnut new things all the time-getting a new food In and
learnmg about It and readmg about it.
3) The ,)ther aspect develored out of 111\ travel..; I' a deqre for J..:cply'f1at'orea food. \X1hat 1 ,tarted tn
work out was that, for a lot of Jlfft.'rent red dn,. cui. ine, th,lt are cb..;er to the equatm are m,lre flavorful; they have deeper flavor' or c\earl.:f tllvor or u..;e ll1l1re ~rlce~.
There are different ll1utatl\. n at the Ea t Co.l,r l~nll \'1: r ll' The Rille Room. The Grill i, mme
traight-ahead eyuatonal cUI-ine-\\arm-\\c, h r UI me, {led together h their concentratlnn llt tla\,or--wlth a Itght barbe ue onent.HI m. The Blu R 111 h ! )mc \ t th,lt, hut WdS prubably grounJed
more In !t\c fire, anJ loukm!.! It It\\: fife, r m r)t1 erie to h It tonc to 111.'. nh tll ~mllkt:r'! 01' .1 LOrnmonallty among cUI-me.

Original Menu Item.,

cl (I: mber 1 5

SpICY Black B an mtp tt1th Satt a c

ram

and Scallions
Stared Rau 'Irlom ulth Gmger
and \Xa.sarn
Green alad ulth Cold 1annaced egctablc
Cold Gnlled Eggplant alaJ ulth (JI11 er and
aUzan e ame \'malgrette

keuer d Gnlled f nkflsh uuh mlthfield Ham and

( mentlne R " h
,,'''''' P d 1i
hnmp u th ( hl/X tie Ma'i and
UIU<~1I. B
ah1
;nll.o>,i 1i
u th (Jr
(IuL auc.:

p,

u uh hTlln/J (lnd Monkfish

11 un Barb!: u d Pork [klrenh
hrcdded. arch ( arulilla Pork BariJecHc
Hlt.:kory, maked Duck ulth (;nlled PmeL pple and
Tangy CllTI( ,Cilantro Ulaze
(mlled Lamb With lin/led Vegetable and <.inlled
u eet POU1CfJCS

<'"n

kl

6,Proof ChoCl late Cake

Apple crudel
MI 15 IPPI Mud ( ake
Br ad Puddm ulth Pear Brand

~-----

-------

- -

---

~~

February 1996

Coriander-Crusted Grilled Shrimp with Pineapple

Salsa and Lime

Fettuccine Pasta with Oven-Dried Tomato Sauce.

Fresh Herbs. and Asiago Cheese

Blltrermilk-Fried Chicken Livers with Apple-Raisin
chutneY. Spinach. and Warm Bacon Dressing
Grilled Sausage from Hell and Cornbread Salad with
Hell Sausage. Lava Soaked Pineapples. and LimeGuava Dressing
Middle EasteTTI Sampler Plate with Grilled Eggplant.
Raisin Couscous. OUves. Feta. Orange Cumin
Dressing. and Grilled Pita
House Green Salad
Arugula Salad with Smoked Pears. Spiced Pecans.

and Srilron Cheese

Ume and Chicken Soup with Com Tortillas

Grilled Salmon Fillet with White Grape-GarUc

Sauce , Ume Tomato Rioja, and Spanish Rice
Caribbean-Style Spit-Roasted Pork Loin with West
Indies Beans and Rice. Jamaican Slaw. Grilled
Fennel, and Mango Marmalade
Grilled TIAM Steak with Pickled Ginger, Soy.

Wasabi. Liand Pan. and Jasmine Rice Cakes

Grilled Skewered Leg of Lamb with Saba Ganoush.
Roasted Red-Pepper-Cucumber Salad. Preserved
Lemon, Pomegranate Dressing. and Grilled Pita
Grilled Adobo-Rubbed Sirloin Steak with Pickled
Com Relish. Tamarind Ketchup, and "Damn
Good Fries"
Spit-Roasted Herb and Lemon-Rubbed Chicken with
Mashed Sweet Potatoes and Seared Kale

Sides

Apple-Raisin Chutney
Spanish Rice
"Damn Good Fries"
Seared Kale
Vegetarian Rice and Beans
Grilled Banana
Grilled Pineapple
Pineapple Salsa

Fried Plantains with Banana-Guava Ketchup

Cordiro
Mashed Sweet Potatoes

-----

Selected Main Courses

The Rattlesnake Club
Spring, 1996

Capdlini (Thin Angel Hair Pasta~ with Tomatoes,

Garlic, and Basil or wIth Sauteed Rock Shnmp
Cratt'fish Risotto uith Roasted Red Pepper, Garlic,
Su:eet Com, and Basil
Collection of Vegetables and Grains Grilled or
Steamed as a Mam Course
Herb-Crusted ?v1ahi Mahi, Ot'en-Baked u'ith Fennel
and Tomato, Saffron, and Balsamic Essence
Freshu'ater Pickerel with Pinenut Crust, Lentils, and
Tomato Sauce or Broiled with Fresh Herbs and

Striped Sea Bass Pan Seared with Oriental-Style

Vegetables and Chile Mashed Potatoes
Lobster and Mixed Grain Risotto-Barley, Arborio
Rice, and Quinoa with Saffron, Basa, and Red
Pepper Sauces
Breast of Free-Range Chicken, Garlic-Mashed
Potato, Crimini Mushrooms, and Roasted Pepper
Herb Glace
Medallions of Veal with Roasted Vegetables and
Gorgonzola Polenta
Black Angus Filet of Beef Grilled with a Rhubarb
and Cipollm! Onion Compote, Red Wine
Essence or Grilled with Garlic-Peppercorn Butter
Rack of Lamb Roasted tvlth a White Bean,
Asparagm, and Eggplant Ragout

Lemon
Crab and Salmon Cake with Maine Crab SpnnR
Roll, Yellow Pepper Cream, and SpIced Chtle 011
EscalDpe of Sterling Salmon CrisP)-\':'rapped In Potato
Crust ttith SheTTl' Mustard Sallce and Potato Crisp)

3'7

liah Tower

Je

STARS and J.T.'>

San FranCIscO . California

Caltfomia
cuisine at its worst, .made by the people
who'd imitate it.
without
understand In g It In
~';;0 _Cllled
<
'
, '
'

the first place, just got incredibly confusmg. At Stars, we ve always trled to fight agamst that "starch anU
three \.egetables on every plate" mentality. There's certainly an instinct for chefs and cooks to want t () 'If)
I
that all the nme. At J.T.'s, since it's small and it's got my name on it, 1 can really do my vision of wha 1
like to do with food-which is to take the "with" off the menu. So, it will be lobster, braised lamb
and black truffles. I don't say "with," "with," "with"-l've taken everything else off the plate. So it's a per-5
fect sauce, perfectly braised lamb shanks, some big slices of spring garlic, some black truffles-and that,>
enough. I'm tired of seeing so many ingredients on the plate. That's where I came from in the first p\ace,

shan~

so I think I've come around full circle.

Stars

July 1984

Specials of the Day

First Course.

Texas Ham uith a Japanese E{!RPlant Salad

Smoked Salmon with Gnlled Herb-Orl Bread
Malpeque O)'sccr Sceu ULth Ancho hIli Butter awl
Chenzl Puree
Pasta uith Alaskan Blue Praum, Red B Its
Tomatoes, Bmrl, and Garlrc
Grilled almon t.lith \ 'egetable Brochette awl
Ro emary MayonnaIse
Frllet of Beef m Broch u rth a Hor eradl h. Mil card
Tarragon Cream

Salads and

Mixed Grct!n Salad with Vinaigrette and Tomatoes

I hxed Green Salad tt'ith Blue Chec$e Vinaigrette
(Inca Fe-Balboa Cafe (Jarden ~1ixed , alad tt'ith
Ha~elntt!

011
(larhc o"p with

P 1 ta an I

Iced Oyster u1ch Pley Lam b au age

~Illetles of moked FI h uuh Bitler Greens alad
I h Pro liard u~th Tomatoes. Cllancro. and Chl\:e
BrIOChe U Ith Marroo, Lnb leT Sauce Poached
(wruc and Chenil
TUJI U Ith Ham
LIL
-r
nau()15
J arra
n and
(haT

na

LlIJ'C

LeaH and Herb Proficcrules

Fl h

the \X hIm uf the Chef. rrict:~, Weacher,

and FI hmg CnndW{)l1

ubJcct

(m II

to

nd 11 1I1 Com

ChI ken
Appctt:er

l)UP

\lith

t.:

Tarragon. ,ream, Mu hr Jom . and

RadIcchIO
Gnlled ueetm-eads \lIth Am hoke and a \"(Ild
Mu hroom Butter
Gnlled Aged eu York teak ulth Fne and a
Tarrag m Colbert Butler
Blanqueue f\ al ulth Summer \. e Ilble and
Crlt"tfl h auce

J.T.'s
Week of February 27-March 2, 1996

!-lors d'Oeuvre

Choice of Main Course

B~d ~merican Snapper with Herb Vegetable Salad

Choice of First Course

Block rruflk Cusrard with Sunchcks

Lirntswnt lettUCe with Ma,tag Blue Cheese and
BrioChe Crouwns
Warm Foie Gras Sandwich
Osetra Caviar SenIice with Iced VodJca

Pnme Fillet of Beef with Duxelle Potatoes and

Pecan-Herb Salad
C~ Breast with Morels and Lobster Essence
BraISed Lamb Shank with Fava Beans and Stwift ..
Garlic
Y"''6
Saddle of Venison with Truffled Celery Root and
Cippolini Onions

Crab Ravioli with Block Truffles

sceamed Mussels in a SheU{ish Tarragon Sauce
Choice ofJ.T.'s Desserts

-----

Alice Wlters and Lindsey Shere

CHEZ PANISSE
Berkeley . Callfornw

Week of November 14,1971

Thursday
Sunday

Hors d'Oeuvres Varies

Steak au Poivre
Salade
Profiteroles

Hors d'Oeuvres Varies

Daube d' Agneau
Salade
Lemon Mousse

Monday

Fnday

Hors d'Oeuvres Varies

Manicotti and Meatballs
Salade
Biscuit Tortoni

Tartcleues aux Poissons

Can-oe and Orang-e Soup
RIS de \leaH or Swffed Lamb
Salade
Frozen Chuw/atc Marquis

Tuesday
aturday

Hors d'Oeuvres Varies

Pork Roast with Plums
Salade
Vanilla Bean Custard

Pate Matson
Cream of \Vatercre.ls soup
Puulet Valle d'Aug-e
Salade
Fruit

Wednesday

Hors d'Oew.:res Varies

Lapin Saute Proven~al
Salade
Fruit and Cheeses

320

a l'Occitanienne

A la Carte

Dessert, Coffee, Estrresso, Steaks and Chops

r I

-Rick Bayless
FRONTERA GRlLL and TOPOLOBAMPO
Chicago. Illinois

INGREDIENT S:

1. Beans. In my cooking, that's kind of my meat. I live on them.

. d
I
Idn't Il','e without making tortillas, so I'd really need that.
ne
corn.
cou
D

.'3. Ancho chiles. Ancho has a deep sweetness to it.

7

4. Guajillo chiles. Guajillo has a really brIght spiciness and high acidity to it.
5. poblano chiles. Poblano is my fa\'orite of all the green chiles; it's got a trflemendous complexity of fla\'or, and I can turn it inside and out, doing e\'erything from using it as a

avoring to using it as a veg-

etable.

6. Greens. I like greens in just about any \\'ay, and if I chose something like chard, I could use it raw,
braised, or mixed in with the corn or the beam and cooked that way.

7. Garlic. Garlic gives me a lot of different l1ptlOm fllr tlwor, whether It's raw or cooked or roasted. That
is one of the things that i~ ab'oluteh' t'"entlal With the cht!e~, tll add a lot of depth.
8. Onions. I could do a\\'av With ol1lom bdore I coulJ ~arl!c, but I \\'anteLI ~\.llne fresh fla\'\.)[S and
abl~ to add crunch and !I,'e!lne" to a cil h, '0 thdt' where {he onion, come in.

(0

he

I h,I\'e to ha,'c uoar. And I ,-oull even turn ~ome of these things into sweet
dishe<; that would reall} san,ty 111) weet tooth. I coulJ !I1dke cornhre,ld-hke rhln~s with the corn.

9. Sugar. I lm'e s\\'eet5,

'0

There are e\'en ,\reet hean dt-he

10. Salt. Mexican food tend,

to

In

-:-'Iexlco a welL

be fairly lW2h 10 oJlUm, bee mel he corn .m.! the he<m~ really need a fair

amount of ,;alt to ~et rhem to

il

place where the~ 're really

TU.H

lut f

tLl't).

1. Grilling. It'- one of tho,e thing I wuldn't \i\'e wlthollt. I love mob, flavor, And they gu re,llly, realIy well with the re t of [hI' tuff.
1

Boiling. You\e

00[

t0

coo k lorn dn d Ll'ean,

il

loni.! time_

3. Shallow-frying. ['m rdernng

. to when you cook omething lowly tor
01 I, and It kinJ of '
J you crare It all up.
get em t~'an
" ' - - - _ ..

-.------~-.- ..

