BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY

Ethiopian Institute of Textiles and Fashion

Technology(EITEX)

SEMINAR ON 3D KNITTING
PREPARED BY: SELAMU TEMESGEN
SUBMITTED TO : Dr.S.Kathirrvelu (Professor Textile Tech.

Contents
Introduction
Classification of 3D knitted fabrics
Manufacturing method for 3d textiles
Properties of weft and warp knitted 3D fabrics
Types of machines used for 3D weft and warp
knitting
Application of 3D fabrics
Principles to obtain 3d knitted fabrics

3D-Textiles
1.Introduction
Development of three-dimensional knitted
fabrics dates from the 19thcentury
The concept of three-dimensional of the textile
materials is not related to the intrinsic value of
dimensions found on the three axes (x, y, z), but to
the relationship between them.
This relation characterises the importance of the
dimensions in the geometry of the material.
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 A three-dimensional fabric, regardless of the

process used, is a continuous ensemble, with fully
integrated fibre, characterised by multiaxial spatial
orientation
Creating a three-dimensional effect on knits is based
on the following techniques:
I. Insertion of additional yarns along multiple
directions;
II. Knitting and linking independent layers in
different ways;
III. Spatial shaping.
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2. Classification of 3D knitted fabrics

3.3D Textiles - Manufacturing

Methods
Manufacturing methods:
Braiding
Weft knitting
Warp knitting
Weaving
Stitched assemblies

Manufacturing Methods Weft

Knitting
Basic technique:
Forming a loop through previously formed such
loops.
One yarn makes one row of the fabric.

General properties:
The specific shape of the individual loops results in an elastic
material
Fabric thickness is low 3D geometry
Patterning allows manufacturing of tailor-made
shapes

Fabric Formation Elements Weft

Knitting

Individually controlled needles

Consecutive knitting on every next needle
One thread per row
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4. Machines used Weft

Knitting
Two kinds of machines:
Flat bed
Possibility to make tubular products, shells, thickness
reinforced (spacer knits) and some complex structures
as a combination of these
Patterning of shape and loop architecture
Circular
Tubular and spacer tubular fabrics
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5.Application Scope Weft Knitting

Weft Knitting:
Somewhat limited 3D application due
to the relatively low thickness of the
material
Biomedical
Composites (formable matrix)
Reinforcement (Y-pipe, T-Pipe)
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Manufacturing Methods Warp

Knitting
Basic technique:
Fabric formed by interconnecting loops.
Machine used-Double needle bar raschel is commonly used
A set of individual yarns for every needle.
General properties:
Less elastic fabrics
Products with considerable thickness 3D structures
Patterning allows repeated structures to be manufactured
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Fabric Formation Elements Warp

Knitting

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Application Scope Warp

Knitting
Warp Knitting:
Composite materials
Aerospace industry composite matrix
Civil engineering concrete reinforcement, acoustic
insulation
Military - ballistic protection
Biomedical vascular stents
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5.Principles for Obtaining ThreeDimensional Knitted Fabrics

To produce three-dimensional fabrics, the knitted material can be
formed by the technique called spatial fashioning technique (also
known as flechage).
Three-dimensional structures can be created also
by knitting stitches and loops combined with the
lateral movement of the needle bed.
By increasing or decreasing the number of working
needles it is possible to create three dimensional
knitted items on intarsia knits.
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Conti
The methods of making three-dimensional items on
flat knitting machines are:
1. Incomplete knitted rows technique (spatial
fashioning);
2. The use of patterns with 3D effects egg. Knitting
tuck stitches patterns combined with racking;
3. Knitting separate fabrics connected in between
sandwich/spacer fabrics;
4. Integral knitting /wholegarment.
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Conti
1. Incomplete Rows Knitting Technique
Incomplete rows knitting technique is a
technique used by designers of knits to create
three-dimensional knitted items or tubular
knits

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2.Use of Patterned Structures with 3D Effects

The most known example is the so called egg nest fabric, created by
Shima Seiki.
The pattern is based on cardigan evolutions combined
with successive racking in opposite directions.
Another example is a jersey fabric with a zone with miss stitches while the carriers produce
stitches on the opposite bed.
When the missing stitches are discharges, the stitches
produced on the opposite bed are transferred to the
working bed.
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3. Sandwich Fabrics

A knitted layered item (sandwich) is a 3D structure,

composed from two outer layers knitted together
independent, connected by byarns or other knitted
layers, as shown below

Sandwich fabrics with connection through knitted layers present a large

range of development possibilities :
increase in the fabric thickness based on the length of the connection
layers;
modification of the geometry of external fabrics due to the use of
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connecting layers with different length;

4. Integral Knitting Technique

Integral knitting technique is an improved stage in the development of
technologies for flat knitting machines .
So far it is the most advanced knitting technology through
which a garment is completely assembled on a knitting
machine without the need of sewing. Seamless knitting
technology is a method that cuts off waste and reduces
costs.
The seamless garment is very comfortable and resistant
to wear.

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THE END
THANKS

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