C&A Technical file

Page 611
previous Date 09-03-2010
revised date 13-07-2011

I would like to explain the following about the different types of fusing we should use .

1) The fusing has always been a bit of a problem because there are many different types of fusing.
2) The fusing cannot be too thin, as the bone in collar will be visible especially on white materials.
3) The rolling space should not measure more than a few Millimeters, see page 609
4) Factories do use different bias tolerances for skin, patch and collar band. In Bangladesh, Peter Kwong and Mr Turan made some
experiments with the following bias tolerances as follows: skin 35% patch 23% band 9%. The sample collars from Bangladesh look good.
5) We, in Brussels, received many different collars from Different factories like:
China factory, Gin-Win, Bangladesh factories, New age and Continental , Indonesia, Golden flower and Indonesia.

The Brussels shirt team finally came to a conclusion.

Thickness of fusing:
We would like to advise the thickness grams per M2 of the fusing as shown in list below. The list will help all parties Brussels buying,
Mondial and the factories.
The list:

C&A Technical file

The list below: Fusing thickness has been selected and put together for shirts made in regular poplin material 40s 50s yarn . Please do
use one step thinner fusing when the thickness of the material is thicker than poplin Like (dobby weave/oxford). I would say one step
thinner on thicker material as follows: If the fusing on poplin is 3630 use 3620 this would then be for the 1st and 2nd layer and collar band
too.
Cuff fusing:
We can always use the same fusing like 1st layer of the collar

Placket fusing:
This fusing can be on a roll, the fashion is not thick and stiff plackets. The placket needs to be soft and smooth.
The function of the placket fusing is only to reinforce the buttonhole and help the stitching of the placket edge.
I think we can use 3600= 68 grams
What is a X pieces:
Please see page 610, technical file.

Starting point:
The list bellow is an attempt to start putting some information together and can be changed at all times for better results
Please also check with style card.
B = Business shirt
C = Casual shirt
H = Hanging shirt clean
HC = Hanging shirt casual

C&A Technical file

NR

Name

Bone
yes/no

403

Shark wide spread

404

Kent wide spread

405

Button down

406

Alfie

407
408

Small button at back of collar photo only

Cosmo
internal

409

Dean (soft collar thick

st

nd

1 layer grams-m2

2 layer gramsm2

Collar band
Grams-m2

Placket
grams-m2

Cuff
grams-m2

internal

-Xpiece
yes/no
No

w3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

w3630/146gr

Same as 1
layer collar

internal

yes

w3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
w3640/170gr

w3630/146gr

no

yes

3610/80gr

w3620/108gr

w3630/146gr

internal

yes

w3620/108gr

w3630/146gr

w3630/146gr

v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams

yes

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

w3630/146gr

no

yes

w3610/85gr

w3620/108gr

w3630/146gr

stitching)

410

Executive --1mm

removable

yes

3620/108gr

3630/146

3630/146gr

411

Executive --5mm

internal

yes

3630/146gr

3630/146gr

412

Wing
collar)
Zaza

no

no

3610/80gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170
3010/80

internal

yes

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

no

yes

3610/80gr

w3620/108gr

3630/146gr

413

414
B

(special

Button down small

none

v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams

Class Nr.

st

st

Same as 1
layer collar

st

Same as 1
layer collar

926

st

Same as 1
layer collar

st

Same as 1
layer collar

st

Same as 1
layer collar

st

Same as 1
layer collar

923,925,.926

st

Same as 1
923,925,926
layer collar
Collar and band is one piece
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams

