27 Unspoken Suit Rules Every Man

Should Know
You cant expect to look all dapper and gentlemanly without knowing Suiting
101. posted on January 7, 2014 at 12:21pm EST

Peggy Wang BuzzFeed Staff

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Justine Zweibel / BuzzFeed

1. The width of the tie should match the width of the

lapel.

SMALTO / malemodelscene.net
Its all about BALANCE.

2. In general, thin lapels are more modern. Wide

lapels are more old school, Mad Men-style.

AMC

So choose your look accordingly.

3. Pocket squares add an extra level of polish, but

make sure it doesnt match your tie in either pattern
or fabric choice.

theversatilegent.tumblr.com
Before you go totally conservative, remember that the pocket square is where you get
the most freedom and the one place you get to add a little pizzazz to your suit.

4. When buying an off-the-rack suit, the number one

thing to check is how the shoulders fit.

huffingtonpost.com
Tsk, tsk, John McCain. Shoulder pads should end at the shoulders. The shoulders are
the hardest to tailor, so make sure they dont stick out or stick up.

5. A collar gap between your jackets lapels and your

shirts collar can signify an ill-fitting jacket.

putthison.com

putthison.com

Its complicated. Read more about it here.

6. Opt for a charcoal or gray suit over black, unless

youre attending a funeral.

suitsupply.tumblr.com
Dark gray is more versatile and goes with more colors.

7. Your belt should be fairly thin and the same color

as your shoes.

buzzfeed.com
Union Made makes really great belts in a variety of leather and metal finishes.

8. You should match your shoes to the color of your

suit using this guide:

putthison.com / Via reddit.com

9. Double vents in the back are more modern and

fashionable.

jcrew.com

jcrew.com

This look is also more flattering for larger figures, and it gives you enough room to do
that effortlessly casual hand in pocket thing.

10. For a more casual, trendy look, opt for a singlebutton peak-lapel jacket.

needsupply.com

11. If youre going for more formal business attire,

opt for a double-button, notched lapel jacket.

White Collar / USA

12. The Savile Row Fold keeps your dress pants from
falling off the hanger.

lifehacker.com
Watch the instructional video here.

13. You should be able to slip your hand between

your chest and your buttoned jacket such that it feels
snug, but with room to move.

David Agbodji for Barneys

14. Always unbutton your suit before sitting down, or

you risk ruining it.

Dimitrios Kambouris / Getty Images for Victorias Secret

15. The top button of a two-button (or the middle

button of a three-button) should fall at or above the
navel.

lechateau.com

16. Always go with the classic windsor knot for your

tie, but use the size of your head to determine
whether you should go half or full windsor.

feeldesain.com

BIG HEAD = FULL KNOT. SMALL HEAD = HALF KNOT. If youre not sure how
your head size compares, ask one of your male friends. They should be able to give
you an objective opinion.

17. If youre wearing a vest, always keep the bottom

button unbuttoned.

jcrew.com
But plenty of men break this rule and are still able to pull off the 3-piece beautifully.

18. There are practical reasons for vests beyond just

how they look.

menstylefashion.com
Vests are best worn with single-breasted suits (so its actually visible). if youre going
to be wearing your suit in a cold climate, a vest can add a lot of warmth. It also adds a
formal touch to your suit.

19. Sleeve cuffs should be exposed about 1/2 an inch.

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For a harmonious look, try to match the visible cuff length to the amount of collar that
is visible at the back of the neck.

20. When you get your suit home, youll need a seam
ripper or a small, sharp pair of scissors.

Unstitch the jackets pockets, remove the tack stitches from the jackets vents, and
remove the little embroidered label from the jackets left sleeve. Do this very
carefully to ensure you dont actually rip the fabric or neighboring threads.

21. Make sure that your socks are long enough that
theres no exposed leg when sitting down.

monotopshoes.com
No one needs to see your hairy gams.

22. Your tie should always be darker than your dress

shirt.

jnormanpost.com

23. The suit jacket should be just long enough to

cover your pants zipper and butt.

scharnke.tumblr.com

24. Your tie should JUST reach the waistband of your

trousers, or be slightly shorter.

25. For a more fashion forward look, the pant hem

should hit right at the top of your shoe.

gq.com
For a more conservative look, the pants should cover the top of the shoe and parts of
the laces.

26. If you sweat a lot, wear an undershirt.

Shutterstock

Preferably one with a deep neck so it doesnt peek through. Nothing will cheapen the
appearance of a suit more than a glimpse of undershirt.

27. Finally, go for the dimple.

versamens.com
The dimple is the little hollow beneath the knot of your tie, and it gives a slightly
disheveled yet polished appearance to your finished look. Check out this handy guide
on nailing the tie dimple.