Fabric Inspection Using Four-Point System

How to draw the samples?

If there are 10 rolls and each one is a different type of fabric or a different design, all
the rolls have to be checked. However, in most cases there are several identical rolls,
and statistical sampling helps us reduce the amount of work.
But most of the times clients impose their own methods: for example take 10% of the
rolls at random, or check the square root of the total number of rolls. All are
usually workable.

Selection of Rolls:
At least one roll of each color / quality is selected. If more than one roll per color /
quality must be inspected, then the number of additional rolls in proportion to the
total rolls per color / quality is inspected.

What can be checked?

The number of presented rolls, and the length & width of each inspected roll, is
verified. Some tolerance is necessary because the factorys machine (see above
image) is often imprecise.
Usually the client sends some fabric swatches for reference. It is great to check the
conformity of production. Lastly, packing and labeling.
__________________________________________________________________
Tti-Inspections (Pvt.) Ltd
347-S, Quaid-e-Azam Industrial Estate, Kot Lakhpat. Lahore-54770, Pakistan
Tel: 0092-42-111 786 001, Fax: 0092-42-3515 4555, Email: marketing@ttilabs.net

ISO / IEC 17020 Accredited

Inspection:
Using 4-Point System or any other agreed upon system as defined by the customer,
inspection is carried out on a fabric inspection machine.

Defect Classification Using Four-Point System:

Size of Defect
3 inches or less
Over 3, but not over 6 inches
Over 6, but not over 9 inches
Over 9 inches

Penalty
1 Point
2 Points
3 Points
4 Points

A maximum of four points is charged to one linear yard

The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point.
No more than four penalty points may be given for any single defect.

General Inspection Procedures

1. Fabric inspection is done in suitable and safe environment with enough

ventilation and proper lighting.

2. Fabric passing through the frame must be between 45-60 degree angles to
inspector and must be done on appropriate Cool White light 2 F96 fluorescent
bulbs above viewing area. Back light can be used as and when needed.

3. Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more than 15 yards per
minute.
5. Standard approved bulk dye lot standards for all approved lots must be
available prior to inspection (if possible)
6. Approved standard of bulk dye lot must be available before starting
inspection for assessing color, construction, finish and visual appearance.

__________________________________________________________________
Tti-Inspections (Pvt.) Ltd
347-S, Quaid-e-Azam Industrial Estate, Kot Lakhpat. Lahore-54770, Pakistan
Tel: 0092-42-111 786 001, Fax: 0092-42-3515 4555, Email: marketing@ttilabs.net

ISO / IEC 17020 Accredited

7. Shade continuity within a roll by checking shade variation between centre

and selvage and the beginning, middle and end of each roll must be evaluated
and documented.
8. Textiles like knits must be evaluated for weight against standard approved
weight.
9. Fabric width must be checked from selvage to selvage against standard.
10. All defects must be flagged during inspection
11. The length of each roll inspected must be compared to length as mentioned
on supplier ticketed tag and any deviation must be documented and reported
to mill for additional replacement to avoid
shortage.
12. If yarn dyed or printed fabrics are being inspected the repeat measurement
must be done from beginning, middle and end of selected rolls.

No penalty points are recorded or assigned for minor defects. Only major defects are
considered.

A major defect is any defect that, if found in a finished fabric /garment, would
classify that fabric / garment as a second- rated.

Major woven fabric defects are

slubs, hole, missing yarn, conspicuous yarn variation, end out, soiled
yarn, wrong yarn.
Major knitted fabric defects are
mixed yarn, yarn variation, runner, needle line, barre, slub, hole, and
press off.
Major dye or printing defects are
out of register, dye spots, machine stop, color out, color smear, or
shading.
The Quality Inspector may include any other defect which he feels are of a
major category and may forward such defect details to the customer for feed
back as and when required.