----- -------

324
a

long time,

In

Ju,r

,I [IllY

bit of

Ver<lCru:, Stvle Greens and Beans with Red Chile and Dumplings
by Rick Bayless
M,-\t;b AflOLJT 10

curs,

"ERVI~G

AS A MAlt-< CnL:R,,~

1 pound (about 2 1/2 cups) dry black beans

4 stemmed, dried chipotle chiles (or canned chipotle chiles en adobo)

3 medium (1 1/2 ounces total) dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
3 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped

1/2 small white onion, sliced

4 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil or rich-tasting lard

1 cup (8 ounces) fresh masa for tortillas

OR a generous 3/4 cup dried masa harina mixed with 2/3 cup hot water
salt, ahout 2 1/2 teaspoons

3/4 cup chopped cilantro

1 1/2 cups (6 ounces) crumbled MeXican qucso fresco or pre 'sed salted farmer's cheese
6 cups stemmed, thickly sliced ~turJy green (such as lamb's quarters-quelites, chard, collard,
or practically any other-if you're cooking 10 texIco. try the Veracru: xonequi or quintoniles
or Yu atecan cha)'a)
1. The beans. Rin e the bean, then coop them mto a large (6-quart) pot (preferably a Dutch oven or a
Mexican earthenware olla), and add 2 \.juart of water and remove any bean that float. Bring to a boil,
reduce heat to medium-low, and Immer, partially covered, until the beans are thoroughly tender (they
will ta te creamy, not chalky), about 2 hour~. You'll need to tir the bean regularly and add water as
nece ary to keep the level of the liqUid a generau 1/2 inch above the level of the beans.

2. The chiles. While the bean are cooking. make the chile puree. On an ungrea ed griddle or heavy skillet
over medium heat, toast the dried chipotle , turnmg regularly and pre ing flat with a patula, until they
are very aromatic and a little toa ty mellmg, about 30 econd. (Canned chipotles need no preparation.)

On the same hot urface, toa t the ancho : open the chile out flat and. one or twO at a time, pre flat
for a few secoods'
WI. porno
f
ke.
With a metal patula until they tart to crackle. even send
upr
a Tamt
. d 0 f toast ed c h'lI es Wit
.h
thenfl
h
Ip and press down to toast the other ide. In a mall bowl. cover both km
Ot water and let rehydrate 30 minute
tirring frequently to en ure even soaking. Drain and discard the
Water.

- the chiles with garhc,

onion,
and about 1/2 cup water (YOU
In a food processor or blender, pureething freely moving through thebl
) Press t h rough a mediu.
ad es.
need a little
. more
. water
b to
I Iget every
I
ucepan heat 2 tablespoons 0 f th e 01'1 or Iard over me,dium_},i"';
mesh stramer_ mto
sa
'
r about 5 minutes
II a ow. nda t'arge
nearly
constantly
as it sears and t h'IC kens lor
Add the puree a at once an s chile
Ir
.
.
.
puree into them, stir
well, and
simmer 30
mmutes.
longer
the
.
the beans are tender, scrape

(cantl"uLd from precedmg page)

3. The masa dumplings. In a large bowl, knead together (your hand works best here) the fresh or rec(lt\StI
tuted masa with the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil or lard, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, 1/4 cup of
chopped cilantro, and the cheese until uniformly mixed. Form into about 48 balls, each the size of a

marble. Cover and set aside.

4. Finishing the dish. Check the consistency of the black bean stew; there should be a good amount of
in the beans (you have to add the dumplings and greens and still come out with a stew-like corlSist:l!l
cy, so add additional water if necessary) and the broth should be as thick as a light sauce. (If it's not
thick as you'd like, puree a cup of the beans in a food processor or blender and return to the pot as
ening.) Liberally season the stew with salt, usually about 2 teaspoons (the beans themselves will
tinue to absortb the salt for quite a while after you season them).
With the pot simmering over medium, add the dumplings one at a time, nestling them into the RUrvlil
broth as they go in. Simmer 5 minutes, then add the greens; sur gently 50 as not to break up
dumplings, and simmer until the greens are fully cooked (about 7 mmut for tender greens like
10 to 12 minutes for tougher ones lake collard and lamb' quanen).
Ladle .into wann bowls, spnnkle laberally WIth the mnalrung chopped CIlantro, and serve with plenl11
steaming tortillas for a really satisfymg meal.

Daniel Boulud
RESTAURANT DANIEL
Neu York . New York
I~GREDlfNTS:

Onions. They come into many dishes in my hometown ... if I'm thOmk'mg about survlva
. I, I' d go back to
1.
my fllotS.

Tomatoes. I can eat them every day.

?
o

3. A whole pig. It would carry me a while-I love ham, saucisson, confit, boudin! (See Daniel Boulud's
recipe t~)r Braised Spiced Pork Belly on pages 328-329.)

4. Two rabbits, one male and one female. In a few months, I'd have five hundred rabbits! And I could
live on just pig and rabbit.

5. Olive oil. You can cook anything with it; you can barbecue or stir-fry or make a dressing with it, and
it always tastes great.

6. Sea salt. I use fleur de sel, which is the top of the cru t when the sea dries. It's the most sophisticated
and refined salt-I u e it more for fini hing dishes.

i. Potatoes. I love potatoes-the \ariation in cooking potatoe ' is endless.

'. Truffles, white and black. If lite i going to be tough, you might a well have it with truffle. And you
can do anything with truffle. You co uld put the black truffle with a baked potato ....

9. Cheese. Aged goat chee e. I'd want it to be the kind I ate growing up in Lyon, like my grandmother
used to make.

10. Wine. Red wine, like a great Burgundy or MedoL

TE H IQl E :

1. teaming. It' healthy, and can alway be prepared with implicity. When you team something, the
idea i to flavor what you team in order to preserve the purity of the di h. I'd use this for seafood, fish,

hellfi h.
2. Braising. I'd use thi for roast and meat mostly, serving them with a basic jus.

3. Grilling. That' how I live and cook in the ummer. I love vegetables and whole fISh, like salmon.
cooked on the grill.

Braised Spiced Pork Belly

by Daniel Boulud
The ingredients
list may appear long, but any unavailable herbs and spices can be omitted or repIaceu With
.
o t h er~ .
SER\ EO;

6-8

one 4 lb. slab fresh, very lean pork belly

Spices
1 teaspoon coriander seeds

1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds

2 tea~poon black peppercorn.

1/4 tea'p

n whole ck)n'~

_ plece~

~tar ;111l-C

1 three-lOch I ng LlOnal11ll!1 t1l.:k

Herb

rt.!

roem

I)

_ ba lea\c
aoe

28

prt

rh\me

Tcrr.lOce Brennan
PICHOLlNE
Net<' York, Net<' York

L (; RHll Io

T 'i:

1. Olhe oil. That's what 1 cook with-It reigns in the kitchen! It's healthy and tasty.
2. Garlic. I love garltc-it' very gutsy.

3. White truffles. Especially o\'er pasta.

4. Porcini. The greatest mushroom,

In

terms of flavor and texture.

5. Tomatoes. I love tomatoes, but only dunng the summer. (See Terrance Brennan's recipe for Poached
Halibut with Tomato Confit on page 331-332, whteh he says he devised "in order to extend the toma.
to

eason!")

6. Bread. A good, crusty campa~e bread.

7 Cheese. With hread, chee e, ami wtne, you'd have a nice lunch. I'd want to take a basket of cheesesBnn d'Amour, Cabralle- (a ~r m h blue hee e). Reblollchon, and Parmesan. which is arguably the
!!rearest chee. e 10 the w rid. It' the nl hee e \\ Ith n enme cuisine behind it.
L

- Wine. I love \\ onderful, bH!, mcel

3g

red \\ me

9. Peache .. Perfectly" In -np ned pe he -

he 're pre t \\ nh blueberrie .

1 . Chocolate. I 1m chocollte.

r
1.

auteeing. It' the medIUm

r lx ut

percent f m cook mg.

2. Roa ting. I like the texture n 'I\e . Ilk the cn

3. Grilling. FIr the fla\or

It

r)

km n chicken.

\\e thr u h th "ood u ed, and for I lighme

- - - - - - -.h d Day,Boat Halibut with Tomato Confit and Aged Balsamic Vinegar
--------

PO~l

by Terrance Brennan

With this dish in the early {all, in order to extend the tomato season a little more-I like keepI CJI11e Uf . on the menu as Iong as pOSSlU
' LI e, smce
.
we are a Frenc h -Mediterranean restaurant. Proven<;:al
. wIl1nW e,
. . . .
.
109 .
evident throughout the dish-olive 011, balsamiC vmegar, eggplant. While halibut is fine
th\,or,
. one 0 { t h e better ways 0 f
"
, ' Jare
J think poaching IS
cookmg
It and that it results in the best texture. This
,~utee
I 0 f CUlsme,
..
.m t h at It
. ,s l'Ig h t yet f1 avorf u1 an d respectful of the fish itself,
"
. ,
'entntive 0{
my stye
re
dish 15 rer , ,
1

SER\E~ 6

2 large eggplants (about 3 pounds),

split lengthwise

1 whole egg
1/3 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

salt and pepper to taste

6 ounce' extra \'Irgin ohve oil

I. Brush cut surface of eg["rplants with oltve oil.

2. Place cut surface down nn roa~t111\! r,Kkj place m

3. Roast

In

a 325 0 o\'en for 1 hour anJ 15

irom lwen.
1. \X'hen Wl)l en,1ugh

to

<

ll111111tC', l\f

roa~tln~ pan.

until eggplant kin colbr es when touched; remove

handle, ,coop t1e,h out of eggpl,mt inro fme mesh

~tra111er; allow

to drain one

hour.
5. Place dral11ed eggplant 111 {Ol)J rrece .. or, puree, and remove ro a mixl11g buwl.
6. Add eg~, tlour, garlic, .,alt, and perper.

-I

Blend t"'lether,

~ . Place I Ounce olive 011 in 1 ")-mch tetlon pan and hear.

9 Place 1 tablespoon of eggplant mixture

In

a medium-hOt pan and ,allte until edge: begtn w brown,

12, Turn over, lower heat, and cOl.k throu!:!h.

1\. Rttnnve and dr,lIn on rarer towel, place on bdk1l1g ~heet, and c ntinue untd all the 11llxture IS cone.
You houlJ ha\ e 1 to 2\.. pII.'Ce"
12, Place un a baking heet and heat [hem in

,I

,::)C O\'en when you are ready to sene.

331

~---------------~~~------------------
Gary Danko
INGREDIENTS:

I's the basis of life. It would satiate my palate.

I. SaIt.
7 Olive oil. It's the healthiest oil in the world .

..

love the flavor of bread.

3. Wh eat. I
4. Maple syrup. I even eat it with yogurt. It's a childhood thing.
5. yogurt. I eat it every day. I love a good yogurt, like Nancy's (which is made in Oregon).
6. Basil. I love basil.
7. Tomatoes. Another childhood thing-I love tomatoes.
8. Duck. It's plain, flat-out simple and delicious. There is no comparison to a beautifully roasted duck that
you've rubbed with salt and lemon juice-to me, that is like heaven.
9. Raspberries. I love them, and they've typically got more flavor than strawberries.
10. Butter. It's one of the gifts of nature-and no animal died to make it.

TECH IQVE :

I. Roasting. It' imple and efficient and delicious. Some of the best foods are done that way
(0

from duck

vegetables.

2. Braising. It's another way of developing flavor, and a treamlined way of preparing a dish and sauce at
the same time.

3. Grilling. Proper grilling is done when the flames are imply glOWing emhen. not big licking flames that
leave carbon deposits on the meat.

Duck Prosciutto
by Gary Danko
This is a delicious dish, made with an ancient method of preservation. You can hang it for 15 to 30 da
depending on how dry you want it. I make them 40 at a time! I like serving it in the traditional
with half of a peeled ripe fig, some melon or slices of pear, shaved fennel and arugula, or drizzled with fen-

manner~

nel oil.

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon thyme

1 bay leaf, ground

1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds, cracked

1 teaspoon black peppercorns. cracked

1 large Barbarie or moulard duck hrea t. abl1L1t 1 pound

1. Combine salt with sp\Ce~ anJ herb.

2. Trim duck breast of exces~ kll1, tenderloin. and Ille\\ . Ruh pice mix into hre, "t. Place on a plate and
wrap with plastic wrap. Cure for 24 hour or Ion d. Bm hoff e l.e rub, \\TdP Ill. Lhct' ec10th anJ hang
in cooler for 15 Jays. Trim exee ,tat. ltee \el) thlll. Th pro Ilitto may h trll:en anJ cut on .J meat
slicer.

- --

- --~~

Su~an Feniger
BORDER GRILL
Santa M()nIca , California
INC.RFDIENTS:

1. Olive oil. I love the flavor of a really strong, fruity olive oil-over cheese, over vegetables, on bread.

. egar'
I'd need
an acid of some sort. I love vinegar with olive oil ' and wh en I rnake stews, ll'k
2, Vto
.
I e to
finish them with an aCid.
3. Cheese. A great feta, I love a great cheese-I can always eat it.
4. Avocados. Really satisfying to eat again and again, like artichokes, (See Susan Feniger's recipe for
Avocado Corn Relish on page 336.)

