Structures • GSM • Single Jersey • Width • RIB • Shrinkage • Interlock Any deviation in the All our knitted fabrics are 90% based on above parameters these 3 Kinds only lead to heavy loss Construction of Circular Knitted Fabrics • Our conventional method of fabric construction is basically Trial and Error Method which is time and cost consuming • Using Starfish Predictions from Cotton Technology International we can construct our fabrics based on calculations • Main aspect for fabric construction is the Fabric Feeling or Tightness Factor (TF) Fabrics Based on Feeling
• Tight Fabric – Problems – Streks, Needle Holes,
Holes, Colour shading, Slubs etc • Loose Fabric – Problems – See thru, Shrinkage, Spirality, Unstable, Deform etc • Normal Fabric – Good, optimum performance, proper fit, retains shape, stable, clean and smooth surface etc., Tightness Factor • How to differentiate the Tight fabric, Loose Fabric and Normal fabric? • Tightness Factor is the proper measuring tool for the fabric feeling. • TF = √Tex Count ÷ LL in cms for 1 loop • Tex Count = 590.46/Ne Count
• Ex. Tex Count = 590.46/30’s = 19.682
• Ex. TF = √19.682 ÷ .29 = 15.29 TF value for Regular Fabrics
S.Jersey Rib 1 x 1Interlock2T Fleece
Normal 15.5 15.5 12.5 15 Face /
1.5 Loop Innerwear 14.5 14.5 12.0
TF is inversely proportional to LL and so
Outerwea 16.5 16.5 13.5 if LL is more then TF=14 is Less which means the fabric is rmore loose if LL is less then TF=18 is more which means the fabric is more tight Using Star Fish Predictions • Based on the TF we need to construct our fabrics using the Star Fish predictions • Width GSM and Shrinkage is affected mainly due to Yarn Count and LL. • Diameter, Gauge, RPM, No of Needles, Feeders per Inch are not much important factor for cost saving. • If you exactly know Finishing GSM, Finishing Dia, Finishing Shrinkage, Exact Yarn Count, Machine Gauge and Machine Limitations, then the star fish predictions can help you select the knitting Dia. • Gauge is selected based on the yarn count selected Tex Count From Yarn
• Lea Method – Need Length in yards
and Weight in grams • Count = 64.8/Lea Weight in grams • 1 Lea = 120 yards • 80 rotations in Wrap Reel = 120 yard • 1 rotation in wrap reel = 1.5 yards • 7 lea = 1 hanks = 840 yards Tex Count From Fabric • Tex Count = (Yarn Length in Inches ÷ Weight in grams ) x 0.015 Or • Tex Count = ( Yarn Length in cms ÷ Weight in grams) x 0.0059
• Find out the LL from fabric is unraveling
• Then do find yarn count from the above • Construct your fabrics • No of 840 yards in 1 pound = Count • 1 pound = 454 grams • 1 yard = 0.914 mtrs • 120 yards = 1 Lea • 7 Leas = 7 x 120 yds = 840 yds = 1 hanks • 454gms ÷ 7 Lea = 64.8 gms for 1 lea of 1’s • 840 yds = 1 hanks = 1 pound or 454 gms • 1 pound = 1 x 840 yds = 840 yds = 1’s • 1 pound = 2 x 840 yds = 1680 yds = 2’s • 1 pound = 10 x 840 yds = 8400 yds = 10’s • 1 pound = 20 x 840 yds = 16800 yds = 20’s Single Jersey 150 gsm 30’s count 24gg Knitting Quality Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3
Yarn Count, Ne30 28.5 28.5
Stitch Length mm2.68 2.84 2.852 Course Length in cm604.6 640.7 643.4 Tightness Factor Cgs16.56 16.03 15.96 Finishing Course/cm20.08 18.88 Wales/CM14.97 14.27 Weight g/sq.mtr150.7 150.6 150.1 Width cm29.64 31.1 36 Yield m/Kg4.4 4.2 Length Shrinkage5 5 5 Width Shirnkage5 5 5 The star fish predictions are available for - Single Jersey - 1 x 1 Rib - 2 x 2 Rib - Interlock - 2t Fleece - 2 Tuck Pique - 1 Tuck Pique Benetton 8110 2 x 2 Rib Live Example
• 2 x 2 Rib 220 gsm required
• Selected count 30’s so gauge 18 • LL = 27.5 cms for K.Dia = 26 • Actual count = 27.8Ne = Tex 21.23 • TF = 16.75 • Result GSM=240, width=16 Shrinkage = L -1% & W-5% • LL can be raised to 29.5 to get lesser gsm with same count or try to get exact count at 28.5 then the LL @ 28.5cms. • Result awaited. Quality Customer Service • By doing the fabric construction in the scientific way we can construct a good fabric, with exact requirements regarding the gsm, width and shrinkage, by this way we can save a lot of time and money, which is ultimately resulting in the customer satisfaction. • Construct your fabric and take 1 mtr of fabric and do 3 times washing and 3 times tumble dry and review the resultant GSM and Resultant Dia. Shrinkage is Nil. More Information Contact
The Jacquard Machine Analyzed and Explained: With an appendix on the preparation of jacquard cards, and practical hints to learners of jacquard designing