__________________________________________________________________
Tti-Inspections (Pvt.) Ltd
347-S, Quaid-e-Azam Industrial Estate, Kot Lakhpat. Lahore-54770, Pakistan
Tel: 0092-42-111 786 001, Fax: 0092-42-3515 4555, Email: marketing@ttilabs.net

ISO / IEC 17020 Accredited

Minimum acceptable width

This width is excluding selvedge. Fabric width will be checked minimum of three
times during the inspection of a piece (beginning, middle and end of a piece). Pieces
having a width of measurement of less than the specified purchased width shall be
graded as second quality.

Defects Rules:
o A continuous of defect shall be assigned four points for each linear meter or
yard in which it occurs.
o
o Any piece having a running defect through more than three continuous linear
meters or yards shall be rejected. Regardless of point count.
o
o Any piece with a full width defect over six inches in length shall be rejected.
o
o Any piece that contains more than three full width defects per one hundred
linear meters or yards shall rejected.
o
o No piece shall be accepted that contains a full width defect in the first and last
three meters or yards.
o
o A hole or torn is considered to be a major defect and shall be penalized four
points.
o
o Fabric construction and weight, No tolerance will be allowed.
o
o The distance between major defects should be more than 20 meters.
o
o All major and full width defects should be seemed a polyester thread at the
selvedge.
o
o Waviness, tightness, ripples, puckering in body of fabric which would prevent
the fabric from lying flat when spread in a conventional manner is not
acceptable.

__________________________________________________________________
Tti-Inspections (Pvt.) Ltd
347-S, Quaid-e-Azam Industrial Estate, Kot Lakhpat. Lahore-54770, Pakistan
Tel: 0092-42-111 786 001, Fax: 0092-42-3515 4555, Email: marketing@ttilabs.net

ISO / IEC 17020 Accredited

Following defects will be penalized penalty points as per rules;

Kinks, Knots, slub, contamination, spot, and half/double pick, cockled

yarn, coarse pick. Heavy weft bar below 6 in length, set mark, rapping,
broken pick, out mark, holes & float up to

Following defects are cuttable and will be rejected:

Frequent kinks, knots, slub, contamination, spots etc
Any continuous defect
More than one meters broken end, double end, wrong draw reed mark
Holes torn and float above
Irregular selvedge, light weft bar, count variation, Lecco, shade
variation
o Heavy weft bar above 6: in length
o
o
o
o
o

The most commonly used system is the American 4 point system.

The ASTM D5430 standard explains how to assign points to each defectmostly based
on its size.
The overall result consists of two numbers (and they are all most buyers want to know
regarding defects):

The average number of points (on a 100 meters basis) of all inspected rolls,
The proportion of rolls above acceptance limit.

How can we measure points on a 100 meters basis?

Maximum Acceptable Points = 20 points per 100 sq. yards
OR

22 points per 100 sq. meters.

__________________________________________________________________
Tti-Inspections (Pvt.) Ltd
347-S, Quaid-e-Azam Industrial Estate, Kot Lakhpat. Lahore-54770, Pakistan
Tel: 0092-42-111 786 001, Fax: 0092-42-3515 4555, Email: marketing@ttilabs.net

ISO / IEC 17020 Accredited

Calculations:

Points/ 100 sq. yard = 3600 Total points assigned

Fabric Length in yards Fabric Width in inches

Points/100 sq. mtrs. = 100.000 Total points assigned

Fabric Length in mtrs Fabric Width in mm

For example

Total Linear points = 13

Total Length of the roll = 31 meters
Width of the roll = 166 cm = 1.66 meters

Area

= Length x Width

Area

= 51.46 m2

51.46 m2 has total linear points = 13

1 m2 has total linear points

= 13/51.46

Points per 100 m2 = (13/51.46) x 100 = 25.26 points / m2

Results: Unsatisfactory Roll

__________________________________________________________________
Tti-Inspections (Pvt.) Ltd
347-S, Quaid-e-Azam Industrial Estate, Kot Lakhpat. Lahore-54770, Pakistan
Tel: 0092-42-111 786 001, Fax: 0092-42-3515 4555, Email: marketing@ttilabs.net

ISO / IEC 17020 Accredited