5. Tomatoes. As a side. I need some balance--everything so far is too rich.

6. Green beans. I need a vegetable. I'm thinking of combinations of things. I could stew them with tomaroes and feta, or have them with olive oil and vinegar.

7. Salt. Avocado, olive oil, and salt. I can't think of a more perfect dish.
S. Bread. A great bread, like a great sourdough, with a lot of crust.
9. Olives. Dry-cured black olive - of some !>ort. I hke :nackmg food, I like

to pick like that-some olives,

some feta ...

10, Chocolate. ometimes you need

~omethmg weet, even ju t a little bit. I'd take a high-quality semi-

sweet chocolate.
After being told which of their mgredient were the
each of the re t of her partner Mary

~ame,

usan Feniger went on to correctly guess

ue Milliken' Ii t!
TECH ' IQVE :

1. Grilling. You can do anything on a grill. I like

to

grill; you can bake in the charcoal, you can grill or

saute or boil on a grill.

2. Sauteemg. I would want to be able

~.

to

cook thing quickly.

Stewing. I love soups--l think they're comforting. A one-pot meal is easy and can last for day.

Avocado Corn Relish

hy

Su~an

Feniger

In thi, refre~htng relish. corn

, kernels .are lightly cl)oked just to develop their
. flavor and then mixed
.
w h
sharp
scallions.
Such a fabulo us re I'I h It
chunks of smoky roasted chiles. lUXUriOUS, avocodo and crunchy
.
.
'
ea 'i\y take the. place
brt steak or fish and it .ga~~
L.
can
. of a cooked sauce with casual foods liked gnlled
"
buffet tables stnce It complements so many foods. We have been known to eat this relish off the
on
with nothing more than tortillas and be quite content.
Poon or

3/4 cup olive oil

4 cups fresh com kernels (about 5 ear)
1 table 'poon salt
3/4 tablespoon fre hly ground black pepper
2 avocado. peeled and seeded
I large red bell pepper. cored and seeded
4 poblano chile. r a ted. peeled. and seeded
4 scallion. whIte and ltght green pan ,thmly It ed on the daagonal
1/2 cup red wme vm

ut~ the com wiIh

1. Heat 1/2 cup of the olive otl In a large kill t ver medIUm heat
t.
per. about 5 minutes. Transfer to a large mlxmg bowl and t asKIe

2. Cut the avocados bell pepper. and r

1
With the scallions red me v a n - i n c h
utes to blend the flay
megar. and mnammg 1 .. cup 01.

at room temperatuIe. Com rei

nsb 2 to 3
an advance
....
DUX

Roasted Chicken
by Jllhanne Killeen and George Germon
SER\E~

6-8

2 whole chickens (about 3 pounds each). washed and dried

1-2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 head garlic
2 large onions (I pound), peeled, cut in half lengthwise and sliced thinly
2 cups ripe cherry tomatoes
1/4 cup virgin olive oil
1 cup dry white wine
2 heads fresh watercres wa'hed and trimmed
1. Preheat the oven to 450.

2. Liberally salt the in ide and au Ide of the chIcken. Lay them hrea t ide up in a casserole with a tightfitting lid. Break up the head of garbc, lea\'ing the kin on, and catter the garlic cloves around the chicken. along with the anton ltce. Add the cherry tomatoe and pour over the olive oil and wine.
3. Cover the casserole and roa t the chIcken for 1/2 h ur. Tum the chicken breast lde down and,..
another 1/2 hour. Uncover the ca ser Ie and ru t about 15 minut until the skin has browned; tum the
chicken brea t ide up and roa t an additional 15 mmut to brown. t the chick
place to re t for 10 minute.
4. Lay the watercre out on a large. warm rving platter, top wlth the chlCkens and IOIIWl
the watercress wilt. and serve at once WIth the remalmng uce pared in

aiel."

,....-

- - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - -

--

JO)'Le Goldstein

. 1 din
JOyce Gol dstein agreed to answer our question on one condition'. "It's got to be aM ed't
I erranean IS an .
INGREDIENTS:

I.

Wheat.

I'd want to make pasta, bread, pizza.

l . potatoes.
3. A tree that growS both lemons and oranges. Citrus is one of the great balancers in my food-it adds

sparkle.
4. A cow or a goat. For milk, cheese, yogurt.

5. Grapes. Wine enriches your life.

6. Spinach. One of the most satisfying vegetables 1 know. (See Joyce Goldstein's spinach salad recipe on

page 340.)
7. Chicken. For eggs, soup.
8. Olives. For olive oil-plus 1 like them hy themseh-es.
9. Mushrooms, They're like meat . And they're vcry \er~atLlc.
10. Vegetables. Asparagus, peas, eggplant!

Tl:.CH

IQt b:

1. Sauteeing, I'm a line cook-l lo\'e the energy of keeping all the hurner~ going!
2. Braising. There's nothing like the smell when ,omethtng's braistng.
3. Grilling. llove the smell and the crunch ( f the texture and the char. The power of the gnlll' pnmative,

"

II

339

Hubert Keller
FLEUR DE LYS
:illn Franmco, CalIfornia

(:HrrllTNTS:

'aniIla ice cream. Thi,

. IS a flavor I, love from chilJhood ' My father used to rna k"
e It In h'IS pastry
\
when I \I'm, grow\I1.g up, and I d always be nearby with a spoon an U" a bow,I You h ave to eat
, l
h lr
\<Indla ICe cream right from the machine, three minutes before it's done, so it's just a little under.
Vnndla i, a fla\'or that's great for creme anglaise, sorbets, or anything! It's absolutely the best,
desr lte all the complicated flavors out there.
1 Caviar. Not because it's expensive- I Just love to eat it with a spoon, as long as it's fresh and not
-' ovwalted. Irs creaminess and texture are unique. (See Hubert Keller's recipe for Cauliflower
puree with Caviar on pages 342-343.)
3. Rose hip jam. My father still sends it to me! It's an elegant confiture. My grandmother used to
make a syrup of rose hip, and we would add water and make it into a drink like lemonade when
I.

we were children.
4. Caprin a [the Bra:ilian national drink]. My wife and I sen'e it at home at the start of parties. It gets
a rarty going in a hour!
5. Limes. Lime goes with the Caprina!
6. Champagne. It's festl\'e, and great for 'pecial occa,ion,. In a recent article about what chefs have in
their refrigerators, all of us had champagne~ Mme 31,0 h,lll r e hip Jam-and chocolate, for my wife.
7. Rack of lamb. It\ the meat I eat the rna t. L1rnb i very Imrie; imply roa~t it and add some roast
garltc and a simple, uncomplicated auce .
. Wild strawberries [fraises des bois]. It' a fancy thing. A kid, my parents had a house in the
mountains, and we would pick them In the wood . Their t1avor cannot be beaten. They're like the
ultimate Jewel, or diamond - 0 full f flavor! And I could put them on my ice cream.
9, Oysters melon triple-zero). They're big, but not owrp wenng- 0 delicate, you could eat one
or twelve.
\" Truffle. It' an ingredient that

a mira Ie. With all the money,cienti t ,and technology, these

are onl~' a product of nature. And With crambled egg, they're the ulttmate!
TELH IQlE :

I. Roasting (with a convection oven). We TO t

percent of ollr fl h thi way. It seal in the juices
and flavor. We de everything thi \\"ay-small cur- of flh and meat, even scallops--and let it re t
for three minutes, Just like meat. And all our cooks have mall pray bottle of oil, (0 pray the meat.

2. Braising. liVing in a fa t-paced world, there i no time (0 cook anymore. Thi take longer, but
~ou get to use cheaper cut of meat that have a lot of flavor. We'll do braised lamb next to lamb
3 10m or chop, for c mtrast n the plate. It' a forgotten techniyue that has great delicacy.
Pan-frying. It' a technique ou'd u t r veal medallion or thin cut of meat. Or for vegetable

or potat

, to gIVe them cn pne .

---------h a second sheet of rarc~ment paper with olive oil and place on top of the potato slices. Bake them
s
4. Bru~~
n for 15 to 18 mmutes. The potato chips w1l1 turn into a beautl-ful dar-~oomID
k bl
I
d be
1[1
slucent. Remove from the heat and set aside in a dry spot.
Jhnos t tran
Cauliflower Puree

he outside leaves of the cauliflower. separate it into florets. and wash it. Cook the cauliflower in
Take ,1 . ('t htly salted L[1m'1-mg \\.ater. Wh en It
. IS- a bso Iute Iy sof t. dram
. It.
. Place the cauliflower in a mediumJ rl1 [ 01 Ig
, f
d
h'
. .
,i:e saucepot. Add 3 ta.blesp~ns 0 ~ream an usmg a w I.sk. mash It mt~ a puree over medium heat. Go
, _. ~)r 4 to 5 mmutes to elimmate any excess of mOlsture--otherwlse when blended the puree will
l10 surTIng l
_

be [(10 runny. Transfer the mixture to a blender and puree until you obtain a very smooth texture. Season
Transfer the puree to a small pot and keep hot.
w taste.
.
(t

Watercress Sauce
I. Wash the watercres and trim off the leave . Di 'card the terns. Cook the leaves in a pot of boiling salt-

ed \\'ater just until tender. about 3 to 4 minute. Drain in a 'trainer. Save 1/2 cup of cooking liquid.
Refresh the leave under cold running water. In a mall aucepot, heat one teaspoon olive oil.

2. Add the chopped hallot and cook to a light golden color. Deglaze with white wine and reduce to
almost dry. Add 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid and one table poon cream; season with salt and pepper.
Bring to a boil and lower the heat to a immer for 2 minute . then add the cooked watercress leaves.
Tran fer to a blender. blend the mixture for one mmute. and you will obtain a light and very tasty waterere

auce. Check the seasoning.

Fini hing and Pre entation

Carefully divide the cauliflower puree in the center f four plate. Top the puree with the caviar. Spoon the
a.terctess sauce all around the cauliflower. Decorate with the potato chip by ticking them around the
cauliflower puree. prinkle with chive and chopped egg yolk.

N . The
d:-

!ess

blue potato chips definitely add a dramatic look to thi deliciou di h. A an option, but a
matte one, red potatoe can be u d for chip; so can blanched asparagu tip.
~t blue potatoes or purple potatoes: they have a deep blue kin. The fle h i bright blue and the flavor
texture are lmlhar to russets. They originate and are very popular in the South American Andes.

n _

Gray Kunz
LESP1NASSE
Net!' York, Neu: York

I CREDlE"ITS :

I----f. Potatoes, carrots, leeks, onions. I'd want

).

to

bring some nourishment, first.

Coriander.

6. Bay leaves.

-I .

Coconut.
Sugar cane.

9 Salt.
lL. \\'ater.
Kun: ratded off hi. list with the a~ urance ,,f ~omeone who had just finished thinking about exactly
thl question. '0 meat? Kun: claims, "1 woukln't miS, It ~\) much." And he says he'd look for fish and
other local ineredlenc to cook with.
TE H

lQl E :

1. Brai ing.

2. Simmering.

3. Steaming.
Kunz expl

In

mat all of th e

hmyue ,-on emr te the fLlVor of the ingredients heing cooked into

the hqUld.

.----~--

~-----.---------

~--------------------~~~-ry-:S~u-e~~~l='ll~ik~e-n--------------------------
BORDER GRILL
Santa Maruca. Ca/ifomia
INGREDIENTS:

1. 1JIack pepper. I love it.

()live oiJ. It's tOO hard to make from scratch.
2.
I need it to flavor everything.
3. V'anegar
4. s-a-ti rice. I adore it. It has such a fabulous aroma-l could eat it every day.

5. Salt. I don't want to get it out of the ocean.

6. T()IIIIltoeSo Ripe and beautiful ones.

n_-..J..,rftes. Perfectly ripe, they're my favorite fruit.

7. I\PI'"""
8. Cheese- Vacherin. It's only available around my birthday (which is in February).

9. ArugUIa. A good source of calcium.

10. Red wiDe- A really incredible one, to go with the cheese.

Milliken rook some coaxlng to answer the questlOO. ". want to have anything. want whenever I want
it," she complained. But then her ingenuity Jumped into action. "Can you fish there?" she asked h0pefully.
TE H IOllE :

1. r. II

' If yoo

2. BI 'r' I I
1 Bel'

pm_

m the pan and can make a sauce. I lib the ar....diIIlda..

In 73He CUD ci meat--thev have more flavor, more character.

.la
......Ie. PI
. ..n.5 I worked-on ~~ m a bakery.

