Dyeing of Polyester with

Natural Dyes

Dyeing of Polyester with Natural Dyes

1 Introduction
Natural dyes refer to those colourants which are obtained from plant, animal and mineral
resources. These are used for colouration of textile, food, drugs and cosmetics. Small quantities
are also used for colouration of paper, leather, shoe-polish, wood, candle etc [1, 2]. The main
natural dyes used in India have been extracted from the roots, barks, flowers and fruits of various
dye producing plants. Mollotus phillipinensis is a small evergreen tree belonging to the
Euphorbiaceae family, mostly natives of tropics of old world, flourishing in the forests of tropical
Asia from India to Malaysia and Phillipines, China and Australia [3]. The tree bears fruits in the
form of pods. The dye is an orange-red powder, which occurs as a glandular pubescence on those
pods and is gathered by shaking the ripe capsules harvested in the month of February-March. The
colouring matter of Mollotus phillipinensis comprises of several chalcones, the structures of
which are given in the literature [1]. Rheum emodi, commonly known as dolu, is a stout herb

of 1.5 - 3 m in height, distributed in the Himalayas from Kashmir to Sikkim at an altitude

of 3300 5200 m. The stout roots are the chief source of Himalayan rhubarb and finds
application chiefly in medicine as a purgative and astringent tonic and can also be used
for colouration of wool and silk fibre [4, 5]. The chief colouring component of Rheum
emodi is chrysophanic acid and the structure of which is given in the literature [6].
Ratanjot (Onosma echoides) has traditionally been used as a food colourant [7]. The bark of roots
contains several naphthoquinone pigments, which give a violet-red colour. The main pigment is
believed to be alkanin [8]. Alkanin is insoluble in water but has been used to dye wool, silk and
cotton with addition of alcohol for one hour at 400 C and its alkaline solution is deep blue
coloured [9].
Natural dyes are mostly used to dye natural fibres like, cotton, wool, silk, jute etc. But very little
information is available on dyeing of synthetic fibre like polyester with natural dyes.

In this

study an attempt has been made to dye polyester fabric with those above mentioned natural
colourants in absence and presence of different inorganic salts or mordants. The dyed fabrics
were assessed in terms of depth of shade and different colourfastness properties.

2 Experimental
2.1 Materials
Plain weave polyester fabric having 230 ends/dm and 314 picks/dm and weighing 70 g/m2 on the
average was used in the present work. Laboratory reagent grade aluminium sulphate, manganese
sulphate, ferrous sulphate, zinc sulphate, acetic acid, sodium carbonate and non ionic detergent
obtained from M/s Loba Chemie Pvt. Ltd, Mumbai, India were used as and when required.
Mollotus phillipinensis, Rheum emodi, Onosma echoides (Ratanjot) in the form of powder
obtained from M/s Alps Industries Ltd. India, were used without any further purification.
2.2 Methods
2.2.1 Scouring of polyester fabric
Scouring of polyester fabric was done to remove the spin finish, dirt, dusts etc. present in the
fabric. The process was performed by employing 1g/l sodium carbonate and 2g/l non-ionic
detergent at a temperature of 700 C for 30 minutes, followed by cold wash and finally dried.
2.2.2 Application of natural dyes
In absence of inorganic salts
Application of aqueous solution/dispersion of Mollotus phillipinensis, Rheum emodi and Onosma
echoides (Ratanjot) on polyester fabric was done in absence of inorganic salts at a temperature of
1300 C for 45 minutes keeping a fabric-to-liquor ratio of 1:50 in a glycerin bath beaker dyeing
machine. The pH of the dye bath was maintained at 4.5 - 5.0. The dyed fabrics were then treated
with 2 g/l non-ionic detergent at 600 C for 10 minutes to remove the unfixed dyes present on the
fabric surface. Finally the fabric samples were cold washed and dried.
In presence of inorganic salts
Application of aqueous solution/dispersion of Mollotus phillipinensis, Rheum emodi and Onosma
echoides (Ratanjot) on polyester fabric was done in presence of aluminium sulphate, manganese
sulphate, ferrous sulphate and zinc sulphate following a simultaneous mordanting method. In this
method, polyester fabrics were separately immersed in a bath containing the above mentioned
inorganic salts and the dye solutions. The dyeing temperature was kept at 1300 C and the dyeing
was carried out for 45 minutes at a fabric-to-liquor ratio of 1:50. Soaping of all the dyed fabric
samples was done employing 2 g/l non-ionic detergent at 600 C for 10 minutes. Finally the fabric
samples were cold washed and dried.

