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Two Canoes and a Crazy Idea

by Dr. Joe
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fiberglass a Wooden
Deck
fiberglasssite.com

How to fiberglass A plywood

deck Free link to a Step by
Step Video !

About This Instructable

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74,559 views
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Dr. Joe
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More by Dr. Joe

The idea began with a book I never read called The Six Hour Canoe. The idea
of building a canoe in a short period of time seemed to open up the possibility
of building the boat in a foreign country with local materials and leaving the
boat when the vacation was over. I needed advice and went online to find a
country, a boat to build and the skills and tools to create this project. I was
overwhelmed by the information and support.
There were some skeptics, my friend Pete said, Obtaining materials in a
foreign land on a set time..I would suggest not bringing a watch but, instead, a
calendar.
Matt from Jem Watercraft suggested I build a prototype and, beat the hell out
of it, to see if it would be up to my expectations. Then he offered to draft any
designs I wanted for this crazy idea. I accepted his offer and had the plans

Tags: Canoe Stitch and Glue Chile

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19/32" by 11 in your head. (Stubborn Americans is all I can say.)

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Step 1: Lofting and cutting

Driftwood Canoe
Paddle Connect With
the Past.
by Dr. Joe

See More

I cut all the panels with a hand saw just in case I would not have power tools.
This was not as hard as I expected. Just make sure you flex the plywood so as
not to pinch the blade. The pull saw worked great and it did not raise near as
much dust or make as much noise.

Step 2: Butt Joints and testing

I tried 4 brands of epoxy and three fillers plus drywall tape instead of fiberglass
cloth. Wood flour and dry wall tape with no scarf or butt blocks. I used plastic
film to stop the epoxy sticking to the table and boards. Instead of using a scarf
joint or butt blocks one suggestion was three layers of glass cloth on both
sides. This was brilliant it was quick and stronger than the wood.

Step 3: Tape Stitch and Glue

Duct tape was suggested as a method of holding the panels together. That
was one idea I had to reject. Copper wires or cable ties worked much better.
The putty was used to tack the panels into place between the wires and tape.

Step 4: Tricks we discovered.

Note the self stick drywall tape. When it would not stay put I used a strip of
plastic. The plastic would stick to the epoxy and usually had enough adhesion

to hold the errant tape down. Detail of capping the raw edges of the plywood.

Step 5: Bow Seat

This shows how the bow seat was latched. Note foam rubber and bolts that go
inside the holes to attach the rear of the seat. Wide shot of the bow seat

Step 6: Dry box

Bungee cords were used to latch the rear hatch. The rear hatch makes for a
great dry box. The rear hatch cover with bungee cords make a great spot to
store the painter. The knot in the bungee cords are snapped in place under the
notched boards.

Step 7: Testing if Wood Floats.

Testing the prototype for final stability. This took a few tries with the camera on
a piling and the self timer.
Heeling position. The boat was more stable than my Grumman, Mad River or
Coleman canoes full of water. Even full of water this floats.

Step 8: Canoe 2 in Chile Begins.

Billy Gerhard Ernst Elizalde from Chile (Billy from Chile) offered the use of his
shed and tools for constructing the boat. He had built several wooden boats
and lives a few miles from the Bio Bio River in Southern Chile. My son Andrew
at the home of Billy from Chile. Setting the seats and bulkheads. This is not the
way the prototype was built. In the second image I am screwing the inwales
down.

Step 9:

I used cable ties instead of wire. They were much easier to remove.
This `was a better way to use the duct tape, to prevent putty leaks when
turned over. I brought all the hand tools to build this boat in a small
briefcase. When talking to Billy from Chile I did not know what to expect
when he offered the use of his boat building shed. I was shocked at his
generosity in the use of his precious power tools. In the background look at
one of the boats he built.

Step 10: Finishing the hull

Andrew cleaning up the putty after removing the tape. Smoothing the seams
before the final taping. Slopping on the epoxy over the fiberglass seams.

Step 11: Success

Finished hull on Largo Grande in Concepcion Chile. I had 40 years of canoe

prejudice about what hull design would be adequate. I wanted a rounded chine
with some rocker and a slight V. I found plywood was manufactured in Chile
and calculated two sheets would create a 156 hull (4.7 meters). That would
be fine for 2 people and gear.