"

Wayne Nish
MARCH
New Yorlc. New Yorlc

REDlENT:

oil (Mosto).
2.
t. When I went to Barbados twO months ago. I rook a bottle of olive oil and a bag
thole are far and away my pnonnes.
quid claIM'" that can be used effecnvely m buildma up layen of flavor
3. V. ..-1b.1
... am...
thin the dish. You imply make a dilh. more COIlI_
1. 0Ii

__

~~--dM~~

Patrick O'Connell
THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON
Washington. Virginia

. hink I'd bother with anything but water. I'd regard it as a great cleansing, to rise above food. Why
I dondt It want food on a d
. I Wh y would I want to survive on a desert island? I just
esert'IS Iandl'T
. 10 survive.
wo~Ibeing thirsty rather unpleasant. I think I ~ould fast and die. And transcend. Certainly one wouldn't
fln
ook for God's sake! For myself!! I can t relate to that.
want (0 C ,
.
r
.
I think I'd be perfectly content eating raw rOod, and foraging, or whatever. 1 think there's going to be
ed in the next hundred years about why we do what we do to food even though very often it's
rnU Ch Iea rn
.
essary. Why we cook food, why we replicate tastes from childhood, why we go through the whole
nec
un
hen raw food would be fine. Obviously, it's doing it for others. It's doing it to express love and codess
rroc w
. . ,
.
dling and all of this. But It Isn t something that I would ever feel I needed to do for myself. I'm looking to
get beyond it.
I recognize that food is a focus--it' a way of manipulating and controlling people into a sort of
hei htened state and it' a vehicle that provides them with a connection. And it is powerful. But there's a
di;ension and a level beyond it. There' sort of a high without it. And even fasting is a fabulous high. But
food is a fabulous anchor, too-food, and working with food. And that's what it's done for me, as a personit's kept me from flying off. Or being shot down.
What on earth do people ay they'd bring to a desert i land? Butter? Olive oil?
I would welcome the experience of tarting fre h-{)f going to a desert i land not having any idea of
what was there, and looking upon it as dropping all the old baggage and developing an entirely new palate
and new mode of survival.

Bradle) Ogden
LARK CREEK INN
ONE /--IARKET RESTAURANT
'sdn FrancIsco , California

<.;lHJ)IlNT~:

1. Corn . There 's nothing better than fres h corn, right off the stalk. I still remember sitting in a corn patch

on my grandmothe r's farm, eating it nght off the stalk.

2. Tomatoes. T here's nothing better th an vine-ripened tomatoes, with a sprinkle of salt. When I Wa
grOWll1g up, we llsed to eat them in movie theatres. (See Brad ley Ogden 's recipe for Chilled Fre,~
Tomato Soup on page 349.)

3. Beluga caviar. I love It with warm bl mi~.

4. Fraises des bois (wild strawberries). Right off the vine, they have the mllst intense flavor.
) . Lobster. Maine lohqe r, nght out of the water.

6. Free-range chicken.

7. Basil. If 1 haJ

herb, thl

to ,"0 to "Ieep WIth all

I'

the one. It'... my t,1\'orite to conk with.

Chiles. T hey enhance and add pice ,md ltfe to m re II n .

gelable; I u e them with ,dmo't anything.

9. Artichokes. They're one of O1} fl\ome

10. Balsamic vinegar. It"

01,

ail-tim

,\\( nt

\IIlC

ar.l\e be n a

II

ed

lIt

<tITyml(

,lTl\\md

,I

hottle In my

rack pocket.

Ogden t-alb at not bemg able

"When the} 're

111

[0

\ II

t ke all n .lprle, blud 'rrte ,('herrie , IlII1~k

,ea on, there' n thin ~et er!"

E H

1.

pit-roa!>ting. It' a clean \\ a~

2. Grilling. Yuu don'( hd\'e

3.

!Il('!\l\b,

to

(,00

ucaI

lQl E :

In'

(0

fit, anJ

)U

un gl.:t thin'

teaming. It alhm ,ou to retam all the nutnenb md d

rth 0 lolor.

r on the out

Ide.

,m,j mUfek

---

-------~-

---------

-------

-~-----

Chilled Fresh Tomato Soup with Pepper Relish

by Bradley Ogden

SER V ES

4- 6

2 pounds firm, ripe tomatoes

1/4 cup minced red onion
1/4 cup minced yellow bell pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon fresh cracked black pepper

1. Cut the tomatoes into I-inch chunk . Puree them through the fine blade of a food mill to extract the
juice and pulp and leave the kins and seed behind. (A food processor or blender should not be used
for this step a tOO much air i incorporated into the puree.) Cover the puree tightly and refrigerate for
2 hour.
2. Just before serving, mince the red onion and yellow bell pepper and chop the fresh basil. Toss together
in a small bowl. tir the balsamic vinegar. olive oil, alt. and pepper into the chilled tomato puree.
Adjust the seasoning with more vinegar. olive oil. alt, and pepper if necessary.

3. Serve the soup in chilled soup bowl and place a heaping table poon of the relish in the center of each

bowl.

"

ng

/I

Jean-Louis Paltadin
INGREDIENTS:

1. poultry. I'd bring duck.

2. Foie gras. I'm addicted to foie gras, (See Jean-Louis Palladin's foie gras recipe on pages 351-352,)
3. Bananas. They give you strength.

4, Salt. I'm nuts about salt.

5. Spices and herbs. llike tlert/eine (verbena) so much that 1 named my daughter after it.
6. Olives. likewIse, 1 named my son Oliver.
7. Wine. When 1 smell it, it's so fantastic ...
8. Grappa or Armagnac.
9. Dried cod.

10. Water. I'm addicted

to

water-l drink four or five liters of Evian a day!

TECH

IQL f

1. Grilling in a fireplace. I've done It all my bfe.

2. Braising in the oven. In the wimer...

3. Sauteeing. It gives food a nLce color-an:lI ltkt: ha\'m~ a cn"pi' top and a moist bottom,
Palladin aLo admit:, to lovmg pot all fe[(-"thmt:~ that arc cooked n I-o-n-g time." He'd also want to
hnng a Cuisinart and a HendeL "Ilovc maktn!! concoction~ of herh." when the raw juice tastes just of
the herh. You can u~e herh juice~ for, many thing ." :\ cookmt: techntque he could do without?
"Poachmg-l hate it when the fooJ dlime~rate into the \tquld."

350

--- -

---------

Braised

---Foie Gras

--~ ~

with Rhubarb

by Jean-Louis Palladin
SERVES

Sau ce

1/2 cup sugar

twelve 1/2 ounces trimmed rhubarb stalks (seven 5 1/2-inch stalks)
I cur meat or \'egetable consomme (preferred) or meat or vegetable stock (liquid and clear broth)

1/4 cup unpeeled chopped carrots

2 tablespoons chopped celery
2 tablespoons of chopped leeks (mostly white part)
1 tablespoon chopped onion
2 tablespoons unpeeled chopped turnips
1 tablespoon chopped shallots
1 cup of fond de t'cau (veal stock-thick in consistency)*
About 4 to 6 tahlespoons bratsmg liquid
(re~er\'ed from bral,ing fmc gras)
1 whole fresh uncooked duck or goose foie gras (Grade A: ahout 1 pound)
fine sea 'air and (re,hly ground black pepper