2.2.3 Measurement of K/S and colour value

In order to determine the depth of shade, the K/S value of the fabric samples dyed with the above
mentioned natural colourants under the specified conditions was measured in a Mcbeth 2020+
reflectance spectrophotometer interfaced with a computer. The reflectance values (R) of the dyed
fabric at wavelength of maximum absorption (max) were converted to the corresponding K/S
value using the Kubelka-Munk equation; [K/S = (1-R)

/ (2R)], where K is the absorption

coefficient and S is the scattering coefficient [10]. A higher K/S value indicates higher depth of
shade of the substrates.

The colour value i.e. L*(lightness and darkness), a*(redness and

greenness) and b*(yellowness and blueness) were also measured by the help of the above
mentioned instrument following

CIELAB 1976 equation at 100 observer angle under D65

illuminant.

2.2.4 Assessment of colourfastness to washing

Colourfastness to washing of polyester fabrics dyed with natural colourants was assessed in a
Launder-o-meter in accordance with the method prescribed in IS: 3361 1984 (ISO II) [11].

2.2.5 Assessment of colourfastness to light

Colourfastness to light of polyester fabrics dyed with natural colourants under different process
conditions were tested on a Mercury Bulb Tungsten Filament (MBTF) lightfastness tester in
accordance with the method prescribed in IS: 2454 1984 [12].
2.2.6 Assessment of colourfastness to rubbing
Colourfastness to rubbing was assessed in a Crockmeter as per IS: 766 1984 for polyester
fabrics dyed with natural colourants [13].

2.2.9 Assessment of colourfastness to perspiration

Colourfastness to perspiration of polyester fabrics dyed with natural colourants was assessed in a
Perspirometer in accordance with the method prescribed in IS: 971 1956 [14].

3. Results and Discussion

3.1 Effect of dye bath concentrations on depth of shade
Table 1 shows the data for K/S values of polyester fabrics dyed with Mollotus phillipinensis,
Rheum emodi and Onosma echoides (Ratanjot) under different specified dye bath concentrations.
It is observed that with the increase in the concentration of the dye bath K/S value i.e. depth of

shade increases gradually upto a concentration level of 30 g/l and with further increase in
concentration, there is insignificant improvement in K/S value. Hence 30 g/l dye bath
concentration can be considered as optimum for achieving maximum colour strength for all those
natural colorants applied on polyester fabric.
3.2 Effect of inorganic salts on K/S
Application of Mollotus phillipinensis, Rheum emodi and Onosma echoides (Ratanjot) were made
on polyester fabric employing aluminium sulphate, ferrous sulphate, manganese sulphate and zinc
sulphate as the mordanting agents following a simultaneous mordanting method. Results of such
studies assessed in terms of K/S and colour value are shown in table 2. From the table it is
observed that there is no substantial improvement, rather a slight decrease in the K/S values of
the dyed substrates when the inorganic salts were applied along with the above three natural
colourants following a simultaneous mordanting method. Iron, aluminium, manganese and zinc
form complexes with the colouring components present in the above mentioned natural
colourants more readily in aqueous phase prior to transportation of the colouring matter on to the
substrate, resulting into no substantial improvement or slight decrease in the K/S value of the
dyed substrates for following simultaneous mordanting method.
3.3 Colourfastness properties
Table 3 and table 4 show data for colourfastness to light, wash, rubbing and perspiration for
polyester fabric when dyed with Mollotus phillipinensis, Rheum emodi and Onosma echoides
(Ratanjot) in absence and presence of inorganic salts. The results show that all the colourants
when applied on polyester exhibit good to excellent colourfastness to washing and perspiration,
moderate to good colourfastness to rubbing (except Ratanjot) and moderate to good lightfastness
properties.

4. Conclusions
Mollotus phillipinensis, Rheum emodi and Onosma echoides (Ratanjot) colourants can be
effectively used for dyeing of polyester fabric in absence and presence of inorganic salts or
mordants. Colouration of polyester fabric with those natural colorants in absence and presence of
inorganic salts in general produce different range of shades. Application of Mollotus
phillipinensis, Rheum emodi and Onosma echoides on polyester fabric in absence and presence of
inorganic salts exhibit good to excellent colourfastness to washing and perspiration, moderate to
good light and rubbing fastness properties.

Tables
Table 1
Effect of dye bath concentration on depth of shade
Dye bath
Concentration
(g/l)

K/S at wavelength of maximum absorption ( = 580 nm)

Rheum emodi

10

Mollotus
phillipinensis
1.49

1.31

Onosma
echoides
1.89

20

2.77

2.46

3.64

30

3.35

3.63

4.82

40

3.37

3.66

4.89

Table 2
Effect of inorganic salts on K/S and colour
value
Colourants

Mollotus
phillipinensis

Rheum emodi

Onosma
echoides

Mordants
Nil
Aluminium
Sulphate
Ferrous
Sulphate
Manganese
Sulphate
Zinc Sulphate
Nil
Aluminium
Sulphate
Ferrous
Sulphate
Manganese
Sulphate
Zinc Sulphate
Nil
Aluminium
Sulphate
Ferrous
Sulphate
Manganese
Sulphate
Zinc Sulphate