Step 12: Designed around the seats

When running white water I usually move the bow paddler behind the bow seat
to a kneeling position to keep the bow from diving into standing waves and
lower the center of gravity. I began with the seats in this position closer to the
center of the boat and low in the hull. This allows for fore and aft bulkheads
that serve as frames to simplify the construction process and provide storage.
A special thanks to Matt from Jem Watercaft (jemwatercraft.com) for drafting
the plans for any boat of my design. We exchanged 24 emails on how high the
bow what was the rocker where are the bulkheads and seats.

Step 13: The Project as it was Planned.

The plan was day one to cut the plywood panels, coat them with epoxy then
build the seats. Day two the panels would be butt spliced with drywall tape and
then epoxy resin and wood flour was mixed to make putty. Scarf joints would
be made for the long boards on the gunwale and glued with putty. Day three
the fore bulkhead and seats would be used as construction frames as the
panels were attached with temporary screws and shaped with cable ties and
copper wires. The outside seams would be covered with duct tape epoxy putty
would be spread inside the hull between the cable ties. Day four ties and
screws would be removed and the uneven hull seams shaped on the outside.
Drywall tape would be applied to both the inside and outside of all seams and
a coat of epoxy would be brushed on the tape and very dry epoxy putty would
be squeegeed into the tape on both the inside and outside of the hull. Day five
touch up the holes and coat the hull with one more coat of epoxy. That was
the plan which went quite well except for a few problems.
One disaster occurred while using epoxy that was mixed by weight. I had read
you could spread a nice even bead of putty by putting it in a Ziplock bag then
cutting off the corner to squeeze out a bead like a pastry chef. The epoxy was
curing too fast so, I figured a little less hardener would give me a little more
time to get it spread into the proper place. I had built a scale to measure the 2
to 1 weight ratio. My crude scale was a board balanced on a sharpened piece
of wood with the resin twice as far as the hardener from the fulcrum. This was
working fine until I decided I needed more time and changed the ratio but
instead of putting the hardener closer to the fulcrum I adjusted the resin. The
putty looked good as I mixed the wood flour into peanut butter consistency then
filled my baggie with goop. As I began to squeeze the baggie the putty began
to get warm in my hand this quickly escalated to very warm then to hot. When I
could not stand the heat I threw the baggie away and smoke began to billow
out of the trash can while I worried about setting the rags sawdust and shop on
fire.
I tested the online advice about glues, tools fillers joints and fasteners on my

prototype. I tried 4 different brands of epoxy resin. I tested wood flour, fumed
silica, white all purpose flour and sawdust for fillers. I tried fiberglass, and
drywall tape for joint strength. I experimented with copper wires cable ties and
dry wall screws for positioning the panels. I tried various tools and ultimately
took a minimum of tools: my smallest surform two card scrapers (used instead
of sandpaper on green epoxy) my contour gage, a pull saw and metric tape
measure. I also packed a handful of screws and some ringed bronze boat
nails.

Step 14: Lessons Learned

What did we learn? Joe and Andrew from Oregon, with drafting help of Matt
from North Carolina and logistic support by Billy from Chile and advice from
paddlers across the world can build a boat in a foreign country in 72 hours.
Sea snails, barnacles, mussels and blood sausage taste better than they
sound. You can build a butt joint in plywood with drywall tape and epoxy putty
that is stronger than the wood. When crawling about the floor of the shop with
epoxy on your 12 panels make sure the dogs dont come in to play with you.
There are a lot of wonderful people out there messing about in boats and their
love of boats crosses all the cultural barriers.

We have a be nice comment policy.

Please be positive and constructive.

titchtheclown

I Made it!

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22 hours ago

Reply

Congratulations on the beautiful build.

I do have to counsel against changing the mix ratio on Epoxy. The
resin and hardener are meant to be mixed at the recommended ratio.
Altering the ratio will result in a lower strength cure and, as you
discovered, can lead to rapid overheating, or no curing at all.
Of slightly less concern is that the weight ratio is slightly different to the
volume ratio. My epoxy has a 2 to1, or 1 to 0.5 resin to hardener ratio
by volume but a 1 to 0.44 ratio when mixed by weight. In practice this
difference is not that important.
Epoxy is also temperature sensitive so reducing the temperature (eg
by doing your epoxying early in the morning, or late at night) will
extend the cure time. I put my leftover epoxy in the freezer and it
keeps for a few weeks. The epoxy I use can be purchased with a range
of different hardeners, from low temperature cure to tropical cure.