st

926

st

925.926

Same as 1
layer collar
Same as 1
layer collar

C&A Technical file

NR

Name

Bone yes/no

no

-Xpiece
yes/no
yes

1st layer gramsm2

w3620/108gr

2 layer gramsm2
-

Collar band
Grams-m2
3630/146gr

Placket
grams-m2
30gr

internal

yes

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
30gr

nd

414
C
415

Button down small

416
B

Button down casual

no

yes

3610/80gr

w3620/108gr

3630/146gr

416
C

Button down casual

no

yes

w3620/108gr

3630/146gr

416
HC

Button down casual

no

yes

Non fuse 305

417

Gyorgy -B-D

no

yes

3610/80gr

418

Kent-2

internal

yes

419

Cut away

internal

420

Double button

421

422

Rafca

Cuff gramsm2
st
Same as 1
layer collar
st
Same as 1
layer collar
st

Class Nr.
933 Casual
Stories
923

Same as 1
layer collar

923

3630/146gr

933 Casual
Stories, 913
Clean BCBG
stories
913 Casual
Stories

Non fuse 305

Non fuse
305

Non fuse 305

w3620/108gr

3630/146gr

Same as 1
layer collar

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165 or
3640/170

3630/146gr

no

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

internal

yes

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

Emilio

internal

yes

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

New Alfie

internal

yes

3620/108gr

3630/146gr

3630/146gr

v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams

st

923,925

st

923,925,nos

Same as 1
layer collar

st

Same as 1
layer collar
Same as 1
layer collar

st

926

Same as 1
layer collar

st

926

st

926

Same as 1
layer collar

C&A Technical file

NR

Name

Bone yes/no

internal

-Xpiece
yes/no
yes

1st layer gramsm2

3630/146gr

2 layer gramsm2
Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

Collar band
Grams-m2
3630/146gr

nd

423

Double button cut

away

424

Pharell -B-D

no

yes

3010/80gr

3620/108gr

3630/146gr

425

H-B Long tip

internal

yes

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

426

Cut away top store

internal

No

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

427

Kent Westbury

internal

yes

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

428
B

Kent Canda

internal

yes

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

428
C

Kent Canda

Internal soft
bones

yes

w3010/80gr

w3620/108gr

3630/146gr

428
FT
C

Kent Canda

internal

yes

w3010/80gr

3630/146gr

3630/146gr

428
H

Kent Canda

internal

yes

w3010/80gr

3630/146gr

3630/146gr

428
HC

Kent Canda

Internal soft
bones

yes

Non fuse 305

Non fuse 305

Placket
grams-m2
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
Non fuse
305

Cuff gramsm2
st
Same as 1
layer collar

Class Nr.
926

Same as 1
layer collar

st

926

Same as 1
layer collar

st

926

Same as 1
layer collar

st

926

Same as 1
layer collar

st

925

st

923

Same as 1
layer collar

3630/146gr

3630/146gr

Non fuse 305

933
Casual
Stories
933
Finest Tailor
and clean
Stories
913
Clean BCBG
Stories
913
Casual
Stories

C&A Technical file

NR

Name

429
430

Vario
collar)
Kent 9138

431

Button under

432

Cut away Westbury

internal

433

Kent Italy

434

(special

Bone yes/no

-Xpiece
yes/no

internal

none

st

1 layer gramsm2

nd

2 layer gramsm2

Collar band
Grams-m2

3040r

No band

internal

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

no

w3620/108gr

145

No

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

internal

yes

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

Mac coy

internal

No X
piece

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

435

Helmut

internal

No X
piece

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

436

Christian

internal

yes

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

437

Hans

internal

yes

3630/146gr

438

Kent-1

internal

yes

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr
Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

3630/146gr

Placket
grams-m2

W3010
grams 80
v.3205
W3000
65 grams

Cuff gramsm2

Class Nr.

3040r
st

Same as 1
layer collar

st

v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams

Same as 1
layer collar
st
Same as 1
layer collar

925

st

925,926,nos

Same as 1
layer collar

st

926

st

926

Same as 1
layer collar

Same as 1
layer collar

st

Same as 1
layer collar

st

Same as 1
layer collar

st

Same as 1
layer collar

C&A Technical file

1 layer gramsm2

2 layer gramsm2

nd

Collar band
Grams-m2

Placket
grams-m2

Cuff gramsm2

3010/80gr

w3620/108gr

3630/146gr

Same as 1
layer collar

w3620/108gr

3630/146gr

3630/146gr

yes

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

internal

No X
piece

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
w3640/170gr

3630/146gr

Collar 1895

no

No X
piece

w3610/85gr

w3620/108gr

w3630/146gr

444

Doc- Holiday

removable

No X
piece

w3610/85gr

w3620/108gr

w3630/146gr

v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams

445

Father

no

No
piece

3010/80gr

w3620/108gr

3630/146gr

v.3205
W3000
65 grams

446

Gable

internal

yes

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
w3640/170gr

3630/146gr

v.3205
W3000
65 grams

Same as 1
layer collar

NR

Name

Bone yes/no

439

Vincent triple button

440

Celio

internal

441

Kent 1055

internal

442

New H-B

443

no

-Xpiece
yes/no
yes

st

Class Nr.

st

st

Same as 1
layer collar

st

Same as 1
layer collar
Same as 1
layer collar

st

926

Same as 1
layer collar

st

926

Same as 1
layer collar

st

926

Same as 1
layer collar

st

926

st

926

C&A Technical file

NR

Name

447

Raf

448

Double Sherlock

449

st

nd

Bone yes/no

-Xpiece
yes/no

1 layer gramsm2

2 layer gramsm2

Collar band
Grams-m2

no

No
piece

3010/80gr

w3620/108gr

no

yes

3010/80gr
(per collar)