K/S
at =580 nm
3.35
2.90

L*

a*

b*

74.28
74.06

3.92
5.66

26.85
25.33

3.10

73.58

8.13

20.91

2.83

74.72

3.83

22.30

2.83
3.63
3.12

74.35
73.86
73.07

4.63
2.43
3.30

24.81
35.11
44.50

3.52

74.09

- 0.32

36.73

2.97

74.42

2.14

29.15

2.71
4.82
4.57

73.74
76.19
78.96

3.07
10.77
7.68

34.70
- 3.06
- 9.54

3.99

75.58

9.22

1.92

4.15

75.90

13.54

- 3.34

4.20

76.14

12.38

- 2.49

Table 3
Colourfastness to washing, rubbing and
light
Colourants

Mollotus
phillipinensis

Rheum emodi

Onosma
echoides

Mordants

Light
fastness

Rubbing fastness
Dry
Wet

Change
in colour

Washfastness
Staining
Staining
on
on
cotton
polyester
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5

Nil
Aluminium
Sulphate
Ferrous
Sulphate
Manganese
Sulphate
Zinc
Sulphate
Nil
Aluminium
Sulphate

3
3

3-4
4

3
3-4

5
5

4-5

4-5

4-5

3-4

4-5

4-5

3-4

4-5

4-5

4
4

4-5
4-5

4-5
4

5
5

4-5
4-5

4-5
4-5

Ferrous
Sulphate
Manganese
Sulphate
Zinc
Sulphate
Nil
Aluminium
Sulphate
Ferrous
Sulphate
Manganese
Sulphate
Zinc
Sulphate

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4
4

2
2

1-2
1-2

4-5
4-5

4-5
4-5

4-5
4-5

1-2

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

Table 4
Colourfastness to
perspiration

Colourants

Mollotus
phillipinensis

Mordants
Nil
Aluminium
Sulphate
Ferrous
Sulphate
Manganese
Sulphate
Zinc
Sulphate

Perspiration fastness
Acidic perspiration
Alkaline perspiration
Change in Staining
Staining
Change in Staining
Staining
colour
on
on
colour
on
on
cotton
polyester
cotton
polyester
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

Rheum Emodi

Onosma
echoides

Nil
Aluminium
Sulphate
Ferrous
Sulphate
Manganese
Sulphate
Zinc
Sulphate
Nil
Aluminium
Sulphate
Ferrous
Sulphate
Manganese
Sulphate
Zinc
Sulphate

4-5
4-5

4-5
4

4-5
4-5

4-5
4-5

4-5
4-5

4-5
4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5
4-5

4-5
4-5

4-5
4-5

4-5
4-5

4-5
4-5

4-5
4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

4-5

References
1
2

Natural Dyes and Their Application to Textiles, edited by M L Gulrajani & D B Gupta
(Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi), (1992).
M L Gulrajani, Indian J Fibre Text Res, 26 (1-2) (2001), p191.

The Royal Horticulture Society, edited by F J Chittenden, (Oxford Clarendon Press), vol3 (1997), p1237.
D Das, S Ray Maulik and S C Bhattacharya, Indian J Fibre Text Res, 33(2), 2008, pp
163-170.
M Khan, M A Khan, P K Srivastava and F Mohammad, Colourage, 51(5), (2004), pp33
38.
M L Gulrajani, D B Gupta, V Agarwal & M Jain, Indian Text J, 102(3) (1992) 76-83.

N Bairagi and M L Gulrajani, Indian J Fibre Tex Res, 30, (2005), p196.

M L Gulrajani, D Gupta and S Ray Maulik, Indian J Fibre Tex Res, 24(4) (1999), p 294.

D Cardon and Du G Chatenet, Guide to natural dyes, (De Niestle, Paris). 1990.

3
4
5

10 F W Billmeyer and M Saltzman, Principles of Color Technology, 2nd edn, (A Willey

Interscience Publication), 1981.
11 I S I Handbook of Textile Testing, (Indian Standard Institution, New Delhi),
Determination of colourfastness of textile materials to washing, Test 2, IS: 3361-1984,
pp571-572.
12 I S I Handbook of Textile Testing, (Indian Standard Institution, New Delhi),
Determination of colourfastness of textile materials to light, IS: 2454-1984, pp536-537.
13 I S I Handbook of Textile Testing, (Indian Standard Institution, New Delhi),
Determination of colourfastness of textile materials to rubbing, IS: 766- 1984, p553.
14 ISI Handbook of Textile Testing, (Indian Standard Institution, New Delhi),
Determination of colourfastness of textile materials to perspiration, IS: 971 1956.