Dr. Joe (author)

titchtheclown

29 minutes ago

Thank you for the tips. I have learned the lesson from the
school of hard knocks. Wish I had talked to you first. I like the
idea of putting it in the freezer. How do you cover it to keep

Reply

from contaminating the food? How do you warm it up to use it?

rnorton2

33 minutes ago

Reply

4 hours ago

Reply

wow!! bold and beautiful, well done, where are the plans?

estructor

What a great project, what a great story. Defying limitations,

improvising, trialling methods & materials, proving the possibilities in
order to do a favorite pastime far from home. Agree with reader
borogoves that purposeful travel makes for a much richer experience.
(Of course!, or, "si-pu!", they would say in Chile, short for "por su
puesto.") I often get restless travelling, if I haven't brought my bicycle,
(which is a great leveler) I'll go to the docks, visit hardware stores
(herramientas) or look for some other way, to observe "la vie
quotidienne." Thanks for this instructable!
I've built a few small boats myself, and reading your account was
better than candy!
My skin kayak:
http://werkinprogrs.blogspot.com/2011/02/blog-post...
Essay on Wood & water:
http://werkinprogrs.blogspot.com/2013/01/wood-and-...

Dr. Joe (author)

estructor

34 minutes ago

Reply

I enjoyed your blog so much I want to build a skin on frame hull

now. What thickness of fabric and what was the completed
weight of your kyak?

billbillt

3 hours ago

Reply

Great!.....Thanks for doing this with hand tools instead of expensive

power tools.... This way EVERYBODY can build this..

Dr. Joe (author)

billbillt

39 minutes ago

Reply

I love the hand tools. You don't have to wear the protective
gear and it really does not take that much longer and some
projects.

steveofthenw

2 hours ago

Awesome build. Wonder how much of a hassle it'd be to incorporate a

Reply

transom into the stern in case you ran across a cheap outboard motor?

Dr. Joe (author)

steveofthenw

46 minutes ago

Reply

Putting a transom would be super easy. Just chop off the pointy
end and put a board.

GardenFork

1 hour ago

Reply

Thanks for posting this, enjoyed your project. I've built some simple
plywood boats. May I ask a few beginner questions?
When do you remove the cable ties?
Is the drywall mesh tape a substitute for fiberglass cloth, and do you
remove it at some point?
Epoxy putty, is this the thicker version of the fiberglass epoxy or is this
a certain brand-type of epoxy?
thanks for you time! eric.

Dr. Joe (author)

GardenFork

47 minutes ago

Reply

Thank you for looking at my story. I remove the cable ties the
next day, The key is when the glue holds the panels together. If
you used 5 minute epoxy you could do it much sooner.
The drywall tape was a substitute for the fiberglass cloth. It is a
looser weave but you can always put more layers. It is not
removed. If you use duct tape clear packing tape or masking
tape to keep the putty from leaking you need to remove it much
sooner. Before the resin has bound too well to the tape and
does not drip. That can be as soon as 30 minutes.
Epoxy putty is home made by adding a filler. You can purchase
microballons or wood flower or you can use fine sawdust or
even baking flour. You mix this into the epoxy until it is the
consistency of peanut butter.
Build something awsome!

grapenut

2 hours ago

Reply

2 hours ago

Reply

Very well done!!!

wlahti

Regarding metric: Yeah - I'm still waiting for the US to join the 19th
century.

victorvector

4 hours ago

Reply

Very cool project !

Thank you for posting this .
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?182813-Shantyboatfor-two

bchester

5 hours ago

Reply

6 hours ago

Reply

8 hours ago

Reply

This is Excellent!!

Leningrad_Cowboy

Great story. Excellent project. Thanks.

bevin.chu

Making the boat "unsinkable" was a great idea.

I realize that large commercial vessels cannot always be made
unsinkable for practical reasons.
But a pleasure craft such as canoe, row boat, sailboat, or power boat
ought to be made unsinkable for safety's sake.

jim.roach.106

9 hours ago

Reply

Very clever work with the duct tape, plastic ties, epoxy and all.
Altogether a very nice looking job as well. John Montague and Richard
Butz of BMC, Buffalo wrote "the book" and we have several of these
types of boats being built by after school programs. I have not met him
but someone at the center states there is a fellow who makes his own
plywood for these. Absolutely correct about ratio on epoxy and
temperature, turning up the heat in the center can cause bubbling.