B ra ise d bed
1 cup unreeled chopped carrot-.
1/2 cup chopped celery
1/2 cup chopped leeks (mo,t1y white part)
1/2 cup chopped onions
1/2 cup ch ppeJ unpeeled chopped turnips
1/4 cup choppedhallots
1 very leafy thyme sprigs
3 medlum-si:e bay leaves
1 tea -poon fine -ea ~alt
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
2 table poon vegetable oil
1/2 cup meat or vegetable consomme (preferrred)
or meat or vegetable stock
1 cup of port wine
/ wnnru.ed on ",.., ptItt)

~~~----------------------------~--~~~==~==~
.it I~ I made ft
d

f
I
r te. \''"''etdhle and ,,"ter. It thIck in conslStencv. cvmrar~
the
a re
nil the ,eet n \'ea. lnmal a
-"
t

1m

>m~ Th

IS

UCtll

fand rk ....au

IS

used

to

fmlSh the Sduce-

usn e

351

Start the sate< e

' ,. 4 ,'uart S3ucep3n and cook over high heat until a nch caramel c(llm 3 to 4
PIa e t h e ugar m a h ea\ \ -"
.'
min'tantl\'
with
'1 wooden spoon; be careful not to let It burn. Add the rhuhtrb
ute,. tlrrmg a Im ('~ t co n ~
.
<
tlr' '1 e well coated then promptly add the consomme (not fond de 'l.'eau) , carrot,. celery leek
nnc untl I p\t~ce~ r
.
.
'.
allots'
cook
until
mixture
reduces
to
about
1
cup,
about
20
mmutes,
~tlrnnCl
{V'c
onion .. turnip . and sh
'
" "- a'e from heat and stram through chino is, using the bottom of a sturdy ladle to force as mu h
, Iona II '. Remo\
'
C
,
' bl Return to saucepan and cook over medium heat untll reduced to 1/2 CLIp ahout 15 m'
t h rough a, p OS I e.
"
In, 'de (Thl's rna" be done LIp to two days ahead; keep refngerated.)
utes. an ci ~et aSI .
1
L

'

To fini h the dish

Heat oven to 350. With a sharp thin-bladed knife. carefully trim away any green spots on the faie gras
cau_ed by contact with the gall bladder. eason both sides of the foit? gras \'ery generously with salt and pepper; et a'>lde.
In a medium ~i:ed bowl. combine all the mgredlent for this bral ing bed. Place the oil in a heavy
13 x 9-mch roasting pan and heat oyer hl\.!h heat on top of the ,rove (lbout 1 minute. Add the braisingbed mixture and .aute until It tart to brown, about 1 mll1utc". tining frequently. Add the consomme
and continue cooking and ,nrnng ab ut ,mmute more, tht:n mOllnd tht:., vegetables in the center of the
pan and place the fOle,g-ras on t p_ Rem \e rom heat nd c. I pm \\lth aluminum foil. pierce foil 2 or 3
time With the tiP of a p mted kmfe
te me me dp dunn' ) kmg. Bdke In the preheated oven for
mmute i then m mentaril~ n:m \ cpo fr m th )\ o. un )\ cr, <md turn fUle gras I ver with two turdy
rubber patuia to prc:\'t:nt marring th fi I
m )th uri ',b 'lOg \ CI) .ireful to keep It mtaer. Cover
the pan and contmue bakmg until do,
mmu c m rei do oot overcook, or the foie gras will
10 e It untque butterv texture. ("f, t t Jon , pi r
\\!th I thm wood ( r metal kewer; then
pre very gent!) ar,lund kc\\t'r hi. I JUIC. run It hd pmk, not clear and not hloody, it' done.}
Tran -fer [ore gra to a plate and 0\ r I
1 \\ Ith f, II t ke p \\ Inn \\ hI! flO I hlOg the aUCe.
To fml h the au e, pia e th r tin p n \\ Ith he br 1m' "quid n i vc et,lhle~ in it over high
heat n t p f the t \e and bnn t
II A d the
nd return to a hod; then continue bot I109 until
hqUld redu ed to about _ 3 cup.
u mlOut m reo Hmo' ace Ion lty. tram brai ing It4uld through
the chm I mt
bo\\i I, u m the bot m
turd 1
much through
po Ible. lum all
fat fr m urfa e and add rem 10m hyUld
th r ned rhuh rb u e Reheat auce and. if needed, let
It reduce t a thm auc COl ten
n t t te \\ Ith It od pepper od erve Immediately

To cnc
t

the
ni

gras cr \\ilse mt i-m h-thlck he

n the dlag mal. IX n 2 to 3 table poon
ng pl te and arr n e a lice f fi gras n t p f uce.

uceon

Charlie Palmer
AUREOLE
)()rk, N~u

IVeu

York

. h' 'ifically tuna. It's \'ery universal. You can do a lot of different stuff with tuna .
I. Fis ,spe~
Guinea fowl. AgalO, it's universal-and I'd get tired of eating chicken .

'

3. potatoe..S

I ((1uld live without rice or pasta, but not without potatoes.

1. Artichokes. There'~ a lot you can do with th~m-se~ve them with a \'inalgrette, or braised in broth
\\Ith ream, l1r roasted. or mannated, And their flavor 5 great-they're almost sweet.
j

Butter. From Egg Farm Dairy [the dairy in which Palmer i~ a partner], of course.

6. Spinach. It'~ wrsatile-I like it raw and cooked,

i. Chives. I'm era:y about chives,

S. Eggs. It Ilwlld be hard to li\'e without egg',
9. Apples. I could do without them, hut I'd have to ha\'e apple, for my two ~om., who love them.

10. Foie gras. hery tIIne AliCIa [Palmer\ wife)

ha~

[Ole gras,

It

put her

10

a good mood,

Charhe Palmer commenb, "I could make ~alr from the ocean, 0 I wouldn't h,l\'e to bring it. The island
II'QulJ probably ha\'e eoconut~"
I could get milk from them. And there'd probably be some source of
.;;ugar."

E v

"

l.

r e

353

--- -----

--

Fran~ois Payard
RESTAURANT DANIEL
Neu' York. Neu York

l\IAKING DESSERTS ON A DESERT ISLAND

lr-;GREDIENTS:

1. Meyer lemons. They're ama:ing to eat whole, skin and everything!

1
Dark chocolate. Chocolate that's aboutffl
60-70 percent cocoa-not extra-bitter [over 70 percent] (S
_.

Fran~ois Payard's Warm Chocolate Sou e recipe on page 355.)

3. Coffee. I dnnk about ten

to

twelve cups a day.

4. Nuts. I Io\'e pistachio nuts and macadamia nuts, which we don't use in France.

S. Red wine. A Burgundy or Bordeaux-I've only started to lo\'e white wine.

6. Armagnac. 1v1)' grandfather u~ed to eat prune" soaked in Armagnac.
7. Cognac.
8. Black figs. I prefer rhem

to

green fig .

9. Strawberries.

ll. Raspberries. 1 low t-erne!

------------_ -- -..

-.--...-. --_._-

)I

._-_.-

-. -- ---

. ee

Warm Chocolate Souffle

by
10

Fran~ois

Payard

IN[)IVI[)UAL SOUFFLES

10 ounces sweet butter

7 egg yolks
6 ounces granulated sugar

12 ounces extra bitter chocolate. cut in small pieces

7 egg whites
juice of 1/2 lemon
1 ounce granulated sugar

ten individual souffle cups. prebuttered and dusted with sugar

LIn a small pot over medium heat. melt butter and keep warm on the side. In a bowl. whip firmly the egg
yolks and the 6 ounces of sugar until it become whiter and foamier {about 6 minutes}. Pour hot butter
over the chocolate. mix well with a whip until chocolate is melted and then blend with the yolles and
sugar mix.

2. Whip 7 egg whites with the lemon juice. When they become tiff. add 1 ounce of sugar. Whip for a few
more minutes and then incorporate the chocolate and yolk mixture into the whipped egg whites. Gently
fold the two together with a spatula to keep the preparation light and foamy. Transfer the mix into the
cups.

3. Preheat the oven to 3500 Place the cup in a pan of water and cook for 5 to 6 minutes. Remove and
unmold onto the serving plate. The souffle can be served with whipped cream or ice cream on the side.

- - - - - - -Mark
- Peel
- - - - - -- - CAMPANILE
Los Angeles , California
INGREDIENTS:

1. Salt.
2. Bread. [After first saying, "Definitely salt and pepper-you need some seasoning," Mark later gave up
pepper in order to bring bread.]

3. Greens. Everything from spinach

to arugula ro collard greens-I love their flavor, their bitterness,

the

sharpness you get from their acid. In a diet, you need their vitamms and fiber.

4. Olive oil.
5. Potatoes.
6. Lemons. I'd take lemons over balsamic vinegar. Lemon is such a ba,ic flavor, and is so versatile; you
can use it on a salad, on a piece of chicken, on fi h.
7. Chicken. I 100'e ic \'er~atlhty. An I

1(\ gT<:dt

roa~ted \\ lth a cn~pv ~kin! (See Mark Peel's recipe for

Hert-ed Baby Chicken nn page' 357-35 .)

8. Thyme. I love thyme. It\ not an e l)(eTlC herb. It'- ul\Iver ,I. It cern to enhance the flavor of just
about everythmg-any cihh, exc pt f. r de ert: fl h, chicken, me It, p,l~td~, pl)!entas.
9. Onions. [Again, },1ark eltmm Ited III

n'm I h,)IC of cho l Idte In order to bring onions.) You haw

to have oni,ms!
10. Red wine.
"Remember, you're on a de ert 1 land, 0
~1ark commenL, "And pre umably

~ou're !:Otng

to have ,lit ,w,lilahle because it's m [he sea,"

'ou can get fl h."

T~( H

IQL

Eo

I. Grilling.
n
2. Roasting: I like [he navor of gullmg and roa,tmg. There are ,omt: thm!?' that It:nJ thern,el " co
gnllmg, ltke gnlled wh'lle fi~h mci other that lend [hem eke to ru,btlnt!, like roasteJ ChlLken.
3. Steaming. It\ a gentler methou of cookll1g thelt', rerfe t fur tt h, Vl:l!etahle" pot.HOC'.

--

356

----~

---

--

-~-

-~-----

-~-

Hcrbcd Baby Chicken (Poussin) with Lemon~ Thyme Butter

by Mark Peel
SER V ES

, -i came about backwards, I had a wonderful, crisp, buttery potato galette and wanted a tender and
Thl) Tel pe, k d' -h to complement It. A poussm (a slx-week-old chicken) has the tender texture that 1
, 'I chIC en IS
_
'
,
t13\l1r!U
'd' h but it isn't all that full-flavored, so a qUICk splash of lemon thyme butter IS tossed on to
i IT thiS IS "ent. To butterfly the chickens, the backbone must removed, but with
"
' .
\\;ln t l
a little practice, It
~dd an inten e acC
.. dfficult procedure.
"n t a I

Herbed Baby Chicken

4 baby chicken, about 1 pound each
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs (parsley and thyme)
kosher salt
fre hly ground black pepper

Lemon Th)1ne Butter

6 table pt)()n (3 ounce ) butter
2 large garlic clove, peeled and chopped (2 table poons)
ze t of 1 medium lemon, fmely chopped
2 table poon fre h lemon thyme leave
ko her -alt
fre hly ground black pepper
2 table poon fre h lemon juice
(conrmwd on ""Xl poetl

...

anutd

m Pt

lOU_' p.1g~

'fe remove the backbones and ribs from the chickens. Place each h'
1 U,mg a large, \'ery sh arp k nl ,
. . '
c tcken
. _,
. board' in ert the tip of the kmfe Into the cav ity as far as It will go L
breast side up on a cuttmg
,
. .
' . tne the
.II I th backbone and cut through the nbs on both sides of the backbone R
knife blade up para e to e
.
.
' emove
.
d h b kb
s of all the chickens. Spread each ducken out on the cutting board a J
and dlscar t e ac one
.
' n pres,

th the heel of yotlr hand, until the breastbone cracks, and the chicken '111'
down on eac I1 m turn WI
.
.
,
WI
Ie
k over and using your fmgers, pull out and discard the nbs.
flat. Turn eac h ch IC en
,
. . g bO\id marinate the chickens, refrigerated, with the olive oil and the chopped he b f
.
n
a
arge
mlxm,
.
r S Or
I
2 I2 to 3 hours. Remove 'the chickens from the refrigerator about 15 minutes
before cooking. Just prior to
cooking, season the chickens lightly With kosher salt and black pepper.
3. Start a fire m the grill and allow it to burn to medium-high temperature.
4. Grill the chickens skin-side down until the . kin is browned and cnspy, almost charred, about 6 to 8 minutes. Turn the chickens and place them on a parr of the grill that gives off only a moderate amount of
heat, so as not to burn them. Continue to grill the chickem lIntil they are firm to the touch all the way
through, about 15 to 20 minute longer. \X'hen the thH!h i rierced and the juices run clear, the chicken
is done.
5. In a casHron skillet melt the hutter O\'cr medium heat. \X'hen the hutter beginS to sizzle and foam, Just
before it browns, tir in the garltc and lemon :e t, rem ve the p n tmm the heat, add the lemon thyme,
and Wlr! bnefly. Correct the ed omg t
te \\ Ith k her ,h, blcl k perper, and up to 2 tablespoons
of fresh lemon juice.
6. To serve, put one chicken, km Id up,
chicken, and ~er\'e ImmeJldt l~ \\ Ith p

h plat
lien.

nd pi h

cl

little lemon thyme hutter over the

-----Michael Romano
UNION SQUARE CAFE
New York . New York

INGREDIENTS:

1. Olive oil. It'; what greases good cooking. You can take a can of mediocre soup, drizzle it with olive oil,
and it becomes a wonderful thing.
2. Bread. I have a hard time eating without bread near me-it's so basic.

3. Tomatoes. Only in the summer months.

4. Eggplant. It's close to home for me, and it's like meat in terms of what you can do with it.
5. Bitter greens---chard, dandelion, kale, mustard. I eat them daily. They're like a tonic-they make me
feel so good.

6. Wine. Both my grandfathers made their own wine, so we grew up with it as a part of our life. It's a
miraculous thing-it's incredible what can be made from grapes!

7. Lentils. There are so many different ones.

8. Salt-kosher or sea salt. Table salt has a sharp, stingmg, acrid taste.

9. Pepper. I love what It does for food, the warmth It

hrint.:~.

10. Arborio rice. (Romano first cho~e basm;m rice. then SWitched when he realized he couldn't make a

menu with the other mgredlent") Ba~ic to any cui;me IS some sort of starch and protein. And I'd
choose rice over potaroe;. (See Michael Romano\ reClpe for RLo[to d'Oro nn pages 360-361.)
Romann said, "I would give up all manner of meats and fi~h b:fore I'd give up vegetables." And he
appeared heart-hroken when he realt:ed he'd omlttcJ garlic from his list. He also wished aloud to have
taken herbs like hastl, chervtl, parsle " and rarra!,!on, anel 'pices like black cumin, cardamom, and nut
meg,
TEC.H lQL E :

L Sauteeing. It's the quicke;t wa\ to clll11hne ingreJienr'o, heat them throul!h, and get them nn a plate
qUICkly wlthnut altering them ~oo much.

2. Deep.fat frying. It h,b a homey kinel of feeling, yet done currecrly. it em be exqui,ire {,)r things like
calamari

. potatoe" tntter~.

1. tlrais'
I'
_
mg. t homey. It harken back to

E v

tnne when pe\)ple cooked WIth le~, expenSI\'e rYl'e~

n g

meat.

35

Risotto d'Oro
by Michael Romano
SERVE~

4-6

) C\..
,hThis golden-colored risotto looks convincingly like risotto alia Milanese, the saffron-infused Lombarl1,
IC. But appearance is where the similarity ends. Substituting fresh carrot and celery juices for the standard
chicken stock adds a gentle sweetness to this summery, alh'egetable risotto. A vegetable juicer makes thi
recipe convenient to prepare, but fresh vegetable juices are widely available in health food store . Ch nose
t
a white wme with lots of fruit to stand up to the sweetness of the carrot and celery Juices. Rlne
Chardllnnavs

from Australia and California \vill do the trick.

3 cups carrot jUice

3 cur~ celery JUICe

1/4 cup ohw Oil

1 3/4 LU

arb rl nce

1/_ [e~asJ:)()()n mm ed

rllC

1/2 cup \\ hlte \\ me

1/_ cup peeled. pllt len thw I
1/2 cup 1-10 h riC e

.'

carrot

nI

gre n

h n

1/2 ur rltt len th\\1 e and !tced zucchml

1/2 cup I/Z-mch piece

,1

P ra u l

-------------~-~~~

)U

'h end dl carded

1/2 cup liced red bell pepper

1/2 cup fresh shelled peas
1/3 cup liced scallions

4 tablespoons butter

3/4 cup finely grated Pannigiano-Reggiano

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/8 teaspoon fre hly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

l.ln a saucepan. combine the carrot and celery juices and bring to a immer.