3010/80gr
(per collar)

3630/146gr

Watson

no

yes

3010/80gr

3010/80gr

3630/146gr

450

Leonardo-Button
down

no

yes

w3610/85gr

w3620/108gr

w3630/146gr

451

Paul

no

yes

w3610/85gr

w3620/108gr

w3630/146gr

452

Pitt

yes

yes

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

452
C

Pitt

internal

yes

w3010/80gr

w3620/108gr

3630/146gr

453

Martin I

removable

no

3010/80gr

Vilene
6635/215gr

3630/146gr

454

Thomas-----hidden
button

no

yes

3010/80gr

3010/80gr

3630/146gr

3630/146gr

Placket
grams-m2

v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
check style
card

Cuff gramsm2

st

Class Nr.

Same as 1
layer collar
w3620/108gr

UWC

w3620/108gr

926

926

Same as 1
layer collar

st

926

Same as 1
layer collar

st

925

Same as 1
layer collar

st

926

w3620/108gr

933
casual only

3630/146gr

925

w3620/108gr

926

C&A Technical file

NR

Name

454
C

Thomas-----hidden
button

455

st

1 layer gramsm2

nd

Bone yes/no

-Xpiece
yes/no

2 layer gramsm2

Collar band
Grams-m2

Placket
grams-m2

Cuff gramsm2

Class Nr.

no

yes

3630/146gr

3630/146gr

v.3205
check style
card

w3620/108gr

935
casual
only

Miller

internal

yes

3010/80gr

3010/80gr

3630/146gr

w3620/108gr

926

456

Ford

no

yes

3010/80gr

3010/80gr

3630/146gr

w3620/108gr

926

456
C

Ford

no

yes

3630/146gr

3630/146gr

w3620/108gr

457

Ronny

no

no

3010/80gr

w3620/108gr

3630/146gr

935
casual
only
Suits
department

458

Otto

no

yes

3010/80gr

w3620/108gr

3630/146gr

v.3205
check style
card
v.3205
check style
card
v.3205
check style
card
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams

459
460

Tommy
Natca

no
internal

no
no

w3620/108gr

w3630/146gr

w3630/146gr

v.3205

461

Mao

no

no

w3620/108gr

v.3000/65gr

462

Gable new

yes

yes

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

v.3205
W3000
65 grams

Same as 1
layer collar
st
Same as 1
layer collar
st
Same as 1
layer collar

st

Same as 1
layer collar

st

Same as 1
layer collar

Suits
department

st

Design team
926
926

926

C&A Technical file

NR

Name

Bone yes/no

463

Jules I

464

Alex

465

Faf

466

st

nd

1 layer gramsm2

2 layer gramsm2

Collar band
Grams-m2

Placket
grams-m2

Cuff gramsm2

Class Nr.

no

-Xpiece
yes/no
no

3610/80gr

w3620/108gr

w3630/146gr

w3620/108gr

926

internal

yes

3620/108gr

3630/146gr

3630/146gr

w3620/108gr

926

internal

yes

3610/80gr

w3620/108gr

3630/146gr

w3620/108gr

926

London

no

no

3620/108gr

3630/146gr

3630/146gr

w3620/108gr

926

467

Kent Linen

no

no

Non fuse

Non fuse

v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
none

Non fuse

468

Jules II

no

no

3610/80gr

w3620/108gr

w3630/146gr

w3620/108gr

469
C

Button down Ben

no

yes

3630/146gr

3630/146gr

v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
check style
card

WB
Premium
926

w3620/108gr

935
casual
only

470

Martin II

internal

yes

w3640/170gr

3620/108gr

3630/146gr

3630/146gr

926

471
C

Tom hidden button

no

yes

3630/146gr

3630/146gr

v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
check style
card

w3620/108gr

933
casual
only

C&A Technical file

1 layer gramsm2

2 layer gramsm2

nd

Collar band
Grams-m2

Placket
grams-m2

Cuff gramsm2

internal

-Xpiece
yes/no
yes

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

Same as 1
layer collar

st

926

Cut away Canda

internal

no

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3630/146gr

Same as 1
layer collar

st

923

474

Kent Westbury II

internal

yes

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3640/170gr
Try out

Same as 1
layer collar

st

925

475

Cut away Westbury

internal

no

3630/146gr

Fiyi/165gr or
3640/170gr

3640/170gr
Try out

Same as 1
layer collar

st

925

476

Button down
Westbury

no

yes

3610/80gr

w3620/108gr

3640/170gr
Try out

v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams
v.3205
W3000
65 grams

st

925

NR

Name

Bone yes/no

472

France

473

st

Same as 1
layer collar

Class Nr.