20 hours ago

Reply

yesterday

Reply

You are the best

BG_instructs

i hate it when such projects seem so deaqd easy, makes me wonna

try it too, what am i going to do with a boat?..:-)
Incredible project, wonder how thick is the plywood?

Dr. Joe (author)

BG_instructs

yesterday

Reply

The first canoe I built my son was more interested in video

games. I asked him to come hold a board for me. As I planed
for a few minutes I complained my arms were tired so he could
plane. As those long thin curls of aromatic cedar peeled off that
plank he was hooked. We went on to build 4 boats together. He
is now the head mechanic at an REI store. I suggest you enjoy
the building and exploring new places.
The plywood was 4 mm but you can use any thickness
depending how much weight you are willing to carry.

BG_instructs Dr. Joe

yesterday

Reply

Hi Dr Joe,
great story, only 4mm, ok, now i understand you are able to
bend it like that.
Never had a hole in it? 4 mm seems so thin.

Dr. Joe (author)

BG_instructs

23 hours ago

Reply

While running white water on the Umpqua River. I hit a rock

that was just below the surface. The sound was heart braking
of crunching wood. I was certain my trip was over and I would
have to hike out. I kept waiting for the rush of water to come up
and nothing happened. I took a second look and could not see
any damage under my kneeling pad. I continued to the take out
some miles later and when I turned the canoe over there was a
2 inch scrape. I put on a bit of epoxy and have continued using
it.

mikeasaurus

yesterday

Reply

yesterday

Reply

This was a great story, thanks for sharing your build!

jim.neill.54

Love it! When you come to NC - you think you could be talked into
gilding me through the steps?

Dr. Joe (author)

Thank you for all the nice comments.I am most humbled.

2 days ago

Reply

lcrookston

2 days ago

Reply

This is awesome. Using drywall tape was a very smart move, as well
as the move to wire ties. I just got back from Belize, and think this is so
inspiring, I wish I had read it before I left.
I also really like your hull form. I am a naval architect and love to build
things, someday, one of those things needs to be a watercraft.

forerunneruk

2 days ago

Reply

I really like this. Particularly the testing different methods, and learning
from mistakes.
I also like your shift from imperial to metric, and your positive review of
it. Generally though metric uses mm as standard not cm (divide by 10).
I like your lessons learned, good engineering practice.

Ultra-Indigo

2 days ago

Reply

this is a fantastic ibble, like you just lived a diy adventure dream.

rimar2000

2 days ago

Reply

2 days ago

Reply

2 days ago

Reply

Great work, congratulations.

live4ktm

Awesome ! This was a fun read. Thank you.

The Awesome Inventor

Great plans! Hoping to build a small rowboat that is kind of like this but
with a small hit n miss engine to power a propeller. One again, GREAT
work!

borogoves

3 days ago

Reply

I love the idea of making something while traveling--definitely a good

way to travel purposefully. You meet more interesting people when
you have a goal that isn't just eating and taking pictures.

adker27

3 days ago

Awesome project, thanks for sharing. It totally makes me want to pull

the trigger and build one, (something I've wanted to do for years).

Reply

I just have a couple of questions. 1 Roughly how much does it weigh?

2 Any chance you could add a downloadable file with your plans?
Thanks, and again awesome job.

Dr. Joe (author)

adker27

3 days ago

Reply

Total weight with the hatch cover is 56 pounds. You would

have to talk to Matt at Jem Watercraft to use the plans as he
drafted them for me. He has since put up some new canoe /
kayak plans that look great.
http://www.jemwatercraft.com/proddetail.php?
prod=LakeCruiser15-32

dr_peru

3 days ago

Reply

Very nice! I like how you improved the design over the process.
How much money does such a boat costs (rough estimate is enough)

Dr. Joe (author)

3 days ago

dr_peru

Reply

Thank you for looking at my post. This cost about $200. The
most expensive component is the epoxy resin. It takes about a
gallon. You could reduce the cost using polyester resin but it
would not be as strong.

We have a be nice comment policy.

Please be positive and constructive.

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