2. In a 3.quart skillet heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the rice and garlic and stir together until
the nee IS coated with the oil. Add the white wine and bring to a boil, tirring constantly until the W6le
is absorbed by the rice. Add the carrots and the green beans to rice.

3. Ladle 1/2 cup ci the hot juice mixture into the saucepan and tir until it is absorbed. Continue wi.
rest c:i me juace, addmg more liquid. The constant tirring allows the rice to release its starch into the
COIl.... liquid, resulting m the characterIStIC nsono creammess. When 3/4 of the juice has been wed,
abwt 15 to 20 mmutes. stir in the retnamlng vegetables. Contmue ladling and tiffing in the remainiaI
JUICC, about 10 additional mmutes. The grains of nee hould be al dmte.

4. Swirl m the butter, 3/4 of the Pailillgtano, and season with the salt and pepper. Serve the ruotto ....""
k1ed with panIey and the retnamlng PanmguU\o.

Anne Ro ... en:\\cig

ARCADIA ,mel THE LOBSTER CLUI'>
.\i~u \ink. Neu York

I C;RlIllE T":

1 Chocolate-covered pretzels. It', the perfect food-yin and yang, sweet and salty, crunchy and
creamy-all at once.

2 Milk. It's the perfect drink with the perfect food.

3. Butter. \X'hy? I'm the butter queen of New York. It's an essential thing for good cooking.
4. Kasha. From my rootS-It'S a homey, ethnic thmg.
). Onions. Like hutter, It's a basic, es~entlal ingredient-and there are Itlt~ of ways to eat them. You can
lise them (or f1an)r, or as a vegetable.

6. Lobster. It's my favorite protein nght n \\'.

7. Corn. I Just had ~ome roOl'ted corn .H a 'treet ('Hr, ,lOd

It

\\'a~ gre,H~

Pasta. Eventually you'll get ttred (f eve!) hing e1,e, anJ ,all c, n h,we It With jw,t butter.

9. Tomatoes. I'll needome vegetahle , and the e r~ health} ,lOti Dood.

10. Steak. h\ my . econd-i. \orne protem.

It nJ perper, too--"llldtlen

Ro en:weig aid ,he\ neak .11 n

1 EUI IQl
L Sauteeing. It' the mo~t fun, and} u

In

2. Roasting. It' a techOlque that bnng

lit fla\OT .

3. Grilling. It' e \. and It' fun

111 1l1} OOion

u (: a I [of flO

c. It'- ver~ Inllliecir,ltc.

!"

---

Chris Schlesinger
THE EAST COAST GRILL

Cambridge. Mas.sachusetts
INGREDIENTS:

1.

Salt. You can't make food taste good without salt.

2. pepper. I love pepper-salt, pepper, and ginger make things taste good.

J. Lime juice.

4. Hot sauce. I like it to spice up food-I'm not really impressed with subtlety in food. I'd take EI
Yucateco (hot sauce].

5. Baron. I could make a salad with the bacon fat and lime juice-and some tomatoes.

6. Gnens. I like leafy greens, like baby collards and kale. I use it as lettuce as well as in cooking.
7. Ginger. It's a nice, fresh spice.
8. Oysters. It's my favorite type of seafood. I like the East Coast variety, which are salty and briny, as
opposed to West Coast oysters, which are more ubtle.
9. Tomatoes. I like really nice, fresh tomatoes. I'd make a salad to go with the oysters.
10. Sweet potatoes. They're versatile and tasty, and you need a tarch to balance dinner.

Schlesinger also commented that if he caught, for example, a beautiful striped bass out of the ocean,
"It's good to just cook that with salt and pepper and put a little bit of lime on it. A lot of food is good
just as food; we're not obligated to do a lot to it. And if I had fish, I'd wish I had some mangoes, which
are my favonte &uit, to go with it."
TECH IQUE :

1. GriD; ........

15 k

1 love it. To me, grilling means cooking. I love the connection to live fire.

Esco&ier def4w::a1ril1ina
2. %t+fa
or

a..

3. in hia pi

1"-__

"the remote starting point of our art."

fried fcoJi

_____L'_ _

apecially the crispy <.:JUI1I;IIUKaD UI tt.

ita b -_ .b..L..
-'lent wnen
.L
he rea1'--..l
beer, and offered to trade
anulUl mpcu
ucu he hadn't L-...l.t
u ........

..... 1IcJ. . . Any kind of cold herr but paddably Samuel Adams."

Chili-Ginger ,IUce
YIELD: 1 CLP

1/2 cup red wine vinegar

juice of 3 limes
1 tablespoon fresh hot pepper (your choice), finely chopped

1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced

2 tomatoes, finely chopped

Cook all ingredients O\'er low flame for 5 minutes, Let cool.

Wilted Greens with

moked Tomato, Bacon Bit., clOd Lime Dressing

1/2 cup bacon bib (fry 'em up)

Juice of 2 lim

mixed with n little leftover bacon fat

alt and pepper to t, te
1 head wa hed chicory
1 head wa hed kale

6 plum tomato , moked over low fire on grill and cooled

H,eat bacon fat with lime juice, salt, and pepper.
slightly wilt d
'h

e, erve

Wit

TO_5

hot dre 109 over washed greens and tosS greens until

smoked tomatoe and bacon bit-.

A h-Roasted

\\ eet Potatoe

4 5wet!t potatoes, washed and wrapped in foil

Plac e POtatoe
In

coals and cook until they are oft. Cut up large or mash
---~--------~

to

eat.

----=- - "-- --

'""ng

t1

Lv

365
5

"

Jimm'l

chmidt

THE RATTLESNAKE CLUB

DetrOIt. Michigan

INGREnJE. TS:

1. Chile seeds. Chiles are really adaptive; you can use them for coloration, heat, spiciness. You can coosume them fresh or dried. With the peppers, you wouldn't need as much salt in the food-and 1 hate

bland food.
I

Grape seeds. You've got to have wine. While you'd have to find a variety that would do well in that climate, llove pinot noir. You can make white or red from pmot noir pretty effectively. And at the second
dosage, you could ferment It and ha\'e Champagne!

3. \\~eat. Obviously, you'd need wheat for breadmaking, and pasta. 1 think that's a very important staple.
4. Com. 1l00'e com-you ha\'e to love com if you grow up m Illinoi. Com' a good storage food; it grows
really qUickly, and it's very high Yield. And you can roast it, boil it, bake it-you can do a hundred different things to it.
J.

Tomatoe . They're very adaptable-you can m ke a alice l)ut of them, you can eat them raw, you can
dry them and put them into .alad- and auce- They've t \.;0 d, high <Kid.

6. Potatoes. Thev're a great staple. You n I11cch them, you can u l: potato rarch for thickening, you can
make gratm~, ()f fry them- au can d ) ton of Ifferent thma to them.
7. Citrus- limes. For \,iramin C. I like them ill, but 1\.1 probabl~ take Illne . I thmk they're the most adaptive i0r hemg blended with other thmg . I Itk bmes better tho n lerm m, .lOd I think they gll better with
the chtle', They add d char eten-tlc th t I be}ond cmu It elf. Or.mge. are not that concentrated,
\\ hlCh b why I pa~,ed over th m.
- - - - . . . . ...

;+

S.

...... it

!lP k't p
b

9. G

a salad or as a vegetable, or for fillings in ravioli, or for .... AaIlJI:W..

10m cl iron. And it grows very quickly.

r.e .",10 have prlic. Besides .that, it's good for you. It's a great flavor enhancer Oft . , . .
__ It ..., very arable. And It protects you from vampires'

~~-

.... In .FOCI ovaall herb. I wouldn't say that it's my favorite-Ilike cilantro, llik.e thyme . . lie II
10 ...,.liaIfe
(love them all. But you can tum basil into a sauce, whereas you can't

.'0Il'

!he ........

"WhIP- the ' , Ad?" Schmidt asked. "You could get salt from the water, so that rakes C8Ie eX _ AIIII
you CDII&t
'*D ... OC I'''' Since I grew up 01\ a farm, I'm covering all my blm h l _ __
......... 1
And I love coriander, even though I don't have it 01\ my list."

do"'"

TECH IQUE :

.... cleYelqaEnt: You get a lot cl flavor off the wood on what you'1e

I.

k'I .............
In_ And ~lleIDperabR ml _

cl mIn and hee '

1 do lib the hich:temperature effcca cl_iDg ml"......

cI ....,

-----.--Lind ey

.--..--- -

here

'-

--~----

CHEZ PANISSE

Berke/c)'. Cahfrmua
INGREDIENTS:

1 Sheep. For (hee~e and meat.

, Wheat. It'> a ~taple of one's diet-I could never live without hread or cereal.

-'

3. Corn. \'m an Italian. and I like my polenta.

&. 5. Apple tree and pear tree. I love them hoth. And they're comtantlv1 usabl e,. I cou Id eat th e frUlt.
ire'h. or cooked. or even make liqueur from them.

1I

6. Grapes. To ha\'e wine.

i A pig. I love pork.

S. Salad greens. A \ariety. or any kmd .
9. Chickens. I love egg .
10. An orange or tangerine tree. It' a tla\'or I really lm'e a lot.
When reminded that .he could brmg al ng ea mn o

Shere re ponded, "I don't need ~eas()l1ings. If

you have omethmg that'.; wonderful, you don't need to da a lot to It."

TE

IQLE :

1. Baking. How could you have brc. d If you couldn't bake, not to mention the oc(a.,ional apr Ie tart. fruit
ens!" and cake?
1

-. tovetop pot-cooking. I'd want to be dble to make cu.-tard and

~oup- and stocks.

3 Cook'
f
h
.
h
' '( tOO hot to cook inside!
.
mg over ire coal. F r vanet . and flavar-and t ere are time ( at It ~ JU"

369

E "

n 9

Cu

,,6

L dia Shire
BIBA and PIGNOLI
Boston. Massachusetts

I ' (,REUlE! T":

1. Garlic. Ilo\'e garlic. It's my fa\'orite thing in the world. (See Lydia Shire's recipe for Crab Fldeo with
Broken Garltc O il on pages 371-372, which she characterizes as "major garlic!")

2. Olive oil. Garlic and olive o il go h and in hand.

3.

alt. I cannot eat food Without -alt-it has :ero flavor. Salt might actually be my number one choice.

4. Bacon. I IO\'e good bacon . I love fat.

5. pasta. paghetti gc'es great with o!i\'e o il and garhc-it's my comfort food.
6. Mavonnai e. I'm a closet mayonna i e eater. I can eat mayonnabe sandwiches.

i.

pinach. I crave pinach.

~ Broccoli rabe. I crave !,!reen - I lo ve their bmeme

9. Lemon. I u e lemon .. hke alth .. Beef. To have a creat tea , With

flav r enh ncer.

t-n thmOel e qUite r'~.oC It ~ rOle.
mmel

If gl\ en
Tl:

1.

aut eing. It' a gr at, qUic

meH

he
'lute htr
te mm per n."

10\..1: :

c()()km th t 1Ote~ IfIe the fla\'or on the seared ide.

I m m the ummer?

2 Frving. \x'hat' bert r th n

3. Roa ting. Th

u e.

a hi ken r.UdC~l1O_
the char

10

ur h use I

e f the top mells m the world.

\ la\ r Imparted by gnllmg, he admit, "I'm not much of

2-inch pieces. Toss in 1/4 cup olive oil and bake 11\
oven until lightly golden. This should take 5 to 8 minutes. Be careful not to let the noodle get too

t Break 1 pound Goy.l fideos into approximately 135

to

brown.

4. Boil fideo in crab stock until al dente. Drain in colander. Set over bowl. Reduce 4 cups of liquid to 1 cup.
Re erve.

5. Rub a hallow ca serole dish with a cut clove of garlic and butter lightly. Arrange the cooked noodles
tossed with the picked-over crab meat to a depth of 1 inch. You may need two casseroles. It is ill\portant
that the noodle only be 1 inch high.
0

6. Drizzle the noodle with the reserved cup of tock and bake in a 400 oven until the top is crispy and the
rock absorbed.
7. The beauty of thi di h is the contrast of the crisp noodles on top, and the soft and somewhat dty under
neath.
. Pass the broken garlic oil separately, as your guests will want different amounts.

Bn*m Garlic Oil

1 ancho chale

priac, peeled

1 cup

tra

VlfIUl olave oal

t

black pepper

a._

pan for S minuta till

101. sL:JWlv for 45 manures.,...&ld. Slowly drizzle into the
c1q1Pinl wkh knife. Add

0"

Rea.

Nancy Siherton
CAMPANILE

Loss Angeles. CalifornIa

L (;RE.PH

T~:

1 Salt.
Pepper. I real'"I think that,
-' jlent and salt and pepper.
1

to

make something good, you don't need anything more th an a goo d .mgre-

3. Arugula.

4. potatoes.
j.

Olive oil.

6. Bread. [Silverton gave up her original choice of balsamic vinegar in order to bring bread.]
7. Parmesan cheese. Everything about a baked potato, olive oil. Parmesan, and arugula with salt and pepper is so satisfying that I always say I could eat thi every day for the rest of my life.
8. Dried pasta. I love dried pata. I love the texture, the toothines . I love fresh ravioli, but too many
tlme fresh pasta is gummy. It' not alway a benefit ro make it fre h.
9. Coffee. I have to have coffee. (..,ee! ancy ~ilverton' recipe for Coffee Ice Cream on page 374.)
10. Red wine. I need red wme.
St!verton asked, "b It a HawaiIan i land? Do I ha\'c ro bnng .ugar, or

Tf

IQl f

there sugar cane there?"

l. Sauteeing. It's very quick and it' very Imple-and the re ults can be delicious.

2, Boiling. I love pasta-and coffee.

3. Braising. I love the cuts of meat that lend them -elves ro being brai ed, and the results.
"I
. h out deep frying. Grilling .IS Olce,
.
butI d on 't ha\' e to h'e
I can eas'lI Y I'Ive Wit
a\ it . And I could easily
.
~ve Without SWeet. For obviou reason, I love baking because of what I do--but not necessanly
ecau e of what I eat."
--- -

--

-.~--.----

373
E

(.

J'

Coffee Ice Cream

by Nancy Silverton
YIELDS 1 QUART

A coffee flavor at the end of a meal can be doubly pleasing; it can satisfy the desire for both coffee and
dessert. Our coffee ice cream has an intense coffee flavor, much more so than traditional coffee ice cream
because we use no eggs and less cream. It may not be quite as smooth, but I find it more refreshing.
Crush the coffee beans with a rolling pin or with the back of a pan. Do not use a grinder or food
processor because the resulting grind is too small and it causes the ice cream to take on an unpleasant
gray color. I find that decaffeinated beans produce a smoother ice cream than regular coffee beans.

41/2 cups whole (4%) milk

1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar

1 1/2 table poons com syrup

1/2 cup decaffeinated coffee bean~, e .. pres,o roa"t, crushed
1 1/2 tea poem, coffee extract or instant e'pres,ll
1. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, brmt:! the mIlk, ere. m. !;ranulated ~ugar, com syru[" and coffee beans to a bod. Bod gently. ttrrint:! cantm u Iy u lOt:! .1 mbber p.Hula. reducmg until the mixture
ha_ thickened very ,lightly, about _ to 2 ~ ITltnUtl: \\ Ith ufflclent bo Iy to provide an envelopmg nchneo;'i, as 0['1'0 ed to a water~ mdkme ,In )ur m uth.

2. Remove the ~aucer<l!1 from the heat, dJ the c ttce extr trIO t. nr (1re"o, and mix just to cnmhme
U-ing a fine me h (,l1nlt: 'teel tramer, trclln the mIxture Into a 1.lrge mlxmg howl and .dlm\' w coni
at lea t 15 mtOure , then refn ...er te or t lea t; mmute. 1)1 ard the cotfee beam.
km h ormed on (he CTC<lITl, ,imply tJr it bclck lI1to the
mixture. Pour the cooled cream mixture lOt the contamcr of n I e cream freezer. Fn:eze ( cor:lm J to
the manu(Clcturer', 10 tru tiM . Re rVe {he I e cream 10 thc Ice cre.tm to hll1c Lont.lln r until nee Jed.

3. Remove the mixture (rom the re rt(!e tor. If

en e the Ice crcam \\ Ithm 1 r 2 h ur ( ree:m ....

the freezer-It become ( hard nJ r. m .

1-

per nail made Ice cream

doe not keep \ ell

to

Joachim pliehal
PATINA
Los A~les, Ca/iforrua

I GREDIE TS:

choa,..re IltJCe.

aood for me. I like to eat them just seared, with salt and pepper

WIlleD makmg a coulis. It's a nice taste.

, 1'_ wilb -Bt pepper, olive oil, balsamic vinegar and onion.

E
_ _d. It

thear natural flavor.

wbIII ~ aIllbOliJt.

~~~t

..... _ndIlolDI-diaco)lJ'q a bis pIeCe d

meat or a suckling PII

---

-- - Potato and Forest Mushroom Lasagna vith Nage Butter auce

-

by Joachim Splichal
I thmk this dish can challenge any lasagna made from conventional pasta, and the technique of making

II
ite easily mastered once you have done It two or three times. The recIpe
tender
potatod'sh eets 15t rea y fqumushrooms but in a pinch you could use 3/4 pound of one kind of mush
r r
li
ca IIs lor lour lllerent
ypes a
'
room, although, of course the flavor will not be as rich. You could cook the potato layer earlier in the day
and leave them, covered with the parchment paper, until just before assemblmg the dIsh.
SERV ES

Potatoes

1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted

salt and freshly ground white pepper
2 large Idaho potatoes, peeled and trimmed into approximately 3-inch by 2-inch blocks
(reserve the trimmings in a bowl of cold water ro make mashed potatoes, if desired)
Preheat the oven to 350. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and brush them with some of the
melted butter. Sprinkle a little salt and pepper onto the paper. With a mandoline or a sharp knife, cut the
potato blocks carefully crosswise into 1/ -inch-thick rectangles (each potaro should yield 9 to 10 slices) and
arrange them in a single layer on the baking heet'" Brush the ,lice~ well With the butter and sprinkle with
a little more salt and pepper. Co\'er with another heet of parchment paper and bake for 12 to 15 minutes
or until fork-tender. Set aside, on the hakiof.: hee~.

Mu hrooms
1/4 cup unsalted butter
1 1/4 cups (3 ounce) thinly ~ltced white mushroom, stems removed
1 1/4 cup (3 ounce:) thinly ltced ,hlltake mu,hroom" ,tems removed
1 1/4 cup (3 ounce,) thinly heed oy~ter mu~hrooffi'~, tems removed
1 1/4 cups (3 ounce thinly heed chanterelle or porcini mushroom~, If available
1 large ,hallot, finely chopped
1 tahlepoon finely chopped chl\'e:>
air and fre hi)' ground white repper

---

Jeremiah Tower
STARS and J.T.'s
San Frannsco. Cahfomia
INC,REDIE . T<;:

1. Potatoes. They're so flexible-sugared, with milk, 1 could even make a dessert of them. And I could
make vodka.
2. Turbot. It's my favorite fish, and makes a fabulous stock. It's very, very delicate with a very pure taste.

3. A cow, pregnant with a male calf. For milk and beef.

4. Sugar. [ could use it to cure pork and to make rum.

5. Olives. 1 could make olive oil from them and use them for flavoring. I love them-and they're very
nutritious.
6. Seed packet: a Burpee "Grand Slam" cornucopia of seeds. \Vith seeds for thyme, beans, citrus, tarragon, parsley, lettuces, chile pepper~, and. orne kind of grain (hke buckwheat).

7. Lamb. It's the meat I can eat the mo t and not get tired of. PiLL I'd have wool and lanolin.
8. Mangoes.

9. Grapes. I could make wine, anJ Jry them

[0

m ke ral,lru. And I could make vmegar.

10. Pork. I couldn't live without a pi\!. I ad re ham and bacon < nJ thing~. ( ee Jeremiah Tower's reClp~
for Roast Pork Lom on page " 379-3 l.)
Tower commented that he coulJ m k III

wn

lr.

TH. H \(Jl E :

1. Grilling. Over hvc fuel-then I could 1 0 cook b) pi -roa tin '.

2. Boiling/poaching.
3. Braising. In a pot in a fire.

78

Roa t Pork Loin Stuffed with Ham and Rosemary

hy Jeremiah Tower

ed from Ja ne Gngson\ excellent hook

. on charcuterie that if you brine pork fur a day he fore cookmg

sure way to guarantee mOl~t and very flavorful pork, as long as you do not overcook Lt.
I[ yt)U h~~ that pork can be very slightly heige-pink and still he safe in terms of trichinosis, the trichinae
me01
Re. biled at .a meat internal temperature of 137 degrees. This dish could be served with a warm veg'etable
being
d e pers, black-eyed peas, or red cabbage salad.
)[e ll', roaste r p
[learn

'e a

ERVES

3 pounds center-cut pork loin

1/4 cup salt

1/4 cup ~ugar
2 liuart water
2 bay leave
I table poan all pice berries
1 tabl poon dried thyme
2 clove gariJc, left whole
2 large hallot , finely chopped
, tahle p

n oltve OIl

1/2 pound country ham or prosciutt ,fmely chopped

2 tabl poon fr h ro em.try leaves, finely chopped
ait and fre hly round pepper
1 cup chicken tock
2 table poon D1)On- tyle mu tard
4 table poon butter

1. Trim the loin so that there i only 1/4-inch fat on top. Mix the alt, ugar, water, bay leave, all ~ice'l and
thYme'In a pan and heat until the alt and ugar are dl. J 1ved j l
P ut the loin in a pan JU t arge6
et I
coo.
~ough to hold it and the liquid and pour the brine over the pork. Let marinate overnight or at lea t
Ur In the refrigerator.
(conanud "" ntxt ~I

379

Norman Van Aken

NORMAN'S
Coral Gables. Florida
I NG REDI EN T S:

. and
1 .....
.........m.. Plantains were theIIfirst fruit I had in Key West that caused me to marve1
at "
this cUISine
. to (eel trUSt that there were a -new avenues for me to experience.
Z. MIl s er ~th~elY're. the right kind, and at their juiciest, they're the most perfect fruit I've ever
~ an
elr USClousness.

J. BlIck. P....
. CCIC IlL All d the ~dients I'm mentioning are part of such a welcomeness I felt when I first got
here- It made my cookmg accelerate and become distinguished from cooking from anywhere else in

AJDerica.
5. SnIt cod, or lNIcafoo.

It's such a part of the Caribbean tradition, probably because it's the absolute
oppoaite ri the fresh fOO it would be so impossible to choose among.

6. O
7. a 'rs I'd want the pungency and bite that ginger and chiles would provide. And there's such a broad
... ri &a,a. in c:hilea. One ci the most common chiles that we would use here [at Norman's] would
be ScM b bonnets or habet\ero&, which are definitely distinct from jalapenos or serranos, in that the
&aIiry and incredible aroma they have is so much different from the other chiles. Ginger and chiles
wM:tclemer. well as raonate with each other in a very clear way. The flavors bounce quickly back
... iJnb bee.! m each other. They're sort of standing on the side like a little chorus that provides a
iJiws'tr ~ to "rock the boat" or the dish.
8.

One ci the key thangs that creates the opportunity for a sauce or a dish to work is the
to provide relief from the meaty richness of the dominant protein or the BOftening
IIIiiCh. 1be benefit ci citruS on the island is that I could also drink. it. I'd have a hard
tJ.lIIIlic YiN pro

When I first got here, I ask~,

L ___ ..L..___ .
used .
--'-ina To this dav one d the
becaule ci I aDUlJlUilll~' It got
an CVIRY ... --e
" .
my menu is a conch chowder. It's become emblematic d my cookinI (See
' -_elDeb Conch Q,owder on pages 383-385.)
hit favorite animal d all. I gueII that' because you can 10 many
L... _ _ and ribI and ......Ir tendmotn......twJe between ~.
.,..,....
est, like my son was, are called conches

u:e

t an d 0 ranges
'- nu,
cracked..Hacked Conch Chowder with Saffron , CI)CO
by Norman Van Aken
YIELD

10

80UNCE PORTION~

For the shellfish broth/cream and garni sh

1/4 cup olive oil
1 Scotch bonnet, stem and seeds discarded, minced
6 shallots, peeled and sliced thinly
4 clove of garlic, peeled and sliced thinly
12 mall clam , scrubbed
12 mussels, scrubbed and de-bearded
1 star anise
1 table poon roughly cracked black pepper
3 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1 scant table poon affron
1 quart heavy cream
1 cup coconut milk

1. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed aucepan over medium-high heat. Add the Scotch bonnet, ballots, and garlic. Stir. Let vegetable flavor the oil (about 1 minute). Then add the clams, mussel , star anise, and black pepper. tiro Then add the orange juice and cover the pot. Remove the clams
and mussels as they open to a colander set over a bowl to catch the liquid. (They start opening after
about 3 minutes; just take them out a they open and cover the pot again and keep checking for more

open ones.)
2. Allow the orange and shellfish juice to reduce, uncovered, until about 1 cup 0 fl"d
. about
IqUi remams,
~~minutes: Now add the saffron, heavy cream, and coconut milk. Allow ~o .boil.. s~irring occasionally.

hac careful, cream can boil over in a plit second.) Reduce the cream until It will JU t barely coat the
c kofaspoon (about 15 to 20 minutes ).Tum off and strain. Discard the solids and reserve the flavored
MeanWhile, take the cooled mussels and clams out of their hell, reserve the meat, and tOSS the

:;:n0

Ua.

(conUnutd on ntxt ".".)

--------------------------~---(I

/I

----For the \peg t"hle

Irni

6 new potatoes, scrubbed and diced medium

1/2 cup of pure olive oil
2 ounces smoked slab bacon, rind removed, about 1/2 cup
4 cloves garlic, sliced thinly
1 poblano chile, stem and seeds discarded, minced
1/2 red onion, peeled and diced medium
2 large carrots, peeled and diced medium
1/2 bulb fennel, cored and diced medium
2 celery stalks, cleaned and diced medium
1 red bell pepper, stem and seeds di carded, diced medium
1 ear com, kernels cut off the cob
1/4 cup roughly chopped cilantro leaves
2 bay leave , broken
air and repper to

ta~te

1. Put potatoes to a small saucepot of It!!htl~ alted water. Bnn~ to a boil and tum down heat; simmer till
Just underdone (this only take~ a few minute", inee [he potaroe are <0 small).

2. In a large heavy soup pot, cook the bacon With [he ohve 011 over medium-high heat until bacon is halfway cooked. Add the garlic and chile and <tir bndly. Add the re t of the vegetables except the poratoesi
stir to coat, add salt and pepper; Cilantro, and bay leaf. Cook until firm, smnng occasionally (ahout 8
mmutes). Add potatoes, saffron cream, clams, and mussel,.

384

;/4 p' HIIllI

~,lIr

cl '~lIled, pounded (linch

,lilt! Pl'I'lwr, til r,,"ll'

1/4 LlIl' fllllli

2 egg~ Iwarl'11 with 4 te:"p()on:, of half,and,half

1 1/2

I.

(111'"

panko crtllnh..

S,'N,ll till' l,lIll h \l'1t h ,II r :111,1 l'lJ'per, Nil\\' dre~lge the (on( h pil'\.:l-' in t he nom, then thl' l' 'g. , :md
thl'lll11 till' p.1tl k" , Pl,ll"e them ,111 :t I.uge (,Life, 'Iou (an layer Ihem t! you 'l'p~lrate the hreaded pll'ce
\\lth

II'.IX p,II'l'r ,H 1'1.1 I iL 11m!"

10 fini h the dish

I. [kit till'

IIntii qUite \I,mll Nf)\\ heell ,I Llrgl' bllet ,l1\d S,llItl- the c()nch until nlldy culmed on
I",th 1,le, !\l'tll<l\l' It) p,,, C'r t()wd lInlil all the ,meh t look"d, N,,\\' qllKkly c!h)1' thl' c()uked lllnch
IIlt"I'leu'" I_I,IIL' till' ~oup Int,) " .. trill I owl ,\Od ,l(!cr the ('\loked e,l!) h ll\'C'r thl' "HIp,
stiliI'

~ote: AIl\ lI11cook d, brlelded ('ooch rt k turnmg (.olm o\'crmght It

1'e,I,'elllcJ L! tr,\ ,l1ld "dd II to till ollk ,d <lUI or ,nc for leftl)\' r , AI
l'tlll,an "II ,Illll' llr II ,Ii h, \t,mdhalt an I ed n ,\g, In to t,) te,
uanmhNotc 11th til
Ilk

g,\r!1\

h dl\~

(UP

\11th Or'.lO

tI 11

hc t to lonk :my l"!lnlh t1ut 1ll.IY

0, for all' chock!lllloi. tufi ( lip,

,to, tcJ (

nl1llt,

(\\lc\,

Clll\l'IIIIW,

"ltron

('I'

Alice Waters
CHEZ PANISSE
Berkeley. California

I GREDIENTS:

1.8~
2. Olive oil.
3.

Garlic

4. TomatoeS- (See Alice Waters' recipe for Pasta with Tomato Confit below.)
5.}{erbe Basil or rosemary, perhaps.
6.

Salad greeo.--Wild rocket or chicories.

7. NoodIet-Any kind. I had great soba noodles recently, and I love Italian pasta.
8. CitnJI. I like citruS a lot-everything from limes to blood oranges.
9. Pip. I like them fresh. I like baking fish in fig leaves, which give it a coconut-like flavor and is very
aromatic. And I like cooking over fig wood.
10. Nuts. It's hard to choose

probably almonds or walnuts.

TECH

IQLE :

1. Cooki.. over fiftlpminB- I'd cook over a fire all the time. It feel somehow fundamental.
2. Wood -uiua 0eD. I love the flavors it imparts.

1 Seut~I! .Inpediena can come together very quickly; you can marry things in a hurry.

Pasta with Tomato Confit

by Alice Waters

: -about two n"-l ea pu aerving. Make a bed of basil leaves in the bottom of an ovenpr~ dish that
Ihe hold .. " 'll ea ....,. an one layer. Peel and core the tomatoes and place them core-slli~ down on
and pep-Jer. Pour in enough extra virgin olive oil to come halfway up the sides ofl:
L......"'1 the
are soft and lighdy carame
....11/2 hours an a pretw .ted 3SOO oven, untl
tomatoes
cooked and drained
oil with their perfume. Son on to taSte and .erve spooned over

tot...... J 'jlcIy

....--IIIfQ......

aQd.....

cu'

.,

L_-mint or basil or thyme. It would make my food have some extra dl'
,
9. tleru-r- .-mens Ion.
ove com. 1grew up eating com; it's a very satisfying vegetable for me It's k' d f
hI
10. Corn 1l
.
10 0 a starc vegetable.

"I can make my own. salt; I could .boil ocean wat,er in a pan. My mind is racing now-I'm thinking
about ginger and garlic. I guess Pekmg duck doesn t fit. And you can tell I'm not a dessert person," says
White.
TH.H

IQlE :

1. Grilling. I love the flavor of the grill-that wood flavor. I like what the intense heat can do, the way
it caramelizes the fat on the outside of meat and kind of chars the hells of shellfish. It's not just the
flavor that the grill adds to the food, but it' the way it brings out the flavor in the food, too, and kind

of seals it in.
2. Pan-frying. It' a good way to seal m flavor. The other good thmg i it' a technique I can use to introduce fat into the food.

3. Boiling. You need a versatile way

Ie. food . You can make oup and broths.

--~--~---------

I think of food as an experience,

not as an entity or a product, and
.,s gIve
. n me a tremendous edge.
It
I think of it as performance art,
and of every detail as bemg
equally important. The whole
. ce has to be conscIOUS.
expenen
So the chef needs to emerge as
the controlling influence from
the kitchen and direct the entire
production, keeping it all on the
same level."
O'Connell observes that more people are regarding the restaurant
experience as theater. "And it's either a good play or a bad play. It's fresh or
it's tired. And it's genuine or it's fake. More and more, it seems to boil down
to that for me," he says. "It's either right or it's wrong. And you're continually aiming for that right-on feelmg."
Certain chefs belteve that some of food's expressiveness has been lost
due to its abstraction from it~ meaning in ltfe and Its meaning in society.
"What we've done i: demeaned It by crcatmg celehrity chefs anJ hot restaurants,"ay Mark ~1iller. "\Ve\'c tnpped it of ~()me of its po. ~ibilities, and
some of It humanne " and ~ me of Ib 'ensuallty-it~ simplest level of an
expenence. Too many y ung chef: .ue t cerllng what the meJia has promoted food and the re taurant inlu,try
hem' ahour."
Cuimary C:lrt~t ,on the Other hand, un ler t, nJ the multifaceted potcntial wlthm th dinmg exp ncn e. "AI Forno t , comhmatlon of things-I
don't thmk YOll can pm mt any parr I ular a peer of the expertence. We
started with the front door, an gave thought to the entrance ,md working
your way through the re tauram-the VI 1I, I ,the mel!, a tlvdting all the
:en e . " ay George German. "J thmk we h ve everythmg workmg tn the
same ireellon, 0 chat we try to m ke the pI ture complete."
Johanne KIlleen poin out, "George de igned everything In the re tau'
rant, mclu mg the equipment. There' a umt)' to the look of the re murant
and the look of the food. We've h d toral control." Germon add, "And
beeause we are
el -contamed. In that we d about 99 percent of e\er,'
thmg our:,ch'e It really I a pure vi Ion."
:usan Femger ) that at Border Gnll With partner Mary ue Mllirken,
"We've aIwa) been huge believer that eVeT)thtng matte~\el1thm tr}(ll
the \'aIet to the bathr m to the busbo) t the wbl' ttln It' n t that th
ha\e to be f ncy, but there IS a cuttmg cd t th m. In the be tnnlng ~ "r
reall extreme bout e\el)thmg that \\ P n f th
tual t ng perLeno,t:

h: covel. hut you go in the bathroom and it's The art of the t bl
,
a e goes beyond merely putting
II
uTIlere 's t h IS
' contll1uum
.
'C'J 10
""1\''' ~ It <'r.
even recipes Into pra r
c Ice; It embraces good manners
/ill hI'' I" e restaurant. that you need to ha\'e at' some the balance of the menu, the skills of being a '
. hln t 1
"
lIlt
11" srnelb and t10wers and chll1<l and texture
h ost and of best
' that privileged
orgamZlng
yei--'.
b
Il
"lis ~ltrrors are Important, ecause they moment when a
' shared With guests or
mea I IS
1 \'I'U. .'
In' he -,ociabtlity back-people looking at other family.
bong t
, InW each ot h er. "
- Curnonsky
~llr It,
, . ' .
.
r .....'t Its" best, a restaurant tnes to commul1lcate somethin g about wh 0 and
, is-and that It cares about the people who are d"
h
\rhJt It .
. '
ll1Lng t ere.
coes.
about It m a different
way, but it's ultimately a question
. 0f
''I'en'one '
'
')U e10 mantpulate [a dmer] mto a state of euphoria using a broad
hl'\\' \ l
'
,spec.
[rum, the complete palette," say~ .Patrick O'Connell. "I think young c h ef s Ln
rarticular feel limited to the ~onfmes of the plate. I have been astonished at
[he Impact that mmuscule thmgs will have on the press and on chents-just
bemg a htde playful in the wording of the menu, letting them know that
we're not stuffy. They want to feel that the people behmd the restaurant are
harlng fun, wo. Once agam, they're seeing a personality. That's basically
what the publtc IS :,eeing on a plate, hut they may not be adept enough to see
I[ 10 it~ broadest dimensIOns. If a chef or owner i pas ionate about something,
anymtn!?, they hould weave that into the experience ~omehow-that's a
dirnen,ion that the public crave.

Every tIme \\e plan a tril ' the day after we pay a nonrefundahle depOSit on it, there's a call from
someone for whom you simply c.mnot ~c awa} for their arrival-an important chef, an Important journabt. And you don't dJ.re ever ay anythino. I have fl\'e brother -they all got married on a Saturday.
I couldn't go to any of their weJdmg . \Y./e belte\'e that alma t 10 percent of our clientele is eIther tn the
!'usmes 0r writing a Crttl al pIece. If you con ider all the !!ulde~-the Mobil guide has four anonymous
VL'ltsa rear, the AAA guide ha four unannounced \ I It a year. Almost every I1lght there's a single pern 10 the room w.kmg note, It' tre fu!. It' not ed Y to pray the piXie du~t anJ have them succumh!
hen th ugh our tatf 1- large. nd capable, you'll fmd that thing wtll go better if you're pre~ent And
e en If ome Ine get a perfect meal, they expect orne interaction al 0, With a key person.
\X,ben y u do re ch omebody, often u' \'el') powerful, the energy tramfer. And YOLI have a great
Jt~ faCti n tn mclktng that connection. It reaffIrm thJt what you're doing I' important. We open the
IT\JII e\er, da\, anJ there arc .lbout rnenty letter -and ,ome of them JLI t make Yl)U bawl! And they
il'lldlh' \, "I hJ\ e never \HUten to .1 re taurant m ffi) enme hfe for .my rea,on, hut I feel Cllmpelled to
\\TI!e U clN>ut the expenence." It' often JU t tiny,llttle actS of human ktnJne ,for the mo t part, that
t<
htn o to them-ho\\ the~ were treated ~y the t. ff, or how the taff went OLlt of theIr way
tn' h IWy about It to accommoJate them.
It

Iml'< n tnt tv rem

m~er that

tht: I not

bu me . It' a ltfe' work.

3
A

"A, a hlzarre examrle. our dng Rllse [d dalmaulln} I III the re t ur nt

at th~ twnt d1111f. Sl1metlme' it's .llmnst clllnical-you think, H ven'r th
people ever , een a dog hefore, for GIld's ,ake? ~Of cour~e he' pretty md We
love her to plece~ and all this. But they get ur trnm their dinner .10 \ the, roll
on the flollr with her in their little Chane I "uit. . , and the next thing YOll kn W
she \; got a string of rearls on. It's entertainment! It's novel.
"Chefs and restaurateurs could ask themselve~ whether there are one or
two l1lwel ideas about how they could communICate a broader dimenSion of
themselves to their clients-whatever it might be. They would pmhahly he
a toni shed by the imract that might create." says O'Connell. "It's all inside
\'ou-if you wdl Ju~t take the ~andbag, off."

An Opportunity for Community

In her fascmating hook A

Natural History

of the

ense~.

Diane Ackerman romt - Ollt th,1(. "The other senses may he enjoyed in all
their he, ut \\ hen one I.~ alone. hut taste I~ largely acia!. Humans rarely
choo e [U Jtne II1 !HuJe. ,mJ (0(1\.! has" powerful 'ocwl component."
Leadll1!:! Lht:f.- !!ree. "F 1 h\)uld ,dw.lYs be eaten m company," say
Dieter - h mer. ''t eat It alan bring, on! half rhe rlea'lIfe. Being With
other pe pi I \\h ( m lk I d
be llHlfu!." LtnLI~ey Shere concur.. "Food
h uld be n) \ lhl , md "nno p
Ie together omeho\\'. It people ate
Ja ,thm
\ uld be dlt ert:nt. n I It people cite and cooked
t

uld

re \

It

rem."
r re [ ur tnt thell re o!.!nt:e the IInporrance ot
1 h It tl
pr
h t th
1010
I erlt:n e. "I think th,lt Patrick
[ )'Conn 11) nJ RelOh r j IL~ n hl h VI: b n there h r .llml) t twenty year~
ut In (h mll.l I
the wIIJ me (I The Inn .il Little W,I htngt t n in
the be t
Amen 10 h PltcllH) and the ~e t ot
rt:n't en u h pc pIe Itkc [hem \\ ho .Ire pIOneer.
re te th If 1\\'l1 m loe. It' !:!1\Jcn Amefl<.:an food anJ
\\h) re rn\lO~ t
c mple It) rhat \\C uldn'r be (here \\ Ith ur
re t lin nt nd IOn nd h el
th m
But e\ n O'umnell him I .lckno" ledge, "Thl I I h rd HOle t be a
h . It remmd me t the cr tn \\hl h Fr nch CUI me \\, horn That' the
pen xl "hen the rear chef: had to pIe
the bng , lOci rhe court. and the
"ere the m( t J Jed pe pIe In the \\orld-h cau e they c,)uIJ h \e lO~(htn
the 'J tried It all, the 'd d ne 1t all. Thl I H:ry Il1U h like the Am n In p b
a 9 est
e yo e f It t 1. Th re h \\ond
nt
p
9 as he s [I) In
beflR.r.lth ",."" roof
I t It
n ht n \.
ed I:x lit rl He
{

-In Culinary ArtistrY... Andmu ~ and Karen ..........

food and Jb!or pairinCS as a kind of ~ for the . . .~ f f 17 I
coc*... TMr Iq1e is rhat once :YO" Icnow the scala, ,oK . . . . . . . . lit

J1'ftI1horr1...

WitifOl' a

-MoLLy O'NEILL. The New yorit TII'IItS Macatine

landmark boc*... J., rM IN",?

.... Oft dte as't., JCGIe today. "

AadlUy is .. at..."......"

SI 71
$'

All IQi

AND GI!oJtOE 8EN8Cl, DIdio hom. ~ Eelit'''n OIl NPll

-0. ef'" ... a"t% , 6wks 11/ .. ,.,-... :n. is Jhe aJ ,. .,'s.. wi
J i Fef ~b1. heA' .. DUll'" Iud ';'" 11/ - eM at ..dJ C #Dr ...
n. tCb dll- . . . " sea Iii .dr .... b I J .. dLb'" F ...,
... ,

..
~

.., lieu umn. "